# Scratch built D&RGW style water tank



## Alan Prichard (Dec 27, 2007)

I plan on building the early twentieth century version with the octagonal roof. I found a website with good pics of constructing one in O gauge, but it has no dimensions, prototypical or otherwise. Has anyone built one that might have dimensions? the only resource I could find online that had plans wanted twenty bucks for a set, and money is just too tight right now. If I have to, I'll just swag it from pictures. Wouldn't be the first time.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Just off the top of my head, from what I have seen, the Chama double-spout tower (which is one of the D&RGW's largest) modeled approximately 18" in diameter. Go from a photograph for the other dimensions and you should be pretty close to what you want. I modeled a small tank which came out to 9½" diameter (for a round roofed tank.) :


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan

It's not specific to D&RGW but it is turn of the century prototype c. 1893, maybe it will be of some help.

Buildings & Structures of American Railway PDF 2.66MB[/b]


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alan, 

I built my water tank around a paint bucket of 2 gallon capacity Its not D&RGW but here are some water tank sizes on the DSP 

lack Hawk - 16'ht x 16'dia 
Smith Hill - 14'ht x 20'dia 
Forks Creek - 16'ht x 20'dia 
Alma - 16'ht x 24'dia 
Garos - 12'ht x 16'dia (2 tanks, same for both) 
Como - 16'ht x 24' dia (2 tanks, same for both) 
Jefferson - 16'ht x 24'dia 
Webster - 14'ht x 20'dia 
Shawnee - 16'ht x 24'dia 
Crossons - 14'ht x 20'dia 
Buffalo - 16'ht x 20'dia 
Dome Rock - 16'ht x 24'dia 
Waterton - 16'ht x 24'dia 
Sheridan Junction - 16'ht x 24'dia 


I have a drawing of the DSP ones, that is in the book 'Structures of the Early West', be aware that 'scale' tanks are large. 

Here is a photo of mine with a Bachmann Climax for size










Good luck with your building.


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Alan Prichard on 30 Jun 2011 03:21 PM 
I plan on building the early twentieth century version with the octagonal roof. I found a website with good pics of constructing one in O gauge, but it has no dimensions, prototypical or otherwise. Has anyone built one that might have dimensions? the only resource I could find online that had plans wanted twenty bucks for a set, and money is just too tight right now. If I have to, I'll just swag it from pictures. Wouldn't be the first time. 
Alan - I scratch built a water tower a few years back - my photos and notes may help you out - have a look:

Water Tower


The plans that I used are here: Plans  


It turned out very well.

dave


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## Alan Prichard (Dec 27, 2007)

As I expected from the good people of MLS, lots of great responses here. Thanks Steve for the PDF, while it does not refer to DRGW, there is a tank there that looks close enough to the octagonal roof tank to be of use. Steve and Peter, thanks for the pics, they help alot. I did find that website, and while it's the earlier tank with the round roof, the base at least seems the same so it will help. As usual when I do such a project, I will exploit all available resources. 

Thanks again Steve for the valuable document. It goes into specifics about board dimensions, which will be of great value for getting it right. I can't wait to start this project and will post a pic or two when done.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alan, 

There are some more construction photos of you are interested. The construction is all plastic by the way with PVC solid foam (Sintra board) and styrene.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan

Here are a couple of topics posted by Jack Thompson back in the old forum software, which I saved in PDF format that you might find of interest.

Victorian Water Tower - PDF[/b]

Wind Powered Pumphouse - PDF[/b]


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## K.A.Simpson (Mar 6, 2008)

Great wind powered pumphouse. Has anyone have plans or ideas to make the windmill actually pump water? It would go great on my pond to circulate the water. 
Cheers from Andrew 
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway


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## Alan Prichard (Dec 27, 2007)

*Better late than never...*

I built the tank but didn't post pics. I spent the day renovating my water tank that had been sitting in my garden for at least five years, a little worse for wear. I got a lot of valuable info here to construct it, and promised to post a pic of the finished tank. Well here it is. There is nothing like genuine weathering.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking tank! What dimensions did you end up with?


