# Recommendations for small track - ideas & techniques



## Merlin83 (Sep 23, 2011)

Greetings gentlemen,

I want to be able to set up and run a small test track for testing switch configurations and trying new ways to automate my regular larger track(s). Does anyone have ideas or recommendations for how big a piece of plywood to use and turn radius's I could get away with ? I want to be able to run pretty much (at different times) my collection of LGB engines. I don't have a lot, I have and Alco diesel, F7 A and B and a Swiss Klosters. 

I am very handy and comfortable building and using anything in the wood shop. My first plan was to cut a piece of nice Baltic birch plywood, router the edges with a nice bull nose smooth end and then from there mount it unto some type of mobile set up so I can roll it around whilst in the garage. So, could I get away with a 4 X 6 single piece ? 

The other idea I had was not put it on wheels and instead be able to hang onto the garage wall when not in use with french cleats, I have used these before and it's a nice technique for holding securely a heavy piece of cabinetry,etc.

If anyone has any pictures, that would be great or the maximum R#'s for turn radius's that I could use. I have scoured the web looking for design ideas and have not been able to find any. None of my friends are into trains - in fact many of them are just plain perplexed I am so into the train hobby itself.


Thanks for the help !

Brett


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I would suggest looking at track plans first to see what strikes your fancy. 

All LGB (with very few exceptions) will work in R1 curves... that's 4 foot diameter, so you need a board slightly wider (4 foot to the centerline of the track, you WILL need some extra clearance). 










Greg


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

if you want to set up a full circle (in Radius1) you need a minimum of 5' by 5'. 
for each R1 turnout or straight section - you'll have to add one foot in one of the directions. 
if you don't make a circle, the length of the board needs to be twice the length of the trains to be shunted - plus at least one foot for one R1 switch.
and at least six and a half inch width for each track


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

If you are feeling adventurous, check out my 'Pizza Pile Up' thread - three interlinked R1 loops in a space just a hair over 8.5 by 8.5 feet. Might turn into more than just a test track, though.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not quite sure what your goal is. Do you want a point to point switching layout or something with a continual loop? I can tell you based on the engines described your looking at something 5' wide to 6' to 7' long minimum for starts if you want a continuous loop with R1s you could squeeze a basic loop into a 4'-6" x 6'-6" area. My first indoor layout was that big but it was not designed for big LGB engines, R1 compatible or not. 

I will try to post my first indoor layout plan tommorow as I cannot access my pics from home.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

OK here is my first indoor layout, it never got beyond the Plywood Pacific stage as it was "supposed" to be retractable into the garage ceiling area but by the time I had built it I discovered how heavy these things can become even when lightly built out of 1x3 framing and 1/2" plywood. SO it got shoved against the back wall and reworked into the first permanant indoor layout. i still think theres the core of a fantasticly detailed custom layout here, all the buildings would need to be scratchbuilt, all the rolling stock would need to be shorties. 

I do find it funny that I did this, basically a Micro-layout, way way back in '04 after getting rousted from the garden area I was planning to build, and here I am today, still deeply immersed in Micro-layouts with my Pizza's which are the direct descendants from this venture.

The biggest detriment to your scheme is that a single F3 unit would be absolutly enormous on this small a layout, but smaller engines would be fine. alot depends on how detailed ( if any) your thinking of making it.


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