# Painting figures in G-scale



## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Hello,

not much traffic in this part of the forum...

so maybe I should show part of my latest medelling project, some figure painting.

First, there is a lot of talented people on the internet, showing pictures, videos on youtube etc, with guides and how-to about figure painting. Specially military modellers sometimes makes exellent work, also this forum has shown very good figures previously. My skills are not really in the top leage, and I don't consider this as a guide, showing how to paint figures, but rather showing my way of paint figures.

The figures I have been painting lately are from ebay, they are sitting, and bought cheaply in bags of 6 or 12.











First step is as usual, clean up the castings. There is not much flash but some of the mold parting lines are pretty big. I use a sharp knife to cut and scrape the figures, I also use an old dull knife for scraping, this is more or less a polishing operation. A file is used sometimes, but it can leave ugly marks on the figures, so the last operation is always done with the dull knife.
There might be a some holes or gaps here and there, I use ordinary filler, intended for wood working. I also drill a 3 mm hole in all the figures, and then press a round 3 mm magnet in the hole. The magnet is for mounting the figures easily.





After the clean up, I wash the figures with an old tootbrush and washing agent, and rinse with a lot of water. From this point I'm always very careful about having clean hands when handling the figures, to avoid grease.


For painting I have used several different brands of acrylic paint. In the old days I was a big fan of Humbrol paint, first time I used Humbrol must have been close to fifty years ago.
I don't buy any more Humbrol, and hardly use the old stock I already have. Water soluble paint of today is so much better.
The acrylic paint of various brand has been very good, in example for painting wooden houses i G-scale, but for painting plastic figures, they are acceptable, but not good. To get a layer of paint that really covers the surface without the underlying colour to shine through, I had to apply rather thick coating of paint, or several thin layers. Some details get lost in the process.



The only general acrylic paint that is good is this one, that I bought at Panduro, an art shop. Of couse, they have since stopped selling this particular type of paint.



For this particular project I bought a set of small tubes with acrylic paint. Good thing you get a
decent set of different colours, but also this paint needs several layers to cover well.
The different brown was ok, but green and blue needed several coats.





Best paint is Vallejo, I believe this is the brand mostly used by military modellers. Covers very well, and is available in many different colours. But the price, makes 21 year old whiskey cheap. 



Back to the painting, usually I start with a coat of beige all over. This makes is easier to detect any remaining mold lines. The magnet makes it easy to put the halfdone figures on a small piece of steel sheet, they just sit there and wait for the next coat of paint.
The guy on the left side is coated with beige paint, the right one is straight from the box.



Work in progress, usually I start painting from the top, first the head, hair, face etc, then the upper body, shirt, then the hoses, and finally the shoes. Sometimes the sequence is different, usually caused by problems. I currently have a problem with the old woman and her hair, I have re-painted it several times, but it continues to look strange.



It's dangerous to use the camera, I thought the guy in the grey coat was finnished, but looking at the picture,
I realize his tie is not painted, of couse he is not wearing a white tie, rather a red one.



When picking out the tie, I screwed up, and put red on several places it should not be. Some clean up was required,
now he is back in business. Although you can see, I have another problem, how to paint male lips. Females can have bright red lips, but men ususally don't use lipstick, so bright red lips are not correct.



To be cont.
Regards Kjell


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

What do you use to apply the paint? Do you modify store bought brushes for tiny detail in tight areas (eyes, etc.) or use a toothpick, etc.


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

As a beginner at modeling, Thank You for this thread.

(but men ususally don't use lipstick, so bright red lips are not correct.)
*His Lips match his tie!*


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Semper Vaporo said:


> What do you use to apply the paint? Do you modify store bought brushes for tiny detail in tight areas (eyes, etc.) or use a toothpick, etc.


I use a small brush, and a very small brush, but for eyes I have used a metal sharp point.

