# lighting up a caboose



## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

hi guys I am new to this sight and to G scale trains, but loveing every bit of it. I am planing to build a 12'x 32' with two draws to gain access to the senter of my out side patio. hope to run three trains with in that space.
I just bout a 2-8-8-2 usra mallet steam locomotive, that will be pulling freight the out side track with a bachmann 4-6-0 rio grand southern passenger on the in side track. then run a elevated 2-6-0 in a loging seen in the mountains on the back end of the layout, that is if the money holds out. 
now back to me dilemma, wiring a caboose for running lights and interior lights, I would like to get power from the track if I can ?? could you advise me on how to do this and send me a wireing diagram so I can keep it in my file.
please be kind I am one of the dummys on wireing. give me a airbrush paint gun or wood, metal, and I am ok.

thanks guys love the site keep up the good work.
fred


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

First, are you going to use constant track power, like with a remote control system, or variable power? 

That's the first step in the design, what power do you have available. 

Greg


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello Fred 
I'm concerned about your latest the 2-8-8-2 fitting in side your 12x32 area. You will need to have some very wide curves to accomadate it which wil limit you in other areas since the 10' plus diameter curves will in themselves take up a lot of room. 
On to the caboose lighting. I use a couple of batteries and bulb through a switch mounted underneath. It lights up just fine. If you plan to use track power then when you stop the train the caboose lites will go off. Maybe you don't want that. 
Not to discourage your dreams of an amazing empire you mention "as long the money holding out" when you start getting too fancy the money can go pretty fast. 
Either way happy RRing 
Todd


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

thanks todd for your reply, I was told that a 8' radius would be the smallest that I could use for the 2-8-8-2 with a 24" straight in the middle that would live me 12" on either side. would this work??? the 4-6-0 no problem just leave room on each end for front end clearance. 
most of the layout is rock and gravel in which Az, has a lot of. the upper level will be mostly styrofoam small rocks the trees I will make my self, tunnel in and out for the lower tracks. and like I said I will make two drow bridges to get in and out, a tressel on the upper level and may be one on the lower. like you said it will be tight. I think I have all of the track that I will need more then enough rooling stock, and 5 engines and lowes has all the lumber. 
as for lighting I think you are right on useing batteries for lighting. 

am I thinking right on this ??? 
thanks fred


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

I was thinking of getting power of the track, but like todd said batteries might be the better way to go. no remote LOL dont have that kind of money. just variable power.


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

so in eney case I will need a wireing diagram on how to instoll the lighting


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Aristo 2-8-8-2 will run on 8' diameter curves, 10' would be better. 

get some ball bearing wheelsets that will pick up power from the track... try Train-Li for these. 

Buy some LED's, a full wave bridge and a 1,000 ohm resistor in series with the LED.... track to the full wave bridge, on the leads marked with ~ (there are 2 of these leads and either goes to either track) 

Then the plus to the anode of the LED, the other lead of the LED goes to the resistor (both leads on the resistor are the same) and the other lead of the resistor goes to the minus side of the full wave bridge. 

All parts can come from radio shack... 1 amp or less full wave bridge, 1,000 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, and the LEDs of your choosing... 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

12' by 32' will not allow 8 foot radius!!! that is 16 foot diameter!! Best you can do is 5 foot radius/10 foot diameter and remember these are usually track center to center measurements for pre bent track. 
If you get a rail bender and flex track, you could make 11 foot diameter or slightly larger.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Woody:

I'm assuming that you are talking about the Aristo Mallet. It is a great engine, I have one and really enjoy it. As Greg and Dan said go for 10' diameter. Your engine will last longer. 8' diameter is really tight for the motorblocks and while it will navigate those curves it will the much happier on larger curves. My layout has 10' diameter curves and there is a lot of overhang. I can only imagine how much overhand you would have on 8 footers. 

