# Building a 15-ton Class A Climax, continued



## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Here’s my first update for 2008. The initial builder’s log can be found in the MLS archives.
 
As seen in an earlier message (archive page 6), the wheel castings have a large sprue to remove. 








 
Using my portable bench vice, I had good luck with using a jeweler’s saw and bench grinder to get rid of most of the sprue material.
I cleaned up all 18 wheel castings required by the Locomotive and trailing car before going on to the lathe for final machining. 

 
As I posted earlier I decided to use a simplified process to do the machining, here’s the first step:

 I held the wheels by their tread in a 3-jaw chuck and cleaned up the backside surfaces of the wheel where the sprue used to be. The backside’s center hub was faced-off and trued-up to its diameter of .5165”.
 







 
More later!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Good job on the wheels, looks like a lot of work. Glad to see your log continuing.


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Howard, 
I’ve been following your post from the beginning and thoroughly enjoying them. Have you considered taking all of the old post that are archived and putting them together in the new “Builders Log” section of MLS? I have just finished doing this with my posts and it’s a simple matter of cutting and pasting. All the photos transfer without any special code work. 
Keep up the good work. 
Joel


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Joel, I agree once you figure out the process it is really quite easy. I did mine by calling up the archive in a seperate window the just went back and forth copying and pasting from the old to the new. I eliminated the chit chat and did some editing to make it a little more readable. The whole thing including the learning process took about 6 or 7 hours, with 3 or 4 of those being the learning curve for the new format. I do kind of like the old system with the running comments, but the builder's log makes for easier reading for someone who is not interested in al the chit chat.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Howard:  Very nice wheel turning there.  That Sherline looks like a very capable machine for Ga 1 work.  Castings can be tricky to turn sometimes, but it look like you have it "dialed in"

Bob


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Joel, I haven't looked into how to use the new builder's log feature yet, but on the surface it looks easy enough.   And thanks for your encouragement.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

WInn....it's taken a lot longer to do the machining than I anticipated.  I've taken the advice of you and others to heart....take it slowly and carefully. As a result, I haven't made any scrap yet.   If I ruin one of these wheel castings, I can't get a replacement unless I order a minimum of 10 wheel sets; enough to justify the casting run. Soooo, I'll just take it slowly.
Appreciate your inputs.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob....I'm really satisfied with the Sherline products and their service.  These castings appear to be 1st quality, so I shouldn't have any major alignment problems with the setup.  Thanks for your nice comments.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

When I finally get around to the boiler building, I’m going to need a way to do the hydrostatic testing, so I picked up a bronze casting for a boiler feed pump. This pump reportedly can give me up to 400psi. This is part of a kit from A&K Enterprises, known as A&K Railways on eBay. Additionally, the kit included a full sized drawing, O-rings, check valve balls, gaskets, clevis pins and all the metals needed to machine the other parts. Under $25 and made in the USA, too boot.









More later!!


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

I recently received an email from an ex-owner of a Keith Mannison-built Class A Climax locomotive, which he now regrets selling.  He's considering building a new Climax locomotive.  Anyway, he has forwarded some pictures of the locomotive and I thought I’d share them.  It was one of Keith Mannison's locomotives that spurred me on in buliding my Class A.





















 

Nice..thanks and welcome to MLS.   I always like to see pictures showing the details...helps a lot!!


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

It has been awhile since I updated this builder's log. I've been spending a good amount of time designing and acquiring parts for adding Digital Readouts (DRO) to my Lathe and Mill. 
I decided back in February to get input from other MLS members of the making of my own lubricator, even though I had already procured a Roundhouse lubricator. With the increased fuel carrying capacity and boiler water level detection, I envisioned that the steam oil capacity may now become the limiting factor to long runs. SO, I set out to design (with lots of help from others here on MLS) a metered deadleg lubricator, with a drain....one where I could see the oil usage and be able to readily increase its oil storage capcity, if needed. Here's a link to the Deadleg Lubricator thread: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/postid/10398/view/topic/Default.aspx and for the purpose of this builder's log I'm also posting the drawing of the lubricator here.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, after about 5 months of putting this project on the back burner while I built a steam powered Model-T Rail Truck, http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/postid/27647/view/topic/Default.aspx 
I’m finally getting started again. 
I’ve done some rethinking about my original plans. They originally called for a trailing car that would carry the locomotive’s only gas supply. It was also to carry an auxiliary water supply to be pumped into the boiler via a WLDS and pump. Instead of having to finish the trailing car before getting the locomotive running & on the tracks, I will be making the locomotive self-sufficient by adding an on board gas tank placed in the fake water bunker. Since I will eventually finish the trailing car, the source for fuel will be controlled by a set of valves (manifold) that will direct the fuel to the boiler’s burner from either the trailing car or the on-board gas tank. This requires the design and building of 2 on/off gas valves, a small manifold and the moving of Kevin O’Connor’s butane gas control valve from the trailing car to the locomotive itself. 
Secondly, a valve controlled steam takeoff will be added to the boiler for the possible heating of the water surrounding either of the gas canisters and the steam valves manifold, if needed. 
My first actions are to bring the existing designs up to my current thinking along with a new design for the on board gas canister enclosure, the gas valves manifold and the steam dryer assembly. 
Here’s a sketch of the gas canister’s on board enclosure with the placement of the gas valves manifold: 








