# SD-9 Building log



## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

Today, the last of the parts needed to start my SD-9 have arrived. [/b]
So tonight, the project begins, from the ground up. After waiting for years for Aristo to make the famed SD-9 I have given up [/b]
and am taking on this next project to get my creative juices flowing once again. To build the SD-9, you will nedd the following: [/b]
2 USA trains GP-7s or GP-9s [/b]
Roof details from a Aristo E-8 [/b]
a pair of Aristo SD-45 trucks [/b]
4 extra brake cyclinders from an Aristo or USA loco [/b]
a set of 4 ladders off of a LGB 40 foot steel boxcar. [/b]

These are the main parts you will need. Any others I will post in the building log as needed. [/b]
An update will follow with truck pictures later tonight or tomorrow. [/b]

Rocky[/b]


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## fsfazekas (Feb 19, 2008)

Go Rocky!! As an SP fan this is one engine I need to have. Have stared at my USAT GP-7/9 for many months while looking at SD9 photos but will gladly watch your progress. Good luck in advance!


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky,

I am interested in your build log. When I was with NS, they still had about 2-4 SD-9s in and around Chattanooga. One happened to be on the ready track, and I decided to 'inspect' it. It really stood apart from the slew of SD-40-2s and others. Good luck. 

Mark


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

*Well, not much to add, but here we go, starting from the ground up.*










* The trucks off of a SD-45 and one GP-9 fuel tank. *
*I will need to measure out a second tank as well as the first on to cut to the correct lenght, then it's off to frame world to splice and **dice a couple GP-9 frames together. I also think I will use the electronics from out of the SD-45 for the SD-9. *
*More later...*
*Rocky*


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well glade you figure it out that AC was not going to make this loco. So now we depend on you to make a unit for us and hopefully some of us can duplicate it.







. Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

*Well, that's the whole idea. A few of us will pick our brains, have long sleepless nights and go broke doing our own R&D to develope locos and freight cars that the manufacturers won't make. Then we will do a step by step build log with pictures so ours may learn how to build it themselves







When I built the 4-8-2 I spent well over $2000 buying 3 complete locos and details to build one steamer. Lucky enough, I was able to sell off some of the spare parts to bring back about $500. But my P-2 is priceless. I turned down one $5000 offer to sell it at the ECLSTS, but then again, this guy wanted the awards I won and credit that HE built it. No way, my loco is NOT for sale. The first one is ALWAYS kept by the builder, then the next few could be sold. IF I build more than one SD-9, I will keep the first 3 locos because I LOVE SD-9s Yet the parts(whole locos) and time invested are $$$ . But the photo build log and the advise is free - WOW what a deal *







* Rocky*


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

IF anyone have "MasterRocky" card??? priceless....... I know ROCKY Can't sell his favorite GN trains collection. Rocky Keep posting i looking forward see your project!


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you finish your GN SDP-40 yet rocky?


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey Bryan, *
*Just FYI the SDP-40 is ready for paint, as is the 3rd GP-20 and a 2nd GP-35. *
*There was many projects that were in progress when I packed everything up for a Evac. that never happened. *
*There a couple orange crate full of freight car projects that were being worked on at the time too. At least I DO have *
*a small micro layout and can run small micro trains. I am looking at starting to sell some of the military models and figures *
*to make room for more train projects. So that's a good thing. Anyway, I'm off topic and need to get to work this AM *
*so I can get home tonight and start frame chopping to continue the project. Rocky*


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky,
I certainly will follow your progress. I'm curious as to how you will handle some of the details like the side sills.


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Sweet!


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey Brian, *
*Your one of us R&D building guys right ?!?*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

*Ok, long day on condo restoration, so no work done on the loco. That is, no building done, *
*But the loco brain IS in motion. Problem is, I can't find my technical manual on BN locos, which gives *
*all the measurements I need to cut the GP-9 frames and fuel tanks to the proper lenghts to be *
*spliced. I did note that there is an over/under air tank configuration just front of the fuel tanks pior *
*to the lead truck (short hood) It's been sooo long since I saw my old favorite SD-9 BN 6102 ex. GN 575 *
*that I forgot all the details. I found a BN site with BN and a couple GN SD-9 photo, but no measurements. *
*So that's where I'm at. I'm going to dig out the box with the 2 GN GP-9s I got in a trade and get the shells *
*and fuel and air tanks ready for dicing. Once I have the measuements I can do the splicing







*
*THat's when the work will start heating up. Oh yeah, we may have a whirly coming this weekend, *
*a Great excuse to do kitbashing








Rocky *


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

I've got a collection of CB&Q SD-7/9 pictures but they are at home in Calif. and I am in Minnesota.


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Rocky, just a question... if you have a side on picture that hows the trucks, could you use that to figure out other measurements? If you know the truck has an axle spacing of X inches, you should be able to figure out the other lengths in the picture.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hi Jason, *
* Thought about that one too, yet I still want to be as exact as possible. I spent 2 hours last night looking around here for the book and now I will check storage when I go into the office. If it gets that bad, I will have to "eyeball" it. I think it's more important to get the fuel tank measurement because the frame I could calculate from the fuel tanks and air tanks inbetween the trucks. I will make progress on this tonight. Rocky*


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky why not get you a diesel spotters guide and then you will have the measurements that you need for the loco. Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey RJ, *
* I thought the spotters guide only has pictures and not the technical drawings I need. I will be going to storage at some point today to look for the BN manual. If not, I will use my micro slide rule tool and go after a few pictures I have printed out. Work has been suspended until I get a better way to measuse and there's plenty of 20 foot cars to build during thus time. Yet Friday will bring what will be tropical strom Bonnie into the area by afternoon then I will get things rolling again. I plan on taking the morning to be King and enjoy some 100% Kona coffee while running trains(weather permitting) and enjoy the morning of my B-day relaxing while having a bit of fun. When I find the manual, I'll post again







Rocky*


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

The March/April 1981 issue of Mainline Modeler magazine has a drawing of a GN SD9. 

EMD SD9 SD-9 573-599 Mainline Modeler March/April 1981 74 Great Northern SD-7 and SD-9 

http://www.greatnorthernempire.net/index2.htm?GNEGNPrototypeDrawingsDiesel.htm 

now all you have to do is locate a copy of the magazine! 
thats the tricky part.. 

Scot


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hey Rocky... found the entire 1981 year on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-Mainline-Mo...563d153fb6


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Sorry these don't have measurements... but I'd like to help you along as best I can....


















