# Powering my Railroad



## thequietdutchman (Jun 30, 2014)

Hey, okay so i only used to have this 1amp starter controller for my trains. It was made by LGB but it doesnt give me enough power to run the USA Trains Big boy / bachmann trains at once. Now i am wondering what do i need to run my trains?

What controller do i need to get 5 amps, i think the big boy needs 10amp but lgb only offers max 5 amps.

I was looking here: http://21032-1061.popunder.loading-delivery2.com

Anyone else have some ideas how i can properly run them?


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Bridgewerks are often recommended for a analog DC throttle. The have a wide range of throttles available, one track, two track, and 4 track. They are made in the USA, have a good warranty, and are pricey. MRC has several that would serve the purpose also.

http://www.reindeerpass.com/power_supplies.aspx


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Also recommend Bridgewerks transformers, or make the jump to the dead rail society an go with onboard battery RC and no longer worry about how clean the rails are. Both Airwire, RCS and Crest Revolution make nice onboard RC. My old Ariso Alco FA1 runs about 4-5hours on a charge and thats just using a 7.2vt RC car battery, 5500mah NiMH. I can recharge in about 30 min if I want to run again. Mike


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

MRC 10 amp Power G is good value for the money, much cheaper than Bridgewerks, I have one.

Greg

p.s. He asked about a transformer, not if he should switch to battery.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB made the Jumbo which is rated at 10 amps and has a lot of features.
For $$ vs performance, MRC at 10 amp is what I would pick.


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## thequietdutchman (Jun 30, 2014)

Dan Pierce said:


> LGB made the Jumbo which is rated at 10 amps and has a lot of features.
> For $$ vs performance, MRC at 10 amp is what I would pick.


I might go for that LGB 50100, looks good to me.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

If getting the Jumbo, there is a tethered remote for it.


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## Wizard69 (Feb 4, 2016)

I'm a bit new to railroading but I really have an adversion to track power! Mainly because it just seems to add excessive complications and in some cases I actually think that it forces layouts that are simpler than maybe they would be without all of the electrical complexity. This isn't a question of not understanding electrical systems because that is my day job as an automation tech. For me it is rather realizing that there are alternatives today that are very capable. 

Here I'm talking battery power and RF control. Going this route greatly simplifies track installation and layout control. There are always downsides to alternative approaches so I'm not saying battery power is perfect just that it removes a bunch of headaches for the layout.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

I'm running an MRC 9500 series Tech 3 at 10+ amps, found it at the local hobby shop last year for around $100, has momentum and braking


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ummm.... if you are running a MRC9500 at 10 amps, then it must be on fire!

It's 30va, and around 3 amps on a good day... the ammeter on it only goes to 3 amps.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/resources/dc-ac/Tech 3 9500 AG950.pdf

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

(moderator hat on)

Wizard69, first-off, welcome to MLS. You're new here, so I'll fill you in on a little history of which you may not be aware. The "track vs. battery" debate in large scale borders--to put it mildly--on the Hatfields and McCoys. I don't know that lives have been lost as a result, but I think that's only because it's as yet impossible to reach through the computer screen to strangle someone. 

In a thread relating to deciding which power supply is best, a post stating "try battery power" is akin to throwing gasoline on a fire in the view of various forum members, and is really best to be avoided. We certainly welcome you and your participation; just be aware that your comments--however well-intentioned--may come off as inflammatory. I wouldn't ever go so far as to say not to post alternative solutions to a problem, but I would recommend looking at the general scope and tone of the discussion and gauging whether your alternative is something that may fit the requirements of the original poster.

Later,

K


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I asked Santa for a couple of Meanwell regulated power supplies, rated at 24v and 15amps. They were under the tree Christmas morning. Santa found them at Amazon at about $45.00 each.

I'm using them with the Bridgewerks remote controllers, UR-15. I'm a very happy camper. The only downside is that there was no directions or literature in the box. There is no power cable included. A symbol showed where the ground was to be attached and since it was for the AC input, I just attached the other two wires in the cable to the the other two posts, N and L. No smoke or sparks!

