# Fitting out my Fairymead



## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I unpacked my Fairymead, serviced it and ran it on my indoor track. As with the Emma before it, it ran perfectly in both directions. I am, however, never content to let it go at that. At a minimum, I always install Kadee couplers and radio control. Then, I move on to cosmetic changes to suit my tastes. This thread will be my build log for what I'm doing. Perhaps some of you may get some useful ideas for your work.

I've installed a Kadee #905 coupler on the rear. Yet to come is a maple pilot beam with an integrated Kadee coupler.

For the radio control, I decided that the best place for it would be the rear fuel and water bunker. This means that a goodall valve will be the means of topping up the boiler.



















I'm using a Spektrum receiver and one of Tony Walsham's compatible RCS TX-4s receivers. The Spektrum DX6i transmitter is excellent; but, it really is intended for aircraft and quite big. Tony's offering is very compact and simple and I've really liked using it with my Emma. The servos are HiTech digital units which can be programmed for direction of rotation and amount of travel - something I particularly needed for the Johnson bar. The throttle is driven by a plastic chain. The sprocket on the servo is larger than the one on the throttle valve and I reprogrammed the servo for maximum rotation. This allows ample adjustment for the throttle when running.

I've always preferred the straight stacks used on more modern steam locos and was planning to make a replacement for the balloon stack. When I discovered how heavy the stack that came with my loco was, I decided to get moving immediately. Using the stack on my Emma as a guide, I designed one for my Fairymead and turned it on my lathe. The photo below is the first trial fit before cleaning and painting it.










The saddle casting that goes between the stack and the smokebox is the one that came with the balloon stack and worked perfectly for the purpose. I use Summerlands chuffers because I like the sound and because they keep much of the discharged steam oil from going up the stack and splattering all over the loco and following cars. One thing I do to further avoid splatter is to build a model of a spark arrestor for the top of the stack. That is yet to come. If anyone requests it, I'll be happy to post a dimensioned sketch of the brass turning I made.

More posts will follow as the work progresses.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Llyn, I guess you found the hollow firebox bottom a difficult place for the servos.

Andrew


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I never really considered using the space underneath, Andrew. The rear bunker was just altogether too convenient.


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## Mike Paterson (Dec 27, 2007)

Would you please confirm the receiver used (your reference Spektrum and Tony's) and the model number of the digital servo. Was not aware of programmable servo's.

Thanks,
Mike


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

llynrice said:


> I never really considered using the space underneath, Andrew. The rear bunker was just altogether too convenient.


It is very neat how you set it up in there.

Andrew


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a word of warning. NEVER drink any mead that is offered to you by fairies. It will knock you out, and when you wake up, ALL the hair on your body will be in braids! (Some places can be very hard to unravel. 'Nuff said!)

Seriously, great work, LLyn.

Best,
David Meashey


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Mike,

The receiver I am using is a Spektrum R6210-X which I found on Amazon.

The digital programmable servos I used are Hitec HS-5245MG. The servo programmer I use is the Hitec HFP-25. I do the bulk of my shopping for radio control materials with Servo City (http://www.servocity.com/). I'm sure there are other excellent suppliers, but I've been well pleased with Servo City. They do not handle Spektrum products.

The transmitter I am using is an RCS TX-4s which appears to have been superseded by the TX-5. Tony Walsham is very responsive and helpful. You can find his business at http://www.rcs-rc.com/pages/tx-4s


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job refitting your Fairymead, Nick. The glass windows add class. Looks as if you have plenty of room left to fit a servo for the Johnson bar. I found that the Johnson bar, the stand it's mounted on and the connecting rod to the valve gear had slightly burred edges which sometimes made it bind. I touched all of the corners with a small mill smooth file and operation smoothed up really nicely.


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

I vastly prefer your straight stack. You have never had any issues with the nylon sprockets and the heat? Great work!

Dave


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, it looks like a good fit-up. Now, get out there and run the wheels off of it.

Dave, I've used plastic chain and sprockets on three other locos and it has worked really well. It's quite warm near the boiler; but, the plastic is not up against anything that's truly hot.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, thank you again. I want to do one more thing. In previous Accucraft locomotives, the exhaust pipe was usually pinched at the end and slots cut into the sides so as not to spit hot water or steam directly up the stack. 
The Fairymead is supplied with just an open pipe, spewing water, oil and steam all over the place. I'd hate to think it was designed that way to promote the sale of an add on device.
I removed the exhaust pipe, pinched the end and cut slots in the sides, pics attached.
BTW, if someone can tell me what at insect is I'd really appreciate it. Looks like it is a spider of some kind, but never saw one like it before.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Got to my first outdoor run on Larry Green's layout today. With the heavy balloon stack replaced by the lighter straight stack, it shows no inclination to roll over. However, it is now quite tail heavy and the lead drivers derail easily on even slight track irregularities. I ended up running in reverse to forestall derailments. I have ordered the springs from McMaster-Carr which Jason recommended for stiffening up the suspension. I have one of Jason's improved gas control valves on the way (I've already installed one of his throttle valves). Also, ordered a WeeBee safety valve from Jason. This is the part of the project where I'm working out kinks in the system while continuing to add more details. The Fairymead is turning out to be a good project engine which I can have fun upgrading and modifying to my needs.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

