# Double cross-over



## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Does anyone know how to build a double cross-over using aristocraft switches? I'm trying to use 10' switches. I'm having a problem keeping the tracks parallel.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

http://www.elmassian.com/trains/track-aamp-switches/aristo-track/aristo-crossover-configs 


Greg has the info on them to make it work.... take a look.


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

I made the same thing a few years ago. I know what you mean by tracks not parallel. I was able to "tweak/straigten" the curve in the Aristo turnout between the Frog and the 30 degree crossover connection to get them parrallel. I used Train-Li's dual rail bender, but any dual rail bender should work using it in place. 
Wesley


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The angle of the "diamond" will control your track to track spacing, per the diagram. 

I'd try mightily to do it with #6 switches, or at least the Train-Li R7's... 

Greg


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Thank you for the info. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to go to #6's.They are quite pricey. And where do you get them. I've gone to quite a few on-line sites and their all sold out. Has anyone ever deal with Sunset Valley? Their #6's are $111.50


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iowafarmboy1960 on 17 May 2013 12:15 PM 
Thank you for the info. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to go to #6's.They are quite pricey. And where do you get them. I've gone to quite a few on-line sites and their all sold out. Has anyone ever deal with Sunset Valley? Their #6's are $111.50 I have a dozen or more of SV #6's. I love 'em! Remember, you get what your pay for.









BTW, SV turnouts are CODE 250, NOT 332. Also the geometry of a SV turnout is different from Aristo. SV uses the same geometry as a prototype 1:1 turnout, not the "toylike" curve through the frog.

What you're seeing for yourself now is what new folks to the LS hobby always see. The cost of track and turnouts is usually very expensive. BUT, track is the foundation of your hobby AND your layout. It's usually a one time only expense, but it can be intimidating.


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Gary, their web site states that the switches will work with all other factory made track.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iowafarmboy1960 on 17 May 2013 02:09 PM 
Gary, their web site states that the switches will work with all other factory made track. Of course they will. That's a given. I just mentioned the code in case you were using code 332. Also cross-sectional profile will be different with different "factory-made" brands. Just a heads-up, that's all.








I believe there are "transition" joiners available for different codes.

EDIT: I just looked at SV's website again and I think you might be confusing the fact that SV track is compatible with other factory made track. I couldn't find that statement. I believe what their statement pertained to was that rolling stock and locos from manufacturers will work with SV track and turnouts. I may be wrong, but that's what I think they are saying.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I did it years back with Aristo XW switches , I think by altering the curve and cutting the rail loose from the ties.

no photos, that's how long ago it was.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The Aristo 10' diameter curve is 30 degrees. Measure the length of the inside rail on the curve on the switch. Now measure the inside rail length on a standard piece of 10' diameter curve. There are 3 per 90 degrees. For the sake of discussion say the length of the inside curve on the switch is 20" and the inside length of the standard curve is 30". That means the switch is 20 degrees of curvature. If your crossing is 22.5 degrees, you need to to cut a length of curved track equal to 2.5 degrees. Since in this example one inch equals one degree, you would need a 2.5 inch section of curved track to make the crossing work. If you have a 30 degree crossing, you would need a 10 inch section of curve. Make the measurements and the math isn't that complicated.

I just measured the length of the inside rail on a piece of Aristo wide radius curve (10' d). It is 30.5 inches. I am not going to measure my Aristo 10' diameter switches because I might have cut some material off at one time. Ratios should get you close to the curvature you will need.


Chuck

I just measured the length of the rail on the curve part of an Aristo WR switch. It is about 15". That is about a 15 degree curve. Subtract 15 from the angle of your crossing. That is the amount of curve you will need at each end of the crossing to keep the main line parallel. You will need four curved track sections of that angle, length, to complete the project.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Correction on the #6 (mostly for Gary) ... the Aristo 4' diameter and the Aristo "Wide Radius" switches are indeed "curved" through the diverging route, like other "toy" turnouts.... this practice was started in LS by LGB so that a switch could be substituted in a curve and match perfectly. 

