# A Frick Load…



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

... of portable steam engine. 

Some of you may have seen my recent posting in these pages of my new 1:20.3-scale model of a Frick Portable Steam Engine from Hartford Products. 

When I ordered this model from Bob Hartford at ECLSTS last Spring, I realized I needed another flatcar, too, because I wanted to build it as a deck load. Two reasons: 1) the model has too many fragile parts to stand much direct handling; and 2) I don’t have a sawmill – portable or otherwise – or any other kind of belt-driven machine that needs a power source.


Fortunately, my friend Clem O’Jevich, of Warrior Run Loco Works, had a Bachmann Spectrum[/i] 1:20.3-scale flatcar in his store. Here it is:











As you may know, I never run anything “right out of the box” but there wasn’t much that needed to be done to this fine offering from B’mann. That said, I _did_ have to swap out their grotesque couplers for some from _Accucraft (AMS)_ mounted in _Kadee_ #835 draft gear. Also, the wheels were metal castings, a bit undersized, with very deep flanges and unrealistic-looking backs, so I replaced them with _Sierra Valley _26” wheels, which are lathe-turned and have a more prototypical profile with a proper fillet between flange and rim.









I painted the deck to look as if it _wasn’t_ painted and, of course, weathered the whole car to look somewhat used but well-maintained.









Here’s the Frick & Co. eight-horsepower “Eclipse” securely loaded onto the flatcar, along with its assorted leather drive belts lashed to the wagon tongue pole, and water reservoir barrels.









The steam engine itself is lashed down with chemically-blackened chains and chain binders from _Ozark Miniatures_.









Additionally, using strip wood, I built a simple frame to chock the wheels – the brakes, such as they are, are just not strong enough to hold the thing in place.


































Here’s a closer look at how the wheels are secured with chains, hooks, and binders.









The leather drive belts and barrels, being lighter, required only stout rope for lashing down.

Well, that's about it for now. Time to start working on my next project: a Jackson & Sharp RPO. (Don't be looking for pix of that any time soon - it's bound to be a lengthy process. Maybe I'll have it ready in time for ECLSTS next year.)


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Gorgeous Jack! What did you use for rope?


----------



## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

What a beautiful load Jack. Great stuff just like all your models.


----------



## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Very nice load Jack. Your weathering is amazing! 

Chris


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Great stuff. And great photos too! Looking forward to seeing it in person.


----------



## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely gorgeous, Jack.... What a great piece of work!!!!!!!


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Can I make a technical suggestion? 
The blocking is really pretty good. However, in real life chaining it by the spokes like that would result in busted wheels and an insurance claim for damaged freight. 

The front axle would have two chains (one before, and one behind the axle) coming up from the stake pocket, around the front axle at the pivot and back down to a stake pocket on the other side of the car. 
The rear would have a chain on each side, running sort of the way you have, but around the axle stub on the inside of the wheel 

All 4 chains are routed so as not to put ANY sideways pressure, rub or bruise upon the wooden spokes. 

They are still rigged this way by truckers today when moving them for antique machinery shows... at least those who don't want to damage them.


----------



## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Jack,

Rather than using chains would they have used ropes (and for new vehicles cloths (or burlap or sacking) as well ?) around the wheels to stop damage? The reasoning being that natural fiber ropes would not cut in as much, the small amount of pressure being further distributed by the cloths around the wheels before the ropes were used?











This is part of a 'pre1923' photo of a (British) Midland Railway wagon with a portable lashed down to the buffers (which your freight cars didn't have) but the stake pockets and the blocking could be used for the same purpose. 

Note the rope is wound round itself to finish it off, and use up the surplus rope. The rope is wrapped round the (iron) wheels at the other end.


Yours Peter.


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim - 

I used some waxed nylon twine (that happens to be the right color and diameter) which I had lying around. I think its original purpose is for heavy-duty leather stitching, using one of those hand-held stitching awls. 

Mik & Peter - 

You guys realize that you've just ruined my whole day, right? The worst thing about it is that you are both absolutely right! 

While I was rigging the chains this way, it did occur to me that it may cause damage to the wooden wheel hubs and/or spokes. I didn't stop to think if there might be a better (and more prototypical) way to do it. I guess I got fixated on maximum visual impact rather than technical correctness, using the method I did. 

Since everything is glued down pretty good, I guess I'll have to live with it as it is. I can only rationalize it by thinking that there may have been railroad men back then just as inept at securing loads as I am. 

