# Help me with my first G scale train!!



## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Hello everybody!


I recently joined the world of large scale, when i bought a 1994 LGB 72905 set. The person i bought the set from said she only used the train during the Christmas season to run around her Christmas tree during a couple years after she bought it, and then the set was stored until now.

When it got to my home everythin worked flawlessly for 2 days, e run rhe trains for considerable amount of time without problems.

But yesterday when i was running the train it suddenly stopped, and the power pack (model 5003) stopped working. After some time it went back working. And then after this happened a few times, i realized that the circuit breaker was acting, hearinf the click on the power pack.

So i started testing it with and amperimeter, and it was drawing almost 4 amps ay maximum power even disconnected from the tracks, and disarmig this way as well.

So i need help if anyone know what could be wrong it the transfomer and how could i fix it. 

If cannot be fixed its ok to use Frateschi HO scale 16v DC transformer? I know i wont get fullspeed with this but never fo fullspeed anyway.

Please note that i live in Brasil and here its almost impossible findig LGB material.

Sorry for my english and Thanks for the help!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

When it was disconnected from the track it drew 4 amps?


What wiring did you have connected so you could measure 4 amps?


With no trains no current should flow... did you connect the ammeter across the output terminals?


Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Since the 5003/110 is a 7 va unit, I find it hard to believe 4 amps was drawn even for a short time.
One common problem with the older Stainz engine is the smoke control is a metal tab at the bottom of the smoke stack and can cause a short in the engine if not directly on the bottom middle of the stack, and it should never touch the nut as the nut is one rail and the tab is the other rail on this engine.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> When it was disconnected from the track it drew 4 amps?
> 
> 
> What wiring did you have connected so you could measure 4 amps?
> ...


Hello Greg

Yes, i connected the amperimeter direct to the controller output, with no trains or track, and it drew almost 4Amps, and then the circuit breaker acted. I could feel it getting hot and that Zzzzz noise inside the power pack.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Dan Pierce said:


> Since the 5003/110 is a 7 va unit, I find it hard to believe 4 amps was drawn even for a short time.
> One common problem with the older Stainz engine is the smoke control is a metal tab at the bottom of the smoke stack and can cause a short in the engine if not directly on the bottom middle of the stack, and it should never touch the nut as the nut is one rail and the tab is the other rail on this engine.



Hello Dan...this makes sense because the problem started when i was messing with that switch. So im sending a foto of that, could you say me where it should be? What is that nut you mentioned?
Thanks!


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

hello neighbour!
i'm in the paraguayan chaco.
welcome to the pleasures of largescaling in south america!
(an eternal search for alternative repuestos)

if your controler is not working, i can't tell you anything. but it is ok to use the Frateschi HO scale 16v DC transformer for a Stainz, if it has more than 1 Amp. (i am using a Fleischmann controler without problems)
computer powerpacks work as well (without speed variations)

your pic:

either put the pin on the center of the contact and put some(little) lampoil into the smokestack (then it should smoke, if it is not burned out by running dry or by shortcircuit) or put it well to the side to touch plastic only.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

kormsen said:


> hello neighbour!
> i'm in the paraguayan chaco.
> welcome to the pleasures of largescaling in south america!
> (an eternal search for alternative repuestos)
> ...


Hello neighbour!

Thanks for the reply!

Its really hard to find large scale items down here. I guess Paraguai is easier than Brasil because of your country importing taxes policies. Here if i order something from abroad, if the order is more than U$50 it will be surely confiscated by taxes police, and than ill have to pay 100% taxes...sad but true.

About the smoke stack, i actually put some johnsonn baby oil (thats what i had and a read it worked in the internet), but nothing happened.

Im guessing i have put the switch in short circuit position and with that i spoiled my transformer...


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

https://youtu.be/KE2XXCji_qs 

This video shows my train running well right before it stopped for the first time. I dont know if that matter but that was a hot day, about 35C, and the transformer was really hot sitting on the grass (in the shadow).

