# Soldering brass track jumpers-watts



## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I need to solder jumpers to Aristo Craft brass track. Clearly my 30 watt iron isn't up to the job.
Can anyone recommend an iron or gun with enough wattage to do the job?
What exactly is enough wattage to solder AC brass rail? I don't want to use resistance soldering or torch soldering.
Thanks in advance.

Wayne

Knackered Valley Railroad
Long Island NY


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

If you like to use a "gun," I find that the Weller D550 (325 watts) is up to the job and has done my entire railroad. I paid $7 at a yard sale, but they are still available on-line. If you want to use a "pencil," you can get by with fewer watts because they retains the heat (maybe as little as 200 watts). But I don't like doing a lot of work with a big hot pencil sitting near-by.


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## bicyclexc (Mar 31, 2010)

While working on my indoor layout I discovered that using the track tie screws allowed my to attach wires without soldering required. Perhaps that might work out of doors as well. 

Good Luck.


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.
I have used wires attached to the screws underneath the AC track. I then cover the entire metal area of the screw with silicone caulk.
However, the areas that I need to work on are around Piko turnouts that do not have usable screws. In these areas I want to use jumpers to connect the AC track to the Piko turnout. I have considered Split Jaw clamps and I may still use them but I like the continuity of jumpers. Toddalin, your experience with the Weller D550 fits hand in hand with my Internet and forum searches. Thanks. I now have one coming from Amazon.

Wayne


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Try to stay away from the pivot points. It's no big deal to melt a tie, but you want the point rails to ride true and you do not want to distort the plastic in those areas. With the Weller, you can even wedge a wet rag right in around the pivot point to take up excess heat when working on that rail in that area. The spot that you wish to solder must be scraped shiny using either a wheel, or just a flat blade screwdriver (easier).


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I use Aristo track and I have soldered jumper wires on all the rail joints I use a method that a professional model railroad builder had posted on one of the lists (I think it was the old LSOL) it is easy and it works...
You do need is a *BIG* soldering iron that will heat the rail quick, I used an old iron I've had around for years, also soldering rail on a warm sunny day will make heating the rail easier.









By big I meant a BIG soldering iron.... The soldering iron in the picture is only 150 watts but the tip has enough mass to heat the rail and melt the solder almost instantly, I've never melted a tie.... FYI, that is a 12" ruler in front of the soldering iron...
More on how I did it......*http://4largescale.com/trains/P20.htm*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That unit gives meaning to the "iron" part of "soldering iron"... I agree, the heat "reservoir" is what you need to really do it right. 

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Dean 

I bet that monster you got there was made in the USA a long time ago. 

Finding one today that isn't made in China will be hard enough, let alone finding a monster like yours.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I also found that it helps to do the job in the late afternoon after the track has been sitting in the sun all day and the rail has warmed up.


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