# My AML USRA 0-6-0 CN



## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

After waiting 10 days for the US to finally decide to get the engine to my house from the Canadian border, I have my AML USRA 0-6-0!
I opened it up last night and took a look at it. the wife took a look too.  then I put it back in the box and wrapped it up with christmas paper.  I put it under the tree.  I had a coworker write a letter of apology from Mr. C about how it was late for Christmas.  This way the kids will understand.  Nicholas got his LGB Amtrak Phase V, he was upset on christmas day when after everything was opened, I didnt have the steam engine I asked for.  I just told him that I must not have been good enough to get it.  8yr olds are so gullable.  


So the kids are home with the wife and they are waiting for me to get home tonight to open the big box that santa delivered last night after he found the box "in the back room".  My wife asked nicholas what he thought could be in the box, and he told her that it must be the steam engine I asked santa for.  darn kid is too slick sometimes.


So, I have some steam oil, I need to get some butane and distilled water, and what else should i get?


I will take some pics tonight if anyone is interested.


Kevin


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Make sure to lube all the moving parts! I use steam oil lots of the time but any lightweight oil should work. Don't forget to turn it upside down and get the parts inside the frames.

Also you will need a lighter of some kind. *HAVE FUN!*


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## Tom Leaton (Apr 26, 2008)

Looking forward to the pics.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I just told him that I must not have been good enough to get it 


Nice trick, but how did you turn around and get good enough? [] 

Make sure to lube all the moving parts


Ordinary oil will do in apinch, but your hardware store should also have 'turbine oil', designed for motor bearings, etc. (The 'etc' = model steam engine axles, rods, etc.)


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Well Kevin, did Santa finally come afterall?


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, Kevin - congrats on the new engine! When you've a chance, it would be great to see some pics. I'm about to cull my collection of electric engines and am considering the 0-6-0 as a potential stablemate to my accucraft shay. thanks!


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

I told my twin grand-daughters, age 5, that I was intentionally bad this year, so I would get coal in my stocking to run my coal fired locomotive. Lauren called me on Christmas day to see if I had gotten my coal.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Well, What I told my son is that I figured that I must have not been good enough this year to get my 0-6-0, but I guess Santa decided that no matter what I thought, it was really his decision and that he decided I was just fine.




Ok, so I finally got pics taken.
so here they are.....




















































































































































Kevin


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

So, there they are....
I am disappointed in the instruction booklet.  its instructions are I think better suited for someone who has run/owned live steamers before.  
I understand that I am to add the fuel, then oil, then water.  BUT they lack a diagram labeling all the different items on the engine and tender.


for example, they make no mention as to WHERE to add the oil.  in which holding tube do you add that?
I understand that you add the water to the tender, that its a warm bath for the fuel, but that is NOT where the water for boiling goes, correct?  although in pic 9 and 10, there appears to be a connection for a water source tube.  Am I right here?
I believe I will add the water to the boiler in the valve in pic  7


the documentation fails to fully explain the two plastic control knobs and EXACTLY what they do.  I have an idea, but it would be so nice to have confirmation from documentation.


So, for now, I will sit on my hands, look around for butane fuel, anyone want to let me know where they get theirs?  and hope that someone from the NHGRS wants to lend a hand to a newbie.
 
And, yes that middle driver is blind, I was a bit disappointed, but after thinking about it, I am fine with it. 
I tested it out on the floor with some spare track, it will negotiate a 5' DIA curve as advertised.  BUT, its not happy with it.  not because of the wheel arrangement....but because of detail parts on the back of the cab hitting the tender.  The hand rails on the back of the cab, will actually hit the tender as it goes around the curve.  I was really surprised, even at the second drawbar hole.  
Now, with the cab roof removed, the engine WILL navigate a 4' DIA curve.  with the cab roof, the corners strike the vertical side plates on the tender, the ones seen in pic 8.  I have in my mind the plans to cut these side plates off to some degree as I see no real use for them.  they might be there because the proto has them, but they make it very difficult to get the fingers in there if the cab roof is on.  plus if i cut them back I can use all my 4 sidings in the layout, this will be really nice seeing one is perfect for setup and cooldown.


