# Aristo-Craft Switcher Live Steam Checklist



## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

I prepared this one page Aristo-Craft Switcher Live Steam Checklist after reading through the manual several times and taking notes. It should not be considered a replacement for the Aristo-Craft manual, but as a supplemental to help new live steam users, like me. I welcome all suggestions to improve it. 

*Startup*
1. Charge NiCd battery with switch off on tender.
2. Connect jet butane feed and electrical plug from tender to boiler, if not connected.
3. Turn on switch and center throttle by pressing Fast to full open and then Slow for approximately 8 seconds to enable proper steam pressure buildup.
4. Add 4 ml of steam oil initially and after every 2nd run, while only moving engine forward to complete fill.
5. Add 240 (225 minimum) ml of distilled water to boiler that should get sight glass greater than 2/3 full.
6. Add two funnels of tap water to butane well in tender, draining after 2nd butane fill.
7. Fill butane tank and bleed off small amount of butane with jet feed removed from boiler.
8. Turn on switch for power and ignite butane while opening counter clockwise the butane supply valve until flame is heard burning.
9. Open butane supply valve to 1 o'clock with tender well drain valve facing you and wait for operating pressure to be displayed on pressure gauge or safety valve to open.

*Butane Refill*
1. Turn off valve for butane supply.
2. Turn off switch on tender after following Startup procedure Step #3 above.
3. Follow Startup procedure starting at Step #7 above, if 2nd run.
4. Follow Startup procedure starting at Step #4 above, after 2nd run allow 15 minutes before removing and replacing the distilled water in the boiler in Step #5.

*Shutdown*
1. Place throttle in full open to release pressure after shutting off butane supply valve.
2. Turn off switch on tender.
3. Remove all steam oil after every 2nd run and replace with new steam oil.
4. Remove distilled water from boiler using syringe with yellow Tygon or other suitable tubing and copper tube to reach inside the boiler.
5. Drain tap water from butane well in tender.
6. Charge NiCd battery with switch off on tender.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bryan
Consider doing this quite often during running sessions, "Drain tap water from butane well in tender" given that the water will chill quickly and effect the gas flow.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Good job Bryan. I did the same for the Mikado, it's a shame Aristo did not do it in their manuals.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I love checklists. I used to fly small planes. prop-check, pitot tubes-check, ailerons-check. sump fuel-check, rudder-check, lights-check and so on. At least with small scale there isn't so much at stake other then your checkbook should something go wrong.


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## steveciambrone (Jan 2, 2008)

You should remove the water from the lubricator and refill with oil before every run of any live steam engine. Start every run with a full lubricator. 

There is no need to remove he water from the boiler after running the engine, they can be stored with water inside. 

Thanks 
Steve


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Just out of curiosity, what is the going price for this loco? I checked the well known on-line shops without much success.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Posted By steveciambrone on 01 Feb 2011 08:33 PM 
You should remove the water from the lubricator and refill with oil before every run of any live steam engine. Start every run with a full lubricator. 

There is no need to remove he water from the boiler after running the engine, they can be stored with water inside. 

Thanks 
Steve 
Were the real steam engines left with water in the boiler when not in use? What were the real boilers made of? I am guessing cast iron?


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Jeremiah - most full-size locomotives were never allowed to go cold for a number of reasons. 

1. It takes a LONG time to start a loco up from cold - the bigger the loco, the longer the time - and here I mean a couple of days. 

2. The thermal shock of constant cooling and re-heating served to cause all kinds of problems in steam boilers - something that the owners of the new British locomotive 'Tornado' have found out to their cost. After less than two years in intermittent service, the boiler required extensive and expensive rebuilding work due to the constant hot/cold cycling that a locomotive in full-time service would never be allowed to experience. 

Most loco sheds kept loco warm with steam 24/7 when they were off-shed, ready to fire up with the least amount of wasted time, energy and fuel. It takes a LOT of fuel to start up a loco from cold. 

And boilers started off being made from wrought iron and rapidly progressed to steel as soon as technology permitted. Only boilers our size - well, including ride-on and ride-behind sized locos - tend to be made of copper. We have two 1/3 scale 'Romulus' locos with different boilers, one all-copper and one welded steel. Cast iron is very good in compression - that is why you see columns made of the stuff, but is appalling in tension - which is why there are no cast-iron boilers... 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org 
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund 
Member of the Southern Federation of Model Engineers


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## adelmo (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan: Wholesale Trains has them for $399 with MLS membership. Very tempting. 

Alan


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Tac,
Thanks. Is there a good website you would recommend which would explain more about steam engines? I have read a lot of library books on the subject, but sometimes there is that website which has a lot of detail and up to date info. Makes perfect sense about the cold boiler.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

You might try wikipedia for more information online.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iceclimber on 02 Feb 2011 06:41 AM 
Tac,
Thanks. Is there a good website you would recommend which would explain more about steam engines? I have read a lot of library books on the subject, but sometimes there is that website which has a lot of detail and up to date info. Makes perfect sense about the cold boiler.