I now cleaned all the track and locomotive wheels and contacts and the train seem to work, but only until the speeed 2. If i put more throttle than that the circuit breaker acts.

Thanks everyone!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So, you CANNOT connect an amp meter across the output of a power supply, that creates an instant short.


You ONLY connect an amp meter in series with a load, like a loco.


So, put the amp meter in series with one of the track leads, run the loco and note the current.


Really sounds like the motor is running too much current, and that can happen and the motor still functions.


Greg


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> So, you CANNOT connect an amp meter across the output of a power supply, that creates an instant short.
> 
> 
> You ONLY connect an amp meter in series with a load, like a loco.
> ...


Hello Greg

Thanks for your answer.

Im sending a foto could you help me with the wiring so i can measure the current?

I must have done wrog. When measuring the loco dont move right?

I have switched off the smoke stack and the loco stopped at speed 2+ the same way!

Daniel


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

HEY!

looking at your pic, i see you got an north american powerpack.
do you use an transformer? (230 to 110)

as far as i know, Brazil has 230 volt? while the grey LGB powerpacks have 110 volt.
only the red LGB powerpacks are for 230 volt.

edit: (i pay about 35% additional for tax and transport - and wait between 3 and 20 weeks for parts from europe or north america)


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

kormsen said:


> HEY!
> 
> looking at your pic, i see you got an north american powerpack.
> do you use an transformer? (230 to 110)
> ...


Hello my friend!

Brasil has 110v or 220v depending on the region of the country. Here were i live is 110v so the power pack is correct. 

So bummer my train wont working properly..

Daniel...


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The long silver tab (SMOKE ON-OFF SWITCH) can not allowed to touch the nut on the bottom of the smoke stack!! This will create a short on the track/power supply. The silver bar must be on the small brass hole to get smoke working, or not touching anything!!


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Dan Pierce said:


> The long silver tab (SMOKE ON-OFF SWITCH) can not allowed to touch the nut on the bottom of the smoke stack!! This will create a short on the track/power supply. The silver bar must be on the small brass hole to get smoke working, or not touching anything!!


Thank you very much. I now know how to operate the smoke switch. But unfortunately that was not the problem as the power pack keeps circuit breaking if i put the throttle in the position 2 or higher, no matter the smoke stack is on or off.

My engine seems to ride a bit "clinging", so should i lubricate it, and where? Axles, gearboxes? Could i use Singer sewing machine oil? ( i use that for my ho models)

Thanks is advance!

Daniel


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

_Could i use Singer sewing machine oil?_

i use it since 1983.


edit: why don't you connect your H0 transformer to the train, just to see, if the loco runs better?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I need to keep trying to get the idea of isolate the problem first.


did you measure the amperage with the train running yet?


when you do, then remove the loco from the track, put it on it's back with wheels in the air, and connect track power again and measure current.


If still high, I would remove the motor and measure by itself.



If the current is excessive, it's more likely a damaged motor or mechanical binding as opposed to lubrication.


Greg


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

kormsen said:


> _Could i use Singer sewing machine oil?_
> 
> i use it since 1983.
> 
> ...


Havent done yet afraid of damaging something. But as the HO power is 16v max should be no problem, right? I'll get it done as soon as i get home today.

Thanks


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I need to keep trying to get the idea of isolate the problem first.
> 
> 
> did you measure the amperage with the train running yet?
> ...


Im willing to do that test, but im not sure if i know how to wire the correct way. Could you please look at the photo and tell me if its right?

Also appear to be something loose inside the loco...i think its a weight. Is this normal?

Im going to test the locomotive upside down now!

Appreciate your help!!

Daniel


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, not correct.


so the current needs to go from one lead of the power pack, to one lead (say the red one) of the meter, and then the other lead (say black) goes to the track.


the other lead of the power pack goes directly to the track.


This way all the current that goes through the loco also must go through the meter.


Be sure you have the meter on amps, and in the right sockets.