Nevertheless, thank you (and everyone else) for your comments. That's the wonderful thing about this forum - it's always a learning experience.


----------



## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Hi Jack-

I love your flat and tractor load. Looks beautiful. I hope to see it in person some day either at a local open house or at York.
It was a pleasure talking with you last weekend at the Strong's open house.

Best regards

Jerry


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't feel too bad, Jack. If I hadn't helped the trucker load and unload engines for our club for the last 25 years or so, I wouldn't know this arcane crap either


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, Mik. I guess that makes me feel better - sorta. I think...


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Just slap a "packed by ooPS" label on it and call it good.  Seriously, that makes for a great-looking load. What colors are you using on your deck and barrels? I'm working on a freight platform right now, and want more of a "new wood" look like you've got rather than my normal weathered look. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin,

I went to _Michael's_ (the craft store) and picked up a pile of their acrylic hobby paints for about three bucks each. Since then, I've been experimenting with them and what you see here is the result.

This is how I did the flatcar deck (also the barrels, for that matter) - I first overpainted the factory-finish tuscan red deck with a _Floquil Polly-S_ "Medium Gray" base coat and let that dry thoroughly. Then, using the hobby paints from _Micheal's_ I mixed a medium tan and applied that as a first coat, then washed that with a thin coat of a slightly darker brown. Finally, after everything is completely dry, I use an eyedropper to apply another wash of diluted Woodland Scenics black dye after a spritz of "wet" water.

What I do next is the kicker that ties everything together: I take a sanding sponge block, with extra-fine grit (available from_ Home Depot_) and VERY LIGHTLY sand the deck so that the lighter tan paint is exposed here 'n' there through the darker brown overcoating on the cast-in wood grain. If necessary, I go back over and dry brush a light tan anywhere that needs it - looking for areas where the sanding went too deep and to add some variation to individual boards. Once I've got everything the way I want, as the final step, I apply a couple of coats of matte-finish lacquer (from a rattle can - _Testor's DullCote_, is good for this) to seal and waterproof the paint and dye.

The best part of this technique is that you can always "take a mulligan" if you don't like how your first attempt turned out. It can always be washed off as long as you haven't applied the matte-finish lacquer.

Sorry, Kevin, I guess I'm the kind of guy that tells you how to build a clock when all you asked was what time is it. The short answer to your question is simple acrylic "tan" and "golden brown" hobby paints, and mixtures thereof.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

No worries. I'm going to have to try the sandpaper trick. Never thought of doing that on paint to wear through the various layers, but it makes infinite sense. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Ever since Mik, Peter and others (correctly) pointed out the error of my ways securing my Frick Engine flatcar load with chains, I've tried to rationalize by thinking that there may well have been railroad men back then as inept at securing loads as me. However, that just didn't cut it. I've always believed that anything worth doing is worth doing right. I didn't want to go back and rip it all out, but, in the end, I sucked it up and did just that.

Now, I'm glad that I did. Here's the result:



























As you can see, the chains on the rear wheels now pass through the spokes (without touching them) and are draped over "hard points" on the axles.









Similarly, the front wheels are now secured by chains looped around the central pivot of the axel shaft - another "hard point." 











As I've said in the past - one of the great things about this forum is the opportunity to learn from others (particularly, their mistakes) and in that way we all benefit. Your "constructive criticism" is much appreciated, believe me. 

Thanks, guys, for making me do it right.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

absolutely fabulous... 

So I won't make you nuts with a photo of a prototypical handbrake  

(Don't mind me, I'm just lealous because I can't afford that kit)


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, first off, Mik, I take full responsibility for that "Rube Goldberg" brake system - it's purely a product of my imagination. No such prototype that I know of. My only excuse is that I think it would work. 

In order to put enough torque on the shaft for the brake shoe to hold, you need some leverage. I couldn't think of any other way to install a lever or foot petal that wouldn't require piercing the boiler or firebox with rivets or bolts. If you've got a another idea or, better yet, a picture of how it's been done before - I'd love to see it.


----------



## Old Iron (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, 
I am glad you took the "constructive criticism" to heart. Your beautiful model is now perfect! In person the model is even better.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Big65Dude on 15 Oct 2012 03:49 PM If you've got ..... a picture of how it's been done before - I'd love to see it. 
Ask and ye shall receive... see that long diagonal lever with the chain attached? that's it


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Mik -

What a great engraving! I wish I had found it when I was doing my research for the model project. Where did it come from?

