# Aristo Craft Consolidation



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Has anyone attempted to lower the boiler on one of the Aristo Craft Consolidations?

If so, how about some before and after pics along with how you did the modification.

I'd love to have a 2-8-0 on my roster, but cannot stand the high boiler look of the current model.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy;

Not sure whether you are referring to the standard gauge Consolidation or the Delton Classic C16. I think that there have been articles on lowering the C16. Perhaps you can find one or more of them with a good search engine.

As for the standard gauge locomotive, I think the prototype was built during the period when steam locomotives actually did have quite a bit of "daylight" between the bottom of the boiler barrel and the top of the frame. There was quite a lively discussion about the "daylight" in one of our forums a few years back. Supporting photos of the prototype were shown as evidence that the model locomotive was authentic. Later Consolidations, like the Reading RR's I10sb, had huge girth of the boiler barrel, but the Aristo prototype predates that era.

You may find it easier to bash an Aristo Pacific boiler onto that 2-8-0 chassis than it is to lower the existing boiler.

Just my $0.02,
David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

To back up Dave, the model is accurate. 
I'm guessing better vision as cars grew. 

The old C-16 were lowered but the new drive might be trickier. 

John


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

If the C-16 is the subject..check on Fletches page for directions... 
He did a lot of lowered boilers on the C-16. 

Dirk


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

K....looked at Consolidation ..2-8-0...on RLD's page 

It is a modern loco..has lots of open air space above drivers.... 

So ..Rand...you'll need to do research first on full scale loco to see what is what. 
Other wise I might be tempted to make side fillers to stop open air look.. 
But again..depends on a real one!! 

You can do it!!! 

Dirk


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

Perhaps you could just add some details under the footboard Randy.
Air tanks and air/steam lines can hide that "open air" space you talk about. I haven't done much with the Undec. one I got a couple years ago, but may try something before I decal it and silver the smoke box. I'll keep you in mind when I do so and send you some pic.s of the mod. job. It would save a ton of work rather than lowering the boiler and cab. I'll bump it up on the list. Right now mine is sitting in the loco shop, which also needs to be finished too.

Rocky


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

I think once you run it and see it on it's side most of the time you won't be worried about how low it sits.


Boo


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Yep, you just need some junk under there and all will look right.

























Andrew


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I was talking the Standard Gage Newer Steam Locomotive. Yes, I know there was a thread a while back regarding the boiler being high above the drivers. and yes I know the Aristo Craft Consolidation has a real prototype. But, I don't like the looks of the high up boiler and was wanting to know if anyone has tried lowering the boiler on their Consolidation. I really like the looks of the 557 below, but it looks to have a bigger round boiler and maybe even bigger dia drivers.


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

I Concure with Randy, Depsite the correct height boiler/daylight gap look, the loco is none the less raised above where it should be, even for the specific prototype. What Randy is asking to do is to keep the superstructure, keep the cylinders and saddle excactly as-is, and push the chassis up into the works a bit more so that the piston centreline is level with wheel centre. This means the whole superstructure needs to be lowered down over the chassis by about 1/4". Currently the piston centreline of this new SG 2-8-0 is again well above wheel centre, which is plain wrong....man what is it about Aristo and 1/4" push-ups! Same problem on the older C-16, and when they re-powered the Aristo Pacific, they raised the front end up by 1/4"! Making the running boards run uphill to the front and lifting the pilot well above the rail head. Piston centreline well above drive wheel centre at the front driver. FA was raised up..half the old rolling freight stock was raised up..go figure. 

On the Pacific, the 6 wheel driver unit is bolted into the bottom of the boiler via 4 plastic pillars. All you had to do was grind off 1/4" from the two front pillars, allowing the front end to bolt closer to the boiler, this lowered the front end back to level, put the piston line back in line with the wheels, lowered the pilot back down to proper level of rail, levelled the running boards and returned the look of the tapered boiler to a taper, rather than level across the top. 

I suspect the new 2-8-0 8 wheel block is attached to the superstructure in a similar way, via 4 fixing points - two at the front and two under the ash-pan. Take a look at those fixings and see if you can grind them back 1/4" so you can screw the block back in at a point 1/4" closer to the boiler. This will then bring the wheels level with the piston centreline and then the thing will look right, even to its B&O roots. 