Kevin


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Tender
Control- large black knob: gas valve
-other unused barb can be used for a steam heater line to warm the water bath 

Cab- Large black knob: throttle
-to left of that is the slotted plug/cap tube for oil
-center above the black throttle is the slotted plug/cap to unsrew for water into the boiler

Gas: order from our sponsor Royce along with a filler valve for good price
Until then could use Ronson gas container or find a sporting goods store for 70/30 mix but need a filler valve.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

You can get fuel at Academy in the camping department where gas stoves and lamps are located. You will; however, need an adapter. Academy is just a suggestion. You probably can find it at Wal Mart or at boating supply stores. 

Another suggestion is drugstores where you can get Ronson Butane for cigarette lighters. This is a little expensive but you will not need a adaptor.

I also suggest you take a look at the thread "Diamond Head Steam Up - Fuel" which I found on page 2 of this fourm.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Charles-
Thanks for the info.  So I dont do anything with the valve in pic 7?  ok


too bad that barb is not used for water supply.  Now, the website does mention a optional water pump.  I have not looked into that, but wouldnt that be used in the tender and force water to the boiler?


I will look for Royce.



Posted By Charles on 01/05/2009 8:54 AM
Tender
Control- large black knob: gas valve
-other unused barb can be used for a steam heater line to warm the water bath 
 
Cab- Large black knob: throttle
-to left of that is the slotted plug/cap tube for oil
-center above the black throttle is the slotted plug/cap to unsrew for water into the boiler
 
Gas: order from our sponsor Royce along with a filler valve for good price
Until then could use Ronson gas container or find a sporting goods store for 70/30 mix but need a filler valve.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
The seventh photo is the safety valve. Sometimes it might need to be adjusted but you will have to determine the release point of boiler pressure (blows off) in coordination with the pressure gauge.

Yes, now that you mention the "extra", so that brass connection on the tender is for the hand pump that can be retrofitted into the tender to pump water allowing for extended run when one is stopping to refill gas/water (of course you know you cannot take off the in cab cap to add water when the boiler is hot/underpressure- would result in the old radiator trick).


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin, any chance you'll be able to make the NHGRS meeting in Manchester this Friday? If so, bring the engine along for show-and-tell! I will be there, along with several other live steam guys from the group so we can answer your questions and give you some pointers.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

ok, safety valve, I was wondering where that was. 
things are getting clearer.


I might have forgotten the whole radiator trick.  thanks for mentioning it, as it does of course make complete sense, but something that could easily be forgotten.


Kevin 






 
Posted By Charles on 01/05/2009 9:53 AM
Kevin
The seventh photo is the safety valve.  Sometimes it might need to be adjusted but you will have to determine the release point of boiler pressure (blows off) in coordination with the pressure gauge.
 
Yes, now that you mention the "extra", so that brass connection on the tender is for the hand pump that can be retrofitted into the tender to pump water allowing for extended run when one is stopping to refill gas/water (of course you know you cannot take off the in cab cap to add water when the boiler is hot/underpressure- would result in the old radiator trick).


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By rwjenkins on 01/05/2009 10:11 AM
Kevin, any chance you'll be able to make the NHGRS meeting in Manchester this Friday? If so, bring the engine along for show-and-tell! I will be there, along with several other live steam guys from the group so we can answer your questions and give you some pointers.

Making it to manchester this friday will be tough.  I am pretty close to you guys, but Manchester is still a 2hr drive.  
I do want to join your club, I have already informed the wife and told her that we will be going to the milford show in march.  hopefully as club members.
I am not sure how it all works out.


maybe I can make it to the meeting via video conference.....


Kevin


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

to left of that is the slotted plug/cap tube for oil



As we had a short discussion about oiling, I should point out that this is the reservoir for steam oil - the thick stuff (Royce has some.)  You have to remove water from the bottom of this after every run and make sure it is full before each run.  Your photos show there is a 'drain' under the LH side of the cab, but I can't tell if it is a 'blowdown' (like the C-16, see manual below) or a drain for the steam oil reservoir. 


Water goes in the boiler through the slotted plug/cab in the front center of the boiler.  Remove a little after you fill it completely - and use distilled water in the boiler (your local supermarket probably sells 'steam distilled water'; just the ticket.


You don't need water in the tender around the butane tank unless the weather is very cold or very hot.  A warm water bath will help stabilize the butane temp, but in normal weather you should be OK. 

