# Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?



## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello live steamers,

some weeks ago, I started a long term project while building a 2" scale live steam Shay. As this engine will be "large scale" and live steam, I wounder if some of you will be interested in a building and progress log here in this forum.

As sneak preview, I attached a photo showing the finished wheelsets beside a Bachmann engineer.









Cheers, Gerd


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## Mark Scrivener (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Yes! Very interested. 

Did you cut the gears and the wheels? Or were the gears commercial? Details please.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Beautiful! Yes, keep it coming. What gauge will this be?


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## Guest (Jan 20, 2009)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Gerd, I have been following your work for a while now nice. The gears are off the shelf from a German firm, check the link is on Gerd's site. 
Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Well, here's another preview of the actual progress. I'm working on the pedestals and on Sunday, I milled the uprights to form the right side pedestals that will fit around the crown gear. 

I'll tell you some more details this evening. BTW, I bought the gears as also the wheelsets, but both has to be machined on the lathe to match. The gauge will be 5" (127mm). 

When you're intersted in more informations and pictures, check out my website www.shay.de.ki and read more about this project. 


















Cheers, Gerd 

@Dan : nice to see you here too ;-)


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,

it's time for a progress update.

The pedestals are neraly complete since I've assmbled the last one yesterday. Only the journal and gear cover are missing. I ordered the journal covers as laser part so I'm still waiting for them. Here are detail photos of both style pedestals.


























While I was waiting for new thread taps, I spend time on the axle driven water pump. The excenter ring was made from brass as also the whole pump. Two stainless steel balls are used for the valves. After the pump was finished, it was tested in the kitchen and works fine. You can see it at Youtube => http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Is5XUhN-hk


























Finaly, I start work on the lower bolsters by cutting the raw material to length and machining the first parts.
Normaly, those early type Shays had wooden bolster instead of steel. I know that the bolster is "very heavy duty" for my little Shay, but it brings approx 4 more pounds of weight to each truck so this helps me to reach the final minimum weight of 100 pounds. The story could be, that the roundhouse crew has replaced the wooden bolster after a train wreck in reason of a brocken bolster. 

Detail photos of the bolster during construction will be added with the next report. For today, I'll close with two mokeup photos, showing how all will come together.
Oh, the wheelsize is 22" and the wheelbase will represent 36". I guess this will match with a small 10 to 11 tons Shay.


















Will be continued.

Bye, Gerd


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## Mark Scrivener (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Lookin' good Gerd!


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

2" Scale, what does that work out to in ratio? And will this run on 45mm track?


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

The scale ratio is 1:6 and the gauge will be 127mm (5"). 

Gerd.


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Gerd, 
I see you decided on an axel feed pump. You really need a larger crew to move those heavy duty parts around. I hope the guy ridding the 4 jaw chuck was holding on really tight. 
Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Dan, 

yes you're right. After some thoughts, I think this will be the best solution. I'll also add an injector and a hand pump. 

Cheers Gerd


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd, do you think it's worth having the axle pump as the loco will drive so slowly maybe you should consider 2 injectors and the hand pump that will be sufficient. Most people building 5" in the UK don't bother with axle pumps now as injectors are so reliable. I own a 5" Torquey Manor and am making a crosshead pump but it will only be to look at although I could make it work.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Tony, 

my first steamer in this size has also a axle pump and I'm very happy with this design. I had always trouble in operating an injector while driving, so a simple and easy feed system will be worth a lot. But that's my opinion and also my experience that I made. 

It's also a question in boiler size. As smaller a boiler is, as more importend is a good feed system. While a larger boiler will run one lap on a layout, a small one will only do a half lap before the water level will reach the lower level. The next problem is, that the steam source on a small boiler is also limited and most steam will be needed to keep the engine running, so there's no in many cases there's no steam free to operate feed systems while driving the engine. 

I take a look on google for the Torquay Manor and the boiler will be near twice the size of my Shay boiler. 

Bye, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd: Looking very nice. Would like to see more of your progress. I like the wood faceplate you used to secure the pump strap. Wood works very well for "one off" set-ups like that.

How are those "shop helpers" working out?

Bob


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello and good morning ;-)

@Bob : they are doing a great job. But meanwhile, they need fork lifts and cranes to handle the growing truck. But step by step....

My girlfriend was working this weekend (she's working as nurse), so I had a lot of time for my second girly Abby *hihi*

First I build the bolster stands (I don't know if this name will be correct) from chanel, flatbar and threaded rod. On the rear, I mounted some 10mm square bar as guide for the spring plank.










Next I screwed the lower bolster together and milled it to final shape. The bolster for the rear truck got also a special grove to hold the axle pump. After milling the spring pockets, the bolster ist neraly complete. I also added the pivot points for the break rigging. Remember, that the Shay will get a working steam break.










Finally, I cut the spring planks from heavy flat bar and installed them on top of the springs. When the Shay will be finished one day, I've to adjust all the spring work to the final weight of the locomotive.










But these was only the work from Saturday... On Sunday, I started with the next chapter, the archbars. I raw cut all bars and started to bend them by using a chisel and hammer on top of an old vice. This works very well even on 4mm thick steel flat bar.










I stared with the lower frame with only a few bends to test this method.










Then I've gone ahead with the upper arch bars. I printed a 1:1 side view of the trucks to control each bend .










To get a feeling of the growing trucks, I started assembling of the front truck by adding the lower frame and upper archbars. That looks pretty good for the moment.










Still missing are the middle archbars. While this bends are very sharp (approx. 70° ) I used 15x3mm flatbar for this. The first two have been bend in the same way as shown above.










Now stay tuned => the first truck rolls out yesterday in the very late evening !!! But no photos yet and the truck was hold together by clamps. But it rolls and that was a very great feeling. Unnecessarily to tell, but I sleeped very well last night.

Some more pictures of several other steps can be seen on my website.

That's all for now but will be conitnued...

Cheers, Gerd


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Gerd, 
Those trucks are really looking great! I am amazed that you can bend those bars so accurately with only a hammer, chisel and vice. Thanks for the postings. I love your little workers as they give a sense of the size of your parts. What scale are they?


