# Building a 1:20 Mikado



## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

When I attended the ECLSTS, Rich Yoder was showing off his production EBT Mikado. It's a gorgeous looking locomotive, but now that I'm retired, I find it even harder to justify spending more than I spent on my first car for an electric locomotive.  

The EBT had a number of Mikes. I liked the idea of building #12, as it was the smallest of the lot. Accucraft is planning to come out with one, but it won't be cheap.









The Aristo-Craft Pacific has 2.5" drivers - which scale out to 50" in 1:20, compared to the 48" drivers on the EBT Mikes. So, I decided to use this as a starting point.

MANY MANY Thanks to _*Dave Fletcher*_. His articles on building a locomotive gave me confidence to start this. He really has provided some GREAT guidance. I don't think I would have wanted to tackle this project without his advice.


First, I "won" a Pacific off of E-bay. It looks a bit small next to my 1:20 10-wheeler, but I sure like those drivers. I suspect I'll need another pair. 









I used my Scale Print utility to print out a full size (in 1:20) scale drawing of #12 to compare and to use in planning.









I was very disappointed with the gauge (way off!) and the oversize flanges, but that is now corrected.









I quickly decided that I would NOT make a scale model of the EBT locomotive. Instead, I'd use #12, #14, and #15 as inspiration. I had drawings for both, so I could use those to get an idea of what the parts should look like.

First up is the trailing truck. Looking at the one that came with the Pacific, I thought that it might work.









It sits too far back from the drivers, but overall didn't look too bad. I built a new frame to move it closer to the drivers and replaced the wheels with a 26" Sierra Valley set.









Then some parts were fabricated from brass and styrene to change the overall appearance.









Here's what the truck looks like when painted.









Next up, the tender. Jerry Barnes had suggested it as a good starting point.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I thought I'd start by modifying a Connie tender. It's a little too wide and not long enough, but I figured I could splice some parts together. I happily started cutting up the floor and added some braces to make it longer. I was cutting some styrene to fill the gaps and noticed that one end was about a scale inch narrower than the other. This would not be square, and I'm sure that would cause problems later. Not only that, but it was riding about 2" too high.

Well, it was time to just build the dang thing from scratch. I cut some acrylic for the base and added some 1/2" square pieces to frame it out. I built up bolsters from more acrylic and some styrene, and then added wood at each end.

I could have saved a lot of time by not trying to save some time. 

Here it is on one side, looking at the bottom.










I'm going to be using the Connie tender trucks - they're pretty close and they're available.










I decided to add some rivets to the side frames using some small pins I had. I added a coupler to the back as well as some NB that I got from Phil Dippel. Boards were added to the base using Welder contact cement.












I made some steps from brass strips and bolted them in place.










I started the interior form for the tender. I'll be adding some inner wall pieces before I clad it with some .020 styrene that will be embossed with "rivets".











Next I added the inner sides and the top piece. And some bracing inside - it's now pretty sturdy. Before I added the top, I drilled holes for the two switches - one for power, one for sound. 
I took the valves and toolboxes from the Connie tender - they're not glued in place just yet, I'll wait for the outer sides before doing that. For that matter, the white styrene structure is not glued to the frame yet.



















I flattened some brass rod to make the side hooks.










Then I drilled and used my pins to attach them to the frame.










I wanted a working tender water hatch. I started by laminating 3 pieces of .020" styrene around a couple of tubes I taped together - this gave me a curved base. Then, I cut the lid from some .040" styrene and attached it with some doll house hinges. Some small pins are used for "rivets".










I made this to open as it will be covering the on/off and volume switches. The hinge will allow me to easily get to them.









I'm not a big fan of detail that you can't typically see, but the brake cylinder on the tender cried out to be modeled as it can be seen from the side. Since I was going to model that, I decided I might as well add a few more visible pieces.









The rest of the underside will be bare as I hope to not see it in normal operations.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Tedious, tedious, tedious.







But, I've almost got one of the tender sides done. This is a shot of the left hand side. 










It's still being worked on, and I'll glue it in place when complete. It's .020" styrene and I need to curve it around each end.

I've completed the rivets for the tender. I glued the sides in place with a combination of Welder and some plastic cement.


























Some of the rows are a bit off, but I think the overall effect is what I wanted.


I put the edges on...some .060" half round styrene. 









I put the "kick plates" on the front and added a channel for the boards to hold the coal back. I carved some pink styrofoam and painted it black.









Finally, I built a ladder from brass strip and rod.









I made some tender cleats out of .020 styrene strips, and cut some .040 for the horizontal pieces. I used some extra nuts and bolts from the Accucraft couplers for the anchors. I used the lift bar from the old tender and put it in place using some eye pins.










I built a water valve out of some brass rod and tube and a snap.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

With the tender about done, it's time to start on the locomotive. The first order of business is to get the extra driver in place. I started with some brass strips screwed to the bottom of the motor unit.









I made them into L shaped braces by soldering another strip at 90 degrees to it. Then I cut some 1/8" styrene to hold the driver in place.









Then I cut some acrylic pieces to act as braces and also serve to keep the driver in place.









