# T1 Woes



## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

I picked up my T1 earlier in the week. Looks absolutely fantastic........

However, when I examined the machine in more detail this evening - the front engine is extremely stiff - I rigged up an airtest and the rear engine burst into action very quickly. The front was barely moving. I started problem determination - the wheels rotate freely and the cross heads move OK - the issue seems to be with the cylinders







Took off the piston covers and removed the pistons which are, to say the least, a little crude compared to their Aster bretheren. Unlike modern Asters that use a pair of Rulon piston rings, this piston has a single o-ring that seemed to be the source of the problem. Found a replacement in my box of spares, re-assembled and now the air test works great (phew!) on both engines. Beats me why Accucraft quality control didn't do the elementary check that the wheels rotated freely. 

Reminded me why 1) I like Aster and 2) I like building the machines myself in the first place. I wonder what else I will find. 

Robert


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

Robert, glad you solved the problem. I also wish Accucraft (and other makes) used Rulon. This is no rocket science anymore (it used to be). But please remember, Aster delivers kits. and very few RTR engines. It is pointless to compare a kit with a RTR engine - or a pre-assembled kit ATR;-), using model aeroplane terminology. Best, Zubi


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

I do understand the distinction and I guess that is the source of my frustration. A ready assembled model needs to be subject to some level of quality control so that it has a chance of working out of the box. My only previous Accucraft purchase (GS4) had to be shipped to Triple R before it worked well. It is a pity as I really like the big streamliners from the Golden age of steam and don't have much hope that Aster US will ever commission another whereas I hear rumors of a whole fleet from Accucraft......

Robert


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

Better day - I had the T1 up on rollers - spews out oil for the first few minutes and didn't exactly leap into life but once it started it was great. Small leak from the axle pump which I need to sort out but otherwise good. I deliberately had the throttle wide to settle everything in - it will be interesting to see what she is like on the track - seems like she will pull a good load. BTW - the video glitches somewhat and the strange intermittent sound was the first burbling of the safeties.


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

Sounds good


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

The T1 we received had a lope in the rotation of the rear drivers. This situation had to be fixed prior to any test runs. The lope was due to something locking up the rear wheel set at a point in the rotation that could be pushed passed but it was not free wheeling. First indicator of what might be causing this situation was the bolt head on the driver hitting the crosshead guide. That was the plan going into the situation, simple clearance of the bolt. Well....that was done then turned the engine over to check the engine rolling it along the track: lock up again...(not the simple situation we had hoped).

This photo represents the work engaged to fix the situation:









Link to other work photos of the process: T1work
To remedy the lockup situation of the rear engine we had to :

Clearance the bolt on the driver in relationship to crosshead guides
Quarter the both rear wheel sets
Align the cross head guide hanger

Rolling smooth and ready to test fire. We also trimmed and repacked the wicks. 

Wick configuration as removed from the fire box and then photo of repacked/trimmed wicks


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello Charles, what wick material do you use ?


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow those wick holders look almost like .50 cal shells!! I was only using .44 MAG!


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve
At the present the stock material just regrouped, trim and shaped. Once we test fire and have a base line performance overview could be revisited.

Dave
Yes, huge is an under statement for a gauge one engine! That is a lot of fuel going into those containers.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Charles on 16 Aug 2012 02:30 PM 
Steve
At the present the stock material just regrouped, trim and shaped. Once we test fire and have a base line performance overview could be revisited.

Dave
Yes, huge is an under statement for a gauge one engine! That is a lot of fuel going into those containers.

No wonder the T1 uses so much fuel. Although if you can afford to pay for these engines what we have to pay, a l;ittle extra not so bad for the enjoyment. Look what it costs to go to the movies today and when you get thru you have nothing to show for it. At least with the steaming ,you are either sunburned or your fingers are scorched.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Out of curiosity, is that wick material fiberglas or cotton or ?? 


