# Introduction with some Accucraft Ruby Questions



## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

Hello,

I just joined these forums after being directed here by google while doing some research for some accessories for my Accucraft Ruby.

So, before I get into things I guess I will introduce myself:

My dad and I are new to the g-scale live steam hobby, we have been active modelers for quite a while now (my dad much longer than myself). We currently model in Scale S, G-Scale, and Live Steam (7.5" gauge) - while also enjoying train watching on top of that. Our G-scale up to this point has been tame by many standards, we have a small setup in the basement in the middle of our S layout with a collection of LGB trains dating back many years. We found out about live steam g-scale about a year ago and have since been enthralled with it. I bought myself the Accucraft Ruby as a starter engine to get into the hobby. 

Since then we have plans of building an elevated outdoor railroad to accommodate larger engines (the inside layout has


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome Patrick
I'm sure you'll find all the info you need here and maybe make some friends.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome to MLS Patrick. As Kent says, all the answers are here - you just have to know where to find them! 

with the smoke box door closed the fire wants to go out.

I did a lot of research with my Ruby variant (FWRR loco) and discovered the airflow in the smokebox and stack diameter are the critical issue here. What's going on is that the Accucraft locos cough copious amounts of oil out with their steam into the stack, and that inhibits airflow through the flue so the fire goes out. Here's a couple of threads that will give you the gory details:

Something wrong with the stack of my Ruby steam 

FWRR Ruby firing problems - redux 

[Incidentally, I found them using my special Google search: "site:mylargescale.com ruby stack problems" ] 

As for your other two questions . . . 

I've not heard of any issues with with either whistle, though I have no personal experience. I will be very impressed if you can find room to fit one on a Ruby though. IMHO the sound isn't as deep as I'd like it to be? 

The Chuffer/Bark box is a tie - both work and both improve the sound. [Videos on Youtube.] Both cut down on the oil gunge flying out of the stack - but also may block it further, afffecting your fire problem. I know the Chuffer will, as I have one - the bark box may not and may solve your fire problem at the same time if it doesn't extend into the stack.


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 20 Nov 2010 08:06 AM 

I did a lot of research with my Ruby variant (FWRR loco) and discovered the airflow in the smokebox and stack diameter are the critical issue here. What's going on is that the Accucraft locos cough copious amounts of oil out with their steam into the stack, and that inhibits airflow through the flue so the fire goes out. Here's a couple of threads that will give you the gory details:

Something wrong with the stack of my Ruby steam 

FWRR Ruby firing problems - redux 

[Incidentally, I found them using my special Google search: "site:mylargescale.com ruby stack problems" ] 

As for your other two questions . . . 

I've not heard of any issues with with either whistle, though I have no personal experience. I will be very impressed if you can find room to fit one on a Ruby though. IMHO the sound isn't as deep as I'd like it to be? 

The Chuffer/Bark box is a tie - both work and both improve the sound. [Videos on Youtube.] Both cut down on the oil gunge flying out of the stack - but also may block it further, afffecting your fire problem. I know the Chuffer will, as I have one - the bark box may not and may solve your fire problem at the same time if it doesn't extend into the stack. 


Thank you for the info!

I will probably leave the fire problem alone for now, I might attempt a fix at that later on.

I will probably end up getting the chuffer then, as it seems a little more common and is quite a bit cheaper (saves more money for a whistle!).

Haven't figured out how I will mount the whistle, having to take the entire cab off kind of messes it up - maybe I will make the cab mounted with a removable roof?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I will probably leave the fire problem alone for now, I might attempt a fix at that later on. 

I will probably end up getting the chuffer then 

ChaoticRambo (? real name ?) 

The Chuffer will make your fire problem worse, as it is wider than the standard pipe in the stack. I suggest you cut out the bottom of the smokebox per Dave Hottmann's suggestions [link in one of the prior threads] to give you some more airflow.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Sir - four foot radius is 8 foot diameter, and quite a few of the smaller steam locos will easily go around that curve. Not A gauge 1 express loco, for sure, but quite a few NG models - for instance, the Roundhouse Sandy River Prairie #24... 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org 
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

I play a lot of competitive multiplayer computer games, hence - ChaoticRambo

I will deffinetly look into opening up a hole in the smoke box according to the guide posted.

And, when I said


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Patrick,

Here is a Weltyk Whistle on my old Geoffbuilt Shay...



p.s. Welcome to the fraternity.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

With 4 ft diameter curves all eight of my steamers will run. Two Rubys, one a stretch version with tender; Regner Willi, Regner Max, BAGRS, IP Jane, and my pair of Forneys. OK, the Forneys are not happy about it, but do track - they prefer the 5 ft diameter curves on my larger track. Essentially almost anything with 4 drivers should work.


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

Posted By gwscheil on 21 Nov 2010 07:45 AM 
With 4 ft diameter curves all eight of my steamers will run. Two Rubys, one a stretch version with tender; Regner Willi, Regner Max, BAGRS, IP Jane, and my pair of Forneys. OK, the Forneys are not happy about it, but do track - they prefer the 5 ft diameter curves on my larger track. Essentially almost anything with 4 drivers should work. 
Well the current plan is to either get a 4-4-0 or a 2-6-0 as our next engine. But again, that wont be happening until late next year at the earliest since our 7.5" gauge engine is due early summer. 

EDIT: Looks like things are going to be on the fast track instead of what we were previously anticipating. My mom gave us the go-ahead to start construction now. We will be cutting a 5 foot wide path through a grown up area for our first loop. It is going to be 60 x 35 with 10 foot radius curves.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

A while back I posted a couple of videos on YouTube comparing my Accucraft K-27 with a Bark Box to Mike McCormack's EBT-inspired Mikado (kitbashed from an Aristo Mikado), which has a scratchbuilt chuff enhancer he made to the Summerlands design... 





We were both running at the same time (this was at a steamup at Larry Mosher's place last year), and you'll notice in the videos that you can hear Mike's engine in the background of the K-27 clip, but you can't hear the K-27 on the clip of Mike's Mikado. The K-27 has a nice deep-sounding chuff. The Summerlands Chuffer is not as deep, but it's louder - you can hear it clear across the layout! Of course, these engines are also bigger than the Ruby. The sound from a Ruby-sized Bark Box won't be as deep, and the sound from a Ruby-sized Chuffer won't be as loud. 

Whistles are fun, and the Weltyk and DJB resonator whistles (IIRC, both of these are built to the Larry Bangham design) sound great, but they use a lot of steam. With a small-boilered engine like the Ruby, the loss of steam from blowing the whistle will be very noticeable.


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

Thanks for those videos.

Since it looks like we will be building our outdoor layout much earlier than anticipated, I might wait to do any of this and instead of modifying my Ruby, add these items to a 4-4-0 or 2-6-0 when we have a layout capable of running them.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah - you like videos? Here's my Chuffer video:


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Another examole of Summerlad Chuff enhancer.


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## mack505 (Jan 2, 2008)

Regarding whistles for the Ruby, Regner makes a whistle for their line of small engines. It should be adaptable to Ruby, although I don't know how much work it would take. 

Here's a random example from Youtube:


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

thanks for that, honestly - for a small engine, a high pitched whistle would be appropriate. The idea of adding things to the Ruby right now have been put on hold since we will be starting construction and a new railroad, and with that I will be buying either a 4-4-0, or a 2-6-0 from Accucraft.


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