Work in progress.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Some progress, have to redo the fat guys eye


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Kjell! Love the tip on the magnet! Saves me from having to glue my peeps in place. And can be more easily removed 

-Jim


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

For the lips on male figures, I mix the skin tone paint with just a hint of red to get something redder than skin but not bright.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I actually use a barn red or brick red rather than red red for mixing in for lips and red cheeks.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

*Why I'm using magnets*

I'm a member of a group, Stockholm Live Steamers. We have a portabel layout, and we set it up for public running sessions a few times a year, usually as part of an event at a museum.
IMHO you should not run a empty engine, you should run a train. The rolling stock in the train should not be empty, there should be passengers in the coaches, load in the open goods wagons etc.

When we run our live steamers in public, usually there is a lot of families with children around, and to entertain the kids (and their parents), my loads are usually in the fun and whimsical category. I often have Donald Duck with friends standing on a flat car. But this is problematic, if I put eight standing figures and run on our sometimes bumpy track, after a few laps, most of the figures are laying down, and one is dropped on the floor. Same goes with the more serious load I sometimes use, put a wooden box or a barrel on a pallet and run a few laps, then the load is dropped from the pallet.
I didn't want to glue the load to the flatcar, because I like to change the load easily. Then I read somewhere about putting magnets in the load, bougth some magnets from e-bay and started testing. Testing was good, with magnets attached to the pallet and to the load, it will not move.

When I talk about magnets, I refer to what is usually called Rare Earth Neodymium magnets. They are available in many different sizes, initially I used cylindrical magnets, with 6mm diameter, 2 or 3 mm thick, but soon found this is overkill. Today I'm using mostly 3 x 3 mm, this is sufficient for my purpose, in many cases it's possible to drill a small hole in the foot, and then push in a magnet.
Can you see the magnet ? It's inside the pallet.



Loads, for example a wooden barrel can have a magnet in the bottom, like this one, but it could be even simpler, just use a steel nail or screw.





One of my favourites, the whimsical Goofy, playing saxophone. The microphone stand is very top-heavy, it will not stand by itself on a table. But it has a magnet in the bottom plate, and is stable when put on the flat car. Reason for this, the flat car has a thin sheet of tinplate glued on top of the floor, and on top of that a new floor of thin wood, the wood is less than 1 mm thick.





My usage of magnets have developed further, I have a built-up scene (for Goofy playing saxophone) and a small ladder for him to enter the scene. This is a detail that might brake in transport, if it was glued in place. Now the ladder is not glued, it is held in place by magnets. Note the tiny steel piece in the uppermost step.





I have found these magnets very handy, one benefit is when painting figures, I can set the wet painted figures on a shelf made by steel plate when drying.
The figures I'm currently painting all have a magnet in their back, most likely they will end up sitting on a seat or bench made of steel.

Regards Kjell


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Have you tried using Testor's flat enamel paints on your figures? Cost is less than a 21 yr old whiskey, but they only come in 3/4 oz bottles.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

interesting thread. i hope, you continue it.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Thank you for comments.
Sometimes the preparatory work is not really good, this guy I have to re-do, the mold line on the leg looks really bad. 



A few halfdone fugures. Funny how different lightning an change colours, the rightmost man has a really lemon-yellow skirt, while the photo looks more yellow-green.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Work in progress, it takes a lot of time painting very small patches 



These are considered finnished, whatever that means...


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

As usual, work in progress...



I went to the art shop a copule of days ago, and returned with another kind of paint. This paint was really good, covers well, and dries very fast, actually I would prefer a slightly longer open time. 



Of course I was joking about 21 year old above, but the Valejo paint, that is very good cost about $3.5 for a whopping 17 ml, while this paint was about $4.2 for 100 ml. Prices may vary, I'm located in Sweden and exchange rates also change over times, but this is the current prices.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Hey there  For those located in Sweden, I don't know what the equivalents to the below would be.

For me, I have decent luck using the acrylics over an undercoat of cheap flat white spray enamel from Walmart. 
Started doing that after seeing it went on in a lot lighter coat than I had expected. It has a surface the acrylics like to grab. I've even successfully painted over it with those acrylics before it is totally cured, meaning a couple hours later that same day.

