# Bachmann 4-6-0 OverHaul



## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Got myself a Bachmann Pioneer Big Hauler 4-6-0 with ATSF tender. The unit has had very little running ,With operating head light smoke and speed synchronized sound.There are NO chips or cracks
picked it up for $70 it does not look like much and is a cheap train but I will soon be doing a complete OverHaul on this So I am looking at my options. 

The set sells for $250 to $300 brand new
















Obviously I will repaint everything and repair anything that is broken but would love to hear what you all think would make this Loco a prize piece.


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want a really well running locomotive, get a Barry's Big Trains conversion. For the money, you will have a loco that is virtually indestructable as far as the drive is concerned. It is a little pricy but well worth it in my opinion. Check out the link for Barry on the regular Forum page.


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

These 10 wheelers are alot of fun. They are easy to bash into just about anything you can imagine. I took one and did a repaint, added LOTS of detail parts and made my Halloween train. I'm also in the process of making a freelance logging engine by starting with a 10 wheeler. 
However, when the time comes that the drive goes out of the Halloween train, it will be getting a Barry's drive train. 

Have fun with it!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep! Definitely go with a BBT upgrade if you want the locomotive to be a 1st class runner! The next step would be to add a digital sound system. The Phoenix P5 would be a good choice (or if you can get a Sierra that would be good too!) By using Trackside Details, Ozark Miniatures, Accucraft, Hartford or any of a plethora of aftermarket detailing parts, you can then complete your engine to whatever level of detail you choose. Then, of course, there is r/c with batteries or DCC or DC track power.....decisions, decisions....


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

If it's a later generation big hauler, with the most recent drive--see George Schreyer's page: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html --then in my opinion the BBT drive is not needed. Yes, it's better, but it's close to 4 times what he paid for the loco! The most recent version of the big hauler is really good. It pulls very well and runs smoothly and has good power pickup


I turned one of those into a 1:29 0-6-0 switcher: 










Tim Brian is probably the king of big hauler bashes--search over at large scale central, he did a thread with a bunch of things. Vic Smith made a neat 0-6-0 in 1:24

Ozark miniatures and trackside details carry a bunch of appropriate upgrade parts if you just want to add detail. Since you have that great Pacific, you could try downsizing it to 1:29.

I'd want to repaint it. The gloss on it looks cheesy to me. Just spraying it with matte acrylic would improve it

Check out this page: http://4largescale.com/index.htm and especially Jack Thompson and Dean Whipple

This is a useful thread over at LSC: http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=8944


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

All your input is great guys. Thank you. I am scanning the internet for pictures of bashed 10 wheelers to get ideas of what details I can add and ways to make it les toy looking. I am thinking of a black or gray color scheme. I may even try to find a nice sound card for this locomotive but have not decided yet. 

If any of you have bashed something similar to this can you show some pictures?


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## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Have a look at; 
http://4largescale.com/ 
Both Jack Thompson and Wayne Spence have done fantastic jobs on upscaling and detailing ten-wheelers, and Bob Baxter has turned 4 of them into great looking Moguls! 
Chris


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Here's the post of my Halloween train from a few months ago. 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/postid/58601/view/topic/Default.aspx 

It's an older version Big Hauler, I repainted the entire engine, added lots of battery operated lighting and details. The cab has black lights inside, and lots of details throughout the train. Of course, it's all been renumbered and re-lettered. With all the work I've put into this one, if the drive goes out, it will get a BBT drive. 
The great thing with this hobby is you get a chance to just let your imagination go wild. 

Just have fun and enjoy


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## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, how did I miss that Halloween train!!??!!??! Great job on that one, I especially like the witch car with the spiderweb fencing! 
Chris


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Thanks Chris, 
I love kitbashing, and since very good friends of ours always have open houses around Halloween, I decided to make a train especially for the season. Every car has lights on it. The car with the witch started it's life as a passenger coach. That one has a fire that glows, black lights, street lights on each end. Trying to hide the batteries was a challenge. The caboose not only has lights, but a lightning feature as well. The heavies car is my "warewolf transport", which not only has blacklights to shine through the slats in the stock car, but has lightning and haunted house sounds as well. 

So many people lose sight of why they got into this hobby in the first place, and that was to have fun. All of my trains may not come out to an accurate scale, but I'm happy with them, and that's what is important. I've already been invited to run on Halloween night at a local garden RR during "trick or treating" this coming year, and I've actually started building more rolling stock for this years train. I'm still undecided if I want to haul it to York to enter it into the model contest at the large scale show, we'll see.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Got the Big Hauler today and began the destruction phase.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

That's not the newer drive, I think. Maybe you want to go with BBT.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I plan on rebuilding the drive and pick ups myself.I am not sure what the BBT includes and what is involve or even the cost but most improvements can be done without spending hundreds of dollars. 

-As it stands I will replace most of the plastic parts with brass or steal 


-Repairing the sound card or replacing it

-securing the motor and gearing better, possible installing a bigger 24vdc motor 


-replacing the trucks on the coal car

-adding some weight to the front 4 wheels and reconfiguring the swing arm.


-Adding some tanks to the coal car along with making the rear light operational

-Will have to improve the drive wheels appearance some how.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it! It's good to get the tender wheels to pickup power to the motor. While you have it apart, you might consider making a DCC socket for future expansion. Paiul Norton has an article on making one


http://ovgrs.editme.com/board 

For what it's worth, Ozark miniatures and trackside details make a bunch of detail parts that work well with the Big hauler


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Here is a closer look at the gear


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

If you can get the old system fixed your a lot better off and a few hundred dollars to the good as that's what the BBT system will set ya back. I have also done mods to mine and they run good now with original drives. Later RJD


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

You identify the drive like you sex kittens, turn it over and look between the rear drivers. If you see a hump to clear a gear and a rubber plug, it's the newer drive.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

I was unaware that they still made the ATSF version in the newer drive mechanism. However, that looks like a recent one. It should run well. 

- gws


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The bottom of the gear area does have a small hump to clear the gear but there does not seem to be a plug. If it is not enough clearance I can modify it with no trouble.

