# Bachmann "Connie":



## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

My Bachmann "Connie" arrived today. I purchased it on eBay BNIB for roughly half the list price here in the U.K.
I know that there was a lot of talk about checking the motor/gearbox mounting screws to make sure they are not loose, can anyone tell me if it is just the four screws that you can see on the casing around the third set of drivers from underneath the loco, or do I have to go delving deep into the guts of this little beast?
Bachmann have excelled themselves once again with the "exploded" diagram (Not) and working out how to strip her down could become a right pain.....
I have to say that the tender trucks seem to be just fine, having survived the British delivery system TWICE!
Apologies if the answer to my question appears elsewhere on this fine forum.
TIA,
Pete.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is what Dave Goodson (TOC) said about it:

Motor Screws:
While doing some conversion work on one of the new Bachmann 1:20 scale 2-8-0's, I found the motor to be loose on the gearbox.
This is a new design gearbox mount from Bachmann, and bugs may have inadvertently crept in to the assembly process.
The following is the procedure I used to adjust this and subsequent units.
First is the boiler removal, which is about the easiest Bachmann Large-Scale to disassemble to date.

Disassembly procedure:

1) Roll engine over on fireman's side, locate forward end of reverse actuating rod under running board where it attaches to the valve gear.
Remove slot-head screw. NOT MAGNETIC! Don't lose it!
2) Roll engine onto its wheels. Remove all 4 screws and both smokebox supports (if you try to flex them out of the way, it will scratch the paint).
3) Roll engine over on it's back.
4) Remove ashpan (4 small screws).
5) Remove 4 screws about in the corners of inside of firebox under ashpan.
6) Remove one screw between cylinders under front truck.
7) Separate boiler from chassis. Pull motor wires down from boiler to reveal in-line plug. You may unplug for complete separation of boiler from chassis.

Check motor for tightness to gearbox as outlined below:
Pull the lower gear cover, 4 screws, and front support bracket on top of frame to gearbox, 2 screws, lift the motor/gearbox off, removed 4 screws on one side and 2 on the other of the gearbox, separate the gearbox halves. The motor screws are located inside the gearbox. I removed the screws, locktited (222) and lubed before re-assembly.

When re-assembling, make sure the sander pipes from the sandbox on top of
boiler fit into holes provided in frame just forward of valve gear support bracket. They may spring backwards and rub on lead driver.


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Thank you Steve, I knew I could count on someone here helping me out with this!
All the best,
Pete.


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

While you're in there you may want to get rid of the suppressor board on the motor too. My two 2-8-0's are the hard workers of the SCRY stable.

Matthew (OV)


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Thanks for that Matt, will it make a difference to how she will run?
I see you have performed some headlight surgery on yours?
Cheers mate,
Pete.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

Pete. 
Here are the instructions for a battery R/C installation kit I make for the Connie. If you scroll through you will find some pictures on how to tighten the relevant screws. 
Combine those pics with the procedure given above. 

http://www.rcs-rc.com/PDF/Accessories/Instructions/Install_kits/TEN_LOC.pdf


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Thank you Tony, that is most helpful!
Will commence work on it tomorrow....
Not sure why it has been suggested in an earlier post that I remove the motor supressor board?
Cheers,
Pete.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

I second Pete's question. I've gone in and tightened the motor block screws, a la TOC, but what is the motor supressor board, where is it and why should we remove it? 

Chuck


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

Some PW control systems, and I have been told some DCC systems, see the various caps and inductors as a "short", or at the least a heavy load. 
As part of the board, there are two electrolytic caps arranged in a bi-polar fashion. 
I have had them mis-assembled, so the loco ran okay in one direction, barely crawled in the other. 

You are in there, remove it now to keep from having to open it again when you find out your choice of control system doesn't like it. 

They have overheated, smoked, and/or popped on various occasions. 
If you get one big puff of smoke out the stack, and then it won't run anymore, you will at least know where to look. 

One person I know of ran his in on rollers. 
By the time it popped, the plastic end of the motor had melted, destroying it. 

But, there are others out there far more qualified than I who will probably tell you it won't make any difference. 

