# Accucraft K36



## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Shipping December 18th. Just got my invoice for the money.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it off to Dave Hottman's for the usual overhaul or are you going to see how it runs "as shipped from the factory" first ?


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

John
So, you final got a "ride behind" steam locomotive. Need to broaden the borders around the layout. I am not sure I want pay the bill for fueling that beast!


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

So, are ya gonna lug it to Mississippi next month?


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JEFF RUNGE on 07 Dec 2009 12:37 PM 
Is it off to Dave Hottman's for the usual overhaul or are you going to see how it runs "as shipped from the factory" first ? Well Jeff I think Dave Hottman has 'retired' so I am probably going to have to live with it as is. Tom Burns is thinking about a coal conversion for his. I just hope it will actually make it around my railroad without hitting switch throws and scraping the walls of the tunnel. I have plenty of fuel but it will probably take half a can. As for DH, I don't know. Depends on if I have a carrier it will fit in and a dolly to move it around.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JEFF RUNGE on 07 Dec 2009 12:37 PM 
Is it off to Dave Hottman's for the usual overhaul or are you going to see how it runs "as shipped from the factory" first ? You gotta admit John, that was a good one !!!!


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Steve S. on 07 Dec 2009 10:47 PM 
Posted By JEFF RUNGE on 07 Dec 2009 12:37 PM 
Is it off to Dave Hottman's for the usual overhaul or are you going to see how it runs "as shipped from the factory" first ? You gotta admit John, that was a good one !!!!










Steve, I did get a chuckle out of that comment. But truthfully, if I could I would just have all my stuff sent straight to Dave first for custom mods before I ever saw it. If you were still buying Aster's you could just send them all through Jeff. lol.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

John, I like the idea of a coal fired conversion, Not that I'm getting into NG, but with the large size it would be a good candidate. I do hope it runs to your liking. I think you may need to build a trailer, not a caring case to transport it... hehe


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

The latest from Cliff at Accucraft HQ (Wednesday 11/9 PM) re K-36 arrival:

They arrive here on the 18th . That's a Friday. I doubt they will ship
till the following Monday. That would be the 21st and only if
everything is on time. Sometimes the shipment gets tied up in customs
at the port of Oakland.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Jeff Williams on 09 Dec 2009 04:33 PM 
The latest from Cliff at Accucraft HQ (Wednesday 11/9 PM) re K-36 arrival:

They arrive here on the 18th . That's a Friday. I doubt they will ship
till the following Monday. That would be the 21st and only if
everything is on time. Sometimes the shipment gets tied up in customs
at the port of Oakland. 



Jeff, actually that's good news. I would prefer they wait until after Christmas to ship them to avoid the crunch.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

John, did your engine ship?


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JEFF RUNGE on 19 Dec 2009 07:08 AM 
John, did your engine ship? I haven't heard Jeff. I hope so. I sent them the money.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jfrank on 07 Dec 2009 07:56 PM 
Well Jeff I think Dave Hottman has 'retired' so I am probably going to have to live with it as is. 


Just talked to Dave Hottman and he is doing well and is still busy doing work for Accucraft as usual. Just to clarify my comment above about Dave being 'retired'. People that actually know me realize that I am seldom serious on here. Dave is of course not retired. He is just retired from repairing my K27 which was a mess. So those of you that became concerned and started to bug Cliff, you can relax now.







Dave did say however that he is *off meths* forever. If you want an explanation of that he will be at Diamondhead to explain it. My K36 was shipped today I am told, so I am anxiously awaiting it's arrival. I plan to bring it to Diamondhead as Dave is bringing one also. If anyone else brings theirs we will do a multiple lash up for you. Should be exciting, all those monsters hooked together. Hope the track holds up. John


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

John, 

Enjoy your K-36, and give us a report as soon as you run it! This thing makes a K-27 look like Ruby. If it pulls like the proto model we ran at Cabin Fever last year, you'll be amazed. One to put on the draw bar competition.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

If these locomotives keep getting bigger (Dave Hottman - how much additional weight and resizing are you going to do?), I may need to get a scale that can measure more than 20 lbs for the draw bar pull. Anxious to try one out to have a comparison to the other K's.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 23 Dec 2009 04:25 AM 
If these locomotives keep getting bigger (Dave Hottman - how much additional weight and resizing are you going to do?), I may need to get a scale that can measure more than 20 lbs for the draw bar pull. Anxious to try one out to have a comparison to the other K's.


According to the UPS tracking report the package weighs 69lbs. I will probably have to unpack it on my doorstep. I hope you are right and it pulls great. My main concern is that it will fit through the tunnel and now hit my switch throws.


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## RP3 (Jan 5, 2008)

The width of this lovely and powerful engine broke my heart. When it appeared at DH, I was ready to place a reservation. Then a dealer friend asked me about the width issue. I immediately and carefully measured the prototype and then compared those measurements to a sample of Pete Comley's turnouts. Unfortunately, it seems that -- while waddling along as engines will do -- this engine can't clear the beautiful upright switchstands that Pete sells and are an integral feature on the friend's truck where I do virtually all my steaming. And since this same track has the switchstands exactly halfway between the double mainline track centers, there was no way to move the switchstands to make room for the K-36. So alas, my narrow gauge love will go on unrequieted -- that is unless I am ready to invest in a railroad empire of my own! 

But you guys bring your giant NG Mikes to DH and I will very much enjoy watching them run! 

Merry Christmas, 

Ross Schlabach


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By RP3 on 24 Dec 2009 06:22 AM 
The width of this lovely and powerful engine broke my heart. When it appeared at DH, I was ready to place a reservation. Then a dealer friend asked me about the width issue. I immediately and carefully measured the prototype and then compared those measurements to a sample of Pete Comley's turnouts. Unfortunately, it seems that -- while waddling along as engines will do -- this engine can't clear the beautiful upright switchstands that Pete sells and are an integral feature on the friend's truck where I do virtually all my steaming. And since this same track has the switchstands exactly halfway between the double mainline track centers, there was no way to move the switchstands to make room for the K-36. So alas, my narrow gauge love will go on unrequieted -- that is unless I am ready to invest in a railroad empire of my own! 

But you guys bring your giant NG Mikes to DH and I will very much enjoy watching them run! 

Merry Christmas, 

Ross Schlabach 

Ross, I use the tenmille ground throws. I never had any issues until I got the K28. There was one the cylinder drain cocks would always clip. I had to move it farther out. I am hoping I don't have the same problem with the K36.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

I got mine.









Here are the pics. I haven't run it. Just arrived at 4:59pm today.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jfrank...979577537/

I already have a question for the experts. How do you get the steam dome off. It doesn't seem to unscrew like all the others?

I did not notice any damage or anything loose. It looks perfect. I found a couple of brass washers, a screw and a clip that goes on the front coupler pin. What a machine. I can't wait to test it out tomorrow.


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## fkrutzke (Jan 24, 2008)

John: 

For the steam dome see the pictures I posted under K-36 At Last. 

Torry


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By fkrutzke on 30 Dec 2009 06:34 PM 
John: 

For the steam dome see the pictures I posted under K-36 At Last. 

Torry 
Thanks Torry. I read your post after I had already submitted mine. Thanks for all the detailed information you furnished. That is a great help, particularly if you haven't read the instructions. lol. But then, real men don't need instructions.........that is unless all else fails.







I am still admiring it. Tomorrow I have to check that everything is tight, no loose screws, and service the engine before I can actually run it. I also have to clean off the track, as we have had some ferocious storms here and there are leaves and debris all over the track.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I test ran the beast on the stand this morning and it ran fine. I don't know how much water the boiler holds, but at 400 ml it was only up to the bottom of the site glass. At 800 it was a little over half full. The only issue I had is the water hose from the tender is split so I couldn't test out the water pump. The loose screw went on the throttle flange. The washer goes in the water connector. I don't think the oiler is adjusted right as it used very little oil which for an Accucraft is unusual. I will adjust it on the next test. The burners are a little noisy and could probably use some mesh which I have plenty of. That is all for now. Stay tuned.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Yesterday I did my second run on the test stand. I had trouble keeping the left hand burner lit so I shut it off and decided to fix that right there. The engine has these adjustable rings that Dave Hottman invented and Accucraft started using on their K28. They work fine except that the left hand ring needs to be notched so as to clear the super heater pipe or you can't get the full adjustment. I did that, then I wrapped both burners with the stainless steel mesh that I got a few years ago from Mc-Master Carr. One sheet is about a life time supply. I relit the beast and got an awful howl from the left hand burner until I got the ring adjusted right, then everything started to work just fine and the engine heated up quickly. I also readjusted the oiler to allow more steam oil into the cylinders. This engine has the new Accucraft adjustable oiler. I don't think they had it adjusted correctly, but we shall see. Anyway I noticed no other problems with the engine and the test went fine. Next step is to run it outside with a load to see how it performs and to check clearances. Unfortunately, it's cold and windy today so that test may have to wait. I also need to check wheel gauge which I should have done when I oiled and serviced the engine and had it upside down. Accucraft engines are usually well in gauge, but I did find a pony truck that was way off one time. Everyone that has seen it agrees that this is one fine model. Accucraft has really done a great job on this one.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey John. It was fun seeing the K36 yesterday. That engine makes even us "_Aster Snobs _" take notice. AWESOME ENGINE!!!!!! That's one Accucraft that you can store at my house any time that you want to.[/b]


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

That engine makes even us "Aster Snobs " take notice.Be still my beating heart!!


