# Getting across the tracks.



## dorrdon (Jun 26, 2012)

Probably a stupid question, but the way my yard is setup, and the track plan I’m trying to implement, makes it necessary to move people and things across the tracks. Things like a lawnmower and a laden wheel barrow. A laden wheelbarrow is too heavy to just roll across the tracks without damaging them, or lift it over. What solutions have others come up with for this?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

embedding in concrete, wood around it.

Remember though that track is pretty sturdy with force applied directly down on it:


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Is it possible for you to have a section of your track lower that the ground either side so that you can lay something over the tracks, but not touching?
Or even have it go into a tunnel so that you can take stuff over the tunnel?
Or if the track is above ground level anywhere, have a removable bridge section?
Or is your yard just 'flat'?
I'm sure that you will find a way.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Do what the big boys do. Create a "grade crossing"... trench a length where the track will go, lay a good foundation and set the track on it and add hard surfacing on both sides and between the rails to the level of the top of the rail, but leave a flangeway on the inside edge of each rail.

As Greg's photo shows, with a good foundation, an elephant can stand on it... BUT a wee tyke could rip the track up if he/she were to trip over the track. Hitting the rail from the side with a small wheeled vehicle might displace the rail/track... even rip the rail off the ties. It will need supported from the sides more than on the bottom and the best way to keep something from hitting the rails from the side is to build up the surrounding surface to the level of, or a wee bit above the top of the rail.

The foundation could be just a pressure treated 1x6 board or concrete pavers or bricks. The top of the base should be below the grade by the height of the track (ties plus rail), unless you want to have a ramp up and down to cross the track.


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## dorrdon (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks for the responses.


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## Postalbiker (May 23, 2014)

you could try cutting a dado into a 2X6 that fits over the track,,


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I had a similar issue where I needed to get things like lawn mowers, wheelbarrows, etc. from my shed, across my backyard, and into the front of the house. This meant crossing the RR twice. Not wanting to spend a lot of money on commercial products I chose a cheap and dirty solution.
First, 3 inches of paver base followed by 8x16 pavers level with the track base. The track is placed on the pavers and I then used PVC slats from an old blind, painted grey and held in place with silicone caulk.



















The slats are about the same height as the rail. The caulk is applied only to the pavers on the side and only to the track between the rails. This allows for movement of the track along it's length. I suppose any non-degradable material could be used instead of the blind slats.
Hope this helps.


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## dorrdon (Jun 26, 2012)

Awesome! - I like it. Thanks for sharing.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

Look here


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I had a major crossing on my new layout....
The main pedestrian pathway actually crossed over 3 tracks. To avoid the risk of damage and tripping, i've built a bridge over the tracks 32in wide, 60in long, and 12in above the rails. The crossing is located on a slope, so one side of the pedestrian bridge approach was quite easy to fill. The other side required much more fill, as it now combines the natural slope and the elevation drop from the bridge. This side has both a rampway for wheelbarrows and also a few steps which branch off to the side for walkers.


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

I use the following methods for my walkways. It's been in place 9 years and have never had a problem with track being damaged. The track is placed just below the level of the top of the brick. I have a large lawn & garden tractor that regularly has to cross the main entrance.



















Regards,
Mark
http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

I did something similar to mgilger above, although with two tracks. My track at that point is 332 SS Aristo, and I have repeatedly rolled heavy things over it for around six years. I think the key is to make sure the track is well supported, in my case by ballast, and as noted keep the track level slightly lower than the pavers/sidewalk. 

Plus it's funny to watch visitors carefully step over the track, and then roll a fully laden yard recycling cart over it. ;-)


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## sharpn (Apr 30, 2012)

I needed to run track across the front of the Garage and drive the car across it. I couldn't lower the track into the concrete, so I raised the area alongside and between the lines using rubber tiles, glued to rubber backing on top of the concrete. The tops of the tiles are flush with the rail tops.
These are the sort of tiles used around swimming pools and in play areas. They come in 500mm squares and can be easily cut to size with a jigsaw.
I then lay rubber mats across the tracks to take the wheels of the car. [not shown in pic] When I want to run the trains, I just lift the mats off. The mat in the background of the second picture is similar to the 2 that I lay across the tracks in front of the garage. Works very well.

Click on the pics for larger view.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

If you don't have the time or tools to build something you can look at what Split Jaw has:

http://www.railclamp.com/#!/~/category/id=3572110&offset=0&sort=normal


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a few spots where foot and wagon traffic go over. 
One is on a step off a deck and I took the 5 quarter decking by 36" piece of PT wood I used for steps and routed out a groove for the track with ties to fit in. The rails are level with the unrouted sides.
Not far away is a lift out bridge where I built a U shaped girder bridge out of wood with the track just sticking out of the ends. This 1/8th of track stickign out sits on track joiners that I cut the edges off. 
Another spot of track about 4' long is recessed into a PT 2x4 structure that is glued and screwed and shaped like a U. This one is at ground level for foot traffic, wagon and lawnmower to go over. 
If you support the code 332 track properly it will take alot of abuse.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

I used the Split Jaw solution that Jim mentioned a couple of posts above this one. I had to dado out the people bridge but it wasn't hard. So far, people and wheel barrows full of dirt haven't been an issue. Give them a call and they'll do a custom fit.
For some unknown reason photo-bucket isn't letting me do copy paste this morning but there are several pic's of the "walk-on track" in my thread in Track, and Trestle forum 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-t...bed/25868-beginner-s-site-southern-az-27.html

Have fun


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm planning on getting the split jaw solution, have some double track just outside a door to the house... how did you like the quality of the product, and what color plastic did you get?

Greg


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