# Best Glue For a Coal Load



## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

I am making coal loads using crushed pieces of real coal laid on top of rubber mats near the top of the hopper car.

What glue should I use? These loads will be used outside and I often leave trains out in the weather during the summer. So it should be water resistant.

Tom P


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

My guess would be a 2 part epoxy, there will still be some flex. 
Goop might also work, if you can stand the fumes... 
John


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

I would use Acrylic gloss medium so the coal will have the shiny look. Use it just like you would indoors, sculpt your foam, cover with coal, then soak with the acrylic medium. One the acrylic drys it will be permanent and flexible at the same time. before you glue the coal to the foam line the cars with clear plastic wrap that way you can lift the coal load out of the car if you want to at any time and the foam or coal will not be glued to the car. 

Andre


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

I used diluted Sobo craft glue for the coal load on my Accucraft K-27. It's basically a white glue, but seems more durable than the typical Elmers stuff. I put the coal in place first, wet it down with a spray of isopropyl alcohol, then sprayed on a 50/50 mix of Sobo glue and water with a drop of dish soap mixed in, until the coal was completely saturated. I had screened the coal twice to eliminate first the pieces that were too large, then the pieces that were too small. The large pieces were crushed and screened again, and the small pieces (most of which was a fine powder) went into a jar. After the glue had dried overnight, I dumped the jar of powder and small pieces over the top of the coal load, then shook it off. This gave it back its proper dirty/dusty coal texture, getting rid of the sheen from the glue. I don't leave it outside for extended periods, but I have run it in the rain, not to mention the steam oil/condensate fallout from the stack (live steamer), and I've only had maybe half a dozen pieces of coal come loose in the four years or so since I put it together.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If it's got to be weatherproof, build your form from foam, then spread some black roof adhesive over it like you're icing a cake. Dump the coal onto that as judiciously as possible, then gently press down to "seat" the coal into the adhesive. Let it dry and shake off the loose stuff. 










My coal ranges in size from dust to lumps around a scale 8" - 10" or so, because the EBT used coal straight out of the mines for their equipment. If the coal in your hopper has been cleaned and graded, then it should be a uniform size, which could be anything from pea-sized to 6" - 8" lumps depending on the size of coal ordered by the customer. 

Later, 

K


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Leaving trains outside is problematical at best. I would use Tite Bond III as a base. It dries yellow but the coal completely covers it and it's darn near waterproof! Unfortunately, what I then use is a slightly diluted white glue which dries clear but is definitely _not _water resistant let alone waterproof! You might be able to use a bonding agent that adheres to both coal and plastic but I wouldn't use super glue. Maybe Gorilla Glue?


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

I sort of agree with Kevin. I use black silicone sealant. It has a bit more shine if it shows in gaps. Silicone is pretty darn water repellant. When cured it is not sticky but allows for movement and flexibility such as expansion from the hot sunshine.


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