Sorry only one side...

Got these through google images, typed in; Great Northern SD 9

John


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky, Check your email.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Not much progress, but I did promise a picture !!!*
*Many thanks to Bryan for the info. I was looking for. a better effort will be put forth tomorrow. *
*This shows I am just trying to get ideas on how to do framing. I will need about 3" off of the second GP-9 *
*frame.*










* I know, it looks terrible, but shows that there's more that needs to be added to the frame lenght. *
*Also when trying to line up trucks on the frame, I may need to cut out sections from the SD-45 frame where the trucks mount onto **the frame. Perhaps 2 inches or so. Well, it's late and I'll be back at it tomorrow !!! *

*Rocky*


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

No Problem buddy! That Drawing plan is come from "Model Railroader" Cyclopedia-Volume 2 Diesel Locomotives.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Another good source is the car and locomotive cyclopedia. Pic your year. Lots of good stuff. Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* No Pictures yet, but I should have a complete frame spliced by tonight







*
* I have removed the skirts from the 1st GP frame and am about to cut it for lenght. Then I will have to trim the 2nd frame and remove the skirts. After that I will be cutting the frame and I'm ready for the splicing. The question now is lenght of the fuel tanks. I am doing the slide rule thing and mathimatics on size reduction. It'll be nice when that is done.*

*Rocky*


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky,
Are you going to model 6102? The following photo is interesting. Looks like it had a winterization hatch when this was shot. Split fuel tanks,one rounded from the top down and the other with some straight at the top. And, no dynamic brakes . That probably explains the air tanks behind the front truck.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/sh...x?id=16896

http://www.railpictures.net/viewpho...mp;nseq=15


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is another site that might help some.
http://www.thedieselshop.us/Data%20EMD%20SD9.HTML


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey Paul, *
* I wanted to model the BN 6102 loco back to it's former self, GN 575 because this was the loco I saw most switching in the BN's Northtown yards as I was growing up as a teenager into my 20s and 30s. Sad to here she was retired in '06 . I have several pictures of her, but am too lazy to scan and post, or is it I'm too busy - yeah, that's it







Here is a picture I found on-line of BN 6102, credit to the photographer.*
http://www.trainpix.com/BN/EMDORIG/SD9/6102B.HTM


* I've seen that two on a few GN SD-9s. I think for simplicity and to save money, I will make my spliced dual fuel tank out of 2 GP-9 fuel tanks. I am working on this right now. I have frame #2 ready for cutting and after I make the fuel tank assembly I will get a good idea of the frame lenght. Now unfortunately, the frame will be a little longer than the prototype because the trucks need to have some "swing" room by the stairs. THe prototype has the truck end behind the stairs by a little bit. This will not work well with curves shaper than 20 foot radius or switches smaller than #6s. As for the air tanks, most SD-9s I've seen have the 2 tanks over/under configuration hanging between the lead truck and the fuel tank. Now I figure a good lenght(1/29th) for each fuel tank will be about 60mm. Connected the fuel tanks will measuse about 123-124mm which I think will work. The math had it at 65mm each, but this will stretch the frame too long. Will it's back to the cutting torch- I mean cutting saw







Rocky*


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky,
Here is another way to get measurements. I have done this a few times in the past. Buy a dummy HO model and then resell it when done. Use a HO ruler or just measure and scale up 3 times.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ATHEARN-Cotton-...27b3ab89a8


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Rock, 

I'd be willing to scale a drawing doc/file for you; it’s pretty easy in ACAD. I can import a scanned 8.5x11" for example and scale it to 1:29 or whatever. All that is needed is a known dimension on the scanned drawing; for example a driver would do nicely. A little majic and I can send you a PDF-TIF-GIF-JPG whatever and you can have printed out anywhere, or I can print out on my plotter and forward it to you. 

Michael


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Sorry for the delay folks. Been getting tied up with projects and things. *
*But here is the latest progress pictures on the SD-9 project. THe frame is now spliced *


















* The two GP-9 frames have finally been diced and spliced. I put the weights on just to keep the frame on the trucks. *
*My next step will be to get the truck mounting pads off of the SD-45 frame and mounted onto the SD-9 frame. This will be more *
*dicing and splicing of these mounting pads. I'm so glad now that I've always saved all the extra Kadee screws and parts because I use **the 4-40 screws from the 830s to do my splicing.* 










*Speaking of splicing, this piece of splicing was part of one of the un-used GP-9 frames. The 4-40 screws will help hold the *
*2 frame pieces together besides glue. There is another splice piece under the frame. As I stated earlier, I will need to cut out *
*the area of frame where the trucks munt on the SD-45 and replace the truck mounting pads on the GP frames to mount the SD-45 **trucks on this spliced SD-9 frame. * 











* Now the fuel tank/air tanks under the frame. I see now that I will need to lower both the fuel tanks and the air tanks. *
*Also I will need to move the fuel fillers forward. I think I will need to use some styrene pipe and cap them at the fuel fill *
*areas when I lower the fuel tanks. Now the air tanks will also have to be lowered and I may need to cut off part of the other*
* set of air tanks to fill that "hollow" area when they are mounted. Also the tanks need to move a bit forward from the fuel tanks.*

* So that's it for now. It's nice to have the frame in one piece and get an idea of what the fuel and air tanks look like. *
*Once the frame, fuel tanks, air tanks and trucks are finished and/or mounted, the fun begins on the upper shell.*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* I was just going to add that I was looking at the SD-45 truck and realized that I could change it around on the mount and get the mounting stud on the other side of the mounting brackets. I made sure that I flipped the circuit board around as to not get the polarity backwards. So now I may not have to cut out the truck mounting pad portions of the SD-45 - work saved there, but I will have to make a template of that mounting pad as so I can cut out the grooves for the outer truck mounting studs in the GP(now SD-9) frame.*

*Rocky*


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## SilverSanJuan (Mar 12, 2010)

WOW! Beautiful splice job there. It's barely noticeable.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Progress marches on ...