The biggest problem I see with this set up is the track power pick up set up so I will have to do something to make it work better. Maybe adding another pick up in the tender and run it to the Loco with a connector.


I noticed as well that I am missing a break pad. Maybe I can make one. It would be nice to have a bucket of spare parts to sift though. lol

I am thinking of carving up some small chunks of brass to replace some of these plastic parts.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

I love em.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I gave most of the body parts a coat of flat black paint today. I am now trying to figure out how to get that gray weathered look. 

I modified the motor and gear mount to get a tighter tolerance. By doing this I was able to eliminate any motor shifting and it keeps the gears running in one spot. 


I am also looking for breaks and suspension springs to add more detail. I did manage to get a couple tank cylinders to add to the tender. I am disappointed that I am having so much trouble locating parts. I sure wish we had a G scale club here in Nova Scotia Canada.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I finished fixing the motor and gearing today. I took me some time ti figure out what to do to stop the excessive movement of the motor shaft. I dug out some larger bolts and re drilled and taped the motor mount. this made it stronger and now the motor does not move.

Next I needed to reduce the amount of gear movement from side to side. This was done easily by adding a washer that I filed down to the right thickness.











I had time to paint a coat of flat black to the major body parts. when it dried and I had a close look at it I felt inspired and could see things coming together.











Next I need to make or find some parts like this missing break. I also would like to get some leaf springs


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

No matter what else, simply painting it black has improved it's looks tremendously!


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## Kevin Miller (Jan 5, 2008)

While you have it apart it might be a good idea to drill and pin the drive gear onto the axle. They have been known to slip on the axle. I used a 1/16th roll pin.

If you want the leaf springs just for cosmetic reasons they are easy to make with styrene strips. David Fletcher tells how to make them in the Mason Bogie Masterclass series.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Unfortunately I do not own a laser cutting machine so making what he does in the masterclass section is not realistic for myself. He does a wonderful job and all but all I have is a few simple cutting tools and a knife set to work with. I do have a dremal tool as well which I should be able to do something with. I am sure that there is some sort of valves and lever kits out there to buy as accessories.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Very good-looking & interesting project.

Tell me, re the spacer on the drive wheel axle, did that move the wheelset 'offsides' one way or the other enough to cause any problem? Also, those brass 'bushings'--do they move, or are they fixed to the axle? Or what?

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Originally the wheel offset was off 3/16 of an inch causing a lot of movement side to side that was way to sloppy. Putting the washer in even up the spacing and now there is only a very small amount of movement. The brass bushings are free to move and not fixed to the axle. there is a 1/16 inch play in the larger gear sided to side that allows the motor to reduce the friction.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Parts are made from some scrap pieces of plastic and I shaped them with a Dremal tool. It took me a few hours but it should blend in nicely.










I tried making some hand valves but they are way too small. I guess I will have to find some where to buy them. I have tried a few stores online but had no luck. I would like to get about a dozen of them to add to the boiler and the airs system.


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Nice work, hand valves can be made el cheapo by using dress making snap fasteners, available in loads of sizes, small pin through the centre and paint red or brass and there you go superb handwheels.Give it a go.
Regards,
Bunny


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That's looking good. Have you tried working with styrene? You can buy it at hobby stores in those revolving rack from Evergreen or Plastruct. It's very easy to work with for this kind of thing


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

That is a great idea David thanks. I would never of thought of that. I am going to add some more steam lines using copper wire as well.

I am now researching how to weather the body. I painted everything Flat black and want to gray it a bit. I am not sure how I am going to do this yet. I did start painting the wood planks a nice brown color and started some detail painting of the boiler. Going to have to go out this week and invest in some nicer paint brushes.


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## Kevin Miller (Jan 5, 2008)

The springs and most of the other parts in the Mason class are made of styrene and not laser cut. Only the cab and pilot were offered as a laser cut kit for those that wanted an easier way to build them. 

I highly recommend reading the Master Class article in the archives. They are full of great tips on building and modifying engines using styrene. 

Also George Schreyer's large scale site is another good place to get tips on updating the Big Hauler. The sound tip really works.

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Nova Scotia 

Thanks for posting the disassembly photos. I have a Bachmann that I want to overhaul later this year. Your photos are providing me with the courage to tear it open. 

Thanks 
Robert in Ontario


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## railgeek (Jan 15, 2008)

*Hi,*
*Instead of wasting your money on a Barry Drive $300.00 and more, you can buy an Annie for around $125.00 - $145.00, metal drive rods, reliable drive mechanism and go from there. For the price of a Barry, you can bye complete LGB 2-6-0s etc.*


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

After some dry fit assembly today I realized that I do not have the clearance behind the drive wheels to add the newly made leaf spring suspension. I guess I will just save them for future projects. 

On the bright side the break fits perfect. I am looking around at work for some brass this week and should get some soon to make the drive rods, 

I am not going to get the BBT system but rather make the modifications myself. My objective is to do this bash on the cheap and hand make the parts I need as much as possible


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Coming along nicely! 

Next it needs some Walas influence.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

How do the wheels come off the axle to install the washer? I haven't taken anything like that apart yet, but as I previousl mentioned, have a candidate and I'm eager to learn.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Easy: 

1. Take off the rods. 

2. Each wheel has a plastic insert. Pry it out but sneaking a tiny screwdriver under one of the spoke. There are metal spokes behind the plastic ones and you have to get the blade between them. 

3. You'll see the screw in the middle of the wheel. There's a plastic piece in there. A #4 flat washer will fit into a pocket molded into the plastic part. 

4. I think you don't want the front wheels tight to the axel, but you want a little play forward and backward.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

when you add the washer make sure that it is not a tight fit as it will load down the motor. I ended up having to file down my washer a bit so that once it was put back together there was a little play from side to side. I did not tighten the front or middle wheels as I wanted them to have enough movent to stay on the track through the turns.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I finished up the base coat of paint and some detail painting the last few days. I do plan on adding more valve in the boiler and rust it up a bit.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice progress and thanks for the detail on wheel disassembly.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice work, and an interesting project.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Anyone have any detailed pictures of there boilers with valves and piping add. I am trying to get an idea of what to add to make it more detailed.