You have the meter set to volts not amps... 



keep posting pictures, we will get it right



Greg


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

You might try viewing some of the *how to use a vom meter test for amps* videos to assist with this issue.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> OK, not correct.
> 
> 
> so the current needs to go from one lead of the power pack, to one lead (say the red one) of the meter, and then the other lead (say black) goes to the track.
> ...


Hello Greg

Thanks for the reply. Now i think i did it right. When measuring, the locomotive dont move, right? Im sending a photo.

The measurements were:

Locomotive on track
Speed 1 - 0.60 amps
Speed 2 - 1.15 amps
Speed 3 - 1.46amps
Speed 4 - reached 1.96 and trafo circuit breaked

I must measure with locomotive upside down now, but i know it stops the same way


I also shot a video of the locomotive running upside down..it shows the transformer circuit breakig. Could be my impression but i hear a lot of dragging noise. I dont think this machine was ever lubricated after it left the factory.

Here is the video:

https://youtu.be/9YGSS298PG8

Also noted that only one wheel has a rubber band tire. Is it like this or the other wheels lost theirs? It was covered with some sort of oil but i cleaned it

Thanks!

Daniel




T


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

**** Habilis said:


> You might try viewing some of the *how to use a vom meter test for amps* videos to assist with this issue.


Thanks that helped me a lot!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

wiring looks right, but the loco should have moved... but the circuit breaker tripped at about 2 amps which is expected.


That loco should only draw about 1/2 amp to move when not pulling anything... so something is very wrong.


Seems there is a short if the motor does not turn at all.


Greg


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## RkyGriz (Feb 14, 2019)

Hi , Daniel. I watched your video. The cat seemed to be enjoying the train,too. Look closely at the wheel. There is a groove on it.The rubber band is used as traction tire (or tyre). It is there to provide extra traction for your locomotive. These need to be replaced from time to time. Be sure to check it for cracks before running this train too much,and replace it as needed. I don't know how much it will cost you, but I buy practically everything for my trains on Ebay, or onlytrains.com. Another train site that is used by a lot of guys is trainli.com You could contact them with your model number ,and they may be able set you up with the right replacement part ,if needed.
As to oil, most manufacturers recommend a plastic compatible lubricant to use with your loco. I like Labelle products(if you can find them locally,or order, and import them, to Brasil.), which I have used for over 10 years now with no problems. The sewing machine oil may work, it may not, but it is better than nothing if you can't find lubricants that are made for trains. 

I have an LGB 2-6-0 Mogul. I remove the bottom plate ,and lubricate the internal gearing, and axle shafts using Labelle 106 grease for the gears, and Labelle 107 medium weight oil for the axle shafts, and all other moving parts.
I highly recommend the Labelle products(If you can find,or order, them. It's sure a tough break that you get such high import taxes where you live!).
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about your particular LGB,but the lubrication method is likely similar to the Mogul. 

I hope this was helpful, and I hope that you find the solution to your electrical issue soon!
Take care!


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Also made a video of measurements with the loco upside down...here is a video of it!

https://youtu.be/K1ibWZIvHqk

If its drawing more than 1 amp, its wrong is that it? As the power pack is 1 amp


I have discovered that the starter set box makes excellent upside down test bench! lol

Daniel


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> wiring looks right, but the loco should have moved... but the circuit breaker tripped at about 2 amps which is expected.
> 
> 
> That loco should only draw about 1/2 amp to move when not pulling anything... so something is very wrong.
> ...


Thank tou Greg...i typed that about the motor stop running when testing before i made the correct wiring, please do not consider.

Above i posted a video of a test with the loco upside down.

So it is actually drawing lots of current, if i got it right, it should never exceed 1 amp even with the 2 cars that come in the set, right? 