Jeremiah
Try this online site it covers many of the basic fundamentals (DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, AND OPERATION):

Locomotives, boilers and engines


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 02 Feb 2011 06:57 AM 
You might try wikipedia for more information online.

Yeah, I tried that and while it does provide a lot, I thought maybe there was better stuff out there. Thanks Charles. Probably not much more I haven't seen, but there are things like snifter valves which are not covered on the basic locomotive sites.


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Posted By steveciambrone on 01 Feb 2011 08:33 PM 
You should remove the water from the lubricator and refill with oil before every run of any live steam engine. Start every run with a full lubricator. 

There is no need to remove he water from the boiler after running the engine, they can be stored with water inside. 

Thanks 
Steve I noticed that the steam oil is very foamy when removed the lubricator after two runs, so it sounds like a good idea to change after each run, which I will edit the checklist.

I have found a small amount of oil in the water after two runs, so I thought that it would be better to remove it to avoid trapping in the sight glass or clouding the sight glass. I am open to other more experienced live steamer on what is best here.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I noticed that the steam oil is very foamy when removed the lubricator after two runs, so it sounds like a good idea to change after each run, which I will edit the checklist. 
I have found a small amount of oil in the water after two runs, so I thought that it would be better to remove it to avoid trapping in the sight glass or clouding the sight glass. I am open to other more experienced live steamer on what is best here. 
I'm quite surprised there hasn't been more comments, but maybe it's early and the rest of the crew are still asleep . . 

I've never heard of a need to "replace" the steam oil after running (once, twice or whatever.) Foamy is good - it's the oil/water emulsion that no-one fully understands, especially in those dead-leg, non-displacement lubricators like the one on the Acc C-16. Yes, get the water out so you can get more oil in, but what's left in there before you fill it isn't going to hurt anything. 
But I could be wrong... 


There is no need to remove he water from the boiler after running the engine, they can be stored with water inside. 

And after reading many discussion about how to "store" your engine after running, I'm sure the concensus was that it should be stored dry - even distilled water has ions that will (eventually) attack the solder and other metals inside - not to mention the miniscule electrolysis that may be going on.


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Many good points were made above that I will consider in my first revision of this checklist. 

I would like to add another heading titled "Maintenance," but do not know where to start here, as I do not recall seeing anything on maintenance in the instruction manual. Today, I tried fitting several of the tools provided with the engine and found several fit the nuts around rods connecting the valves. 

I welcome all suggestions on what to include under this section of Maintenance. 

*Maintenance * 
1. Using the tools provided with the engine, tighten the nuts around the rods connecting the valves. (correct?) 
2. ??? 
3. ???


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well seeing how you have posted the maintenance question here chances are my post will not get deleted such as Aristo did yesterday. I would add oiling of all moving parts and also check all bolts screw for tightness. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Shame on you RJ! What a radical suggestion to oil moving parts and check all bolts for tightness. 

Man, if you posted that on the Aristo site (which you did), no wonder they deleted it! The nerve! 

Cannot believe that Aristo would take affront to a helpful suggestion that really applies to all live steam locos. 

(unbelievable, isn't it) 



Greg


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Posted By aceinspp on 08 Feb 2011 09:38 AM 
Well seeing how you have posted the maintenance question here chances are my post will not get deleted such as Aristo did yesterday. I would add oiling of all moving parts and also check all bolts screw for tightness. Later RJD I added oiling to #2 below:

*Maintenance 
*1. Using the tools provided with the engine, tighten the nuts around the rods connecting the valves.
2. Oil all moving parts with ??? 
3. ???

What are the tools with handle with hex bolt used to adjust or tighten?

Has anyone found a schematic diagram or taken pictures of all locations for #1 above?

BGD


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

BGD

Has anyone found a schematic diagram or taken pictures of all locations for #1 above?

Light machine oil work applying to any thing that moves, makes a connection, such as rods, cross head guides, levers, axles, bearings (except for wheels/tires). When in doubt oil it. You can and should clean it off with hot water and detergent then reapply on a routine schedule. 


Routine maintenance should occur after transport of an engine, after a run and then prolong storage:

Check for leaks: gas, water, steam lines, safety O rings, throttle body leaks in cab, sight glass leaks, hoses for weakness and pressure gauge. If accessible put a drop of light machine oil on the safety tip. If alcohol fired check the alignment of the exhaust and blower in the smokebox. Steam lines as check for leaks in the smokebox.


Structure check: along with the fittings, bolts, nuts add: brake shoes (if detailed model), couplers, engine/tender drawbar, piston to cross head connection and gland nut.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Charles, what is your opinion of leaving water in a boiler, even if it is REALLY distilled? 

Short times ok? or just don't do it? I saw the question asked earlier. Physics would tell you that in very pure water, it could attract metal ions, i.e. "etch" metals like tin, lead, etc. 

Regards, Greg


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 08 Feb 2011 10:45 AM 
Charles, what is your opinion of leaving water in a boiler, even if it is REALLY distilled? 

