# DCC engine shorts



## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Hey everyone,
Just installed a esu lok sound xl chip in both an LGB engine with decoder type 2 board with a jumper and an xl chip in an Aristo FA1. Both run perfectly fine in Analog. When I place either engine on my layout (using digitrax with a 5 amp system) I get sounds and light as well as follows commands for sound. When I go to increase the throttle I instantly get a short. Do I need more power? I know its not antrack issue or atleast I assume so. The digitrax system will run an analog engine just fine and mind you that engine is a single truck with analog sound where as the other two engines are dual trucks with dcc. -Thanks in advance!-
Justin


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Almost sounds like the motor is not isolated from one of the track pickups.

Are you sure the motor leads only go to the decoder? Completely visually inspected?

This means LGB motor block has 4 wires not 3.

Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Almost sounds like the motor is not isolated from one of the track pickups.
> 
> Are you sure the motor leads only go to the decoder? Completely visually inspected?
> 
> ...


Yes completely isolated. I plugged into the port. Its a version 2 direct decoder board. I'm thinking of gutting the board and going straight esu xl. It runs on analog just fine. Shorts when on track or when I apply clips from the digitrax unit to one truck, it runs fine. I do have a cross over on my layout but it works fine when using an analog engine using digitrax in analog mode?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Something still seems to indicate a connection between one of the motor leads and the track pickup. 

If you leave the motor connected to the decoder, but disconnect the track power from the wheels and apply track power to the decoder only, that might help isolate the problem.

I appreciate the fact that using the socket may make this test impractical.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you set the switches to off on the LGB DC board? On is for DC, off for DCC when a decoder is added..


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Dan Pierce said:


> Did you set the switches to off on the LGB DC board? On is for DC, off for DCC when a decoder is added..


I will open it up and double check. Pretty sure I did but better to be safe than sorry. Thanks for all the help guys. -Justin-


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The best thing to do is ensure that the track pickups are isolated from the motor. Use a meter on ohms scale, and you will need to unplug the decoder. Since no pictures have been posted, I guess you could probe the connector and the wheels and the motor leads.

Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Confirming it all looks good? I know turn off the dip switches ? on my Aristo im going to take a meter to it. Thanks again everone!-Justin-


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, so unscrew all the wires.

Put a meter in the ohms scale, and connect one probe to one of the track pickups... there should be NO continuity between it and ANY other wire.

Make sure it does have continuity to the proper wheels.

Now do this for the other track pickup wire.

Now check the 2 wires to the motor, you should have a fairly low resistance. If that is right apply a low voltage to ensure you really have the motor wires, the motor should turn.

Now connect ONLY 4 wires to the decoder, the track pickups and the motor.

Now things should work.

Do the lights / sound later.

Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

UPDATE:
I ended up ripping out the stupid old "DCC ready" board. Installing fresh wire and the new decoder took under 20 minutes. The trucks and motor were already isolated. My problem I was having was also that my power was under. I made my own booster using a $15 power switcher which I saw a reputable dcc supplier asking $109!!! Power cord not included the dcc supplier price $10 my price $3 if anyone looks in the future at this seeking advice on a type 2 decoder install in an LGB locomotive, toss and rip it! -thanks everyone!- Justin


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Justin, what kind of short circuit detection and protection did you add to your booster?

Is it adjustable for current, duration, etc.?

Did you also support remote shutdown?

There's a lot more to a booster than the basic function of power.

Regards, Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Justin, what kind of short circuit detection and protection did you add to your booster?
> 
> Is it adjustable for current, duration, etc.?
> 
> ...


Greg,
The way I routed it is through my digitrax system so if there is a short, the digitrax system will turn off. The current is adjustable and of course has its own fuse. The digitrax system is pulling only what power is needed. I have it at a low setting so as there is not alot of feed out. Doing so using a meter. I am easily able to run 2 locomotives with full lights and sound and lighted passenger equipment. I have a fuse set up between the power source and digitrax system for added protection. I got the advice reading up on the web. The same can be done for analog equipment as well. No issues what so ever and no drop in track voltage. I am loving it. Output can be adjusted as needed. Max is 24v 13amps. I am building a box for it and will post pictures.-Justin-


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm a little confused, how are you routing it "through" your digitrax system? Is your booster input connected to the output of the digitrax booster?

Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I'm a little confused, how are you routing it "through" your digitrax system? Is your booster input connected to the output of the digitrax booster?
> 
> Greg


Greg,
here is an example. -Justin-


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So you did not buy a booster, but you bought a power supply to power the booster in your Digitrax. Now I understand.

You bought an inexpensive switching power supply. Great, they are out there. Many of us have pretty much standardized on Meanwell ones, good quality, good price. I've been using them about 10 years myself. Yes, there are people charging way too much for the same product.

There are other brands, but while they all look similar, some of the really cheap ones don't last.

Regards, Greg


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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


> So you did not buy a booster, but you bought a power supply to power the booster in your Digitrax. Now I understand.
> 
> You bought an inexpensive switching power supply. Great, they are out there. Many of us have pretty much standardized on Meanwell ones, good quality, good price. I've been using them about 10 years myself. Yes, there are people charging way too much for the same product.
> 
> ...


Greg,
So far so good! Really doesn't get hot and I had it running for a good hour. The fan seems to do a great job. I'm building a case to place them in with some cooling fans and ventilation that way it doesn't look messy. I already have the IR/Radio interface as a back up. But im using jmri and wi throttle. That way anyone that comes by can log into my wifi and run trains even analog. -Justin-


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)




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## dccforme (Jul 29, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


>


Holy cow thats big! LOL


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

the base is about 12 inches across, the stack is about 9 inches high.

The power supply at the bottom should be pretty much identical in size to what you are using. It's a Meanwell.

The NCE system is a 10 amp system. 

On top is the 110v kill switch for power, and a serial port extender so I can control the DCC system from JMRI remotely.

That's 10 gauge feeders to the layout.

Greg


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