I would also recommend larger switches. I removed all my Aristo (wide radius 10'ers) switched and replaced them with the LGB 18000 series switches (about 15" diameter).

What brand of caboose are you going to use. Most cabooses on the market already come with interior and exterior lighting (track power). Some the Bachmann 1:20.3 come with battery and track power lighting. There is a switch on the bottom for your choice of power. The roof comes off and the batteries go in one of the benches.

The only caboose that I know that doesn't have any lighting is the Accucraft Westside logging one.

Chuck


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

wow I am over whelmed with all of the info, and befor I forget thank you for all the info. yes chuck, I do have the aristo mallet. I wonted the big-boy but at 1,200.00 to 2,000.00 this is the best I can do. that said does any body wount to trade 8' for 10' diameter track??? I think I should have joined this site befor I started with this porject. as for the caboose looks like I struck out again bachmann big haulers. Creg thanks for the info, but when it comes to electrical I am a complete dummy. I can build a engine or a house and wire it, but when it comes to radios and thing like that and caboose wireing I am way out of my element. if you can drow up a diagram I am sure I can follow it and get the job don LOL maybe??? Greg I will take what you gave me to raido shack and I will try to put it togather, if you can drow up a diagram and send it to me, I will give it my best shot. here is my e-mail address [email protected] I would like a diagram for battery and track pick up please. again thanks Greg, Todd, and Chuck. 

fred


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred:

I forgot that the Bachmann Big Hauler caboose doesn't have lights. I'm not sure, but I think that the Big Boys require much larger curves than you are planning. Whose BB are you thinking about; Accucraft, MTH, or USAt? If you mention the brand, someone will be able to advise you on the minimum radius (diameter) it needs.

Are you aware that you are mixing scales? The Mallet is 1:29 and the Bschmann caboose is 1:22.5/24. I say 1:22.5/24 because the some cars in the Big Hauler scale out at 1:24 and some maybe 1:22.5. Those are models of narrow gauge cars and your Mallet is a model of a Standard gauge locomotive. I have pulled 1:24 cars behind my mallet and it looks ok, but if you are planning to get "standard gauge" 1:29 freight cars they will be much larger than these "narrow gauge" cars.




























Chuck


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Dave Bodnar has an excellent tutorial on LED's and lighting. It's not hard--you need a soldering iron and a few basic components from Radio Shack, as Greg mentioned. Dave's page explains it very clearly. 

http://www.trainelectronics.com/

The tricky part for you will be getting power from the track. Buying a set of ball bearing wheels with power pickup is the easiest way. There are a few other ways, slightly more involved. I have lights in a lot of my rolling stock, all powered from the track, mostly by ball bearing wheels.

The alternative would be to light the car with batteries. You could got to radio shack, buy a holder for four AAs, some LEDs, a switch, and the appropriate resistor, which you can calculate here:

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

LOL there you go again throwing a wrench in the gears. I did see the difference in the size of the cars, but did not pay attention to the scale. I hade bought a 2-4-2 union pacifice, and 2-4-2 pennsylvania, and a #91114 2-4-2 balwin pennsylvania, and ran the small with only three cars at a time all three loco,s the idler gears went out in a short time. and bachmann dont have them to fix them. the larger cars I ran with the 4-6-0. like I said I am new at this and I can see that I need to learn a lot. I am 75 do you think I have enough time to learn what the heck I am doing. at list I am haveing fun doing it. I bout a lot of mix-mach track off e-bay as cheep as I could get it with new track will I have to start all over again.??? if so I might just give it up I dont have the money to start again. all together I have just over three years and 4 gran in it. but I sure would like to run my 2-8-8-2 at my age it would all most be better then sex as I can remember it. LOL I think. but not to get discouraged. ok back to work. I think I will just forget about the lighting and get the track going. the 8' radius track is new aristo craft in box. I would take used 10' if I can get it. 

fred


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred:

Dont' worry about your age, I just turned 72.

