# Help with Bach 2-8-0 mods needed



## Cheapy 38-2 (Jan 9, 2008)

I recently purchased a Bach 2-8-0 Connie. Since Ive had it(my first piece of early RR power) Ive become more aware and noticing more of the steam units out there.
Im starting with what i know now which is this greatly detailed engine, and im a kit basher all the way. Ive seen some mods done to this engine and am looking for some help
or tips on doing them...Like moving the headlight on top of the smoke box, shortening the smoke stack, adding air pumps and lines like the one done up, or down i should say in this months

GR Mag. I was unaware of air pumps being on the engines like that, of the fact that they even needed pumps, and it looks really cool, very mechanical. if there are any other things that could be added like this to the engine, id really be interested in knowing about them.. thank you


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## Snoq Pass (Jan 2, 2008)

Cheapy 38-2, "....I was unaware of air pumps being on the engines like that, of the fact that they even needed pumps...." 

The air pumps are used for the Westinghouse air brakes. The time when the prototype was built railroads were using air brakes, or at least starting too (I don't remember the exact dates).


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## Cheapy 38-2 (Jan 9, 2008)

Oh i made a mistake, but the Connie has an air pump on its left side, but Kevin ( builder in GR) added a second pump/pumps to the engine right in front of the excisting. He must have taken them from another 2-8-0 and added it and the plumbing. it looks so good i thought it was totally different. see how green i am. but he did add what looks like a cooler underneath. very neat detail part. these are things im interested in seeing who has done what and how to this engine. I tried finding a picture to show but didnt have any luck.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Cheapy 38-2,

I have a Connie that I want to bash too. Many on this forum have transformed their engines into real beauties, but the one who really did it and kept the original character is Jack Thompson (Big5Dude here). Here is a link to his website.

http://4largescale.com/Thompson/index.htm

Good luck with your engine.


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's mine... I'm very happy with the way it came out. 

http://slatecreekrailway.blogspot.com/2008/07/introductions-and-beginnings.html (it won't hotlink, sorry...)

I didn't do as much to it as most folks, and may add even more later, but for now, I like it! 

Matthew (OV)


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are some ideas for you. 
































































Later


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Brilliant modelling, Rod, and exemplary photography to go with it.

When are we going to see the article on this and the K-27?

Besp

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod: Yes very nice looking conversion. Good detail. Later RJD


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## Cheapy 38-2 (Jan 9, 2008)

Gary, thank you for the link. I love the outside frame leaf spring conversion..along with the rest of it. 
Matt, very sharp engine you have there. thanks for sharing. 

Rod again excellent Detail. the air pumps, Sand dome, Stack, pilot, steps, the new roof line..everything is excellent. Just what i was looking for. Is there any way we can get some ideas on where you got some of the parts that you added, or what could be used. The air pumps im assuming are from another Connie? what about the extra plumbing? that cooler looking piece under the pumps..where is that from? An article would be great but for now just some tips will work as well. 

thanks guys for the help, this thread is going where i hoped.


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

A great locomotive to work with. People above have made some amazing changes to their 2-8-0's. 

http://www.liveoakrr.com/roster/motivepower7.htm


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Sand dome is a piece of plumbing cap, the exrta pump is from another Connie as you guessed. I use stripprd 2mm mains wire from "twin and Earth cable" fo my pipework, soft enough to fashion, but robust enough to stay put (unless you throw it at the wall. Here is a pic of it on the Mallet before painting. Its bigger than 640 wide, so its a link.

http://www.smegworld.org.uk/spaf/mallet/log/images/sp1.jpg 

The stack is a piece of steel polyplumb insert for flexible central heating piping, wrapped in 20thou styrene. Here it is unpainted 










Here is a close up on the T-19 bash. 












The pilot I made myself out of brass, similar to this K27 methodology, Accucraft ready mades will do, but they are costly. 










Anything specific you want just ask away.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Here's some "in progress" shots of one that I've been working on for a friend (trade-out for the 2-8-0 that I "downsized" for my dad). 

 









 









and a link to my first 2-8-0 project: http://home.comcast.net/~kcstrong/trr/Motivepower/TRR3-1.html

Later, 

K


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good K


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I think the big question is are you bashing it to make it prototypical or to make it more interesting. If you are going with prototypical then the best thing to do is research. If to make it more interesting than the sky is the limit. I have gone with changes that are pleasing to my eye and fun. Sometimes adding stuff that make people ask why also makes it interesting and fun.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Since the Connie is such a versatile loco, you can go nuts on the detailing or take a more subtle approach. It really just depends on the look you're after. 