I made a styrene cover and screwed in in place.









The pieces in front will be used to hold the steam cylinders and chests.
You can "sort of" imagine what it might look like....if you stand back and squint.

















Speaking of steam chests and cylinders, Plastruct not only sells styrene tubes, but the end caps for them as well, thus saving me the trouble of cutting circles to fit. The chests still have another layer of detailing coming - more styrene and some brass, but I'm pleased with the overall appearance so far.



















I was originally going to use an Annie pilot, but it just didn't look as close to the prototype as I wanted. I made this one out of styrene, then added some brass and wood steps.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, 

That is really looking good - as usual. 

Mike


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Next, I decided to tackle the boiler. One of the issues is that the smoke box is a bit smaller than the rest of the boiler.









I ordered an 18" long 3" OD ABS tube from Plastruct. It would not be long enough to do both the boiler and smoke box. But, when I looked around the shop, I saw that I had a piece leftover from when I built the boiler for the ten wheeler.

The tubing is 5/64" thick. I calculated that if I cut out a strip about 7/16" wide, that would be just enough to make it so this could fit inside the long boiler tube.

I cut it out, filed the edges straight, and then glued it back together using Weldon 16.









This now fits inside the long boiler, giving me the look I want. 









I'll be covering the smoke box with some .020" styrene, after I emboss it with the rivets. Note that the drawing does NOT agree with the photograph of the prototype. The drawing is of #14; the picture is of #15. I'll be using the photo for modeling. 

I got some siderods from Barry - the key fact being that I can solder to these.
The Pacific side rod is at the bottom of the picture. Just above that is the new one from Barry. At the very top is the stuff from an Annie.









So, the first trick is to get it the right length.
First I cut the side rod about 5/16" in from the raised part of the rod. Length is obviously not that critical. 









Next, this stub is filed down on all four sides until it is small enough to slip into the rectangular tube.









This shows the progression:









Finally, it's the correct size.


















These seem nice and strong, and I can't even see the pins after they're filed down.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I got some M3 hex head bolts from Bolt Depot and replaced the Phillips head screws with the hex heads.









I put the rivets on some .020" styrene and then wrapped it across the smoke box; added builders plate, clean out and headlight bracket. The boiler supports are in place; they are shorter than the originals from the Annie, and I replaced the tiny Phillips head screws with hex head bolts and also added the deck brace flange around where it enters the boiler. It really serves its purpose as the deck no longer flexes.

I also added a step - it started off as a casting, but I didn't like the mounting bracket included. I filed that off and then soldered a piece of brass on to the bottom - this is stuck through the boiler. It ends up pretty strong.

I liked the base of the smoke stack from the Pacific, so I used that with a larger piece of tubing. I added some .080" half round to finish it off.









I used a piece from the original Pacific, greatly modified, to act as the rear support for the boiler.









I was able to frame the nut so the boiler is easily removable. I cut some styrene to fit and added some rivets. The angle piece will be supporting the floor of the cab. I added some bolts for support as the tender draw bar will be attached to this and I want to make sure it stays in place. The line on the boiler indicates the forward edge of the cab. I didn't add more rivets as the ones under the cab will be covered by an air tank.










I got the other side of the firebox done and mounted the floor of the cab in place.









I also got a start on the front of the smoke box. I cut styrene to shape and added some plastic NBW that I got from somewhere. I still need to work on the door. Then I have to figure out a way to mount it so it's removable.









This thing is going to be BIG. Good thing I have large curves on my layout.









It's going to be a bit longer than #15. The wheelbase of the Pacific adds about 1 1/2 feet to the overall length. 


Working on the smokebox. I put the "door" in a chuck and smoothed it out. I have an old tie tack for a number plate, but it was for #5. I ground that down. I have a 7 from Trackside Details and tried that out - nothing is glued yet. I still need the smoke box dogs and some hinges. I'm thinking of getting the dogs from Ozark and building the hinges.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I've spent some time trying to get the quartering right. I'm getting closer, but still some small binds. The wheels won't turn without the motor, so I can't freewheel it and check for binding. It's a long process for me.

Gary Buchanan had offered to make some appropriate domes for me; I had thought about using some Accucraft domes, but they'd have to be cut down. So, I sent some drawings to Gary and he turned out some absolutely gorgeous domes. When I saw the package had arrived, I immediately cut it open and took them out. Rushed up to show them to Jean. I don't think she was nearly as excited as I was.







Gary had tapped each dome with a screw; I quickly removed them and placed the domes on the boiler. Sweet!










So, I did some measurements; I had to change the spacing a bit since my boiler is about 1 1/2 feet longer than the one on #14 and #15, but I think I got it right. I drilled the holes on the top of the boiler for each of the mounting screws. Next, I drilled larger holes on the bottom of the boiler - this allows me to insert the screw on top of a screw driver and connect it to each dome. I also drill a hole and used a bell from an Annie.










The domes fit perfectly. The sand dome lids are separate pieces and are not yet fixed in place. I'm thinking of using some dress maker pins to hold them in place and act as the handle on the lid.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I ran it outside today. It's wired with RCS; no sound yet - awaiting a P5T. 