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Happy New Year All.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I finally ran this beast on my railroad and it passed the 'clearance' test and did not derail. Ran perfect. Actually too good as I got tired of chasing it down. RC is next. Only problem I encountered was the draw bar is too low and the tender kept coming loose. Pair of pliers took care of that.


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## SailorDon (Jan 6, 2008)

Hey John! I am glad you brought you brand new K-36 to the first ever Steamin' at Tom's Place. I hope you didn't damage his track with the weight of that K-36.









I posted photos and a video clip at

http://www.mylargescale.com/tabid/5...fault.aspx

I still think that waiting 2 years after you put down your deposit is too long to wait. You gotta' have patience with a capital "P" on that order. 
I guess it was worth the wait since nobody else makes a live steam K-36.

What a great way to start the new year!


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SailorDon on 02 Jan 2010 09:09 PM 
Hey John! I am glad you brought you brand new K-36 to the first ever Steamin' at Tom's Place. I hope you didn't damage his track with the weight of that K-36.









I posted photos and a video clip at

http://www.mylargescale.com/tabid/5...fault.aspx

I still think that waiting 2 years after you put down your deposit is too long to wait. You gotta' have patience with a capital "P" on that order. 
I guess it was worth the wait since nobody else makes a live steam K-36.

What a great way to start the new year!


Thanks Sailor Don. That engine is really too heavy to take out very often. Glad everyone got to see it. I will probably take it to Diamondhead. After that it's going in the barn and being restricted to my railroad only.







I hope to complete the RC this week. Thanks for the video clip and the pics. The long wait is just typical of the hobby if you really want an engine. You can always just wait and see what comes out and take your chances. But in the case of the Mason Boggie, it's already sold out and the production models are not here yet.


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## SailorDon (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By jfrank on 03 Jan 2010 07:22 AM 
That engine is really too heavy to take out very often. Glad everyone got to see it. ........ I hope to complete the RC this week. 
If the RC doesn't work out, you could always convert it to a "ride behind" like the 7 1/2" gagers do.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Got my #480 K-36 today. To keep it short, let me just reemphasize some points others have made: 

1) beautiful 
2) huge (wide and heavy...loco is 2" overall longer than K-28, width over cylinders essentially the same, but on the K-28, the cylinders stick out and on the K-36, they are tucked in under the running boards) 
3) needs to be unpacked carefully to find the screws that have come out (for me: one tender truck in "kit" form, tender drawbar pin, cab screw, loose steam dome fittings and therefore, loose steam dome) 
4) beautiful (worth repeating)


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

I sell both Accucraft and Aster. If it’s an Accucraft why is it that if things fall off, needs to be rebuilt, wheel sets out of gauge plus whatever, everyone says beautiful? If it’s an Aster engine and the packing box is dirty or Heaven forbid the box is scratched the customer demands a new engine? 

Why?


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## ETSRRCo (Aug 19, 2008)

Price difference maybe?


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan, because everyone knows the quality of products that come out of China. Accucraft chooses to produce their product there, and those that want their product are just happy it's available. No one else is doing the larger NG engines. Their production runs are 1/2 or less then what Aster makes because they have found there is a smaller number of people willing to buy their product. I used to think it was just less demand for NG but even their SG are done in small batches. I understand that Aster sells more kits then RTR. Accucraft looses this market but that also helps keep the price down. People who buy Accucraft engines are not stupid, they understand that these issues are part of the "deal" they are getting. NO kits, no assembly manual, and maybe some adjustments before it is RTR. Shipping damage may be a packing issue or possibly a shipping problem. I don't know how these companies ship, other then they arrive on a pallet. 
Why does the Aster customer demand more ?. They should, a K-36 is what $4500.00 and as S-2 is about $8000.00 (RTR) it's true with anything you buy the more you spend the more respect you get from the seller. IF the K -36 was $8000.00 do you REALY think the people buying them would put up with the BS they do? I hope not. I don't expect the same from the Hyundai dealer that I do from the M B dealer, why ? because I'm spending about 1/3 the amount of money. Houses are the same way. You have different expectations based on how much your going to spend. Call a real-estate agent tell him you approved for a 150K mortgage and you get one kind of response, tell him your approved for 4.5 million and he will show you houses during a blizzard at midnight if you want. 
Just my opinion, but you did ask...


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff
For Accucraft even at 8K the museum quality will mean; great to look at , it runs but..... 

The biggest peeve I have is the limited or lack of parts available and/or in a timely manner. Unlike Aster that does a quantity that has the likelihood of availability for years. someone with an Accucraft had better raid the stock room or hope there are many shipping damaged units for spare parts.


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## Anthony Duarte (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By Charles on 08 Jan 2010 05:48 AM 
Jeff
For Accucraft even at 8K the museum quality will mean; great to look at , it runs but.....

Accucraft's $8k locomotive is the Cab Forward. Mind you, Aster's articulated loco, the Allegheny, is $25k RTR.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Anthony
To me $8K for the top of the line production should be just that in both looks and function. In fact, I rather have function over form any day... 

In relative cost comparison terms, I do not see Roundhouse built for half Accucraft cost having functionality problems. Finally, just denote the cost comparison of the Accucraft NG equipment at half the price does not have nearly the functional problems of the SG versions.

So, your logic would dictate that since the GS4 had problems that the CF would not have had problems because it cost twice as much. History shows this not to be true: GS4 cost less than CF, CP Hudson (thankfully Dick Abbott was on top of it) but the productions had functional problems despite costing more.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

Can somebody mention what is the lenght of the locomotive and tender together? Also weight?


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Charles on 08 Jan 2010 11:34 AM 
Anthony
To me $8K for the top of the line production should be just that in both looks and function. In fact, I rather have function over form any day... 

In relative cost comparison terms, I do not see Roundhouse built for half Accucraft cost having functionality problems. Finally, just denote the cost comparison of the Accucraft NG equipment at half the price does not have nearly the functional problems of the SG versions.

So, your logic would dictate that since the GS4 had problems that the CF would not have had problems because it cost twice as much. History shows this not to be true: GS4 cost less than CF, CP Hudson (thankfully Dick Abbott was on top of it) but the productions had functional problems despite costing more.


Charles - you are talking sheep and goats here - Roundhouse do not make any gauge 1 scale models of anything, and their range of 16mm scale models easily out-cost those similar-scale models made by AccuCraft by substantial margins. The like-for-like comparison 0-6-0 from each builder - the RH 'Lady Anne' costs $2450.00 - the AccuCraft 'Lawley' much less than half that amount. RH's largest loco, the SR&RL prairie, easily beats the $3500 mark, last time I looked. 

The main difference is that RH actually runs ALL its locos in on air - for eight hours - then on steam - then actually hauling a 20 pound weight on a rail-flat - BEFORE they leave the premises.

AFAIK, no AccuCraft loco is subjected to anything more than a bare boiler test.

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

Charles, 

What engines are you comparing to figure Roundhouse is half what Accucraft charges?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

While this thread is getting off-topic, I can't resist putting in my 2 cents-- I have equal numbers of Roundhouse and Accucraft engines. Apples and oranges--definitely. I buy Roundhouse and pay for superb, if basic, design, flawless performance, and available parts if necessary. I buy Accucraft for excellent detail and overall appearance, and take my chances on quality and performance. This is not really a gamble for me, as I am able to make my own adjustments and repairs, and they have been necessary with Accucraft, but not Roundhouse. As for enhancing the basic appearance of most Roundhouse engines, just refer to a much earlier thread here on my conversion of a SR 24 into my 1:20.3 Belden Falls 12. 

Larry


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry
Well stated!

TAC
I was comparing dollar cost to performance outcome; as the prior point was an excuse that the Accucraft CF is not built as well as Aster due to cost requirements to do so- nonsense. If so, then the lowest cost Roundhouse should not perform like a Roundhouse but many a Mamod in relative terms. Just because an item is build at a lower cost (which it should be given it is made in China vs Japan) is not reason for a lack of proper performance and function if it is suppose to be built to "museum quality" or Roundhouse standards. The lower cost for Accucraft should offset the additional time, labor, material etc thus a $8K CF should perform with the quality of an Aster for a "big" locomotive. I am not convinced based on our work that it would have required an "Aster price" to do so with the China labor market (if that is so, how in the **** does Aster do it?). The cost of Chinese factory labor is a paltry 64 cents an hour. Worker hourly rates for Japan is $22 per hour...do the math.

