# replicating soil ballast



## bmwr71 (Jan 30, 2010)

Been enjoying a couple of books on old logging railroading and noticed that many times soil was used as a ballast. Just wondered if anyone knew of a way to make a roadbed that looked like soil ballast but was also relatively stable?

Doug


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

How stable do you want it? A mix of cement and soil would be more immune to erosion than pure soil, but would be less durable than pure cement. All of my thoughts run toward either sand or cement for their fine grain and durability.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Hypertufa?


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Isn't there a bonded sand for putting between pavers? Seems to me I remember it from a couple of years back. You just brushed it into the cracks and then soaked it if I remember correctly. Wouldn't that work for a "dirt" ballast?


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

You are correct Rich, 

I used that bonding sand when I build my patio a few years back. I think it has a small amount of cement in it. I think that would be a good idea for simulating soil ballast.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Ballast in your track as normal, but don't make the trench much wider than the ties. Tamp the ballast and put a thin layer of soil on top. Water regularly. Over time as the track settles the soil will become embedded and the track becomes extremely stable. I have areas where it just looks like the rails are in the soil, and I can't pull up the rails without digging them out or pulling them away from the ties. Takes time though.


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## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

There are some soil mixtures that have come out in the last few years used for pavers and natural stone walks that when wet are 'moldable' and when they dry out become like cement. The nice feature of this is cement based stone paths will get cracks over the years so this soil that softens when wet avoids these visible cracks. 

One thing you might want to look into is decomposed granite. It's being used for dirt walking paths. The stuff sets up like cement after a few days of watering and there's no cement in it. I was going to use it but forget about using your hands to adjust it once it's 'set', I have to still test how well it moves when wet but right now I wonder if a pickaxe would be needed to break this stuff up... I'd however recommend you use it before adding cement, I had a friend who used cement with some crusher fines and it wasn't ideal.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

You cold try Soil and Portland Cement mixed Dry. Look at the results. Add Color if you want to make it look like the surrounding soil. Then once you have your track down and the soil around it Wet it. 
This will activate the Portland Cement and it will solidify some what.


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## old john (Dec 29, 2008)

Home Depot has a paver "sand" that is decomposed granite and sells for about $4.95 for a 50 pound bag, the downside is it's not available in all their stores.


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

The decomposed granit here at both Lowes and Home Depot has a fair amount of large chunks. Maybe half to 3/4 of a marble. I'm using it in a tunnel made with the 12" corrugated plastic pipe. We'll see how it works once I get it finished.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

The D&RGW used soil ballast on much of their narrow gauge routes. So to simulate this, I use the dirt on our property.


To get the dirt, I go to a spot out of view and dig some dirt. Enough to fill a wheel barrow. Then I go through the dirt in the wheel barrow removing rocks and other debris like sticks roots, etc... I also break up dirt clumps. Then I simply shovel some dirt right over the tracks. After applying the dirt onto the track I brush it and move the dirt around to look nice. Then I use a watering can and water anywhere where I poured the dirt. This helps solidify the dirt. Basically the same procedure you would do with stone ballast. The only area that does not get full dirt "ballast" is in between the turnout ties. This is to ensure the turnout rail moves smoothly and does not get caught up by tiny rocks. I make sure the turnouts are placed on level ground and the rail joiners hold things in place. I've placed felt paper (roofing paper) under the turnouts to minimize rain splashing dirt into the turnout points.


Most of the dirt surprisingly stays put. But I still like to apply a new layer of dirt every year. The new dirt layer is mainly to improve the look of the line and to fill in any spots that winter snow may have washed away. 

I probably should add that our soil is extremely rocky so digging is not as easy as I make it sound. And while using natural dirt works great for us, I'm not sure if this will work in every location. Probably a lot has to do with local soil conditions.


But I hope this info is somewhat useful. 



Here is a photo that sort of shows the natural dirt "ballast" (note the lack of fill in between the turnout ties):












Link to larger image 



Probably the best way to see the soil ballast I'm describing is in this cab ride video of our layout:


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt,

Great video. Always a pleasure to visit your railroad in the pine woods.

Doug,

If you want to use dirt for your ballast then use dirt, just as Matt has suggested. Unless your one of those unfortunate people that has perfect fertile soil full of organic matter The resident soil is probably best as it will blend in and look less like an imported ballast, 

Some of the suggestions you have received need some thought before jumping in and committing to them. Keep in mind at all times that track moves and sometimes it moves a lot. If it can't go sideways or lengthwise it will go up. 

Now if you use things for ballast that set solid like cement mixed with anything consider what happens to the ballast when the track moves. Right, little squares and chunks of ballast material all around and on your track. 

Hypertufa! Great material, but not really suited (in my opinion) for any ballast use or even scenic use on the garden rail road. Mixes easy and is easy to apply but is a bit difficult to work with especially if you are in a hot climate. Looks great when fresh but after a season or two in the weather it takes on the look of the "Craters of the Moon" 

I have tried and used all of the materials mentioned in this thread at one time or another and have discarded their use as impractical or completely unsuited for the garden railroad. The only thing that really works well for ballast on the garden railroad is 1/4 inch minus chipped stone. Yes, it is over scale but it stays put in a rain storm and doesn't coat the rails with grit that makes the locomotive look like it is on Pogo Sticks. 

If you want dirt ballast then use dirt ballast, just be prepared to do a lot of MOW work to keep it in place and the rails clean every time you get a sprinkle or the irrigation system runs. 

Good luck with your project.
Rick


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