# Landscape lighting idea



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I'm doing some preliminary planning on a simple 12v lighting scheme for the paths around the layout, starting with a bunch of "Olde Brooklyn Lanterns" which Bed Bath & Beyond is selling for $5 each. 

Each lantern has 12 LED's that run on 3v (2 D cells). If (and I don't know yet) each LED draws 20mA, and if I have 10 of these, I get 2.4 amps (12*.02*10) and 7.2 watts (2.4*3) for the system. Does that sound about right? 

FWIW, these will rust soon, and that's fine with me. However, I figure I'll have to do some mod's to the fixtures:

Make a sturdy post & bracket (to prevent swinging in the wind)
Seal off the installed dimmer. 
Seal all joints / holes / etc.
Install a resistor to allow 12v supply.
Install a jack for easier maintenance.
Add an extra paint layer (rusty / black)

Comments & jokes welcome, as always...

Here's the BBB link,
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/olde-brooklyn-lantern/1040818078?creative=63574556438

Just ordered some samples. If all else fails, they'll be good for power outages and wedding presents.

===>Cliffy


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I use the solar ones, no wiring for critters to eat. Works around here.
1. Open box
2. pick a spot.
3. Shove it in the ground.
4. Be done
John


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I think your math is right, but why not look at lighting intended for outdoor application?


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks guys. I know I'm crazy, but here's the logic. I'm not happy with the solar ones because mine haven't lasted well. And, the area involved doesn't have great sun exposure. Also, there would be 2 circuits, one for lights up on the deck, and the second down on the paths, and I'd like to be able to switch them off, or dim them. Final reason, I'm wanting the rusted kerosene lantern look. I'd gotten an $8 one from walmart, intending to retrofit it. But this one (though probably even more cheaply made) has the LED already installed. 

Thanks for checking my math, BRO.

Speaking of dimmers, I was thinking about getting 2 power supplies such as this, which apparently can take a triac dimmer on the input.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081F1P0K/

Here's a remote-op low voltage dimmer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B5V54M

Also looking into X10.


----------



## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff I think you are on to a good idea. I have a couple of old lanterns that I made into solar. they never gave off much light but I like how they rusted and looked . Keep us up to date with your progress. Pete


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Pete, will do.


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I put in some solar garden lights last spring. I selected a middle price-point option at Lowes. Initially they worked well, but have lost light output. In the shorter days now, and especially on a cloudy day, they don't seem to be charging enough. I have them in an area which gets good sun, too.

Based on my experience, I think a wired circuit is a good idea.

I don't know enough about LED's to know if lowering the voltage will dim them. I might just wire a portion on one circuit and the balance on a second circuit. It only gives two levels of illumination, but is simpler and avoids another component to potentially fail.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

These lanterns I mentioned have a built-in dimmer, which might be instructive during the dissection process once I get the samples in. Other than that, I'll either remove the dimmer and plug the hole, or just seal the knob to the case with rtv. 

A main issue with the solar units is the battery life. It's charging and discharging every day. And, like all rechargeable batteries, it degenerates with repeated cycles. Some solar lights have replaceable batteries, and they recommend swapping them once a year. But that might add up to a lot of (not-so-cheap) batteries. Since I'll only want this system on when needed, I'd rather convert the battery money into sprinkler wire money, and gain some control and better illumination. 

Whether the "Olde Brooklyn" electronics & housings are any good remains to be seen, but at $5 at BBB (normally $12 and up) I couldn't resist.


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I'll give ya my vote buddy!!

For ease of use and cheap install ...yes...I have bought a few of the $1.00 cheapos at WM..

They have lasted for years in the desert..do not run so well in shorter days of winter....some don't turn on now..

My choices for my property are not solar tho..

I want them "off" .... when I want them off. ... period..

You have lots of tree shade! Yep...
Your concept of two systems is smart and practical. Use a power supply...with dimmer ... sure!!
Your layout is not so large for this to be a great addition and highlight for it!

Make what you want to be happy....it's your home n layout!! Don't limit your creativity to just the layout n mountains....

