# New Poster ( PawPaw has to put up a Train)



## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

We are located up here in Boone N.C., Grandson goes to Tweetsie RailRoad and rides the steam locomotive, Now, he wants PawPaw to buy him a Tweetsie Train and build him a train track around the top in his room. Im pretty good woodworker and have reviewed some of the pics on the forum, ( very nice) but need to know how wide os a radius around the corners of the bedroom and what do I look for in purchasing more track to make it all the way around the room. 
kids Any suggestions and tips, Im all ears, cause looks like PawPaw has to put up a train set in Grandsons room ( what Grandkids want ,Grandparents get) Thank You For Viewing


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

Oh YEAH, Its a g-scale


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Well pawpaw, I'll take a crack at this. (I miss my Grandpa) The radius you will need depends on a few factors. I would say mostly how big the square footage of the ceiling is. In other words, it depends on how much area you have to work with. I'm fairly new to the building aspects of G-scale but I do know that the higher your curve radius, the less you are restricted on what you can run. If you are just going to run a simple Bachmann starter set then 4' diameter should be plenty. But if you plan on getting better designed equipment then you might want to consider going as high of a radius as possible. If your Grandson's room is 8'x10' for example you could use 8' diameter track and 2' of tangent (straight) track to make a simple oval. Another option is to use topography and grades to make two loops, one on top of another to add more appeal. Bear in mind that the less of a diameter you have, the worse (less prototypical to real trains) your trains will look on curves because of overhang. If your Grandson likes diesels then there are quite a few diesels of today that are built with certain curve constraints due to their prototypical length. The SD70MAC for example requires 8' minimum due to each of the locomotives trucks having 3 axles and the locomotive's length. With so many options it's easier to answer this question with knowledge of your goals in mind. If you just want a pretty simple design, use track power. As far as track, wow, that is a tough one. Unfortunately, track will have to be cleaned if you run track power. Brass needs cleaning more frequently than Stainless Steel, but less frequently than Nickel-Silver. As far as conductivity, Brass > Nickel-Silver > Stainless Steel. As far as maintenance, Stainless Steel > Nickel-Silver > Brass. There are many manufacturers who make G-scale track. To name a few: 
Aristo-craft 
Piko 
USA Trains 
LGB (I think they still make track) 
LLagas Creek 
H&R Trains 
Bachmann 
Just to name a few. All of these manufacturers have websites. You can just google them. Next you will be faced with track code. Track code is basicly the height of the railhead from the rail base, in other words... The rail height. The larger the number the larger the Rail height. 225 and 332 are very common. The code you want to get depends on how high your flanges are. Flanges are the part of the wheel that is ridged out to keep the train on the track and the bigger your flanges are the higher the track code you will want to use. Code 332 would keep you safe to run anything you want, whereas Code 250 might give you some unwanted noise from the flanges hitting the tops of the ties. Most importantly, don't do what people tell you. Do what you find works for your needs, and find that out by reading threads on MLS. There's a massive wealth of information on here and many helpful folks. There is no right or wrong way either lol but many of the oldheads (railroad term for a person of experience) know what they are doing and are happy to share their trials and tribulations to keep you from making the same mistakes they did. MLS is all you need honestly, there is nothing you can't find out about on here. Good luck and I hope I was of some help. 

-Will


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm not going to answer your questions because those with more thorough information will follow shortly. I will say welcome to "LSC" as we are wont to call it. I have a Tweetsie big hauler that I got at the same time as I got the Colorado & Southern big hauler (T. for my wife, C&S for me.) We quickly moved on to Aristo Brass track and an LGB C&S Forney followed closely by ... well it's too long a list. We don't run our Tweetsie any more having moved on to radio control, deciding the RC investment was high for an old big hauler. Lots of folks on here run big haulers, some with upgraded this or that, some on beautiful layouts inside and out. 

I can offer you one piece of advice though - What ever pleases you is the best. 

Happy g-scaling (you will soon learn how g-scale as a term is inaccurate while g-guage works just fine.)