Therefore, let us speak of apples to apples: GS4 
Accucraft $4449 vs. Aster 10,000. My premise is that the offside of wages, and all the work related cost along with subcontracting should allow a "museum quality" piece by Accucraft to match Aster in form and function at that price gap. In particular since it is "mass" produced (thus savings) the cost factor is much less than what I know it to be in retrofitting the engine to a correct state of running/presentation. With that said I know what it will cost for a custom job to retrofit a CF and it is a very, very small fraction of the cost gap between an Aster and Accucraft SG engine. Even less if Accucraft had done so in the original production. I dare to say that the new CF should have all the corrections for the increase over the original price to justify the $8K.


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Jeff R / Dan P 

Just for the RECORD, I have had TWO Aster kits where the pressure gage had the needle on the WRONG side of the pin. Was not particularly useful for doing anything but plugging the end of the pipe. Aster replaced one, but not the other [said the unbuilt kit was TOO OLD] for them to cover the defect. 

Also, the frame on my Aster King George V kit was not welded square. Makes it a challenge for the mechanism to be trued up so it runs without binding. 

NO ONE is perfect


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

All I care about is that each manufacture keeps improving there designs/productions (which they are!), it benefits all of us in the end. 

(as I work for a manufacture of embedded devices) Its very hard to get it all right in the time frame to make it profitable! 

Anyway, YAY K-36, My father and I will be at diamondhead (like usual) with our K-28, the k36's little brother with a lot of heart! (so said the museum curator to me at the durango and silverton museum last July!) 

Andrew


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim if you quit dropping the gages on the floor that won't happen ! hehe,


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dan Pantages on 07 Jan 2010 08:52 PM 
I sell both Accucraft and Aster. If it’s an Accucraft why is it that if things fall off, needs to be rebuilt, wheel sets out of gauge plus whatever, everyone says beautiful? If it’s an Aster engine and the packing box is dirty or Heaven forbid the box is scratched the customer demands a new engine? 

Why? 



Dan- Accucraft engines have been picked apart for years on this board, so I wouldn't say "everyone" says beautiful when they have problems. As for your note about Aster customers complaining about everything, just be glad it's not posted all over the internet. In fact, it seems like more than a few Aster owners would not dare post anything concerning problems with their engines. I’ve been to meets where many different engines have performance issues, and on Monday it’s just the Accucrafts being posted about…


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, on this thread the people "picking them apart" ARE THE PEOPLE WHO PURCHASED ONE !! Dan, a dealer for both Aster and Accucraft asked the question why customers have different expectations based on what brand they buy. The posts that followed including mine were speculation or opinions to that question. Jim mentioned some issues he has had, and correctly stated NO ONE is perfect, but we all keep coming back for more, so we must be happy with what we are getting.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dan Pantages on 07 Jan 2010 08:52 PM 
I sell both Accucraft and Aster. If it’s an Accucraft why is it that if things fall off, needs to be rebuilt, wheel sets out of gauge plus whatever, everyone says beautiful? If it’s an Aster engine and the packing box is dirty or Heaven forbid the box is scratched the customer demands a new engine? 

Why? 
Because, Dan, it took me maybe 15 minutes to reattached the screws and I saved how much over the cost if this loco were ever produced by Aster (and I have an Aster loco...not just Accucraft).

It IS beautiful.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By privero on 08 Jan 2010 12:18 PM 
Can somebody mention what is the lenght of the locomotive and tender together? Also weight? 
42" over the coupler faces (that's 2" longer than the K-28). Weight?...heavy. I think the shipping docs said 89#. That includes packaing, of course. I'm guessing that the loco weighs 40-45# and tender about 15-20#.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry (not really) for the multiple posts, but each addresses a different issue. Now some cosmetic observations: 

1) no plow brackets (as there were on the pilot model and most photos of K-36's) 
2) rather strange front cab doors that have an open bottom panel which should be an inset soild panel (easy fix, but strange they overlooked this). Got to have some place for the "ENGINE EQUIPPED WITH FLANGE OILER - USE IT" signs on the inside (David Bailey has this as a dry transfer) 
3) my #480 has a builder's plate that has the correct number on it (58558) for this loco. I'm curious to hear from those with other K-36's to know whether the numbers differ and are correct for their locos or whether they just used the first-in-class number (which worked for me).


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Ah, right, thanks for the explanation. If I understand you aright - you are saying that if the salary costs were equivalent, then the disparity in the ready-to-run quality would be inexcusable. I 'spose you are right...


However, even Aster parts out its components - they do not all come from the little shed in Yokohama. What you are paying for, for the most part, is that the Aster model is an almost nut and bolt replication of the full-size item in Gauge 1 proportions - even my old Br01 has individual leaf-springs of all drivers - a total of almost a hundred components just there. Accucraft just does not go the those lengths, even with its mighty and new K-36. But then, Aster does not actually make a live-steam K-36...and if it did, only the very well-off could afford it.

BTW, I have often admired main131's CF, and as far as I know, nothing has ever been done to it to 'improve' it so far.

Best wishes

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JEFF RUNGE on 07 Jan 2010 10:56 PM 
Dan, because everyone knows the quality of products that come out of China. Accucraft chooses to produce their product there, and those that want their product are just happy it's available. No one else is doing the larger NG engines. 

Jeff, thanks for posting this. That's the real answer. Discounting the on going debate about Aster vs Roundhouse vs Accucraft, if you want US prototype narrow gauge and standard gauge engines Accucraft is about the only game in town. Who else has made a cab forward, an F5, an S12,a GS4 in three different styles, a C16,C19, C21, K27, K28 and now a K36(plus a host of smaller geared and rod engines). No one. I think this engine is beautiful and it runs great. If I had to tighten a couple of screws, who cares. The finish and detail on these engines is second to none. By the way, I have finished the RC on mine and I will post some pics later on. Hope to have it at Diamondhead for anyone that wants to see it. Mine is #488.


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Jeff R 

Sorry to say, I didn't drop the gages. Next time you come to No VA, show me how dropping a gage will make the needle "jump over the pin" and end up on the wrong side. Jo Anne has a PSC brass electric [1:24] K-27 where the bolt holting the eccentric to the crank was threasded in from the wrong end so that it did not actually hold anything on. Frirst time we ran the loco it came off and the rod got bent when it hit the ballast and tried to jack up one side of the engine. 

Had a call from Bob Root in NY reporting that he had his K-36 on the roller stand within a couple of hourds of unpacking the engine. He reported that "he didn't have any loose screws". Presumably he was refering to the locomotive. Sounded like a very happy camper. It sounds like this loco is a winner. 

I suspect we may have clearance issues on the curves with the 10 and 12 foot radius portable tracks. After the first K-36 "clears the tracks" there will be no doubt. My only other concern is clearance for ground throws and the cylinder cock levers, which has been problematic before on other locos. 

Regards


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr Rivet on 08 Jan 2010 07:58 PM 
Jeff R 

I suspect we may have clearance issues on the curves with the 10 and 12 foot radius portable tracks. After the first K-36 "clears the tracks" there will be no doubt. My only other concern is clearance for ground throws and the cylinder cock levers, which has been problematic before on other locos. 

Regards 
Jim, I have only had one chance to run the K36 around my backyard railroad to test clearances due to the very cold weather here. I did not notice any problems with ground throws. I use the tenmille throws. As long as your track centers are 8" are better I think it will clear anything. I ran it on a friends elevated track with 10' radius curves and 8" clearance and it seemed to be ok. If two of these beasts meet on the curve I think I would take it slow at first to check it out. If you use the elevated type switch stands your on your own.


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## ETSRRCo (Aug 19, 2008)

Can anyone with one of these beautiful locomotives do me a favor? Could someone give me the measurement of the cylinder casting from the from cylinder head to the rear cylinder head?


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By ETSRRCo on 08 Jan 2010 09:31 PM 
Can anyone with one of these beautiful locomotives do me a favor? Could someone give me the measurement of the cylinder casting from the from cylinder head to the rear cylinder head? 2.0"


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, if you supply the gages I'll give the drop test a shot. hehe, As I said I have NOT had it with these little pressure gages , but have had mechanics knock a compression gage off the fender cover and the needle "hopped" over the pin. Had the same results when I dropped an oil pressure gage. ( these were both Snap-on Brand tools) 
As I said before we all must be pretty happy with what we're getting regardless of brand, as we keep coming back for more!


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

Just for the RECORD, I have had TWO Aster kits where the pressure gage had the needle on the WRONG side of the pin. Was not particularly useful for doing anything but plugging the end of the pipe. Aster replaced one, but not the other [said the unbuilt kit was TOO OLD] for them to cover the defect. 

Also, the frame on my Aster King George V kit was not welded square. Makes it a challenge for the mechanism to be trued up so it runs without binding. 