Daniel


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

RkyGriz said:


> Hi , Daniel. I watched your video. The cat seemed to be enjoying the train,too. Look closely at the wheel. There is a groove on it.The rubber band is used as traction tire (or tyre). It is there to provide extra traction for your locomotive. These need to be replaced from time to time. Be sure to check it for cracks before running this train too much,and replace it as needed. I don't know how much it will cost you, but I buy practically everything for my trains on Ebay, or onlytrains.com. Another train site that is used by a lot of guys is trainli.com You could contact them with your model number ,and they may be able set you up with the right replacement part ,if needed.
> As to oil, most manufacturers recommend a plastic compatible lubricant to use with your loco. I like Labelle products(if you can find them locally,or order, and import them, to Brasil.), which I have used for over 10 years now with no problems. The sewing machine oil may work, it may not, but it is better than nothing if you can't find lubricants that are made for trains.
> 
> I have an LGB 2-6-0 Mogul. I remove the bottom plate ,and lubricate the internal gearing, and axle shafts using Labelle 106 grease for the gears, and Labelle 107 medium weight oil for the axle shafts, and all other moving parts.
> ...


Thanks for the reply!

I found this rubber tire but only one wheel has it. All whells were supposed to have one?

As for labelle's oil, i keep hearing modelers from abroad talking about it, but im afraid i cannot find it downhere, so i must go for other similar product...

Im a little bit nervous about opening the engine as i have never did with a LGB, but thats my inevitable fate.

I really wish that the issue its lack of lubrication or mechanichal, something that i can fix or replace, because if it is a dying motor, bye bye G scale dream for a while...

Thanks!
Daniel


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

DanielBrasil said:


> Havent done yet afraid of damaging something. But as the HO power is 16v max should be no problem, right? I'll get it done as soon as i get home today.
> 
> Thanks


if that H0 powerpack is not older than 60 years, it should have a breaker.
so no damage.

lubrification:
for gears i don't use oil, but vaselina paste.

but, oil or vaselina, LGBs do not need much. half a drop every ten years or so is enough.
(if you overdo it, everything starts catching dust and dirt)

if/when you start taking out your motor, be carefull. some Stainz-models have very small steelballs, where the motor axletips are lying in the motorbox.
they are easy to loose, and hard to find replacement.

edit: that is ok, only one wheel has to have the rubberband.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

kormsen said:


> DanielBrasil said:
> 
> 
> > Havent done yet afraid of damaging something. But as the HO power is 16v max should be no problem, right? I'll get it done as soon as i get home today.
> ...


Well i finally took courage to open the engine upside down, and this is what i found, the situation looks no good as the lubricant appears to be a jelly in useless places and the bearings itself are almost dry.

As you said about vaselina, thats something that i have at hand, so i might use it, and sewing oil at the rods and axles (little bits)

But what is the best way to remove and clean the old lubricant? Can i ise isopropil alcohol?

I will wait for you guys toughts before do something!

Thanks you Kormsen and everyone helping me!

Daniel


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You need plastic compatible greases, and I will have to disagree with Korm, as vaseline is "petroleum base jelly"... maybe it will not damage the LGB plastic, but it will damage others for sure. 



Can you purchase from Amazon? (not making a joke)


Greg


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Greg Elmassian said:


> You need plastic compatible greases, and I will have to disagree with Korm, as vaseline is "petroleum base jelly"... maybe it will not damage the LGB plastic, but it will damage others for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes Greg, i can purchase from Amazon. But amazon rainforest, not Amazon US 

Im kidding, i can buy from Amazon Brasil, but they dont have many products Amazon US has

But what was you going to suggest me? Maybe i can find similar

Anyway i still think there something stucking the engine, its turning with difficult. I removed some hair and dirty from the axles but saw no improvement.

i must measure the current the motor alone, disconnected from bearigs is drawing, Seems a little complicated but i´ll have to try..

Hope my motor is not dying...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, you are right, I searched Amazon Brazil for oil and the closest I could get was car oil filter wrenches.


I would look for an automotive oil, like Mobil 1 synthetic, virtually all synthetic motor oils are plastic compatible, as well as the synthetic greases. 



