# Tool to remove Kadee trip pins?



## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey guys.


 


I was wondering what tool would be best to use to remove the metal Kadee trip pins, as I have no use for them and they don't look that good either.


 


No tool I have is sufficient so I was hoping someone has an answer.


 


Thanks!


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

If you remove it, the coupler  will come apart./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif Most people just cut it off right below the coupler..


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, that's what I meant. What do I use to cut the pin off right below the coupler. 

Sorry for the bad wording there.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt,


I would think a pair of side cutters would work. The kind you use for cutter wire.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

...or a cutoff disk in a dremel tool, if you want to be high tech about it.


Dawg


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## MikeK (Jan 3, 2008)

Matt-- 

What I do is use a nail set to ever so slightly tap the trip pin down a bit from the top of the coupler. Then I use a heavy duty wire cutter and cut the trip pin off from the bottom of the coupler and tap the trip pin from the bottom of the coupler back into its original position. In this way, the pin is reasonably flush with both the top and bottom of the coupler, with no cut stub showing at all.


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## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt: 

I can't imagine cutting the pins off, notwithstanding that some LS users do that. You permanently destroy one of the biggest advantages of the Kadee couplers: The ability to automatically uncouple in remote locations. If you absolutely don't plan to use that feature, why not just go to the Accucraft couplers? They have a slightly better appearance, work well and don't need modification. 

However, IMHO the simplest way to remove the curved portion of the pin is to use a Dremel or similar cutoff tool. The pin material is pretty hard on pliers and plier type cutters leave a pointed end that still needs to be filed flat, even if Mike's method of partially pushing the pin out is employed. The cutoff tool allows you to get right next to the bottom of the coupler and will leave a flat surface without taking a chance on damaging the coupler by driving on the pin. 

Happy RRing, 

Jerry


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, 

The whole reason I am cutting off the pins is because I don't plan to ever use the automatic uncoupling. I just don't see the use for it. The real reason I bought Kadee couplers was because 1) I hated the Bachmann couplers and how they kept uncoupling during operation and 2) for a better scale appearance. 

I could use the Accucraft couplers, but frankly I think they still look a little to big. Just my personal opinion. 

Thanks for all the tips guys. I will just use my Dremel tool, seems like the easiest way.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

*Matt, *

I just nip the bottom portion off with a pair of rail nippers I used previously to cut HO rail. 

*Jerry, *

The first cut is the hardest.







" align="absMiddle" border="0" src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/biggrin.gif" /> Tantamount to amputating the legs from an engineer figure to make him fit in the cab. hehe! 

I remove the pins for a number of reasons, all having to do with running out doors, First they have a tendency to catch on any debris that falls on the track and derailing the train. Second if there is any grade at all or a wind gust between where you uncouple over the magnet and where you drop the car they'll couple back together. Third I don't like the magnets between the rails. Fourth on my type of RR the engineer follows his train around and is always in close proximity to wherever a car is to be dropped and therefore remote uncoupling isn't needed. Last the Kadees are very easy to uncouple manually once you get the knack and are about the most reliable and robust couplers I've ever used in any scale. 

This isn't a criticism of your opinion but rather an explanation of why many of us commit the obvious blasphemy of mutilating our beautiful Kadees. I hope my crude practice doesn't offend your sensibilities. hehehe!







" align="absMiddle" border="0" src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wink.gif" />


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## MarkLewis (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmmmm..... no HTML code leaking in this one. Must be a cut-Kadee problem.


 


Mark


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## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard: 

I certainly didn't mean to sound critical of folks who don't use the Kadee magnetic uncoupling feature. It absolutely makes sense to cut the pins off the Kadees if one is certain they are not going to use them. 

I operate the same as you, with the train crew following the train which is usually within reach and I too use a hand uncoupling tool (piece of dowel with an aluminum 'blade' glued to the end), but I also use the magnetic delayed uncoupling feature where the track is too far from the edge of the layout to reach. 

I too believe the Kadees are the most robust and reliable coupler going, but was mostly trying to encourage trying the delayed feature before cutting the pins off. 

Happy RRing, 

Jerry


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

I understand were you are coming from Jerry. 

I took the Dremel to those pins tonight, smoothed the stub a little bit and let me tell you I am SO much happier with the appearance of the couplers.


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## bobgrosh (Jan 2, 2008)

I have to agree with Jerry on this.
Posted By traindude109 on 01/04/2008 4:44 PM


 ...


... as I have no use for them ...


...



If you have no use for steam hoses, then why do you need to get some off the Kadee's?


