# Ruby #5 0-4-0 couplers are two different heights - how to fix?



## Cyrex156 (Jun 12, 2012)

Hi all,

This is my first time posting here, so please bear with me. I own an Accucraft Ruby #5 0-4-0. I recently bought the coal tender for it and realized that the coupler on the rear of the Ruby is approximately 0.5 inches higher than the coupler on the front. Unfortunately, this height difference will not allow the coal tender (or any other rolling stock) to attach to the rear of the Ruby. I called the Accucraft Support number to inquire about this, and the guy (forgot who I spoke with) told me that the Ruby #5 was the only one that had this problem. All other Ruby's were fine. He said that I could mod it (i.e. lower the rear coupler to the correct height), and that Accucraft wasn't going to fix it. Personally, I found this suggestion highly frustrating since it's a multi-hundred dollar engine - it should be made to _actually_ be compatible with rolling stock and work properly in all aspects WITHOUT modification. I digress.

Could someone please walk me through this and what all tools and parts would be required to lower the rear coupler to a compatible height with the coal tender? I'm fairly mechanical, and it doesn't _seem_ like it will be that hard to accomplish. The bottom line is, I have no idea how to do this. I don't know what tools I need (and I don't have any that small). Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Use a long link; as link and pin couplers can be used with a wide range of coupler heights.

The way it's done at Diamondhead is we use a small paper clip when nothing else is handy.


----------



## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I have had the same issue with my shay pulling unmatched cars. I made a couple of bent links to compensate for the different coupler heights. 










Another solution is to purchase a Small, 2 pocket L& P coupler, w/ 4 links & 2 pins from Ozark Miniatures. It has a steel bolt and nut for attaching. All you have to do is drill one small hole where you want to mount the new coupler. 
http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idcategory=1250&curPage=7&sortField=sku
The coupler I am suggesting is half way down the page on the left.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

since it's a multi-hundred dollar engine - it should be made to actually be compatible with rolling stock and work properly in all aspects WITHOUT modification. 
Welcome to the wonderful world of live steam and Accucraft. How do you think the owners of multi-*thousand* dollar engines feel when they have to fix silly things like that. 

The bent link works - my FWRR Ruby has a similar problem. If you want to get really fancy, the prototypes used a multi-level coupler so you could put a straight link in at different heights. I think Ozark and Trackside Details make a casting version that you could bolt on the frame. Ozark's will be white metal which is not good on a live steamer - use a brass one from TD. 


I don't know what tools I need (and I don't have any that small 
Accucraft uses metric srews and bolts. Sometimes they work loose, so a set of metric nut drivers will be very useful! Wiha makes a set (about $45 from Micromark) and Accucraft sells a couple in their eStore.


----------



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I think I have the same engine you have. I did replace the buffer beams with bigger ones because I think they look better but that is a different story...

I went through my parts bin and found two different Kaydee couplers. a straight shank and an offset shank coupler I then just dropped a little bolt though the Ruby's coupler "pocket" catching the hole in the coupler. Unfortunalely, I cannot tell you the model number of the couplers, perhaps someone else can.


----------



## CN7470 (Jan 9, 2013)

Hey guys, Im new to this and i also have a Ruby #5 as well, I want to replace the link and pin couplers to Kadees but i dont know exactly on what to do. Any suggestions?


----------



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

there are two methods... 
One-- just get an offset coupler and a non offset coupler as shown above and stick it into the stock coupler pockets. 

Two-- Kadee offers couplers that mount against a flat buffer beam. these may need you to re-drill mounting holes and screw the new couplers to the beam. these couplers are pretty nice and come with centering springs./ they are a little fiddly to install though.


----------



## CN7470 (Jan 9, 2013)

Thanks! Just your average New-To-Garden-Railroading questions. This is my first ever live steam locomotive and im very pleased with it. Oh I saw your railroad in Garden Railways Magizine and i really envy your fleet!


----------