NO ONE is perfect 

Perhaps, even Aster can make a mistake. But I have seen your King George run Jim, and it is a sight to behold. It runs magnificently. That's impressive for an engine that old. 

See you next week, John


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## ETSRRCo (Aug 19, 2008)

Posted By chama on 09 Jan 2010 07:04 AM 
Posted By ETSRRCo on 08 Jan 2010 09:31 PM 
Can anyone with one of these beautiful locomotives do me a favor? Could someone give me the measurement of the cylinder casting from the from cylinder head to the rear cylinder head? 2.0"





THANK YOU!!!


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## Tim Hytrek (Jan 2, 2008)

Has anyone installed a snow plow on their K-36? Mine is #486, which according to Accucraft, takes a different snow plow than the other K-36's. I tried to put mine on, but it appears that the stanchions above the two step plates are in the way of installing it. 1, I have the plow for the other K-36's, or two, some disassemblyt of the pilot parts is nessessary to install it. No instructions are included with the plow, to indicate assembly instructions. The K-28 plow I buoght fit easily, and the K-36 seems to connect the same way, just does not fit directly over the pilot.


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## HeliconSteamer (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, 
You have come across a detail on your 480 that Accucraft got correct. As far as I know, 480 was the only K-36 that did not recieve plow brackets in D&RGW service. They were fitted by the D&S some time after the loco returned to service in 1985.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks. Didn't know that, but see that to be the case with a little more web research. Since I've got a plow on my K-28, I wasn't planning on adding one to the K-36, but just wondered why there were no brackets as there were on the pilot model (also #480, so someone set them straight). Also hadn't thought to go back and look at Torry's great set of posted pictures where there clearly are brackets...so Accucraft really did some loco to loco variations to match the prototypes. Along that line, I can also see from Torry's pictures that they used the correct builder's plate numbers on the different road numbers. That got me looking (not sure why I never paid attention to this earlier) and I found that the builder's plate number on my K-28 (#476) and C-19 (#346) are correct. The latter would be the actual (only) prototype they could have measured and photographed so it doesn't prove individual model variations for the C-19s. Earlier models aren't as faithful: my K-27 (#461) has the builder's plate number of #463 which was undoubtably based on that surviving K-27 being the measured/photographed "master". BLUF, Accucraft is paying more attention to within-class variation than before.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Another item noticed: tender capacity is lettered 6000 Gals. The K-36's were 5000 Gals (K-37 were 6000). A small detail that could have easily been done correctly.


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## mpohly (Jan 10, 2010)

I just unacked my K-36 Live Steam and found, and fixed all the items in this topic. Thanks for your help. I have been active in live steam for many years and the K-36 is my first in G gauge. My question is, included in the packing was two fine black wires and two semi circle silver painted pieces, where do they go on the locomotive? My engine is #486 with the green boiler.


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## Westport (Nov 28, 2009)

I am a relatively new member of mylargescale.com with an Accucraft K-28 live steamer (and a friend of Dan Pantages), so I am looking forward to hearing how JFrank installed r/c in his new K-36-what he used for servos and r/c...I have a longish layout and need to r/c my K-28-I can't run that fast when it hits the downhill portions of the layout! 

Myron Claridge 
West Port and Yukon


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

One piece of wire (ideally, gentled curved) is the whistle rope which goes from the whistle lever (which, based on photos, should angle down from the cab side of the whistle at about a 45 degree angle) through the hole slightly on the fireman's side of the cab front. The second may just be an extra (I only had the one). If the "semi circle silver painted pieces" were wrapped in tissue and packed in one of the zip-lock envelopes (with extra screws and a few tools), then they are the rerailing frogs which hang from the pair of hooks on the sides of the tender frames (usually the rear set of hooks). These "frogs" were a field-expedient way of rerailing equipment that was only slightly derailed (wheels dropped just inside or outside of the rail. Spiked into position, they provided a ramp so that when the loco moved forward the derailed wheel would ride back up onto the rail.


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## mpohly (Jan 10, 2010)

Thank You Scott you cleared that up for me. I was doing a little reaserch on the internet about the green boiler paint and it seems 486 may have never ran in green. And a lack of info that any K-36 ran in green except a couple of engines painted green in the 50s for a short time, not 486. So does green just look good on this model, of was it actually used?


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

It has never been very definitively determined which D&RGW locos had green boilers and when. Since green covered with oil and grime looks darn near black on B&W photos, I'd believe you'll never know for sure, and in the absence of certain knowledge that it didn't happen, enjoy it. I've got a K-28 and C-19 with the green bolier and it looks great. Don't lose any sleep over it.


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## ETSRRCo (Aug 19, 2008)

It has been confirmed that the 489 had a green boiler in the 1950s. How long it had it is not known but it did indeed have a green boiler. Here is a link to a color photo of the 489 taken on May 21, 1950. http://ngdiscussion.net/phorum/file...tachment=1


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

Posted By ETSRRCo on 10 Jan 2010 09:07 PM 
It has been confirmed that the 489 had a green boiler in the 1950s. How long it had it is not known but it did indeed have a green boiler. Here is a link to a color photo of the 489 taken on May 21, 1950. http://ngdiscussion.net/phorum/file...tachment=1 
Eric, apparently for less than five months starting from May 1950 when the excursion trip took place. But 50s do not count as this was done for fun, or more specifically, for railfans. Other than some likely green photo 'proofs' for 489, there is no evidence for any other K-36s being delivered with green boilers nor painted green in the regular service. Obviously, if railfans like green, yellow or pink, C&T and D&S can paint their engines accordingly, and so can Accucraft;-)... for some reason this sells well. The best reference I have found to date on the subject of green boilers on the D&RGW is this: http://utahrails.net/drgw/drgw-green-boilers.php Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By mpohly on 10 Jan 2010 05:10 PM 
I just unacked my K-36 Live Steam and found, and fixed all the items in this topic. Thanks for your help. I have been active in live steam for many years and the K-36 is my first in G gauge. My question is, included in the packing was two fine black wires and two semi circle silver painted pieces, where do they go on the locomotive? My engine is #486 with the green boiler.

Mornin', mpohly,, and welcome to the forum!! This loco is a heck of an entry into Fn3 - the correct name for this scale model 20.3 running on 45mm track to represent the three-foot gauge. We use the term 'G' as a kind of bandied-about catch-all here, since there is really no such thing as 'G gauge'..but there ya go!

Pics and so on are much appreciated, but you'll need to be a 1st class member to do it - but there are many side benefits, I 'm told. 

Welcome again!

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## mpohly (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, I have been surfing this site for some time now waiting for my k-36 to arrive in 20.3 scale. I have bee around live steam in the larger guages for many years. Have built a 1 1/2 scale Allen 10 wheeler and a number of stationary steam, gas, and sterling engines. Recently I have been in 3/4 scale locomotives and have a Northern which is 70% complete and a Hudson 100% complete which is for sale to pay for the K-36. I have come into this scale beacuse there are many places to run including my back yard. I have as well started to look at my vises by weight. This one I wont need a crane to get to the track. Again thanks for the help I am sure I will have more questions. I hope to put the K-36 under steam tonight on rollers.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Westport on 10 Jan 2010 06:08 PM 
I am a relatively new member of mylargescale.com with an Accucraft K-28 live steamer (and a friend of Dan Pantages), so I am looking forward to hearing how JFrank installed r/c in his new K-36-what he used for servos and r/c...I have a longish layout and need to r/c my K-28-I can't run that fast when it hits the downhill portions of the layout! 

Myron Claridge 
West Port and Yukon 

Myron, there are as many ways to install RC as there are people doing it. Some retire to their machine shop and turn out beautiful brackets and such to do the installation. I don't have that equipment or those skills so I do it the simplest way I can. I started out using brass plate to make brackets. I have found out that the forward/reverse servo can be simply glued to the side of the cab using DAP Auto/Marine sliicon sealant. Just allow around 24 hours for it to dry before you put it under stress. The throttle servo is almost always attached to the rear cab wall up high with machine screws with the servo arm sticking out the window. You have to drill some small holes through the cab wall. I use the Hitec mighty mini servos with ball bearings and metal gears. They make several sizes but the one I use most commonly is the HS-225MG. I use the Spektrum DX6 transmitter and receivers. I usually mount the batteries and receiver in the tender somewhere if possible. I don't like to put them in the cab because of the heat. For the K28 I put these in the doghouse on the tender. For the K36, since they made the rear deck removable, I just put them in there and put the on/off slide switch under the water filler lid. Usually I run the wires under the tender and up through the floor, but on the K36 they provided a tube through the fuel/water section to the rear that I used. You have to buy a couple of 12" extensions to reach back that far. All this is availble from your local RC hobbie shop or from Horizon Hobbies online. Here are a few pics. There are other articles and pictures in the archives on RC installations. Do a search on the K28 and find them.
I did not use the 'boxes' that Accucraft put in this locomotive to hold the servos. I found them to be useless.