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi, the guys are typical G-scale figures. The left for example is an engineer from an Bachmann 2-4-2 Lynn. Bye, Gerd


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## Guest (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi Gerd, Nice work, the part that guides the bolster is called the truck column in the Lima Shay records.

Did you estimate the total weight of the locomotive to size the springs or it is it just a guess that might require different springs in the future?
Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hello Dan, 

at first thanks for your gratulation and also for the hint for the columns. 

To size the springs, I guessed the total loco weight to approx. 55kg (120 lbs) and substraced the trucks weight with 9kg (19 lbs) each. The rest was divided by the number of springs (16) so each spring will carry 2,3kg (5 lbs). With this data and the needed minimum length, I used a tool from my spring dealer to find the right size. So the springs will be the final one. 

What I'll have to do when the loco is finished, is to adjust all the springs by drilling the pockets deeper. So I can change the free length and pre-loading to bring the whole loco into balance in length- and crosswise. 

When I'll be back at home, I'll post some pictures of the front truck with pedestals and wheelsets in place. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Here are the pictures I mentioned above. 



















Enjoy the pics, Gerd


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Wow Gerd, I'm really impressed with what you've accomplished in such a short time! Very nice!! BTW, is the loco you're building based upon Kozo's book? Also, where did you get the gears?


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Gerd, 

When are you going to start painting?


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hello Dwight, 

it's based very far on the Kozo books. I have them both and use them as reference for ideas and constructions designs. 
But finally, I build my own design. At least while I'm building in 2" scale and this is much larger then Kozos engines. I use several plans from the Mich-Cal-Shay and a fine detailed drawing set from Al Armitage, publised in several isssus of FinescaleRR and NG&SL Gazette. 

The final look of my Shay will be like the Bachmann On30 engine, but with a cab in stained wood optik like my Forney. I don't like "all in black" locies. 

The gears are ordered from a German dealer for standard parts. The have 30 and 15 teeth and have the modul 2.0 .

@tony23 

Take a look on the last pictures. The wheelsets and inner flangs of the pedestals have already been painted. I really hate it to assemble a model and disassemble it again for painting. So I prepaint the components and assemble them only once (in most cases). Another reason on this trucks is, that there's a lot of adjusting work needed to get the wheelsets running smooth and parallel. So I hope they will work in this design for many many years. 

Cheers, Gerd 

PS.: I changed the latest pictures with newer views of the truck.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hello again, 

the second truck is also ready to run. I added the line shafts with the bevel pinions and will start the universal joints next. 










I also posted a large number of several new progress photos on my website. 

Now, I'm totally OOM (Out Of Material) and I'll order new stuff for the frame next week. And I'm still waiting for the laser cut journal covers and break rigging parts (break shoes and links) to complete the trucks. But the laser guy is ill so it will take some more time. 

So don't worry, the project will be continued soon (because I can't wait to get the loco running  ) 

Bye, Gerd


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd,
Absolutely beautiful work. I can't wait for the next episode.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hello all, 

I made only small progress the last days. I machined the universal joints and test run them. The work great. 
But I'm still waiting for delivery of the ordered material and laser parts :-( 










Details are shown on my website as always. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Livesteamers,

it's a while ago since my last post. So I'll show you an update on my Shay.

Meanwhile, the trucks are completed with brakes, covers and color. Also the frame is mostly done.


















































































Many more descriptions and pictures are on my homepage.

Cheers, Gerd


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Gerd, 

Thanks for posting. It's a beautiful job! 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hi Gerd, 
You will be ready for running boards soon. Did you mill the frame channel? That is one the hardest jobs I did for the 7/8ths Mapleton Shay. Cold rolled steel will warp when it is milled and I did both sides and finished with a tapered ball end milling cutter. 

I checked out the gear vendor you used and was happy to find gears with a 2.5:1 ratio. The face lengths are a bit longer than what can be bought on this side of the pond. Thanks for the source. 

I wish my project was progressing as fast. 
Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Hello Dan, 

I faked the channel for the side beams by using a rectangular sttel bar with 10x25mm and added 2x16 flatbars on top and bottom. This flatbars are hold in place with the screws of the run board supports. This has several reasons : I couldn't find I-beams with th right size and this version brings more weight to the model. Actual, the Shay weights 30 kg. 

This evening I started with the break levers for the frame underside. I also had a long phone call with a boiler maker. We discussed the price of a cooper T-boiler and now I've to collect the money for the boiler. Once the boiler is here, the most difficult parts are ready except the steam engine. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd: Your boiler is a "T" type? I think "T" is a great choice. The vertical barrel accumulates a lot of steam for steady running. Great work on the chassis. But you need to get those helpers busy.

Looking forward to your next. Bob


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Bob,

you're right, the Shay will get a T-boiler. I'll finish the drawing set today and will send it to my boiler maker.

Meanwhile, the break rigging on the frame was also installed and works fine. I also added two braces on the engineers side running from the side beams to the each of the end beams. Actually, the frame was painted black and is now ready for the next steps. First I'll add the runboards and will continue with the break cylinder and hand break lever. I've also to build a working break steam valve as I'm building a working steam break.



















As the small folks were on vacation over the easter weekend, I placed myself behind the Shay frame on this outdoor photo. The photo was taken on April 10th, just before painting.










Cheers, Gerd


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Gerd, That is absolutely gorgeous work!!! I am following your work with great interest although I'm sure I will never build anything that size. I just enjoy seeing great engineering and building skills.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

*RE: Are you interested in 2" scale shay building log?*

Good morning, 

I spend a couple of hours on my Shay last weekend to build the brake cylinder. A test run on compressed air works very fine. Some work is still to do and the initial piping is also missing. I hope I can add this during the next days. The final piping and brake valve will be installed when the cab is on one day. 

The brake cylinder was made from bras and stainless steel for the piston rods. Some more progress photos are hosted on my website. 




























There's a small video of the test run at YouTube => http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urOGqKYZ5hI 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello, 

it seams that I missed some progress posts here on this board... So I'll give you a small update... 

Meanwhile, the run boards and cab floor has been mounted and stained into a dark brown (not shown in this photos). I also added steps for the cab and the universal slip joints, that are running great. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29zxJTffMhY 




























I also completed the boiler drawings and send them to my boiler maker. 

