# Table saw safety questions



## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I know it's probably better to just have 1 question rather than 4 or 5 b/c they won't all get answered or might be too much for folks to read, but I'll see how this works.

I've got an older Delta Shopmaster (about 2002) that comes with a blade insert that leaves a gap of about 3/4 inches around the blade. I've checked online and can't find any zero-clearance ones (well near zero). I feel uncomfortable cutting wood with that much clearance around the blade and already had wood sucked into the hole and explode and other nasty surprises.

The newer Shopmaster ones I saw have oval ends but mine is rectangular in shape.

I made 3 zero clearance myself but they rise slightly above the table b/c of the design of the insert. This in itself poses safety problems.


Second issue. It would be nice if the plate includes a splitter. The splitter that comes attached to the plastic guard is a couple inches too far back to be really safe. Also, when you remove the guard to do raised panels and stuff, the splitter gets removed as well.


Third issue. If I build a sled, do I still need a splitter or does the sled itself act as one? I've seen about 20 sleds people made and only 1 had a splitter. IOW, are they safe without splitters?

Fourth issue. This involves the plastic blade guard. I read a story from a woodworker who was badly injured b/c he removed it and cut a large sheet of plywood. The plywood somehow got kicked back at him, injuring him badly in the groin. I guess the lesson I take from this is to leave the guard on unless you can't (like when doing raised panels)

Fifth issue: I've had the plastic guard down while cutting and have had wood fly back thru the narrow guard and lodge into my finger. It hurt but healed. I started wearing leather gloves but found the danger there is that it makes your fingers more clumsy.

Thanks!

David Vergun


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## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

1st issue, can only be solved by making your own or finding a quality aftermarket zero insert. I run a Grizzly so I can't say I've ever seen a Shop-master insert.

2nd issue, again a very difficult mod for an old issue, newer US saws and almost all Euro saw come with a splitter/riving knife that is attached to the trunnion itself. Makes it difficult to make your own zero inserts. I never use splinters as they are a pain to adjust but I love my riving knife.

3rd issue, no need for a splitter on a sled, overhead guard can be nice but not necessary, a sled is probably your best option and they are very versatile, I know workers who have a half dozen or so sleds. Best mod for a table saw, ever!


4th issue, the plastic guard won't solve the kickback issue that's the splitter with anti-kickback device. Again I never use a splitter and I don't have a blade guard, they make awesome aftermarket units that mount overhead that swing out of the way. These are nice because they don't have finicky splitters yet still offer protection. The biggest issue with a TS is the exposed blade, kickback is the second...

5th issue, many aftermarket guards come with dust collection, and many have narrow or nearly closed front's. As for gloves I wear mechanics gloves when working with the saw sometimes. I use the landscape gloves because they are cheaper and available everywhere. The are form fitting and have a nice leather pad that helps hold brick but works well with wood. My favorite are framers gloves nearly identical to the landscape glove but missing the finger tips on the 1st and 2nd digit as well as the thumb. Helps hold nails screws etc, without destroying the fingertips of the gloves. I find if I need to protect my actual finger tip from wear from screws doing sheet rock etc a wrap of electrical tape goes a long way and is cheap.

BTW I use Ironclad gloves, awesome products in the mentioned types above.

Little background after dealing with in adequacy of my 10" craftsmen, I upgrade to a 10" Grizzly, along with a more precision product the other features; sold me. The most important were teh quick release splitter and riving knife. 

[*]Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase[*]Amps: 13[*]Blade tilt: Left[*]Table height from floor: 34-7/8"[*]Table size with extension: 27" x 75-3/4"[*]Arbor speed: 3600 RPM[*]Arbor size: 5/8"[*]Maximum dado width: 1"[*]Maximum depth of cut @ 90°: 3-3/16"[*]Maximum depth of cut @ 45°: 2-1/4"[*]Maximum rip capacity: 52"[*]Distance from front of table to blade at maximum cut: 10-5/16"[*]Distance from front of table to center of blade: 14-7/8"[*]Precision-ground cast iron table[*]Cast iron trunnions[*]3/8" x 3/4" T-slots & miter gauge[*]4" dust port[*]Power transfer: V-belt[*]Steel cabinet[*]Hinged motor cover[*]Right hand and rear extension tables[*]Magnetic switch with thermal overload protection[*]Quick release steel splitter [*]Digital readout for bevel angle[*]Includes 10" blade[/list]
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-...nife/G0651


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

1. you can use mylay or another thin plastic sheet to make a new table surface, I use tempered masonite. With the blade turning I slowly let the masonite settle as the blade cuts out it's clearance.. I make them full table size. I suspect with the plastic, a sharp knife might be better than cutting in place. 

