# In-ko-pah RR -- Hotel Torgo



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I've made some more progress in designing the next building for the town of Dos Manos. It will be a three-story hotel in "Mission Revival" style architecture (arches, stucco and Spanish tile). This will be the largest building I've done so far, and I wanted to make sure I get it right. So to work out the design, I built a mockup out of foam core art board. This turned out to be kind of fun and a lot easier for me than trying to draw it (I work better in 3D than in 2D). Best of all, it gives me a way to see how it fits into the layout. Here are some shots of the mockup in place on the layout:





























The actual model will be made of pvc foam board. This is a material I've never used for modeling before, so I'm curious to see how it works out. I have some 3mm sheets ordered, which should arrive on Friday.

I'm still looking into my options for creating individual Spanish tiles in 1/24th scale.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow Ray, this will be a great addition to your layout. I will be watching closely as it progresses. Keep up the GREAT work. 

Chris


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

Looking good, the 3mm thickness may be a bit thin, I use mainly 5mm thick. But some extra bracing should help to stop it becoming wavy, being finished in 'Adobe' will also help - how are you going to do that? 

Interesting that both of us are making hotels at the same time, but very different buildings.


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Ray- I can't wait to see more. All of your buildings look amazing!! 


-Kevin.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Actually, after posting last night I took another look at what pvc board i ordered and it's 6mm, not 3. But there was no way to edit the original post.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

I see the buildings are getting bigger! 
Very curious how your experiences will be with the pvc foam board. And off course how this one will turn out eventually!!!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

GREAT looking town so far Ray!! I'm truly impressed!


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Looks great, Ray. That will make a nice, substantial, anchor building for Dos Manos - something to "put it on the map". 

3D vs. 2D - have you tried working in Google Sketchup to develop your ideas? I don't use it myself, as I have access to a professional 3D engineering modeling program, but a lot of people use it for woodworking design and other things. It's free, last I knew. 

Editing - does an "Edit" option not appear in the upper right corner of your original post, next to the Quote, Reply and Alert buttons?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By RimfireJim on 30 Nov 2011 03:12 PM 
Looks great, Ray. That will make a nice, substantial, anchor building for Dos Manos - something to "put it on the map".


Thanks! That's exactly what I'm shooting for.


"3D vs. 2D - have you tried working in Google Sketchup to develop your ideas? I don't use it myself, as I have access to a professional 3D engineering modeling program, but a lot of people use it for woodworking design and other things. It's free, last I knew."


Yeah, I have Sketchup and have started learning to use it, but it's pretty tedious. I use to do a lot of stuff with an ancient 3D modeling/rendering program called StudioPro, but besides being old, it was geared more towards animation and not CAD. This CAD stuff works very differently.



"Editing - does an "Edit" option not appear in the upper right corner of your original post, next to the Quote, Reply and Alert buttons?"


Nope. I think you lose the editing option after someone posts a reply.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, looks terrific! UR the man! BTW, I enjoyed seeing your pike--or was it a perch or a bass -- in GR. Very nice. You are way more ambitious than I am, hauling all that rock (or anything else) into your yard. On a personal note, how is Cris?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks Joe! Cris is ok for now. We saw the surgeon yesterday, who removed the last drain from Cris' side. Then she had to get a "MUGA" scan to see if her heart can handle the chemo. Then we'll be seeing the oncologist again on the 9th, and discuss our concerns. Then she's scheduled to get the "port" installed on the 12th. 

As if all this wasn't enough, my car decided it needed some expensive repairs this week.  

On the brighter side of things, we'll be celebrating our 28th anniversary this Saturday!


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Hope all goes well with Cris, as I'm sure it will. As for cars, don't get me started! Most importantly, though, happy anniversary. Will there be cake?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks! No cake, but we're hoping to have some key lime pie!


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

I sure like your prototyping technique. I had been thinking of using cardboard...bot that foam artists board looks a lot easier.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep, foam core board and hot glue are great for mockups, really goes together fast. Only minor downside is that the foam core dulls an X-acto blade surprisingly quickly. I've learned how to sharpen them to get more life out of the blades.


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## sandbarn (Feb 13, 2010)

Ray,
I thought about this for some time before commenting about your hotel. I’ve watched your progress building your cake shop and the drug store and have been amazed at your creative talent.
I was wondering if, being the anchor of Dos Manos, the first floor of the hotel shouldn’t have a taller ceiling (and resulting porch) than the adjoining buildings. I was thinking that might add some visual interest if the second floor windows were slightly higher than the drug store and cake shop. A similar effect could be achieved by making the foundation slightly higher and adding a step or two up to the porch.
These are the observations of an absolute novice; I’ve never built anything that looks as good as your outhouse. 
Whatever you do, please continue posting your progress and pictures. I love to watch a true craftsman at work.


