# Dual Rail Benders 332 & 250 track



## FrankMatulewicz (Dec 27, 2007)

Getting back in Garden Railroading after a few years absence and was wondering what is available on double rail rail benders? Any comments and suggestions are welcome. I have mostly Aristo Code 332 but am considering going to code 250 and looking at Llagas.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

The dual rail bender supplied by Train-Li is a winner. They are pricey, but you could build your RR and sell it for 80% of what you pay for a new one. We have one in stock.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike, I have had a Train-Li for 10+ years. Used it for my own SS track and have loaned it out several times. Shows very little wear and the curve can be duplicated easily using the gauge built into the unit. Lg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The train-Li dual-rail bender works great on big brass code 332 track. However, I don't know anyone who has tried it on code 250 rail.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The RLD one is very good also.

Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

According to the brochure that is delivered with the Rail Bender, on Page 3: 
QUOTE Below
CONVERSION KIT
if you work with code 332 and code 250 rail, call us for our conversion kit. With little assembly you can use the same rail bender for both track types (5-10 minute conversion).
Phone number provided is 508 529 9166. or www.train-li-usa.com LG


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a Train Li bender set up for code 250 and it works fantastically!
The smaller profile of code 250 rail looks more realistic to my eye. I have used both AMS and Sunset Valley. The tie sizes are quite different so choose which you like the looks of.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You can order the trainli bender in either code 250 or 332. There are conversion kits to make it go to the other code. Also there is a special clamp available to keep the end of the track rails even and the expansion only goes to one end which means only 1 rail needs to be cut.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan, I used a Hillman's double rail clamp, worked just fine, not sure if they still make them. LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What Dan is talking about a clamp that secures both rails (one on each end of a tie) so the rails do not slide in relation to each other, otherwise, sometimes one rail "walks" and you get a big offset (that has to be cut off) at the end of a section.










Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

That may be useful if using a hack saw to cut the rail, which I personally would not even attempt with SS, a in any case a Dremel or such would do a much cleaner and quicker job.. I can see where that would interfere with the tool endl. I have found in most cases having staggered joints, as any who has laid track can attest to, is the better way to go accept where connecting to a 'factory made' turnout. The clamp I thought he was talking joined two rails to make a continuous curve joining the rails, and it does work. LG


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## FrankMatulewicz (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks you all very much for your responses. OUCH. Talk about pricey, yeah I agree. AND I can't believe what track sections are costing now. I remember buying a box of AristoCraft European 48" track sections (they looked more like narrow guage to my eye) for under $200.00 ($187.00 if memory serves me right). AND forget about code 250 unless I can find a more reasonable price than what I'm seeing. Now I'm wondering if I can find just the code 250 rail at a more reasonable price. I was thinking I could make my own ties out of composit decking planks. They're kind of a combination of wood and plasitc, have nice wood grain, look like wood, are UV resistant and are supposed to last a very very long time. Has anyone out there tried that?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Frank, yes prices have greatly surpassed inflation. I do envy you for the desire to hand lay your rail. Your idea of the ties sounds like a winner. I believe there is a 'staple gun' tool that will drive a spike on both sides of the track at the same time. Keep us posted. LG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

I'm afraid that "staple gun" tool was made by Kadee decades ago, and it was calibrated for HO gauge rail (probably code 100). Everyone I know of, who hand-lays track in #1 gauge, uses the method of pressing in individual spikes. Some folks may pre drill pilot holes for the spikes.

From what I have read, regular steel spikes are best, as they stay in their ties better once they get some rust on them.

A powered spiker would really be great, but for our large sizes of rail my guess is that a pneumatic or electric nail gun would be a better starting point. Also, one of those pin nailers some folks have used for trestles may be a good starting point - drive the pin leaving about 3/32 exposed, then bend that over the foot of the rail.

Just a thought,
David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, thank you for catching me up to date on that nailer. Yes the one I had was for HO, thought I saw one for our scale, but could be mistaken. Might be a nice project to create one using an air driven stapler, I have one and just may try something. LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually it is not really intended as a clamp to hold the rail s while cutting, but as Dan and I both stated, when bending both rails at the same time, often one rail "walks" more than the other, and you end up unintentionally staggering the ends by a large amount, i.e. wasteful.

Also while staggering joints should minimize the jolts when traversing, using quality rail clamps (and this product is to compliment a line of quality clamps) staggering the joints is not necessary to get smooth joints... this habit makes sense when you are using ordinary joiners, which have virtually no capability to keep the rails at the same angle right at the joint, they will expand a bit and allow a kink.