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## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

*D&RGW Standard tank dimensions*

For any who are interested...

A standard D&RGW 50,000 gal water tank was 24' at the base and 16' tall. There was a 14" taper from bottom to top. This was because the original bands were non adjustable and made in various but specific sizes. When slipped over the top, they would sit in proper places as the tank got larger.

The Staves (vertical boards) that made up the tanks were 6" x 3" boards tapered on two dimensions. 1 degree on each side, from the outside in, and about .05 degree from top to bottom. Later tanks were not tapered vertically, and only needed boards to be tapered from outside to inside...

The tanks would be set on different height legs depending if it serviced standard or narrow gauge tracks, and if it was on a plane higher, even with, or lower than those tracks. Most of the legs were 12" x 12" posts and caps with 10" x 2" 10"x 3" ore 12" x 3" cross bracing. I have seen evidence of 14 x 12 and up to 15 x 15 inch legs. Most of the "bents" sat on either raw ground, cut up 3 foot pieces of railroad tie, or cast concrete blocks. 

Most of the early (1800's to 1900's) were set on a different type of frame, resembling more of a bridge bent than a water tank frame. Many were rebuilt multiple times throughout the years, some were rarely touched, while some were completely replaced with water columns. 

Paint colors were usually one of two. Early tanks were all panted a box car red, with black highlights. Some of the latter tanks got painted with the Depot Buff and Brown. Roof materials were usually wooden shingles, with a portion of tanks having them replaced with 2' x 4' galvanized sheets.

If I can figure out my login info, (I have even reapplied and the server was not responding) I can post a couple pics of the tower my brother and I built representing the Cumbres tank (1881 - 1941). 

Casey


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## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

Here is a quick pic of the water tower my brother, Cody, and I built. It represents Cumbres, Colorado, from 1937 to 1941 when the water column was added.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)




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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I get it about the tank increasing in size from the top down, letting you drop the bands from the top and the taper allows clearance to get "down" to the proper position.

But your model shows adjustable bands it seems. or are the lower bands just how they welded them together and the adjustable one have the bigger "lump" near the top?

Nice model and informative post.

Greg - 13


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,

The D&RG used both rods and straps for tank bands. There was not rhyme or reason as to why they used one or the other. It looks like the lower bands connectors are the adjusters for the rods and the upper ones are for the bands. Could be wrong of course since I did not build it.

Just want to take this chance to say goodbye before you leave. Good luck in the future and (to quote a quote) "thanks for all the fish".


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Interesting, from a person who knows nothing, it would seem that the bands would be capable of more tension than the rods, but I see the rods on the bottom, where the greatest pressure should be.

Doing a bit more research, after looking at a number of real tanks, it seemed the norm was rods or bands, but not a mix.

Greg - 5


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## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

*Re water tower bands*

I have replied to this message at least two other times, my login info keeps messing up. 

The original bands on most all water towers were flat steel riveted together in sections. They were non adjustable and made in increasingly larger diameters to fit the taper of the tank. 

As the tanks got older, the wood would shrink, or the steel would stretch. This caused the non adjustable bands to sag and sometimes fall off. In some cases, the towers were rebuilt using all adjustable bands, usually of the same type (flat or round). In other instances when the tank was still usable, adjustable bands were added to help support the existing bands. Sometimes this was done more than once, and in the case of the Cumbres tower, there were 4 different band styles before it was finally replaced. 

Our tower represents the final few years before the D&RGW replaced it with a water column. There are 8 non adjustable bands from the bottom to the middle. Most of which are between the six round adjustable bands at the bottom. Just above the mid line is a single small flat adjustable band, with four large adjustable bands at the top.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

*scratch built water tank*

Didn't follow and particular plans just ideas for a lot of pictures and how it looked next to rolling stock.







Built the tank out of PVC lumber for the support legs, 6" PVC pipe for the tank, made the spout from stretched CVPC pipe, bands for copper wire, support cables are coat hanger with nuts glued on and top is from a old bird feeder cut down. The weather vane is from Hobby Lobby and holds it all together. Fun project, Bill


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)




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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)




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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Looks good


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