# Kozo's Climax wheels?



## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi everyone,
I'm starting to build a Climax using Kozo's famous book, _Building the Climax_. I skipped ahead to the chapter about making the wheels in which he silver solders the spokes. I'm sure this works fine...but part of me says, there must be a better way. 


I'm building this engine in 1" scale (1:12), ie 4.75" gauge. 


I have three options so far:

Follow Kozo's plan, seek rough castings, or cut them with a CNC mill? 


I also have 3 materials:
Brass, steel, or stainless? Brass always worked well in gauge 1, but with the extra weight and harder rails I suppose it could wear quickly.


Thanks in advance for any ideas! 


Btw- Yes, this does mean that my F-scale NYC J3a Dreyfuss is being put on hold for awhile. I think 1:12 may win out over standard gauge F scale in the long run.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

If you make the wheel centers out of brass, you should probably make the tires out of either steel or stainless. There's a guy on chaski forums building a 1-1/2" scale Disney 4-4-0 who used a similar process and heat shrunk the tires on the wheel centers. 

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist...p;start=30

pages 3 & 4


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

One option you didn't mention is CNC milling from cast iron. Cast iron machines very easily and is available as bar stock. For a one off loco cnc machining might be a simple way to go if you have access to a cnc mill. Another option would be to make a simple wood pattern and have it cast in iron. 

Jack


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## daveb (Jan 2, 2008)

I built the wheels on the new shay using Kozo's method as outlined in the new shay book, which is different than his previous books(I think). The wheels came out great. I used steel for everything. The key was his method of mounting the Rim, hub, and spokes on a templet with the solder holes in place at the ends of each spoke. One heating with a medium propane torch and it was done. Kozos method of cutting and tapping the spokes took the most time but really produces a nice product. I don't know how his method scales up to 1". Mine are at 3/4"


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

You can do a modified Kozo method. Cut out rims, hubs and spokes. The rims are oversize for fianl machining later. Make a stepped jig to hold the wheelparts together.










Set up the mill with a rotary table or a homemade dividing attachment jig. Use a small milling cutter to take plunging cuts which will serve as "pockets" for the spokes.










Do the hubs to match

Put the rims, hubs and spokes in the jig and silver solder it all together. Make sure there is a generous step in the jig to clear the joints so you don't solder the wheel into the jig, The jig lasts forever.










Machine as you would a casting to final size. 

These are all brass. In 1" all steel would be the way to go. All the material would be easy to obtain stock size. Another option for the rims is thick walled DOM tube. You can get that by the inch from Speedy Metals and maybe Metal Express.


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow! Thanks for the great ideas guys! I still haven't picked out a method, but I know I will definitely be using steel or cast iron. 

I'm really liking Bob's method so far! It's true to Kozo's concept, but it seems more mechanically sound. CNC cast iron is in a solid second place...


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I want to try it on 7.5" gauge someday. Don't see why it would not work. I don't have CNC or access to one so this or regular Kozo or chain drill and file is all I can do.

Climax huh?? Are you cutting the gears too? 


Check out Speedy Metals, they have the thick wall tube. I have ordered from them, they are a good outfit.

http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, 
Thanks for the link, I've also heard good things about Speedy. 

And, YES, the Climax would be really great in 7.5in gauge. Kozo nicely explains the conversions and error, etc... From what I've read, the lion's share of work on this engine is performed on the lathe. You would need both a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck. 

For me, I'm pretty happy with 4.75in gauge for a couple reasons. 
1. With 1:12 scale, 1 inch is equal to 1 scale foot. If I want a load of 2ft diameter logs, all I need to do is find 2in diameter branches! I like that...haha 
2. 1:12 scale produces a 200lb locomotive, which is more than heavy enough for me to handle! Check out Heinz Hotz's 1:12 model if you've not seen it already. http://www.steam-model.ch/ Very nice! 

Ah yes, the skewed bevel gears... 
I'm really impressed by Kozo's technique, but I really just want to learn how to build a steam engine to start. Even Kozo himself used standard bevel gears on his first rendition. 
Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I won't be attempting them. Plus, I've heard rumors that Boston Gear may produce a skewed bevel gear and pinion.


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## steam Chaser (Jun 14, 2010)

I am new to this site, and currently building a narrow gauge Climax for 7 1/2 track using Kozo's book as a reference. I have a cnc mill and wrote a program to make them, 
they came out very nice, and consideringthey are very large dia. , they only took about an hour to face mill, drill starter holes, rough and finish mill them. 

now I need to turn the tread! here's what I got so far designed, will add pics of other parts if anyone's interested.



thanks,


Harry


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