# LGB LEHMANN WEST GERMANY COOKE LOCOMOTIVE 2119



## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I am interested to buy to used LGB cooke locomotive 2119. If anybody has experience with this loco, please give me some descriptions or impressions about this product. Since this is an old loco, I can't gather much information to assess if this is a good choice. Thanks


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The moguls--overall--have a very good reputation for reliability. My dad's got one of the original ones (c. 1984) that's still running well, though we did replace the idler gears in the drive at one point. I've got one (c. 1990s) that runs well also. Neither are specifically the "2119" stock number, but the mechanics on all the moguls are identical. The 2119 ("Bumblebee" paint scheme) seems to be fairly popular with modelers, and I see them regularly on ebay in the $350 - $600 range. 

Later, 

K


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"The moguls--overall--have a very good reputation for reliability. My dad's got one of the original ones (c. 1984) that's still running well, though we did replace the idler gears in the drive at one point. I've got one (c. 1990s) that runs well also. Neither are specifically the "2119" stock number, but the mechanics on all the moguls are identical. The 2119 ("Bumblebee" paint scheme) seems to be fairly popular with modelers, and I see them regularly on ebay in the $350 - $600 range. " 

Is it a heavy loco? is it a metal cast loco?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Plastic, mostly. It's not too heavy, but will pull 8 - 10 cars on an "average" railroad without much issue. ("Average" meaning around 2% grades maximum, and 4' radius (8' diameter) curves. Tighter curves and steeper grades will limit your train length, but you're still probably good for 6 cars or so. 

Later, 

K


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"Plastic, mostly. It's not too heavy, but will pull 8 - 10 cars on an "average" railroad without much issue. ("Average" meaning around 2% grades maximum, and 4' radius (8' diameter) curves. Tighter curves and steeper grades will limit your train length, but you're still probably good for 6 cars or so. " 

Thanks for the information. I would definitely go for this loco. 
The reason I asked about the weight because most of my light weight locos can't push/pull the track cleaner. I hope this loco can do the job since currently my only train (usa trains dockside) that can push the track cleaner is down.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

From my experience the LGB mogul is the poorest puller of any LGB engine that I have. Surprisingly the Stanz and forney will out pull it. Do not be tempted to add weight to the engine. Added weight will speed up the wear on the idler gears. The idler gears are the weak link in an otherwise excellent locomotive. Chuck


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"From my experience the LGB mogul is the poorest puller of any LGB engine that I have. Surprisingly the Stanz and forney will out pull it. Do not be tempted to add weight to the engine. Added weight will speed up the wear on the idler gears. The idler gears are the weak link in an otherwise excellent locomotive. Chuck" 

Chuck, 
Thanks for advice. Last night, I told my wife that we should add some weight on the PIKO and LGB locos so they won't skip on the track. But you are right, designers already calculated what is best for the gears regarding the optimal pulling capacity. By the way, do you have a practical method how to measure the grade. I believe my track has a steep grade and the locos skip sometimes even they pull only one light car.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

There were two 2119's. You are probably referring to the 2119d ("d" meaning no sound system) The original 2119's did not have a sound system. That era LGB Moguls with sound ended in "s" (analog sound). The latest 2119 was the 21192 (the "2" indicating digital sound).

In my opinion the LGB Moguls were (other than the Stainz) the very best LGB locomotives ever made (I'm prejudiced).

They should pull your track cleaning car fine but you did not mention which track cleaning car you have.

As for pushing a car, the 2119d's have a large cow catcher and a fake little plastic coupler on the front but there are options for converting the loco to a different cow catcher with an operating coupler. While similar, LGB Moguls with different cow catchers often had different length boilers - so not all Moguls shared all the parts.

The 2119d was sort of an economy model of the LGB Mogul but it was made of the same quality components as any LGB Mogul. As such the plastic is almost unbreakable and often they are not painted but rather the "plastic" is molded in the color desired.

Perhaps the most common problem with used LGB Moguls is that a wire between the loco and tender is broken due to rough handling but removal and replacement of the connector usually fixes that.

If you need instructions, parts lists etc. they are readily available or I can provide them.