Share with us .... you always do!!
Thanks oh buddy!!

Then come do mine!!..I got alot a pipe in place now...a few idears to go around!!


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hey Dirk, thanks!

Yeah, so far, the wire is the larger expense, as long as the fixtures work out. Not very expensive though; like you say, my layout is small.

You, on the other hand, might have truckloads of #10 wire in your future  . However, you also have a handy (and conductive) rail weaving all over the place, which -- if my recollection is right, you're going battery -- isn't serving any electrical purpose (yet), so....


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Cliff, I think you will find these LEDs are being run below the typical 20 ma.. get some and measure the current, many of the newer ones will be plenty bright at 10 ma.

Regards, Greg


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Good to hear Greg, thanks. Sure makes sense, because 12 x 20ma seems a bit much for only 2 d-cell batteries. I'll measure, and post the findings.

BTW, I'm gravitating toward using cheap 3.3v or 5v voltage regulators (with a resistor), coming off a 12v feeder. That way, at least I think, voltage drop shouldn't affect the system. So a 100' dead-end run of 16-2 landscape wire might deliver 8-10v at the end, but it shouldn't matter with the vr's. Does that sound right Greg? Because if it works, that would save $$ in wire which I'd otherwise spend to close the two wiring loops.

[edit] I'll also have to measure the current upstream of the regulator, because the 12v draw will determine the power supply size. I always trip up somewhere around this point in my calculations... I mean, I get W=IV, but for a system where one is reducing V (say, from 12 to 3), I get confused as to what remains the same. I believe it's Vsec * Isec = Vpri * Ipri; so, a lantern drawing .12A @ 3v would be pulling .03A @ 12v. Is that correct? If so, a much cheaper power supply than the ones I was looking at would suffice. For example, this PS puts out 30W at 12vdc:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D6969UW

So at 3v, that seems to me like 120w or 10a capacity. Which seems like too much...? Also, I'm sure there's inefficiency at the regulator, hence the heat sink... like I said, this is where I always trip up, and I'll have to measure the current upstream of the regulator.

[nuther edit] Nix the above PS, it's not dimmable.


----------



## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I tried the solar ones, to much shade in my garden. I use lights from the old Toro line up made years ago. I power everything in the back yard other than the main path lights which are 120 volt lights. I run the low voltage stuff with a single 500wt transformer. I also power all my LGB street lights and interior lights off this supply. So, even when I am not running the trains, the village is all lighted up for all to enjoy. The solar ones dont light up the ground that well, are quickly burried in the snow during the winter as they create no heat to melt themselves clear of the snow. I high voltage lights keep warm and free of the winter snow, when they are out its very very dark around our house. So the added light helps with security. But, that being said, whatever works best for your location, thats all the matters! Mikie


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

You can also put some lights in series to balance the voltage of the power supply.

For instance, four of the three volt units wired in series become one "group" working on 12 volts. This saves the extra cost and wasted energy of resistors or voltage regulators.

Ordinarily it is a bad idea to wire lights in series, because one bad bulb shuts off the entire circuit, but with the long lifespan of LED's, may not be as big a concern.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for sharing your experience Mike. Good point about security lighting being more reliable. For building lights, I'm expecting to make a third 12v circuit, but still use led's for the devices, just to save on the juice and transformers. No snow-melting benefit I'm afraid, you'll have the advantage there!

Interesting idea Red, I generally forget about that trick. I'm not sure I trust the guts of these particular lanterns though, but I'll keep your thought in mind as I dig into it more.


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Unless I'm lost...anything wrong with running your supply line to the layout [email protected] 120V., then your power supply on site local to the light feed...
Seems to be no reason for running 12v. a long ways..


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

You're not lost Dirk, and I do have 120vac near the center of where the 2 strings are. It's just that they are long. Picture a T, with the left and right leg 100' each, the middle leg 30'. Main thing is to use 12v on the ground, because I don't want to mess with conduit, j-boxes, local transformers, and increased risk. With the low current and 12v, 16 gauge seems to have plenty of capacity. 

