# Cutting Track - Air Cut Off Saw ?



## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Tired of Xacto saw, hack saw and BIG cutter. Happened into the air tool isle in Home Depot and wondered why not? A search here yielded nothing. Obviously 20-22,000 rpm might be a problem, but speed is variable by the trigger, and couldn't speed be limited by reducing the air compressor pressure? And the price is right, below type (3") sold for $15-25. It's small, looks pretty easy to handle.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

That is a plausible tool and it should work I don't see why not. I cut all mine right at the spot of the joint. 
I use Dremel EZ Lock, I some times do not cut straight as I would like but you can use the EZ lock as a grinder and square up the rail. Some times I leave the cut so that I get the Noise of the wheels going over the the joint. I have 5 or 6 Dremeles all over the place. They are the only tool of it's kind I buy. I have all kinds of others but they do not stand up tot he abuse Dremel does. 

John


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

The little bit of track that i've cut i've used air tool. Cut it a little long, then can square it up by gently pressing against surface of wheel. Deburr w/ small file.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris,

During my years as a die sinker, we used air grinders with cut-off wheels like this. BUT.......be very careful to use quality, reinforced cut-off wheels. The regular wheels (read "cheaper") are NOT reinforced and can shatter easily, especially in the hands of a novice OR one not used to using these tools.


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

I have been using one of the mini cutoff saws for years works well on rail and also to cut steel for bridges.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I also use the Dremel EZ wheels, they're great. The power tool I've used for a few years is a fairly cheap Dremel knock-off with a flex shaft. Got it from Train Li.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Wear eye protection ... I've got optivisors with nicks in the lenses, far cheaper than in me.
John


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Air powered rotary cutters can be great inexpensive tools. They are very useful yet inherently dangerous, BE careful... Never allow anyone to be in the path of the cutting wheel. There are plenty of stories of inexperienced users with pieces of the abrasive blade stuck in their body somewhere on the net.

As suggested previously quality abrasive blades are desirable. This is not a grinder, soft downward pressure only and do NOT side load the blade, avoid using nicked, chipped or chunked blades for best results.

I use the Proxxon Mini Miter Saw depicted below. This saw is NOT a toy hobby saw. Cuts metals, wood, plastics and more. Costs about $210.00, money well spent, a craftsman will wonder how you did without it sooner than later.


http://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37160.php?list










Michael


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael Glavin said:


> Air powered rotary cutters can be great inexpensive tools. They are very useful yet inherently dangerous, BE careful... Never allow anyone to be in the path of the cutting wheel. There are plenty of stories of inexperienced users with pieces of the abrasive blade stuck in their body somewhere on the net.
> 
> As suggested previously quality abrasive blades are desirable. This is not a grinder, soft downward pressure only and do NOT side load the blade, avoid using nicked, chipped or chunked blades for best results.
> 
> ...


Cutting individual rails a mini/micro chop saw is good. Cutting assembled track it doesn't have the capacity. I have the Proxxon.

Yeah, I've been reconsidering the air cut off tool, you're right - and I'm dangerous too so getting together with it - not as good an idea as it seemed. Saner minds have prevailed, I think I'll go back to the Dremel. 

Thanks all.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I notice that no one's mentioned what kind of rail they're cutting: aluminum, brass, etc. I'm pretty sure there will be a big difference.

And are you cutting rail on on the convenience of your workbench or _in situ_?

I did my entire layout (about 550 feet of Stainless Steel code 250) on the ground with a tool similar to the illustration in the original posting. Each cut took what seemed like an hour kneeling on the ground but was probably about 3 or 4 minutes with a cutting wheel. About 75 feet of hose was all I needed to be hooked up to the compressor in the garage. Somehow, using a Dremel sounds like it'd take even longer, being such a small disc.

So I thought the question would be what rail you're cutting, where you're doing it and how long it takes.

JackM

If ever there was a use for eye protection, this is it.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I cut SS track with a diamond blade in a roto-zip... Wasn't fast and wasn't real clean.
I'm looking for a bimetal bade for my bandsaw....
John


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

JackM said:


> So I thought the question would be what rail you're cutting, where you're doing it and how long it takes.
> 
> JackM
> 
> If ever there was a use for eye protection, this is it.


Code 250, Nickel-Silver, on site.

Air cut off 3" dia disk, ~20-22,000 rpm max
Dremel 1 1/2" dia disk, 5,000 - 30,000 rpm max

This whole thing is about the trouble of cutting curved flextrack. Straight cuts can go to the miter saw. I've not tried it but I think you can put a 7 1/4 or 10" on a 12" miter saw - at least that's what I was planning.