Jerry


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"They should pull your track cleaning car fine but you did not mention which track cleaning car you have." 

I use Bridge-Masters track cleaner. It's kind of heavy, as far as I tried, PIKO and LGB trains can't push/pull this device. But as I mentioned by track does have a steep grade.


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## wgn4884 (May 23, 2013)

I have 4 LGB Moguls from the early 1990s. All have been good, performance- and reliability-wise. They are plastic but have lead in the boilers. To keep from overloading the drives, I have a limit of 7 cars. While I don't have any engineering data to know how that affects gear life, the engines pull that many cars, with plastic wheels, up 2% grades easily. Metal wheels would increase car weight and might shorten gear life. I just don't know. If I were interesed in getting another engine, I wouldn't hesitate to get another 2119 if it appeared to be in good shape and the price was reasonable. Train-Li has lots of parts if needed. 

Bill


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

""They should pull your track cleaning car fine but you did not mention which track cleaning car you have." 

I use Bridge-Masters track cleaner. It's kind of heavy, as far as I tried, PIKO and LGB trains can't push/pull this device. But as I mentioned by track does have a steep grade." 


Jerry, I also want to note that my LGB train is a small one, it's a 0-4-0 loco, 995001.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By mymodeltrain on 15 Oct 2013 09:33 AM 
"They should pull your track cleaning car fine but you did not mention which track cleaning car you have." 

I use Bridge-Masters track cleaner. It's kind of heavy, as far as I tried, PIKO and LGB trains can't push/pull this device. But as I mentioned by track does have a steep grade. 
I have the Bridge-Master track cleaner and an LGB Mogul could pull it but a "steep grade" changes everything. It depends on what you mean by steep. The LGB Moguls have traction tires which help a lot but actually an LGB Forney (I hate to say this) has a bit more traction because the LGB Mogul has a spring pushing the lead truck down on the track (which helps push through turnouts). The Forney does not have the spring so all the weight is on the drivers.

I think the Bridge-Master instructions say to push the car (makes sense to clean ahead of the loco) and that is tougher than pulling a track cleaner.

Perhaps your best solution (if possible) is to borrow a friend's loco and try it before buying something if your main reason is to push the track cleaner. 

You said your Piko & LGB can't push/pull it. Which ones? You may need to double head your loco(s) from the sound of it - or go with a heavy loco designed for and with a heavy weight.

I think you are needing (take your choice):

1. double heading
2. traction tires
3. heavy loco

Of course there is the "reduce your grade" option but I am sure that was your first thought. I have a couple of 10% grades but it would take E8's or SD-45's or an FA-1/FB-1 to try to push a track cleaner up them. 

An LGB Track Cleaning Loco would be an expensive but excellent alternative.

I just saw your mention of the LGB 0-4-0. I love the LGB 0-4-0 (switchers) but they have VERY LITTLE traction. An LGB Mogul would probably out pull three 0-4-0 switchers. I have to double head my LGB 0-4-0's to pull anything more than one or two cars. [/b]

Sorry but I have no experience with the LGB 995001 so I don't know how it compares with other LGB locos. [/b]

*Then too there is the question of whether you could push the track cleaner downhill on the grade unless you have grades up and down hill.*

Jerry


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

mymodeltrain 

since no one else has answered your ? about grade I will try. So if you have a rise of 1 in. in apx. 8 ft. it is 1%. or 1/4 in. in 2ft. is 1% . 3/4in. in 2ft. is 3% hope this helps. 

Dick


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"since no one else has answered your ? about grade I will try. So if you have a rise of 1 in. in apx. 8 ft. it is 1%. or 1/4 in. in 2ft. is 1% . 3/4in. in 2ft. is 3% hope this helps. "


Thanks for the education, I will measure the rail this weekend. It's good to know how steep the rail is for future design of locos' loads.
Here is the photo of the steep rail. I just expanded this rail last month. It's not my purpose to make a steep track, but because I was in a rush to do the work with my limited time. On the other hand, it's creates some kind of spectacular view. 











