# americanized Lady Anne frame



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I am building a Mogul based on a Roundhouse Lady Anne. One thing that needs to be changed is the frame. the stock frame is a solid plate, American practice is bar frames. I had planned just to cut out the stock frame either by hand with drills, saws and files or with my milling machine. another thought is to laser cut new frames with some detail added.








the new frame is lower and has added spring and suspension detail, a longer front deck frame, reversed center driver location. Does anyone have any interest in getting a set? I can make modifications to suit before I send out my files to be cut. 
New frame shown in black old in green:


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

15 years ago, I would have jumped on this in a heartbeat! One thing--the hole in the frame between the #2 and #3 axle, if I recall correctly, is for a cross stabilizer bar, which is 1/4" square. Are you going to have enough clearance between that and the wheel flanges with it lowered closer to the center of the axle like that? I suppose you could rotate it 45 degrees and give yourself some additional room... 

Cosmetically, I'd also open up the back of the frame and taper it up a bit towards the rear. That way you can put a "cosmetic" firebox between the frame for additional realism. 

Good luck with this! 

Later, 

K


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

thanks Ken-- 

I am still messing with the design...there will be an actual coal firebox back there, resting atop the frame with a deep dry sided extension hanging down between the frames, ash pan below. Your suggestion has merit and I will look into it...havnt really gotten to that point yet.

The location for that screw between the drivers is moving around a bit...will end up between the forward and center and provide mounting for an axle pump.


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Eric, 
I've done a number of Lady Anne "americanized" frames over the years and have cut them out on my Sherline mill. If you make a run of frames I'd like to get two sets. They will save me a lot of build time on future projects.

Mike McCormack

Hudson, Massachusetts


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Eric, 

It looks like you are working in a CAD program? Can you tell me anything about what you're using, and what is involved to produce a design such as this, such that a manufacturer with laser tooling can produce it? 

Thanks.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Great project Eric. Nothing runs like a roundhouse. That's a fantastic transformation. I also agree with Kevin's comments about the rear frame, stuck out to me too. That's going to be a great build.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Eric I cant wait to see this build log. ooks like it will be a fun one to do. Im sure with your talent it will be nice.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have revised the frame drawing based on my needs and suggestions from you guys. As there seems to be some interest in this frame, I have revised it to be more compatible with the Roundhouse kit. 

the lower rear has been cut out for an ash pan and the top rear raised back to the original height with the original holes. 

the front is raised up to original height pilot deck as well but lengthened to accept a lead truck. I placed a hole for a stretcher in a place that would allow installation of a Roundhouse lead truck. 

note that the center driver is shifted aft to look more like the Baldwin engines used in Maine. the kit's side rods should work fine though just flipped.


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Cool project. Like Kevin and Mike, I've done this by hand and it was not a great deal of fun.This should be much easier to build and look much better in the bargain.


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Eric, 

Your changes are right on the mark. I'm still in for two sets when you run them. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I got the frames in the mail today. Jason Kovac had them cut and they look good! I have to make bushings for the drive axles and press them in. the axle holes were cut slightly undersized so they can be reamed for a precise fit. I am not sure that was necessary.

I also made progress on the boiler.


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## steveciambrone (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have an Over and Under ream set and use the Under sized ream they will press in quite nicely. 

For example a bushing with a .25" OD, use the .249" under sized ream. 


Thanks 
Steve


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I only have a standard size ream but as I have to make the bushings too, i can make em any size!


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Glad to see that you are doing some work







And not like me, nothing


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

"I can make em any size!". But Eric, the trick is to make them all the same size! 
Once around 50 years ago during my toolmaker apprenticeship, my boss told me: "If you can't make them right, at least make them all the same". 
I'm enjoying following your thread. 

Larry


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I assembled the engine frame after installing bronze bushings for the axles. setting the boiler in place gives the sense of the final engine to life. I had to do a little re-reaming and filing for smooth operation, just as I did on the stock frames.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I love it!  
Did you make the engines yourself, or did you buy it? 
The wheels, where they cut by CNC/milling machine and by whom? 
The frames, they are 2mm mild steel right?


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

This engine is based on a Lady Anne Chassis kit from Roundhouse. the cylinders, cranks, siderods and axles are stock as will be the valve gear. I machined the wheels on my home CNC mill and lathe. obviously I am building the boiler. 

I think the steel frame is about 1.5mm as was the stock kit's frame.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The frames were laser cut from about 1/16" steel. 14ga I think. I did run some extras for future use if anyone else was wanting to build a similar loco. 

Larry - Once around 50 years ago during my toolmaker apprenticeship, my boss told me: "If you can't make them right, at least make them all the same". That's great. I remember in HS shop the Mr. Burke used to say the same thing.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I found the forum where you show the brass wheels before machining on the lathe http://www.7-8ths.info/index.php?topic=16684072.0


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Before I can fully assemble the engine onto the frame I need to make and install the axle pump. It has taken me a bit of thinking but here is a drawing of what I plan to build. I have built several feed pumps of various types and found it useful to make disassembly possible for future maintenance so will use "banjo" style fittings for the plumbing...just gotta make em tight!


because the axles are pretty closely spaced, I thought I best reach around the center axle with the connecting rod. the pump will be located between the first and second axle. it will be mounted on a "stretcher" between the frames. two holes were cut into the frame to hold this stretcher.









any thoughts from the experts are welcome.


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## HampshireCountyNarrowGage (Apr 4, 2012)

Eric, 

I noticed in the last photo that you have the main crank pin on the third driver. All the Maine moguls were driven on the center driver, even P & P #3. Just wondering.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Quite right Chester-- the Lady Anne kit comes that way. I have thought of fixing that but havent done anything about it yet.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Eric The bore and stroke if .250x.250? I might make the stroke longer. Maybe 5/16. As you are coal firing and running slower then a mainline loco you will need the extra pump per stroke. Better more then not enough. 

Eric, draw up a new main rod and I can cut it on the next order.


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## ChrisBerry (Feb 9, 2010)

Eric, 

this is a wonderfully inspiring thread. 

In response to a couple of questions ago, I wondered why not to design a 2-8-0 along the same lines. Add another set of driving wheels at the back. Drive off the third wheelset without changing the geometry of the valve gear............ I have never liked the straightforward Lady Anne chassis design with the long connecting rod with 3 axels. Would the Roundhouse cylinders cope with the extra wheels? 

Anyhow, this thread is a good reason to keep looking at this forum - please keep us up to date! 

Chris


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Chris, 

This idea was done a few years ago when Jim Curry (a neighbor of Eric's) made up laser cut frames that used the Roundhouse cylinders to make a "stock" Baldwin export 2-8-0 frame. I have used these frames to make an outside framed 2-8-0 and am currently working on an inside frame 2-8-0 using Walsall (from England) drivers and RH cylinders. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## HampshireCountyNarrowGage (Apr 4, 2012)

Hey Eric!! How's the mogul coming along?


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have been side tracked by the Emma project but haven't forgotten the Lady either!


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