# Need help



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I need help taking my LGB Mogul apart to check the motor.

I see two screws that come in from the sides above the drivers, but what other screws are there that allow the gearbox and motor to separate from the boiler?


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

There are a ton of write ups on this here in the forum so i am going to keep this short and sweet. 

- One screw directly behind the pilot truck on the bottom of the gear box , holds down the smoke box and boiler. 
- Two screws on the sides , above the drivers. 
- Two screw that go up into the cab from the bottom towards the back of the loco. 

Thats it, a wopping 5 screws. 

Things to look out for are, 
- brass pilot supports 
- wires attaching the board in the cab to the gearbox( I like to remove the headlight screw and then slide the head light and railing forward to detach the cab from the boiler. This allows you to un plug the chuff sensor and drop the gearbox completely. Makes things easier to work on.) 
- From watching one of your videos , you have a newer mogul with digital sound. So it should be a four pin arrangement. Unplug all four wires and apply power to the outer two pins. If the wheels turn. You have a good motor. 

The Roundhouse RnR


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Round 

I did a google search for threads that had this info, but didn't find any, so I really appreciate your help. 

Thanks for the help.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I did the same search, and surprisingly, nothing helpful shows up, only 4 hits and none about disassembling... strange since I seem to remember them too... 

Great advice from the group...


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Also, it is possible that the screw being removed behind the pilot truck will allow enough slop in the gearbox cover for the front axle to come out of quarter. Just be careful. As long as there are no prying or harsh movements, it should be fine. Its never happened to me but it apparently happened to others and is worth mentioning.The key here is to not pry up on the cover. The Roundhouse RnR PS name is Kyle incase you where wondering.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, with your help, I got the boiler separated from the chassis. 

Put power to the two outer pins and the motor runs fine. 

I didn't un-hook the chuff. 

Without tearing it down further, I don't see any burn marks or hot spots on the circuit boards 

So, what's next?


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

In your other thread , you said that you seen smoke come from the tender? Where exactly? The bottom, near the plug,or from inside? I would start there. Tender has four screws from the underside and the shell will pull off. Be careful of reverse light wires and aux power wires that are attached to the shell. 

Even though the tender doesnt short things out, where there is smoke there is fire as they say. If smoke came from the tender , there may still be damage. 

Also, still pull the boiler away from the cab, there could be something you are missing from the top of the cab board. Like I said before, pictures would be a big help ... if you have access to a camera. Take pictures of the inside of the tender and the cab board. It will help me determine what configuration was used on you particular mogul. 

The Roundhouse RnR


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

The smoke came from the front of the tender. Not necasarily from the plug but maybe around it. 

I'll work at getting the cab off the boiler and then take the top off the tender. 

Then I'll take pics and post them.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

ok how do I get the cab off the boiler? 

I removed two screws underneath


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

That would be great Randy!


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I got the cab off the boiler. Still don't see anything wrong, but in taking it apart, a black wire coming from the front of the boiler came off the circuit board and I don't know which pin it was attached to.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm assuming the brown and black wired coming from the headlight plug into the board beside each other, so maybe the other black wire plugs next to the white wire coming from the front of the boiler?


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Yes, exactly right. Brown and black are headlight. Black and white are 5 volt smoke unit. The black wires are plugged into the outer two pins on the board . The white on the front inner pin and the brown on the pin right behind the white. So doing good. I can't make any other accurate statements till I know what configuration is installed. Do you know if it has MTS? If it does not, that pretty much narrows it down. Also is there just a speaker in the tender or is there also a sound board ?


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

To determine if its a short in the motor block, plug the motor wires back in and pull the inner two wires off. Now attach power to these to wires ( not pins ) and see if it runs. If it does run, it is something inside the motor block. I don't feel this is the problem but worth a shot while its apart.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy:


Since the motor turned when you had it apart, have you checked to see if the switch under the back of the cab is all the way to the right, the engineers side? If it is in the center position you will get lights but no power to the motor. All the way right is power to all functions, and all the way to the left is all functions off. Sound and lights are still activated in the center positiion.

Chuck


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, the main circuit board under the cab and the T shaped circuit board under the tender both have burnt places.

Unless these boards are available, I guess it’s time to install my Revo receiver, a Phoenix sound board and a battery pack.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

I have the t shaped board, and depending on what cab board, i might have that. Keep in mind there must have been something that caused it. As long as it pertained to lgb circuits and not something else. You can go ahead and add the revo. I would still however fix the connection between the loco and tender. It will make a cleaner and easier install for getting power to the loco by using the original connection. Or maybe you want to do away with the original plug and use one that is easier to disconnect. I bet you can still use the original sound of you want.
The Roundhouse RnR


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I liked the original sound. 

I think the board in the boiler went first and caused the board in the tender to short out. 

But how can I determine what caused the boards to fail?


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Jump the the outer and inner pins on each side and then apply power to the wheels. Then you know the motor block is functioning just fine for piece of mind. This particular engine has a decoder. Let me ask you this, have you ever run the loco on pwm? LGB decoders do not like pwm. 

Also if you want to use the orginal sound, you just have to make the connections between the chuff sensor in the loco to the tender, and power from the battery to the sound unit. 

The Roundhouse RnR


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Only ran it on DC from a Power G MRC trans


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, Roundhouse 

When jumpering the outer and inner pins on each side as you instructed, the motor runs fine. 

So, if I decide to go with battery power, I only need to use the two outer pins correct? 

Do you have a wiring diagram that shows what wires go where to keep the sound working when using battery power? 

I don't care about the smokie unit. 

How big a job is it to remove the power pick up slides?


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