*
*Earlier this morning I continued on with how to mount the trucks. I thought I'd have to dice and splice the sections of SD-45 frames where the trucks mount on to the GP frames. Well I had another idea. After last night's discovery on swapping the truck mounting bracket on the front truck, I found this AM I didn't need to be so evassive on the mounting of the trucks. I did pull out the SD-45 and made a template of the mounting stud holes for the SD trucks.*










*With this I was able to trace the areas to drill out for the truck mounting studs to fit into. - This has saved a TON of work








*
*It was quite messy cutting out the holes and I did a slot for the truck wires to go thru. Worked out quite well.*



















*So I was about to mount the trucks and found that I needed to trim off about 3/8" of the rounded bar type molding on top of the truck mounting bracket on each side of the mounting studs - fogot to shoot a picture of that, my bad. Then the trucks dropped right into place and I screwed on the retaining washer on top of the studs to hold the trucks in place.* 


















* So now the trucks are installed and they do pivot nicely. So I'm back to this picture stage.*










* Now my next move will be to fill the gap between the front truck and the air tanks. *
*I think I may move the fuel tanks ahead about 1/4" to 5/16" and move the air tanks forward from the fuel tank about 1/4" . *
*Then Fueltank and air tanks will have to drop down about 3/16" to 1/4". This will all be done at the same time. After that I will need to do some fancy dice and splice to move the fuel fills forward to their rightfull spots above the fuel tanks. Then it's time to start the shell*









*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

*Just to keep up on reporting... *
* Not much done this weekend on the project. Just putted on the shell a little Friday nite after the movie. *
*I first put the one GP shell on the frame to get an idea on how much more shell I'd need to add to match it up with the frame. *










*It now looks more like a GP9-2 - Ha, ha, ha







But this was more to get an idea for what's needed. I just took a picture of it.*
*What I did do next was to remove the old grab irons on the front of the short hood and fill the holes. Then I cut a couple LGB ladders from off of a US 40 foot steel boxcars to proper lenght, mark and drill holes for the mounting pegs and put the ladders in place. Next I cut off the steam generator parts off of the top of the short hood. This was about all I have done on the loco this weekend. More to come this week







Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* First off, no pictures this post, sorry. *
* Here's what's going on with the project. First off, I'm replacing the vent grilling next to the cab with thick styrene. Next I've cut off part of the battery boxes from the second shell to add to the model right next to the cab on the fireman's long hood side. And I am measuring the long hood shells and counting access doors on the long hood end to find out where I will be cutting the shells in order to splice them. I'm trying to do this in two pieces, but it might take three sections. Flanging out of the radiator grill work on the end of the long hill will be intresting. I have 2 different ways to do it. But I think the building out method where I will use styrene bar stock and peices is a more viable way to do this and it will allow for better shell integrerity- where the shell will remain strong and won't be fragile like an egg shell due to too many cuts and splices. Planning of the 4 radiator fans, winterization hatch and piping is pretty straight forward. That will have to follow the radiator "blister" building. Finally, the long hood ladders, hand brake and long hood plow would be some of the last things to do next to detail work. *

*Rocky*


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky, 
Even without photos, following your thought process on this helps visualize how to go about a bash like this. 

Chas


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* And now, some pictures







*
*First pictures will be of the shell, filling various things like front fans, steam generator and grill work behind the cab.*



















* I have also extended a battery box behind the cab. I will be adding grill work later on in the build.*

*







*

* Another thing I've done is splice the rear radiator grill work. Here is one of them.*

*







*

*So all in all, work is progressing step by step. I can't wait to splice the shells together. But I need to cut the shells where needed. It look more like a 3 piece shell splice. Yet tonight, it still looks like a GP9-2.*

*







*

* Stay tuned, there's more kitbashing excitement yet to come







*
*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Well after a trip to Peach land to vist with family, it's time to get back to work on the loco.*
*No pictures this posting, but I'm working on cutting the shells tonight. Hope to have the splicing and dicing done, then working begins on the rear radiator grill work and fans. I hope to get as many frame mounting studs to line up as possible. I hope to get pictures up as soon as I finish this next step.*

*Rocky*


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good so far Rocky. Yep getting the body studs to match will be tricky. I liked the way you mounted the trucks as I did a similar mount when I bashed my U 28 C. Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Long awaited posting... *
*Some progress has been made with what little time I've had to work on the model. First the shell spicing is still on going. I have cut both shells and have 2 of the 3 pieces sitting on the frame. I am still figuring where I will make the cuts on the middle piece and the long hood end piece. The cut will be a staggered one as I want it to interlock for strength and I want the long hood piece to use the last 4 shell mounting studs to secure the shell to the frame. Here is a current look at the project...*

*







*

* You will also notice that I have the diced and spliced dissected E unit fans and winterization hatch sitting on the long hood end. *
*Here is a closer look at the part module that I modified. This was one half of the the fan/hatch assembly off of the E unit with another fan section added from the second E unit fan/hatch assembly. I had also cut down the lenght of the winterization hacth from the E unit. It may need to be cut from the 3 fans and raised up a little bit.*

*







*

* So there is still alot of work ahead of me. Even though I have the piping from the E unit to use, I will need a second set to complete the pipe "loop" that mounts on the roof along with some brass pipe to hook the 2 sides together. The next step will be to splice and dice the 2 shells together, then splice to the short hood shell. After that I could work on many other details or ??? I still have the ladders to mount on the long hood end yet and then cut out the door on the one side of the long hood end and replace with a plate with the area cut out to mount the hand brake in. There is also the flanged out radiator grills and the "bugged" out top part of the long hood end from the bottom of the number boards up to the top of the hood. At some point after the shell pieces are spliced, I will have to make the exhaust ports and mount the bell in between them. After that, I dunno, perhaps move the fuel fills and modify the fuel tanks. But for now, this is where I'm at with the project...*

*







*

* A big mess, but it's starting to take on the look of an SD-9. *
*Stay tuned for more progress reports







*

*Rocky*


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Lookin' good! I prefer the look of high-nose diesels. (Which is about as close to saying I like diesels as I get.  ) 

Seriously, I'm enjoying watching the process. 

