# Hardened crossing?



## Daddio (Jan 1, 2013)

Happy New Year!

I'm planning my first outdoor layout. Looking to find a way to create a hardened crossing that can be stepped on as it will cross a walkway. Also, is it possible to run across a lawn in a fashion that I could drive my riding mower over - or would the tracks be crushed under the weight? If so, I can modify the design to avoid that. Thanks!


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There are a lot of possible answers and they all depend upon what track you are using. Is it LGB, USA, AristoCraft, Lagas Creek, or some other manufacturer ? Is it code 332, 250, or some other size? Is it brass, stainless steel, aluminum or nickel/silver? I walk on my LGB and AristoCraft brass code 332 track all the time. Chuck


----------



## Daddio (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks, Chuck. I'm not quite sure what I will go with yet with track. I think I am going RC so I think I will write off the brass. Glad there are options. I guess I need to get further along with the track selection before I can get an answer. Are there any tracks I should stay away from if IU need something durable? Sorry for the stupid questions..


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Stan Cedarleaf crossed his driveway and drove a car over the tracks. But he used angle iron instead of track. What one has to conciser is What is under the track. It is a big enough mass to support the mower.? Is it a sidewalk? If not you may have to pour a large chunk of concrete to support the weight of the mower and then the track will be fine. 

JJ


----------



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

The biggest key is having the sides as high as the rail so what ever is driving over it can float across it.


----------



## Daddio (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks John


----------



## Daddio (Jan 1, 2013)

Sounds like there are lots of options. Thanks


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

The weak point on track is the joints. 

A single length of LGB track, approched square on a solid foundation, you could drive a car over. 

Two pieces joined with the factory sliding joiners, if you repeatedly flex the joints, will soon loosen and lose conductitivity or slide apart. 

If you want load-bearing track (load more than model trains), I think you need the track to rest firm on a solid foundation, like poured concrete, and use the longest rails possible with secured joiners (clamps.) 

In the interest of learning and getting started fast, I'd go with rail clamps and give it a whirl and repair and adapt as experimentation warrants.


----------



## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJpZK3oh8hw&list=UUoabCZCeYd7hl1UbnhVGxIg&index=31 
Look at the 1st min you will see it cross the driveway, concrete base with concrete poured right to the edge of the track and height too... been down for a few years now and no problems, hand cars and trailers run across the track.All battery power thou...


----------



## Daddio (Jan 1, 2013)

That layout is awesome - is it yours? I'd love to see a track plan of it.


----------



## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Daniel Peck on 01 Jan 2013 07:46 PM 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJpZK3oh8hw&list=UUoabCZCeYd7hl1UbnhVGxIg&index=31 
Look at the 1st min you will see it cross the driveway, concrete base with concrete poured right to the edge of the track and height too... been down for a few years now and no problems, hand cars and trailers run across the track.All battery power thou... That's one neat R.R. Tk's for sharing. Now watching the other videos or yours.


----------



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a section about 4' long that needed to be sturdy enough to allow a loaded yard cart to travel over it without damaging the track. I used pressure treated 2x4's to create a "U" shaped form kinda like a I beam but like Marty said the sides of the 2X4 needs to be level with the top of the rail head. If you go higher chances are you will run some equipment that will catch it. 
The crossing is 4' long but the "U" shaped channel is about 6' long. it is supported on both ends with buried concrete blocks and has gravel around it to aid in drainage so it wouldn't be sitting in water. So far so good. 
Using wood I know it will rot out someday but it has been in service now for 4 years. 
As for going across your lawn so a mower can go over it that would scare me into thinking that the blade might catch the track and tear up alot of brass money. You could probably make a concrete channel for that but you would need to set he track in it then you have issues with expansion and contraction. 
The wood "U" shaped crossing is a cheap and easy design.


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

consider placing expansion joints on either side of the crossing area to prevent rail problems... 

If rail needs to be in cement, it likely will not be affected by heat anymore than just the concrete would, as the concrete will act like a heat sink, and shield the rail to a degree from getting too hot.. 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Split Jaw makes a product they call Walk On. 
Brandon on his thread "to be named Railway build" instaled it on a couple of walkways.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...v/topic/aff/23/aft/122394/afpg/3/Default.aspx 

I don't know how wide it comes, but depending on the base you make, several may be placed together side by side. 
Concrete seems like over kill to me. 

Happy Rails 

John


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They'll custom make it for you, in as wide and as many tracks you want.. I will be getting some double track stuff... 

Greg


----------



## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

why not just do what the big boys do? 










spike in a guard rail and pour in some Sakrete.


----------