2. I removed my splitter because it refuse to sit at 90degrees, kept leaning over... 

3. ??? only sled I know was a flexi-flyer! lol 

4. I removed the plastic blade guard because my planks are too thick...31/2". I've had kick backs, so now I stand off to the side... no more bruises. 

5. yes gloves, you might want to try fingerless gloves, but that defeats the purpose somewhat. And pusher sticks, fingers should always be a few inches from the blade. Had a friend in highschool with a scar from the tip of his middle finger to half way up his fore arm... "the blade grabbed me" I respect that blade! 

6. Eyewear protection... I use clear plastic goggles, only cat hair itches worse than cedar chips! 

John


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have a plastic insert the same thickness as my metal insert. I cut it to fit the raised the blade up through the plastic. I glued some thicker strips of plastic on either side of the slit for a little more stability.

I am scared poopless of that rotating blade. I use push sticks for everything in close. 

I have a big 10 inch table saw for the big stuff.

Then I have a 7 1/4 direct drive for small stuff. 
But I still use push sticks. 

Also safety glasses 

JJ


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

JJ, 
Consider making a sled. The wood clamps to it and the sled slides in the mitre grooves in the table. Your hands are far enough away as they only need to keep the sled in it's grooves as you push. 

I found some free plans and these looked the most versatile: 

http://www.bobsplans.com/FreeJigPlans/TableSawJig/TableSawJig.htm 

John


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

As for the gloves, I suspect a sharp quality finishing blade would solve that problem by producing very clean cuts with no splintering. No splinters, no gloves needed. 

Myself, I never use the guard nor the splitter/anti-kickback device. I just make damn sure I'm standing to one side (the side away from the fence) and not between the fence and the blade. I'm also very aware of where my fingers are in relationship to the blade. A featherboard clamped to the fence and pressing down slightly on the work will also act as an anti-kickback device.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Dave, 

Another approach to the zero clearance insert for your older saw is to take the existing insert and make it a zero clearance insert. Go to the local auto parts store and purchase some 'Bondo' body filler. Stretch a piece of plastic wrap tight on a smooth surface. Turn your existing insert ups side down on the plastic wrap. Fill the insert opening with the Bondo, making certain to carry the bondo over the sides of the opening for stability. Allow ample curing time for the bondo. Replace the insert in the saw with the blade in the fully retracted position. Turn on the saw an raise the blade slowly to the desired cutting height. Instant zero clearance insert. The advantage here is that when it gets too sloppy, just remove the old Bondo and do it again. 

As for sleds, riving knives, guards and such... I have removed all of mine. Doing the small work for the hobby on a full 10" table saw, I find all the 'Safety Appliances' to be more of a risk than a benefit. As Dwight said above, using feather boards on both the rip fence and the table work as well as the anti-kick back devices provided with the saw. 

The only other recommendation I have is to use SHARP blades, change them often, and the higher the tooth count the better (smoother). 

Good Luck!! 

Bob C.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

David,
You didn't phrase your issues as questions (except #3), so I'm not exactly sure what your questions are, but I'll give it a shot:

1) Zero clearance inserts are definitely worth whatever it takes to make or obtain one. I don't understand why you can't make your homemade one the correct thickness. Does it sit in a pocket in the metal saw table top? Do you have a router you could use to cut a rabbet along the underside edges of the insert? 

2) Most factory-supplied splitters are worthless, as they aren't thick enough to keep the kerf from closing. For one that actually works, see Micro Jig Splitter


3) You don't need a splitter with a sled, because sleds are for cross-cutting and splitters come into play when ripping. Sleds are an excellent tool for cross-cutting. I use a small one for small stock, and a large one for cutting sheet goods.


