# looking for very simple RC system



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm making a Thomas the Tank Engine train for my daughter. She loves Thmas, but I'm not ready to send 300 bucks on ebay for a used Lionel thomas train that was junky to begin with. I found a Thomas pull toy on ebay for 6 bucks and I'm in the process of adapting an old Bachmann big hauler to fit it. 

I was wondering about remote control. There's probably room for an aristo 75 mhz receiver in there, and I have one around. But is there a simpler, cheaper way to do just forward and reverse? I wonder, for example, if the Aristo basic train engineer unit would work. I could attach it to track power and use it to run "thomas" around. or I could put it in a trailing car. 

Any other options? Single frequency, simple, easy controller, forward and reverse, speed control. Maybe adapt an RC toy? My son, now 17, left a lot of RC toys in his wake


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

You can chop the workings out of most any RC toy and put them to use. Otherwise, I'd go for an Aristo Basic. She'll figure out how to use it pretty quick. 










Trinity here is 4. That's an Aristo Trackside unit.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

The basic in the case may be a bit too big--I just tried it with an aristo reversing unit, which uses the same case. Anyone ever take one apart?


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep. Nothing inside it but a little PC board, but it's almost the width and length of the basic receiver case.


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## Guest (Apr 21, 2008)

I'm a Battery and RCS guy, but in my Thommy Mack, I used a DPDT switch to control direction....easy for kids-cheap too!... 
Look at HLW on the members site...the presidential coach looks good painted like Annie and Clarabel! 
cale


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## Jim Kelly (Jan 2, 2008)

Might check out Playmobil trains... use their motor block and remote. Will it fit? Don't know.


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## sheepdog (Jan 2, 2008)

Like Torby said. Visit Radio Crap or Toys R Us and by a cheap R/C car. Now you have R/C forward and reverse but most likely not the right voltage to run Thomas. I think Thomas likes 12v. And Thomas would only run while you hold the button down. not bad for running a car but a huge waste of transmitter batteries running a train. 

So you will need to add two latching relays, a 12v source and you're off and running. 

I did this to add R/C whistle and bell to a Christmas train. The R/C was so cheap it was going off randomly due to electronic noise (interference) in the house. Not bad for a bell and whistle, not so good for an operating train. 

Craig


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

This is not a Lionel Thomas train, it's a loco I'm making from a wooden Thomas pull toy, using either a bachmann big hauler motor block or an old LGB mogul block. Probably the big hauler, unless I can't adapt it. 
It will be run on track power--there's no way to get batteries into it without a trailing car, which I don't want to do, and I run on track power anyway. 

The basic train engineer says "12-22 volts" on the case, so it should be fine with track power. I don't need a lot of range--20-30 feet would be fine. But I'm concerned it won't have enough range even for that, because there's not many options for concealing an antenna in a lock of wood


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## sheepdog (Jan 2, 2008)

I miss understood, sorry. 

Craig


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

No Problem--thanks for the help 

Here's a picture of the toy that I'm adapting: 










It' made of wood and MDF and it's mostly hollow inside. 

I don't have the big hauler at the moment, it's in storage at my folks place, but I measured my Annie and a Big hauler block should fit with some sawing and chiseling and cursing 

I'd like a remote controlled thomas that my three year old an other neighbor kids can run with no fuss or confusion. But on track power, not batteries


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 04/21/2008 3:36 PM
This is not a Lionel Thomas train, it's a loco I'm making from a wooden Thomas pull toy, using either a bachmann big hauler motor block or an old LGB mogul block. Probably the big hauler, unless I can't adapt it. 
It will be run on track power--there's no way to get batteries into it without a trailing car, which I don't want to do, and I run on track power anyway. 
The basic train engineer says "12-22 volts" on the case, so it should be fine with track power. I don't need a lot of range--20-30 feet would be fine. But I'm concerned it won't have enough range even for that, because there's not many options for concealing an antenna in a lock of wood




I tried using a TE Basic as an R/C unit with the antenna stuffed up (properly zigzaged) in an FA and was lucky to get 5-6 feet of range. I think it would be too frustrating for a child not to be able to control the engine reliably over 5 feet away.


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## copycats (Jan 4, 2008)

I just put a TE basic in a bachmann 10 wheeler and I can only get about 5 feet of reception with it. I am going to experment with the antena and see if I can get it to work better. Will let you know.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

How do you have the antenna?


