# Unbending r1s



## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

To complete the inner loop on my layout, I need about another 100 feet of track. Preferably most of this will be R5 curves. I hate to buy new track unless I have to... The cheapest track out there seems to be used LGB R1 curves. 

Has anyone had success cutting the web and "unbending" these with a rail bender to make larger radius curves? Any advice on getting them all the same radius?


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

It has been years since I did it.

I had limited success by using a Train-Li Dual Track Bender. First I drilled out the indentation holding the joiners in place, removed the joiners and used strong clamps (Hillman or Split Jaw - not the type that simply have screws to grab the track) that cleared the bender to try to get the ends of the tracks from springing back too much. 

I cut the inside plastic tab that held the ties together to allow them to spread out.

Once through the bender (multiple pass throughs) I reversed the inside and outside rails to equalize the length.

I was mostly trying to make straight sections out of the curves. It would have been easier to widen the curves.

I think the main problem you will have will be the last couple of inches where the track is out of the bender.

While I have not done it I have seen where others have soldered/welded the ends of rails together for electrical continuity. If that works I would think that recurving welded track should be very practical.

In my case I cannot say that it was totally satisfactory. I ended up using a lot of the track for things like safety rails or sidings. There is a lot of crooked track in the real world.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I re-curved some track, and it was Aristo stainless, very tough.

As Jerry did, I clamped the ends together with strong joiners (Split Jaw clamps) and then the bender (I used a Train-Li, one of the best) could recurve the ends also.

I think if you do it with a good bender and clamp the ends you can do it without too much difficulty. You are not trying to make it straight like Jerry did.

Go for it, but use good stuff.

Greg


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i do it all the time.
with a little practice, it is easy and quick.
normally i put the inner rails beside, to make straights (they got just the same length, as the original straights)

for dismantling the curves, you can either wriggle off the connectors with pliers, or carefully hammer the rail out of the connector and the webbing.
with the second method, you might damage the webbing, but you got less work to put the connectors back in their original form.

depends on your taste, if you cut all the outer web, or all the inner web. (for different spacing of ties) don't cut by two and two, like the flex track webbing. that makes for not uniform spacing.

bending to another curve radius is "belly-bending" work for me.
for making straights, i hold the rail sideways upon an anvil, and tapper them toform with a small hammer. (after some manual pre-unbending)
don't hammer on the railheads! just on the railfoot.


i normally first bend the outer rails for the complete curve, then bend the inner rails, to fit on the inner line of the webbing.
if you cut the new inner rails to measure, or like me, stagger the joints, depends, if you are frugal, or not.


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## reeveha (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan,

There are quite a few WAGRS members that have dual track benders that might loan it to you.

pm me at [email protected] and I can get you intouch with one of them.

Regards,


Herb Reeves


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