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Ray 
You do the neatest stuff. Have always enjoyed you reports on the various buildings you built. 

Question: where are you getting the pvc foam board? Keep us posted on how you like it for a building material. 

Dale


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

The pvc foam board I just got came from this online dealer: 

http://www.foamboardsource.com/sintra-pvc-foam--sintra-pvc-board.html 

Their site is geared towards individuals purchasing relatively small quantities, and not just businesses looking for bulk supplies. So it's pretty easy to get just enough for a single project, if that's all you want. Of course, if you have the room and the tools to cut up sheets of 4'x8' or whatever, you could go that route. 

I also have a couple pieces of 1/2" thick pvc that I found in the cutoff bin at the local plastics dealer.


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## K&NWLR (Dec 9, 2011)

Ray, thanks for checking out the Kent & North Wales Light Railway on Youtube. The hotel is looking really impressive and will make a great addition to an already spectacular layout! Andrew


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I've made a little progress on the actual construction...

The main structural components (walls, etc.) were cut from white 6mm PVC foam board. A few parts were made from a piece of black, 1/2" thick PVC board that I picked up a while back from the local plastics dealer.

I printed out drawings of the windows onto cardstock, and cut them out to use as templates for laying out the window openings on the walls:










Here's a shot of the front and side wall pieces:











I had to cut a separate piece to go behind the middle section of the front wall, where it extends above the rest of the wall:










The corners and the window openings were rounded off by sanding:










Here's the front wall put together. There is a half-inch gap in the middle section, just above the doorway arch. This is where the balcony will be attached:










Here are some of the parts for the sidewalk and arches:










The window frames are made from strip styrene and are built up in two layers. They are designed to be inserted into the window openings from behind:




















That's all for now. Enjoy!


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Great looking windows, Ray. Lots of work too, given the arched tops. I dunno, everytime I start a new project I think about using stock windows, but in the end I think scratchbuilt look best. 

Don't get me started on chimneys, though. I am building twins--for my hotel--and laying on that Precision Plastic brick is a huge pain. The corners never come out right. The bricks that go around the corner of the base material, break, leaving gaps that ya gotta fill with something like Bondo. And that means sanding, etc. 

I am once again thinking of Precision Board, which can be machined, cut, sanded, etc. Maybe with a router or something, you could carve some neat chimneys and cut in those bricks properly--like the Pipers at Rainbow Ridge do. 

But I digress. This was about your hotel, which looks great!


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Very nice progress!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I've made some more progress...

First off, I made the sidewalk out of black, 1/2" thick PVC foam board. I sanded it and scribed joints and cracks into it. Then I sprayed it with a light coat of white primer. The color coats were done with Apple Barrel paints, starting with a mixture of "Sandstone" and "Granite Gray". This was topped with various other colors -- some were applied by flicking them off of an old toothbrush, to give it a speckled look. Others were applied as very thin washes. I also did a "pin wash", which is using a very fine paint brush to apply a thin, black wash into the lines and cracks. Last of all was a bit of Krylon UV matte. Here's some shots of the finished sidewalk:






































Next, I added decorative trim to the top of the front walls. This was made from .080" square styrene rod, which was bent to shape and glued in place with Weld-On 16:











Then I attached the side walls:











I also sanded and assembled the arch pieces. Bondo was used to fill the joints and to create a bevel on the top of the arch to match the slope of the roof:











And here's how it all looks so far. The sidewalk and arches are only temporarily in place and have not yet been permanently attached:











That's it for now!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow. Very ornate! 

You could curve your .080" styrene square that tight!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 08 Jan 2012 05:16 PM 
Wow. Very ornate! 

You could curve your .080" styrene square that tight! 
It helps to heat it. As you're bending it around a dowel or tube of the correct shape, hold that section near (not in) a candle flame just long enough to soften it a bit. Just don't use any glue or other flammable stuff while the candle is lit!


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray,

Nice work - that is looking very good - congratulations! 


Don't forget the top caps on the ends










What do you think of Sintra board?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks. I really like the Sintra/PVC board! Very easy to work with. So far the only downside is that the glue used for attaching styrene parts is a bit messy and harder to control than the MEK that I normally use with styrene.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's my latest progress report...