Greg


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I heard from a French friend who has his T1 now. 
He reported a couple of 'woes'. 
His safety valves needed adjustment, but due to the shrouding he was not able to unscrew them so had to file a little first. 
Also one of the four piston rods unscrewed itself from the crosshead. 
Fortunately he caught it before any damage done. 
As I suggest to all owners of new Accucraft locos, take an hour to go over everything from front to back to make sure all is tight. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Charles, 
That has to be the very worst example of wicks that I have ever seen!!!! 
The FIRST photo that is. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 16 Aug 2012 04:33 PM 
I heard from a French friend who has his T1 now. 
He reported a couple of 'woes'. 
His safety valves needed adjustment, but due to the shrouding he was not able to unscrew them so had to file a little first. 
Also one of the four piston rods unscrewed itself from the crosshead. 
Fortunately he caught it before any damage done. 
As I suggest to all owners of new Accucraft locos, take an hour to go over everything from front to back to make sure all is tight. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 

David, 

One worry I have is that when I disassembled the front cylinders to fix the binding issue, I saw little evidence of locking compound including where the piston rods screw into the cross heads. Usual evidence of the presence of Loctite 222 or similar is a little resistance to the turn and then some white residue. Nothing on the piston rods or the 6 screws on each of the cylinder covers. 

Having said all this, it is a beautiful engine and looks amazing with those coaches you built for me. Just a shame that my track is under reconstruction.....


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

First test run for the T1. When it ran, it ran well...then it locked up! Rear engine continues to have a problem after quartering, cross head guide fix. Overall the test run for about 30 minutes showed it is indeed oil happy with excessive amounts. As to fuel and water is seems to be very reasonable. What could it be that is impeding the rear engine :
Axle pump
Piston head
Piston rod length
Piston rod loose
Timing issue

Video T1 test run 


So, more investigation. Unibody configuration

T1 break down photo


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Based on the first test run and the check list:
Axle pump- hone the cylinder
Piston head- polish head and checked rings
Piston rod length-had to make sure both were even,one side was about a 1/16 off in length
Piston rod loose-no
Timing issue-yes the slip eccentric slipped
Oil consumption- bad but corrected with reduction of pipe

So, with a we made a second run. The engine ran well for 45 minutes but then it developed a loud exhaust sound and a bit more oil usage. Probably a piston O ring going bad. Again, the rear engine locked up. Back to the bench. Hope to resolve for another test run by the weekend.




Posted By Charles on 19 Aug 2012 11:14 AM 
First test run for the T1. When it ran, it ran well...then it locked up! Rear engine continues to have a problem after quartering, cross head guide fix. Overall the test run for about 30 minutes showed it is indeed oil happy with excessive amounts. As to fuel and water is seems to be very reasonable. What could it be that is impeding the rear engine :
Axle pump
Piston head
Piston rod length
Piston rod loose
Timing issue

Video T1 test run 


So, more investigation. Unibody configuration

T1 break down photo


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Charles,
It seems like you got the lemon of the bunch, or is anyone else having similar problems? I haven't yet worked on mine to solve the short runs and lack of steam production, but my wicks looked like your original wicks so I'll be trimming mine to see if that alleviates the poor steaming problem. Also, one of my wicks fell out during shipping, but that was quickly solved when I notices alcohol all over the track. Luckily, I had not lit them!
Accucraft should be advertising these as "ARR", Almost Ready to Run.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Charles
I dont know how the T-1 axle pump compares to the Aster Big Boy, but when my BB rear locked up it was due to the axle pump piston not going completely into the 
cylinder opening causing it to lack rear engine. If the pump entry is tilted the slightest it can cause the cylinder from complete entry. At least that has happened with the BB.


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## Two Blocked (Feb 22, 2008)

Charles and Ryan, it looks like you both are in your element "pathfinding" the PRR T-1 for the rest of us. Please keep it up! 
When I first saw the photo depicting one of the loco's drivers in dismount, I could have sworn that I heard a collective "ahhhhhhhh-what"? from computer spaces all over the T-1 Accucraft universe, as removing a driver requires re-quartering upon reassembly. In my experience this is a big hurdle to most model owners that have never built up a kit. I am asking both of you to detour during the reassembly of the T-1 to cover this somewhat daunting process, in a pictorial way, so that you both might use your existing forum to clear up the "mystery measurements" for us all. There is already a photo of Ryan using a gear puller to remove one driver, but to the unsuspecting it is not really obvious what's going on. 
At Unit Shop I use a combination of surface plate [tomb stone], cast iron angle plate, and Johanson blocks to do the job, but I'll bet you have a far better tool and technique to do it in your production setting. I believe that your approach to accurate drive wheel quartering, once shared, will attenuate the sound of knocking knees in computer rooms of T-1 owners as your further adventures with the loco unfold. I thank you for your service to our community. 
I am surprised at the physical dimensions of the alcohol burner assembly! I looks like it's designed to power a Gauge Three locomotive. Taming it will have a tremendous impact on those operators that have no prior experience with alcohol firing. I'm thinking ahead to the next Summer Steamup, and to offering an alcohol firing dissertation/workshop to the gents who put it on. They say that we'll be back in an air conditioned space next year; bravo!