It's still got a little hitch at low speed, so I need to work some more on the quartering. I thought I had it right.








I also found that the screw holding the pilot truck was too low, so I had to redesign my whole pilot truck.

Remember when the Connie seemed like a large locomotive?


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Bruce, 

Welcome to the legion of retirees with the call - ' what happened to all this supposed free time I am supposed to have now' ! 

We all know what you have been doing now, and that is one enormous locomotive - , I have a suspicion as to how much time must have taken to get it as far as the photos show, and looks superb at the moment. I am sure it will look better when you finish it - quite magnificent: CONGRATULATIONS!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Haha. You're so right. Where is all that free time? I started this in May, and I will take it to Marty's. It just won't be done. It would probably look better with a cab. 

Thanks.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Bruce Chandler on 29 Aug 2009 03:49 PM 
Haha. You're so right. Where is all that free time? I started this in May, and I will take it to Marty's. It just won't be done. It would probably look better with a cab. 

Thanks. Hi Bruce,

I wondered what had happened to you - we now know!









But you have used the time to very good effect, and in between all the work on the loco an tender you have been saving yourself thousands of words with the photos- thank you for all of them, they are very good, and most informative.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce,
Your engine is looking terrific! I was just thinking that we hadn't seen much of this degree of scratchbuilding on MLS in recent months and _voila! _here you go and show us not only a beauty but the complete building photo log! Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing it at Marty's in a few weeks.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks. It REALLY helps now that I can paste via shortcut keys. For the longest time, it was not possible, and thus a real pain to post pictures. It's still a pain, but a lot less. 

This is a freaking huge locomotive! I'm not sure what possessed me.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Bruce, you are amazing! That will be one fine loco, although I will have to take a nap after I finish reading your final installemnt. Man, is that a lot of work! Worth it, but very tiring to a mere observer--and admirer like me.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce,

You never fail to amaze me. Your latest locomotive project really shows your scratch building talents. I too am glad to see a project of this magnitude showing up on MLS. Perhaps it will inspire others to get busy. I wish I could hurry and finish this blasted new layout so I can get back to the shop. Maybe this winter.

Doc


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## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

Absolutely wonderful work Bruce! 
What a great project. I really appreciate you taking the time to take and post images of the build. Please continue doing so, you've got my attention, 
Don.


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## cvngrr (Apr 28, 2008)

Wow! I can't wait to see what it looks like done! Great work!


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## silverstatespecialties (Jan 2, 2008)

*WOOOOWW!!!* 

Bruce, that is FANTASTIC!! 

Can't thank you enough for sharing with the rest of us, she's BEAUTIFUL!!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys. This has been a real learning experience. 

I was going to work on the cab today, but for some reason the pistons called to me.

It's probably overkill, with all the brass, but it was fun. Of course now I have to get them attached.


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## jonathanj (Jan 24, 2008)

Nice job - wish I had the space and time (got the motor block)

Out of interest, what minimum curves will the stretched block negotiate?

Jonathan


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, 
Sure been enjoying your build. I'm planning to make UP #844 got the plans ordered, but you are doing some of the same things I will be doing. I will have to turn my own wheels this time and make a motor block/etc. My Challenger build did not involve that, but I think I'm up to it. When you put the extra axle in, did you use any bearings? Pix did not show that.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry,
While I started with a current version Pacific block, my other set of drivers came from the older version. It's considerably different, but there are some similarities in the design. It's a self contained unit, so all the bearings and gearing are included; I did not attempt to connect it to the new block, and thus it is only driven via the side rods.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, that's just a magnificent series of images of the Mikado. I've enjoyed the entire sequence of the progress. It will be great to see it at Marty's.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys. I'm not sure what the minimum radius will be. I THINK mine is about 6.5' radius, and it seems to go around OK. I could blind the center drivers, if necessary. I haven't run it through my yard, yet.


I also decided I didn't like the nuts on those pistons, they were just too big, so I ended up removing them and replacing them with smaller nuts.

While waiting for some parts, I decided to start on the cab. I cut two rectangles of .040" styrene to size. I printed out a scale drawing of the cab, cut it out and used it as a pattern for the curve of the roof.









I don't have any good drawings of the back of the cab, but Jon Radder provided me some pictures that helped a lot.









I also started cutting out the front of the cab, but ran into a few problems. I could have sworn that the base that I had attached earlier was spot on, but it was off from square, so that had to be removed. My first cut of the front doesn't really allow the cab to be easily removed, so I'm going to re-do that as well. I can salvage some of that - I'll use the top of it for a base for the roof.


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Great work, Bruce, and a terrific documentary, too.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

OK. The cab pieces are cut. 









Next, I'll put some rivets on some .020" styrene for the front and the back and glue that in place. I'll assemble the cab and then add the rivet pieces for the sides.

The front of the cab fits in some slots I cut in the boiler.









Meanwhile, I didn't like the large nuts on the pistons, so I took them off and put on some smaller ones.









