# Indoor Construction planning/track choices



## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

I'm in the planning stages for an *indoor* G scale ceiling layout of about 100'. Can I get away with using the standard Bachmann Steel track and soldering the joints or would brass be a better choice? ( I know I would need about 100 watt iron & flux)

Also,
Im trying to choose a power supply. I would think I would need several amps. I plan on running a Accucraft "Fort Wilderness" locomotive pulling 4 cars at the most.

Any advise would be appreciated.

-don


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Don, 

The BM steel track is so flimsy, and its joints so electrically flaky, I'd stay away from it... and unless I'm unaware of some special process, I don't think you can solder to it. I'd recommend the brass, if you can swing it. I'd hate to see you buying toy train track for an Accucraft!

If you want to get out of rail cleaning, you might consider the Train Li nickle-plated (brass) track. Cheaper than SS. But there's also aluminum, that might be cheapest, not sure. But any of those should reduce your "ladder time," ha ha!

Keep us posted (with pics!) on your progress,
Cliff


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## Harold Wilson (Oct 28, 2010)

I used AML aluminum flex track in 6 ft sections. To get good electrical connectivity I drilled a hole in the rail web and tapped it for an allen head machine screw. I coated the joint with one of the aluminum wire oxidation pastes and secured the rail joiner to the rail with the screw. It's only been up about 2 years in a basement room but so far has worked fine.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I would imagine indoors aluminum track should be fine but I would think buying used brass track would be the most economical option.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

Thanks fellas, I have some curved Aluminum track on order for testing. 
Still need to choose a power supply.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

I seen a layout with BM track, first humid day it turn to rust. I would go with brass or aluminum.

Don


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

Test


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I see Bachmann hollow track selling at pretty much the price of used LGB track.
I place used LGB track in the dishwasher with my dishes and the plastic cleans up nicely.
Hollow track is to easy to damage and the ties do not have UV protection.
And the Bachmann will rust even indoors in time.


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

I have read that someone could use the Crest Revolution receiver board and a generic PS connected to the track to run trains. That way you have wireless control and plenty of power. On the other hand a 1 amp LGB starter set PS might do the job also, not sure how much power the Fort Wilderness needs or if you are pulling cars with lights.
Steve


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor, the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. The seller claimed the car worked but...

Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey? or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??

Now I gotta find a replacement motor or something else to test with. I'm keeping the Accucraft in the closet for the big reveal once everything is done.

Any advise welcome.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

What diameter of curve are you looking for. Another reason not use Bachmann is that the steel track is 4' diameter only.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

dbailey421 said:


> I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor,* the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. *The seller claimed the car worked but...
> 
> *Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey?* or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??
> 
> ...


Welcome to the wonderful world of large scale 

Re track, yes, it is, its almost as expensive as brass, has worse conductivity issues due to the crappy joiners, rusts in even slight moisture and if stepped on... instant crush. I would whole-heartedtly recommend any track, even solid plastic New Bright track, over Bmann's junk tin track. 

RE Trolley, sigh... you're not the first to suffer 'Bachmanitis" The trolley is notorious for failing motors, NWSL sold a decent replacement motor, they still should. 

NWSL = North West Short Lines http://www.nwsl.com/

Near the bottom of the page
http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/chap2_web_02-15.pdf


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

*Track*



Treeman said:


> What diameter of curve are you looking for. Another reason not use Bachmann is that the steel track is 4' diameter only.



I;'ve already invested in AML aluminum track with 4' diameter. 

Thanks!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

dbailey421 said:


> I bought some AML aluminum track and a used Bachmann street car to test/play with. I also bought a bench power supply from MPJA variable 18vdc @3 amps. I tried this rig out on the kitchen floor, the streetcar moved about 1/4 inch and stopped, then we smelled the electrical smell. The seller claimed the car worked but...
> 
> Is the Bachmann stuff that flakey? or could there be a issue with the power supply. All I need is good clean DC power right??
> 
> ...


You haven't said which Bachmann trolley you have.......I assume it's not the new Peter Witt streetcars that cost around $200. But it is probably the open trolley called "United Traction Co." OR could be the "closed" trolley. I bought the open trolley about 30 years ago. Paid about $90 new at that time. It ran for about five minutes (new out of the box) and then crapped out. The gear noise was very loud, even outdoors. That thing was junk! Still is. It LOOKS nice as a model, but terrible as a runner. I gave mine away. I wasn't going to put ANY more money into that thing. Good luck with yours if we are talking about the same piece.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

vsmith said:


> Welcome to the wonderful world of large scale
> 
> Re track, yes, it is, its almost as expensive as brass, has worse conductivity issues due to the crappy joiners, rusts in even slight moisture and if stepped on... instant crush. I would whole-heartedtly recommend any track, even solid plastic New Bright track, over Bmann's junk tin track.
> 
> ...


Awesome, they even have instructions for replacement on that exact model Trolley. That's what I was looking for. Will probably order soon.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

Gary Armitstead said:


> You haven't said which Bachmann trolley you have.......I assume it's not the new Peter Witt streetcars that cost around $200. But it is probably the open trolley called "United Traction Co." OR could be the "closed" trolley. I bought the open trolley about 30 years ago. Paid about $90 new at that time. It ran for about five minutes (new out of the box) and then crapped out. The gear noise was very loud, even outdoors. That thing was junk! Still is. It LOOKS nice as a model, but terrible as a runner. I gave mine away. I wasn't going to put ANY more money into that thing. Good luck with yours if we are talking about the same piece.


Its the "Season's greetings" street car. 93941

Again, just something for testing whilst the track is under construction.

