# Kitchen window to carport, construction of removable railway in a small space



## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

Thought I should share a few pics below and info on how and why I constructed my railway. I took ideas from everywhere and in this story the Australian references to brand and other things may need explaining. Any questions please ask and I will load some more images later as I have maxed out on this one
After thirty five years in 45mm gauge live steam you would think I’d have bigger tracks as time went on, but no, with each house move they are getting smaller. Faced with a move to a small inner city house with virtually no back yard I thought I would have to be a collector of gauge one rather than a runner until we moved again. I had only 8 metres x 12 metres to play with going from the kitchen window wall up to the back fence in the carport. I needed something that could be removable especially in the carport and in case we move again.
As you can see from the images below I couldn't do the usual concrete in for posts so I came up with a different lightweight approach. 
I used an aluminium garden edging called "Linkedge" here that is an L section with slots for easy curving on the horizontal edge and what I call "Fishplates" to join each section on the vertical edge.
This was spaced out with "Merbau" timber strechers just as in normal ladder style construction and to keep it light I placed aluminium screen door security mesh on top then a layer of garden weed cloth then laid the track. I pegged the track down loosely ( I have learnt never to pin it down hard, let it move a bit) and then applied a layer of ballast with some 'plantings' of artificial grass, some rocks to make it look solid. It isn't, water goes straight through.
Then I made some open tables that I just sit the track base on, no bolting down, with even just some basic two leg support in some areas, as when assembled this base construction stays together and doesn't move. These support tables then just sit on the paved surface or in the garden bed just sit on pavers that have proved very stable and easy to adjust if need be. No concreting down of support posts. In the carport section I use cheap carpenters saw horses and I have a quickly removable bridge and a short removable section for access to the house back door.
I now have a removable layout in 2 metre long sections that I can dismantle, change or enlarge by reusing the materials. This has suited my situation and I hope it inspires ideas in others for layout construction.
Russell


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

*More pics*

More images of my railway any queries please ask.
Russell


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Very neat and cool.


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nicely done. Great adaptation of methods.
How did you bend the radius of the angle stock?


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

I bent the aluminium right angle quite easy by hand. With the slots already cut it's very easy to bend. I suspect this product isn't readily available around the world so if you use normal aluminium angle I suggest cutting slots in the horizontal section same as shown in the images.
Russell


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Really nice modeling, thanks for sharing
Dennis


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

ferroequinologist said:


> Thought I should share a few pics below and info on how and why I constructed my railway. I took ideas from everywhere and in this story the Australian references to brand and other things may need explaining. Any questions please ask and I will load some more images later as I have maxed out on this one
> After thirty five years in 45mm gauge live steam you would think I’d have bigger tracks as time went on, but no, with each house move they are getting smaller. Faced with a move to a small inner city house with virtually no back yard I thought I would have to be a collector of gauge one rather than a runner until we moved again. I had only 8 metres x 12 metres to play with going from the kitchen window wall up to the back fence in the carport. I needed something that could be removable especially in the carport and in case we move again.
> As you can see from the images below I couldn't do the usual concrete in for posts so I came up with a different lightweight approach.
> I used an aluminium garden edging called "Linkedge" here that is an L section with slots for easy curving on the horizontal edge and what I call "Fishplates" to join each section on the vertical edge.
> ...


 very nice some really great ideas, Bill


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Very nice work. Looks light. HOw does it stand up in the wind (if you get much)


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Another thought. Do you have a siding under the carport so trains can stay on track when not in use?


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice use of space and material. I think I would paint those orange legs a more neutral color. I really like your landscaping.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

I have had 100 kph winds here in winter (not sure what that is mph) and nothing moved, not even the loose ballast but I don't leave the buildings out except the engine shed that I have a cover for. 
I have one siding under the carport and going to add another soon to store extra trains and add interest to my switching operations by widening the sections there.
And yes I was going to paint the saw horse legs another colour to hide the orange but six years later I still haven't got around to it
Russell


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Russell,

Beautiful work!

Best regards,

Alan


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## FatherMcD (Nov 13, 2015)

Very impressive!! What is the blue coating on the ends of the boards attached to the aluminum sides? And what are you using for the artificial grass? It looks to tall to be grass carpet.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

The blue coating on the timber ends is just left over house paint I used to seal the end grain. Probably didn't need to do it as the tropical Merbau timber is used here for outdoor floor decking and seems to last a huge amount of time exposed to our harsh weather so it will last me out.
The artificial grass is from a local hardware chain that sells it in rolls and this is the expensive one that's got longer grass and varied in height and colour. I waited until they had just a metre (3 foot) left on the wide roll that they usually throw away and got it for a huge discount. Being 3 metres wide it will last me forever if I need to replace any or make a bigger layout. It looks much better than the little square 'short' grass mats I normally see.
Russell


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

That looks really nice! 

I am going to look to use some of your ideas, specifically the artificial grass. It looks wonderful


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

The landscaping edging is widely available in the US, including where else? Amazon
1st pic the same as Russel used except missing the connecting channel on the back. If you want that type you probably will have to import it from AU.
Russell mentioned cutting Vee's in order to bend for an inside bend. The edging comes precut for an inside bend. (Pic 3)
The edging often comes in kits (with really big nails to hold the edging edge.