I'm thinking about making the 2nd and 3rd drivers blind. I don't know why I didn't think of that before.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bruce,

Super job on your build. Really enjoying this one, please keep the photo's comming.

Chuck


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking at the pictures I took when I visited the EBT, it certainly appears that the center drivers are blind. 

Probably not a bad idea with such a long wheelbase.

I don't have a lathe, so I took each wheel off and put in in my drill and used the Dremel and an assortment of files to remove the flanges.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Picture didn't show up the first time. Now I have to wait 60 seconds to fix it. Grr.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Meanwhile, work on the cab continues. I've got all of the rivets in place on the walls and trimmed out the windows. I still have one more door to make.


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Nice cab Bruce,embossed or inserted rivets? 
Regards 
David


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks. Those rivets are all embossed. A bit tedious, but I'm pleased with the results.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice neat job Bruce. I plan on blind drivers for my 844.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

It's starting to shape up a bit.

I put the inner layer of the roof on today. I used some .040" strips to form it. It still needs sanding a bit, then it will be covered with some .020" sheet that will be embossed with some rivets.

















On an unrelated note, I'm trying a new glue - Tamiya extra thin cement. Up to now I've used various ones: MicroMark Same Stuff, Ambroid, or Plastruct. The problem is that they all have humongous brushes. Here's a shot of the tiny Tamiya brush for comparison.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

This locomotive doesn't fit in any of my existing carriers. Since I plan to take it to Marty's (as is), I needed some good way to transport it.

So, another carrier was built. This one is 40 inches long.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

It still needs some clean up, but the rivets are embossed and the outer layer of the roof is in place. 









I'll also be adding some half round and some other details.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful. Will it be operational at Marty's? 

Mike


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Nope, but it will be "present".







I still need to quarter the drivers again, but I accidently left the power on and can't get the battery to full charge; I can only get it to 12+ volts. It's like one cell won't charge.


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Bruce Chandler on 12 Sep 2009 01:11 PM 


On an unrelated note, I'm trying a new glue - Tamiya extra thin cement. Up to now I've used various ones: MicroMark Same Stuff, Ambroid, or Plastruct. The problem is that they all have humongous brushes. 
Bruce -

Where'd ya get that cement?


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack,
I got mine from Hobbylinc - they've become my replacement for running over to Granddad's Hobby.
They have lots of the scratchbuilding supplies I like.


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, I miss Granddad's too... (*sigh*)


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, with the trip canceled, it did give me a bit of time to finish the cab roof.


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## trainbuffjr (Jan 11, 2008)

its looking great Bruce! keep us posted.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I went down a couple of wrong paths on the pistons, but I have finally got them sliding smoothly.










I still need to finish up back side a bit.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

My initial attempt at the main rods was not quite the look that I wanted. I used the ends from the Annie main rods and a brass rectangular tube.










Just a bit too spindly looking.


I thought about different ways to thicken this look and finally settled on adding some 1/8" x 1/32" brass strips on either side, with a 1/32" spacer at one end.









I covered the gaps with some .015" x .080" styrene strips.








That's the original rectangular tube just above.

Eventually, all of the running gear will be painted black.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, 

Continues to look good. thanks for sharing the detailed pictures. 

Mike


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## lincoln pin (Feb 24, 2009)

Great building log so far! I have a question on the cab roof. How did you do the finished (round over) on the cab roof. In looking back through the pictures I see the unfinished edge and then it has a rain gutter and a nice rounded edge. How did you do that?
Thanks,
Mike


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Dang. Lost the first reply.









Mike,
I made a couple of interior forms to match the roof curves at the front and back and glued them in place. 

Then I glued some .040" styrene strips across the forms to give me a base for the final roof. I used a sheet of paper to create a pattern for cutting this out of .020" styrene sheet.

This .020 sheet was embossed with rivets and glued in place.

I then took some .060" half-round and glued it in place around the edge of the roof. The rain gutter is just a piece of small angle glued to the top of the final roof.

Here's a comparison photo I took at Ric Golding's this weekend. Robbie's K-27 next to my unfinished Mikado:


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Sheesh, dat's big! Nice work Bruce.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Finally got around to working on this again. Ran into a few problems, so my progress was not quite what I had in mind.

I have been struggling with how to make some of the valve gear pieces, and finally hit on this solution.










At the top, is the original Union Link (Anchor Link) from the Bachmann Anniversary. It's a tad short, as the EBT one is about 2 feet long.

Below that, is the piece I made.

I had some 1/8" square brass tube. I cut this into 6 inch sections (scale). Next I ground away about 4" to leave some "fingers". I had some 1/8" x 1/32" brass bar and used it for the main part of the link. I ground some slots in each of the fingers and soldered it in place. It's rather strong and should look good once painted.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Sweet, can't wait to see it on the engine.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I did get some more work done today. I've been able to use a few parts from some Annie valve gear and used some brass strips, bars, and tubes to make the rest.










Next up is the combination lever. I'd like to get it tapered but I may settle for a straight bar. We'll see.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

It's starting to get there. Built the combination lever and temporarily installed it.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Bruce. I need to learn how to solder better.


