# Under-the-deck train storage project



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi all. Since it's fairly time-consuming to haul locos and cars from indoor shelves to the layout for running, I've wanted a storage barn to house a couple of trains that are ready to go. 

The only real opportunity for this has been under a narrow deck that runs the length of our house on its back side. Last year I dug out a lot of dirt from beneath this structure, so that I could walk upright without a hard hat. Here's the basic design.










The lower platform is the track “deck,” and the higher level is just the top of three boxes (and a sort of storage table for off-season). These boxes are the lockable storage "barn." To hide it all, I'd like to put up a backdrop of sorts.










After finally completing my cleanup of trees we had to drop and chop, last weekend I began construction. I needed two more posts (in the foreground) to allow the backdrop to be a straight line.










Then came the start of the "track deck." This first section was tougher, because it includes part of a ramp that comes up from the layout.










The rest of this deck was easier. It needed a few stubby posts to hold it up, but was otherwise fairly straightforward.










It took me a day to make the frames for the box tops and sides, and another day to install them with their hinges (and get them working ok). I’m not a quick carpenter by any means.










Here’s one of the boxes folded up. Handles and hasps will come later, for lockable storage. I’ll probably want counterweights or block & tackle, they’re heavy. 










The last bit of framing was the remainder of the lead-in ramp which, due to its weird interaction with a stairway, required a bit of thinking for each piece. And another post.










Here’s the completed ramp.










Connecting this ramp with the layout track will be a short (~15’) ribbon of concrete roadbed. Before that though, I’d like to get all the sheathing installed for deck, boxes and backdrop. That’ll be the next big step, which might take a while.

===> Cliffy


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliffy;

The post for me just displays a black box with a white X in it instead of photos. My browser is Internet Explorer. Don't know whether it is my browser or something to do with your post.

Just FYI,
David Meashey


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

David, thanks for pointing that out, are all the pics that way, or just some?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I just get a white box, no black"X".

I'm using safari.

Chuck

Cliff ALL are.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Chuck. I used the normal methods.... maybe someone can help me figger this out...

It blanked them out for me with IE. Huh. I'll upload the pics to my photo album and do some surgery on the post.

[edit]

After re-loading the pics and re-inserting their addresses (using the "mountain icon"), now I can't see the pics even in Chrome. Or IE. Has something changed, or am I geezing heavily, or what?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you mount them from the first class storage space, or through the the additional options below, or some other way?

Chuck

Do they show up for you when you view your post?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

My first method was with the paperclip / attachments upload method, which showed up for me (but not for you and David). Then I uploaded all to my 1st class album, and replaced the links. Both times via the mountain icon. But now, I don't see the pics.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Oh. For the latter method, I should have right-clicked and done "Copy image address". I'll try that next. 

[edit] I see them now; does anyone else? Thanks guys.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff

You have a record! Seven replies and eight views. That is 82.5%. Most are one percent or less. Way to go.

Chuck


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Well...I'm using the stand back method here in AZ!
All pics are up loaded...great concept n follow thru Cliffy.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Chuck, maybe if I keep replying to myself I'll hit %100, haha!

Thanks Dirk, I appreciate that Buddy!


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

It works for me.
Nice use of empty space.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jim.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff

I just got on, all is OK.

CHuck


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Chuck, good to hear.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

looks great Cliff!


Jer


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Very nice Cliffy


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Love the idea and all the two by fours are just as I would have over engineered it.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"and all the two by fours are just as I would have over engineered it."

Randy;

Over engineering is not necessarily a bad thing. It is the reason why some railroad bridges that were built over 100 years ago are still able to handle today's traffic.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

2 x 4 are a cheap n solid material..good choice!!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I dunno, looked flimsy to me!
I see padded cushions on top so the kids can 'sleep' out there while Dad plays trains!

John


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Haha! Thanks guys, and I'm glad most of you think it looks sturdy enough. Except John  

Dirk's right, 2x4's and 2x6's are cheap, so... It's heavy, but to lighten things up would have required a lot of ripping on the table saw, which maybe I should have done. But WTH.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Time is $$$..


