# Older Bachmann 4-6-0 problems



## Bill in NH (Mar 22, 2010)

*I have two used older Bachmann 4-6-0 engines. They both seem to run ok, then one or the other will stop and cause the power supply breaker to trip. Sometimes fooling around with the drivers on each will allow them to run, other times after a long time with no power the will run again??? And this is on both engines. All drivers and rods are not binding but the drivers geared to the motor will not turn. I think that is correct. Any help? Are the newer Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0, 4-4-0s ect. much better engines? I know the cost a lot More. In the past I tried to get into live steam but I was out of my league so to speak. I sold off two of my steamers and "only" have my Aster Reno left. I have a Aristocraft 0-4-0 and a Bachmann 0-4-0T on the way ( I hope this Bachmann will not have any problems.) After sorting things out, I just might sell my Aster Reno to up grade to better motive power. Thanks for any help on my older 4-6-0s *

Bill in NH

Well in Fla. now. Our home in NH is under 2 feet of snow!


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## Bill in NH (Mar 22, 2010)

After reading a older forum post, I noticed that the Bachmann 4-6-0s have older and newer generations. Mine both have the plastic gears. I take the newer ones have metal gears. Is it worth the time to up grade my older 4-6-0s or just get new(er) ones? 
Thanks, Bill


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Please let us know what your power pack is as this could be the cause. 
The original Bachmann sets shipped with a small (approx.) 7va power pack and this is not enough power for most engines.


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## Bill in NH (Mar 22, 2010)

The standard power pack that comes with the set


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd go to the Bachman site and see if they still have some deals on the newer chassis for the loco. They will fit your older boiler just fine. I bought one here about a month ago and the price was right. Later RJD


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You stated the power pack that comes with the set, so I would go with a more robust supply first, the engines you listed could tax that supply if pulling 4 or more cars. 

You would need at least 2 amps or more, and if purchasing something new, go for 5 amps or more. This would prevent power issues in the future.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Dan. Your power supply is the problem. Many power supplies have a temperature controlled circuit breaker. When it gets hot from too much current it trips and opens the breaker. Upon cooling it makes contact and the engine will start. Get yourself a power supply with a minimum of 5 amp output, 10 would be better if you can afford it. 


Chuck


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## Bill in NH (Mar 22, 2010)

Well, Two things, 
First I lubed every thing, then sprayed the motor down inside with lots of electrical cleaner. Seems to work better now. 
Second, Could someone check out Ebay for me to see if there is a greater than 1 amp power supply listed, outside the 10 amp $250 pack?
Or if some forum member has one to sell.
Thanks for the replies. 
Bill


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

I have been using a couple of MRC 6200 "Transformers" for twenty years. Bought originally for about $70.00. I think they are 3 or 5 amp units, but have worked well for me. MRC also has a 10 amp unit which has been reported as very good. 

Barry


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Barry, I've got a 4-6-0 question. A friend's annie stopped running and smelled of smoke. I put it on rollers after cleaning the wheels. After a little wiggling, it started running, and ran for quite a while. Whenever it stopped, I'd wiggle the drivers and it would start again. 

So I clipped power leads to the pilot wheels and it ran. I clipped the power leads to the rear drivers and it ran. I clipped leads to the front drivers and nothing happened. Are the front drivers supposed to pick up power? 

It still runs, and I'm going to check the gauge of ALL the wheels, but I'm curious about which driver pick up power from the track?


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

Dick, 

The problem has been the phillips screws in the center of the wheels (under the plastic covers) are coming loose and need to be tightened. 

Pickup is via the four flanged drivers and the pilot truck.