Short times ok? or just don't do it? I saw the question asked earlier. Physics would tell you that in very pure water, it could attract metal ions, i.e. "etch" metals like tin, lead, etc. 

Regards, Greg 
If the engine is ongoing to the stored or non-operational then drain it.


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Charles, thank you for the specific maintenance information included below: 

Maintenance - should occur after transport of an engine, after a run and then prolong storage: 
1. Using the tools provided with the engine, tighten the nuts around the rods connecting the valves. 
2. Oil all moving parts with light machine oil applying it to all moving parts, and where these parts make a connection, such as rods, cross head guides, levers, axles, bearings (except for wheels/tires). If accessible put a drop of light machine oil on the safety tip. 
3. Clean it off with hot water and detergent then reapply oil on a routine schedule. 
4. Check for leaks at gas lines, water lines, steam lines, safety O rings, throttle body leaks in cab, sight glass leaks, hoses for weakness and pressure gauge, 
5. Check steam lines for leaks in the smokebox. 
6. Check structure, along with the fittings, bolts, nuts, couplers, engine/tender drawbar, piston to cross head connection and gland nut. (add: brake shoes if detailed model). 

I left out "If alcohol fired check the alignment of the exhaust and blower in the smokebox," since it does not apply to Aristo Live Steam butane fired. 

Bryan


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great list. Lots of good stuff. Ya Greg I think the vendetta is out for this kid







Later RJD


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By aceinspp on 08 Feb 2011 04:16 PM 
Great list. Lots of good stuff. Ya Greg I think the vendetta is out for this kid







Later RJD RJD
Just curious did you happen to mention another brand name during you post at Aristo?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, I saw his posts for the few minutes they lasted. This was on the Aristo 0-4-0 thread, basically what you see that Bryan has presented here. 

Post was one sentence, recommending tightening the nuts and bolts and oiling the gear. They really are deleting all of his posts, no matter how vanilla. I can send the pdf screenshot if anyone thinks RJ is not being truthful. 

I'm glad Bryan came over here, seems like more knowledgeable steam guys here, and you can mention checking tightness of bolts without being worried. 

Greg


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

By the time you finish going over "the" list your time slot would be over at most steamups!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nope Charles I just posted the facts to the AC 0-4-0. Later RJD


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Charles, should I use 3-In-One Heavy duty Oil, which is a 20wt machine oil, and heavier than 3-In-One Standard to provide an example of a "light machine oil?"


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

Should I also add: 
7. Lubricate axle bearings packed with grease at the factory, using heavy machine type oil at 6 month intervals. 
8. Grease the throttle gears and lubricate the u-joints and shaft bearings with heavy machining oil at 6 month intervals. 

Bryan


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By bdelmo on 09 Feb 2011 08:16 AM 
Charles, should I use 3-In-One Heavy duty Oil, which is a 20wt machine oil, and heavier than 3-In-One Standard to provide an example of a "light machine oil?" 
I prefer "light" for moving parts given that it is less sticky thus not as likely to 'trap" particles that might impede the motion of parts.


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

As part of my maintenance described above after running my Aristo live steam switcher at the ECLSTS York, PA show, I recorded locations of screws and nuts found and gently tightened. Only a few bolts were slightly loose on the rods, others remain snug after approximately 25 total runs (perhaps 5-6 hours). 

Bottom 
1.	Four small screws by wheels 
2.	Four medium screws between pistons 
3.	Two small screws (one each) on pistons 
Side 
1.	Two large screws (one each) on wheels 
2.	Seven medium hex head bolts on rods 
3.	Four small hex head bolts on rods 
4.	One small and two medium screws on upper bracket for valve rods 
5.	One very small screw on lower bracket for valve rods 
6.	Two medium nuts on valve rod using "fork" screw driver and nut wrench 
7.	One large nut on piston rod using nut wrench 
8.	Twelve small hex heads bolts on front and back of piston case 
Top 
1.	Four small screws for oil reservoir 
2.	Four small screws for side steps 
3.	Four small screws for boiler enclosure


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

should I use 3-In-One Heavy duty Oil, 
We've covered this topic repeatedly - the stuff to use is "turbine" oil, which is designed for spinning shafts and bearings. Not the stuff you buy to free up rusty bolts. 

3-in-One has a version in a blue can, I think. My Ace Hardware had a different make with a long flexible spout - great for getting at the eccentrics and reversing gear of my C-19.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I had a hard time finding the 3-in-1 blue can which is SAE 20 I believe for electrical motors. I found some at Lowes after looking at Home Depot, target, wal-mart, napa and both advance auto/autozone. They only had 3 cans left, so I bought 2. I have a small squeeze bottle with a moderately long metal syringe tip for fine application. I have it full of the 3-in-1 which allows me to dispense it a bit more precisely then from the 3-in-1 stock bottle.


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## swanpondwv (Mar 9, 2011)

So.....as a new Aristo 0-4-0 owner, have I mentioned how awesome Bryan is?

Thanks Bryan!


Bill


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