Your situation is totally different though... I can sure see that you'd want to do that.


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Well...for give my perspective....but a 100 ft. just is not that long..

Figure whats needed for my new Jet pump....7.0 amps @ 100 ft...
This past weeks full time project...replumb...tank diving..lots a digging..
A coffin below grade with insulation...back fill..
Pooped....I think in terms of many hundreds of feet for most anything I need to tackle!!
Have fun....get going...the days are indeed shorter..n ... darker...
..turn on those lites buddy!! LOL!!


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

SD90WLMT said:


> Well...for give my perspective....but a 100 ft. just is not that long..


I'm agreeing with you, Brutha Dirk! But when we're talking about voltage drop, 100' becomes relevant, like in the cost difference between #16 and #12 wire, or whether to "close the loop" on the feed, or (as one might be advised to do with conventional incandescent path lighting) send out a feeder for every fixture or two. 

With low voltage / low current fixtures though, and especially if you put a 50-cent regulator in each one, voltage drop seems to become almost a non-issue.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's the three basic mounting configurations I'm examining. I like the look of wrought iron and hanging the lanterns, but to prevent swinging in the wind and to stay at reasonable costs, I'm heading toward a simple 2x8 shelf with some sort of hold-downs. Left to right: Post-only (for path lighting); railing level (for some gentle deck illumination); and on-the-post (for where one walks under a deck or bridge). 










Still sort of on the fence with these "Olde Brooklyn" lanterns. But one negative is that for a lamp without a socket, you can't replace the bulb (obviously), and you can't put in a bulb having your choice of lumens, color, and whether or not it flickers like a candle. So if these OB's don't really seem like the cat's meow, I'll probably just switch back to the $8 Walmart kerosene lanterns and hack them for candelabra bulb bases. And use the OB's I ordered for wedding gifts or something.

Just thinking out loud again, thanks for viewing.
CJ


----------



## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Ciffy I like the idea of the lantern on a pole. I have one of those gathering dust in my garage. I will fit a 12 volt DC socket into it, where the wick is now. Then I have some LED,s lamps ( bulbs) left over from my Camping trailer. I'll wire it into my Malibu system. 
Well done sir, MC&HNY to you.


----------



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

That Malibu outdoor wire holds up well.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Rod, thanks, and I'd love to see your results! OK, I'll bite, what does MC&... oh, just got it, same to you sir!

And hi Jerry, thanks for the confirmation. I've been using a similar product to Malibu's wire, carried by my local Lowes. Specifically, #10-2 Southwire brand, for my rail power bus. It's really nice to be able to bury the stuff and not worry about conduit.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Speaking of low-V cable connections, anyone used these grease-filled direct-burial wire nuts?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DECHN0

For my rail power bus, where the current is high and things need to be rock-solid, I went with Greg E's advice and took the soldered & 3M-potted route. But for landscape lights, I'm thinking these seem ok.

Here's another method I'm considering for in-air connections (i.e., low-V wire joints on/under the deck structure). Given that the feeder is straight-through, the taps off it might only require stripping the insulation 1/4", winding & soldering the branch wire onto the exposed feeder wire, and wrapping with self-fusing 3M tape:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CGVEXS


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I received my samples of the beast, and here's some initial findings.










The lantern is about 10" tall. The black knob is the dimmer; the "glass" is plastic. It comes as no surprise that the housing is cheaply made, of very thin stamped metal. 

After some messing about, and getting things unstuck, I found that the upper tube is sprung, and is the retainer for the plastic globe. When lifted up, it releases the globe just like a normal kerosene lamp. Here is the circuit board, and the inner plastic diffuser tube surrounding it.










Under the base is the battery holder, shown here with its cover removed. The wires are those I jammed in for testing.










Two screws free the battery holder which, when pried loose, reveals the simple circuit. The positive (going through the pot) and negative go up to the led circuit board. 










