# Small Drill Press.



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Any one got any leads on a small table top drill press? 

Not the kind you attach a dremel to. 

I am looking for something a little larger. 

Got any suggestions?

JJ


----------



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Micro Mark has one.


----------



## bvdrr (Jan 3, 2008)

How about Harbor Freight ??


----------



## John Corradini (Jan 2, 2008)

Try Micro-Mark. They have 2 small drill press


----------



## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Whats the max drill you want to use? Have a budget? I had a cheap one and eventually sprung for a used Cameron off Ebay. 

The Micromark version is pretty decent I know a couple people that have them and they are happy. 

http://www.micromark.com/microlux-benchtop-variable-speed-mini-hobby-drill-press,8283.html 

It has a J1 Taper shaft so you can upgrade to a nice chuck later on.


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By bvdrr on 09 Aug 2012 03:10 PM 
How about Harbor Freight ??









I have one. A real POS. If I hold the chuck with my fingers, it's enough to stall the motor, doesn't come down straight under load, etc.


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 09 Aug 2012 07:13 PM 
Posted By bvdrr on 09 Aug 2012 03:10 PM 
How about Harbor Freight ??









I have one. A real POS. If I hold the chuck with my fingers, it's enough to stall the motor, doesn't come down straight under load, etc. 



I have one also and it drills straight enough if I don't force it, but it does stall easily. Worse yet is that both of my dehumidifiers died and I didn't know it (they sound like they are running, and drain into a sump where I cannot see if they are actually removing moisture). I had been spraying the column of the drill press with oil periodically because it "felt" like it was rusting some. I never thought about the chuck rusting, but it is a lovely, uniform shade of brown now and "scratchy" when clamped down on a bit, and the column is rusted a little bit. 

I may go buy a better one and put this one by the curb with a "FREE" sign on it. (The previous "broken" drill press I put out dissappeared by the time I got back in the house and to a window to see if it was still there! Didn't see who took it!)


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd recommend going with something like *this* JJ. I have something similar - an Ohio Forge (now out of business) that I've had for 20 years and still use all the time. This one is made by Skil. Shoud have plenty of power for whatever you wish to do on a small drill press.










I also have one of the Micro-Mark jobs fitted with the x-y table. It's fine for small precision stuff like drilling holes for grabirons, but not for much else. Pretty gutless.


----------



## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Although they deal mostly in model boats, Model Expo has quite an assortment of small tools and stuff. Link: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/search.asp?SKW=cat1_rt 

Just a customer from time to time. Hope this helps.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

This one is made by Skil. Shoud have plenty of power for whatever you wish to do on a small drill press 
I recognise that - I got one from Home Depot for $99 when I had to drill holes for knobs in solid maple drawer fronts! 

As Dwight says, it works fine and I use it for serious drilling and mild 'turning' (e.g. filing down the stack top for my C-19.) 

But I also have the small Micromark 'Jewelers Drill Press' for the really small stuff, as it is easier to use. I bought the small one first, and I could probably live without it if I had lots of room for the big one.


----------



## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

John,
I purchased one at Lowe's for $99 and found it good only for big stuff and not for modeling in 1:20 and 7/8ths. I've even used it as a vertical lathe on soft brass with some success. But, I found it to be too big for most of my model work. So I purchased a small Proxxon drill press, which I use most of the time.
http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=20&idproduct=61

In addition, I found the same issue with my table saw and ended up buying a Proxxon for model work also. http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=196

I highly recommend both.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

JJ, what did you wind up buying? 

Greg


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't see it around here, but out in nowhere, Illinois, once or twice a year the "Tool Company" would come and set up at the local VFW for a few days. Got a pretty nice one for $50 new. Last I saw it, it was in William's garage.


----------



## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

The tool company is harbor freight.


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey JJ, 
If you haven't already bought something, my money's with Dwight's suggestion. I've had a Skil similar to the one he posted for about 20-25 years now and it's still pulling straight and true. 
Chris


----------



## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Chris.... Glad to hear from you...


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 05 Feb 2013 07:47 AM 
Hey Chris.... Glad to hear from you...








Thanks, Stan. I haven't been avoiding MLS, it's just been a grueling year with the move up to Portland and a rush film job. Just getting back to reality now and finally planning a real layout for the yard!
Chris


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris,

Great to see you here again.









Take care.


----------



## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

I recently purchased the larger Micromark one and have been pleasantly surprised by the quality. I checked the spindle and chuck runout and it was excellent. Plenty of power. Have drilled holes smaller than .020 with it. 

