# Things I would like to be able to buy



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

From time to time there have been a number of products that I wished someone made that I could buy at a reasonable price. They include:

1. An audible volt meter that would announce changes in track voltage (loud enough so I could hear it at least 20 feet away. This would tell me if and where there might be a loose or bad connection lowering the voltage actually getting to the locomotive, sound system and lights. An audible ammeter might do but not as well. Voltage or amps out of the power supply would not be as useful. 

This could be anywhere - in a loco, in a boxcar or even in a single purpose little car that could be at the front, middle or end of a train.

2a. A Hobbs (running time) meter. This would tell the total accumulated time a given train was run. This could tell when you might want to service a frequently used locomotive. If resettable it could tell the running time of individual sessions. If you want to get fancy you might want to come out with a "black box" that kept data similar to aircraft and trains.

2b. Perhaps someone might have an adjustable car-mounted alarm that could have a pre-set and adjustable alarm to let the owner (everyone) know if a child or guest exceeds whatever speed or voltage the owner previously determined to be safe on his layout. This would be preferable to "HEY YOU!!! SLOW IT DOWN!!!" and being automatic, just being aware of its existence, might result in more considerate use of open houses and private layouts.

3. A track mounted wheel gauge checking device. Even now I still run into the occasional out of gauge wheel causing a derailment - especially when crossing turnouts. Usually the problem is that the wheel slipped on the axel. This is usually impossible to see until a derailment. 

It is usually a quick and simple fix with a drop of super glue but the derailments are usually at the most difficult to reach places on the layout. A single track device could check every wheel every time the trains crossed it. Somehow it would have to trigger an audible alarm independent of track power.

Ease of installment on an existing layout would be desirable but perhaps much more complicated to build.

4. Track Shorting Bumpers. This could be an easily installed pair of track bumpers that when hit would not damage a loco but would short out the track until the shorting device was removed. The purpose would be that if for some reason (temporary programming track?) you want to work on a section of the layout but be sure that you or someone else does not accidentally run a train onto that section (like Blue Flagging the track). One device would be placed on each end of the blocked section of a track.

There are several MLSers (Dave?) who could probably come out with these. 

Would anyone else buy them? I am posting them because I would buy them but of course it would depend on their value to me personally that would determine how much I would pay for them.

One of my all time favorites is the VCS Timer I use it almost every day/night to run a train for 15 minutes and then slow down and stop. It is no longer made but I would never part with mine.

These came to mind in the time it took to write this. I will add others if and when they occur to me.

*Feel free to add other items you would like to see* with two conditions:

1. If you know how to build it but don't want to put the effort into making and selling it, please explain how it could be built.

2. It has to be something that you would personally be willing to pay for if someone made it (otherwise why would they make it?).

Jerry


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Good list of useful items!


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry

Regarding 2b: if it were me I'd get a high wattage rheostat and put it in the power line somewhere between your power supply and the track. Put it some where you can easily get to it, but others might not notice. Then before your guests arrive you could back it off so the maximum voltage (speed) is safe and reasonable. That way the kid/guest can crank the power supply up all they want to, but the voltage to the track is limited by the rheostat. When they are gone you can then set it back where you want it.

Chuck


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

chuck n said:


> Jerry
> 
> Regarding 2b: if it were me I'd get a high wattage rheostat and put it in the power line somewhere between your power supply and the track. Put it some where you can easily get to it, but others might not notice. Then before your guests arrive you could back it off so the maximum voltage (speed) is safe and reasonable. That way the kid/guest can crank the power supply up all they want to, but the voltage to the track is limited by the rheostat. When they are gone you can then set it back where you want it.
> 
> Chuck


Hi Chuck,

I used to have a portable layout that I would take to train shows etc. It was not uncommon for some kids to clearly be trying to run a (my) train off the rails. As I got older the trailer became a permanent layout and I no longer travel to the train shows. I very seldom have visitors so the problem has more or less sorted itself out (for me anyway).

Since I normally use Revolutions outside the solution was automatic. I did pretty much as you suggested in that I used an Aristo 15 amp 24VDC power supply with an Aristo controller between the power supply and the track. I even use it to limit my own maximum throttle according to the trains I run because I don't want to burn out the 18V lights in the Heavyweights.

