# TRACK Opinion's Needed



## Dreamtalker (Dec 27, 2007)

Which TRACK is the most if not, the best weather resistant Track with UV protection and outdoor wear? I have heard about tabs break off or ties crack and break as well. putting down new track as I'm sure your all aware this is costly, but I want something to last and last a long time for the money! Majority of the track will be in direct sunlight and very little shade. I have heard USA & Aristo will not stand behind their track! True or False. Need some strong opinion's


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Welcome Terry, 
I use Aristo's Stainless steel track. Has been in full Arizona sun for 5 years and is still flexible enough to reset the 'spikes' after a critter has pulled a tie off the rail. That happens after a rain has washed out ballast. 
I have no complaints. I have noticed that the plastic used on the switches stays a darker black than the rest of the ties. Also there is no 'wood grain' on the switch ties. 

That said, if I were starting out. I'd look into the smaller code 250 rails offered by other suppliers, I don't want to goof their names, but soon others will give you links... 

There is a known problem with things from China; based on the Cheaper is Better mantra, suppliers find ways to give themselves raises by substituting cheaper ingredients, unbeknownst to the manufacturer. 

John


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Huh??? 2 threads???


----------



## Dreamtalker (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks John for your opinion, leaning ever so close to LGB and used lots and it cost nowhere near the price of new. I used to have LGB track 20 years ago. Just moved back too California from Camp Verde AZ retired now and ready to lay track soon. I don't have a problem with the euro ties close enough for government work...lol


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, 2 threads... many more responses here: 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/120382/afv/topic/Default.aspx 

Tip: don't put the same question in multiple forums in hopes of getting more responses, you'll just po the people helping you.. and you do a disservice to yourself and others by splitting the responses into 2 different places.


----------



## York Santa Fe (Feb 2, 2011)

Hi Terry

I have had great results with Aristocraft Stainless Steel track. It has been down for six years in my Maine outdoor layout with no problems. I have 400 feet of track and seven air operated switches and it has never had to be cleaned. I have used their 10 foot diameter curves along with their wide radius switches which are also 10 foot diameter on the divergent side. If you can, try to stay with at least 10 foot diameter curves since that will allow virtually all powered units and rolling stock to navigate well. Stainless track, some years ago, was considerably more expensive than brass track but due to the fact that the price of copper has risen dramatically, which is one of the elements in brass, the percentage price differential is much less. Some folks will argue that brass track conducts electricity much better than stainless but at the recent convention in York PA, the owner of Aristocraft, Lewis Polk, said that stainless is 90% as efficient as brass in conductivity. I would also highly recommend the use of rail clamps, in my case I used Split Jaw clamps. The use of rail clamps provides much better electrical conductivity and again in my case I only have one power connection for the 400 feet of track. Aristocraft stainless track is only offered in USA tie spacing which is 14 ties per foot vs. 11 ties per foot with the European style. I also believe that Aristocraft has a 5 year guarantee on their track. Have fun, it is a great hobby.

Ralph


----------



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Dreamtalker on 05 May 2011 08:44 AM 
I have heard USA & Aristo will not stand behind their track! True or False. Need some strong opinion's 

I have used a lot of LGB brass and Aristo stainless steel track. Comparing track is sort of an apples and oranges situation.

While I have never had to replace any LGB ties, I once did have to replace Aristo-Craft ties. It took awhile (Aristo-Craft was out of stock of replacement ties at the time) but one day I came home and there were boxes and boxes of Aristo-Craft replacement ties - under warranty. I have not had the need to replace any Aristo-Craft ties since then.

I think European ties are stronger - just because they are bigger - but the stainless track comes with US styled ties and I have no concerns about either other than strength. 

If I were younger I would probably have stayed with brass track (it does not involve that much maintenance since my main maintenance has always been having to remove twigs, leaves etc. from the track). 

Now that I am older and less flexible I have redone one layout with Aristo-Craft stainless steel track but the former LGB brass track is still perfectly usable and will have a new life somewhere else.

I prefer the thick standard rails but others have valid reasons for preferring other track. Good arguments can be made for any track - it mainly depends on what someone is wanting to do with it and what their preferences and finances are.

Jerry


----------



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I think alot of it has to do with roadbed and how stable the track sits on it.


----------



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 08 May 2011 08:52 AM 
I think alot of it has to do with roadbed and how stable the track sits on it. 
I was at an open house a few weeks ago and there were little kids (visitors) walking all over including stepping on the ballast and tracks. No one was paying any attention to them and no one seemed to care. The owner told me he had to replace some track after it had been walked on.


----------



## Dreamtalker (Dec 27, 2007)

Sorry Greg, my intent to po people was the farthest thing from my mind! I was wanting to get two issue seperate opinions and varied ideas, sorry for the confusion. I just retired as a real train steam engineer and just wanted to get the best bang for my buck I aplogize to you and John. 

I just bought about two hundred and thirty feet of used LGB track that was barley used indoors with six switches at a bargin price from an estate sale, I hope to double that in the next month now that I know what kind of track I want. I just heard so many horror stories about track I figured this was a good site to get help. 