4) I haven't had the plastic guard on my tablesaw for quite a while now, not because I don't believe in safety but because that particular one causes as many problems as it solves. It's in the way of my anti-kickback wheels on narrow rips, it's in the way of using a sled for cross-cutting, it's in the way of using my GRR-Ripper, all of which make cutting safer.


5) The jury is split on the issue of wearing gloves around woodworking machines. I don't, but if I did, it would only be tight fitting ones with rubbery grip, not leather ones. You might want to read this http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=68160


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## geb (Feb 15, 2008)

You sound very sensitive to safety which is half the battle in keeping your skin in one piece. 

One thing not mentioned above is how much blade is exposed above your work piece. I never go below the gullet of teeth when cutting rip or cross. 

And find a 2x6 cut off, cut it down to 8-9 inches, smooth over on corner where you hand will rest and some means of catching onto the work piece on the other corner of the same end. Now you have a push block that keeps your hand 5 inches off the blade and will push both side of the blade. 

Bill


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

David, I have a similiar Delta table saw. I made a 0 clearance insert using plexiglass. I cut it the size of the original metal insert and gradually raised the running blade till it had made a slot. I have used this technique for the last 8 years and it has worked well. Eventually the plexiglass will wear out from use but I followed the same proceedure and make an other one. 
Ron


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

These are the zero clearance inserts that I buy. I have several. 1 for thin kerf; 1 for regular; 1 for different dado thicknesses.

Zero Clearance Inserts

I have no interest in this company. They make the rounds of the annual "Woodworking" shows.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

wow, didn't expect to see very many responses, if any, I'm still trying to digest and read everything here. Clarification: the anti-kickback devices are located on the plastic guards, as is the splitter.

I neglected to take a photo of the insert so this morning I drew it up in Photoshop. As you can see, there's a huge gap, designed I'm sure to allow the blade to be tilted. In making an insert there are 4 problems. 1. Notice that there's no ledge on the other side of the blade to even support an insert!. 2. Notice that the only screws are to the far side, therefore, there are no places for screws on the other side of the blade! 3. The 2 screws that are supplied are lowered into the insert as the metal bends downward to the screws (sort of like a countersink), making it harder to make an insert. The screwheads are round so therefore the countersink 4. Also, the insert would HAVE to be made of metal b/c just below the insert is a lip that is nearly flush with the top of the saw table, enabling only thin steel to be used. As far as I can tell, there are NO aftermarket inserts made for this table saw and I believe Delta doesn't even make them anymore. The aftermarket insert would need the screws at the far end only, making it extremely unstable, as wood running thru could push an insert down on the far side as there's no ledge.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Given the things I used to make with Dad's guardless table saw, I should have run out of fingers long ago. I have an 8 1/2 fingered friend, but all of mine are here.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Here's a short video showing the ZCI I made from steel and how it can be pushed down and flap. The power cord to the TS is disconnected, so don't freak b/c my fingers are in the blade area :0-) 

The video also shows the rest of my garage workshop which I just finished setting up, with a wheeled workbench that can be pushed out into the driveway to do sawing. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAdjcu1yBlA


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I really like that saw with the blade that retracts.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I thought all TSs have retractable blades? 

BTW, notice the push stick that is mounted on the fence. It is made to rip thin ties


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Regarding gloves; I'm salvaging an old Pecky cedar roof/ceiling and I get splinters from the wood not the kerf. I use the 10" saw to rip more mangable sizes (the planks are aprox; 3" x 16" x 14'). I use a chain saw to cut them down to 8 - 10' long. Wearing the gloves I feed the plank to the blade until I'm half way through and then while holding the wood down I move to the other side and pull the rest of the cut through. Finer cuts are then made on the 8" saw and no gloves are worn... 

I did manage to take a chunk out of my left thumb this summer! My left hand was applying pressure to keep the wood next to the fence as I used a pusher to feed it, my thumb slipped over the wood and the blade caught about an 1/8th " just under the nail... Not a real bad wound, but I kept thinking how bad it could have been. I now have feather boards! Oh it healed up fine. 
Yes I got back on that horse! 

