# Mainline Roadbed



## tomdunst (Aug 25, 2008)

When you see mainline prototype track, the ballast always raises it 4-6 feet off the surrounding ground. I have never seen that look in a garden railroad. Ballasted track looks flat on the ground with stones around it, or is tresseled.
Any ideas on how to get that "raised" look?
tom


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## curlyp (Sep 4, 2009)

I raise mine on a bed of ballast, I use 1/4" or smaller crushed granite. I pour it on the track and then wiggle the track up through it. I also tamp it in place with a 2x2. here is a link to a picture on my web site that shows the main above a siding.

http://web.mac.com/curlyp/Deis_Family/Xmas_09_Run.html#0[/b]


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## curlyp (Sep 4, 2009)

Well that link didn't work 
"http://web.mac.com/curlyp/Deis_Family/Xmas_09_Run.html or just http://web.mac.com/curlyp and work your way thru railroad to garden railroad to events to xmas run


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Many times they build the trestle and then dump fill over it. By the time the trestle rots out the fill will have settled. They might compact with a dozer, but I doubt that in some remote locations... Done for drainage to prevent tie rot and where elevation must be maintained 

I tried a dirt-fill run of 10', but it was Monsoon 1. fill 0., then I cast rock with cement all and it looked too uniform.. Now I use rock borders and dirt up to the ballast level or cribbing. 

I'd suggest a wooden form (or foam) and glued on rock/dirt or a texture coat of tinted cement. 
John


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

Tom, one point that needs to be pointed out, if your track is floating on ballast, yourtrack maybe subject to flooding during a heavy rain. My track is build up with ballast as is Curly's. If the location of where your track will be located will have some flooding during a heavy rain, use the highest point in that location and add a couple of inches for the top of the ballast. Dig a trench about 6" deep by 8" wide for single track and 16" wide for double track. Fill the track to the track grade level and slope the sides. I used 8" long galvanized metal spikes I purchased for the local lumber company for grade stakes. Since the stakes will not rot, you will have a grade mark to rebuild the roadbed as it detorates over time.


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## tomdunst (Aug 25, 2008)

Curly's looked good, but it's still not the clear, sloping edges you see on a mainline. I'll experiment with some of the ideas.
Thanks,
Tom


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

Tom,
I built my roadbed up starting with #6 lime stone for the roadbed, like you might used for a drive way. The ballast is medium chicken grit, which is crushed granite. 










Mark


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## tomdunst (Aug 25, 2008)

Mark, 
Could you give a little more detail. How deep did you dig down the #6. What can you see in the picture. Is that all chicken grit or a combination. 
Tom


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

Well how far did I dig down is a two part answer. On half of my main line I dug down about 1 - 2 inches, put down the weed barrier cloth, then #6 lime stone. I then put the track down and topped everything off with the chicken grit. Each spring I go around and put more chicken grit if needed. Now on the other half I had a problem that I won't go into, but I could not dig the trench so I just put weed barrier down on top of the grown, then #6, track and chicken grit. After 5 years, the non trenched section, about 600 feet, has had no more problems than the trenched section, which is about 400 feet of track. The last couple of years, for my expansions I no longer dig a trench based on the results that I have had. So that saves a little work and time, which helps my back. 

All of my track is maybe 1-5 inches above the ground. I have none that is at ground level. The section to the left of the following picture is trenched, the section on the right is not, including the staging yard and industrial area. The picture was taken late last fall after I took all my buildings in for the winter. 


Regards,
Mark


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## tomdunst (Aug 25, 2008)

OK, Thanks.
Looks great.
Tom


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