# New RCS # BASIC-3 ESC now available.



## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

This is surely the best bit of R/C kit I have ever come across.










They are made in the UK by Deltang R/C. Their part # is Rx65-2

Some features:
Moderate pricing. A$79 = roughly US$69. Plus A$ 5 postage.
Super small size. 32 mm x 14 mm x 8 mm. (1 1/4" x 9/16" x 5/8")
Ideal for smaller Large Scale locos such as Bachmann Thomas and Friends, Li'l Big Hauler and Annie 4-6-0 etc.
Combined DSM2 Rx /ESC
Rated 3 amps continuous.
3 - 18 volts.
Centre OFF control, or Low OFF control.
2 x lighting outputs 2 x sound triggers.
Infinitely programmable.
Read all about it here:
http://www.rcs-rc.com/pages/battery-r/c/basic-3
6 amp model coming soon.


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Tony, 

Newbie here. Is this a receiver AND ESC combined? 

I'm looking at getting into G scale, but I currently have O scale and have been trying to find if there's a RC/battery system that will fit in most O scale engines. This item appears to fill the bill. 

I want go get an Annie sometime next year as my 1st G scale engine. 

Almost forgot...is there a seller in the US?

Bob


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bob. 

Yes. It is a combined RX and ESC. You can see the antenna wire in the pic above. 
Works with any DSM2 compatible TX including Spektrum, Orange and my new hand helds. 
Once the R/C systems were too big for 0 Scale. Now the only consideration is were to put the battery pack(s). 
The only real limitation is the maximum voltage allowed. 18 real volts. That means 14.8 volts nominal is about the safe maximum. 
No dealers in the USA yet.


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Thanks Tony! 

Practically all modern O scale engines have 12 volt DC motors in them (still can't figure out why they're still using AC on the rails) so 14.8 volts is plenty. 

That brings up another question...most battery packs I see are 7.4 or 11.1 volt packs, which most say is plenty for these 12 volt motors. How so? I guess I don't understand the relationship input voltage has on a 12 volt DC motor, I would think anything other than 12 volt input would not give the optimum result. 

Any battery that would give me 1 hour worth of run time would work for me. I doubt any of the motors in my engines pull more than 1-1.5 amps, so it shouldn't take more than 1400 Mah battery to get ah hours worth of run time, correct? 

I've run a couple of my engines (without anything but the 12 volt DC motor in them) using an old Troller Transamp 1 (1 amp) transformer and had no problems with the circuit breaker tripping. As much as I like some of the sounds I'm getting now, about the only thing I'd really want is a constant headlight circuit and maybe marker lights (don't use smoke).


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bob. 

Your math are about right. 
The voltage determines what the top speed will be. Some people like to run their trains fast. Others not so fast. The best way of determining what battery voltage is best for your purposes is to measure the voltage on the rails when the top speed is at about what suits you. Then add 1 volt for overhead system losses. 
1400 mah will indeed give a loco that draws around 1 - 1.5 amps at least a 1 hour run time. Increase the mah to increase the run time. 
The voltages you quote indicate you are looking at Li-Ion or Li-Po batteries. I cannot offer any advice as to what would be the best type. However the # BASIC-3 does have a low battery voltage warning sensor. 
Personally I still prefer NiCd or at a pinch, NiMh. They do take up more space than other chemistries. 

The directional lighting outputs on the # BASIC-3 can power 1 x bright LED per output. You must use a suitable dropping resistor, 470r is about right, to protect the output. If you wish to use directional marker lamps and/or incandescent bulbs you will have to fit inversion transistors that can handle a greater load.


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Thanks again Tony! 

Bob


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Back again Tony,


So, if I was going to install a RC unit in an O scale steamer (with 12vdc motor) I would need the following:

TX-20 transmitter

RX65-2 Receiver/ESC

NiCd TS8 Battery (9.6vdc, 2500mah)

BACH-5-12c Charger


Is any of this available in the US or just parts of the list?

Anything I missed (plugs, wiring harness, switches)?

I haven't thought of adding sound yet, but it is a possibility.

