# Mason Bogie PDF's



## bearswood (Jan 2, 2008)

Does anybody have access to Mason Bogie pdf's? I do have all the text but my back-up hard drive decided it wanted to go on vacation and stayed there. Looking forward to completing this locomtive.

George from northern Indiana

and finally retired from teaching. Hip, Hip, Hurray!!!!!


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

George,
Mike Reilley has posted some here: http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx
-If that is any use?

I found this also: http://www.bernat.net/~andy/files/f...mation.pdf

I have some PDFs saved for valve gear and chassis, if that is what you need.


Alec.


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## bearswood (Jan 2, 2008)

Alec,

Thanks for the info but I have them but I guess I need the templates that were in PDF downloads off the articles. It is hard to move forward when you do not have the templates.

George from northern Indiana


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

George

Which MasterClass drawings are you looking for.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Steve, 
Can the PDF's be put back so we all can use them like they where befor the master class's where removed?? Would be nice if Shad put the material back up. 

Thanks, Chuck


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck

That's the plan, but since Shad had to take the old MLS forum software (i.e. Snitz) off-line permanently, and the old MasterClass articles were developed and integrated into that software over a rather lengthy period of time. The change over isn't something that is a simple matter of flipping a switch and it's done, the transition is going to take a lot of work and time to accomplish.







Additionally, toward the end of the Mason Bogie - 2002 MasterClass, for a multitude of circumstances things became disjointed.

However, in the meantime if there's something that anyone needs all they need do is ask and I'm sure among the MLS members we'll be able to supply what's needed.


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## bearswood (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve,
I am talking about the PDF links that were embedded in the articles to various templates: for example, 



*Download the PDF Templates for this Chapter.*
*Masterclass Options 1 to 6 2-6-6Ts (All Masterclassers to use this set)*
*DSP&P Heavy 2-6-6T (special drawings for larger 2-6-6T, with 45" straight boiler)*
*DSP&P Big 2-8-6T

*
This was on page 18 of chap 3 part l. 

I hope this clarifies my needs. 


George from northern Indiana


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

George

I've uploaded my copies of the various Mason Bogie - MasterClass drawing files to the location pointed to by the following link, take a look and see if you find what you need, if not let me know and I'll see if I can find it.









MasterClass 2002 - Drawing Files[/b]


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Thanks Steve, that filled in a few gaps in my files. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Neil:
Glad that it helped out.

George:
I went back and checked the hyperlinks in the text side of it and the file names pointed to by the links you specified are as follows, and you should find those files in the MC2002_Chap03_Drawings folder/directory pointed to by the link in my previous posted reply. Take note that each of those files are compressed files and contain multiple files within.

MasterClass Options 1-6 = Compressed File mc2-03-all.zip
ch3-PDF-1.pdf ch3-PDF-13.pdf ch3-PDF-25.pdf ch3-PDF-37.pdf
ch3-PDF-2.pdf ch3-PDF-14.pdf ch3-PDF-26.pdf ch3-PDF-38.pdf
ch3-PDF-3.pdf ch3-PDF-15.pdf ch3-PDF-27.pdf ch3-PDF-39.pdf
ch3-PDF-4.pdf ch3-PDF-16.pdf ch3-PDF-28.pdf ch3-PDF-40.pdf
ch3-PDF-5.pdf ch3-PDF-17.pdf ch3-PDF-29.pdf ch3-PDF-41.pdf
ch3-PDF-6.pdf ch3-PDF-18.pdf ch3-PDF-30.pdf ch3-PDF-42.pdf
ch3-PDF-7.pdf ch3-PDF-19.pdf ch3-PDF-31.pdf ch3-PDF-43.pdf
ch3-PDF-8.pdf ch3-PDF-20.pdf ch3-PDF-32.pdf
ch3-PDF-9.pdf ch3-PDF-21.pdf ch3-PDF-33.pdf
ch3-PDF-10.pdf ch3-PDF-22.pdf ch3-PDF-34.pdf
ch3-PDF-11.pdf ch3-PDF-23.pdf ch3-PDF-35.pdf
ch3-PDF-12.pdf ch3-PDF-24.pdf ch3-PDF-36.pdf

DSP&P 2-6-6T Heavy = Compressed File mc2-03-heavy.zip
CH3-2-8-6H-1.pdf
CH3-2-8-6H-2.pdf
CH3-2-8-6H-3.pdf
CH3-2-8-6H-4.pdf
CH3-2-8-6H-5.pdf
CH3-2-8-6H-6.pdf


DSP&P 2-8-6T = Compressed File mc2-03-big286.zip

CH3-BIG-2-8-6-1.pdf
CH3-BIG-2-8-6-2.pdf
CH3-BIG-2-8-6-3.pdf


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## bearswood (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve,

Thanks that is just what I needed. Now I will sort what I am missing. I downloaded everything yesterday. Thanks again.