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I did a lot of research and while some people report decent range with the Basic, most people say it's more like 5 feet. If I were willing to make some noise suppression stuff for the Bachmann drive, caps across the contacts and a choke, maybe it'd be worth it, but then I've got to buy components and buy the Basic TE--I'll probably just use the spare 75 mhz receiver I have on hand


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## BillBrakeman (Jan 3, 2008)

I mounted a Basic TE in a trailing car, wrapped the antenna around a piece of cardboard and mounted it horizontally above the BTE. In the HLW Mack I put two Radio Shack chokes before the motor. With this setup I have a range of approx 25-30 feet. I know you don't want a trailing car but a BTE should work just fine as a track-side unit. If it does't have satisfactory range try placing chokes in series with the motor, how difficult can that be? 
Bill


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll probably just use the spare 75 mhz receiver I have on hand 




That sounds like a good option for 2 reasons: 

1. You already have the remote to operate it. 
2. You know it and how to use it.


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## copycats (Jan 4, 2008)

If you are going to run track power then the basic TE wil get about 25-50 feet if you leave the antena out in the open at least thats what I was getting before I went to battery power and had to put the antena inside the tender.I wrapped the antena around and around the base just under the coal load.


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## Guest (Apr 25, 2008)

Lownote, I like RCS....simple and easy! Call Dave and he will hook you up. 

Toad


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

As mentioned several times, I'm using track power only. I once asked Tony Walsham if it was possible to use RCS onboard with track power and he said absolutely not and added that to do so would violate the "philosophy"of RCS.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Please let me explain what I did say. 

I certainly did say, no, it is not possible to use constant track power as the power for on board RCS R/C controllers as they are supplied. 
I do not supply such equipment as I am fully committed to battery power only. 

I also said that it would be possible to use such power with an RCS on board R/C controller *provided* the loco was fitted with a bridge rectifier from the track pick ups and suitable capacitance to ensure the track voltage was clean enough for use.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Oops--I apologize,I misunderstood


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Misunderstanding? That's my specialty!


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 04/25/2008 4:21 AM
Oops--I apologize,I misunderstood 





No need to apolgise. 

Good luck with your quest.


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## Guest (Apr 25, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 04/25/2008 6:36 AM
Misunderstanding? That's my specialty!



Thought it was being misunderstood/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Maybe this is TOOO simple. 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Shopping/Classifieds/tabid/61/agentType/View/PropertyID/20/Default.aspx 

This is called the critter control sold here in classifieds...not sure if this is what you are looking for. 

Bubba


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks, but it's battery only, I'm using track power... 

I tried a TE basic today and it worked fine for the most part--good enough range for what I want it to do 

But...the train runs with excruciating slowness. I wonder if there's a way to adjust this? There are some trim pots on the TE basic board....


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

I wouldn't say NO to a miss who was understanding!!!!! 
Any age 26 to 66.


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

lownote 

One of the reasons your search for what you would expect would be a readily available product is because: 
a) most folks who go to the trouble of installing the radio receiver onboard dispense with the hassle of track wiring by using batteries 
and 
b) most folks who go to the trouble of installing the track wiring use DCC 

The TE basic was designed for this purpose but it has not been a runaway success story. 

Is your reason for avoiding the mainstream approaches to controlling trains in a multitrain environment strictly because you are seeking a low cost solution ie bringing this in at a certain price point takes precedence over functionality, standard product offerings, and ease of installation/maintenance? 

Regards .. Doug


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

It's odd to me that more people don't run remote control with track power. I have a smallish layout, maybe 400 feet of track, and TE with track power works very well for this. I run an aristo track cleaning car 3 or so times around before I start an operating session, and then all's well. It's much simpler and cheaper than either DCC or batteries, and it has most of the advantages of both. I didn't have to get a bunch of expensive DCC gear that i don't understand, and i don't have to mess with battery cars and chargers and the expense they add. If I had a bigger layout, or a different design with reversing loops, I'd probably want either batteries or DCC. But yes, I suppose part of the reason I'm doing it this way is it's cheaper. 