There are a lot of engines that run very nicely on 8' curves. All LGB engines were designed to go around 4' diameter curves. If you want a mallet that will love the 8' diameter curves look at an LGB Sumpter Valley (2-6-6-2), or an LGB mogul (2-6-0). LGB engines are almost bullet proof, they are very well made and will stand up to a lot of running.

Just remember that it is your railroad and if you like it run it. There are 5 common scales made by most commercial manufacturers: 1:20.3 (correct for 3' narrow gauge), 1:22.5 (correct for European 1 meter narrow gauge), 1:24 (incorredt for 3' narrow gauge), 1:29 ( incorrect for standard gauge), and 1:32 (correct for standard gauge). There are other scales out there that run on our 45mm gauge track, but they aren't as easily available.

What part of the country do you call home? There are garden railway clubs all over the country. Try to find a local one and visit some meetings and ask questions. Members are usually very happy to provide answers and guidance to beginners. We were all beginners at one time or another and most of us have made many mistakes along the way. It is a lot better now than in 1980 when I got started. There is a lot more help available now.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

1. ignore the power out part...
2 Put the led where the 2 parallel lines are, and put the plus side of the diode where you see the plus sign.
3. the zig zags are the 1,000 ohm resistor (otherwise known as 1k ohms)
4. conect the tract power to the "~" connections
5. below is the image of the full wave bridge radio shack part number 276-1146. you see the plus wire on one end, and the minus on the other, the 2 center wires are the "~" (does not matter which).... that part is the diamond shaped design in the picture above.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Is lighting up a caboose anything like lighting up a stogie?


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

thanks Greg for the diagram, now to put it togather. 

no torby most any body can light up a stogie, it is a no brainer, just put a match to the end. but when it comes to electricity there are some people that if thay read all of the books on electricity thay still would not understand a thing that thay just read. I am one of those people my world is a lot differnt then yours. I have dyslexia where I excel in one thing I lose in others. but it is better to ask then to go on with not knowing, dont you think?? 

and I do thank all of you guys for all your help. 
fred


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

ooops I for got I live in mesa Az, suburb of phoenix Az,


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred:

There is a large garden railroad club in the Valley of Fire, oops, I meant SUN. It is called ABTO for Arizona Big Train Operators. They have a layout out at the Adobe Mt. Railroad park in north Phoenix. That is where I took the pictures of my Mallet pulling the 1:24 beverage cars. If you go out on the weekend there is usually someone to talk to and ask question. If no one is outside go into the HO building, someone in there might be able to help you.

There is another garden railroad club in Tuscon, TGRS. They have layouts on tour in late February or early March. Well worth going down for a day or two. There are some excellent railroads down there as well as in the Phoenix area.

Chuck


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## John Vorhes (Feb 16, 2008)

I too am a dummy re wiring but mine is a different Caboose light situation. I scrapped track power and went to battery after years of bad weather and twisted track connections. I bought an interiopr lighting board and was told it will run off a pack of tripple A batteries. By adding a toggle underneath I can turn it on and off. I haven't started it yet but I'm now at a loss as to how to get the rear lanterns lighted. Its an Arista caboose. Where do I get the pealights or whatever I need AND can I put them into the interior light circuit? I have a few passenger cars to light as well. I'm just affraid I'll screw something up or that the results will be dim or short lived. John V


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Fred, when you get the LED, if it comes in a package, it will tell you which side is the plus and if it does not, just try hooking it in, and if it does not light, reverse it's connections. 