Here’s my working drawing of the gas valves manifold: 








And finally, the steam dryer assembly. As suggested in an earlier message by Harry Wade, the dryer assembly needs to be easily replaced. He also suggested 
“In order to get the tube out of the firebox, is to make a core drilled bronze (or brass) header block, so that the Stainless dryer coil ends goes directly into the block without bends and the exterior side of the block has your two exterior connection points”. This should avoid making abrupt hairpin bends in the tubing. To this end, I will be machining a brass header to accept the stainless steel tube ring to fit just inside the firebox adjacent to the burner’s flame and the appropriated fittings necessary for easy removal & replacement. Here’s my drawing: 








This will require silver brazing stainless tube into the brass header. So, if anyone has any suggestions on the techniques for brazing stainless to brass will be appreciated. 
So, while I’m waiting for the order I placed for supplies/metals I need for the above, I will make some more progress on the bogie frames, the axles, the drive line/universal joints, then machining of the wheels. 
Once the universal joint parts were removed from the casting sprues, some additional cleanup cutting & filing was required. Then the barrel was turned down, chucking up on the barrel’s sprue, to fit the inside diameter of the rings. Then that sprue was parted off. The newly turned barrel was chucked up and a 1/8” hole was drilled & reamed through the center of the barrel to fit the final driveline. A hole was drilled & tapped through the side of the barrel for set screw to secure the barrel to the driveline. 
















The universal takes the 2 sets joined together with a short piece of square brass channel slid over the square shanks. Here I’m showing one side of the universal assembled and the other side ready to assemble. 








Each of the Locomotive’s 2 bogies have 2 shaft hanger castings through which the 1/8” driveline and 3/16” axle passes and is designed to keep the 2 gears (a 40 toothed spiral beveled crown wheel & a 20 tooth pinion) in 90 degree alignment. The shaft hanger’s hole for the axle is reamed to .1890” for a running fit, while the driveline hole was reamed to .1285”, also for a running fit. 
On each 2 1/2” x 3/16” dia. axle, a keeper bushing was machined from brass rod to keep the shaft hanger in alignment (½” OD x ¼” wide with a 3/16” hole for the axle.) The keeper bush will has a set screw for securing it to the axle. 








The axle length turned out to be very critical. In the design of the bogie, there’s no easy way to assemble the side frames with the upper pivot bolster in place along with the axles, consequently at the point in the assembly process where the axle & wheel assembly is placed in the journals, little or no play is available for the axles to slip into the journals. The 2 ½” axle is just 1/64” wider than the space between the journals. With the spring bolster, springs & bogie end stretchers (brake beams) removed, it still takes considerable twist exerted on the remaining bogie frame parts to allow the axles to pop into place.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Some good looking trucks! 

Did you machine the gears or were they bought machined. Dont remember seeing anything on them before.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Kovacjr on 09/15/2008 6:29 PM 
Some good looking trucks! 
Did you machine the gears or were they bought machined. Dont remember seeing anything on them before.

Thanks Jason. Gears are still way beyond my skill level, but I have visions of making some someday. I got these from DJB Engineering out of David Bailey's remaining stock of parts for his Class A Climax Locomotive kit production. His kits were available starting in about 2000 and there are about 80 of his locomotives running. His castings are 1st quality as you can see by the pictures.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Howard!! Nice to see you getting back to it.  I fully understand burnout! hehehe


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## David BaileyK27 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been asked for more truck castings including the gears, so I will be making a further run, please let me know if you are interested so I can make up a decent quantity for the caster. 
David Bailey www.djbengineering.co.uk


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David BaileyK27 on 09/16/2008 1:48 AM
I have been asked for more truck castings including the gears, so I will be making a further run, please let me know if you are interested so I can make up a decent quantity for the caster. 
David Bailey www.djbengineering.co.uk



Hi David....nice hearing from you. As a matter of fact, I am interested in 2 more of your bogies, since I will be building a trailing car. I already have enough of you wheel castings. 
I'm assuming that'll include the following:? 
CL001 Bogie Sideframes 
CL002 Top Bolster 
CL003 Bottom Bolster 
Pivot Bolster 
CL005 Brake Beams 45mm 
CL006 Crown Wheel (machined) 
CL006A Pinion (machined) 
CL007 Cross Drive bearing (machined)


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

With the exception of finishing the machining on the wheels, the bogies are done & mounted on the frame. I’ll still have some adjustments to make the gears mesh properly. I've been having some problems getting them to work smoothly. 

