# Link and pin couplers?



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm getting ready to build some log cars and want to use the 'link and pin' couplers. I saw that Ozark has some. They appear to have a 'pin', or stud, that would somehow attach to the car. I don't know if there's some other piece that's required, or other couplers, or methods of attachment. I plan to use a wooden beam to attach them to. Any ideas? Bill


----------



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

There are three types of Ozark link and pin couplers, an End Beam mounted, as your describing, an Under Beam mounted, which has a screw hole in a tongue to use a screw into the end beam, and a finescale spring-draft coupler assembly that mounts into the cars frame just like the prototype. The last is fairly complex to add as the car frame needs to be buiilt around this coupler mounting. 

I use both of the other two, I like the under beam mount as its the most versital. 









Under frame, it just screws into the bottom of your end beam of the car. 









I also use this, the End Beam mout which you have to drill a hole in the end beam for the stud you describe, and glue with CA or epoxy 

Be carefull, as the stud is white metal and can be broken off easily if twisted in the mounting hole, so get the stud hole properly sized first. 

I also suggest using a lenth of thread or chain to attach the pin to the car, otherwise they dissappear very easily. 

Also be aware that Ozark sell 3 or 4 multi-pocket link and pins couplers for locomotives, there mountings are pretty self explainitory 

I also did a topic a while back about making cheap "Do It Yourself" link and pin couplers in the Model Making forum. 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/postid/59596/view/topic/Default.aspx



Also its a good idea once you set a hieght for the couplers, stay with that height, dont have 3 different coupler heights or you'll have issues.









My standard coupler hieght is an under beam Ozark mounted to an HLW minicar shorty gondola, I drilled a new mount hole to keep the coupler closer, and you can see the thread pin-keeper

Good Luck.


----------



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks a lot for the info and pics! Guess I need to revisit Ozark's site, I only saw one version. The type you show in the top pic are the style shown in the drawings I got (thanks to Bob, here in the Forum!) for the Michigan-California skeleton car. My Climax is for the M-C Lumber Co. also. That car used a main beam made of 3 pieces with the center timber's end recessed. So the first type appears more scale. I'll check out the reference you mention too!


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Cap'n Bill -

Here's how I mounted the Ozark "sill-mounted" L&P couplers on my Bachmann log car and 20ft gon bashes:



















Good luck with yours.


----------



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks, Jack, for the 'up close' pic of the Bachmann. That's very close to the style of the car I want to build. The one part that I can't quite figure out is the truck, beam, mounting scheme. Is that standard/ original equipment for the Bachmann car? Bill


----------



## chrisb (Jan 3, 2008)

I uses the ones that mount on the face of the end beam. I cut off the stub or sprue, drill it and tap it for a 4-40 bolt. Make sure the bolt is not so log that it will interfer with the link. Treat them with blacken it then sofisticated finishes rust and bolt them to the end beam or sill. I make my own links out of copper or brass wire bent and soldered.
I don't do much switching. I think L and P are the way to go. They will work with any other L and P by making a custom link if needed. Look great and you can make your own.
But backing up thru a curve can be a problem.


----------



## cephius (Jan 10, 2008)

Cap'nBill
Here are some pictures of the spring-draft link box vsmith mentioned was available from Ozark. These were packaged into a Hartford log car kit;





























Dave


----------



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

What is the width for the box/receiver you're showing-might glue up some wood while I'm figuring what detail stuff I need. I did find those particular couplers in the Ozark site. Shipping cost so much any more it doesn't make sense to order one thing.


----------



## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

I used to buy Ozark link-and-pin couplers by the hundreds for my kits. I like them a lot. Hartford's were quite a bit smaller - maybe prototypical for the cars he used them on, but the Ozark pockets look better to my eye on 1:20.3 stock. Note, however, that the mounting pin is slightly off-center. You have to drill the mounting hole .017" to the right to get the pocket lined up. This may not seem like a lot, but if both couplers are off by this amount, you have a 1/32" total error, which can be a problem during operation. 

I had an old Lionel caboose that I (more or less) converted to 1:20 to go with my small locos and rolling stock. All those cars and locos use link and pin couplers, so I've messed with a bunch of them. I had a set of the Ozark draft-gear couplers and so I used them on the caboose. I cut some draft timbers to attach to the underside of the center sills - this was done on the prototypes, too. That let me hang the couplers under the end sills, without cutting holes in the sills. 

With new couplers and trucks, repainted and relettered, the 'boose looks quite good running with cars like Hartford's 4-wheel stock. It's still obviously plastic, though, so I get a lot of "hey, who made _that_?" kinds of questions. 

Anyway, the draft-gear trucks are a very cool addition for the right car, so don't count them out.


----------