Greg



Nick Jr said:


> That may be useful if using a hack saw to cut the rail, which I personally would not even attempt with SS, a in any case a Dremel or such would do a much cleaner and quicker job.. I can see where that would interfere with the tool endl. I have found in most cases having staggered joints, as any who has laid track can attest to, is the better way to go accept where connecting to a 'factory made' turnout. The clamp I thought he was talking joined two rails to make a continuous curve joining the rails, and it does work. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

That unit will not allow the bender to travel over the rail to make a continuous bend where as the double joiner on individual track will allow that. And walking the rail is a good thing as it stagers the joints. AND that unit will not allow the rail to walk which will add to the problem trying to bend them. Please show where Dan sayis that is a bad thing. 
Greg, If you have actually used that device to assist in the shape of rail, please post your pics of it doing so. 
Also, there are Expansion Joints I have used. When you shape rail it should not be permanently affixed to the tie to allow expansion. When I have used Aristo Craft sectional track in places I have removed the screws to better allow the bending and expansion of the rail . Mine will actually bridge the gap of 3" of the expansion joints on very hot days, Thank You


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nick, I don't know what is wrong, but I think you need to re-read what I posted, your responses to me don't make any sense

1. you state: "That unit will not allow the bender to travel over the rail to make a continuous bend where as the double joiner on individual track will allow that." The function of the tool is to hold the ends of the rails to control excessive "walking" while bending. You put it at the end of a section. So you never have to run the bender "through" the clamp it's at the end of a section.

2. you state: "And walking the rail is a good thing as it stagers the joints." I stated the reasons why when using clamps that is not much of an issue, and was not an issue for me. Staggering joints is most helpful when you cannot curve the track though the joint, and using a double clamp as Dan and Train-Li recommend solves that issue, i.e. nice curvature even with joints lined up.

3. you state: " AND that unit will not allow the rail to walk which will add to the problem trying to bend them." Again I stated the clamps purpose and why you don't care about staggering joints.

4. you state: "Greg, If you have actually used that device to assist in the shape of rail, please post your pics of it doing so. " Once again you are focused on a function of the clamp that is NOT it's function. And I have indeed used it, and it works as advertised, and honestly it's function is so simple and straightforward I cannot see any reason to take a picture, the one on the Train-Li site is sufficient and shows it in proper operation.

5. you state: "Also, there are Expansion Joints I have used. When you shape rail it should not be permanently affixed to the tie to allow expansion. When I have used Aristo Craft sectional track in places I have removed the screws to better allow the bending and expansion of the rail ." 
Finally, I completely and wholeheartedly *AGREE!!* Of course this has nothing to do with the clamp and the bender per-se.

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The Train-Li railbender will work just fine on code 250. Mine is the "code 332" version, but all my rail is code 250. Bends things just fine and dandy.

Yes, these are pricy tools.

Yes, they are worth every last penny.

I would not build a railroad using flex track without one. Also, you'll have use for it during routine maintenance every year as well, so it's not just a tool you'll use when building the railroad then see it rust and collect dust. I run mine over the curves in my reverse loops every Spring just to help "reset" things from the winter freeze/thaw cycle. 

Later,

K


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

In my experience the rail walking is a necessary happening while bending , if that clamp is in place and the rail is not allowed to walk the track will not curve. EXAMPLE: I lent the bender to someone and he tried to bend LGB track without cutting the webs from the ties, or trying to bend Aristo sectional track without removing the screws so the rail could walk, it just wouldn't happen. And staggering the joints, weather you are using slide joiners or clamps is a good thing as it is less likely for both rails to be come unaligned. While I think the bender is excellent, I see no use for that item. My last word, Thank You


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nick, if people follow your advice to remove the screws, then all the "walking" will confine itself to one end if they use the Train-Li clamp, normally an easier to handle situation than cutting/re-aligning BOTH ends.

But you see I said "excessive" walking... and staggering joints does incur more work, since now you need TWO "breaks" in the ties between "sections" since they are staggered. So now you need to cut up the tie "sections" in more places (double the cuts)

Worse, if you are bending sectional track, you now have to cut ties loose from the rest. I was able to do less fooling around when doing minor bends on sectional track keeping non-staggered joints.

So, there's pro's and con's of both methods, but I cannot see only advantages for staggering the joints, and I have no issues with non-staggered joints, but I do indeed run the bender across ALL curved joints... I was able to bend with a normal rail clamp, not the "double length" rail clamp that is often recommended.

Greg


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