The word "anode" means "plus side" 

Hope that helps... Greg


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

chuck you had it right the first time, valley of fire. people that live here know what **** is like going to 113 to day. you bring the dogs and I will bring the fixens and we can have lunch. ( smiling ) 
and I have ben out to that park worth going to see. that HO lay-out is quite a lay-out again it is worth going to see. I have talk to some of the guys in ABTO and I am going to join this fall. 
when I was out to the park I did not see a G scale out side or inside for that matter just N,O, and HO?? is there another park on the north side??? I will have to look in to tuson TGRS might turn in to a nice week end trip. 
john you can get lights from aristo-craft #29500 $8.29 each or LGB #68332 $16.13 or at REA train accessories. dont be affraid to screw somthing up I do it all of the time LOL I am still here but bulbs like you say are short lived. hope this helps. 

fred


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred:

The "G" outside layout is just on the other side of the large covered patio on the north side of the HO building.

Chuck


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

john you can go to only trains.com and get your lights item #ac222 rear cupola cabooselighting with 2LED marker lights. fred


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

thanks chuch I will look it up next time I go out there. 

fred


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

john it will be $35.00


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

john if you send me a e-mail at [email protected] I think I can help you on the lights. 

fred


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

hi john look this up I think it will help you it did meTOMAR INDUSTRIES 
9520 Napier Avenue, 
Benton Harbor, MI 49022 
Phone: (877) 697-9731 
(269) 944-5129 
Fax: (269) 944-1901


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

good morning here go,s again. can aluminum track be used out side in Az,??? and witch track would be best??? brass, stainless, or aluminum ??? I have ben reading but cant find any thing. 

fred 

lighting problem fixed thanks a lot, and I am going for the 10' diameter it just makes sense to go biger. Greg I am going to use a two way switch so I can use battry or track with 12v lights. and it is working fin. thanks again.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred:

Again my suggestion is to talk to the locals. As I understand it, aluminum track if fine for battery or live steam. Some people have problems using it for track power. I have never used it myself. From reading various posts here some swear by it and others swear at it. I have always used brass, mainly because I bought all my track before SS came out. 

Chuck


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I would just use some LED's and have a battery pack velcroed to the bottom, pretty simple. Track power is iffy on lighting, flickers all the time.


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 13 Aug 2012 05:09 PM 
Is lighting up a caboose anything like lighting up a stogie? sometimes closer than you'd think...


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

if you light a car with track power, you also have to consider how the power is picked up which from the few examples i've seen involves pressing wipers against the wheels. although mostly hidden cosmetically, it does add a considerable amount of drag to what is often a very freely rolling car otherwise. earmarked for live steam use, i recently de-wipered a Accucraft UP CA-1 caboose (a gorgeous 1:32 scale rendition of the prototype) and the rolling performance increased dramatically.

cheers...gary


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

We normally use ball bearing wheels with electrical pickup, made by Aristo, Accucraft, LGB, or via Train-Li. 

The carbon brushes are a real drag, literally as you said, also they collect gunk and eventually fail to contact properly. 

Greg


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 27 Aug 2012 04:01 PM 
We normally use ball bearing wheels with electrical pickup, made by Aristo, Accucraft, LGB, or via Train-Li. 

The carbon brushes are a real drag, literally as you said, also they collect gunk and eventually fail to contact properly. 

Greg 
good to know that there is a better alternative. a single caboose would be one thing, but a totally different impact if used on a string of lighted passenger cars.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, there's also the method where the journal is a brass bushing in a plastic side frame and contacts the axle, but normally this is not real "constant". Quite a bit less expensive. Aristo uses this on their tenders and passenger cars. 

Greg


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Not meaning to cause trouble by merely answering your question without showing MY SUPERIOR knowledge, but if you want to get track power into a caboose easily and simply, you can do that. I recycled a pair of brass strips as wipers. I bolted them through the caboose body, so icould attach wires to the inside of the bolt. The wipers run on the tread of each wheel, and provide the same voltage that the track receives. 

Then, I used a circuit I got form Dave Bodnar to convert track power to a constant direction and maximum voltage for powering LEDs. My circuit uses an LED driver, so you don't need to calculate resistor value. This circuit will power more LEDs than you'll want in your caboose. 
The circuit has a capacitor in it so that dirty track won't interrupt the light. It won't store electricity long enough to stay lighted while stopped, but it works for dirty track. 