I installed the McMaster-Carr springs on Lisa's engine (which still has the balloon stack), but she still sits a little down at the stern. I haven't had a chance to track test it with the new springs yet though.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, how about adding weight to the fire box like Phillipsburg Eric did???


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Nick,

Putting weight in the fire box would put the weight behind the rear drivers which would worsen the unbalance. If changing the springs doesn't work, I might try to add weight underneath between the cylinders or possibly inside the smokebox. I need to get some more experience with spring adjustments before trying anything so drastic.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, sorry I misquoted, Phillipsburg Eric put the weight in the SMOKE BOX, not the fire box (check his post). That would add the weight back that you removed by using the smaller stack. You can easily add or subtract as needed without having to order or wait for anything that may or may not work. 
Mine seems to track just fine as designed once I removed the swarf on the trailing truck that inhibited it to swing.


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## Mike Paterson (Dec 27, 2007)

John 
Thank you for the data. Will start my upgrade when I get back from Portugal. 
Mike


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted previously I mentioned a problem I had with the trailing truck, so was very apprehensive of having that give me problems again.
When I mentioned Phillipsburg Eric adding weight, I was mistaken as he pointed out.
attached is the added weight I put in the Smoke Box. Nothing more than a piece of 11/4" steel pipe, cut with a hack saw and cleaned up with a dremel. The front springs seem more responsive, and the weight is right over the front beam.
To prove it to myself, I removed the R/C so I could open the throttle more than I normally would. The track is wet as it is raining. It didn't even rock where it used to before.
There is more than one way to solve a problem.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a follow up on yesterday's incomplete test in the rain. 
Today I did the same both forward and reverse and using a trailing car with the provided link and coupler provided. The locomotive and coupler performed flawlessly at much greater speeds than I would really prefer to run. 
Very happy with that, now to build trailing more trailing cars.
I am researching different manufacturers for a combine. I duplicated the Ozark 10' flat car and changed the scale to 1:13.7 and I think it looks pretty good, but was informed there was no such thing. 
So since it is my RR, as so many have said do what you want, I'm going to see about the 1:20 dimensions of Ozark Combine and build it myself. 
I always feel so much more gratified doing it myself rather than relying on others.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a bit more progress to report.

First, I installed a solid spacer in place of the spring in the trailing truck as Jason Kovac had recommended. It made a tremendous difference. No derailments at all on today's outing to Larry Green's track as opposed to repeated derailments the time before. I also made a point of deburring the arched slot in the truck to ensure smooth swinging from side to side.











I then moved on to building a spark arrestor. I've done this for three other engines with good success and decided to tackle the Fairymead. I made it of a lathe-turned brass core and pieces of brass screen. All of the parts were bonded together using JB Weld epoxy. JB Weld handles high temperatures well and the first three arrestors I built have seen plenty of use. 











The first thing I did was to turn a base piece of brass and a mandrel of styrene and bolted them together.













I put a wrap of masking tape around the mandrel to prevent any oozed epoxy from bonding it to the screen. I wrapped the base and mandrel with brass screen, taped the screen in place and worked epoxy through the screen to bond it to the base.












When the JB Weld hardened, I unbolted the mandrel and took it out. Then, I cut a disk of screen and bonded it to the screen cylinder which was already in place. Finishing consisted of filing the epoxy smooth all around and painting the assembly.

My next project will be to install a maple pilot beam with a Kadee coupler mounted to it.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I finished the maple pilot beam for my loco today. The one that comes on the Fairymead is very serviceable; but, I preferred to use real wood. The coupler is a Kadee #905. The coupler assembly is fairly large and going with the bigger maple beam makes the coupler seem less overwhelming.





















Looks as if most of us periodically use a rubber ruler when mixing 1" scale doll house miniatures with our 7/8" scale trains. My friend Larry Green used to model 1" scale standard gauge ride-on trains and brought out a headlamp which he built back then. Even if we squint hard, and allow for the small difference in scale, it's huge. Just goes to show how diminutive the 2 foot gauge trains really are compared to standard gauge.









