# SL3 mamod



## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I just received a 3-wick meths burner from Dream Steam, but it seems that the design is unfit for the train. In the instruction sheet they told users to remove and replace the old chassis spacer with a new one. The problem is when I contacted them to buy the burner, nobody told me that I need to buy a new chassis spacer, and I have no idea what the chassis spacer is. I wonder if someone has a sketch of movie for this installation.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By mymodeltrain on 10 Feb 2014 06:47 PM 
I just received a 3-wick meths burner from Dream Steam, but it seems that the design is unfit for the train. In the instruction sheet they told users to remove and replace the old chassis spacer with a new one. The problem is when I contacted them to buy the burner, nobody told me that I need to buy a new chassis spacer, and I have no idea what the chassis spacer is. I wonder if someone has a sketch of movie for this installation. 

In this situation, Google is your friend. (It's long time since I had a Mamod in operation, so I had to look it all up. . .) 
First - the chassis spacer is exactly what is sounds like. It spaces the two chassis plates to the correct distance apart. There are usually at least two between the chassis sides - one near the front and one near the back. 









On this photo, from Marc's review of the loco ( http://www.sidestreetbannerworks.com/locos/loco36.html ) there is clearly a spacer in the center, between the two axles.

Your new instructions ( http://www.dreamsteam.co.uk/user/3_...ctions.pdf ) say that, 


*8. Fit the new chassis spacer* 

which I would think means they included a spacer with your burner. If you can't find something in the package that fits between the frames, I would call or email them. [Phoning the UK doesn't cost that much usually, but remember the time difference.]

Also read the Toy Steam Forum, including the thread about spirit burners ( http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/a...46041.html ). Maybe consider joining that forum and asking the guys what they did.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Pete, 

I checked the design of the burner and concluded that it is either poor design or it is not designed for the SL3 Mamod. First, the wick holders are too tall. Even without the wicks the holders touch the boiler. Basicly, there is no way to push of fit the burner in the slot. I just cut the wick holders to solve the height problems. Second, there is no way to push it in to fit the train since the design was terribly unfit. The whole thing is very messy now.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

either poor design or it is not designed for the SL3 Mamod 
Most manufacturers don't want dissatisfied customers. I would talk to the guys who made it. Take some photos and tell them the problems you are having. 

My recollection (using a Kingfisher (?) burner) is that the burner hangs beneath the boiler and pviots around the slot in the cab front. Something has to stop it flopping up and down - in my case it was a spring clamp at the back..Yours seems to have a screw?


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By mymodeltrain on 10 Feb 2014 08:09 PM 
Pete, 

I checked the design of the burner and concluded that it is either poor design or it is not designed for the SL3 Mamod. First, the wick holders are too tall. Even without the wicks the holders touch the boiler. Basicly, there is no way to push of fit the burner in the slot. I just cut the wick holders to solve the height problems. Second, there is no way to push it in to fit the train since the design was terribly unfit. The whole thing is very messy now. 

I think cutting down the wick holders was a big mistake. You might get alcohol overflowing now. This burner design has been around since the 1980s and so far it has worked pretty well. In fact, I got one from Mike Chaney, who was the first to manufacture such a burner. It looks as if you tried to squeeze it in above the axles, not below! I can post a picture of my installation if you want.

Regards


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"I can post a picture of my installation if you want" 
May you please do so. I just can't find any better way to insert the burner.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Later today or tomorrow.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"It looks as if you tried to squeeze it in above the axles, not below!" 

It is what I did; I tried to squeeze the burner in above the axles. I wish the manufacturer provides the instructions with some illustrations. Now, I understand why it just can't get into the narrow slot where it is designed for the solid burner. 
Probably, I will have to get another burner since you mentioned about fuel overflow due to short wick holders.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

How much did you cut off? If the tubes are still at the same height as the reservoir, you might get away with it. Here my ancient burner:




How it is installed:



As you can see, the middle frame stretcher is removed.

