# Regner Class A Climax



## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Over a year ago Regner announced that they were producing a Class A Climax in three styles: Vertical boiler, straight boiler and T boiler. Being a huge fan of the Climax I placed an order fr one. Thetime had finalley come and Regner finally shipped the Class A Climax. When Jay called and told me it was in I decided to take a ride and pick it up rather then wait till tuesday for the mail. 

Regner always packs their parts well and tight so nothing rattles. After unwrapping all the parts I checked everything and so far so good. The only problem I see so far is the directions are in German. Apperently they have not done an English version yet. This might cause a bit of a challenge but at least I have pictures to go by. I love pictures.

Box












All the parts














Motor


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Step 1

The first step is putting the two trucks to tegether. Below are all the parts required. A few of the wooden parts have to be glued. and the rest are just screwed on.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine is due next week. Your photos are appreciated while I wait.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I managed to get the trucks together. Overall it was fairly easy. The only problem I ran into was one side of the wood pieces with the grooves (see below) should have been glued after everything was assembled. The two T looking pieces with two larger eye looking holes are glued onto that metal flat bar. One should be glued after everything is assembled otherwise you cant slip the axles on with the side truck frame. Im sure it is clear in the directions but I can read German grrrrrrrr................................

The springs were a challenge but I found threading some string through the springs prevents the springs from flying across the room. 
One thing I noticed is only one axle per truck is geared. The other has no gears. 
















The easy fix to my problem was to cut out the notches on the bottom piece (see picture below) The wood piece below the two springs have notches that go against the truck frame. (See two photos comparing cut piece vs uncut). Doing the cut has no effect on anything as long as the other side is not cut. Eventually I will glue a piece to replace what was cut. Because its wood its easy to repair or replace. 

Bottom piece not cut













Bottom piece cut so it can slide through frame












Completed trucks


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

You will have great fun with this...I can see !!!


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I made more progress over the weekend. I manged to get the deck and frame together. It was fairly easy assembling the deck and the braces for the motor. As long as you study the pictures and pay attention to what way everything faces.

Parts laid out












All the pieces glued and clamp together












Once everything was dried I bolted the motor to the frame. This was a simple task that requires 6 bolts. 










The truck brackets and trucks were then added as well as the drive shaft.










while connecting the drive shafts I noticed the back shaft was too long, not allowing the truck to go straight. After looking everything over and making sure I didn't miss anything (because all holes are predrilled its hard to be off on the placement of things) I decided that I had to cut some of the shaft to shorten it. It was an easy task using my dremal and a file. After putting the shaft back together I was able to swing the trucks around with nothing getting tight. 

Below is the shaft. The truck could not swing anymore












Drive shaft cut. Now it can swing freely. It has no effect on the dia curve. Like the shay the shaft does not pull out of sleeve very much.












The next step is putting the boiler together and mounting it. Below are the parts required


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Looking good! 

Government job? Looks like three men are "supervising," and only one is working.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn,
I didn't notice in the specs - but is the gearbox operable? Looks like there is a lever to change gears - any chance of a close-up showing how it works ?

Great thread btw. I've had my eye on a class A Climax build for a while.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete there is a lever that switches the gear ratio. I don't remember seeing anything in the specs. I'll get a close up when I get home tonight or in morning.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, very nice progress. Please be aware!!! I remember an article published in SiTG a few years a go about another Regner wooden locomotive named MAX. The line that foremost comes to mind is "Max was ablaze". 
I also remember reading where the owner rebuilt Max using metal instead of wood and now it runs at Diamond Head every year, and has the badges to show it. To bring a locomotive out of ashes,I have deep respect for that. 
And now I'm sure I will be spanked for bringing this up.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

No spanking, you spoke the truth. The Max is (with out the factory add-on ceramic burner) fired by gelled alcohol or sterno. Seems like when the Max would move under steam, the breeze had a propensity to fan the flames and also direct them towards the wooden fencing. The "T" boiler above has a poker burner, so hopefully less of a risk.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. 
Nick I guess anything is possible when you are dealing with wood and fire lol. As Dave said that uses sterno and the flame is more open. I have the same set up on my project engine and so far no fires lol..... 

Pete here are the photos I promised:


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

two questions if anyone can answer:
After I weather the wood is their something I can use to protect it from water and heat? or should I not worry about it?

I want to darken all the bras parts including the motor. If I use that brass darkening solution on the motor will it do an damage to it?


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Hot fuel-proof model airplane dope will seal the wood against moisture and oil splatter, and should withstand the heat.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

that two speed gear box is interesting! 