Actually the biggest problem I've seen and have had has been visitors who, when given a remote control, set the remote down and carry on a conversation with another visitor while their (my) train is running uncontrolled around the track.

Perhaps what we need are remotes that shut themselves off when laid down.

This is a problem I don't have a solution for other than to limit the layouts to visitors I REALLY trust or that I can constantly keep an eye on.

Most visitors have no idea what trains cost. A friend has had his trains broken by adult visitors with no offer to pay for any of the damages caused by the visitors. 

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*More...*

With the increasing popularity of Go-Pro cameras how about...

A mount for a Go-Pro (perhaps with LEDs for lighting) that could be mounted on a short car that could be coupled to the front or rear of a train and pointed Forward, Sideways but especially DOWN. 

If positioned for proper focus it should be able to provide a precise view of your entire layout so that you should be able to spot those little pieces that tend to fall off or break off the trains and can be almost impossible to find. 

Add a tie-wide magnet of some sort and even if you don't see them, you might be able to pick up those tiny springs that occasionally pop out of a truck etc.

Jerry


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Regarding #4... I don't think you mean a "SHORTING" of the track...that would draw too much current from your power supply (and hopefully pop the circuit breaker in the supply output and not damage the supply). I think what you mean is to turn off power to the track when the end of track bumper is touched. I think a simple micro-switch in series with the power would suffice. It should be a normally closed switch and when a car is pressed against it, it would open and remove power. Back the car away from the switch and it would spring back and re-apply power.

I suppose you might want some latching relay instead of just a simple normally closed switch... if you back a short train into the stub track too fast it might hit the switch, which would turn off power, but having hit the bumper too hard, the train might bounce off of it and that would turn power back on, which would cause the engine to back up again and repeat the process... awful hard on the passengers to do that to them... or a "Milk train" might turn (or is that "CHURN") into a "Butter train"!

Another possibility would be just a simple toggle switch that the leading car presses on hard enough to flip it over, thus turning off power. You would then need to go to the switch and flip it back when you want power restored to that segment of track.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

My solution would be to control the controller. It's your train, don't hand it out to beginners, or those who don't understand the value involved.

Chuck


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Semper Vaporo said:


> Regarding #4... I don't think you mean a "SHORTING" of the track...that would draw too much current from your power supply (and hopefully pop the circuit breaker in the supply output and not damage the supply).


I should have been more clear.

In my case I did mean shorting the track because (in my case) the track I want to protect is a programming track that I have wired to switch between a Central Station II, a Central Station III or track power with an LGB Jumbo.

A short for me would work because it would instantly power off the Central Station II or Central Station III so I could be off anywhere on the layout knowing that the layout would be safely shut down if I let something run onto that track. I would not leave the Jumbo throttle on if I left the Jumbo to go anywhere.

The programming track is between two separately powered but connected layouts.

If the Jumbo was the source of power to the track (unlike MTS) it would only have enough power (throttle) to move a loco to the programming track and, since the Jumbo is only about 6 feet from the programming track, I would immediately hear the buzz of the Jumbo when the track was shorted.

Typically anytime I would drive anything onto the programming track I would be standing within a few feet but even then an LGB or Aristo Track Bumper might be solid enough to damage something if it was locked in place.

Of course others might have entirely different circumstances and dissimilar potential problems.

Jerry


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry,

We bought these hour meters surplus for our 1-1/2 scale Baldwin Electric project. They run on 12 volts DC and keep track of the total hours we have run our engines. The approximate dimensions are 1.5 inches square and about 4.5 inches long. Small enough to put in a box car in "G". Maybe Greg or someone else can help with how to wire this thing for your trains.


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## marsfromrexford (Feb 22, 2015)

A vibration activatd hour meter might work to log hours of run time. The ones I have seen ar small enough to fit in a cab, just look in a window to check it.

Mario


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Some interesting ideas Jerry.

I have a car that wirelessly reports speed and voltage, Dave Bodnar made it.

The QSI decoders have an odometer function just like you like.

If you used a different DCC system, you could limit top speed more easily, but why not limit track voltage if running DC, or set the max speed CV when running DCC? Pretty easy.

