# Advice please - how to separate glued parts??



## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello there,

I am in the progress of kitbashing and repainting an Aristocraft GP40 but came across a problem. I found some of the parts (e.g. clear window glass, number boards, etc.) were tightly glued and cannot be separated from the body shell. If I apply too much force, I am sure the fragile plastic parts will get damaged.

May I have your advice please?

Raymond


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I'm not sure what's worse. My on my USAT S4 the windows fall out if you look at them crosseyed. Likewise my Aristo RDC-1. As you found out, the opposite is true with the Aristo GP-40. When I repainted mine I saw no choice but to mask off the windows and number boards and use an Exacto knife to trim the excess. Fingernails and small scribe helped get the tape into rounded corners, etc. 

Pain in the neck though it may be, I think it's probably safer than trying solvents which might craze the plastic. 

JackM 

You're right about using much force. When I pulled the headlight PC board to switch to LEDs I ended up cracking the window frame. Fortunately, styrene glue and a dab of paint covered my hamfistedness. That hot glue or whatever it is they used sure doesn't want to let go.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Try putting it in the freezer for a while.


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## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks. Putting well glued plastic parts in a freezer? That sounds a creative idea!! Then should I pry the parts off with a small screwdriver?


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

in my experience-its simple trial and error 
sometimes you can wedge a knife and pry with success 
sometimes they are welded -either electrically or with solvent 

i have learned, (being pereseverant and sometimes too adventurous, and who also likes a nicely prepped paint surface etc.) that sometimes you need to try Plan B to avoid damage 
the key is knowing when its not giving and STOP-i can say this from several windows that have not given way-sometimes your lucky and only the glued edge will tear -sometimes you destroy the part

in your case-if they are really snug and not giving, id mask-the slight imperfection of this method versus new parts, cracked surrounds, etc, may be the better choice 

as for solvents-modern glue is really good-meaning youre out of luck maybe
if the glue is some kind of goo or rubber-then a solvent might work-old glue dries and loses adhesion because its brittle -usually looks brown 

i use lighter fluid sometimes-it penetrates under stuff if it can-and this can help with the rubber type cements 
so does letting stuff sit for a day of more with repeat applications -time can really help with softening

obviously if its welded this is not applicable

never use acetone
never use laquer thinner
i know -they can wreak havoc even on the best plastics

mild model paint thinner can work -use caution tho

now all said-
i have had great results using liquid mask for tricky paint situations-best part-its like liquid elastic-goes on easy to control-peels off clean-


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I believe freezing works best on Hot Glue joints


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