# Pneumatic actuators and switch stands together



## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I have SVRR switches and I am planning on using their pneumatic actuators. Does anyone know if their cast brass switch stand can somehow be mounted on top of the actuator and made to reflect the position of the switch? Here are the ones I'm talking about, listed under Accessories, about halfway down the page.


I’m guessing that the answer is a possible yes after some linkage is created that moves the stand at the same time as the actuator. This assumes that the stand has minimal friction and the actuator is powerful enough to move both the switch and the stand together.


This is for an indoor layout so the usual concerns about outdoor environmental issues should be moot.


Thanks.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, you might put a second wire from the throwbar to the switch stand, but you need to be sure that the stand won't lock and jam up the mechanism. 

Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

You will need to disable the handle that moves the switch stand. Otherwise it will lock the switch stand in whatever position it is set to.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll just have to buy one and try it. What could possibly go wrong?


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I just took a look at one of the spares I have. It looks like you could just cut away the brass section that sticks out between the two locking positions. Should be easy.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By **** Habilis on 27 Jul 2013 08:11 AM 
Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll just have to buy one and try it. What could possibly go wrong? 

They create too much bind and keep the turnout from throwing all the way all the time. I have the LGB turn-out lanterns on my turnouts and every one of them is disconnected from the drive (but the lamps still work) because of the undue friction and jamming.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The pneumatic actuators have significantly more torque than your electric switch motors. 

They also have more overtravel, i.e. full force applied even at the "end" of the turnout throw. 

Regards, Greg


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Thanks again for sharing your experience. I'll invest the $25 for one, I only have six switches, so if it doesn't work I'll have a nice piece of non-functional equipment. Heck, I may end up with six non-functional ones since I really like the look of them.

Mark


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Mark,
Also take a look at the one made by Accucraft. Same basic design but a little shorter. Greg is right about the torque. That should not be a problem. I have both the older style air motors and the newer ones from Sunset Valley. My Sunset Valley motors have benn installed outside now for about two years with no problems. I haven't tried them with the switch stands but I think once you figure out the linkage they should work fine.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Paul:

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Mark


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

One more thing to consider.

When I have a derailment, 9 times out of 10 it is at a turnout, usually because something is fouling the points/frog/guard rails/etc. The LGB switch lanterns are made to easily pop off of the base and come apart and go back together, and this is the norm when there is a derailment at a turnout as you collect the pieces of the aftermath.

Can you make your stand capable of taking a hit by an 8+ pound locomotive at speed?


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I doubt that I'll ever have a derailment since my track work is flawless!







But it is something that I'll keep in mind, thanks.


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