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Had my first run with my K-36 yesterday at Cabin Fever and this is one sweet loco. Cleanest one I own as well...virtually no water/oil blowing ot the stack. The adjustable lubricator seems to be a huge improvement. It was, in fact, lubricating so the lack of stack efluvia wasn't because of no oil being passed...at the end of the run the lubricator contained the usual, mostly water, emulsion. Tender pump operates smoothly and with little effort. Very smooth runnng loco. We'll find out how much it can pull at Dr. Rivet's spring meet.

One item that I discovered after getting home: the tender drawbar pin was again very loose even though I'd tightened it earlier. Retightened with Loc-Tite (also on the tender side frame screws).


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By chama on 17 Jan 2010 07:09 PM 
We'll find out how much it can pull at Dr. Rivet's spring meet.

One item that I discovered after getting home: the tender drawbar pin was again very loose even though I'd tightened it earlier. Retightened with Loc-Tite (also on the tender side frame screws).


At Diamondhead mine won the top prize in the drawbar contest with a pull of 8lbs 14oz. Hope yours does even better. Mine was not even broken in yet. I had the same issue with the drawbar pin.


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## Westport (Nov 28, 2009)

John, thank you very much for the photos and the information, it is very much appreciated and I will follow it. I apologize about not seeing your response earlier, in my daily viewing of the site I was just waiting for the topic to return to the home listings; I have found the site very useful in learning or seeing how others are doing things. I had been told about the Spectrum but was uncertain about the servos and their placement/mounting. Thank you for taking the time to respond. 

Myron Claridge 
West Vancouver, BC 
the West Port and Yukon


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## bigsteam (Mar 6, 2008)

John: 

How did yours pull more than 8 pounds,when most others will pull only about 7 and a half? 

You must have added a lot of weight to it, where did you put the weights? 

John Torrence


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## RP3 (Jan 5, 2008)

John was the beneficiary of Torry Krutzke's quick thinking and knowledge of steam locomotives. Torry showed John how to position the drivers so that both cylinders would be in the middle of their power strokes. It took an extra minute or so to make sure the drivers were in the right position, but that was all it took and since the drivers didn't slip, they continued to provide maximum pull on both sides of the loco. 

Ross Schlabach


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## chama (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jfrank on 17 Jan 2010 08:37 PM 

"At Diamondhead mine won the top prize in the drawbar contest with a pull of 8lbs 14oz. Hope yours does even better. Mine was not even broken in yet."

John,

That makes your K-36 a K-74! (8.875# * 20.3 * 20.3 * 20.3) Congratulations!


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Drawbar results will be posted as soon as I unload my truck and find the paper work.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By chama on 18 Jan 2010 06:58 AM 
Posted By jfrank on 17 Jan 2010 08:37 PM 

"At Diamondhead mine won the top prize in the drawbar contest with a pull of 8lbs 14oz. Hope yours does even better. Mine was not even broken in yet."

John,

That makes your K-36 a K-74! (8.875# * 20.3 * 20.3 * 20.3) Congratulations!


Yes it turned out to be a team effort. First Dave Hottman did a tune up. He found the eccentrics to be off slightly. Then my friend Tom Burns suggested I enter it in the contest and helped me lug it over there. After the first two pulls(you get three trys) Tory made the suggestion on positioning the drivers. I had never thought of that. So thanks to all the 'team' members for their help. It was a lot of fun to do it. I had never entered the contest before and was surprised that I won anything much less first prize.


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## nickco201 (Jul 1, 2008)

So who is going to be the first to convert one to coal firing?!! Would be neat, and should work well with its large size.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr Rivet on 08 Jan 2010 07:58 PM 
Jeff R 

I suspect we may have clearance issues on the curves with the 10 and 12 foot radius portable tracks. After the first K-36 "clears the tracks" there will be no doubt. My only other concern is clearance for ground throws and the cylinder cock levers, which has been problematic before on other locos. 

Regards 

I have since run this a couple of times on my outdoor railroad. Count so far is three tenmille throws broken. I will have to move those out farther. It misses most of them. the problem comes with it takes the curved part of the turnout. It sometimes clips the throw and breaks off the screw in piece. I used 8" and 9" track centers so there is no clearance problem with passing other trains.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jfrank on 18 Jan 2010 06:58 PM 
Posted By Dr Rivet on 08 Jan 2010 07:58 PM 
Jeff R 

I suspect we may have clearance issues on the curves with the 10 and 12 foot radius portable tracks. After the first K-36 "clears the tracks" there will be no doubt. My only other concern is clearance for ground throws and the cylinder cock levers, which has been problematic before on other locos. 

Regards 

I have since run this a couple of times on my outdoor railroad. Count so far is three tenmille throws broken. I will have to move those out farther. It misses most of them. the problem comes with it takes the curved part of the turnout. It sometimes clips the throw and breaks off the screw in piece. I used 8" and 9" track centers so there is no clearance problem with passing other trains. 
You could always recess the throws, top of the throw flush with the deck surface, rather than move them further out. Then you don't have to worry if something bigger comes along, like a K-37.


;-))


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jfrank on 18 Jan 2010 06:58 PM 
Posted By Dr Rivet on 08 Jan 2010 07:58 PM 
Jeff R 

I suspect we may have clearance issues on the curves with the 10 and 12 foot radius portable tracks. After the first K-36 "clears the tracks" there will be no doubt. My only other concern is clearance for ground throws and the cylinder cock levers, which has been problematic before on other locos. 

Regards 

I have since run this a couple of times on my outdoor railroad. Count so far is three tenmille throws broken. I will have to move those out farther. It misses most of them. the problem comes with it takes the curved part of the turnout. It sometimes clips the throw and breaks off the screw in piece. I used 8" and 9" track centers so there is no clearance problem with passing other trains. 
Yes, as experienced this past weekend on the portable layout setup; the K36 cannot run with another "big engine" on a main line and caution must be taken regards clearance relative to the RR equipment parked there on the sidings as the K36 passes.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Hello ALL,

I have been reading this forum for some time now... and thought now is the time to sign up and make my first post! When I was a young kid, I was introduced to LGB... I had not touched my little starter set for over 20 years. Last Christmas my fiance asked me to pull that old train out of the attic and put it around the Christmas tree! So I did... and wow, it brought me back. I had a smile from ear to ear... I definitely caught the bug! After seeing how much fun I was having... I thought I would look up "live steam." The first and only time I had ever heard about it was in an old LGB catalog... the Aster Frank S. I called all around looking for it and found the Accucraft Ruby! So... I got the Ruby kit and put it together. After reading Mr. Dave Hottman's instructions, I was able to make my Ruby so much better! Now it runs awesome forward! Thanks Dave! 

I love the Ruby so much I got a summerland's chuffer pipe and added a whistle from DJB. (thanks to this forum I knew that these things existed!) 


Now for the main reason I am posting in the Accucraft K36 Topic... Ever since I saw this gorgeous locomotive run in several videos on YOUTUBE... I fell in love... I think I became obsessed. Well... I couldn't take it anymore and so I ordered one! It will be here in a week! I can't wait! I have several beautiful LGB engines... but the little Ruby has had all of my attention... I think it is because it NEEDS ME to run. After talking with Charles at Accucraft... I knew it was time for an upgrade! He told me that if I like the Ruby so much, that I would definitely LOVE their good stuff! After looking and looking at all of their beautiful IN STOCK locomotives... I finally decided that the K-36 was the one that I wanted. Getting a free caboose and 4 box cars was definitely icing on the cake. 

I was warned.... since the Ruby is the only experience I have with live steam... the K-36 will be challenging. I say... BRING IT ON! ;-) 

I am located here in Cape Coral, Florida, right next to Ft. Myers. Is there anybody close by??? Anybody with a nice outdoor layout? I am going to start building my garden railroad and would love to talk to some people in the area that have done it! I don't know if I should do the raised "Deck" style railroad or use the garden retaining block and build a raised garden and then put my track on ballast and do the whole "garden" railroad... If I can do a nice enough job, I hope to invite you all to a steam up at my place. ;-) That being said, do you guys have recommendations or "must haves" for a good layout for steam ups? 


I am very new to posting on forums, so please forgive me if I am not following the correct etiquette. 

I have read the K-36 topic and see that many people have to adjust / tune their K-36 before they run them. I can tell you that my Ruby, once adjusted the way Mr. Hottman says... worked a million times better! 


What can all of you K-36 owners tell me... or recommend I do when I open the box?

Thanks and I look forward to being a part of this "myLargescale.com" family!

Best Regards,

Jameel


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

Jameel, do not worry, K-36 is like two Ruby's! Just make sure that both burners (each for one Ruby) are lit. That's all. Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Thank you Zubi! I remember reading something about a mesh from McMaster Carr. What is the purpose of this mesh? 

