# Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher



## Cat22 (Oct 29, 2009)

*Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Hello all,
Yes, I am a newbie to live steam and am looking for advice. So let's get some background going. I'm 31 and have had G scale stuff for 22 years now. The short version: I wanted a train set since I was five and my Dad kept saying when we moved into a new, larger, house I could get one. Well after three years in a row of asking for it for Christmas and getting the same story, we moved and I forgot to ask. Well that Christmas morning I had a G scale train (LGB's first Mallet and a few cars) running around the house downstairs. I remember that morning because I was so excited I nearly threw up. I had only wanted an HO size train so this was a dream come true. So there is the short version.
I now live in a suburb of Phoenix (Chandler) Arizona. Now that I have a backyard I moved the train in. The wife was really happy about that but, she lost a bet so there ya have it. I've known about Live Steam in G scale sizes but had only seen them in "British Style" until about a year ago. That's when I saw an actual coal fired K-27 at a local train club. HOLY S**T that is positively AWESOME!! So I talked with the owner and found out about the live steam hobby and the history about what I have been missing (yeah, I only got high speed internet about a year ago too, so no, I hadn't seen any YouTube videos and such because I was still on 56k).
So here I am. After extensive looking, reading, pondering, and a little pleading with the wife, I have my sights set on live steam. Now I have read practically every post on this website and others, but liking this website the most, I will post the questions here. So, without further delay, here are the questions.
1: What locomotive to go for? Let me trim that down a little... 
A: Budget $1,000.00 
B: I like American style locomotives from about 1900 through the end of steam. But, it must have a Walschaerts valve gear outside those drive wheels, functional or not, doesn't matter, but I like to stare at those counter rotating rods for hours sometimes (koo...koo... I know). The only engine that I have found that meets all of these requirements without any modification is the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0. The S-12 is very similar with a functional Walschaerts valve gear but it's also beyond my budget.

2: Long term maintenance? I have spent many hours on YouTube videos and this and other sites about short-term maintenance such as how to oil, put a fire too, run, and cool down/clean up the locomotive, but haven't read much on long term care. What wears out eventually, even with proper maintenance (I would imagine things like journals and piston seals)? What does it usually cost (in general) to fix? How often (again in general, I know a lot of this will depend on running environment, proper oiling, etc...)? Will I need a local Machine shop for these repairs or can I do them with basic hand tools? In your experiences are the parts easy to get or...(insert horror story here)?

3: General running question: Johnson bar. I haven't seen any videos using the johnson bar (reversing lever) while running. For example, if staring from a stop, bar full forward to start but as speed increases, move bar rearward to reduce valve opening time and thereby using the expansive properties of steam to maintain motive power. Is this something that is done? 

4: Continuous running question: I like to run my passenger consist for about 25 minute intervals for around two to three hours at a time. I would therefore be doing the same with the steam loco. I want to get the optional hand pump to put water in the boiler under pressure. However, as I understand it, you can refill the butane while "hot and under pressure", water as well but what about steam oil? It would appear that you must first blow down all the water that accumulates in the steam oil reservoir in order to refill it. Then to refill it you need to take the cap off. This process will therefore require all of the pressure to be relieved from the boiler. Am I right? Or, can you close the throttle after blowing down thereby cutting off the steam pressure to the reservoir and being able to remove the cap to refill it while there is still pressure in the boiler? How long until your back up and running again if you must relieve all the pressure? How long does the steam oil last; do you have to refill every time you refill water and butane or will it last through one, two, three, refills of water and fuel? 

5: Another continuous running question: With the above time intervals listed what about oiling the entire locomotive? If it's hot and under pressure, picking it up and turning it over to oil the parts underneath is out. Will the first application of oil last for a few hours or is it advisable to oil at every refill?

