# I LOVE that LGB Track Cleaning Loco



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I don't know if they are still in production (by Marklin) or not and if out of production the normal caution about parts and service would apply but...

The LGB 20670 Track Cleaning Diesel Loco remains one of my very favorite locomotives.










I was reminded of this again this morning as I tackled the job of cleaning the brass track and turnouts on the storage yard for my outside layout. This yard with 12 sidings has not been used (other than to park rolling stock) for well over a year and is in the lowest part of my crawl space so it gets the most airborne dirt and dust.

Normally I use F1-ABBA's that are MUed together (32 track contacts) to load/unload the sidings but today those locos were not handy which made the job more difficult.

Once the sidings were clear the situation changed. The TCL just ran in, cleaned the sidings and turnouts VERY well and the job was over without having to touch the track or turnouts for any reason. It took about 3 runs each to clean the sidings and about 5 runs to clean the turnouts. 

Now that the job is done everything is bright and shiny - and everything runs very smoothly over the yard. This outside yard is 100% Aristo stainless steel track with LGB nickel plated turnouts so the TCL cannot be used there but should not be needed there anyway.

Jerry


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

They are on the "Evil Bay" from time to time under LGB! Regal


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I love mine too, Jerry, and yes they are still in production. Since they are current production you can get replacement parts directly from Marklin/LGB or Train-Li. 

http://www.lgb-bahn.de/de/produkte/...tiven.html

The wear pads you can still get directly from the factory, or just the pads alone from Train-Li or Massoth. 

Keith


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Regal and keith,

Thanks for the updated information.

Jerry


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Cougar Rock Rail on 06 Apr 2010 09:50 AM 
I love mine too, Jerry, and yes they are still in production. Since they are current production you can get replacement parts directly from Marklin/LGB or Train-Li. 

http://www.lgb-bahn.de/de/produkte/...tiven.html

The wear pads you can still get directly from the factory, or just the pads alone from Train-Li or Massoth. 

Keith 

Yes, you can get the abrasive pads, but the plastic side retainers no longer come with the pads. So don't let the pad get so far down such that the retainers get abraded.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM 
Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested


Most but not everyone who has the TCL are very happy with them. The zebra-striping is somewhat common (I finally gave up trying to "fix" it). 

I suspect a lot has to do with how they are used. In my case I mainly use them for sidings (which they are great for). I have a LOT of sidings. Also I do not clean a lot of outside brass track with the TCL but normally use LGB 50040 cleaning blocks for most of my brass track cleaning. It is true that the TCL abrasive disks are expensive. One nice thing is that they go over things like track magnets and rerailing tracks without the cleaning pads being deflected by the surfaces that are above track height.

In my case I reserve the TCL's for sidings and hard to reach locations. The fact that I can drive them to a spot on the track where I have a problem and just clean that place really helps. 

I might add that I run one TCL with another TCL without a decoder. The one without the decoder is used everywhere I do not run MTS/DCC. The advantage of the MTS/DCC decoder equipped one is that I can leave the cleaning wheels turned off until the TCL is where I need to clean the track. The disadvantage of the MTS/DCC TCL is that it does not work under track power (without MTS).

I also bought some very used track from a commercial operation and it was obvious that they had a TCL that had stopped and ground a dip in the track at a few places (fortunately not on a turnout).

As always there are two sides to every story.

Jerry


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I find that the zebra striping is due to the front end 'hopping', which is caused by either uneven track or the pads being slightly out of round when the outer disc is put in place to hold it. It also helps that I use DCC, because the cleaning motor has the full track power (and hence full RPM) and I can slow the driving motor to a crawl if necessary. It's not perfect, but it's still a very usefull tool. Since it only has to be used occasionally I find that I only go through a couple of cleaning pads a year. 

Keith


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I had one before I gave up on brass track. Waht Keith said about DCC and full power/speed helping. Once the pads get out of round, you should "true" them and will stop the zebra striping for a while. 

Kevin Yutz has mine now. 

