# Aristo SD-45 lights? Mounting?



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have 4 SD-45s 


I am installing Airwire decoders in two of them. 

They will be paired up like a Cow and a Calf. 

My Questions is 

I would like to convert all of their lighting circuits to LEDs

Has anyone done this?

Got suggestions? 

Looks like I could take some of the PC boards and just add LEDs to them.

What about the silicone gobs that they use for mounting.

Anyone got a source for that?

JJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A source for silicon or hot melt glue?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

All Aristo engines/rolling stock I have seen use hot glue. 
It breaks off real easy. A little heat and it softens, but gets messy real fast. 
Cold will make it more brittle. I kept a caboose in my unheated garage (Massachusetts) over the winter and it fell apart much like the LGB activated dynamite car. 

So, heat will allow it to soften and wires can be pulled from the mess. 
Cold will allow hot glue to be removed from the plastic casing.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Sacred Manure.....I forgot about Hot Glue.


Wait till Home Depot Opens. 

I don't think it will be a problem in AZ desert yet as I don't leave my engines outside 

But if I ever get my car barns finished That will tell...

JJ


PS Are all hot glue guns created equal?....Or are some better than others? Is the glue completely interchangeable between brands?


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

hello JJ 
sounds like a net project. first all hot glue and glue guns are not created equal. there are deferent temps. 
second I redid the lighting in a gp40 and just gutted it. just got my first sd45 yesterday there seams to be more room it to work around the lighting so 
if I were to change over I would just gut it. I changed to airwire also but used airwire's adapter. 
3rd before I worked on the lights I would make sure the airwire board can handle 8 motors. 
good luck and keep us updated. 
Dick


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## wgn4884 (May 23, 2013)

JJ, hot glue is definitely an option, but it is hard to use without making a mess in my experience. I suggest you consider getting a tube of Bondo at an auto parts store and experiment with it. It comes out as a thick paste, so a glob could be squeezed on a scrap of something, then a little applied where you want it with a toothpick. It dries fairly quickly, but there is time to work it before it hardens. 

Bill


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

An advantage of hot glue is that it can be removed and reworked, like things fail or you want to change. Get one of the small guns from the crafts store, and don't get the low temp stuff because you are in the desert. 

Notice it is what many manufacturers use in the first place. 

I'd worry about being able to re-work bondo. 

Greg


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I use a silicone type substance for this application as well as others... PFM, Shoe-Goo and many others are out there that are essentially the same product. These adhesives are very strong, pliable, won't crack, adheres to almost anything and can be removed with little effort. 

FWIW: Note that many silicone adhesives are NOT recommended for electrical work and or electronic components because they utilize acetic acid to promote curing (vinegar smell). Silicone works great as long as its electronic grade silicone! 

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/p.f.m_adhesive_sealant_3.7_oz_2851_prd1.htm 

Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, if you smell vinegar while it is curing, you have the wrong stuff! 

I sort of like silicon, but when I have to "tack" something in place, the hot glue is much more convenient, since it cures in seconds, not hours. Also, not to be argumentative, but it is NOT easy to remove, you can usually break the chunk of hot glue off by grabbing it with needle nose pliers... no way that will happen with the silicon, you just chew it up into chunks.. 

Greg


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Hay JJ how's it coming here is a good page with a lot of wiring. 
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips8/sd45_tips.html 
dick


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

J.J., put the shell and cab in the freezer for several hours. The hot melt can then be easly popped off using a pair of needle nose pliers. To remount the boards, I use Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant. Works great, easy to remove later and also helps block light leakage around the LED's.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Sorry Guys


I forgot about this post 

Thanks for the input and tips.

My SD -45 was used and had been molested inside.

I gutted it and converted everything to LEDs.

JJ 

JJ


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