Another primer I use when not in the mood to spray, or the weather doesn't allow doing so outdoors, is a white colored solvent based brush on primer in the "Do it best" brand from I think it is True Value hardware stores. Current can label says "Rust and corrosion protection rust coat enamel".
$9.29 for a quart, but that quart will go a very long way painting On30 figures, 28mm gaming figures, and figures in the various flavors of G scale.
Have successfully used all kinds of craft paints over it; and, both acrylic and enamel model paints - brands I've used being, Apple Barrel, Ceramcoat, Folk Art, Testors 1/4floz classic enamel, Testors Model Master both enamel and Acryl, Polly Scale acrylics, Tamiya acrylics, Vallejo, Games Workshop. 

Might be things to give a try if you want.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Yes, using a good quality primer is probably a good idea. Now this project is soon over, but maybe next time.

Work in progress, as usual. The guy in the red skirt is driving me crazy, I have at least three times paint his eyes, but fail every time. At one time right eye was good, but not the left. Next time I'll try doing both eyes at the same time, maybe with better luck.


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## se38005 (Oct 18, 2010)

Here they are, 30 figures on file. Also note, picture taken outdoors. It is still very early to call it spring here in Sweden, but we have had warm weather now for a couple of days, with temperatures above 0 (above 32 F) and the snow is gone.

This project started when I got 30 figures from Ebay, and now when the figures are painted, I call the project done. Looking close, there are some touch up that could be done, and maybe I'll do that later.





To add some conclusion about this project,
Initially I wasn't impressed by the level or quality of the details of the figures, but actually the details are there, and enhanced with a little paint, they show up.

It takes a lot more time than I expected, one hour of work may result in covering an area in size comparable to one or two stamps.

Use quality paint, it makes the job easier, faster, and probably with a better end result. The paint in the small tubes I got for this project were not very good, yellow, pale red and to my surprise also the medium brown (burnt sienna) all required several layers of paint to look good. On the other hand, all shades of green covered reasonable well. Also, after drying there is a kind of sticky feeling of the surface, and it attracts dust. Starting with a good quality primer may also make the future painting better. Working with glossy and flat paint makes a difference, using mostly flat or semi flat
but glossy black for well polished shoes, that made a difference.

Ending this with a final picture of four elderly women, at first I thought this particular figure was really low on detail, but actually this is not true.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Nice collection of figures there. Oh, from here on out, you'll be finding something to touch up every time you look at a figure


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

I appreciate your info , and the magnetsa are a great idea
Dennis


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Useful postings. Thanks for starting this topic.

I used to not like painting figures. But after trying some of the low cost acrylics paints from stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby I actually enjoy it now.

These three figures were painted using craft paint by FolkArt, Apple Barrel and Martha Stewart (interestingly paints all made by Plaid):










The key I've found for unpainted figures is to start with a quality thin primer. My preference is Tamiya Fine Primer. If I'm painting over an already painted figure the primer isn't needed.

The park ranger was repainted (I painted over an already painted figure) and didn't need a primer. He used to look like the police figure on the left:


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## Mark L Horstead (Jan 2, 2008)

One little hint:

Paint the whites of the eyes first, and don't worry if the paint goes "outside of the lines", then the irises, then (if desired) eyelids and lips in a slightly darker colour, then eyebrows.

Paint the flesh tones afterwards. It's a lot easier, and allows for more natural eye and lip shapes.

The same can be done for clothes. Paint the tie first, then the shirt, then the jacket.

It is always easier to paint the small or narrow things first, then the surrounding coloured areas.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

well, I got inspired and am following SanJuan
some Ozark figures from xmas, which I painted this weekend, rather hastily, (which I see shows now in the close ups...) 
Eyes, oddly look fine on the bench, with shadow from the overhead light at a 1ft distance, but not so much in a close up
will need to add an iris
the bindle stiff on the platform is Preiser, for a size comparison
the Ozark figures are 1:20. but imho are so close they work fine with Prieser and any difference would be the same as the difference between taller and shorter humans


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)




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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)




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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)




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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

god those close ups are revealing.......
some touch up work I think......well actually, quite a bit....