John


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Torby on 05 Nov 2009 07:15 AM 
I really like that saw with the blade that retracts. 
Are you thinking, instead, of the saw that has the blade brake system: SawStop ? A very slick system, indeed.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Dave/SE18

I'm late to the party but can't resist a few comments. BTW, nice shop. I enjoyed the tour. What is that orange machine in the wooden fixture with rods running across, and small pieces of round wood scattered under?

To the saw questions: That gullet (or throat) plate is a serious hazard, sure enough. Making another one isn't going to be a one-hour job, looks like, due to the curly corners and whatnot. The lack of support along one side is regrettable. And on a 10" saw, no less. Are there no vertical ribs on the saw table underneath that you might drill through? If not, are you confident enough to drill and countersink two screwholes in the table itself? Then you could fasten 'arms' out to support that thin edge, or just make a wider plate to begin with and secure that side with flathead screws and t-nuts.

I have to make a gullet plate too, for my old 7" Dunlap table saw. Just haven't done it yet, and for the same reason: it's a lot of work.

Since all the feedback you've gotten is good, there's nothing left for me to leave except a few opinions. And that's all they are:

I wouldn't give a rat's posterior for any anti-kickback gizmo, every one I've seen is a sincere POS. Ditto a saw guard on top, the destroyer of perspective and angles and whatnot. That's what safety glasses are for, and I use mine on the 10" every time. On my little Dunlap, I don't, usually. I've a long time ago learned to keep my face out of line with the plane of the rotating blade. But I wear glasses anyway, for close in. There's another option: find yourself a little 7" table saw for small work. I also have the HF 4" mini saw (like the MicroMark one but much cheaper). Haven't had a chance to use it yet.

I don't like direct drive saws. I have this fantasy that they add to kickback problems. Also, you can't change pulleys to change blade speeds on the rare occasions you might want to.

Wearing gloves seems to me to be hazardous, because I've seen guys get their hands sucked in when a blade grabs the glove. There was a thread about sawmills here awhile back. I think.

I would recommend you make a push stick out of a piece of 12" long furring strip. Just cut a shallow V notch in one end to suit, and a slope on the other that seems good to you. Another person suggested a flat pusher from a 2 x 6. You NEED BADLY both of these items, since you can always make more when they get chewed up. Fingers come 8 to a customer, only. (Plus two thumbs.) I make my flat pushers from pieces of 3/4" 1x6, but thicker is good, too. Might even be better.

That clamp that you've got the featherboard attached to the rip fence with: is that a plastic or light aluminum one? You might want to put a steel C clamp there; if it ever came loose there'd be lots of local excitement for a minute.

Try not to saw through knots. When you do, slow down the feedrate a whole lot and keep your face out of the way.

Lastly, I much perfer a table saw over a radial arm saw. 

Lastly again, the advice from another about just keeping enough blade exposed is excellent.

And, really lastly, if you take an old square floor fan and put a piece of furnace filter on the back side, the 'air intake' side, and hang that directly over your table saw, you'd be amazed at how much dust it collects. You want it filter side down. I use the blue horsehair-type filter.

Les


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Les, 

As usual, thanks. Wish I had a neighbor like you. 

The item in question is a cam board, called a "ski" in router lexicon. The router skiis along the 2 long boards to make precision cuts. Of course a table saw could do that too, but the plunge router can do some magic tricks in this manner b/c the cams (affixed by bolt to T-nuts below, about 50 t nuts!) can allow you to hold your projects at any angle securely. Guys use this setup to do things like plaque or frame edgings. I will be using mine, of course, for making trains. 

If you remove the 2 wood battens on each end of the cam board (the battens, which guide the skiis, are also attached by T-nuts on the underside for quick removal), you can then move the router free-style around things like templates. The contraption I built is made from all-thread and holds the router up in the air. The main advantage of using the plunge router in this manner, besides that which I mentioned, is that instead of concentrating on holding the router level, you can concentrate on the work you are performing and give your arms a rest as you are doing it. 