Thanks!


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

dbailey421 said:


> I;'ve already invested in AML aluminum track with 4' diameter.
> 
> Thanks!


Nothing wrong with 4' dia, especially if you are planning a trolley layout. But the Bachmann trolleys do have a reputation, if you are planning a large traction layout then its worth investing in the better NWSL motor blocks, its just that the NWSLs are pretty pricey but they are very reliable.

Curious, will this be a round the room ceiling layout or a more detailed traditional type layout? helps determine how to answer questions.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

vsmith said:


> Nothing wrong with 4' dia, especially if you are planning a trolley layout. But the Bachmann trolleys do have a reputation, if you are planning a large traction layout then its worth investing in the better NWSL motor blocks, its just that the NWSLs are pretty pricey but they are very reliable.
> 
> Curious, will this be a round the room ceiling layout or a more detailed traditional type layout? helps determine how to answer questions.


This will be a 'round the ceiling/dining room' layout with a switch to go into 5 other rooms and another switch to return to dining room. I want to be able to confine it to the dining room, but also activate the switches and have it run around the entire downstairs . Many penetrations into walls in between studs. (it's ok, I built my house 20 years ago, I think I can do this  ) I already have each stud marked and am beginning to decide what type of brackets (I will probably make them out of spruce and paint and/or use of large crown moulding) etc..

Thanks for everyone's help so far. This is going to take a while.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have installed USA Train motor blocks in Bachmann trolleys and they work great.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I would then DEFINITELY recommend anything other than Bmann's tin track.

Dan's recommendation for USA blocks instead of the NWSL blocks will save you a few bucks


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

All of my track, both indoors overhead and outdoors is 100% LGB, all purchased used. Outdoors I didnt care if it was heavily weathered(tarnished), but indoors I held out and only bought clean used track at around $4.50 a section. I used only sectional track, a couple of 24" sections but most are the 1000 and 1100 series track. Indoors I have had zero issues with the joints or voltage drop. Outdoors I used the LGB Graphite paste at each joint and a LGB cleaning block a couple times a year without any other issues. Mike


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

What is the preferred method for joining track. I have AML aluminum track with brass connectors. I was thinking of soldering all the joints with a small touch (there will be many). Is it possible to drill and tap through the connectors and joiners a fasten with screw?
I heard there is some kind a paste that should be used.

Is there a better way? Not looking to spend a fortune but want good connections. 

Any advise appreciated


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

You won't (as far as I know) be able to 'solder' brass and aluminum together.
I don't know what kind of temperature fluctuation you will see, but you should allow for some expansion and contraction of the rails. Joining everything too solid may cause problems.
All the best,
David leech, Delta, Canada


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I have AML aluminum track with brass connectors.


Dissimilar metals have problems when moisture is around. You may get corrosion where a steel screw goes through a brass connector to an alum rail. The paste you heard about is to prevent or slow such corrosion.

Yes, you can drill and tap the rail and screw them together. Perhaps safer would be to use clamps, like the Split-Jaw, which are brass and can be removed to clean the joints easily.

I used Llagas aluminum rail with stainless connectors and never had a problem. But I didn't have track power.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

*Joiners*

Thinking about using very short self tapping 440 screws. Gonna buy some and see how it works.



Found out that you can solder brass/aluminum but would take a specific type of solder and lots of heat. Probably enough to melt the ties so... scratch that one.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

First post states track power. If you want to save money, solder wire jumpers on brass track, but for indoors, some grease in clean joiners will probably work for years. I don't think I would go to the effort to drill and tap, the track won't be subject to much or any dissassembly after installation.

Greg


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

Well, It took awhile but here's the first video... Its still a work in progress. Thanks for everyone's input. I went with AML aluminum track, drilling/tapping (w/screws) to join curved assemblies/switch assemblies and using the brass clamp/screw type connectors to join large sections/assemblies. I started out using "used" Aristo track switches but was not happy with those so bought all new LGB track switches. 






Don


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great! that was fun, I lost count of the number of rooms you went through. You must have a very understanding wife, does she have a sister?

I see a couple of places for planned extensions?

Thanks for coming back and showing the result.

Greg


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Cool. I would make one suggestion. Add a small section of plexiglass about 1-1/2" tall above the rail next to each switch on the edge of the shelf. I have had locomotives derail on turnouts and that plexi may be the only thing keeping your loco from cratering on the floor.


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Great! that was fun, I lost count of the number of rooms you went through. You must have a very understanding wife, does she have a sister?
> 
> I see a couple of places for planned extensions?
> 
> ...


Yes, she has been very patient. I built the house for her back in 94, so I'm allowed to tear into it. Also, the grandbabies love the train so... she's all for it.

I have a couple places planned for train storage. 

Thanks for watching. It'l take another year or so to finish the basic layout and finish trim. Then, its on to decoration in the corners.. I have alot planned. 

I have a Accucraft Fort wilderness locomotive and several coaches to run on it eventually.

Thanks for watching, more to come.

-Don


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## dbailey421 (Jan 22, 2013)

vsmith said:


> Cool. I would make one suggestion. Add a small section of plexiglass about 1-1/2" tall above the rail next to each switch on the edge of the shelf. I have had locomotives derail on turnouts and that plexi may be the only thing keeping your loco from cratering on the floor.



I have been concerned about that. Right now, my main work/test train has been a Bachmann Christmas trolley (had to replace the drive assembly with a better one as I fried the original one.

I plan to run more expensive trains eventually and would be catastrophic if anything fell off.

I'll definitely give that some thought!

-Don


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