# First box car - Aristo or USATrains?



## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

I've got $100. 1/29 Aristo box cars are cheaper (from Reindeerpass) by about $20.


But is USA better? No real difference? How about Reindeerpass? Good place? I like their web site.


I am super new to this, so a box car and 2 feet of track will be my first large scale venture (don't laugh, $100 is all I can spare at the moment) 


Just wondering.


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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

Just as a note on Freight Car Info in G Gauge........ 

I like steel wheels a whole lot better than plastic car wheels....... 

A steel wheel swap by customer is worth $20.... That's 4 axles.... to buy..... 

Ask IF your box car comes with steel wheels...!!?? 

Couplers can be Hook & Loop or Knuckle...... Not all G knuckles are exactly the same shape & height...... 

Just some G Gauge pitfalls IF you mix manufacturers..... 

Dennis M from GBay, WI 

PS: After Box Cars..... I like Tank Cars...... 

Reindeer Pass is a Very Good place to ask wheel Questions...... RLD hobbies is top O the line in HELP too....


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Depends on the level of detail that you want. I personally think USA has better detail then Aristo. Before you buy ask your self a couple of questions. 1. What are you modeling? 2. Does this car fit into your modeling era/time frame? 

Those are my first thoughts. $100 is a good start you don't have to break the bank to get into the hobby. Most of my equipment has come as gifts from family members over the years... 

Craig


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

if money is a consideration, go for the cheaper one, and spend the difference on more track. 

i got a LGB starter set in 1970 or so. since then i bought cheap, used and on occasions. 
just go ahead. buy when you can, build yourself, what you can - and enjoy it.


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

You might want to check here first: 

http://www.aristocraft.com/40ft-Dou..._c_45.html 


http://www.aristocraft.com/40ft-Steel-Boxcar_c_47.html

Robert


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Once you add metal wheels to Aristo, there is very little cost difference. 

I prefer the USAT cars, higher level of detail. Scale wise both are good. 

I tend to have better tracking of the unsprung USAT trucks than the sprung Aristo one (go figure)... 

The USAT cars tend to be a bit heavier, which seems to translates to running better. 

The blackened wheels on the USAT look better to me than the shiny plating on the Aristo. 

Regards, Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

ya know , for a $100 maybe some one out there has a couple of types of used cars for sale. he can buy them and see for himself. 

just a thought. 
I agree with Greg ,USA is nicely detailed. newer cars that is 

FYI
at our Sept open house there is lots of great deals on ,"pre-enjoyed" trains


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

So for max to scale, and detail, as I start this, 
taking a loss on the track as it were since I'm pretending its standard gauge, and I want to run a dash nine or SD70, 
usa trains box car best model 
on track and ties from 
http://switchcrafters.com/ 
is as close to scale as I am going to get for 1/29 ? 
I'm thinking that it is...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

On the box cars, I gave my preference... on a 2 bay hopper, the Aristo is great... on the stock cars, I prefer the AML... it's kind of on a case by case basis. 

Switchcrafters makes nice stuff. Yes, between Aristo, USAT and AML, you have a very nice selection in 1:29, all holding very true to scale. 

Regards, Greg


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

I think Greg has an excellent point. It's fine to be loyal to one brand, but sometimes it's better to pick and choose what's "best" for you and your tastes. And realistically, buying used is definitely an option in the Large Scale world. Since our trains are so expensive, most people tend to take excellent care of them, and is an adult hobby. 

Robert


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

It has been a while since I have purchased an AristoCraft car. Once USAt started supplying metal wheels with their cars and a Kadee coupler pad my purchases have been USAt. It has been a while since I have bought a car and things may have changed. For me, metal wheels make a big difference in performance and I have body mounted couplers on all my 1:29 cars.

If the cars aren't ready for body mounted couplers, some surgery or shims may be needed.


Chuck


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Are you going to add Kadees. Many USA cars have a pad to mount an 830.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Another *?* Who is going to be using these trains? If a younger person then go with Aristo, if not then USA.
By the time you add metal wheels the price difference is very little.
As far as Reindeer Pass, Mike and Renee can't be beat! I ordered a lot of trains from them and service is
A+. 
My 2 cents.

Don


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 04 Apr 2012 05:24 PM 
Once you add metal wheels to Aristo, there is very little cost difference. 



ehem...