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it done yet? LOL


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I tried that. Built two tracks under my back porch. It was a bad Idea as the porch was low and I could not WALK under it. I like you Idea You can walk under yours. Are going to put up something like Lattice work to hide it when your not around? 


JJ


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

John J said:


> I tried that. Built two tracks under my back porch. It was a bad Idea as the porch was low and I could not WALK under it. I like you Idea You can walk under yours. Are going to put up something like Lattice work to hide it when your not around?
> 
> 
> JJ


Your under the porch problem had a name. Sneaky Snake.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

JJ, my under-deck used to be pretty low, so I had to dig out a lot. The orange-ish stain on the walls shows where the original dirt was. Because the layout was higher in elevation than the dug-out under-deck, I had to install another drain line.










There will be a sort of backdrop in front to hide things, it's roughly shown in the first post's computer model shots.

Gotta long way to go Marty, haha! Starting on the sheathing tomorrow, that'll be fun.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I began the sheathing today, starting with the main "track deck."


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Funny...for all the hard work...the huge investment your building here for storage Cliff...

I would have thought you of all people would stain or seal all the lumber first ... You do everything else...

I know..I know..I won't ask...your working hard on this buddy!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

You raise a good point Dirk, and here's my reasoning. This lumber (from Lowes) is very soggy, and I need a couple months for it to truly dry out before staining. You can actually see liquid come out when you drive a screw. 

Since I need to keep moving, I'm putting down the sheathing and not worrying about staining the surfaces I can't see. That's worked in other places on the deck (say, stair undersides), and the un-stained PT wood looks fine after several years.

In September, when the rest of the shelves & etc. are done, I'll pressure-wash the new stuff and stain. 

Thanks for asking,
Cliff


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

CliffyJ said:


> You raise a good point Dirk, and here's my reasoning. This lumber (from Lowes) is very soggy, and I need a couple months for it to truly dry out before staining. You can actually see liquid come out when you drive a screw.
> 
> 
> Cliff


So much for kiln dried.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I thought they were supposed to let lumber dry before selling it!
New liquefied lumber products!! 
Keep after it Cliffy!!


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

LOL...yea..Randy!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

What's worse, you have to install it before it drys and warps, otherwise you'll have a nice hockey stick collection.

I'm exaggerating, but not much....


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Free set of skinny snow skies...no bindings..yuk
Free props...just add a plane
Free firewood..cut n burn
..lots of uses!!

LOL


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Are you going to put anything on the sides to hide it like Lattice work for something?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi John, yes, there will be panels that will serve as a backdrop of sorts. That will come a little later.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

The garage boxes are almost done, with the train entry hatch being the main thing not yet done. Here's a shot of the boxes closed up.










And, the boxes open.










A closeup of the side hardware,










...and the top hold-up hooks.










The lids + sides are heavy to lift, but not too much. Still, I want to build things so I can work them 10 years from now, so I'll add some kind of assist device. More on that later. 

Thanks for viewing,
Cliff


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

K...Cliffy....what is that blue thick stuff buddy????

Really nice detailed work..radiused hand holes..your the man!
Keep Raccoons out for sure..

Dirk


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Very impressive Cliffy, really looks like you know what you are doing. 

Chris


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

That is nothing like what I thought is was going to be. That is really a great Idea. 
I now have a Idea for my engine shed. 

JJ


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliffy;

The storage unit is really looking good. What is the blue material used for the floor, top, and sides? is it some kind of really dense foam?

Thanks,
David Meashey


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## josephunh (Mar 27, 2013)

Looking great but curious as it will keep animals out but how about the bugs?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Dirk and David, thanks very much, and the plastic is called "Starboard," made by King Plastic for marine and other outdoor uses. Ain't cheap, but it's practically indestructible. It's basically the same stuff that food cutting boards are made of, except not food-grade in formulation.

I appreciate that Chris, coming from a designer such as yourself!

JJ, good to hear, thanks. Your barns are realistic-looking though, so I'm curious to hear what you have in mind...?

Thanks Joseph. I expect bugs and the occasional reptile to take refuge. If it gets bad, I'll have to put in baskets of mothballs or something.