The wheel gauge one is a cool idea, it could be done, but probably need a camera and a program to analyze each wheelset as it rolls over the camera.

Quite creative ideas.

Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Gary Armitstead said:


> Jerry,
> 
> We bought these hour meters surplus for our 1-1/2 scale Baldwin Electric project. They run on 12 volts DC and keep track of the total hours we have run our engines. The approximate dimensions are 1.5 inches square and about 4.5 inches long. Small enough to put in a box car in "G". Maybe Greg or someone else can help with how to wire this thing for your trains.


Hi Gary,

I like it but the 4.5 inches long might be a problem and possibly 12 volts or DCC/DCS might or might not be a problem. Regardless, that is exactly what I had in mind if it could be made to work. The friend I had in mind likes large diesels where there might be enough room for it.

If you have any spares drop me a line with a price.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*More thoughts...*

For Rerailing a derailed locomotive or cars...

I have an assortment of pool cues and a long U shaped wall bracket with knives, hooks, loops etc. to pick up, pull and move derailed trains back onto the track when the derailment is out of reach. The pole of whatever has to be long enough and strong enough to lift at least one end of a heavy loco. There might be other ideas I have not thought of.

An Inspection Pit...

to enable me to see the bottoms of locos and rolling stock. This could be a clear plastic or glass plate (perhaps with some removed ties) that would make it possible for me or a camera to see markings on the locos that could tell me the model helping me to find the right schematic, instructions or make, type and Loco ID of decoders etc. 

While this can be done manually locos might be too heavy or parts too fragile to lift and rotate a large locomotive and tender.

It would also make it possible to mark the brand and type of sound system or other features not visible. I don't like marking the sides of locos etc. but marking the bottoms would be nice - if I did not have to lift the loco, tender etc. off the track.

This could be done fairly easily on a bridge but I'm not sure how to do it on a track that is on a flat surface - unless somehow a pit was created under the track.

A mirror on a stick - perhaps with a light attached and possibly a hinged stick...

To identify exactly what is on that siding behind the siding in front and what is on the siding behind that one etc.

A tube to adjust the sound volume of locos like F7A, F7B or newer Moguls...

that could slide over and rotate the little volume control knob where my fat fingers don't fit.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

"I have a car that wirelessly reports speed and voltage, Dave Bodnar made it."

Nice idea. Not surprised that Dave made it. I wonder what else Dave has been up to lately.

"The QSI decoders have an odometer function just like you like."

Perhaps they got the idea from the ProtoSound 1 they made for MTH. My O Gauge MTH locos are probably where I got the idea from. I did not know QSI made decoders.

"If you used a different DCC system, you could limit top speed more easily, but why not limit track voltage if running DC, or set the max speed CV when running DCC? Pretty easy."

If someone was looking for a different DCC system it could be worth knowing. 

I like the mechanical throttle limit of my Bridgewerks power supplies because it keeps me from accidentally knocking the throttle higher than I like.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

> It would also make it possible to mark the brand and type of sound system or other features not visible. I don't like marking the sides of locos etc. but marking the bottoms would be nice - if I did not have to lift the loco, tender etc. off the track.


For that sort of information I have a chart posted above my workbench and have a small loose leaf book that I can take ourside with me. What I'd really like would be a much smaller "book" that would be attached to my controller (NCE). Between QSI and Phoenix boards, etc., I can't remember all the various settings for volume, odometer, consists, etc.

JackM

Jerry - thanks for the pool cue idea. I've been using a hardware store yardstick. I'll be looking for one at the flea market.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

Jerry McColgan said:


> An Inspection Pit...
> 
> to enable me to see the bottoms of locos and rolling stock. This could be a clear plastic or glass plate (perhaps with some removed ties) that would make it possible for me or a camera to see markings on the locos that could tell me the model helping me to find the right schematic, instructions or make, type and Loco ID of decoders etc.
> 
> ...




What about one of those camera-on-a-stick things that auto parts stores sell for looking into tight spaces... sort of like a bore scope? They have a small screen attached... you could leave space between to ties to get the camera portion under the train and then slowly drive over.

