# Hardietrim for roadbed



## JE21 (Apr 25, 2009)

Has anyone used the Hardietrim http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_trim_hardietrim.py for roadbed? I have a friend that can get it at a really good price and was considering using it.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

I don't see why it could not be used. Since it is a rigid piece of material, it may take alittle more effort to prepare the sub-base for it to rest on.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

If it is made out of cement, not sure how it would bend for curves.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

I see that Hardietrim is made in widths up to 12". If you can cut curves, or just use straight sections of it and cut the ends on the correct angle for the curve, you should be successful.


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## JE21 (Apr 25, 2009)

Thanks for the input guys. My thought was to cut it for curves, it will be alot of cuts but hey I've got a table saw =). I am thinking of setting it on gravel for drainage. I am going to try some cuts and if it works I'll post some pics; if not I'll try something else.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

1. Buy cheap carbide blades at Harbour Freight as they will dull fast on that stuff. 
2. Wear a dust mask! Silicosis is not a nice condition. 
3. they do sell 4x8 sheets of Hardisiding as an alternative for curves 
Good luck and have fun. The dust will be memorable!


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## Dennis Cherry (Feb 16, 2008)

I hope your table saw is a cheap one that you can throw away. Table saws are not built for cement and silicon dust.


Use the hand held shears designed to cut the Hardie board, no dust using the shears.


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

I have $400 worth of 3" and 4" Hardietrim and because of the equipment and health hazards I will not be using it. If you are near the Metro atlanta area and would like a great deal on it let me know.


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## astrayelmgod (Jan 2, 2008)

According to their web site, you aren't supposed to let that stuff touch the ground, and it is to be protected from saturation. Doesn't seem like it would make very good roadbed.


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## imrnjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had harditrim down as roadbed for 3 years now and have not had any problems.







I chose it because of a varmint/deer issue.

I used 6"wide cut to required angles on the curves and 4" on the straights with a 1" PVC post driven in to the ground every 3 feet or so(28" to 40") for support. These were attached via a 2x4 block drilled with a forschner bit that was matched to the predrilled holes in the board and mounted to the Harditrim with screws specifically for Hardi Board. I used a dry segmented diamond 4 1/2" blade in an angle grinder to do the cuts and a dewalt 1 1/8 diamond hole saw to cut the post holes. The cement just destroys regular bimetal holesaw bitsand saw blades. I tied the strips together with 1x4 PTL cut about 7". I screwed the tie strips down with 1" drywall screws about every 4 feet and put several in the switches. 

I have had no issues with movement and very little releveling to do. Where I have had a significant releveling issue it has been due to me tripping on the trackor dropping a large rock or something like that.









good luck with your railway!

Mark


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

Mark, do you have pics of this?

tom h


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## imrnjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are a few of the construction pictures I have. While I took lots of pictures during the build I really didn't take many of the roadbed construction.










A starting point with track laid out for estimating the angle cuts for the curves....










As you can probably see here I was setting grades with the height of the roadbed and back filling to make it look good










This is probably the best picture that shows the construction. The fairly wide gap under the engine is in process of being replaced with an eagle wings bridge, and where the the hoe sits is now a pond.










here you can see a post block and a tie block as I start to back fill to create another planting area on the right and a creek to the left of the track.










This one shows an area I've gotten nearly complete and one yet to be back filled and rock mulched.









Hope this helps. Good luck on what ever method you chose...... and if I could type and spell I wouldn't have to edit the reply 5 or 6 times.









Mark


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

keep in mind which part of the country your in. I used hardie board , primed and painted and it later delamitated.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Have use the hardie board now for two years to support maain street building and no problem so far. Will be considering using for my staging yard which will be elevated. Use a cement blade in my skill saw to cut works fine. Later RJD


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