# Turntable Question(s)



## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Hi Gang
As some of you know Im into building anything I can from steel for our Large scale hobby ie Bridges ,Truntables etc.
My question is: I would like to sell them as I build them and I love to build, and was wondering what kind of price should I be expecting? I put alot of work in these and am NOT out to make my retirement on 1 sale I want to promote our Hobby and not hurt anyone financially but then again not get hurt either. Im thinking about running the first one on Ebay for a few days and seeing how it does, and that itself should be happening sometime early this next week and then who knows????? I am including a very strong Gearmotor 4.5 rpm and all the hook ups, A mechanism of my own design to power the track directly attached to the Table, the only thing I dont have is an Indexing system, I have searched high and low and the cheapest one i found was 300 plus dollars so far so I scratched that off the list of " Must Haves"
I have done everything I could think of to post pictures of my latest creations on this site however somehow some way I cant seem to push the right button (computer Illiterate) so if any of yall are interested in just seeing the ones im building and one I have built please email me [email protected] and I will be happy to send you some of my pictures. 
And Thank yall for any and all input you can give me
Ben "Masonsdad" King


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## Ron Senek (Jan 2, 2008)

How big are the turntables you plan to make? I would think shipping would be your big downfall. I made one out of 1/4 steel plate 4' circle and it is heavy even without the bridge and tower.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Try a 12 or 24 volt DC solnoid. Put a "CONE" on the end of it. Mount this on the end of the Turntable. Creat a ring the same circumferance of the turn table pit. Drill holes in the ring at the right interval. 
The cone will parcially enter the drilled hole at the right place. If the table is off a little the cone will force it into the correct posistion. You should have perfect aleighment every time.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Ben, 

Not all of us use track power or need an indexing system so a stripped down version would also have a market I would think. A manual turntable based perhaps on the EBT would be a likely candidate for us poor shortline/narrow gauge operators. I know that for me at least steel fabrication isn't something I'm into so a ready source for a "smallish" steel manually operated turntable would be quite attractive.


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Posted By John J on 06/23/2009 9:55 PM
Try a 12 or 24 volt DC solnoid. Put a "CONE" on the end of it. Mount this on the end of the Turntable. Creat a ring the same circumferance of the turn table pit. Drill holes in the ring at the right interval. 
The cone will parcially enter the drilled hole at the right place. If the table is off a little the cone will force it into the correct posistion. You should have perfect aleighment every time. 


Ya know thats a dang good idea Thanks JJ


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Posted By Ron Senek on 06/23/2009 9:48 PM
How big are the turntables you plan to make? I would think shipping would be your big downfall. I made one out of 1/4 steel plate 4' circle and it is heavy even without the bridge and tower.


Mine are 4 foot too and all very light wieght material and I plan on shipping in 2 parts, 1 for the base and the other for the bridge I learned a lesson with these shipping companies, if you can 2 part it it will cost less overall than shipping it complete


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Posted By Richard Smith on 06/23/2009 10:00 PM
Ben, 

Not all of us use track power or need an indexing system so a stripped down version would also have a market I would think. A manual turntable based perhaps on the EBT would be a likely candidate for us poor shortline/narrow gauge operators. I know that for me at least steel fabrication isn't something I'm into so a ready source for a "smallish" steel manually operated turntable would be quite attractive.


Well I can do that too I can build a stripped down version dang neared any size you want


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've got your challenge Ben, it's time to make a stainless steel bridge and trestle system. 

I need to build a curved trestle with a swing up or lift out section, see this page:

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/layout-progress-aamp-development-mainmenu-57/180-degree-loop-and-bridge

After that, I need several long trestle sections that get back to ground level. 


I'll be contacting you with pictures and we'll see if it's possible. 