Regards, Greg


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I thought I saw them in the NEW LGB catalog? I need to get one for the church layout but they cost too much


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## Loco Lee (Feb 17, 2010)

I have 3 of them, and love all of them. I have the Old yellow one. The newer yellow one, and the new red one. I use them on DCC, and they work great. To keep from getting Zebra stripes, I take them off the track when not in use. I've found that if you leave them on the track, they seem to get a flat spot where they were sitting for a while. So mine only see the track when I use them. 

Loco Lee


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Train-Li has both the pads only and the complete LGB kit with plastic wheel holder and axle screws. 

The plastic hub is important as it raises the cleaning wheel at the plastic frogs to eliminate frog wear, therefore should be replaced. 

I would suggest the pads only be done twice and then the complete LGB replacement package be done on the third change. 

Also, the pads tend to wear on one side, so I reverse them and trim them with a very sharp knife and this helps eliminate the stripping.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Loco Lee on 06 Apr 2010 09:07 PM 
I have 3 of them, and love all of them. I have the Old yellow one. The newer yellow one, and the new red one. I use them on DCC, and they work great. To keep from getting Zebra stripes, I take them off the track when not in use. I've found that if you leave them on the track, they seem to get a flat spot where they were sitting for a while. So mine only see the track when I use them. 

Loco Lee 

I had never occurred to me but what you said about getting a flat spot from sitting on the tracks makes a LOT of sense. I have tried trimming my wheels but never could get the hang of it. Eventually I gave up trying to true them. It seems that by the time I make a few passes the zebra stripes are eliminated.

I cannot see most of the track on my layout and I've quit worrying about zebra stripes. Now I only run the TCL when I have a problem and then I only run it on the trouble spots. Then again my situation is not typical in that the largest portion of my layouts are in the crawl space and garage rather than outside. 

When it comes to the outside caboose layout I normally clean the track by hand but I will probably start using the G Clean which uses a LGB 50040 Track Cleaning Block. I weigh it down with lead bullets and then use an Aristo F-1 ABBA (with traction tires) to push the now heavy G Clean car around the layout.











Often it takes a choice of solutions to address a varitey of challenges.

Jerry


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry:

I've had one of the LGB track cleaning engines for many years. I use it only when the track hasn't been used for an extended period of time. It will be the first train out when we return home after 2 and a half months in Arizona. It does a real nice job and after a couple of passes the "ZEBRA STRIPES" even out. 

For regular track cleaning I use a green Scotch bright pad on the business end of a dry wall sander. Once around the track and I'm good to go. This only works if you can get to all your track. 

Chuck N


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By chuck n on 07 Apr 2010 09:40 AM 
Jerry:

For regular track cleaning I use a green Scotch bright pad on the business end of a dry wall sander. Once around the track and I'm good to go. This only works if you can get to all your track. 

Chuck N 



Hi Chuck,

You have found my secret weapon. I retired after being a 3M Factory Sales Rep for 29 years. Among the products I sold were 3M's industrial Scotch-Brite cleaning pads. I found the 7448 pads worked very nicely (I usually wrap them around a small 2" x 4"). Since I've been retired 10 years and they are an industrial product I would not know where one would find them so I normally do not mention them.

Conformable web and finest silicon carbide hand pad available. Excellent for final finishing and light cleaning. May be used by hand, with a hand block, or on an in-line sander. Abrasive mineral: Ultra fine grade silicon carbide. Color: Light Gray.

Stock Number: [/b]61500123247UPC: [/b]0-48011-04028-8

http://www.shop3m.com/61500123247.html?WT.z_xsell=1&WT.z_refSKU=61500123239

Before I replaced the brass track and turnouts on my main outside layout with stainless steel track and nickel plated turnouts I did 99% of the track cleaning with the 3M 7448 pads. I'm not familiar with the 3M Scotch-Brite consumer line or how they compare with the industrial items I have used.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks like consumer line is aluminum oxide in most cases, instead of the silicon carbide. 

Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry:

I get my pads at hardware stores. Every store that I have been to when I need one has had them. I've been using them for over 25 years. These pads clamp nicely to a drywall pole sander.


The ones that I use on a drywall sander are 4 3/8" x 11" and the 3M part number on the package is 7413NA. I have tried the maroon pads and I thought that they scratched the track.

