# LGB electric uncoupler



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello All
I have a LGB remote electric uncoupler and I need to know how to wire it. I have a orange LGB turnout switch box which I use to power 4 turnouts on my Christmas layout. I don't want ot get another one of these boxes since they tend to be expensive so instead I got a toggle switch from the shack that is a 3 position momentary on\ off\ on. Question is how can I wire this up to my orange LGB turnout box without burning up the electric uncoupler machine? If someone has a diagram or can direct me to one somewhere that would be great. 
Thanks!
Todd


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

The LGB uncoupler uses AC. That is, it uses half of the AC wave. The orange box is the best way to control the uncouplers. You cannot burn out the switch motors using the orange box. They wire up the same way a switch motor gets wired. The two terminals on the side supply power for the tower lamp. and are wired directly to an AC power source. Usually 12 - 18 volts is sufficient for these lamps. 


You can, however, operate the uncoupler, or any LGB switch motor with DC current. You will need a DPDT momentary toggle switch to do this. You must be careful not to hold the toggle switch in either position for more than about one second, or you will burn the motor out. The orange boxes are all over Ebay, but as you mentioned, they tend to sell for anywhere from $35.00 and up. 



I found this wiring diagram which may be helpful; 




http://www.instructables.com/id/SIMPLE-Polarity-Reversing-switch/step2/Wiring-the-switch/


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## AppleYankee (Jan 3, 2008)

I use this circuit on my LGB switches, I would think something similar would work for your purposes if you substitute the toggle switch for the push button switches I used. 
Diodes and Switches are from Radio Shack 










Jan


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Todd 

The diagram from Jan shows what is inside the LGB "orange box" except the push buttons are replaced by the spring loaded rocker switch. Just remember to provide constant voltage AC at around 16V. I have never seen the uncoupling ramp. If it uses a spring to keep it retracted, then you will only need momentary power of one polarity to raise the uncoupler; releasing the button will allow the spring to pull it back down.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Go here for a nice diagram for cascading control switches and using only 1 pair of diodes. 

http://www.altek.nl/graphtips/EPLsturing.gif 

Look at this site by Martin for a lot more info on using LGB epl driives. 
Also, I use the LGB booster to make the EPL drives 'snappier'.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wasn't the question on the uncoupler, not the turnout motors? 

I'll bet that the uncoupler works on either polarity. It would be nice to know what constant power it can handle. 

Greg


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

The LGB turnout motors and the uncoupler are identical in operation. The only difference between the two is that the uncoupler motor has an extension on one side, which is used to power the mast light. In fact, the uncoupler motor is identical the LGB's signal motors.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

It can be nice to know that a fix for one thing can fix many. 

I assumed Todd knew about EPL drives for turnouts and signals. Perhaps I should have explained it better for all watching. Remember sometimes when you assume........


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So the uncoupler uses a turnout motor? So, can you leave it in the "active" state? Cool. A picture or an explanation earlier sure would have helped for those of us along for the ride. 

Greg


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

You have to hand it to LGB's engineering staff. They certainly made things that seem so difficult to understand so very easy to use. 
And versatile at that.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello 
I hooked the electric uncoupler up to the orange box, the wires are the same colour coded orange and white spots as the electric turnout throws. The uncoupler when activated pops up and stays up, I guess that makes it a permanent uncoupler, to get it back down you need to press the rocker switch the other way. Madman you are correct. Thanks for the link Dan now I have to put my electronics hat on and apply it. 
Todd


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Regular and improved circuits:












The improved circuit gives a stronger pulse when needed. Most of the time the regular circuit works fine.

If used with double hook & loop couplers the LGB 10520 Automatic Manual Uncoupler will also be needed (two electric uncouplers will not fit close enough to work together).

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

This topic will help me figure out how to activate a Remoter Uncoupler with a 17000 or 17100 Track Contact.

The 17100 package calls it a Track Contact for Automatic Coupling. I have not figured out what that means yet unless somehow reversing a train after it has coupled to rolling stock on a track.

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg and others, the turnouts, uncoupler, semaphores and even the track for the barrel unloader use the EPL drive and can be positive pulsed for one direction and negative pulse for the other thus the need for A/C input and diodes for directional throw.

For remote control you can drive these units from the Aristo (black 27mhz transmitter) 55475 (5 units) or the 55474(2 units) and I did this 10 years ago.

Also note that the 1700 track sensor is a reed switch with 2 diodes for controlling the EPL drives.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Also note that the 1700 track sensor is a reed switch with 2 diodes for controlling the EPL drives.


Here is a picture and wiring schematic:


















Jerry


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