# New to Garden RR Marklin vs LGB



## Dougclay (Oct 26, 2015)

Folks, 



With one kid in college and another about ready to go, it's time to get back into something other than raising kids. 



I have experience in model RR, Marklin HO. About 7 - 8 years ago with little time and money, I broke down my layout, made the room into a guest bed room, and packed all my stuff away. 



Now, I want to get back into it, but the wife likes the guest bedroom, so, I'm thinking about going outside and larger scale. Want to stay in Germany theme (Marklin 1, LGB G), have an area of around 22’ X 12’ in the back yard, I’m in Florida (heat and rain), plan is to start out simple and build up, variation of an oval. 



Some questions, 


1) Please confirm for me Marklin locos will work on LGB track, but not LGB on Marklin track?

2) I don't think Marklin 1 track is weather proof?

3) If I go LGB track, can I use Marklin controllers? Or what is better?

4) Marklin loco even in 1 gauge are all metal construction, (well pretty sure) how about LGB? I'm thinking mostly plastic. 

5) Overall price? LGB easier on the wallet? How about quality? (I have Marklin stuff from 1984 that looks brand new) 

General thoughts of the two, or others to explore. I know there is a track system out there of bending the rails and more or less, hand laying it, but would rather go a little easier construction route. 

Thanks!

Doug


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

My latest loco came with two sets of wheels. One for Marklin and one for LGB.
I was wondering if the standards were that different.

Harvey C.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I can not speak for Marklin but I can for LGB.
There is lots of vendors for 45 mm track and LGB and Trainli have great products and are completely compatible, Plus there is Piko all from Europe. 
Some of these manufacturers products are made for DC but upgradable to DCC.
I have purchased used LGB items that are over 20 years old and just clean them up[ by washing them in the dishwasher at normal settings. THese still look and run great.
Biggest thing I do is add metal wheels for better lower center of gravity.

I am sure others will add more options as you need to let us know how you plan to power the trains (track power or battery and how to control them, wireless and/ or DC vs DCC/digital. Even battery control has some DCC/digital control.
Looks like in the original post that live steam was not a choice but is available in large scale.


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## Dougclay (Oct 26, 2015)

Dan Pierce said:


> as you need to let us know how you plan to power the trains (track power or battery and how to control them, wireless and/ or DC vs DCC/digital. Even battery control has some DCC/digital control.
> Looks like in the original post that live steam was not a choice but is available in large scale.


 
At this point in time, just going old fashion conventional. Big enough expense getting it up and running. 


But do plan to go digital later down the road.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

marklin is standard gauge in proportion. thier stock is gorgeous, and very expensive. truly fine models.

lgb is equally superb. plastic yes. somewhat less fine detail, which can be an asset with handling and the rigors of the outdoors. Plastic is imho better than metal. it doesn't rust , and if it rains, you leave it out, etc., theres no issue. None.

To give you an example, despite my care and age, occasionally I run 'er off the rails, stock hitting either forgiving pine needles or not so forgiving granite. do this with lgb and nothing happens. do this with fine detailed models, such as a bachman shay etc., and you may find things don't go well at all.

I love detail, but, at ten feet away, it really doesn't matter as much.

Much more likely to find, with care and patience, very fine used LGB examples at more reasonable prices. lgb is designed to be outside. it is robust, and parts can be found. lgb is DC. imho, larger g scale power packs, like 5V , will provide decent power, especially in the long run. imho 10V is better. i like bridgewerks products.

cant speak to track, other than lgb, while large, is well suited to outdoors and trampling and rougher conditions.

simply imho you are more likely to find great quality in lgb used for a lot less. also there seem to be more buildings available close to 1:22 (lgb) than 1:32 (marklin i believe).

get a quality loco and power source and as wide radius track as you can to build a foundation upon. the little stainz is a superbly reliable low cost starter loco, imho. 2axel cars are more forgiving of rough track than longer cars and 4 axel cars too. you need less rolling stock than you think, too, to have fun. 

