# Recommend basic DCC system?



## cswinton (Dec 16, 2014)

I'm wanting to upgrade my underpowered 1.6amp analog speed controller / transformer and am considering a digital system (DCC). My locomotive does support DCC (2014 model Piko). I've had one dealer recommend the Digitrax Zephyr Xtra Starter Set but I'm concerned it has output voltage limited at ~14V and seems more geared towards smaller scale setups. That said, I am only planning on a single train configuration for the foreseeable future. Thoughts?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Large scale DCC systems are usually 21 volts or more.
Some of my engines had 18 volt lights and smoke units so more voltage would be needed.
And my system is 8 amps plus my next one would be over 10 amps thus never needing a booster.


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## Dennis Cherry (Feb 16, 2008)

It depends on the type of engines you are using, If you have mostly LGB, hartland or Bachmann the a 16-18 volt system @ 5 amps will work for you with 1-3 engines.

Aristrocraft and USA Trains are power hogs and need the 21-24 volts at 10 amps boosters.

I have a Lenz 5 amp booster right now with 4 engines running on one test track, So far I have not come close to maxing out this booster with sound also. My engines are Bachmann Shays (2), Climax, and 2-4-4 Porter, an Accucraft Goose and a couple of lighted cabooses. 

All of these engines top speed is fine at 12 volts max, but have it the Lenz set of 16.5 volts. BTW the smoke units use 12 volts.

I will be adding another 5 amp booster in the near future.

I am wireless with the Android phones and laptop using the Lenz USB/Ethernet unit. Works great.

Dennis


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I never recommend a "basic" system unless it can grow. When you go DCC, the cost of the control system is the smallest part of your investment, but it seems to be the one part that people try to cut costs on.

The top systems in the US are NCE and Digitrax, get at least 5 amps, but I really would not waste my time and go right to 10 amps. You can build a 10 amp system cheaply, and the power supply will cost you $70. I use NCE because I like the throttles and menus better and their wireless cabs work well.

There are some nice systems from Europe, but almost double the price and not as easy to use in my opinion. (Also a black and white LCD is much easier to see in the sunlight)

Regards, Greg


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Also consider what features you want (or might want): throwing switches, remote uncoupling, sounds.

And how compatible the system is with brands you have or might get.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ummn... all DCC systems should be able to operate accessory decoders (switches, etc.), I would NEVER recommend a system that could not do all the standard DCC commands.

And compatibility? Other than supporting the really old LGB serial functions / 14 speed steps, this is not an issue.

I'm a little surprised at the comments, I believe you have a Digitrax, right?

The big deal with DCC is the compatibility, buying any system that has compatibility issues is almost impossible to do. (other than the aforementioned really old stuff that was marketed as MTS not DCC) 

Regards, Greg


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

NCE does seem to be a leader in the US. It can grow if you start with a 5 AMP system, same throttles will work if you add boosters or go to 10 AMPs Personally I find it easier to learn than Digitrax, it is often found in "N" and HO.


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## SRLGBer (Dec 31, 2014)

I recently had to face the same problem. I have 3 LGB analog locos and a newly purchased LGB DCC Allegra rail car set. With some LGB isolating tracks, EPL controls added to the LGB electric switch machines, I have a wiring solution to have dead sections controlled by the LGB switches to make parking tracks for the analog locos so that I can run the Allegra train on DCC for sounds and other effects. The system I went with is the PIKO DCC central station, wireless receiver and wireless hand Navigator control. I have the wireless switch decoders to control my 23 switches. So far, I'm pleased. I did have some problems with an intermittent electrical connection in a PIKO switch and a bad control board in the DCC station which PIKO quickly replaced. So, I can run the DCC loco, park it at a station, select an analog loco, throw the switch and power that loco onto sidings, main line and park on another controlled siding and select another analog loco for a run, park it on another controlled siding and go back to the digital loco to return to its home station.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

It would be wise to upgrade your DC engines to DCC. If you run a DC engine on DCC the motor is getting power when not turning and can burn out windings as the motor impedance when not turning is at a minimum and can heat up. My system will run one DC engine, and I have several but I have never run a DC engine on my DCC system. I can switch my track form DCC to DC via a DPDT center off toggle switch.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

I built in the ability to switch each of my main loops between analog and digital. Can even cut power to a loop for live stream. Eventually will convert electric engines to DCC


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

*Piko DCC System*



SRLGBer said:


> I recently had to face the same problem. I have 3 LGB analog locos and a newly purchased LGB DCC Allegra rail car set. With some LGB isolating tracks, EPL controls added to the LGB electric switch machines, I have a wiring solution to have dead sections controlled by the LGB switches to make parking tracks for the analog locos so that I can run the Allegra train on DCC for sounds and other effects. The system I went with is the PIKO DCC central station, wireless receiver and wireless hand Navigator control. I have the wireless switch decoders to control my 23 switches. So far, I'm pleased. I did have some problems with an intermittent electrical connection in a PIKO switch and a bad control board in the DCC station which PIKO quickly replaced. So, I can run the DCC loco, park it at a station, select an analog loco, throw the switch and power that loco onto sidings, main line and park on another controlled siding and select another analog loco for a run, park it on another controlled siding and go back to the digital loco to return to its home station.


Since you mentioned using the Piko DCC system, thought I'd share my experience with it, too. I started out with the Piko Central Station (CS) four years ago for my small indoor layout and it works great. I've since bought the Massoth DCC System with up to 12 amp capacity for future expansion of my outdoor railway. Of course, the Piko DCC system and components are made by Massoth Germany for Piko, so the components are interchangable, e.g., the wireless receivers. I continue to use the Piko CS for programming decoder CVs in locos. Even though the Piko CS can be powered by either an AC or DC 5 amp max power supply, it's preferable to use DC power. I contacted Piko America Technical Support about power supplies and they advised me to be careful about which one to use on the Piko CS. Some unregulated power supplies can have periodic voltage spikes above 24 volts, and those over 5 amps, can blow the Piko CS and void the warranty. Piko America mentioned that some LGB 50111 AC power supplies have blown the Piko CS due to voltage spikes. 

For huge layouts, up to five Piko Boosters powered by five separate 5 amp power supplies can be connected and controlled by one Piko CS. Each track section powered by a Piko Booster must be isolated from all other track sections. I tried this out on the two track loops on my outdoor layout, one loop powered by the Piko CS and a 5 amp DC transformer, and the other loop powered by a Piko Booster and another 5 amp DC transformer. The two loops are connected by LGB track switches but are have LGB track isolators between the two loops. When a DCC decoder-equipped loco crosses from one loop to the other, there's a completely smooth transition as if the entire track system was electrically connected. Of course, correct polarity wiring of the Central Station and the Booster to the two track loops is critical!

Although most of my locomotives have DCC decoders installed, I still have several in my upgrade que to convert, such as a USA Trains J1e Hudson with Phoenix sound. But in the mean time, I can run it on the outer loop by DC/Analog power, and run DCC power on the inner loop. However, to play it safe, I place a physical barrier across the switches between the two loops to prevent any accidental "operator error" of locomotives crossings between the DC powered and DCC powered tracks.

I also concur with Dan, I'd never run a DC/Analog locomotive on DCC power. I've tried it using an old LGB powered tender and the motor has a constant high pitched buzzing noise when sitting or moving.


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