I'm not really using anything non standard--I have two aristo locos and a bachman annie which all have TE receivers in them. I could put a 75 mhz TE in the thomas train but I wanted something really simple for a three year old, with no chance of kids pressing frequency buttons randomly and starting a different train. Trailing cars would be trouble. There's no room for batteries in the loco I'm kitbashing, so I had only one choice that i could see. 

From all the posts here it looks like there's no method of running trains that doesn't have some disadvantages 

I thknk I figured out what's happening with the Basic TE.When it gets out of range, it slows down--I can get it running fast when I'm very close, but as it moves away it reverts to a slow speed. There ought to be a way to set the default output voltage higher...


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## copycats (Jan 4, 2008)

I never have a problem with my basic TE slowing down when it gets out of range. It continues to run at whatever speed it went out of range at.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That's interesting--maybe I have a defective unit? I may have to send it to Aristo


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

lownote 

I think it is fairly clear why more folks do not run a TE with track power. 

First off, as you said, it is really only viable for a small railroad because for a large railroad then either battery/RC or DCC would be chosen. But a small railroad typically does not support multitrain operation on the same line - small railroads are usually run as a continuous loop or independent loops. The only advantage to DCC or battery RC or TE onboard with track power is to gain independent control of locomotives in a multitrain environment. 

In other words, small railroads are usually run with track power and if remote radio control is needed, the TE is inserted at the power supply ie a TE Trackside unit. 

When you use a TE Onboard, you have gone to the trouble and exp-ense of the basic radio installation ... all you have omitted is about $20 worth of NiMH batteries plus $5 worth of charging jack/switch and wires. Similarly, when you have wired track power you have gone to the trouble and expense of laying electricly conductive brass or ss track, undergraound buses, bonding the joints and buying a power supply. Plus you now have the long term maintenance of all that. Most folks would say that you incur the problems of both approaches without any of the benefits. 

Regards ... Doug


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Most people can say whatever they like, and do, and more power to them. As for me, I run up to three trains at once, in multiple directions. The "trouble" of track wiring consisted of running four wires for power, and adding an automatic crossing detector. Should I want to convert to batteries, I already have the RC gear ready. Works for me.


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

lownote 

Don't shoot the messenger - I only explained why more folks do not do what you want to do and therefore why the products you seek are not as readily available as you would like. It is your railroad and you can of course run it as you wish - but when you choose a less well travelled route you have to roll your own so to speak as the commercial offerings normally appeal to the mainstream. 

Regards ... Doug


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## Guest (Apr 26, 2008)

But a small railroad typically does not support multitrain operation on the same line - small railroads are usually run as a continuous loop or independent loops.

Don't shoot the messenger 

why not? if he brings incorrect messages.... 

where do you people see a problem, if not everybody wants to go battery? 
if you really think, that small railroads are restricted to "one train only" operations, you should look up the marvellous multitrain options one can realize with the LGB-epl system or other similar systems. 
really, trackpowered trains can be fun too.... 

korm 
.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

It's hard for me to buy the argument that battery is simpler or cheaper, or that by using RC and track power I've incurred most of the expense and trouble with no advantages. Aristo onboard units just plug into a socket--installation takes ten minutes at most. It was harder to put RC in a Bachmann annie, but no harder than it would have been with batteries. The only thing I can't do with my present system is reversing loops, but that would be easy to set up. I can run all the lights, sound, and smoke generators I want, or run the train as hard as I want, without worrying about batteries running down. Track conductivity isn't a problem because I laid most of it with clamps or Aristo joiners and used the conductive paste, the power supply cost 30 bucks on ebay. What would batteries provide? Never cleaning track. Well that's a nice thing, I'd like that. 

I can see the attraction of batteries, but for me, the way we're set up, it'd be a pain in the neck. I'd need to buy batteries, and chargers, I'd need to modify equipment to add jacks, I'd need a place to store chargers and batteries being charged in my small and crowded workshop. I'd need to keep track of what's charged and what's not. My rolling stock and engines all stay in a big shed I built--would I have to dig a trench andrun power to the shed, and set up chargers and jacks in the shed? Modify the shed to make it easy to run a charging jack to each train? If not, I'd have to modify the equipment so I could easily switch battery packs in and out, or go to trailing cars, which means getting plugs to go between. And as I pointed out at the beginning of this thread, the little Thomas train in question has no room for batteries. Going to batteries seems like a big pain in the neck with few advantages, and it's not a big deal to run a track cleaning caboose around a few times. 

