# safe cleaners



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

For plastic models, what are safe and unsafe cleaners? My models (LGB, Bachmann, HLW, Aristo) have features like...

- "plating" over plastic
- "brass" paint over metal 
- decals & paint over plastic
- etc.

Are alcohol-based cleaners good, or bad? 
Are ammonia-based cleaners good, or bad? 
Anything else to consider? 

Thanks---
Cliff


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

Soap and water for dust and dirt. I've occasionally used ammonia-based Windex (the clear kind) with no ill effects. But I put it lightly on the rag and wipe, I don't spray it on the directly plastic.

I try not to use anything stronger, as lots of things can attack the plastic. Things that I know don't work well:

I know that using "goo gone" to remove stickers leaves a residue that makes the plastic gloss rather then matte (this happened on an LGB powered tender I bought that someone had "named" with an inkjet printer white sticker)

409 is too strong. It attacked some spare LGB loco wheels (plastic centers with plated wheels). I wiped it off before it got bad, but I can see a difference in the texture of the plastic.

Acetone is amazing for cleaning the backs of wheels where the power pickup brushes leave carbon. But don't get it on the plastic. And don't ask how i know ;-)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Rule of thumb: start with the mildest cleaner and keep going until it's clean or you begin to attack the surface.

Of course there is a fine line between detecting possible damage and actually damaging something.

Greg


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I usually just use a new soft haired 2 inch paint brush to flick the dust off. 
If the loco or car is greasy, dirty or has nicotine coating I add a very small dribble of dish washing liquid or soap to a bowl of warm water then use the paint brush, dip it into the soapy water, wipe most water off and gently paint the loco or car. Gently stirring the surface up working up a lather for dirty stubborn coatings like nicitine. Use as little water as possible and do from the side rather than the top so any excess water does not run down into cracks etc. 
Tamp dry with towel etc. rinse again the same way with just water and tamp dry a second time. Put in front of a warm heater or hair dryer to blow dry. Just be careful of water getting into electrics etc. A few dribbles wont hurt much otherwise. Allow to dry in a warm room for a few days before boxing. 
Ammonia based cleaners (floor cleaners) can effect some chrome finishes. In fact they are sometimes used to completely remove them.
Alcohol can effect some types of finishes.

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For LGB, the LGB smoke fluid is a cleaner!!


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Dan Pierce said:


> For LGB, the LGB smoke fluid is a cleaner!!


But you would have to open the little bottle. Then they will know that it's been used... 

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Same with the Aristo smoke fluid, it can clean, and have not had it hurt anything yet.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Great tips gentlemen, and thanks for the further details Andrew.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The smoke fluid may be fine for incidental smudges that can be wiped with a soft cloth but often the filth gets in between small fixtures, details, rivets etc. which a cloth can't get at. Common is an all over film of nicotine or stuck on dust. Only a soft stirring brush with get at all those hard to access spots. Dilution and rinsing over is important too, otherwise you are just moving the dissolved sludge from one place to another, probably to where a cloth can't access. 
The other aspect is abrasion. Rubbing regularly with a cloth can polish up the large flat areas making the surface in those areas more shiny on semi flat finishes.

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I wind up using soft makeup brushes with a bit of armorall, work it into the surface, then come back with a dry one to pick up the excess. It has a cleaning ability that is very gentle and also restores the surface finish. It might darken paint a tiny bit, but an added bonus is that it has sun block that helps minimize the paint fading.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Andrew, more good tips.

Greg, I'd have never thought of Armorall. So it doesn't leave a film that invites dust, and is kind to decals & 
"plating"? Very interesting, I'll give it a whirl.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, it can leave a bit of a film, but it soaks in eventually. Never had it hurt decals or paint or anything else. 

It does have antistatic properties, so it does not "attract" dust.

Don't forget the sun block aspect... much of this paint fades.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Greg!


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