# C-16 "rise from the dead"



## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

I am in the process of resurrecting an old "well used" Accucraft C-16 that had some interesting mods done to it. In my search for parts I talked to Cliff Luscher at Accucraft and he suggested I make a plea to the live steam community in the hopes that someone out there might have some C-16 things still kicking around. Cliff recalled an individual with the possible last name of *Crawford*, who some years ago bought out his remaining stock of chassis and other items related to the C-16, does anybody know who this might be and how to contact him?. I am in particular need of the main rods and the cross head guide support which appears to me to be different from the original?. There are other issues to be dealt with that I feel I can deal with by either fabrication or purchasing, the main rods on the other hand I would prefer to get originals if I can. Other items I need are fuel tank and valve, boiler insulation, water glass assembly and boiler check valve. Any help would be appreciated.

Tim Miller
Portland


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Tim, 

That Crawford would probably be "The Colonel" - Noel Crawford. He and Roger Cutter purchased a bunch of old C-16 stuff from Cliff many years ago. Most were electric locos bits, though I'm sure the rods were/are the same. I will email and ask them to read this.

fuel tank and valve, boiler insulation, water glass assembly and boiler check valve. 
Any small/medium Accucraft fuel tank should fit, and they can probably supply a gas valve. There are bolts in the floor of the tender for the tank - it wasn't very watertight originally anyway. 

Cliff probably has a water glass mount from some other loco, and you might be able to cut new glass to make it fit? 

The original C-16 never had a check valve, but it has a blank on the backhead with the standard Accucraft M5 thread, so you can buy a check valve from Ciiff, or buy a hand pump kit and you will get a valve. 

I have a load of photos dating from when I put r/c in mine, so let me know if there's something specific you need a pic of.


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Tim, 
I am the Colonel...somehow got that handle from the bunch of reprobates I hang out with me being a retired LTC Eh Peter! If you will email me off site of just what specif parts you are looking for, I will go through the remaining bits and pieces I have. Don't hold your breath, because it may take me a while. 
I need to know what model this is. Is it the modern version or a 1880's version? I have rebuilt my C-16 for the third time and still working one it. It will come out as DSP&P #207 (I think) I have a couple of stripped down frames. One electric and the other I am not sure of. 
Best Regards 
Noel Crawford 
[email protected] 
PS Some pictures would help.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have the main rods and they are just worn, you can install bushings or ball bearings and they will be fine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By placitassteam on 11 Oct 2013 08:24 PM 
If you have the main rods and they are just worn, you can install bushings or ball bearings and they will be fine. 
Good call - I remembered that Charles and Ryan at TRS were in the habit of re-bushing the rods. Mine never needed it.
http://www.realsteamservices.com/

And check out this thread about replacing bearings:
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx [ /Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/11/a...fault.aspx]


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

And check out this thread abut eplacing bearings:http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx ">http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...aspx [ http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx">/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/11/a...fault.aspx] 
Let's see if I can make any of these work by posting it once and only once 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/11/aft/128956/afv/topic/Default.aspx


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

The main rods were not only in need of re-bushing but had been lengthened or replaced to drive the third driver, as apposed to the second. My hope is to bring it back to the D&RGW configuration, rods driving the second set. All the details, oilier cups and bolts, were also missing. If it comes to remaking them I will but my hope is to find replacements even if those needed some work.

Tim


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

It also occurred to me that the boiler should be tested, probably before I go any further. What is the procedure, ultimate pressure, that should be obtained during the hydrostatic test. I'm not even sure what the running pressure would be for this loco.


Tim


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Tim, 
Running pressure is between 40 to 60 psi. Hydro test should be between 80 and 120 psi. Twice steam pressure.
noel


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

had been lengthened or replaced to drive the third driver 
There was an EBT 2-8-0, #7, (which was actually a C-19, but Accucraft did the C-16 first.) Anyway, it originally had the main rod to the secon axle, but later, when it was sold to another RR, the main rod was moved to the third. Maybe someone was trying to model that? Check with Noel to see what he has in his parts box. 

What is the procedure 
When I was testing mine, I hooked up a bicycle pump to the check valve on the backhead, and pumped it up. Noel - what do you use?


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, 
I have a hydrostatic set up for boiler testing. Fill boiler with water and let it sit over night to get the air out of the water, then fill to the brim. 
Hand pump until desired pressure reached and let it set. If the pressure gauge needle does not move then you are OK. If it does move down then you have a leak somewhere. As for air testing complete loco I have a compressor. 
Noel


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

I want to thank all those who have posted here, it all has been a great help. I would like to thank Noel especially for all he has offered. I am posting some shots of this project and will try my best to keep you all updated as progress continues. Up to this point I have performed a hydrostatic test on the boiler *and it passed* so full steam ahead as they say!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

That's some project you got there.