Also, how do you adjust the adjustable oiler? In my Ruby, there is no adjustments... I just fill the oil and that is it! I am looking forward to all of the new features that this engine has. I really want to understand the adjustment points. How and why to make the adjustments. I think that is the engineer inside of me... I really want to understand the how and the why! I really enjoyed reading the document that Mr. Hottmann wrote about the Ruby. 


Has anybody written a document on "Getting Started" for the K-36 or Accucraft Live Steam? I read the instruction booklet that Accucraft has online for the K-36. I don't think it even mentions the tender water pump. I understand that this water pump will allow me to manually push water from the tender into a pressurized boiler. Does this mean, the water will run out well before the fuel tank empties?


Would somebody who has one of these engines or something similar take me through a steam up and run? I don't plan on going R/C... I want to keep it just like my Ruby... Maybe I will change my mind later, as I see so many people go RC right away.

The booklet doesn't even show where the blow down is. Maybe this will all look obvious once I get my engine!

I am very excited about this! I have already started thinking about making a carrier that I can put down on my track and let this big engine roll out. I think most of the damage occurs during transport.

I can't wait to hear more from the experts out there! 

Has Mr. Hottmann written anything about the K-36 adjustments? I would love to hear about that!


Thank you again for all of your support.


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

Jameel, forget about the meshes, the burners work fine as they are. The jets must be clean, otherwise you will have flameouts or one burner going out. But the jets are just like on the Ruby, except there are two of them. I found these adjustment gauges on the lubricators pretty pathetic and useless. Just make sure that they are open, one or two full turns will do. The pump works well and you can add some water to the boiler from time to time. But a 3/4 full boiler should be just about what a full gas tank can boil. Of course it is better and more fun to keep adding water from time to time to keep the water level above the burners. That's all, have fun, loads of it;-)... Best wishes, Zubi


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## Chillicharlie (Jan 2, 2008)

Jameel you might want to check this out http://www.livesteamers.org/2011/04/12/gscalegauge-1-track-is-now-open was built by MLS member 

Chillicharlie


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Wow! Thank you for that information! That is only 30 minutes from my parents condo in Ft. Lauderdale!


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Thanks again Zubi! I will keep all of this in mind when I fire her up for the first time! Do you know what "full" is for this boiler? On the Ruby, I just put 80cc from the syringe in and I am always fine. I believe this engine has a sight glass. Do you fill it so the sight glass is half way? 3/4 way? 
Now, I just need to build my outdoor railroad. The big question I need to answer is DECK or GARDEN... I think I will ask that in a different part of the forum. 
Thanks again!
Jameel


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Jameel-- 

Deck or ground level-- Depends mostly on you and your interest. I like ground level track because it offers the ability to stage realistic looking scenes. The down side is that you have to get down yourself to work on the track, scenery and trains. As we all get older, getting down becomes harder so...Raised deck tracks offer easier access to running your train at the expense of scenery. 

Certainly, you can raise your garden bed to help your back and knees or you can scenic a deck line with buildings, potted plants and upper reaches of ground growing shrubs. 

Most folks who are into RUNNING their steamers seem to like raised deck tracks. manual control works fine because the decks tend to be built level. Ground level tracks tend to have some grades to them and a certain amount of DRIVING is required thus Radio control is helpful.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); @import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By gigawat on 05 Apr 2012 06:03 AM 
Thanks again Zubi! I will keep all of this in mind when I fire her up for the first time! Do you know what "full" is for this boiler? On the Ruby, I just put 80cc from the syringe in and I am always fine. I believe this engine has a sight glass. Do you fill it so the sight glass is half way? 3/4 way? 
Now, I just need to build my outdoor railroad. The big question I need to answer is DECK or GARDEN... I think I will ask that in a different part of the forum. 
Thanks again!
Jameel 


I built my railroad 'through the garden' because that is what I wanted to do. I wanted a live steam garden railroad. I find most elevated deck type layouts boring. But they are still fun and much of this hobby is interacting with your fellow hobbyist and friends.

As for the K36. Be aware that it has one Achilles heel. The main rod pin is held in place by a tiny allen head set screw. If this screw becomes loose the pin can rotate which throws off your timing big time. The pin can also wobble in the driver and work loose. So be sure and check that this little screw is tight before you run it much. 

The K36 is a BIG engine and very heavy. To transport it you will need some kind of carrier. Enjoy, it's a fun hobby.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Would somebody who has one of these engines or something similar take me through a steam up and run? 
Jameel, 

I will be in FMB after April 18th, and I'd be happy to help you with the K-36. I've been running Accucraft locos for about 10 years, and most work out of the box. 

Want to take a trip over to Andrew's big track - the Tradewinds and Atlantic, in Coral Springs?


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By gigawat on 05 Apr 2012 06:03 AM 
Thanks again Zubi! I will keep all of this in mind when I fire her up for the first time! Do you know what "full" is for this boiler? On the Ruby, I just put 80cc from the syringe in and I am always fine. I believe this engine has a sight glass. Do you fill it so the sight glass is half way? 3/4 way? 
Now, I just need to build my outdoor railroad. The big question I need to answer is DECK or GARDEN... I think I will ask that in a different part of the forum. 
Thanks again!
Jameel 


Jameel, 3/4 if you want a lazy run, or 1/2 if you want to watch the water level and pump some water from time to time. Enjoy! Zubi


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you fill it so the sight glass is half way? 3/4 way? 
Jameel, 

Another way is to fill it all the way then remove 50-80ccs with the syringe. 

Your loco has a blow-down (unlike the Ruby) but it may be from the bottom of the boiler not the top. If it's the top, you can open it while heating up the water and wait until steam comes out (my C-19 works that way.) If it's the bottom, (EBT#12 style) then you use it after a run to remove steam pressure and stop oil being sucked in to the boiler.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Jameel,
See my private message. I think it will help you a lot.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Thanks again to all of you! With every message... I grow more and more impatient! I have read that some people waited years to get theirs... I should have mine on Wednesday! And that feels years away! ;-) 

I plan on taking a ton of pictures of the unwrapping! 

My Ruby ran better in reverse than it did forward, then I carefully did what Dave Hottmann says to do in his beautiful document. 

Will this also be true for the K-36? 


Your messages and support has been so wonderful! Thank you!


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I know you guys are super creative... what is the best way to carry this locomotive to these wonderful layouts? Even the rolling stock? 

I can see the small intricate details of the locomotives and the rolling stock getting damaged just from transporting them around... packing and unpacking them... 

I am thinking about making a nice wood box to carry this in. Does anybody have some good pictures of what they use or what they made?


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

This is what I carry my K-27 and K-28 in, one for each. Only a few dollars worth of materials from Lowe's and a couple of hours to make. The bar across the top of the loco is padded underneath. I tote the tenders in padded, inexpensive plastic tool boxes.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Earlier you were wondering about your K-36 clearing parallel tracks and switch stands. The attached photo clearly shows the difference in sizes between the K-36 (near) K28 (center) and the K-27 (far). Quite a span of sizes.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Wow... Those locomotives are magnificent! They all look gigantic! I wish there was a picture like this with a Ruby in it to really show the size! ;-)


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Now that is awesome! I had something much more complicated in my mind... Thank you for sending these photos! I need to follow the KISS rule! 

Great work!


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't have one next to a Ruby, but here is one of a K-27 (the smallest of the Ks) next to a Roundhouse Billy, which is much wider than a Ruby.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Wow! That Round House is beautiful! This K-36 must be extremely massive!


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Since you're interested in a simple carrier, here is a photo of one of mine without a locomotive in it. I used Lowe's pre-cut poplar and used glue and screws on the all the joints. I placed the wooden 'rails' 45mm apart and the wood provides somewhat of a cushion at the drivers. The straps are stock alluminum from Lowe's and easily bent to shape. They are held on with nuts and bolts, filed smooth on the insice so as to not scratch the loco. The tall handle protects the loco if the carrier does a roll-over, which mine did once with no damage. The rear and top clamps are attached with thumb screws. The top clamp has a round rubber pad underneath at the center. Although the front clamp can be removed, it can also be screwed down since the width of the cab only allows the loco to be inserted front first. I too thought simple was best since a complete box would add considerable weight to an already heavy locomotive. I think the cost of all the materials was about $25 or so.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

That carrier is awesome! Did you ever consider making those to sell?  I would buy one!


I think that will be the first thing I make when my K36 arrives!

Now what do you do about all of your rolling stock? Do you have a plastic tool box for each and every car?

This is really why I want my layout so that I can park my trains inside when I am done! I just have to run one line to the house and cut a hole in the wall! hahaha... My fiance will probably shoot me! I am glad she knew I was nutz before she said YES! ;-)

Happy Holidays!

Jameel


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you ever consider making those to sell? 
Jameel, 

There are several folk selling carriers - they advertise in Garden Railways Magazine. 