Cliff


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Gunna "Moth-ball" your equipment!
Sad... Really sad..
..my bad!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Dirk;

Like the old vaudeville one-liner: "I've never heard a butterfly cry, but I've seen a moth bawl!!"

Yabba-Dabba Doo,
David Meashey


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Today I started on the backdrop panels, and got about half-way through.

These panels form the outboard side of the train garage, and will later get cut down some and painted to be a backdrop to the eventual city here. 



















Cliff


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Cliffy,

Your train shed is an outstanding design with absolutely gorgeous workmanship. 

As to the bug issue, maybe adding some gasket material would help. If you really get carried away and hermetically seal everything, you could run a thermostat controlled damper AC duct to it to climate control the trains.

-Ted


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Ted, thanks very much!!


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Looks like you could use the tops for a train work shop and work on your trains. there.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Right you are, JJ. At least, work on quicker repairs, since the lids have to open sometimes, to get at turnouts. But if there's only 3 trains in the barn, yeah, longer-term workbench.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Dang JJ that is more horizontal work surface then I have in my house and shop! 

Great job Cliff

Jerry


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking great Cliffy.

Chris


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Looking very well thought out and great design, 
Dennis


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks guys, much obliged!!


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Naptowneng said:


> Dang JJ that is more horizontal work surface then I have in my house and shop!
> 
> Great job Cliff
> 
> Jerry



And it still isn't enough 

JJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Last weekend, I had to lift the box lids+sides a number of times, and knew that an "assist" device was needed soon. I experimented with pulleys, and that would work. But since they take space, and tend to clutter things up and take time, my mind kept going back to a sprung-from-below solution. 

Whether I use gas springs, automotive struts or some home-grown approach to guided conventional compression springs, I needed to first see what room I could carve out. And here's the picture.










If I squeeze all the tracks to the opening side, and allow for 6" spacing, it looks like there will be enough space for the lift springs. Here's the resultant track arrangement.










On the storage track spacing thread (http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-t...67826-storage-track-spacing-2.html#post929938), I believe I'm being advised to go with 6.5" min spacing. So I'll check that out next.

I found some Suspa springs with 130lb force. 2 per section would bring the lift force down from 75 lbs to around 25 lbs.

More later...Thanks for viewing,
===>Cliffy


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I think the 6.5" spacing will work. So for the record, here's the updated diagrams.



















===>Cliffy


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I got back to the backdrop this weekend, and here's how it's looking at this point.










The opening in the middle will be a double-door, and the wonky panel at the far left will be a hatch to get at the entry track. Both are waiting on some T-hinges, which I need to modify a bit.

Here's the interior,










Well, that's about it for this weekend. Cheers,
Cliff


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Rather than cut the panels why not find an "artist" to paint the backdrop in perspective of mountains behind city type thing? Maybe snow capped all year kind of mountains like in Colorado or Alaska.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Alan, yes, the plan is to roughly paint the Washoe mountain ridge in the background, while leaving about half the backdrop as sky.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

This weekend I was able to finish up the remaining details, beginning with fitting and installing the center backdrop doors. The top latch was oversized to add some stability to that unsupported joint.











Here's how they look like when open. The hinges were oversized to make the needed bend that permits 180-degree opening.











The entry ramp will poke through the vacant triangle under the stair. 










It's a tricky space behind there, so I made the last backdrop panel a door as well.











Back to the boxes, this morning I installed a test pair of gas springs.




















These are 135lb springs, so 270lb force total. I did my best with the calcs, but I was very relieved to see that the pair does just fine. Here's a quick vid.







Actually, they work a little too well. Maybe the wood has dried out some, don't know. So I'll use 120lb springs for the other two panels. 

Thanks for viewing,
===>Cliffy


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They weaken after a bit, so maybe a bit stronger than you need right now will keep them working longer.

I'm sure you have experienced "aging" of gas struts in one vehicle or another.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Good point Greg. Hmmm. Maybe I should have stayed with the 135-pounders.
But, since they were over 2x the price of the 120--pounders (I have no idea why), I went with the weaker ones.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Today I finalized the template for the entry roadbed, and here it is in rough position.




























Next will be elevating it properly, followed by some excavation and then the final forming for the concrete.