I think that a flat varnish should be fine...even the waterbased stuff now available


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I know in all of the electrical/utility rooms that I work the back boards are coated in fire retardant paint, so there is possibly the same material in a stain? One of the beauties of that locomotive is the wood planking and you'd want to keep that look for sure. 
That gear box sure looks interesting.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> here are the photos I promised:


Thanks - very interesting. Nice little dog clutch. I guess you could put an r/c servo on it. Though I always wondered about a geared loco needing 2 speeds. Guess it can go faster on flat track!


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete I wondered about that as well. Be curious to see the difference. Hopefully in a week or so Ill get a test run in.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Depending on how you finish your wood, you might want to start with sanding sealer.

I'd look at spar varnish for a durable finish, though based on wanting to darken the brass, it sounds like you're going for an aged appearance?

The heat of a small steamer drying out the wood and causing cracking might be a concern. Cutting board oils would help with that.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

My A-Climax was stained with the ubiquitous alcohol/shoe dye mixture without any sealant. It was completed in 2000 and has since aged gracefully. Oil stains around the engine keep the wood from deteriorating. 








By the way, the truck is not derailed, it is supposed to show the extreme flexibility of a Climax. It is a pity Regner did not duplicate the "heart" of a Climax, the skew bevel gears. I guess, the bean counters opposed the idea.
Regards


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys.
I agree it is too bad Regner "did not duplicate the "heart" of a Climax, the skew bevel gears". I dont think there is any mention of this in the specs or any pictures from what I have seen. Its still a nice looking steamer and the only Class A on the market.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not sure why its straight cut pinion gears but this is a reintroduction from many years ago (1994) so the chassis has not changed though the motor is new. With the CNC cutting they have the gear is no problem. At least in my mind


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

In what context are we talking about *skew* bevel gears? We are not talking about straight cut vs. spiral or hypoid cut gears, are we?


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the boiler complete. It went together easily. The hardest was the sight glass but luckily I have replaced these in the past. After testing the sight glass for leaks and put the oiler together and the gas tank. I replaced the Regner stock gas filler valve off and put the more common Ronson style valve. It all went together easily using photos. It also helps having done a Lumberjack kit. 
The final step was to fit all the plumbing. Now I just have to wait for my brass darkener to come in and weather the decking. Then I can secure everything. 

Boiler completed









oiler 









Gas tank









Plumbing fitted


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes Tom skew bevel, spiral bevel. All the same gears. I know that Mike Chaney CNC'd all the Climax gears on his CNC mill when he build the Climax for Ron Brown.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

The climax gearing consists of a right angle drive for each axle. In order to get the drive shaft to the axles beyond the ones nearest the motor, the drive shaft passes above (below? Cant recall) the wheel axles. Thus the larger bevel gear on the axle has to have its teeth cut at an angle to match the offset drive shaft pinnion. This type of gear is not a spirol gear. The teeth are basically straight but angled. They are not available from precision gear manufacturers like StockDrive.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

*I have done a little more digging, and I found this in the Miriam-Webster Dictionary...*


*skew bevel gear*

_noun_

*Definition of SKEW BEVEL GEAR*

*:* a bevel gear in which the axes lie in different planes 

*It looks like the word "skew" has more to do with the plane in which the two axles are located, rather than the shape of the gears. Although when your axles are "skewed" you may need different shaped gear teeth (such as spiral or hypoid), in order to mesh properly.*


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

This is what I found https://www.google.com/search?q=ske...KFKKCsQTXpYCIDg&ved=0CCcQsAQ&biw=1240&bih=611
You decide


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Tes Tom a Skew bevel gear has a offset centerline. It also gives you more engagement area. 

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2423/3893596541_9a6365a60c.jpg


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Tom,
This is the picture that Jason's link goes to. This best explains the difference between a bevel gear and a skew bevel gear. The teeth are "skewed" on both the ring and pinion gears but are straight not curved. 
Thanks Jason!
Larry


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Since Ron Brown and Mike Chaney have been mentioned, I just thought I'd relive some info for those new members. Ron Brown was the originator of Steam in The Garden RR Magazine. He imported very fine and limited locomotives built by Mike Chaney of the UK under the name of Catatonk Loco Works
I am HONORED to have two of them, one being the Climax previously mentioned and a Heisler that he and I rebuilt. I sent the motor back to Mike several years ago and he not only rebuilt the engine but re-engineered the valve gear and transmission design different than the original. I changed the shaft design so the transmission was fixed and the drive shafts allowed for the difference on a curve like a Shay. On a minor note I totally disassembled, stripped and re-painted the Locomotive. I am thrilled with both of them and a tribute to a real designer and craftsman. I would be remiss if I didn't also mention the Shays that Mike designed and built. To have all three would be the Trifecta of Live Steamers. 
THANK YOU MIKE AND RON FOR YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE LIVE STEAM COMMUNITY