Actually, I'm working on the tender tank of the Shay. This tank is built from brass sheet and brass angle. Over 600 small copper rivets will hold them together. After construction, I'll soft solder each joint to seal the whole tank. Capacitiy will be 6 liters. 



















More details and photos can be found on my website http://www.shay.de.ki

Cheers, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd,
Nice plate work. I see that it wore the crew out. 
The working steam jamb is nice. The brake valve for a Shay looks like a D slide valve only it has a rack on it that is moved by a gear with a handle. This will send steam to either side of the dual pistons.
 Cheers Dan


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## D&RGW 461 (Jun 4, 2009)

Nice work Gerd, I have a gear set on the shelf that would probably scale out nicely on a 5" model. Aww heck, I probably will never dust em off !!! Dan, Are ya gonna bring new goodies from that shay project you been workin on to Diamondhead , I sure enjoy fiddlin' around with that stuff and it seems alot of other people over there do too !!! Chris Sortina


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd,
I just noticed your your zero throw crankshaft... well it is one way to keep the universals from flopping around.

Chris I am working in the shop today and making the steam chests for the first engine so I will have new stuff...and maybe I will get some track time this year.


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## D&RGW 461 (Jun 4, 2009)

Awesome, Dan, Looking forward to seeing you and expect to have a big crowd watching it. I'm sure you will be on your A-Game as usual. Chris


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Digging out an old thread *hehe* 

Hello folks and Shay fans : After a break of 6 month, I'm back on my Shay project and did some progress last weekend. 

At first, I added a hand brake to the loco. All parts are home made from stock material (steel & brass). 
I need to rebuild some parts of the installed brake rigging of the steam brake. 


















The first tank design shown in a previous posting was very close to the prototype, but very bad in operation handling. Remember that I build a "ride on" scale Shay and have to handle all cab controls and at last the coal shovel. The now used tender design was successfull tested on my Forney locomotive so I decided to use the same desing on my Shay. 

So I build a new tender from plywood and sheet metal (aluminum & brass). The rear section will hold a square watertank made from brass sheet while the front section is for coal. I also added first details to the tank. Once the water hatch has been installed on the cover, the tank will be painted and finally set in place. 


























Finally, I start with the rear sandbox, using the same way as done on the tank. A piece of plywood was covered with aluminum sheets.


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## ETSRRCo (Aug 19, 2008)

Wow that looks great!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi folks, 

I made some good progress the last days. 

The rear sandbox was completed with details and has been installed after painting. The water tank got the hatch on and was also mounted after painting. 

























Click on thumbs for large pictures. 

After some hours and many sketches, I came back to the first design for my Shay and build a wooden std. cab without side windows. The cab is colored to match the look of the Forney. 

I used plywood for the basic superstructure and added boards to create the typical look of a Shay cab. 



























Next I made the bell. The bell itself was bought some years ago from a sail & boat supply shop. All other parts are made from steel. 

























Click on thumbs for large pictures. 

So here's an actual view of the whole thing from yesterday : 










That's all for now. I ordered material for the sand dome yesterday and will continue with the dome and the head light next. Once all boiler adds are done, it's time to start the steam engine... So I'll spend some hours on the CAD drawing board to create the steam engine. I think I'll build a mokeup from wood and styrene first. By building those parts correctly, I can use them to oder castings in bronze, brass and other material. 

Bye, Gerd


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful Gerd, absolutely beautiful! Your craftmanship is a joy to behold! 

Keith


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Gerd, good to see you again. The wood beams on the front and back with all the bolt detail turned out very nice. Good show with those.

Bob


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## Ray C. (Jan 2, 2008)

Great Work, Gerd! 
Btw, slightly OT, you own another locomotive originally made by TJV in Spain; are they still around, and if so, do you have any contact info for them? A good friend here in the States owns one, and is interested in some parts.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Ray, 

TJV in Spain doesn't produce live steam trains anymore. 
I meet the former owner and manufacturer some years ago, but I don't have any contact infos of him. I'm sorry. 

At last, many thanks for your comments. This evening, I spend some hours on the drawing board for the steam engine. It's quite tight to get the engine in there, but i think it will work... 

More to come in a few more days. 

Bye, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
Nice work as always. 
Good to see you back on this project. It will be nice to see an engine even if it is only a mock up for size. 
Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Dan, 

here are two pictures from last evening. The engine will fit to the loco very tight in space, but it will work. I spend 2 hours in CAD last night to check the main dimensions and will go forward with final drawings and a wooden mock up the next weeks. 



















Bye, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
The engine looks good. I have 3 points that you might want to add to make the engine match the prototypes. 

The first one is the link suspension point. You have it on the out board end. The prototypes had it in the middle of the link with a bridge bolted to the top and bottom of the link. Kozo used a bit of angle to bolt the suspension from the bottom of the link but it was centered. 

The second point is the cylinder crankshaft bearings. You have the joint perpindicular to the piston rod. The prototype bearings were angled 30 degrees. I am not really sure why this was done but in a side view the rear bolts can also be seen. I only know of 2 Shay engines with out a crankshaft bracket that had the bearing at 180 degrees like you have drawn. These were both very early bearings with an early version of the wedge adjusters that were used with the crankshaft brackets. 

The final point is the small Shay cylinders were cast with a single piece so the cylinder and the crank bearing box was the same casting. If you change the lower cylinder bolts to flathead screws this will hide the joint a bit so it will not stand out. 

These are all minor points and the engine will look fine either way... I just had to put in my 2 cents worth. 

Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Dan, 
many thanks four your hints. You've to know, that this printed version is very old. 

The front view with the link shown is placed mirrored. It was planed to place the suspension point on the other side, facing to the boiler. Well, I'll take care of your words and will place them centered as you mentioned. 

I agree with the crankchaft bearings too. I changed this on my drawings for the final version. It's just a small detail but will be in the spot on the finished model. 

At last, your hint with the combinated cylinder crank bearing box casting was very helpful. This allows me to go another way in construction. 

I listed up the needed material for the crankshaft and crankshaft bearing boxes... It's not too much by using steel for those parts, so maybe I'll start construction of those parts this month. That would be great. 

Thanks and please stay tuned, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
The way you drew the link is the same way Bill Harris did it for the model of Mich-Cal #2 S/N 122. I have seen the real loco and it is a normal Shay design with the link suspension in the center. 

