# Replacing Kadee trip Arms



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Like many people I have cut the trip arm off some of my Kadee couplers. I saw in one of my train magazine a way of retracting the trip magnet. Now if I can get this work I may want to put my Trip levers back on my Kadee couplers. 

Has any one done this successfully ? 


I think those trip lever/ arms are magnetized.

Am I going to have to replace all the couplers that I cut the arm off of?

JJ


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

I have replaced trip pins that I have cutoff with trip pins from other KaDee couplers. After removing the old "cutoff" pin, mount the new pin in a vise, align the coupler head with the knuckle by inserting the unsplined end of the old pin in the top of the coupler and visually position the assembled coupler over the new pin. Tap the coupler down while making sure you have the correct angular position on the pin.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe contact Kadee and see if they will sell you some replacement pins for cheap?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

John:

The wire is iron, but it is not magnetized. Any stiff iron wire of similar diameter should work.

Chuck 


Note added later: Stainless steel is not magnetic, so use something that will rust.


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

RE: Kadee Coupler Pin R & R

The following is excerpted from *my article* about installing Kadee centerset couplers into custom made metal coupler boxes for the Aristo E8 / E9 locos:

The coupler pins can be removed fairly easily and then bent to a different shape using strong needle nose Vice Grips and needle nose pliers. Until you get "the hang of it", It may take a little effort to get them into the correct shape - usually along with some installation R&R in the loco.
Shown below, a nail punch is used to first push the pin down within the coupler. 









Pliers can be used to remove the pin and then to re-install the pin after being re-bent into the desired shape for the given application.









With pliers well gripped on the pin, ensure coupler knuckle is aligned, then twist pin to proper angle and push firmly down.

When all is installed in the loco, the coupler should swing without interference along the pilot, including when nose to nose coupled to the pilot of another loco.
A properly bent pin is also not to interfere with the bottom of a coupled nose to nose E unit - as shown below.









With a pin re-shaped, it should be of the same overall vertical distance as the originally shaped pin so that when mounted in the coupler it will have the proper clearance over the Kadee uncoupling track magnet.









I hope this helps,
-Ted


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

THANK YOU TED









What a informative post









JJ


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Maybe you can find someone who doesn't use the "uncoupling arms" and trade with them.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Unfortunately, many people cut the arms off right away... it's almost a cult ha ha! Like "gutting" a loco for battery power, when all you have to do is bypass the electronics, not rip out the boards. 

Trading would make someone pull out their stock arms and press in cut off ones, think that would be a lot more work for the "donor" and you don't want to make a habit of changing out the arms, weakens the coupler. 

Anyway, with body mounted couplers, there should be little problem with catching the arm on track. I know many people cut them off because they have problems, but the stock clearance from the rail is 1/8"... 

Truck mounts are a different kettle of fish, any deflection up or down makes it easy to "stub it's toe" on a switch or magnet. Of course you could make a case that the truck mount situation already had a problem with excessive deflection. 

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

and when you least expect - running outdoors - you "trip over a rock" bet-twix the rails, and with the arm in place still,,, break the entire coupler OFF... 

the front of a loco.... 

so no pins for me please, 1/8" or not... 


Dirk! no fun...


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09 May 2012 11:10 AM 



Trading would make someone pull out their stock arms and press in cut off ones, think that would be a lot more work for the "donor" and you don't want to make a habit of changing out the arms, weakens the coupler. 

Greg 



Not if they were still in the bag, unused. And not all of us, even though they are truck mounted, cut off the arms. All of mine are truck-mounted and still in place.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Todd, I did say "many" people, not all people. 

Dirk, I run a sweeper car one lap before running trains, knocks the big rocks away! On of my best gadgets. 

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I cut them off because they were trouble on somebody's layout. 

After review by out Rolling Stock Maintenance crew it was discovered that they were mounted wrong.

No all the Rolling stock has to be checked for proper height.

So I may now want to replace them 

JJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ahh, be sure to get the REAL Kadee gauge, I saw Marty's .... it changes by season and I think it's being attacked by termites! 

(for those of you who have not seen Marty's, it's a block of wood) 

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Greg, great idea and practical also, But,... I was "visiting another layout".... the best of times - eh! Say - La Vi' 

Dirk


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Often repeated? "Standards, who needs stinking standards..."


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have the official Kadee coupler height gauge . That is what the Rolling stock Maintenance crew is using 

JJ


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