Barry


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## Bill in NH (Mar 22, 2010)

Well, my 4-6-0 is back up to it's old tricks again. Was running fine when the lead truck derailed and it stopped. After resetting the lead truck, which I've done many times trying to level out my track, always running fine, this time the 4-6-0 is dead again. Nuts!! Back to the work bench, but I'm seaming to spend my time fixing this 4-6-0 than enjoying the railroad. I'm at the point of just placing it on the shelf for that rainy day. Maybe I'll give my other Bachmann 4-6-0 a try. It also had this problem. At least I got a couple of new 0-4-0s to enjoy. Thanks for the info on the power packs. 
Bill


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

I released a new pilot truck arm and flex frame a year or so ago. The arm is stainless steel and the pilot truck frame is two aluminum angles joined in the cent with a Lexan cross member. Both sides flex so the wheels can follow the track contours, uses no weights or springs and stays on the track./ Bachmann adopted the arm (in plastic) but not the flex feature on it's Gen six BH. These pilot trucks are available for $25.00 and come with a special arm and instructions. 

Barry 

623-936-6088 
[email protected]


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Barry's up grades are very good. I suggest that you get the new pilot trucks from him. Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Isn't there the situation where you can reverse the pilot, so now you have a short?


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

Yes, Greg. But I try to minimize the possibility, the lead wires are wire tied to the arm to cause resistance to the rotation in turning the truck around. Also have painted the trailing edge of the truck white, so when reversed it can be seen from the front of the loco (definitly not "fool" proof). 

The cutest fact is that if you are battery powered you can spin the truck in any direction, no penalty, no fault (no power). 

Probably a good case for a two or three amp fuse. 

Barry


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## Rocket_Scientist (Jan 25, 2012)

Just an FYI here, but I had the same problem last year with my 4-6-0 Annie.....run fine, then suddenly comes to a screeching halt. Wiggling the drivers and pilot truck would get it started again after the breaker reset on my power pack. Turns out the wires from the pilot truck feed up along the pivot shaft inside the spring and exit inside the frame through a washer with 2 notches cast into it. Those wires would chafe against the cutouts in that washer and eventually wear through after several years of service.

If you remove the gearbox cover, take a look at the wires that tap off the driver pick-ups and feed the pilot truck....if they look like they may have slightly melted, the wires most likely shorted out where they pass through that washer. I used a dremel tool to smooth the washer cutouts (they were rough to the touch) and replaced the wires with teflon wiring. Been running fine ever since.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Yea!!, it didnt take a rocket scientist to figure that one out......... 
Oh wait... Maybe it did. LOL I'm sorry. Had too. 

I see you only have one post so far. Welcome. 

The Roundhouse RnR


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## Rocket_Scientist (Jan 25, 2012)

Ok, i'll let that one slide (this time!), but since I DO actually work on spacecraft (for the past 20 years or so) that was the nickname my family gave me and it pretty much fits. My friend at work bought a slightly beat up annie last year from ebay and aside from some of the detailing damage. it was suffering the same run-ability problem. Found the same issue...replaced the standard wiring with spacecraft certified teflon wiring, smoothed out the washer, and fixed his power pick-up issue. 

Just been lurking for quite a while usually reading the sound system threads but not really interested in the newest (and stupidly expensive) DCC sound systems. I buy on a budget and run straight DC (my PRR Annie was MIB with a sierra sound system for $150 on ebay) so just keeping an eye out if someone is looking to get rid of a sierra system for steam. Still the best digital system ever produced for straight DC users IMO.....excellent sound and no magnets required for triggering sound effects. 

Recently purchased an HLW PRR 4-4-0 with a barely operational PH hobbies system so it'd be nice to find something for it. Not sure if i'll ever find a sierra system for my aristo 0-4-0 w/tender or my mint REA PRR rogers w/tender (whole engine painted in tucson red, not just the cab roof like the newest versions) but for someone with a family on a budget, it doesn't pay to put a $200 plus system in a loco that was bought for less than $100. Love the hobby but not thrilled with where it is going as far as affordability.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Barry, great idea on the white paint. I don't wonder that Bill's problem (the OP) could be a reversed pilot. 

Rocket: yes I am installing $200 sound systems... if you look around sometimes you can find a good used QSI for $100 which will also do bell and whistle with the reversing switch on your power pack (and for $45 you can control a lot more sounds on DC) 

Greg


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