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome work and great pics to boot!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

That is really some awesome work. Later RJD


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks. It's been a fun, but very long project.

Starting to make some more progress. I extended the Annie pieces a bit. I used some brass rod and tube. The original is on top in this picture.












The eccentric rod was cut in two and reinforced with some brass strip. I filled in the gap with JB Weld.











Once painted, it's hard to see the joint.










While the paint was drying, I decided to work on the smoke box front. I had obtained some smoke box dogs from Ozark, but ended up cutting off the tails as they didn't look quite right.











I filed down the ends and now they're closer to the prototype.


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh man this just gets better every time you post. 
Dave


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

Hi Bruce, I like your project presentation. I'm sure it was time consumming, but it serves to inspire others. The Mikado looks great. Even though I work at 1 1/2" scale, I am able to use your ideas in my own construction. Driver quartering is one of those tasks that I need improvement. I would like to ask you; how do you emboss the rivets in the tender? Are they done by hand or did you make a machine to do it? Also I notice your avitar looks like an Ingersol Rand diesel. I'm building a model of that engine now at 1 1/2" scale. It will be powered by 4 electric motors and a12V storage battery.
Ron from Mississippi


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys.

Ron, the riveting on the tender (as well of the cab and smokebox) is done with a riveting tool from MicroMark, along with a set of their dies.










There's some more information about this tool and techniques over here 

My avatar is a model of a Narrow Gauge boxcab based on the Ingersol Rand SG diesel. Very freelanced. It uses the Bachmann 45 ton diesel trucks and the rest is built up from styrene.












I started that project back in January 2006. You can view the log here. An article describing it's construction was published in the February 2007 issue of Garden Railways.

If I were doing it today, I'd probably build the body out of clear acrylic and then glue the styrene panels to that.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I started assembling the valve gear today. It's time like these that I appreciate the closer tolerances of the Annie valve gear. The Aristo drivers have rod attachment points that are way too long.










I probably should have cut down all of them, but I didn't. I'm going to have to cut this one done that holds the eccentric rod, as it is way too long. I just ordered a metric 2.5 tap, so I'll have to wait until that comes before I complete the assembly.

Meanwhile, it's painted, but chipping. I tried Blacken-it on it, but it really didn't take; I had to sand some places to make it fit.









So, while I wait for my metric tap, I decided to work on the back head "detail".

The one that comes with the Annie is just the right diameter, but a tad short.









I got some butterfly doors from Ozark and put them in place after I stripped off a bit of detail here and there. A styrene sheet filled the gap and I painted on my rivets, as I wanted a flattened look, not the distinct ones that my riveter will produce. The brass replaces some original plastic pieces.









I'm not sure if I'm going to be doing any more piping inside the cab or not. It will be hard to see if I do.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, regarding paint chipping on motionwork--you might try Neolube, very fine graphite in alcohol, available from MicroMark or PBL. I have used it for decades, first HO and now 1:20 live steam. It is great stuff, and also serves to keep things lubricated. 

Do you know how the riveting tool from MicroMark compares to the one by Northwest Short Line? 

Larry


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
I'll give the Neolube a try. That should work well. 

I really don't have a comparison of Micro-Mark to NWSL, except for price. NWSL says their press is $130. Micro-Mark is $68. The riveter is $70 from NWSL; $40 from Micro-Mark. 

The other difference is that I can order from Micro-Mark online. 

I do wish that the throat was a bit larger to accommodate larger sheets of styrene.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Neolube is very cool stuff, it gives a great approximation of gray steel, and it's very durable. I think Bruce wants black like the prototype though.

In this picture, the very light gray plastic siderods of the original have been painted with neolube.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Gray steel would look better than shiny brass.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Gray steel would look better than shiny brass 
Bruce, 

_(That Mike is looking really good! Wanna come over and finish the valve gear on my EBT #5?)_

There was a thread a while back about blackening brass with blacken-it and how difficult it was to get paint to stick to brass. 

I did a hatch for my new C-17 cab roof this week, and found the same. Sprayed the brass with testors 'grimy black' and it never dried, let alone adhered! I cleaned it off and did what that old thread said: polish the brass and use a primer. I cleaned it with wet-and-dry 600 grit (wet) and then hit it with grey primer. The 'grimy black' went on and stayed on this time! 

(Jack Thompson had some comments about blacken-it - something about pickling or cleaning the part in vinegar or it wouldn't work?)


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Automotive paint stores carry a phosphoric acid product for prepping steel and aluminum, which I use regularly. I have also found it to be very effective on brass. mixed to the stronger concentration. Just give the etched parts a warm water and detergent rinse to remove any residue. 
I keep a plastic peanut butter jar of solution on the workbench. 

Larry


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 17 Dec 2009 08:30 AM 
Gray steel would look better than shiny brass 
(Jack Thompson had some comments about blacken-it - something about pickling or cleaning the part in vinegar or it wouldn't work?) 

Bruce -

I've used NeoLube too, with good success. It does a good job of coating "prepped" metal parts with a very thin, but durable, film of what is essentially graphite. It kinda looks like gunmetal.