===>Cliffy


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Grab a cool one..some 'mud',.. Build onwards...plenty of shade for gettin 'er done!


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

I see a good place to take a nap.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks guys


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

My good friend Jerry (aka "naptowneng") took a video of the layout with his drone, which illustrates how the backdrop & storage area are situated relative to the layout.





 
Thanks Jerry!


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow! That is neat!
I want a drone video of my layout.

Tommy
Rio Gracie


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Tommy, Jerry's de Man.

Or, you can get your own. Jerry said that the Phantom 3 can be had for $500, and sure enough,

http://store.dji.com/product/phantom-3-standard


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Looking good Cliffy. Much easier to lift those lids with the gas shocks in place. Add some cushions and maybe a shelf for a cooler and you are all set for guests.
Like the drone shot and if my eyes didn't deceive me you were running at least one train while it was hovering overhead. Like all storage areas you'll need plenty of trains to fill up the new space. (Goes back to puttering with my first tunnel)


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Alan. And yeah, it's nice and shady down there... 

Yes, that was Jerry's (RC) loco, pulling some of his cars. My reverse loops are automatically controlled via DCC, and the RC loco triggered them perfectly, so that was a welcome sight to see.

BTW, I came mighty close to ordering a DJI Phantom 3 Standard last night ($500!). My quivering index finger was just about to click the BUY button. But since I saw them at ECLSTS, I've been really wanting one of the new Bachmann moguls coming out soon, they're drop dead gorgeous. $600 street price. 

I was also looking at a neat entry-level quadcopter (with camera), for around $30. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXBDWZC

Very limited, but might be good for getting my feet wet. And still buying the mogul.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

After putting up a shade tarp, today was mainly forming the entry ramp roadbed.



















The walls are doubled 4" strips of masonite, with overlapped seams, wired to rebar stakes. Before pouring, I'll pull out the template plywood. It's there to position the masonite and help keep its shape beforehand.

===>Cliffy


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Today I did final prep on the form, such as removing the template, shoring up the masonite in a couple places, and laying the 3/8" rebar. And tweaking the masonite for levelness. It was kind of a steamy day, as the pics indicate..










Then the pouring. It only took 5 bags, so that was nice.










===>Cliffy


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Only 5 bags??? I keep forgetting that anything under 50 bags at a time is light weight for you. Did notice the pillow near the pour. Still working on first 3 bags for my mountain. Looking good as usual, wish they built houses around here that well.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hey Alan, haha! Yeah, those mountains were excessive... But I'm trying to get the hard stuff done before I'm of retirement age. (Notice that I'm no longer saying "before I retire.") Joints are going south, so I need those cushions (they're from old patio chairs, I have a whole stock pile  .

I sure hope the best for your mountains, and am enjoying seeing your progress, keep it up!!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Today was cleaning up the entry roadbed, starting by clearing the forms and doing some gravel fill.










I had been planning on doing an all-concrete walk-over ramp, but after looking things over, decided on an all-stone ramp. I had a bunch of flat-ish rocks. So I returned 3 bags of 'crete, and bought 4 bags of pea stone from the local hardware store. 










Here's a shot of the entry ramp from the under-deck area.










I'm very relieved that step is done! Been semi-anxious about this tricky area for a few years, so I'm very happy that the geometry and reality worked out. 

Thanks for following along,

===>Cliffy


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Nice job Cliff! You got a lot done, all I did for the last three days was sweat off about 20 pounds in the heat at the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association's Steam weekend, with my live steam group, running trains for the edification and amusement of the public. I look forward to seeing the track appear and connect to the main railroad

Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jerry! You probably had more fun than I did though, haha! But yeah, I'm looking forward to the track stage as well.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

You having Joint issues buddy! What's that?
Trains keep us .. young!
More crete..build somethin...your not done!!
Looks great...your having a good summer work-a-thon..don't stop now..them joints will get stiff...
SD


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Don't worry Cliff, just wait until HD delivers Dirk's 10 pallets of block. Then stiff joints will come up again


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Too funny Alan! 
And Dirk, I'll bear that in mind.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

You guys just hit my Phuny bone!!!
I just used tractor for 30 minutes before Sun set to clear a flat ground to set all those pallets on...in morning I hear..from nice lady that sold me the pallets..blocks are free...

