# Bachmann 2-6-6-2 and Aristo 2.4 ghz remote



## MRLdave (Dec 15, 2011)

I've found some good info on installing remote in the 2-6-6-2, but none have quite answered my question. Is it possible to install the Aristo RX board into the pnp socket in the Bachmann ? Secondly, is it then possible to hook a battery pack(s) to the battery terminals on the bachmann board to offer either track or battery power using the bachmann switch. I don't have a track of my own, so I operate on several other peoples layouts, and of course they all use different setups, so I want to keep as many options open as possible. I also run with an NTRAK club, and the club uses Aristo throttles, so I'm very familiar with their system, which is why I'm specifying that in my question. Thanks for any help.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Yes, and yes. The Aristo receiver will plug right into the socket. Then hook the batteries up to the terminals and you're "all set." Now, there are some additional things to keep in mind. 

First, if you're going to permanently install the batteries into the loco, you'll want to put a charging jack somewhere in there. Otherwise, you'll want to use some sort of 2-pin connector to the battery terminals on the board so you can then take the battery pack in and out for charging. 

Second, when you say you're also looking to run on track power, are you thinking running on "traditional" track power, using a "traditional" throttle, or using the track to supply the needed power to run the Aristo receiver and using your own transmitter to run? In the case of the former, you'll merely need to pull the Aristo receiver out and replace it with the stock "dummy" plug, flip the switch to "track," and you're all set. If the latter, you'll want to consider two things... First, make sure the power supply that's feeding the track outputs a linear voltage. The Aristo receiver needs that to work properly. Second, consider installing the so-called "cap board" to the receiver. This compensates for momentary losses in power which also tends to freak the Aristo board out. 

Good luck! 

Later, 

K


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## MRLdave (Dec 15, 2011)

Thanks........I have one friend who runs his trains battery/remote, another runs DC, and the local club has a modular loop that gets set up in the mall, ect that runs DC, but only one train at a time runs....we take turns so each person man's the layout for an hour or 2 at a time.....so I hoped to run on the modular by cranking up the DC, and then using the remote to control the train, and on the other 2 layouts to run using batteries, or the layout that runs remote IS wired to run DC, so if I provide track power, I could run remote without the batteries while my friend runs on batteries. I was keeping the "swap the original board back" in the back of my mind....just in case I want to run DC. I haven't decided on loco batteries, a battery car, or maybe both. I don't like the idea of totally changing the wiring if I can do the same thing using plug and play.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I think you'll find that even with the ability to run off of track power, you'll probably end up just using batteries. I wired two locos like that with the same thought--that I could run them on track power at shows--but never used the feature. I get 3 - 4 hours off of a 2600 mAh Li-Ion battery pack, and since I rarely run more than that at a show (so not to hog the track), I ended up just gutting the track pickups. It's been a while since I've had the 2-6-6-2 open, but I'd quite imagine you can get a 5200 mAh pack in there without any issues whatsoever. And, as you state, you can easily just swap the dummy board back in and run off of the track power anyway. 

As for whether to put the batteries in the loco or a trailing car, definitely put them in the loco. Trailing cars were a necessary evil 20 years ago when the batteries were much larger, but with today's technology, they'll fit in almost any large scale locomotive. It's simply an antiquated notion that has no real benefit. Yeah, if you've got a fleet of dozens of locos, it's cheaper just to buy one R/C rig and put it in a trailing car, but you'll still be going into each locomotive to modify them to take power from the trail car. It's only a few extra steps to add a receiver and battery. That, and if the loco has a plug-and-play socket, the work's already done for you, and it's arguably more work to get things to work from a trailing car to the same features a fully on-board installation would give you. 

Later, 

K


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## MRLdave (Dec 15, 2011)

Again, I'm trying to keep lots of options open..........You are probably right about using battery power most of the time. I haven't explored batteries too much yet. Saw an option on this sight for 2 7.2v packs located in the water tanks, one on each side, I assume wired in series. My worry is I'm not sure how big a power hog this Bachmann will be and if the batteries I can fit in the 2-6-6-2 will give resonable life.......I have a couple other engines I'll probably convert to remote too, and one of them (small switcher) will definitely need a battery car. So my hope is to match the voltage in the battery car to the voltage I install in the loco, and then have a jack on the loco, wired in parrallel to loco batteries so I can use the battery car to get longer run times. I definitely like the option of NOT having the battery car hooked to the loco for most situations. Thanks for your help.........I've been modeling in N scale for quite a few years, but G scale is a whole different ball game, which at this point I'm enjoying, but it's a whole new bunch of options.....you never worry about remote control or batteries with N scale, although our NTrak club uses Aristo remotes (controlling track, not loco) for operation.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave... To throw another option into the pot....









I left the original PNP board in the 2-6-6-2, wired a 2 pin All-Electronics plug into the battery input on the board, ran it out the back of the locomotive so it could be used with a battery car that has the REVOLUTION receiver, battery and sound in it. Then just change the battery/track switch on the board to run either way...

May not be what all folks would do, but it works great so the battery/sound car can be used for a number of steam locomotives...


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, Dave...I suspect I'm that friend you referred to in the second post. Welcome aboard. I'd listen to Kevin and Stan--they both give sound advice. 

Kevin: Have you ever posted or published a "how to" on converting the 2-6-6-2?

Steve


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Kevin: Have you ever posted or published a "how to" on converting the 2-6-6-2? 
I have not. I've had one open for testing and evaluation purposes, but I've not converted one myself as yet. 

Later, 

K


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

I have converted 4 of them to battery R/C now.
Although *THIS *shows how I did it with my older RCS stuff, the basic method of doing it would be much the same with any PnP system.
During Feb Tony Weber will be bringing his 2-6-6-2T to me for an update on the install with the latest RCS # PRO-PnP R/C. We will make a new videos on how to do it as well as write up the install with pics.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, I've seen your conversions, Tony, and they are sweet! 
Steve


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