Be sure to bear in mind that it's an electrical conductor, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on what you want it to do. 

Good luck with your project - lookin' good so far.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, I got some Neolube and I _*really *_like the results.









It's a nice flat finish, and I like the dark gray color, instead of black. 


Unfortunately, my eccentric rods did not survive when power was applied, so it's back to the drawing board. I think I'll just make some new ones from brass.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I cut the eccentric rods out of a 1/16" thick brass strip, then glued the original end on top of it, just for looks.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm about finished with the air pumps. Now I have to figure out how to mount them on the boiler.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, you continue to amaze. 

Mike


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Bruce, 
I’ve been following your builders log since you began and I must say that your workmanship is extraordinary. Keep up the good work and thanks for the posts! 
Joel


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys.

I'm finishing the injectors today. 

I started with some brass tubes.











These were covered with JB Weld and then sanded down. A few other details were added.










Not all the pipes are connected yet.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Friggin Awesome!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Meanwhile, I decided to start on the air tanks. I've got two from the Annie, and I'll use them for the tanks under the cab. I used some putty to fill the holes and sanded off the molded on straps; I'll be using brass strips to create new ones.

The front air tanks are a bit larger. I thought about using the Bachmann K-27 tanks, since they're now selling those as parts, but they are $12 each! I had some 5/8" tubing and some .020" styrene. I put some rivets in the styrene and wrapped it around the tubes. A LOT cheaper and much more fun!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Finally, I got back to the brakes. I changed my initial design. I had some small brass tube and inserted it into some square tube; soldered in place so I could hold it. Tapped it with a 1 72 tap to attach the brake shoes. Then bolted the whole assembly in place.









Used the Neolube to color the brake shoes.











Meanwhile, I've decided to use the weight that came with the Pacific, but I'm thinking I only need to fasten it down in one spot; tightening this up should hold it in place.


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

Bruce, the locomotive is coming along very nicely. I'm really enjoying your updates. 
Alan


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I spent a bit of time trying to figure out the best way to attach the air tanks under the cab. I wanted to use some 1/64" brass strip I had, but gluing just made a mess. 

I ended up bolting the strips to the underside of the cab using some 0 90 bolts and nuts I had.



















The nuts are a bit too large for me to do the same thing for the tanks near the front of the locomotive, so I'm still trying to figure out the best way for them.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

A little paint makes this start to look better. Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer for the roof; Satin Black for the body.


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

What do you mean, "start to look better"? I think it's looked amazing from day one! Of course, I like seeing these ladies naked


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Bruce, 

Well done! I've been following this thread and have picked up some good ideas. I'd like to try this project. Anybody have a junker Aristocraft Pacific so I can get the extra set of drivers???? Aristocraft doesn't seem to have them in stock. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

Amazing! I have been following this whole project and you are spectacular.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys. It's fun to think I've inspired someone!

A few days ago, I put two pieces of solid 1/8" square brass through the boiler to act as supports for the air tanks.

These were glued in place with JB Weld and left to dry. Once dry, I drilled 2 holes in each end. The hole furthest from the boiler is tapped for 0 90 bolts. The hole closet is drilled for 0 90 clearance.

I decided to go ahead and paint the air tanks; they'll get another coat when I paint the locomotive, but I wanted to make sure that everything was covered with paint. 

Running boards were cut from .060" styrene. I fashioned some steps from brass and bolted them to the front of each board.

I cut some 1/8" x 1/64" brass strips to hold the air tanks in place. The styrene running boards were laid across the brass supports and used 0 90 hex head bolts and nuts to attach the brass strip to the inner hole.









The brass strip is wrapped around the air tank and slipped in between the running board and the brass support. A 0 90 hex head bolt holds it in place. Tapping the hole made it a LOT easier than trying to attach a nut to that bolt. (Yes, this IS the other tank.)

















The brass strips hold the air tanks tightly and I haven't even had to glue them in place. The hex head bolts look right at home on the top of the running board.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, 

Sweet. I take it the JB Weld did the job? 

Mike


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, the holes toward the cab got elongated as I was trying to drill through the weight. I just clamped the supports in place and applied JB Weld. It sands down nicely and you really can't tell.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I need to thank Gary Buchanan who has really provided a lot of information to me and many thanks to Pete Thornton and Jon Radder who have supplied me with some nice detailed pictures.

I did the hydraulic lubricators today...









Then started work on the steam turret. None of the pipes are connected, I just threw some up there to see what it would look like. I still need to build the generator.

















It still needs a bit of clean up, but I'm really happy with how it turned out.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I needed to figure out how to mount the air pumps.

I first built some brackets, one for each pump out of some square rectangular tube. I had some channel left over from another project and cut a small section and glued and pinned it to the back of each pump.









I drilled the bracket for some pins and glued them to the boiler.









The pumps will eventually be glued to the brackets, but I need to finish the plumbing first.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a generator from my old Annie, but it looked a bit too anemic for the Mikado. 