I'm so waiting in morning...sometime tomorrow!!
Humor me more guys?? your the best!
SD...at least I won't bonk my head...


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Yesterday was my last vacation day on this project, so I'm back to work today. Kinda hard to stop, I wish there was some way to pay the bills by doing what I want 

The day started with clearing out the final junk corner from beneath the deck, helping toads find a new home, moving more dirt to get things to the same level, and leveling out the gravel floor. This place was always hideous, dark and full of junk, spider webs and mud. Now, I almost want to put a picnic table down there, haha!










The bigger challenge though was negotiating how the backdrop panels should be cut, with my Better Half. As the model pic in my first post shows, the top edge is supposed to be undulating, and lower than the height of the stock sheets.










Being a design-engineer, I tend towards straight lines. However, my wife Linda, being an artist, and someone who dislikes this invasion of synthetic material, and who is also daily handling the weeding of the layout and caring of our "baby trees," needs to be real happy about all this. So, we spent quite a bit of time on determining this cut line. Here's a shot of the line of negotiation, which changed repeatedly.










(TW, I know this exceeds the width max, but I decided to live it up in this instance).

And, here's the cut version.










I wasn't really glad to see the straight lines go (*sniff*) but WTH. And, the backstage area has much more natural light, which it (and the basement windows behind) needed.










Eventually this backdrop will have more going on, but for this season I need to move onto other aspects of this project.

Thanks for viewing,
===>Cliffy


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Hey Cliff

OK I come down on Linda's side on this one. The undulating edge is very pleasing against all the linear lines of deck, house, etc, and compliments your layout design which is anything but linear....

So just do what you are told! 

Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Glad to hear it Jer, thanks!


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Remember the comment "If Momma's not happy, no one is happy" besides more light means your can see what's in the beer cooler. Is Linda going to paint the scenery on the wall, or do you have a local muralist in mind? Great place for operators to take a break during open house too.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Alan, I was actually thinking of that line a couple days ago, haha! So true. And good point on the cooler...

If I'm lucky, my wife and 2 daughters (all avid artists) will help, but that might be next spring. Need cooler weather, and a paintable substrate for the mountain bits, which will be a story in itself probably. .


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

As you develope the mountain outline further...how about a relief profile..several layers of thickness..painting each in varying shades as the layers recede!!

Thinning...


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## Joe Mascitti (Oct 30, 2008)

So Nice Cliff. Did you cut the background with a router?


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

fyrekop said:


> Remember the comment "If Momma's not happy, no one is happy"


Something I alway try to remember: Happy wife, happy life


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Dirk, yes, the mountain will be a separate layer over the blue plastic, just one layer of something paintable.

Thanks Joe, glad you like it! I used a saber saw for the cut. I was going to come back with a router, to give a smooth edge. But that process throws so much plastic sawdust, I'll just leave it be, at least for now.

And Dan. roger all that!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

After pressure washing and staining the last two weekends, this weekend I was able to finish the storage boxes and backdrop. Mainly cleaning, installing the remaining box lid lifts, and final countersinking / screwing of the b'drop panels.



















Next step will either be laying the track or making storage shelves, haven't decided yet.

Cheers,

===>Cliffy


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Started laying the track today, which I always think is a lot of fun. 



















Cheers,
===>Cliffy


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I would be careful there Cliffy. You know there are laws against having too much fun.

Looks Great


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Cliffy,
You are running DCC right? Did you even get a result you liked with your remote switching system project? If so I see several more places where control boxes will be going.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

JJ, too right! Especially here in MD, where they punish you and tax you for the same thing, haha! I'm very pleased that you like it. 

Alan, yep, all DCC. The switch controls worked fine, thanks for asking. But some of the switch machines have been flaky. I've not been running much this year, and so have fallen behind on the MOW.... 

I finished the track today, doing the entry ramp leg (on the concrete roadbed) in the earlier AM before the sun rose above the shade trees. Been hot here! The rest of the track, being under the deck, went pretty quickly. 





























Next step is track wiring, which should go pretty quickly tomorrow.

