# A Railcar for the Culcreuch Fold Garden Railway



## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Last year I attended the opening of the Kapiti Model Engineers (West Coast, North Island, New Zealand) new clubrooms. On display was a 5"gauge model of an Irish Railcar which really appealed to me. A search on the internet and G Scale Mad enabled me to obtain photos and line drawings of the Clogher Valley Railcar #1.
























The 5" gauge model that caught my attention

I intended building one in 1:24 scale

The drawings were enlarged to 1:24 scale and a start made.










Here the cab back and side drawing is glued to 1mm thick brass sheet ready to be cut out











Here a start has been on the cutting out using a jewellers saw with 52tpi blade

































Not having access to a cad program, the drawing were prepared using MS Publisher











Part way through the soldering process













Soldering nearly completed and clean up started 





















The Railcar will be powered by a USA trains motor block.











The axle extensions will be removed and the wheels will be drilled and tapped for the crank pins as the railcar was rod drive from an internal combustion engine. The rods will be made from either brass or steel. haven't decided which yet.


The next part of the process will be the chassis and it's mounting on the motor block. Following that will be the cutting out and forming of the passenger compartment. More photos will follow if there is any interest


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I would love to see the whole thing being built..... great work


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice work indeed.


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## Rastun (Jan 4, 2008)

Very Nice. I've been working on one of those myself but life has gotten in the way for quite awhile. Mine looks like this right now.


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

You are well under way. 
Mine has stalled a bit at the moment as I have been involved with a Pipe Band Contest and have just about completed the financials for that, so will be able to progress further.
I will be in Ranchester, Wyoming,in July, following the Garden Railway Convention in Denver.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work, both of you! Keep it going. A very interesting rail bus.


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Having drawn up the sides and rear of the passenger section, this was attached to the 1mm brass sheet with spray adhesive and a start made on cutting out.










Two hours later the windows and door openings have been cut out ready for final filing









The cutting out was done with a fretsaw, (hand scroll saw) fitted with a 52tpi jewellers saw blade. As the throat of the fretsaw was only 250mm (10") I had to modify the frame by bending the end of the throat out about 75mm (3") to allow access to the rear windows. Funnily enough, the modification to the fretsaw has made it easier to use, so it will stay modified.


More later


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Another 3 hour session and the passenger compartment is taking shape










Passenger compartment and cab lined up for checking










Photos taken with wide angle lens, hence distortion


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Excellent sheet metal work and a very interesting model to build. Thanks for posting the construction photos. 
Joel


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

This is looking really nice! Watch for a cover story on a really nice Irish prototype layout in Garden Railways. The builder, Neil Ramsay, has made a couple of these railcars, too.


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Further progress has been made with the fitting of the entry doors to the passenger compartment along with strengthening angle at floor and roof positions. The 'tumblehome' on the lowersection of the sides has also been formed.











A start has been made on the bogie (truck) to go under the the passenger compartment












The drawing for the two bogie side glued to 1.6mm brass ready for cutting out.











The two bogie sideframes cut out ready to have the axle holes drilled. They were cut using a piercing saw with 52tpi blade. The axle boxes will be soldered in position once the bogie stretcher has been formed.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

That is becomming a very beautifull model! Looking forward to your progres!


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

The component parts for the bogie (truck) for the passenger compartment are completed ready for assembly











The assembled bogie fitted with Bachmann 25.4mm wheel sets










And in position under the passenger compartment.










The bolster has been machined and will be mounted to the passenger compartment floor. Yes, it does sit that far forward.


Ian


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

What craftsmanship!


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Hi

As I mentioned earlier, I had intended using a USA Trains motor block as a power unit. I am now thinking of making up my own unit. What have you used for your motor and gearbox?


Regards
Ian


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Posted By Rastun on 04/05/2009 11:30 PM
Very Nice. I've been working on one of those myself but life has gotten in the way for quite awhile. Mine looks like this right now. 











As mentioned earlier I had intended using a USA Trains motor block as my power unit. I am now thinking of making my own power unit. What motor and gearbox have you used?

Regards
Ian


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice, Ian. I just dropped in on the posts and have browsed through with great interest. Wonderful craftsmanship...