I just happened to think, I maybe just have to have a new 6 1/2" battery circular saw. 

Or maybe this baby;
Ryobi, 18V L ion, 7 1/4", $125 Tool Only (no battery), ~$225, w/ Bat/Chrg


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, I use a cordless Dremel, carbide cutoff wheel, and cutting through SS code 332 is just a few seconds.

After SS, brass is like cutting butter.










Greg


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

I have all Code 250 nickel silver rail and have used a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel on a cordless Dremel. All of the cuts were done on the ground in place. Cut the rail a small amount long and square off cut to fit. Deburr as required. Remember - the rail is going to get HOT no matter what cutting process you use.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

One can put wet paper towels over the rail, to either side of the cut, say 1/2 inch away and they will be heat sinks. May save a tie spike.
John


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Okay - I didn't know such a thing existed. I will invest in this thing and run the extension cord out to the track work I happen to be doing this week. I've got 250 SS. This'll be a big improvement over the screeeeming air tool.

JackM


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Chris Scott said:


> Code 250, Nickel-Silver, on site.
> 
> This whole thing is about the trouble of cutting curved flextrack. Straight cuts can go to the miter saw. I've not tried it but I think you can put a 7 1/4 or 10" on a 12" miter saw - at least that's what I was planning.


Chris

Are you cutting track in place and or is the track loose?

Michael


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael Glavin said:


> Chris
> 
> Are you cutting track in place and or is the track loose?
> 
> Michael



Loose track, cut on deck of elevated layout. Once fitted, held in place with butterfly strips. I made a jig to hold the track/rails immobile during cutting. ~75% of track on curves.


*Make sure you get one of these for your Dremel to shield the blade/cut.*


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Chris, 

Are you using the Proxxon mini to cut straight track? I flip the track over clamp the rail and then turn track end to end and clamp the second rail down. Or in some cases the obvious, I cut the rails individually san ties.

I suspect you could clamp curved track well enough to cut it as well.

All that said I have never cut stainless track, either.

Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wuss! hahahahaha (I always wear safety glasses!)


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Code 250 Brass, 4" grinder with 1 mm (thick) cutoff wheel. 11,000 rpm from memory.

'bout 2 seconds per rail on site followed by a quick deburr with a hand file. Quick & easy..

Cheers
Neil


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Tried; Dremel E-Z. Xacto saw, hack saw,... had not gotten to the $46.95 Harbor-Freight cut off saw.

After each being a PITA, I've found my perfect rail cutter. 

24" Bolt Cutter. Very sharp too so the cutting is easy. 
snip snip, little filing to square the end. 










It's not right for everyone but it works for me.  The real problem is I lack both experience with all the other methods (Dremel, etc.), and I have no patience  for hand sawing or grinding through anything. I've done my share and paid my dues. Like Tim Allen says,* MORE POWER, argh, argh, argh...* 

Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Chris, I'm not trying to change your mind, so please take these comments literally.

I've had issues ripping track out of the ties, and any kind of large saw has been a problem for me.

The dremel is battery operated, light, portable, and cuts through in a few seconds, and can make a perfect cut the first time. 

I have a hard time understanding how your bolt cutters can make anything but a big pointed cut that takes significant material to remove.

Perhaps you don't butt the rails together closely?

Anyway, I'm glad you have a good solution, but I'm skeptical of the extra time to finish the cut with the bolt cutters, and while I have air power and hoses that will reach to the layout, the air powered cutoff tool is like using a pile driver to push in a thumbtack.

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Chris,

I don't disagree with anything others have posted. In my case I have tried a lot of ways with varying results.

For me there is a lot of difference between cutting stainless steel and brass track. There is even a noticeable difference between cutting LGB and Aristo-Craft brass track (LGB brass track is softer to cut, drill and tap) Drilling stainless steel track proved impossible for me.

My usual preference is for a Chop Saw (I bought a couple at Sears Surplus stores years ago). They cut stainless or brass equally well and have the advantage of cutting the ends of both tracks parallel (assuming the tracks are not moving within their ties). Curved track is a bit more challenging.

Hand held circular tools like the air and Dremel can be hard to get a clean (not angled) cutoff other than at or near the end of the track. If the disk is too small and you are close to the end of the track the tool may have to cut at an angle to cut the track.