First, I applied a thin coat of Bondo to the surface and roughed it up a little:











Later I sanded it down, leaving just a bit of uneven texture on the surface. Next, I built ledges to go under the two large windows in the middle of the front wall. These were built up from various strips of rectangular styrene and styrene quarter-rounds:























I attached the sidewalk to the building. Then I decided that it would be best to paint the lower half of the front wall before adding the arches over the sidewalk. First I gave it a coat of "concrete gray" color. I wanted to give this structure a a little Mexican flavor, so I painted a strip of blue along the bottom of the wall:











My first choice of color for the rest of the wall was a pale yellow, but that was much too bright. So I mixed in some terra cotta and came up with this sort of pinkish tan:












That color looked pretty good with the blue, but I felt it was still too bright, especially for such a large building. So I tried using some paint that I had mixed to match some of the rocks on the layout. Here's how that turned out:











I'm still not sure how I feel about these colors, but for now I'm pressing ahead. I painted the arches to match, and installed them on the building:





























I also added the rear wall to the building, and have started cutting out pieces for the roof.


That's it for now, more later!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's my latest progress report...

I built the removable roof for the hotel. I began by building a channel out of rectangular styrene strips and installed it on the inside of the front wall. This will be used to support the roof, and also to catch any rainwater that seeps in between the wall and the roof. A styrene "lip" on the underside of the roof will fit into this channel:











I drilled a hole through the side walls at each end of the channel, to allow the water to drain out:











I glued a short piece of styrene tube into each of the drainage holes. These will be painted to represent terra cotta pipes:











The roof is made from a sheet of PVC and slopes down toward the rear of the building. Short walls were added on each side, along with some brackets, to support the angled "false roof" above the sides of the hotel:




















I also built some small structures such as this, to detail the roof:











Here's how the roof turned out. I still have to add the Spanish tiles on the angled structures on each sides:











Here's the underside of the roof. You can see the styrene strips at the front and rear -- one fits into the channel on the front wall, the other fits over the top of the rear wall:











A closer view of the underside of the eaves on one side of the roof:












Here's a close up of the roof installed on the building. Under the eaves there is a trim board that fits over the top of the side wall:











I also built the doors for the main entrance. I started with two doors from Grandt Line. Since they were not intended for use as double doors, I had to remove the molded doorknob hardware by carving and sanding. I glued the two doors together and built up a new door frame around them, using various sizes of rectangular styrene strip. The arched window had to be cut from sheets of styrene:




















Here the doors are test fitted into the door opening. I still have to make custom door handles:











I made a louvered vent for this arch at the top of the hotel, using Evergreen styrene clapboard and styrene strips:











And here's how the whole thing looks so far:











That's all for now, more to come!


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray the way that you have managed to apply the Stucco, is just outstanding. Did you use a float of some sort in it's application? 

IMHO I think the colors are spot on.
Rod


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I just spread the Bondo out really thin, then dabbed it with a flat strip of wood to pull it up into peaks. After it hardened I sanded it down.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, the whole building is simply outstanding. And your techniques are very helpful and unique. Your attention to detail (the skylight, louvers in the arch, rain gutters, etc) marks you as a master modeler, of which there are few in large scale. Having been to mainland Mexico (not just Baja), I have seen color schemes exactly like the one you chose. Now for a Tecate sign or two and she's good to go. Ole!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I started work on the Spanish tile roofing...

I decided to make individual tiles by splitting 3/8" styrene tubing lengthwise. To do this, I first built a simple jig out of various sizes of styrene strip. It has a narrow slit across the top. When the tube is inserted, I can run the blade of a hobby knife through the slit to score the tube, then turn the tube over and score the other side:











I don't cut the tube all the way through, just most of the way. Then I slice the tube into 3/4" segments. Each segment is then split into two halves, each one representing a tile. I can get 36 tiles from a single 14" tube. Each tile is then sanded to reduce it to a shallower arc, and also to taper it slightly at one end. Here's one of the completed tiles, next to a penny for scale:











I started on the left side of the roof covering the sidewalk in front of the hotel. Originally I was not sanding the tiles down as much, and as I worked on this side of the roof I realized they needed to have a shallower profile. So the left side tiles look slightly different than the ones on the right side, but it's not really noticeable. Anyway, here's a photo of the right side, as I was gluing down the first layer of tiles:











I glued the tiles down with copious amounts of Liquid Nails, to simulate the mortar that was typically used to fill the gaps. Here's another shot of the right side roof, with most of the second layer of tiles added:











Here's a shot of the completed left side of the roof, which was made using mostly the earlier tiles that had a more semi-circular profile:











And here's how it all looks so far. I still have to add the last three rows of tiles to the right side, and then I can paint them:











That's all for now, more to come as time allows... Cris just started chemo yesterday.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Fabulous work and progress, Ray. 