*But, Here's the magic. Flip the assembly over to create a "deck."* add (rolled) asphalt roofing to cover. Russell's spanner spacing is fine as a deck, the track will provide the support between.
This approach if you would rather not go to the work of adding screen, cloth and ballast. Of course you could just skip the roofing and use the frame naked.

The second brilliant thing about Russell's idea is that it's a lot less work than the other great method of deck building, using steel stud channel.

Thank's Russell you made my next layout far easier to build (instead of steel studs) which of course means it's much more likely to get build and sooner rather than latter.    


Oh, for legs? Use Tee posts with a "Man Saver" Tee Post pounder, 98E BASIC T POST DRIVER for small Tee posts at $450 would more than work. https://www.rohrermfg.com/
A double post every 3-4 single posts for a single track, or double Tee posts all round for double track deck. ($450 sounds like a lot but divide it by 100 or more Tee posts or $4.50/pst.) You could always pound the Tee posts the old fashion way with a two handle "Post Pounder" if you're a glutton for punishing yourself. 

I luv it. Thanks, Russell !


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Love the landscaping. Subtle but effective.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

Thanks Chris Scott for finding suitable garden edging over there as it's always a lot easier than making your own out of Aluminium angle.
Glad everyone likes the attempt at some scenery as Steamermeister says "it's subtle but effective". I found by doing ballast and some fake grass with a few rocks makes even the narrowest part look more realistic for my trains to roll by. My next project is to make the depot area better with a building as having an engine shed, coaling tower and water tank on the steaming up area has transformed the look of the layout on that side so a depot building and water tank will improve the scenic look on this side but I need to keep all buildings narrow to fit the space, not easy in 1:20 scale. I have an old POLA depot that I will kitbash into something that should be narrow enough so I'll post pics when it's done.

For those who may have not seen the video of my track go to 'live steam' section here in MLS and view Graham25 recent post of a few weeks ago titled "Easter Monday steam-up ". This video of a steam up with a group of friend's trains of all scales and types shows the scenery, construction and overall view better than the close up still shots.
Russell


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## dslinick (Nov 7, 2018)

Best solutiion to a lightweight, easy to install RR that I have seen. There is indeed a U.S. product called Dimex Easyflex, that is close to Linkedge.I have a couple of ideas for a base. I plan to go no higher than 24" above ground, so there are some choices, like "Bison Versadjust", sold as pedestals to support decks , etc. No digging. Thanks for the inspiration.


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## dslinick (Nov 7, 2018)

Getting inspired! How did you set up bending the stuff to get an accurate radius? For example, the Aster BR-5MT that I am working on has a minimum 2 meter turn radius. I can use "chord" and "rise" to calculate radius and build a template. Perhaps you found a simpler way?


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

Hi dslinick,
The aluminium sides with their slots is easy to bend by hand so no problem there and to get the radius I need I first made a track template or former 4 ' long out of 1/4" mdf board. 
Nothing exacting here I just placed the board on the paved area outside and using a screwdriver jammed into place as a pivot, using a long string to a pencil to mark out the required 10' radius. I marked the track inside edges at 40-43 mm apart then cut this out with a jigsaw ( see pic) and I place it between the rails to obtain even curvature just like I did when I had HO trains.
This template was handy as guide to make my first sections of track base by bending the inner and outer aluminium edges to the width required and cut the cross battens. I lay the track loosely down as I go, using the track template between the rails, making each section.
Sometimes I found I needed to 'adjust' the track base radius and that was easy by unscrewing the outer edge, leaving the inner edge with the cross battens attached, re-curve and re-attach the outer edge. The wide cross battens can be drilled many times to change radius.
A couple of things to watch are don't make the sections too narrow, leave room for track adjustment and to cater for loco/carriage overhang on the curves and some scenic effects.
When making a section to go from one track to two or more it has to be done in place to match each mating piece, can be tricky but the aluminium edge bends ( and re bends) easy. 
For wide sections of 2 to 4 tracks place the side battens closer together.
Hop this helps as I don't do exact calculations for radius but use the template and also pre-curved track using my two rail bender as guide in making each section. 
Russell


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## dslinick (Nov 7, 2018)

ferroequinologist said:


> Hi dslinick,
> The aluminium sides with their slots is easy to bend by hand so no problem there and to get the radius I need I first made a track template or former 4 ' long out of 1/4" mdf board.
> Nothing exacting here I just placed the board on the paved area outside and using a screwdriver jammed into place as a pivot, using a long string to a pencil to mark out the required 10' radius. I marked the track inside edges at 40-43 mm apart then cut this out with a jigsaw ( see pic) and I place it between the rails to obtain even curvature just like I did when I had HO trains.
> This template was handy as guide to make my first sections of track base by bending the inner and outer aluminium edges to the width required and cut the cross battens. I lay the track loosely down as I go, using the track template between the rails, making each section.
> ...


Thanks. I appreciate the response. Clever solution.


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## AuSteam (Jul 26, 2019)

Some great ideas here.
Thanks for sharing Russell !


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