# Build a Wireless DC 10 amp Controller under $100.00



## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

If you are reading this post, you are like me in loving traditional DC Track Power operation, but want the ability to control your trains remotely without having to mortgage your home, or spend time converting all of your locomotives (I have over 30) to DCC or Battery. I have built an inexpensive DC Track Controller that you can build without having an Electronics Degree. All of the parts I used were ordered from Amazon.

Start with ordering an inexpensive Computer Power Supply that is 24 volts and at least 10 amps. They have larger amperage PSU's available if you plan on running multiple trains or motive power consists. Single Motor locomotives like Steam Engines typically draw .5 to 2 amps. Add lights and smoke generators and you could be up to 3 amps per locomotive. Dual motor locomotives like USA Trains and Aristocraft Diesels will require a minimum of 3 to 4 amps per locomotive. At 10 amps I can run two steam locomotives and one USA trains NW2 dual motor with lights and smoke enabled without issue with a 10 amp PSU.

Click here for the PSU I use

Next, you will want to order the wireless Speed Controller. I have tried multiple brands, but found that this one works the best, and has the POTs for starting power or manual operation. It does not come with the 12 volt battery (Model A23) for the remote. You can pick them up at any Battery Supply store. I got mine at Walgreens or CVS Pharmacy. The remote can go as far as 100 feet from the control board. I can even go around the side of my house which is Stucco where I have a siding (rail yard) without issue.

Click here for Speed Controller

If you want manual operation as well, you will have to order a 3 way switch. If the switch is thrown in forward direction or reverse, the wireless receiver will not work. I can give you the wiring diagram if you wish to add a manual switch to your controller.

Last, you will want an enclosure of some kind. You could also mount the equipment to a board. I chose an outdoor enclosure as mine is permanently mounted to the exterior wall of the house. I added a 24 volt fan blowing out to allow cooling of the electronic components while in operation. I also added a 2 way switch rated for 110 volts as a power on/off switch.

Click here for the enclosure I used.

Additional materials needed:
-A power cord that has the ground plug (important if you will leave the equipment outside.)
-Screws to hold the equipment down
-Wire (I used 16 gauge that I stripped from an old orange extension cord.) This is used to wire the jumpers between the power supply and the speed controller. You will also want at least 16 gauge wire going from the speed controller to the track. I use 12 gauge direct burial wire connected to multiple points of my mainline approximately every 10 feet. Track joiners like Split Jaw work very well in preventing conductivity loss.














































I also added a Low Pass Filter to convert from PWM to linear power. This is not required, and most locomotives will run more smooth in slow speeds with PWM. I replaced all my directional lights with LED's, and noticed that the lights that should not be on flicker with PWM power. If you would like a low pass filter added, I ordered the Crest Low Pass Filter. I can send the link if you would like that as well.

Feel free to reply if you are interested in this easy-to-build wireless controller. I will answer any questions you have. I have been running this setup for over a year now without issues, and have only replaced the 12 volt battery in the remote once.

Enjoy!


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Techgunner said:


> If you are reading this post, you are like me in loving traditional DC Track Power operation, but want the ability to control your trains remotely without having to mortgage your home, or spend time converting all of your locomotives (I have over 30) to DCC or Battery. I have built an inexpensive DC Track Controller that you can build without having an Electronics Degree. All of the parts I used were ordered from Amazon.
> 
> Start with ordering an inexpensive Computer Power Supply that is 24 volts and at least 10 amps. They have larger amperage PSU's available if you plan on running multiple trains or motive power consists. Single Motor locomotives like Steam Engines typically draw .5 to 2 amps. Add lights and smoke generators and you could be up to 3 amps per locomotive. Dual motor locomotives like USA Trains and Aristocraft Diesels will require a minimum of 3 to 4 amps per locomotive. At 10 amps I can run two steam locomotives and one USA trains NW2 dual motor with lights and smoke enabled without issue with a 10 amp PSU.
> 
> ...


Looks really great. Which low pass filter did you use?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

12 volt 23 amp battery for the remote must be a typo, please correct this.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Rjstruble said:


> Looks really great. Which low pass filter did you use?