I wanted one lettered for D&RGW along with some minor alterations to make it look a bit more like a Rio Grande loco. 

We lettered her as C-25 #375. The changes include: new lettering and some aluminum painting, moving the headlight up, removing the stack piping, adding plastic to raise the tender top, and adding a rectangular number board, marker lights, and derails.

But even with the time put into the project, she doesn't run much anymore. For one she's still track powered and we now run mostly battery powered trains. But the main reason is I'd like to one day convert her into a K-27, like the many fantastic conversions you may have seen posted here. Until that happens she will likely be waiting while our two LGB moguls do most of the work.


Anyway here's what she looked like during a night run 4 summers ago (oh and looks like we added extra flags too, forgot about those):


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice photos and the flags are a nice touch. Looks like an extra. Later RJD


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## DualRailTrail (Feb 6, 2009)

very interesting bashing going on here. I have a question..what is the best way for getting parts separated that are glued from the manufacturer. Like for example the headlight mount on the smoke box door of the 2-8-0. dont want to break it just to remove it. the bracket has 2 male parts that are glued to the holes in the door. thank you, and keep up the great posting.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Most come loose with just a little bit of "friendly persuasion." Typically I use a flat-head screwdriver and a tack hammer. 

Later, 

K


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Personnaly I remove the smokebox door (you will need to fill the recess that the lamp racket leaves behind. Snip the wires to the headlamp a ways back and then unclip the light from the bracket. You will be able to pull the light up and away carefully feeding the wires through the door and bracket. 

I then "persuade the bracket out from the back. If memory serves there were two small tangs on the lugs that poke into the door which you might want to trim off so the bracket pulls out frontwards. Be carfull with it though, as Kev says usually they decided to part company.


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## DualRailTrail (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks guys, ill give it a try. i wasnt sure if there was a product for loosening glue.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

If its cyano then a soak in some warm water can help. Sorry its a bit vague, must be 2 years since I done the last one.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I've had _limited_ success using solvent cement to loosen joints. The theory being that the solvent works into the joints, loosens them as part of its natural tendency to soften plastic, and you can then separate the parts while the plastic is softened. Doesn't work all the time, but it is a technique you can try for particularly problematic joints. 

Later, 

K


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## DualRailTrail (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks for the help everyone. Excellent job on those Engines,K. Ii really like how you lengthened the smoke box.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Submitted for your consideration is my "Rio Grandized" 2-8-0 with my Bachmann K-27 for a comparison:


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## crashbig (Aug 29, 2008)

What are you guys using for the small spark arrestors, they look great, I tried regular window screen but it looks too large.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Liberated mine from a Bachmann K-27. With just some very minor filing, it's a drop-in fit on the 2-8-0 stack. 

Later, 

K


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I was going to do that but decided to use an Accucraft one from a K-27 stack (an extra) that I had. I have a C-19 stack that I'm planning on adding to my Annie once it gets back from being r/c'd. I don't know if Accucraft or Bachmann sells them separately or not. Give 'em a call and let us know!


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

The little sacks that expensive sweets (candy to the US) come in (Thorntons in this case) . A fine mesh like stocking type material glued to a wire frame. Anything else is just too heavy.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Neat idea adding cinder caps.

And Steve, I really like the plow on the 2-8-0.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve,

I just received a call back from Cliff at Accucraft regarding the spark arrestor for the stack and he said that cannot be purchased separately. He even checked the factory for any laying around and they did not have any.
Bummer. The complete stack for the C19 is available for $42.00


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

QED


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## crashbig (Aug 29, 2008)

Well I guess that gives me an excuse to go buy candy.







I'll just have to work it into my wifes Valentines gift, candy for her, mesh for me.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I happen to have a C-19 stack that I was planning on swapping on my Annie to "Rio Grandize" it. Bummer. Those would sell like hotcakes!


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

That stack and arrestor on the K cost about 50 cents for the poly plumb insert, its v easy to knock up, honest. 

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&q=POLYPLUMB+PIPE+STIFFENERS&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=R--SSf_CLJWn-gahy6iJCw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title


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