Whole thing should cost under $10 even if you use a printed circuit board like I do. And they work great. I'll attach the schematic, but I think it'll be stripped out by this board. If you'd like the schematic and pictures of the completed car, drop me an email at .


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I've had good luck using the brass bushing method. You just solder a wire to the bushing, and it picks up well, though I also put a capacitor in the circuit to avoid flicker. We run on DCC so constant voltage isn't an issue. Especially with longer cars, ball bearing wheels are great

I've never tried adding wipers. I had Bachmann cars that came with wipers, and the scraping sound drove me crazy. Do you find the wipers make noise? Because otherwise it'd be an easy way to get the job done.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Dick, go and post the picture of the schematic. Most likely nothnmg will happen to stop it, check it out.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

i love the link - learned a lot and want to try the sign lettering project-

but for those who simply dont wish to mess with locating and selecting the right stuff, and then assembling it (which i have in the past) 
or to have a simple 15-30 minute project re lighting 

and simply order and pay a modest price 
i have used evans designs-

they specialize in ready to use LEDs, including ones with switches and tiny or larger battery holders- 

i have used a bunch in older LGB stock to light dummy lights or engines without constant lighting-simply attach the LED with resisters and rectifier, and voila instant lights-warm or cold white-very bright-easy and reversible 

have also illuminated control boards in some engines with the tiny little sqaure emitters, as well as the headlights in my rail trucks and tail lights too 

and have used the really cool blue and ultra violet as station clock lighting-looks a lot like neon and adds a lot of pizzazz and interst at night as they are so vivid 

and a huge array of colors , and sizes of leds , as well as simply getting whatever you like, interms of configuration and operating voltages, etc 

i use these because they are already fitted with everythin you need-including directional or non-directional diodes, (or nothing at all-you can order raw LED,s and they have two colors as well red/ white which change color with polarity for trolley etc) 

i got a super bright clear red LED to replace the olders softer red flasher in my LGB white pass diesel reverse light on the top of the cab-now its really intense adn very bright-all i did was put the new led in the old led's receptacle


i use the ready to go unit -red LED with on/off and coin 3v battery in a couple of end cars to light lanterns-run a long time, easy to fit, replace, etc 
and very quick to install 

i mention this simply because of the quality and convenience i have had-as easy as using a stock light bulb most of the time


no affiliation, just a satisfied customer


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dick Friedman on 28 Aug 2012 11:03 PM 
Not meaning to cause trouble by merely answering your question without showing MY SUPERIOR knowledge, but if you want to get track power into a caboose easily and simply, you can do that. I recycled a pair of brass strips as wipers. I bolted them through the caboose body, so icould attach wires to the inside of the bolt. The wipers run on the tread of each wheel, and provide the same voltage that the track receives. 

Then, I used a circuit I got form Dave Bodnar to convert track power to a constant direction and maximum voltage for powering LEDs. My circuit uses an LED driver, so you don't need to calculate resistor value. This circuit will power more LEDs than you'll want in your caboose. 
The circuit has a capacitor in it so that dirty track won't interrupt the light. It won't store electricity long enough to stay lighted while stopped, but it works for dirty track. 

Whole thing should cost under $10 even if you use a printed circuit board like I do. And they work great. I'll attach the schematic, but I think it'll be stripped out by this board. If you'd like the schematic and pictures of the completed car, drop me an email at .









Here is Dick Friedman's cir. he was trying to show.


