# Best adhesive for buildings?



## jaycosnett (Jan 4, 2008)

Several years ago I assembled a Piko water tower using the glue included with the kit. After a few years outside, much of the glue has come undone.

Now, I'm wanting to re-glue the lose parts as well as assemble some other plastic building kits, so I'm looking for advice as to what adhesive to use that will bond plastic to plastic and stand up to the weather (at least better than the included adhesive did, if possible).

Thanks!

Jay


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

MEK will weld most plastics. 
E6000 is another good glue. 

John


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

I agree with John- MEK. I use it all the time. It welds (melts) plastic parts together- forever! You will want to clean off all the old glue before using MEK. It's real watery. I use a small syringe bottle to apply it. You can find MEK at Home Depot in the paint department. Hope this helps. 


-Kevin.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I like to run a bead of Crafter/Plumbers/Marine Goop along the inside seams. This provides hold and flexibility. Don't us it on thin plastic sheeting or you will see the distortion in the surface texture.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Jay, I have one of those water towers> It was the first kit I ever built, using the glue supplied by Piko. Still going strong, although my tower sits inside the house all day. 

I'm not sure if MEK will work. I think the material some kits and rolling stock are made of, may not be styrene. But don't quote me. Also, I can't speak for the Goop recommended by Todd, as I don't use the stuff. I guess you could try it and see what happens. 

About MEK: if you live anywhere in Southern California near LA or even in Hawaii, you'll no longer find MEK at Home Depot or anywhere else, unless the store owner is a renegade. Methyl ethyl keytone is outlawed around LA, but what's "ironic" (as they say), is that the actual chemical, which is used in solvent cements such as some versions of Weld-On, is still manufactured in LA because it has been grandfathered in by the local EPA. Go figure.


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## Gary Woolard (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin wrote -
"You will want to clean off all the old glue before using MEK."

Any suggestions on the best way to do that?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

If it's a surface glue that relies on stickiness vs melting, I'd try Acetone and mebbe a chiesel.... 

OR 

Elbow grease and a sanding block with a medium wet n dry sandpaper. The cloth backing is stronger and you can wash out the waste. 

If the MEK doesn't faze it, then I'd go to the E6000 (a sticky type) comes in a fist size tube. 
The above is for plastic, for wood I like TiteBond III and a pin nailer. 

John


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

I need to do some regluing also. Since I live in So Cal, MEK is out so I am going to try E-600. Thanks John.

Todd, do you put the bead of Goop adhesive after the building has been glued back together? 

Is there something from TAP Plastics that would work with Piko and Pola Buildings?

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You might still be able to get a MEK equivalent. 
I've had good luck with Ambroid ProWeld, it contains another Ca carcinogenic .... methylene chloride. 

I used it on my water car bash. 
It says it welds:Styrene, Butyrate, ABS and Acrylic (Lucite or Plexiglas). 
It's water thin and is applied with a small brush and capillary action. Hold 10 seconds. 

I think I got it at a generic hobby shop .... don't breathe the fumes.









John


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Sometimes I'll use CA for the quick bond and run the bead along the seams afterwards. I'm doing a POLA structure now and the roof is very warped so that I have to use the Goop to glue (and weight) down both roof pieces to one side of the building, then after it dries, I can try to draw the two roof pieces together along the other side and do the same. I think the flexability of the Goop will let me do this.


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Gary- Once again, I pretty much agree with what John said about removing the old glue. I usually scrape it off with a razor (be careful not to scrape into the plastic), but I'm sure acetone or something like that would work as well. 


-Kevin.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 02 Jun 2013 08:15 PM 
Sometimes I'll use CA for the quick bond and run the bead along the seams afterwards. I'm doing a POLA structure now and the roof is very warped so that I have to use the Goop to glue (and weight) down both roof pieces to one side of the building, then after it dries, I can try to draw the two roof pieces together along the other side and do the same. I think the flexability of the Goop will let me do this.


Seems like this idea is working and this morning I was able to draw the other sides together, and glued them to the side wall with a bag of rocks on top for weight and a clamp to keep the sides from spreading too far. Once this dries, I'll run a bead along the inner roof/walls interface and use a 90 degree "L" piece of Plastruct stuffed with Goop for a new top cap.


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## jaycosnett (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks for all the great info! Couldn't find MEK at my local hardware store, but they had E6000 so I'll give that a try.


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