All I can tell you is mine are in the junk box.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

Chuck. 
If you read that pdf link I posted it shows you exactly where the pcb is and tells you why it should be removed.


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete,

Refer to TOC and Tony's remarks, and Tony's file for the particulars on the suppressor board. While you've got it open, you may as well get rid of it and avoid any possible problem later that would require taking the engine apart ... again.

Yes, mine's had some surgery... actually the whole front end has been rebuilt, as well as a new bell rope, a new whistle, and a 'real' coal load. I'm hopint to upgrade the drive and add RCS control gear as well in the near future. The locomotive is equipped with Sierra sound as well. #8 has got a whole new pilot deck made of brass, with brass angle trim, and it's been shortened from the original. The pilot beam has been replaced with one made of wood, with bolt and air brake detail added, and a new brass pilot (as well as an AMS coupler.) It has a new number plate, and the finish on the smokebox is my own graphite treatment, and looks and feels very much like the "real thing." 

Second in line in that photo is SCRY #7 .... it's also had some "work" done, though much less in the way of structural details. Here's a couple of photos by Mac McCalla, who also did the detail and weather work. It's a good comparison to see all the changes in the front end of #8 ....


















Lots you can do with these!

Matthew (OV)

Oh, and one more ... the prototype (as rebuilt for the Alder Gulch in Montana where it runs today) just for comparison's sake:


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Wow, those "Connies" are just fantastic Matt.
I have seen a few other "Connie" "cut and shut" jobs on the forum as well, which make my fingers twitch!
I love the repaint / weathering and although I have done a few of my On30 locos and stock, I don't know if I can bring myself to attempt these BIG engines! (well at least not the k27).
I did not realise there was an acual prototype for the "Connie", I thought it was just Bachmann's "interpretation".
All th best,
Pete.


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh, now you did it.
FCM (Ferocarilles Mexicali ... don't hold me to the spelling) was the original owner, she was FCM #12, and looked like this (click here.) . The locomotive had a very short smokestack, a centered headlight (on the smokebox door) and an outside framed pilot truck, and a seperate exhaust stack for the compressor, an oil tender, and was (gasp) 30" gauge. When rebuilt, the exhaust for the pumps was piped into the smokebox, she was given a longer stack and extended smokebox, and a raised headlight with a centered number plate, and a bunch of beautiful hardwood and brass fittings.

The Bachmann model has a coal tender, a long smokestack, BOTH the piped smokebox and independant exhaust stack exhaust system for the compressor, an inside framed pilot truck, a Mexican style pilot, and the older style cab fittings ... and being 1:20.3 it's been selectively "widened" to 36" gauge. (Note that the On30 version is actually correct with respect to gauge!) They also don't generally admit to a prototype publicly. Basically they included a lot of features from the various parts of the engine's life, widened the gauge to 36 scale inches to fit the 45mm track, and made it a coal burner... well, just because ... so it's based on this prototype but is really more of a composite of the locomotive than an exact reproduction of any one particular configuration.... and it has some things the prototype never had (like the coal tender.) 

So... there will now be a bunch of people who want to discuss whether FCM 12 / Alder Gulch 12 is actually the prototype. Some because they think it is, or isn't, and some because they're programmed to catagorically disagree with everything I write. Long ago in a galaxy far away we even got a Bachmann source to admit it was the prototype ... and even today, their catalog and catalog web page says the prototype runs in Virginia City MT (which would make it Alder Gulch #12) but there will shortly be a hue and cry nonetheless. As a result, you get to make up your own mind on the subject.

Matthew (OV)

PS. If you decide Alder Gulch is the prototype, you may want to watch it run ...


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete -

Here's a view of my attempt to bash a B'mann Connie:










It's had all the internal surgery described above as well as a considerable amount of the "cosmetic" kind. Also, the plastic tender trucks have been replaced with metal ones.

If you'd like to see more of it, just click on my name below and go to "Super Connie C-20" on the "Engines" drop-down menu.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

Thanks Dave and Tony for the information. 

Chuck


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

A big "thank you" to everyone who has replied to my question!

