# Ozark Climax Build Log



## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Okay folks, here we go on my first kit built loco. Returned from The Big Train Show with a Climax kit, it somehow survived TSA examination and repacking! 












Frame is built and "gears" installed. Interestingly the measurements in the instructions do not match the measurements on the diagram you see in the photo. 











Deck planing installed, this will all be stained with "ebony" wood stain, gives a nice creosote look. 











Side trip working on the electronic before everything is nailed down.. two AAA 7.2 battery packs fit very nicely in the water tank.












Bent the handrail one time too many, so this will be soldered and ground down to match. 











Charging jack and on/off "just" fit in the tender hatch, had to trim the switch lever to be able to close the hatch. 











Backhead is started, still some painting and detail to add. 











And and idea of what will come.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Keep the pix coming!! I'm VERY interested in this model, even though there is now nobody over here in UK dealing with Ozark. I can at least pick one up on my next trip over, if I'm pursuaded enuff by your model!









BTW - my public thanks to my old pal, Richard Smith of POCRR for sending me a pack of Ozark NBW - no longer available over here..

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick,

Great start. I am looking forward to the pictures of this build. Nice talking to you at the BTS.

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Thats looking good. Climax and Dunkirks have to be my faverite. I really like the scratch built ones made from wood like yours. Some day I will have to give it a try. When I get better..


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Tac and anyone else here in UK who is interested, Andrew at Garden Railway Centres in Cheltenham had Ozark stuff on my last visit a few weeks ago, bought enough NBWs to keep me going for a while.
Bunny


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## David Buckingham (Jan 2, 2008)

Tac Spoke to Andrew of Cheltenham Garden Railways today 

He has a good stock and more on the way. 

Cant stock all as a vast range. 

My Climax posted 3rd june still not arrived in the UK 

Dave


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## Crisolite (Jan 9, 2008)

I'll be watching your progress with interest as my kit just arrived. What are you using for RC, I assume that is what the batteries are for.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

I found that an Airwire card, old style, not the new, and a P5 will fit with room to spare in the boiler. I will probably put some lead in the boiler as well to aid traction on the front truck. Mounted a 1" Pheonix speaker under the deck, and I am thinking of putting the program jack in the smoke stack under some screening.. Will see when we get there. Water tank is nicely weighted with those batteries in there.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Update with more photos 


Because I wanted to easily access the electronics in the boiler, I cut a plastic plug that tightly fits the smokebox and glued the smokebox cover to it. I then file down one edge to clear the headlight wiring.




















Water tank was attached with four screws, again, to be able to access the batteries etc. Do not do what I did and put one of the screws where the motor mount attaches.....


















Phoenix 1" speaker fits nicely between the beams 













As the speaker was under the firebox, I drilled a wire access into the firebox block. I ended up running the battery feed, speaker wire and rear truck power through these holes and into the back of the boiler.










Excuse the fuzz pic, Airwire and P5 JUST fit into the boiler Phew! And I mean just, the back of the smokebox door plug is next to the Airwire card. Program jack is tucked right into the front











As she sits today, First test run, motors work, sound works, batteries charge without letting out magic smoke.....


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

It is nice to have a block of time to work on a project, and a wife that calls you in to dinner!

All of the plumbing and details bits added. Marks on the side are where I trimmed the deck boards for the roof posts, need to be touched up. Kit was missing stake pockets, do not know if it was Ozark or the gentle handling by TSA where they searched my luggage, but Ozark sent out replacements the next day. Good people to deal with. 





































View of the Watts Marine Engine and plumbing. 











With the roof supports and framing. Decision point here, I look at the roof over the steam dome and think, that would be very unpleasant everytime the whistle blew or the pressure valve popped, lots of steam under the roof. So I am thinking of cutting the roof back to the third from the rear rib. Thoughts anyone?


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Neato! I'm liking the results!


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi, 

It will look balanced with the roof the same as designed, what about adding a tube to take the steam up through the roof, and mount the whistle on the roof?


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, 

I vote with cutting back the roof as you describe. I think it'll look great! 

Best, 
TJ


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

What's WRONG with this picture? 









No fault in the workmanship, but in the design. It SHOULD look like this.... 









2 foot long steamchests? no moving parts? no valve gear at all? Reveser stuck out where the engineer would need arms like a gorilla to use? Yes, I'm being picky, but at the asking price of over #300, is it really 'close enough"?