A more low-tech way would be to excavate a short section and put an angled mirror like the MPs used to use to check cars for bombs.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

_4. Track Shorting Bumpers._ 

that should be easy to realize.

a hollow bumper beam.

two similar "modells" come to mind:
inside the beam two overlapping tongues of brass.
when the beam gets pushed against the bumper structure, one of two things happen:

1. the two tongues touch each other. and short the two rails connected to the tongues.

2. the two tongues are pushed apart, interrupting the current to one of the rails.

in both cases, the most sophisticated parts would be some springs, that push the beam back.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

JackM said:


> Jerry - thanks for the pool cue idea. I've been using a hardware store yardstick. I'll be looking for one at the flea market.


Hi Jack,

If one looks under the garage layout they would see a pool table (where the pool cues came from). Under a friends layout one would discover a filled in swimming pool.

I wonder what else might be hidden under other's layouts. 

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

riderdan said:


> What about one of those camera-on-a-stick things that auto parts stores sell for looking into tight spaces... sort of like a bore scope? They have a small screen attached... you could leave space between to ties to get the camera portion under the train and then slowly drive over.
> 
> A more low-tech way would be to excavate a short section and put an angled mirror like the MPs used to use to check cars for bombs.


I will have to look into auto parts stores. I am not familiar with that item. 

Probably the challenge would be the limited distance (for camera focus) between the surface the track is on and the underside of the loco or rolling stock.

One idea that crossed my mind would be to put an iPhone (any brand) in a section with enough ties removed to fit the iPhone into. I suspect it too would be too close but then there are a lot of cameras with tiny lenses like the iPhone, iPads, iPods etc. 

Perhaps the trick might be a narrow hole under the track - just wide enough for the field of view of the camera.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

kormsen said:


> _4. Track Shorting Bumpers._
> 
> that should be easy to realize.
> 
> ...


Nice idea. I can almost visualize it. I don't see the short as much of a problem since shorts are not uncommon with derailments etc.

Perhaps a bumper made of popsicle sticks covered with aluminum foil that could be held apart with anything non-conductive yet would short together when pushed.

I sometimes carry a short brass rail in my pocket in case of a runaway train where I could short the tracks to pop a breaker quicker than I could make it to the throttle to shut the power off.

Jerry


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry McColgan said:


> "I have a car that wirelessly reports speed and voltage, Dave Bodnar made it."
> 
> Nice idea. Not surprised that Dave made it. I wonder what else Dave has been up to lately.
> 
> ...


Hi, Jerry - The talking volt meter is not too tough a project to get working but there are a host of user interface issues - 
1. Would you want many voltage ranges (ie 0-2 volts, 0-20 volts, 0-200 volts)
2. AC and DC?
3 What accuracy? Speaking out a voltage to 10ths or 100ths of a volt would slow down information transfer
4. How verbose (ie "the voltage is 22.5" or just "22.5")
5. How often to repeat? Continuous, on change, once every 5 seconds, etc

If we limited it to 0-20 or 0 -24 volts DC (common on our trains) and only to 1/10ths of a volt accuracy with a 5 second repeat rate the process is pretty easy - I have done much of the hard work already on the talking defect detector: http://www.trainelectronics.com/Arduino/DefectDetector/index.htm 
and talking temperature gizmo: http://www.trainelectronics.com/Arduino/MP3Sound/TalkingTemperature/index.htm

I may put one together just to see how it works..... always interested in new projects!

As to what I have been up to, first of all, thanks for asking!

I haven't done much with my own railroad other than building a new seven foot long bridge: http://www.trainelectronics.com/Bridge7foot/

I continue to spend most of my time designing and building electronic circuits and various gizmos for other folks - great fun!

dave


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Re shorting.
What's wrong with the old solution of using a diode to shut off forward power but allow a train to reverse out of the siding? Put it across a gap near the entry to the siding.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Re hour meters.
My boat has those. They track how many hours my generator has been running. I bet there's a 24V version as boats sometimes use 24V.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Lots on eBay - DC Hour Meter


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

> What about one of those camera-on-a-stick things that auto parts stores sell for looking into tight spaces... sort of like a bore scope? They have a small screen attached... you could leave space between to ties to get the camera portion under the train and then slowly drive over.


Sheeesh! I just get home from my colonoscopy and I gotta read this.