I have to say, this weekend I went to the art supply store, and went to buy some Golden acrylics, and found a starter set of 7 basic acrylics, and, a color wheel, which shows how to make any color you like, and how to get differences in tone and chrome...absolutely the coolest thing....I am no longer bound to ready made colors.

And, you can see, well sorta, I did okay with some mixing for the first time. I wanted more subdued colors, but for the lady passenger. She was almost painted a celadon green, but I decided lavender with white hem and trim would be more eye catching. I think I made the lavender a bit too strong. Its OK, but not quite right. I think its too brilliant for an older type of dye. Having done the white trim, I did not try an overwash to dull things down.

I don't know if you can see it, but the red shirt has an overwash of the same color, but with a tinge more white and yellow, as I wanted it to look slightly faded.....its subtle in hand, but significantly different than when I first painted it straight red.

I have a lot to learn, but this was truly wonderful. The chart included with the basic tubes takes all the mystery of how to get the exact color you desire, which was something I had no idea of how to do, not having color theory or any artistic training. btw, set was, I recall, about $60.00, and likely more paint than I will likely ever use, unless I populate a city, or undertake some large structures.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a note. Transparent paints used for sun catchers (they resemble stained glass) are also good for colored lanterns and marker lights. I have had a hard time finding the paints separate from sun catcher kits, but I suppose that they are out there.

Cheers,
David Meashey


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

the answer Dave, is Tamaya. They make superb paints and, R-Y-G-B and Orange in an absolutely transparent paint, and the colors are brilliant and true- so much so, they come close to theatre gels in color trueness. Tamaya is most common at hobby shops that sell model planes and military models, as the line is designed for military models primarily. The paint, btw, is superb either in bottle or can, and gives a super smooth finish when properly applied. I think it is the best there is in a spray can, provided you can find the right color. I get as good or better a finish than I would using my spray gun set up, and its a lot less hassle.

I have used these on bright white LEDs and incandescent lamps to yellow, or orange or even red them 'down', ANd I have used them on LGB marker lights, to change the clear lens to a colored lens.

The little cast pot metal dollhouse lantern you see on the box on the loading platform is coated with red Tamaya.

It may not look quite so brilliant, as I painted right over the pot metal, no primer, to give it a darker red glass look.
Yet in the sun, it will definitely have a glint. I have often used the green or orange over a silver base paint to make bottles look better.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve;

"Tamaya is most common at hobby shops that sell model planes and military models" Well, that explains it. I have not been to the airplane shop since I got the ducted fan drive for this guy:










I'll have to poke my nose into that store again. Michaels and A. C. Moore seem to only carry the paint that comes with the sun catcher kits.

Thanks,
David Meashey


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Hey Steve, that's working! Intensity of lavender in the picture on this monitor looks okay for my tastes.
Mark's comment on eyes brings to mine those Sheperd Paine diorama books, and flyers in Monogram model kits, in the 1970s and 80s. I particularly remember his comment that people outdoors in full sun tend to squint a bit, and that reduces the amount of eye white seen.


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## Crisolite (Jan 9, 2008)

Good Evening.









Looking at a all these figures has inspired me to start painting again.
Here is a start.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Very Very good job, This has been inspiring
Dennis


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Crisolite said:


> Good Evening.
> Looking at a all these figures has inspired me to start painting again.
> Here is a start.


 Something about that fashionable fellow has me imagining Len from Dancing with the Stars as a passenger train Conductor. 
Can't figure out why, but it is so.
Okay, yes, my imagination has its own set of boundaries.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

isn't that Hitchcock?


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## Crisolite (Jan 9, 2008)

kormsen said:


> isn't that Hitchcock?