It does not have an on/off switch, so I've plugged it into an power strip with an on/off switch. I have one set, Bridgewerks and Meanwell, in Virginia and brought the other out to Arizona. 

I've been running my LGB Uintah Mallet with it and it stays cool. It has a fan for cooling, but it must be a thermal fan, I hope, because it hasn't come on yet.

Chuck

PS in regards to Kevin's well stated comment. I use both battery and track power. On my home layouts I prefer track power, but I have some locomotives that run on battery and a couple that can handle either. That is so that I can run on layouts without track power.

When I return to Virginia, I'll have a new, to me, live steam Climax. FYI, live steam versus electrons can be another live wire issue. This will b my first expedition into the burnt tie and fingers side of the hobby. So I will have all the bases covered except DCC.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Ummm.... if you are running a MRC9500 at 10 amps, then it must be on fire!
> 
> It's 30va, and around 3 amps on a good day... the ammeter on it only goes to 3 amps.
> 
> ...


 Really?, I'm sure I read in the owners book, that it was 10 amp. Just for the heck of it, I wanted to see if I could run more than 1 engine, so I ran 2 Macks, a Bachmann 10 wheeler, and a USA Trains S-4, and they all ran without a strain on the transformer.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you look at the link I posted? It is the MRC owners manual, it clearly states 30va. It is from the MRC web site. Cannot get more definitive than that.

Perhaps you have a different model, like the 9950?

And if you think you have 10 amps after all that, what does the meter show on your unit? 


Greg


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Did you look at the link I posted? It is the MRC owners manual, it clearly states 30va. It is from the MRC web site. Cannot get more definitive than that.
> 
> Perhaps you have a different model, like the 9950?
> 
> ...


 I did not look at the link yesterday, but I did today, and it's clearly there.

Next time I head out to the garage, I will check the meter.

I'm illiterate when it comes to electricity, everything I do is trial and error, and since I'm working with DC voltage, it shouldn't be that hazardous, or so I believe, which is probably not good. And, you can bet when there's an electrical problem at the house, I call an electrician for AC issues.

I apologize for derailing the OP's thread, but what is the difference between an Amp and a Voltamp?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Please start a new thread... don't derail the thread for something that will take a number of posts to educate/explain. I'll find your new thread and explain.

Greg


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## Wizard69 (Feb 4, 2016)

East Broad Top said:


> (moderator hat on)
> 
> Wizard69, first-off, welcome to MLS. You're new here, so I'll fill you in on a little history of which you may not be aware. The "track vs. battery" debate in large scale borders--to put it mildly--on the Hatfields and McCoys. I don't know that lives have been lost as a result, but I think that's only because it's as yet impossible to reach through the computer screen to strangle someone.


I will take note of that.


> In a thread relating to deciding which power supply is best, a post stating "try battery power" is akin to throwing gasoline on a fire in the view of various forum members, and is really best to be avoided.


The only problem I have with this is that a battery is a form of a power supply. 


> We certainly welcome you and your participation; just be aware that your comments--however well-intentioned--may come off as inflammatory. I wouldn't ever go so far as to say not to post alternative solutions to a problem, but I would recommend looking at the general scope and tone of the discussion and gauging whether your alternative is something that may fit the requirements of the original poster.
> 
> Later,
> 
> K


While the above makes sense if you actually believe the comment fits the scope of the discussion then where does the problem lay. In this context the question was about powering a railroad not so much the track. At last that is what the title of the thread is. At least I wasn't way out there suggesting a gasoline powered generator set. In other words at the time my post seemed to fit the question asked.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, he is a moderator, so why should you believe him or anyone else?

Nice start.


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## mjll1958 (Jan 2, 2016)

*USA trains 10 Amp*

I just bought a pair of USA 10 AMP transformers which work much better than the MRC 9500 I had. Also the wires just clip in and don't use that poorly constructed green connector which you have to bolt on. I am running 5 heavyweight USA passenger cars using 3 diesel locos. 2 are Aristo FA1s and 1 USA diesel.


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