# Idea for a New "Active," Economical Track Cleaner



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The LGB track cleaning engine does a relatively good job, but the cost to purchase and operate puts it out of the reach, or desire, for many.

But what if we could make our own, including our own track cleaning disks, for very reasonable cost?

My idea is to take an unused Bachmann Big Hauler and pull the motor assembly/first axle out. This is contained in a "subassembly."










The wheels would be removed and "T-nuts" pressed on/screwed in/CA'ed in place, with the "knives" facing outwards.










The disks are made of pumice stone. A hole saw, is used to cut a disk with a hole in the center. The center hole in the disk (from the arbor) matches the size of the T-nut center.

The pumice stone is cut into slices ~1/4" wide and the disks are "drilled" from the slices.

One could make a lot of disks at under $1 each with these stones and there are a variety available:









http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Grill-Br...Domain_0&var=520348473041&hash=item3391c34c1d

The disks then simply press onto the T-nuts and a washer/screw secure them. As the screw/washer tightens, it presses the "knives" into the disks to make the necessary holes to secure the disk from spinning freely under pressure. 

This would be "blind" driver so it would be very close to the adjoining axle. Track power or a battery could drive the motor.

I'm thinking a wheeled/motorized pole sander where one would push this along the track and let the pumice wheels do the work.

BTW, I do have a b-b-q pumice stone, and have tried to use it to clean the track. It does better than the drywall sander with far less pressure. 

If someone has one of those "drag along" track cleaners that use a block with a mounted scotch-brite pad or the LGB cleaning block, and is unsatisfied with its operation, you may want to try replacing the block with a pumice stone cut to size, and weight so as not to be too abrasive.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Rube is in the building....
Dangerous, methinks what keeps the pumice from flying apart?

When we mount grinding wheels we use flanges on either side with new paper pads so nothing pokes the brittle stone.... 

There are abrasive wheels that can be purchased ... say impregnated rubber wheels that polish as they clean. Every scratch becomes a dirt magnet, why not remove scratches instead of making more?
In the end you make more work... more often.
I'll pass.
John


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

So then the first order of business would be to make a disk and chuck it up in a T-nut on the drill and see if it crumbles/shatters when it contacts the track and the joints.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

OK..., 

I took an end slice off of b-b-q block wit ha hack saw, and cut a disk with a 1-1/2" hole saw. You get plenty of sparks and one disk wore out the hole saw bit, so a carbide or diamond hole saw would be required.

It was no problem pressing the T-nut onto the disk in the vice. But a bit too much pressure and the disk cracked and broke into pieces.

So for this to work, a disk would have to be cut then soaked with a resin or such to serve as a binder.

Maybe I'll just try cutting off a thin slice from the block and just sticking it to the dry wall sander car with some double sided tape and compare it to the drywall 220 grit pads that usually occupy that car.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Todd

My concern is the scratches the pumice will add. My experience is that scratches collect dirt and ultimately add to problems. In my opinion, the degree of pressure on the pumice will not really matter. The only way to know for sure is to do some tests.

Over the years, I have used various grades of abrasive paper they all added scratches that I didn't like. Even the maroon Scotch pad, which I thought too abrasive. That is why I use the green pad. 

I have an LGB track cleaning engine. It does a great job, but it is more abrasive than I like. I only use it if I haven't run for a month or more. 

Chuck

Note added, occasionally through inattention, my LGB track cleaning engine has ground divots in the track.

It is a good idea. Just try to find a less abrasive wheel. My suggestion would be to try to figure out how to attach strips of a green pad to a wheel. That might work.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Todd;

I realize this idea is not powered, but thought I would suggest it anyway. Way back when, John Allen glued Masonite with the rough side down to nail heads. These Masonite strips did have an end taper to help reduce snagging. He then slipped the nails through holes drilled into the frames of HO boxcars. The cars were allowed to circulate, via regular shipping orders, all over the Gorre & Daphetid Railroad. They kept the railheads pretty shiny, yet were only mildly abrasive.

To date, I don't know whether anyone has tried anything like this on #1 gauge track. I would suppose the Masonite may need some tire weights or fishing sinkers glued to the smooth side to give it enough "oomph." The pads are kept in place via the nails through the floor of the boxcar, yet they still have the ability to "float" over irregularities along the track.

Just my $0.02,
David Meashey


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