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

you might check out this thread....for pix of the orginal loco....








[url]http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/23/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/73149/Default.aspx#73167[/b][/url]


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Each wheel has a plastic insert. Pry it out but sneaking a tiny screwdriver under one of the spoke


Torby, 
I found your advice in an older post when I was doing my loco. However, I found that the plastic insert has significant overlap around the crank pin, so if you attack the wheel from the back, you can tap the insert out with that screwdriver by pushing on the plastic from behind. 

There's a pic on my thread about quartering the drivers:
*Quartering Problem*


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## jnic (Jan 2, 2008)

Chapter VI of of Fletch's 2001 Master Class is devoted to plumbing. Not all of it applies to every loco but it's a great reference. By all means, look at the works of others and then, as always, build what suits you. Don't skimp. Nothing sets off a beautifully bashed loco like detailed, anatomically correct plumbing.



john


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

That sounds easier! 

My insert sometimes falls out and slams the loco to a stop.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I finished my modification on the front wheels











Made some hand rails


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe you'll find some help from here. 
[url]http://archive.mylargescale.com/articles/masterclass/mc1/mc1-06/mc1-06.asp[/b][/url]


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

RE the CHAPTER on the master builder's class RE PIPING: how do you access that information? I've learned more in fifteen minutes of reading that piece than in two years studying all other sources I could find.

I'd like to know how to find that again.

Thank you very much for this particular post. I feel like I owe you $5.









Les


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

In looking at your photos, I see that you have the start of a fine model. The only criticism is that the Johnson Bar is on the wrong side of the cab. That is used by the engineer to reverse the loco. It should be on the right side of the cab. I know that the Chinese put it on the wrong side on some of the Big Haulers. Just a point of info, not really a criticism of your work, which is excellent.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

I guess it's too late to wish for a pic of the disassembled wheel? Or, maybe I just need to pull one apart and see if I can figure it out. 

Les


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## jnic (Jan 2, 2008)

The root to the archived forum is here.

The root to the archived Master Class articles is here.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

No problem Les I have many more pictures than I post online. I blew this one up for you I hope it helps. Anything else just let me know I can send you more.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am not too worried if this project it perfect. I am just going my own way with it and just want to have fun making it look nice. Unlike many of you. I know more about ships than I do about trains so making it prototypical is not my goal. I just want it to look believable... Many of you do such wonderful bashing projects I listen to everything you all say and pick and choose what works for me.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By jnic on 01/29/2009 2:15 PM
The root to the archived forum is here.

The root to the archived Master Class articles is here.






Thanks for the lit up 'here's. But, um, well ... supposing I was on page 1 of the site. How then would I go 'here' & 'here' from there?

I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer with this computer stuff, sorry.









Les


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Les on 01/29/2009 6:32 PM
Posted By jnic on 01/29/2009 2:15 PM
The root to the archived forum is here.

The root to the archived Master Class articles is here.






Thanks for the lit up 'here's. But, um, well ... supposing I was on page 1 of the site. How then would I go 'here' & 'here' from there?

I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer with this computer stuff, sorry.









Les



At the top of every page is a blue banner just below the myLargescale.com logo. 
The 2nd word in that banner is "Commmunity". 
Hover your mouse over it and wait for a dropdown menu to appear.
Move your mouse down to the Forum Archives entry and click on it. NOT on the sub menu that will appear next to that word!
Now you are looking at the MLS forum from last year and can search it for all the discussions that occured prior to last January's switch to the new format.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Um, what I meant (and should have written) was, for a pic of a disassembled _wheel._ My bust. I'm just curious about how the plastic comes off the metal, and where.

Keep up the good work, that engine looks fine.

Les


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Les on 01/29/2009 6:32 PM
Thanks for the lit up 'here's. But, um, well ... supposing I was on page 1 of the site. How then would I go 'here' & 'here' from there?

Les

Don't know if you'll find this of any use, but a while ago I made Table of Contents for the MasterClass 2001 articles in a PDF file format. If you right-click the link below and then use the 'Save Target As...' option to download a copy of the file to your local system. When you open the file you'll find a Table of Contents of the whole MasterClass 2001 project and there are URL links that if you click each one it will take you directly to the respective web page that contains that topic. I just found it easier to navigate using this than using what was available in the actual article.

*MasterClass 2001 Table of Contents*
*Navigation Document*


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

In response to some requests for my cab PDFs for the T-19 I have now placed them on our site http://www.gtrains.co.uk The zip file can be downloaded from the T-19 page, which is accessed from "The Annie T-19" at the "Articles" menus links. On the main page there is a link to the "howto" key and you will find it there. 

If you do decide to print them off, make sure your Acrobat print option is set to no scaling. Quite often the default is "print to paper size". If you do that then the plans may not be to scale. As drawn they are 1:1 and just as a check there is a scale on the drawing. There you go. Credit goes to Fletch for the methodology, the staggerd-layer joines on the corners do make for a robust construction. 

I personaly I print off the plans and tape them to the styrene, then I use a pin-prick through the paper to mark the positions of all the corners, remove the drawing and scribe the styrene with an X-Acto before cutting. 

Marking out is everything, so take your time over it and you should end up with something like this. (Its the C-21 cab, but same principle) 










Later 

Regards 

Rod


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Les 

To get the plastic cover off the wheels I had to take a small flat tip screwdriver and slowly ply it apart. If you go to it from the back or inside of the wheel and push it out it works great. I did have a couple that were glued in there pretty good and was very hard to get out but some patients and persistence prevailed.


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

A question that sort of fits in this thread 

All of you guys that have removed the wheels from the axles, how do you get them back and properly aligned, is there some sort of key?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

how do you get them back and properly aligned, is there some sort of key


Hagen, 

My "quartering" thread covers most of that issue, with pics: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/60671/Default.aspx#60671 

The ten-wheeler has two different wheel types - the flanged and blind drivers are not the same. They coma apart by levering off the crank pins and then removing the plastic spoked wheel covers on the flanged wheels, as described above. Blind drivers just pull apart. 