I found Dremel thin cutting disks can be fragile - especially with stainless track. I think I found some thicker Dremel disks that were less fragile.

With brass track I use a Chop Saw for parallel cuts but with brass single track I favor a plain hand electric jig (saber?) saw.

I don't think there are particularly right or wrong answers. Part of the question is how soon and how often you need to cut the track(s). 

Part of the problems can be where the cut needs to be precise such as in a crossing or crossover or passing sidings where even a fraction of an inch may result in a track that is slightly too long or too short.

Most times when I need to cut track I simply ask myself what is the handiest tool that will get the job done. In most cases just about anything will do the job.

In the end you will probably have a lot of grit from the rails and cut-off wheels. 

One problem can be that if you use the same tool (cut-off wheel, grinding wheels, wire brush etc.) on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals you can transfer iron/steel particles to stainless steel track ends that end up with the stainless track "rusting." it is the iron particles transferred to the stainless track that are actually rusting.

In the end It probably does not matter that much which method you choose as long as it appeals to you and the particular cut is not especially important. Eventually you will probably have a gap here and there that does not actually cause any problems that are not easily fixed.

Most likely others have had more experience with particular tools than I have. 

Good luck,

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

These are the new, larger in diameter cutoff wheels that are not fragile Jerry.

Have been out for several years now.

The old ones you describe are fragile and smaller in diameter.

HUGE difference, the extra diameter allows nice 90 degree cuts on track in place.

Greg




Greg Elmassian said:


> Wow, I use a cordless Dremel, carbide cutoff wheel, and cutting through SS code 332 is just a few seconds.
> 
> After SS, brass is like cutting butter.
> 
> ...


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Right now I'm wondering "how come nobody ever told me about this before?????"

This, being the 1-1/2 inch Dremel discs. Jeez, Greg wasn't kiddin'! And these aren't even the actual Dremel discs - I stopped at Harb.Frt. on the way to work yesterday. Their own offbrand discs, three for five or six bucks. Figured I'd give 'em a shot. Made a couple cuts today into my trusty Sunset Valley SS 250. Didn't take more than a minute each. And quiet, too.

I never thought of Dremel because I've used their one inch discs for decades - the ones that like to send shrapnel flying across the room. They're good, but so fragile! I didn't know there was such a thing as inch'nahalf discs. I owe ya another brew, Greg.

And so do my neighbors. They really hate the sound of my air disc whining away and getting nowhere. So...why doesn't the big air disc cut faster than the little one a' half critter? Shouldn't the big honkin' air tool beat the little Dremel?

JackM



> Hand held circular tools like the air and Dremel can be hard to get a clean (not angled) cutoff


I think someone, if not Dremel, makes a right angle attachment that would make track cutting easier. I have a right angle air cutter that's easier to use, but still takes ages to make each cut.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Well... Jack... glad ya found a tool that cuts faster. .

In the cutting n grinder.. even sanding families tho... think about coarse to fine for getting a job done... even hand files and emory boards fit this group..

You now have a stronger.. harder.. coarser cutter... one that cuts faster!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

To make it even sweeter, that mandrel shown is a quick release, really beats using that tiny screw.

And they have a ton of attachments for it, 2 different grades of scotchbrite type stuff, rubber flexible sanders, 3 types of the flat cutoff blades, now one specifically for plastic that does not load up as bad, etc.

Yep, I'm like a kid in the candy store when I go to the Dremel "wall" at HD or Lowes.

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used Dumore die grinders for over fifty plus years to cut everything from die steel to hardened bolts to brass and stainless steel. A Dumore die grinder with a reinforced fiber wheel is what pros in the trade use. I happen to use a Dumore because I have a few of them from my working days. And the fiber reinforced wheels are much larger than what you guys use as hobbyists. A small Dremel will definitely do the job, just a little slower. Don't make a big deal out of this cutting of rail! Invest in a nice quick release mandrel and some fiber wheels. AND definitely safety glasses! Come on, just get the job done. As we used to say in the trade, "Quit aiming and start shootin'. Pull the **** trigger! ALL in fun of course 

The large bolt cutter, in my humble opinion, is way too much overkill and you STILL have to dress up the cut when done cutting.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a note....

I use this type of 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a cutoff disk for cutting track.. Works extremely well and is only $14.99 at Harbor Freight..


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the 90 degree adapter for my dremel and find I can make even better cuts.
After 10 years it wore out so I purchased another one. (weak point is the flex shaft in the adapter).


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