George from northern Indiana


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## bearswood (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve,


The file that I am unable to locate consists of the following PDF from the DIY files. I have highlighted the area that I need. I hope there are more than five PDF's in the group because that is all I have for them.
_ This is on the 3rd page of the DIY chassis
_

Basically, you bang he thing together like this: Cut the two side frames made from 2mm thick styrene.Apply an outer 1mm layer showing bar frame detail to the outside of the 2mm thick base layer - this iscompletely optional, as once the wheels are in place, the close spacing of the wheels makes the details on theframe impossible to see!Cut the three 2mm thick spacers and apply them to the inside of the side frames. Phil Jensen has done a demo of this chassis. *Where my PDFs show 2mm spacers with 4.6mm SHS in thecorners to screw into*, Phil chose to cut the spacers using 4mm styrene, and screwing straight into the ends ofthe spacers. Excellent method!Basically, apply the spacers to one side first, bolt the side frame to the spacers as well as glue the spacers. Install the axles and gearbox, as well as the wiper assemblies. Then apply the second frame side, poking theaxles through the bearing holes, etc. Screw the second frame side to the spacers, but don't glue this time.Next, apply the wheels onto the chassis and screw them onto the axles. Test the unit to see that it runs well.Now to make the side rods. Hartland have designed these end patches to slide onto the side rods. you'll need alength of K&S brass strip, 6.27mm X 1.6mm (1/4" x 1/16"). *Cut the brass side rods per the PDF. BE EXACT ON THE PLACEMENT OF THE CRANK PIN HOLES.* The more perfect the holes are located,the smoother the loco will run. Slip the Hartland plastic bearing patches onto the side rod, no glue needed. Use the crank pins to bolt the rods to the lead and middle axle. The rear axle will need a longer crank pin,made from 3.8mm brass tube and a bolt that slides inside the tube. Here is a view of the brass K&S rod andthe plastic rod end patches: 
George from northern Indiana


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

George

I didn't build the DIY styrene chassis that used the HLW motor & gear box, I used the BBT chassis, so my knowledge is limited in this area.

However, in the link that I provided in my above reply there is a directory/folder named MC2002_Chap06_Drawings.
Within that directory is another directory/folder named Chapter-6-preZIP.
Within that directory there is a compressed file named Chapter 6.zip
Within the compressed file there is a directory/folder named Chapter 6 upload
Among the contents of this directory/folder are the following that relate to the DIY styrene chassis
[*] MC2002-DIYChassis.pdf - this is the text document describing how to build the chassis, and contains the text that you quoted in your reply.
[*] Do It Yourself Chassis.pdf - this is a drawing file with a creation date of 4/29/2006 4:14 PM, which I believe is an updated file meant to replace the file DIY-1.pdf dated 1/6/2006 11:13 AM found in the compressed file named DIY-PDFs.zip.
[*] DIY-PDFs.zip - a compressed file containing five (5) PDF files (DIY-1.pdf, DIY-2pdf, DIY-3.pdf, DIY-4.pdf, & DIY-5.pdf).
[/list] 

Where my PDFs show 2mm spacers with 4.6mm SHS in the corners to screw into[/b] When Fletch refers to "SHS" (Square Hollow Section) what he's talking about is Plastruct item #ST-6 Tubing Gray ABS, Square; 3/16” (.188”, 4.8mm); 15” in length. If you look at drawing file DIY-1.pdf (or its replacement Do It Yourself Chassis.pdf), at the second image from the top on the right. Just below balloon #1 on the right, you'll see two squares that have a small circle in their center, that is the representation of the SHS that Fletch uses on the drawings.

If you look at the pictures in the chassis text document I'm fairly certain that they are all of the demo chassis that Phil Jensen built, where he used 4mm thick styrene for the chassis side frame spacers/spreaders instead of the 2mm thickness that Fletch used. And as far as I can tell Fletch only depicted the 2mm thick spacers in the drawings.

I'm sure when Fletch runs across this topic he'll speak up regarding anything I got wrong, or maybe Peter Bunce may chime in since he's currently in the process of building a DSP&P 2-8-6T and I believe he built a styrene chassis, but I don't know if it's exactly the same as the MasterClass DIY one. 

Cut the brass side rods per the PDF. BE EXACT ON THE PLACEMENT OF THE CRANK PIN HOLES.[/b] As to the brass side rods, I don't think that Fletch included them in the drawings. And the dimensions for drilling the holes in the side rods will be dependent on just where you drill the holes for the axles in the side frames & the distance between the center of the axle hole in the drivers and the crank pin center. Which I think would vary from chassis to chassis and be custom to each.

Hope the above is of some help to you.
Steve


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