Yes, as time allows.... Cris is the priority but the modeling can ease the stress. 

We'll keep you in prayer.


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Looks great Ray, but one question. Do the bottom tiles need to be cut into individual tiles or could they just be the full length. It would save work and it seems like when the top ones are on that you wouldn't be able to see the difference. I live in Michigan and I'm not all that familiar with tiled roofs, so if my question is dumb, please feel free to say so.
Bob


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By Bob in Kalamazoo on 26 Jan 2012 09:51 AM 
Looks great Ray, but one question. Do the bottom tiles need to be cut into individual tiles or could they just be the full length. It would save work and it seems like when the top ones are on that you wouldn't be able to see the difference.


Good question. Usually, but not always, the rows of tiles would be far enough apart that the bottom tiles (the troughs) are visible, and you'd see where the individual tiles overlap. My rows ended up pretty close together -- some of them so close that the bottoms of the troughs aren't very distinct. So maybe I could have used full length tiles for the troughs, and the lack of overlap would not have been noticeable. 

Of course you could use full length tiles for the troughs even if the rows were spaced out a little better, and probably still wouldn't be very noticeable. But I really wanted to do it as prototypically as possible.


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Thanks for the explaination Ray. Like I said, I'm not that familar with tile roofs so I don't know what it should look like. And I know you build things to a detail level that 95% of us can't even imagine. 
Bob


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## chaingun (Jan 4, 2008)

Seen a lot of this type of building being a "native" of Arizona and having lived in the Old Pueblo (Tucson, AZ) for many years. Also having been South of the border a few times. I can say - this is just out standing work Ray! 
Best, Ted


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Time for another update...

After I got all the styrene "Spanish tiles" glued to the arcade along the front of the hotel, I was ready to paint them. I masked off the rest of the structure so I could spray the tiles with light coat of white primer:











I painted the tiles using "Craft Smart" brand acrylic paints, which is the house brand at Michael's. They hold up well outdoors, and they have some colors that Apple Barrel doesn't. I brushed on two coats of "terra cotta", letting each coat dry thoroughly and making sure to get paint into all the little nooks and crannies. 

Then I used a mix of gray shades to paint any exposed "mortar". After this dried, I touched up the tiles with some more "terra cotta" color, then went over some of the tiles with a mix of terra cotta and "red brick" color. For even more subtle variation, I also mixed up a lighter, slightly yellower shade of terra cotta and applied it to a few tiles. Then I weathered them a little with a thin wash of dark brown. Here's how they turned out:











There is a sort of fake roof over the parapet on each side of the building. I added tiles to these. The tiles nearest the front of the building had to be shaped to fit against the upright part of the wall. I still need to add tiles across the ridge of each parapet:











I also painted the rest of the front wall, and both sides, and painted the trim in a contrasting color. There's still some touching up to do, and weathering, and I haven't painted the rear wall yet. But here's how it all looks so far:




















And here's a shot of the unfinished building temporarily in place on the layout:











Enjoy!


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray,

I'm really enjoying your build and taking many notes on your techniques. Your talents are way up there and I can only hope to match them. Thanks for the painting ideas.

Doc


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray i like the look of the road infront of your buildings. What and how did you do to get such a real look to the road. Thanks pete digiacomo nogrs


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Pete, the road has a base of reinforced concrete. As soon as I'd smoothed out the concrete, I topped it with a layer of high strength mortar tinted with "Charcoal" cement pigment. I spread that out, then wet it slightly and smoothed it out some more. When it started to cure but wasn't completely hard yet, I scratched some cracks and potholes into it.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

A little more progress...

I painted the main doors of the hotel using several thin layers of yellowish brown. I weathered it with a little gray wash near the bottom, and then a very thin black wash. The handles were painted a metallic brass color, with some greenish gray weathering. The frame was painted with the same "wine" red color that I used for the hotel's trim:











I still have to cut glass for the windows, but here's how it looks temporarily installed on the building:












I finished putting the styrene "Spanish tiles" on the parapet roof on each side of the building. I used spackle to represent the large areas of mortar under the ridge tiles. The tiles were then painted as described earlier:




















Then I finished the rest of the roof. I masked off the locations for the detail structures, then painted the top of the roof using concrete gray latex exterior paint. After brushing on the paint, I stippled it to eliminate the out of scale brush strokes and give the paint a little texture. I painted the underside of the eaves the same color as the walls. Next, I glued on the detail structures, and weathered the whole thing with thin washes of acrylics, and topped it off with a coat of Krylon UV matte clear:
























And here's the whole thing as it is, so far:












I still haven't painted the rear wall of the building. I'm trying to decide whether to add any detail to it, or just leave it blank. Most of the rear wall will be against a cliff, and the rest will only be visible from one angle, so it may not be worth the trouble. Other tasks awaiting completion are finishing and installing the window frames, adding signs and a few other exterior details, weathering the building, adding lighting, and some interior details.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Love your tiles.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

This is not a comment or criticism of the Spanish tiling on the hotel. It is just that at the end of January my wife and I were checking on my mother in Las Vegas and noticed a different form of this tiling. So I thought you might be interested in it as a variety.