If you scale Kozo's valve gear design for your model you should be fine. I took apart my Astor WM #6 engine and drew all the valve gear parts. I do not think that it is a coiencedence that it is a smaller scale version of Kozo's design. 

If you are doing a sctatch valve gear design give me a quiz on the subject of Shay valve gear design at: http://www.7-8ths.info/index.php?board=108.0 
Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Well, it's time for a small update =)


Hello Shay friends.
I start work on the sand dome the last days. The dome head and pipes are still missing but I guess I'll add them during the next days.
Once the sand dome is finished, I'll proceed with the smoke box front and head lights.



















I also redraw my steam engine. I replaced the planed 2-7x12 steam engine by a 2-7x7. This smaller steam engine will match much better. I also spend many hours to capture the protoypical look at it's best. I hope you enjoy the new steam engine. Maybe I'll start with the crank shaft next month. I fact of the new design, I've to order new stuff to build the crank shaft brackets.


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
I see that you are modeling the early style fluted sand dome. These had a fancy casting for the top handle. If you do not have a clear photo of one I can search through my photos to find good image. 

The photo does not quite go low enough to read the shop number on the builders plate. Nice work it is really taking shape. 
Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Dan,
here's another picture, showing the finished sand dome and also the shop number 782. This shop number actually was a open cab T-boiler Shay with a 2-7x12 engine so the number doesn't match my model engine. While I build an own design, based on many typical Shay components, no original shop number will match, so I chose one that was quite close to my model. Sadly, I ordered the etched brass plates BEFORE I decide to go forward with an 2-7x7 steam engine :-( Maybe I'll mill off the actual number and replace them with another one.
Finally, I've no problem with the wrong shop number and most railroaders here in Germany will never notice the wrong number =)












So next I'll start with the smoke box front. 

BTW : I'll post some screenshots of my new steam engine design this evening for review.

Bye, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Dan, 

I didn't find the time yesterday for the drawings but now they are on my website. 

















The steam cylinders from bonce are bored with 28mm. The steam chests are separat added and made from brass. Between the steam chest and cylinder, I'll add a 2mm plate from bronze, holding the steam ports. So it's possible to change the steam ports if needed and you don't have to replace the whole cylinder unit. The stroke was set to 30mm. 










Here's the actual overview. I redraw the whole engine. I found a picture at the 7/8th-scale board from your Gilpin Shay engine and used this model as reference for my new drawing set. 
The crank shaft brackets are know angled as you've mentioned above. I also designed the crank shaft/cross head guide housing that way, that the final engine with cylinders will represent the early one-piece-casting design. I think you know what I mean. 










The last screen shot shows most components that I've drawn until yet. Now it's time to collect some money to order the raw stock material... 

Your comments are wellcome. As long as I didn't start with the steam engine it's possible to change details and dimensions. 

Tomorrow, I'll start with the smoke box front. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
Those drawings will make a very convincing model of the 2-7x7 Shay engine. You might consider only 4 cylinder cover bolts. I found that with 5 they are a little close to the steam passage. The LLW drawing shows 5 but the pattern is 180 degrees out from what I did. This is not possible without cast in passages so I made the change. Another minor point is the crankshaft the version you drew will not match the photos. I know this because I made my first crank as you drew it. The cylinder closest to the cab souuld be at top dead center when you can see the strap bolts for the other cylinder. Also the studs for the main bearing caps had double nuts to lock them. A final point is there is an aditional plate on the cylinder to mount it to the steam bracket or manifold and a similar plate to bolt it to the lower bracket that is bolted to the bottom of the boiler. With a boot boiler this bottom bracket is curved to match the boiler and it has struts with plates to match the lower plate. I can sketch one up if you are not following the description.

A further historical note the old version of the 7x7 engine with the long steam chest does not exist. The replacement drawing T-54 shows a short steam chest. My assumption is that T-54 is a direct replacemtnt for the old style cylinder so I used the main dimensions and changed things to match the photographs. I have never seen a photo of the short steam chest 7x7 cylinder shown on drawing T-54. The drawing on the LivesteamShays yahoo group home page is T-54 with all the details. 
See: http://home.earthlink.net/~locodan/drippingspringslocoworks/id11.html 
Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Dan, 

well, i fliped the crank shaft to correct my mistake on the counter weight positions. 

I know the typical boiler brackets for the steam engine and I'll go forward to model them on my Shay. But I would prefere to mount the steam engine on the main frames side beam and use the boiler brackets just as dummy, mounted to the steam engine but actually not on the boiler. I think this way may be easier to build and makes maintenance easier as you can remove the boiler or steam engine separat. Finally I'll capture the over all look but not each little detail. 

Last point is the steam chest. I'll redraw my plan set again and will check the look of the smaller steam chest. Maybe I'll go forward with the small version as it makes the steam chest easier zu build and I don't need the whole chest at all in the actuall drawing. 

Bye and thanks again, Gerd


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## Mark Scrivener (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Gerd, 

Just a note to say she is looking great and let you know there are still lots of us out here lurking and admiring your project even though we don't post very often. 

Not sure what you are using for CAD, but I've recently taken to Alibre which is a full 3D CAD program and allows you to make assemblies of multiple parts - great for checking fit, etc. I think it is $100 now - so pretty cheap for a professional CAD package. 

Keep the picks coming! Great work! 

-Mark


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello and good morning, 

the last week, I did some progress on my Shay by finishing some open issues. 

First I made the roof with hatch on the cab, mounted a wounderfull 3-chime-whistle (Accucraft) and the cover around the steam engine. 




























I also added hand rails and I finally completed the smoke box front cover. I also applied the c/n plates, made from etched brass. 




























On late Sunday, the Shay was posing in the setting summer sun for some outdoor photos. The pic below shows the actuall status of progress. 
Next I'll add the head lights to complete the face of the locomotive. The stack is also missing (it's just a moke-up with the diamond from my Forney). I look forward to start with the steam engine very soon. 










PS.: Remember that the boiler is still from plastic tube and NOT the copper boiler... This is another open issue on this project. 

Gruß, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
Nice progress. I will be looking forward to seing the engine parts as you get time to build them. The number plates look very convincing and you can always make up a story for the unlikely event that some one points out that the engine has changed. It was common to change cabs after a wreck the replacement cab is usually not nearly as nice as the one built in your shop. 

Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Dear Dan, 

many thanks for your comment. 
The c/n 792 was chosen as I was still planing to build a 2-7x12 steam engine. While I'm building a totally freelanced Shay, any existing number won't match. So I decided to take one that's sounds good and matches the build time of my locomotive. But the c/n 792 matches the size of my Shay very well. 
One week after I ordered the etched brass signs, I decided to build 2-7x7 because this steam engine would look much better on my Shay. 

At last, as mentioned before in this thread, there are only a few guys who will ever notice that the number doesn't match the model ;-) So what matters. 

The steam engine was hardly modified since the last posts about her in this thread. As described, I changed to a 2-7x7 and I used the plan from the yahoo-group for reference. I also changed many parts of the construction to capture the look of the steam engine. 

Actually, I've enough steel at home to start with the crankshaft. I think this will be one of the most difficult parts on the steam engine. All other construction should be straight forward. 

Bye, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello all.

Well, looking on the lasat picture of the Shay in the garden, she looks "blind" without her head lights. So I start to made them from steel. 12 hours of work are spend and the same time will be needed to get them done. Here's an update photo from yesterday evening.










Bye, Gerd


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Gerd!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys,


I made some progress on the details parts of my Shay locomotive the last weekend. The head lights are mostly finished and I'll add the supports for them during the next days.


I also made the dummy boiler feed pipes. The actual water feed heads will be installed inside the cab.



















Bye, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Folks, 

the head lights are in place now. Actually I start work on some valve handles, details stuff and wood work to decorate the loco. I ordered a new parting tool for my lathe and will finally start with the steam engine soon. 





















Bye, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd: The Shay looks great. Your work is first class. But -- you are to have to start on the engine unit soon. Can't wait anymore.

Thanks for sharing this. Bob


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Bob, 

you mean somewhat like this ? *hehe* 

I just started with the first cuts to make the crank shaft. I cut an 8 cm piece from a 60mm diameter steel rod to fabricate the cranks. Not so much to see yet, but the first cut was done to build the steam engine. 




















Saddy, I killed the index bit on my parting tool so there was no further progress possible today. But I'll continue next week as soon as I get new parting bits. 

Bye, Gerd


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Glad to see you're finally starting the engine Gerd. You might be better off cutting the parts by a different method and then facing them off.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd. I thought you had an "Armstrong" power saw. You know, 2 stong arms pushing a hacksaw.

I've been dreaming for years of building that Shay in 2.5" scale. Need to get it going.

Bob


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Well... I just had 15 minutes yesterday to do some progress on the cranks... I turned the outer diameter down to 56mm. That works great with fresh and sharp tools.
Meanwhile, I repaired my milling machine in fact of a teeth less spur gear. Now my workshop is in fully operational condition.











Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,


did some more progress and cut off two 24mm discs and drilled the holes for the crank pins and main axles.






















I' ll bring them to final shape on sunday and will split them up to get 4 cranks at least.


Cheers, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Hi Gerd, 
Nice start on the crank. I will be watching the steam engine build with a lot of interest. 

Is your plan to scale up Kozo's Stephenson valve gear solution? If so I think that that will work fine as it is very similar to a real Shay design and the Aster WM #6 is a scaled down version of Kozo's solution. 

Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Dear Dan, 

yes, I'll go for the Kozo-Design valve gear. 
I finally spend some more hours to redraw my steam engine design, regarding on the 7x7 engine posted on the Y-group. I had to make some technical compromisses but I think the engine will come along very nice. 
It's my plan to have the loco running on air until the end of 2010. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd: What's the plan to assemble the crank? Press in pins? 

Looking forward to seeing this.

Bob


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Bob,

yes, I'll use press seats and pins to assemble the crank shaft. Some may silver solder this, but I don't like to apply so much head to the crank shaft in fact of ...

Well, I did some good progress yesterday, bringing the cranks to their final shape.

I used the parting tool to cut the raw cranks 2/3 in the center. So I was able to mill the outline in pairs.





















Once the shape was completed, I finally split them off and faced them on the lathe to final thickness.











Next I'll file the edges and corners and drill some holes for pins and the clamp belt bolts. More details and pictures of the last progress steps are shown on my website as usual.


Cheers, Gerd


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd,
Diese kleinen Menschen sind sehr gute Maschinisten.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

"Those little men are great engineers" 


Oh yes, they are... Some days ago, I stored three of them on a side board (for what reason ever.. I don't know) and searched for them a long time. I didn't find them... The funny thing is - most parts I build in this time without the little helpers, I made a lot of mistakes, wrong cuts and had no luck with the parts I was making for the Shay. Finally I spotted them on the board and since this day, I had much less problems... Isn't it strange? 

Stay tuned for the next steps. Maybe I'll do some progess this evening...

Bye, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello again,

meanwhile, the crank shaft has been assembled except for the valve gear excenters.

I drilled and milled some more holes and slotes to finally shape the cranks and sanded/filed them to finish. Then I cut 2 crank pins and pressed them into the cranks. I used a second shaft to allign the cranks during this step. Once both crank pairs are ready, I alligned them on the main shaft and glued them in place with loctite. I added 3mm pins through each joint to secure there position.





















In the next step, I cut out the main shaft between the cranks and I added the clmap bands around the lower section of the cranks, made from brass.












After adding the excenters, the crank shaft is ready and I'll order stock material for the rest of the steam engine.


Cheers, Gerd


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Gerd, Very nice work. 
I have a very similar crank only a bit smaller on my desk. If you check any clear photo of a 7x7 Shay engine you will see that you have reversed the webs. I made this same mistake on my first crank and no matter how hard I tried I could not make it match the photo. I was not all that happy with the first try so I made a new one. Hopefully this message gets to you in time. 

Cheers Dan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello, 

here's a short update on my Shay project. I installed the steam brake valve and added the pipes to the brake cylinder. The steam brake still doesn't work very well. Maybe I've to chance the piston seals. 




























Last weekend, I started with the steam engine. The photo shows the cylinders and covers. Yesterday I finished both piston bores. Bore and strock are 30mm. 




























Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,

"Dooh" would Homer Simpson say in fact of the misstake below... The holes for the lower cylinder cover are out of the center line do to a bad hold in the round table. I tried to fixed it but made it much worse. So I ordered a new piece of cast iron and will make a new one.












As long as I'Ve to wait for the new cylinder block, I started with the steam chests made from brass. Thes are going fine so far.




















Next update may come next week.


Cheers, Gerd


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, and cut with an ax.







Don't you hate it when that happens?


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd, 
I think it is encouraging for others to see something can go wrong. Otherwise they think they could never start scratch building. Your Shay comes nicely along and looks good. I will soon start with the restoration of my 4 3/4" Heisler. 
Regards


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Gerd. Really looking great. Cylinders have to be the hardest to do. There are so many machining steps and so many chances to make a mistake.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By HMeinhold on 27 May 2011 09:27 AM 
Gerd, 
I think it is encouraging for others to see something can go wrong. Otherwise they think they could never start scratch building. Your Shay comes nicely along and looks good. I will soon start with the restoration of my 4 3/4" Heisler. 
Regards 

Gerd and Henner-

Our family had a very old (1910s era) 3/4" scale steam loco made by a distant great uncle in its posession when I was a child. One thing I remember about the model was its crate also contained several "mistake" parts in with the loco including wheels, valve gear and other bits. So unfortunately, suc h mistakes are nothing new. Amazing work Gerd!!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Good morning,

@Dwight - Oh yes... But I'm lucky that it happens in such a eraly stage so it's no big deal to make a new one. I recieved two new cast iron blocks on saturday so I can proceed this week.


@Henner - That's the reason why I posted this picture. At last I had just a fwe of these "Dooh's" but it show's up that nobody is perfect. The big deal for me is, that I've a scrap cylinder to try setting the steam channels before I ruin another cylinder block.


Well, I was pretty down when I noticed that I ruined the work piece, but just for one evening. I'm working on this loco for two and a half year and I can't wait any longer to get the engine running on compressed air. Other very good news arrived me last weekend, as I got notice from my boiler maker that the Shay boiler is actually in work in will be delivered till the end of summer so the first steam up may happen in 2011!!


Cheers, Gerd


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Gerd, 
It is all a good learning curve, your work is very good, but keep some time spare next week so that you can play with my 1:20.3 scale Shay at Ralf's or your Dad's


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hey Rod, 

don't worry, I'll be at Ralf's grand opening on saturday. On sunday, I'll be near Mainz on a public run day at a big 5"-gauge layout. This one will become the biggest 5"-scale layout in the world some day with 4000m of tracks. They started 2 years ago and actually have 800m of tracks laid. 
If you're interested in the big Shay, I can bring some parts to ralf or maybe the whole loco. That's no problem. 

BTW - With some luck, I'll recieve a big parcel today from austria with my pre-birthday present... If so, I'll bring it to Ralf's layout this weekend. 

Some news to the big Shay - I finally got the new cylinders done to the same progress status as the first set. This time, I used the covers as drilling jigs and all holes are alligned. Now I can proceed with some more holes to come. But now, I can and will test all further steps on the old cylinders first. 






















Cheers, Gerd


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd, 
Looking forward to seeing you guys and at the weekend.... keep up the good work.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,


I did some progress on my cylinders. The steam chests are done now and I made the steam ports in the cylinders. I also did the final outline on one of the cylinders and they comming out very nice.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Your last two photos have invalid URLs - in fact, they don't even look like URLs at all to me. Anyway, they are not showing up here.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't know Dwight, they show up fine for me.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

Not for me.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Hey Gerd, I'm excited to see you working on the engine. I've been following along for a while now. It's really looking good. I can see your last two pictures just fine from home and here at work. Keep up the good work.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Just so you can see what I do in Gerd's reply.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve - see your PM.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Good morning,

I don't know why they are not shown here. But you'll find much more detail photos and step-by-step log on my website.
http://www.gerds-modellbahn.de/shay/index_e.htm

Yesterday, I spend some more time and got the cylidners done except for the drain cocks. Now it's time to get the piston and slide valve done.










Cheers, Gerd


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I enjoy seeing your progress! she will be a beauty!!! 

It is also great to see the G scale guys who are building this monster! Reminds us all that this is a FUN project! 

--Eric


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Hey Gerd, I don't know if you saw this other thread but I thought you might be interested since your shay project fits right in. Hope to see you there. 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/4/aft/120694/afv/topic/Default.aspx 

Link to the site : www.livesteamforums.com 

I checked out your site, and I really liked all the extra photos and info about your project. It's very inspiring.


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## jwithro (Jun 8, 2011)

I am totally blown away that people can fabricate stuff of this quality....


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Glad to see continued progress on your shay. It will be a real piece of art!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello folks,

I started work on the cylinder columns and it will take a lot of time to dig them out of soild steel blocks.

First I milled down the top section where the cross head guide will be. The blocks are 40x60mm and I milled them down to 40.5 After that I chucked them on the lathe and turned them to 40mm diameter.



I than start boring the cross head guide bore with 28mm diameter and 95mm deep, but I had bad luck with my tools and the small hole gives you now sight of what you're actually doing... So I decided to mill of the open section first and bore the guide later.










You can see the tapered end of the bore. The ring on top will hold the cylinders. After milling out some areas on the opposite, I will chuck them back on the lathe and turn the cross head guide and cylinder bracket to final dimensions. I hope that all will work well.


BTW, the cylinders are still untested with air since the slide valves are still missing. Maybe I'll take a break on the columns this week to get the parts for the cylinders done.

Cheers, Gerd


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd, 
do you think boring the guide after cutting the slots will work? You have an interrupted cut. You might also have problems if you try to ream your bore. I am curious how you will tackle the problem. Good luck and hopefully no more addition to the scrap box! 
Regards


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Henner,

you'e right with the interrupted cut. But I turned a similar cross head guide for my 5BI steam engine a few years ago and it worked well on this one. I'm looking forward how it will work. To ream the bore is impossible now, that's clear. But I don't have one for 28mm too, so I can live with this point.


The last way to get this done would be to buy a large number of drills to get this job done, but I don't like to spend so much money for just two holes.
Actually, I milled away this section just on one column, so if it will not work, I've to make only one new column. 