I do not recommend any sand paper, no matter how fine the grit, whether it is a carbide, aluminum oxide, garnet, emery, or sand. From my experience it scratched the track. Scratched track leads to more problems. That is also one reason, among several, why I use a plastic shovel to remove snow from my track when the plow extras can't do the job.


Chuck N


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 07 Apr 2010 11:03 AM 
Looks like consumer line is aluminum oxide in most cases, instead of the silicon carbide. 

Regards, Greg 

Hi Greg,

Would you happen to know how aluminum oxide might vary in performance compared with silicon carbide?

This happened to be a product made by another 3M division and our division sold it more as a customer service so I don't know much about how the Scotch-Brite products offered by different 3M divisions would compare. I know that the pads we sold were made for heavy industrial applications.

Regards,

Jerry


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry:

In geology we have something called the Mohs hardness scale. This is used as a part of classical mineral description and identification. Talc is the softest at 1 and diamond is hardest at 10. Aluminum oxide is manufactured, but it also occurs naturally as the mineral corundum (ruby and sapphire are naturally occurring forms of corundum). Corundum has a hardness of 9. Silicon carbide is harder than corundum and softer than diamond.


Chuck


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By chuck n on 07 Apr 2010 05:40 PM 
Jerry:

I get my pads at hardware stores. Every store that I have been to when I need one has had them. I've been using them for over 25 years. These pads clamp nicely to a drywall pole sander.


The ones that I use on a drywall sander are 4 3/8" x 11" and the 3M part number on the package is 7413NA. I have tried the maroon pads and I thought that they scratched the track.

I do not recommend any sand paper, no matter how fine the grit, whether it is a carbide, aluminum oxide, garnet, emery, or sand. From my experience it scratched the track. Scratched track leads to more problems. That is also one reason, among several, why I use a plastic shovel to remove snow from my track when the plow extras can't do the job.


Chuck N 





Hi Chuck,

I don't know about other 3M Scotch-Brite product lines but in the industrial line the 7447 maroon pads are more abrasive than the 7448 and I do not use the maroon pads on the track. 
In the industrial line the level of abrasion starts at 7445 and works up to 7440 as per the following:

7445 lowest abrasion
7448 the pads I use
6448
7447 the maroon pads
6444
7446
7440 highest abrasion


http://www.shop3m.com/61500123247.h...1500123239
Conformable web and finest silicon carbide hand pad available. Excellent for final finishing and light cleaning. May be used by hand, with a hand block, or on an in-line sander. Abrasive mineral: Ultra fine grade silicon carbide. Color: Light Gray.
Stock Number: 61500123247
UPC: 0-48011-04028-8


http://www.shop3m.com/61500123239.h...1500123247
Most universally used in a variety of applications. Excellent starting point to clean, finish, grain, denib and defuzz. May be used by hand, with a hand pad block, or on an in-line sander. Abrasive mineral: Very Fine grade aluminum oxide. Color: Maroon
Stock Number: 61500123239
UPC: 0-48011-04029-5 

I did not find the 7413NA on the 3M web site but it may be repackaged and sold under a different number by a different division. 
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-hand-pads-8xsskbx771.html


The pads I use are 6" x 9" and the size of the pads you use seem a lot more suitable for use with a drywall sander. I may have to find and try some. I'm not promoting any particular pads - just saying what I use which happens to be what was available to me.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Not to throw a monkey wrench in the works, but you CAN scratch brass rail with certain scotchbrite pads. Silicon carbide is silicon carbide, whether glued to paper, or a plastic "web". 

My advice is just like the famous "solvents" thread.... start with the mildest stuff, and if it does not work for you, go "up" a step in "aggressiveness". 

I have stainless steel track, so I use the scotchbrite to basically scrape off dead ants, tree sap, etc, not removing oxidation as is necessary for brass track. 

I've used all types from gray to green to maroon, to the really coarse stuff that is sold to clean your barbecue. 

Fine stuff works well, but clogs easily, and tears when going through switches (catches on guard rails and points and frog). 

The coarser maroon stuff has worked best for me. 

Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

For those of you who are new to the hobby, this is what I am talking about when mentioning a dry wall pole sander with a Scotch Bright pad. If your track is low or on the ground this is an easy way to clean track without getting down and dirty.

