# Regearing a lumberjack



## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Has anybody figured out what gears to use to increase the gear reduction ratio on the Regner Lumberjack? I have heard someone in Germany did this and it really helped the engine on grades. I know when I had thier Willi engine, it did much better at not stalling on grades and then picking up loads of speed on the down grade. Where as Lumberjack is prone to stall on the grade, unless enough throttle is there to overcome it, but then speed on level track is excessive not to mention what its like on the downgrade section. We dont want to put RC in this engine. Mike


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## Ron Tremblay (Aug 18, 2011)

Mike, I had the same problem with my lumberjack. I fixed mine with the reversing lever. you have to almost set it to about one o'clock and fine tune it from there. It seems to add a little more resistance on the engine, so you give it a little more throttle. Try it and let us know how you make out. Ron


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Here's link that shows some gears. Maybe you can translate and get some info. Possible there is another thread on site that talks about it more.
http://www.schienendampf.com/34487225nx30160/bauberichte-f22/lumber-jack-t33.html.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike Ill send Jay a text and see if he might know.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Two options which might work, if they fit the application:

- Fit a secondary shaft, and use the existing gears to drive that shaft. Then, having obtained duplicates of the model's gears as spare parts, use those to drive the axle from the secondary shaft. This requires some fabrication, but nowhere near that of making gears. This is a doubling of the factory gear ratio, if factory gears are used.

- Run a triple reduction using the existing shafts. In this method, you fit a hollow tube over the driven shaft and attach one large and small gear to this tube. Then, fit the same setup to the drive shaft. Then, from that second set, drive the axle. This method triples the factory gear ratio, and does not require creating new shafts or spacing them.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ron Tremblay said:


> Mike, I had the same problem with my lumberjack. I fixed mine with the reversing lever. you have to almost set it to about one o'clock and fine tune it from there. It seems to add a little more resistance on the engine, so you give it a little more throttle. Try it and let us know how you make out. Ron


 
What you are effectively doing is restricting the exhaust to slow it down. Only issue is you are restricting the inlet too. It does work for full throttle control if there is no throttle valve as other locos are made that way.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Someone in Germany did it, basicly changed 2 of the gears from what I can figure out to bring the reduction closer to 6:1, much like the Willi and Konrad engines. My Willi tackled my grades with ease and wasnt as bad on the down grade. Where as Lumberjack needs more throttle to get up the grade and less down the grade. RC is almost necessary and defeats some of the point of a geared engine. Problem is most of the info is in German and I think the source for the gears was over there as well. I was hoping someone over hear had changed the ratio and had part numbers ect. Thanks for the replies. Mike


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike Toney said:


> Someone in Germany did it, basicly changed 2 of the gears from what I can figure out to bring the reduction closer to 6:1, much like the Willi and Konrad engines. My Willi tackled my grades with ease and wasnt as bad on the down grade. Where as Lumberjack needs more throttle to get up the grade and less down the grade. RC is almost necessary and defeats some of the point of a geared engine. Problem is most of the info is in German and I think the source for the gears was over there as well. I was hoping someone over hear had changed the ratio and had part numbers ect. Thanks for the replies. Mike


Mike,
unfortunately the link does not provide any information about the gears he used. Instead, he refers to an article in "Gartenbahn" . However it should not be too difficult to find suitable gears. Count the number of teeth of the original gear train (small and big gears) and measure the distance between the axles in mm. You want to determine the "module" of the gear (metric equivalent to the diametral pitch). The module is (2 x axle distance/(total number of teeth)). An example: axle distance 15mm, 20 and 40 teeth : m = 2 x 15/60 = 0.5. My guess is that Regner uses module 0.5 gears. Other standard modules are 0.4, 0.75 and 1. You can now replace the gears with any combination of the same module, which adds up the same number of teeth e.g. 10 and 50 or 15 and 45. Metric gears are available in the US from http://www.sdp-si.com/. Try to find gears with the correct bore, unless you can turn bushings/bore out gears.
If someone has access to the "Gartenbahn" article he can probably give you the specs of the gears right away, but it may be hard to find as he only cited the name of the authors: Christian Amann und Günter Czerny.

P.S. I just googled some German Web sites and I found the gear specs: Module 0.5 15 and 35 teeth. SDP carries them in brass.
Good luck


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

szickly vartusek (might be misspelled) is the author in" Die Gartenbahn" a few years back he wrote a lumberjack 
re gearing story with pics and parts numbers,may be a german "Gartenbahn reader can reveal the issue number and the magazin can be ordered from Mr.Melisek (Gartenbahn magazine!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Mike,

Try Google Chrome web browser, it will automatically translate German right on the page.

Sometimes it won't get the more technical words, but those can often be deduced with context.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I wanted to re-open this thread. After all the discussions on re-gearing the Regner Lumberjack over the years. I ended up ordering he gears .5 Module and the 15 and 35 tooth gear. After trying to fit them on it seemed they do not work out. I think its the 15 tooth that messed me up. It looks too long but I can figure out how to get the correct size from Stock drive. (my math skills are not very advanced lol) Anyway here is what I ordered
Module 0.5, 15 Teeth, 20° Pressure Angle, Brass Gear part num A 1B 8MYK05015
Module 0.5, 35 Teeth, 20° Pressure Angle, Brass ASTM 8A Gear Part num A 1B 2MY05035
Here is a picture of the gears








I also remember or thought I saw a photo using the same 15 tooth gear but I lost it.
Link to Stock Drive. http://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/
Any help would be great


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn,
so what is your question? 
The gears you selected should work. But they seem to be rather pricey compared to what you pay for them in Europe ($1.1 = 1 Euro)(http://www.modellbauershop.de/zahnraeder/stirnraeder-messing-modul-05-gerade-verzahnt.php)


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

HMeinhold said:


> Shawn,
> so what is your question?
> The gears you selected should work. But they seem to be rather pricey compared to what you pay for them in Europe ($1.1 = 1 Euro)(http://www.modellbauershop.de/zahnraeder/stirnraeder-messing-modul-05-gerade-verzahnt.php)



The problem is no matter what combination I use, I cant get them to match. I must be missing something but not sure. Seems like the 15 tooth gear should be narrow like the 35 tooth. I remember seeing a picture with the gears I posted above and how they were arranged but I cant find it anymore.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Are you referring to this link?
http://www.schienendampf.com/34487225nx30160/bauberichte-f22/lumber-jack-t33.html
It shows the gear layout.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Very nice link there, lots of good ideas, thanks

Jerry


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

HMeinhold said:


> Are you referring to this link?
> http://www.schienendampf.com/34487225nx30160/bauberichte-f22/lumber-jack-t33.html
> It shows the gear layout.


I thought their was another one that used the same 15tooth gear like I got. The link you posted has a narrower 15tooth gear I believe. Worst case I can try ordering regner gears and see how that works I guess.


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