Blind drivers have a squared axle that pushes into a plastic sleeve. You can fit them 90 degrees wrong if you try! They are not designed to carry weight, or pick up power. The brass bearings are not the same size as the flanged axles. 










Flanged drivers fit on flats on the ends of the axle, which are parallel to each other. Which means there are 2 kinds, with a '1' or a '2' cast on the front. The difference is the angle of the shoulders in the casting that hold the nylon insert. The brass bearing rides on a shoulder (not on the axle) and collects the power. 










Take a look at my quartering problems - I still haven't resolved how they didn't go back together at 90 degrees without the modification I made. Maybe "Navytech" can experiment?


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Pete,

Speaking as a machinist--I've never removed a wheel from a B'mann--is it possible that the right-hand and left-hand side wheels don't work if they're installed on the 'other' side of the engine from where they started out?

Just a thought.

As for the post asking about reinstalling wheels, I took that to mean getting them 'sqaure' on the axle, so the don't wobble going down the track. I am in the process of making a jig to make sure that can be made to happen.

I am also curious just how far out-of-round an average wheel is, so I'm making another jig to hold a wheel/axle set and spin it while checking the runout with a go/no-go gauge. Someday I'll actually accomplish something. Perhaps.

I shouldn't bury this question, but following the above, is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales? If so, where can I find it?

Les

Freezing in St. L.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I shouldn't bury this question, but following the above, is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales? If so, where can I find it? 




It's much argues over.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I made some progress in the painting today and managed to dry assemble some pieces to get a few pictures for you all to see where I am at. I assemble it now and then to get a good look at it then take it apart to make changes.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Lookin' really good. Things I'm seeing are making more sense since I read that 'master builders' article.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Okay, works for me. I'll measure a B'mann and use it as my standard. How far off could they be?

Les


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Could be a long story.....


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 01/30/2009 11:48 AM


I shouldn't bury this question, but following the above, is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales? If so, where can I find it? 




It's much argues over.

Indeed and every scale has their own standards, even though most of them can run on the same rail.
Flangeheight, thread width and back to bak measurements being all over the place.
Then there's coarse, 'semi scale' and fine scale flanges within those again


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice. Maybe I should paint the pipes on mine. 

Does your coal door open? I was astounded to find mine does.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Been following right along with the progress... Very nicely done project. Fun is the bottom line.... And this looks like it's been fun...


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

No the tender door does not open but I plan on painting it so it looks like it does. I was disappointed to find that the sound card does not work. I am not sure that I want to spent $200 on a new card. From what I understand Sierra makes a good one for a 10 wheeler but I have never heard it.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Hagen on 01/30/2009 3:06 PM
Posted By Torby on 01/30/2009 11:48 AM


I shouldn't bury this question, but following the above, is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales? If so, where can I find it? 




It's much argues over.

Indeed and every scale has their own standards, even though most of them can run on the same rail.
Flangeheight, thread width and back to bak measurements being all over the place.
Then there's coarse, 'semi scale' and fine scale flanges within those again " src="http://www.mylargescale.com/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/smile.gif" align="absMiddle" border="0" />










Now, _why_ didn't I just know that??







What facet of G gauge RRing isn't beset with exceptions to the 'rules of thumb' which are, of course, divided into sub-categories according to the number of thumbs in any given group's possession.









I don't wanna argue at all. I'm a happy ol' guy, I don't _give_ an F scale rat's posterior. However, I will balk at a metric one. ****'s bells and little green apples, I'm gonna run mine on a couple of strips of wood with copper plates on top! I just thought, "I'll ask and see what's recommended or being used. If no recommended standard, I'll measure a Bachmann Mauler wheel and make the rest have the same included angle." I have a lathe, I am (or was) a machinist; this is no dark art to me, changing wheel profiles. Or making the effin' wheel from a piece of brass--w/o spokes, of course.







Or even from a piece of old iron gas pipe, with a wooden oak inner spoke and hub assy, like the early prototypes. No magic there, just a lot of fiddly work. (I'm into avoiding work of any kind).









I am no Champion of Order. Au contraire, I like freelancing. There's an Aussie who is running his trains on pieces of aluminum angle. Go, Aussie! Clever. Admirable. Not exactly prototypical, but after some pointed questioning, I discover that these high-end K27's fall a tad short in that department, too. One just has to know what to look for. Like cylinder cocks. Or the lack thereof. Not to denigrate a K27. 

G gauge seems to have certain commonalities with a stampede: most are following the a-- er, tail just ahead, a few eccentrics are running the other way, and some are trotting through the dust, crying for order. 

In HO, for instance, _everything_ is defined. (Except for what isn't, but is manufactured and sold anyway).

In N scale, you can't tell whether it's right or not, no one can see it that well, in any case. (Over the age of 50, let me add).

Z makes me want to reach for the bug spray.

Now, S is a super-nice scale for the younger set--those with eyesight and dexterity unimpaired. NG&SLG has many fine examples.

O scale, esp. O narrow gauge, is just dandy. I understand OTC parts are becoming available more readily. Shares the same drawback with S, so far as workability.

But G scaleSSSsss are the best. All of 'em. The only serious drawback is the need for a 90 x 120' steel barn to run them in. A willing suspension of belief is handy, too. On the downside, noobs hunting for the happy medium--well, it always has been a sink-or-swim world.









Joshua, your Standard Gauge has never been equalled. Everything was decided at the factory, and decided well. Ya done good, Mr. Lionel.

Flange angle for wheels? Who cares? Put 'er on the track and run it.

Les

NOTE: All the above is offered tongue-in-cheek.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I don't know, seems like the setup you have is plausible, what with coal accessible from under the bottom board. You're inspiring me, guy. Not to mention thru your work, someone pointed me at the world of archives. Whoa!

Les


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By NavyTech on 01/30/2009 4:55 PM
No the tender door does not open but I plan on painting it so it looks like it does. I was disappointed to find that the sound card does not work. I am not sure that I want to spent $200 on a new card. From what I understand Sierra makes a good one for a 10 wheeler but I have never heard it.





