# Regner Max is here!



## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

I found a package from Ken at the Train Dept. on my doorstep today. Part of his Max engine order has arrived - about half of them. It has now run three times. First run was pretty rough sounding, by three it was getting quieter. I do have issues with parts of the instructions.
1. The integral steam oil reservoir will hold maybe 3-4 drops - not any 2ml. 


2. By the third run, the light was fading, which made it obvious that the flames sometimes extend about an inch outside the boiler openings - usually at the long slot, sometimes at the two back holes. This means that grabbing the pan handle is not a good idea during the run. The blue paint is starting to blister around the top of the pan slot. The flames sometimes reach very close to the wooden bunker sides - no charring there yet, but this was with near still air. With even light winds, things could get exciting.


3. The boiler can hold 130 ml. Yet the instructions tell you to add exactly 20 ml of water. During my tests I filled the boiler, then pulled out 60 ml with my big syringe, leaving about 70 ml. At the end of the runs, about 30-35 ml was being consumed. So my method leaves a two-fold safety margin. The recommended 20 ml would leave a dry boiler. I was filling the pan level with the top with Sterno. I never did find the fill line mentioned in the instructions, so filling 3mm above an invisible line was difficult.

Run times were 15-20 minutes, getting longer as it broke in. The throttle wheel is fairly non-critical - about 1- 1.5 turns seems to work fine. A really cute engine. Like all pot boilers it needs light winds. I will be keeping the water sprayer handy. After three runs, there is no sign of charring under the pan, so the wood/paint combo seems fairly flame resistant.

At $387 U. S. it comes in at less than a Ruby, only moderately higher than a BAGRS engine, but the double action cylinder is much smoother running than the BAGRS. Not a lot of power yet, but that should improve with break-in. A winner!


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, dad's is en route, I will pass on the boiler tips to him.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Last week I sent ken an email about the max and he told me 8 weeks away since the factory sold out of them, 

I told him to put me down for one in an email and I haven't heard back from him(I hope he got my message). - (hes probably just busy).

Yes I want one of these small engines, would look good tugging around my LGB mini beer/wine cars


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

With more time this morning, I realized that the two instruction sheets included - one for Max (German) and one for the stationary engines (English) are NOT the same. Last night I of course grabbed the one I could read easily, versus my 40 years ago German classes.

The Max instructions specify 8 syringes of water, not 4, or 40 ml total, which is barely enough, but harder than filling and withdrawing 60ml, then draining the boiler at the end of each run. Also the fractured English translation can lead to problems. It can be used for Max, but only if the differences are noted. The word translated as 'injection' in parts 1 & 2 should be 'syringe'. Then you realize that the syringe holds 2 ml of steam oil, not the lubricator. I will try to get someone at the German restaurant tonight to provide a more accurate translation of a few critical parts.

Further notes. The photos are mostly of the stationary engine versions. Only the front page and section 4 show Max in the German and stationary in the English. Also Max has three unused boiler plugs for possible accessories. I notice that Max has a much shorter stack than the stationary versions, which may be contributing to the draft problems. The best draft appears to be when the Sterno pan is inserted all the way, then slightly withdrawn, no more than 1/8". Then air can flow on all sides of the pan. (The boiler is elevated slightly above the base.

I bent the steam exhaust to vent down beside the track, instead of beside the stack, which might provide a little more draft, but risks splashing water onto the fire. I have a couple other simple tests to try to improve the draft and reduce stray flames. Will report on them later.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Always wanted to use thi gif.

Please post some photo's if you get a chance.

Thanks, Bob


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

No photos available of the last test - which demonstrated that the Sterno pan handle WILL burn. The main problem at present is how to keep the fire INSIDE the boiler. Problem is similar to the BAGRS engine - great in calm air - otherwise look out. Does anyone know of a good flame resistant paint or stain for wood?

Flaming pan handles should be carefully bent further from the boiler - but you still have to maneuver it easily. A short stack extension about 4 cm seems to improve the draft -speed increases about 25%. Anyone know what the maximum recommended height for Gauge 1 is? The stock Max is 16cm above the rails - shorter than the Regner Willi at 18cm.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Uploading pictures to this site are sufficiently awkward that I avoid it if possible. Pictures are highly over-rated in my opinion - I seldom guess what the modern hieroglyphic public mean. 4,000 years after the pharoahs, and civilization has regressed to pictograms. The fire problems with Max are essentially the same as BAGRS - open pot boiler with Sterno fire with wood parts within 1 inch of the flames - both have wooden bunkers. BAGRS has no pan handle but the bunkers are also at risk.


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## msimpson (Jan 5, 2009)

Here it is on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ub1ueWGYmk 

Regards, Mike


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the link, I see it is the first externally fired loco that is carpet safe?