Besides that, what a wonderful idea for working the brake mechanism! It has definitely given me some ideas - the first is to get rid of that silly-looking weight under the boiler.

Y'all keep an eye on these pages. I think I may have something to show you within the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned.

BTW, thanks again, Mik, it seems that I couldn't have done this without you.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, it's from a mid-1880's catalog... i found it online someplace (just another one of those things from my "someday" files)

Here's a couple more just for giggles. the first is about the same vintage as the one I posted earlier Note the hand pump... How's that for a funky attachment?









This is a later one, about the same era as your model. If you look close you can see the brake lever sticking up on the far side


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

When I started to build one of Bob Hartford's fabulous "Portable Frick Engine" models, I noticed that there was no provision for a brake system. This is understandable because most Fricks, in fact, had no brakes at all and were probably just held in place with chocks during operation. Nevertheless, I decided to add a rudimentary "Rube Goldberg" brake system, “powered” by a 25-pound weight. It was purely a product of my own imagination, based on no particular prototype. (See this earlier postings in these pages - Jack's Frick.) My only excuse is that I think it would have worked. 
I knew that in order to put enough torque on the shaft for the brake shoe to hold, you needed some leverage. I couldn't think of any other way to install a lever or foot petal that wouldn't require piercing the boiler or firebox with rivets or bolts. Then, my friend Mik came to the rescue. On the bottom of the preceding page, you will see a beautiful engraving - originally used by the Frick Company for advertising, back in the day - that he uploaded, clearly showing how it was done. That's all I needed.









Here's what I came up with, based on Mik's engraving. 









It is beautiful in its simplicity and, as before, I'm sure it would work. 









The chain on the handle end is slipped over a peg on the frame, keeping tension on the lever and locking the brake.

Once again, I offer my thanks to Mik for providing me with the inspiration. As I said before, I couldn't have done it without him.


----------



## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

And so yet another wonderful model is born. Awesome work. I actually thought that was a manufactured product, not a home brew kit. (meant as a compliment)


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, the basic model is a kit from Hartford Products. So, besides Mik, of course, I must give a lot of credit to Bob Hartford as well. I really couldn't have started, much less finished, it without _him_.


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, I find it hard to believe this is a model, and not the real deal. But if it is a model, WOW!


----------



## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hey jack, can I make one observation, hopefully without insulting you? 

I noticed in the one picture that the unit appears to dip towards the front. It appears to be that the rear wheels are mounted a tad too low, raising the firebox end of the engine. As any steam guy will tell you, no one would do such a thing because the boiler water would flow towards the front, potentially uncovering the crown sheet. 

I'm not trying to detract from teh finished product, it really is spectacular.


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, I noticed that, too. It's really much more apparent in the photo than it is in real life. 

Mounting the wheels was about the last thing I did in the construction process, well after both sets of axels were installed - by that time it was too late to do anything about it. 

That's just the way the kit was designed. Maybe I should have put the bigger wheels in front, but that seems counterintuitive, and besides. like I said, it's really not so noticeable "in person." 

Thanks for your input, it's another learning experience that make this forum so useful and worthwhile. Believe me, no offense taken. )


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

We'll get poor old Jack all sorted out yet... and by then the thing will be much too nice to actually run, and he'll have himself a really purty, hysterically correct, dust catcher


----------



## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

What I've noticed after looking at Jack's work numerous times (this series I've looked at many times, I can't get enough of it) is that he's not only a fantastic modeler but also an exceptional photographer. If he didn't take such excellent photos we would never realize just how great his model work is. I stare at this pictures for long periods thinking, "if he didn't get the lighting just right or the focus right on, we couldn't tell how good this was."
Bob


----------



## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Bob, 
You are right, I too appreciate actually being able to see it myself and the photo's are great! I wish I had his skill set when it comes to modeling. About the only thing I seem to be able to do is build bridges!


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

We should feel very fortunate that there are such great modellers in our midst, our hobby, on MLS, who can inspire us all to try harder. 
A great piece of modelling, and photography, indeed. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Rich, but you do built a mean bridge, and trestle, and that barn you're building looks great. You should post pictures, but not on this thread. You don't want to hijack it and while your stuff is good, you probably don't want to have people compare it to what we've seen here.
Bob


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I just have to say, That is Fricking awesome....  I couldn't resist.


----------



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, everybody, for all the nice comments. 

In fact, thanks a Frick Load...

* 
:*o)


----------