Navy Tech, the QSi card can be had for $130, it's got excellent sound. Sierra is out of the large scale business.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

One thing I've been wondering about the Big Hauler: Why did they make the backhead extend so far towards the rear of the cab? It looks like there isn't even room for the engineer and fireman.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Actually, the boiler extending into the cab so far is prototypical of some steam locos. Made the distance the fireman had to move coal a lot shorter... but, of course, stuck him out into the weather a bit more and likewise, cooked the engineer.


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

Posted By Les on 01/30/2009 6:36 PM
Posted By Hagen on 01/30/2009 3:06 PM
Posted By Torby on 01/30/2009 11:48 AM


I shouldn't bury this question, but following the above, is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales? If so, where can I find it? 




It's much argues over.

Indeed and every scale has their own standards, even though most of them can run on the same rail.
Flangeheight, thread width and back to bak measurements being all over the place.
Then there's coarse, 'semi scale' and fine scale flanges within those again







" src="http://www.mylargescale.com/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/smile.gif" align="absMiddle" border="0" />










Now, _why_ didn't I just know that??







What facet of G gauge RRing isn't beset with exceptions to the 'rules of thumb' which are, of course, divided into sub-categories according to the number of thumbs in any given group's possession.










I can give you this link to the G1MRA standards also has some turning and machining tips, and it's also a good source of cast wheels that needs a some machining before use, LGB flanges as close to 3mm tall, but otherwise their shape is close to the same.


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 01/30/2009 7:43 PM
Posted By NavyTech on 01/30/2009 4:55 PM
No the tender door does not open but I plan on painting it so it looks like it does. I was disappointed to find that the sound card does not work. I am not sure that I want to spent $200 on a new card. From what I understand Sierra makes a good one for a 10 wheeler but I have never heard it.





Navy Tech, the QSi card can be had for $130, it's got excellent sound. Sierra is out of the large scale business. 

Or you might find something here, I have one of his soundunits, and they are excellent value


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Les, you didn't mention wheel standards for the new T scale!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bunny


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By david bunn on 01/31/2009 4:04 AM
Les, you didn't mention wheel standards for the new T scale!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bunny








T scale? I know there's a TT scale out there. I've never heard of T scale as applied to LS or G scale. But of course, if you start with F, then G ... well, it's believable that they've worked up to 'T'--and not missed a letter between.









Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Ray Dunakin on 01/30/2009 9:12 PM
One thing I've been wondering about the Big Hauler: Why did they make the backhead extend so far towards the rear of the cab? It looks like there isn't even room for the engineer and fireman. 










I've been wondering that myself. I plan on 'correcting' that when I start bashing any of mine. To me, it doesn't look natural. Whatever 'natural' is in this collection of scales called 'G Gauge'.









The other answer sounds plausible, though.

Les


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

Posted By Ray Dunakin on 01/30/2009 9:12 PM
One thing I've been wondering about the Big Hauler: Why did they make the backhead extend so far towards the rear of the cab? It looks like there isn't even room for the engineer and fireman. 





Ray, that is how the real thing is built!

The Big Hauler/Annie was based on Tweetsie #12, only in the wrong Scale 1:22.5 instead of 1:20.3x ..Bummer! 


There are a few big "wrongs" like the Pilot and Johnson Bar, but for the most part...it's close to dead on!


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

Number 12's Stablemate, #190, The Yukon Queen has much more room to move around in!


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

One more for inspiration:


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I managed to get the air lines and valves done. I also added some rust color but now I need to wash it out a bit to get rid of the brush marks. It would have looked nicer if I had a air brush kit.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By david bunn on 01/31/2009 4:04 AM
Les, you didn't mention wheel standards for the new T scale!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bunny

You will need those magnifiers for T scale - ratio 1:450: gauge 3mm for standard gauge

see www.banhof-europa.co.uk for more details


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cabs where the boiler extended all the way to the back of the cab are most commonly called "deckless" cabs. They're very common on narrow gauge locos, though almost unheard of on standard gauge ones. They appear throughout the development of the steam engine, so their use was based more on the design of the firebox and locomotive than anything else. 

Later, 

K


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

Believe me, if you stopped right now, you'd have nothing to be embarrassed about. I don't know much about steam locomotives, but I know one helluva bunch about rusty machinery!

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By East Broad Top on 01/31/2009 10:27 AM
Cabs where the boiler extended all the way to the back of the cab are most commonly called "deckless" cabs. They're very common on narrow gauge locos, though almost unheard of on standard gauge ones. They appear throughout the development of the steam engine, so their use was based more on the design of the firebox and locomotive than anything else. 

Later, 

K






K,

Could you please amplify a bit? Does your post indicate that the crew stood on the 'plate' (the part between the tender and engine where the fireman sometimes moved to get coal, in the pre-screw days?) Or whatever that platform is called. I've see only one modeller include it.

As I posted elsewhere in this thread (which has been hugely informative to me BTW) I don't know much about steam locomotives, but a place back that far, on a cold, rainy day, could be miserable, due to the wind action behind the loco, seems to me. Sorta like the 'vacuum effect' you get when tailgating a semi on a motorcycle. (Truckers hate that).

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By peter bunce on 01/31/2009 9:59 AM
Posted By david bunn on 01/31/2009 4:04 AM
Les, you didn't mention wheel standards for the new T scale!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bunny

You will need those magnifiers for T scale - ratio 1:450: gauge 3mm for standard gauge

see http://www.banhof-europa.co.uk/ for more details











Peter,

You're _killin' _me, man_. _3 mm std ga? Three millimeters? Wide? ARRRGHUUGH!!























Les


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, what a ton of areas this thread covers. 

is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales


Les, if you go back in the archives, you'll find an argument about 'fine' versus 'coarse' scale wheels. TOC insists, from personal experience (and most of us concur) that the G1MRA 'coarse' standards are the best for real-life garden railways. Vance's website has the original sheet http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/steam/castwheel.htm and the link above to Mark Woods site will give you chapter and verse. 
http://www.markwoodwheels.co.uk/standardschoice.htm 

Navytech - I have at least one spare sound card from a ten-wheeler tender. They aren't great - George Schreyer's website has instructions for improving them. 
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html#sound 

Re: tender. I suggest removing the center double row of overscale rivets from the sides of the tender. It improves the look a lot. 