Stripped her down last night (can't beleive it was so easy after all)!
Suppressor board hit the bin last night
Bought some Loktite today!
Have moved the headlight, but need to find something to cover the original headlight fitting point.
Am considering what other mods to carry out in the future (thanks to you guys!).
My very best wishes to all,
Pete.








P.S. Thanks for the video link to the A.G.R.R. Matt!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

While my mods are not nearly as extensive as Jack's, I have had my Connie also modified both inside and out. I decided to use an Accucraft "butterfly snowplow" from a C&S #60 as well as the air tank from a C-16, sand dome from a C-19 and smoke stack spark arrestor also for a C-19 to modify my 2-8-0. Some very basic styrene bashing and real crushed coal rounded out the mods. The engine has RCS r/c with battery power and a Sierra digital sound system. It is one of my top engines to run!


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Amazing work you guys!
Where do you all get your detailing parts from (could be a problem sourcing here in the U.K.).
Pete.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

Pete, Details on the builds are at http://www.gtrains.co.uk I am in the UK so I a lot of my bits are home made. Have you seen the price of an Accucraft pilot lately ? You might want to PM me with your home town.


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## scooby (Dec 22, 2008)

*RE: Bachmann "Connie":*

this is a great site it's worth taking a look 
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips.html


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Excellent, Thanks Scooby!
Pete.


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Thanks to you guys, I have now almost completed my "Connie" modifications to my satisfaction.
I based the mods on Kevin's (East Broad Top) wonderful creation No 350, but obviously did not go as far as he did in his "westernisation" project![/b]
*I am awaiting for some D&RG decals to arrive and then once applied I can put a sealer coat on, refit the cab windows, aquire some aquarium gravel for the coal load and find a front coupler...*
*She may not be everyones cup-of-tea, but I love her to bits!*
*Thanks again guys for the support and enthusiasm of your posts, I cannot imagine that I would have taken craft-knife to plastic had it not been for you!*
*She looks great up alongside my K27.*
*Cheers,*
*Pete.*
* P.S. Obviously the smoke is a photoshop creation and the tin of Humbrol paint in the boxcar is for size comparison for my modelling mates...








*


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

Crikey, my modelling efforts must be really bad for nobody to post a reply. Even ripping it apart would be better than nothing!!! 
But perhaps you guys have just seen it all before and you're getting bored with "Connie" mods? 
Either way, all the best from the UK. 
Pete.


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks right fine to me Pete maybe a peek at the engineers side to show the other half of your work? 

Dave


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Pete, looks good to me.Would have commented earlier but had total laptop failure and to reload windows and all my programmes








Connies are great, here is a pic of mine.It has shortened deck,outside frames to front truck,toolbox,spark arrestor,cab opened and moved back and valve gear converted to stephensons which works.tender is lowered with air tank and coal boards added.Sound is basic and runs off the contacts on the rear driving axle.Runs a treat and pulls strongly.You will have lots of fun with yours.
As an aside anyone looking for a cheap K should check out the Grosmont Model shop website, they are showing one at £455!
Regards from East Anglia
Bunny


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## UK_Pete (May 13, 2009)

*Thank you for your kind comments Dave and David,*
*Will get some more shots when the old girl is completely finished.....*
*David your Connie-Bash looks fantastic, I did not want to go to such lengths as you have of shortening the pilot or adding an outside frame for the lead pony, but I did have a crack at all the other mods. Don't know if I could pull off the valve gear mod though!!*
*I purchased my K27 (No 463) from Hattons in Liverpool for £499 and drove all the way up there and back in a day from the Gatwick area to collect it, are we all mad??? (I also picked up one of the "ALL-NEW" Bachmann boxcars whilst I was there for £80)!*
*I bought my "Connie" on ebay "BNIB" for £250.00. All in all I am very pleased with my purchases, once you have checked out and corrected all the little problem areas as mentioned on this forum, they seem to run very smoothly indeed.*
*I know that I am probably going against the grain but I think that I will ultimately end up with DCC control using Quantum Aristo boards (I only have a very little track at the moment).*
*I use Bachmann's "Dynamis" system with my Tsunami equiped On30 locos and love the freedom DCC allows.*
*All the best,*
*Pete.*


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