I have been using the pole sander for over 25 years. It was brought to my attention at a Denver Garden Railway Society meeting by someone who brought it is as a show and tell. It is easy, inexpensive, and works.


For brass I like the green Scotch Bright, but if you are using stainless steel track like Greg the maroon probably works better.

This is the Green Scotch Bright package I get at the hardware store.










It is held on the sanding pad with screw clamps on each end of the sander block.










As you can see there is a universal joint connecting the sanding block with the pole. It is threaded so a broom stick can be screwed into it. 


The pad is slightly wider than the block. Occasionally, I will trim off a little of the overlap of the pad along the side. I use this scrap material to clean wheels on engines when needed.




















As you can see you just need to walk along the track gently polishing the track as you go.











Chuck


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

i love my cleaning loco- 
analog with doecoder version i believe 

heres some stuff ive learned 
first i ran a bridgeworks 10 amp and it used to spike-0-24 volts and then bcak down to say.5v-that can blow things on the loco-like lights 

secondly never leave unwatched-if they stall-like on a grade-you can have a slight divot in the track-i have had wet track and track with sap-on the grade the grinders have more traction than the loco and i have seen a 'mambo effect' take take place as the two (loco and grniders) alternatively gain purchase on the track 

third and best -it is easy to unscrew the retaining block which holds the floating track cleaning wheel assembly-it drops down and out-if you reverse the motor leads ( these are the simple silver plugs that fit onto the pin) -the grinding wheels will pull the engine forward as opposed to moving oppostie to the driving wheels of the loco -run the engine slowly and the grinding is almost as effective as the 'correct direction' 

this helps on greasy , wet tracks or grades-but most significantly-it seems to reduce chatter and the grinders tracks more evenly through switches-try it and tellus your experience- i have been running mine this way for over a year and i think i prefer it


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## Geoff G. (Apr 11, 2010)

Posted By toddalin on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM 
Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested

What do you wont for it?

I have one but would love to get a second one.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Geoff G. on 14 Apr 2010 05:20 PM 
Posted By toddalin on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM 
Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested

What do you wont for it?

I have one but would love to get a second one.




It's already pending sale.


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## Geoff G. (Apr 11, 2010)

Posted By toddalin on 14 Apr 2010 05:21 PM 
Posted By Geoff G. on 14 Apr 2010 05:20 PM 
Posted By toddalin on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM 
Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested

What do you wont for it?

I have one but would love to get a second one.




It's already pending sale. 
If it don't work out let me know.


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## adelmo (Jan 2, 2008)

Geoff

I have an extra LGB yellow track cleaning engine for $495.


Brand new: tested only forward/reverse, track cleaning wheels never used. 


Alan


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Geoff G. on 14 Apr 2010 05:26 PM 
Posted By toddalin on 14 Apr 2010 05:21 PM 
Posted By Geoff G. on 14 Apr 2010 05:20 PM 
Posted By toddalin on 06 Apr 2010 11:09 AM 
Not so crazy about mine. Does a so-so job of zebra-striping the track and goes though expensive pads fast. This is after LGB serviced it.

I'd let it go (with extra disks) if someone was interested

What do you wont for it?

I have one but would love to get a second one.




It's already pending sale. 
If it don't work out let me know.




Will do. Would be $300 plus shipping.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Todd, do you happen to have a decoder in it?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 16 Apr 2010 07:16 AM 
Todd, do you happen to have a decoder in it? 

Not that I am aware of. How could I tell?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

describe all stickers on bottom of the loco?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 16 Apr 2010 10:59 AM 
describe all stickers on bottom of the loco? 


Just the 20670, 0-24 volt dc tag and an OK inspection sticker, so probably not.

Todd


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Does anyone know if these have 1 motor or 2? Good deal BTW Todd, let us know if it sells. I am hoping the Church will get one and save lots of work


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 16 Apr 2010 11:33 AM 
Does anyone know if these have 1 motor or 2? Good deal BTW Todd, let us know if it sells. I am hoping the Church will get one and save lots of work 

Motor for the wheels and separate motor for the cleaning pads.