The Aristcraft one.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Dan Pierce said:


> 12 volt 23 amp battery for the remote must be a typo, please correct this.


Done


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Techgunner said:


> The Aristcraft one.


Can’t seem to find an aristocrat low pass filter. Any additional details?


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Rjstruble said:


> Can’t seem to find an aristocrat low pass filter. Any additional details?


Here is a link to a website that builds them. The Aristocraft version was model CRE57091









PWM to Linear DC Converter


Custom Vinyl Lettering and Electronics for Garden Railroading



www.gscalegraphics.net


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Great info. If I had a layout I'd be all over it.



Techgunner said:


> No it is a 12v 23amp battery. https://www.amazon.com/A23-Alkaline...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468345269&psc=1


Er, I think it is a type 23A battery, not a 23 Amp battery. It's also referred to as A23 type.


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Thx just ordered


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Techgunner said:


> No it is a 12v 23amp battery. https://www.amazon.com/A23-Alkaline...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468345269&psc=1


Uhh, so you realize how large a 23 amp 12v battery is? About the size of a loaf of sourdough bread.

It is a 12 volt battery, *TYPE *A23, as in battery model number. typically used in compact garage door opener remotes.

Greg


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## Jason Slenker (Sep 5, 2021)

This is a very cool option you have come up with. I love this type of project. Lot's of cool electronic widgets like that on Amazon that are direct from China. Voltage regulator boards, remote control boards etc. I use stuff like that at work and in the hobby. Well done.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Pete Thornton said:


> Great info. If I had a layout I'd be all over it.
> 
> 
> Er, I think it is a type 23A battery, not a 23 Amp battery. It's also referred to as A23 type.


Thanks for the clarification


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Uhh, so you realize how large a 23 amp 12v battery is? About the size of a loaf of sourdough bread.
> 
> It is a 12 volt battery, *TYPE *A23, as in battery model number. typically used in compact garage door opener remotes.
> 
> Greg


Yes you are right. I made the assumption of 23 Amp with the 23A marking on the battery. I also corrected this in the original post.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Jason Slenker said:


> This is a very cool option you have come up with. I love this type of project. Lot's of cool electronic widgets like that on Amazon that are direct from China. Voltage regulator boards, remote control boards etc. I use stuff like that at work and in the hobby. Well done.


Thanks Jason. It was a fun project to build and execute.


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

So I got this up and running works great fun to do. Thanks so much for the idea and instructions.

Question though, I want to run two separate loops using two separate setups. The problem seems to be that the remotes send commands to both boxes, they must be on the same frequency. Any ideas on how to overcome that? I have a question in to the manufacturer.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Rjstruble said:


> Question though, I want to run two separate loops using two separate setups. The problem seems to be that the remotes send commands to both boxes, they must be on the same frequency. Any ideas on how to overcome that? I


Unfortunately there isn't a frequency pot to change the channel. You can find out if the company can ship out a speed controller on a seperate channel. The only option would be to run one of the loops manually using the supplied POT and adding a three way switch to the wire harness. This will disable the remote when the switch is thrown in forward or reverse. Then use the POT as a throttle to adjust speed. Of course that then defeats the purpose of wireless control. Hopefully the manufacturer has the option of a seperate channel on the frequency they use.


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Thanks man that’s what I thought.


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## jody (Jan 3, 2016)

Thank you. Could you please post your wiring diagram?


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Good news I contacted the seller on amazon and ther appears to be a fix. You solder a corresponding joint in both the receiver and transmitter and it changes the channel to not interfere. I’ll try it today. Pic below.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Rjstruble said:


> Good news I contacted the seller on amazon and ther appears to be a fix. You solder a corresponding joint in both the receiver and transmitter and it changes the channel to not interfere. I’ll try it today. Pic below.


That is awesome news! I am glad they had a way for you to change the channel. If I ever decide to add another loop or separate spur with another wireless controller I will know what to do. 

Thanks for the info.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

jody said:


> Thank you. Could you please post your wiring diagram?


The wiring diagram for manual operation using the supplied POT and wire harness or wiring the power supply to the speed control board?

