# Train Shed materials question



## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

I will be building a train shed shortly and could use some advice since I've never built anything made of wood that needs to stay outside. 

Temperatures will range from 100 and 5 degrees (115 to -15 at the extreme Utah climate)

Trips to local hardware stores have given me three ideas. Cement board (Hardie board), Fir plywood siding, and plywood.

The shed will be 27' feet long, 21" wide (3 tracks) and 3' tall on the "opening" side and 4' tall against the house (so a 12/12 angled pitch roof)

I'm going for a white trim, red siding barn look with asphalt shingles on top.

In concept it will be like a very wide bookshelf with padlocked doors that open along the front. Box stick frame, made of 2x2's with 4x8 sheets cut down of one of those three products attached to the outside of the minimal box frame.

I would like the shed to be fairly secure in case kids hop the fence and try to break into it. It will also be connected to the home security so if someone tries to get in an alarm will go off before they're able to get much if anything.

I've heard that cement fiber board is very brittle when cold and it requires a masonary blade to cut. I wonder if it's a good idea to use or not.

The fir siding is only 15/32's thick at the thickest point (it's bascially 1/4" fir with 1/4" strips of fir to give the siding look). Fir appears to be long lasting and I'd paint it, both sides to help protect it more. I'm not sure how strong/secure this material is for a train shed.

Last is plywood and there's countless choices. I imagine even 1/2" of a good plywood would be very strong to prevent someone someone getting in short of a saw or crowbar. Downside is I wanted to have the 'red barn siding' look and I'd have to cut all the grooves which I can do but would be a a bit of extra work but I'd do this if it meant better protection of the cars inside.


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## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

Here is the fir product 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...53&N=5yc1vZbb0xZ1z0zwjk#/?c=1&1z0zwjk=1z0zwjk


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm planning on a train shed one day. I'm considering composite boards as anything outdoors is most likely going to need maintenance (staining or painting). But my deck (composite boards) never needs anything and its been in the blazing sun year round, similar temps as yours, for 8 years. My garden shed on the other hand is made from wood and needs staining every other year. 

I'd love to see what you build whatever material you choose


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Might want to do a little more research on that T1-11 siding before jumping in.
It has a real poor reputation around this area for holding up under the intense 
Summer sun.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Mine is made of a frame of pressure treated 2x4s, sistered together, with sides and front and back of T-111 siding, painted with exterior latex. It's held up very well here in northern virginia: I can't speak for a desert climate


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## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

Posted By R.W. Marty on 30 Jul 2012 06:29 PM 
Might want to do a little more research on that T1-11 siding before jumping in.
It has a real poor reputation around this area for holding up under the intense 
Summer sun.



What sort of problems holding up, and what state or plant zone area are you in?


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Brandon,
Northern California, 100-110 degree summers with 10-15 percent humidity.

The outer ply of the finish tends to crack and pull away from the under laminate layer.
This creates cracks through the paint, and it doesn't matter how good of paint you use, this allows the wet weather 
to penetrate the ply and compounds the problem. After a few years you can peel sections of the outer ply
right off the siding with your hands.

I will admit that I personally experienced this problem several years ago and the product may have improved 
or changed. But any of that product that has been on walls around here for a few years has problems.

Your mileage may vary 
Rick


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## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

Rick, 

That's pretty bad to be doing that, isn't the fir product for homes/sheds? I'd be furious if it could be pealed off after 30 years let along a couple...


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Dibond sign board is really good, costs more, but will last. Two layers of aluminum over a poly core. Comes in many colors, or white or brushed aluminum. Check for dealers in your area.
Dibond Sign Board


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## CHscenic (Jan 2, 2008)

Something to consider is MDO plywood. It has a plastic coating and will not crack, check. or split. The ply core is fir. It is used for outdoor signs and concrete forms. It is a bit pricey but will last a much longer outside that regular plywood. Below is a link to what HD has. DC

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/lumber...58407.html


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

That is a good choice also CH. We used it for our signs also, some are still up and 20 years old. You can get it with just the coating on one side or two. It has a paper bonded to it. Other types have a vinyl bonded to it. Just paint the edges good. One Shot sign paint still has a little lead in it and holds up well outside, pricey though. It is an oil base ename.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I was reviewing probably the best looking train shed I've ever seen, by Richard Smith, and I see where part of his he used plexiglass. Here is a PDF link, warning: VERY LARGE. The train shed starts on page 2-59:  link to PDF


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

I built my train shed out of pressure treated lumber; 2x4 and 4x4 and 1/3 pressure treated plywood. The siding is intended for external use. I used it on my storage shed that has been up for 12 years with no sign of deterioration. The train shed is about 4 years old. 
Bob


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## Brandon (Jul 6, 2011)

Lots of great info about sheds posted or linked to. 

I've done a bit of researching and thinking. Having 12 or so doors along the front that open like cabinet doors may not be very secure or weather proof. 

I came up with this new idea. It uses a lift-up roof like many of the sheds posted which will help keep the weather out better. Once the roof is up I can slide panels out (if needed) to access the trains below. All the switches, transformers, and anything I'd need to get into would be in the upper shelf, 50+ sqft of area isn't bad! 

Next if I decided to get into the shelves with trains (hopefully a rare derailment) then I can just slide a front panel up and set is aside. Since each panel is sits inside of routed grooves in 2x4's on three sides of the panel I think this would keep most anyone out, though I'll have to make sure spiders can't get in either with some weather stripping. 

Also, this shed would go along the side of the house, which is why the roof is slopped down in only one direction. 

 

 

BTW, the floor and lowest shelf would have 3 tracks wide (7" on center) so this gives me a 6 track bi-level train shed with a spare shelf in the middle for misc stuff.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

My train shed is a combination workshop/train storage room. It is 17' long, 7'wide, and has a sloped roof attached to my house. It is clad with T-11. It's got grooves in it. I put two coats of paint on each panel. It's been up for half a dozen years, and still looks like new. The train door to the lower left of the main door leads to a four-track yard


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