# Aristo Wide Radius Switch Springs



## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been doing some cleaning on my Aristo Wide Radius Switches. 

When I throw the throw bar, nothing happens. After much work sometimes I can get it to move the points a little bit. I have carefully removed all dirt, pine needles and any other obstructions from the moving parts of the switch.

These switches (about 25) are all 4-5 years old. I am wondering if there is any way to replace the springs with something a little more robust.

I did take one apart and then could not figure out how to put it back together, but that is another story.

If anyone has done this and can give me some specific directions with maybe a few pictures I would appreciate it.

Another thought: I have what amounts to a reverse loop on one end of my railroad. I was wondering, If I use the switch which I took apart and could not reassemble would engines be able to pass through it and throw the points without derailing? If that were the case, then I could run trains without having to worry about throwing that one switch.

John


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

If you take the Switch motor / actuator off the switch does the Switch move freely? Does the switch motor / actuator work freely? 

JJ


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, The handle moves freely. Sometimes the points move slightly, sometimes not at all. However, if I push thenm by hand they move pretty smoothly. Nothing seems to be binding them.

I think it is the spring that has lost some of its tension.

Surely, I cannot be the only user of Aristo switches who is experiencing this problem. Of course that seems to be my luck.

How many times have I heard, "Well, we have never seen that happen before!"

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Remove the switch motor, the points should move effortlessly, in fact if you could pick the switch up and hold vertically, the points should move by gravity alone. 

If they don't, then you need to work on the switch until they do. 

The Aristo springs are not high force, and it's meant to be that way. 

Regards, Greg


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

John,
One thing I do every spring, after cleaning out all of the dirt, stones, etc. I'll put a liberal amount of WD40 on the points moving parts while moving them back and forth with my finger. 


After exercising it for a dozen cycles, or so, it typically will work as advertised for the rest of the season. I also keep the 2-3 inch area under the points cleaned out below the ties so no stones, or dirt are close enough to give problems later on. Seems to work for me. 


Mark

*http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/*


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Or just throw the switch machines away and work the points with your fingers. I use a bare toe.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom, I know you are just kidding around, but to help this guy, it needs to be underscored that the mechanism needs to be free and pretty much frictionless. The test of it dropping into place with gravity is a great one, that leaves the subjective part out. 

Also, your big toe is significantly stronger than gravity (pressure I mean, not smell, ha ha) 

Greg


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

I took some of your advice.

I thoroughly cleaned the switches and then I sprayed WD40 on the points and on the throw bar. I hope the plastic is compatible. Amazingly, they do seem to move much more freely now.

I started to take one apart.

On the box that the throw bar goes through and where the spring hides, there are 3 small screws on the bottom side. I removed these screws and then took a screw driver and tried to pry the lid off the box to see what was inside.

The lid would only partially come up and since I had no idea what I was doing, I did not try to force it to remove it so I never did get inside. However, I was able to see a round gear inside. Does this cover come off?

The reason I was trying was because one of my switches operates just the opposite of the others. In other words, when the handle is in position to allow a train to go straight through, on this switch that is the position that allows trains to take the diverging route on all my other switches.

Does that make sense?

Speaking of toes, When we had our first child, I told my wife that I was going to teach him to hold a pen and a fork with his toes, since they were so flexible and plyable at that age. She told me she would not have me tuning our child into a MONKEY and got really upset. I still think that from birth to about 6 months a baby could be trained to use its toes just as well as it uses its fingers. We got divorced after 20 years, this may have been a contributing factor.

John


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

Gregg,

So I am just "This Guy"? I don't have a name?

Yes, I am not very knowledgeable about garden railroading. Everything I learn is through trial and error.

But I have been on this site almost from the beginning when everyone diserted that other site way back when, so long ago I cannot even remember when it was.

Anyway, This Guy thanks you for your help.

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sorry John, was not meaning to be impersonal!! 

Just trying to give helpful advice, and poking some fun at Tom, since his "signature" is bare feet! 

Glad it's progressing. I think there's a guide to the switches on my site, most likely by Ted Doskaris. I'm really sleepy or I would look the link up for you. 

Regards, Greg


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

I was doing the same, just poking some fun at you.

Did not intend to offend, just havin some fun.

I know I am not considered to be an expert on this site by any means so I appreciate any help I can get.

I wish I had someone close eonough to me that could come and critique my efforts in person some time.

They would problably get a real big laugh out of it.

John


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have gotten rid of all my manual switch throw boxes (LGB and Aristocraft). They kept filling up with mud and insects and stopped working properly. Jim Stapleton (AKA Dr. Rivet) has a neat solution.

It involves a piece of brass rod (about 0.05" or 0.112mm diameter), two spikes and a couple of holes drilled into the switch ties.

This is a picture of an LGB 18000 series switch. 




















In order to throw the switch all you have to do is unhook the rod from one spike and then hook it behind the other. I also put a second right angle bend at each end of the rod so it will hook under the tie and switch slide. I bent one to the left and one to the right. This keeps them from popping out.

If you play around with the spacing of the spikes you can set the tension so that it will act as a spring switch. Or if you are running in only one direction you can put the rod between the two spikes and it will flop for which ever way the train is heading and stay that way.

Now all I have to do is hit the space under the slide with water to flush out any debris that gets in there and I'm good to go. 


Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom Ruby! 

Time for you to post your famous safety pin setup please! 

Greg


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Some info. about Aristo's WR turnouts.


The following Vignette I wrote sometime ago may be of help:
Title, *Aristo Wide Radius Turnout improvements Vignette*

Aristo's manual control stand is essentially a gutted motorized one - sharing some basic parts.
Even if you are using the Aristo manual control stands, the following Vignette may be helpful:
Title, *Aristo-Craft Turnout Motor Vignette*

-Ted


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

Ted.

I read your information about the aristo switches.

Could you go into some greater detail about what you meant by adjusting the screws on the switches?

Thanks,

John


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

John, 

The screws to be adjusted are the ones on each point rail - at the pivot end and at the point (throw bar) end. If too tight, the point rails won't perform the gravity test; if too loose the point rails will wobble. Tweak the screws accordingly. 

-Ted


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom, is it me getting old, or that picture is getting fuzzier each year? 

;-) 

Thanks, Greg


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Thanks for asking for that Greg and for Tom posting it. I remember seeing that some time back but I didn't need it then. Things have changed and I have a spot where it would work great now. But I couldn't remember where I had seen it before. Now I know what to do.
Thanks guys,
Bob


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I do need to take a new photo. That old gray camera was the hardest thing to shoot with.


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