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I got a little behind waiting for the brass darkening solution and some India ink for weathering the wood. I was able to start building the cab while waiting The cab was fairly easy just had to wait for the glue to dry before I could move to the next step. I might end up adding some small hex screws in the cab and frame for more support.
Parts for cab/frame










All the brass parts were then darkened. I debated long and hard on whether i should darken the brass or keep it shiny. The fact is it would not be a logging engine if everything was pretty. That pretty much made up my mind. I also started to weather the wood some using the India ink and alcohol. A few coats were applied until I got the look I was after. Once that was completed the boiler, gas tank, stack and piping were all hooked up and the cab was fitted. The only issue I ran into was the screws. The two screws for the gas tank were too long. I solved this by cutting them shorter. Not a big deal. I also broke one of the hex heads on the screw when screwing into the tank. You have to be super careful with these, as the heads will snap very easy, even if they are over tightened slightly. 










Next step is the roof and weathering the cab. Below are the parts for the roof.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Shawn,

I started mine yesterday. Did the inventory and got all the small parts for step 1 done before I got caught. I thought the Aster kits had small screws. I'm having to readjust my thinking and get another nut driver. 

I also want to send my thanks to all the software programmers who provide computer translation software.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Joe. Good luck and feel free to post pictures of your progress on here.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

The Climax is finally done (other then a few personal details I still have to add) The roof was finished and all the detailed parts were put on. The rest of the wood was weathered. I brushed on steam oil to the wood surfaces to protect the wood. Once I had it together i tightened all the steam fittings etc..... It lite on the first try but as soon as steam started to build I found the sight glass was leaking. I had to shut it down and redid the sight glass. It took a few tries wrapping plumbers tape around the nut and glass tube. I did eventually get it. The second time I lite the gas. As the steam started to build i found a few minor leaks in the connections. All were fixed by tightening the nuts. One other thing I noticed was Regner does not provide a pressure gauge. I found it odd since all u other regner engines came with them. Once the safety blew I turned the throttle up and off it went. It ran at a nice slow speed. Changing the gears adds a tad more speed but less power. It will take a few runs to get everything broke in but I think I got a keeper.
Now I just need to add the top off system, chuffer and a head light. 










A few things that would have been nice:
pressure gauge 
Headlight
Extra screws (I had two missing)
All axles geared rather then only two.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Looking good, Shawn.

That sure went together quickly.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

I think I'm going to miss the pressure gauge. They help a lot in balancing the firing.

Really going to have to come up with a headlight. Got a couple I could steal off of old Bachmann engines that are way past their prime but it would have to be removable for running.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Joe, A gauge is available as a add on. About 70.00 for the syphon and gauge.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Let me get this straight. Over $2200, and only two of the axles are driven, and no pressure gauge. *What a deal.*


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, looks like a nice reproduction of a back woods locomotive, and your build is beautiful. 
Tom, after a careful look at the parts, it does look like only one axle on each truck is powered, so on even slightly uneven track one wheel could easily loose traction, or possibly two, one one on each truck. OR very floppy trucks may be Regner's answer?? Personally I don't like either scenario. Now I see more of what Eric and Henner posted about, and now to realize it cost even more for a pressure gauge and headlight??
No dispursions on those that purchased it since it was the only one of it's type on the market, but I do think for the price Regner could have done better. If they see it doesn't sell very well they will make it better, or just discontinue it like the over head engine with chain drive of the past. JMHO.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with the above. All the other easy line engines that cost less comes with a pressure guage. Why not the Climax. I didnt even think to check before buying it because like the others I assumed it had one. The headlight I thought it came with it considering they show one in the picture and there was no mention of it in the catalog. At least the Lumber Jack it specifically says no headlight. I can leave with one axle on each truck being geared but looking at the specs it even says its all axle driven?????
T-boiler
Length/width/Height 430/130/195 mm (measured over the stack)
Weight 2.5 kg
Teflon pistons
Cylinder bore: 8mm diameter
Stroke: 10mm
Sprung trucks
2 speed selector gearbox (high/low)
all axles driven
min rad R1 (600mm)
Adjustable gauge 30, 32 45mm
Scale 1:22.5
Gas fired T-boiler 
190 cm³ fill/steam volume to be maintained/supplemented by adding water
Order# 26020 unassembled kit € 1'595 
Note: the wood contained in the kit is unfinished (needs to be finished as desired).


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, if that is an exact reproduction of the add, you certainly can't be blamed for being unsatisfied. Unfortunately we have seen this before, and will more than likely see it again in the future. The excitement of finally receiving something you ordered almost a year ago can be overwhelming. 
When receiving a new hobby piece, be very carful when un packing the parts carefully inspect what you get, and if it isn't EXACTLY what you ordered, just sent it back. I've done it in the past and sorry to say, the same manufacturer.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm waiting to see how she steams before final judgement but I am happy with this purchase. 

