# OK, how do you route and handle power to your section blocks and track in general



## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

All-

How are others doing this? 

In my indoor railways, I just wired each section up underneath the benchwork, with a small control panel and an ON-OFF or ON-OFF-ON switch depending on the needs on the section or if there were two cabs in use. All multi cab routing in the panel feeding to the track, no backfeed from there. 

Now, in the outdoor world, I have just run jumpleads from the section (all sidings, the main loop is a single block for now) that I alligator clip to an adjacent non-isolated bit as a stop gap (no pun intended) method.

.....so....

Is it best to come up with some sort of "removable" control for the bock, or maybe build some small containment for the section block switchgear? As of now, a single cab for the completed section, so the swtich will take its feed from adjacent live track. If multi cab running on the main (it is NOT that big) is ever taken, the wiring will need to be changed. A second cab and complete isolation will be used on the extension that is currently under construction.

Also, the main power supply and TE are housed in a plastic toolbox for convenience. Got the idea from Axel Tillman actually. BUT, I am employing the same temporary measure (alligator clips) to connect up to the main. 

.....so....

What would be a suitable outdoor socket for up to "five amps" could be used as the supply is removed when running is completed.

And finally-

With the use of rail calmps and a few "jump leads" in the areas where no rail clamps are sued (this will be fixed by spring) I am noticing no voltage drop that impacts oepration. I think this will be a good method for the small mainline I have without addtional leads from the supply to another part of the railway. 
Thanks for any input.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The panel, the three Train Engineers, the power packs, etc., on the T&LBRR are all housed on a small rolling steno table that can be wheeled into the garage. We wheel it out, plug in two 24-pin connectors, an extension cord to the wall outlet and we are ready to power up.

The control panel has 1/4" phono jack inputs for three "cabs." We use three transformers and three Train Engineers that are plugged into these phono jacks. 

From the phono jack, each cab runs to a dpdt center-off switch. Each switch is wired in a "cross pattern" so any TE can be overridden at the panel by either reversing its polarity, or shutting it off.

From there each cab runs to an internal reversing unit so we can have the trains do point-to-point without the need for a separate reverser(s).

From there each cab runs to a bi-color LED. This allows us to instantly determine if a cab is live, and what direction (i.e., polarity) that train is headed. This is a very nice feature where different cabs may be running in different directions and you don't really want them crossing blocks when the polarities are opposite (_especially nice when doing operations_). Also, the intensity of the LEDs gives us a rough idea of the voltage. There is also a digital voltmeter that reads the actual voltage of any of the three cabs with the flip of a SP3T switch.

From there each cab feeds a single "buss bar." We run a "common rail" so all three cabs also share a common buss bar that is also shared with our turnouts, automation, and lighting.

There are 21 blocks and each block is accessed by a SP3T (single pole three throw) toggle switch allowing each block to be accessed by any of the three cabs. Each SP3T switch has a 16-gauge single-strand wire to each of the three buss bars as input with a fouth wire, the output, going to a terminal strip. Some blocks are designated for stopping/storing trains and these blocks have a separate toggle switch that can be 1) pushed up (where it latches) to make the block live, 2) physically held down to run the trains through at a reduced speed, or 3) placed in the center off position to kill the block without taking away from the cab operator's ability to use other blocks. Several of the blocks where trains automatically start/stop include such things as back-to-back diodes, high wattage resistors, and in-rush current limiters to reduce speeds and make it easier on the longevity of the motors

From the terminal strips, the blocks feed out of the control panel through two 24-pin Cannon connectors. Two 25-foot "umbilical cords" then connect the panel with the railroad at a weatherproof box.

In addition to the three cabs, there is a 16.5 volt a/c line that comes into the panel. A different style plug is used so it cannot ever be confused with a cab input. The a/c is rectified and reduced to power the reversing units. Additionally, it is subject to two diodes to produce plus and minus half wave a/c to power the 21 turnouts. Relatively small capacitors span the diodes bringing the turnout voltage up to ~22 volts dc, but quickly drain down in the event that a turnout is held toggled so as not to burnout the turnout motors.

The half wave plus and minus lines also run to buss bars that feed the momentary spdt turn-out toggles located on the control panel. The output from each turnout toggle runs to a terminal strip that also runs to the Cannon connectors/umbilical/railroad.

Additionally, there is a "diode matrix" to control multiple turnouts simultaneously. This matrix allows us to throw multiple turnouts (as many as 20 at once) to set various patterns and return the turnouts to default positions.

Different colored toggle switch covers make it easy to differentiate the types of toggle switches (i.e., block, turn-out, kill, control) at a glance. Pretty simple stuff really.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah, 1/4" jax, good idea. I think I may employ that method. Gotta work out a way to keep the schmutz out of them when not operating tho. 

Sounds more like you are going dad's route, but then he is building full CTC boards now! His multi cab system is similar to yours too, going back to his layouts of the 1960s. All great for his mainline US std gauge network, but a bit of overkill for a 1930s NG line in the Sudetenland.