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Charles 

In regard to the intermittent binding problem in forward... A suggestion was passed to me to check that one of the crank pin screws on the engineers side is not "screwing itself in" because the bolt is not properly shouldered. In this case it will tighten during running. Revolving the wheels in reverse a few revolutions loosens the screw and the engine will run for a few minutes before tightening up again. I was reminded that the original [prototype] AC-6 had this problem. 

BTW, will I see the BEAST on Sunday?


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

It's a nice looking engine but why can't accucraft make engines that run perfect out of the box? They cost thousands and to have problems brand new is ridiculous. Just what untill the big boy comes out


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

P1987 

For exactly the same reason that if you buy a Mercedes Benz, a Cadillac, or a Jaguar you will probably have at least two safety recalls in the first 18 months, and untold issues with "fit and finish". NO MONEY is spent on quality control at the level of: 
a] validating the design... ie the production guys do not follow the original design specs 
b] QC of the individual parts before assembly 
c] final QC of the assembled unit 
d] actual test [like even 15 minutes of running of the unit]

I purchased a GS4 Daylight that had a boiler certificate indicating it had passed pressure testing. Water ran out of a poor solder joint between a flue and the back head as water was being put in the boiler. NO PRESSURE. Got a new boiler. 

Friends have purchased custom built locos from very reputable builders that have had things that needed "fixing" within only hours of being taken out of the box. Amazingly, a large percentage appear to be "failure to use Loctite" on screws that quickly come loose while running.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim Thanks for the potential situation to look at in finding the solution. Relative to Dr. Rivet's indicators on production problems...a good visual of what it takes to bring about a producton of any locomotive no matter the qantity just visit the Aster USA website and select Challenger to see the numerous parts necessary. Seeing all those parts should bring one to the realization to make one or more at the level of perfection is almost impossible (that is way there is tolerance built in to most all aspects of design and function). We are not dissappointed in the T1 but welcome the opportunity to better understand the design through the problem at hand. Problem solving the situaiton is engaging making it almost a reverse "kit build"experience from Accucraft. (Even if there was not a production problem we would have made the exploration in preparation for conversion to coal fire.) blockquote> Posted By Dr Rivet on 21 Aug 2012 08:27 AM 
Charles 

In regard to the intermittent binding problem in forward... A suggestion was passed to me to check that one of the crank pin screws on the engineers side is not "screwing itself in" because the bolt is not properly shouldered. In this case it will tighten during running. Revolving the wheels in reverse a few revolutions loosens the screw and the engine will run for a few minutes before tightening up again. I was reminded that the original [prototype] AC-6 had this problem.  

BTW, will I see the BEAST on Sunday? That is the plan (btw-weather looks grand)!!


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

Ouch that sucks. Good thing it's fixed now Jim


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Police, or whatever your name is, 
READ what Jim said. 
"Got a new boiler". 
It's Accucraft - you don't get angry, you call Cliff and get it fixed. 
You're in the wrong hobby if you are going to get angry. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

David from CANADA--- What are you talking about getting angry??????


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

There was a huge controversy a few years ago when a dealer took a "new" Live Steamer and fired it up to prove that it was okay and then got mercilessly chastised for then advertising it as "new and tested" because, the complainers said, it was now a "used" engine and should not be sold as new at a new price! 

Manufacturer's cannot win at this. 

How can the factory know the assembly is right if they don't test it, but customers that find a "new" loco with oil and water in/on it make all kinds of complaints about it possibly being something returned to the dealer by a dissatisfied customer and being passed off as "new".


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

Police: its time to come out of the closet and buy a locomotive. Then you will have something worthwhile to talk about. 

One thing you will find in this part of the hobby is that most everyone knows everyone else and if you need help, you'll get lots of good help quickly.