Later, 

K


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## Colin Stewart (Jan 28, 2008)

Very impressive,thanks for sharing


Colin


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

*Not a whole lot to report for progress other than the shell pieces have been cut, sanded, fitted, resanded and finally spliced together. It was alot of work for so little progress. Yet I even had to file a little bit of the flange that held the shell on to the frame off at the end of the long hood end by about 3/32nds of an inch.*










* I had also trimmed up the winterization hatch by cutting down it's lenght a bit and raising it up so the internal fan sits at the same height as the other fans. I had also placed one of the prime mover exhausts. The lead exhaust will have to be cut out of one of the un-used shell pices and placed into it's proper place just forward of the middle of the fuel tanks on the roof.*










* The existing forward exhaust port will have to be plugged or covered with a plate. *
*Also one of the next steps will be to "sink" the radiator fan section into the the top of the roof. Then I can start on the radiator flanges. Oh yeah, if you ask, I did set a bell on the roof that will be half the way in between the exhaust ports. The GN placed the bell there mounted in a bracket,* 










* Last picture shows the arear of where the radiator flanges will be placed. Sitting on the walkway is the grill section about where it will go. Now I know that some of you are wondering why I haven't changed out the doors with grill work yet. Don't worry, it'll be addressed later as well as the removal of a door on the other side of the loco and the section with the hand brake inserted*









*So, stay tuned. There's more fun yet to come







* 
*Rocky*


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

That looking Great rocky!









I like new GN logo "GREATREAT NORTHERN" hehehe!


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking good Rocky, that is really coming along. Nice to see the Cadillac being modeled. 

Chris


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Well it's back to work on the loco again tonight. No pictures yet, but I did stop at a hobby shop today and picked up some styrene bar stock. So tonight's plan of action is to draw out the roof to cut out where the fans will go. I must first remove any lift rings and cut and move the sand fill tube. THen I will measure out the fan package and trace it on the roof. Next will be cutting that section out and inserting some retaining bar stock to keep the fans from falling inside the long hood. This will also allow for the fan plates to sit flush with the top of the roof, well actually slightly above it. Then if I have time, I will trace out where I will cut the outer edges of the radiator area of the roof and trace out where I will cut each of the top ends to flare out the top of the back end of the long hood. If time, cut it also. Now that's a bunch of time to spend and I think this will continue into tomorrow nights time slot. Now remember, I do all of this by hand with Atlas HO track saws, razor blades or Xacto knifes, etc. I very rarely use a dremel tool because it's hard to control. I'll keep y'all updated







Rocky*


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky...your work is AGAIN fantastic. I love your building threads because they explain so much of the technique for bashing.

Here is your next project....


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Yeah Mikey, I gotta have one of those someday







*

*Ok, back to the project ... *

* So I have all the measurements all done on the fan and winter hatch assy. The tracing has been done on the top of the long hood shell and I removed the sand fill hatch _ But a new problem has arrived !!! Right under where the fan assy goes towards the rear of the long hood, or should I say right close to the end of the loco, I noted that the circuit board assy is screwed to the roof from the underside. This is also inside the area I have to remove to install the fan assy. There is about a 2-3mm gap between the pc board mounting plate and the roof -SO I will have to run a piece of styrene bar stock across there to remount the pc board mounting screws to. Not so hard after all, now let's see if I can make it happen







*

*Rocky*


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

mike, that a GN motorhome?


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

I think it must have a HUGE bathroom....and that's why there's so much without windows. That bus is at the Whitefish MT train depot....which is a BN museum area. Was there two weeks ago.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* It's a connecting route bus from Whitefish to Kalispell and beyond. 
Kinda like Slamtrak does, yet this bus has a baggage type of compartment to load express freight that came off of the Builder or Western Star. That's why there's the back area with no windows on the bus. Ok, I'm back to work on the loco now







Rocky *


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One cool bus. Maybe put hirail wheels on it.







Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Well I Worked until almost 2 AM doin the carving on the roof to get the fan assy to fit in and finally it dropped into place. *










* It was a real bugger to get it to line up with the opening I made. Perhaps when I cut the winter hatch off to raise it, ithe splice was not square and straight. But it did seem to line up flat on the roof line.*

*







*

*







*

* How the problem occured when I was getting the fan assy to sit flat and level on the roof. I am guessing that there was a slight twist to the assy, so I tacked it down for the time being with a few drops of CA adhesive. Then all seemed to appear to line up ok.*

*







*

*







*

* So for now it looks as it does. THere are some slight gaps that need filling along the fan assy edge. This could be filled with some thin styrene. I'd like to paint the fan before final placement. I do have some Testors "Mango orange" paint that is almost dead on for the USA GN omaha orange. SO tonights fun will be to work on the radiator blister, Oh boy this one will be fun







But all is coming along nicely AND I still have hair on my head too







I think that I will also get the lead exhaust port installed as well on my next session and perhaps the bell assy made as well. *

*AS always, stay tuned for our next feat of magic !!!







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Ok tonight I'm just playin' with the ideas on the radiator blister. *
*I also cut out an exhaust port from the discarded shell pieces and I also crafted the bell bracket with the bell.*

*







*

* I still need to cut the hole for the exhaust port and glue it in place. I will need to glue the bell and bell bracket in place as well. *
*But it's the radiator blister that is most challanging. I worked on an idea on one side to check for if it will fit or not.*

*







*

*







*

*







*

*The plan now is to carefully cut out the rounded side/roof edge and glue it along the top of the radiator grill. Next I would "fill" the gap where the rounded edge was with a 1/4 inch piece of square styrene bar stock. I had marked in pencil the cuts I will need to make.*

*







*

*







*

*







*

*So I do have a ways to go, but I am making progress. *

*Stay tuned *








*Rocky*


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky,
Here is a long hood end shot. That will be some tricky modeling.
http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/s...jewell.jpg

Also,this link has close up detail pictures.
http://espee.railfan.net/picindex/s...index.html


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul...first link is bad. You need to use the "chain link" tool on the big editor in MLS to add links that are long I've learned. I just wish the big editor would show me where the cursor is...cause when I run it under FireFox, I don't see the cursor.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Rocky! I've got to admit, although I'm a die-hard steam fan, SD9's have always been among my favorite diesels. I do have one small-ish nitpick though, looking at the photos in the link Paul posted, and other SD9 pics online, it looks like the radiator blisters aren't quite as prominent as you have them on the model. Of course, it could just be an optical illusion from the white styrene standing out against the orange, but here's a good comparison...


prototype photo vs. model photo


Looks great otherwise! I'm really looking forward to seeing this bash come together!


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Lets see if this works for the links.
http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/s...jewell.jpg 

http://espee.railfan.net/picindex/s...index.html


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Paul Burch on 20 Aug 2010 03:17 PM 
Lets see if this works for the links.
http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/s...jewell.jpg 

http://espee.railfan.net/picindex/s...index.html

I was having similar problems with the links in my post. Although I added the links using the link icon in the editing interface, and checked them in the HTML view, they weren't showing up as links in the final post. When I went back and changed the link text to words instead of URLs they finally showed up as links. No idea why. Let's try it with yours...