Pads only work when running in forward direction so you can back out and "hit it again."

Top lights flash accordingly.


Wheel motor speed is adjustable so the slower you run, the more turns the abrasive wheels have on any given spot of track.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

cool, I was just wondering if the 55021 decoder would work in one?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mine came with a decoder in it, and I bought it a number of years ago.. 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I think there have been at least 4 production versions of the LGB 20670 Track Cleaning Loco.

I do not think that my first one (purchased used) had a decoder interface much less a decoder. Eventually I sold that one when I bought a new one with a decoder interface.

The 2nd and 3rd ones (I believe) had a decoder interface but at the time LGB was only selling the one with the decoder installed in Germany. I believe they were cataloging the one with the decoder as a 20670.1.

I may be mistaken but I believe that when I added a decoder to one of mine that it lost its ability to run on analog track power so I now keep one with a decoder and one without.

Since then I believe LGB started shipping all of them with a decoder installed. I can post an instruction manual if desired.

I believe the latest version is in Red. I do not know of any internal differences.

These represent what I recall and I suspect a lot can be told by the black circle with white dots on the bottom if it is decoder ready (but not installed) and the "D" mark if there is a decoder installed. Without any markings it may be an earlier model without the decoder interface.

One thing about LGB that I would have preferred to have been done differently is that LGB would issue updated versions of a product without any difference in the product number.

This information may or may not be totally accurate but I have old catalogs that should be able to confirm any of it.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

i bought mine from Germany, analog and DCC operation. The decoder was tough to program, and very basic. 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Regarding LGB locos (and other LGB products) with or without decoders and decoder interfaces, The following are the markings and what they mean. Usually there will be a sticker with one of these symbols on the bottom of the loco and often on the box the loco was shipped in.

With locos having this decal a decoder can be added but will require using the wires from the decoder;












With locos having this decal a LGB 55026 can be just plugged into the interface:













These locos have the decoder factory installed:














These locos DO NOT have an interface for a LGB decoder but instead have a more generic decoder interface and require the LGB 55027 type of decoder rather than the 55026.












Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 16 Apr 2010 01:44 PM 
cool, I was just wondering if the 55021 decoder would work in one? I suspect that the 55021 would work as a substitute for the newer 55026 but I am not qualified to say for sure. You may wish to contact Klaus at Massoth USA. Klaus can probably give you the information you need along with current Massoth replacements for LGB decoders.

http://www.massoth.de/index.en.html 
This is the owner's manual for the TCL with a factory installed decoder:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/je.../20670.pdf


Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

TCL types: 
First one had the 3 wire motor block, no DCC/MTS built in. 

Next version had a 4 wire interface on the motor block. Decoder sticker. Once upgraded to MTS will not work on Analog as I understand from other sources. 

Then came the MTS/MZS version and was sold in yellow first, and now in red. These work in analog or digital. 

This means that LGB had at least 3 different control boards for this loco, and different internal wiring.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Dan Pierce on 23 Apr 2010 05:19 AM 
TCL types: 
First one had the 3 wire motor block, no DCC/MTS built in. 

Next version had a 4 wire interface on the motor block. Decoder sticker. Once upgraded to MTS will not work on Analog as I understand from other sources. 

Then came the MTS/MZS version and was sold in yellow first, and now in red. These work in analog or digital. 

This means that LGB had at least 3 different control boards for this loco, and different internal wiring. 

Hi Dan,

I think you have nailed it.

My first one was as you described it and the ones I now have are the 2nd type.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

This is one of my favorite photos - it shows that the LGB Track Cleaning Loco is prototypical!





















Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Yesterday was interesting because I had come to the conclusion that some of my older LGB Stainz and US styled Stainz locos and their motorized tenders were not running quite right. I had not run them (or cleaned their tracks) in over a year. I decided it was time to run them and to clean their tracks.

As I did it I realized this would be virtually impossible for me if I did not have the LGB Track Cleaning Loco. 

This is because I built this layout with only 9" clearance between it and the deck (yard) above. The reason was because my wife told me I could not have one more inch of the garage so instead of building wide, I built below and the space was limited by the height of the pool table underneath everything (that's another story).










































The layout to the left above is under the layout to the right above. It has since been expanded to the left under the four sidings above it.