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

When Bob Pennock [Cross Creek Engineering] was selling locomotives he had a policy that all Accucraft locomotives were shipped to him. Unless a customer specifically declined in writing, every engine was unpacked, inspected, test fired, and then run to insure that there were no problems. If all was OK, Bob repacked the engine and shipped [or hand delivered] each locomotive. If there were issues he resolved them with Cliff, up to and including returning an engine for a replacement. Because of the level of service he provided, no one [that I know of] ever complained that he charged full retail. If you purchased an Aster factory built loco from him, he would do the same if asked. 

Sadly those days are gone as Bob's health has deteriorated significantly and he is in assisted living. I know that Trevor at Gauge One UK does the same with all locomotives produced from him... and he has lots of happy customers because he found the lemons in the box first. 

As long as we as customers value "lowest initial purchase price" over all other considerations, including lack of after sales support, we reap what we sow.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Police1987 on 21 Aug 2012 12:27 PM 
David from CANADA--- What are you talking about getting angry?????? 
I DISLIKE POSTERS WHO EDIT THEIR REMARKS AFTER A REPLY HAS BEEN POSTED! 
Now THAT makes me angry. 
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

Thumper- Thank you for your comment


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr Rivet on 21 Aug 2012 02:19 PM 
When Bob Pennock [Cross Creek Engineering] was selling locomotives he had a policy that all Accucraft locomotives were shipped to him. Unless a customer specifically declined in writing, every engine was unpacked, inspected, test fired, and then run to insure that there were no problems. If all was OK, Bob repacked the engine and shipped [or hand delivered] each locomotive. If there were issues he resolved them with Cliff, up to and including returning an engine for a replacement. Because of the level of service he provided, no one [that I know of] ever complained that he charged full retail. If you purchased an Aster factory built loco from him, he would do the same if asked. 

Sadly those days are gone as Bob's health has deteriorated significantly and he is in assisted living. I know that Trevor at Gauge One UK does the same with all locomotives produced from him... and he has lots of happy customers because he found the lemons in the box first. 

As long as we as customers value "lowest initial purchase price" over all other considerations, including lack of after sales support, we reap what we sow. 

Gordon Watson also still continues to do the same inspections testing. Even goes as far as making any repairs necessary prior to delivery. We have some dealers that you cant even get them to respond to orders or questions nevermind testing the loco that they are selling you. I was not aware that Bob used to do that prior to his health declining.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Some of you "gentlemen" are about to get this thread shut down. *Anyone * is welcome to post on MLS so long as they don't break[/b] *the rules!* In case you need a refresher...

*1.1 - Courtesy to other members at all times is the Cardinal Rule here on myLargescale.com (aka "MLS"). Personal attacks, insults, and/or flames will not be tolerated, nor will heated arguments. Impersonal debate on products, methods, etc. is fine, just keep it civil.
*
*1.6 - Any post which is deemed inappropriate for any reason may be edited or deleted at the sole discretion of the Moderators. "Inappropriate" includes, but is not limited to, posts which violate any of the above.
*
If you don't like someone or if you find someone annoying, IGNORE THEM!!![/b] I don't understand why that's so difficult for some of you. This place is starting to resemble some kind of exclusive stupid little "click" and that's *NOT* what MLS is about!! Every single one of us started out knowing next to nothing about our hobby, and every single one of us asked tons of questions at one time or another. Some of the same people who are sending mod alerts now about things getting "cluttered up" are the same people who also did so not long ago when another new member was asking lots of questions. Again, this is *NOT* what MLS is about. How about we all start acting like adults? MLS isn't your private playground. At a minimum, _please show some common courtesy._ 
You've been warned.


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

David, please don't get angry with edits. I've had to do it on several occasions to correct typos caused by PHAT PHINGERS when Arthuritis kicks in when I should have but didn't use spellcheck. It seems like errors always appear immediately after I've hit the "Submit" icon. 
Regards,

Will


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Will, 
I have no problem with that at all. 
It is when the ENTIRE content is changed that makes my response of no value, that makes me angry. 
Still working on your cars! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Police1987 (Jun 16, 2012)

Let's see some pictures of those cars David. What is the normal turn around time for them?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, changing the contents of the post 180 degrees is not right. If you said something, stand by it. Don't change your post and make the person who replied to what you originally said look like a fool, and newcomers to the thread won't understand.

