# Loose ties, spikes on switch



## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Hi guys. Please see link to video:





This switch is 3-4 years old. If anyone has suggestions on how to tighten-up the ties please let me know.
I though i'd square-up the switch as best as i could, then take one tie off at a time and put some glue under rail and in spike holes.
Thx.
Marty


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Longer spikes long enough to go through the tie and be bent over below.

It would help to indicate manufacturer, type of tie, etc.

Greg


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

If was made by Switch Crafters. Ties appear to by composite material.
Thx.
Marty


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ok, I will assume the ties have not rotted.

It's hard to tell, have the spikes loosened only or have the heads rusted off?

Greg


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Spikes are loose.
Thx.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

sounds like the holes in the ties have enlarged. strange... new spikes as I indicated.

Greg


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## RGSNH (Jan 13, 2008)

If it is switch crafters, which I think it is, I would consider replacing the ties with another material. I to tried these composite ties for outdoors and did not find that they stood the test of time, and broke down. when I tried to re spike the ties in many cases broke apart. I ended up cutting ties from PVC and replaced them all. seems to be holding up very well. I have tried cedar ties both treated and untreated as well. they work for a while but ultimately needed replacement.

Al P.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Another suggestion would be to but some longitudinal battens underneath nailed to each tie to keep them in place.










But if the ties are deteriorating due to UV exposure, then you will have to replace them all eventually. Having a sample in front of you will make it easy to cut some ties (redwood lasts longer than cedar,) and nail them to battens.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Some of the composite material is sawdust held together with glue. When in the shape of a standard 2x4 there's often a thin coating for protection from the elements and keep the surface smooth.

I've found that this type of composite will absorb moisture in the outer layers where you have basically raw sawdust.

Greg


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I renovated 6 old switches with oak ties and rail held with brass pins through holes in the rail base, where the brass pins are loose and coming out the following way: I made U shaped clips from copper electric wire bought at the harware store (1,5mm diameter) and drilled 1,5 mm holes though the ties then inserted the clips from the underside and crimped them around the rail base. Some of my points date back to 1979 and have been outside ever since. As I renovated each point I replaced worn out or rotten ties as I went. There are no more derailments since, as the critical dimensions are held since three years now.
By the way I tried battens a long time ago but they create more problems than they solve because they warp from constant exposure to humidity and sun, and as my track is ballasted this really created big problems with the track lifting then the ballast slipping under and then you have no way to fix it.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> with the track lifting then the ballast slipping under and then you have no way to fix it.


I used a very small trowel sold with spackling compound. It got under the ties or battens and allowed me to clear out extra ballast.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've used a long screwdriver to lower ballast under track, but that tool looks perfect... any excuse to go shopping at Home Despot.

Greg


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I have a very useful tool for ballast: it is a japanese rake blade that broke off. Cost me nothing and it is real handy to remove ballast from under the ties, as well as moss. I leave it inside the junction of the branch line so I can always find it in a jiffy.
By the way I have found a neat solution to save my aching knees the yearly hastle with the moss: I use the kind of Plastic sheething sold for renovating bathrooms on the cheap these are about 15" wide by 4 meters long and make a perfect cover for the portion of the line subject to moss invasion over the winter. The only inconvenience is that you have to remove them to run. This has nearly eliminated the hastle. and costs peanuts.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So what does a Japanese rake blade look like?

A traditional one is made from wood:


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

I got some Gorilla glue to try and glue rails to ties. Then notice many of the ties are warped. Gonna consider replacing ties w/ redwood.
Took a small section of rail and glued to piece of plywood as a test. Prying them apart caused section of plywood to pull out. Glue seems to work well.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

What we French call a japanese rake is a leaf rake for leaf removal with springy flat metal strips that fan out and are bent down on the ends. Its not worth making a photo just to show, it's a typical household garden tool . very common, mine broke one of thestrips and instead of throwing it away I found a great use for it.

On another subject: Battens are a totaly useless proposition in these times when wood is kiln dried and therefore will warp. Unless you don't use ballast. I tore my experiment with them out around 1994.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It's worth the effort to understand what you are saying... what you describe is kind of the standard rake here... it is in no way the same construction as a traditional Japanese rake though, so that's why I asked. Interesting how some countries name things.

Here's what I believe you are talking about:










This is just a typical rake usually used for leaves.

There are "stronger" types that do not have flexible tines:










Many "Japanese" rakes are the special ones for making the regular furrows in gravel in Zen gardens.

OK, Now that I know the type of rake you are talking about, if you get one with plastic tines, you can work on a live DCC layout too.

Greg


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