# walk-on track



## post oak and otter lake (Dec 27, 2007)

The Chief Financial Officer of the Post Oak & Otter Lake Railroad was receptive to an idea I mention this past weekend. I said that I was thinking about laying some track on the living room floor. She had been thinking the same thing and thought it was a great idea.
The area is about 18' X 25' and at least half that will be across traffic areas. I checked the Split Jaw web site for their walk on track. Since I didn't get any of the federal stimulus money for railroads I don't think I will be able to go that route. Anyone with suggestions on how to have walk on track?
Also I was wondering about Switchcrafter's Aluminum Code 332 rail since it is a lot cheaper than Aristocraft brass. I don't think it would stand up as well to traffic and the indoor layout would be track powered.


Roger
Post Oak & Otter Lake RR
Caddo Mills TX


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Anyone with suggestions on how to have walk on track 
Roger, 

We've had a few threads on track running under/thru driveways, which usually requires concrete; not quite what you had in mind. 

You want to protect the rails and ties from side pressure and twisting. Get some thin wood the thickness of the ties (approx) and some more the height of the rails above the ties. [Home Depot has plywood, alder planks, and masonite, etc.] Lay a 6"+ strip of wood alongside the ties and another strip on top of that butting up to the rail. Cut another strip to fit between the rails minus a flangeway. Repeat on the other side of the rails - you're building a steetcar track. You'll need a way to cut curves! 

The rail and ties can take the weight if you spread it around.


----------



## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I would not use the Aluminum rail as it will not hold up to walking on. Later RJD


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

split jaw has walk on track


http://www.railclamp.com/displayCat...vId=128458


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By post oak and otter lake on 26 Jan 2010 10:52 AM 


The Chief Financial Officer of the Post Oak & Otter Lake Railroad was receptive to an idea I mention this past weekend. I said that I was thinking about laying some track on the living room floor. She had been thinking the same thing and thought it was a great idea.
The area is about 18' X 25' and at least half that will be across traffic areas. I checked the Split Jaw web site for their walk on track. Since I didn't get any of the federal stimulus money for railroads I don't think I will be able to go that route[/b]. Anyone with suggestions on how to have walk on track?
Also I was wondering about Switchcrafter's Aluminum Code 332 rail since it is a lot cheaper than Aristocraft brass. I don't think it would stand up as well to traffic and the indoor layout would be track powered.


Roger
Post Oak & Otter Lake RR
Caddo Mills TX


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

sorry greg only have time to skim sometimes ......


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No problem Scott! It was kind of embedded, I typically read the post twice because the same thing happens to me. 

I like the split jaw product, but it's pricey. I'm going to order some in dual track in stainless, but only about 4-6 feet of it. 

Maybe you could take a cue from them and take a panel and route out space for the track and bevel the sides, sort of like constructing a modern grade crossing, but using particle board or composite instead of rubber. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

not that it would work inside but I have cast track into stepstones before with a strip for flange clearance 


a thin board under the track to attach the upper boards too and one down the center and sloped either side like you said is a good idea at least worth looking at


----------



## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

Roger

Every Christmas I usuallly set up a largish G-scale layout inside. I merge together old Bachmann steel track with LGB brass Code 332. My track traverses from the dining room to the foyer to the living room. It sometimes loops around the front Christmas tree and if I get really ambitious it moves into the kitchen and loops a tree in that room. Obviously my track crosses many walking paths in the house. Our solution is to step over the track, especially the Bachmann steel track. I walk on the LGB Code 332 with not a second thought. We do not have any children nor pets so this may make the floor-level layout easier to manage in our case.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Why not cut some 2 x 2's diagonally and mount them with the long face as the incline on either side of your track, you'll quickly learn to step over! Soon you won't even need to look.... 

Another thought, I regularly walk on my ballasted SS track outdoors, If you back filled the ties with something solid, you could walk on yours with out too much distortion, especially barefooted. As long as you are just pressing down, striking at an angle is the most damaging blow. 

If you agree to the set up, why not agree to step over it? 

Most sliding glass door frames are aluminium and people walk on those all the time, just not with full body weight, they do ok. 

I think if you agree to try to step over it, the ties are solid and you leave the hobnailed boots at the door, you'll be ok. 

John


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

In the asylum, I just put track on the carpet and just stepped over it. Occasionally on it. A bare heel can pop the ties off the rail just as neat as you please. Then you have to disassemble the track to get them back on.


----------



## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have hardwood flooring, you're all set. Very carefully lay out your track and mark it out on the floor. Then set your circular saw to the depth of the flooring and cut a track width notch in the floor. Lay your track in the groove, shim as necessary so the top of the rail matches the floor surface.. Use the removed pieces of flooring to make strips that will sit on top of the ties and fill the gao between the floor and the outside edge of rail. Cut wider pieces to go between the rails, leaving clearance for the wheel flanges. 

End result is a set of parallel groves in the floor you cak walk on with no ill effects, yet run trains around also.


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By barnmichael on 13 Feb 2010 02:34 PM 
If you have hardwood flooring, you're all set. Very carefully lay out your track and mark it out on the floor. Then set your circular saw to the depth of the flooring and cut a track width notch in the floor. Lay your track in the groove, shim as necessary so the top of the rail matches the floor surface.. Use the removed pieces of flooring to make strips that will sit on top of the ties and fill the gao between the floor and the outside edge of rail. Cut wider pieces to go between the rails, leaving clearance for the wheel flanges. 

End result is a set of parallel groves in the floor you cak walk on with no ill effects, yet run trains around also. 




Why not just cut two parallel grooves into the floor and spike the rail right to the wood with the railhead at the floor line?


----------



## Trainwreckfilms (Aug 19, 2009)

Why not just walk on it? i do it all the time. my track holds up on just about every part of my railroad.


----------