Been away from G scale since 1997 and alot of things have changed dramaticaly, and many local dealers no longer exist for me to ask these questions, Im not all that new to the hobby, just wanting to get caught up and I have always valued independent opinions. Marty you hit the nail right on the head when it comes to roadbed, I intend to use cement , as frost is not a problem. Ralph I thought about stainless, I guess Im hooked on old school with brass track, I recall back in the eighties running over a piece of LGB several times with a truck un-damaged. Thank you Ralph, Jerry, and John for your help and input that I greatly appreciate it. 

Big Train Show this month in Ontario CA, hope to get some good deals and learn more, sorry to hear about the Queen Mary Show that was my first. 
Thanks again and shiney rails ahead


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Terry, you will find that most members will read most of the forums. The beginner forum seems to get a lot of attention from the "helpful" people. 

Good news on your LGB purchase. If you decide to go rail clamps, you have to fiddle a bit to get the LGB joiners off, notice the "tab" underneath that sticks through the tie. 

Terry, are you going track power? If so, you might want to start off using either rail clamps or solder jumpers on the brass. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages, but I can tell you that the stock joiners are not the best solution. 

Might see you at the Ontario show... I'll be the tall guy with the mustache that the Aristo firing squad is taking aim at, ha ha. 

Greg


----------



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Terry,

One factor to consider is how the track will be joined. I have had good results with LGB joiners with LGB Conductive Paste but others use rail clamps on every joint (I mainly use clamps on turnouts). In fairness, none of my track is down in the dirt so I don't know how well that paste would have held up if it had been in the dirt, mud and water of an on-ground layout.

If you are going to be buying clamps that will add a lot to your total cost (I am not recommending anything here). Obviously longer track will mean fewer clamps to buy. If you elect to remove the LGB joiners, I usually do it by just drilling out the dimple on the bottom of the joiner where it was punched in to lock the joiner to the rail. With the dimple gone, the track will slide out of the joiner. I save the joiners as I usually end up needing them somewhere else. If you twist the joiners off it makes it a lot more difficult to reform those joiners for future use and more important you run the risk of damaging the last tie where it holds on to the rail. 

Regarding brass track I know LGB and Aristo are different (just drill and tap them and you will see what I mean - Aristo brass is a lot harder to drill and tap). I suspect USA track is different in that it is much more yellow in appearance than Aristo brass track (I would guess it is a softer brass but I have no idea if that is of any significance). I suspect Aristo brass track has some sort of coating that USA track may not have in that I have taken old Aristo brass track and (because it is readily removed from the ties) I have buffed it to a high gloss that looks (to me) like gold.

I have no experience with USA brass track in that I sold what little I had (that came with USA starter sets) because it was not of a curvature I needed plus its color was quite different from the other brass track I was using. This is not in any way negative about it - I just have no experience with using it - just as I have no experience with USA turnouts. I don't recall if USA track uses regular slip on joiners like LGB or screw type like Aristo. There are some benefits to either system. There are some minor variations in the profile of the various track that can cause some minor difficulties when joining them together.

If buying used track, look very carefully at the ends of the track - especially the top (where track cleaning may have ground it down) and the inside of the head of the rail on the outside of a curve (where wheel flanges rub on it - this can also affect the gauge of the track). If either has significant wear it can lead to derailments when joined with track without such wear as the wheel flanges will try to ride up and over any irregularities.

Jerry


----------



## Dreamtalker (Dec 27, 2007)

Thank you Greg, Im going solar on track power, I want to experiment with jumper wires, but maybe clamps will ensure conductive stability of the connection. Back in the eighties I used some stuff called Rail Zip that I would drip on the track joints every three months to protect the connection and then put a few drops on the pads of the track cleaner and run it after lightly misting the track with a garden hose and kept my LGB rails bright and the the rest would age with a dark patina. I understand later that the rail zip was automatic transmission fluid (detergent) but did a great job never lost track power! 

So far Jerry I got alot of 48" and 24" straights, more of the 48" keeping in mind less connections less problems..lol, if my luck holds out I intend to make the rest all 48". Without any investigation three months ago I purchased 12 pieces Aristo (usa) 5' sections brand new, and heard later problems with the tie tabs breaking, and also was told the USA & Aristo are made by the same Manufacture in China, they say they have more brass and less lead and the oposite for LGB. 

The track that I got Jerry is like brand new, but thanks for the heads up on the end wear, reminds me also why I used the rail zip because it also lubricated the inside rail and flanges on the consist. 

Greg are you Distb. or Dealer? I had dinner with Lewis Poke and his wife at the First Big Train Show at the Queen Mary that a friend of mind started (Brian)and as I understand sold the ights to Ontario C.C. How I miss those fun days of this hobby full of fond memories of many great freinds, and if the truth be known I sparked the Trolley explosion back then in the mid ninetys with my kitbashed Pacific Electric Red Car that took first place. I will look for you at the show. Thanks again Greg & Jerry. 
Shiney rails ahead


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, not a distributor or dealer, just a hobbyist. I'd have a hard time participating on the forums if I had vested interests, it would be a tough call with any post that involved a product I was associated with. 

Interesting idea about dripping some Rail Zip into the joiners... that's a new one. I heard rumors about Rail Zip = ATF. 

Cost always seems to be the determining factor of jumpers vs clamps. I run SS so soldering jumpers is really not practical. 

Yeah, I don't think the show has been the same since the QM... I miss it too... nicer weather there as opposed to Ontario. 

I gather you live in California? 

Regards, Greg


----------