Easier to design track plans and allows more compact layouts. 

But the Aristo #6 is an accurate reproduction of the prototype, with a diverging route, and the rails "straight" after the frog. It is a reasonably good turnout and is a true #6 frog. 

Picture below is Aristo diamond with WR switches, there is about 1.5" to cut off where you see the overlap, you can pick the switch or the diamond.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 17 May 2013 09:57 PM 
Correction on the #6 (mostly for Gary) ... the Aristo 4' diameter and the Aristo "Wide Radius" switches are indeed "curved" through the diverging route, like other "toy" turnouts.... this practice was started in LS by LGB so that a switch could be substituted in a curve and match perfectly. 

Easier to design track plans and allows more compact layouts. 

But the Aristo #6 is an accurate reproduction of the prototype, with a diverging route, and the rails "straight" after the frog. It is a reasonably good turnout and is a true #6 frog. 

Picture below is Aristo diamond with WR switches, there is about 1.5" to cut off where you see the overlap, you can pick the switch or the diamond.









Greg,

I stand corrected on the Aristo #6. BUT the OP DID ask about SV turnouts AND that is the answer I gave. I'm NOT a devotee of Aristocraft. Sorry for my ignorance as to the many turnouts that Aristo has.


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Gary, I did go back to the SV web site and saw where they offer connectors that will match their code 250 rails to aristo track. Their price is better than I can find of any web site that sells the aristo #6. Besides, I would rather purchase switches and a cross-over that don't need to be modified.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iowafarmboy1960 on 18 May 2013 08:21 AM 
Gary, I did go back to the SV web site and saw where they offer connectors that will match their code 250 rails to aristo track. Their price is better than I can find of any web site that sells the aristo #6. Besides, I would rather purchase switches and a cross-over that don't need to be modified. There might be one thing you might want to consider about the SV turnouts. They are beautiful turnouts, BUT I use battery power ONLY. If you are using any other power system, it might be worth your while to contact Pete [email protected] by email or phone and discuss with him IF his turnouts need to be modified for power other than battery. Maybe someone on the forum would know.

EDIT: I went back to SV's site and noticed they have insulated frogs, so you are good to go. I just never paid any attention to the frogs because I use battery. Just forget any comment I made before. I haven't had my coffee this morning!!


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

My layout is in the planning stages and I haven't run any of my locos for a few years. Battery power is something I want to explore, but for right now I'm going to use track power. I'll give Pete a call before I order any switches. Thanks.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll toss in a couple photos of a crossover done with SVRR #8 turnouts. I used what I had available so some brass,some nickel silver and some aluminum track. They are air powered. I realize this isn't quite what you are after but photos do help in planning.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Gotta love how that looks! 

Gary, your point about "toy" turnouts is an important one, my experience is better operation with "prototype" style turnouts. 

Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Rather than toy, try Sectional Track type switch, they are just part of that catalog. 

John


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 18 May 2013 01:32 PM 
Rather than toy, try Sectional Track type switch, they are just part of that catalog. 

John John,

I prefer your term.







I could not think of another "word" for them this morning. My bad.


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks for the photos Gary. I was thinking about using the #6's. My space is kind of limited.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

The photos were from Paul Burch.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My first (single) crossover was with Aristo 10' diameter (Wide Radius) switches...

Needless to say, they were replaced with a crossover using #6 switches. (the crossover is just out of sight to the right, train moving to left)

'nuff said?


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

Sorry for the mistake. Thanks for the photos Paul.


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## iowafarmboy1960 (Jan 6, 2008)

I ended up buying 4 #6 switches and a #3 crossover from sunset valley RR for my crossover. They also sold me some of their flex track to use on the straights between switches. so I can keep all the track for the crossover the same.


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