# Warehouses?



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Any one got any ideas how to make the roll up doors for warehouses. I am going to make a industrial section with bunch of warehouses. All Door Ideas are Welcomed.

I would like a roll up but am open to ideas.

I have about 8 of these cable ways. 

I also thinking of puttting a loading dock between the rolling stock and the building

Plan on making a industrial park. With sidings.

JJ


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

JJ

Here's a link to Yogi's web site and how he made his roll-up door.

The Bellaire Depot - Roll-up Door[/b]


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

John, 

I used Sodder's aluminum corrugated sheets for the non-operating doors on the warehouse. They are 1" x 4" and I placed 5 of them across for each door and framed and trimmed them out. That gave me doors 4" wide by approx. 5" tall. The roll up tube part is normally placed inside the building so neither it nor the pull chain needs to be modeled unless you are doing interiors. 

The photo doesn't show the corrugations very well but they look pretty good in person. Just another way of doing it.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

John
I know you like to work with steel and plan on doing more later. I made a Freight Transfer house for a friend and the doors came out very good. They do not open. But i drew them up in sketchup to show how i built them. I hope this helps.
Dennis 
















































Dennis


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Oh wow when the pictures got shrunk the words are a little small, If anybody needs them bigger please let me know. 
Dennis


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## chaingun (Jan 4, 2008)

Hey JJ
Here is a wearhouse we did. The rollups are just a crimped soda can in a frame.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks for the ideas guys 

The doors do not have to be openable 

All suggestions wiill be concidered I have several boxes like this so all ideas may be used.


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## Ralph Berg (Jun 2, 2009)

Posted By SteveC on 06 Feb 2010 09:45 AM 
JJ

Here's a link to Yogi's web site and how he made his roll-up door.

The Bellaire Depot - Roll-up Door[/b]





Thank you for the link. Yogi's web-site has a lot of helpful information.
Ralph


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## sheepdog (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine are not roll up but they could be done the same way. Very similar technique to Dennis. First I laid it out in Sketch-up.










I used clear Acrylic and Styrene. After thinking about I changed the design a bit, glued the styrene on (leaving the paper for windows on) painted it and removed the paper on one side.











I used another piece of Acrylic and cut out the door openings and painted it with sand spray paint.











I wanted some open docks on the truck side and someone here suggested building a box within the box to keep them weather tight.











Craig


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Use the corrugated beer cans.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't give JJ to many ideas. 
He won't be able to choose one.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Better find your "Tesla."


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Bear Cans and Pop Cans are aluminum? 

Do you Paint them to look rusty or weathered? 

What Paint?


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## Ron Senek (Jan 2, 2008)

John I use Rust-oleum Painters touch sandable primer for the rust color. I have also used Krylon rattle cans too.


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## Big John (Jan 4, 2008)

I usually run a propane torch over the can surface before I corregate them. I find it removes any coatings or oils on the surface and the heat from the torch softens up the aluminum so it crimps easier. Paint also sticks better to the heat treated surface. Just be careful when you apply the flame to the surface. Keep it moving and look for a slight discoloration. If you get the metal too hot it just warps and melts. Ugly. 

Big John


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Rust is a 3 step process. Primer, Iron Metallic Coating, and Activator. http://www.modernoptions.com/
This product is available at Micheal's or other craft/art supply stores.
The paint actually has iron filings in the paint. I tried it without the activator and it did not rust on its own.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

The reason aluminum does that is aluminum has almost no plastic state. Aluminum has only a VERY NARROW temperature range between hot solid and liquid. Another option for annealing the aluminum is heating it in a gas barbque grill on HIGH with the lid closed. Don't exceed about 450 -500 degrees. 

Bob C.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Chaingun,

A few years back I did one similar to you but with less crimping for the door


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

What tool are you guys using to corregate aluminum cans?


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave

Many use the Fiskars 6.5" paper crimper, others have made their own. Check out Yogi Wallace's "Bellaire Depot"[/b] web site.


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Steve


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, I went out and bought a Friskars paper crimper at Joann Fabrics today (on sale for $11.99) and some real cheapie aluminum oven pans at the Dollar Store. The pans are lousy for the kitchen use because they're so thin, but because of that they're perfect for our use. After cutting off the sides and smoothing the manufactured creases and indentations out using a piece of wood, I put a piece through the crimper. Viola, it worked perfectly!!!!! 
I'm now cranking out (no pun intented!!) corrugated aluminum like its my job. Now I just have to come up with building idea for my layout to use all this siding on. 
Thanks for the tips guys, back to cranking!! 
Dave


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave

Don't over look all those soft drink/beer can aluminum that gets thrown away, although you do have to cut the top & bottom off, split, and then anneal the aluminum in your Bar-B-Q or oven before crimping.







A bit more work true, but look at all the free raw material.


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Yea Steve, beer cans would be free and a lot more fun getting ready (glug,glug). But these goofy baking pans are so pliable I don't even have to heat them. Heck they're working out at $.50 each and I'm getting all sorts of material from them. In fact I even stopped rubbing out the original manufactured creasing and just run the stuff through the crimper. The pieces come out just fine. I've also found that running the piece throught the crimper again with the curl facing up takes just about all the curl out of the piece. 
Dave


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## Lawrence Wallace (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 
Before you run off a lot of metal check out setting up the crimper to run consistent sheets at. 

http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/crimp/crimp.html


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep Yogi, I read through the site before I went out and bought it- great info. I'm finding that the cheap oven pan material is so soft that I'm having no problems at all with it. It also goes through so easily that I'm having no problems keeping it straight in crimper using one hand to hold the tool and one to feed. I may set it in a vice and I may add a knob to the crank. Like I noted above, I'm even not having to rub out the creases beforehand. This tool is great. I just have to make sure I don't end up with a whole corrugated shanty town!! 
Dave


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Dave Ottney on 25 Feb 2010 05:48 AM 
Yep Yogi, I read through the site before I went out and bought it- great info. I'm finding that the cheap oven pan material is so soft that I'm having no problems at all with it. It also goes through so easily that I'm having no problems keeping it straight in crimper using one hand to hold the tool and one to feed. I may set it in a vice and I may add a knob to the crank. Like I noted above, I'm even not having to rub out the creases beforehand. This tool is great. I just have to make sure I don't end up with a whole corrugated shanty town!! 
Dave What is wrong with a corrugated Shanty Town?....Just about every town has "The wrong side of the tracks"


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