Regner's Easy Line is a very nice entry level model at a fair price. After a couple of Aster builds, this one seems cheap. There just aren't many geared locos available and they fit my layout just perfectly.

One big advantage to this one is offers a bunch of possibilities for bashing which is a definite plus for me.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

steamtom1 said:


> Let me get this straight. Over $2200, and only two of the axles are driven, and no pressure gauge. *What a deal.*


 
Tom how about a 2,000.00 Roundhouse Jack that does not have a sightglass? I have one of those as does many others. There will always be some sort of shortcomings to everyone. No one will ever be satisfied 100% of the time. Being this is a limited run loco, they plan to only build so many and that's it. The Easy line RTR are cheaper because they share the same frame and most of the other parts including the boiler too. Only different cabs and a few details are changed. 

The Climax was shown for the last 2-3 years at shows before it was added to the recent catalog. See a video of the 2013 Lanfair show in the UK.





 
It certainly doesn't look like it will have any wheel slippage. As to the setup of the drive, Could it of been skew bevel gears, sure. Does Regner make them, not that I have seen. Do they know how? No clue. The 1994 Climax has the same drive and they used the same design. As Shawn knows from his Bagrs loco with a single axle drive he has no issues pulling a decent train for the loco on his past track with grades and uneven spots being laid in ballast. 

Looking at images of both climax locos, none show a pressure gauge, though the original shows a old box headlamp that is no longer available. The new T boiler shows as build kit with no lamp, and the sample in the video is also shows on the catalog though painted and detailed with a few little add on parts like the lamp and the safety extension pipe along with some decals. 

I have asked about the drive when I first saw it and have yet to get a reply. Did not expect a gauge or lamp as the sample image for the production kit does not show them.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

It all boils down to Buyer Beware, and ASK ASK ASK a reliable source, and don't assume anything. 'Nothing runs like a Roundhouse', no comparison. 
' Looks like it will not have any slippage' is no excuse for the statement of 'all axles driven'. If that is a copy of the ad published. 
Also if you check the Accucraft site for just a few $$ more you can have so much more locomotive, site glass, pressure gauge, head lamp and on some adjustable oil feed. No wood, all brass and Stainless Steel. As others have done, remove the metal and add wood or veneer where you want to. 
You have now confirmed my previous statement, "in IMHO this looks like a collection of unused parts from past creations thrown together". And there has been no improvement in 20 years? 
I still do like the transmission. thank you


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Dont get me wrong it is still a great engine and well worth it because no one else makes a Class A Climax and I always loved Regners quality. The exchange rate is the killer in the price. Not worth sending it back because of this. Would a pressure guage be nice, yes but its not the end of the world. The two gear motor is a very nice and im sure will be a strong puller. Look at the Otto. That pulls great for a single cyliner engine. 
I just find it odd that all the other easy line engines comes with the pressure guage. The easy solution for me was to take the Guage out of my Konrad where it is not needed as much. The headlight I expected because non of my other Regners came with one.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, please don't get me wrong, I am not blaming you at all. I do know the excitement of ordering a new locomotive, and the wonderful anticipation of the wait for it to arrive. But I also know the disappointment of finding out it wasn't what you expected. QUOTE "No one can be expected to be satisfied 100% of the time"!!!!! 
OH YES for that price we can expect to be VERY happy, not disappointed.

As my father used to say, "wrong me once shame on you, wrong me twice shame on ME"


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry to bring it back up, 
But you, they only authorized distributor of the Regener product in the US asked about the drive and still haven't received a response?? 
Only leaves me to believe Regner really doesn't care for the US market, and assume we are just willing to accept what ever they send?
Even if falsely advertised?? thank you.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I learned a long time ago that "no answer IS an answer". we thank you.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Just an update on the Climax. I spent some time today testing run times etc..... I was very pleased with its run and run time. I had some trouble getting it lite and once lit, the slightest movement would cause the the flame to go out. I think this was do to cool temperatures in my basement and the gas tank being far from the boiler. I put a hand warmer on top of the gas tank and it lite with no problems and stay lit. I was very pleased with the run time. It took 6 minutes for the safety to blow about 25 minutes on one boiler fill and 1 hr 45 min using the top off. I still had gas left but I gave up waiting lol...,.....
I also added some hex screws to the cab beams to help give the beams better support.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, sounds good. And as those cylinders seat you will get longer time between top offs.


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## Ron Tremblay (Aug 18, 2011)

Wow, that's a good run time. must be a very large gas tank.


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