6: Shutting down: There appears to be some controversy as to where to leave the throttle so that you don't get it "locked" in place but not open enough to draw steam oil into the boiler when cooling down. I intend to install a whistle so this might work to cover both problems but before it's made/installed couldn't you just leave the steam oil blow down open, with the throttle partly open, thereby relieving steam pressure and not sticking the throttle during cool down or drawing steam oil into the boiler?

7: Anyone know of a good place to experience live steam in the good state of Arizona in the USA. I am a member of the Maricopa Live Steamers club but it is for 7 1/2 " gauge 1 1/2" scale trains. Just thought someone may know. I have done a decent amount of looking but all I can find is ABTO (Arizona Big Train Operators) club and none of them operate live steam locomotives.

The next set of questions are more specific to owner/operators of the AML 0-6-0.
8: Turning radius? I have read Kondre's posts with much enthusiasm and noticed that he said it will go around 5' diameter curves but I imagine this will slow the locomotive down. Also, he mentioned that he thinks it will go through his switches (points - for you English) which are 4' diameter. I have the same problem. Almost all my curves are LGB R1 which are basically 4' diameter. Same with my switches. I am upgrading now to LGB R3 (8' diameter) and R5 (16' diameter) curves and switches but this will take some time. It also really reduces my budget for the locomotive. It's going to cost me just shy of $2,000.00 to replace everything. The reason I'm doing this; If I like live steaming (and I'm pretty sure of this) my dream engine is the new K-36 that Accucraft is making which will require 8' diameter as a minimum.

9: Remote control installation. TY's posts (at the end) indicate that he R/C'd his loco. Any pictures or advice TY? Same for Kondre...have you done this yet? I have a few mild grades with all ground level track and want to R/C it. Any suggestions? I have tons of R/C equipment lying around so this should be very cost effective.

10: Bark box and whistle installation. Brakeman123 installed a Mogul bark box and said that it fit pretty well. I intend to go to Trainsales.com and discuss it with them, but any advice would be helpful. As for a whistle; It appears that in Kondre's picture posts that there is an added steam line that could be used for heating the water in the tender to stabilize the butane on cold days. As I live in Phoenix , I don't think I will need to use that line for that purpose.







So, could it be used for a whistle installation? Is this boiler large enough to supply adequate steam pressure for a whistle? I know of "Bangham Whistles" and WELTYK'S WHISTLES. Any other manufactures I should talk too?

11: Anyone done a headlight installation in either this or other locomotives? Ideas on parts, equipment, and where to get them would be helpful.

I want to say thank you to all the future posters with responses to my questions. I really do appreciate any advice that I can receive from the people here.
Thanks again,
Brian Thomson


----------



## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Buy one while you can - you will NOT be sorry. They are very great runners and look great. Apperas that you could easily make a 2-6-2 from one rather easily too.


----------



## turbohvn (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Brian, 

I have sold about two dozen of these 0-6-0s and have heard nothing but praise back from the customers. This is one of the best bargins in Accucraft's stable. Right now there is a sale on as well so they are an even better bargin. All versions are available with the exception of the Canadian National. 

Call me any evening after 7PM ESt to discuss. I can also put you in contact with customers in your area to help you with your transition to live steam. 

Royce Brademan 
Quisenberry Station - Live Steam Models 
202-422-2892


----------



## Chrisp (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

I'll answer q.11, probably the least important when it comes to going into live steam (which I recommend heartily). I added lighting to my Accucraft Shay using a mini Maglite bulb and and high temp teflon-jacketed wire running to a battery and SPDT switch in the rear fuel bunker.

OK, and on the Johnson bar question, at least for the Shay you can use it for directional and speed control (some people set it up this way using a single R/C servo), though mine is manual, so I use it only for direciton.


----------



## Anthony Duarte (Dec 27, 2007)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

I just saw an AML 0-6-0 run over the weekend, and it ran for over a half hour without any problems. I would also certainly recommend buying one while you can!

