# Resistor at the wheels on LGB 2080S?



## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

There is a round and flat resistor looking thing near the wheels on one side of my LGB 2080S. I have some spares that were included with the train. When it's removed the train doesn't move. What's is this for, and when do I change it?
BTW my 2080 is much much slower than the 2020.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Resistors are rarely round and flat, how about a picture? 

You can email me the picture and I will post it... send it in as high resolution as you can.. 

Regards, Greg


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

i don't know how to attach a picture to the forum... but try this..

lgb-resistor-1.jpg[/b]










lgb-resistor-2.jpg[/b]


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think I need to see it closer and in better focus... 

I believe I see where they are in the first picture, are they connected to anything? 

Greg


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

I don't know what they are connected to on the inside. It plugs in to a socket like an old computer crystal. If you remove it, the train doesn't move. 

LOL. You force me to put down the iPhone and get the Nikon.  Try these images, they're much better...

DSC_1981.jpg










DCS_1982.jpg










DSC_1986.jpg










My '84(ish) 2080S seems slower than it used to. Maybe it's the sound board woes, or this resistor thing slowing it down. I'm wondering if I could just remove it and short this out?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That is wild! 

Some LGB expert will know what those sockets are for! 

Did you measure these? They LOOK like a thermistor, do they have any resistance? 

So there is a "2 pin socket" between the 1st and 2nd driver on the right side. 

This side only, right, and only this socket. 

Can you measure the resistance and if there is resistance, try putting it in hot water and then see if the resistance changes. 

I find it hard to believe that this is a "stock" setup... but I'm not an expert on this loco... 

Very interesting. 

Greg


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)




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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So Steve, what do your think? 

Any LGB guys out there can confirm or deny this is a "stock" socket? 

Greg


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg

'Thermistor' was my first reaction also, but that was only a reaction to the visual aspects of the component, and I don't know much of anything about LGB. I would bet that Knut (MLS - krs) would know if it's factory OEM or a modification.

Additionally, in looking through the LGB exploded parts diagram I don't see any thing similar.

Service Parts Diagram / Spare Parts List PDF[/b]

Nor do I see anything after a quick look at the User Guide (English for 2080D / 2080S start on p-16 bottom right).

User Guide PDF[/b]


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Same opinion here Steve, looks like one, but why? Would be a weird place to put one, if you wanted to sense overheating... a hot box detector? hahahaha! 

Had some wild thoughts about hall effect sensor, to sense valve gear motion, but then why would loco not move? That does not compute. Also never seen one look like that. 

Same logic for reed switch... 

Obviously not diode, since it would have been put in backwards at least once by now. 

It will be interesting once the mystery is solved. 

Greg


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

take a multimeter and see if it has any resistance. seems to me it would most likely be a resistor 

it may be a sensor perhaps to make trains STOP when they reach an area with a magnet?


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

The socket is only on the one side of the train. It's surely stock since I bought the train new from Allied Trains California in the early 80s and am first owner. I'm guessing the later models don't have this weird part, since they have more modern electronics.

I thought it was for magnets too, but it's not like a reed switch at all and this train is from the mechanical sound activation era. There are two mechanical buttons on bottom of the loco and it uses 6 or 8" plastic strips between the tracks to activate the horn and bell. 


I thought I saw a picture somewhere showing how to replace it with needle nose pliers. It's not incredibly convenient... but at least it's on the outside of the train. I measured the resistance, it's about 40 ohms. How do I know if this part is bad and what's it for? Can I just short it out?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Like I said, try measuring it cold and after being in hot water, that will tell you what it is. 

Does it measure same resistance no matter which "polarity" you measure it with? 

"can I just short it out" ??? Sure... Kind of like asking can I take a gun that might be unloaded and point it at my head and pull the trigger?









(well, that's a little more extreme example, in this case you might just be "killing" your loco!









Without knowing the function why would you risk this?









Let's find out what it is.
















Greg


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ok your gun story is pretty funny! I used a blow dryer on it. When it's room temperature it's about 40. When it's warmed it's about 25ohms. So the resistance goes down when it warms. Is it trying to detect outdoor snowy conditions and apply more power? 