And this is the 0-4-0 LGB loco. In this end, the curve is sharp, the diameter is 3.5 feet and that is why I can afford to run small locos only. Although, I also like diesel locos but they are too long to run on this rail.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Most hardware stores sell electronic levels. The shorter ones are reasonably priced. They usually have a position for slope. It is quite handy and well worth the price. Chuck PS, the number 995001 is just the number on the side of the loco. It is not the model number. The model number is usually on the bottom of the motor block. Most if not all LGB engines start with "2". Like your 2119.


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## Mike Paterson (Dec 27, 2007)

Do you have a smart phone? There are apps for both Android and iPhones that make them function as a level, some have the ability to calculate and display grade/angle percentage.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I have a "smart" phone, but never try to see if there is such a function. I will look into that or else I can buy the electronic levels Chuck recommended. Thanks.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

If you go to the Apple App store and search for "Clinometer" you will see one that is really excellent. It can display grade as %, Deg etc....really handy and when you lay your phone down flat it changes to a bubble level. 

Keith


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Apparently what you have is an LGB 2075:

2075:z 1974-1984, 0-4'0T (B-n2t) East German Railway steam locomotive, type number 99 5001, formerly Spremberg Urban Railway locomotive. Commonly called a dockside locomotive.

Body color generally black; open coal bin at rear of cab; squat short boiler; square side-mounted water tank; nonsmoking stack; and no lights. Red disk drivers and simplified drive rods. 

Replaced by 2076D in 1983. For Primus version 20875 see Chapter 9. Length: 240 mm.

(A) 1974, unpainted black body; with white "99 5001" on each side and on smokebox door; gold-finish Deutsche Reichsbahn plaque; pinkish red or red chassise; early red disk drive wheels. 350

(B) 1974, same as (A) with early red spoked drivers; no gold finish on Deutsche Reichsbahn plaque; usually with red chassis. Also came in sets 20701 and 20701T. 300

(C) i975-76, same as (B) with flat black painted body; black boiler and cab; reddish pink chassisA. lso came in sets2 0502, 20601, 20601L, 20601T, 20602, and possibly 20575. 210

(D) 1977-78, same as (C) with gold embossed "Deutsche Reichsbahn" side plaque. Also sold with set 20701T. 200

(E) 1978-79, same as (D) with unpainted embossed side plaque lettering. Also came with set 20675 160

(F) 1979-84, same as (E) with late red spoked drivers. Also sold with sets 20675 and 20701. 140

I've never had one so I don't know anything about it.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Regarding leveling a layout, a method I used involved a device that measures water in a tube. I'm not familiar with current electronic levels and I am sure they work equally well.

A cheap version that would work just as well is clear plastic tubing. Just fill a long (1/2" perhaps) clear tube with water and when the water level at one end is level with one part of the layout the water level at the other end will show exactly where the track needs to be to be level. It works whether the layout is tiny or huge. A factor that did not affect me is that my layouts are above ground. A water level would not work if any part of the layout was above the water level in the tube.


"the curve is sharp"[/b]

A sharp curve has the effect of increasing the effective grade. Whatever the ability of a loco to pull up a straight grade it will be noticeably less if you add any curve. The sharper the curve, the greater the resistance and the less traction that will be available to pull the train around and up the grade. [/b]

It seems that you have everything working against you but that is normal and probably most of us have done it with our first layout. Welcome to the reality of building a model railroad.









Jerry


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## wgn4884 (May 23, 2013)

While I was interrupted in writing this, and Dick has told you about grade, but since I have it written I'll post it. 

The basic formula for grade is “grade = rise over run.” Rise and run must be in the same units, and for what we do, inches is usually chosen. Notice that "Run" is measured horizontally, not on a slope. So if there is a rise of 1 inch in a horizontal run of 4 feet which is 48 inches, the grade would be 1/48, which is 0.0203. Since grades are generally expressed in percent, 0.0203 would usually be called a 2.03 percent grade. But notice this is an average grade, Undulations could result in sections of greater than 2.03 percent. As Dick points out, a 1 inch rise in 8 feet is 1/96, which is close enough to 1 percent most of the time. 