I hooked up DC from a throttle pack, and found that the lantern dimmed ok from 1 to 3 v. 1v was the cutoff. The light it gives off won't change anyone's life; maybe 2-4 candlepower? Hard to judge without a meter. Here's a pic:










A few comments about making this thing weather-proof. 

The metal seams are better than I expected. But, they'll need RTV'ing, especially in certain spots where tab A went into tab B, resulting in holes. 

A bigger issue is all the openings in and around the top, which would let moisture right into the circuit area. So, that entire upper can would need sealing, not sure how. Alternately, I'd rather cut a small rubber disk and set it on top of and clamped to the globe. Would need drain holes in the clamping cylinder for that to work. 

Water will get into the housing. The device isn't designed to be waterproof at all. With judicious RTV'ing, one will reduce the inbound flow for a while. With the battery holder removed, and perhaps a few extra drain holes drilled, the water should get back out for a while. 

For a permanent fixture, the housing really needs to preclude water. I'll give it a shot. Later. No guarantees though.

My further consideration is that my dear wife doesn't like how cheap this looks... and I can't exactly disagree with her...

So, that's the latest. Haven't given up yet though.

===>Cliffy


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes Cliff, I use the silicon filled wire nuts.

I also used some epoxy "bags" for sealing wires which are really great, by scotchlock, you have a little bag, you squeeze it, it mixes the epoxy, you shove the wires into it, completely waterproof and permanent.

I use the wire nuts on the pigtails for the lights themselves.

Greg


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Greg, yes, those "bags" you recommended are what I used for the DCC feeders, thanks for that tip. Good to hear about the wire nut confirmation.


----------



## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good so far. My lamp will be a bit more difficult to change to LED's Cliffy. It is an actual coal gas lamp  (Unused) complete with wick.
However, although it is painted green, it looks like it came from the same stampings as yours.
May get a start sometime later today.
BTW my LED bulb (Lamp) is 12 volt.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

BTW, I measured the current drawn by the OB, and it was .29A at 3V. 

Here's the lantern I was going to use. It's still the fall-back, though sealing will be just as challenging. 










Construction is very similar, just slightly thicker metal. Real glass globe, and generally better made. This came from Walmart a few years ago, for $8. The wick assembly has been unscrewed. 

I got a sample socket from Satco, and low and behold, it snapped right in without modification.










Here's the socket, I think it's about $2.50. 
http://www.satco.com/80-1093.html

Here's where the big bucks come in: 12v LED bulb, candelabra base,
http://www.lampsplus.com/products/s_led-12-volt-candelabra/?s=1

Bayonet base 12v led bulbs are common, and around $5 (or less). So if I use these other (real) lanterns, that's probably where I'd head.


----------



## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Hey Cliff-

Interesting thread, got the brain ticking to back issues of Garden Railways Mag and I remembered this vendor:

http://somethindifferent.com/

Now of course the prices are much more then homebru tin lanterns, but perhaps food for thought somewheres on their web site.

Have a good day

Jerry


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Jer, yes, I've seen that company a few years ago, really neat stuff. Seems pretty high quality. Interesting that they're not sealing off the top vent holes at all.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

After talking things over with my wife, we've decided to get a sample of both lantern versions working, take them outside at night (probably in the spring), and decide then which version and how many. 

So, I've got a bayonet socket & 12v LED bulb on order for the red (real) lantern and a couple electronics bits for the other one. 

In the mean time, here's a little side line. I saw these supposedly waterproof 12v floods for about $10, with good reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XZAPV8

I would be using a few of these under my deck for utility lighting, and maybe as general floods elsewhere. 

Holding it in my hand, it looks like it's sealed well, but a real assessment will require further work later. Since some of the reviewers complained about longevity, spares would be needed. I had to re-screw the front bezel, because someone had cross-threaded one screw and it wasn't seating correctly. 

I hooked it up to a throttle pack, and found that it draws .31A at 12V. It is dimmable. As for brilliance, I don't have a meter, but here's some pics at 6, 9 and 12V.




