Someone posted a thread recently about a simple, inexpensive locomotive carrier, similar to the ones Bigdude65 uses, [ http://4largescale.com/Thompson/40.htm or 4largescale dot com/Thompson/40.htm ] but I can't find the thread. Anyone know what I am talking about?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Now what do you do about all of your rolling stock? 
Here's some ideas: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/115550/afv/topic/Default.aspx [ www dot mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/115550/afv/topic/Default.aspx ] including photos of the wooden boxes that I made to pack the rolling stock into a small space.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

This was what I was thinking about doing... something that could just roll right on to the tracks... VERY VERY NICE!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Jameel, 
For my cars I built an outdoor carbarn that I can park my short trains inside. Seems like every time I carry something, something breaks. 
Before the barn sometimes I'd look at the amount to carry and decide against it... now that choice isn't considered, they are already attached to the layout and it's a switching move to start a train. 
If I had kids/vandals around I'd add a clasp and a lock. 
Mine is only two tracks wide and I used wooden strips for the rails inside and unseen, but when pulled out all the wheels are on the lead track ready to go. I'll still carry the locos, it's hard to leave that much money outside.... but a couple of loco-totes are on mental order once I beat my cancer.... 
My carbarn is in the bushes off the layout proper, but for a single spur leading to it you might over look it. The cedar has gone silvery and blends in with my S Az ground. There have been a couple of barn articles/threads here at mls from fancy to simple. The search engine here is funky... I'd google for them w/ keywords; mls, carbarn. 
Others have cut holes in their homes, but I see the work to fix them later... 

Happy Rails, 
John


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

This is the one I use. Powder-coated steel. Lots of heavy foam padding included. Both ends open and two handles. Optional fitted cloth cover available. A little pricey, but worth it.

http://www.backontrackrr.com/products.aspx

Wide model made for K36's!


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

First, BEAT THAT CANCER! You will be in my prayers! 

I would love to see pictures of what you have done! I think this will be a very important part of what I build. If it is too hard to get everything out to play... I will become lazy and not do it. If it is easy... I will enjoy it more! 

I completely agree... I will break things for sure! I love how detailed everything is... and bending, breaking those details just hurts! 

Happy Holidays! 

Jameel


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

My K36 finally arrived!

It is majestic! 


I can't stop looking at it! 











This really shows you how big the K36 is!











It is so beautiful!

I can't wait to run it!

I can't wait to build a layout for it!

So how far apart should I put two lines of track??? 8" center to center?

What do you guys think?


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## RP3 (Jan 5, 2008)

Not counting the engine's waddling, the K-36 is about 6-1/2" across. And then there's the excess overhang in curves. I'd suggest at least 9" or more if you can provide it. Of course if you never expect to have another K-36 or K-28 sized loco on an adjacent track, then maybe your 8" center spacing will work. Use ground throws -- the Sunset Valley turnouts won't give you enough clearance for upright switchstands unless Pete installs special longer switchstand ties. His standard ones won't clear. 

This is an impressive loco. Enjoy it and give it an equally impressive consist to pull. In case you are interested, there's room in the steam dome for a Bangham whistle and this loco looks great with operating headlight and marker lights. As you can probably tell, it's the favorite in my roundhouse! 

Ross Schlabach


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Thank you for the advice. If I have two racks running side by side, I will shoot for 10" center to center or MORE if possible. I had planned on using LGB track and the LGB switches... Do you think I will have any trouble with that? Anything wrong with using the LGB switches? 

I do want to put lights in... are there any kits for this? Does anybody have some nice close up pictures of how to run the wires and add the lights? I would like to put one in the tender too! Do you guys just use LEDs and a small battery?

Tell me more about the Bangham whistle!!! I used a DJB whistle in my Ruby! But I think since the Ruby is sooo small, it really can't handle more than a couple of toots! It just consumes a lot of steam! 

What other accessories / upgrades have people done to the K36???


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Check out this video: http://youtu.be/YzKwwmUfPYE

On the K28 you can see a whistle that blows down under the locomotive and steam comes out all around... What kind of whistle is that? That looks gorgeous!!! Do they have something like that for the K36? Or is that not prototypical?


I love it!


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 07 Apr 2012 09:05 AM 
Did you ever consider making those to sell? 
Jameel, 

There are several folk selling carriers - they advertise in Garden Railways Magazine. 

Someone posted a thread recently about a simple, inexpensive locomotive carrier, similar to the ones Bigdude65 uses, [ http://4largescale.com/Thompson/40.htm or 4largescale dot com/Thompson/40.htm ] but I can't find the thread. Anyone know what I am talking about? 
Here are a couple of earlier threads that showed loco carriers:
*http://tinyurl.com/7t859ck*
Skip to page 3 
and
*http://tinyurl.com/7l6f8yx*
Go back to page 1 
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Gigawat,I have mounted the Weltyk's Whistle on the Chassie,It is 6 inch Longe.So it would look dume if I mounted it so as You could see it. 
I can not find the clip of the K-36,But here is a K-28.The 36 is a little different and Deaper in sound.But is is also a Chassie Mount


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## Joel779 (Jan 2, 2008)

The K-28 in that video is my butane fired loco. I have installed one of Bob Weltyk's whistles in this engine. The dual chime sounds even better in person. It does take a bit of effort to install the whistle, but it does fit well and has been well worth the price. 

Joel 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Are there any photos of this type of whistle? Photos of the installation? More videos of it? I really like it!


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I just tried turning my K36 throttle lever and found that the lever moves but the shaft does not. 

There is no water in it... no fuel... this is right out of the box... 

Could the set screw in the lever arm be loose? or is the shaft stuck?

Any thoughts?


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

There should be a set screw and tightening it should do the trick. if you loosen the setscrew and slide the lever out and you should see a flat spot on the valve shaft. the set screw should tighten against that.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a video of my K-27 with one of Bob Weltyk's dual chime chassis mount whistles. It sounds more robust in person than in the video. It is a good, reliable system.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=L78qXJDIwv4


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gigawat on 11 Apr 2012 11:32 PM 
I just tried turning my K36 throttle lever and found that the lever moves but the shaft does not. 

There is no water in it... no fuel... this is right out of the box... 

Could the set screw in the lever arm be loose? or is the shaft stuck?

Any thoughts? 



Jameel,
If that's the only problem, you will be a lucky guy. These are complicated beasts and not mass-produced.

> Could the set screw in the lever arm be loose? or is the shaft stuck?[/i]

Both ! The set screw is probably loose - but the shaft could be stuck - too tightly closed.

You can turn the throttle when there is no steam. It has an O-ring on the shaft but the whole thing comes out if you just keep un-screwing it [anti-clockwise, as if you are opening the throttle.] If you keep un-screwing, eventually it stops coming out as it comes off the end of the thread, but still feels tight - that's the O-ring. At that point you can just pull it out. Try to be carefull with the O-ring when you put it back.

I don't know if your throttle shaft has a flat on it for the set screw. It may have - and the screw isn't on the flat. Stick a hex key in the set screw and un-screw it so the lever comes off - then put it back and tighten the set screw. Try opening the throttle [anti-clockwise.] It may give you some resistance and then suddenly start to move.

If it is still stuck, you could grab the shaft in a pair of pliers and force it. HOWEVER I have never seen one that wouldn't move just by turning the lever. If you can't make it move after you tighten the set-screw, I would call CLiff at Accucraft and have a chat with him. He is very knowledgeable about these kind of start-up issues.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gigawat on 11 Apr 2012 08:44 PM 
Thank you for the advice.  If I have two racks running side by side, I will shoot for 10" center to center or MORE if possible.  I had planned on using LGB track and the LGB switches...  Do you think I will have any trouble with that?  Anything wrong with using the LGB switches?  
 
I do want to put lights in... are there any kits for this?  Does anybody have some nice close up pictures of how to run the wires and add the lights?  I would like to put one in the tender too!  Do you guys just use LEDs and a small battery?
 
Tell me more about the Bangham whistle!!!  I used a DJB whistle in my Ruby!  But I think since the Ruby is sooo small, it really can't handle more than a couple of toots!  It just consumes a lot of steam!  
 
What other accessories / upgrades have people done to the K36???


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gigawat on 11 Apr 2012 11:32 PM 
I just tried turning my K36 throttle lever and found that the lever moves but the shaft does not. 

There is no water in it... no fuel... this is right out of the box... 

Could the set screw in the lever arm be loose? or is the shaft stuck?

Any thoughts? 



The throttle being stuck is a common problem with many locos. If the throttle was closed tightly while hot and then allowed to cool the thermal contraction of the brass body and stainless steel needle valve can be such that they sieze. When the boiler heats up the next time the parts will again loosen and all will be okay.

Of course, that is little solice to the new owner wanting to see if everything works!

To just get it loose you can try heating the valve body a wee bit with a (clean) soldering iron or (carefully) pour boiling water on it (obviously do this over a sink or outside where the hot water will not be a problem on other things (it can be hard on the formal dining room mahogany table's finish and of course, holding the loco in your lap while doing this is not a good idea either!))

