# some modifications to Big Hauler train set track



## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Hey Y'all;
Been making some modifications to Big Hauler train set track - something to which a slight misquote of Hamlet may be applicable, _"Though this be method, there is yet madness to it."_

Making some feeder connections from wiring and plugs stripped from Christmas light reels purchased for stripping the LED from. They do make an observable difference in performance on the large loop.

And ...

Trying my luck at creating track sections with insulating gaps. Am doing 2 straights and 2 curves.
Reinforced stringers under rails toward one end of piece. Sawed through both rails. Inserted sheet plastic to fill gap. Am adding imitation fishplates to outside of rail to help stabilize it.

Second step is to add headblocks from ties either side of block by cutting out one end of tie each side of gap, adding 6 inch piece of 1/4 by 1/4 basswood, then coming up with some way to mount an appropriately sized double pole, single throw, toggle switch where on a turnout the switchstand would be.

For now, the feeder wires provide power, plug it in for power, unplug to cut power. Kind of a what I'd call a trailer park ******* tech level method, but hey, it works for now









My track is currently at our model train club set up on floor under HO modular layout's yards. Track is classic oval with cutoff at one end. What I want to do is be able to park a train on either inner our outer track, shut off that track; then turn on other track, and run other train, rinse and repeat as desired. 

Theoretically, this will get you to a 10 picture album of the project, and my hairy little "helper", who knew model trains were a spectator sport, on Flickr https://flic.kr/s/aHsktynbLL


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Forrest

It is possible to easily have two trains and alternate their movement. I have used a loop with a passing siding for years that permits me to stop one train on the siding and send the other on the main in the opposite direction. It requires two diodes and four pieces of track, like LGB 1015U. This has a gap on one rail that lets you securely attach a diode across the gap.

We use this at a Christmas show to run Thomas counterclockwise and James clockwise.









It also requires manual spring return switches.

Here is a diagram of the track setup.











Park one train on the track between the gap and the diode and then change the polarity and the other train will run in the opposite direction.

Just make sure the trains will pass through the closed spring switch.

I also use this on my Patio and Southwestern layout in Arizona. I can easily stop one train and then start a second one in the opposite direction. 










I don't have to throw any switches in the engine to cut the power. However, with two engines on the passing sidings, I do have to turn one off.



Chuck


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Have seen that system, it is pretty neat.

The limitations here are that it is entirely Big Hauler train set track with its formed tinplate rails, plus a pair of Bachmann's compatible turnouts - which are not the new brass ones.
I have no other track, since I have no outdoor location to put up a track in an upper floor apartment; and, they make neither insulated track sections nor insulated rail joiners for their train set track.

This also gives freedom to run trains any combination of directions. And is fun to do just to see if it can be done.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Could you pull the pins out of the rails to make the gaps and then use insulating rail joiners? You should be able to put diodes across two of the gaps.

Split-jaw has insulating rail joiners and LGB has plastic slip on joiners. One or the other should be able to be made to work.

Chuck

PS I don't have any of the Bachmann switches. I do not know if they are spring switches, or not. I'm sure it is possible to make them work for this situation. The LGB manual throws work, perhaps they can be attached to the B'mann switches.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

The connecting pins, blades, indeed could be pulled, but I'm paranoid about breaking the "spike" tabs which secure rail to ties, that blade has a pretty deep tab going in below rail bottom. Which means rail has to be pulled far enough above ties and stringer to get that tab clear.
While the one "spike" looks pretty loose in the one photo, most are like the ones on that piece which is partly painted, fitting close enough to concern me about breaking them. 

IMG_2233 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_2232 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_2236 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

The rail joiners, however, are pretty simple to swap out. Sets came with several spares. Which have yet to be required.
Note that 'indoor use' rails are folded tinplate - folks unfamiliar with Big Hauler train set track, who later come across this thread, might not have known that; I didn't until I bought a couple sets in 2009.

IMG_2234 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_2235 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

And I love the macro lens on my poor, 7 year old, dropped several times because my hands have problems, camera.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

If you aren't too concerned about "damaging" the track for other uses, you could just cut the blades off flush with the end of the track. That would eliminate any concern about lifting the rails and breaking the tabs. Then you could use the insulated plastic joiners and you'd have an isolated section.

Just a thought.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I think that cutting the pin, as suggested by Dan, is a good idea. You could push the cutoff piece into the other rail. This will strengthen the track for the rail clamps or joiners.

Chuck


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

While cutting the pin is a good suggestion in and of itself, I'm doing this with 'kitchen table' style hobby tools and sawing on the cast metal pin is harder on my sucky health, which also involves things wrong with my hands, than taking a razor saw to the tinplate metal rails. As it is, I have to cut one rail then take a break before cutting the other.

A Dremel cutoff disk would cut faster and with less stress on my hands, and there is one I could use at our model train club, but nothing on-hand will allow the disk to get perpendicular to the rail; and it seemed cutting at an angle would increase the chance of loads on the rail pushing the railheads out of line.

Even though I should know they exist, I didn't much think of insulated rail joiners for regular gauge 1 track. Thinking about them now, they would have to be mail ordered, which with the relationship between Social Security payday and shipping time would push the track finishing past the somewhat but not 100% arbitrary time I want the feature usable, our club's open house this Saturday. 

Dang, I sure look like I'm being hard to get along with here  Oh dear.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Where do you hang your hat? There is a chance someone here is near you and could help.

Chuck

If you live near me, I'd be happy to help. I'm now in the Phoenix, AZ area. Most of the year I'm in northern Virginia.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Out near the Middle of Missouri in a county seat farm burg of population about 8,300.
We have a little model RR club with a HO modular layout about 20ft square, a Lionel layout of several sheets of plywood size, both long being works in progress, and a just begun N layout in a 15ft x 6ft large closet. 
Two guys, plus me, do G. At least one of the other two has an outdoor layout.
Both have known of my project for a while.
Seems I have a reputation at club for trying things no one else has thought of, or tried: Except DCC, and working block signaling, I haven't gone there.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Talk to your fellow "G" gaugers. They might be able to help. We have given you some ideas, talk to them and and see what happens.

Chuck


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