# Eaglewings Ironcraft girder bridge #113 question



## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

All-

http://www.eaglewingsironcraft.com/...esc=Number 113

Does anyone here own one?

What I would like to know is if you have any comments about it (detail, durability), and is the bottom open (like the smaller 112).

Thanks!


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes. Built like a Tank. Paint is e-coated, very durable. The bottom is open and the bridge can be reversed if desired.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Everything Dan does is fantastic.

JJ


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

What is the spacing of the longitudinal supports, are they directly undrer the rails? 

Anyone have any pix or know of any on the web? 

Thanks!


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Garrett, the supports are approximately 2 3/16" apart. Did you see this: http://www.eaglewingsironcraft.com/bridge_gallery.php


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, thank you John, saw that, but the page lacks detailed photos unfortunately. 

I am going to send Eaglewings Iron an e-mail and see if they can supply photos. 

Thanks again for the responses.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

PS Jim- 

Like your Avatar and LGB truck. We here at the NMD have a nicely re-painted "Christmas" version bought off of eBay, great truck with a snowplough! Just not sure about the bearded mtorbiker behind the wheel tho!


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## bob7094 (Jan 3, 2008)

Here's two pictures of my bridge. It's 30 inches (76 cm) long.


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## bob7094 (Jan 3, 2008)




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## Fred Mills (Nov 24, 2008)

To make that bridge look better, and more prototypical, you should use bridge ties, which are longer. There should also be guard rails. Some, but few pikes, did not use guard rails, but especially on open based through trus bridges of this type, most did. 
Too many people put so much effort into building great bridges and trestles, then fail to add the proper bridge ties, guard rails, and thus giving a poor finished appearance. Go that one step further, and add them....you will be glad you did, if only for the better appearance. If you try using code 250, or better still, code 215 aluminium rail, for the guard rails, they will look great. You can paint them a rust colour, to add that ral looking appearance. Spikes are available from Railcraft/Micro Engineering. 
To see how guard rails, and bridge ties improve the appearance; purchase Klambake's soft cover publication, on Bridges and Trestles. You will learn a lot from it, and see what bridges really look like, and are built. The book will also show you how the guard rails are bent at the approaches. 

Another neat observation on guard rails, was the RGS NG, practise, of applying their guard rails on the outside of the running rails....you might care to use this standard on your pike, just to be different.... 

Have fun... 
Fr.Fred


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob and Fred- 

Yes, thanks for the comments and the photos, this makes everything much more clear. 

Fred, one idea I did have regarding the ties and insides was using the Garden Metal Models tie strips: 

http://www.gardenmetalmodels.com/pr...ridge_Ties_ 

Any cutting/fitting should be easy. I have one of their deck girder bridges, and recommend it highly.

Good thoughts on the guardrails too.


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## bob7094 (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi Fred,

Ever since I got this bridge I wanted to add a deck like this, from the Kalmbach book, although I'm not sure it's totally appropriate since one end is supported by the trestle. Now that I've been retired for nearly a week, I may get to this, after I do project n...









'


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

THere are some ballast deck bridges, some prefered by some roads. For example, the NC&StL and L&N used them regularly around these parts "back in the day".


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Back when I worked in a sheet metal shop I drew up and had made a few of these bridges. They were a ballasted deck type. These shots are from one of the two that were finished and traded away to a friend that got out of the hobby. He ahd it installed for a few years. This had been powder coated but with an interior grade of coating. I had asked him for some photos years later of the bridge and these are what I got. The body channel was 16 gauge CRS with side plates of 16 Gauge (overkill) and detail angles of 20 gauge with Top and bottom plates of 20 gauge as well.


















You can just make out that I put drain holes in the bottom spaced out at intervals. There are also braces underneath at prototypical sapcing. From the Kalmbach book and I think the carstens book too this thru plate girder was on the longest side of the believeable design length. The only concession was there was no knee bracing on the inside and of course no rivets as it was TIG welded together.

Chas


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

While true to scale, I omitted the bridge ties and just lay track over my structures because I experience wide temperature swings and tightly spiked rails lead to kinks. On one bridge the rail stringers are attached to the ties and move with track as it expands and contracts, it's connected to a curved trestle and the expansion is lateral instead of linear. 

Just another 10' rule concession. 

John


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## tmmhead (Feb 22, 2008)

Garrett,

I installed one of these bridges in my layout here in North Florida in June of 2008 and I can concur that it is built very solid from a structural standpoint, no complaints there. However, the paint on the bridge has badly deteriorated and rust has set in sooner then expected. I will spare you the pictures of what it looks like right now since I am still removing the rust and preparing for repainting. I am not sure what type of life one would expect to get out of a powder coat finish but I thought it would be more then 2 years and would not put another metal painted structure in the railway.


My recommendation would be to look for a bridge constructed of other materials that over the long run will hold up better outdoors. I know that any future structures will need to be made of low maintenance materials as I want to spend my few hours running trains not sanding and repainting metal structures.


Tim


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks again. 

Tim, are you close to the coast perhaps? My Garden Metal Models bridge is metal and powdercoated, and is holding up well. But, much of an paint/coating job is the prepwork.... 

While I really like the Eagle bridges, the other and more important issue, Eagle did not return my e-mail unlike another maker. 

So sometime in 2011 the other fabricator will be contracted. Afterall, as Woody Allen said, "80% of sucess is showing up".


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## tmmhead (Feb 22, 2008)

Garrett, 

About 15 miles as the crow fly's from the beach. Would not have thought that a big problem and don't really have other corrosion/rust issues with other metal objects outside that are painted. Perhaps you should stay with the proven record of Garden Metal Bridges since they are holding up. 

Tim


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

....I am leaning that way, but wanted some variation in bridges. But one cannot beat the product!


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## irondan (Jan 7, 2008)

We are sorry we missed, lost or just plain messed up getting back to you. Since 2008 we started using rust resistant gray powder coated primer on our biuldings which really makes a big difference. Thanks for the feed back on this subject. It looks like in your area that you live in Eaglewings needs to offer the option to coat with the rust resistant gray primer and powder coat with the black for a final coat for added protection and to improve longevity. Because of the inconvenience we would like to offer you a discount on yor next purchase.


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