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the link Mike. Nice looking little machine. If a picture is worth a 1000 words, then a movie is worth a million


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, the vid has the typical YouTube problem of getting sucked into a diversion.... 

One of the sidebar videos is of some upgrades to a Max, but no real description of what was done. 

Included were a sight glass and a pressure gauge....which begs me to ask, what about a Goodall? 

The fact that I can fire my Jan-Mod for hours on end due to meths and a goodall make it enjoyable to me. Would be nice if the same could be done with the tiny Max? 

Another item..... 

Anyone thought of a chain drive to the second axel?


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Max now appears to run safely with the fire contained in the firebox. I used a piece of 70 mesh SS screen as a flame arrestor across the opening. The screen has to placed after lighting the pan, and does get scorched during the run, but no break-over. 8 mesh hardware cloth does suffer break through. The screen should not be bigger than needed due to heat losses. Someday I may figure out how to post a photo, but don't hold your breath.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

If anyone else has operated their Max, please report. Mine seems to be losing power, not gaining it, after about 20 runs. No obvious cause found yet. The drive assembly seems to still be stiff and noisy. But close examination has shown nothing yet. The fire may not be as hot either. Water in the fuel? Crud buildup in the flue? 95 degrees and high humidity outside, so not fun poking around a hot engine.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Dad's review. Background: Model railroader for over six decades, his first live steam loco outside a 3/4" scale "hulk" we have discussed here before. 

VERY disappointing the broken bits and poor packing by the US vendor. I guess he will have to take it up with the vendor, as Regner has yet to still reply to the e-mails I sent them months ago. 

I also gather that the encoded message in his e-mail is that I will be getting some German instructions to translate for him...... 

_

Very mixed emotions, but I like it. 

It came in a nice heavy cardboard shipping carton. In side was a godly amount of popcorn around a flimsy cardboard Regner box. 

The Regner box was OK. But, inside that was the loco with enough bubble wrap crammed around it that it had broken most of the nice wood sides on either end of loco. Easily fixed with some Elmer's but I will wait until I have finished the learning curve re operation. 

There was a small plastic zip lock bag with 4 things that baffled me for a while. I think they are: a link, a pin, an Allen wrench and a wheel gauge. It would appear the wheels are set for 45 mm, but the front and rear axles are way off. One too wide, the other too narrow by about 5 mm. Easily fixed with the Allen wrench. 

Then two plastic syringes, one empty, one with only a ccm of an almost black oil. 

Now come the two instruction sheets. It would seem (not seam) that some one with a bit better English could have helped a bit. I suggest you save this until you get your copies of the instructions. 

I'll let you explain the proper volumes. I guess burning paste is Sterno. Is their web site the only source of oil? I don't want to risk salad oil. In paragraph "4, Heating", it mentions filling about 3 mm above the "seam". I see no "seam" so I assume they mean the bottom of the fuel cup. Note that the fire "seams" invisible. 

The boiler and machined parts look very nice. There is double reduction between the crank shaft and the axle. There will be a lot of strokes per revolution of the wheels. 

I guess I understand "#5, Open steam tap". #6 is rather pointless on my loco. The pipe is bent away from the stack anyway. When you get your copies and study them a bit, give me a call. Need to buy water and fuel before I can try it out 
_


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

My engine also had broken wood parts - easily fixed with glue. The two sets of instructions are German for Max and English for the stationary versions. Most of the sections are supposed to be the same. However, Max requires 8 syringes of water, not 4. Also, the heating section 4 is different. The stationary versions apparently have a seam - for Max just fill the cup with Sterno. The syringe with 2ml of heavy oil is regular Regner steam oil - appears a little on the heavy side, but is regular steam oil. A local German restaurant owner was able to confirm my uncertain 40 year old scientific German skills.

I can post a complete English translation soon.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Why fix when you paid for something new. Unacceptable, and not a good impression. 

Thanks for the tip on the seam, and I need to send dad up some steam oil, or have him find some locally. Should send him some of the larger syringes I have around here for my models. 

Apparently per another e-mail, I have both sheets en route to review for him.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

The steam oil in the syringe is enough for 20 runs or so. The tiny reservoir holds only about 1-2 drops. For the lube oil, see if he can find a bottle of 3 in 1 BLUE label - designed for electric motors - no additives, and heavier than sewing machine oil.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks the 3/1 blue I have used on my Jane-Janet spec Mamod, works very well. 

EDIT: I saw your Sig, how do you like you IP Jane? Always wanted one of these or a Janet.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Miss Julia is finally running very well indeed. Now very reliable. Don't ask how many hours I spent replacing the rings, wicking, flushing crud out of the valves, fixing leaks, etc. Fortunately a relatively simple engine.


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