# Constructing styrene window frames?



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Can someone give me some tips (or point me in the right direction) for building accurate window frames out of styrene? The two areas I'm having trouble with are making a decent jig, and getting the window pieces glued securely. I'm working in 1/24th scale.

The last time I attempted this, I made a jig by glueing a rectangle of thin rubbery material to a smooth, flat surface. I then cut out grooves for the crosspieces of the window. Unfortunately the glue stuck to the rubber better than I expected and I had trouble getting the cut pieces pulled up out of the grooves. 

I also could not get the styrene parts to stick together well, using solvent type cement. Whenever I tried to remove a window from the jig, it would fall apart.

I'm sure I can solve these problems eventually but I'd rather not waste time reinventing the wheel.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

I have a small article on window making at http://www.musiccorner.co.uk/a320/Making-1/20th-Scale-Sash-Windows/article_info.html. 

Bruce Chandler (The Joat) also has one , that is at http://www.jbrr.com/html/building_windows.html


. You say the jig does not work; make it from PVC or a non styrene plastic so the water thin plastic glue will not stick to it. 

My jigs are made from PVC and I do not have much sticking of the frame, I make the frames in two layers (of .020 plastic) and gently tease them out when one layer is done AND has been left to dry off for about 5 minutes, using a knife blade to lift it, check it stays square, and leave it to dry off completely before adding the second layer. 

Here is a photo of a jig and the window from it 














That jig made 10 windows to start with and I still use if for small windows, using just a part of the jig.


The windows are in two pieces, glued together, then the frame also 2 pieces added to that unit. The 'glass' is the clear packaging that is everywhere nowadays. I think it is polycarbonate but am not sure, paint the window unit; add the glass and the varnish with Johnson's Future from the supermarket (kitchen section) which will both protect it, and make the 'glass clearer - that tip is from the Military (airplane) modelers - they use the stuff on aircraft canopies.

They can be fiddly things to do, and do take a time but I have a fair number of jigs now, cut a number of strips at a time as they use a lot! To assist in accuracy use a small pair of spring dividers (from those (superseded by CAD) technical drawing instrument sets. My strips are just under 2mm wide.


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## njp (Dec 6, 2008)

Ray, I can't add anything to what's been said about construction. My only comment is on cutting the styrene parts. 
I use a piece of aluminum angle and several casement window locks, both available in all home inprovement stores . The angle is cut into 6-8" pieces and a casement lock is screwed to the angle to act as a stop. The stock you are cutting can be scored and snapped at the end of the angle. 
I use one for each size needed and never have to remeasure or reset anything. These things work great anytime you need to cut many pieced the same length. Their cheapnest allows you to have a set for each project and not have to reset the length of a "Chopper" or similar tool.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Ray, there was an article in GR several issues back about making window frames. I made a jig from a piece of wood the correct size for the interior of the window. Then built a box around it. I used "L" plastruc material for the frame, with the sashes etc on the inside of the box (remove the block. 

I cut everything to the approximate size, dry fitted them, then put a small drop of cement on the joints. Left it to dry, pried the window off the wood. Then glued the frame to a slightly larger piece of glazing. The glazing reinforces the frame, and the overlapgives a good gluing surface to attach the window to the building.


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

*Cabinet and fine furniture makers cut their pieces a little long and sand them to fit accurately. The same can be done with a True Sander. With it, you can *sand end cuts on wood or plastic for a fine fit. The guides allow you to accurately true any angle for perfect mitered corners and square cuts.








*Supplier: http://www.nwsl.com/ *
*Tool Name: True Sander*


*Supplier: http://www.micromark.com/ *
*Tool Number: 14475*


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I had the same problem too, but I solved it by making one master and gluing it directly to the stryene. Have you thought of using waxpaper between the form and your windows? When I have a drawing and and gluing up the part, I lay a piece of waxpaper of the drawing. It's clear enough to see where the parts should go, but prevents the glue from sticking to the paper. Could it work with your window jig? 
Craig


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Nip, Do you have a picture my brains not working. 

Dave


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## Lawrence Wallace (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a way I make my windows. 

http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/window/win7.jpg


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

I've found some good ideas in this thread and suggested links for the windows on my Juruth station. Thanks for bringing this up Ray!


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

If you want something slippery that glues may not stick to.

The backing for self-adhesive labels.

Parchment paper used in baking. It feels like Teflon impregnated paper and is slipperier and stronger than wax paper.

Ceramic cutting boards.

Nylon-like cutting boards.

A pane of glass if you are building to drawings. Use tape to hold the parts. Use hockey shin pad tape if using sturdy styrene parts. It is cheap, strong, cuts cleanly, will not leave a residue and stretches to form.

UHNF (ultra-high molecular weight) polyethylene, a rigid and slippery plastic used in woodworking jigs (Lee Valley). Can be formed using woodworking tools.


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## GG (Jan 1, 2009)

Check out UMPHE tape which is available at Lee Valley here in Canada. Sticks like tape and is slippery as heck... 

I use it on my old drawers in my home down east. 

gg


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Great tips from all. Myself, I've previously used wood, 'cause that's what I had around and it's easy to cut. There was occassional sticking, but nothing I couldn't pry lose with my Xacto knife. BTW, I use MEK to "glue" my styrene and you need only a dab, so unless I get sloppy, there's not much spilllover. 

However, for my next window project I am going to use all glass--for the base plate and for the little squares that separate the panes. There is a stained glass hobby shop in town and the lady said she could fix me up with whatever I need--glass wise


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