# Building two double-slips



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Hi,
I have made plans for two double slips, a crossover and two turnouts in one piece.
I have been inspired by the trackwork at Woodland Junction on the Woodland Railway.

Here I have cut all the ties and attached them to supports below. This is roughly where I want it to go. The ties are made from Oak.







Another angle..







I will be using code 250 aluminium, because of its softness and cost.

Here are some of the turnouts that I have built before with brass rail.








Please provide any tips/ experiences in building largescale double slips that you have.

Many Thanks,
Alec.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looks to me like your geometry is off, I don't see where the legs line up for a cross over. The slip sides look ok, but I don't see how the rest goes over from one side to the other. 

I hope you have a ton of patience! I see a whole bunch of rail grinding ahead! 

Good Luck! 

John


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Looks to me like your geometry is off, I don't see where the legs line up for a cross over.- I drew out the crossover on paper beforehand, but when it came to phisically assembling the ties, it must have gone out of line. Either I put a slight curve on the crossover or I cut of the problematic double slip and re-atach it at a slitghtly different angle. Thanks for the good luck- I will need it!

Alec.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

like your geometry is off 
There's such a thing as an "outside slip" besides the conventional "inside" double or single slip. In an outside slip, the points are outside the frogs but the rails travel through the crossing. I found this one on Wikipedia ("Railroad switch" page) :











What you have there looks more like a double (or scissors) crossover with double slips as the two outer/opposite turnouts.











Also note that a double slip is just two Y turnouts that overlap - a pair of Y's would make it easier for you.

I assume you've found the "First Attempt at Turnout Building" thread? Yours look pretty good so you probably don't need it. 
I've built bouble slips in the past - but the most successful were ones that came pre-cut/machined that I spiked to the ties!


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alec


Do you know of the computer program ' Templot', at http://www.templot.com/martweb/templot.htm?


I am no trackbuilder (or track layer for that matter), but that program may help, though you have done quite a lot so far!


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Pete, this is what I am building:









This the rough configuration of the components shown with Peco HO/00 track, the curvature for the rails will be different and better placed.

Thank you for the compliment with my existing trackwork- Your dual gauge track is inspiring. A shame that 1:22 std gauge in different to 1:20.3 std gauge- with the availability of stuff in 1:22 std gauge being great.

Peter, Many thanks for the software suggestion, I will need to look into that- looks quite useful!

Alec.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I could be wrong, has happened before. It would help me visualise with a section of track laid over it. 

I agree your skills are better than any luck you'd need. 

Wow that's some complicated track work! Now I understand the variation in leg widths. 

I look forward to seeing your progress. 

John


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

The rail I ordered came on Saturday- so I started cutting and filling. 
The aluminium is really easy to file to size, however the frogs have to be made to a different design than what I used in the past from brass.
This is my progress so far:


























Alec


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

I know lgb made one and it worked so it may help to look at it but yours is looking good also.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

This is my progress so far 
Very impressive! What are you using for track gauges? I made a few from bits of rulers - cut a slot the width of the rail head and another at 45mm / 1.75". Let me see if i can find a photo...


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

I know lgb made one The LGB double slip is equal to a R1 curve so is too tight, but the principle of the shapes of rail is still the same. I have enlarged N gauge double slip plans to G and I am using them as the basis. 

I am using a ruler at the moment for the gauge, but have used bits of tie strips upside-down sild onto the top of the rail in the past and have worked well. 

Thanks for all the compliments and encouragement. 

Alec.


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

I have got most of the double-slip done, but I still need to do some other things to do- spikes, grinding, ect.



















I have been able now to run rolling stock over it now.

Alec.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

That looks good Alec - congratulations!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I've built bouble slips in the past - but the most successful were ones that came pre-cut/machined that I spiked to the ties! 

Who sold these "kit" double slips? That would be a great project next winter, when I could take my time and see if I could do it. 

JackM 

The yard I'll be building soon - if it ever stops raining here - will include an LGB double-slip that I picked up off eBay for fifty bucks. Curves may be tight, so there'll be speed restrictions, but if it is at all negotiable it'll be worth it.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Nice! I'll have to pass this thread on to dad so he can see that someone else is as crazy as he is. Can't wait to see it in the ground. 

Jack, the LGB double-slip is 2' radius through the switch itself. Maybe it will work okay for just the small section with diesels and steam locos with blind drivers, but I'd be tempted to look for a different solution. 

Later, 

K


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

WOW What great craftmanship. Looks great 

I like the double slip switch. I had couple of the LGB's but Changed that part of the layout and took them out. 

I worked for me. 

JJ


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Already, half the problem is solved: no steam locos! 

If necessary, I have enough space to revise the trackage, but not until I've defied a few laws of physics. Then I might have to consider buying one from LLagas Creek ($500-600). 

JackM


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks for the kind words! 

Kevin- it is great that your dad can see how he has inspired my work- I will need to make some 3 way turnouts later! 

Jack- Have you ever built any trackwork? It is easier than you might think, build simple turnouts to begin with and work your way up. It would be lots cheaper than $500, the rail cost me £20 for 10 yards. 

Alec.


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Nice work Alec, 

How are you pivoting the point rails? is there something underneath them to hold them in place?


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks!

I am pivoting the rails by drilling a small hole in the base of the rail and putting a panel pin though that and into the wood. Before I have used rail joiners slightly opened out. 

Hope this helps, 

Alec.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome work Alec. Made me nostalgic for the garden layout I used to have with all the home-made track! 


Who sold these "kit" double slips? 

Old Pullman, which is now defunct, used to sell switch/turnout kits of rail ready to spike. All the work was done and they were soldered to spacers to keep it all in gauge. (You removed the spacers after it was spiked.) I did one of their simple/single switches in 45mm - the double slip was O-gauge. 

Doesn't Sunset Valley sell 'kits' of parts ready to spike? I think Clem has the Llagas Creek franchise on switches (his track guy, who's name escapes me, had a beautiful 3-way at ECLSTS.) Llagas has cast frogs with the check rails already set and used to make point rails - they were the easiest switches I ever made! Jack - with a good drawing to work on top of, anyone can make a switch using those parts. And I think the drawings are around here somewhere. Have you seen the "First Attempt at Turnout Building" thread that Mike just re-posted?


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

This where I am to now...
















This is is far as I can go for now, because I have run out of rail. But there is lots spikes to put in and slight ajustments to do.

Alec.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Very impressive!


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## fred j (Jan 12, 2011)

I totally agree, Great work.

Fred


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Very impressive, my only concern is, if you have friends over to run trains it will take a 20 minute training session to teach each one how to get a train through to 
the other side on the correct track







only kidding. 
Never the less VERY IMPRESSIVE.
Dennis


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

CRAP! I was thinking about trying to build a single switch





















 after seeing that anything is possible.
Dennis


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks for all the comments! 

I was hoping to order the rail last night, I guess tonight then... 

In HO/OO I found that they did make difficult switching, but with LS you can see the way things are set easier. 

Alec.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

it will take a 20 minute training session to teach each one how to get a train through to the other side on the correct track 

What's not obvious until you've played with a double slip is that all the point blades on one side are connected to the same tie bar. There are only 2 tie bars needed - so operation is really quite simple. You just move the tie bar to set the route you want through the switch. [And thank the Gods of Large Scale that you are using battery power so you don't have to figure out how the power all those frogs!]


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

that's pretty neat. Great job thus far. I think the only thing harder to do than this would be to do it in multigauge 

Dave V


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Pete it was a joke







, all for a smile.
Dennis


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