# Anyone else wonder about the Aristo Insider recommendations?



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Got mine.

There's several things I hope newbies don't think are the last word in advice.

The lead article is "tips"


To wit:

"I have suggested using show style tables that can be covered with tarps and then covered with soil over it. " 
I read this and re-read it... it sounds like a temporary setup, but the article describes a permanent layout that you invite people to on a regular basis. I would caution anyone putting soil on a tarp to make sure you have some kind of drainage and protection from mold, rot, or mildew. It would seem to me that soil laying on an impervious tarp is not a good idea. Maybe this information from the original author has been misrepresented for a permanent layout.



"Battery power lets you run reverse loops and is simpler in general wiring."
I'd certainly agree that it's simpler, since there should be no wires!







, but you can have reverse loops on DC and DCC too, and it's especially easy on DCC.



However, you will need to remember to charge your batteries daily and keep a second set always on charge to change at a depleted set.
I completely agree and think this is wise advise.


"A good roadbed is essential to keep your track level, but can be accomplished in many ways. My choice is to use paver bricks carefully laid over a bed of gravel;"
I personally think this is poor advice, I've seen many layouts where the track is on paver bricks and rolls like a roller coaster. Why not put the bricks on the ground and a layer of ballast on top?



"Switches should be lathered in rubber cement to keep water and grit from entering pivot points and gearing inside the switch machine."
This is the statement that caused me to start this thread. If a newcomer puts rubber cement on the pivot points or all over the switch machine, things will get worse not better. The things the Aristo switches need is coating of the wiring UNDERNEATH, and lubrication of the pivot points. This is really poor advice, and rubber cement is nuts, use silicon caulking compound.


The article goes on to recommend having fun by consisting locos with locos also at the end and or the middle of the train. I agree, that is fun.


The next article talks about improved wheels for the Aristo locos and shows the Consolidation. They indicate that the next run of Consolidation will have a smaller flange, and will also have replacement wheels available. 


"The next run of the Consolidation will have a new wheel with a smaller flange for improved operation on code 250 track, while working as well with code 332 track. We will bring in these newer wheels for replacements when the production of the Consolidation is ready. 

THANK YOU ARISTO FOR LISTENING TO YOUR CUSTOMERS... although, next time it would be nice if the president of the company (and the kool aid squad) would not call Paul Burch and me names because we brought this to their attention.


No apology needed guys, nor expected... all we want is results, and now they are publicly promised. 


Regards, Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Ya know, I did not even read it, I sent it to my file of them.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I read it because I wanted to see if they are "changing".... I noticed the references to check things out on Facebook... don't get me wrong, I'm delighted to see that they will fix the wheels on the Consolidation, and I assume the rest of the steamers.

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

For any switches outside, i like martys aproch which is manual throws. 
As for coating pivot points with any thing other than grease seems wrong.


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

After I read about the tables covered with tarps and soil I didn't take the rest of the insider all the seriously. I certainly would never recommend something like that to a new comer to the hobby. For a temporary set up it would be fine, but for a permanent setup? I never got as far as the rubber cement on the turnouts before I quit reading.

Bob


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep I kind of scratch my head after reading the article. Not good. As far as the turnouts I personally use silicone cement on the under side of the switches to coat all the bare wiring. I also remove the cover over on the bottom side of the frog and coat the wires and screws there also. I also coat the screws that hold the switch points as over time these come loose and now the point is no longer attached to the throw rod. Coating with a small amount of silicone prevent this. 

Laying of the track work as mentioned is a very poor choice and bad advice for the newbie. Later RJD


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## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

I'm a newbie, and very interested in the things that are being done to turnouts to keep them working. I just bought my first one, a manual Piko. Does the silicone cement procedure apply to all turnouts or is it a peculiarity of Aristo ones? Along the lines of track maintenance, I just bought some used brass track, and it's very tarnished. Should I use a Bright Boy as I would with HO, or is there a better way to get the rails nice and shiny? 
Regarding laying of track, for non-raised parts, is the common consensus to use pavers imbedded in the ground with ballast over the top? 
I will say, it's sure a lot more work than I ever anticipated to get the roadbed done! I suddenly have a lot more respect for those who have trains running outside.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Regarding laying of track, for non-raised parts, is the common consensus to use pavers imbedded in the ground with ballast over the top? 
While I'm not sure what the "gravel" is that the author of the _Insider_ article refers to (pea gravel is a very poor choice, a well-tamped paver base would be much better), I'm not a fan of using pavers for roadbed anyway. The author touches on it when he mentions having to reset things every Spring if you're in colder climates. You've got a long string of individual blocks that can move relative to one another, creating unevenness. Even in warm climates, if the track is attached to the pavers, expansion and contraction will cause the pavers to move. Personally, I don't know a whole lot of people at all who use pavers as a continuous base for their track. I know some folks who use a single paver every 5 or so feet as an anchor, but that's about it. Probably the most common foundation is just a trench filled with well-tamped crusher fines. Otherwise, folks use some method of continuous (key word) support such as PVC pipe or TREX or similar synthetic stringer material. (Google "Logan Ladder") Some pour concrete as a foundation. A bit more work, but it's solid... 

Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

On the turnouts, I would recommend sealing any exposed metal connections for power on the underside of any switch. 

Don't worry about the brass being shiny except on top, and when you connect joiners/clamps. 

No the general consensus is emphatically NOT using pavers, and that's one of the reasons I posted a review of this article from a manufacturer. 

Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
I did take a lot of heat over those wheels. Now it looks like they are doing quite a bit of wheel redesign. I won't need new wheels for my two locomotives since I had them machined but I have a close friend with a 2-8-0 who will be getting the new wheels when available. I'm looking forward to working with him on swapping the wheels and Airwire conversion. I just wish I could show people how nice mine run now, even very slow switching through turnouts doesn't bother them. No binding at all. They are very nice locomotives.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I have one and will wait for the new wheels, since I am a "slave" to track power, ha ha. 

It's a painful way to get progress, but after about 10 years with the same initial response from the manufacturer, I'm used to it. I've heard from more than one source that Aristo blames me for poor sales of the Consolidation. Oh well, it's a shame about the amount of ruckus it caused, I did not enjoy the "heat" either, but vernier calipers don't lie. 

Wheels aside, probably the nicest steam loco ever made by Aristo. 

Regards, Greg


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