While I did mount a keyless Albrecht chuck that I had available (chuck cost more than the d.p. when new), the original keyed chuck was of excellent quality. I mounted that one on a 1/2" arbor I had and sold it right off at DH. 

When buying any machine tool, it pays to shop carefully and buy quality, even if it means spending more than originally planned. That way, you only buy it once. My larger d.p. that I bought used in 1958 is still performing perfectly. 

Larry


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Dear JJ,[/b] 

I'll bet you missed my question: (since 7 people posted after I asked the question to you) 

What drill press did you eventually buy? 

Greg


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By paintjockey on 04 Feb 2013 08:59 AM 


The tool company is harbor freight. 






Oh. Somehow didn't remember that. Was always a big event in McDonough County.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Greg and all, since we can no longer subscribe to a topic, I doubt that JJ remembers this one is his..... 

John


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I was hoping that JJ read the unread topics... oh well


----------



## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you guys ever see the "My Topics" link on the top left of the page? It takes you to all the threads you posted on. Works as good as subscription....


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I use "Active Topics" myself.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I read every post, so I read "unread". 

I've used active and my topics, but it seems the list is abbreviated, not the full list. 

(of course with over 10k posts, maybe I'm running into a limit of the forum software... I may get archived ha ha!) 

Greg


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Yes there are work Arounds.... Active 1st, then; Unread and then My topics.... 
It's been a while... didn't we get emails when the thread was active? 

Last off topic post from JJ was about watching more movies, so I'm thinking he has completely forgotten this thread as he takes a winter's break from trains and perhaps from MLS. 

John


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

dang single click dupe







why can't the software be set to single click... close the port after 1st click?


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Another option and it provides a lot more versatility… But there are some limiting factors herein.
I use my Sherline mills for drill presses on small stuff. Variable speed, precise depth control, table moves in two directions, various clamping proto-cols are available, a sensitive micro drill adapter is available, embossing riveting could be done and I use it for tapping too. There are likely many other viable procedures that could be affected with a Sherline Mill or similar.

Cost is a consideration, but if you can take advantage of the numerous additional benefits afforded; a mill it’s a reasonable approach IMO. And don’t let the diminutive size of this equipment fool you, I punch ½” holes all the time with mine, albeit I generally use an end mill verses a drill bit.

Used Sherline mills sale for $200.00 and up on eBay, a precision drill press costs more. An inexpensive import drill press can be had for under $100.00.

Michael


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have been following this thread some what......Mostly when I see it appear on the main forum page.....

I have not bought anything as yet.... The project has gone to the back burner.

I am back out side contemplating the layout. 

I got a call a few days back from a guy who does swimming pools. He offered me 30 .....Ten Ton truck loads of dirt......

My focus is back to the layout and car barns to store my carts in so I don't have to haul them in and out of the house. 

JJ


PS Nov and Dec are slow months.... Work is slow....Money becomes tight.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

He WALKS, he TALKS, he crawls on his belly like a reptile!









Welcome back JJ.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks JJ, was just wondering if you found a good, inexpensive solution. Let us know when you "switch burners" ;-) 

Greg


----------



## richardson121 (Sep 26, 2017)

Thank you so much, guys, I also finding the best drill press which is best for working thanks a lot for sharing with us this. Thnks a lot this post is helpful for everybody.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

JJ starts the thread and asks the question about a drill press August 2012

8 Months later he finally replies to us asking what he bought...

Then he mentions did not buy anything, and was "watching" the thread, all of us making fools of ourselves.

Finally the thread dies.

And then it is awakened with a thanks... 4 - 1/2 years later

So, Louis, what did you buy?

Greg -698



John J said:


> I have been following this thread some what......Mostly when I see it appear on the main forum page.....
> 
> I have not bought anything as yet.... The project has gone to the back burner.
> 
> ...


----------



## richardson121 (Sep 26, 2017)

I really love this drill. The top part swivels no matter how tight I make it. I'm guessing it because the parts came pre-greased/oiled. I didn't want to wipe the lubricant off and risk it rusting so I left it on. But I am still able to drill my seashells into it.
The bottom piece that slides into the metal cylinder is supposed to have a nut and bolt to secure it together but it was missing that piece, I think. The directions did not mention using a nut and bolt to secure the two pieces together but I only guessed that it was missing a piece because of there's an actual hole to place the screw or nut and bolt. If I lived the drill press up the bottom metal plate will fall off onto my feet. So I leave it in one place for now.


