# Portable Layout Idea, Your Thoughts Please



## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I am seriously thinking of building a portable Gauge 1 layout for live steam. I found this document on Mr JP Duval's website and it or some variation is what I'd like to do:

 http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/xo18thfa/SPEC_Rseau_Modulaire_indB.pdf

I am thinking of doing the corners in 2 or 3 sections for broader curves and using 2 x 4 foot section to maximize sheets of plywood.

What do you think?

Got this from Mr Duval's website:

http://jpduval.free.fr/ 
Click on "Un dossier de specifications pour la........"


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## MasonsDad (Feb 7, 2008)

Well i know the portable that Dwight and the Gang uses really works out great for thier live steam , so Why not?? i would love to build a portable for our club however my "Free" time is rare at best, I build Bridges and Turntables too and work a FULL time job so as you may have guessed im pretty busy, but Best of luck to you hope it works out fine for you !!


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I was planning on doing that in G scale. Try this site out for Micro layouts. Some great track plans and ideas. http://www.carendt.com/ After seeing that G scale would take up a little more space then I had I decided to try an ON30 layout. See the ON30 section here for what i am working on. Good luck micros are fun to build.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

The one thing I would point out Bob is that small radii on a live steam track somewhat limits what can be run on it. My track (which I just sold btw) has 4' radius curves on the inner loop and 5' radius curves on the outer. While this is fine for most narrow gauge stuff, it isn't enough for some of the larger Aster locos. Even people with larger NG locos - K-27's, K-28's - would tend to shun my track if a larger track was available, despite the fact that these locos will run just fine on 5' radius curves.
I also had no turnouts, but these would also limit what could run through them depending upon size. In the end, it all depends upon what you intend to do with/run on your track.









On a positive note, one really GOOD thing about the design you posted is that the edges rise higher than the railheads. This is really important when packing/unpacking the track to prevent the track from getting snagged by adjacent sections. It was because I didn't include this feature that I never fastened my track to the tabletop and instead transported it separately in boxes. This added to setup/breakdown time. If I ever build another one, I'll design it so two sections fasten together face to face with removable endcaps to protect the track.


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## Rods UP 9000 (Jan 7, 2008)

On our portable live steam layout. the curves are 20' 6" dia on the outside track and each end is made of 8 pieces. 
the straight are 40" x 8' long and have 3 on each side right now, and sometime soon I will add another 8' to each side 
to make the layout about 62' x 24. The layout has 2 main lines with a passing siding for each track on both straight sides 
and a crossover each way between the mainlines. All 12 turnouts are scratch built with a solid 1 piece brass milled frog. 
The track is AMS code 250 narrow gauge. If you look at the live steam pictures from HAGRs show, you can see the layout. 
It take 2 people about 2 hours to set it up. 
Rodney


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

My portable is much more modest, based on Tom Bowdler's design. It fits in the shop or garage and sets up in under 30 minutes.
Great for one man shows or tinkering with a loco, which is no fun on my slightly raised garden line.









Harvey C.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for all the input. As usual, a thousand more ideas. The back yard has room for about 18' x 30'. I have an idea for 6+' and 7-' foot radius. That should do. Our local club is primarily Ruby-based and Accucraft Shay. One of the regulars has an older C16 with blind drivers. 

The summer sun here is brutal on these plastic tie strips. I just don't want to leave anything outside, if it can be avoided.

Dwight: That is a good point about the raised sides. I will pay particular attention to that. 


Many thanks, Bob


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

The summer sun here is brutal on these plastic tie strips. I just don't want to leave anything outside, if it can be avoided.

And they don't hold up on Venus no matter what you do.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 25 Aug 2009 03:56 PM 
The summer sun here is brutal on these plastic tie strips. I just don't want to leave anything outside, if it can be avoided.

And they don't hold up on Venus no matter what you do. 

Well -- It's a dry heat -- at least


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## Havoc (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm going to use the same plans for my layout, Bob. However I go for a few changes: 
- put stifners for the top surface right under the track instead of a single perpendicular one in the middle. 
- change dimensions to get most out of the standard sizes of wood. The sizes JPDuval uses are not common for me. 
- tuning the height of the side and the placement of the foldable legs so the sections can be stacked (and fit together) is something desirable. 
- all curves like those on page 10 drawing D, not based on rectangular baseboards. 
All this won't matter as long as the interfaceing sides are according to his drawing. 

The idea that you build a modular layout that can be used to build even bigger ones is what does it for me. No idea if it will ever happen but I can dream can't I?


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## TonyLou (Sep 3, 2009)

Hi, Bob 

I and my friends are also working on portable layout which is 90 feet long time 22 feet width. You may see some idea in our post on subject "does anyone ... track length". I would be very interest to discuss and share with you. Also, thank you very much for your searching of documents in website. This is so useful. Thank you. 

Have a nice weekend, 
Tony


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## dmunseyjr (Feb 16, 2008)

You might try this idea for the modules:

http://www.doorhollowshortline.com/doorhollow/Door_Hollow_Shortline.html  

Don Munsey Jr

UpperRightCorner of Louisiana USA


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