Southern Pacific SD9 image 

Page with more Southern Pacific SD9 photos


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Ok the guide prints helped. Most of the shots I have are straight on side views. These SP shots are at angles and close ups too. **I haven't started work tonight and may not get much done. But I will reduce the depth of the radiator flange by half before I cut the top edge of the roof. I think I will also use a piece of the discarded shell, prefferably a access door to make the small plate just forward of the radiator grillwork. Now for as the end of the hood goes, it will be intresting. Not just cutting the shell, but I will have to redo the number board assy inside the shell as well. But it's time now to get to work on it. Pictures later !!!

Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* A little more progress to report...*
*I have changed the temp radiator blister to something more like the prototype.*

*







*

*







*

*







*

*







*

* Now I know there's a small gap on the front of the blister. I can fill that up, no problem. *
*So the next challange after I do the other side will be to cut the top, side and bottom edges of the rear part of the blister. I will need to cut the plastic insert of the numberboards inside the shell. I figure once I get the two sides of the end of the hood cut, I can pry/bend them outwards. The top side on this mod will need a "wedge" of styrene to fill that gap. The bottom might be ok and just need gluing, I'll have to see once I get there. On the sides where the end of the modified flares will come out and the radiator blister ends, I'll have to fit in a piece of styrene to fill that gap. *

* So that's the next steps I'll be taking on the project. After that will be the piping around the fans. Shouldn't be too much a problem. It's the custom cutting, filing, etc. on the radiator blister that's taking sooo much time. Also soon will be time to cut out the last door of the long hood on the engineer's side to make the hand brake compartment that is open and place the hand brake assy. After that, I dunno yet. But there's still plenty to do







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Work in progress ...*
*Well the one part I thought would be hard to do actually isn't so bad after all. *
*I am presently working on flanging out the upper area of the end of the long hood where the radiator blister wraps around the back of the long hood. Here's a few pictures and I'll get back to work.








*




























* That's as far as I've got tonight. I hope to finish this side and do the other. *
*It's a very slow process cutting the shell with the modified dove tail trck saw, but it does the straightest cleanest cut. *
*Then it's just a matter of filling in the gaps with cut styrene and lately I've been coloring it with the orange Sharpie *
*marker until I get the proper color paint. It is very close, perhaps I could leave it and just weather it a bit







* 
*Well, that's all for now. Got to get back to work*









*Rocky*


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Rocky, 

Great project, looks like a labor of love.........And it looks goood to. You've cut a lot of plastic to make this model happen and I'm sure many hours contemplating same. What adhesive(s) are you sing to bond things together? I'm in the middle of a couple of projects and have found that USA-Aristo-Bachman-LGB all require different glues unto themselves and when joining styrene to OEM plastic and such. Just today I acquired a few additional solvents in the quest to find what works best on specific OEM plastics. 

Michael


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Task completed - at least for tonight... *
*A few more pictures of the progress. Yet I'll still need to change out the class lamp housings and add some more grab irons on the top of the hood. But here is how I faired on rounding out the radiator blister wrap around. Note, I may still need to clean a few things up yet *































































* Another thing I want to do soon, like tomorrow is remove the radiator fan assy and paint it, seeing it black just annoys me, even in the construction phase







*

*Oh yeah, to answer the question, I use CA adhesive and 2 part epoxy glues most of the time. Some times like on LGB, I have to use Pola cement or that UH stuff from Germany that comes with some LGB cars.*

*Stay tuned, there's alot more fun work ahead







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Progress update... 
Disaster strikes !!! Well, not as bad as it could be but I was trying to paint the fans and winter hatch and found I have a bad can of yellow paint. Hopefully it won't be too bad, weathing will help hide this. I also primed and painted the styrene patches over the area behind the cab. The match isn't perfect, but the spray was better off than the yellow was. Once again, weathering will help. So now I'm just waiting for the yellow to dry so I can mask it and do the orange on the fans. Perhaps late tonight I can remask and do the green on the winter hatch is. I hate painting, it's not my cup of tea. Well I'm back to watching the paint dry. 

Rocky *


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it DONE ,,YET??????


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty is yours done yet? It's done when he says it's done.







later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Nope, it ain't done yet*
*It takes LOTS of work to make something special. I just hope this inspires others to build their own SD-9. Which BTW, Has anyone else built one of these beasties, or am I the first one to try ??? Well I'm slowly puttin' away watchin' paint dry and waiting to do the green on the winter hatch. More pictures as soon as I can get it back together again. *

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Man if I had a dime for every minute I waited for paint to dry ....*
*On, the fan assy and winter hatch are painted AND still dryin' too - at least the green part







*
*There is still a long way to go on the loco, but it's starting to look better. Here's a few shots showing the painted fan assy.*










* Now the fan assy is just sitting on the shell not glued in and oh course I have to wait for - that's right, you guessed it, paint to dry.*
*I think I may also mask off the radiator area on top and the side where I had used the orange sharpie and hit it with a nice dusting of *
*Go Mango Testors orange to get it to match up better than the sharpie color did.*










* The lines seem to match up alright, but I wish it could have been accomplished a little quicker *


















* Wow, you can really tell the difference in the green color, I guess this is what weathering is for - to blend paint *


















* Last but not least, Looks like I need to get some more of the hand grabs in







*
*So that's it, my whole day after work to just mask, paint, mask, paint, etc. and don't forget, waiting for the paint to dry.*

*Stay tuned for more updates ...*

*Rocky*


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I just want Rocky to finish so he can send the shell up here so I can cast key parts from it. then he can make his next 6 much easier.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* A long awaited update... *
*You know what 6 hours of pains taking work looks like ??? *
*Well, here's what took me 6 hours tonight. Doesn't look like much, but give it a try and see. *
*What I di was make the cooling piping out of plastic piping from E-8s and from Pacific piping. Believe me, I had to redo some of it and make some pipes twice.*










*Now this part is made up of about 10 smaller pieces which are connected and reinforced by small brass wire splices. *
*I had to very carefully bore out each end of each pipe fitting and insert the brass rod, then CA it together. It's the boring out of **the pipe that'll get you in trouble. You got to use a pin vise and do it SLOWLY or you will end up poking a hole thru the pipe and then **have to start over with another piece.*

* Before I made the "end" piece that connects the 2 side assy.s together, I had to test fit it on the loco. *
*This made for some intresting moments... Getting them to balance on the roof was a pain to say the least.*



















* So after making the measurements and cutting the end pieces, I assembled them together (see top pictures) and fit them to the **two side pieces, then set it carefully on the roof of the long hood. This is where I am at now.*

*







*

*







*

* I know it may not look straight, but the cooling pipes are NOT mounted on the roof. I still have to mark the mounting studs *
*and drill the holes before I can test mount the assy. Of course before I glue it in place, I'll need to prime and paint the pieces. *
*This has been my nights work and I'm wiped out for the night. Tune in later tomorrow night or Monday for the next update.*

*Rocky*


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Excellent work Rocky!