I looked at the manuals you guys posted. I think these are too new to apply to this train. It does show the mechanical sound activation strip through. But... I'm noticing that the instructions say not to use a pulse transformer! Whoops. I have a pulse switch on my controller and I sometimes use it.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, if it was mine, I would probably take it apart and see what the heck is wired to it. 

Looks like it is a thermistor... but why the heck? 

This is a good one... also, I guess it could be wired in series with the motor, but kind of small to take all the current... (yes, LGB experts, I do know they don't draw a lot of current).... 

If you don't want to take it apart to verify how it is wired, you could pull the thermistor out, and measure with an ohmmeter from one "socket" to one driver, and the other to the other driver. 

My idea would be to verify that it is connected in series between motor and track... 

You know, it could also be an MOV type device, like a surge limiter... could be so that it starts slowly when power is turned on, so to smooth out an auto reversing track, you know where a circuit runs a train back and forth on a track..... 

A MOV type device (Metal Oxide Varistor) might just do the trick.. 

If you turn the power on BANG! does it take right off, or a bit slowly? Might be hard to tell... 

Comments, ideas guys? (Where is George Schreyer hiding?) 

Greg


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## Pterosaur (May 6, 2008)

I think you are on to something Greg, with the MOV theory...But I have never heard of a factory equiped LGB loco with one. I have seen them used in circuits outside the loco to prevent the "power surge". I gotta admit, this one has me as curious as the proverbial cat!


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## Pterosaur (May 6, 2008)

"Inrush" thermistor... Page 2

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/114722/afv/topic/Default.aspx


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I replace MOV's on micro-controller boards semi-regularly. Anywho they look just like the gadget pictured above, albeit that one looks a little rough. An MOV is variable resistor which mimics a capacitor and current flows in one direction. 

Nonlinear current-voltage characteristics 
Low voltages < high resistance 
High voltages >low resistance 

Michael


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, then maybe a MOV is what it is. If you click the following link it will take you to the GartenBahn DataBase home page with the Google search engine in translate mode. The site has an English mode but not every thing has an English translation, but using Google in this manner will take care of that.

Anyway, on the home page under Steam Locomotives (266), click the Germany link, after the Germany page displays in the frame, click the Resin (21) link, after the Resin page displays in the frame, scroll down to the bottom of the page, where you'll find the LGB 2080S (Erhard) picture click the image, and in the 'Description' area (translated I hope) just below the picture in the second sentence you'll see mention made about a capacitor in the wheel area.

GartenBahn DataBase[/b]


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Since MOV's flow current/voltage in one direction only (like diodes) and the unknown component looks much like an MOV and or a Thermsitor were probably talking about a an inrush current limiting Thermsitor. Makes sense as resistance is HIGH when cool and LOW when warm, it’s all good for the implementaion of soft starts… 

Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It's some kind of nonlinear resistive device is my guess.... not hung up on the name... 

"Description: First execution of the 2080S hn skull on the water tank. The series is also available in a well to recognize in the wheel area lying capacitor which accounted for later. The sound module is bonded into a plastic box and is in the rear cab, under the coal. The bell is a metal hood, under which a motor drives a mechanism with which proposes a mallet against the hood. It is located in the boiler. The engine is very loud and clearly audible. 

So this says a capacitor... but does not say what it is... 

Wow, still a bit of mystery, but if it has 40 ohms and the loco does not run without it, it is probably not a capacitor. 

Now, what the heck did it do on the original loco? 

Curiouser and Curiouser 

Greg


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## gtrainman (Jan 5, 2008)

What ever the little part is, It is not from the Lehman LGB factory, that is to the be of my knowledge.
It is not an LGB electronic part.
It appears that someone had done some aftermarket electronics work on that loco.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I know these things well. 

They look like the little contact pads that sit between the brushes on LGB 6 wheel split style gearboxes.

No idea why the one is stuck in the two bushings on the side of the loco...I just checked, my 1979/80ish vintage 2080 does not have one stuck there....


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

....and yes, a 2080S/D will be much slower than a 2020 type motorblock due to gearing.


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

With a probability of 99.999999999% this is non-LGB. Having seen 1000s of LGB engines (and some pretty old ones as well) I can say I have never seen any of those babies.