Regards, Greg


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Ben
Another way to stop the rotation is with a proximity swith, they work off a magnet. They can be about 1/8" diameter, and they can be glued in place in the wall or under the floor, one switch on the gantry and a magnet at each track, 
once you get the magnets located the switch will stop it at the same location everytime. A momentary push button will over ride the stop and once it is past the magnet it will run till the next magnet and stop or you hold the button down to pass that magnet till you get to the desired track. if you go with the electronics under the floor you can go around and around, if you place the switch on the gantry above the floor you will need to reverse the direction to prevent wind up of the wires. Oh I know the are items to allow rotation with wind up of the wire, but they all cost extra. As a steel fabricator and machine manufacture when you add a dollor the the cost of the mfg, it adds 150 to 250 the the end cost of the product. Be sides these things are not ran hours everyday and in most cases us modelers would rather save a few bucks, even if it adds just a LITTLE to the inconvience, Good prox switch and a dozen mags would cost less than 50 bucks, If you need a drawing of what I am refering to let me know.
Dennis


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Ben, 

The prox switch is a great idea. Now couple that with a gold plated 1/4" phono jack as the pivot for the turntable, and you have a switch with wiring that does not twist up. I cannont take credit for the phono plug idea, I read it on one forum or another. I plan to use it when I build my 60' (scale) gallows turnable to provide track power. 

Bob


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Stead of the phono plug, go for a "phone" plug. 










These turn very easily in their jacks.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Yikes Torby....What a great Idea. I will use this on another project I am thinkig about.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom, you are showing a "mini" phone plug, 1/8" diameter. Bob suggested the old standard phone plug, which is 1/4" and much larger, sturdier and larger contact surface. 

He did not mean the RCA phono plug, which is neither 1/4" in diameter nor 3 conductor. 

I got what he said right off... 

Regards, Greg


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Greg, 

Thanks for clarifying my fumbled repeat of another post somewhere in cyberspace forums. However, the third circuit might prove beneficial in some instances. I believe you can still get these at Radio Shack and not too expensive. Another thought...if you stack two of them axially you might be able to do both track power and prox control...hmmmmm. 

Another tuppence worth... 

Bob


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

By the way, use the jack side on the turntable, and the plug on the base.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The 1/4" phone plug was available in 2 circuit and 3 circuit versions too... for us people old enough to remember "before stereo" ha ha ha! 

I have some still!!! 

Regards, Greg


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 06/24/2009 11:11 PM
I've got your challenge Ben, it's time to make a stainless steel bridge and trestle system. 

I need to build a curved trestle with a swing up or lift out section, see this page:

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/layout-progress-aamp-development-mainmenu-57/180-degree-loop-and-bridge

After that, I need several long trestle sections that get back to ground level. 


I'll be contacting you with pictures and we'll see if it's possible. 

Regards, Greg

Hi Greg Just let me know when your ready I will be here Amigo


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Posted By armorsmith on 06/26/2009 8:24 PM
Ben, 

The prox switch is a great idea. Now couple that with a gold plated 1/4" phono jack as the pivot for the turntable, and you have a switch with wiring that does not twist up. I cannont take credit for the phono plug idea, I read it on one forum or another. I plan to use it when I build my 60' (scale) gallows turnable to provide track power. 

Bob


I like that idea too and will give it a try on the next wave of tables right now i have about 100 bucks out on contactors that they wont take back so i have to justify the purchase or my wife will ??????? thats a whole other post we wont go there LOL, But that is an AWESOME IDEA !!and to think of the headaches, tylenol and belly aching wife I could have done without if only I would have come here first shees


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, that's just 'cause I couldn't find a good shot off-hand of a 1/4 inch phone plug. 

OT: Any of you musicians know: A base guitar has a 1/4 inch phone plug to the amp. Is it 2 or 3 conductor?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think it's only 2 wire... used to sell guitars... in 1968... 

Greg


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Anyone know where I could get a phone plug like the one posted by Torby in the picture above?


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I never would've thought of using a phone plug for the pivot; that's great out-of-the-box thinking. Every Radio Shack has a chest of drawers with all sorts of components in little plastic bags. You'll find what you need there. 

My only caveat would be....over the years I've run into any number of phone connectors of all sizes (1/4, 1/8, 3/32) that were loosely assembled (eg. friction from your turntable could cause the tip to rotate, twisting its wire with every revolution). It could break its wire, or cause a short with the others. Keeping the pivot point well lubricated should minimize the problem. 

JackM


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Jack. I don't want to use the phone plug for support, I have other ideas for that, but just to provide power to a loco without the wires twisting. 

I think I found what I need, a mono phone plug (Radio Shack # 274-1536) - to give me two wires to connect to power, and the panel mount (RS # 274-252) for two wires to the track. 

Heading to the Shack now, can't wait to see if it works.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Tim, 

Try your local Radio Shack. 

Bob C.


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