I just posted a video on youtube that includes some footage of the 0-6-0. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKraAowtBlM 

- Anthony


----------



## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Another Arizonan! Welcome! I've got not much to add when it comes to places to run, since I live on the edge of nowhere up here in Page, but glad to have another Arizonan live steamer. 
Oiler - you should be able to shut the throttle after blow down to prevent losing pressure from the boiler. It'll be hot to open, but other than that, I don't see any problems with it.


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

I think most of us tend to over-oil our running gear. That is not necessarily a bad thing, the oil tends to wash dirt and grit off and away from the moving part interfaces but we use an awful lot of oil and it covers everything on the track... if all you run is Live Steam that is not too bad, but track power operation can suffer for it. How often you might need to oil is for a large part dependent on how dirty your track is; how much airborne dust there is. Over oiling is preferable to letting some journal run dry and get a scar... damage can be either very gradual or sudden and catastrophic... these things are expensive, so you don't want something to wear out more quickly than it might have if you did the traditional "oiling around" religiously. I have several miles on my Aster Mikes (one a whole lot more than the other) and they are not showing any signs of wear (that I have noticed!).

Refilling the displacement cylinder-oiler depends on how fast it uses Steam Oil and that is quite variable from one machine to the next, even within the same brand and even within the same model. The way they are usually made, the pipes and orifices can vary in size such as to cause the oil usage to vary considerably. Variations in steam pressure and temperature, speed you run at and whether you can (and do) vary the cutoff on the engine also will change the rate of oil usage.

I also think that we could do with lots less steam oil usage than what the typical engine does. Some are now equipped with a variable valve for adjustment for oil usage and I think most engines today expect to run out of fuel before they run out of water and run out of water before they run out of oil. Of course, with an axle pump, tender hand pump or a Goodall valve (or similar) we can maintain water levels for as long as we want, so now it becomes an act of monitoring to see when it needs replenishment.
You will have to learn how your particular machine operates to know how often you will need to replenish the steam oil. Check often at first and remember how long it was before it ran out then you can ease up on checking so often.


Refueling gas does require that you shut off the fire while refueling... I suppose there may be some that say they refuel without doing so, but I think that is inviting disaster! The fuel tank must vent while fuel is going in and that means there is considerable fuel vapor around and it will ignite! (Just ask some gas operators that have been in the act of fueling their engine when an alcohol burner passes them on an adjacent track!) Same for refueling with alcohol. The problem with alcohol is that you must shut off the fuel flow and then wait for the residual fuel to be burnt off which can take a couple of minutes; whereas with gas, once you shut the fuel valve the flame extinguishes within seconds.

As for R/C control of the Reverser lever to "notch up" and save steam, this can be done IF the valve gear has a proper Expansion Link AND working Combination Levers. Many of the less expensive ones do not. The Reverser lever only exchanges the "steam in" and "exhaust out" of the steam chest to reverse the engine and does not affect the valve event timing. Some people have claimed that on their loco that has this type of reverser that if they pull the lever back from "full" forward or reverse that the engine runs better, but that is because their valve is miss-adjusted and when it is in full forward it is too far forward and is acting to throttle the flow of steam and thus moving it back opens the ports a bit and the engine runs better. This is not the same as notching up on the valve gear.

I don't know which of the less expensive engines today have true valve gear, I know the Ruby and its derivatives do not and I do not believe the 3-cylinder Shay does either. I wish you could quadruple your budget and get an Aster Mikado like I have, which does react properly to notching up. I do dearly enjoy watching the valve gear operate... mesmerizing!


----------



## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Good answers, Mr Vaporo - and I agree with them all, especially the point you make about shutting off the gas before refilling, or taking care not to be refuelling while an alcohol-burner is passing by. True, eyebrows grow back, but it's **** for a few weeks having to use stick-on models. AND you look stupid, too.

As for notching up, or down, most of the Aster models with real valve gear will do it, I'm told, and the latest biggie from AccuCraft to come over here, the CPR 'Royal Hudson' has a reducing notch on the Johnson bar to help out with steam, not that it's ever short of the stuff, y'unnerstan'.