I cut off the ends, added a couple of Plastruct discs, glued the ends back on. I used some 3/32" tube for the smoke stack. Kept the base, but I needed to add a few legs to the generator after the discs were added.

Close enough.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Started doing some of the piping on the engineer's side.

The cab is not in place right now; here's the back end:










I used some pieces from the Annie piping, and filled in with some 1/16" brass rod:


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

OK. Got a bit more done on the engineer's side. Whistle and pop valves added, clean out plug, and started work on the linkage for the Johnson bar, as well as a tank under the running board.









I have been trying to figure out how to connect the tender water lines to the locomotive and finally sat down and figured out a solution.

Started with a bunch of brass tubes, each of which can slide into the other. A Plastruct tubing cap, some magnets and NBW.

I also have some black surgical tubing which is very flexible. I glued one of my tiny cylindrical magnets into the tubing. The brass was cut to length and a slot cut into the largest tube to hold the magnet.









Assembled, it looks like this. The black surgical tubing will come from the tender; the brass rod on the right will be attached to the loco.









The surgical tubing fits into the brass tube and is held in place by the magnet.









It should look better when it's on the locomotive.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Fantastic work Bruce--it just gets better and better. Really great attention to detail but I really love the ingenuity

Hope to see it at ECLSTS


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Kudos, keep it up, can't wait to see it after paint and weathering!!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I *THINK *I'm done with the engineer's side. I've probably left out something important...







There *IS *a lot more that I could add, but I think this conveys the impression of a locomotive.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I was told that I had the wrong pilot deck in place- I was using the one from the Annie. I don't know why I didn't see it. Anyway, tore the old one apart and got the new pilot deck painted and installed. Also added the air hose.









Cut the running boards for the fireman's side and installed them.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking model Bruce!! Just terrific!!


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Bruce, 

Your building a great looking model and your efforts are clearly notable , thanks for sharing. 

Michael


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## Mark L Horstead (Jan 2, 2008)

I haven't had much time to spend in here for the last couple of years. Tonight was a chance to catch up a little - and well worth the time spent. Thanks. 

It'll almost be a shame to paint it, and hide all of the work that went into it, but I eagerly await seeing the final result.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Added the grate shakers to the floor of the backhead. Also fashioned the step for the fireman to open the doors.









Another shot of the backhead.









I started work on piping for the air pumps today. It takes awhile to make the connections, but I like the overall look. The handles came from pieces off of the donor Annie.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, 

Continues to impress. 

Mike


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks.

It's getting closer.

Finished the plumbing on the fireman's side.









Added some detail in the cab. Not sure why, as it really won't be visible. I guess I just wanted to use those Annie parts...









Used some Magic Scuplt to make the armrests on the cab. They still have to be painted.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm speechless, and that is rare


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Every time you update this, it gets better and better. I'm really enjoying what you do with this engine!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

You're not just a kidd'n! (*Whew!) This is some serious modeling here!!


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

The snow is melting, but my track is still covered, so I can't take good pictures out side.

But, it's finished....finally.

Here's a shot of it above the plans that I used.









The fireman's side









Engineer:









Tender:

























I'll take more pictures once I can see my track again.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

What??? No sanding levers?  

That turned out great, Bruce. I'm actually a bit bummed to see it finished, as I was enjoying watching it come together. I'm thinking next, you gotta do an F standard gauge loco... 

Later, 

K


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Too funny. I actually thought about doing the sanding levers....but I think I ran out of energy. 

Thanks.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful work Bruce. You've outdone youself. I'm looking forward to seeing it at the ECLSTS.

Doc


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Damn fine job Bruce!! Damn fine!!


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Bruce, 

Excellent that looks superb, I hope it fits your turntable by the way - I am sure it will. 

Most impressive.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I haven't been following your thread, but I'm astounded at your beautiful detail!


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great work. 
Dave


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

What a great job! The weathering and paint really brings it home... 

Bruce, 

Would you to contact me via PM please? 

Michael


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Gorgeous! I was surprised to see it finished and painted so fast. You must have skipped a couple of steps in your documentation. 

Now, how does it run?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Gorgeous! I was surprised to see it finished and painted so fast. 
I'll second both those thoughts !


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks to all. What a fun project. 

It runs rather nicely, but only inside right now. My track is still under snow, though I can see a few buildings poking up. 

The painting was the quickest part. Shake the Krylon and spray. Let it dry, turn it over. Repeat a few times in different directions.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Finally, some outdoor pictures.

The turntable is just big enough.


























































It's been a fun project.

I've got to tweak a few things to make her a better runner, noticeably the pilot truck. I also have to adjust some of the vertical curves on my layout.


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Excellent build!!







The paint really makes the difference, doesn't it. I really like the weathering too, it looks "lived in", and that's in a good way.









Jason


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW, those outside shots really bring it to life. Nice job Bruce!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Sweet layout too


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Indeed! That turned out fantastic!! Bravo!


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Fantastic job on the mike. She looks great


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## BrianTFowler (Sep 20, 2012)

I am kicking around the idea of doing some EBT in 1:32n3 scale. the 36" in narrow gauge works out to about 32mm which is O gauge. I am curious how close a standard gauge light Mikado would be to one of the EBT versions. where did you get your drawings you worked from?