The car oil will be 5 weight in most cases, use for bearings, and grease on gears. 



Greg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> but im not sure if i know how to wire the correct way.


Just repeating what Greg said but a different way.

The meter replaces one of the wires to the track. So disconnect one wire from the track and connect it to one of the meter wires. Connect the other back to the track where you unhooked the track feed.

Set the meter to AMPS and make sure the meter wires are in the right sockets.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Daniel,
i agree, if you can get that stuff, that Greg mentiones, that would be better.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I figure he has a better chance of finding oil for a car as opposed to oil for a model train.. also, it will be very inexpensive, 1 liter of oil will last a lifetime.


Greg


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Thanks Greg and everyone for the oil tips (not kidding)! I'll get some of those.

Yesterday i tried to open the motor housing, but i could only access it from below, where the gears are. I really dont whant to remove the wheels and gears from this place to access the motor, because im afraid getting the alignment of wheels and rods wrong and spoiling my loco forever. From this point i could remove some of the old grease and i regret that, that made the dragging increase and now i can only put the throttle in position 1, more than that the engine draws more than 1 amp and the transformer breaks circuit.


My question is, can i access the motor from above? I saw in the exploded view there is a cover to the motor house above it, but i could not access this cover because there is a screw holding the boiler wich i could not get to it.

Also, reading other sources, im pretty sure i contaminated my motor with Johnson baby oil when i filled the smoke stack, as the problem began when i did this. 

So i'll problably have to romeve the engine and clean it, but how? I want to do this without messing with the wheels, rods and gears.

Thanks everyone again!

Daniel

Ps: my StainZ is model 24171 (americanized circus stainz)


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Ok so i finally could get to open the motor house and remove it. The good news is that there is no sign of baby oil on it. The bad news is that i tested the motor withoout load outside the loco and it draws 1.5 amps @ speed 2, and circuit breaks. Acts the same way as it was mounted.

I saw a lot o old grease could this be the dragging issue?

Im annexing pictures so you guys can see what i found

Thanks!

Daniel


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If the motor shaft turns freely, then either you have:


damaged brushes (incorrectly contacting commutator or shorting inside)

shorted (partially) windings (they usually still function somewhat but draw far more current)


Notice the ball bearing on the end, that limits the motor shaft travel, be sure to keep it if you get an identical replacement motor.


Newer motors do not require the ball bearing(s).


It really appears your motor is shot and you must order a replacement one.


Greg


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Thank you very much Greg and every on else who helped me detecting the problem and getting more familiar with LGB.

Before i wonder how could i buy a new motor, i'll try to fix/clean this one, hope i can do something. Its not working anyway, so i have nothing to lose trying.

Sooner or later my Stainz will be up and running again!!

Again, thanks!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The old LGB motors with the red and black brush holders are easy to 'clean/fix) sometimes.
I use an exacto knife to clean between the copper on the armature. I then put a tiny drop of oil on the outside of the motor on the shaft. Then I assemble it and place power and wait for the brushes to settle, takes less than a minute. Now the motor should only draw 1/4 amp when running with no load. If over 1/2 amp then it is still bad.


On the newer sealed motors, oiling the ends helps, but be careful to just use 1 tiny drop!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Small clarification, use the x-acto blade to clean between the segments in the commutator, but don't dig too deep, actually best to snap the sharp tip off so you have more of a small scraper to clean built up carbon from the grooves.


a much larger motor, but will give you the idea:


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

I think i got it!! I took out the brush holders, as you can see they were pretty dirty, full of oil and dust i guess. 

I cleaned them with isopropil alcohol, and the commutator the slots.

I basically followed this tutorial, but used alcohol instead of brake fluid:

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/lgb-motor-service.163076/

In my opinion isopropyl alcohol is better because its dry faster than brake fluid.

Then reassembled the motor and made the test, ist drawing 0.33 amps @speed 2 unmounted.

Before it was drawing 1.6amps @ this same speed, also out of the gearbox!