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## Rastun (Jan 4, 2008)

Ian, 

Here's a link to the page I made to chronical the progress on my http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/rastun/ACRC/railbus.html


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Work on the rail car progressed a little further today with the frames for the power unit cut from 1.5mm brass. One piece was marked out with centres for the axles and lay-shaft as well as the screw holes for the the frame spacers. The screw holes were drilled in the marked out piece and a second piece of brass was clamped in place and the 1.5mm screw holes transferred through. The second piece was then Tapped for 2mm screws and the two pieces fastened together. This allowed both to be cut out at the same time. Cutting was again done with a fret saw fitted with a 52tpi blade.










I will be using a HLW motor/gearbox which will drive one axle via Serv-O-Link Delrin sprockets and chain. Bachmann 25.4mm wheels will be used and will be modified to allow for the fitting of the connecting rods between the two sets of wheels. 












Frame spacers will be made from 6.4mm brass bar and attached with 2mm countersunk screws. Bushes will be fitted for the axles and lays-haft to run in. Electrical pick-up will be by LGB plungers bearing on the back of the wheels.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Great job. What are you using to solder. 

I'll have to look into getting the jeweler's saw you mention. Are your blades laser cut?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Jewelers saw 

The first time I used a jewelers saw I went through a dozen blades in about an hour, now I only change them when they get dull. 
The tempered blades are very fragile to sideways tweaking, the frame bends and the blade is mounted under tension, that will be something you'll have to experiment with to find a good tension. 
A pluck of a fingernail can tell you by sound. 
The saw only cuts on the downward stroke, if you hold the handle too tight you'll break a lot of blades. I use beeswax for a lube, it's sticky enough to stay in place. 
With practice the saw is very versatile and I sometimes use it instead of a file to get closer to the line. 
The shape is like a coping saw or a big C, they come in 2 styles, a 3" throat and a 6. I like the 6" as it allows wider stock. Hmmm seems like they now come in many more throat depths... 

To see one, from the catalog on top of the pile... www.alpha-supply.com I haven't ordered through these people, but have bought from them when the Gem show is in town. 
I usually order from Riogrande.com, but it helps to have their catalog. 

I'll be happy to answer any questions. 
Instead of confusing you with blade numbers and teeth, pick a blade that has more than one tooth for the metal's thickness, start with thicker blades until you get the hang of it. 
I swear some blades broke because I looked at them wrong! lol 

I've also used it for cutting stripwood at the bench. 

John


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

thanks; sorry for slight hijacking of thread; i've broken my share of blades and ended up rough cutting and then filing


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

When building your Power bogey don;t forget to allow for electrical insulation. I'd hate to see you build it all up and then not be able to run it as one side of the power bogey is not insulated from the other. Otherwise looking great! 

Chas


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Posted By SE18 on 06/02/2009 7:21 AM
Great job. What are you using to solder. 

I'll have to look into getting the jeweler's saw you mention. Are your blades laser cut?

Thank you for your comments.
I am using 60/40 resin core solder for tacking and 50/50 plumbers solder for the full joint. I am using phosphoric acid as a flux.

The blades for the jewellers saw are Eclipse brand made by Neill Tools in England


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Jewellers saw.





















The secrets to using a jewellers saw are:

Use a blade with enough teeth so that more than one tooth is in contact with the material being cut.
Lubricate the blade with beeswax or candle wax. I have a candle on the workbench all the time.
Slow steady strokes while holding the material firmly
Most important. Sit low at the workbench so that the forearm of the hand holding the saw is parallel to the floor. When using either of the above saws I sit on a small stool about 10" high. This suits my height in relation to the workbench surface
 So far I have only broken four blades in this project and each has been through carelessness while shifting the material being cut.

Cheers
Ian


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## peninsok (Feb 9, 2009)

Posted By wchasr on 06/02/2009 9:37 AM
When building your Power bogey don;t forget to allow for electrical insulation. I'd hate to see you build it all up and then not be able to run it as one side of the power bogey is not insulated from the other. Otherwise looking great! 

Chas

Thanks for your comments.

I will be using LGB sprung plunger pickups on the back of the wheel flange. The LGB plungers will be mounted in insulating sleeves so that they are not in contact with the frames.

Ian


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