P.S. Accucraft has a bunch of Manuals online. While I didn't see the 0-6-0 on the list, the C-16 Manual has all the controls photographed and labeled. [The C-16 has the steam oil reservoir under the running board, but operation is the same.]  I think you'll find it very informative.
*http://www.accucraft.com/manuals/Manual-C16LS.htm**http://www.accucraft.com/manuals/Manual-C16LS.htm*


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Gas: order from our sponsor Royce along with a filler valve for good price 
Until then could use Ronson gas container or find a sporting goods store for 70/30 mix but need a filler valve.


Another minor issue. Accucraft will tell you not to use the 'camping gaz' mentioned by Charles, as the gas tank isn't designed for the higher pressures. However, most of us have done it without incident, and the fuel works fine and is less finicky than pure butane. 

The latter is readily available at your local Korean supermarket - they use it for cooking stoves.


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 01/06/2009 8:11 AM
to left of that is the slotted plug/cap tube for oil



Your photos show there is a 'drain' under the LH side of the cab, but I can't tell if it is a 'blowdown' (like the C-16, see manual below) or a drain for the steam oil reservoir. 





That is the drain for the lubricator. At the end of your run, when there is still some pressure left in the boiler, close the throttle and put the J-bar in neutral. Open the drain a turn or two, place a paper towel / rag / can under there and open the throttle. This will blow the reminants out of the lubricator. Close the drain. Then you can fill the lubricator again by opening the top and filling with *steam cylinder oil*.

Of course you should always verify your lubricator is full before a run.


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

One more thing.... Always make sure your engines throttle is closed while cooling. When a boiler cools it will create a vacuum that can "pull" oil out of the lube and into the boiler.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

You guys are giving me tons of helpful information....I sure hope I can retain it all.


Kevin


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

Make a hardcopy and carry it with you at all times.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*If you don't have someone to write those instructions - may I suggest Ernie Noa!*

*He has 16 pages of instructions with photos on how to set up his portable layout. *
*I never have understood the Egyptian string in the early stages of this process.*

*Usually the layout is set up complete long before getting through the first page of writing and photos.*

*Best way to learn is to go to a steamup and anyone there will be more than willing to help a beginner steamer through all the steps.* *This is how most of us got our start.*


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By David Rose on 01/06/2009 9:04 AM
One more thing.... Always make sure your engines throttle is closed while cooling. When a boiler cools it will create a vacuum that can "pull" oil out of the lube and into the boiler. 


David,
Do you not mean 'open' when cooling?
Surely, if it IS closed, it WILL suck in anything it can.
Anyway, I would be more concerned with the possibility of the throttle 'seizing up solid' when cold, and not being sure if it will open next time the loco is used.
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada


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## Garry Paine (Jan 2, 2008)

Would a Goodall valve solve the problem and and as the boiler cools suck in air as the pressure outside the boiler is greater than the pressure in it?
Garrett


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin,you are welcome to bring your engine up to Weybridge, where Lllyn Rice and I can go over things with you. However, it sounds like some of the New Hampshire guys might be closer to you. 
Any chance you could get away for Cabin Fever in York, PA. on the 17/18th? Bring your engine, and you will return home an expert runner, with possibly more advice than you can absorb in one dose. Llyn and I will be there. 

Larry


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Larry Green on 01/07/2009 1:05 PM
Kevin,you are welcome to bring your engine up to Weybridge, where Lllyn Rice and I can go over things with you. However, it sounds like some of the New Hampshire guys might be closer to you. 
Any chance you could get away for Cabin Fever in York, PA. on the 17/18th? Bring your engine, and you will return home an expert runner, with possibly more advice than you can absorb in one dose. Llyn and I will be there. 

Larry


Larry-
thank you for the invite.  I just might take you up on it.  I just need a time to do so. 
I will not be able to get to Cabin Fever.  too short notice for me and my family...kids in school I never asked for the vaca time at work...you know...
 