The three-cylinder Shay, BTW, is nothing more than three of the larger Ruby cylinders lined up, and has only a steam switching valve. My three-cylinder Shay has the modified oiler made by David Bailey, with a fine adjuster valve to better regulate the flow - before that was fitted it was a real lube hog. He also provided a double-sized gas tank to enable me to run for around 48 minutes or so, and there is always a small residue of steam oil left even at the end of that extended run - as there should be. Oiling up all around the loco should not be a chore, as it enables you to check out the running gear that may be difficult to see right way up, especially with outside-framed locos. It's particularly important over here in UK where many of our little engines have gauge-changing axles whose wheels can work loose over time - like the AccuCraft Garratt, for instance. With a total of ten axles to work loose, you can bet that there is likely to be at least one that has gone its own way at some time. With fifty cars behind it and a full head of steam, running off at a switch is NOT the time to discover that one wheel-set is at 32mm gauge instead of 45. The plus is that you get to see all the steam pipes too, and ensure that all is connected up correctly.

I'm sure the others will come in on the other matters raised by the OP - right now I'm going to run a steamie. 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org

PS - a few years back, one of my sparkies, a USA Trains Geep, was unintentionally set running on our little track by a next door neighbour unfamiliar with what to them were upside-down wall-switches - they were looking in while we were over with our folks in Ontario. The train was still operating, covered with bird-poo and general grime, twenty-six days later, having run continuously, day and night, since it had been switched on. I was very glad that it had been well-lubed the day before we had left. t


----------



## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Posted By tacfoley on 10 Nov 2009 04:54 AM 
Snip...


PS - a few years back, one of my sparkies, a USA Trains Geep, was unintentionally set running on our little track by a next door neighbour unfamiliar with what to them were upside-down wall-switches - they were looking in while we were over with our folks in Ontario. The train was still operating, covered with bird-poo and general grime, twenty-six days later, having run continuously, day and night, since it had been switched on. I was very glad that it had been well-lubed the day before we had left. t






TWENTY SIX DAYS? That's awesome! (Made me laugh out loud!)


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Hi Brian,
A good lot of questions, and a sensible approach to joining the world of live steam.
Okay, SOME answers from my perspective.
1) What locomotive - budget 
Other than American locos, I don't know what specific interest that you might have. Although we all have to work within our budgets I would really give it a lot of thought as to what loco that you REALLY might desire, and see if there is a way to get it. Spending $1000 on a loco that really won't perhaps satisfy you in a years time may be false economy.
Give it some thought before you make a decision.
2) Long term maintenance
Live steam is very mechanical, and therefore things may wear out, but not that you will really notice. As long as there are bearing and bushings on all the moving parts, and they are lubricated and kept an eye on for things coming loose you will be fine for many years.
3) Johnson bar
On our size of loco, the use of notching up and down really does not have a great effect on saving steam. I think most people run their locos more or less in full gear, or perhaps just notched back the smallest piece. Too much and they normally don't run very smoothly.
4) Continuous running
I only run alcohol, so can't really comment on gas. It is NICE to have an axle pump so that the boiler can be filling at the same speed that you are using water. My Accucraft Royal Hudson will run for 1 hour and 12 minutes from initial lighting to running out of fuel. The tender will be refilled three times during that time as the axle pump keeps replenishing the boiler.
That loco does have an enormous fuel tank!
Locos with smaller fuel tanks will not run as long, but of course can be refilled. Alcohol can be refilled at any time with the burner still alight, gas cannot!
If there is no axle pump, then a tender pump can be used whenever you stop to refill the boiler.
If no tender pump, then you can probably fit a goodall or enots valve and use a pump bottle to add water to the boiler. 
5) Oiling
You shouldn't need to re oil during the day. Using a thicker oil will stay on all the moving parts with no problem. However, you WILL need to check the lubricator oil and empty out the water and refill with oil. This is the oil that keep the pistons and cylinders lubricated.
6) Shutting down
I always leave my blower (alcohol only) and throttle just loose as the loco cools down. One main reason is that if you have an axle pump and you don't, the vacuum caused by the cooling steam will suck all available water from the tender into the boiler and actually fill it right up, which while no big problem, makes the next steam up take longer because of too much water in the boiler.
7) Experience live steam
I would recommend finding somewhere to experience a wide variety of our scale of live steam to help you see what it is all about before you take the plunge. Take a holiday to the National Steamup in Sacramento, or Portland for the Staver events, or Cabin Fever, or Diamondhead, or just find a local group (which you are trying to find). By seeing what is out there, and to see people running them will really give you a better idea as to what you may really want and need.
8 - 11) AML 0-6-0
I am not familiar with these. I have seen a couple run locally and they run well. I may be incorrect, but I don't think that they have a working Johnson bar though. Do they someone?