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

That would be a pretty neat project. I cannot remember where I got the drawings, but if you send me a message to bdc at jbrr dot com I can send you what I have...


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I just noticed that a lot of the photos are missing from the earlier posts here. I think I had changed the file locations awhile back; however I can not edit these posts here to fix them. If you'd like to see all of the build, I have edited the posts over at another site to show all of the photos: http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/11198/search/view/page/1


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

where did you get your drawings 
There are drawings of the EBT Mikados in a couple of old RR magazines. I have two, I think. (They are in MD and I'm in FL. Let me know if you want me to find them in December when I get home!) There's a reference page on Chirs' website: http://www.spikesys.com/EBT/mag.html 

Here's a couple of them: 
Model Railroader 
Sep 1961, p. 42-45 

Railroad Model Craftsman 
Nov 1975, p. 54-60 

I believe the FEBT Store has a few drawings also.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

For anyone interested here's a PDF of Bruce's topic.

Building a 1:20.3 Mikado (PDF 5.2MB)[/b]


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SteveC on 20 Nov 2013 03:41 PM 
For anyone interested here's a PDF of Bruce's topic.

Building a 1:20.3 Mikado (PDF 5.2MB)[/b]


Hey, that's pretty neat, Steve. Thanks!


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Bruce... beautiful engine. Hope you will bring it to an "EBT" meet next year on the IE&W Ry. We have #14 as an "in service" freight locomotive weathered by Geoff Ringle, as well as #15 as a shiny green loco for pulling excursion trains. NO #12 in live steam.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr Rivet on 20 Nov 2013 07:25 PM 
Bruce... beautiful engine. Hope you will bring it to an "EBT" meet next year on the IE&W Ry. We have #14 as an "in service" freight locomotive weathered by Geoff Ringle, as well as #15 as a shiny green loco for pulling excursion trains. NO #12 in live steam. I'll be happy to bring it out, Jim. I do have some cars of my own for it to haul...


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

NO #12 in live steam. 
Is that a NO as in 'no way' or No. as in #12 ? #12 has been seem running around the IE&W . .


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## general1861 (Jan 22, 2010)

Bruce, Where did you get the prints that you used to build the Mikado..You have done a very nice job!!! 
Travis


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Travis, 
I got the main one from September 1961 Model Railroader. I picked up some others from friends or from the web.


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## Lake Valley #1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Absolutely fantastic, Bruce! Great log...excellent build! I only wish I could build like you do. I've been impressed by the articles detailing work you do in GR and you have 'goaded' me into a 'bash' of a Bachmann ten wheeler from the stock 1:22 up to 1:20.3 with a 'straight' boiler. I saw your ten wheeler in the lead photo for the article about your turntable build, deduced that it was made, not bought, and just had to have one like it! So, thanks for the 'push'; it was fun to do and now I have one pretty much like yours, except black with a wooden cab. Thanks for this really neat log. Jeff


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Lake Valley #1 on 05 Dec 2013 09:00 PM 
Absolutely fantastic, Bruce! Great log...excellent build! I only wish I could build like you do. I've been impressed by the articles detailing work you do in GR and you have 'goaded' me into a 'bash' of a Bachmann ten wheeler from the stock 1:22 up to 1:20.3 with a 'straight' boiler. I saw your ten wheeler in the lead photo for the article about your turntable build, deduced that it was made, not bought, and just had to have one like it! So, thanks for the 'push'; it was fun to do and now I have one pretty much like yours, except black with a wooden cab. Thanks for this really neat log. Jeff 
Jeff,

Thanks. It's always fun to inspire someone! I'm glad you like it. If you need more information, I did two build logs for the 1:20 ten wheeler: 
1 - Original
2 - Rebuild


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## Lake Valley #1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Beautiful as usual! So, so sorry about the 'crash' though, I haven't had that yet...almost did when my Connie fell off the work table into the dirt out in the yard; about a 2 ft drop. Man, was I steamed! I set my Connie up ala Kevin S. Tuscarora #3. (Yeh, I'm a 'copy-cat'. lol) What I did with my ten wheeler conversion, was basically what you did with yours, except I didn't have the 'spare' Connie tender, so I widened the tender out to 4 3/4". Made a world of difference in the appearance. The loco was pretty much rebuilt from the drivers up; wooden cab with removable roof, repiped the interior of the cab and added guages, added piping to the exterior, mostly the compressor and generator, made the cylinders slightly larger diameter with brass bushings for the piston rods, rebuilt the piston rods with 3/32" welding rod, and built all the valve gear because I like Walsherts Valve gear, and being a 'Big Hauler', it had none at all! I'm going to 'revisit' the valve gear, though as I'm not totally happy with it. When I did it the first time, I didn't have the knowledge or the tools to do it right. It doesn't look bad, just 'amateurish' kinda. I think I'm fixed up to try it again now, though. Anyhow, glad to see your ten wheeler 'up and flyin' again, she's a beauty! Jeff


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