The stainz, is THE loco I suggest to give you headache free operation to start, provided you get one that is in good condition. they pull remarkably well for their size, you get 2 and double head or have two trains, for not a lot of money. Some smoke, all have lights, and, don't bother with the sound versions. trust me on this.

I would suggest, for your consideration , getting an LGB starter set, off ebay , in good to great condition, so you don't have any issues or repairs. add to that a dozen+ pieces of straight track and a couple of switches. This will likely be something you enjoy for decades, as have I.

It is a relatively small outlay, small enough to simply put aside should you change your mind, but absolutely enough to have a lot of fun in the garden-I remember mine well and still run it , despite and obscene hoard of LGB. While the starter set has/may have a stainz and short cars, and small radius track, it is ideal for the holidays too, should you decide to "go big". A starter set, a station, a siding, a few lights for the passenger cars and for the structure itself, and you will have a truly wonderful and enchanting little garden train. FWIW, look at the wheels of used gear to get an idea of wear-they should be pretty shiny and unworn, no brass . Track joiners should be tight and clean for best results. Pola kits, while seemingly expensive, are great, imho. So, for around $700 or so, more if you go bridgewerks, you can have a garden train set as I describe, that you'll likely love for years. Small stock may seem dorky, and toy-like, but, it is solid, forgiving, easy to handle and put on the rails and makes a small layout and tight curves seem bigger.

Just sharing what I my thoughts are. I have the big stuff too. It is impressive, but, takes a lot more room and, money. I find, that I get the same amount of joy from the smaller stuff over the decades.

best of luck.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve

"imho, larger g scale power packs, like 5V , will provide decent power, especially in the long run. imho 10V is better. i like bridgewerks products."

Don't you mean 5 or 10 Amps, instead of volts? I agree, I like Bridgewerks power supplies too.

Chuck


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

chuck n said:


> Steve
> 
> "imho, larger g scale power packs, like 5V , will provide decent power, especially in the long run. imho 10V is better. i like bridgewerks products."
> 
> ...


and this good sir is exactly what happens pre -coffee internet browsing....
yes of course you are correct Chuck!!!!!


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

In terms of track, the Marklin track (at least the stuff I'm familiar with) does not have near the variety of available curve radii, switches, etc., that the product lines from LGB, Piko, Train Line45, Aristo, USA, and Bachmann offer. All of those product lines are interchangeable with each other, as well, the only real difference being the look of the ties. While my aesthetic sense sees the .332" tall rail as being grossly oversized, that's a fair compromise to make in exchange for the variety of sectional track available.

In terms of Marklin vs. LGB trains and such discussions, I tend not to look at my choices as being bound by any single manufacturer. We've got a tremendous variety of prototypes available in large scale. What kind of _trains _do you enjoy running? Buy what appeals to you and don't worry so much about who makes it. I often hear people tell me "I want XYZ to make ABC locomotive because it's my favorite." When I ask them why they don't buy QRS's model of the same locomotive, they tell me they only run XYZ. I have to scratch my head at that one, because the chances of XYZ making something that QRS has already made are pretty slim. (Not unheard of, but very slim.) They'll be waiting quite a long time--time that could otherwise be spent running a very good model of their favorite locomotive. 

Later,

K


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

*1) Please confirm for me Marklin locos will work on LGB track, but not LGB on Marklin track?*

This sounds like a matter of the flange depth and clearance around guide tracks on switches. Marklin Gauge 1 is more targeting the scale modeler, and thus the models are more faithful to the prototype. LGB is positioned as a toy brand, and scale accuracy is sacrificed for durability. (I also have Marklin in HO, and LGB, and I too favor the European flavor.)


*2) I don't think Marklin 1 track is weather proof?*

There are people using Marklin track outdoors. It's probably similar to LGB, but due to smaller cross section, more vulnerable to animals walking on it. Electric switches may be more of an issue.


