# Brand of track and your personal preferences - the good, the bad and the ugly!



## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

All,

I have been looking at the different types of track out there and I would like everyone's opinion on what brand they use and why. Better yet, if there is a link that describes the differences in track brand names that would help as well.

Here are some areas for discussion:

- General Brand of solid brass Track
- USA Trains
- LGB
- Aristocraft
- Pico
- others?

- General Brand of hollow Track
- Lionel
- Bachmann
- others?

- Material track is made of
- Brass
- Aluminum 
- Stainless Steel
- other?

- Construction of track
- Solid
- Hollow

- How they clamp together

- Use
- Indoor
- Outdoor

Just trying to get a good feel for the various track types that I see out and the good, the bad and the ugly of the different types. Thanks everyone that responds!

Rich
(Grandpa again today! #5)


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## Nohandles (Jan 2, 2009)

I've had Aristocraft track for 11 years until last spring when I took it all up. It is still in good condition, the ties are strong and still plyable. I used it simply because there wasn't much to choose from and it was available from a lot of dealers and train shows.


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Aristo and USA here, have had it down 1 year + so far no problems, I am going to try some ss curves here shortly to compare with. The 250 is less priced but if you are using 332 you then have to buy these track connectors to connect the 250 to 332 adapter type connectors to transition I have been told. They are $5.00 a piece or less. The Regal p.s. I'm stickin to 332 unless the ss outlasts the brass, but when you are battery power, they could be wood planks and still work. hee hee LOL


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm using Aristo Craft 332 Brass and so far it does a decent job. Brass needs to be cleaned more often than SS. 

If I could afford SS I would use it. SS hardly ever needs cleaned. 

Aluminum while cheaper bends easy and wild animals not to mention humans can bend it simply by stepping on it. 

If you want the rail to be true to the scale you are modeling then the other brands have shorter rail height that look more to scale. Hollow rail track isn't worth buying as it is apt to rust while in the box if you only ran the train around Christmas time. Track with wood ties typically will rot a way in one season unless you're in a very dry location like southern cal. 

If you're going to use track power and can afford it, buy SS


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

I am using Llagas Creek code 215 aluminum rail narrow gauge ties. In my opinion this is the best looking closest to scale and least costly of all the commercial track options.

However, I do use battery and live steam only and as well, all my track is elevated.

I suspect that aluminum track is not the best option for a track powered ground level layout that will see rough use.

Regards ... Doug


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

In addition to all the excellent comments above:

I'd cross hollow track off your list unless you really want the cheapest indoor track, and tight curves... 

For track power, I'd recommend rail clamps, and there's a range of them that are reasonably enough priced that if you cannot afford them, then just use brass track and solder jumpers.


For battery power, the joiners are pretty much no nevermind, most any stock joiner will keep the rails well enough aligned.

I have a web page that goes over a lot of what you asked:


*[url]http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/track-aamp-rail-material-mainmenu-94*[/url]

Regards, Greg


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Bachmann Starter (Christmas) set to start with. Not thriiled with how swiftly the track got dirty and with how flimsy it was. I aquired some more on the side in EBAY transactions, but... welll...these days, it is relegated to seldom used yard spurs where the locomotives seldom go. I am more impressed with the Bachmann switches, though. 

I picked up an olde Lionel starter set shortly after getting the Bachmann one. Yes it is hollow, but it is a bit more sturdy than the Bachmann track. I've since picked up a fair pile of that stuff, mostly R1 and R2 curves. The switches look to be fairly decent. Mostly, it is for spur lines - the Lionel 5' diameter track is actually a slightly tighter turn than the Aristo or LGB 5' diameter track which could come in handy. 

I've also been collecting new and used Aristo brass track, which is what I use for the mainline. The teeny tiny screws are a pain: I've lost oodles of them. But once together...well, its together. I think I have only used Aristo switches, and those were so well used I had to rebuild them. My personal verdict is out on them yet. 

Most of my switches and a few other odd bits of track are LGB. I have had some derailment issues here, but by and large have been able to work through them. 

Of course, at the moment, I have no trains running because the train room is a even bigger mess than usual (I'm indoors) and will get bigger yet in a week or two when I totally redo the layout, mostly because of the 'reach' thing (but that is a topic for another thread).


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a mix of LGB and Aristo, was on the back patio for years, now moved to ballast and mud land. No problems with either. I have bought much of it secondhand, especially the LGB, often for $2 a foot or less. Had a few Aristo rail joints break, but that is the only problem. Using SplitJaws now. 

I have some Accucraft coming via UPS and the need for at least one Train Li point, so in a while I will be able to share that info too.


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

I am a battery and RC guy, so I bought Used dirty track...LGB and Aristo


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks everyone that has responded so far! This has been a great help. 

As a side note, has anyone had experience with Kalamazoo track?

