# Bachmann On30 4-4-0 Modifications



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a photo of the first of a series of modifications I'm making to a Bachmann On30 4-4-0. My goal is to make it more representative of standard Baldwin narrow gauge 4-4-0s of the late 1800s. 


This photo shows new fluted steam and sand domes I turned in brass, and a new Precision Scale Stevens stack. I also cut off the smokebox extension.












I'll post additional photos as progress is made.


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Dwight, 

Looking good! I'll definitely be watching this thread with interest. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Kevin Miller (Jan 5, 2008)

Takes guts to chop up a new engine Dwight. But I have a feeling it's in good hands. The domes look great.


----------



## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Way to go Dwight. Those domes look really professional.
Any pics of your layout yet?
Rod


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks gents. Got the boiler painted yesterday. Like I said, I'll post more photos as progress is made (progress seems to be very sloooooooow of late). 
Any pics of your layout yet?
What layout? hehehe It's still in my head at present.


----------



## Kevin Miller (Jan 5, 2008)

What layout? hehehe It's still in my head at present. 


I know what you mean. Although I did finally get most of the track and switches I need. Now I'm working with XtrakCad trying to cram all I want onto a shelf layout. My brain thinks HO scale when I look at the track but even small O scale buildings have a large footprint.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

but even small O scale buildings have a large footprint.
Ain't THAT the truth!!


----------



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Dwight, 

How did you make the saddles for the steam and sand domes? 

Matt


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr G on 09/30/2008 2:34 PM
How did you make the saddles for the steam and sand domes? 


After turning, I chucked them up in a milling vise on the CNC milling machine, centered them to the spindle with a wiggler, and used the mill under CNC control to cut the radii.


----------



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Dwight, 

I know what a milling machine is but what is a CNC milling machine--and what does something like that cost? Would a less expensive one, say from Harbor freight work for hobby use, I am considering that something like that might be helpful, but I have never used one. 

Matt


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt - CNC stands for "Computer Numerical Control" - essentially, a computer drives stepper motors attached to each of the X-Y-Z axes following a program written in g-code. The computer can cut things with far greater precision than a human being. The radial boiler cutouts on the domes are a good example. While this could certainly be done by hand, cutting a circle/radius requires precise manipulation of both the X and Y axes simultaneously. A good machinist could do it - but I'm not a good machinist. hehehe 
Something simple like this could also be done with a hand file and some sandpaper - but my motto is "never use muscles when there's an electric motor that will do the same job." 


The rig I bought is from Sherline[/b][/b], and came with everything needed to get up and running - milling machine, accessories, computer with stepper driver and pre-loaded CNC software, stepper motors already mounted - the works. Total cost was around $3000.00. I later added a CNC lathe, also from Sherline, that uses the same computer, stepper driver, and software, so I didn't have to buy those components a second time. I used the lathe under CNC control to turn these domes.

I originally bought these tools to make #21. More details about them are contained in my NPC #21 Builders Log Pt. I[/b][/b] and Pt. II[/b][/b], especially the first couple of pages of Pt. I. As is usually the case, now that I have them, I'm finding other uses for them as well. To me, it was well worth the investment - roughly comparable to an Accucraft live steam K-28, and less than a cab forward. One only needs to buy such tools once, and if one buys good tools, they last a lifetime.

As to Harbor Freight, it wouldn't do what these tools will do. First off, Harbor Freight's is not CNC. Also, when buying machine tools such as these, precision mechanisms are all important for maintaining good work tolerances. Less expensive tools are known for sloppy fits producing large tolerances in the work being produced. Again, a good machinist can compensate for less than stellar tools and produce good work on them, but at a higher cost in man-hours and patience (not to mention knowledge and experience). Like I said, I'm not a good machinist. 

Bottom line, you get what you pay for as usual. Much depends upon what you want to do with the tool, how long you expect it to last, and what you're willing to pay. However, your initial goals will probably change as you discover more things you can do with the machine. I learned a long time ago that, for me at least, if I want to buy a power tool, to pay a little more and get a good one. I can't tell you all the tools I've had to buy again because I bought a cheap one up front.

MHO for whatever it's worth.


----------



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

YAH Dwight, you are right--I do know better. I am looking to replace my inexpensive table saw with a better one--wasted money there. 

Put one of these on my wish list--boy that list is getting long!!! 

Matt


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I am looking to replace my inexpensive table saw with a better one--wasted money there.
Been there, done that.  I recommend this one[/b][/b]. I replaced my inexpensive Skil saw with one a few years back, put a good finishing blade on it, and I couldn't be happier. The rack and pinion fence is terrific!


----------



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

I was looking at that one, and the DELTA--trying to see if I can afford the Bessymer (sp?) fence system . Always been a big fan of DELTA/Porter Cable tools. 

Matt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

I can HIGHLY reccomend the Biesemeyer fence! I've used one (unfortunately not on my own table saw) on my father's Delta saw, and found it to be accurate to within 1/64". Compared to my own 30+ year old Craftsman saw, where I must set each end of the fence separately using a tape measure, such accuracy and precision are a blessing.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

The DeWalt saw I linked to has rack and pinion gearing on EACH END of the fence. I set it parallel to the blade when I first got the saw and haven't had to fool with it since. A knob on the front allows fine movement of the fence via the gearing while setting the cut width. 

Just an FYI.


----------

