# Linking Train Engineer throttle and base HELP!



## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

I've read the instructions for linking the TE remote and the base and attempted to follow them several times. It asks me to press and hold the code signal button until the signal light comes on. That's not a problem. Next it asks me to press and hold any of the A-E buttons on the throttle until the signal light flashes. Well I press and hold one of these buttons but the signal light never flashes, it simply goes out after about 3 seconds. I've double checked everything, have fresh batteries in the throttle, everything seems to work fine except for this final step to link the throttle and receiver. Of course trains won't move because this step isn't working right. Has anyone else had experience with this or know what may be wrong? Please help, I'm really frustrated.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A suggestion for the future: it might be better to put this in the RC/Battery operations forum... 

Also, there are several versions of the TE that use the "linking" procedure, from old to the very latest TE.... if you describe things in more detail it helps a lot.

I'm going to assume that you have the 27 MHz TE trackside system, from the "clues" in your post. 

My experience with linking these is sometimes you have the transmitter too close to the receiver. Try collapsing the antenna and holding it about 4 feet away. Sometimes I have even had to remove the antenna. 

If that fails, then you don't really know which is broken, so see if you can borrow another transmitter or receiver to narrow down the problem. 

Regards, Greg


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I somehow remember having to press something twice when programming my TE, cannot remember if it was the TX or RX, and all my TEs are packed up now during some home renovation.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

That's usually what you do...


A couple things can keep it from linking.


1. Interferance. This is in the 27MHz band and there are lots of 27MHz things. Try one of the other 9 frequencies.


2. Transmitter not working. Try changing the batteries. The LED's will still blink and behave normally when the batter is way to low to run the transmitter circuit. Also check that the transmitter antenna doesn't rattle around loosely.


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

A little more info. This is the 10 amp CRE-5547. It is hooked to a 24v 12a power supply. I double checked that polarity is correct, power light stays lit and fuse is not blown. I'm going to try collapsing the antenna and getting further away.

One thing I wondered is... if my voltage pot on the power supply is adjusted down, the base may be receiving less than 16v which wouldn't allow the base to work properly. I have adjusted the voltage pot UP however I don't have anything to measure the output with.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Greg is correct in that if the transmitter and receiver are too close (


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

One more possibility. The base is brand new in the box, it's likely working properly. The throttle I bought seperately, used. When I bought it, it did not have an antenna with it. I swapped in an antenna from another TE throttle, one designed for smaller scales and comes packaged with an onboard receiver. It was a gray throttle and not the black one that I have. Is it possible that the antenna from the other throttle is incompatible with this system?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Possible, but not likely, because you can use an extending whip. Most everything is 27 MHz except for the 75 MHz onboard system. 

Try it without the antenna and hold it close to the receiver. 

Regards, Greg


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

I removed the antenna and held the transmitter next to the receiver and the signal light flashed! Also, after this, every time I hit the speed button the signal light would flash accordingly as if it were receiving a signal... then, once I hooked the track power wire back up, it stopped behaving this way and the train doesn't move. I tried re-synching and now I can't get it to duplicate this.

SO FRUSTRATING.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Manco on 18 Aug 2009 03:52 PM 
I removed the antenna and held the transmitter next to the receiver and the signal light flashed! Also, after this, every time I hit the speed button the signal light would flash accordingly as if it were receiving a signal... then, once I hooked the track power wire back up, it stopped behaving this way and the train doesn't move. I tried re-synching and now I can't get it to duplicate this.

SO FRUSTRATING. 


You should be able to do it with the antenna on just so you hold it a few feet away.

Sound like you had it going, then...


Maybe a short on the track? Recheck the fuse.

Obviously if you can't even measure the voltage, you don't have a test meter. How about disconnecting the receiver from the track and applying its output power directly to the engine's pick-up shoes/wheels (while lying on its back obviously) and trying it that way? It would take one/many variable(s) out of the equation.


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Well if the receiver were behaving correctly during the linking sequence and then the trains didn't move, I would begin that elimination process. But since the receiver and transmitter won't even link, it doesn't seem necessary to start trouble shooting past that point. Right now I have the receiver unhooked from the track wire and everything in the house while I'm trouble shooting. Once the signal light flashed that one time and it seemed like it was finally linked, I took it outside and hooked it back up to the track and then the signal light stopped responding to input from the transmitter and I didn't get a chance to put a loco on the track and start testing actual operation. I've since tried about 30 times to re-link using every possible combination of circumstances to no avail. I'm beginning to think my transmitter simply isn't communicating with the receiver.