Re: T scale. Wasn't that the NMRA proposal for 7/8n2? 1:13.3 scale? ["T" for Thirteen.]


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I wanted to add some rust but I think I am getting carried away.. I will just keep playing with it till I am happy with it. 

DISASTER TODAY

My Tender fell to the floor today breaking the trucks and support mounts.....Boo Hoo....all that work to see it shatter in a dozen pieces.

I have some pieces gluing back together but I think the trucks are wrote off.

After that disaster I left the shop and refuse to go back down there today. Maybe my gut will feel better tomorrow.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Condolences!


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By NavyTech on 01/31/2009 11:51 AM
I wanted to add some rust but I think I am getting carried away.. I will just keep playing with it till I am happy with it. 

DISASTER TODAY

My Tender fell to the floor today breaking the trucks and support mounts.....Boo Hoo....all that work to see it shatter in a dozen pieces.

I have some pieces gluing back together but I think the trucks are wrote off.

After that disaster I left the shop and refuse to go back down there today. Maybe my gut will feel better tomorrow. 









Navy.

That makes me sick to hear. Is it a B'mann? If it is, I will give you a set from one of mine. All you have to do is pay the freight between St. L (Zip 63031) and wherever you are.

You deserved better luck.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 01/31/2009 11:47 AM
Wow, what a ton of areas this thread covers. 

is there an accepted flange angle & depth for G scales


Les, if you go back in the archives, you'll find an argument about 'fine' versus 'coarse' scale wheels. TOC insists, from personal experience (and most of us concur) that the G1MRA 'coarse' standards are the best for real-life garden railways. Vance's website has the original sheet http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/steam/castwheel.htm and the link above to Mark Woods site will give you chapter and verse. 
http://www.markwoodwheels.co.uk/standardschoice.htm 

Navytech - I have at least one spare sound card from a ten-wheeler tender. They aren't great - George Schreyer's website has instructions for improving them. 
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html#sound 

Re: tender. I suggest removing the center double row of overscale rivets from the sides of the tender. It improves the look a lot. 

Re: T scale. Wasn't that the NMRA proposal for 7/8n2? 1:13.3 scale? ["T" for Thirteen.] 











Pete,

Going back in the archives is one thing I (think) I learned how to do on this thread. Honest, I don't mouse around on stuff to see what'll happen. At the least, I get confused. Some kind, understanding soul posted go 'here' & 'here' to get into all the stuff. But I don't know how to do it very well, and I admit, I'm rather easily confused (Why deny it?) on computer stuff. And other stuff. And I remember working on analog nav computers. The advent of the LED. (I saw some of the original pixes taken, where it was discovered by accident. I worked in advanced R&D all my life. Except when I was hog ranching.) 

About the flange discussion: I don't willingly engage in arguments. I did once, here, over an issue I felt very strongly about, ("Weasels in the Workplace") on TOC's side, but that'll likely be the last time, because I'm old enough, finally, that I just don't care. Let 'em bite and devour one another w/o my assistance. All I wanted was a 'given' included angle on the wheels. I don't need it for anything other than photographic purposes--I intend to show my work here even as NavyTech has done--and I don't want to look stupider than I really am.









Your post has convinced me to subscribe to G1MRA. I understand it has machinist articles in it, anyway.

I don't know much about other scales than 1:20; I've settled on that like I got my wife: for better or worse.

Thanks for the links.

Les


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Cale and Kevin, thanks for the pics and info! Sure looks like the crew had a tight fit in that cab.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Thanks a lot for the offer Les. I am sure that I can make something good come from all this. I will take some pictures tomorrow and see what can be done with what is left. Most of the damage I did manage to glue back but the trucks do not look good. Maybe it is Gods way of telling me to learn how to make trucks.....LOL 

I know from experience that when something like that happens and I get upset that it is best to stop and walk away and cool off before even looking at it again.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Here is the worst of all the damage. The rest is fixing up nicely.


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

Posted By Ray Dunakin on 01/31/2009 2:08 PM
Cale and Kevin, thanks for the pics and info! Sure looks like the crew had a tight fit in that cab. 



Tight is a pretty good description!


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

Call Bachmann Ind on Monday and ask them if they have a replacement truck you can buy. It shouldn't be too expensive. There number is 800-356-3910. Just a suggestion. The loco is looking good.


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

these are the ones
But it could be cheaper to just buy a twopack of Bachmann flats Bachmann flats kit, or has been suggested, someone on here might have some.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Thanks for all your concerns everyone but I think everything will work out. My Father is sending me a package with a gondola, and caboose for my 7 year old to kit bash and he is putting in a set of trucks for me. I should be interesting to see what my daughter will do to a caboose.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Here are some pictures of the Big Hauler all assembled. I plan on making a few tool boxes and accessories for it today. I made an oil can to place on the boiler and a shovel for the tender. I did make one tool box out of wood and it is painted bun not sure if I will use it yet.




















I am looking for other ideas of stuff that would be found on this Loco during operation.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That looks dramatically better--well done!


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Les,
I'm as fumble fingered as you claim to be with computers so I picked up a cheap address book at the dollar store. When I get info on how to do something I may do more than once Ijot it down under the appropriate letter and keep this by the computer.

Navytech,
Great build! Sorry I haven't chimed in before as I've been following this build since you started.Glad you've come up with a solution for the broken truck,but was wondering about your lack of an airbrush for your paint.I have about three cheap Badger brushes if you have an air source(they do make air in a can).Contact me through Email if you will pay postage I'll gladly box one up for you.

Dave


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I priced an air brush kit and it was way too much money for me to buy at this point. The air brush itself is about $50 and then can air runs $12 a can. I looked at compressors but at $200 ouch. I had opted to spend $250 on track and pay $3 for a brush set. 