Anyway Brian, wishing you good luck in enjoying live steam. It is just like the real thing!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Brian-

If you can find one of the AML 0-6-0's get it. you should be able to find them for under $1K, I paid less than that including shipping from canada.

I got the Canadian northern and it has a high bunk on the tender. This high bunker and the roof of the cab touch when it rolls through a 4' Dia turnout, thus preventing it from going through properly. if you get one of the other versions with the standard tender, you should have no problems. 5' Dia curves are no problem for the engine, just put the tender draw bar at the 2nd hole giving it more room between the end of the cab and the tender.


I have run mine since march 2009. we just ran it on sunday for a while. I even was teaching my 7yr old daughter how to run it. they are that simple. my 9yr old son has it down pack. he's a diesel boy, but the fact that mine is real steam is an exception and he will run it. 


as far as long term maintenance, I havent really seen any nor have i really seen anyone in the club do any on their K27's and such. 

everyone seems to just oil it up before they run, fill 'em up and get to steam and run 'em. cool down is comprised of just running the engine without fire for as long as it will run and then just letting it cool down on a siding there is a valve to loosen up and let the water drip out under the luberication oil tank, but thats nothing too difficult. I have not added any options to my engine, no lights or water pumps, i just run it for the half hour and then let it sit for a bit, fill it back up and then run again. it works out good as someone else has something running during my down times. 

As far as getting it up to steam and then just letting it run for a half hour, I would only add to that, that you look at the sight glass every so often, you wouldnt want it to run out of water before fuel. 
I do want a bark box, but seem to be slow at looking for one.
I do want a whistle too, but again slow at looking for one.
I saw that extra water line too, I live in an area where it will get cold, but I dont plan on heating my bath water with the engine, I will just pour in hot water before I get underway. I am not sure if the boiler is big enough to do a whistle, it would be worth a try. the engine is ready to go around 60psi, but when its running I see it down around 40psi. not sure what one would need in order to be able to power a whistle.

if you get one, let me know and if you do a whistle and bark box I would be very interested in your results.

I bought this figuring it would be my only live steamer. now my wife and I are interested in the AML K4 live steam. I said that I will always only have 1 engine to myself, and I have kept it pretty much that way so far, so who knows what will happen. My wife has an Aristocraft 4-6-2 pacific with RC and sound, maybe we sell hers and mine and take the $ and just get the K4 for both of us to run. I will have to RC it for her as she wont want to get her fingers burnt 


Kevin


----------



## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Kevin,


*







DO NOT







pour in







HOT







water - you are asking for trouble. There may be a rapid expansion of the gas that the tank can not handle. Maybe luke warm water at most or just plain tap water temperature.*


----------



## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 10 Nov 2009 02:38 PM 
Kevin,


*







DO NOT







pour in







HOT







water - you are asking for trouble. There may be a rapid expansion of the gas that the tank can not handle. Maybe luke warm water at most or just plain tap water temperature.*

+1.