Greg, he is going to buy one boxcar and a little track now.
very probably that means, that for some time to come the boxcar will be sitting on some shelf, or be part of a diorama.
so i doubt, that he will run his boxcar so much, that any possible difference between plastic and metal wheels will be important to him in the nearer future.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Martan, 

Since you're going to model later model diesel railroading in 1/29 be cognizant of the cars you’re looking to purchase fit the scale and era. The offerings from both USAT and Aristocraft include 1/24 and 1/29 scale offerings. Additionally there is other equipment by AML, AMS, Bachman, LGB, MTH, MDC, Piko and more. The car market is widely saturated with 1:20, 1:22, 1:24, 1/29, 1/32 or Gauge 1 offerings that run the “G” scale gamut… You already noted the track conundrum. 

If it were me I’d buy whatever suited my fancy initially until such time I had a model of each manufactures car that suited my era, at this time I could evaluate my needs and likes with the CAR in hand so to speak. 

Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

you can clear your throat all you want... wasting the money on useless plastic wheels now or later is my take. 

If you have little money, the "long term view" is even more important... 

Greg


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Excuse me but am I missing something here? Martan are you just getting into the hobby or do you have some other pieces like a starter set and am looking for advice on either a USA or Aristo boxcar? I like USATrains due to their many roadnames both real and made up. The boxcars are beefy and have nice detail. I have about 8 USAT to 0ne Aristo boxcar. Just starting out I wouldn't worry about metal wheels. When you get running they do add a nice clickety clack and they do track better than plastic and they lower the center of gravity of the car to help keep it on the track better. If metal wheels come with the car BONUS but if not you cna always replace down the line. What gets me is upgrading wheels can cost as much as the car. 
Just starting out you won't get very far with a boxcar and 2 pieces of track. Maybe someone on the forum here can offer you a starter set or point you in the right direction so you can get something running with a circle of track for $100. Most of us have started with a starter set. I have a really nice layout and a good amount of equipment and about 90% of it is preowned. You can start small for little money and grow from there but I would recommend getting a setup so you can actually run. 
Happy RRing 
Todd


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

Thanks for the advice. Yes, to clarify, this will be 'on a shelf' for the most part as I scratch build a few structures and model some vehicles. The track is not really that important at the moment but I would like to get off to a nice start on the rolling stock.


I'll have more money later, I was 'downsized' about two weeks ago and am in resume mode for now, once I get a new gig, I'll be able to devote more to this.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You will definitely enjoy the USAT or AML box cars more if they are on display, one glaring "ugly" on the Aristo is the oversized and non prototype design, it's a huge "snap" catch, rather than a faithful representation of the prototype arms. 

It's pretty obvious when you look at the doors on the box cars. 

Regards, Greg


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Martan, I will throw in two ideas from my experience. If you are going to run dash 9's (which I do) and sd70's I have one of those haven't ever run it yet on my outdoor layout yet! I would strongly suggest you look at at least a 10ft diameter curves, at minimum, and I would suggest even bigger for those engines. I have always professed to never go smaller than 10ft. diameter curves, but wish now I would have went with way bigger. The Dash 9's work ok on 10ft. but bigger is better with that engine, and anything on the order of that size Mallet's etc. 

On the freight cars, I have gone with Bachmann D&RG boxcars and if they don't have metal wheels, I think they come that way, I have used Bachmann's metal wheels for Large Scale on them and I have been very satisfied. You can usually pick up a Bachmann boxcar if you watch Ebay for around $30+ some shipping, so if you are limited on funds, you can buy 2-3 Bachmann ones for the price of one USA or Aristo. I have 3 of the 50t boxcars from Aristo, and I don't like them, I will probably eventually sell them off down the road. Just my 2 cents in the mix. Take a look at my videos and you will see dash 9's running on my layout on you tube. www.youtube/7485jerry take a look and you will see that when the Aristo dash comes to the curves its tight. I also run Mallet's, k-27 by Accucraft, and USA pa/pb and streamliners which are also tight on the curves. They run ok, but now wish I would have went with 20+ curves. Regal



And most importantly remember it's yer railroad, do what you want, and what looks good to you!! Advice is good, but sometimes there are what we call "rivet counters" LOL and dey would have you believe everything should be prototypical!! I say bah humbug to doz people I runs what I like and the way I likes to run em. 


link to my you tube didn't come out so here tiz!! YouTube - 7485jerry's Channel


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## Jethro J. (Apr 4, 2012)

I like USATs and AML, They seem to be the best bang for the buck. 