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

What we really cal it is "MLS" (insert foot etc.)


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Boonite, 
Welcome to the forum. Is this something you want to invest a lot in, or just a short term trial? If you want something that will last you may need to change the track in the set. Bachmann track is hollow and will not hold up outdoors, but will work fine indoors until you wear it out. You can buy this a lot cheaper than the others and it should hold up for a few years.Look on EBay for Bachmann track. If you stay with this you will be using 4' diameter curves and your train will run fine with regular maintanence. 
If you want to bear the expense of the other track prices note that brass goes for over $5.00 a foot, and can't be connected to your Bachmann track. If you plan to buy other trains you may want to invest in a better grade of track with larger curves. 
Dave


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

Im looking at 12' by 10' and thinking of ceiling hangers and mounting it from ceiling. The corners will have to be pretty wide and that is a concern. ( might run it thru wall into computer room ,which is pretty much same size.)much as I can tell brass tracks will be way to go, with cleaning and dust and all. Question is : with a child that stays here alot and we enjoy every minute of it, would the Bachmann track be tough enough for the use. I want to set it to a 20 min delay to go off after he gets in bed, but I have a son in law that is an electrician. 
I guess this is a long term 4 or 6 years deal, I just promised him a tweetsie train friday and Im starting to do my research on how to hang it and what is the way to go with PawPaws new project


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

The pictures show a ceiling mounted railway I built for my son. I used 5/8 inch interior grade birch plywood for the track base, Birch 1x3's for the brackets. and birch 3/4 inch squares for the risers. Not sure if I used Birch, can't remember, but it was a fine grained wood. I then stained and sealed. The Total cost was about $100. If you wanted to paint, you could use a cheaper grade of wood or partical board. I used Aritocraft brass track (back when track was cheaper, 1 box R1 and 1 box 2 ft straight, less than $100 total) with R1 curves because of the small room size (8 X 10). The layout was 6 x 8 feet. Used a 1amp LGB starter set transformer mounted on a shelf. He used an LGB Stainz and the new starter set engines and they looked fine. I even brought over an LGB Mogul and that looked great too. I believe I used 10 inch risers that gave me 9 1/2 inches of clearance on the track. Toggle bolts to hold the brackets to the ceiling. For cleaning all we did was wipe the track with a cloth and alcohol. Not sure how to post pictures so you will have copy and paste the pictures below in a browser. Or email and will send pictures. I still have the layout stored in my attic as my son moved a while back. 
Steve 

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/Kamil1.jpg
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/Kamil2.jpg 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/Kamil3.jpg


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

this is exactly what I want, but you lost me with lgb starter set transformer,stanz and what is a mogul. what else will I need besides brass tracks ,does the Bachmann set have all the electrical stuff you need to run it or do youhave to buy transformers and controls .

The ceiling brackets look great , you made them out of 1x3's and how long are they , are the vertical pieces 3/4 by 3/4 thick and 10 " long. also track base is how wide


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

Stanz and Mogul are two different types of engines. You have a "ten-wheeler" in your Tweetsie set (count the wheels on the engine.) Most locomotive types have names associated with specific wheel counts and arrangements. I don't think you need to worry about that at the moment. The Bachman transformer will work for your starter set (it comes with the set) but it is a cheap little box. If you find you and your grandson are playing trains a lot, you may want to invest in a heavier duty transformer.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

The Bachmann set does have every thing you need to run the train. The transformer is wimpy, but for running the train around the room as you envision, it'll do fine. What might be a problem - easily fixed by you is the 'lock-on', where the wires connect to to the track. Those can be *very* flimsey; you might want to look into soldering the wires directly to the raiils, or screwing them in place somehow. 

Again, if you can manage it at all, go with the brass track. You can sometimes get deals on it off EBAY. 

The Bachmann track has what is called R! curves - pretty much the tightest curve track out there for large scale. A full circle of R1 track is just over 4 feet in diameter. The Bachmann loco will handle it, but if at all possible go with R2 (5 foot diameter) or even R3 (6.5 foot diameter) track. The wider curves are a lot easier on the loco, and the visual effect is better to boot. A lot of people here who routinely run the bigger loco's stick with 8 foot diameter curves, but that is probably more than what you have in mind requires.