Of course none of this is not all that hard to solve, and if you already run batteries and like it it seems easy, and if people prefer batteries good for them and there's lots of way to skin a cat. For the life of me I can't understand the weird heat that battery vs track power seem to generate around here. I' gig to convert and LGB diesel switcher to batteries, just to see hat all the fuss is about 

What's irritating about your post is the lecturing tone and the suggestion that this is some kind of foolish decision because it's not what most people do. Maybe I'm just misreading it. As far as I can see most of the pleasure for people in this forum comes from modifying, "fixing" and devising your own solutions


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## craigcoffman (Jan 2, 2008)

Lownote: 

I've run constant track power & on-board TEs for years. I think Duncan does too, so it's not as unusual as some would have you believe. I think it offers many advantages... multi-train operation in both directions, no battery charging, constant level lighting etc. For a myriad of reasons I have been slowly gravitating to battery power, but stil have my track-power setup & some trains un-converted. I worked out some neat solutions for reversing loops, automatic switch control, etc in that enviroment so if needed, drop me a note here. 

As far as the basic TE, I have on I use on-board. Until recently the range with it was always about 5' max. draping the antenna outside of the loco shell & back across it's consist really improved range. In my experience, the basic does slow down over the course of a few minutes, so if you ramp it up & let it circle it will eventually slow to a stop. Depending on the speed it was at, this may take 30 minutes to an hour though. 

Hope this helps. 

-- 
craig


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Fortunately there are people that are loyal to BOTH track and battery power...and it always seems to bring up this UGLY battle over what is better. 

I think I remember the origional posting was that someone was looking for A cheap R/C...is that really a reality? Either track or battery power...not in my world. 

What works for one doesn't work for others...hence I've never really believed the "one size fits' all" saying. 

If you like the posibility of light'ning striking the layout, the continual track cleaning, and the possibility of shorts when trains derails, or running of wires to do god-knows what you need to do on your layout to make it your dream....last the extra added expense of rail clamps to keep the continuiety flowing...which on a modest size layout would pay for a decent R/C unit. 

OR 

Having to tear apart engines to isolate motor wires, and have multiple chargers, numerous batteries to run as long as I run, keeping them trickle charged as to not go bad sitting waiting top be used...not to mention all the expense to get to this point...running way accross the yard to change batteries as the batteries seem to go dead in the most user UN-friendly spot in your yard...usually in the dark....lastly making sure you don't cross the battery leads as to get magic smoke.....what a choice this is/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif 

That being stated....I have done both and track power has always had me jumping up and down on my track when I had a problem with continuiety....of course that was my falt..had I used clamps maybe I would have not had to jump much...but I don't miss the track cleaning with or without a track cleaning block or car /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/ermm.gif 

So for me...now I find after all the expense I have invested in my MULTIPLE batteries and charger combos'....I prefurr battery power. 

I fully support anyone using what they want to use....but I might add that when posting this sort of a thing...be ready for this kind of non-sense view defenseing! Egos' are the worst thing God created! 

A friend of mine starts his presentations with...."It's your railroad...you can do what you want" 

I can only add...DITTO! 

Bubba


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It's too bad that power discussions almost always get acrimonious. 

I studied and read for several years before I ever posted anything, and before I bought any power hardware. 

For my requirements, I really had to go track power. By reading and asking questions, I came up with a solution that works perfectly for me, and is way cheaper than batteries. 

But there are many cases where battery is the right choice, and I try to answer questions based on what the person asking wants, and what is best for him. 

Too many times I see threads where someone asks about track power, and all the battery guys come out and tell him why he should go battery. (Funny, it's not often the reverse situation!). 

Each person has his own requirements, and we have to respect that. 

All that notwithstanding, people asking questions are looking for information, so if someone sees a possible flaw in suggestions, or fundamental conclusions, giving counterpoint in a helpful manner is appropriate. 

If we can keep it all factual and objective, then maybe the discussions can concentrate on the question, not emiotion. 

Regards, Greg


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## Guest (Apr 28, 2008)

Wow, so this went no where fast...I went back and re-read all post...there were three mentions of battery power early on...Mine (where I only described myself as a battery guy using a DPDT for control-cheap and easy, though not RC), then 2 others who misunderstood what had been asked, but did offer help/opinions. 
Later when the org poster asked why more folks don't use the TE and Track power, and Dougald explained, with a very sensible response, his thoughts on the question asked...the thread goes back to the same ole....-No way battery can be cheaper, easier, etc....- and that's, dare I say, preference and perception. 