Jethro


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Martan on 05 Apr 2012 08:35 AM 
Thanks for the advice. Yes, to clarify, this will be 'on a shelf' for the most part as I scratch build a few structures and model some vehicles. The track is not really that important at the moment but I would like to get off to a nice start on the rolling stock.


I'll have more money later, I was 'downsized' about two weeks ago and am in resume mode for now, once I get a new gig, I'll be able to devote more to this.

Spend some money on some code 215 rail and make your self a nice display stand. Hand lay a 2-3' section on a piece of wood, add some ballast, etc and then when you display your car it will look nicer than sitting on a single piece of track. If your going to display the car I would vote for USA or AML as others have mentioned. 


Craig


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

go visit some RRs and see what you like. Pick out the things you like and adapt. 
Over the years I set a standard that worked for me and most who come visit.


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have a mixture. Started with Aristo, and added some USA and even LGB Coke cars. I model the steam to diesel transition era. Had to add metal wheels and am converting to Kadees. Aristo cars are "tough" since they do not have as much fine detail as USA. I originally had to bring my trains inside when not running so they were the ideal choice. By the way, the Aristo brake detail is backwards due to the way the cars are assembled in China. If you are keeping your trains on a shelf for dispaly, then go USA.


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

Great advice! Thanks. The USA boxcar is on it's way. I just got a 2' track section for now, just to have something to put it on.

It's not going to stay on the shelf forever, I'm not really looking to do a detailed shelf display, I just need a visual point as I plan things. In all honesty, I live far from any hobby shops that carry 'G' scale, so in fact, I've never even seen a G scale anything in real life. Yes, sad but true. I've done N scale and HO layouts before, but this time I want to do big, and do it 'right'. That would mean, yes, hand laid rail, I wouldn't call myself a 'rivet counter' but I do want it to look as scale as I can.


As far as the large curves for the modern locos, great advice, I will remember that. I have a rather big yard to work with, over 3 acres zoned rural so I was planning on starting with a reason for the trains, ie 'a raw material', coal, lumber, etc, and then build a small 'town' for each.Then have a mainline that connects all of these. Or so. That's the rough idea for now. I figured that would let me do it in easily managed stages. More or less.


I'm also an electronics and software guy so naturally I want to computer control everything one day, ha.

A CNC machine is also in the plan, that will let me do custom buildings and such with ease. Ease is a relative term I suppose, but it sounds like fun.


Well, big plans, first I need a JOB. Interview next week. Wish me luck


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Martan on 06 Apr 2012 10:51 AM 
Great advice! Thanks. The USA boxcar is on it's way. I just got a 2' track section for now, just to have something to put it on.

It's not going to stay on the shelf forever, I'm not really looking to do a detailed shelf display, I just need a visual point as I plan things. In all honesty, I live far from any hobby shops that carry 'G' scale, so in fact, I've never even seen a G scale anything in real life. Yes, sad but true. I've done N scale and HO layouts before, but this time I want to do big, and do it 'right'. That would mean, yes, hand laid rail, I wouldn't call myself a 'rivet counter' but I do want it to look as scale as I can.






Your not crazy for wanting to handlay your track. I enjoy handlaying my track. If you really want to do 1/29 'right' then I should convince you to move beyond 45mm gauge...
www.mylargescale.com/Community/Foru...122415/afv/topic/afpgj/11/Default.aspx#248923
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi.../123060/afv/topic/afpgj/7/Default.aspx#253738
What kind of car did you end up ordering? A 40' or 50' box? 


Craig


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

My plan was to go with this fellow for the long run, and I was going to do 250, I read somewhere that was more prototypical in terms of pounds per rail? 
http://www.switchcrafters.com/index.html I love this web site. Easy to browse. 

I'm in VA, not far from WV border, I would like to model coal and timber, I'm particularly attracted to the New River Gorge area. 

I got this one, I suppose it's old in the land of Dash9s and SD70s but that's ok. N&W 
http://www.usatrains.com/r19216c.html 

I want a modern mainline back into the hollows of the Appalachian towns frozen in time? 
Or something like that. 

I am so NS, they have a line a mile from my house, I hear them three times in the morning.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Code .215 is close to 110lb rail in 1/29. I think .250 is around 132lb rail which is pretty heavy stuff, but some railroads do have it on the mainline. I'm using .215 and don't have a problem with the over scale flanges. 

Craig


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