# Lighting Outdoor Structures



## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

Can someone give me some detailed instructions on how to light my buildings? I am not an electrical engineer so it will have to be a pretty simple and hopefully inexpensive method. My railroad is battery operated - no electricity.

Thanks,

John


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Get solar lamps and lengthen the leads from the solar panel to the LED. Save light and solar panel and light sensor for auto on in the dark, ditch rest. 
Put the LED in the building and the array behind where it gets sun. 
You're done. 
Kevin did a GR story on these lights.... and hiding the sun catchers. 

John


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

John, do you remember which iaaue it was in?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Nope, but google might.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I use LED Christmas tree lights. You can use 3 in series with a 9 volt battery and no additional electronics. They will burn continuously for about a week. Or you can use 1 with 3 volts. I just hook them up if I want to run at night. Not as cool as solar cells but I don't use them that much.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I haven't had any lights in my buildings for years, but when I did, I used the LGB lights that they sold for interior lighting in their passenger cars. I think they were rated for 18-24 v. I then just taped into the nearest track to power the lights. Or run a line from the constant DC posts on your power supply. If you go this route, make sure they are the screw in bulbs, not the ones with two pins coming out the base. I think those are for only 5v. SORRY, I missed the no track power! Chuck


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Many people just use a "Malibu" transformer and direct burial cable. You can also use the lowest wattage "Malibu" lights, or a host of other lights that are out there such as those sold by "Model Power." They offer "stick-on" lights in sets of up to 20 (maybe more).


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I hear a lot about using these solar things and cutting them up. My personal experience with them being used as they were designed has been less than ideal. I've put several around the backyard and they seem to work good for the first year, then it all heads south. Those reacharable batteries just don't last and are expensive to replace.


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I can concur with the statement about solar panels with rechargeable batteries, especially the landscaping lights.
You can get 1-2 years put of them and then they die one by one. Some have water in them but most show no
obvious signs of failure. Changing rechargeable batteries doesn't seem to help so I suspect the issue is with
the panels. They are fairly cheap in the big box stores so I guess you get what you pay for.

Wayne


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Next best might be button battery lights. 
My sister found some fake candle lights.. white plastic about a quarter in diameter, a 1/4 " tall with a frosted flame shape sticking up. Drop in for special times... 

Without electricity... limited choices, solar or battery. 

John


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By placitassteam on 18 Jan 2014 12:44 PM 
I use LED Christmas tree lights. You can use 3 in series with a 9 volt battery and no additional electronics. They will burn continuously for about a week. Or you can use 1 with 3 volts. I just hook them up if I want to run at night. Not as cool as solar cells but I don't use them that much. 
If you dont have a ton of buildings, that could be a really easy way to go.
just install an on-off switch to the back of each building, perhaps on the rear wall up near the back roof overhang, 
mostly hidden from view, yet easily reachable by just leaning down..(dont have to remove the roof or anything to get to it..)
each building has its own LEDs, 9-volt and on/off switch.
when you want to run at night, flip the switch on the buildings, then flip them back off then you are done.
If they will burn for a week continuously, then one 9-volt per building will easily last a whole season..
then for climates where operations shut down for the winter, just remove the batteries until spring.

Scot


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## jcopanos (May 29, 2010)

I use low voltage (like Malibu) lights in all my buildings and I have a few. They now have LED low voltage fixtures that hardly use any wattage, so one timer will cover all or most of a layout. Check HD or Lowes. The only down side is running low voltage wires but I am in a relatively new house and when I started this layout, I laid sprinkler wire bundles beneath the tracks and I am totally wired. I also laid direct burial 110v wiring and I have several sidings/buildings with outlets where I can pull in and charge batteries while I run another engine. 
Check out the LED low voltage fixtures at Lowes/HD. The system is relatively inexpensive. 
Jim


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I know some folks wouldn't agree with me, but I'm happy with my solar lighting. Some have been outdoors year 'round for more than three years and still going strong, such as the(pneumatic) switch control stand:











I watch my Harbor Freight flyers and pick up a set of their cheapest set of solars when they're on sale at ten for $20-25. If nothing else, I get replacement batteries for about two bucks each and they're good for at least 2-3 years. Most do better since I bring them in for the winter. Look for just what you see here, bronze circles on top of a black plastic "stick".

And since I accumulate a good stock of replacement parts, I've been known to take some chances, like cutting out a solar panel and chipping off the edges to fit into, say, the top of a chimney:











Once I got it to fit, I just left the rest of the unit hang by the wires - there's not a lot of weight involved. This is my passenger station. Two chimneys, all of five bucks spent. After four seasons, one of them stopped working last fall. I'll check it when I bring it out in spring. Most likely it just needs a new battery. Two bucks divided by four seasons = not much.

And I get a kick out of seeing my buildings lighted up every evening, even if the mosquitos have driven me inside.

JackM


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

I am planning on lighting my first outdoor structures this spring. I want things bright, planning on using standard Christmas LED's connected to a stand alone phote cell (like what is used for regular outdoor lighting). Wiring will be simply 120 from my house to photocell. Christmas lights will be connected to photocell, planning on all connections being standard house plugs. 