I do plan on buying more tools and an air brush kit in the future. My basic goal is to get track down in June and have the kids enjoy it.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

Okay, that looks reparable. If you want the trucks though, post me and I'll dig 'em out.

I too have found that when things go south, it's best to just get up and walk away for awhile.

Les


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

That turned out quite nice! A drastic improvement over the garish paint of the original. I wouldn't worry about a lack of an airbrush, at least not for weathering. In the small scales, yeah. In this scale, not so much. I've found dry-brushing, washes, and powders to be equally effective, without the fuss. The only time I break out my airbrush for weathering is when I want an overall light dusting effect. I don't use it for streaks or of the other "common" weathering uses. If you've got a bottle of acrylic paints, a stiff paintbrush, soft paintbrush, cup of water, and a paper towel, you've got most of the tools you'll ever need for weathering. 

Airbrush aficionados will undoubtedly chime in extolling the virtues of the tool, but mine collects far more dust than it's ever simulated on my models. 

Later, 

K


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## jnic (Jan 2, 2008)

Bachmann trucks are readily available on ebay.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

What a change!


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I have a question. The motor is what I believe to be a 12v motor. It is small and does not have a great deal of power. I originally thought that all G scale motors were 24v as the power supply is 24v max. I later discovered that most use a 12v motor. Does anyone know why it its 12v? I ask because I am thinking of replacing the motor with a 24v one and also replacing the gears with metal ones. Doing this will require some major redesigning and a great deal of work therefore I need to be sure that I will have a stronger and more powerfull Locomotive before embarking such a feet.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

People who know more than me will likely chime in on this, but there was a long and acrimonious thread over at LSC, about gearing in the Bachmann K that got into this. A more powerful motor alone is only one factor--you need to increase the weight in the drive wheels. A hugely powerful motor won't make a lick of difference, because unless the weight increases the wheels will slip at the same point. You'd need--and please, someone check me if I'm wrong--a more powerful motor AND a significant increase in weight, and it doesn't take long before the motor's torque exceeds the amount of weight you can put in the loco. So it's not simply "more powerfull motor equals more powerful puller"


George Schreyer and Greg both have some info about weight and tractive effort, and here's the thread at LCS, which has a lot of great info in it but also a lot of acrimony:

Caution: bad signal to noise ratio 


One thing I've noticed--I have two annies and two old Big Haulers, mostly inherited or bought as kit bashing fodder--is that as Bachmann upgraded the drive/powerpickup they about doubled the weight


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job. Looks like a high dollar brass loco now. Later RJD


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing I can never understand is why some people want to pull a gazzilion cars with a loco that in reality only ever hauled a few (6-7 maybe) at a time. 

Even a bog standard Annie will pull far more than the Tweetsie ever did in its time. 

Ah well......


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Rod,

'Bog standard'? Whuzzat mean? And about 'pulling a gazillion cars...' Right-on, right-on.









Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

It's not about hauling more cars. A 12v motor with 24v put on it burns the motor. If your running it at half speed your ok but anything more than that is not good. Therefore by replacing it with a 24v motor I get to use the full range of the throttle without risking anything and I also get more gradual throttle control. 

By replacing the plastic gears with metal ones I get the long life and stronger gear. This should also reduce the maintenance. The only downfall to metal gears that I can think of would be a noisier running loco. 

You are correct that I will need to add some weight to increase traction but that is not really my goal. Lets face facts if I am going to improve my Locomotive than it would be a good idea to make it last longer. 

My only real challenge is improving the track pick ups to get great conductivity at all times. Perhaps adding pick ups in the tender and running it to the loco would work.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I have an "Annie" that's close to stock and a annie I kitbashe to an 0-6-0, and with both I added tender power pickups. Makes a big difference. They just run better. One way to do it is to drill out the sideframes to hold brass bushings. Then you can solder a wire to to the bushing and viola! you have power pickup on all 8 wheels if so desired


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

Everything you intend to do to your Annie, I say "right on". Have you considered a flywheel, too?

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Low,

What if you have plastic wheels?









Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

If you have plastic wheels I suppose you could use LGB pick up pads. I think that of all the pick ups available out there LGB is the best but unfortunately it takes away from the realism. unless they can be hidden some how.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

I priced LGB pickup pads. Sheesh. And you're right, they do look rather unprototypical.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By dltrains on 02/01/2009 7:36 AM
Les,
I'm as fumble fingered as you claim to be with computers so I picked up a cheap address book at the dollar store. When I get info on how to do something I may do more than once Ijot it down under the appropriate letter and keep this by the computer.

Dave








Dave,

At the risk of derailing this thread, I went to Michael's for more craft stuff and found a narrow notebook out front in their "30 cents for anything!" bins. So I got one, (along w. three 'go fishing' toys that have tiny magnets and a windup spring and large geared driven center). I suspect the magnets and gears might come in handy. I carried this handful inside and asked, "You'll be able to tell these are 30 cents when I check out, right?" Big Ol' Babe said, "I think so." Wife and I went in and gathered our bits 'n pieces and checked out. The skinny checkout gal said, "Sir, these notebooks are $1.00" I said, "I got it out there." Pointing at the bins. She gave me one of those tired, 'yeah, right' looks. I told her to keep it. She rang it out anyway. At a buck. I walked outside and got a pink one and took it back in. Held it up, said, "There's at least two more out there. Want me to get 'em?" Big Ol' Babe said, "We'll refund the overcharge." They did.

It's your fault, Dave. Ya set me up....







(Kidding).

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

While I am at sea I have been attepting to make new drive rods. I had hoped to make them out of brass but been having trouble rounding some up so I was thinking of trying aluminum. Has anyone tried to make there own drive rods? The plastic ones I have are fine but I thought it would be a stronger way using metal?


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

I cannot see any advantage to making your own drive rods. I am a retired tool and die maker, for me that's no big deal. Likely isn't for you, either. Think about it: today's polymers are pretty darn good. There's no real load on anything but the drive rod to the other wheels. I've been following your rebuild and think it's good, particularly re replacing the drive gears. If you can score some brass and want a showy engine (I plan on it--already have the brass) then go for it. If you want to run it, just use what the Chinee and B'mann gave you.