Since they seem to sit inline to the power pickup, just bridge them with stragiht wire.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Axel

While I don't doubt your knowledge, but in this instance I have to disagree with your advice. Mainly because as far as I understand what the question was "what is this thing" not that the locomotive was operating improperly in any way could this be the cause. I'd just leave things as they are, then if something goes wrong, first try replacing the one installed with another of the spares, if that doesn't resolve the problem then maybe try shorting it across to see what happens.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Axel, go to the web site as described above, it does clearly indicate the "capacitor" on the side of the loco... 

The translation from German was: "The series is also available in a well to recognize in the wheel area lying capacitor which accounted for later" 

It seems optional, but there's not enough explanation. Maybe if you read the original German? 

Greg


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

Further research of various German blogs shows that only the original series of the 2080S had this capacitor which was to suppress any potential RFI resulting from.... without measuring I have to assume from the power pick up. (Background: In the 1970s the RFI regulations in Germany were extremely tense, just a few years later everything was a little bit more relaxed. That's why you don't even see any capacitors in the explosion diagrams - they were left out before the diagram were drawn).

But what is confusing that our owner says that when he removes the capacitors the engines stops running. Capacitors are not normally in-line put parallel to the load, hence its removal wouldn't stop the motor. So if they are somehow inline to the power lines (measure with Ohm meter) then remove them and bridge them (sorry I stand by this opinion-because all of the later models didn't have this capacitor and they are running fine as they are) or if they are bridging the load then just leave the capacitors out, and your engine should run fine, unless it has a different pickup problem that needs to be investigated.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting stuff, thanks!


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Axel-
It must be an OEM LGB part since I'm the original owner. Train has never even been out of my possession since I bought it new about 30 years ago. Maybe it's just a really early example of the 2080S.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Spule4-

Is yours the S?

Btw. I'm learning a lot on these forums! I didn't know there was different gearing on trains of the same general model. That makes me wonder if some people who are interested in pulling long trains might be re-gearing their trains for lower speeds and more torque!


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Greg- You said thermistor. I thought those were for measuring temperature, but I looked it up on wikipedia and there is a description that's similar to the measurements I took. Specifically resistance goes down when heated. It sounds like the opposite of a self resetting fuse.

"NTC thermistors can be used as inrush-current limiting devices in power supply circuits. They present a higher resistance initially which prevents large currents from flowing at turn-on, and then heat up and become much lower resistance to allow higher current flow during normal operation. These thermistors are usually much larger than measuring type thermistors, and are purposely designed for this application."

Maybe it's for the self reversing tracks you mentioned. Or so it can sit and smoke at low voltage? Silly it's on my loco and not everyone elses.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 13 Dec 2010 01:45 AM 
Silly it's on my loco and not everyone elses. 


I have them all over my layout whereever trains stop automatically. I put them right into the wiring rather than in the engines.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 13 Dec 2010 01:26 AM 
Spule4- Is yours the S? Btw. I'm learning a lot on these forums! I didn't know there was different gearing on trains of the same general model. That makes me wonder if some people who are interested in pulling long trains might be re-gearing their trains for lower speeds and more torque! No, the gearing is factory. The 3 axle units use an idle gear in the drives Vs the 2020 type blocks. Now, the OLD locos use a different gear size on the drive wheels....I have pix on my Flickr account, but cannot get the site to pull up now.

Mine was an S, but it is now a D. Mine, like a few of my LGB locos is a "reko". It was rough when I got it, but is a nice loco now, if a bit too modern for my needs.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I just worked on 2 2080S engines and do not remember seeing this part. 

Thursday I get to look at another 2080S and will verify if this device is present (or lack of it) of this device.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

toddalin-


Are you saying that you're installing these NTC devices on your 10153 insulated track sections? Is that supposed to slow the stop of the train on a red, or retard the speed up of the train on a green light (or both)? Do you have any diagrams on how you're setting this up - it sounds really nice! I was noticing tonight how on a long train how the abrupt stop at a red signal sends all the carts whacking the cars in front even at pretty low speed. What parts are you actually installing (I'm assuming it's not an LGB part) and where are you getting them?


Thanks


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are the gear pix Chata68... 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3313398884/ 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3313398052/ 

Note the black gears are the older ones, dating from the early 1970s and replaced by the white ones, and the gear on the middle axle is not correct, just showing sizes. 

