# More Airwire Questions.



## krogerssolar (Jan 8, 2009)

Hi all Ive been Reading the G2 Manuals and the T5000 one to get a better idea on Trying Airewire Ive got four Alco units two A units and Two B units and a UP SD45 that i want to try Airewire and P8 sound one these locos. 

If i read the Manual right Mainly for my SD45 i was reading that both Motor Blocks and all lighting be connected to the G2 or G3 board directly and not use the Factory Boards what are your thoughts on this i don't have an issue with my Alco units I've installed PNP card's for four of my other Alco units with the Revolution Receiver. but I've never removed or undone any of a SD45 or my Dash 9's Factory Wiring Mainly i only have used the Revolution Receivers in them.

And the last Question reading up on the lash up side of things if i read it right there can only be four locos in a lash up is this true or can more be added. Also what about smoke controls i didn't see anything listed for that is that a controllable feature or are only Lights and Sound controllable.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They most likely recommend directly to the motors to avoid wiring issues. I take it your alco units are Aristo alcos and and probably FA-1 and FB-1, as opposed to the Aristo Alco RS-3 and the USAT PA PB Alcos.. 

Based on being a correct assumption, how are you going to connect into the factory boards? All you have is sockets unless your FA's are really old. 

I'd take their advice and unplug the motors and buy connectors to plug directly to the motors and then run to the G2/G3. 

I don't know the max number of locos in an Airwire consist. Paul will know. 

Smoke controls? You will want to hook a relay to an output of the G2 / G3 most likely. 

Greg


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## krogerssolar (Jan 8, 2009)

Thanks for the Reply Greg i forgot about the RS3 being a Alco Engine i have the older Aristo FA and FB units i plan to Rewire the FA and FB units just have never removed any of the wiring in a SD45 i have always kept them Factory with the Revo Drop in.


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

It's better to bypass the factory boards. As far as smoke, they G2 has 2 accessory switches in it. For MU'ing the TX can mu 4 separate addresses. If you have an a&b unit that run together give them the same address. Better yet, if they are always together save yourself some money and lash them together with one G2 card. 
Terry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What he said, if they always run together, fewer addresses used... 

(just yanking your chain on the Alcos, although your first post seems to imply ones with PNP sockets, and the last one says they are the older non PNP style, either way do what Terry said) 

Greg


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## krogerssolar (Jan 8, 2009)

Thanks Guys ill give those options a try.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Morning Drogersolar, 

I didn't see Greg or others address the number of locos that Airwire will handle in the consist. You are correct, that number is four. It idea being that each can be called up, their speed adjusted so you don't have one pushing or pulling the others...but should all be working together. My one complaint is that there is so much time on the "one-page" instruction sheet (Airwire T5000) for consist setup and not a lot of time spent on the other things that a G2/G3 can or should beable to do when used with the G2 receiver. I'm pleased thus far with the controller and the receiver, just think that more time could have been spent on actually wiring it up, trouble shooting and "how to" portion of the documentation. Ed


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Ed,
It is my understanding that there will be a full manual out shortly for the T5000. Hopefully the G3 by the end of the year. Al from Airwire was at Marty's doing testing on a G3 he had installed in a USA S4. The new features in the G3 will be worth the wait. I'm holding off on some USA F3 installs until they are released. Full 10A output ( not based on wattage),dedicated ditch light output plus four programable light outputs, 17 frequencies that will will changeable from the transmitter. No more frequency selector on the decoder.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Thanks Paul for the info....I saw the video posted of Marty's annual train round-up. Impressive....lotta track to keep in shape. I know several individuals who can't wait for the G3 to come out in December...hopefully before Christmas (hint, hint...in case the wife is reading this). I am sure that there are gonna be some great upgrades (reminds me of those standing in line for the Iphone 5 release). I would be very happy to see a better booklet for Airwire. I must admit that I haven't seen the one for Revolution, but if they use the same writer, they need to improve it....maybe a booket, "RC/Battery wiring for Dummies"!!!!!? Ha. Ed


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Paul, would you second Terry's recommendation to bypass the Aristo boards and wire directly to the motors? 

Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
My preference is to wire directly to the motors. In fact I take out all the old boards and wiring and just start over. It is actualy easier and makes for a cleaner install.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well that makes 3 of us... always like to hear how you did it Paul. 