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Maybe what I will do is make a set of drive rods but use the plastic ones and if I have any problems with them I can just swap them out. 

I am almost finished with this build, I just have some small details to work out. One big change will be the name of the Rail Road. Browns Country RR is the name of my N scale layout and now that things are soon ready to lay track I need to come up with a Name for the G scale layout. I will also try to come up with a logo and then I can get the decals made for the trains.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

attepting to make new drive rods 

I used brass tube, rectangular section, between the bosses to beef them up.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Fully assembled the train today and ran it on 10ft oval to tune out all the little bugs and she ran perfect first shot. Now that I know it runs good I just need to get a good sound card in it and do the detailed painting and decals. 

My daughter came up with a name for the rail road that sounds great. Since there are many children on our street and chances are once I get this train going in the yard most of the neighborhood will be here We are going to name it after our street. 

So our G scale layout will be called Wynn Castle RR


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Well I bit the bullet and ordered a new QSI sound card today and looking forward to getting it in.









I just need to see how big of a speaker I can fit inside and see about quality speakers? Maybe even an amplifier to make it good and loud.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I found the most amazing tiny speaker at mouser. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/637/1808.pdf I think I got the 253-2040CP08-8-RO one. Sounds great with my Small Scale Railway card with 1w amp. It's so small and cheap, if you want more power, get 4 of them and put them in series-parallel to preserve the 8ohm impedance.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I believe the QSI can pump out 5W through an 8ohm speaker. I am not sure how to choose a good speaker so I guess it will be by trial and error. I have a speaker in the tender that came with the Bachmman so I will try it first I guess. 

I really want it to be loud and clear. I also may have to run some power off the wheels in the tender. I am researching a way to do this now.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

An easy way to add power through the tender wheels is to drill out the axle holes to accept a set of Aristo brass bushings. The drilling is very easy, then you solder a wire to the edge of the bushing and you're all set. The other alternative, much more expensive, is ball bearing wheel.


Also I have had good luck with the speakers QSI sells--they are described on their website, including dmensions


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

This is the first post I've read that tells how to get track power up inside a car, other than wipers on metal wheels. 

All the B'mann Annie tenders I have are mounted on plastic wheels. So, if you connect to the hub (and the wheel turns on the hub--that's not clear) you get ---what? I'm confused a tad. I may be really off the track, but I thought he was trying to get power from track. So, how does it happen, unless the wheels are metal and I've got old, cheap junk? (It wasn't that cheap, anyway.)









My own plans for getting track power consist of wipers down to the track. Other than metal wheels, is there a better way?

Les


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, you need metal wheels. The bachmann metal wheels work well. I was assuming metal wheels, my mistake


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I do not need brass bushings from Aristo if I just make them from a brass round stock and drill a hole in it ..... look free pick ups...lol....I must try it and I will post the pictures as I go so you can follow along Les...


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I'd sure appreciate it. I learned a lot about piping from your build.

Les


[added after post]

You've got a lathe, or access to one, don't you?


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Nope I do not have a lathe but I di have a drill press and a hand drill


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

You could make them out of brass stock I'm sure--they are 6.99 for eight from wholesale trains, St Aubin has the for a dollar less. My time's worth that. I'm sure you can make them with a drill press and a hacksaw with a miter box but 6 bucks is pretty cheap. What's the brass stock cost? You could also make them out of small brass tube, save yourself the drilling, if you knew what alloy and were not worried about wear. 

The Aristo bushings are flanged, which makes it easy to solder a wire to the flange without interfering with wheel movement.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

As I promised Here is my attempt to powering up my coal tender.

I used Brass tabs you use to hold up your shelve in kitchen cabinets and drilled a hole in it. Then cut it in two pieces to make your bushings. Simply solder you wires on and press fit them in the enlarged holes in the chuck.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Okay, looks good. Let us know how they work out.

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The hard part is waiting for stuff to show up in the mail and patients is not always my strong point.....lol... 

I managed to salvage an 8 ohm 5watt speaker. I am still on the hunt for some lead weights to add above the drive wheels which should increase traction.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I have lead weights, and some car wheel weights. You can have what you want for the postage--but it'd be better to find the stuff locally!

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Powering up the Tender project is done.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I powered my tender a little different


















No trouble with track pickup


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

How does it work, have you had a chance to run it yet?


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I ran Tender today on the track with a voltmeter attacked to the leads and it works great. I am just waiting for my QSI sound card to come in the mail. Then I will hook it up.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Installed the new sound card and got everything up and running. Works like a charm 
Had to be creative for a connecter. Ended up using one from a computer hard drive that I picked up for a dollar.



















Next will be the decals and I should get them in a couple days.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

That computer plug doesn't look out of place at all. Glad it came out good for you. What's the purpose of the reed switch?

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I will paint the connector black so it blends in a bit. 
The reed switch controls the volume of the sound card. By placing a magnet over it the volume will go up and down or the card can be reset as well.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Why didn't they just put a pot on it for volume control?

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Les 

I just used what came with the card. Besides reaching under the card is a pain in the but anyway. I just sett the volume at max and leave it so its not like I play with it a lot.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Where and how do you pick up the impulses for the 'chuff' sound? I should've asked that before but keep forgetting.

Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

As I just found out the sound card does not need the chuff switch to operate but my Loco had one on the front wheels of the loco where twice every rotation it closed the switch It was just two pick up contact that got closed with a metal piece on the shaft.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Navy,

Thanks for the info and pic. When the time comes, I'll be asking all sorts of questions, but your posts have done a great deal to ease my mind on this whole subject. Gettin' old, I guess. Don't like adventures 'to see what will happen' anymore.









Les


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Well I got my Decals in and I think that I am finally finished this project. I may add some small detail things like tools and stuff when I collect some but the build itself is done.

Here is a before and after shot to put it all in comparison.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Great job! Thanks for taking time to post all the pixes.

Les


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

It always helps a lot of people when someone posts threads like this.
I must say thank you


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