===>Cliffy


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

It's looking really nice, Cliffy. I think your storage looks better (neater, more well-constructed) than some layouts I'm familiar with. One in particular. In central Kansas. 

What are you going to use for buffers at the end of the tracks? Or are you so confident in your train handling abilities you're going without?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

riderdan said:


> It's looking really nice, Cliffy. I think your storage looks better (neater, more well-constructed) than some layouts I'm familiar with. One in particular. In central Kansas.
> 
> What are you going to use for buffers at the end of the tracks? Or are you so confident in your train handling abilities you're going without?


Hi Dan, glad you like it. Since I have lots of other harsh dead ends on the layout, I suppose the main buffer will the school of hard knocks.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Hey Cliff

Very nice storage barn, well done! Now fill that with consists and locos, and you are off and running

RE: end of track bumpers: Well in my much more modest train barn, 2 tracks 10 ft long, I decided to adhere a layer of packing foam to the rear wall to cushion any accidents and well, it has come in handy a few times 

Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Well, if both you guys say it's important, it sounds like I'll be adding some foam. 

Thanks Jer.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's a video from the train's eye view, leaving and returning to the barn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CFGnJrdtMs&feature=youtu.be


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Very nice, Cliffy. Something to strive for. ZZDo need to get the storage area figured out first though.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

With the length of those storage rails do you plan on running long trains? I really like the Video.

JJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Alan, and thanks John. 

JJ, I probably can't run any trains longer than about 18 feet. The switches in the barn should let me stow four trains, with the longest being 15'. That would be 3 times longer than any train I've run so far! Thanks for asking.

CJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

The next part of this under-deck storage project is shelving, in a corner against the basement wall. Here's the gist of the design.










The corner part will be a drip-proof cabinet to stow the DCC equipment and other sensitive items. To its left are three shelves for winter-time storage of props & small buildings. To the left of that will be a rack for lengths of whatever long stock needs a home. 

Today I got the main framing done.










Cheers, 
===>Cliffy


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

There's more 2 x 4's again... 
Having Fun R ya!?

SD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Can't help it, Dirk...


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I shoulda bought stock in HD.. Before Cliffy started!
More buddy..more!!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

And where was it you get your PVC pipe from Dirk?


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Ha ha ha L O L

H.D.

...guess I'll get my 2 cents in here..

What's a "long western train?"
JJ gets long modern stuff mixed up with oldie western short trains at times..
All [email protected]!

SD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I almost got this shelving thing done, but it's been raining quite a bit today, so I'll finish up some other time. Here's how it's looking. 










Cliff


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

It's nice and sunny today, so I was able to take a better shot of the control cabinet. This has the in-process doors set aside, showing the interior. 










This will be the home for the DCC equipment, X10 modules, basic test gear, track maintenance tools & supplies, whatever needs to stay dry. 

After the doors, I need to put in the wiring (120v GFCI-protected receptacles, DCC 24v bus output, CAT5 for the antennas, etc.). 

The long shelves will stay open, and eventually contain plastic lidded bins for props & small buildings.

Cheers,
===>Cliffy


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Oh you are making me crazy here Cliffy. You know what my shop and garage look like, right?

OK what is your hourly rate?? >


Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Haha! Nice of ya to say that Jer.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

It's very blue : o )

Do you think you'll paint the underside as well as the backdrop, or just leave it?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Is there going to be lockable doors on the front of the shelves ?

JJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Howdy boys (as JJ says in the chat room  )

Dirk, no, that deck has been there almost 20 years, with no signs of degradation. So I'm only staining the exposed parts.

JJ, the long shelves won't have doors, but the corner cabinet will, and they'll be lockable.

Thanks fer asking --
CJ


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Maybe all the blue can get a coat of primer then turn your "artists" loose to make it look like the inside of a station or something. Oh, Where is the cooler going?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hey Alan,

No, the blue stays, the Better Half likes it now. 

Cooler will have plenty of room in that thar corner cabinet. Thanks for reminding me.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Next folks.. Cliffy builds a full covered roof over above deck..
No more rain in toy storage Land ..ever!
Blue roof..like sky above!!