I would also like to add a headlight and backup light, possibly using LEDs from Evans Designs:

EVANS DESIGNS UNIVERSAL LED 

Thanks,
Bob

Oops, the Universal LED says it's for transformer power only, but they have LEDs for battery ops as well.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Seaboard Air Line Fan on 04 Jan 2014 07:21 PM 
Back again Tony,


So, if I was going to install a RC unit in an O scale steamer (with 12vdc motor) I would need the following:

TX-20 transmitter

RX65-2 Receiver/ESC

NiCd TS8 Battery (9.6vdc, 2500mah)

BACH-5-12c Charger


Is any of this available in the US or just parts of the list?

Anything I missed (plugs, wiring harness, switches)?

I haven't thought of adding sound yet, but it is a possibility.

I would also like to add a headlight and backup light, possibly using LEDs from Evans Designs:

EVANS DESIGNS UNIVERSAL LED 

Thanks,
Bob

Oops, the Universal LED says it's for transformer power only, but they have LEDs for battery ops as well.

Hello Bob.

Answers one at a time in Blue.

Yes 1 x TX20

[/b]*Yes 1 x BASIC-3 RX/ESC*

Which battery is best depends on what will fit. The 9.6 volt NiCd TS-8 is physically quite big. It may not be enough voltage if you need a highish top speed.[/b]

You could use that old BACH-5-12c charge but a modern smart type would be a better choice. 

You can only get the TX-20 and the # BASIC-3 from me direct.
The battery pack is heavy to post and would be cheaper in the USA if you can get them. Alternately you might consider suitable Li-Ion batteries.
Suitable smart chargers are available in the USA.

The BASIC-3 provides 3.1 volts to power any sort of bright LED and each will need about a 470R resistor in series. So I doubt you can use any of the ready set up LED's from the source you link to.
Likewise the sound triggers are logic high at 3.1 volts and may not be high enough to trigger some sound systems that can handle that low a voltage.
If you want to use the pre-wired LED's and have a regular sound trigger you will need either a # SW-3 or # SW-4 to invert the signals. These plug into the BASIC-3.

If you have enough room for one of them, my BIK-xx installation kits would be useful but there may not be enough room.
Small switches and connectors should be readily available in the USA.
[/b]


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Thanks again Tony! 

I've been looking at RC setups for O-scale trains for a while, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. There's also been some interest shown on the OGR forum, some folks want to get away from the propitiatory systems that Lionel and MTH are using and are looking for technology similar to DCC. 

Bob


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

OK Bob. 
The technology I am using comes out of the gigantic R/C car, boat, plane and robotics field. DSM2 technology is the most common after market R/C equipment in those fields.
It allows great digital proportional speed control at quite low cost. 
Sure it doesn't have all the bells and whistles that DCC has for on board battery power, but it is reliable with great range and at a reasonable cost. 
Sure most basic DCC decoders are low cost, but by the time you start adding extra plug in RX modules and long range TX hand-pieces the cost escalates rapidly.

2.4 Ghz Digital Proportional R/C is without doubt the best way of controlling live steam locos with R/C. The down side has been the bulky 2 x stick TX's used. 
Now it is possible to mount 5 x R/C channels inside a pocket sized handpiece, the desire to get rid of the bulky old stick radios will be satisfied. 

You might actually consider the TX-2s handpiece instead of the TX20. Although the TX-2s was designed primarily for Live Steam, locos it can actually be used to independently control two locos from the one hand piece at the same time.


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## Seaboard Air Line Fan (Mar 22, 2012)

Tony, 

Something like your TX20 is what I'm looking for, I usually run only 1 engine at a time. 

I'm not your typical 3-railer. I run 3-rail because that's what I started in, but I've installed Kadee couplers on all my engines and rolling stock and fixed the pilots on the engines so they don't swing when going round the curves. 

3-rail permits me to run a bit tighter curves than conventional 2-rail, plus there's more available (and cheaper to some degree) in 3-rail than 2-rail (although that wasn't my reason for going 3-rail). 

I like running at slow speeds, not those break neck speeds most 3-railers run. I currently use the MTH DCS command control system, but I have run a couple of my engines using just the DC can motor and an old Troller Transamp 1 DC power pack. Worked fine, but I like the ability to walk along beside the train, so a handheld remote is preferred. 

If I went RC battery control, it would be possible for me to cut the center rail out and have the look of 2-rail. I have a 12x12 layout in an upstairs room, with a 2x14 extension (yard) down one side. 

Thanks again! 

Bob


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