# Made a code 250 swtich from GR plans.



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Ron Senek sent me some redwood tie sections he had made up to urge me into making a switch from the GR plans, still not sure if that was a nice thing or he was inflicting cruelty onto me!







*LOL!* Anyway, using the GR plans I made my first one using some SVRR code 250 NS rail I had extra. Had some problems, but got them resolved. Second one I used some of the used SVRR brass code 250 SVRR rail I had picked up from a guy that got out of GR. Brass was a LOT easier to work with. Cutting/grinding/filing all easier, plus having done one before it went easier. SVRR's neat little metal track gauge helped a LOT, just clip it on and you have the right spacing and then nail down the rail. I did discover you don't have to get the points as fine as you think, the code 250 is smaller, the plans are made more for code 332, I think. Here's a pix, still need groundt hrows, may get some more SVRR ones, like those, but they are pricey.

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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

looks great Jerry


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Ya done good Jerry. Later RJD


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Looks good and a lot better than spending a hundred bucks!!!! 

Jack


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I did discover you don't have to get the points as fine as you think 
Looks good! I keep telling people it's an easy way to save $$. Plus you get the smooth look of the prototype. Here's one of my favorites (actually Microsoft clip art!):










Then there's the research we did for the 16 page thread on building turnouts: *First attempt at turnout building*
where these drawings of PRR practice turned up. The point rail is bent upwards at the pointy end, so that you remove material off the head but the web below the head becomes part of the actual pointed bit:


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. Anyone know where to get drawings of other sizes of switches. I know SVRR sells them, just thought I could find some on the internet?


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Ewe dunn gud!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Anyone know where to get drawings of other sizes of switches 
Jerry, 

I stored .PDFs of several dual-gauge #6 switches - you can easily delete the extra bits you don't need. 

http://gold.mylargescale.com/peteth...0alone.pdf 

http://gold.mylargescale.com/peteth...0alone.pdf


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Pete, now IF I could find some #4's. On code 250 switches, do you need to fill in any with epoxy? Seems to track okay. I guess you have to do that on the code 332's?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry, on "sharper" switches, the tendency to "drop in" is less because the frog itself is shorter, i.e. the better chance to support the wheel all the way through the frog. 

My worst case is the Aristo #6 switches. 

Regards, Greg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

On code 250 switches, do you need to fill in any with epoxy?
Jerry, 

I think it depends on your wheel standards. If you are running the coarse stuff, then maybe, as your back-to-back may be relaxed and the gap at the frog wider. With G1MRA scale wheels I never used any filler, and the track was shared with Backmann gear. 

now IF I could find some #4's 
Before I did the CAD, I made them by hand. It's pretty easy to draw the basic straight part on a big sheet of paper, and the ties are about 1" apart, so that's easy too. The trick was to make up some curve templates. I used old picture mat, but any decent cardboard will do. Then you need a 6' piece of wood and a 6' table top (or similar space.) Make a compass with the piece of wood - put a pivot in one end and a pencil in the other end, and draw some curves on the cardboard at various radii. I had 5', 6', 8' and 10' drawn on opposite sides of a couple of pieces. Cut out along the curve and you have a template that will let you draw the switch. Here's an example, on my dinig table.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Pete! 

Jerry


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

I certainly don't mean to hijack this thread but, since there seems to be a few threads recently about hand-built turnouts. I have some #6 Micro Engineering (possibly nickel silver, maybe aluminum, not sure how to tell) code 250 turnout kits. Basically all the cutting and splicing is done and all the rail is held together at guage with special clips. The only thing required is to spike the assembly to your ties. There's several reasons I got into this hobby and holding my tounge just right to spike a turnout to ties is NOT one of them. If anyone's interested let me know, I'd even be interested in trading for some rolling stock. The kits come with templates to help in the assembly process and everything. I'll even throw in some individual SVRR plastic ties of varying lengths (designed for the purpose of assemblying turnouts) which can be used as the base rather than making your own wood ties. More than willing to take pics too if anyone's curious.


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