# NCE G WIRELESS CAB



## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Got the new NCE G Wireless Cab at the ECLSTS and does it ever work great. Had a range problem, there was an area that I could not connect with, it was 20' walk and it would connect. Called NCE and they sent at no charge their 1/2 wave 6" antenna and now no problems any where. I can even control from the neighbors deck. My only problem is I run after work allot at nite and the unit doesn't light for operating sessions. It will light for short periods while programing but thats it. NCE said it was Johns choice to make it work that way to save battery. So now besides the controller I have to use a flashlight so I am using more battery anyway. I asked NCE if I could send it in and have it changed and they said NO, I said I would pay shipping both ways and what ever labor it cost. I didn't care if I have to change batteries sooner or switch to more expensive Li-On's for me it would be worth it but the said NO. Is there anyone out there that has figured out how to do this. Sounds easy since the screen does have a light but they decided not to use it. Add a switch or can you change the programing of the unit. On the QSI site where they compare this unit against the Aristo Rev. it says lighting is optional guess they are wrong and they helped develop this unit. Call QSI and they said call NCE. If I knew this before purchase I might have held off, but the units functions great anyway so I will keep and will have to locate a miners hat. Any help would be great. Thanks Jake


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

any help with this would be great. Jake


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have not found this information.

I was trying to get the backlight to stay on longer on my "normal" NCE wireless cab. 

http://markschutzer.com/index.htm

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn/index.htm

You might contact these two guys, or get on the NCE Yahoo forum.

Regards, Greg


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Greg, thats for the help, I changed mine today and added the switch. Took about 20 min to do and works great. Will let you know if battery life is a problem, so far 5 hrs later and still going strong and bright. Jake

*Procab Backlight Controls*
Mark Schutzer

April 9, 2010
This document will show one how to modify the backlight control circuitry in a radio PowerCab/Procab/G-wire cab to allow the LCD backlight to be controlled independent of the processor.
CAUTION and WARNING: Any modifications to the cab are done at your own risk and may invalidate the warranty on the cab. Proceed at your own risk! This will involve soldering wires onto small surface mount components that may be damaged if too much heat is used. You should be competent with a soldering iron. Okay now that you have been warned here is how the backlight control works.



The little section of the schematic above shows the controlling circuitry for turning the backlight on and off. The line that connects to the junction of R13 and R14 and runs off of the bottom of the schematic (red arrow) runs over to one of the processor pins. The processor pulls this line to 0 volts to turn on the backlight. 
If you want to independently control the backlight you need to cut the trace at the red arrow to disconnect it from the processor and replace this connection with a wire running between the junction of R13 and R14 (blue arrow) and a ground point (black arrow). If you want to be able to manually switch the backlight on and off then you can put a small slide switch in line with this wire.
If you do not want to cut any traces and you just want to have the backlight on all the time then you can unsolder the base resistor R14 and rotate it 90 degrees so that one side of it still connects to the base of Q1, but the other end will now be connected to nothing. Solder a wire from the open end of R14 to ground (black arrow).

The picture of the Procab board below is annotated with arrows showing the same points as above, but this time on the physical hardware. 

To make the backlight control modification follow these steps:
Cut the trace with a sharp Xacto knife at the point of the tip of the red arrow in the photo above. Be sure to cut all the way through the copper trace. This will isolate the control circuitry from the processor pin.
Connect a wire between the end of R14 (at the tip of blue arrow) and ground (the pad at the tip of the black arrow).
The backlight will now be on all the time. If you want to manually be able to switch it on and off put a SPST switch in line with the wire. A miniature slide switch mounted somewhere on the side of the ProCab case would work.

That’s all there is to it.
Again, proceed at your own risk…


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll ask Mark if I can link to it on his site, or put it up on my site... nicely done... I'll do the mod too, I think a small toggle on the side of the head might do it. 

I'm thinking of a modification to his, on the "regular" wireless cabs, the back light stays on for a few seconds when using certain buttons... think might wire up the switch to allow that to function still, but then override it to always on. 

In the Gwire case, the backlight was never on... 

Great progress... 

Regards, Greg


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## 6323 (Jan 17, 2008)

I've seen the review for this throttle in the latest Garden Railways magazine. 
Looks like it's much better than theT9000 that I have, that's been damaged beyond repair! 
Now, what I'm wondering, is where can I find this throttle for a reasonable price? 
Thanks.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I like Robby at RLDHobbies.com 

*[url]http://rldhobbies.com/qsi_1.aspx* [/url]


Regards, Greg


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