# used track cleaning



## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

some of these lots of track you see on ebay look heavily oxidized.. can these be brought back from the dead or should I stay away? also , ive read about vinegar etc etc. can one ise products like BRASSO etc etc to bring out the track again? it will be used indoors once clean
thanks


----------



## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

domer94
I got a deal from our club of over 200' of brass track that was black from setting in a members yard for quite some time.
I tried several things but did not like the out come.
So I had some tarnex from cleaning copper and thought why not.
I was very impressed the brass looked new.
I bought about a gal. of it and poured it in to a flat plastic tub about 1/2" deep.
Laid it in ties up for about 60 seconds and rinsed them off in clean water.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim's answer sounds fine, but if you don't have a lot of track a green scotch brite pad and a wire brush will work too. All that has to be cleaned is the top of the rail and the sides where the track joiners go over the rail. The all the sides don't need cleaning, it will just blacken again and it doesn't effect the electrical properties. The wire brush will clean the ends where you will need good electrical contact and the pad does an excellent job on the top.

If you go with the chemical method remove any switch motors and clean by hand any other pieces of track that have electrical connections like a 1015U.

Chuck


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I want to paint my track (someday) to make it more realistic. 








I don't see yellow, nor do I see my too clean Stainless Steel. I do see dark variety. This is in the unused state, after some use the tops and upper inside edge of the rail head will be shiny silvery steel color. 
I'd dip the ends; just what the joiner touches with the chemical cleaner and rinse before assembling the track. (Depending on your control system, you might want to solder jumpers across the gap, if so clean for those too). After assembled I'd clean from above as Chuck suggested.
John


----------



## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Get a 3M green cleaning pad and go over the top.

Don


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Cleaning the rail is really no problem. What can be a problem is if the ties are crumbling from UV exposure. I have some that are now like Hydrox cookies because of poor UV application/materials used in their construction. Other ties of the same age are fine, though faded.


----------



## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

wow... jims results are outstanding. this opens up a whole new door! thanks


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I just got a large Batch of flex ties from Reindeer Pass to fix the Aristo ties that have rotted from the Arizona Sun. If you are going to clean where the Joiners go then I would use a small wire wheel on a Dremel.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

As several responders, Todd and John, have mentioned, UV (aka high amount of sun exposure) can and will deteriorate some manufacturers ties. I may have missed, but where do you live? Todd is in Southern California and John is near the northern edge of the Phoenix area. Shade is as a premium for those layouts.

I have track that has been outside for 20+ years in Virginia, some of it was out in Lakewood, Colorado (elevation 6000'). The ties are fine. BUT, both layouts had and have a lot of shade. 

There was a time when AristoCraft came with ties without enough UV inhibitors. That track crumbled. They replaced the ties, but they as a company no longer exist. 

I have never had a "tie" problem with LGB, or the Aristo track I am using. 

The sun on your layout and previous track's layout may have a potential problem. 

It all depends on who made your track and where it came from, sun, shade, or mixed.

And, lastly where will your layout be built (Climate, elevation, and solar exposure).

Chuck

PS The rail is usually the most expensive part of the purchase. If you can get a good deal, 
go for it and if the ties are or become suspect there are dealers here on MLS who can sell you tie strips.

You will still be money ahead over buying new track.

See JJ's previous post.


----------



## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

You can also use household vinegar. Lay the track in the same flat container and wait two days, no longer. I have used this method and works well and is cheaper.


----------



## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Do not use a steel wire brush on trains. Motors have magnets and any steel will find its way to the motors. Kitchen cleaning pads are great and for track on the ground a swiffer type of pole is very useful.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I use a wire brush on a Dremel. Dremel makes both steel and stainless steel wire brushes, buy the SS ones, not magnetic, no rust and the SS ones last longer, making the extra cost worth it.

Greg


----------



## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

Three words: Track Cleaning Loco 

Not my favorite loco for looks, but boy is that thing worth every penny I paid (of course, I did get it used)

I accidentally left some track out for 18 months in a location that gets wet every day (it was behind the shed--sort of in a "swamp") and when I found it I installed it on a siding. Two or three passes with the TCL and the top of the rail was shiny again. No manual cleaning needed. 

I'm with John: I don't want the edges of the track shiny.


----------

