# Need Plastic tube



## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Lately, my Aristocraft axle sets have developed cracks in the walls of the plastic tubing used to connect the short axle/wheel combinations. One completly fell apart. So I trotted of to FHS (favorite hobby shops), looking for replacement tubes. Aristocraft does NOT list them in the parts lists for their equipment.

So far (three tries) I've found that tubes come in only two sizes: too large and too small. The shafts are 6.5 mm in diameter. I'd need at least two pieces 1.5 inches long. Probably should have about a dozen, since a lot of my Aristo cars are about the same age as the work caboose these wheels fell off of.

The tubing should not be flexible, and I don't care too much about the exterior diameter. Soda straws are also (so far) too big or too small. Next I'm going to look at all those dried up ballpoint pens I've been saving for "just the right project."


Any thoughts? The interior diameter seems to be a very odd size (what's new?). How much trouble would it have been to design those axles .5 mm smaller?


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

did you have a look at these sets of felt tip colours for schoolchildren?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Solid plastic rod drilled for your wheels' axles. 
John


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Dick, 

I'm repairing several Aristo tenders, and have to replace the axle half couplers as well. The correct ID or inside diameter for the plastic axle couple is 6mm as the metal axles are approximately 5.85mm or there about. I decided to machine my own out of Derlin plastic or perhaps Teflon as I have both available. After the couplers are fabricated and you reassemble the axle sets its paramount that you check and adjust the back to back wheel spacing; I suspect there will be some variance with all. So some pushing and pulling maybe in order to obtain the proper wheel spacing. 

I’m under the weather but may feel well enough to have a go at turning a couple of the axle couplers this weekend; I’ll post my results ASAP. 

Its plausible you maybe able to locate some Nylon bushings or something similar at your local hardware store that will fit the need in the nuts-bolts section. Most real hardware stores have assortments of bushings, spacers stand-offs in aluminum, bronze, Nylon and the like.

6mm = 2.36" so a 1/4" or .250 in Nylon spacer or stand-off might be doable with a little caressing.

Michael


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

_*Glad you found something to repair them... Your Tender we notice that we just finished has all four axles cracked..*_

_* Will call you so i can drop off these two Eng. and the one tender. *_

_*Get well guy... Santa is comming. 
*_









*That's if he can get this one trained.... ho ho ho..... *


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Noel, 

Yeah, I recall you mentioning the tender wheels were a wobbling on that one too. I have two here, one is for the kids ARSTO Xmas 0-4-0 w/slopeback tender (been dormant for several years) that one of my daughters claimed for her tree, so I'm under the gun on that won..... Testing the sound and chuff sensor I noted the original plastic axle couplers failed on yet another! That makes three tenders I need to fix with like problems. 

Michael


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## Lawrence Wallace (Jan 2, 2008)

I bought the white plastic water tubing at Loews in the plumbing section.

Sorry I can't remember the size. Take a axle with you when you check-out the tubing.


You have to remove some of the material on for clearance on some trucks for screw heads on couplers, etc..

The tubing is a nice tight fit and has been in use since 2004 and I have had no problems.


By inserting the axle ends in till nearly touching there is no wobble notice in the wheels. 


I hope this helps with your problem.


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Hmmmmmmm, Wonder if this ideal will work with the older style Heavyweight car wheels ?

I will have to take a look.

Thank you.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd just change out the wheel sets for the AC metal wheel and axles. Simple and they work. All of mine have been converted. Later RJD


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Yogi, 

Looks like a simple, inexpensive and readily available fix for the masses... Is the "plastic water tubing" flexible and off a roll or more like PVC pipe? I have a roll of 1/4" tubing for air/water which looks very much like your pictures, but its wall thickness is minimal and it looks like you machined yours down somewhat, anyhow the inside I.D. is a tad to small and I forcing the axles on doesn't work. I'll have to make a run to Lowes... 

In the mean time I found some nylon stand-offs in my junk box that are 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" long, I'm going see what it takes to make these work. 

Michael


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I used 3/8”x3/16”x1” nylon stand-offs available from my local Ace hardware store about .25 cents each if I recall. A 15/64” or .230” drill bit was used to increase the inside diameter hole, I went in or peck drilled about .480 deep on either side, this provided a shouldered stop, worked great.

I drilled the nylon coupler with a Sherline lathe, I suspect if you have to do this freehand you may want to experiment as it won’t be as precise, thus a smaller drill bit maybe in order.

The axles are serrated or kinda like a hose barb; I used Super Glue and pushed them into my couplers, set the back to back and called it good. Installed the wheel sets, did a test ride and all is well. 

Michael


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## Lawrence Wallace (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael,

It is ridged heavy wall water tubing.


The outside diameter is 3/8 " and inside diameter is 7/32" and cut them 1" long. In the center I turned down a 3/8"wide section 1/16" deep for clearance on some trucks and couplers.


The problem of clearance is usually where the end of the coupler housing screws onto the truck. 


I also rolled up a little ball of paper and put it in between axle ends in case the axles moved and causing a short if they should touch.


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