And, If you did have a use for them, then call Kadee and order some, don't ruin a perfectly good Kadee by cutting off the brake hoses.
Posted By traindude109 on 01/04/2008 4:44 PM


The whole reason I am cutting off the pins is because I don't plan to ever use the automatic uncoupling.


...!



OK, if you never plan to use automatic uncoupling then you should not have installed all those Kadee track sections with the big magnet between the rails. Those are what makes the Kadee's uncouple. Take them out and send them to me, I will replace them with special non-un-coupling track sections.
Posted By traindude109 on 01/04/2008 4:44 PM


...2) hated the Bachmann couplers and how they kept uncoupling during operation and 2) for a better scale appearance.
...


I can understand this, Bachmann couplers do not have a simulated brake hose and therefore appear stupid. Against the rules to run without the trains brake lines connected don't ya' know.
Posted By traindude109 on 01/04/2008 4:44 PM


...and they don't look that good either.,,



Maybe yours rusted, They come flat black to match the color of real brake hoses, Try painting them. You could also try attaching little glad hands on the ends of them, or paint the tips silver with a little rust.
Posted By traindude109 on 01/04/2008 4:44 PM


... I took the Dremel to those pins tonight, smoothed the stub a little bit and let me tell you I am SO much happier with the appearance of the couplers...



So, how do you uncouple the cars now? When you reach a finger between the cars and go to pull on the end of brake hose to open the knuckle, there is nothing there? Or, did you somehow attach a plastic non-magnetic hose to give you something to grab onto? Where did you find a replacement for the Kadee brake hose that works as well as the one provided by Kadee? Even if you don't use then track magnet, I don't see how you would uncouple the cars without derailing the cars or making a special tool. I hear some use a thin blade screwdriver but those make holes in my pockets. I can never find one when I need it.


Did you save the Kadee hoses? I'm not sure that gluing them back on will work when you get tired of people wearing paths along the RR because on manual uncoupling. How do you keep people from trampling all the flowers. If indoors, how do you keep people from reaching into the layout and breaking things? Do you keep spare working couplers on hand for when you visit other railroads that don't allow five fingered cranes?


 


*B/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gifB*


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## Skip (Jan 2, 2008)

/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gifIBTL...


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't understand how this thread got to where it is. I only asked a simple question on removing Kadee trip pins because I don't plan to use the delayed uncoupling. Yet, people insist on whining and argueing why I should keep the pins, yadda yadda yadda.


 


What is so hard to understand that I *do not* want the pins?


 


Bob,


1. I don't have a use for the pins because I am not using the delayed uncoupling feature for one, and I don't think they look anything like airhoses. I am not ruining a good Kadee, I am merely modifying it to my needs.


2. Where did you get this idea that I installed Kadee track magnets on my railroad? I never have.


3. Without brake lines connected yes, however this is why I am using the 1:20.3 cars with real air hoses incorporated into the model.


4. Considering my Kadee's were brand new out of the package, I doubt they had any rust on them...... How does a steel pin look anything like an airhose?


5. I uncouple the cars with a flat screwdriver, very simple, magnets *are not the only way* to uncouple Kadee's. I don't need to replace them, I do not want to use delayed uncoupling. And a screwdriver is not a special tool that has to be made, I have one on my workbench right now. I don't plan to save the airhoses, why would I if I never need to use them? My railroad is not that large, and is really meant for countinuous running except for my yard which is only used to store trains during runs. And my mainlie runs to the outside of my landscaping, so there would be no reason to "trample the flowers".  Many Kadee users in my area also cut the pins off, so I guess I should be alright there also.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

*Matt,* 

I've had great luck using popsickle sticks to uncouple the Kadees. I sand one end down into a blade shape, paint them a bright color so they're easy to find and hand them to anyone operating. Cheap and easy, I can make a couple dozen at a time in minutes and no big loss if someone walks off with it in their pocket. 

*and Bob,* 

Me thinkest thou art "baiting". [] The popsickle sticks won't poke a hole in your pocket BTW.


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## bobgrosh (Jan 2, 2008)

Baiting? Me, A good olé Southern boy? Learned to fish at age tree? Nope! Not me!


As Jerry pointed out; "I certainly didn't mean to sound critical of folks who don't use the Kadee magnetic uncoupling feature. It absolutely makes sense to cut the pins off the Kadees if one is certain they are not going to use them. "


Just remember, If you ask a question here, there will be lots of other folks reading the answers. Maybe they should think twice about cutting off the pins, It is not easy to undo. We may think we don't want them now. We may say we plan to never use the uncoupling feature and snip. A few years later, well. the switch yard got a little wider and less accessible. Plans can change.  Eyesight goes, hands shake, can't remember where I put the Popsicle stick, and I've painted everything orange cause I lose everything.