Wiring the speed control board to the power supply uses the first two terminals (if the terminals are down then the terminals on the left.) Pins 3 and 4 of the speed controller go to track power. The only other wiring for remote control is the power cable for the power supply. They mark the terminals so you will know which terminals to wire up the power cord. If you still need assistance I can send detailed images of the wiring.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

FYI. This particular remote speed controller also has a toggle relay that is controlled by button 5 on the remote. I wired up the positive side of all my structure lights to normally open state (NO), When I press the 5 button on my remote all of my building structures and building smoke generators turn on. Very cool to have a remote for lights. Let me know if you need help with this relay feature on the board.


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Worked like a charm, wireless on two loops!


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Rjstruble said:


> Worked like a charm, wireless on two loops!


That is great. It is exciting building a controller and have it work. Please post pics. I would love to see your controller design.

P.S. Did you add the low pass filter as well or wire track power directly to the speed control board?


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Way simpler than yours. It’s just the remote box in series with the PWM to linear board. I’m going to try to mount it in my electronics cabinet inside my shed and see if the remote coverage is ok. Looks like it will be. I’ll post when done.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

BTW pressing the 3 button while you have a train running at scale 40mph is a bad idea. It ends up with multiple derailed cars.


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## Rjstruble (Nov 11, 2020)

Got it thx


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## Kevin Nugent (12 mo ago)

Techgunner said:


> If you are reading this post, you are like me in loving traditional DC Track Power operation, but want the ability to control your trains remotely without having to mortgage your home, or spend time converting all of your locomotives (I have over 30) to DCC or Battery. I have built an inexpensive DC Track Controller that you can build without having an Electronics Degree. All of the parts I used were ordered from Amazon.
> 
> Start with ordering an inexpensive Computer Power Supply that is 24 volts and at least 10 amps. They have larger amperage PSU's available if you plan on running multiple trains or motive power consists. Single Motor locomotives like Steam Engines typically draw .5 to 2 amps. Add lights and smoke generators and you could be up to 3 amps per locomotive. Dual motor locomotives like USA Trains and Aristocraft Diesels will require a minimum of 3 to 4 amps per locomotive. At 10 amps I can run two steam locomotives and one USA trains NW2 dual motor with lights and smoke enabled without issue with a 10 amp PSU.
> 
> ...


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## Kevin Nugent (12 mo ago)

yo


Techgunner said:


> If you are reading this post, you are like me in loving traditional DC Track Power operation, but want the ability to control your trains remotely without having to mortgage your home, or spend time converting all of your locomotives (I have over 30) to DCC or Battery. I have built an inexpensive DC Track Controller that you can build without having an Electronics Degree. All of the parts I used were ordered from Amazon.
> 
> Start with ordering an inexpensive Computer Power Supply that is 24 volts and at least 10 amps. They have larger amperage PSU's available if you plan on running multiple trains or motive power consists. Single Motor locomotives like Steam Engines typically draw .5 to 2 amps. Add lights and smoke generators and you could be up to 3 amps per locomotive. Dual motor locomotives like USA Trains and Aristocraft Diesels will require a minimum of 3 to 4 amps per locomotive. At 10 amps I can run two steam locomotives and one USA trains NW2 dual motor with lights and smoke enabled without issue with a 10 amp PSU.
> 
> ...


Thank you for all the details. Can you tell me where you found the 12V 3 way switch?
Thanks
Kevin Nugent
Fair Oaks, CA


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Kevin Nugent said:


> yo
> 
> Thank you for all the details. Can you tell me where you found the 12V 3 way switch?
> Thanks
> ...


Hi Kevin. You can get one at a local auto parts store or Amazon. Here is the link for Amazon.


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## Roseville Rocket (6 mo ago)

@Techgunner very cool setup. I am curious about the stepping for Speed Up and Speed Down commands? I am not an electronics guru so pardon my ignorance, but I don't understand the potentiometer rating of "10K/100K". Does this mean the pot can be switched between 10K and 100K resistance with a jumper? If set to 10K, does that mean one press 10% power, 2 presses 20% power... 10 presses 100% power? If so, does that provide smooth acceleration and operation at slow speeds? Any clarification on how speed control works would be helpful. Thanks for sharing your project.


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