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

A wise man once told me when I got into this hobby in the 90's Do Not go with anything less than 10ft diameter curves. Smaller will run your bachmann and lgb stuff, but if you get into the bigger things mikado's, Mallet's and such diesels like a dash 9 you won't want anything less than that so why not start with it. The Regal 

p.s. I just used particle board, 10ft curves 5ft straights, ( had to cut a couple) and regular white shelf hangers you buy at any hardware store, Wal Mart etc. One of these friday nites I will show live my indoor ceiling track on my channel for our show we hold every friday nite from 7-9pm MSt.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Regal - not sure if you noticed, but the room he's talikng about is only 10' x 12'. 10' diameter curves in a room only 10' wide...for this project at least, R2 (five foot diamter curves) would probably do him just fine. 

Boonite - now that I think about it again.... 

Any plans for scenery, sidings, ect? 

Also, Bachmann loco's land some items of rolling stock ike the one you are aiming for require a bit over 9 inches of vertical clearance to avoid bumping into things. Likewise the front part of the loco has a 'swing' of a couple inches on the tighter curves.


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Boonite, 
Here is a link to my post of the Hanging railroad I am currently working on in my house.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/6/postid/88534/view/topic/Default.aspx


I have cut holes in the walls for "tunnels", and will have 2 tunnels, ( one will be our bedroom closet and the second one will be our hall closet. All the information about the track hangars are in the post, including where to get them. Just another way of doing it. Also, I would recommend Brass track instead of the BAchmann track, it's sturdier and will last a long time. Since you will probably just be running the Bachmann Big Hauler, the contolr that comes with the starter set will provide plenty of power for your layout. 

Cliff


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## jguettler (Apr 17, 2009)

PawPaw,

As another example here's my webpage showing how I build the one in the office in our house. My Dad is a woodworker as his hobby and made the brackets we used oak veneer plywood for the roadbed.



http://www.trainweb.org/wgr/Overhead/overhead.html 

Jim


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

CCSII, now I understand. Learning the train language is gonna take me awhile. We are thinking about trying to set it up on its on switch and an automatic shut-off after 20 min or so. Might go ahead and look into better transformer. 
Thinkert, everywhere I read says the brass track is the way to go, So Im now to decide R2 or R3 , not gonna add scenery, but the layout will be like SLEMCKE and the clearance and and the swing is something I have been wondering about . Im now stgarting to wonder about some scenery , b ut I think now Im getting ahead of myself. 
HEY SLEMCKE, how wide did you make the brackets? You guys are the best, I really thank all of you for all the input and dont stop now, Im still all ears. BOY, Grandkids are expensive !!!!!!!!!


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

Sumpycc, that is very nice, I found yours on a google search earlier and wished I could afford all that. That is a v ery nice setup , I couldnt find prices for the hangers on the link you provided. dont know how far to space them ,but I can imagine that it would get up into the dollars. Like I said that is impressive for sure.
jguettler thats kinda like slemcke has and this is what I want to build. Thanks for the detailes web link . I have it in my favorites now and will read the whole thing this evening. You guys are the best and I just hope I can do half a good a job as you guys did


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Boonite, 
The hangars are $5.00 a each, and the toggle bolts can be found at Lowes for a box of ten for ten bucks. The hangars are spaced 2 foot on center. Thanks for the compliment, it is truly a labor of love. Micheal Niebaum also sells 2, 3, and 4 track wide hangars in case you want to make a double loop or put in a switch and and a siding. The bridges were $20.00 for a 2 foot, $30.00 for a 3 foot and $50.00 for the 5 foot bridge across the Fireplace. I just had assemble the smaller bridges and bought the 5 foot bridge already assembled, just painted it. I used 2 toggle bolts in each of the single track hangars. The Anchor srews can hold up to 90lbs. each. ( no, I will not be swinging from them like a monkey, it has been mentioned......LOL ). 
Cliff