In measuring grade on curves, the grade along the track will be less than the grade measured on a chord, where a chord is a straight line between 2 points on the curve. In laying out track, some modelers use the same grade on straight sections and on chords in curved sections. This results in the grade along the curve being reduced, which helps compensate for the extra rolling resistance caused by the curve. 

Bill


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry.

I have an original (purchased new in 1985) LGB 2018D. Was that the earkiest Mogul LGB made? Would the 2119 Mogul have the same mechanism as my 2018D?


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By Gary Armitstead on 15 Oct 2013 01:03 PM 
Jerry.

I have an original (purchased new in 1985) LGB 2018D. Was that the earliest Mogul LGB made? Would the 2119 Mogul have the same mechanism as my 2018D?


Hi Gary,

I am 99% sure that you are right and that the 2018d was the original LGB Mogul. According to the following it appears to share most if not all of the parts with the 2119d. I could not actually find parts diagrams for the 2119d to compare with the 2018d parts (the old paper catalog actually lists parts shared by LGB locos).

*2018D*:+ 1985-88, 2-6-0 (1'CT4), D.S.P.&P.R.R.Mogul locomotive and tender similar to the type found on almost all narrow gauge railways in America and used especially for negotiating tight curves through narrow canyons and river beds. Green cab and tender with red boiler and black piping; black
smokins balloon smokestack, black boiler front with silver door and gold "18" on front number plate. 

Although production was pushed back to 1985, a few preproduction prototype models were displayed in the United States in late 1984. The D.S.P.&P.R.R. model was lettered "D.& R.G.W." in the 1984-85 catalog (cab and tender were also lighter green than production models). 

Production models have "D.S.P.&P.R.R." lettering. A decal set was provided to alter the road name on the tender to "Denver Rio Grande" or "D.& R.G.W." plus several engine numbers. When it was discovered that the weight inside the boiler of first run models was not completely secure, a boiler-weight retaining screw was added through the inside of the cab. Models may have one or two traction tires. Tender is unpowered but integral to the operation of the locomotive. A special wire loom connects tender with locomotive. Therefore neither locomotive nor tender is sold separately. 

At least 10,000 Moguls were built in 1985. Many early models had trouble negotiating curves and a silent factory recall was put in place to replace entire chassis of the 2018D only. Replaced by the 2028D in 1988. Length: 665 mm.

(A) 1985 gold "D.S.P.& P.R.R" on sides, drive wheel with traction tire; one screw on cab.

(B) 1985-88, same as (A), but two screws on cab; one or two traction tires











*2119D*(US):+ 1989, 2-6-0 (1'C-T4), limited-edition, Lake George & Boulder Mogul locomotive. Same as 2018D but with yellow cab, tender, steam and sand domes, and headlight. Two parallel black stripes run horizontally along cab and tender. Number "2179" in black on lower side of cab, "Lake George & Boulder" in black on sides of tender; tender chassis and arch bar trucks are gray. Has smoking stack and constant lighting. Unpowered tender connected to locomotive by special wire loom and is integral part of locomotive; therefore, tender not available separately. 2,000 produced. Length: 665 mm.



A lot of the difference is fancier coloring. The Lake George & Boulder locos/trains were IMHO usually lower cost models to encourage new buyers.

My first LGB Mogul was a very used 2018d with many incorrect parts including a yellow 2119d tender that I bought at a NGRS in Chicago many years ago for $200. I was hooked for life and today that 2018d is 100% factory correct.

One of my biggest mistakes was in selling a 2119s that I bought from Buddy Rickard after he had converted it to a 2-8-0. Buddy did a beautiful job but it could not handle my LGB R1 and R2 curves and turnouts so it had to go.









Jerry 


*OK. NOW I Remember. *The 2018d is clearly different because it is a wood burner[/b]* while *the 2119d is a coal burner[/b]* and more important I believe the smoke box is different in length so the boiler is also different in length (unless I am mistaken). I think the 2119d smoke stack may actually be part of the smoke box mold. *

While the drive units of the 2018d and 2119d would most likely be the same, the drive unit of an LGB Mogul with sound is different because the LGB sound systems work with a hall effect sensor and the non-sound LGB Mogul drive units do not have the setup to activate a hall effect sensor. This is why it is not easy to put an LGB sound system into a non-sound LGB Mogul. 