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## Kurt Sykes (Feb 28, 2008)

Hello Tim, 
What my dad did was he put C21 main rods on there,Also that is the original cross head guides on her. 
Like I said,It will fire up and run great, just needs cleaning up and a fuel tank. 

Kurt


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

Hey Kurt.


This loco has a heart of gold and she did run great on air. Thanks for the update as far as the rods and X H hanger go, the hanger had no paint on it so I was just a little uncertain. I hated to remove that beautiful patina, it had such a natural weathered look but there were some things I wanted to change and fix up. Tell your dad she will live to steam someday, maybe by the spring steam up, we'll see. There are a just few holes in the tender that need plugged







.

Tim


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## Kurt Sykes (Feb 28, 2008)

Good news Tim, 
We have found the rods to the C16............HOO RAY


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Tim,

Since Kurt found the main rods for you, I won't send mine. I will use them for another project. Still looking for a gas tank for you. Send me the dimensions if you can and I can scratch one up for you.
Noel


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

Hey Kurt that is great news, I will be coming north for the steam up at Mikes on Saturday so if you are going I can pick them up then. 

Noel, Thank you again for your contribution, I'm glad you found yours and will be able to use them on another project. Be on the lookout for a small brown box  

Tim


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Tim, 
About the water glass. Please send me some pictures of the backhead and area of the current situation with the water glass. I will inspect my parts and match them best I can for you. I take it you do not need the main rods correct? I have your brake shoes and hangers ready to go so the pictures are important for the water glass. Send pvt email please. 
Noel 
PS still no luck on the gas tank. Send dimensions and I will see what I can do. 
N


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## Kurt Sykes (Feb 28, 2008)

Yes Tim, I will be at mikes. 
See you there.


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

Now that Halloween is over I'd like to unofficially rename the subject heading to *"C-16 Restoration"*







I would like to thank several people for coming up with some very useful parts. Noel contributed brake detail and water glass fittings; Nick Fisher had the original main rods and also contributed two rod pins. Don Scott contributed the original fuel tank. I would also like to thank Dave and Kurt Sykes for helping me round up those parts. As of today the loco has had almost every part repainted, I did the side rod pin repair Dwight Ennis outlined in his great PDF under Live Steam Forums. The tender is down to bare brass and will be getting paint soon. Here are a couple of shots during a pre assemble fitting, no boiler installed yet. Tim


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## Kurt Sykes (Feb 28, 2008)

That is going to be one fine looking steamer Tim. 
Have fun with it. 

Kurt


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Tlim. Glad to be a bit of help. Next lets see here under steam. 
Noel


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Tim, 
You have done a magnificent job with what you had to work with. 
Looking forward to seeing it steam one day, maybe in the Spring. 
Regards, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

Here is a quick photo update of the C-16 project. After much frustration with _Poly Scale Silver_ I went with _ScaleCoat Graphite_ _and Oil_ on the smoke box. Very pleased with the final results. Various missing details were replaced with _Track Side Details_ and _Precision Scale_ parts. Decals are next but will wait and do them when the tender is ready. I'm still wondering what the best decal over coat for a live steam locos is, would appreciate any suggestions. The back head is pretty much complete, still waiting on one fitting. The tender may get a new inner tank rather than plug the many holes. More to follow. T


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Tim, 
Great job !! She is looking beautiful. As for decal protective cover you might try Krylon clear enamel spray. I would do a scrap piece first and really give it the workout. Steam, oil, detergent etc. Should hold up after a reasonable curing period of a week or two. Now lets see her strut her stuff under steam. 
Noel


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I've used Future acrylic floor covering (Clear acrylic) to seal the decals on my live steamers with very good results. Cut it about 50:50 with water and brush it on. It settles down without any brush strokes. I also use that to seal my graphite-rubbed boiler jackets (looks like plannished iron when done). It's held up very well to steaming and cleaning of oil. (I hate it when oil gets all over my weathering!) 

Later, 

K


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"(I hate it when oil gets all over my weathering!) "









Kevin;

That comment made me laugh. Way back when I ran the 1:1 Porters, we would clean off the soot and oily "smuts" with kerosene, then shine the locomotive with an application of 30 weight re-refined motor oil. We wanted them shiny for the tourists, so okay for us, but I can see your dilemma.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## TIMX (Dec 8, 2011)

Hey thanks Noel and Keven, I will do some test with both these finishes and see how they work for me. My thought was that I would like to tone down the shine a bit but I'm not fixed on that idea. 

Tim


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