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

"...1/4" jax, good idea. I think I may employ that method. Gotta work out a way to keep the schmutz out of them when not operating.."

ya would think there would be some sort of rubberized insertable cap available on the market by now ! Or even maybe use a (dummy) male to insert into the female jax when not in use Paint the free end as red tip, so you can quickly visually confirm 'sealed' till next op' time !?



doug c


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, was thinking something along those lines. Now, what to house the few switches in, luckally we have very few sidings/isolated blocks in my tiny railway.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

A piece of wood is cut on a diagonol to form two wedges. A piece of wood is cut for the back. Masonite sheet is used for the face and bottom. Rubber feet hold it up. "L" molding is used to cover the ends/corners.

Paint the face white. Lay out your track pattern with 1/8" drafting tape. Spray the color of choice and let dry. You can tape again to have assorted colors to mark out different parts of the board. Lift the tape for a track/line pattern. Drill the holes for the toggles, etc. Use rub on transfers/Dymo/etc. to add any wording.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

A word of warning using 1/4" phone jacks. As you plug/unplug them, you create a short circuit.

Be sure that your power is off before plugging/unplugging. Additionally, my power supplies leave the capacitors charged when you shut them off and even shorting these once the power is off will pop the fuse. I use dpdt switches for my power supplies so that when they are switched off, the "other side of the switch" connects a resistor to the capacitors to discharge them to ground over a few seconds period.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 17 Jan 2010 03:44 PM 
A piece of wood is cut on a diagonol to form two wedges. A piece of wood is cut for the back. Masonite sheet is used for the face and bottom. Rubber feet hold it up. "L" molding is used to cover the ends/corners.

Paint the face white. Lay out your track pattern with 1/8" drafting tape. Spray the color of choice and let dry. You can tape again to have assorted colors to mark out different parts of the board. Lift the tape for a track/line pattern. Drill the holes for the toggles, etc. Use rub on transfers/Dymo/etc. to add any wording. 


THanks, have made panels this way for years or using metal sheet and "pintriping" or chartpak tape for the indoor layouts. They do turn out really nice! 

Posted By toddalin on 17 Jan 2010 03:54 PM 
A word of warning using 1/4" phone jacks. As you plug/unplug them, you create a short circuit.

Be sure that your power is off before plugging/unplugging. Additionally, my power supplies leave the capacitors charged when you shut them off and even shorting these once the power is off will pop the fuse. I use dpdt switches for my power supplies so that when they are switched off, the "other side of the switch" connects a resistor to the capacitors to discharge them to ground over a few seconds period.


Thanks, we have some stuff at work that shorted out and fried a charger because the charger and battery pack uses this style of jack and it was not fully pushed in. But, for my siding blocks, it will be only one switched conductor, so while continuety is a possiblity, shorting is not.

....cannot say the same for the "supply to main" if one plug was used for this reason.


Now....I guess I should clarify the last part of my first post....

What is a good "maximum length" of 332 brass track per supply lead, assuming rail clamps are employed?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Spule 4 on 17 Jan 2010 08:18 PM



What is a good "maximum length" of 332 brass track per supply lead, assuming rail clamps are employed?




I used soldered 16 gauge "bond wire" as jumpers. They are more reliable at a small fraction of the cost. Personally, I think it is ridiculous to pay as much/more for connectors as track to save a little work on what is a hobby anyway. They are also less conspicuous. With jumpers, I image a couple hundred feet would be easy to accomplish with little loss. Remember that track is *BIG* wire. I use 14 gauge low voltage direct burial cable (malibu cable) soldered directly to the track as feeders.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

All good stuff Todd, thanks. I thought about the solder option, but my thoughts were ease of use and costs being cheaper in the long run on my small railway for not just purchase but maintence. Time will tell on that. 

The wire does loo, good, but so does the granite ballast and the "mind your own business" growing in the forground. 

All good elements of a garden railroad I suppose.


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## AppleYankee (Jan 3, 2008)

Quick and easy to install and remove, I do this on my indoor layout. A couple of spade lugs and 16 gauge wire. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to crimp the ends of the luge over the rail base.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Good idea for even a temporary lay-out. I am using similar jumpers between my clamp and (currently) un clamped track. I used a small crimp loop end lug and ran the clamp bolt through the loop.


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## lkydvl (Jan 2, 2008)

BATTERY/RC....


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By lkydvl on 18 Jan 2010 07:24 AM 
BATTERY/RC.... Nah. That second rail also serves as the common ground for all the turnouts, accessories, lighting, etc., and I would do all that even if I ran batteries. This common rail needs to have really good conductivity.


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

If you use the 1/4" phone jacks, I suggest that you short the plug and hook the in & out wires to the jack. That way, when you plug in the jack, it makes a complete circuit without worrying about shorts.


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

Posted By Spule 4 on 17 Jan 2010 08:18 PM 

What is a good "maximum length" of 332 brass track per supply lead, assuming rail clamps are employed?



I always dig out this chart whenever that question comes up.
Code 332 rail conductivity vs different gauges of copper wire:


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I did this:










Power is carried around the layout with pieces of ourdoor extension cord. The ground was the common, Black cab A, White cab B.

Now I don't bother. Batteries are the only way to go









But it won't show...


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Nuts to batteries, I deal with enough battery powered junk at work that needs new multi hundred dollar intrinsically safe batteries every couple years to come home and spend hobby time doing the same. 

Thanks for all the other tips. Once the weather clears and I recover, back to work....


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