# Quarterer and gear puller for LS?



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I'd like to add a quarterer, gear puller and gear press to my work bench. Any suggestions and or home built examples would be greatly appreciated. 

I have seen the stuff offered by NWSL are there other commercial offerings?

Regards,
Michael


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Michael Glavin on 03 Jan 2010 10:52 AM 
I'd like to add a quarterer, gear puller and gear press to my work bench. Any suggestions and or home built examples would be greatly appreciated. 

I have seen the stuff offered by NWSL are there other commercial offerings?

Regards,
Michael



A friend of mine has a zillion little homemade gear pullers. He uses short lengths of schedule 40 steel pipe, cuts a side off to form a "C" shape, and taps the center for the pusher screw. Makes them when he need them in the size for the job.

Bob


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

gear puller 
I have a wheel/gear puller made for Lionel trains. As their wheels are so overscale, it works on smaller LS wheels and most gears!


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Thanks for the info. I'm consideriing making my own pullers and presssing fixtures, but the stuff from NWSL looks good. 

Michael


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

This is the little gear puller I was talking about:

http://www.micromark.com/MINIATURE-...,8011.html

A friend of mine makes these as he needs them from schedule 40 pipe or turned from solid.


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## Lawrence Wallace (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a modified c- clamp to pull wheels and some gears. I use 3" c-clamps. I have three different clamps I use for different size axles.


































Removing pushing axle back in 


You can modify the c-clamp end to suit your purpose.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

NICE tip Yogi! 

Glad to hear from you. 

Greg


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Yogi and Bob,

Both excellent suggestions, thank you. That said I believe that these types of pullers are best suited for solid wheels and If one wants something that will support the wheel/gear for fear of bending same (such as a plastic spoked main typical of LGB's Mogul) I'd need a flat adapter plate slotted, sized for the axle/shaft in play and in the case of the Mogul main; a recess to accomadate the step on the back side of the main. This would provide for a stable fully supported pressing on/off of the spoked
main and or a thin gear too. See my drawing below.












Michael


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Michael, 
Instead of using pipe and ending up with a curved puller like the one from MicroMark, you could use square or rectangular tubing and get something like that shown in your drawing. You'd have to find some with a wall thickness that was thick enough to tap for the screw, or solder, braze or weld on a nut. Put a slot in one wall from one end for the axle. Your backing plate with the hub recess could just slide in when needed. 

The quarterer is tougher. What kind of machine tools do you have access to?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually, you only need to support the wheel right near the axle, that is where the force and friction is concentrated. 

That's what I liked about Yogi's solution, easy to make, and gets in close to the axle, right where you need the force. 

Supporting anything further out actually does nothing. 

Regards, Greg


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Jim, 

Exactly what I was thinking, rectangular aluminum tubing or maybe I'll machine it from aluminum with a bushed threaded insert and backing plates machined for each type of wheel or as required. 

I have mills, lathes and the like in my shop. The quarter offered by NWSL is nice but expensive. I'm drawing up a quaterer now. 

Regards. 
Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Would love to have a G scale quarterer... if you want to make two and sell one let me know! 

Regards, Greg


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Greg, 

I concurr with your thoughts, but it needs to be a precision fit as any missalignment will likely cause issue, especially true of pressing metal axle shafts through plastic spoked hubs I suspect. If the parts are not perpindicular to one another we introduce wobble. Thus my reasoning to provide a stable base, sized to the specific axle hub. Anytjhing I can design into my puiller to mitigate the possiblilty of anything less than exact alignment will prevent dissapointment later. 

I may have to experiment with the quarterer design, i.e., build it and see how it works. 

I need to put a LGB Mogul back together that took a nose dive and damaged the front mains as in wobble, thus my interest in the quarterer. Also rebuilding a couple of LGB Alcos that have completeley worn out the mains and the motor blocks were the axles are supported (these should be assembled with bushings/bearings?). And not to mention a couple of 0-4-0's that need some gear love. 

Michael


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Bob, Yogi, great idea. 

Here's what I use (before I used to hammer them out on the vice). Pictured flange tool is pointed so if it slips off on a small axle, just stick a small flat piece of steel or even a penny between the point and the axle and then twist. You get a lot of torque with the flair tool, and while you're at it, you can turn out some flanged wheels and then add centers later. The bottom 2 beginnings of wheels were created with the flair, the upper left is a closet door puller with the side you can't see filled with solder and nickels and the upper right "wheel" is a 1" copper pipe. The flange is made from a shop pressed piece of tube and inside is mixture of solder and quarters


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

oh, btw, this is the better flair tool as the 2 halves can be completely separated to allow larger diameter wheels you wish to pull slip over the holes. Some flair tools do not separate, only widen.


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