Of course i still have to reassemble the loco and see the amperage it takes riding, but i think that solved the problem!!

So, again, thanks everyone here who helped me out, without you i was never going to make it!

Daniel

EDIT: I made further cleanig to the spaces between the comutator slots with a sharp blade and now ist drawing only 0.13 amps @ speed 2!! I think thats a fix!!!


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

congrats! now to get started on a layout!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great, once started, it was not actually difficult to isolate it to the motor itself. The commutator cleaning can surprise people, but consider the gaps between segments can be packed with carbon, clearly that "wastes" power, by sending power to more than the desired commutator segments.


Greg


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

DanielBrasil said:


> I think i got it!! I took out the brush holders, as you can see they were pretty dirty, full of oil and dust i guess.
> 
> I cleaned them with isopropil alcohol, and the commutator the slots.
> 
> ...


i am nearly 50 years into largescale. but i never took apart a motor. so you surpassed me already!

congrats to your victory over the dirt!


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

Once more thanks guys!

Well, now that its fixed and im in love with G scale, im in the quest trying to find trackage to sell downhere.

I found none in Brasil, only @ebay coming from abroad, and interestingly the freight from germany is 1/4 cheaper than from USA.

Daniel


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

you could try, what i did.

search for bigger toy shops, that sell playmobil.

they might have unsold brass track somewhere hidden in their deposits, from some decades ago, when playmobil sold trains with LGB-made track and turnouts.
i don't remember exactly the number, but i bought some hundreds of 30cm track, mostly curved, some crossings and turnouts. the track for a dollar a piece.

take them all! to bend the R1 curves into gentlier curves or straights is really easy.

the other possibility are curtain-rails. a little bit louder, a little bit uglier, but cheap!!






























edit:

i forgot: if they have any cars or locos left, take them too.
they are ideal for making your own model cars! (and the locos are nearly as good, as LGB, just more toy-like.)

and, yes. us postage is forbidding to buy from there.
there is a guy in holland, where i have bought new and used items.

https://www.grootspoor.com/nl/


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## RkyGriz (Feb 14, 2019)

That's a great suggestion! He's right: the Playmobile trains,while they very much look like toys, seem to be very robust ,and look to me to be very well made. I imagine that they would be great for kitbashing, if you're willing to put the work, and time, into doing something like that.
I build models of cars,ships, planes,trains, and Science Fiction vessels (my current project is a model in 1/350 scale of the Starship Enterprise from Star Trek-The Motion Picture. It will have full lighting and Aztec detailing when complete), so doing projects like what he proposed are fun, as far as I'm concerned.
And fun is what this hobby is all about!
Good luck with your trains.And ,most of all,have FUN!
Andrew


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Daniel;

Just as an example, some photos of a Playmobil double tip dump car I did some kitbashing on:



























Best,
David Meashey
P.S. The last photo was taken on a friend's layout. He has since passed away, and his layout has been removed.


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## RkyGriz (Feb 14, 2019)

Those look great,Dave! Sorry to hear about your friend!
Andrew


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

I would like to thank everyone about the trackage and playmobil rolling stock/locomotives tips.

I've searched for playmobil trains and trackage, but seems that those itens are kind of rare and expensive now. I only found here in Brasil one guy selling a complete playmobil western train, but hes asking too much for the set. He has about 20 pieces of straight track and a complete circle, and dont wanna sell his straights apart.

But i could see that this train is nothing but a "playmobil like LGB", the loco is a toy Stainz and the car is a reproduction of the traditional LGB passenger car. 

So i can only imagine that this playmobil train was made in partnership with LGB.

The best option i found so far is buying @ ebay from a guy in Germany. He is asking 32 euros for a set of 12 30cm straights.

As soon as i can buy some straight trackage i will set up a small layout at my farm house!

Thanks everyone once more!