----------



## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For small work I use the dremel drill press. For large work I have one I got from Home Depot missing accessories for $50. It is about 3 foot tall and has an adjustable table and Manually adjustable belt for different speeds most likelt made off shore!!


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've got both like Dan, my big one is a Ryobi, and has about 15 speeds or more.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Drool  if i had a bunch of money to throw away....








https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/24350.php


----------



## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

2 cents. Long ago Dwight was right, the hobby drill presses by Proxxon or MM, HF, etc. are ok but more power in a Bench Top Drill Press is much better and more flexible and they're about the same price. I'll add I think a variable speed model is desirable with our kind of projects and a variety of materials. 

I've had a Delta P350 for a long time, great drill press. but appears Delta may not make it any longer. I think I paid around $110-$125. Have to say the dial speed thing is a bit of a PITA.









Number of VS bench top models avail. Lowes: PORTER-CABLE 3.2-Amp 5-Speed Bench Drill Press. $119.00. You can get mini-micro drill chucks for really small stuff. A MM mini drill press is $250-$350. Plus accessories. A must whether benchtop or mini DP, MM or Proxxon, an good XY table (or similar) is required IMHO. If you're never going to do anything other than really small stuff, buy the MM, etc., or cheap version at HF. Or money no object, buy one of each. Free Advice, and I have no problem spending anyone else's money.    I have both, just in case, handy to have around.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I also bought one of the MicroMark variable speed drill presses with X-Y table long ago. Useful for very small precision drilling in soft material, but if you try doing anything even mild duty, the chuck slips at the taper. So it's a specialty tool for specialty drilling, but far from a general purpose bench top drill press.


----------



## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight;
Epoxy would probably work on that chuck but try a mini-micro chuck first. That's limited by the drill size. 
Can't you mill or file a flat spot on drill bit so it can't rotate


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

It isn't the drill bit spinning in the chuck. It's the chuck itself spinning in the taper mount... i.e. the chuck mounts to the spindle via friction with a Morse taper. Perhaps the taper in the chuck or in the spindle are improperly machined. Not really worth trying to correct as the drill press suffices for what I use it for, and I don't use it very often. I'm just warning people that, if my experience with the MM drill press is the norm, it won't function for heavier drilling.


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight: Check this site:

http://www.woodcentral.com/woodwork...id/104727/sbj/help-with-morse-taper-slipping/

It has several suggestions to fix a slipping Morse taper.


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh, and I see it suggests sanding the taper and says it might also be some imperfections inside the headstock... DO NOT stick sand paper up inside the headstock with your finger and turn it on! It'll rip your finger off!


----------



## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Dwight, it is uncommon for the chuck to spin on the arbor if installed correctly. Typically, the drill spins in the chuck jaws if overloaded or it grabs. Once spun, there may be scoring, however slight, that prevents a proper bond. There are reamers for just these situations. The proper way to set a chuck on it's arbor is to first clean all mating surfaces; then withdraw the jaws to a bit under flush with the face of the chuck body and place it facedown on a solid flat surface. Insert arbor and give it a mild blow on the tang/back end. That should mate them indefinitely.

That said, all kinds of quirky things can and do happen.

I also have the MM drillpress (the "better" one) and have had no issues with it. If the machine is overloaded, the drive belt should slip. If in a modeller's workshop there is a milling machine, it's the best drillpress you can have. My 5500 bench mill from The Little Machine Shop spends half it's time drilling holes.

Larry


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the advice gents. However, as I said, "Not really worth trying to correct as the drill press suffices for what I use it for, and I don't use it very often." I have an Ohio Forge bench top drill press which sees the most use, and I also have a Porter Cable floor standing drill press if I need the additional length, so the MM only gets used for the tiniest stuff on the rarest of occasions, where slippage doesn't occur.



Larry Green said:


> If in a modeller's workshop there is a milling machine, it's the best drillpress you can have. My 5500 bench mill from The Little Machine Shop spends half it's time drilling holes.
> 
> Larry


I do have a milling machine... two of them actually. A CNC bench top German-made Wabeco, and a small CNC American-made Sherline 2000 with the drilling attachment. So I have plenty of alternatives to the MM.  For small precision stuff, the MM and X-Y table is often simply easier to drag out than the other machines, and its chuck natively accepts the smallest of drill bits..


----------