RJR


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I managed to acquire a significant quantitiy of TDV/A1/H&R Trains SS track and have decided that for the most part my track will be stainless although I've got a little of everything. So far none of my stuff has ever been set up permannetly or for any longer than a holiday display or to steam up for the Boy Scouts. I've been buying Aristo SS 332 when I cna find it at a good deal. I've got a bunch of LGB 332 brass and some Aristo Brass as well. I've got Bachman starter sets and Lionel starter sets as well. I also recently bought some code 250 brass from AML I believe for a portable track for the live steamer. None of this has been extensively used though and most never used. I own no aluminum rails so far. I think I do have some steel rusting away someplace though? 

Greg's website and George Schreyer's website have the best references on track. GR did a review a year or two ago on track available then. Track is the start of a very personal set of choices about YOUR railroad. As has already been shown some folks run battery and have no need for rails some commit to other forms of control that rely on power of some sort thru the rails. Type's of trains and fidelity to scale are also considerations. Good luck with what ever you decide. 

Chas


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

My track is mix of Aristo/USA and LGB code 332 brass track, but I use LGB switches exclusively, too many derailment issues with Aristo switches. I use the standard joiners as much as I can, with a dab of conductive grease in between, but I also use Hillman (mostly) and Split-Jaw clamps where needed, like at all the turnouts so they can be removed if needed. I'm also Indoors, so oxidation is not as big an issue for me. All I do is run a track cleaner around every now and then and I can run quite fine.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Get code 250, your trains look much more realistic with it. SVRR makes it in NS, stainless, aluminum and brass.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I just stick with the Aristo 332 SS for get about all that scale looking junk. Been there done that. Later RJD


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have Aristo brass track. It has been outside since 2001 and I have had no major problems with it. I have used Hillman rail clamps in those areas that I have continuity problems, especially in my tunnels which are about 7 feet long. I clean my track with an LGB track cleaning loco which is battery powered. I use the LGB track cleaning block on all turnouts which are also Aristo. They have been "tweaked" using tips published by George Schreyer, and operate with Sunset Valley switch stands. 

Stainless was not available when I built my layout, but would be in consideration if I was starting again.


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks for all of the feedback to date. This has been great. 

Some general observations so far: 
- It appear that code 332 is probably easier to manage and performs better (with most available cars) than code 250 especially for the novice, however if you are going for realism then the 250 is a better choice. Is this a fair statement? 
- It also seems that stainless would be the best but cost is a real consideration here. After stainless, brass appears to be the best compromise between cost and maintenance. 

Has anybody seen any real difference between the USA track, Aristocraft and LGB in the same venue (brass in all for example)? 

Thanks again, 
Rich (new grandson is doing great!)


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich,
My first layout was Aristo and USA code 332 brass. My current layout is AMS code 250 brass. From MY point of view, I had more problems with the code 332. I was sold on the AMS 250 because it was flex track, thus allowing me to make ANY curve I wanted, including nice easements into each curve. One caveat is that I've always used batteries outside. You can see some pictures of it being built over here: 

J&B Construction Log


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been very happy with my Aristo SS track for track power. I have used Aristo brass and AMS 332 brass for battery layouts with good results. The AMS is nice flex track but I'd be pretty sure the new Aristo flex track is similar. 

-Brian


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich,

I have Aristo 332 brass track. As I don't have miles of it cleaning is no problem. I might well consider s/steel if I was just starting out in the hobby but I don't think I knew of it when I first started laying track.


Code 332 suits me - animals and clumsy humans are less likely to damage 332 than the smaller Codes in my view.


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

I have predominantly Aristo brass track given that I am 100% battery power on my railroad. I have a little LGB track, and several LGB switches. One thing I like about the Aristo track is that the plastic ties come with a lifetime guarantee. I have some old used LGB track that I purchased used, and some of those ties have seriously deteriorated. In addition, between the Aristo and LGB, I like the connectors with the "little screws" better than the pressure fitting on the LGB. I know many with track power use clamps, but being battery I don't, and I like the firm connection of the screw as opposed to the slide on clips. Other than that, I don't see much difference between these two particular manufacturers.

Ed


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Everything runs fine on my code 250.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry, whose track do you have? 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Any rail material in either of the two common sizes (code 332 and 250) will be fine if the foundation for the track is solid. I had code 250 aluminum out in the garden for a number of years on my old line, and it withstood being stepped on, being pulled by the garden hose, the neighbor's cat digging it up, larger wildlife... The only thing that damaged it was a 4" tree branch. Like anything, if the foundation is strong, whatever you put on top of it will do well. The smaller rail size looks better, and I've yet to encounter anything that won't run on it. If you want "the best of both worlds," go with Sunset Valley's stainless code 250 rail. Stainless is by far the most durable rail material out there, and while I have yet to do scientific studies, I'd bet that it's more resistant to things that go "bump" than code 332 brass. I'm currently using code 250 brass track from AMS. It was actually cheaper than the code 250 aluminum I had used on my previous line, and had the advantage of one day weathering to a nice, dark brown. (It's been three years, it's getting there...) 