You're builds may not appear as complicated as the "MasterClasses" (at least from this end of the keyboard) but the results rival anything I've seen elsewhere.


Major Kudos!


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Rocky, 

You're doing amazing work, and I read each post with interest. One question/comment, though.. Sometimes, it seems like ti would be easier to just make a part from scratch, rather than trying to tweak a piece of something else. The piping comes to mind, as it could have been made out of a single piece of brass or copper wire pretty quicky. Are you just trying to use up scrap box material, or perhaps avoid making anything new on this engine? 

Just curious, it's not a judgment in any way. Your modeling is great.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Thanks you guys








Now on the questions of building materials, I've tried bending brass wire in the past with little success. I can do it for running steam or sand lines on steam locos, but for this cooling pipe on the SD9, it is easier to recycle parts. Besides, short of molding parts (which I am not set up to do) I would not know how to make the stand offs for the cooling coils. This is a challange the way it is. My model will not be exact, but at a distance it WILL look like the real thing running on a layout. The next SD-9 I do will be right on with all details as exact as one can do. I'm trying to do this build without having to paint the whole model. I just had this wild hair to do this build, always wanted a SD-9 and I will make more. The first of a series is always a rough cut as they would say. I learn from my mistakes and correct them on the next in a series. I just got done painting the cooling pipes and will attach them later tonight. I have to get ready and run to the train show to see what I brought to sell at a friends booth has sold. 

For what it's worth, I like the model. Yes it could be more acurate, but I'm not one to count rivits. 
As far as I know, there are not any other SD-9 floatin' around out there. If so, I'd love to see pictures of them








Well, times a wasting and I got to run for now. But there should be so more updated photos posted later tonight









Rocky *


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Well, not much to add, but a couple things accomplished. *
*First off, I painted the cooling coils and mounted them on the roof. First shot doesn't look straight, but the next one gives *
*a better view and they don't look crooked as they do in the first shot. I also added the top lift rings. I'd like to find, but am *
*sure that I'll have to make tyhe ones that go on the side of the radiators myself, oh joy







PAr for the couse I guess. *
*And now some pictures *



























* Now the other thing I did was to craft the "breather" tube. This was an easy one to make. *
*I still need to paint it yet and then glue it down in place. Right now it's just sitting in the hole bored in the roof. *



















* So that's where it's at for the moment. *
*I'll try to craft some HEavy duty type of lift rings for the side of the radiator grills panels. May try a bit on the manual hand brake **lever that's recessed in the side of the long hood on the engineer's side. I've got the brake handle assy, I just need to carve on the **shell some more and make the recessed compartment. THen I think I'll start working on the ends of the walkways. *

*Stay tuned ...*

*Rocky*


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## Gary To (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi Rocky, 
SD9 is one of my dream car, I also have the same idea and already have one GP9 and looking for another in low price, your work is amazing special on the long hood radiator, enjoy to seeing your building log. 
Gary To


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hello Gary, thanks for the nice compliment







*
*You will also need a pair of Aristo SD-45 trucks to build the model and the fan assemblies from an E-8 to build the SD-9. GP-9 fans are too large to use. Now I used the cooling piping from two E-8s, but you could bend your own if you have the skill to do so. I was at the point of putting on the lift rings for the radiator grills and cutting the long hood for the manual hand brake just before we left for the weekend. I will be back to the model here sometime next week after we get back. You will want to save one of the hand brake assemblies from the GP-9s. I will also be addressing the position of the fuel fills and fuel gauge bubble on the fuel tank soon along with more pictures of how to do it. Then I can start on the front and back ends of the walkways with which Kadee to use, snowplow(s) coupler levers, etc. But for now, I am out of town on vacation and left the model back at the shop. *
*So watch mid next week for the next update !!! *

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Progress report, no pictures yet ...*
* I've started back to work on the loco this late evening. So far I've only put in the lift rings on the sides of the radiator blisters. I deceided to go with the plain SD-7 style rings for now until I can craft the proper style rings for an SD-9. Now I've also come to the reality that this is a practice loco and it won't be perfect or closse to it. I will learn from my assembly on this one and improve on the next SD-9. Anyway I look at it, I am having a good time making it. I really don't care if it is perfect, so go ahead, count the rivits, vents, panels and it won't bother me a bit. But I have one now and I ain't seen any others. So far all of the comments have been nice ones and I thank you all for that. I hope this build inspires others to improve on this project and it might even get the manufacturers to make the model someday (hint, hint - I'll buy aan arm load or two of them







) Getting back on track now, I am looking at the rear panel on the long hood to cut for the hand brake. This is a door that has venting. The best thing would be to replace it. So I am looking at a door on one of the left over pieces not used and am going to cut it off of the piece. Now I think I will be cutting the section that is recessed out for the brake lever first, then cut out the door. THe challange then will be carefully cutting out the door on the model and removing the hinges with being able to trim paint it. So before I start all of this, I will find a good shot of a GN SD-9 that shows this. THe SP pictures were a good guide, but I did note a few slight variations on the GN units. SO it's off to picture land and then to the cutting saw. Perhaps a good thing to do would be to replace the other door on the other side from the brake handle side with a panel with no vents with removing the hinges.*

*Stay tuned, more to come and pictures tomorrow or tomorrow night







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Progress marches forward, even if there's not alot of time to work on the model ... *
* One of the hardest parts of the SD-9 to do may be the manual brake lever. I spent a few hours on it for two nights in a row, but I think I may have a winner. Now I did this on a door panel and it should be on a solid plate that doesn't open, but what the heck, I really want to keep painting to a minimum. Here's what I got ...*










* Now what I did was on the first night I took the razor saw to the unused shell pieces and cut me out a door from the other side of the long hood that didn't have venting on it. Then I cut out the plate that would be recessed into the body. And tonight I filed and shimmed the opening and retro fitted the re-worked brake handle on to the piece I cut out. I did the painting and pin striped the handle housing before CA'ing it to the recessed plate. I trim painted the recessed area with paint and sharpie pen.*










* So next I will have to carefully cut out that last door and insert this one in it's place. *
*Slow but sure my cadlilac of the rails is slowly coming to life *









*More to come, stay tuned !!! *
*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Ok, here comes the next progress update







*
* Tonight I cut out the last door on the long hood, engineer's side and after filing, sanding and trim painting, I was able to insert the modified door panel that has the reccessed manual hand brake lever. Cutting was a pain to keep it tight and straight, but I finally got it done








Here are some of the progress pictures ...