Here’s the pivot bolsters as finished back in Nov. 2007: 








A ¼” hole was drilled through the frame stretcher to accept the pivot bolster’s post. The bolster’s 2 attachment holes were threaded with a 6-32 tap. Brass bolts were used to secure the pivot bolster using the holes drilled through the oak stretcher. 









And the assembly: 

















I haven't decided on whether I'll chemically blacken the frames or paint them. Whaddyall think???


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Blacken is good.....leaves a good patina and wears well. Although the brass can come through with heavy wear. 

Looks real good Howard


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Howard: Good to see you back on the air with the Climax. It is really tempting to build one of these based on your work and observations. 

Those bronze castings look like they machine very well. 

I would chemically blacken the frames. There appears to be a lot of nice texture on those parts that paint would fill over. Kind of an artist's view. 

Thanks, Bob 

(edited, can't seem to spell tonight)


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## Ed Hume (Jan 3, 2008)

Howard, 

When soldering stainless steel to brass, use higher temperature black flux. Also, after cleaning and just before soldering, go ahead and dip the stainless in your sulphuric acid pickling bath (and rinse off with water). The pickling acid dip will cause a little copper to plate out which will help the solder wet and flow. High cadmium silver solder spreads and wets better than non-cadmium solder.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Ed Hume on 09/22/2008 9:09 PM
Howard, 
When soldering stainless steel to brass, use higher temperature black flux. Also, after cleaning and just before soldering, go ahead and dip the stainless in your sulphuric acid pickling bath (and rinse off with water). The pickling acid dip will cause a little copper to plate out which will help the solder wet and flow. High cadmium silver solder spreads and wets better than non-cadmium solder. 



Ed, thank you for the inputs on soldering stainless. I’ve never prepared surfaces for soldering beyond a thorough cleaning and fluxing. This really helps. 

I found an eBay source for Hi-temp Black Flux this morning. 

Ed, here’s what I’ve been reading about pickling solutions: 
5% or 10% sulphuric acid to water is a suggested pickle formula. What formula do you suggest?. 

I’m wondering if I can find Sulphuric acid at an Automotive Store, since it’s battery acid? 

As an alternative...Ed, have you used either of these products? 
Sparex #1 is a commercial product that has Sodium Bisulphate as its main ingredient. If I have read correctly, Sodium Bisulphate is sulfuric acid that is half-neutralized so it is safer to use and less aggressive. The half neutralizing also buffers it so it is less quick to deteriorate with use. 

PhPlus, the swimming pool product also has the same active ingredient as Sparex #1 

Again, thanks for your valuable inputs.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Blackened frames it is!!! 
Thanks Jason and Bob.


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## Ed Hume (Jan 3, 2008)

Howard, 

Sulphuric acid is more plentiful than you might guess. In the past I have bought a small bottle from Sears Automotive. They don't want to sell it you directly - you need to tell them something like you have a motorcycle battery that needs topping. If you find battery acid, it is usually around 20% so, "do what you ought'a, add acid to watawh - cut it in half. You may also find concentrated sulphuric acid at your local Ace hardware being sold for drain cleaner - I got a gallon that way. Look for the bottles that come in an extra poly bag with those jolly roger labels. Once you have it, you can keep it in a plastic tub or plastic container - the ones that seal are nice - I saw some perfect ones at Office Depot. 

I have not used Sparex, but yes it should work fine, but a little slower, and a little more expensive, and yes, safer. My comments about copper plating out relate to a used bath. As you clean scale from copper and brass, the solution turns bluish from dissolved copper sulphate. If steel or iron is put in the bath, copper will plate out on the steel. The rate of plating for stainless steel is so much slower, that this is a useful test for stainless vs ordinary steel. With stainless, even though you may not see it, copper is getting deposited, and this is the reason the second attempt for soldering always works well - the pickling and plating really prepare the surface. Pickling the joint for 4-8 minutes is typical. Less if it starts out hot, but don't put it in the bath until it will not cause boiling. Before I had an IR thermometer, I would touch the metal with a wet toothpick to see if it was above boiling. 