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

Boonite 

Aside from the fact that your name makes it sound like you will only be running on Halloween-- 

Here is a list of wheel arrangements and names for different steam locomotives (for you to enjoy at your leisure.) It is not necessary to know any of this to enjoy your railroad but in case you are interested... 

http://www.trainweb.org/oaksmodelrr/Steam_Locomotive_Types.htm 

The first number gives you the number of small wheels in the front of the locomotive (your ten-wheeler has four there.) This front section often pivots and is called the "pilot truck." A truck on the rail road consists of one or more axels (two wheels each) assembled in a frame so that the axels work together, Many railroad cars have two trucks, each with two axels, each axel with two wheels. 

The second number gives you the number of drive wheels (large wheels often with spokes all connected with side rods to make the locomotive move.) Your ten-wheeler has six of those. 

Skipping over the exceptions to the rule (articulateds and such,) the third number gives you the number of small wheels in the "trailing truck" which sits behind the drivers. Your ten-wheeler doesn't have any so the wheel arrangement on your locomotive would be 4-6-0. The ten-wheeler is one of only a few locomotives actually named after the number of wheels it has. A consolidation is a 2-8-0 and has ten wheels but isn't called a ten-wheeler. 

Go take a look when you get a chance. 

Sorry about the inactive link, cut and paste it into your browser or maybe some generous fellow will activate it for us. 

Charley 

_Activated link - Mod._


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Careful! 

After you build this one in the bedroom, you'll want to build one in the flowerbed, and in the back yard and... 

The prognosis is grim, my friend.


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Boonite, 
I can't access MLS at work so took a while to reply. Dug some parts from the attic. The hanger base is a 1x3 at 10 inches long, The riser is actually 5/8 inche square and 11inches long. When you add the 3/4 inch plywood track base and track you have a hieght clearance of 9 1/2 inches. The track base is 5 inches wide and sits on the hangers with a clearance of 7 inches between the risers. The one picture shows an LGB Mogul on track and between the riser. 
The hanger bottom and top are the same and I beveled the edges with a router. The risers are attached with wood screws, counter sunk on the bottom and wood plug installed. I guess you could use dowels also. Just one toggle bolt through the center of the top piece. Make a template out of paper to find the location on the ceiling and mark the spots for hangers and bolts. Makes things alot easier, I found that out after trial and many errors. I think that covers it, any more questions or more photes just ask. 
Steve 


http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/Base%20and%20Riser.jpg 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/engine%20and%20Hanger.jpg
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/slemcke/Hanger%20and%20Track.jpg


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

Apparently those of us in Oklahoma don't know how to post active links.


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Jim, 
I really like your layout. I though about using that method for the next overhead I build. I really like how you ran the power. 
Steve


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Ok, you can go back and edit the post and re-add the pictures and they become a link. Might be the hard way but it works. 
Steve


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By ThinkerT on 06/01/2009 3:18 AM
Regal - not sure if you noticed, but the room he's talikng about is only 10' x 12'. 10' diameter curves in a room only 10' wide...for this project at least, R2 (five foot diamter curves) would probably do him just fine. 

Boonite - now that I think about it again.... 

Any plans for scenery, sidings, ect? 

Also, Bachmann loco's land some items of rolling stock ike the one you are aiming for require a bit over 9 inches of vertical clearance to avoid bumping into things. Likewise the front part of the loco has a 'swing' of a couple inches on the tighter curves. 


that's the size of my room give or take maybe a foot or two, and I have 10ft curves up there!!!!!!


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By stumpycc on 06/01/2009 5:11 AM
Boonite, 
Here is a link to my post of the Hanging railroad I am currently working on in my house.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/6/postid/88534/view/topic/Default.aspx


I have cut holes in the walls for "tunnels", and will have 2 tunnels, ( one will be our bedroom closet and the second one will be our hall closet. All the information about the track hangars are in the post, including where to get them. Just another way of doing it. Also, I would recommend Brass track instead of the BAchmann track, it's sturdier and will last a long time. Since you will probably just be running the Bachmann Big Hauler, the contolr that comes with the starter set will provide plenty of power for your layout. 