I posted the cam board in this tool section several months ago and should be here somewhere. I added the T-nuts about a week ago, as it was a pain turning the cam board over each time to hold the nut, while tightening the bolts from the front, if you know what I mean. 

The cam board, of course could be used in other instances, for example to hold work for dremel, drilling projects and so on and so forth. 

Back to the topic of my TS, I highly recommend NOT getting one like mine. 

Cheers 

Dave Vergun 

Oh, I forgot to add that a ski router has been used to do unusual projects like surf boards. The slope to the surf board (or skateboards too), is made by resting the wooden arms of the plunge router, like the one I have, on a sloping surface and guiding it along. Of course, multiple passes need to be made and you'd use a special router bit that is wide and shaves the wood like a planer. Some serious routologists have even used the ski router in a modified form to carve things on logs.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

That's the one. The blade pops down out of the way and stops. It would hurt, but you wouldn't loose any parts. My 8 1/2 fingered friend also has scars on his front from a belt sander. He gave up woodworking and programs computers now.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Dave wrote: "As usual, thanks. Wish I had a neighbor like you."

I wish I had a neighbor like you, who's interested in tools that are not mine.









Les, the Dillitante Sawologist.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, 

Very good points.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Les on 05 Nov 2009 04:12 PM I wouldn't give a rat's posterior for any anti-kickback gizmo, every one I've seen is a sincere POS.




Les,
I'm guessing you haven't seen, and certainly not used, Board Buddies anti-kickback hold-downs. They are definitely not POS. I've had them on my saw for something like 20 years now. I can't say if they've saved my bacon or not - that would be impossible to know - but the sense of improved safety and control when ripping is real. I could probably leave a board on the saw with the saw running, hands-free, all day long and it wouldn't go anywhere. Quicker to set up than featherboards. Not a cure-all, though - they work best for work that is no narrower than a few inches (blade to fence) - that leaves room for your push stick to get by them. I have mine mounted on board that slides into the top of my Vega fence; that way, I can simply slide out them out and take them off when I don't want them. They wouldn't make sense for small work typical of scale trestle pieces - for that I recommend the GRRR_Ripper from Microjig


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Jim,

Thanks for the links to the table saw accessories.

I think I made a mistake by not mentioning that I do have hold-down devices, and I use them--though not nearly as often as I should. I hope I didn't leave the thought in anyone's mind that hold-downs are worthless, *they are vital to good results and safety* in certain (or many) situations. Particularly for those who are not vey experienced with bench-mount power tools. Also, I admit to a certain mindset of some old guys: "Aw, hey, I done 'er like this a thousand times, I can skin by one more, surely." This is also called the "Asking for Trouble" syndrome. Rather than take the time to set up properly, I rely overmuch on a push-stick and push-block, and experience.

I do have holddowns for my 10" saw, a Craftsman that is more than 35 years old, and was next to top-of-the-line when Craftsman wasn't called 'Crapsman'. It has a fore and after rail for the rip fence, to which I've added 3/4" stock on each side so I can rip from either side of the blade. (I'm ambidexterous to a high degree--or used to be). On top of each board is a mount for the arm and flat-spring holddowns that Sears used to sell. I've got four, two hold the work against the blade before and after the blade, adjusted for kerf appropriately. Two hold down the work in the same way, from above. I used to use 'em an awfully lot. Now with increasing age, my standards have slipped and I just don't want to spend limited energy setting up and tightening 2 to 4 allen screws. That's my problem, no one else's.

