# Ruby normal steam or condensate leak spots



## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Hi all

I have a ruby with original 3/8 piston size that is having trouble pulling and seems to have several steam leak points. I took it apart because I was hearing a loud steam leak like a bad gasket and only 1 cylinder with a good exhaust blast. 

The places I have noticed the leaks are around the reversing valve, showing from the linkage end and in the cylender block. the cylinder valves where they come out of the valve body. Also the piston rod opening.

Are the steam leak points i have normal, or should I invest in the 1/2 inch cylinder upgrade?

This engine uses and spits tons of steam oil , possibly hydraulic lock from it, I still get oil spitting from the cylinders running on air 

A split ring for the dead leg lubricator will be installed when reassembling to not have the oil all over the place, but enough for good lubrication 

Currently I have the boiler off and am running it from a compressor at about 10-15 psi. It is running but not smooth at all, very jerky at different spots in both directions, so I am following the informative thread and manual on fine tuning to get a smooth runner.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds like a timing issue if its jerky. Its not hard to fix and im sure someone will help. Try this link 
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=uJYHhvKto7IuGFSxWSR1uA&bvm=bv.51495398,d.cWc 
or just google timing an Accucraft Ruby


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Thank You for the link. I got the timing set, and did the outside admission as well. 


For the steam leaks, wisps of steam escaping from around the moving parts, Are those normal, or should i get some orings and new gaskets?


I had so much steam oil come out of the cylinders when running on air, it may have had hydraulic lock and blown out a gasket from it. I will be installing a ring-dam in the lubricator to reduce the flow. 


If these symptoms are from being worn out, should i invest in the 1/2 inch cylinder upgrade?


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Im surprised no one else chimed in yet. My Forney uses a a lot of oil and can get messy with oil. This can be normal with accucraft. A summerland chuffer will help keep things cleaner. How does the Ruby run with the timing fixed? If its still not running well it could be worn cylinders. I would replace it with the larger ones especially if its been used a lot. It will run better. A little steam coming out of the cylinders should not effect it too much. I just got the Shay and steam leaks from the cylinder cap screws. 
Another thing to check is the pressure. Does the safety go off at 40psi and when its running what does the pressure stay at? Then you might want to clean the jet on the burner.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have a small cylinder Ruby which I have run a lot. I do not have too much leakage around the valves but found the rocker arms which control the motion of the valves had worn so that the valve didn't move its full throw. It turned out that the bent brass rod which threads into the valve body had a slot worn into it. the easiest fix is just to remove the "E" ring and slide the rod into the rocker arm so that an un-worn section is in the hole then re-insert the "E"ring. you could insetead solder in a peice of brass tubing to make a new larger bearing surface in the rocker arm. 

if you replace the cylinder assembly and you get new valves WITH their angled push rods then you shouldnt need to do any thing but if not, this might help.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Thank you all. 


If I remember last time I steamed it, it had trouble keeping pressure around 40 psi. The pop off valve is set around 30-40. 


I will check the valve rod for wear tonight. 


Right now when I stall the wheels, I hear air escaping through the exhaust. Is this a sign of bad gasket or two? Or should I not hear any steam escaping when stalled.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Thad sounds like the valves (or the pistons) are worn. I don't recall if there are O-rings on the pistons, they could be the culprits too. but I know that if you can swing it and do the installation, new cylinder and valve assemblies should get you going full steam ahead! the work is not terribly difficult ... just basic screw driver work, but it does require some patience.


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Sounds like the pistons need new o-rings. Not terribly difficult and can make a big difference.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Thank you both for the replies. 

where do I get new orings that will fit? Straight from accucraft or is there a better version or supplier?


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I go to my local O'ring supplier and they are able to find O'rings that match. I'm not even sure if they are metric but they work fine. They charged me $1 for a dozen of two sizes and the last batch they gave me for free. I took an engine to show them and they thought that was pretty cool! I have not had any luck getting O'rings from Accucraft.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

O rings are available in many materials, usually Silicone is what should be used for its heat and oil resistance. Plus it allows the locos to run smoother as its a more slippery material. Buna and Viton are typically what's in there but they harden from the heat over time. I stock most Oring sizes and if your ruby has a rear cylinder cover that had 2 halves then there is another Oring in there.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Thank you both. 

Kovac I will contact you to get some silicon orings. I have the single piece ends with gaskets. 

JP


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