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

DanielBrasil said:


> I would like to thank everyone about the trackage and playmobil rolling stock/locomotives tips.
> 
> I've searched for playmobil trains and trackage, but seems that those itens are kind of rare and expensive now. I only found here in Brasil one guy selling a complete playmobil western train, but hes asking too much for the set. He has about 20 pieces of straight track and a complete circle, and dont wanna sell his straights apart.
> 
> ...


I am sitting atop a pile of R1 curves, switches, and some straights...figure out the international shipping thing I might just box em up and ship them to you...


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

ThinkerT said:


> DanielBrasil said:
> 
> 
> > I would like to thank everyone about the trackage and playmobil rolling stock/locomotives tips.
> ...


Hello ThinkerT!

I accept that with great gratitude, and i'll be really glad to receive those. They will be really usefull and i will share every progress i make! It sucks to live in a country where one cannot fibd stuff to buy.

Thank you very much, and i will pm you about that, so i can get details and arrange the shipment, ok?

I've already started something with what i have. Today was a very nice day doing that!

Tomorrow i will try to level the roadbed better and put some ballast, hoping to run the train!

Daniel


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Daniel Brasil -

Sent your package off today via USPS. Should be there in a week or ten days. Hope you like it.

Suppose next I'll have to put together a package for Korm...


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i apreciate that thought. thank you.
but the only "thing", i am needing, is energy/health to combine all my junk into a layout.
getting old is a bitch...


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

kormsen said:


> i appreciate that thought. thank you.
> but the only "thing", i am needing, is energy/health to combine all my junk into a layout.
> getting old is a bitch...


yes, getting old sucks.

Been putting in scenery on my layout for the past couple years. With the addition of 'Thorn Mountain' this last spring (a linchpin piece) I am faced with the disturbing possibility i might actually be able to 'finish' the layout. 

Still, I have an abundance of more or less scale figures if you're interested: angry mobs, astronauts, aliens, monsters, old time types, superheroes, victims, zombies, and more!


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

ThinkerT said:


> yes, getting old sucks.
> 
> .... I am faced with the disturbing possibility i might actually be able to 'finish' the layout.


what a horrible thought!
i am "working" for the last ten or twelve years on my fourth big layout.
but even, if i would speed up from 'snail' to 'turtle', i can be sure, that the building site will survive me.
when i planned it, i calculated about six years. now i've done about one and a half years worth. (at first firefighting took up too much time, and now BS-ing on the forums is all, i can bring myself to do.)




> Still, I have an abundance of more or less scale figures if you're interested: angry mobs, astronauts, aliens, monsters, old time types, superheroes, victims, zombies, and more!


yeah, your wild combinations of all kind of figures has made me smile more than once.
one of the few things i really did in the last years was 3D printing figures.
(some of the - less than perfect - results, i published over there on LSC under 'figures'.)
now the materials to copy and cast figures and figure-parts wait for a fit of activity...

if and when that fit has hit me, i will come back to your offer for some special figures to copy.

ps:
sorry, Daniel, for derailing your thread.


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

ThinkerT said:


> Daniel Brasil -
> 
> Sent your package off today via USPS. Should be there in a week or ten days. Hope you like it.
> 
> Suppose next I'll have to put together a package for Korm...



Thank you very much!! 

cant wait for it to get here, and so i can expand my layout! my train will be very happy, as he said he is tired of running in circles 

As son as i receive i will post pictures of the "unboxing" 

Once more thank you

Daniel


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## DanielBrasil (Oct 19, 2019)

kormsen said:


> what a horrible thought!
> i am "working" for the last ten or twelve years on my fourth big layout.
> but even, if i would speed up from 'snail' to 'turtle', i can be sure, that the building site will survive me.
> when i planned it, i calculated about six years. now i've done about one and a half years worth. (at first firefighting took up too much time, and now BS-ing on the forums is all, i can bring myself to do.)
> ...


No problem, this thread is more than railled, i ended up winnng a bunch o track! 

Ps: Tahnks again ThinkerT


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Daniel Brasil - check your PM's. Sent you one, not sure if it made it to you.


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