If this seams over your head suggest the following (really easy). Use outdoor LED Christmas lights (as many stands as you want). Run the stands to all the places you want to light up. Any LEDs you don't want lit (say between building. whatever as most of the strand is laying on the ground between point you want to laminate) simply paint then with some dark paint. Cover all these painted LEDs with your ground cover and presto instant lighting. To turn on your lights, plug the Christmas light into your homes exterior outlet. To turn them off, unplug. Cannot thing of anything simpler and fool proof. Sometimes the simpler the operation the better!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

As you sure having house current sitting on the ground is safe? You might need to consider the possible legal problems if a visiting kid gets a shock. Most likely state electrical code will insist house wires be contained inside conduit with waterproof outlet boxes. Rain is a good conductor. 

Malibu runs on low voltage for just this reason. 

JackM


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## iaviksfan (Dec 27, 2007)

all electronics or Harbor Freight carries rechargeable AA's at good prices.......Menards Home improvement stores used to have a cheap set of solar lights, 6 for $5? I picked up two packs...only messed with a few of them. The ones I put in buildings have lasted 2 years now... I will replace those batteries this spring. And yes, its nice to see them lit up at night......


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

For these solar light sets (like the kind from Harbor freight) 
how long could you extend the wires between the solar panels and the lights? 
I have a spot that would be ideal to mount several solar panels, but its about 30 feet away from the railroad.. 
im thinking that would probably be too far to run low-voltage wires underground.. 
anyone know the maximum distance it could reliably go? 

Scot


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Scot - 

The individual solar units such as I use are dealing with merely 1-1/4 volts. The longest wire I've used is, at most, a foot. Obviously, not gonna get thirty feet. But if you're talking about a for-real solar panel, such as thos 12 volt panels HF sells, I would expect you'd have useable voltage at the end of your 30 feet. Probably even need something to reduce it. But then you'd have an auto battery and some sort of control device?? 

JackM


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

If you upsize the cables, such as go to 18 or 16 ga from the 28 or 30 ga used, I expect the long run can be done. Cheapest and easiest way is to try one with a spool of speaker cable. A 50 ft roll costs about $5. 

JP


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## inganeer (Nov 30, 2012)

I bought a DC 12V Super Rechargeable Li-ion Battery Energy Storage Pack 9800mAh on eBay for $24.50. You can permanently mount the DC power pack on the outdoor layout and recharge it with an extension cord from a 110V outlet at the house, garage, etc. I hid mine in a delivery truck along with a light sensor and timer so the lights come on at dusk and operate for 2 or 3 hours - you could also mount them in a building with a removable roof.. Unless you have a bunch of LED's, say over 1000, the pack will operate for a long, long time without recharge. You can also use the power pack (without the light sensor and timer) to operate switches, motors, audio sources - anything powered by 12VDC and less than 1 amp draw. I concur in using landscaping direct buried conductors ( available at HomeDepot or Lowes) - just be careful with the polarity; Any direct buried cable of 18 AWG or better can be used, and some have colored wires to keep the polarity straight. I have not had much luck with cheap solar systems; however, Harbor Freight has some good solar panels that could be used with a controller to power a layout. All Electronics has LED's of all descriptions and at reasonable price (buy em by the hundreds - you'll use them.) I used quick disconnects to be able to remove most of the buildings for the winter - again, be careful with the polarity. Think of electricity as hot and cold water piping. Get a cheap voltmeter at Harbor Freight, learn to use it to check continuity, and test your circuits before connecting the building lighting to the power source. In most cases, the LED's won't fry if you cross wire the circuit - they just won't light. They will fry if you hit em with voltage higher than their rating, so be sure to buy LED's that are pre-wired for 12VDC. That's probably more than you wanted. John Easterwood, Chief Engineer, Ding Dong to Flat Railway, "All Across Bell County" Texas.


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## Postalbiker (May 23, 2014)

cant you just wire battery operated lights to a switch?


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

All of my building and turnout lanterns were wired into my low voltage outdoor lights, so everynight, the whole village and the signals/lanterns were all lighted, very enchanting. Even without any trains running. On my reboot to 7/8ths scale, I am hunting a USA style switch lantern to put on my turnouts, instead of the German style that comes factory on the LGB turnouts. I like having the lighted lanterns on my turnouts. Mike


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Like Mike, I have all of my building and yard lights wired into my Malibu garden lights. One thing I did do that enhanced the overall effect was, I put the directional Malibu lights high on the fence, with blue filters. These shine down on various area's and give the effect of moonlight. The building lights still show, but you can still see a lot of detail.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

For those of us who like to use solar panels that charge up a battery and automatically turn them on when it gets dark -- Harbor Freight has my favorites on sale til the end of June. The bronze "solar light on a stick", normally about $30 for ten are $20 for ten.

I like them 'cause they're easy to take apart, stick the battery and teeeny PC board inside your building with the LED and disguise the solar panel somewhere. The batteries last about two years, so make them accessible when them need changing. If the LED is too bluish, a thin coating of Tamiya "Transparent Yellow" paint will make them look incandescent.

At two bucks each, you can afford to light everything up after dark.

jackm

If the shelf has the normal $29.95 price, you can usually find a stack of the current fliers near the door.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Wire your lights together to a larger wire and wire it to car battery, hide battery
Either behind a bush or hide in a large building. For the advanced use a 
Nite/day switch to turn on at night, or dc timer, and get a solar battery charger
From harbor freight, will keep battery fully charged,
Hint go to auto store, get a battery return, that has all cells good but low cranking
Amps, still 12 volts just ain't got much ump, but will run lots of lights,


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