Other than the sound parts the drive units of similar age should be interchangeable. LGB only offered a single replacement drive unit that came set up for the sensors and would work with or without sound. *The original Moguls had 3 wires to the motor while later Mogul motors were set up for 4 wires (2 track & 2 power). *I don't recall offhand how the number of wires would affect the choice of a drive unit or motor (I've never needed to replace a Mogul motor).


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I am a proud owner of both 2118 and 2119. 

A little history. I bought the 2118 shortly after it was released. I wanted, needed, had to have an American engine. No Stanz with a cowcatcher and tender would work. I soon realized that it wouldn't do my curves R1 and R2. I had a friend who is a machinist turn down the center drivers to make them blind. That worked for a while. At the same time I wanted a more modern coal burner with a straight stack. Not a wood burner with a kerosene lamp. With the help of my machinist friend we cut of the diamond stack and the fluted sand and steam dome. Before we started this I found at Caboose Hobbies a straight stack, a new cow catches, and two brass domes. The remodelling also led to the addition of a new top for the coal bunker rather than the wood stack with rails. The remodeled engine worked well until the DGRS Christmas show at Coors Brewery in Golden. Not a better place to run trains, but that is another story. The engine died. I had heard rumors that LGB had redesigned the motorblock. I sent the engine to LGB in San Diego. It was returned with a new motor block, but it also had a new smokebox with a diamond stack, cowcatcher. Fortunately they didn't change out the domes. My parts were in the box along with a bill for the new parts, not the motor block. I replaced the parts and returned the new "correct parts" and got a clean bill.

Here is the engine. Not as a red and green wood burner.


















A little different from the original.

The Smoke box of the 2118 is about 1.5" long, on the 2119 and all other Moguls it is about 2' long.

Here is a picture of my 2119d.










It has been relettered to Denver and Rio Grande Western.

Chuck


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

I have two 2018D's stored, serviceable, radio battery, original RCS HUGE electronics, run fine still. 
When I updated mine, many years ago, first I built a step switching pilot with functional coupler for both. Then, got later smokeboxes out of LGB with straight stacks. Then the only two LGB Mogul oil bunkers ever built by CSC Innovations.....the headlamps are the Pyle National style used on some Bachmann steamers. 
Painted them black to cover the red and green. 
I never ever had any issues with R-1 and R-2 curves with mine...as that's what we had before I built the outdoor railroad. 
I've been told the later motor blocks with sprung center drivers and more slop work better on R-1 and R-2. 

I also have a new, in the box, 2018D. 
No idea why.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Chuck 
Thank you for sharing your story. It's very interesting I found out that every model train collector is very passionate with their work, even sometimes it is challenging, costly and time-consuming. But by the end, I think it worths the effort, specifically every evening we can sit there enjoying the art after a long working day.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

TOC, I haven't run my 2118 for years. When it was in use, I never had any problems with the replacement block. Chuck


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## G-trains (May 6, 2013)

Maybe these informations help a little:


The first version of the LGB Mogul was #2018. It had a non-sprung center wheel set. It can easily be identified because the handrails on the boiler were made of plastic. Later versions had brass handrails.

During the first production runs, Moguls had two rubber traction tires. Even those with sprung center wheels. Due to problems with running through tight curves ("Sticking"), later only one was used.

Problems with the gear only appear when the drive wheels are spinning due to heavy load because then sometimes a gearwheel skips one cog of the corresponding gearwheel. (I hope my knowledge of the english language is good enough to explain this correctly).

When this happens, the side rods will jam when they are in lower or upper position.
The motor is strong enough to keep the wheels going, but now there is a lot of tension on the gearwheels (and also on the rods).

Either the screws that hold the rods on the wheels will bent a little, or the gearwheel(s) will be damaged.
To avoid damage, the loco must be taken immediately out of service, the lower cover plate has to be opened and all wheels have to be set in correct ("parallel") position again.