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## RioShay (Feb 26, 2009)

Hey Manco, i've tried the enclosed instructions and its a hit or miss operation, BUT, i found these instructions and they've worked everytime; after turning both units on 1) press code button (on RX) for 2seconds, till lite comes "on" 2) immediately press "C" button (on TX) and hold till RX lite begins to blink 3) release "C" for a moment, THEN PRESS AGAIN. let me know how that works


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

If you hold the remote too close while linking, the receiver can sometimes pick up the signal on an adjacent frequency and not work farther away.


If the green light blinks when you push a transmitter button, it's linked and you need to look elsewhere. An easy test is a tail-light, or similar auto light bulb. It should be able to light one of these. Unhook the wires to the track and put the bulb there. Does it work? Cool. Hook the wires back up. Unhook the other end of the wires. Can you light the bulb with the wire? Cool. Work your way through the whole circuit and you'll likely find something that wasn't connected well.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Manco stated above " It was a gray throttle and not the black one that I have. Is it possible that the antenna from the other throttle is incompatible with this system?" 


The grey unit is 75 mhz and the black is 27mhz as is the 10 amp unit. 

The grey transmitter unit will only work with the 75 mhz on board receiver!!!!!!!!! 

So, everything is working(not working) as it should. 


PS, there is a 27mhz orange unit called BASIC TE and is not compatible with the black 27mhz units.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great call Dan! I missed the gray! 

Greg


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Just so there's no confusion. I am using the proper transmitter for this receiver. It is the antenna ONLY that I took from a gray onboard receiver type transmitter and screwed onto my transmitter. So you're saying that an antenna from a gray throttle, being of different frequency, will NOT send the proper signal when screwed into the correct transmitter??? Is there any way I can hard wire the transmitter to the receiver temporarily just to test if this is indeed the problem?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Manco on 19 Aug 2009 11:20 AM 
Just so there's no confusion. I am using the proper transmitter for this receiver. It is the antenna ONLY that I took from a gray onboard receiver type transmitter and screwed onto my transmitter. So you're saying that an antenna from a gray throttle, being of different frequency, will NOT send the proper signal when screwed into the correct transmitter??? Is there any way I can hard wire the transmitter to the receiver temporarily just to test if this is indeed the problem? 

I replaced the "rubber ducky" antennae on my TEs for simple telescopic collapasable antenna and this improved their function (range). While it is certainy possible that the antenna is causing a problem, I _doubt_ that this would keep you from making the link, though it may affect the range.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The "rubber duck" is not a great antenna, and it could make some difference, but you should be able to overcome this with moving the transmitter closer or futher. 

NEVER connect the output of a transmitter to the input of a receiver directly! Many systems will suffer irreparable damage. (In this case, the TE is pretty tough) 

For example if you climbed a cell tower and wired your cell phone to a transmitting antenna, nasty stuff would definitely happen! 

Get the 2 units aligned so the receiver blinks as before, and if it does not link, then try other hardware. 

Regards, Greg


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Ok update. Maybe this will help narrow down the problem. I went and turned it back on and tried, just as I have 100s of times before, and like it did ONCE yesterday, the code light flashed as the instructions say it should and both units appeared linked! When I'd press a button on the transmitter the code light would respond on the receiver just as it should. I took it out, hooked it up, and the train began to move. The train didn't seem to respond to input from the speed buttons and I noticed that the code light would no longer flash on the receiver when I pushed buttons. Then, the train stopped and the receiver would not longer act as if the transmitter was linked to it. I couldn't get the train to move again and I couldn't re-link the two anymore. So the two were linked momentarily but then it seemed to be lost.


It seems as if there is something around my house interfering with the signal. Would interference cause it to lose it's link? It's like the link lasts for only a time and even then it's very weak and then it's gone. Would my wireless router be causing problems or something?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think you are wasting your time. 

The signal is at 27 MHz... lots of things can interfere, but they should not de-link the system, i.e. require re-linking... once you have linked. You can turn the system off, ship it around the world, and turn it on and it is linked. 

Could you have interference, yes... all kinds of things can generate interference at 27 MegaHertz... but not your wireless at 2.4 GigaHertz... approximately 100 times higher in frequency. 

If you think it's interference... get a 18v battery and take the system out into an open field and try it... if you link and then the blinking quits after a while, you know it's not interference. 

By the way, what power supply are you using for the receiver? make, model, voltage, etc... in case there is something weird you have neglected to tell us.... 