Yes that is. 
He was available for a limited time from Scalehumans.com if I remember right.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Painted these two tonight:




























It's an old AMT kit my sister got me for my birthday. We both really like Laurel & Hardy, and since the kit was 1/25 she figured it would work well with the G scale layout. 

They were primed...same gray primer as the car model. This made it easier for the craft paint to adhere. Next is glossy black for the car.


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## MJSavage (Dec 27, 2007)

Nicely done!


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

It's just my observation about eyes. Look at humans and you don't see white above or below the iris. The top and bottom of the round iris are cut of by upper and lower eye lids. Hardy, more than Laurel, looks closer to this and it softens his appearance. A person's eyes are not black disks with lots of white all around. Only the very small pupil is black the rest of the iris, especially from a distance is closer to medium grey. As you get closer only blue eyes really lose that medium grey at a distance until your within arms length. Last the eyes are not round they're variations of almond shaped. 

In the last few years you do see an increasing number of people showing bugged out eyes. But they invariably turn out to be zombies. So far as I know the zombie plague hasn't stricken our scale humans. Although I suppose It could happen. Probably we all should keep an eye out.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Actually, there are people that have the whites visible on 3 sides of the iris and some on all sides (very rare). The Japanese term is Sanpaku, meaning "3 whites". Usually (though rare) it is the sclera below the iris that is visible (known as Yin Sanpaku), but sometimes (rarer still) it is the part above that is visible (known as Yang Sanpaku). I don't know the term for when all sides are visible (most rare).

There are all kinds of superstitions associated with the condition, usually predicting that the person has some sort of evil associated with them. Yin Sanpaku people are believed to be prone to danger. And Yang Sanpaku people are said to be self destructive.


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## Crisolite (Jan 9, 2008)

Chris I like the shot with all the different eyes. It gives some good examples even with the odd color contacts.

I've started to fill some passenger cars. I'm still not getting the eyes even but in the car I don't you'll be able to tell.








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## Crisolite (Jan 9, 2008)

Here are a couple shots of the figures in the car.










I didn't fill every seat, I don't have enough figures. By staggering the figures from the side view more windows have a figure in them.









The conductor seems to have a thing for Miss Jenny









.
The lamps are from a doll house supply. I believe it was Doc Watson who first pointed them out


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

That works. Figures seem to add life to cars in greater proportion than the number of figures actually there; unless you have just one or two figures, then they look lonely.
(we'll just kindly overlook that my cars have no figures at all)


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Great info on the eyes. But dang are they tough to paint...even with my super small brush or even a toothpick.

Finished their car. But somehow they ended up on the HO layout 

"Here's another nice mess you've gotten me into"


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt,

On the eyes, paint them first and work from the inside out. First paint the whites, which should have just a touch of red not pure white. Then paint the irises, then the pupils if wanted. Now paint in the eyelashes with a dark brown to black to shape the eye. Finally paint in the eyelids with a darkened skin color. Paint in the mouth with a slightly reddend skin color. Now paint the rest of the face with the normal skin color you want.

This way you can slop paint away from the feature as it will be covered up by the nest layer. So you only have to worry about the edged next to the previously painted part.

Hope it helps.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Good job on your painting. Best brushes to use are watercolor brushes. They have the short handles, the long handle ones are for oils and tend to be a stiffer bristle. Get your brushes at an art store, buy the best quality you can. When cleaning them, wash they twice with soap and water, then rinse. 

I got some USA figures recently, paint is not bad on them and once in a coach you can't really tell as the coach goes by if they are painted well or not. Paint is better than those groups you get on ebay that are painted. ALL have black hair!
http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/gunjeep444/mth/USAfigures.jpg


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Here's a fellow painted several years back who illustrates what Rich was saying, though his face is a bit blurry because the literal focus of the image was the Woodland Scenics snow flocking used for his jacket's fleece collar.
IMG_0974 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

Edit: just snapped a couple of quick images with head more focused. (his, not mine) 

IMG_2437 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr

IMG_2438 by Forrest Wood, on Flickr


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