To avoid skipping of cogs you "just" have to avoid spinning wheels.

There are two ways to achieve this: either avoid heavy loads, or ballast up the loco. About 25 oz (750 gram?) are ok.

If you want to do more, remove the pickup shoes from the loco, remove the carbon brushes from the tender and add four ball bearing axles with electrical pickup instead. When you are very lucky, you will somewhere find a second drive wheel with a groove for a rubber traction tire (or you have an older loco that already has two).

With these changes the Mogul pulls up to 250 axles (50% of them ball-beared) on plain level, or 100 axles (plastic wheels) on a 3% grade without gear wheel wear. Just be sure to have enough and good grease in the gearbox, peferably with molybdenum (called Molykote here in Germany).



250 axles 


100 axles


monster train


br


Wolfgang


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Very impressive Wolfgang.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Other concerns with the moguls is do not swap tenders between different moguls!!! 

The original sound moguls had a 6 wire connector and it is wired differently than the newer digital sound moguls, and even the MTS sound moguls had a third wiring scheme. 
Connectors to the tender can be: 
3 pin wire and 3 pin connector, no sound 
6 pin connector with only 3 wires, no sound in tender 
6 pin connector and 6 wires, usually sound equipped. 
5 pin connector, oil tender version, this is really the oil version of the 2-4-0 (69232) sound tender and the 69232 coal tender can be used on this engine. 
MTS versions had the sound card in the engine, thus the bell and whistle reeds are in the engine. Only the speaker is in the tender. 

Motor blocks, 2 types as there is a big difference in 3 wire vs 4 wire, but both have the same mold numbers.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Great information Wolfgang and Dan.

Amazing videos!

Jerry


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

I have a 2119D. It is a fine , high quality LGB mogul. WHile I usually consider Jerry almost a brother in our shared opinions on LGB, I would NOT characterize it as an 'economy' mogul in any way. Granted it is not fully painted but neither was the 2018, or a few others. My point is that it is every bit the quality of any other mogul mechanically/component-wise. These run smoothly and pull as well as any mogul.

It is absolutely the equivalent of any LGB non-sound mogul of its day. It was a limited item for the US, and as I recall un-cataloged. It is, mostly, the same as the 2019 S, (the first LGB mogul without a cooke style balloon stack) and is without sound and flickering firebox, or perhaps more accurate an analogy, the same as a 2018 or 2028 but for the stack and pilot and headlamp and flared tender, and another LGB cosmetic variation to create a 'new' model. It has older wood burner domes, as well as wood burner style dome spacing, shorter smokebox, modern steel pilot, and unique grey/silver drivers and steam chests, sort of an amalgam of LGB mogul parts to make a 'new' locomotive, one which is particularly well suited to creating a C and S #22. Alas I digress. 

It is a superb locomotive. It has a working rear lantern on the tender, good seuthe smoke unit, and modern style electric lantern in front. One thing that will help longevity is to not over load the locomotive. Real moguls rarely hauled more than 5-7 full freight cars, or 3 passenger cars, particularly upgrade. 

I love mine, and as far as inherent quality, any owner abuse or other condition issues aside, its as fine a performer as any LGB mogul. They look great with any consist, be it aspen gold or Pullman green coaches, or mineral red or black freight cars. These are simply lovely in the garden due to the color contrast. The thing about these is, simply, either you like a yellow bumble bee-like locomotive, or you don't.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Posted By stevedenver on 16 Oct 2013 04:23 PM 
I would NOT characterize it as an 'economy' mogul in any way. Granted it is not fully painted

It is absolutely the equivalent of any LGB non-sound mogul of its day. 


Hi Steve, 


My only points were that it is not what I would call fully painted and it does not represent an actual railroad. 

As you know, I never found an LGB loco I did not like (well, i'm not much of a Euro fan).









The only reason I sold mine was to replace it with a 21192.

By the way, your comments point out the affection LGBers tend to have for the line.