Adding HOT water to the gas tank bath is exactly the reason behind the early blow-ups with the AccuCraft Garratt - an expensive loco to blow up. At the very least, the rapidly expanding gas results in a couple of jets of liquid gas being propelled the entire length of the flue into the smoke-box, where they ignited, destroying the front of the engine in a fireball. 

At worst it will blow up the gas tank - as it did on a few of the early Garratt. The fix was a new gas tank that we all received gratis from AccuCraft, tested way beyond the usual maximum pressure expected of butane fuel, even when WARMED. 

tac
www.ovgrs.org


----------



## Anthony Duarte (Dec 27, 2007)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Well everyone, I don't think he was suggesting putting hot water into the tender water bath. I think he was suggesting putting hot water into the BOILER to get steam up quicker. It's a little unclear in the way it's phrased...


----------



## TY (Apr 8, 2009)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Hey there, 

I got this loco for the same reasons you're about to... It is an absolutely awesome live steam loco, especially for under a grand (right now). 
I agree with all of the responses you have gotten so far. I love this engine. 

Ideally, I would like two of them for my future expanded railway  (I will probably get the Vanderbilt tender version for the second one). 

I have already pre-ordered the K-4 from AML. I cannot wait to get it this spring and run them together!!

I outfitted the 0-6-0 with RC by using ideas I got from searching mylargescale. The most effective technique I found was the sprocket and chain method for the throttle valve. It was quite a feat of engineering and required some trial and error mechanics, but it has worked like a charm for every run since. It has made running the engine under load, on a grade a lot of fun!!

Here are the links where I first saw the idea:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...Terms=k-28
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

This video shows the same technique on a K-28: 



Here’s where I ordered the parts:

http://www.servocity.com/html...1227_.html 

Here’s the last video I made of my engine:



Here is the most reasonably priced dealer I have found for this model: 

http://rldhobbies.com/usra0-6-0switcher_1.aspxhttp://rldhobbies.com/usra0-6-0switcher_1.aspx

You will not be sorry if you get this loco. Thanks for the interest. Post some videos or pictures when you get it. Good luck! 

-Ty


----------



## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Well.......
I have used hot water from the kitchen sink before...I filled a glass and then poured that into the tender bath. this was my proceedure:
get a glass from the kitchen, fill it with hot water from the sink...its not boiling, but hot from the tap. not too hot to drink if someone wanted or too hot to burn the skin, the temp one would use to wash their hands.

pour it into the tender bath. Usually the train is stored indoors so its not like its a major temp change.
then I put the fuel in the tank.

I have to admit, I have only done this once. back in March. I never had any problems with it. I am not sure if the tank was empty or not, it wasnt the first time running the engine so I imagine there was some fuel in the tank, but I know it wasnt full nor was it just filled up.

There was a second time in April I used warm water, probably 80 degree water. But again, the bath is set before I fill the fuel. Since April, I have only used the water from the gal jug of distilled. 


Sounds like i made a mistake, but I still have my engine and all my fingers and toes so I couldnt have messed up that much.

I hope to do some winter operations with my snowplow on this engine. During these, I will stick with a bath of the distilled water from room temp.


Kevin


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

The word "Hot" is quite subjective. What does it really mean?

To some, it means the water that comes from the tap after it has run a while, but at what termperature is the hot water heater set? 115, 135, more, less? How far is it from the heater to the tap and how insulated is that pipe? How much water has been taken from the water heater before the tap was opened? AAAAALLLLL kinds of things will vary that temperature, even in the same house on different days or just before or how recently someone took a nice hot bath.

To others it means water that has been boiling and was just poured into their coffee cup to make a "hot cuppa Joe".

The problem here is that "hot" tap water was put into a room temperature glass and carried to the engine, (which may have taken a minute to walk it) so the water has had a chance to cool some from whatever temperature it WAS when it left the tap. This is probably (note the hesitancy on my part to state it as fact) not a problem... 

