# The Knackered Valley Railroad. Part 1. Roadbed



## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

*Digging the trench. * I fashioned a tool (left) to measure the roadbed depth . 4 " nominal. 2 " subroadbed, pavers, 2" final roadbed between the pavers. The tool on the right measures the width. 16 " where both sides are trimmed with pavers.









*Weedblock*. Next comes the weed block. It also runs up the sides of the trench. The pavers are holding down the weed block until I get the first layer of paver base in. The wire is low voltage cable that I place on top of the weedblock. This will provide electrical contact to several places on the railroad to minimize conductivity issues.










*First layer of paver base, tamping.* Now I add 2" of paver base and tamp down using my home made tamping tool. This will provide
a base for the pavers.










*Checking for level.* My railroad will be mostly flat so it is important to make sure everything is level in both directions. Good roadbed makes for good operation.










*Installing and aligning the pavers*. The track is temporarily placed on the roadbed so that the pavers may be aligned and tamped down.









*Final 2" layer of paver base*. As with the first, tamped down and checked for level.









*Final track placement.* Track is joined to previous section. A final layer of fine stone will eventually be added as ballast for appearance.









*Overview of finished corner treatment*. This area had the least "wiggle room" so it went down first.









Another view showing the various layers on the corner area. Missing is the final 2 " of paver base between the pavers.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looks interesting, I will be curious about the pavers base and how it handles the seasons. 
I'm more concerned with your S curve. General consensus here is to have a straight section (some say as long as your longest single piece of equipment, but I've cheated on that with no ills yet...) between your reversing curves. Longer equipment tends to have more overhang at the ends and side to side motion on car ends tweaks the couplers and can cause derailments. 
I run older shorter cars and have good luck with 12" sections of straight. Real railroads use easements (spirals) between curves, our toy track isn't as kind. 

Thanks for posting. 

John


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I too am aware of the perils of S curves. Trying to minimize their use but in a couple of areas it is hard to avoid. I will be running fairly short rolling stock (Bachmann 20-40' old style cars) and currently a Bachmann 4-6-0 and a Forney. One good thing about the roadbed construction is that it is not "bolted down" and can be rearranged if necessary.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good. I like the way the pavers look along side the tracks. It will no doubt keep the maint down. The pavers should be fine through the season changes. You mifght get a few here and their shifting. I have some spots where I used pavers with no issues. I get more frost heave around here (NW Jersey) 
What end of the island are you on? If its doable you should head to my place in June for our club meet. (3rd Saturday)


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

Hey Shawn. I used the pavers so I could mow the grass right up to the railway. Weedwacking is not an enjoyable task for me. I have used pavers of various sizes (the patio and walkways are made of pavers) so I expect some shifting. I am in Nassau County. 

Wayne


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Good job Wayne 
looks nice. 


The photos, does make me realize how much easier concrete roadbed is. A lot less work.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, but the other side of the coin is that he can easily change the track around, while you need a jackhammer. 

Each method has it's pro's and con's. 

I do think though that it's hard to say which is more work, making forms and levelling the forms and pouring concrete is no picnic either... he can level track with some more paver base. You need the jackhammer again. (if it needs levelling or grading) 

Regards, Greg


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

My back tells me that the trench method sure is a lot of work. I did about 6 feet yesterday and I am moaning somewhat today. However, humping bags of sand and concrete, renting a mixer, cleaning the mixer, etc. would not be a walk in the park either.
Two good ways to go. Flip a coin. Good point Greg about the jackhammer. I did dig most of the trenches late last year. The downside to that was that my backyard looked like a WWI battlefield during the off-season. May have to hold off soon while I wait for the fence guys to replace my fence. Sandy did a number on the old fence (it was due) but I can't complain seeing what others are going through.

Wayne


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 13 May 2013 09:17 PM 
Yep, but the other side of the coin is that he can easily change the track around, while you need a jackhammer. 

Each method has it's pro's and con's. 

I do think though that it's hard to say which is more work, making forms and levelling the forms and pouring concrete is no picnic either... he can level track with some more paver base. You need the jackhammer again. (if it needs levelling or grading) 

Regards, Greg 

No jack hammer, regular hammer, always makes it seem harder than it is. Very easy to change and add to. But this thread is not about me. I was just giving him a complement. 
I keep forgetting to watch every little thing I say,


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

After 6" of rain on Saturday I managed to get another 6 feet or so of roadbed and track down on Monday. I guess I have pretty good soil drainage since there were no puddles left in the previously dug trenches. After this I will probably just post progress updates with before and after pictures. I think everyone gets the point about how the roadbed is constructed.

At this point the KVRR bends around the back of a patio planter/bench. Those "forms" are actually 2" plastic slats from an old blind.









After the curve around the planter there is a straight section. That's the beginning of Ovatha Hill on the left. Actually my hills are nothing more that piles of "spoil" from digging the trenches. Eventually they will be landscaped and planted. Parts of an old stockade fence serve as a retaining wall until I can replace it with landscape blocks. The area on the right is built up 2" with dirt and will be a station area.









After the weed block the first 2" of paver base. Red stone is used for the non-roadbed areas. 









Pavers are then tamped down with a rubber mallet.









Final 2' of paver base tamped into place and leveled. The wood platform will be for the station building.









Track in place around the corner. I made sure that my longest piece of rolling stock (Jackson Sharp passenger cars) would clear the planter corner and then doubled the distance.









The station area with an Aristo passenger station. Platforms and other details to follow.









This is an overview of the area leading up to the corner and station area. Note the contrast between the dry and wet paver base. Next week flowers go into those beds and planters. You can see where I have started to reseed the grass in the previous construction areas.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Nice work. I appreciate seeing how others are doing things. Tho I live in Maryland, I occasionally visit the North Fork. Perhaps I could visit some day to see the finished masterpiece. 

Jerry


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