Jerry


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## anoden (Sep 9, 2015)

Hello
Can anyone help me
I just acquired an LGB Mogul 2119d (Bumblebee color)
It did not come with any instructions
Can anyone help me 
plus can someone advise on the service manual and is it similar to a 2018/2019
Thanks
Andrew


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

http://familygardentrains.com/primer/planning/grades/grades.htm
This a link to Family Garden Trains that explains a cheap way to measure grade. Regards, Dennis.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There are cosmetic differences between the early moguls, but the manual for any of them (pre-sound/MTS) should work. Especially if the product number has four digits.

The first version of the Red and Green (2018d) mogul had a different motor block. LGB replaced it if you sent it in. It had a hard time on the R1 curves. The redesigned block worked much better and was/is standard on all later versions. I'm assuming that you have an older 2019d engine and it is without sound. 

The smoke box on the 2018 is a little shorter than the one on later versions. 

Chuck


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

It is interesting to see this topic is still going.

By coincidence, last month I had a garage door opener installed above my garage layout. To install it, the workmen had to walk on the upper level of the layout. To protect the track, I bought and laid 4' x 8' sheets of sound board on top of the LGB brass track and R1 turnouts. I had to remove all the trains before putting the soundboard down.

After the garage door opener had been installed and the workmen left, I put all the trains back on the layout. 

The locomotives were a variety of LGB moguls. I was surprised to discover that probably half of the moguls had trouble getting through the LGB R1 turnouts. I don't know why I never noticed this before.

A little speed and the moguls got through the R1 turnouts along with the coaches they were pulling. There were a few derailments.

Since the trains just sit on their sidings until I want to run them outdoors, I don't plan to do anything or change anything.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

G-trains said:


> Maybe these informations help a little:
> 
> 
> The first version of the LGB Mogul was #2018. It had a non-sprung center wheel set. It can easily be identified because the handrails on the boiler were made of plastic. Later versions had brass handrails.
> ...


Hi Wolfgang,

250 axles pulled by 1 LGB Mogul!

Simply Amazing.

Now I've got to go and run something.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## anoden (Sep 9, 2015)

Hi Jerry
Are you or would you be able to send me the instructions for the 2119?
Thanks
Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Mogul model numbers follow this format 2X19y
X can be 0-9, the higher the x number the later mfg date.
Y is 0, 1,2,0r 4.

So, go to this site and search for the diagram that best matches your mogul as LGB did not make manuals for every part number and sometimes they changed the product but not the manual.

https://www.champex-linden.de/cl_pi_lgb.htm

To get here I searched via google for lgb 2019.pdf


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Note there were 2018 ans 2028 for the oldest original moguls and all had 5 volt lights and smoke units plus LGB ran these at 6.2 volts.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*Amazing information about LGB 2119d Mogul*

I was looking for some information about an LGB 2119d Mogul I am working on and ran across this old topic. It was a lot of help to me. I just replaced the idler gear with the help of Dan & Joana (Train-Li).

I don't know who Wolfgang is but he really knows LGB and I hope he is still around.

I recognized a couple of my 2018d's with plastic handrails.

Jerry





G-trains said:


> Maybe these informations help a little:
> 
> 
> The first version of the LGB Mogul was #2018. It had a non-sprung center wheel set. It can easily be identified because the handrails on the boiler were made of plastic. Later versions had brass handrails.
> ...


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I have an LGB 2119D, but it's Lake George and Boulder. It IS for sale and will be $230 plus shipping, if you are still interested.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I would be interested if my Marklin HO stuff would sell, not having much luck on that one. I used to have a 2018d, with the original motor block. If the R 1 cuves were laid nice, with no kinks at the joints, it would run ok, most every mogul I have had slowed down in the R1 curves I have on my line, the 2018d didnt slow anymore than the others. MIke


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dick Friedman said:


> I have an LGB 2119D, but it's Lake George and Boulder. It IS for sale and will be $230 plus shipping, if you are still interested.


All the 2119D's are without sound & LG&B including mine (l just put a D&RGW label over it). The 21192's are D&RGW with digital sound.

I am interested in your 2119d depending on use, condition and cost of shipping to 72007 (Arkansas).

Please send me a PM and we can discuss it.

Thanks,

Jerry


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