Code 332's primary advantage is that if you want to use sectional track, it's pretty much the only game in town. I'm not a fan of sectional track, as I fervently believe it inherently limits your creativity in planning your railroad. The small scale community eschewed sectional track decades ago, and--while still available--few model railroaders entertain it as an option. Flex track in this scale is a breeze to work with, especially with the advent of the 2-rail railbenders, such as the one from Train-Li. (Yes, it's expensive, and yes it's worth every last penny.) 

Your choice of material comes down to what you are looking to do. If you want to run track power (regular DC or DCC) then stainless is probably your best option. The drawback is that if you want a realistic rust color to the rails, you'll have to paint it. Brass and Nickel Silver are also good for track power, and have the advantage of weathering to a dark brown finish over time. (Some rails take longer than others, based on alloys and other factors.) You do need to clean brass more often than stainless. Aluminum doesn't have the best reputation for running track power, though there are some who swear by it. Personally, I wouldn't use it for track power, but if you're doing battery or live steam, then it's a viable option. Like stainless, you do need to paint the rails for a weathered appearance. 

Whatever track you choose, lay it well. The size of your rail or what it's made of doesn't matter if the track is so uneven the trains won't stay on. 

Later, 

K


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

I am Using Peco code 200 solid Nickel Silver, and will use some Hübner (now Märklin) switches.
I use them outside because they look great, but I can still run with LGB equipment on them when friends come over.
BRCSE during construction


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I have Sunset Valley 
http://www.svrronline.com/index.htm 
Bought my first batch about 16-17 years ago when it was Garich Light Transport in Calif. GOt some more a few years ago for my expansion. I use their brass clamps, my rail is NS and is a nice brown color when you get it. His(Peter) switches are really great also. Buy a strip of code 250 and 332, set your engine on it and step back, you will see what I mean. Code 250 makes it look real, 332 makes it look toylike. Mine has certainly held up fine over the years.


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## Guest (Jan 22, 2009)

if the brandname of track starts with "L" and ends with "B", i know, it is reliable.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Like Doug,

We use Llagas Creek track. We have code 250 nickel silver rail, with their plastic "narrow gauge" ties. 

Top notch track, and looks better (in my opinion) then the more common brands on the market. If you'd like to see some photos of what this track looks like, visit our layout website (link in my signature). And below are some links to photos of the track that are not on the website.

Track 1

Track 2

Track 3


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Matt, how has your track fared in respect to weathering and corrosion? Can you constrast the cleaning it needs to brass, i.e. have you had both at your location? 

I'm looking for experience with NS, very few people have it. I'd like to update my site with more current experience. 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, mine is NS and does fine. I don't have any brass to compare it to though.


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Greg, 
Help me out here - NS? 
Rich


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

NS = Nickel Silver

Following is an answer Greg's question about our experience with NS rail. I hope it doesn't pull too much away from the main post here but I thought it might be useful since NS is not an extremely popular rail choice with most largescalers.


When we started the outdoor layout around 2000, the plan was to initially go with track power. So I looked at the options out there, but we definitely did not want brass. For years (staring in 1983) we had an LGB Christmas tree layout that used LGB brass track. While it was quality track, I hated the color and appearance. Plus it sometimes needed cleaning even though it would be put away for most of the year and was always indoors.


The large scale layout, including the Christmas tree layout, was and always has been based on Colorado narrow gauge lines, so when the move to the outdoor layout happened I wanted to start with track that looked like what the D&RGW used. We also had been long into HO and were very familiar with NS rail. So when I saw Llagas Creek had code 250 and NS with narrow gauge style ties, it was an easy choice. Also it helped that I saw some in person on Greg Posta's layout. He had a few different vendors on his layout, but I liked the looks of Llagas the best.


Now to really answer your question (corrosion, weathering).

The rail stays pretty clean most of the time. While we do take in all of the turnouts (switch tracks) during the winter to avoid elk trampling, the rest of the track stays put year round. So far there has been little weathering. The rail oxidized color, as of now (8 years outdoors), is a nice grey silver. Not too far from what it looked like when new. 

When we used to run only track power, the rail would get a thorough cleaning with an LGB track cleaner (abrasive block) at the beginning of the season. I know I know, it is not recommended to use an abrasive block to clean since it can pit the rail and make more spots to collect dust, dirt etc... But it worked the best at cleaning the rails. 

Over the summer, especially after rains, a few light once overs with a kitchen rag type thing and maybe a little alcohol is all we need to get things back to smooth running. The alcohol was used to remove tree sap. Since we converted to mostly battery power we don't do much cleaning anymore. A couple of rag cleanings is all I do...and this is mainly just for some tree sap spots.

