# Aristo Craft RS-3 Rebuild



## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

I recently purchased a new Erie Aristo-Craft RS-3 from a hobby shop for $100 bucks. The unit was never used, but did not have a box as it was a display unit for the shop. After waiting a few weeks, the unit finally arrived, completely wrapped in shipping foam, packing peanuts, etc....except for the ends. After removing the unit from the mess of packaging, I discovered 1 broken coupler on one end (long hood) and the other (short hood) had the whole end hanging on only thanks to MU wires. For starters, I was not pleased with the packaging method, but secondly, I was surprised at Aristo's poor design for mounting the pilots on the unit. 2 screws secure each pilot, but they only secure a fragile piece of it. This I could understand if the unit's pilot was separate from the coupler mount,....which it isn't







.....The coupler mounts to a extension inside the stairwells on the pilot, which with a good amount of force (such as coupling too fast or being handled incorrectly) could result in the pilot snapping away from the 2 screws and falling right off it.

After a few days, I re-epoxied the end piece, and ordered the new Kadees for the unit. The epoxy I have used before, and when cured, is like a weld. I ran the unit back and forth over a small section of straight track at low speeds. After another few days, I attached the original Aristo coupler on, and pulled/pushed 2 boxcars with it over the test track. I didn't even make it to the second push. The pilot cured right up under the locomotive and derailed it. This was at extremely slow speeds, with no jerking made when starting or stopping. So it was back to the workbench to repair the unit again. However, this time, it was both ends. Somehow the other end began to crack the same way the wrecked end did before. After finding that, the unit was placed up on a high shelf in the room and was left alone while I could get 2 new pilots. About 2 weeks past, and inpatients got the better of me. I had decided to re-epoxy the pilots on. Then, I took 1" x 1" steel angles and cut them to fit behind the pilot and below the frame. After drilling a few holes in the angle stock, and cutting it to size, I installed it on the locomotive, attaching it with long screws in the holes that held down the bodies shell to the frame, and the ones that held together the entire pilot assembly. This allowed a brace effect to be made behind the pilot, which would strengthen the pilot. This process worked out nicely. The entire pilot I had almost re-machined to make it better. In addition, I had to make new handrails for the locomotive from brass wire. Doing this, I also made the the handrails stronger, and more details (made the corrections to make the unit look like a real RS-3).


I've tested the unit several times already and the fix worked perfectly. I have actually run the unit full throttle into a cut of cars to see what would happen, and the only thing that did happen was the unit derailing the first 4 cars. The pilot didn't flex at all. The unit is now good for many years of service on the line I am planning, both of shunting, and road freight.


I wrote this to just voice how I fixed my "crunched" ends of the Aristo-Craft RS-3. Judging from the design, I am betting many others have had the same issue with the unit, which makes me wonder what other methods were used to bandage the units.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, it's a goofy way to secure things... I found the 4 screws "inside" that face towards the truck are often too short and do not engage more than a few threads... 

That loco is a very old design and it has a ton of screws... 

Glad you found a way to bulletproof it! 

Greg


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Got any pics?


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## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

I do in fact have photos of both before and after, but I will be a short period of time before I post them, as I need to upgrade to 1st class membership to post the photos. I will try to get them up ASAP


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## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

New front handrails were made to replace the non-prototypical ones supplied from Aristo-Craft. I also added chain and other details as needed.




With the unit belly up, we see the bracket behind each pilot piece. This strengths the pilots when pushing as well as pulling. They are invisible when the unit is running upright so the design works out well.



2 screws attach the bracket to the pilot, and 2 screws attach the assembly to the frame (not shown). You can leave the frame screws out, as the normal assembly of the pilot seems to hold the pilot in place, which is all that is needed since the bracket takes the load.


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## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

With the unit belly up, we see the bracket behind each pilot piece. This strengths the pilots when pushing as well as pulling. They are invisible when the unit is running upright so the design works out well. CORRECTION: strengthens


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks for those pics!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I just got up the nerve to start taking my RS-3 apart. 

Some questions:


Does anyone know how to remove the horns?


What's the easiest way to remove the lettering? (I'm planning to repaint the loco for my railroad.)


How do you get the folding platform thingies off the ends, without breaking them?

I want to put Kadee #1 gauge couplers on -- can someone tell me which style to use?


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

* The horns are glued in and the best way to remove them is to wait until you have the loco shell out, then flip the shell over and you will find the mounting stud of the horn sticking out slightly on the inside. I've always taken a small flat head screwdriver and carefully tapped the horn out using the screwdriver as a pin punch on the bottom of the stud and tap it with a pair of pliers or a cresent wrench. You could use a small tack hammer also. When doingthis I had rested the short hood on one knee and the long hood on the other while sitting down. Now if you are replacing the horn with a different one in another location, you can cut the mounting stud off of the bottom of the horn and afterwards sand the top part of the mounting stud smooth and slightly rounded. Then you can carefully re-glue it back in the hole to fill it. A little trim paint will conplete the job. As for your Kadee #1, I think for large radius curves, you'll use a Kadee #1787. I used the #787 because I like the larger Kadees. You can use many different details when "Dressing up" your RS-3. Here is a picture of one of mine I customized. Rocky*


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## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

What's the easiest way to remove the lettering? (I'm planning to repaint the loco for my railroad.) 

How do you get the folding platform thingies off the ends, without breaking them? 

I want to put Kadee #1 gauge couplers on -- can someone tell me which style to use? 

Ray, 

As for removing the foot boards used for walking between engines, you need to take off the front pilot (as I described above) and then you can easily take them off. While doing this, I advice putting a brace behind the pilots before reinstalling them back on the locomotive. Also, while the pilots are off, you may also want to install the Kadee's then. As Rocky said above, he used the the older Kadee versions, they will fit on the locomotive quite well. However, I have found that using the new more realistic Kadee #907 or #908 will also work. The #908 will work best for an easy conversion. I used the #907 on mine, but I did not use the original Aristo Craft mounts (I rebuilt the whole front remember). 

As for paint and lettering removal, I have used several methods to remove them. One included just using light sand paper to sand away the flat spots and ignoring the other hard to reach spots. I have also used brake cleaner to soften the lettering after I soaked it in the fluid, then lightly rubbed it right off. One method I advice not to do unless needed is to use a rag soaked in Mineral Spirits and carefully rub off the lettering. Rubbing too hard or for too long can result in the melting/distorting the plastic. 

As for the horns, I simple just pulled mine off when the locomotive arrived. I agree with Rocky though, if the horns will not come off easily. 

Best of Luck, 

Dave


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, have a number of pages on the RS-3.... this is the top level:

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai...inmenu-222*

Regards, Greg


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