A pickling bath cleans the black cupric oxide (scale), but not the reddish cuprous oxide that forms at lower temperatures. However, scrubbing lightly with a brass brush under running water will easily remove the cuprous oxide. You can mix baths that have hydrogen peroxide which will oxidize and remove the cuprous oxide, but I do not recommend the casual user go down that path. 

I do not recommend you use any form of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid). It will pickle the joint, but having chlorides around stainless or your shop is not a good thing. 

Needless to say, wear eye covering. I get away with using tongs instead of wearing gloves. Have some means of rinsing off in a hurry if you have an accident. Also, have some baking soda handy to neutralize and clean up any spills.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

I ran a ceramic burner test today (2 1/8” diameter burner with a #10 jet from Forrest Classics) and can’t get that classic, short, uniform blue tipped flame across the entire ceramic surface, like I have seen with other ceramic burners. I adjusted the placement of the jet in its holder but get nothing but a lazy, yellow flame no matter how much air is being introduced around the jet. With the gas valve turned way down I can get close, where the ceramic disk starts to glow. 
To me, the jet size seems way too large, but that’s what came with the burner. I see that Forrest Classics also has #5, 8 & 16 sized jets to fit my jet holder. Any ideas?


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## steveciambrone (Jan 2, 2008)

I would try a smaller gas jet, my experiance is the radiant burners like more air. 

Thanks 
Steve


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## David BaileyK27 (Jan 2, 2008)

I used No 6 jets in the kits I supplied, does the mixing tube go right acros the burner base? it needs to to mix the gas and air and deflect it round the ceramic block.
David Bailey www.djbengineering.co.uk


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David BaileyK27 on 09/28/2008 1:31 AM
I used No 6 jets in the kits I supplied, does the mixing tube go right acros the burner base? it needs to to mix the gas and air and deflect it round the ceramic block.
David Bailey http://www.djbengineering.co.uk/



David, thanks for the input. I’m not sure I understand significance of the “burner tube going across the base” statement.

In the BIX001 burner I have, the jet holder/mixing tube attaches to the side of the burner housing, it does not extend beyond the side. 
Here’s the burner drawing:





















Just inside the side of the burner housing, where the mixing tube is attached, there is a piece of square mesh with about .0625” openings. I would guess that the mesh is the diverter in this ceramic burner. 
Last night I was able to get a nicely glowing ceramic with the classic little round blue flames coming through the ceramic’s holes by moving the face of the jet back so that its face was right at the 2 side air hole openings, giving the max amount of air to the mixing tube. Shown below in a fuzzy picture:














I still had some flame reaching 1½” above the ceramic surface, peaking at the center point. But with the design of this boiler, the flame will go directly into the flue. Here's a short video: 


Last night I ordered a #5 jet and will rerun this test when I get it.


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## David BaileyK27 (Jan 2, 2008)

In our burners the mixzing tube goes right across the tray to within 1/8" of the other face, this "swirls" the gas around and helps to distribute it evenly under the ceramic, the boiler base is then about 1/4" above the burner so that the flame plays on the base as well as going up the flue.
Hope this helps


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By maculsay on 09/15/2008 1:53 PM
I will be making the locomotive self-sufficient by adding an on board gas tank placed in the fake water bunker. Since I will eventually finish the trailing car, the source for fuel will be controlled by a set of valves (manifold) that will direct the fuel to the boiler’s burner from either the trailing car or the on-board gas tank. This requires the design and building of 2 on/off gas valves, a small manifold and the moving of Kevin O’Connor’s butane gas control valve from the trailing car to the locomotive itself. 
Secondly, a valve controlled steam takeoff will be added to the boiler for the possible heating of the water surrounding either of the gas canisters and the steam valves manifold, if needed. 

Here’s my working drawing of the gas valves manifold: 










One of the tools I need for making the valves mentioned above is a knurling tool for my Sherline lathe. Instead of $pending $$ to buy one, I set out to find some plans to make the tool from scratch. I decided on a plan by Tracy Adkins that I found over on one of the SherlineCNC Yahoo Groups, (see file "A Better Knurling Tool"). By the way to see the file, you have to be a member of the group.

Having finished the tool with some updates of my own (see my file "Knurling Tool Updated"), I’m posting only the picture of the finished tool here in this message thread. If anyone is interested in my posting the details and pictures in our “Tools” forum, just let me know.

By the way, the knurled knob used on the tool was made by the tool.


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## Ed Hume (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice job on the knurling tool Howard. The knurled knob on the tool itself really looks professional.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Howard: Looking real nice. She's going to be a champ on the rails.

Bob


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