Bye, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,

I'm back on my Shay-project and made the first successfull cross head bore. The idea to cut of one section was a bad idea (okay ... i got it) but I got a new one and that works great.
Here's a photo of the first bore with a raw cross head inside. There's also a short clip on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TujYC1p1FBk










I hope to get some more progress done over the weekend.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys, 

I did some more progress while digging the first cylinder collumn out of the steel block. After the cross head bore, I milled away some more sections to get the final shape of the colllumns done. Meanwhile you can see what's in the steel block after removing all surplus material...



















Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Some more progress done. I milled out the side area. The second photo is a preview of the next steps. I marked the hudge area where the crank shaft will spin and that has to be cut away later. But first, I'll mill some more details and other areas on this part.
While using an 8mm ball end mill, I got nice rounded corners and the part looks like cast iron.
































Cheers, Gerd


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Wow Gerd, that's a lot of material to get rid of. How are you going to do it? I would think that a good job for a band saw to rough cut then go in and finish it up nice with the machines. It's really taking shape. Thanks for all the progress shots!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Randy, 

cut out the crank shaft/piston rod area will be one of the last steps on this parts. I bought a band saw some days ago not only for this job, but it will make it a lot easier to handle this. Another way could be to set a row of 10mm holes along the line and cut out the small bars between the holes. But I think the bandsaw will be a good job on this. 

My ordered steel/brass arrived yesterday and the second column is progress. I finished the outside of the rounded part and pre drilled the cross head bore to 23mm. Tomorrow I'll start to turn the bore to 28mm. Once the lathe work is done, it's easy going to get the second one to the same status as the first one. 

I hope to get this two parts done within the next week. Working for hours, just on these two parts is a kind of boring. But soon I can start to add details and other smaller parts to the column and to build the braket to mount the steam engine to the locomotive frame. Originally, the steam engine is mounted to the boiler. Mounting the steam engine to the frame allows to remove the boiler without the engine. I'm also still waiting for the boiler, but I look forward that the boiler will be delivered in 2011. 

That's all for now. I hope to get some more progress shots next week. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys,

the second column takes shape and here's a view of both with the cylinders in place to get a feeling of the final size.
The different hight results from a konger raw cut piece for the second column. When the crank shaft braket is made, the length of these columns will be the same.










Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,

last weekend, I was on a big live steam indoor event and the boiler maker was also there and showned me the boiler for my Shay. It's not finished yet, but will be done within the next weeks. Here's a photo from the test fit on the Shay frame. Looks good so far...

And yes - it feels like christmas for me


















Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

That boiler will do the job just fine. Very deep firebox, tall vertical barrel. Lots of steam capacity.

Looking good Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi, 

got the news today, that the boiler is finished, tested and the boiler certificate is also done. 
The boiler will be shipped to my workshop tomorrow. I can't wait for this :-D 

Once I've the certificate and data sheet, I can post some details about the boiler. 

Bye, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Great news Gerd!! Please post some more photo's too.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

He's here !!!!!!!!!

Got a big and heavy parcel this morning and the sender on the lable was from my boiler maker =)
After unboxing, I made a couple of pictures and you can find them on my homepage in the boiler section.
Here are two of them and some technical data.

The boiler is made from copper and weights 27 lbs.
The capacity is 4.5 l , so you can run the boiler with 3-3.75 l of water.
The maximum pressure is named to be 95 psi.
Heating surface will be 412 square inches and the boiler will run on coal.
There are 13 tubes with 15x1mm each.
The boiler will make 35 lbs of steam per hour (calculated).






















Due to my misstake, the planned smokebox diameter is to small and will not fit... Let's see how I can fix this. Maybe I've to build a new smoke box front section.


Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice, nice, nice!!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys,

another 6 month have passed without any major progress... I had to semi-finish an N-scale layout and at least, my Fn3-scale log train, to get some open issues from my To-Do's ...

But now I'm back on my Shay project with the big goal to get her steamed up for the first time in 2012... Let's see if I can reach this goal.


I made some progress on the cylinder columns and both are on the same status now. It's still a lot of work to do and steel to be removed.
I also started to make the main bracket to get the steam engine mounted to the loco frame.
More details are shown on my website. 











Cheers, Gerd


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Really nice. 4.75" ga.(or 5"? Don't remember what yours is) is perfect for typical backyard operation, and narrow gauge gives you the right amount of scale "bulk".


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello again,

Ray : The loco is runing on 5" gauge and is build in 2" scale.

I did some more progress on the steam engine. The columns are getting their final shape. I just have to make the bearing bore for the crank shaft. But first, I've to build the mounting bracket for the loco frame. Here's a new photo.











I also tested the piston seals with air and shot a short movie clip.



Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys,


last week, I finished the bracket to mount the steam engine to the Shay frame for the first time. It was a big feeling and gives me a lot of motivation to get the steam engine done.

The lower crank shaft brackets are also done, so I can go ahead to install the crank shaft this week. After this step, I'll make the cross heads and piston rods. Than, only the valve gear is missing to get the steam engine run on air.

Here're some new pics. More details are shown on my homepage.

































Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Great progress Gerd!!. That mill set-up in the last photo must have been a booger. It always take 2 hours to set-up for a ten minute job.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Good morning,

in June, I was on vacation in Ireland, but I also spend some time on the steam engine and made good progress...

First of all, I installed the crank shaft and did some roll-tests outside in the back yard to check the clearence of the universal joints.












Later, I added oilers to the crank shaft bearings and run the crank shaft with a drilling maschine until she turns free and smoothly.



Next I made the cross heads and connection rods to install them. While the steam engine was disassembled for some work, I spend some paint to get her dressed.










Now I started with the valve gear stuff, including eccentric straps, link, slide valve, valve rod, and full reverse gear. This will keep me busy for some weeks, until the steam engine is ready to be tested with compressed air.

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello folks, 

I finished the valve and reverse gear the last days and on weekend, I tested the steam engine with air for the first time. The engine runs well like a swiss watch and I just have to do some finishing touches to get the steam engine chapter closed. I quess I cann start with the boiler installation at the end of the month. 



Cheers, Gerd


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

I always love to see a new steam engine come to life. Very nice, Seems to run very strong. What pressure did you have your air set at? Things should really start to take shape now. Thanks for posting!