Like Bubba said, "It's your railroad...you can do what you want"....good luck and have fun! 
cale


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

It's all good. Thanks very much to everyone for their generous suggestions. 

I did try a TE Basic. It worked--sort of. The range was very limited, but the bigger problem was the thing worked intermittently. It seemed very sensitive to being inside a wood and mdf enclosure--it would work with the shell off, but not with the shell on. Then it would stop working altogether for a while, then work. Sometimes it worked very well with the shell on, then I'd bring it inside and put it on the bench and have lunch and it'd stop working. I'm sending it to Aristo and if it comes back still problematic I'll switch to plan B, which is as yet unknown. 

I'm also ordering one of those chokes from RCS to see if I can limit motor noise. 

Meanwhile I started looking into converting an old LGB 4 wheeler to battery. Umm--it's neither simple nor cheap. But then, neither is anything else associated with this hobby!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

But then, neither is anything else associated with this hobby! 




Have you looked at golf? Large Scale Trains are positively thrifty! 

(Disclaimer: I have never golfed but I work at a company that sells software for golf courses.)


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## Guest (Apr 28, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 04/28/2008 6:45 AM

Meanwhile I started looking into converting an old LGB 4 wheeler to battery. Umm--it's neither simple nor cheap. 




I just finished a LBG Diesel Switcher...Lemmie know if I can help, It's a pretty simple deal. 

cale


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## pdk (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm scratching my head here over the anger Doug has raised in some of you. 

Doug took a shot at answering the question asked. Sounded fair to me. Where you hear Doug saying battery power is better and cheaper is a mystery to me? 

And I don't detect any lecturing tone (how does one write tone, anyway?).


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 04/25/2008 12:03 PM
Thanks, but it's battery only, I'm using track power... 
I tried a TE basic today and it worked fine for the most part--good enough range for what I want it to do 
But...the train runs with excruciating slowness. I wonder if there's a way to adjust this? There are some trim pots on the TE basic board....




What is your powerpack set at? On my BTE I have to set the knob at about 3/4 to 4/5 full power to get good operations with slow to fast speeds.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I tried it outside and on my test bench, and in both places I had it set to 20 volts. I got past the slowness problem--the thing would move out of range before it could hit anything close to high speed. It's on its way to Aristo as we speak. 

I had a thought about RF interference--rooted in ignorance and so maybe way off base. Is it worth it to shield the motor? I know with an electric guitar the pickups tend to hum and buzz whenever you're near flourescent lights or neon or dimmers--basically, whenever you're playing in a bar--and shielding the electronics makes a huge difference. You just line the control cavity with conductive tape or conductive paint. Would that work to shield a decoder from motor noise?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Most of your problem is probably conducted RF, not radiated RF. (coming down the wires, not going through the air. 

So shielding would probably not help much, and based on many posts by others, the problem was conducted RF. 

Start at the motor, a small disc cap across the brushes with leads as short as possible. a .1 cap would be good. Then chokes on each line from the motor would kill most everything. There's been a number of posts, search for "choke". 

Regards, Greg


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## VillageRail (Apr 25, 2008)

Amazing how quickly a simple question gets deeply into the technical realm. I've have some battery and some track power, and I like both for different reasons and different circumstances. However I don't have any single loop running more than around 100 feet, so both can work. I frequently run temporary layouts in the house (until I get complaints of stepping over track), so I can change power setups depending on the trains I want to run. The Aristo TE has worked very well for me, but I'm not running it onboard so it has no trouble from across a layout. 

I do have a simple solution for people who have the grandkids or neighbors come over. I bought a couple of the Scientific Toys RC trains on ebay. One is based on Toy Story, the other is Disney. My daughter could run this when she was two, and they held up well to her rough handling over time. They go forward, backwards, and have smoke as well as a sound button. And she loves the sound. It does a slow buildup of a steam engine, with the engineer calling out "All Aboard!". Scientific Toys and Echo brands will run on the brass track. New Bright is only good for painting and leaving out as background decoration, or in "play" sections if you have kids around frequently. Keeps their hands off my good trains. ;-) 

Good luck with Thomas. Would love to see a picture of the completed engine on the tracks. 