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a picture of a prototype.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

hey, thanks Steve for the photo, confirms what I thought about the whistle and pressure relief under the roof.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, and others... Many of you already know about it, but for those who don't -- there is a Climax catalog posted online. 
http://www.climaxlocomotives.com/catalog/ 

There is also a ton of info and pix at gearedsteam.com 
http://www.gearedsteam.com/climax/climax.htm


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## RonTeten (Feb 15, 2008)

Great job!!!!!! Keep the pic's coming.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, 

That's looking great! You're going to have to bring it over to test on the POC. 

BTW How about just putting a working hatch over the whistle & steam dome area. A typical homemade solution for a self-sufficient logging road. Ozark has a really nice roof hatch.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Okay, let's celebrate the 4th with the builder's photo shoot...Yes we are finished, except for some junk, tools, rooster bar and other items to clutter up the loco. I decided the pressure relief and the whistle had to be above the roof, thanks for the photo links, and fitted pipes to the the steam dome, and put the fittings on the roof.


























Dug into my decal supply (thanks Stan) and numbered and logo'd 



Some firewood and workers, and a salvaged bell































I have made my initial test run and I do need to break in the motor blocks, but it does cruise along quite nicely


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Nick,

Nice work. That's a good looking Climax

Chuckger


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## David Buckingham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi 

Mine arrived in the workshop after a 29 day trip from OZARK had to pay 41pounds or 66 dollars duty. 

Dave


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## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

Excelent. Thats a great looking model. 

Scott


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## Ted_Roy (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful work can't wait to see it out and working! 

Ted.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick.... That is beeeeee-you--------tee-----ful.... What a great job.


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

It was the decals that made it









Thanks Stan


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Dave, when you get to the gaps in the instructions, email me.... I can save you a lot of trial and error... Mine had no motor mounting instructions which I figured out... 
Nick


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Ted_Roy
I am out of town for a few days and hope to take a video when I get back, and will you tube it. Thanks for the comments.


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

Nick 

I am presently building this kit also and agree that the instructions have some vagueness and discrepancies regarding dimensions. However, I am pushing through it. Tell me... how did you attach the trucks as there is no mention of this in the instructions and did you do this prior to assembling everything on top of the deck? 

cheers


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By fingers on 09 Jul 2009 07:16 PM 
Nick 

I am presently building this kit also and agree that the instructions have some vagueness and discrepancies regarding dimensions. However, I am pushing through it. Tell me... how did you attach the trucks as there is no mention of this in the instructions and did you do this prior to assembling everything on top of the deck? 

cheers  

There should be two plywood crosspieces that have holes in the center. The center stud on the motor block goes through the hole, and is held in place by the stamped metal press on piece. A socket is a great way to press the clip down with. Set the motor blocks on the underside of the frame and make sure you have clear swing room for the blocks between the frame members. Attach the crosspieces with the screws (after routing the wires). I did this before mounting the topside as I needed to run the wires to the boiler and tank.


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

Thanks Nick. I have 2 more questions. 

1. How are the powered drivers wired up? I am using track power. There are 4 wires on each, red, green, black and yellow. I placed the powered units one at a time on the track, applied power and neither budged so I am figuring they need to be wired together. I tried the obvious, red to red, black to black etc. However, even after doing that they did not move when power was applied. 

2. How do you assemble the white metal side frame pieces to the powered drivers? Again, there are no instructions or picture examples of this. 

Thanks so much


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By fingers on 12 Jul 2009 09:07 AM 
Thanks Nick. I have 2 more questions. 

1. How are the powered drivers wired up? I am using track power. There are 4 wires on each, red, green, black and yellow. I placed the powered units one at a time on the track, applied power and neither budged so I am figuring they need to be wired together. I tried the obvious, red to red, black to black etc. However, even after doing that they did not move when power was applied. 

2. How do you assemble the white metal side frame pieces to the powered drivers? Again, there are no instructions or picture examples of this. 

Thanks so much 





Fingers, 
1. 
The wires are Black and Red motor feed, Green and yellow track supply. I use battery so I opened the blocks and removed the Green and yellow wires, track pick ups etc. 
So you need to connect the red and black to the green and yellow to get track power from track to motor. I would put a block on a section of track or rollers, twist the wires together in a temporary connection and check they work before installing. You will need to tap off the track supply green and yellow for power to the headlight, sound, etc that you are installing. Personally, I would connect the track/motor feed wires nside the motor block and just have the tapped in pair of track supply going up and into the boiler etc from each truck. But do what you feel comfortable with. As Murphy rules, check your wiring after each step before you mount it all on the frame...