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Randy, 

the pressure was 2-3 bar (30-40 psi). 
Air isn't steam in the end and the piston seals made from PTFE will seal with hot steam much better than with cold air. 
So let's see how the steam engine will run under steam. But this will take some more weeks of progress. 

Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Good morning,

yesterday in the late evening, I set up all finished parts of the Shay-project to make a new overall photo of the project.
So the things are comming together step by step.
The next days, I'll finish the parts arround the steam engine. Boiler will be next.










Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi,

I got some progess done and finished the reverse gear and the drain cock gear. Now the steam engine chapter is done and I dan bo ahead with the boiler installation. I allready started with the ash pan.
Here're a couple of photos. More details are shown on my website as well.














































Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello guys,

some more progress was done during the last weeks. I finished the ash pan and grate so far. There are some adjustments neede during the final installation on the boiler.
The smoke stack is done too and it's time to get the smoke box started.



















Cheers, Gerd


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd,
you are almost there. Looks really nice! Are the rivets real and if yes, how did you do it? My attempts at riveting mostly fail miserably.
Regards
Henner


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hi Henner,

yes the rivets are real copper rivets. I made some simple riveting tools. I used a ball end mill to make a round sink into a piece of brass. I use this one to keep the rivet head in shape. The other end of the rivet is than hammered flat if not seen later on, or I use a piece of round steel with the same round sink as on the brass block.You can see the tools on the photo below.
It's important that the section of the rivet shaft looking out of the material to be riveted has the correct length. This has to be tried out to get the best one.










Cheers, Gerd


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerd. The valve motion on the air test video looks so smooth and nice. Great job. The stack turned out gorgeous too.

Great job. Can't wait to this engine on the rails.

vr Bob


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Congratulations Gerd! She looks great and seems to run really well. Are you plannng on burning wood or coal - or both?


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Good morning and thanks for the comments.

Dwight, the original plan is to run the Shay on coal. But the fire box is so big, that charcoal or wood should be possible too.
I guess on heavy operation with log trains and long distance runs (on club layouts for example), I'll run her on coal, but will use wood and char coal at home for local short line service. Since my cars are all made from wood, I've a big scrap box of wood to fire the Shay with. And there are plans for a new passenger car too *hehe*

Yesterday I finished the blower nozzle support for the smoke box. Next I'll do the smoke box itself and than it's time to get the boiler wrapped, installed and connected with all the pipes and valves to get the loco ready for her first steam up.





































Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello again,

the smoke box was done yesterday. Some details are missing, but the last big part is finished now. Next I'll wrap the boiler with insulation and jacket.










Cheers, Gerd


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello,

some days back, I added the boiler to the loco. The boiler is wrapped with cork insulation and aluminum jackets.
I added the aux. parts to the boiler and all is painted in black. Still missing is the front boiler saddle and mount, fire door, plulmbing, fittings....

I guess the maiden run will be held next week 




























And here's a small sneak preview of the complete loco as she is today.










Cheers, Gerd


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Wow Gerd, It's starting to look very complete. You are going to be steaming in no time. Keep up the good work.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful! Gerd. I'm jellous. A really great build and I have loved following your progress. Thanks for posting.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Well, I needed more then 30 additional hours to get her ready for steam... But today, the loco was steamed up for the first time and I did some short test runs in the back yard. 

Here's a short video. I'll post details tomorrow and some more photos within the next days. 

http://youtu.be/ImqQfZK02BQ 

Bye, Gerd


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*Wow!* Wish it was mine. Very nice job and thanks for the build log.


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## digger (Jan 2, 2008)

I've been following the build log, and have been impressed with the fine machining work you've done. But it wan't until I saw the vodeo with you getting a ride that I realized how large this model is. It's amazing, and it's beautiful! Very nicely done!


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Beautiful!!!!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Congratulations on your first steaming. I've been there and know it is a great feeling to see all your hard work actually run!!!


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

*Wow Awesome Gerd ! *









It runs quite nicely. I like seeing a few extra pictures of the build in the video. ( like the fire grates and some assembly shots). I also like your facts & numbers at the end of the video. I think your derailment might be due to the short length of your ride car. I think you butt may have slid too far back past the rear truck pivot, lifting the front? I can't wait to start my first ride on some day. Congratulations on creating a beautiful machine!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Had the great privilege of driving my friend's 1.5" scale Shay recently. What a ride!!! Gerd, you will a wonderful time running your engine. The reward is well worth the effort.


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Thank you for the kind words.

Meanwhile I fixed most issues and rebuild the throttle valve so I could steam up the loco for her second run yesterday.
Now the technically part is done and the loco is finsihed so far, except for the detail work like chains, tools, clutter and so on.

Here are a couple of photos of the finished loco.




























Bye, Gerd


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

Really enjoyed seeing your progress, and what a great result! 

Alan


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello Shay friends, 

last weekend, we made a trip to our club layout and did the first long time operation with the new Shay. On 2 days, the loco was steamed up for 7 hours each day. 
The pulling power is amazing. I tested it with a public riding train and 10 adults. No problem for the Shay, even on the grades. Mayxbe there're some more passengers possible. 

On Saturday evening, the axle water pump failed due to a broken link between the plunger and the eccentric. I tried to fix it but it doesn't work well. Therefor we run the Shay on injector only on Sunday without any problems. The boiler is a good steam maker and very handy. I've to add an air flap at the ash pan to regulate the air flow to the fire. A working spark arrestor will be a good addition too. 

Anyway, the loco runs great, smooth and powerfull. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CQqAUvq9lk&feature=g-upl 

Bye, Gerd


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Gerd,
looking at the video you guys are hunkering down when driving. Do you do this to reduce wind resistance at high speed







? Just kidding. This is a great loco and Ephraim Shay would be proud of it (of course you should be proud too).
Congratulations,


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Well, how to get on top speed against the wind? *hehe* 
The real problem is, that the controls are so far away from the drivers seat. But I don't like to lengthen the levers and throttle like I've seen on other locomotives. 

Thanks for the kind words. Meanwhile I fixed the problems from the last operation day and rebuild the brake valve. When the weather is fine, we'll go for another operation day on Sunday to test the improvements. 

Bye, Gerd


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