# New to Battery/rc



## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

Would like to upgrade my engines to battery/rc during the upcoming months, looking at 7 engines min. , What would be the cheapest way to make them rc with one controller?? thoughts and opinions appreciated different systems however $$$ is tight so looking for cheap alternatives if anyone has any. Don't care where it's made or what species makes it for that matter..

1- usa - sw2
2 - blockman - 10 wheelers 4-8-0
4 - aristicrap rs3, u23b, fa a+b
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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Here are a few components you might consider: G-Scale Graphics Basic RailBoss ($69 ea.), Hobby King 6 Ch Tx and Rx ($23), additional Rx's $9 ea. Add a battery of your choice and an on/off switch and you are all [email protected] url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

A few questions. First, when you say "one controller," are you looking to run them simultaneously from that one controller, are you looking to group them together (such as your FA/B), etc? Also, are you looking to want to control sounds, etc? 

But in terms of cost, here's what I'd look at: 

Cheapest - Either G-Scale Graphics' "Railboss" (mentioned above) or Tony Walsham's (RCS Australia--the original) PROFessional ESC. Both systems use off-the-shelf 2.4 gHz radios. The transmitter is the savings here. You can get a 2.4 gHz transmitter for as little as $25. You'll need a receiver and throttle for each loco, which will run you between $80 - $130ish depending on which throttle and receiver you buy. Total cost for 7 locos using lowest-price products, $585. I don't know how these systems work in terms of running multiple locos at the same time, either as a consist or individually. Both manufacturers frequent these forums and will readily answer your questions. 

A bit more expensive, but improved functionality and flexibility - Aristo-Craft's "Revolution" control system. You'll buy the transmitter and one receiver in as set for c. $240 or so, and then additional receivers will run you around $85ish per loco depending on where you get them. You can also buy the receivers in 6-packs for additional savings. Cost for 7 locos as low as $680. 

Airwire sits at the top of the food chain in terms of price, with transmitters going for $160 and $140 for each receiver. Cost for 7 locos - $1140. 

If the choice were mine, I'd probably go with the Aristo Revolution stuff. It's not the lowest-end price, but I like the small handheld transmitter, its graphic display, and the fact that you can store up to 50 locos on one transmitter, then run them either individually or group them in consists. You can use the accessory controls to turn lights or smoke units on and off if you're not using sound, or you could use the accessory triggers to run the sound system (or both). Range is good, and it's just a good value for the price. I have nothing against Del's or Tony's stuff, except that I really don't like having to carry around a big 2-stick transmitter to run my trains. I spent the better part of 10 years doing that when I first started with R/C, and the handheld transmitter is just sooo much easier to use. 

The Airwire stuff's worth the money if you're doing high-level sound systems, but for simple motor control when cost is a primary consideration, the other options are better. 

Later, 

K


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By East Broad Top on 01 Mar 2012 12:26 PM 
... nothing against Del's or Tony's stuff, except that I really don't like having to carry around a big 2-stick transmitter to run my trains. ...

Kevin - I'll be the first to agree with you that a smaller Tx is better than a larger Tx, but it really depends on how you operate your railroad. Personally, I usually use the automation mode of the RailBoss systems that I make, so once I get the train in motion, I turn off the Tx and just set it down nearby. The only time I really need the Tx is starting and ending my train session, or to blow the whistle on command once in awhile.


During more active operations, throttle can be done one handed, direction change requires two (momentarily). And yes you can't carry it around in your pocket. But it's really not a big deal. The hobby radios now are still rather bulky, but they are lightweight since they use fewer batteries than they use to (not to mention they are low cost and available at your local hobby shop).


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

........and not only that, because Digital Proportional servo outputs are more or less exactly the same for any brand of R/C, if you don't like the brand of radio you select, you can change to another brand and simply plug the on board battery powered ESC into the new RX and use the different brand. 

With proprietary systems such as Revolution, Locolinc, G-Wire and Air Wire you are stuck with them if you don't like them.


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## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

Del how many of the Basic RailBoss can be run on one controller?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Many of us who knew nothing, started out with a simple battery car with RC unit in it. then we bought a 2nd unit.oner for steam engines and one for modern. we learned how to wire each unit to adapt to the battery car so everything is inner changeable. (using Aristo engines as the example of plug and play.
then has we learned and decided to envest more money into fancier sytemes that could do more things. 
the learning curve is important. 
other wise frustration with all the different oppions will set in.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By D-n-H - Kirkville Branch on 01 Mar 2012 06:42 PM 
Del how many of the Basic RailBoss can be run on one controller? 
With both the Basic RailBoss and the RailBoss Plus, you can link your transmitter to an unlimited number of receivers (locos), and you can control any two of them at the same time using the Ch 5 switch on the Tx. MUing is also easy. Just leave the Ch 5 switch in the same position and turn on the two locos you want to MU.


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## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

So if i get this right I would need 

G-Scale Graphics Basic RailBoss ($69 ea.) x7 = $483 

Hobby King 6 Ch Tx and Rx ($23) 

additional Rx's $9 ea. x6 = 54 

$560 min investment to do all plus battery packs, doesn't appear that the railboss offers track power option?? would a toggle (off/battery/track) work or is the board itself not able to do track power??