All good..

Atlast... I can move materials home soon.. Pick up new 20ft Over Deck trailer in Tucson on Monday. Had a couple custom touches built on it.. Ready to be paid for.. Life moves onwards..
SD
Nice work Cliff!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Dirk.

After wiring and lights, the ceiling panels & gutters go in.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

<---- Wonders if "artists" looked at how large the "canvas" is now and reconsidered the contract ;-)


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Paint "1" canvas at a time...
Like on freight cars... 
Or..we form a Art Crew..meet at Cliffies.. Each does a color n shape..followed by more Arteests.. A flowing art form...

My Bad...
No.. 
.. Tickle back then..rubb good!!
Gotcha!!

In the desert! After 2 bike rides... 
SD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

This weekend I finished the main controls cabinet. Hung the doors, put on a latch and two hasps for padlocks. 










Also put up the upper backboards and the stock rack. 










I need to put a ceiling over this area, and a gutter and downspout. That will come next.

I think I said at the beginning that I was slow. Well, I'm sure living up to that on this project, haha!

Best to y'all,
===>Cliffy


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

What part of "Slow",, is you putting in regular work sessions towards great progress buddy.?!
No way.. no excuses here.. man up!! LOL
I'm not even working on my stuff... chained up..full stop!

What are the racks in the Fore ground..stock racks..guess I lost my place in "follow along here"?!!

Thanks Cliff...great job.. idea..execution... addition to make your layout enjoyable for use!!

SD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Yep, you got it Dirk, stock racks for tubing and pipe and rebar and whatever.

I always feel like I'm going slower than I should be, RR-wise, because I'm always wanting to build the infrastructure stuff first. And, I'm slow in execution. I like to putter and sketch, and go to the hardware store to get the screws or washers I don't have. Then discover the design didn't account for this or that next thing.

It's all fun for me though, just tedious maybe for the observer, haha!

C


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## Joe Mascitti (Oct 30, 2008)

Nice work Cliff. Looks fantastic!

Joe


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks very much, Joe!


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

CliffyJ said:


> Yep, you got it Dirk, stock racks for tubing and pipe and rebar and whatever.
> 
> I always feel like I'm going slower than I should be, RR-wise, because I'm always wanting to build the infrastructure stuff first. And, I'm slow in execution. I like to putter and sketch, and go to the hardware store to get the screws or washers I don't have. Then discover the design didn't account for this or that next thing.
> 
> ...



I am lucky I have a account at a Industrial Hardware Store. it's a little bit of a drive to get there but they usually have everything I want. When I buy Nuts , Bolts and Screws, and Washers, I buy them by the box. I have a stock pile of Hardware in my shop. I bought a bunch of small parts bins on E Bay and have fill them up I buy my Electronic stuff in batches of 100s

I just went through my Steel Storage rack and straightened it out. I found a bunch of steel I didn't know I had. I am now ready to start some new projects. 

Your Train storage area looks great and neat. 

JJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks JJ, I appreciate it.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Over the last couple weekends I've been putting up the "ceiling" over the shelf / controls area. It's more like an upside down roof, with roof panels catching the rain that comes through the deck, and sending it to a gutter.










I don't have the money for a nice professional under-the-deck system, nor the headroom. So this approach uses $13 roof panels from lowes. On the left side, the panels are held up by plastic brackets I made. On the right, where the panel has to tuck up beside the joist, I drilled holes for 30p galvanized nails. The nails fit loosely.

I've had to get the panels out a few times already, and will need to with some of the upcoming wiring. I poke the nails back, freeing that end of the panel. Then I tip that end down, and the panel comes free off its brackets. 










Yesterday (Sunday) morning, I used a garden hose from above to make sure all was draining correctly. And I was so relieved that it did. So that's the first tier of water-proofing. The second is that the plastic cabinet is now caulked at each seam. 

I wanted to make this as bullet-proof as I could, since my DCC and other electrical equipment is going here.

===>Cliffy


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Yesterday was pre-fabbing the power strips for the cabinet. It's just a Stanley 9-plug strip, plugged into a GFCI. The spacers and backboard allow wiring to pass behind. 











