# Alternative to LGB connector paste?



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Is there any alternative to the paste from LGB that is used to insure connectivity of the tracks at the rail [email protected] url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Some folks use NoAlox or a variation of that. I've found it in wire caps in low-volt ground lighting systems... 

As I understand it, it was designed to prevent alumuninum wires from oxidizing. but is now used to prevent that and corrosion in copper wires.. I think grease might do the same thing.... cover a sound connection to keep moisture out. 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The LGB paste is simple lithium based grease with graphite in it. You can get the same thing by buying a tin of wheel bearing grease with moly in it (superior). 

Or you could get something better. It's not clear if the NoAlox does anything special for brass/copper other than as a grease. I have not found information on their site to this end. 

I do have several SS split-jaw clamps with NoAlox on the railroad to see if it helps long term (over regular grease). 

Regards, Greg


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello Noela 
USA trains makes a conductive grease for rail joints and it is alot easier to acquire than the LGB stuff and probably works just as well. Part # 50002. I bought a 2oz jar years ago at a show for 6-7 $ . I use it on all my rail joiners but not on the rail clamps though I probably should. After a few years of use I haven't had any failures over 500 feet of track so I would say it works. 
Todd


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

As long as your track has ground contact and water around there will be some amount of oxidation at any joint between two metal surfaces at the contact point. If it is two different metals, it is just greater. No-Ox and similar compounds were perfected [?] when someone decided that using aluminum wire in houses was a good idea. It was used on ever connection where the aluminum was in contact with brass (light switches and outlets), and copper [usually the breaker panel]. I used it on my first layout in 1988 because I was using LGB brass joiners with AL rail. One major function was to try to keep water out of the joints. Based on its appearance, Greg''s description is probably close. Remember, the purpose is to reduce the rate of corrosion [oxidation]. I got mine at Homeless Depot or its local predecessor, Hechinger's. When I moved to elevated track with NS rail and SS joiners, I did not bother with it.


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

Have been using LGB track and trains for the last ten years. I stopped using the conductive paste more than 5 years ago. I use Split Jaw rail clamps that go over the joiner. The conductive paste doesn't really conduct electricity. I have found that it does collect a lot of dirt over time. If you are using rail joiners, they have a tendency to work themselves loose. To tighten all you need is a pair of pliers to squeeze them closed. You squeeze it from top to bottom not the sides. Regards, Dennis.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

gregs right about the lithium grease-have used LGB and now the cheapo tub-bout the same and a lot more for a lot less in the tub-got it at the local auto store 

the grease as well as the original LGB really works well IF you have a nice new clean unoxidized TIGHT rail joiner-these are pre-requisites 
mostly clean and tight-then the tiny amount of grease left does prevent oxidation and corrosion as well as keeping grit and stuff out- 
in loose joiners the effect is a bit the opposite-and getting them as tight as new is not that easy-but as dennis b says a gentle squeeze top to bottom (mostly) 


but since i break my outdoor layout down and re-set from time to time- 
im going to try dennis b's recommendation for over the joiner clamps-with a tiny bit of grease too 

and that grease is a mess and stains -so be mindful


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

The difference between the grease and NOALOX is that NOALOX chemical bind the O away from getting to the metal (causing oxidation). The grease relys on the fact that you try to envelop the metal from not getting air exposed. I personally like the chemiically active approch. I have seen excellent results with NOALOX.

We all know the grease from the car battery poles which were strongly covered in it, but it only worked for so long. It seems to me that NOALOX seems to have a longer effectiveness.


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