# Dcc in usatrains loco



## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2014)

Hi,is it any basic wiring scheme for the usatrains locos?I got f3,gp7,sd-2 and a sd70 that i wont to put in a dcc digitrax decoder in.



Øyvind


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

When I do these engines, I remove all the USA trains electronics and drive all the lights and smoke from a Zimo sound decoder.
ZImo has outputs that read the back EMF and can control the heater elements and fans in the USA smoke units. ANd light control is awesome.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Dan 100% on this one--I'd pull out all the existing electronics and start over. I used a Zimo 695kv in my SD40-2(w) conversion and it worked out very well. I'm not familiar with the Digitrax decoders but if you are determined to use it just make sure it can handle the high current of these USA locos.

Keith


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Mr Rails, Your SD-40 did come out nice but you need to increase the volume on the horn.

Boo


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There's a quick and easy way to add DCC to us trains locos without rewiring:

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips/usat-motive-power/usat-quick-a-dirty-dcc-install*

One thing not brought forward here is that USA Trains have a lighting scheme and wiring that is all but impossible to adapt to DCC unless you want to rewire the lighting boards. Also, important to consider is how to handle the 2 pin bicolor classification lights.

It can be done, but it takes a lot of work so consider my quick and dirty method that takes NO soldering.

Greg


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## qora01m (Jun 12, 2013)

I totally agree with the Zimo advice. It's not quick, it needs soldering, but it's way ahead of the Digitrax. Once you have seen the smoke coming out of the stack according to power applied by the engine and same with sound you will never use anything else. The decoder is more expensive but likewise includes the Phoenix sound already. I converted all my engines with Zimo and always pulled outall existing wiring an replaced it with my own one. Takes some hours but is more than worth the effort. You can have at look at youtube. "qora01m" is my channel...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Zimo is nice, have several, programming software is not great, programmer expensive, sound files limited.

ESU, Massoth, and QSI all have ability to drive smoke unit heater and fan.

Lots of options.






Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I changed the bi-color leds to common anode and use brighter ones.
Also I used brighter leds for the headlights.
And I did rewire the boards, results are very impresssive.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

> Mr Rails, Your SD-40 did come out nice but you need to increase the volume on the horn.


Duly noted Boo, thanks!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Since the OP asked for basic wiring diagrams, my reasoning to suggest the quick and dirty was that the vagaries and complexities of USAT wiring would not have to be tackled.

I rewire my boards, and keep the number board lights, modify the circuit boards and go common anode diodes for my class lights too, but everyone I talk to that wants to do it themselves says it's too much work.

The TrainTech replacement light boards are a simple solution, but you pay for the new motherboard and lighting boards.

Greg


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## [email protected] (Mar 28, 2014)

Thanx :-D


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

The down and dirty method is quite simple and many will be happy with the operation. To change out lights and completely rewire the entire loco is a much larger job. It is a matter of how much work you want to do and if more lighting control is wanted.


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

Treeman said:


> The down and dirty method is quite simple and many will be happy with the operation. To change out lights and completely rewire the entire loco is a much larger job. It is a matter of how much work you want to do and if more lighting control is wanted.


I agree with you and Greg. I have done installations both ways, down and dirty and rewire completely and have been happy with the down and dirty. Sometimes, you can easily cut off the headlight wires, and/or cab lights from the light boards and wire them into the appropriate decoder outputs. Then you have a hybrid of both types of installation. You can turn the headlight on/off, but the bi-color LED will operate as the factory intended.


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## beavercreek (Dec 12, 2008)

Greg, I have looked at your 'Down and dirty' section on your website and it is a really good explanation of how to achieve a quick DCC USAT loco. BUT on all of my browsers, there seems to be some of the text cut off at the end.

It is this section...
"If the loco runs backwards, then remove that connector that goes to the original USAT circuit board and plug it into the other "free" connector. (again since the motor blocks...............


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Beavercreek, you need to read my HOME page and where it says ATTENTION in RED letters. The page tells you about your problem and how to navigate the site.

Greg


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## jbooker (Jan 15, 2008)

TrainTek Adapt-a-boards are the way to go being as easy as the quick & dirty method and you get prototypical lighting. Plug n play a 10amp QSI Titan and you've got plenty of power and sound. Already have sound? then use a decoder with Aristo plug such as AR model by Digitrax.

That is, unless you're into the hobby for soldering practice instead of running trains. The boards are good for battery power instead of track power too. At the very least, they're documentation is the nicest complete disassembly instructions I've found:

http://www.traintekllc.com/tech/GP7%20Adapt-A-Board%20User%20Guide%20REV-B%20Large.pdf

PS...Greg, FYI. Your page does indeed cut off some text at the end regardless of resolution.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nope, just went there, no text cut off...

http://www.elmassian.com/trains/mot...t-motive-power/usat-quick-a-dirty-dcc-install

You either have played with the hardware resolution, or your resolution is not as specified in my home page... I will double check at work, the only place that I have a computer available at my minimum resolution.

I suggest you recheck your browser zoom, your video resolution and your hardware resolution (which can be in 2 places)

On the traintek, it's nice stuff, but expensive and still does not seem to handle the class lights with DCC, but I'm waiting for confirmation on the new boards, I have a friend who just ordered several.

Also, the traintek does give up a few things, which might not be a big deal to everyone, but I do like having my lights and motor switches, which have been eliminated.

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

IF...the loco runs backwards..
..and we are talking USA locos...

Why not simply " swap " the wire leads on the motor blocks...?
Simple to pull n push wire ends for USA motors on the brass wire....

The loco now runs the opposite direction...and matches the operators input...

Yes....No....

Dirk


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You can not just reverse the USA Trains track power leads on the motor block as many motor blocks have a second wire tied directly to the pick up shoes.

I reversed the wires in the connector inside the engine and choose to do the connector not tied to the block so that the block could be replaced in the future without causing a problem.


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Nope, just went there, no text cut off...
> 
> http://www.elmassian.com/trains/mot...t-motive-power/usat-quick-a-dirty-dcc-install
> 
> ...





beavercreek said:


> It is this section...
> "If the loco runs backwards, then remove that connector that goes to the original USAT circuit board and plug it into the other "free" connector. (again since the motor blocks


Hey Greg,

Not trying to gang up on you  but the last sentence (quoted above) doesn't seem to finish. I even looked at the HTML source code, and it's the same. Seems to end mid-thought.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Sorry Greg, but it's half a parentheses 
Below I see you are powered by j.....
the text stops, not the page, not resolution.
Maybe you see your file....
8.1 with firefox.
John


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,

I just went to your site and I don't see the problem being discussed. My resolution is 1280 by 960, using Google Chrome. No problems here with your site.


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan, as Dirk said, you reverse the motor leads, not the pick up leads.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mike you are right... it did end mid-thought... I was intending to complete that part and then start the TrainTek section.

Take a look now, I re-wrote several parts, organized it a bit better, added the beginning of the TrainTek section, oh, and I fixed the incomplete sentence 

http://www.elmassian.com/trains/mot...t-motive-power/usat-quick-a-dirty-dcc-install

Regards, Greg


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

Yes, much better now.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

We aim to please!

Greg


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