Greg


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## krogerssolar (Jan 8, 2009)

Great Info Guys Thanks. With the Info from Paul ill wait for the G3 to come out and do my first Airewire installs along with my First SD45 gutting whats the best way to power the Led's from a Airewire board keeping some of the Factory Led's in the Sd45 if i remember the cab and Forward and Reverse lights where incandescent bulbs which ill convert to led and the running/step light where led's can resisters be used or should a voltage regulator be used on the light outputs.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd use dropping resistors, simpler wiring, and voltage regulators aren't that efficient either. 

Greg


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## Lake Valley #1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Hi all; I'm in the 'same boat'...what I'd like to know is how to keep the firebox 'flicker' circuit (board) if I gut the K to use the G3 board. I can figure out the lights and chuff, and maybe the smoke also. The G3 states it is capable of 3 amps for smoke; if I decide to keep smoke, I'll probably go with a fan 'chuffer' hooked up to a self installed reed switch or the optical rig that comes stock with the K. Since I'm not concerned with copious amounts of smoke, I've been kicking around the idea of using the on board motor cooling fan as my smoker fan, reversed to blow out the stack instead of down on the motor. Any ideas that might be better will certainly be entertained. Thanks, Jeff


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

better to get a smoke unit with an integral fan, rather trying to pressurize the inside of the boiler. 

Greg


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff, 
Hot air from the motor naturally rises so it should be sucked up for dissipation rather than trying to blow it down. Bachmann got that one wrong as blowing it down de-pressurises the body shell and draws the smoke from the smoke unit down into the body shell. So, IMHO it is worth going to the trouble of turning the fan over to suck the hot air up. The welcome by product of doing so is that increases the air flow up past the smoke unit which in turn increases the amount of smoke coming from the stack. 
If you do decide to turn the fan over be careful replacing the screws. Two of them will be too long and need shortening.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Is the flicker board a stand alone? Any idea what the current draw and voltage might be? You could use one of the G3's ELITE outputs to drive it as long as it doesn't exceed one amp. There are four programable light outputs on the G3, assignable to any function key for on/off.


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## Lake Valley #1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Thanks for the quick and knowledgeable come backs! 
Greg: my thought about the boiler fan being turned over and hooked up to the chuff system so it would 'chuff' the smoke out the stack would 'kill two birds with one stone' so to speak...just a rambling thought on my part to save a bit of cash; might not be worth a darn, but I'd like to try it. 

Tony: yes, I had seen that somewhere on here before (don't remember where, though), but didn't know if the second edition K still had the 'upside down' fan. Thanks for the heads up! I just figured to leave the fan right where it is, turn it over and hook it up to the chuff circuit (maybe with an amp to help drive it?) to sync the smoke with the chuffs. May not work, but I'm gonna try it. LOL 

Paul: I don't know what all the flicker board has on it, I haven't stripped the boiler from the loco yet; I'm still getting information on the job before I start, but from the looks of the schematics and the breakdown of the parts sheet, it appears to be simply a flicker system with the mounted LEDs and nothing else, the drawings aren't very detailed. I should think that the voltage supplied to the board wouldn't be more than 5v with a fairly low current draw. Without holding it in my 'hot little hand', it's hard to tell. I haven't seen any specs on the different boards used in this loco. 

Thanks again, all the info I'm collecting so far seem to indicate that gutting the engine is the best route to travel (dangit!) even though Kevin S. said that in retrospect, gutting wasn't necessary like he did in his K. However, I'm not sure which control system he used in his K; if he used the Airwire G3 (which I doubt due to timing) then I'd be tempted to not gut it.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'm 99% certain all of the wires coming in from the locomotive have corresponding solder pads on the stock board, so all you'd really need to do is pull the "dummy plug," then solder wires to each of the pertinent pads on the socket board to attach to the G3. You will probably have to jumper the power coming from the rails/battery to the B+ and Ground pads, since the dummy plug does that. That will provide power to the lights, etc. Then just hook everything up normal. Note: If you're using track power, you MUST put a bridge rectifier between the track inputs and the B+ and ground tabs. 

Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So does that imply that the "dummy plug" has a full wave bridge on it? 

Seem to remember so. 

Greg


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## Lake Valley #1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Greg; yes it appears to have a full wave bridge rectifier on it...4 diodes hooked up surface technology in the proper directions.


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