Here a view into the cab with the burner bolted down:



Hope this helps. If you are located in the SF Bay Area, we might be able to repair your burner.
Regards


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Thanks a million times. Just a photo like that saves me time and money. 
I tried to insert the burner from the top and thus I squeezed and twisted the burner, it is in very bad shape now. In addition, I cut 1/3 from the top of the wick holders. It took 3 weeks to order stuffs from UK.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Thank you all for your help. I could install the meths burner into the loco now. Although I cut the wick holders but they don't look very short. I will try to run the train this weekend.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

My opinion, some one spent a lot of time designing that burner and you have modified it. The height of the tubes and the tank have been designed to work together. To use it as it is now is a very bad idea. It is wrecked, buy another. 
Sorry. 
DougieL


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

Why not nest a piece of one size larger tubing over it and solder it to take it back to the original height?


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"My opinion, some one spent a lot of time designing that burner and you have modified it. The height of the tubes and the tank have been designed to work together. To use it as it is now is a very bad idea. It is wrecked, buy another". 

I totally agree. I will test to see if the train works since I bought it 2 months ago from Ebay I never have a chance to run it. Initially, I ordered a solid burner (it took a few weeks for delivery from UK) and it turns out the burner was so narrow, it can't hold much solid fuel. Basically, when the water starts to boil the fuel is gone. So, I decided to order this meths burner. So, I can't wait to test this week-end. Meanwhile, I am ordering a new one.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Basically, when the water starts to boil the fuel is gone 
You can remove the burner, add new tablets and relight it. 

I recall having to remove metal around/under the cab to get it to fit. 

I assume by now you got the idea that the burner tube are supposed t be at the height of the tank and to be level ?


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I wonder if there is any merchandise in the U.S. that sells the meths burners?


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By mymodeltrain on 12 Feb 2014 08:11 AM 
I wonder if there is any merchandise in the U.S. that sells the meths burners? 
First of all: The Mamod is the most expensive live steam loco in the world







. You start out with something cheap and then add gazillions of improvements until you have spent more money on the beast than you ever expected. If you want to replace the burner anyways, why not go for butane. It is safer in the long run (no spills) and the loco gets more powerful. There is a vendor in the US: http://www.ministeam.com/acatalog/Burners.html
Regards


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The Mamod is the most expensive live steam loco in the world . You start out with something cheap and then add gazillions of improvements until you have spent more money on the beast than you ever expected 
I'm afraid Henner is right. Most people spend a lot of money "fixing" the issues with their very inexpensive Mamod. 

For example, as soon as you get a decent burner you'll want to change the safety valve so it runs at a higher boiler pressure. Then you'll find the boiler is only soft soldered, so you might want a new one after you accidentally let it run dry with the butane burner lit.


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## boilingwater (Jan 27, 2010)

Pete, 

And don't forget the cylinders...and it goes on...I did all that years ago...got the mamod for a song and ended up with a opus mamodus....finally gave the engine to a friend in Michigan who did not have any....but Henner is 100% on... 

Sam


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

*If I'm not mistaken, the Brandbright, (IP?), Jane is an outgrowth of the Mamod. It came alcohol fired, and mine runs like a champ...*


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"It is safer in the long run (no spills) and the loco gets more powerful" 

Good idea, I thought about that in the beginning when I got the train. I am now leaning toward this option.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Biggest problem with the butane burner: It can get the boiler hot enough to disassemble itself, if it is left lit (and unattended) after the water boils dry. (Not mine, but seen it happen.) 

The "unattended" point is a whole new topic and thread that could be many pages long.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"Biggest problem with the butane burner: It can get the boiler hot enough to disassemble itself, if it is left lit (and unattended) after the water boils dry. (Not mine, but seen it happen.) " 
Thank you for letting me know, I never think about that. I never run a live steam trains before, for the electric model, I let the trains run for hours without worrying about that issue. Each model has its advantages and disadvantages.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

It is a good cardinal rule to *NEVER LET A LIVE STEAMER RUN OUT OF WATER!!!* When it comes to operating live steamers, they bear no resemblance, what so ever, to sparkies.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

let the trains run for hours without worrying 
That is not something you do with a live steamer. They require constant attention - just like the real thing.


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