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

If you know how to do some wiring and have a basic understanding of electronic stuff, you can make the engine run from either battery or track power using the radio control . The control board needs to have the positive and negative voltage wired correctly, which is no problem for battery power, but for track power, you don't always know the polarity. To solve that problem, you pit a bridge rectifier in the wiring that runs from the track power pickup to the selector switch for battery/ track power. That way, no matter what the track polarity is, it's always the same going to the control board. Then you just need to turn up the track power to the same voltage as the battery that you use, and the engine will perform the same, as long as you have good contact with the track for power. 
That's what I'm doing with my Bachmann 0-4-0, now that I have the RC part working.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

All of the current model RCS ESC's will run on constant track voltage and or battery power. 
Plus RCS offers a Plug'n'Play version for locos such as Bachmann and AristoCraft that are equipped with the standard PnP socket.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By D-n-H - Kirkville Branch on 01 Mar 2012 07:51 PM 
So if i get this right I would need 

G-Scale Graphics Basic RailBoss ($69 ea.) x7 = $483 

Hobby King 6 Ch Tx and Rx ($23) 

additional Rx's $9 ea. x6 = 54 

$560 min investment to do all plus battery packs, doesn't appear that the railboss offers track power option?? would a toggle (off/battery/track) work or is the board itself not able to do track power?? 

My products are not designed to run on track power. I have had customers that do so via a bridge rectifier, or commitment to never change the polarity of the track voltage, etc., but I have never done testing on track power, nor do I plan on doing so. In addition to a bridge rectifier, you may also need a very large capacitor or bank of capacitors. (for example the Revo capacitor bank that is the size of a battery pack). All of these components take up space and cost money. It is also very common for the first battery conversion to want that "Track/Batttery" switch. I guess that gives the user assurance that they can always go back to track power if they need to. Again, more components and increased work to do the conversion. (You won't go back)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm a track power guy, but I agree with Del, once you have a battery setup you like, you won't return to track power. Many people ask to have this feature, but it's my experience is that it is not often used. If your battery setup works well, you would probably use it that way, even on a track powered layout. 

The less wiring, switches and points of failure the better. 

Regards, Greg


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

I run six engines from one battery car,(one or two ) at a time. Been doing that for 10 years works just fine for me.
I have about $300.00 in to my set up. (Air Wire)


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## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

Del 

I like the idea of the controllers your system uses because I have a 11 year old son that has 2 engines and this would be perfect for both of us to run together for the least amount of money. Doing this with Aristo revo would be expensive to buy the 2 controllers and my luck my son will soon lose interest and that's a lot for a back up controller. I included a little info on how I plan to run the engines I have so that you can advise what to buy, they are listed in the order that they would be completed. 

Here is what i'd like to do to test rc/battery: 

I have a kitbashed built RS-3m dummy engine that I would like to make into a power/battery car, I would then lash it up to a RS-3 that is already plug n play. the rs3m is hollow and has plenty of room for everything I believe. The Rs3 has a track/off/battery switch prebuilt into it I shouldn't have to modify this is that correct? 

I also have a rs-3 QSI sound board that I'd like in the rs3m ( I will be running a lash up of Rs3m,rs3,rs11,rs36 the all sound similar) 

Can your system run both the power to the rs3 P-N-P and run the sound on the Qsi board? 

What would i need to buy to make this situation work besides battery and the Hobby King 6 Ch Tx and Rx. 

The other engines that I'd be doing as I can scrape money from somewhere would be: 

The 2 Bachman big wheelers would be installed in tenders and should also be an easy hook up from what i'm reading on your site 2(RailBoss and an additional Rx) I assume that the sound P-N-P would not need any modification and I would only have to take off track power wires and make a MU for the engine. 

I have a USA trains sw2 (modified to look like an S8) this thing is an power sucking monster, i believe i can get batteries in the fuel tank and make this one self reliant, anything special that I would need to do for USA? 

The next engine lash up would be almost the same except no sound board (Fa 1 aba the b is dummied and would be the power car, the second a is also dummied) so this ones pretty easy it looks like just the RailBoss and an additional Rx for this set. I'd need to make the fa lead engine into a P-n-P and remove the track pick ups.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Can your system run both the power to the rs3 P-N-P and run the sound on the Qsi board? 
You're not going to be able to trigger the sounds on the QSI board with Del's system (or most others, for that matter). I'm not even certain it will operate properly in "analog" mode with a PWM (pulse-width modulation) output from Del's controller. I'm pretty sure the QSI needs a linear voltage input to operate in analog mode. (Might double-check with the instructions. Don't quote that as Gospel.) If you want to run the QSI board via battery R/C, you're going to need the G-wire transmitter and plug-in receiver from QSI. I don't think anyone mentioned that combination because the QSI boards have been out of production for about a year, and its replacement has been "4 weeks out" for about 9 months. (You also made no mention of sound, so we took that out of the equation for cost considerations.) 

The good news is that because the QSI boards have been out of production for a bit over a year now, and you can definitely find someone to buy it! Then use that money for a Dallee sound system (if you're on a budget), a used Sierra system (check ebay), or a Phoenix system (kinda cuts against the "cheapest" aspect of your equation.) They'll work with Del's system very nicely. 

Later, 

K


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

and don't forget MyLocoSound. I agree with Kevin's assessment above. DnH, I'll be glad to answer the rest of your questions off-line. [email protected]@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll buy the old qsi if it goes up for sale 

Greg


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## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

Greg sent you an email about the qsi


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