# metal glue for rail



## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I expanding my rail and there are gaps that need to be sealed or else the train tumbled specifically at the turns. I wonder if someone can tell me what type of metal glue I need to get. I try to solder but it diidn't work very well.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Use a two part epoxie, I would use Magic Sculpt, but you can use other epoxie that can be found at hardware and automotive stores. Don't use the clear type that comes in syringe type 
containers. Use the type that has the consistancy of clay, you mix the two together and they create a one color product. place in the gap with a little hanging out, let dry and then either 
file or sand down smooth. It will not conduct electricity, you can buy that kind but it is quite pricy. 
Dennis


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## grsman (Apr 24, 2012)

You should not have gaps large enough in your track to derail your train. Filling the gaps is not the solution. You should find out why you have such large gaps and fix it. Something is wrong with the way you have the track laid out.
Tom


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

If you can't somehow bring the rails together, and are truly forced to fill, the epoxy I'd suggest is JB Weld. There are different formulations, so pick one compatible with your rail material. 
But are you only having trouble making the joiners keep the rails together? If so, maybe we should talk about joiners, not adhesives.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Thanks all for the information. I bought JP Weld today and filled the gaps. It takes much longer time to dry up, not half an hour as stated on the label. But the glue has conductivity so it's a good sign. Tomorrow, I will sand down to smooth as suggested by Dennis. 
I agree with Tom that the rail must be assemble tightly enough to avoid gaps that derail the trains, but for some how I could not bring the rail together this time. I have been struggling for two days. After all, I decided go with this solution.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

expanding my rail 
some how I could not bring the rail together 
It sounds as if you have been widening the radius of the curved track? With two rails, the inner one and the outer one are different lengths, and when you widen the curve, the inner rail will not be long enough. 
The solution is to cut a piece off the outer rail, so that both of the rails match up with the next section. 

While JB Weld will work as a temporary solution, it will wear out and you will have the same issue again later.


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"It sounds as if you have been widening the radius of the curved track? With two rails, the inner one and the outer one are different lengths, and when you widen the curve, the inner rail will not be long enough. 
The solution is to cut a piece off the outer rail, so that both of the rails match up with the next section. 

While JB Weld will work as a temporary solution, it will wear out and you will have the same issue again later" 

Peter, 
I hope it won't wear out so quick that requires annual touch-up. I will have to learn how to cut and reassemble the rail, that's the skill I need to learn in the future. Do you know if there is a video available somewhere for that particular task?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

If you are resizing the radius/diameter; 

Remove the screws on the underside of the track that hold the rails. 
Now you can slide the next section of track rails through the ties and into the joiner. 
You will have staggard joints, but those are stronger and should lessen derailments. 
At the end of the curve you will need to saw the rails so they are even and can mate with new track. 
If a joiner lands on top of a tie, file the tie down to clear the joiner. 

Happy Rails 

John


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"staggard joints,"... 


John, 
I try to digest some of the new terminologies.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

"staggard joints," 
_Well, actually John was talking about "staggered" joints, as in joints that wander all over the place, like a person who is staggering._ 

He gave you the process details - take the rails out, bend them, and then put them back - pushing them together in the joiners. At the end of the curve, the inside rail will be much shorter than the outer, so mark the outer, take the rail out, and cut it to match the inner. A regular hacksaw and small vice are pretty useful.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Is this the Bachmann tubular track from other threads, or what track is this? 

We're all telling him to bend the rail, maybe a mistake. 

Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Greg, 
He started with;"I expanding my rail and there are gaps ...." 

We are offering after the fact help. 
Skimmed the first line? Didja..... 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

not at all... why do you ask? There's nothing inconsistent with the facts presented and my response. 

I think you need to read over and read his other posts. 

(this is about the 3rd time you have accused me of skimming a thread... it's getting real obvious, you forget that personal attacks are not ok - yet) 

Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

that was an attack?


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## janggeungulk (Jan 25, 2014)

The best Metal Bonding Adhesive for Rail is Epoxy Metal / Concrete from Loctite Adhesives.


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## Gp382DH7315 (Dec 19, 2013)

I have had the same problem, my solution was to take the rail screws out of the bottoms of the short track; then the final one got a cut-to-length piece and the use of a (4) screw rail clamp to lock into place. 
Even now, I end up with a small gap when reworking a switch or curve and check the scrap bin for small lengths.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

When you take the rail out of the ties, you might reassemble them short to long and long to short, so that the pieces are about the same length. You may not have to cut the "last" piece at all!


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

One other thought if you only have a few places with gaps you may try using the rail joiner clamps. Depending on the gap, you may be able to take a sacrificial rail and cut a few small piece from it. These small pieces (I am talking 1/4" or so) would fit between your two track in the clamp. 

Issue with JB wield is that it will expand and contract at a different rate then your brass/metal track and eventually crack. If you have large gaps, then suggest you cut your track to eliminate the gap. Suggest a dermal or some other rotor tool. Make a quick, easy, clean cut.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For a larger gap, there are double length rail clamps. 
And for brass code 332 get the LGB expansion unit and remove the piece controlling both rails. Now you can close the gap and have an expansion unit for both rails.


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