# Help with Accucraft Goose #2 gearbox



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

My pal Jack has an Accucraft Goose #2 (boxcar back end) and he's asking for help to fix the gearbox. It is definitely slipping - seems that the work gear isn't meshing with its partner on the axle. It's not just one tooth that is gone - seems to be wear on the whole plastic axle gear.

Here's a photo of the gearbox on the axle (not ours.)










We haven't taken it apart yet, as I'd rather wait until we can find a possible solution. Has anyone ever fixed one of these? Know of a source for spare gears? Anyone got a replacement gearbox lying around?

Edit: on reviewing photos around the web, I note that the other geese seem to use the same gearbox. (e.g. Goose 5 is pictured on Greg's site.) If you have a scrap goose and it has a gearbox that looks like this one, please let me know.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Back again. Turns out NWSL sells the gear and it press-fit on the shaft, which you see on the LH side of the gearbox above.

Jack has found that the shaft drops down after use below the gearbox and below the railhead, so it catches everything. What seems to be happening is that the gear isn't a real solid fit on the shaft and, as the motor drives the gearbox, it is slipping a little and gravity pulls the shaft downwards. [The shaft fits in a loose coupling above the gearbox to meet the motor shaft - eventually the shaft will come out of the coupling and the drive will no longer work - but it's scraping the ties by then.] 

So, we appear to have a stainless shaft and a nylon gear and we need to make them stay connected. Don't have a machine shop, so we can't mill a flat on the shaft or put a collar on the gear. Glue probably won't work.

Any ideas ?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Try the wicking grade of Loctite--make sure no oil in joint, then just a bit applied with a needle. After 15 min or so, remove any excess so it does not migrate to the wrong places. Do this on both sides of the gear if you can.
As I just mentioned in a thread above, we have moved and my LS stuff is still packed, so I don't have the Loctite number. Looking online will find the grade to use.

Larry PS Pete--have you figured out where you are moving to?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Use a separating disc to rough up the axle in a couple of places and a needle file inside the gear? Not continuous, mind you, don't want to compromise diameters ... just add tooth.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> a separating disc


We don't have a machine shop (or engineering training.) What's a 'separating disc' ?

Oh never mind - we have Google now. Looks like a Dremel cutting disc or similar. They don't work well on stainless, in my experience.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

If you just want a flat, you should be able to file one. If you are thinking about a set screw it does not have to be a very big flat, just enough the screw has something to press against. A needle file should do the trick.

Hope this helps.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Pete Thornton said:


> We don't have a machine shop (or engineering training.) What's a 'separating disc' ?
> 
> Oh never mind - we have Google now. Looks like a Dremel cutting disc or similar. They don't work well on stainless, in my experience.



Wasn't intended to cut it, just rough it up for Glue Tooth and yes the right disc can cut Stainless, it's not impervious. My track is Stainless and I whack it with all kinds of cutters ...


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