As for anti-kickback devices, therein lies a discussion akin to this board's famous "Is LGB Really Dead?" controversy. I don't like them because I was taught by my Dad on an old 8" Craftsman that had no notion of such a thing. I've often noted that I much prefer belt driven saws to direct drive, and I've said once that I have this fantasy a DD saw adds to kickback problems. Second, I was taught that one doesn't want a huge motor driving that blade, certainly nothing you can't throw muscle on in a kickback situation and stall the motor. And that you kept your face out of the plane of the rotating saw. Which is why I don't use the top cover guard, it destroys the look angle caused by looking at the cut/work from a side angle. The rest was common sense and experience. Today, I'd reccommend any new table saw user to get a booklet on 'Table Saw Tips 'n Tricks' or the like, and read it carefully. I've had a few boards hang up with the anti-kickback things, or they get bent over or mis-set and you end up with a bad rip because of it, or much worse, it hangs the work up where you can't free it and there's a lot of commotion until you can hit the power switch. The switch, to me anyway, should be a palm-slap on/off device, located right about where your left pants pocket is. And if you have more than one saw, make that switch location common to all of them. I guess, what I have is a lifetime of home and industrial experience, I've read the safety books, and used the necessary safeties--even made a few of my own for special jobs.

I can sum it up by saying to newbie saw owners (and other bench power tools that eat fingers) is "Use safties. Use more safties. Don't take chances. Read some manuals on tool use. Lots of good spillover info between various finger-removers. And mostly, "THINK about what you're doing."

Wife's rattling my food dish. Oh boy, ohboy....









Les


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I've experienced 2 types of "kickback". Kickback in the traditional sense where the wood comes toward you and kickforward with the wood shooting like a rocket. Believe it or not, I had a piece of 2x4 shoot 20 feet away into my neighbor's yard. 

I did some table sawing the last couple days and tried to use the plastic guard (pictured in the video). It kept getting in the way of my push stick, limited my vision, and the wood had trouble going past the built-in splitter. It was a nuisance so I relegated it to a box. This is the 2nd time I've tried using it and experience nothing but frustration. 

I didn't take a picture but I did design a push stick out of thin board and jigsaw. It looks like this. I forgot the name of the wood. It's dark brown, shinny on one side and very rough on the other side. It is manufactured board and very common. The name slips my memory but if you said it, I'd know it. I think it starts with an M

It's only about 1/4" thick so good for pushing strip wood thru. The back piece grips and pushes the wood. The handle is up high to keep fingers far from the blade, which wouldn't stick up very high.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Masonite, The dark side means it's been tempered, they also have an un tempered version that breaks up easily...


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

That was it. I was thinking masonry or something but it's masonite. I didn't know about the variation of masonite.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Masonite dust destroys my breathing for about a week. I can't even be around in the same building where it's being sawed. I have an allergy to it, even my skin breaks out where the dust gets on it.

My push sticks are nothing so elaborate: just a 12" or so furring strip with a notch cut in one end and a slope on the other. I make 'em on the bandsaw, but you can do it on a tablesaw with a blade tilt.

Doesn't masonite break (snap) fairly easily?

Les


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

I wouldn't reccommend the use of masonite in this situation. The fine dust that is caused is an irritant which possibly can lead to health problems later on. Should you have to, the use of a dust mask or respirator with glasses is advisable to prevent this problem. 

As a woodworker by background expendable wooden pushsticks and flatsticks are the way to go. It'll save your fingers. 

Woodworker magazine a year back did have some articles on things to make your work easier and safer. One of the items was a zero clearance table for table saws. I'll check my library for this.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Well, I nearly tore my thumb nail off the other day, and it wasn't even a table saw or power tool. I was using my hacksaw to cut some track and the blade somehow came off (about 15" blade) and tore thru my thumbnail causing blood to spurt, but it will heal. I thought I'd tightened the blade securely. 

Hand tools can bite too!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

My push sticks aren't so elaborate. Once the blade and fence are set I'll grab something out of the scrap pile, notch the under side at the end and then run through the blade and twice more with slight twists (for clearance) and I'm ready. Held at 30 degrees or so. Somewhys I forget where I set them or they run away... 

John


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

hehe The only tool scars I have are from hand tools


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## mike452 (Nov 7, 2020)

Table saws are different from one another in terms of designs, so it is advisable that you read the manual so that you are aware of the different parts of the table saw. Changing the blade of a Table saw is one of the easiest tasks if you have done it once. But for the newbies, it can be dangerous. You do the task easily and efficiently with 10 simple steps.

I learn those 10 Easy Steps to Change the Blade of a Table Saw from this article.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And now you have answered a 12 year old thread, so you can post links.


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