Surprisingly the TCL even cleans the 10+% ramp to the upper yard (it cleans going down and backs up without cleaning). It would be totally impossible for me to clean that ramp without moving almost everything on the upper deck so I could crawl to the ramp.

On reflection even the crawl space layout would have been a real hassle if I did not have the TCL because I would have to get on my hands and knees to crawl around (there is only 4' clearance between the layout and the rafters) cleaning the tracks every time I had a problem with track conductivity. Instead I just drive the the TCL over to the dead spot, pass over it a few times to clean it, and drive the TCL back to its siding.

Jerry


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Jerry McColgan on 28 Apr 2010 07:47 AM 

As I did it I realized this would be virtually impossible for me if I did not have the LGB Track Cleaning Loco. 

This is because I built this layout with only 9" clearance between it and the deck (yard) above. The reason was because my wife told me I could not have one more inch of the garage so instead of building wide, I built below and the space was limited by the height of the pool table underneath everything (that's another story).

On reflection even the crawl space layout would have been a real hassle if I did not have the TCL because I would have to get on my hands and knees to crawl around (there is only 4' clearance between the layout and the rafters) cleaning the tracks every time I had a problem with track conductivity. Instead I just drive the the TCL over to the dead spot, pass over it a few times to clean it, and drive the TCL back to its siding.

Jerry




So what of the many track cleaning cars offered on the market? No reason they wouldn't work.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 28 Apr 2010 10:53 AM


So what of the many track cleaning cars offered on the market? No reason they wouldn't work. 


Actually I have tried several of the track cleaning cars both current and discontinued. I still have and use some of them in other applications such as light cleaning on the layouts without track magnets or after I have removed the track magnets. 

They tend to have several flaws (for what I want to do) that keep them from working in my applications:

1. Most of them require the track head to be above everything else (pad type cleaners). When they run into something like a LGB Track Magnet they get at least partially lifted above the rails and are unable to clean that spot.

2. They do not have the selective cleaning that enables me to actually use the lights and sounds of the LGB Track Cleaning Loco to identify those bits of track that need cleaning.

3. They are nowhere near as fast as the TCL for cleaning really dirty track.

4. They seldom if ever do a good job on turnouts where parts of the turnout rails may not be as high as other rail heads in the turnout.

5. If they depend on trailing a loco to function the leading loco will stall before the cleaning pad reaches the dirty track. 

6. Because they do not have as good a cleaning function as the TCL they will frequently allow the trailing loco to stall even if put ahead of the loco(s).

7. If they stall out or derail inside a 9 inch height layout (such as my lower garage layout) it may take hours and the removal of everything else to make it possible to retrieve it. If they derail and short the rails making it impossible to drive the other trains out it could take DAYS to retrieve it.

8. Running the TCL can be fun. Running the others tends to be more like maintenance work.

9. The TCL is much more precise. I could run it right up to nickel plated track and stop without damage to the nickel plated track.

10. There are 150+ electric LGB turnouts on my layouts. There is nothing on the market now or in the past that in my opinion comes anywhere close to the TCL when it comes to keeping them functioning. I can throw any one of 150 switches and whatever is on that siding will instantly come to life with no problems.

The TCL is (in my opinion) simply in a class by itself.

I understand and agree that the TCL is not something everyone needs or wants. There are other track cleaners that work very well for other applications.

Jerry


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Jerry McColgan on 28 Apr 2010 12:38 PM 


Posted By toddalin on 28 Apr 2010 10:53 AM


So what of the many track cleaning cars offered on the market? No reason they wouldn't work. 


Actually I have tried several of the track cleaning cars both current and discontinued. I still have and use some of them in other applications such as light cleaning on the layouts without track magnets or after I have removed the track magnets. 


I understand and agree that the TCL is not something everyone needs or wants. There are other track cleaners that work very well for other applications.

Jerry






Just doesn't seem to me that with only 9" of headroom on an indoor layout that the track should get that dirty that a couple passes of a good track cleaner car shouldn't take care of it. My railroad is outdoors. I have a 5'-long tunnel and the section within is always the cleanest with locos easily passing through even before cleaning.