David.


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Dash-9 was high as well, but that was said to be that way because they modeled it after a engine that was empty of fuel ?????

Ha........I do enjoy large scale so.

Boo


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Garratt on 31 Jan 2014 02:57 PM 
Yep, you just need some junk under there and all will look right.

























Andrew 

I thought our junk hung low?


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy; 

That Alaska RR Consolidation may have been purchased from the US Army. I think there is a similar locomotive at Cass. These locomotives were more "hunkered down," as they were intended for service in Europe near the end of, and after WWII. They had to fit through European and British loading gauge clearances. Looks like the Alaska RR added the bell and electric generator after they took over the locomotive, as they set higher than the sand dome. (Well, it's actually more like a sand "boil" or sand "rash.") 

Anyway, several lucky railroads were able to get these Consolidations as "Army Surplus." They are neat and distinctive looking locomotives. 

Best, 
David Meashey


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Yeah David, looking at the prototype image, the model does look a little higher. The image above has a taller stack too. As you said, the consolidation model is about 1/4 inch or so too high above the piston center line. From what I can see without pulling one apart there are 2 mounting pillars under the cab that look easy to trim and it appears there is enough room for the motor to sit higher under the cab floor. There is a mounting block that extends down as a part of the boiler molding that incorporates two pillars where the motor block is mounted at the front just behind the boiler saddle. The pillars also look as if they could be trimmed. The pilot is mounted on a short pillar below the same mounting block that would need shortening. The bottom of the front of the firebox skirt would need trimming so the motor block can sit up into it. A 1/4 inch lowering would leave the cow catcher practically on the rails but it can easily be raised from the front strap mount screws.

MLS - Aristo US Army Consoldation photo  











Andrew


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy,
You may just have to go for it. On mine I wanted an S.P. look. Not rivet counter quality but what was reasonable to do. I did have the wheels turned by a machinist friend to give the flanges a better profile which improved the running 100%.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah, my friend Jerry reminded me this morning of the wheel problem. Everyone needs to understand, I am not a rivet counter. I just like what I like looks wise. I'm currently working on a kit bash I started almost a year ago and after letting it sit for 10 months, I just recently started working on it again. So until it is completed, the Consolidation will have to wait. I was hoping someone else had already done the modification to see if it was even worth buying one and trying to lower it. I googled the 557 and found that the 557 class USATC S160 has 57 inch drivers. What is the size of the drivers on the Aristo Craft Consolidation? They look small, but maybe that is due to the boiler setting high.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy, 
Same drivers as their mallet and Mikado.


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Posted By Paul Burch on 01 Feb 2014 09:11 AM 
Randy, 
Same drivers as their mallet and Mikado. Actually not the "same" driver but the same size, for some odd reason Aristo went off the rails with the Consolidation drivers.
Wheel dimensions and mounting taper are off the hook. This is the reason they didn't sell well was because of the derailment issues.

Boo


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Guys; 

Another observation about Alaskan RR No. 557. Notice how the cylinders are canted inboard of the steam chests, whereas on locomotive 2718 the cylinders are directly below the steam chests. Again I suppose that the difference for No. 557 was due to the need to clear European loading gauges. This group of military 2-8-0s were built special to operate over European railways, so they tend to look more squat than locomotives that were only intended for the North American continent. 

I still think they look pretty neat. 

Yours, 
David Meashey


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Only deifference in the wheel was the insert for the axle. I have one loco with the new wheel and one I used the old wheels. Both look and perform great after having them turned.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi Paul, 

Is there a coating or plating that gets "cut" by having the wheels turned? 

Thx. ... Dirk


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Dirk 
Yes, there is a little copper color showing through. I think they plate the wheel with copper and then the final plating. Doesn't really matter to me since I'm battery powereed. I wish there was a way on this website to show how well these run. If Aristo had just listened.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

A plating of copper is common as copper will stick to pot metal and then the harder metals will stick to the copper when they wouldn't to the base metal. 
If the treads are tapered, the flanges will wear longer. 

John


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks John. I wasn't really sure that was the case when I posted.


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