Do that to enough people on the forum and no one will talk to you. Basic internet etiquette. The editing function is to correct errors, not retract or change your position. If you really said something stupid, apologize.

Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

As stated not all goes well with new products. I have has issues with my K-4 but have had excellent help from Clif and other to solve my problems. As mentioned that is what the forum is all about and I have gotten the answers to my problems because the of the knowledgeable folks here. Later RJD


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, breakdown #2 we believe the problem was found on the rear engine..can you spot the situation:










Some other related photos on the check up of the T1:


T1breakdown


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## steamupdad (Aug 19, 2008)

Piston not secured to piston rod properly. Assembly defect. That's "quality" control for ya.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Best I can tell is the cylinders fell off.

and the front edge of the work bench is rather chewed up.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 24 Aug 2012 09:02 PM 
Best I can tell is the cylinders fell off.

and the front edge of the work bench is rather chewed up.


Well, the cylinder falling off would have be spectacular during a steamup...how about taken off. "Chewed up" more like marks evidence of many hours of work..enjoyed the insight.

Again, it ran well for 45 minutes (with fuel to spare and some oil left- restricted oil line) Here is the problem (note the piston towards the rear of the cylinder):


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

You mean that there is no shoulder on the piston rod, or not threaded? 
Or did the internal threads give up and allow the piston to slide along the rod? 
Oh dear. 
That is not too good. 
Glad that I didn't get one for sure, as i would expect that the be a warranty situation. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

David
Yes, same with the CP Hudson just a press fit.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Well, I guess nothing wrong with a 'good' press fit. 
So, how are you fixing it? 
Just some strong loctite and re-press fit it? 
All the best, 
David Leech Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

David
As we have with all retrofit of this nature: silver brazing.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi folks: I am the French Pennsy freak David talks about, and let me say that what he advises, is good advice: When I looked the loco over before a first steaming (I actually spent over a couple of days just drooling over it and enjoying it visually) I noticed that one of the piston rods seemed unscrewed, but I thought it was just one of the rods had been tapped a bit too far at first. But when it locked up after a half an hours running, I shut her down to let her cool off a bit. Then took it indoors to the shop and checked that first. Lo and behold, There were more threads than before! so I screwed it back in with a touch of locktight after degreasing and ever since she performs fine. So do make a good look over before you fire it up you won't regret it. Check for loose screws etc. 
Great job though and thanks all who give their advice it is a great help when one is in trouble. And for those nasty comments about Accucraft, I have had quite a lot of problems on Asters also especially on some of the used ones I bought, trouble with dezincification of clack valves and so on (Think back a few years: Did Aster ever provide a plug for double exhaust French locos?). I think the T1 is a great value for what it costs. I do agree though about the Rulon piston rings , they are really great and trouble free, and Accucraft should adopt them as soon as they can. 
Compared to continental compounds (as multicylinder locos go) of course the T1 uses up a lot of fuel, but the Pennsy was sitting on top of one of the richest vein of coal in the world, they didn't care so much about fuel expenses, so the model is pretty greedy too, it makes sens. I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to try and reduce the cylinder diameter just a bit, after all we can't notch up on a slip excentric, how else could we economise steam a bit? The real ones had smaller cylinders... But it is a fabulous loco if they really did get to 120 MPH that's almost the first generation TGV speed! back in '45, with no overhead wires to hang, thats absolutely fantastic. It is also great for us small scale live steamers, as our engines run too fast; but with the T1 it is just about right! 
We are just beggining to experiment this, but apparently to turn off a meth fired loco instantly the trick is to cover up the chimney with a big rag (watch out, it gets very hot of course) and open the blower! it turns the meth off in an instant. It worked wit my T1. It was the only unsolved problem with meths firing. Meth firing may seem crude and old fashioned to those who aren't used to it but it has many advantages over gas, for one it is very hard to experience a flue colapse with meths, wereas with gas it is quite easy and common accident . On small scale engines that is a factor one should not overlook. If I figure out how to post photos on this forum, I will post some of my T1 with some of David's beautifull coaches in tow and some of my own too. Keep up the great stuff, Simon


