# Remote op switches with manual override



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi,

I'm sure this has been dealt with before, but after a quick scan I didn't see anything specific so here goes.

Here's my theoretical preference: (A) to be able to control a switch remotely from a central panel / box or two, but also to be able to override the position if I'm standing near the switch (and not the control box). And (B) also to not worry about it at all for trains coming from either leg thru the switch, for situations where rail power issues are n/a.

Part A of the question. My impression is that some LGB's and AC's allow this; but I won't touch the latter, and the former seem not as robust as, say, Train-Li's WA / Proline series. I'd prefer the Prolines, and am planning on them for now, but they don't appear to have a knob / lever on them (?). (I should just call Axel, right?) I love the idea of Ea-sy Air (sp?), but they don't seem readily available, and I can't see that you can override them locally. BTW, down the road, I'd love to try my hand at automation, so I don't want to preclude that if I don't have to.

Part B of the question is, do any of these (or some other products) allow trains coming back thru from either leg (sorry, I forget the proper term), and having the points cooperate without throwing the switch? Yes, some situations will require electrical switching (for rail power)... but the scenario I'm seeing is bringing a train off a simple siding and on to the main line, and not wanting to worry about it. I suppose this is too much to hope for in large scale (I'm recalling my HO days as a kid), but I was wondering if there is a simple solution? 

Budget is a big issue, so I'll need to phase things in. I'm a few months away from ordering, but i'm trying to finish up controls design.

Thanks very much folks, you always give me tons to consider.
Best regards,
Cliff


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

If your talking about a reverse loop or just wanting to come out of a siding then use what we call a spring switch. It will always revert back to the position that it is originally lined for. You can adjust the tension so as most cars /locos will operate through it with out derailing. Later RJD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

RJD,
Yes, in regards to "part B" of my question. 
Is this a product, like an alternative to a switch machine? Or is it a spring that you set up at the throw bar, between it and switch machine? If the former, do you have a link? If the latter, maybe an article ref?
Thanks!
Cliff


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The LGB's (probably PIKO now) are plenty robust and probably best suited to what you want to do for now and in the future with automation. And you don't have to worry about power to the frog that can cause a short circuit. Even if you don't use the LGB turnouts, if you can adapt the turnout motor to whatever you choose that's probably the easiest way to automate. Plus, with proper wiring and the use of a few diodes, you can control them from as many different toggle switches as you like, even in multiple groups. My LGB turnout motors have been living outside since 1997 with very few failures and none for the turnouts themselves, those the ties have turned lighter and a few have cracked.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Todd. 
Could you give me a specific part number for an LGB motor you recommend? The one I saw didn't have a manual op lever, maybe the one you are thinking of does? 
Cliff


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By CliffyJ on 06 Oct 2010 07:07 AM 
Thanks Todd. 
Could you give me a specific part number for an LGB motor you recommend? The one I saw didn't have a manual op lever, maybe the one you are thinking of does? 
Cliff 

LGB 1201 (or 12010). No manual ops lever on these. If you want to do these manually, just push them over by hand and they'll stay. But, it is very simple to run a 16 vac wire to them and use a toggle or push button switch to control them right at the turnout or from anywhere else you please.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Part of the answer to your question depends upon where you live. 

The LGB 12010 switch motors worked very well for me when I had my GR in Denver. The magnet in the mechanism rusted fairly quickly when I put them outside here in the moist climate of northern Virginia. I have converted to all manual throws now.

Most engines (diesel and electric) and cars will throw the LGB switch when coming into the switch from the two track side. I have found that pilot trucks on Aristocraft and Accucraft steam engines will derail and not throw the switch until the drivers pass through. There is enough pressure on the pilot trucks on LGB steamers that they will throw the switch without any problems. It may also have to do with the larger flanges on the LGB wheels.


Chuck N


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Sorry for the belated reply Chuck, and thanks for the insights. 

I live just above you, in MD.

Axel (of Train Li) lives north of both of us, and swears by the Proline switch machines. And they really do look robust. But, they have to be thrown properly: they won't work like LGB's, as you describe. However, as Axel has kindly explained to me, reed switches will do the job.

That said, you've convinced me to go either Proline or all manual throws. 

Cliff


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