First off, the long hood with the last door removed. 


















I thought about setting a generator like the one USA trains used on their flat cars, but being late I didn't want to spend the time to look for the ones I have. So next I have put some styrene shimming on the bottom of the removed door space to make up for area lost in the cutting of the door panel. Then I inserted the modified door into place.






























So there is the panel now in place. The loco is really starting to look like an SD-9. 









So what's next to do ??? Let's have it be a surprise








But I'll keep y'all up to date with more progress reports and how to do it. 

Stay tuned









Rocky

*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Alright, you guys aren't saying anything, so either your all taking' notes or I'm doing a fairly good bang up job







*
*I know I'm doing something right because the number of hits keeps going up and up and ... Ok the next item up to do is .... I said I'll surprise ya. *
*Got to check some parts out to remove something from it. I'll give you a clue, I'll be looking at the old pair of GP-9 trucks. What do you think I'll be making next for the SD-9 ??? *

*Hope to show y'all later tonight, but feel free to take a guess







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Ok, time to let the cat out of the bag. *
*What I did was cut off the outer bearing cover from 4 axle journels off of the GP-9 trucks. Then I had to cut pieces of a plastic rod to fill in the hole in the middle of each cover. Next I filled the thickness of them down so they will look like plate that cover holes in an SD-9 shell for lower classification lights (?) These are the ones located about halfway up the front and back ends of the hoods. They are the ones you see behind the ladders. Here's the parts ... *

*







*

* Please excuse the quality of the pictures. It's late and I was in a hurry







*
*Now here's a couple pictures of the plates mounted on the loco







*

*







*

*







*

* So there you go, Progress for the evening. *
*I think the next step will be to fix the fuel fills and put in the fuel level glasses and fuel cut off switch. *
*So 'til tomorrow, stay tuned and stay focused







*

*Rocky*


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky, I continued to be amazed by the pace at which your projects move along. Really enjoying the descriptions. Keep it coming. 
Robert


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking Great as Always Rocky 

Chris


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## Colin Stewart (Jan 28, 2008)

Hi Rocky

Its looking mighty impressive. What glue did you use for fixing the panel in place?

Thanks

Colin


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey Colin, *
*Since the panel is in a place that is not weight or load bearing, I just use CA adhesive to glue the panel in place. Now where two piece of shell or frame come together, I use 2 part epoxy glue to help support the weight of a major joint. *

* As far as the project goes, no progress was made lately







I've been spending time with Mrs. Rocky and visting with my mother in law who is down from North GA. I hope to get back to the loco soon, there is still much to do yet. The next step will take me to the fuel tanks, air tanks and moving of the fuel fill spouts and caps. So keep checking back for more updates and feel free to comment or question. * 
*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Project update ... *
*Sorry guys, I've been a bit under the weather lately with a back injury I had about a week ago and I haven't done much on the loco lately







*
*Tonight I have started back to work on it. Not much so far, but I have plugged holes or added lift rings on top of the loco where needed and I also fixed a broken off sun shade. So the top of the loco is about done other than a few paint touch ups and maybe an antenna to add. I have spent much time thinking on the lower frame and underframe details. Here are some of my thoughts, feel free to add any other ideas.*

*The fuel tanks : *

* I've looked at how I constructed the dual tank and think I should make some changes. First off, I think I should split it into two seperate tanks and add ends to the middle area and have a slight gap in between the tanks when mounted back on the loco. Also I think I should cut down the sides a bit making a top that can be seen from the side and run the fuel fill pipes up to the side sill of the walkway. They are black in color and should not be hard to do, just time consuming.*

*The air tanks : *

* This is a slight re-work where I will try to add a back side from cutting the second set of air tanks and glue them to the back side of the GP-9 air tanks. This will void the "hollow look they have when viewed from the back. There is alot of piping in the air tank area I will have to make when re-attaching them to the frame. Also I want to mount them with long screws from the bottom so you can see a "gap" between the air tanks and the first fuel tank. *

*The side sills : *

* I think the wisest way to do this to show storage doors on the one side and vented panels on the other side would be to use thinner styrene pieces as doors or such. The venting can be accomplished by cutting a slit with the xacto knife and benting outwards from the innerside of each plate with a custom made punch tool. the other side with the doors will have the latch areas removed and maybe a small bent piece of wire inserted as the latch handle.*

*The stairwells : *

*SD-9s have 4 steps where GP-9 had 3 steps. I will have to cut off the bottom steps of the extra frame pieces and attach them accordingly.*

*The ends of the frame : *

*The end plates on the frame are much different than the GP-9. I think I will have to custom make both end plates out of styrene and mount as needed. Allotment will have to be made for brake hose, air signal lines, etc. Perhaps even a steam line too ?? The MU connectors were on both sides of the loco end plate and will had to be affixed as needed. I must also point out that the uncoupler handle was different to as having a square half loop on each side of the loco facing upwards as well as the GP-9 style hand grab hanging down on each side along the front of the stairwell. On my loco I think I will mount a USA plow on it.*

*The couplers : *

*Not sure which Kadee I will use yet, but it will be body mounted. Perhaps a 835 or 789 might be the ticket to go with here.*

*Other details: *

*There are other small details to be added on the frame or ends such as the Emergency fuel cut off, fuel level bubble(s) on the fuel tanks, a small panel with plug in covers (?) on the firemans side and so on. I will attempt to do what I can. There is much detail on the SD-9s. I also noted that the control stands has a panel that have 3 guages that sit up high enough in the cab that you can see them from the ground looking up into the cab. This will be done when I put crew people in the cab towards the rnd of the project.*


* After all the shell work is done, there is the electronics to mount inside as well as a sound system. I may try something different and mount them vertically on styrene bar stock inside the loco instead of mounting them like the manufacturers do. Now I also have to mount inside the long hood two Aristo SD-45 smoke generators, a decent speaker amd I'd like to mount some sort of fans inside under the radiator fans so the radiator fans will spin - that'll look cool