Paul


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thought maybe I'd offer an update. I got the Basic TE unit back from Aristo and reinstalled it with: 


A: One of those circuit board mounted chokes RCS sells--two chokes, two caps. 
B: Shielding with metal foil tape. I put a couple pieces of metal foil tape over the chassis, and then covered the underside of the plastic case the TE Basic came in. 


I took the antenna and wound it carefully over a black plastic pen tube I cut to size, then drilled a hole through Thomas' coal load and hot glued it to the coal. No crossing of the antenna wire. 


It works, but the range is at very best maybe ten feet, in practice more like 5 feet. As far as I can tell the RCS choke did nothing. The shielding may have done a little, or it may just be my imagination 

It works, and my daughter likes it, but it's pretty marginal. 

I can't say I wasn't warned! 

Here's the little fellow, completed. After hollowing out the original wooden model I added front and back bumpers, a front lantern, and some whistles I fabricated out of dowels and wire and paint.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, ain't that the cutest!


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## craigcoffman (Jan 2, 2008)

I was recently able to extend the range of my on-board mounted TE basic by stretching out the antenna over the consist behind the loco. I had tried the wrapping of the antenna around a plastic tube as you did, using a wire-whip for an antenna, etc. Lots of experimenting. Nothing worked very well. However, by simply stretching out the antenna wire over a very short consist. (Center-Cab pulling a two-axle gondola & a two axle caboose, I was able to get a range of 40-50 feet.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I doubled the antenna length on my basic TE and get over 20 feet for range. 
I use a laptop power pack and my basic TE is for track power control. 

If I turn on anything that has 27mhz output, (Rokenbok for example) my range drops to 5 feet.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I get several hundred feet with my homemade RC system


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By SE18 on 05/06/2008 8:08 AM
I get several hundred feet with my homemade RC system




Perhaps you could share the details of this system?


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By SE18 on 05/06/2008 8:08 AM
I get several hundred feet with my homemade RC system



SEVERAL HUNDRED FEET??????????????????????????????????????????????I want to know more also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif


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## VillageRail (Apr 25, 2008)

The finished model looks great! 

Is the model to scale with the real Thomas?  

Paul


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## trw1089 (Jan 27, 2008)

Hi all 

I am entering into this discussion with a bit of trepidation given what has gone before, but have you thought about using one of RCS's Titan power packs. I picked one up last week from Tony Walsham, plugged it in and had my 6 year old driving it within a few minutes. It took about a minute for him to get used to the controller, so I'd think a 3-4 year old would pick it up pretty quick. OK, its not what I'd call cheap, but it certainly was a quick way to introduce radio control to the railroad without any mods to locos. I am getting at least 50-100 foot range from the Titan (I can't get any further away from it than that or I'd be out on the road...). 

For quick and easy, as they say on the small screen, it works for me. 

I'm also going down the battery path on my bashed Bachmann Dizzie with an existing R/C TX and RX plugged into one of the Evo B2 ESC's from RCS using Ni MH batteries, which I reckon will cost me ~$200 all up with the batteries and a couple of accessories, but it has also worked a treat with at least 50 foot range on test (i.e. unoptimised). 

I also have looked for a "cheap" option and have yet to find one that still allows me to use the loco as I would using track power, but there are plenty of "easy" options. The Titan certainly fits into the latter, as it has enough simplicity to use straight out of the box (using a laptop power supply as the source) which works well for my existing locos, and as the locos go through the shop, some will get batteries and onboard R/C so I get the best of both worlds. 

Just my 2 cents worth! 

Cheers 
Tony 

PS I think your Thomas model has worked out really well and I hope your daughter gets a lot of enjoyment out of it.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Tony. 

Thanks for the plug. 

I used to sell a lot of my trackside R/C units in the USA before AristoCraft brought out the Train Engineer (TE)trackside R/C. 
I simply cannot compete on cost with the Chinese so the TE dominates the USA market. 
No complaints. 
That is just business. 

I do still sell a lot of them in Australia because here the TE is quite a bit more expensive than my TITAN-3.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks TRW. My small layout uses track power and onboard RC. There's no room to get batteries in the little thomas model and I don't want to use a trailing car because it's for kids


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