The pics aren't hugely meaningful, other than to say that it's pretty bright at 12V and .31A. They claim 950-1050 lumens, and I've read that a 75 watt bulb is similar to 1,100 lumens. I don't agree in this case, because this thing puts out something more like a 40-watt. Comparing it with a 60-watt flood, the 60 is clearly brighter, and I'll stick with the 40-watt comparison.

CJ


----------



## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Cliff
Thanks for the evaluations. Perhaps going beyond your goals, I realize I would like some low to moderate level lighting for my outdoor layout so guests (and me) can see the layout at night. Presently use motion detector spots, which are too bright, and keep shutting off! Do you think your latest find will provide general spot illumination if I used several around the layout? And I still need to light all those buildings..
Jerry


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Naptowneng said:


> Hey Cliff-
> 
> Interesting thread, got the brain ticking to back issues of Garden Railways Mag and I remembered this vendor:
> 
> ...


Jerry,

Something Different was always at the local train shows here in So. Cal. About two or three years ago, I purchased a wide brim lantern from him to mount outside near my layout. I actually went to his house and picked it up. Nice guy. But now that you mentioned it, I tried your link and it doesn't work. Used my bookmark for him and it still won't work. Maybe they are gone. Hope not.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Jer, thanks for following this. Yes, I'd think so. If you have an old DC 2A throttle, you can use it to power and dim 6 of these lights. But for your distances, you might want to go with a 20W unit, they're about $25-ish. If you want some real fun, you get get them with a remote, to not only dim but change the color.

FWIW, I'm trying to resolve all my lighting & misc. needs to 12v, use a similar (and wirelessly dimmable) power supply approach for each system (path, deck, flood and model building lights), and rack them all in a waterproof cabinet.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Gary, when I clicked on the link, Google took me to somethindifferent.com (no http://). Also, www.somethindifferent.com worked. Seems like he's still in business.


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I'd like to share my thoughts on layout lighting and lighting effects...
While these concepts will be used on my layout...I have not arrived at the station yet...
They are based on visiting other layouts...seeing what "has been done before", and my thoughts on nite lighting.

To me...just like a good security system....lighting should be effective..but not over powering...and not blinding to viewers...in the end it is better... this is a case of less is more.. better!!

What I have seen are layout area lighting. ... that shines in your faces in certain places on a layout. Our eyes adapt to low light levels at nite.. being plastered with a bright lite here and there actually makes it harder to see...
To me ... lighting should be carefully thought out..well placed...trial and errors setups..such that one can walk about a layout...the lighting - highlighting the great aspects of the layout...such that viewers can see well .. and not get blinded from exposure..

This is not fast n easy....possible ...yes!!

Use great locations...view blocks to protect eyes..extra rock pile..lites hidden...yet shinning on that tunnel..trestle .. or mountain...to show off all the hard work...

This is esp critical for nite time train operators..trying to follow a train from scene to scene...

Have fun....and good luck...build an awesome lighting system !!

Dirk


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

CliffyJ said:


> Gary, when I clicked on the link, Google took me to somethindifferent.com (no http://). Also, www.somethindifferent.com worked. Seems like he's still in business.


Thanks for your link Cliffy. It worked this time for me. Glad to see he is still in business!  I bought the wide brim lantern in the upper right hand corner of his home page. Very nicely weathered lantern. Looks great at night.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for your thoughts Dirk, and I'm in agreement with you. For the layout, I think less is more. Haven't got there yet, at all. But I'm thinking that building lights, train lights, and very low general lighting (representing some moonlight?) will be best.

You remind me that I should have explained my objectives with these lights I've been messing with, short and long term. So here goes.

Path Lamps: just to point out where the path is. Those "pagoda" lights make nice down-lighting, and I'll have to find a way to visor my lanterns to direct the light downward as well. Maybe the "wide brim" of Gary's lantern is a good method; or, a visor inside the globe. Anyway, there's some steep drop-offs to the side of the path, so this system has a safety purpose as well.

Deck Lanterns: general and low illumination at that upper deck level, without spoiling the mood (as the high-up house-mounted floods do). Just enough to see where you're going, but not bright enough to wash the layout.