*3) If I go LGB track, can I use Marklin controllers? Or what is better?*

I think LGB is about to replace their old and limited MTS digital system with Marklin's central station - I'm waiting for this personally to make the switch to digital. The central station is far more capable than MTS, and Marklin also supports phone app based control.


*4) Marklin loco even in 1 gauge are all metal construction, (well pretty sure) how about LGB? I'm thinking mostly plastic. *

All of my LGB are plastic with the exception of wheels and pantographs, and some detail parts like grab irons. I don't see any cause for concern one way or the other, especially if you're storing your models indoors.


*5) Overall price? LGB easier on the wallet? How about quality? (I have Marklin stuff from 1984 that looks brand new) *

LGB is a lot less expensive than Marklin, about half. It's to be expected, as Marklin's models are better detailed.


*General thoughts of the two, or others to explore. I know there is a track system out there of bending the rails and more or less, hand laying it, but would rather go a little easier construction route.* 

I'd go with personal preference. Marklin is standard gauge, meaning the prototype equipment was larger, and ran longer trains on gentler curves. Fitting a standard gauge railway in 12 feet, while possible, would not look as good to my eye. LGB's narrow gauge range looks and runs better in the smaller space.

If you hand-bend track, you can work from longer sections (six or eight feet.) I expect the extra work of bending is more than paid back in less maintenance and loose joints over time. (My railway is indoor, so I don't actually have the experience.) 

***

I agree with Steve regarding a starter set Stainz. I have two of these, and they're probably the best value in large scale model railways. New, for $400, you get sound and smoke, a small power supply, loop of track, and some people.

I'd really try to go larger than four foot diameter curves, though. The Stainz sets run okay, but most of the locomotives and wagons really like R3 much better (eight foot diameter.)


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## Dougclay (Oct 26, 2015)

Thank you for all the input. 


Doug


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## ArtB (Nov 12, 2015)

Doug,
I bought a secondhand Maerklin Spur 1 BR78 tank Hudson which I cleaned up and run on my LGB track. 

Maerklin Spur 1 offerings are scaled 1:32. The railheads are sized smaller and running of G scaled offerings, has issues with flange depth. Maerklin spur 1 does roll through LGB 1605/1615 turnouts... The back to back flange distance seems okay with guard rails, frogs, and closure rails... although the shallow flange does seek bottom while passing the X in the frog. This may prove troubling on two axle European wagons.

Larger wheelbase locomotives will need the LGB R-3 1600 series curves or larger. The BR78 non driving axles bind their coupler pockets into the pilot on each end with a smaller radius. Something like eight foot diameter curves would be the minimum for BR50 Decapods, BR1 Pacifics...and four axle DB silberling coaches.

Maerklin made various electrical offerings in Spur 1. It was pure luck I purchased a DC analog model. Maerklin's AC 22VAC analog reverser, and digital models exist as well. Each system would require matching engines, power supply, and electrical components.(switch motors)

Unlike the Maerklin MAXI product line which has a tinplate metal style, the Spur 1 offering vary in material composition. For example, the BR78 tank Hudson is molded in plastic. The plastic handrails, ladders, and other details are scale sized, thus extremely fragile, and easy break in handling.

(You'll want to search the Internet for eBook_Maerklin_Spur1.pdf for a good collectors reference)

Maerklin couplers are unique to themselves. A handful of predominately European manufacturers share this coupler. It does not readily adapt a swap with the common G scale hook'n'loop.

Both Maerklin and KISS are in the premium range of Spur 1 products. A quick look at eBay offerings, the manufactures' web sites, and licensed dealers will Illustrate pricing of track, rolling stock, scenery items, etc.

The precision and leveling of detailing of Maerklin and KISS is impressive. I would encourage a YouTube search of Maerklin Spur1 or KISS Spur1 to bring up video clips of club layouts in hi def if you haven't seen the latest offerings at a show or dealer.

So...the question is a balance of interests, product availability, costs, space, and what you real like.... 
I hope this helped.
ArtB


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