# sharp curves



## jehanna (Sep 30, 2009)

I do hope the no question too stupid applies because as a rank beginner to G scale I have a couple of dillies. I have searched the archives and got bogged down in information I did not need (yet?)
I am at the point of thinking about track layout. I have about 150 feet of straight mixed LBG and aristo but I am run over with the small radius curves. I do know they will not work with the larger

trains. What I am trying to find out is how much I can get away with. Can I use one or two between several feet of straight? I don't suppose there is any way to lessen the angel. I have some

8' radius to use also. I just hate to waste the 4'.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't know what kind of engines you are going to run. I would try and stick with 4 foot radius. You can go smaller but it 
kind of limits you to the type of engines you can run.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Get a track bender and you can rebend them to a softer curve... or join MLS and sell them with a classified ad here and buy what you need.... 

The four footers that came with the starter set are still in the shed as I had no use for it! 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That "trick" does not really work well. The curved parts are still sharp, and in most cases, it makes it worse, because you are jerking your rolling stock from straight to a sharp curve and back again. 

If you have the room, then by all means invest in a rail bender to re-bend the curves. The dual rail benders are unbelievably easy to use, and will bend anything, and both rails at the same time while still in the tie strips. 

The best one is the Train-Li one, but there are others almost as good for less. You might also see if there is a club nearby that you could join and borrow theirs. 

I used one to custom bend Aristo stainless 332 rail and it took longer for me to set up how I could measure the curve than to bend the track. 

Regards, Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Or, join a local club that already has a rail bender that you can use. Both of the local garden railway clubs I belong to have rail benders for member's use.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Can't say that the following wouldn't be an expensive up-front investment, but it would provide you with the capability of restructuring the track curvature to whatever you need.

EasyBend DuoTrakTM[/b]


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Oh... in large scale we use Diameters not radius... so your 8'diam. is really 4'r 

Confused yet? 

No gain using them in between straights un less you chop them real short, but not worth the trouble and it wouldn't look right anyway. 

Don't worry about the validity of your questions, we all had to start somewhere! 

John


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## jehanna (Sep 30, 2009)

Thanks so much, That is what I needed to know. I will invest in the rail bender, I will probably need it anyway. 
Yes I am confused but I will get over it in time. You are right, it does look funny and I see now the angel is the same. I have 2 small LBG and 2 Bachman, a white pass set and another big hauler engine and tender. They are the ones I am concerned about the curves, The little LBG rolls right around them.


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Also because you are a member here, if you call Axle at TrainLi EasyBend DuoTrakTM[/b] You will get a 10% discount for being a member of this the best train site on the web. 10% should help ease the cost a little. Train Li bender IS the best bender on the market..


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That Train-LI bender really works well. I have one and I used it to turn a bunch of 2 ft R1 curves into straight tracks for a siding. You can bend them into anything, 



On curves, see my thread about "overhang." You always always want to have the widest curves possible.Lots of stuff will run on, say, and * foot curve, but it won't look good doing it. 


But you can also make a really great railroad using small, tight curves. My favorite example is the


Daisy Beach RR 

It's a good idea to start with the "story" your layout is telling. Is it a narrow gauge mining operation? A standard gauge local branch line? A mainline passenger line? etc etc. Sorting out the "story" helps narrow down the options and makes things work together better


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## jehanna (Sep 30, 2009)

10% is a lot off that expensive little guy, I will call. I live with engineers and have long ago learned buying quality tools is never a bad investment.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 30 Sep 2009 10:59 AM 
Oh... in large scale we use Diameters not radius... 

Some of us do, some don't. Many of us who came "up" from the smaller scales still speak radius. Not an issue if the method is always stated.
Personally, I refuse to refer to my track curvature as diameter, because my trains don't go around in circles.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I came up from the smaller scales only using radius, but I gave up and talked diameter, it was just a constant battle and endless set of misunderstandings. 

Now, I always put diameter or radius whenever I talk curves... it helps, but what a mess... I guess it all started with LGB, let's blame them! ha ha! 

Greg


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

I have 2 small LBG and 2 Bachman, a white pass set and another big hauler engine and tender. They are the ones I am concerned about the curves, The little LBG rolls right around them. 


Everything you list there should be able to handle the R1 (4 foot diameter, 2 foot radius) curves with no problem. The big haulers would do a bit better on R2 (five foot diameter, 2.5 foot radius) curves, but that is not an absolute requirement.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Because I was a tool and die maker in my other life before retirement, I always cringe when I hear folks talking about a curve as diameter, not radius. You just need to learn the difference and where it is applicable.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Just one of those garden variety oddities. Other model railroaders talk about the radius, while we talk about the diameter. Also, in the garden, + is on the left and - on the right, while other model railroaders put + on the right. 

As I answered an accusing NMRA representitive, "Just hard-headed, I guess."


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing to keep in mind is what direction will your RR go in the future. Larger locos? Then you need larger curves so plan ahead. Later RJD


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## jehanna (Sep 30, 2009)

Once I know what I am doing I am putting it down to stay so I will try to do it right. Now that I know I can use a bender to ease out all these (12 tracks make a 4 foot circle) I will make less drastic curves from them.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By aceinspp on 01 Oct 2009 06:06 AM 
One thing to keep in mind is what direction will your RR go in the future. 

Depends on the polarity! (Sorry, I couldn't resist - see Torby's post above.)


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

I haven’t done this, but I think you can. 

Your straight bits of LGB track can be made into curves with the track bender mentioned above, I think some cutting of plastic webbing which holds the ties in place is needed to allow the ties to move. 

Also the curves can be made into straights. This will almost free you up to make anything from the track you have. 

I’m I right guys? 

Thanks 
Alan


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, you can bend curves into straights and straights into curves with a dual bender. You need to remove the track joiners and cut some of the webbing between the ties if you do an extreme bend. Sometimes I just remove the joiners, sometimes I need to cut a few of the webs between the ties


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