*

* SO lots of ideas, no time crunch to do this in. The more I take my time, the better it will look







*
*The next SD-9 WILL have the proper drill work on the sides of the long hood because I will have to paint the whole loco And I'm starting to think about the third SD-9 being a phase 3(?) with dynamic brakes and just 2 48 inch radiator fans. This will eliminate the cooling pipes around the fans, they were a PAIN to do







*

*Well, that's it. Sorry no pictures this time, but there will be next time. *
*Stay tuned and keep checkin' in for more updates !!! *

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Ok, I have to check in for a slight progress report... *
*No pictures again, sorry







But I haven't had much quality time to work on the loco. However, I did pull my GN book with 1st Gen. diesels out of the library to do some checking and comparing of my loco (GN #575) to the ones in GN's fleet of SD-9s. The closest loco I could find in my book was #576 and I noted the 576 had small lift rings on the radiator blisters like the ones I used on my 575. This made me feel better not crafting those larger rings. I also saw that some GN SD-9s had 4 exhaust stacks on their roofs. They kinda look cool, but #576 did not have but 2 on it. Now all I have crafted on my loco lately was I cut another door off of the scrap GP-9 sheels to put on the last door next to the end of the long hood on the other side, fireman's side I think, from the side I installed the door with the manual brake handle on it or should I say in it. This will make the loco look more prototypical and the GN SD-9s DID have an access door in that spot that did not have the venting like the one that is there on the GP-9 shell. I will get pictures when I cut out the old door and put in the new door. Other than that, I'm cutting the other pieces of fuel tank ends off of the left over fuel tank pieces to re-do the fuel tanks. AND I have a great idea on how to make the battery box covers that go along the walkway side sills. I will post more on that when I get there.*

*Well, that's about it. Sorry I've had a slow down in production. *
*As usual, more to come. I'll keep y'all updated







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Progress report ... *
*Not much to report, but I have some pictures this time







*
*With family visting from out of town, back difficulties and work. I haven't done much. What I do have to show is the change out of the last door on the fireman's side of the long hood. I had removed the last door with venting, then replaced it with a door that is smooth and no venting. I will have to admit, I am not really happy with this door swap out







Somehow the new door is slightly crooked like at an angle and I will have to tweek it another night. I have not glued it in yet, but here's the pictures to show...*

*







*

*







*

* These are the door cut out and paint wrapped around the inner edges. *
*The next ones are of the new door in place. You will note the the pin stripes do not match up. Nor do the hinges.*

*







*

*







*

* I'll give it some more thought and will get the door in line before the next update.*

*Stay tuned







*

*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Project update ... *
* Sorry I'm behind schedule on this, but life has other things besides trains. *
*I've spent some time hunting down trying to locate 3/8 inch styrene strios no one seems to have them, but I did find a sheet of scored 3/8th" styrene for "metal roof" detailing. I can complete the scoring and get near perfect 3/8th inch strip from this. Then I can cut it into the width of panel to make the battery boxes as found on the walkway side sill of the SD-9. I have antother idea on how to make the latch detailing as well as the venting found on the SD-9 battery box doors. This will take some considerable amout of time to make the 20 some odd doors. But as soon as I get the first one completed, I will take a photo of it(or two or three) and post them here in the thread. After I get those done, painted and mounted, I can work my way down lower to complete the fuel tank, air tanks, etc. *

*Keep checkin' in







*
*Rocky*


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* My friends, 
Sorry for such a looong delay, but life always seems to take me in a diferent dirction these days. Now I have done a little work, no pictures at this time. But I had worked VERY hard at making the first on the battery box doors and I'm not real happy with it  The venting on the side of the door was not to straight and I want it to be as close to perfect as I can get it. I had used 1/16 inch styrene strips to do the vent work. Time consuming, but not a big problem. The problem was to get the strips glued with CA onto the door and using tweezers just didnot do it for me. I am trying to figure out a way of using the venting that is found on the Aristo/REA cabeese boxes located on the box that hangs down. Problem is I will need 15 such boxes to do the one side. Does anyone have some to sell ???

Rocky *


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Have you thought about copying the Aristo/REA caboose box venting in resin? A quick-and-dirty (and cheap) method of resin casting that works well for this type of small, low-relief part is to take one of those soft kneaded-rubber erasers from an art supply store (the gray ones that are almost the consistency of Silly Putty), work it so it's nice and soft, then press it over the original part to make an impression. Instant mold! Mix up some 5-minute epoxy and spread it into the cavity, let it set and you have a duplicate part. The mold is typically only good for one casting, but you can reshape and re-use the rubber over and over again.


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Well Rocky,
I've read through your log quite a few times and I'm just amazed at what you've accomplished. I also think that what you've published provides a great reference for anyone else wanting take on a major project such as yours.
Well done and thanks for sharing this with us.
Cheers.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

So Rocky where are we at on the loco. Have not seen a progress report in a while. You can run but you can't hide.







Later RJD


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* Hey RJ, *
* I've been sidetracked with work, Christmas, etc. I also got a bit burnt out on doing the battery access door along the walkways and came up with a different idea, yet I needed other parts to strip off the venting from. Those are the tool boxes that hang down on the Aristo/REA cabeese. I've picked up a few GN cabeese to get these off of, but will need more. I started making the pattern and some of the door and that's where I burnt out on. Cutting the styrene isn't a problem, but adding the thin styrene strips cut out of the Kadee shims was the issue. You cut those, then CA them on the ends of the battery door. THEN you drill a hole in each and square out that hole for the hand latch inside( thin brass wire ). So thats 2 of these per door times 13 or 14 door per side - that's alot of work !!! Now keep in mind that one side of the loco has 2 vents on each door. More work... Don't worry, I'll get back to it  Then I can finish off the 2-10-2 that sits behind it. Also in this time period I wanted something new that I can run on the outdoor layout. So I started and am about to finish an Aristo 2-4-0 from a 0-4-0 project. Then I also planned another small but more modern 10 wheeler project from another 0-4-0, but I still need to go out and buy that Bman 2-6-0 to shred up to get the drive out of. Both of these projects I will post soon too  I will post pictures of the battery compartment doors as soon as I get to making some more of them.*

*Hang in there guys. I WILL complete this loco AND I will build another too.*

*Rocky*


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