JackM


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Just think Jack, if you had read this before going to see the doctor, you could have stopped off at the auto parts store and saved yourself a bunch of money.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

JackM said:


> Sheeesh! I just get home from my colonoscopy and I gotta read this.
> 
> JackM


Just don't ask where that used "bore scope" has been


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

JackM said:


> Sheeesh! I just get home from my colonoscopy and I gotta read this.
> 
> JackM


 I get a colonoscopy every three years and since they put me out I never gave it much thought.

This year I had a cystoscopy and had the fun of watching the procedure live on a TV.

Colonoscopy and cystoscopy. I wonder when a young doctor decides that's what he wants to specialize in and how he chooses one over the other?

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

dbodnar said:


> Hi, Jerry - The talking volt meter is not too tough a project to get working but
> 1. Would you want many voltage ranges (ie 0-2 volts, 0-20 volts, 0-200 volts)
> 2. AC and DC?
> 3 What accuracy? Speaking out a voltage to 10ths or 100ths of a volt would slow down information transfer
> ...


Hi Dave,

Your mind never ceases to amaze me. I won't pretend to understand 99% of how you do what you do.

The purpose of the talking voltmeter would be to alert the operator to a voltage change significant enough that it would signify a poor connection or other problem causing loss of power to the locomotive.

As an example I had an F-1ABBA pulling 11 lighted streamliners that, depending on the conductivity of the rails, would draw up to 12 Amps.

The train would have to be moving so I would guess a starting voltage of around 5 V and a maximum of 24 V.

The readout would have to be either continuous or triggered by a drop in voltage of perhaps one volt.

As for verbose I would think a simple "12 Volts" or whatever would be sufficient. Even a simple "Ding" would be better than what we have now.

I would think a readout in full volts would be sufficient to identify a problem. For me simple detection of a change in volts would be more important than the accuracy of the measurement.

Lights at night or a sound system during the day can sometimes work to indicate a problem but a voltage readout would be far more beneficial. It would in affect say *"right here is where your problem is."*

Considering that MTS is limited to 5 amps and the old Ultima only put out 10 amps, I think the increase to today's 15 to 25 amp power supplies indicates there may be a market for something like a talking voltmeter.

While analog track power would be probably be the primary market, if not difficult, compatibility with MTS/DCC and DCS might be desirable for some people 

* "If you take this assignment" * I would probably be your first customer. 

Cheers,

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*Coupler Adapters?*

Whether by design or whatever the one thing that has probably been the most annoying for me over the years has been the incompatibility of ALL the brands of couplers.

Of course everyone wants you to buy nothing but their brand of locos and rolling stock but when the height of a USAT F3 hook & loop coupler does not match the height of Brand X hook & loop coupler things really seemed unreasonable to me. What could be more "standard" than the height above the track of a hook & loop coupler - especially since USAT and LGB hook & loop couplers look as if they came out of the same mold!!!

What compounds this is that Aristo freight car tongues are too short to fit LGB couplers without an overall short tongue (a proper fit would put the end of the coupler under the axles with a friction fit).

It is also upsetting to me (and a deal closer) to discover items on eBay or elsewhere with truck tongues that have been cut to fit Kadee couplers. I always pass on buying anything with a cut tongue. Of course everyone has a right to do whatever they want to their own property.

I wish some clever person or company could design, build and sell an adapter that would use an LGB tongue height and length as a standard (after all they created this market and owned it for many years). If they could then create an adapter that would adapt Aristo and other brands height and length to accept LGB couplers I would buy it.

On the other hand someone could do the opposite and adapt LGB tongues to fit Aristo and or other brands. Even then the height over the track could be a problem.

Perhaps the solution would be to offer just the part of the truck that contains the tongue (without the wheels and sides) which could be re-used with the new tongue etc.

This is where someone usually says "Kadee" but for me anyway, body mount is not an option and Kadees simply do not come anywhere close to matching the ability to couple, uncouple and stay coupled of LGB couplers.

For every item I have that Kadee makes a coupler for there is at least one (and probably more) that Kadee does not make a coupler for (like an Accucraft/AML 0-6-0 or an AML stock car.

Does anyone else think there might be a market for this?

I don't know if copyrights and patents would prevent this or not.

Jerry


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