Regards, Greg


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Greg, you lost me on your last post. What does 2.4 gigahertz have to do with the issue here. Aren't we talking about the 27 MHz system?? Or did I get lost along the way (which is a definite possibility)

Ed


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

You could also have a temperature related problem. Maybe after one or the other unit (TX or RX) heats up it quits. Try a spray with a can of compressed air like is sold to blow dust off of your computer to see if the chill of a component or circuit card cures the problem temporarily.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Greg was inferring that the 2.4 gigahertz router would have no effect on 27 MHz the Train Engineer.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

How very odd.


Yes, somebody's other gadget could be interfering with you. You've tried some of the other 9 frequencies?


For example, an RCS remote can block all 10 channels of one frequency while he's holding buttons down.


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Greg, power supply is a "Potrans" FS320241M 24v 12.5amp. I bought it based off a recommendation here. It's worked very well when hardwired to my track... just didn't have a way to control speed. http://www.interinar.com/fs-32024-1m.html


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Really sounding like something wrong with either receiver or transmitter. 

Can you borrow one of either to help isolate what is wrong? 

Regards, Greg


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Manco on 19 Aug 2009 04:38 PM 
I went and turned it back on and tried, just as I have 100s of times before, and like it did ONCE yesterday, the code light flashed as the instructions say it should and both units appeared linked! When I'd press a button on the transmitter the code light would respond on the receiver just as it should. I took it out, hooked it up, and the train began to move. The train didn't seem to respond to input from the speed buttons and I noticed that the code light would no longer flash on the receiver when I pushed buttons. Then, the train stopped and the receiver would not longer act as if the transmitter was linked to it. I couldn't get the train to move again and I couldn't re-link the two anymore.

Greg, power supply is a "Potrans" FS320241M 24v 12.5amp. I bought it based off a recommendation here. It's worked very well when hardwired to my track... just didn't have a way to control speed. http://www.interinar.com/fs-32024-1m.html 


One thing to try.....another power supply.

I was given one of these by my father he bought it as he is a retired EE, loves building his own throttles and power supplies, and cannot pass up any type of power supply.

Anyhow, attaching mine to a TE, it worked well until there was a slight surge or short (ie, wheel hitting a flange in a point) and then nothing, no train movement, no speed control, no nothing....even the added fan on the TE RX spun at a LOW speed. Unplugging the unit for a few seconds would return everything to normal....until the next surge or short..... Same drill.

I posted the problem here:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

....with no others having the problem, so maybe it is worth a shot?


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmm, Garrett might be onto something.

When I last had track power, I had 2 electronics grade power supplies. In an accident, they'd go into "Overcurrent" at 6 amps and shut down. After such an incident, the TE's wouldn't come back on till I'd turn the power supplies off and back on, though the power supplies would power back up once the short was removed. I never bothered to explain it.












(In the background is a little 5A power supply in a tupperware tub.)


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

I was beggining to suspect the power supply may be the problem as well. I hooked it to an ART-5450 which is a 16v 5amp supply. As before, I could get the two to link momentarily. I sat there for about a minute pushing different buttons on the transmitter and the receiver would show that it was receiving the signal. after about 45 seconds however, it's as if the signal gets weaker and weaker as the code light gets more inconsistent until finally, about 15 seconds later.... no code light anymore not matter what I push.

I'm telling ya, once in a while it will link, but the link is somehow lost. Once the link is lost I can no longer link the two again. If I wait a few minutes and come back and try... it'll link again only for the link to be lost in about a minutes time. 


This makes it seem as if it's either a battery related problem or a heat related problem. Batteries in transmitter are brand new so I don't think it's that. If it's heat related, it would explain why things function ok for a minute or so but then something fails. Maybe I need to blow a fan down in the receiver. 


Greg, I'm getting in contact with a local club right now and trying to find a member who has a functioning TE so I can mix 'n match components to see which one is defective.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Make sure that the battery terminals in the transmitter are clean and you may want to bend them a little for a firmer contact. Also maybe try another set of new batteries, as you don't seem to have a meter to ensure the ones you have are really fresh.

It sounds as if the transmitter is "running out of power" and losing contact that way. This however, should not necessitate a relink. Do the lights on the transmitter continue to flash normally after you've lost the link? This would _infer_ (but not gaurantee) that the transmitter continues to function as it did prior to loosing the link.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Manco, where are you located?


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## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Toddalin, that would be a good idea to try just in case. However, yes, the transmitter *appears* to continue to function correctly after the link is "lost". When I press a button, a light at the top remains lit and when the button is released it resumes flashing. I did notice that the last 5 channels/frequencies are red rather than green. I don't know if that's normal or not.


Spule, I'm located in Mid-Missouri, about an hour east of Kansas City.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I was hoping you were an hour or so around here, I have a few TEs we could play with......but no shirt, no shoes, no dice....


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