The amazing thing though, even without continual cleaning, the track still carries good conductivity. I know this because we have some switch marker lights that are powered through the rail. If I hook up the transformer and throttle up the lights come on. Pretty amazing without having to clean the rails. So I assume the locos would work fine as well. Hard to tell though when most are now battery powered. The move to battery power was mainly for ease of sound control and wireless control and didn't have to do with track conductivity frustrations.


As for brass, well we have never used brass track outside. But we did start out with SplitJaw brass rail clamps. Why brass? They were the only type on the market at the time. I hated them. Within one winter, they were almost black. And not only did they oxidize badly, I noticed electrical conductivity issues at these brass joiners. When SplitJaw introduced their stainless steel joiners, we replaced all of the brass with stainless. Now there are no problems whatsoever with electrical continuity through the joiners anymore.


I'm not sure if the problem with the brass joiners was due to mixing dissimilar metals (brass and NS) or if it was just due to the bad corrosion. Either way I hated them and they had to go.


It would be nice to have NS joiners, since the stainless joiners have yet to corrode at all and remain shiny. But at least they are silver and not brass yellow.

Our layout is in a fairly unique setting at 8200 feet in elevation in the San Juan mountains of Southwest Colorado. We typically get loads of snow that sits on the rails for most of the winter. During the summer we can get heavy heavy monsoon rains. When it's not wet, it is very very dry. Dry is actually the typical weather pattern for most of the year. So a lot of varying weather conditions to deal with. Yet the NS rail has done remarkably well through it all. In fact the only problem we've had with the rail...Elk hoofs


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I bought two rail roads form older guys ( older than me) who coulde not play out side any more. Idid this over the past 12 years. so I have a hoge poge of different brands of track. 

When I buy brand new I use Aristo only because the people I deal with stock it.

On the other hand I have a Train Li bender. So I can buy any smoking deal I see. New, Used, any brand, any curve. Because I can now bend it to any curve I want and even Un bend it to a straight piece 

So for me There is no GOOD BAD OR UGLY.

Right now I have 50 bundles of Flex Track Ties on the shelf . That way I can fix or re tie any bargin I buy.


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## themole (Jan 6, 2008)

I have used LGB track for nearly forty years it is strong and does the job(even had some LGB aluminum track in a starter set in 1969) Run trams/streetcars here with working live overhead.


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

John J,

Could you fill us in on the the Train Li track bender? It sounds like something all of us could use (or at least get one for your local garden train group). 

Rich


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm not john but I have the Train-li bender. Amazing tool. You build whatever track base you want--I use the ladder method--in whatever curve you want. Then you lay down whatever track you want to use, set the bender to roughly the right curve, and run it back and forth. The tracks both bend at exactly the same curve. You can adjust the curve on the fly by turning a wheel on the front--tighten it, and the curve gets tighter. I wish I'd had one when I started out. It's a great tool. There are other dual-rail track benders, train-li is the only one I've used. It can turn an R1 curve into a straight. It can turn a bunch of R1s into whatever you want. 


You don't need to buy flex track, either. You can bend any old sectional track. For more extreme bends you need to cut some of the plastic web between the ties. With aristo track, I take the screws out from under the rails. For small tweaks you just end it in place.


As far as track I've got a real mix of Aristo and LGB and AML, and some Aristo stainless


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks everyone that contributed here. I have decided to go with brass since it is the most affordable for me right now (I would have loved to go stainless but there is very little of it on the secondary market right now and budget is king!). In fact I ended up with quite a bit of USA Trains track NIB (in fact I have surplus of 2 - 10' diameter circles that I can not use), Aristo switches and LBG switches. As I progress this spring I will let everyone know how it goes (can't wait for the snow to melt). 

Thanks for all of your help. Greg, your website is fantastic and a great source of information. 

Rich


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Rich, put grease in the joiners when assembling, will help keep out water and air, which will keep down oxidation and corrosion. Any good lithium based grease will do, like wheel bearing grease with moly, usually black/grey. 

Regards, Greg


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Greg, thanks for the great tip (I suppose it's on your web site, but what isn't?  

Rich


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

actually, I'm going to revise and update my site, it's a bit light on the joiner/clamp issue, needs to be updated with some of the newer products... 

I just updated the main page that talks about clamps/joiners: 

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/track-powerwiring-mainmenu-237*

It's a work in progress, that's for sure! 

Regards, Greg 

p.s. comments and criticism is appreciated, this is a controversial issue for sure!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Ya Greg get with it before I forget all the captions I need to add for the projects you have added









Yes I also use a grease in the joint area. I use a contractors electrical type that is black/gray looking works good. Buy it a home Depot. Later RD


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