So it looks like you and I are about 2hrs apart...not much for a highway except for rt7.  Maybe we can catch up after Cabin Fever.
I am not sure where all the guys in the NH club live, but Manchester, NH is 2hrs from me as well.
springfield, VT....the center of the universe...2hrs from anywhere


Kevin


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## Tom Leaton (Apr 26, 2008)

Garry,


As David said, contraction in the boiler can be relieved.  (Some want to leave the throttle open after running, but for another reason: so it will not get stuck in the closed position after cooling. )  Instead of relying on the Goodall valve, maybe you could loosen the H2O filler cap in the cab for a few minutes.  I have done this by accident.


cheers


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Ok, I am starting to get confused with the shut down....
when the boiler is cooling down, it will create a vacuum.  so, I need to leave the throttle open, so that after the vacuum is created, the throttle isnt stuck closed?  If I do this, I should disconnect the fuel hose from the backhead of the boiler correct?


Kevin


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## David Rose (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 01/06/2009 10:21 PM
Posted By David Rose on 01/06/2009 9:04 AM
One more thing.... Always make sure your engines throttle is closed while cooling. When a boiler cools it will create a vacuum that can "pull" oil out of the lube and into the boiler. 


David,
Do you not mean 'open' when cooling?
Surely, if it IS closed, it WILL suck in anything it can.
Anyway, I would be more concerned with the possibility of the throttle 'seizing up solid' when cold, and not being sure if it will open next time the loco is used.
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada


David,

Perhaps leaving both the throttle and the lub drain open until cool down is over is a possible option? I was unaware that throttles 'seize up solid' if you leave them closed while cooling, especially after doing this a few hundred times myself and not experiencing a seizure. I do know that if you leave the throttle open during a cool down, it will suck steam oil in the boiler if there is no other path of 'less' resistance (like a blown down which this engine does not appear to have) for it to pull from.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Barely open the"Throttle"... this is not because you want to releave the vacuum, but to prevent it getting stuck due to thermal expansion/contraction problems. If it were not for the possiblility of the throttle getting stuck it would be recommended to keep it closed so that oil would not be drawn back into the boiler.

Completely open the "Blower"... this releaves the vacuum and helps prevent the suction pulling oil from the steam line through the throttle into the boiler.

The "Fuel Valve" is not of concern in this as it has nothing to do with the content in the boiler.

If you have a water carrying tender connected to the boiler, the vacuum can refill your boiler for you by pulling water from the tender, but if you have opened the blower then it will not get as much water as it would otherwise. But if you close the blower to get more of a refill, and for some reason the water inlet gets closed or clogged (a rare instance), then the boiler might suck oil back through the throttle which is one of the two the bad things to avoid (the other is the stuck throttle).

DO NOT attempt to open a filler port to the boiler if there is any pressure still present as you can blow the cap/plug skyward and scald your hands. Once the pressure is gone you can open it, but managing to open it right between "still has pressure" and "now it is a vacuum" is too much trouble. 

Just crack open the throttle a wee bit, open the Blower completely, and spend the time waiting for the engine to cool off by wiping the locomotive down, replenish the steam oil and cogitate on how much fun you just had and will have again!


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Keep in mind that the AML 0-6-0 is a butane-fired engine and doesn't have a blower.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By rwjenkins on 01/08/2009 4:04 PM
Keep in mind that the AML 0-6-0 is a butane-fired engine and doesn't have a blower.


ACK! I've crossed me threads here... I was think'n about the thread about shutting down an alcohol fire. Sorry.

Still "some" of what I said is fodder for thought. Without a blower to releave the vacuum the problem of sucking oil into the boiler is compounded. Hopefully, the engine in question has some other method to release the vacuum (I don't know anything about the AML 0-6-0 specifically). Either a water intake that can be used to let air or water in, or even a whistle that can release the vacuum would help.

Baring those things, then watching the pressure and opening the fill valve AFTER there is no more pressure will take care of the problem... just make sure there is no pressure left, and that you get it done before the vacuum starts to form.

The amount of oil that is drawn into the boiler is usually not very much and a simple cleaning with soapy water will cut it and remove it if it gets too bad (of course, rinse the soapy water out too!), but it is usually easier to prevent it than to have to fix it.

If the throttle gets stuck shut it will become unstuck the next time the boiler is heated again. It is usually best to not force the stuck throttle open as it could break threads or scar the seat, or worse, snap the shaft.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

This is what the AML 0-6-0 looks like pulling a couple of heavyweights.


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