By the way, I used a good heavy duty pair of wire cutters.. Later I wished I hadn't. Now, on the rare occasion That I do need to remove one, (font pilot of some steamers,), I press it out using my  drill press and force a piece of brass rod in it's place. The brass won't rust.


For most people, they should think twice before removing an operation devices like the glad hands of the Kadees or the sliders on LGB or USAT, If you do, try to make it reversible. Keep the parts, someday you may wish you had. If  you just can't live with something that is a little out of scale, and can't figure a way to make it reversible, then go right ahead and snip, file or cut. It's your hobby and your trains.


I'm glad Matt has thought it through. He wants scale like good looking couplers. Kadee's are certainly reliable, I wonder why more people don't use Accucraft if the appearance is so important.


*B







B*


Oh! Am I the only one who paints the springs on my Kadees?


PS: Richard, About the baiting thing, did the way I signed the post give me away?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I also don't particularly like the look of the Kadee uncoupling pins and cut them off.  For me, the fastest and easiest answer is to nip them off with diagonal cutter pliers and then dress the rough stumps with a small file.  It's very quick and easy.


If I want to do any switching, I reach down between the cars with a long-bladed screw driver and pop the couplings open.  In truth, I do very little switching and I find this setup to work just fine for me.


Llyn


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By llynrice on 01/06/2008 1:18 PM


I also don't particularly like the look of the Kadee uncoupling pins and cut them off.  For me, the fastest and easiest answer is to nip them off with diagonal cutter pliers and then dress the rough stumps with a small file.  It's very quick and easy.


If I want to do any switching, I reach down between the cars with a long-bladed screw driver and pop the couplings open.  In truth, I do very little switching and I find this setup to work just fine for me.


Llyn



 


I could not have said it better myself. That is exactly how I feel.


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## traindude109 (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, I understand where you are coming from. Everyone has their own opinions and what they want to do with their trains. Some may object to the practice, but for some it is just to make things look better or whatever the reason. 

Anyway, I got all the help I need, the Dremel makes quick work and I am happy. I think we can let the topic rest now. Thanks guys for your help!


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## jasher817 (Jan 2, 2008)

I use to cut them off because they would catch on my 90 crossover (and be a big pain in the backside). But instead of cutting them off now I bend them up and now they prevent the up and down movement that allowed them to uncouple when I didn't want then to.


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## digger (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry, but can't let it die here...  With a relatively small layout and limited switching, I use the "popsicle stick" digital method of uncoupling, and add air hoses to the ends of all of my equipment for more realism.  I simply clamp the curved portion of the uncoupling pin in a vise, and cut it off flush to the bottom with a _jeweler's saw_.  Obviously, it's best to do this before mounting the couplers to the cars  I've done it with a Dremel on some occasions, but have managed to weld a couple of couplers shut with the heat generated by grinding.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Obviously, it's best to do this before mounting the couplers to the cars

Oh, the visual, especially with a 1:20 locomotive hanging off the end. 

Like Mike (page 1) I tap them down around 1/16" with a center punch, snip them off with diagonal cutters (lineman's wire cutters) and tap them back in place. I tried the Dremel trick, but like Ed, found too much heat made messes, and going slowly enough not to create heat took too long. 

The one advantage to cutting the pin off that always seems to be overlooked in these discussions is that you can finally have a realistic front pilot on your locos, not having to worry about where those stupid trip pins hit them. That--to me--outweighs any advantage that could be gained through automatic uncoupling. I'd much rather have a clean-looking front end to a locomotive, as that's the most prominent point on any train. If the nose is broken, the face just looks funny. 

Later, 

K


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

I had a problem with some kadee uncoupler pins catching on switch frogs, sound magnets, or fallen tree debris,  with disastrous results.   Accordingly, I usually cut the pin off one of the two kadees on a car.  As long as I always put the clipped kadee end of the car forward, there is no problem.  The back kadee pin curves backward and won't catch on the magnets.  

Matt, I use a set of 9in. Craftsman side-cutters to shorten the pins.

JimC.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't know why you would not just buy the kadee tool to bend .  Lot easer.  Later RJD


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I used to use a pair of nippers. There was an article in GR magazine a while back by Kevin Strong on how to do this. Basically, if i remember, he tapped the pin down a bit, then cut with wire snips and then tapped it back up a bit. 

Oops, I see Kevin already posted his technique, never mind /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif

I use my dremel with a cuttoff wheel.


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