An idler gear is used in these three axle blocks, you can see the bushings for them at 10:00 on the front and 2:00 on the rear axles. The bushings for the motor are at 12:00 on the front and rear, this is where the small "b'b" fits. 

The actual topic of the pictures is how to "rebush" LGB motorblocks when they wear out.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 24 Dec 2010 12:26 AM 
toddalin-


Are you saying that you're installing these NTC devices on your 10153 insulated track sections? Is that supposed to slow the stop of the train on a red, or retard the speed up of the train on a green light (or both)? Do you have any diagrams on how you're setting this up - it sounds really nice! I was noticing tonight how on a long train how the abrupt stop at a red signal sends all the carts whacking the cars in front even at pretty low speed. What parts are you actually installing (I'm assuming it's not an LGB part) and where are you getting them?


Thanks




I have lots of places where trains automatically stop to "leap frog," to receive service at the water tower/coal hopper and diesel tank, and at crossings where different trains come together and stop to avoid collision. The feeder wires to these "stop blocks" have the "NTC devices," and in some cases, additional diodes or resistors in series to slow the trains before stopping and to provide a more gentle start. A by-pass switch by-passes these devices in the event that the trains are not going to be called on to stop. 

The difference in start speed with the NTC is hardly notable and is more to protect the gears and relay contacts. One 2.5 ohm NTC device will slow a train, just slightly, but noticably.

The NTC devises are available through Goldmine Electronics (2.5 ohm) and Allelectronics (5 ohms).

Goldmine 2.5 ohm, 6.5 amp In-Rush Thermistor

Allelectronics 5 ohm, 7 amp In-Rush Thermistor


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

It seems like an NTC would slow a train at start up only. To slow down you'd have to engage at the appropriate time on an PTC. 

What are the specifications on the resistors you're using to slow trains? I tried some years back and ended up melting the 1015U block! They must have been underrated.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 24 Dec 2010 07:58 PM 
It seems like an NTC would slow a train at start up only. To slow down you'd have to engage at the appropriate time on an PTC. What are the specifications on the resistors you're using to slow trains? I tried some years back and ended up melting the 1015U block! They must have been underrated. 

No. Even after the initial "gradual" hit, the device still puts 2.5, or 5 ohms, in series and this will slow the trains when they enter that block. I find that slowing associated with the 2.5 ohm devices will be "just noticable" with most USA/AristoCraft diesels.

One thermistor will slow the starts and ease the load on the gear train, but the starts will not "appear" as nice slow, gradual starts as you get with a dedicated circuit. Two 2.5 ohm thermistors in series will further enhance the effect and the start will appear a little more gradual with a greater speed reduction. I've not tried the 5 ohm devices.

In some areas, I augment the devices using back-to-back pairs of 6 amp diodes with each pair providing ~0.7 volt reduction. In some cases I use as many as 12 pair to get a reduction of ~8.4 volts. But this drop is not instantaneous and in these instances, the train slows in three stages before stopping.

In other areas I augment these devices with a simple 20 watt 4 ohm resistor typically used in speaker crossover networks. When using the resistors, the slowing is more dependant on the engine and load which is OK with me as each train behaves a bit differently.

Like most of my projects, it all depends on what I have at hand and what is on sale through Internet surplus at the time.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Slowing with diode voltage drops instead of resistance - that's interesting. Id have to think about what the differences really are.

20 watt is pretty big, like one of those ceramics they used to use on RC cars. Or one of those metal cans with fins!

I should drop some of these NTC things onto my signal controlled track and see what happens.

Also if I pull the NTC clean off the 2080s, it sounds like I'll get a speed increase, since even once warm they have some resistance.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Admittidlly, 20 watts is way overkill and it never even gets warm, but they were only 2/$1. (These are the big "sand" resistors.)

If you remove the device from your LGB, you should be able to replace it with a simple jumper wire.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

And there it is! A jumper wire, in all it's glory. Seems to work, and doesn't get hot like the old NTC part did. I haven't tried it on the track to see if the locomotive is faster or slower yet, since I'm still in the middle of rebuilding the old analog sound board.

I didn't split the case so I couldn't see exactly where the NTC's socket is wired in... but once I had the top of the brick off, I could see that the NTC seemed to be connected between these two large strips of copper. See the big plate with the screw and the solder blob? And the other above it that appears not to be connected to it? When I take out the jumper there is no continuity between the plates (and no motor power). I'd bet on newer 2080S models there isn't a physical gap here (since there is no NTC or socket for it).


