# Connectivity on small g-scale loop



## CaseyJones260 (May 7, 2012)

Hey guys! New to the site, so thanks for having me!! Had a couple of questions about ways to get better connectivity and smoother running on my railroad. I've got a small loop in my folks' backyard that is mostly on concrete but dips into the dirt to form a small dog-leg. The track has dead spots in both sections, concrete and dirt, and is causing my engines to sputter. However, after a few runs the frequency of those sputters decrease. Looking for recommendations on enhancing connectivity. I clean my rails with a swiffer broom and scotch brite pads, and am currently converting all my rolling stock to metal wheels. I've seen multiple solutions to this problem on the website but a cost-effective and reliable solution would be much appreciated. If anybody has any ideas they could throw my way I'd greatly appreciate it. No fun seeing your Mogul sputtering around the track. Thank you!!!


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Is it connectivity--the connection between piece sof track--or is it dirty track?

Are you using sectional track? What brand? What kind of joiners?

The best way to make sure you have good connectivity is to either solder jumper wires across the track section or use track clamps. Generally, it's a good idea to put a little bit of anti-corrosion paste in the joiners. That will make a significant difference. You can use anti-sieze compound from the auto parts store. Clamps can get expensive. Aristocraft's are the cheapest, Train Li makes a good alternative which I like a lot, and split-jaw are probably the best overall.

Track can get dirty and it can be a big or a small problem depending on where you live. One easy solution would be to tow a track cleaner around as you run. Aristocraft makes a decent inexpensive track cleaner. You also might want to clean the wheels. I somti4ms spray contact cleaner on them as they run--hold them in place, spray the wheels, and then run the loco over a paper towel.


By now someone has probably made a post telling you to convert your loco to run on batteries. That might be a good alternative if you live in a place where dirty track is a big problem. On our layout it hasn't been a big deal 
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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

How big is the loop and what kind of power pack is it? Could be something as simple as dirty or loose joiners, but if its 200 feet of track being run off one Bachmann starter pack thats a very different issue ;-)


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Casey,
since you only have dead spots and nor problems all over (assuming that is what you did mean) then I would say that you need to solder jumpers across the track joints. If you have a good high wattage soldering iron then that would be the cheapest solution and, I think, the best.
Bob


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a how to on my web site for making a track cleaning car and a how to install jumpers on the track....








When painted it's hard to see which car has the cleaning block/pad (it's the car with the tractor.)
http://4largescale.com/trains/P7.htm 








When they are done you can hardly see the soldered jumper wires on the rail joints I use a method that a professional model railroad builder had posted on one of the lists it is easy and it works...
http://4largescale.com/trains/P20.htm


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The most cost-effective way on brass track is just like Dean has, but I recommend leaving some slack in the wire, since expansion and contraction could fracture the solder joint. Just a little slack. 

Greg


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

The wires at the joints are solid house type 12 gauge wire, 8" to 10" long folded and buried underneath in the ballast....


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Good advice all around. I'd add this: connect your power pack to the track at two locations about halfway around the circle apart. Then you've got power from two directions. Then make sure your rail is clean, I use scotchbrite pads too! Make sure the rail joints (whatever they're made of) are tight and clean. it sounds like only one or two joints are bad. If you're using one foot long sections, you can solder two or three of them together. Then join those sections together with clamps or wire jumpers. And lastly, make sure your wheels and power pick up shoes are clean. You could put a few drops of Dexron III automatic transmission fluid on the rail. That seems to almost completely eliminate slowing/stalling. 

Running a track cleaning car is always a good idea. I make them from cabooses, as I always run a caboose!


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I have about about 500 feet of track with only 1 pair of power wires, most of the track has been been down for 10 or 11 years in that time the only modification that I have done was to install jumper wires around all the switches that's because Aristo switches have very small wires (all of which over the years I've replaced with larger wires)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually if you connect the power supply to only one location and it is a loop, you still have power from two directions. With a second set of feeders, there's just fewer rail joints to traverse in certain areas, on average, fewer points of failure. 

This is actually an important point, because in a powered loop, you need to find TWO bad joiners to have a power interruption, one in each "direction" back to the feeders.

Many people have all the track in one continuous block, and then don't realize when one "direction" has gone bad... when the SECOND "direction" goes bad, you have SEVERAL defective connections, and now, your track is indeed in bad shape.

There's a very simple way to handle this, which I use. I insulate blocks of track and feed them individually. One bad connection is then immediately obvious and easy to locate.

Greg


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