 
Because my loco is to represent one which is used on a modern day tourist railway, I'll be "modernizing" it. The next step is to fabricate a model of an electric headlight.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Very nice pilot beam Lynn. I really like how your engine is coming together. Mike


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

My next step in fitting out my Fairymead was to add an electric headlamp. I discovered that the headlamp which came with the model was made of brass plates, turnings and castings which were soft soldered together. Because I didn't have a tool the right shape to turn the reflector, I disassembled the stock headlamp. The turning with the reflector was not as deep as I wanted, so I soldered some brass to its back and turned the whole part to the diameter I wanted. I used a 21.5mm watch crystal for the lens and 6 volt grain of wheat bulb. I then machined a brass cradle piece which I soldered and screwed in place. The picture below shows my trial fitting. The following picture shows the finished project.



















The "conduit" to the headlamp is 0.032" dia. wire with heat shrink insulation around it. It can be formed easily and will hold its shape well. The other lead is grounded through the loco structure. The power for the light is taken from the 4.8 volt R/C battery pack.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Work has gone slowly. But, over the past five months, I've managed to add all of the details to make my Fairymead look the way I wanted it to. The first step was to add a generator. I used the largest one which Trackside Details offers and it looks quite believable. For the brake system, I added an air tank under the fuel/water bunker on the engineer's side.










I added the largest available Trackside Details air pump on the fireman's side. It's a bit small, but I've seen photos of two foot gauge prototypes which seem to have air pumps the are comparably small. For the coils of cooling pipe, I used a casting from Trackside Details.










I bought 7/8" scale brake hose and valve kits from Ozark Miniatures and installed them fore and aft.










The model came with a plain brass plate to cover the top of the fuel/water bunker and I needed to change it for two reasons. First, my Spektrum receiver is in the bunker and, when my loco got to the far end of the layout, I would often loose radio control unless I stood up and held the transmitter above my head. The track at Larry Green's layout is mounted on aluminum pans and I think they act as a bit of a shield. Also, the bunker is basically a closed metal box which will somewhat shield the receiver. So, I made a new cover of thin model aircraft plywood and that solved the radio control problems. My second reason for changing the cover was to add detail. Certainly, the loco would have had a water fill hatch and a bunker for coal. The hatch is made of styrene. The boards around the coal load are ordinary wood strips and the coal is the real thing - just crushed to a small enough size to look believable.



















Mechanically, my refitting process is completed. All that remains is to touch up the paint, do a bit of weathering and add lettering and numbers.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi Llyn,

Wonderful work -- this has turned out to be a very elegant little engine! My opinion is that the sizes for the turbogenerator and air pump work just fine, as anything larger would visually overwhelm the small-diameter boiler.

Has the use of the water tank for the R/C gear (instead of a reserve water supply) made a difference in how you run the engine?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Joel,

Giving up the water reservoir and hand pump has not been a problem for me. The water in the boiler has to be topped up on a regular basis no matter how you do it. With the supplied hardware, you have to lift the tank top off, put the pump lever on and pump. With my loco, I flip the cab roof aside, attach a pump bottle to the Goodall valve and pump. Either is about the same amount of work and takes the same amount of time. For me, the decision driver was having a convenient, dry place for the radio control gear.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

The last things needed to complete this project were lettering and numbering. The lettering and numbering on the sides of the loco were easily managed with vinyl from G Scale Graphics. The number plate on the smoke box door was another matter. I had bought my Emma first and assigned it number 1. Its number plate was blank and I managed to cut a numeral 1 from sheet brass and bond it in place. When the Fairymead came out, it turned out that the prototype was number 1 and that’s the number that appeared on the model’s number plate. So, I decided to make this model number 2 any way I could.

I really was not eager to cut the number from a sheet of brass. It occurred to me that I had designed some parts and had Shapeways 3D print them in plastic. Shapeways now can print parts in brass; so, I drew a numeral 2 in Sketchup and gave it a thickness of 0.5mm and sent the file off for printing. I chose “rough brass” as opposed to “polished brass.” It wasn’t cheap. It cost a little over $10. They sent it to me in a little jewelry bag.









 
I used a ball-tip burr in a Dremel tool to abrade away the numeral 1 on the number plate and bonded my new numeral 2 in place with JB Weld.









 
I sanded the numeral 2 bright with 600 grit paper, painted the background black and coated the entire number plate with clear gloss paint.









 
Finally, the customization project is complete and I’ve decided to declare victory.









 
The Fairymead has proven to be an excellent little loco to customize. I’m grateful that Jason Kovac took this project on and got it to market.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Very, very nice.

Hey, if you don't want the stock headlamp, lmk...


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Ray,

I dismantled the original headlight in order to reuse its reflector in the new headlight.


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