Oh, BTW. My bench power supply current limits at 0.5 Amps. And I hit that at only 5v input to the motor. Is that normal?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I am able to run dual motor LGB engines on the old 7va supply (which equates to about 1/2 amp supply). 

If you hit 1/2 amp at 5 volts, then there is something wrong, usually the motor, 

Try removing the motor and just hooking power up to it.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

So you can drive it all the way to 15v and you're still under 1/2 amp?

Yes, there is pretty much zero current draw when the motor is out.

I just measured the motor while it's out... resistance is about 9 ohms. Seems a bit low. What's the typical value?

Looks like the 2080 takes a 3/4" short shaft motor, such as 
http://www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/62201.html


Will a new motor even have the correct worm gear for an older train? Someone on the forum was saying there were new and old style gears. 


I was going to ask about the external balls that I almost lost taking out the motor, but I just read this in the motor instructions from onlytrains.com "Some older LGB models have motors with external ball bearings. However, the replacement motors (62201 and 62204) for those models have internal ball bearings. Do not reinstall the external balls when using the replacement motors. The external balls will damage the internal bearings."


Thanks!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have replaced motors on several 2080's and they were the short shaft 62201 motors. 

Be sure to remove the small balls at each end of the shaft as the new motors do not need thrust bearings, these are built into the new motors.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

I will remove the external ball bearings. I hope the new motor has a compatible worm gear? Is there anywhere other than onlytrains.com to buy a replacement motor?



So back to the "resistor at the wheels".... the reason this thing was getting hot and going bad is that my motor was bad! Drawing too much current in the first place! I looked inside the motor, it's got junk all over the commutator. Maybe a mixture of gear box grease, smoke fluid, and dust from the bearings and brushes. Too bad I can't just clean it.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 30 Dec 2010 01:54 PM 
I will remove the external ball bearings. I hope the new motor has a compatible worm gear? Is there anywhere other than onlytrains.com to buy a replacement motor?



So back to the "resistor at the wheels".... the reason this thing was getting hot and going bad is that my motor was bad! Drawing too much current in the first place! I looked inside the motor, it's got junk all over the commutator. Maybe a mixture of gear box grease, smoke fluid, and dust from the bearings and brushes. Too bad I can't just clean it.




You could try spraying it with contact cleaner (1st choice) or brake cleaner (2nd choice) and flushing it out. (Carb cleaner would probably be too strong and could eat the varnish insulation from the wires.) At this point, if you are going to replace it anyway, what have you got to loose?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

you can also rinse out the brushes of gunk, and check between the commutator segments for gunk (remove carefully with sharp x-acto or toothpick) 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The LGB motor is carried by most shops, and I know that Train-Li does have them in stock.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Contact Jeff Schulze at BridgeMasters in CA. They bought up the remaining LGB stock from San Diego and will probably give you the best price.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

BridgeMasters needs an online catalog! How am I supposed to browse the guy's warehouse isles from Colorado?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Uhh... there is this new invention called google...

you type bridgemasters into it, and you get this web site: *[url]http://www.bridge-masters.com/*[/url]

Technology is scary huh?









Greg


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

I've seen it... it's just pretty weak. Doesn't have any of the LGB parts everyone is talking about. Trail Li and OnlyTrains carts are much better, much bigger selection of things with pictures.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

BridgeMasters is run by people for people, not for computers.

They have two warehouses of new and used stuff that is unlisted on their web site. Sure you can go to TrainLi or such, but if BridgeMasters has it, it will probably be far cheaper. I know that they just bought out the San Diego LGB facility and I've seen the LGB parts on their shelves. Do yourself a favor and give Jeff a call..., or not.


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 31 Dec 2010 11:11 AM 
Contact Jeff Schulze at BridgeMasters in CA. They bought up the remaining LGB stock from San Diego and will probably give you the best price.


They only bought a small portion of the LGB parts. Most of them went back to Germany to be sold by two online companies Warenreich and Warenburg on Ebay. 