Today I installed these, and ran a new / dedicated circuit to feed them. 












I chose these strips because of the X10 modules, which need a little room, and need the outlet oriented with the ground lug down. I only need 1/3 of the outlets for now, but I figger WTH. 



===>Cliffy


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

CliffyJ said:


> I chose these strips because of the X10 modules, which need a little room, and need the outlet oriented with the ground lug down. I only need 1/3 of the outlets for now, but I figger WTH.
> ===>Cliffy


Nice!

If there's one thing I know, it's that you can never have too many outlets. I'd like to have one of those continuous strips of plugmold around the perimeter of my garage. A plug every 6 inches seems about right.


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

Nice work Cliff

Just some FYI from a former Pa. resident.
Watch your humidity in the cabinet over the nice winters in that part of the country, when closed up for long periods of time.
Ask me how I know.

Keep up the good work.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Dan! And I'm of the same opinion.

Jim, thanks for bringing that up. Others have in this thread, in the context of my train barn, re. need for ventilation. I guess I'm not understanding the phenomenon yet, so perhaps in the spring, I'll appreciate it more. And join the ranks of those that learned the hard way. Before that point though, I need to see evidence of need for vents and fans. But thanks for bringing it up, you've helped me look for it then.

C


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Depending on your needs, these round vents might be sufficient. 

I think it's a good guess that your cabinets are not "airtight" so it may not really be much of an issue. Probably a bigger issue will be all of the creepy crawleys that seem to make a home in these types of enclosures; ah nature!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

The last few days, I've focused on finishing the wiring, mainly cleaning up the DCC power cables, installing two new DCC (NCE) repeater-antennas, and installing the under-deck lighting.

The lights are cheaper "off-road" LED units, intended to be installed on a roll bar I suppose. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMS9KSI

Though advertised at 18 watt (1.5A @ 12v), I'm measuring about .56A per unit, so 6.7 watts. So they aren't the brightest. That said, they do nicely for my purposes here. My wife and I went out to see how they looked last night, when it was good and dark, and the area seemed lit up just fine, well enough to move trains around and get them into the barn ok.

To power these, I went with a 10A LED power supply. I had started with a 6A PS, but I didn't like how close to the edge the current was, so I replaced it with this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF4WYOS 

BTW, don't try dimming regular power supplies with X10 lamp modules. Ask me how I know. You have to get dimmable power supplies, and even then it's a you're-on-your-own and test-it-for-yourself matter, as far as X10 is concerned. 

Here's the general arrangement, with lights at each post. I also put tape light in the cabinet (3 rows adhered to a piece of angle which was then screwed into place).










The control method for both the DCC and lights is X10. Both plug into X10 "appliance modules," though the DCC stack needed an X10 noise filter as well. Eventually there will be other X10-controlled subsystems, such as model building lighting. 

Here is the (wireless) X10 control handheld, installed with a bit of velcro to its waterproof Bud box. There is one of these at either end of the deck.










So, I guess that concludes this under-the-deck project. Maybe next year I'll add to the "ceiling," we'll see. For the remainder of this season though, I need to clean the layout and get trains running. We have a neighborhood open house a month from now, and I have lots to do for that!

Thanks for viewing,
===>Cliffy


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Cliffy, that is looking absolutely amazing.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Chris, that means a lot, thanks!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So I take it that the inexpensive X10 system worked? You may find a few glitches, but the price is great considering what you can get.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Greg,

The DCC stack needed the filter (as you predicted, and I bought, maybe 18 months ago? Can't remember). BUT, the XPPF couldn't be plugged directly into the appliance module. When activating that channel, it double-clicked (on-off) with that arrangement. And without the XPPF, the AM serving the DCC stack wouldn't work at all.

The solution was to put a short extension cord between the AM and the XPPF. All worked perfectly. I used a 2' long extension cord I got at a trade show, at a booth for an extension cord manufacturer. They gave them out as samples.

After that, things started working, as I had hoped. 

So, yes. 

You've helped me through these discussions over the years, but -- as I think I've confessed at the beginning -- I tend to be slow in the application. So thanks again for all that X-10 advice, I'm now finally implementing it!

===>Cliffy


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