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

fyi, here are some more LED driver choices...

http://www.supertex.com/pdf/misc/led_driver_ics_SG.pdf

the CL25 tops out at 25ma which is probably fine for a single low power LED, but you might want to consider upping the current with a CL6/7 (100ma).

cheers...gary


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I've got about 16 LEDs powered from one of the CL25 drivers. I've also got a test strip of about a dozen LEDs powered from a single circuit.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Thanks, Noel. When all else fails I throw myself on the mercy of others.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For the 3000 microfarad capacitor, I would add a resistor in series to it to limit the inrush current especially for DCC users. 100 ohms would limit current to approx 1/4 amp which would not have any effect on leds as these are around 20 ma each, and if wired in series, only 20 ma total!!!


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

Posted By Dick Friedman on 29 Aug 2012 11:43 PM 
I've got about 16 LEDs powered from one of the CL25 drivers. I've also got a test strip of about a dozen LEDs powered from a single circuit. LEDs are similar to incandescent lights in the fact that just by looking at them, it's impossible to know the average current draw. i just posted the data sheets for those who like to run the numbers vs guessing at what the load might be.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've been using the CL2 for a long time... they are useful especially for people who use a variable voltage input, or don't want to use a LED calculator. 

On the resistor, that's a good idea in any "constant voltage" circuit... obviously one would not hurt anything on a DCC system, but if you had a bunch of cars with them, and you turned on DCC track power, it could be interpreted as a short, i.e. excessive current draw. 

(although most modern DCC system have "smarts" to tell inrush loading up capacitors from a real short circuit... because most decoders and especially sound decoders have good size caps on them and no inrush limiting) 

Greg


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

thanks Dick I have tried bouth wiper and carbon, I most say I like the wiper better then the carbon a lot less drag and very little flicker if any with a 4 wiper sistem. Stan is making me some Decales for my caboose and ask me if I would like Decales for my locomotive I have a Mallet 2-8-8-2 and don't know if it had marking on it?? I think the tender did?? I think it had the Chessie system but don't know. 
in the late 40,s to erly 50,s can you help?? 
fred


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I have one of the USA cabooses, would be an excellent one for behind the Aristo Mallet. I plan to convert it from track power to battery to eliminate the flickering and keep it lighted when power is off. It comes lighted from the factory with interior lighting and a rear facing red blinking light. I plan to replace the interior light with a couple of LED's to save on battery life, going to try feeding the circuit with a 9vt battery and see what the life span of the battery is like, I have a few rechargeable 9volts so I hope that works ok. I can also highly recommend LGB's Uintah 2-6-6-2T, tank style mallet, excellent runner, will handle R1 curves if need be and can be had with factory digital sound or without. I mix and match freight cars from time to time as I model standard gauge and my buddy is mostly narrow gauge logging with a LGB Mallet but a mix of car brands/scales. In the garden from 10 feet away the scale differance isnt to glaring other than than the 1:20.3 stuff from Bachmann and others. Welcome to the large scale hobby, its a bunch of fun, indoors or out! Mike


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## woody1492 (Aug 12, 2012)

thanks mike this is my 4th year in large scale and loving every bit of it, although it puts a hole in my pocket. I have been working on three differnt cabooses and three differnt types of lighting just to see which one I like the best. I like the track pic-up so I don't have to change batteries all the time but then again. one of the cabooses is a three window caboose with 4 wheel trucks with a 4 wiper pic-up to see how that will work. I am thinking about installing a 6 pole switch so I can change from track to battery don't know if it will work but I will give it a try. I grow up with the chessie system in the front yard, well across the street, now I am puting it in my back yard, that is the scheme I am going by. the big-boy is my all time favorite but with a high price tag it is just not to be. but when the mallat came up on e-bay for $500.00 I got it. I call it the poor mans Big-Boy. now to build a lay-out to run it. I have a 11' by 33' back yard and I want to run three trains on it on the out side rail the 2-8-8-2 freight and on the in side, a 4-6-0, and two 2-6-0 in a logging scene on a upper level in the back. I have just about every thing but track and back grouned. the one thing I have to work out is a drow bridge to get into the inner part of the lay-out. like you say it will be a lot of fun, and keep me out of the ball and changes hair.

fred


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