On the other hand regarding prices we need to differentiate between Modell-Land parts (*more than 4500*) who's representative Train-Li-USA is and regular LGB parts (such as LGB motors, regular gears, either as a ProLine product or as an LGB packaged product). We pass price advantages directly through to our customers e.g. Short Shaft motor $52.95







(They sell for over $70 on Ebay).


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

While packing up all the trains post Christmas, I managed to find the instruction manual. Mystery solved! The manual is different from the one typically posted online. Specifically regarding the weird "resistor" on the train...

"Starting is deliberately retarded, so that at a predetermined position of the piston one hears the sound escaping steam before the locomotive starts to move... Behind the first driving wheel, on the outer right hand side we find the interchangeable NTC resistance. Should this become defective, then the motor current is interrupted and the locomotive does not move. One should not immediately think that the motor is faulty, but should fit the replacement NTC which is included, into the sockets provided, the locomotive is once again ready for use." 


Here is a 300 dpi scan of the interesting bits of my manual regarding this: 

http://fifengr.com/temp/LGB-2080S-1980s.pdf

As far as the status of my particular train goes. I ended up gutting the old analog electronics. Replacing the NTC/resistor with a short (as pictured previously). And cleaning the heck out of the motor with contact cleaner. It's mostly working now, although not wonderful. I think what happens is the carbon brushes leave a lot of dust and it's conductive and it shorts out the commutator plates. So just blast it out of there with some contact cleaner. Since this train is no longer collector condition... I'm looking at doing motor replacement, a DCC, sound, and pulse smoke conversion in the near future.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Not only is the BridgeMasters online catalog incomplete, but the have no shopping cart. That's just silly nowadays. ZenCart is free, I've set them up myself. So I was left with ordering by fax (that took a while to figure out - who has a fax machine?) AND they don't answer the phone.... Or return calls?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They are not a big operation, but I have met most of them personally at shows, nice guys. In this economy, not everyone is flush with staff. 

Of course, it's hard to compare with Joanne answering the phone at Train-Li! 

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have always received timely responses from Dave at Bridgewerks, either by phone or email. If he is not responding, I'm sure that there is a very good reason.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, they were looking at BRIDGEMASTERS, not BRIDGEWERKS. 

Alas, I have done much the same as you at times.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Bridgemasters: Placentia, California - bridges, etc. http://www.bridge-masters.com/ 
Bridgewerks: Duram, North Carolina - high power and quality power supplies - http://www.bridgewerks.com/ 

Regards, Greg


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Got my stuff my BridgeMasters. Fantastic stuff. Worth the wait and complex ordering


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 04 Feb 2011 02:50 PM 
Got my stuff my BridgeMasters. Fantastic stuff. Worth the wait and complex ordering  

So glad it worked out for you.

Jeff usually has the best prices, especially on used stuff. The other day I bought a used trackside 10 amp AristoCraft Train Engineer with two transmitters and original wires all for $50 from them. I hooked it all up yesterday and it worked fine. This has replaced my trackside 10-amp RCS system.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Chata86 on 31 Dec 2010 11:31 AM 
BridgeMasters needs an online catalog! How am I supposed to browse the guy's warehouse isles from Colorado? 




They need to learn to return phone calls also. Gave up and have stuck it out with Train Li, tops in service!


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## mvps9 (May 5, 2013)

Hi, I just purchased on Ebay a 2080S. I am very happy thus far with this engine. I grew up in the TV repair business.The part is indeed a thermistor. It is designed to get warm during use and was originally used in TV's to give the Tube TV's a slow warm up, as not to shock the tubes and prevent a high in-rush of current. I would believe this to be used to do the same with this engine. However, mine has the holes but there is no socket for this device. Your's must be a earlyer design. To replace you would need to know the cold resistance of this device. Hope this helps. Interesting reading.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you go through the entire thread you will see that he revised all the electronics and eliminated the need for this thermistor. The need stated by LGB was to delay the starting of the motor to synchronize with the sound unit. (post from 08 Jan 2011 02:24 PM). 

Modern systems don't need any such analog "tweaking". 

I would guess the socket is there because not all locos in the series had sound systems in them. I would also guess that yours that does not have the sockets has no sound system also, or a much newer sound system. 

By the way, welcome to MLS! You might want to tell us a bit about yourself in a new thread. You might find others near by. 

Regards, Greg


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