Utility Floods: Under the deck, because that's where a storage yard will be. My main purpose for those 10w fixtures. 

General Floods: Not sure if these will be needed, but they would be the same sort of flood as the above, but for lighting the whole layout for non-operational needs (cleanup, finding a lost purse, bringing in the trains, changing a battery, whatever). 

Landscape Floods: If all goes well, these would be up-lights for the trees, wash-lights for the house, etc. Haven't thought it through, but basically serving purposes of security and fun-ness for the home in general.

Building Lighting: Interior lighting for model structures. And strategically-placed mini-floods for in-layout landscape lighting.

===>Cliffy


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Just realized a fatal flaw in my local voltage regulator idea (to preclude the effects of voltage drop): you can't put a dimmer on such a circuit. I don't really need dimmers, it's just that it would be fun.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Along your drop off areas perhaps a LED rope lite, low enough as not to be seen from other paths... but to remind you....


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Interesting idea John. The weeds would hide a rope light pretty quickly... But I should have some barrier there... Ya got me thinking.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's the latest. Today I learned that I can return the Olde Brooklyn units. Also found a source for the real 12" kerosene lanterns for about $7.50. 

I have the components on order to do a side-by-side comparison, with both retrofitted lanterns running on a 12v circuit.


----------



## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I agree with the cheap look of the old brooklyn lanterns. And with needing to seal them up. In our damp climate, they would either start to corrode or be filled with spider webs in no time. My layout has old Toro low voltage pagoda path lights around the "dry wash" area so I can see to walk into the middle if I need to, and to highlight the pond area. The depot and platforms are also lighted using LGB 18vt bulbs inside and with LGB street lights. Everything is powered off the same 12vt transformer for dusk till dawn operation. The main path lights around our house are Hubble Lighting 120vt ac, 4 tier diecast alum pagoda lights with 40wt bulbs in them. They seal up once the glass lense is screwed down tight and provide plenty of downward lighting to move around the yard/house safely. I have one 12vt Toro variable focus flood light that uplights the one tree in the railway area. I use 196 automotive wedge bulbs in the path lights, they give a nice dim light and last forever when compared to the standard 4 or 7 watt bulbs sold for the path lights. I was loosing 1 or 2 of the normal bulbs each month. I havent lost any of the 196 bulbs in 3 years! I do love the lantern look, if a way to seal them up from bugs and moisture can be found. 


you can see the flood lamp on the left side of the picture, and just make out the pagoda light behind the holly bush. There are 4 of the pagoda lights around the railway, mostly tucked into plantings where they blend in during the daytime, but still provide the lighting effect I want at night. Mike


----------



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I installed 110 flicker bulbs in mine in the train shop and they come on with the lights.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for your ideas guys.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

After getting an LED 12v bayonet bulb (and socket), I did a quick comparison with the Old Brooklyn (running on 3v). 



















The 12v bulb is an LED auto bulb, and seems about as bright (if not brighter) than the OB. Also, while the OB draws .87 watts (.29A @ 3V), the auto lamp seems much more efficient: .36W (.03A @ 12v). 

As for chip arrangement, the OB has 12 pointing laterally in all directions; the auto bulb has the same, plus 4 on top pointing upward, total of 16 chips.

The ability to replace the bulb is very attractive. LED auto bulbs are easily gotten, and range in features and prices. These were $9 for a pair. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPBMWJS

Given the better construction of the real ones (glass globe, slightly thicker metal), and the fact my wife likes the real ones much more, I decided to return to that approach. So I'll send back the OB's (BBB has a good return policy). 

Here's the mounted socket.










It's a 1156 (Plastic) Ba15s Single Circuit bayonet socket from: http://www.autolumination.com/connectors.htm

With a little tweaking, it can shove into the hole where the wick assembly was. The plan is to drill a hole for wire exit, and pot the socket with silicone. For main sealing of the globe, I'll try thin rubber sheet, held over the top of the globe by the sprung cylinder. Better, a thin disk of (reflective) white silicone, to utilize the light more.

===>Cliffy


----------