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By du-bousquetaire on 08 Sep 2012 04:57 PM 
Hi folks: I am the French Pennsy freak David talks about, and let me say that what he advises, is good advice: When I looked the loco over before a first steaming (I actually spent over a couple of days just drooling over it and enjoying it visually) I noticed that one of the piston rods seemed unscrewed, but I thought it was just one of the rods had been tapped a bit too far at first. But when it locked up after a half an hours running, I shut her down to let her cool off a bit. Then took it indoors to the shop and checked that first. Lo and behold, There were more threads than before! so I screwed it back in with a touch of locktight after degreasing and ever since she performs fine. So do make a good look over before you fire it up you won't regret it. Check for loose screws etc. 
Great job though and thanks all who give their advice it is a great help when one is in trouble. And for those nasty comments about Accucraft, I have had quite a lot of problems on Asters also especially on some of the used ones I bought, trouble with dezincification of clack valves and so on (Think back a few years: Did Aster ever provide a plug for double exhaust French locos?). I think the T1 is a great value for what it costs. I do agree though about the Rulon piston rings , they are really great and trouble free, and Accucraft should adopt them as soon as they can. 
Compared to continental compounds (as multicylinder locos go) of course the T1 uses up a lot of fuel, but the Pennsy was sitting on top of one of the richest vein of coal in the world, they didn't care so much about fuel expenses, so the model is pretty greedy too, it makes sens. I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to try and reduce the cylinder diameter just a bit, after all we can't notch up on a slip excentric, how else could we economise steam a bit? The real ones had smaller cylinders... But it is a fabulous loco if they really did get to 120 MPH that's almost the first generation TGV speed! back in '45, with no overhead wires to hang, thats absolutely fantastic. It is also great for us small scale live steamers, as our engines run too fast; but with the T1 it is just about right! 
We are just beggining to experiment this, but apparently to turn off a meth fired loco instantly the trick is to cover up the chimney with a big rag (watch out, it gets very hot of course) and open the blower! it turns the meth off in an instant. It worked wit my T1. It was the only unsolved problem with meths firing. Meth firing may seem crude and old fashioned to those who aren't used to it but it has many advantages over gas, for one it is very hard to experience a flue colapse with meths, wereas with gas it is quite easy and common accident . On small scale engines that is a factor one should not overlook. If I figure out how to post photos on this forum, I will post some of my T1 with some of David's beautifull coaches in tow and some of my own too. Keep up the great stuff, Simon 


Simon
Check your wicks, the T1 is not bad with fuel. With proper wick setup over an hour run on a tank of fuel. Glad to see the review and success of you PRR T1


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

Finally, after getting the kinks [not many] out of my T1, I had one of the best runs I've had with any locomotive I've ever owned. The biggest or most serious problem I've had is with the wicks, and they've been replaced and properly trimmed. 

Saturday, starting out with a full boiler and tender tank and full alcohol tank, I had a run of about 65 minutes when I had to shut it down. Others needed time on the track too. 

At the end of the run, before removing the loco from the track, I suctioned the fuel tank of remaining alcohol. To my surprise, 240 ml remained after a completely uneventful run. Although the load was light with only 5 MTH coaches - still waiting for my full rake David - everything worked well. I must say that it likes a relatively full boiler, but even when the water level got a little low, the properly installed and trimed wicks kept up with a fully closed bypass valve while the axle pump injected about 300 ml of cool water into the boiler. 

In conclusion, about half of the steam oil was consumed as was 260 ml of alcohol and a little more than 1/2 gallon of distilled water - all for a run of about 65 minutes. 

I've become one very happy T1 owner. Now all I have to do is build a couple cases for the loco and tender.

Regards, 

Will


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

And here is a video of Will's run...



He even shared the rails with my old Pearse Welshpool & Llanfair Countess...


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

I notice on all the videos posted here that trains behind the T1 s are pretty short. Over the last year or two, we found that the pilot models had a prodigeous appetite for a decent load, so we were hanging up to 20 coaches on the drawbar.........like all alcohol fired engines they need a load and are much easier to run with something to get their shoulder into.

David M-K
Ottawa


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

David, you know there are very limited choices for 1:32 passenger rolling stock, so you run what you have. Sometime soon, my T1 will have a Loewy rake to pull. I'll post more videos then. Early indications are that this is a very strong yet economical engine. 
In the mean time, do you have any MTH PRR coaches you want to sell?