You can also, if you have lots of fortitude and patience, wait until the first steam up before you panic about it being stuck... again, hard for the newbie to do! (and not all that easy for the seasoned Steam Engineer, either!)

"Next time" after a run, close the throttle like you would expect to do to stop the engine, and after a bit of cooling has taken place, open some other valve to release pressure (DO NOT remove a fill plug or safety valve as it will blow sky-high out of your hands and boiling water WILL gush out!.. and you will spend an hour on your hands and knees looking for the plug!), and then open the throttle a bit. The reason to open some other valve is so that during cooling a vacuum is not formed that will pull oil from the lubricator through the throttle back into the boiler. If there are no other valves to open, remove the cap from the steam oil reservoir and then crack open the throttle. Steam will escape from the reservoir and blow residual steam out of the steam line opening and when the vacuum forms in the boiler it will not suck oil back.

Opening the throttle a wee bit during the cooling will keep it from siezing as the metals contract in cooling.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

open some other valve to release pressure (DO NOT remove a fill plug or safety valve 
Looking at your photos, at the bottom of the sight glass is a pipe going over to the floor. Through the floor is a valve - that's your 'blowdown', and will release the pressure in the boiler after you turn off the flame. 

As mentioned above (and on many other threads,) you do not want to let the boiler cool down without opening something, or it will suck oil from the lubricator into the boiler. [It's not clear anyone admits to having done this, or that it was a problem, but anyway...] 
If you open the blowdown on a nic e cool day, you get some atmospheric effects:


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I do want to put lights in... are there any kits for this? Does anybody have some nice close up pictures of how to run the wires and add the lights? I would like to put one in the tender too! Do you guys just use LEDs and a small battery? 
Questions, always Questions . . 

A frequent solution is to change the hand rails for hollow tubing - e.g. hypodermic tubing. Then you can run very thin wire from a battery in the cab, or from the r/c in the tender. (How come you haven't asked about radio control yet ?) See the thread "A great deal on hollow handrail" http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx . 

Here's some pics of Larry's loco wired for lighting: *picasaweb dot google dot com/vtgrsociety/WiringEBT12ForHeadlampLighting?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOXW893p09CuigE&feat=directlink* [ picasaweb dot google dot com/vtgrsociety/WiringEBT12ForHeadlampLighting?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOXW893p09CuigE&feat=directlink ]


Kevin recently posted photos of his EBT #12 with lighting. http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/afv/topic/aff/8/aft/123633/Default.aspx [www dot mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/afv/topic/aff/8/aft/123633/Default.aspx ] 











You will probably find some more examples if you search using the "site:mylargescale.com " prefix on google.

P.S. Check your email.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

On my second run of the K 36 I experienced a burner problem.

One burner doesn't want to stay lit. I removed the jets and blew them out with my air compressor. I reassembled it making sure the correct jets stayed with the correct jet holders and was placed in the correct burners. I noticed the same problem. Then I pulled the jet holder out of the burner and rotated it 180 degrees so that the left is on the right and the right is on the left. That showed me that the problem is not with the jet, but within the burner. The same burner showed problems. I have taken a video of what happens: http://youtu.be/3XqY-zdYO8E

You will see that the burner will get red and then start to flutter. Then it goes out. I can re-light it, but it happens again. This video was taken inside my home so there is no wind affecting it. Also, notice that the smoke box door is open in the video and it still goes out. 

I have loosened the collar screw on that burner and moved the collar around a bit and it had no improvement. Right now the collars are in the stock position which is wide open allowing maximum amount of oxygen into the burner. 


I took the locomotive over to my bench where I have shop air and then blew out the burner. I thought it improved things, but it still went out, and that is when I took the video. 

What do you think is happening here?

Thanks for your help!


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I am NOT a gas man, so I don't know if all the Accucraft double burners are the same design! 
So, I can't remember if I read this, or whether it was someone local to me, but seem to recall someone having a problem with a bad solder joint in the 'T', which would not allow an equal amount of gas to go to the two burners. 
You might want to test it out of the loco maybe with air to see if the same amount is coming out of both. 
Like I said, I don't remember where I heard that. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I just had a great conversation with Dave Hottmann! He helped me go step by step through my K-36 burner problem... 

We think we have it solved! I need to run it a few times to see if it is 100% solved.... 

All I had to do was use warm - hot water in the tender! The fuel pressure went up... the flame was outside the burners.... and it burns nice and smooth! 

I will keep you posted!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

All I had to do was use warm - hot water in the tender! 
Very interesting - maybe your a/c was on too high! It's warm enough outdoors where you are.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 09 May 2012 05:23 PM 
All I had to do was use warm - hot water in the tender! 
Very interesting - maybe your a/c was on too high! It's warm enough outdoors where you are.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Igiveup


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

This site is so screwed up. It delets my posts and then post them multiple times.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I am not convinced having warm - hot water in the tender is the 100% solution. I think it is helping overcome the main problem...


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

gigawat, I don't know what our problem is without seeing the engine. But...........ALL Accucraft engines that have the fuel tank in the tender need water around the tank to stabilize the butane regardless of the outside temperature. As the butane flows the tank cools and freezes up thus reducing the flow of butane. Other than that, the only thing I can think of is clogged jets and the adjusting rings. Another tip that Dave should have told you about is, after filling the tank, bleed of any surplus liquid butane by depressing the filler valve until only gas flows. This keeps liquid butane from entering the jet and the burner, makes it easier to light, and reduces the chance of the jet becoming clogged.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

Thank you Frank and thank you to all of the great help I have received! You guys really make this hobby fun! I have been following what you said Frank and last night (4th run) it ran really really nicely! I think the super heater is too close and I plan on bending it away slightly. 

I timed my tank filling... From a completely empty tank, it took a brand new 7.76 fuel canister (asian grocery) 3 minutes 30 seconds to completely fill (a little liquid gas squirted out of the vent). I vented the liquid out and added warm water to the tender. Then lit the burners! She ran great!!!

Since this tank is so large and it consumes almost one full canister of fuel, wouldn't it be great if we could just use the fuel canister as is? I wish I could just put the fuel canister in a box car or something and connect that directly to the jet y pipe to feed the jets. Has anybody done this before? I thought I saw a picture of somebody who did that! 

I can use one of those regulators from a camping stove to control the fuel flow. That would make this so much faster!

Here is the latest video of the K-36 running with some train cars! You can see at one end of the track I have an 8 foot diameter curve and at the other end I have the LGB R5 (15 foot 6.5 inch diameter) The K-36 LOVES the R5!!!! 

http://youtu.be/dEpwaBoy-uA


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Glad you got it working.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

All I had to do was use warm - hot water in the tender! The fuel pressure went up... the flame was outside the burners.... and it burns nice and smooth! 
Guys, 

Thinking about this problem, it seems to me that using the 'standard' gas valve to feed a dual-flue, dual-burner boiler is just plain inadequate? If the flow of gas is restricted (not enough gas under pressure to keep two burners happy,) then increasing the pressure will force more gas through the restriction and it will burn better. 

My thought would be to add a second gas valve by putting a "T" in the pipe from the tank, then splitting the burners and using one of each valve. Any thoughts?


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I think there is still some more tinkering to do... but that is the fun right??? 

Thank you to everyone! You guys makes this hobby fun!

Best Regards,

Jameel


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, you guys know how to complicate the heck out of anything. The Accucraft dual burners work just fine. You just need a water bath around the butane tank. All my engines with dual burners generate too much steam including the K36. I have to turn them down to keep the safety from lifting constantly.


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## gigawat (Apr 4, 2012)

I noticed the exact same thing on the last run. The safety kept blowing.... I tried to turn down the fuel, but that is when I started losing burners. So right now... My fuel valves OFF position points straight down. When I light it up, I have the fuel valve at 80 - 90 degrees. When it warms up I try to push it down to 75-80... and that is when I start to get the rumbles sometimes... and then I lose a burner. 
This is with the water bath. 

If I understand this correctly, if I run an axle pump so the fresh water keeps going into the boiler, that should cool things off a little... Do you think that would help? 

Do you run axle pumps on any of your big 2 burner locomotives? Does it help? 

Do you have to turn on / shut off the axle pump flow so that it doesn't over fill the boiler? Is that even possible? I have never seen an axle pump work before. I am very curious. 


HAPPY MOTHERS DAY to all of the MOMs out there!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you run axle pumps on any of your big 2 burner locomotives 
Jameel, 

It is pretty difficult to retrofit an axle pump on a loco like yours. Lots of plumbing (bypass valves, etc.,) and the problem of locating it and putting an eccentric on the axle. 

You have a hand pump. Maybe you stop at every station (like the prototype) and pump some water in! You can try it, which will tell you if it makes any difference. You can also use a servo-driven pump if you ever add r/c. 

Do you have to turn on / shut off the axle pump flow so that it doesn't over fill the boiler? Is that even possible? 
That's what the bypass valve does. It diverts a certain % of the flow back to the tender. The trick is working out where to set it.


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