# Need suggestions with battery/train engineer problem



## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

Good day,

Hope someone has come across this and can make some suggestions for us to try. Setup a small loop in the front garden, about 70 ft of track. Set in some gravel and wanted to run a Bachmann 10 wheeler that has a train engineer in the tender with a battery setup of 2 packs of NI MH 9.6v 2200mAh onboard.
We had to change batteries in the throttle so then went through the sync process. The engine started moving but after about a foot it stops and we could hear a clicking coming from the TE receiver.

After about 15-20 seconds we can get it to start again, and another foot and the click/engine stops....it seems as though it's resetting itself??? but I'm not sure what to check to troubleshoot.

Hopefully some of you have come across this problem and can offer suggestions for us to try please?

michael


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## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

Something to add. We brought the engine inside and put it on blocks and started it....it's running well and responds to higher and slower speeds...so it's just stopping when on the track...

So I'm guessing it has something to do with the load placed on it when it's on the track??


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## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

Another note; when the engine is running blocked up, if we put just a small amount of pressure on the drivers by sliding a finger, it stops and the receiver clicks. 

Just trying to add what we find out as we troubleshoot.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Excessive current draw by the motor (bad motor, partial short, binding) OR very low batteries, cannot put out enough current under load. 

Test battery voltage not running and then on rollers and then on track trying to move.. that will tell a lot. 

Try running loco on DC and measure current. 

That will most likely give enough data to determine root cause. 

Greg


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## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Greg; was talking on LSC, might have a bad battery pack; have two on charge now to make sure they're fully charged. Will see what happens when they get charged up full.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Just FYI, usually "full charge" is determined by final voltage... a defective pack CAN charge to full voltage but not put out the power to run the train... that's why you need to measure battery voltage open circuit and also under load... just like how they test car batteries. 

Best luck 

Greg


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## izzy0855 (Sep 30, 2008)

Hi Michael, 

We had this happen to one of our old versions of Aristo's TE, the TE needs to see 12 Volts or higher to supply sufficient current to your engine to operate. One or both or your 9.6V batteries are dead, that's why your hearing the clicking sound. For a test, charge your 14.4V cordless drill battery pack and wire it to the TE and you'll have a full throttle logo. 

Rick Isard 
Cordless Renovations, LLC


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## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By izzy0855 on 14 May 2011 09:41 PM 
Hi Michael, 

We had this happen to one of our old versions of Aristo's TE, the TE needs to see 12 Volts or higher to supply sufficient current to your engine to operate. One or both or your 9.6V batteries are dead, that's why your hearing the clicking sound. For a test, charge your 14.4V cordless drill battery pack and wire it to the TE and you'll have a full throttle logo. 

Rick Isard 
Cordless Renovations, LLC 
Rick, if that does work, it's going to be a little difficult to get a cordless drill battery packed into a ten wheeler tender...lol


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## izzy0855 (Sep 30, 2008)

Michael, 

This test is only for a couple seconds, you can place the battery next to the engine on your bench top and touch the leads to battery input and see if your loco runs on direct current. That way you'll know if you have a dead 9.6V battery that needs to be replaced. 

Rick Isard 
Cordless Renovations, LLC


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## Michael Tollett (Jan 3, 2008)

gotcha. thanks.


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

You did not mention if the batteries are wired in series or parallel? They need to be wired in series to get enough voltage to the TE so it will work properly. They usually start having problems below 12 volts.

Regards,
Mark
*http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/*


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## Robbie Hanson (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Michael Tollett on 16 May 2011 07:29 AM 

Rick, if that does work, it's going to be a little difficult to get a cordless drill battery packed into a ten wheeler tender...lol




I've done it 










You didn't say it had to be the same tender that the TE was in!

(I have a first gen trackside TE mounted in the first tender, and now have a 14.5v 5000maH battery in the extended coal load)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That's why I go track power! 

(ha ha, I just had to repay the favor for all the times people say to go battery on track power threads) 

Greg


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## izzy0855 (Sep 30, 2008)

No, just wherever you can find room. A lot of enthusiasts will use an 18V Milwaukee battery-pack and set it in a boxcar or hide it in a gondola, but either way...your running! This is a quick and easy way that's inexpensive to start battery power operations. 

Rick Isard 
Cordless Renovations, LLC


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