Regards, 

Will


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

Posted By thumper on 19 Sep 2012 07:25 PM 
David, you know there are very limited choices for 1:32 passenger rolling stock, so you run what you have. Sometime soon, my T1 will have a Loewy rake to pull. I'll post more videos then. Early indications are that this is a very strong yet economical engine. 
In the mean time, do you have any MTH PRR coaches you want to sell?


Regards, 

Will 

Pullman streamliners are about as simple a coach as there is to make. I made 10 of them plus a round ended observation about 25 years ago with absolutely no specialist equipment except a drillpress and tablesaw. I had 'em tricked out in the Loewy Fleet of Modernism livery and they ran behind my K4s. After I sold it to you I converted them into CP coaches to go behind my Royal Hudson by changing the ends and making the distinctive CP trucks to go under them. Each coach cost me well under $60 to make and they were not difficult. Apart from the wheels (which are standard G1MRA 36" steel wagon wheels available to members) the most expensive items were the Kadee 820 couplers. I ran them at DH for 4 days back in 2008 behind the pre production RH and though people assumed they were DeltaDave coaches, they are not as fine as his but then you pays yer money and takes yer choice. If I knew how to attach photos of them I would.

David M-K
Ottawa


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

David,

Could these be the coaches of which you speak, on the beginning of this video from DH 2008?


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

That's them Tom, and that's the pilot RH that Dick transformed from the Sacremento slug to a free steaming and powerful bullet. 

David M-K


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm thinking that those coaches would look fine behind any engine of appropriate type. Do you have any information or guidance available as to your methods or techniques? I have a drill press AND a table saw and I'm not afraid to use them. Did you perhaps document and publish in G1MRA?

I've got a K4 that's shivering with dread at the thought of having to pull freight cars! (There is photgraphic evidence of that actually taking place at least once in real life!)


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

No I didn't because I got the inspiration from a couple of articles by John Clegg and Stuart Hine in the G1MRA Newsletter back in the 1970s. More recently David Leech documented his methods (much the same) in the G1MRA N/L & Journal. Also Paul Huntington wrote an article a few years back for the set of coaches he made for his Hiawatha. If I was going to do it today I wouldn't punch out the window openings in the aluminum shells but have them water jet cut, more expensive but still pretty cheap and alot less work. The round end observation body I made from 1/16" birch plywood on 3/8" birch ply base and end, I made the roof from solid basswood using a homemade cutter for the router, again a simple profile.
So in answer to your question I didn't because of all the previous info available and besides, I haven't got enough time to write it all.........too much to do and tempus fugit!

David M-K
Ottawa


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

So maybe the G1MRA publication "Modelling in Gauge 1 - Book 4 - Coaching Stock" might have the information I might need to get a start on this project? 

David M-K or David Leech: Any time frame on the David Leech articles? (I've only been a G1MRA member for a few years.) 

(What's the deal with all these Davids interested in passenger cars?







)


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I was looking at this old topic and although I usually don't try to restart old topics any more (now that I understand better how a forum works) But I have some interesting info for T1 users that completes some of the things we said in the forum before hand: 

I can run the loco for hours and have done so at exhibitions here, even with fairly heavy trains. To save sucking out all the oil at starting I use the drain cocks for a pretty good long run before shutting down about 8 or ten meters if possible. We once had a friend who bought his over and suffered the failure of the square shaped part that holds the pivot to the draw bar on the tender. This part has a square opening that lets the silicon meth tube go from the sump to the burner on the engine. It came unsoldered. We fixed that by drilling a hole in it and tapping it to replace with a screw what was a soldered joint (the darn thing has to haul the entire weight of the train fellows, lets be serious.) This has not happenred yet on mine... But I did loose the tenders rear pilot beam on my E 6 : faulty solder joint. It too was screwed in order to remain in place after soldering.

Now about what I said about reducing the cylinders. This was because I thought eroneously at the time that these were just the stock Accucraft cylinders (like on the Royal Hudson for instance). Dick Abbott visited us at one of my steamups and he confirms that in the design they did reduce the cylinder diameter, which is probably the reason why we find this loco quite economic in fuel. I was interested in that issue because with slip excentrics you cannot notch up.


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