2. 
Find the four side frames and four L shaped brackets. There should be a hole in one side of the bracket, drill them out to take the bolt of the four nuts/bolts. Sand or file down the outside face ove the other leg of the bracket so it is smooth, flat and square. Remove the excess and flash from the side frames. Wash all to remove mold release. In the middle of each side casting there is a set of molded springs, the reverse of this is a flat face where you mount the L bracket, I used 60 minute epoxy given the stress possible on this joint. 

The bracket hole section fits over the lug on the side of the motor block and is secured with the nut and bolt. 

Clean the side castings and four L shaped brackets real well, to get rid of any mold release that may remain from casting. I used a 60 minute epoxy so I would have time to set the bracket exactly where it needed to be so the axles on the block looked to line up with the journal boxes. 

Set aside and leave plenty of time to cure before painting. 

And check you have the stake pocket castings for later, I do not know if they were not included or if TSA lost mine for me, but Ozark replaced without question. In the picture you can see where I had to move a motor mount screw to clear the screws I used to secure the tank, one step I did not check ahead for fit! I also shimmed the blocks down 1/16" to give me better clearance on the end frame bracing.


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

Once again thanks Nick! 

If I wire the Red to Yello and the Green to Black and place the motor unit on the track it runs. So I am guessing that I should connect both motor units together in the same fashion? Red from one to Yellow on the other, Green from one to Black on the other? Does this sound right?


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Fingers, you got that right..... Now, I made a mistake about how I would wire it. Going to battery you quickly forget the niceties of track power. In order to have as many track pick-ups as possible to eliminate jerking, the two motor blocks should be connected. So, Green and Yellow from each black should connect, giving you 4 pick ups per track, then feed to both motor blocks, so both stay powered even if one is not picking up power from the track.


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

I am missing something here! If I take just one truck and wire the green to black and the red to yellow an apply track power the unit will run. I was thinking then that I needed to wire the red from the front unit to the yellow of the rear unit. The red from the rear unit to the yellow of the front unit. The black from the front to the green on the back and black from the back to green on the front. However, when I touch power to the front wheels (either set) the read unit will run but the front does not. If I apply power to either set of rear wheels the front unit will run but the rear won't. 

What am I missing?


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

ah... I finally got it. The reds and yellows from each unit need to be together and the greens and blacks together. Now it works


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## MikeK (Jan 3, 2008)

I purchased one of the Climax kits from Ozark at the Big Train Show in Ontario. Although I have not yet started the model, I did look over the contents and the instructions and wondered about the lack of instructions for the power trucks. At the NGRC in Denver, I spoke to the Ozark people and found out that section two of the instructions on the power trucks was inadvertently omitted from the kit. I emailed Ozark upon my return from Denver, as they directed me, for a pdf copy of the missing instructions. I'll bet they'd be happy to email a set of those instructions to anyone else building this kit who is missing the power truck instructions.


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## fingers (Jan 17, 2008)

Hi Nick

What is this? I don't see this mentioned in the instructions other than something about not drilling the hole


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

It sits where the sight glass goes and is my poor substitute for managing to destroy the casting while cleaning of flash...I glad you mentioned this, I need to paint it and had not gotten to it.


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## ozmin (Feb 16, 2008)

Dave From Ozarak Miniatures _ We need any one in Australia to write to me. At the two shows this year we had several people from Australia say they could not access our site. Yet others can. Our hosting company says they don't understand so we need to do a trace between each customer and our site. 

I am sorry that we missed section 2 of the instructions I think all who have missed thiers have them If not contact us and we can e-mail them out.This will answer all questions on wiring


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## Paradise (Jan 9, 2008)

Fixed 

The site is reachable from Melbourne Australia now. 
I have been trying to order a long weight for some time now ! 

Andrew


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## Gary Woolard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Mike, did you ever get your PDF? I've emailed Ozark several times in the last month, both messaging Dave (Ozmin) through MLS here; and leaving a message on their web comment form. No response. This doesn't seem like Dave, and I was wondering...


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Very cool!









I gotta get me one someday.

-Brian


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I like it. Looking great.


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## MikeK (Jan 3, 2008)

Gary,

I did receive the missing section of the instructions from Dave by email I don't have it available to me this afternoon, but I could provide a pdf of them to you tomorrow.....


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