# Track & Loco pickup cleaning



## railcandy (Dec 19, 2010)

Okay, so what do all you experienced guys use as a solution to clean off brass track and the wheels & pickups on locomotives ??

'Im running analog - 10 amps X 3. Build up on locos is heavy.

I'm all ears at this end.

Perry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

On the track, depends on how oxidized it is... and is it dirty or oxidized? 

Cleaning gunk off, I use a car from BridgeMasters with a green scotchbrite. Goo removal a Swiffer - the wet pads... no kidding.

Oxidation needs a coarse scotchbrite, or even sandpaper on a sanding pole. 

Wheels, powered wheels, the Kadee wheel cleaner, on sliders or non-powered wheels, a Dremel tool with a small wire brush. 

You might want to check my page out: *http://www.elmassian.com...trong>*


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Similar approach using 'scotchbrite' but I use grey or purple (depending on what my local hardware has in stock). Its the equivalent of 000 and 00 steel wool, I found the green grade a bit lightweight for my circumstances. 

Same stuff for wheels, run the loco upside down with power applied. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I converted a drywall sander into a railcar by adding a pair of trucks and a "spine" to clean the track. This works extremely well except that you can't push it along spurs to "back out."

I use alcohol on Q-tips to clean the wheels. I invert the engines in a cradle and put 12 volts to them to spin the wheels against the Q-tips. I just rub the sliders if so equipped.

I have had plating flake on some wheels and in these instances, spin the wheels against some ~220 grit sand paper to remove the flaking and polish up the metal.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the green Scotchbright pad for engine wheels and track. I thought that the coarser pads, while they worked more quickly, left scratches in the rail top that I thought could lead to further accumulation of dirt.

Chuck


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## railcandy (Dec 19, 2010)

Thanks guys ! Greg Its mostly just dirty on the locos. My favorite ones are the dirtiest LOL. My most favorite was stalling on the track today, I put a brand new loco on the same track and no stalls. Visual exam showed lots of build up on the sliders & wheels. I do have access to a "Swiffer" and will also get some scotchbrite pads. 

I'll try to clean up the loco and start buffing the rails tomorrow. 

Thanks for all the knowledge; 
Perry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A trick: 

Once you clean the wheels, wipe down the rails with the swiffer on the pole. Great degreaser, and will actually clean the rails so well, it will attract dirt from the wheels! So clean the loco and run it around, and while it's running, do a few circuits of the track with the swiffer, you will be amazed at what it picks up. 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the rings from the LGB track cleaner engine to polish wheels on engines. I cut the rings into thirds and find them very useful for wheels and slider cleaning.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

That's a great idea, Dan--thanks. I will have to do that will the old rings. 

Keith


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## railcandy (Dec 19, 2010)

Thanks Greg and everyone, It Worked !

My favorite loco, The blue & grey D&H gp-38 was the one that was stalling. I cleaned the drive wheels & pickup sliders, Then cleaned the center loop of rail with the wet swiffer pads.

I ran the trains for a bit yesterday afternoon and the D&H gp-38 made it around the track 0kay. ( See Below Video )



Thanks again for all the great suggestions ;
Perry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Were you surprised at the black stuff that came up on the swiffer? 

If you do it during the day while trains are running, the wet rails will loosen junk on your wheels, and let it get back to the rails where the swiffer will get it... bottom line, cleaning wheels the easy way! 

Greg


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

Toddalin 
How about some pictures of your cleaning car? 
Thanks 
Mark


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By mgilger on 12 Jun 2012 09:05 PM 


Toddalin 
How about some pictures of your cleaning car? 
Thanks 
Mark 

No problem! 
A regular drywall sander was purchased and removed from the pole assembly. The rubber was peeled back at the ends and the two screws that secure the "screen-retainer bars" were removed and longer screws of similar thread were inserted in their places, after I ground the heads flat. Short pieces of round Plastruct slide/thread over these screws after the nuts are applied to secure the screen retainers. The Plastruct allows the weighted "screen head" to "float" over the rails. A couple pieces taken from tarpulan "snaps" go over the Plastruct and keep it centered. Another pair of nuts go over these "snaps" and hold the screen head from falling out when you lift the car.

The spine is a piece of "holey" steel that was ground to follow the curves of the screen head. Only one hole had to be slightly elongated to accomodate the spacing of the screws. A Kadee on one end attaches to the engine and the A/C coupler on the other end lets me pull a "scotchbrite" car to remove the residue, if so desired. I also put a small piece of styrofoam under the screen at one end. I think that this may improve the screen contact along the inner edge of the railhead where the flanges actually make contact, rather than just cleaning flat across the tops.


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