I made my own track cleaner car using two left-over freight trucks and an old drywall sander that outperforms what I've seen on the market (including the LGB TCL). Granted, you can't reliably push it with an engine, but even after not running for 6 months through the late fall/winter/early spring, and the track getting watered twice a day, I can pull it through the entire layout with a GP-9 with only occasional coaxing the first few times around. I think that this is actually easier on the rails and doesn't leave zebra stripes.

Granted, I only have 21 turn-outs and they usually get a hand job, as necessary, to go with their initial scraping. But remember that not all of the railtop has to be clean..., only that portion that actually contacts the wheels/sliders.

I also found the abrasive wheels to be costly..., certainly moreso than necessary and I would end up going though a few sets a year. It seemed to go through a set just to clean the railroad each time I used it, so I gave mine very little run time before selling it to a MLS forum member. (And now I understand that you can't even get the plastic wheel "shells.")

To each his own.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 28 Apr 2010 12:54 PM 
To each his own.


Yep. You have what works for you and I have what works for me. We are both very happy with what we are using.

That is all that is important.

Jerry


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

If anyone is interested, I've got an original yellow TCL available, together with an extra set of abrasive disks [new]. Since converting to 99% live steam, I've not had need for the TCL for several years. The last time I used it, it ran normally, so it should now. Send a PM if you are interested.

Regards,

Will


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I had an LGB TCL. It did take a lot of care to keep the wheels round so they did not bounce and zebra striped. I learned how expensive the replacement wheels were in a hurry. Later I learned how to "true" the wheels when they got out of round, that helped the bouncing, and less zebra striping. 

It used an abnormally high voltage to move, which helped me learn about the higher voltages and amperages needed in G scale. 

I used it on my first "test loop" of brass track, which was LGB, Aristo, and USAT. 

I have to agree with Jerry on how precise you can make it, and also how it is unaffected by track magnets and other things in between the rails. 

Most track cleaners span the rails so they bump up over magnets, frogs, and other stuff. My findings are that the turnouts are the hardest to clean with other track cleaners, so I have to agree from experience here with Jerry again. 

Now, if you don't have track magnets, and your turnouts are all "nice", which means all the rails and the frog are at the same level. 

There are also a few track cleaners that are only "over" the rails, but these are indeed the exception. 

Luckily I'm over all that, and only use a swiffer once a a while to take any organic goo off the rails. 

(which, by the way, works great) 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Like most people I hate to admit it when I get caught exaggerating the benefits of a product. In this case I caught myself when I realized I needed to hand clean the LGB turnouts that I had previously cleaned with the LGB Track Cleaning Loco.

I had said that the Aristo-Craft E-8's were not making good contact with my inside crawl space layout but it turned out to have been more a result of my failure to properly clean the LGB brass track. Even though I had run a LGB Track Cleaning Loco over the LGB turnouts several times and they looked good to me, today I got on my hands and knees (not easy) and crawled to and cleaned those turnouts with a LGB 50040 Track Cleaning Block. As I did this I realized that my old eyes had not been showing me (from 10 feet away) that there remained a lot of imperfections (tarnish, corrosion etc.) that I had not removed with the TCL. 
Once I re-cleaned the turnouts by hand the Aristo E-8's no longer appear to have a conductivity issue with the turnouts.

In fairness to the Track Cleaning Loco I bought these LGB turnouts used 15 years ago and it has been years since I've cleaned them properly. They sit on a plywood platform less than a foot above the dirt in my unheated/uncooled crawl space within a few feet or less of the outside brick wall of our house so they are subjected to dirt, dampness, extreme temperature changes (for Arkansas) etc.

That said, I still love my LGB Track Cleaning Locos. The amount of effort it took me to physically get down and over to these turnouts to clean them by hand is a perfect example of why I depend so much on the TCL. 

These are some old photos that show the turnouts (there are 12 of them). They are hard to get to as they are below the platform level. Normally the TCL does a good job of cleaning them but with that many to clean I just decided to do it manually as the several passes I had made with the TCL did not do a good enough job.



































Jerry


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