# Need G scale Fishplates



## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

I'm trying to locate fishplates for my code 250 track.
They don't have to be functional...I'm working on an indoor display.
If you know of anywhere I may try, please post it.
Thanks.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I know that they existed at one time because I have a few. Picked them up off Ebay several years ago. I'm guessing it was Micro Engineering. Not listed but thats where I would check.


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## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

Thanks Paul. ME has tieplates but they don't list any fishplates. 
I only need 3 for this project but just haven't been able to find any G scale fishplates.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Are you after code 250 rail joiners or modeled fishplates with bolt detail? 

Scroll down mid page. They are for code 180 or 200. Not sure about code 250. In the UK I think.
Cliff Barker - Gauge 1 Products 


Edit, they look to be for bullhead rail









Andrew


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I've had success using Llagas Creek insulated joiners to represent fishplates. They make them in code 250 and 215. 
http://www.llagastrack.com/pricelist.html


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## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

Thanks for the links guys.
Since my purpose is for an indoor 24" display on 250 rail, I would like to get some detail and the Cliff Barker code 200 fishplates show the type of detail that I would like to have. 
Just don't know how they will look with my rail.
So, I will get some of these and see.
Appreciate you help with this.

Best,
Glenn


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Glenn, 
Here's my advice since you're basically handlaying a small section for display purposes. First decide if Code 250 is the right height. If so proceed, if not consider code 215. It has a much lower profile and looks much better in my opinion for upclose track. 
Secondly since you're only laying a few few of rail why not make your own fishplates? All you would need is either some small I beams (if you want to get really detailed), or find a piece of sheet of styrene that matches the height between the web and the head of the rail. Then purchase some HO scale NBW sets, and a few brass pins. Then simply glue the NBW on the styrene strip alternating with the brass pins (to represent the bolt head) and then CA on your rail. Prior to CA'ing the styrene to the rail, take a razor saw and cut a small slit in the head of the rail to represent the joint between the two rails. 
Here's some better pictures of the Llagas insulated rail joiners. 
This is code 215 rail. 








Notice that the llagas creek joiners (and the Cliff Barker ones) do not alternate the bolt heads with the NBW detail. Where I need to use the Llagas joiners I place the NBW detail on the outside of the rail as the flanges of the wheels will hit the NBW detail. Here's the other side. 








I''m using the Llagas joiners to allow my points on my turnout to move. 
Closeup of the joiner. 

















Now for what I've done... 
This is the HO scale NBW detail. I forget what size, but you can see that it is pretty close in size to the NBW on the Llagas part. 








One the left hand side of the photo is a slightly smaller NBW detail. 
I've used the smaller NBW details to detail the points on my turnout. 








Here's my thread I did a couple years back about my #9 turnout build. It looks like some of the pictures have been lost, but the info contained within might be worth your time. 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aft/123060/Default.aspx
As for Tieplates. I use Hardford tieplates as they are the only tie plates produced in large scale that have 4 holes per plate (and look about right for 1/29). 

Craig


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## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

bnsfconductor,
Thanks for the post and the great photos.
Looks like a great idea that I could actually do.
My boxcar is USA 1:24 so I thought that 250 code would be better suited than 215.
Knowing that my boxcar is 1:24, what do you think?


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Doesn't really matter much one way or another. I'd personally say go with a smaller profile (code 215). Again that is just my personal choice. Code 250 works just fine too... Just pick one and go with it.


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## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

Is there a difference in the 'finish' between aluminum rail vs. the nickle silver rail?
I'm just wondering if the nickle silver is 'smoother' or more polished?
And, will both the aluminum and Nickle Silver accept paint without a problem?


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By coh2000 on 28 Jan 2014 08:49 PM 
Is there a difference in the 'finish' between aluminum rail vs. the nickle silver rail?
I'm just wondering if the nickle silver is 'smoother' or more polished?
And, will both the aluminum and Nickle Silver accept paint without a problem?
I have no idea. I use aluminum for two reasons; one it's cheaper and easier to work with, and second I run battery power so I don't have to worry about electrical problems associated with aluminum. I use regular Rustolum "Camo Brown" to weather my rails. Similar to what others have used.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is an interesting link I ran across. Look at bottom of page under track products.
http://www.ironcreekshops.com/products.html


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## coh2000 (Dec 6, 2013)

Thanks for the link to ironcreekshops. 
Tie Plate Plugs? Sold out, but the loose items show 3 holes and look different from what is on the track in this photo. 
Never seen anything like these before.


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