Cliff 

Cliff the Regal here looks like you made your railroad almost the same height as I did (This is probably the wrong or too late of a time to bring this up) BUUUUUUUUUUUUUt I am 60yrs. young, my legs and knees are bad!! The one regret I have is that the railroad isn't about 2-3 ft LOWER as it is and from the looks of your's you'll be like me standing on a step stool or a ladder to put things (engines and such) up on the track. It's a real pain when you get as crippled as I am. Wife says I can't lower until she's gone, i even offered to put a raising, and lowering bridge accross the living room to the dining room, and also accross the living room to the kitchen access, but NO NO and I mean NO. So now I have a railroad indoors that is a pain for me to reach to, and a railroad outdoors that is too LOW to get down to with my BAD knees!!!! Geeeeeeeeeeeeeez when does anything ever go right or at least half way decent??????????????? Just a thought, but you'll probably Kill me now that i have told you my experience, but maybe not your probably still a youngster, and can get to those heights with little or NO problem. Think ahead, Hindsight is way better than foresight always or something to that nature right? Hah Hah LOL The Regal


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By SLemcke on 06/01/2009 5:55 PM
Ok, you can go back and edit the post and re-add the pictures and they become a link. Might be the hard way but it works. 
Steve

Steve, I wasn't slaming you in any way. I am the other Oklahoman on here with an inactive link in my post. My apologies to you ar to anyone else who might have been offended.


Charley


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Charley, 
Didn't think you were. I was having a V8 moment, you always find a solution after you make a mistake or say you don't know how to do it. 
Steve


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Boonite, 
HEre is a link to Micheal Niebaum's webste; 

http://www.trainbuildings.com 

You can see all of his buildings and he also has a downloadable catalog in PDF format. 
Cliff


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## Boonite (May 31, 2009)

Stumpycc, thanks for the link. been kinda busy with Honey-dos and all. Been trying to talk into letting me go to Omaha ( my LSU Tigers made the World Series) and I really want to go , but it aint gonna happen I dont guess.
The Train is here, UPS brought it in late yesterday and my grandson came in this morning and saw the box sitting over in the corner and of course I had taken it out of the packing box. I wish I could of snapped a pic , it was special. Now PawPaw has to do his part. Thanks again for all the ideas and help, you guys are the best. Will post progress as I go.


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## CCSII (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Boonite on 06/09/2009 6:04 AM
Stumpycc, thanks for the link. been kinda busy with Honey-dos and all. Been trying to talk into letting me go to Omaha ( my LSU Tigers made the World Series) and I really want to go , but it aint gonna happen I dont guess.
The Train is here, UPS brought it in late yesterday and my grandson came in this morning and saw the box sitting over in the corner and of course I had taken it out of the packing box. I wish I could of snapped a pic , it was special. Now PawPaw has to do his part. Thanks again for all the ideas and help, you guys are the best. Will post progress as I go.


"Will post progress as I go."


That's what we like to hear!


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## Allan W. Miller (Jan 2, 2008)

PawPaw: 

My advice would be to stick with small radius curves in a room that size. A 4' radius will work with smaller locomotives like the one you're talking about, and a 5' radius will be even better. You won't need anything wider than that for the relatively simple overhead layout you're planning. 

Go with brass track--Aristo is a good brand and they come with small screws that you can use to fasten the sections together for added security. I would not recommend the Bachmann track except for things like around-the-Christmas tree use. 

Based on your original post, this is not intended to be a terribly elaborate setup, so don't get confused by a ton of information, much of which may not be relevant to your situation. 

Consider a wall-mounted layout in addition to a suspended layout. If I was doing it, I would likely go for something mounted high on the walls rather than suspended (particularly if you want to add scenic elements later), but that's strictly a personal choice. 

Since you're experienced with carpentry, I would probably recommend just making the support elements yourself, for the most part.


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