The fear is that some other novice, not knowing the properties of Butane or Butane/Propane mix. will read the word "HOT", hear of the improvement it brought on a "COLD" day (another subjective term) and will think, "Gee, i guess I should put a cup of water in the microwave for 2 minutes and pour that in the fuel tank water bath!"

BIG UH-OH!

This is no different than when someone says they read about soldering a boiler together and asks if plumbing solder is good enough. WE all panic and explain that the word "Solder" has several meanings and in boiler work we mean something more akin to brasing and that the "Solder" to use is "Silver Solder"... and not even "Silver Bearing Solder".

The need for the panic is because none of us wants to hear of someone getting hurt in a very pleasurable hobby. We are, after all, playing with fire, and making scalding water under pressure in our boilers and none of that should be considered a "PLAY THING". The fuel we use can be very dangerous if you are careless or don't understand it.

With the proper knowledge and care, Live Steam is no more dangereous than driving a car, but you are supposed to pass a test of your knowledge of driving before you get a license to do so. If we don't panic every once and a while about our toy trains I'd hate to think of what might happen.


----------



## TY (Apr 8, 2009)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

On the AML 0-6-0, the Johnson bar is connected to a piston in the middle of the steam chest that switches the direction of the steam flow to reverse the loco. The outside eccentrics operate the valve timing, but are fixed and do not control the direction of the engine via the Johnson bar. The engine appears to have the same steam chest and piston valves as the Ruby only with larger cylinders.


----------



## Cat22 (Oct 29, 2009)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Well... She's HERE.







I purchased the Burlington Northern AML 0-6-0 #505. I have to say that I am VERY PLEASED with the workmanship for only a $1,000.00 layout. 
I would like to thank all those that posted their responses to my questions, as they were very informative. I eagerly await the first steam up, but for now am working on the R/C solution. 
Speaking of which: Hey TY, got any photos or part numbers that you used. I reviewed the posts that you outlined, but just thought I could get a leg up from you since the K-27 / K-28 throttle is a little lower and roof mounting the throttle servo may not be possible.
I will post pictures/video's as soon as she's up and running.
Again, my thanks goes out to all those that posted responses to my questions.
Now... time to go burn my hands!!


----------



## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: Newbie with questions...also related questions to the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0 Switcher*

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 09 Nov 2009 09:29 PM 
As for R/C control of the Reverser lever to "notch up" and save steam, this can be done IF the valve gear has a proper Expansion Link AND working Combination Levers. Many of the less expensive ones do not. The Reverser lever only exchanges the "steam in" and "exhaust out" of the steam chest to reverse the engine and does not affect the valve event timing. Some people have claimed that on their loco that has this type of reverser that if they pull the lever back from "full" forward or reverse that the engine runs better, but that is because their valve is miss-adjusted and when it is in full forward it is too far forward and is acting to throttle the flow of steam and thus moving it back opens the ports a bit and the engine runs better. This is not the same as notching up on the valve gear.

I don't know which of the less expensive engines today have true valve gear, I know the Ruby and its derivatives do not and I do not believe the 3-cylinder Shay does either. I wish you could quadruple your budget and get an Aster Mikado like I have, which does react properly to notching up. I do dearly enjoy watching the valve gear operate... mesmerizing!



Dear Mr SV - on the AccuCraft Royal hudson the Johnson bar has two notches at either end of its travel - fully forward/reverse and another slightly to the rear/in front of - this enables a very limited amount of 'notching' to take place, though quite how this is achievable with a manually-operated loco in motion has so far taxed my poor brain far too much. AFAIK, this is the only model made by AC that has this facility - at least I haven't seen it on any other so far.

And you are right about the three-cylinder Shay, which is nothing more than three Ruby cylinders fixed pointing up, with the associated simple eccentric valve gear. I 'spose you might, if you had r/c, wongle the Johnson bar to a degree, but it would only cut off the steam until the loco came to a halt for lack of it.

Besp

tac
www.ovgrs.org


----------

