# mymodeltrain



## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

In the next project, I want to convert my USA trains NW2 model to a battery-powered locomotive. I notice there is a power socket in the back of the locomotive but I can't find any adaptor in my stocks including the LGB adaptor, that can fit in that socket. If anybody has the right adaptor for that type of socket please let me know where to buy them. Thanks


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

After reading about the NW-2, that socket is for powering lights. If you run battery power to it you might blow the circuit board. Not sure.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Trains, 
I tested today using the LGB power adaptor it seems fine for 14.8v battery but you are right it may be trouble for higher voltage if that socket is just for powering lights. I would do some more research before using that socket again.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

mymodeltrain said:


> Trains,
> I tested today using the LGB power adaptor it seems fine for 14.8v battery but you are right it may be trouble for higher voltage if that socket is just for powering lights. I would do some more research before using that socket again.



Just an update, Charles Ro Supply people told me that they have the specific plugs for the NW2 locomotives, I called them and ordered two, although they didn't tell me what the catalog number is or how it looks like.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

mymodeltrain said:


> Just an update, Charles Ro Supply people told me that they have the specific plugs for the NW2 locomotives, I called them and ordered two, although they didn't tell me what the catalog number is or how it looks like.


Just another update, but this one is terrible. After talking with Charles Ro people to order the plugs and gave them the credit card information. At the end of the day, I received another email from customer service asking me to clarify that if I need two plugs for NW2 locomotive or two motor blocks. I was surprised about that email and forwarded earlier emails which described the communications with their customer service that I need power plugs NOT motor blocks. And this morning, customer service sent me an email again saying that they can't process the order since they don't know if I need power plugs or motor blocks.
Out of shock about the lousy customer service, I requested them to cancel the order.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

MMT


Reading the manual:

http://www.usatrains.com/pdf/nw2manual.pdf

At the bottom of page for it says the plugs are for sound and lights only and not to connect the two units (cow and calf) for power as it could cause damage.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

As a suggestion, do not every email USAT for parts, call Mike in parts, only Mike.

Most of us have learned this in a similar hard way over the years.

Greg


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

chuck n said:


> MMT
> 
> 
> Reading the manual:
> ...


Chuck,
Thanks for the information. It seems that I need to open it up and rewire the connection for battery power. It takes time but it's a safe way to go. I will look for information how to rewire this locomotive-It seems I'll have a fun job for Christmas. I bought this locomotive nearly 2 years ago but it could not negotiate on sharp turns, and I shelved it since then. Now, I start to regain interest with this NW2 only after I expanded the railway a few weeks ago.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

MMT

Call RO and ask for service/repairs. When you get them, ask if a battery can be wired into the engine through the plug on the back? If the answer is yes, then ask for the part number for the cable. They have always very helpful to me.

Remember that if you are running a normally track powered engine with a battery, YOU NEED TO SEPATATE THE TRACK POWER PICKUPS. My first experience in DO IT YOURSELF battery power resulted in another engine on the track starting to move. I put a lawn mower battery in a car, and plugged it into an LGB engine through the two holes on the back of the engine. It worked, but so did the other engine.

If you want both track power and a battery option you will need a switch in the engine to toggle between the two, otherwise cut the wires to the track pickups.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The power socket for USA trains is identical to the LGB older engine sockets and these plugs are readily available. LGB standard colors were red and black for +/-, but many more colors are available.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Dan Pierce said:


> The power socket for USA trains is identical to the LGB older engine sockets and these plugs are readily available. LGB standard colors were red and black for +/-, but many more colors are available.


Thanks all the your advice. 
I do have the LGB socket plugs, they don't perfectly to the USA trains socket, but good enough to test. As a matter of fact I did test last weekend; the locomotive ran well with the 14.8v battery but I don't know what are the implications for long term. As Chuck and Greg suggested, I will call RO service for more information.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

MMT

I use those LGB plugs for a number of connections. The principle use is to provide power to my passing sidings. Instead of an on/off switch on each siding, I just plug or unplug the wire bridging a gap in the track. These have been outside for more than 15 years. Occasionally, the male plug gets loose. I just take out my pocket knife and insert the blade between individual prongs in the plug to spread them out a little bit. This slight tweaking of the gaps in the prongs tightens everything up.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Interesting, what would you plug into the loco that would look prototype?

I wonder what the real intent of that socket is, was there some lighted car that did not have track pickups?

Anyone ever see this used, or hear what the "factory's" intent was?

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg

Those plugs go back to the dark ages.

Many years ago I used to light my LGB passenger cars with the plugs on the back of their engines.

The plugs aren't prototypical, but at that time I wanted lighted cars, and at that time only a few cars had metal wheels.

LGB also had sound cars that were powered by those plugs. That is the way it was in the early 80s.

Chuck

By lighting the cars from the engine, or the green (baggage) brake van it minimized the drag of having wipers in all the cars and replacing the plastic wheels with metal ones. Most of my European cars still have the spoked plastic wheels.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Interesting, that might explain why USAT used an LGB connector.

Thanks for the info as always Chuck.

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg

Your welcome, all this discussion about DCC is Greek to me, but I hope I'll learn something.

Chuck

PS I started out in the BMW era (Before Metal Wheels). We had to adapt.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Chuck the idea of having multiple threads is to separate the topics and encourage people to ask questions, rather than pontificating on my personal trains and systems.

So please ask any questions you want, no matter what they are... 

Regards, Greg


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