It looks like the tiling was S shaped pieces that were laid similar to regular shingling. That is from side to side and the next layer overlapping. Here is a shot of the tiling.










Here is a closer shot of the tiles themselves.










I thought the ripple effect was interesting. Hope this helps somebody.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Rich, 

That is the modern cast equivalent of Ray's shingles. Those in your pictures come from a modern concrete casting type process. They add the lips to make the roof more leak proof. Ray's example is of the old clay casting variety. 

If you were to tyle your roof today, most likely it would be the tiles you have in your example.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I have that kind of tile on my house, and it's concrete too. 

Ray, as usual, a beautiful miniature representation of the real thing. 

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks darned good Ray!! Great work!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm loving your tecniques. Your hotel is similar in style to the now gone Alvarado hotel in Albuquerque NM. It was a huge facility, about a block long, but I hope to model just the center portion of it if I can get enough information to do it. Thanks very much for sharing, I'm looking forward to the finished product.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Well it's been a long time but I finally have some more progress to report...

In March I built the window frames out of styrene strips. They're a very simple design, intended to be inserted into the openings from the inside. I built them in two layers, beginning with the larger outer frame that acts as a sort of flange against the interior of the wall. I used strips of scrap styrene as a spacer to center the vertical muntin:










Then I added the horizontal muntins, aligning them by eye to the marks I made on the frame:











The second layer is the part of the frame that fits into the window opening. It was built separately, then was glued to the outer frame:



















The two larger window frames were built in the same manner:











The frames were then sprayed with white primer and painted a dark maroon color using Apple Barrel craft acrylics. To simulate a slightly worn and peeled look, I used a rough, old brush to lightly drybrush some grayish brown streaks. Then the frames were sprayed with Krylon UV clear matte finish.

I glazed the windows with real, 2mm thick glass. Due to the simple design of the frames I only had to cut the glass into rectangles of approximate size and shape. These were glued to the back of the frames using clear silicone. 




I only plan to detail the lobby and one or two rooms, so I needed curtains. I've tried various approaches to curtains, usually using lace. This time I tried cutting thin linen into strips, saturating it in acrylic matte medium, and then running it through a paper crimper. Getting it through the crimper was a little tricky, and of course very messy, but it did hold the shape pretty well. (Be sure to wash the crimper immediately!) 

I dried the crimped strips of linen on a sheet of wax paper sprayed with Pam. When dry, I ran them through the crimper one more time. The the strips were cut to fit the windows and glued to the rear of the glass using a paintable silicone sealant. The sealant was applied only at the edges so it would not be visible through the windows. Here are a couple shots of the finished windows:



















Some of the clear silicone was visible around the muntins, as you can see on the above photo. I later cut it off with a sharp hobby knife. 

Before installing the windows, I printed a decal for the sign above the entrance. After applying the decal I touched it up with paint to blend it into the surface and to make it look less like a decal. 

Next I weathered the building using thin washes of gray and brownish-black. Occasionally I mixed some of these colors into the base coat and used that for finer strokes. When the weathering was finished I coated the entire structure with Krylon UV matte. 

Finally, the windows were installed, using paintable silicone sealant to glue them in place and fill small gaps. Then I touched up the sealant with paint as needed.






















I got all this done just in time to put the hotel on the layout for the West Coast Regional Tour on July 7. However there are still a few things that need to be done, such as the interior, the lighting, and a few other small details.











































That's all for now. Enjoy!


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

The hotel is looking great Ray. 

You're looking pretty good your self standing there in front of the hotel. 

Is that your dad sitting in front of the store next door?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks. The seated figure is my brother. Eventually I want to get the whole family made.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Wow Ray!!!! 


That is unbelievable! the street level scene of you two in the forground and your brother in the back is perfect! The flaws in the paint and stucco really give the hotel the crowning of realistic detail.


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## brown#1 (Aug 4, 2012)

hey i'm new and just getting started this is really in inspiration for me and my dad (i'm 13) 

Robby


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray I wish I had your patience, looking just fantastic!


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