# A new dress for Lady Anne - cont'd.



## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

This is a follow-on to the thread I started in the old MLS site:  http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47743&whichpage=1


I've now gotten to the point where I consider the cab/water tank assembly completed and have decided to declare victory.






















The next step will be to paint it with high temperature paint and it will be ready to use on my loco.


Then …  I will start on projects such as making the frames look more realistic, adding details to the boiler and Americanizing the smoke box.  There's plenty to keep me busy for a while longer on this project.


Llyn


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Llyn, 
Your brass work looks great! High Temp paint is not needed. Pick any good quality paint (I use rattle cans from Walmart-Krylon, Rustoleum or Lowes-Valspar enamel) get the parts really clean, warm the parts and paint, prime well and paint a couple of coats then let dry for longer than you think it needs to before handling or decaling. 
Keep up the great work, 
Tom


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Great craftsmanship!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn:  Very nice work.  She looks great.  Looking forward to seeing her in paint and on the rails.  Are you going to do any pin stripe?


 


Bob


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Inspiring work! Jerry


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting approach, making all the superstructure on piece. That will surely make disassembly a snap, if you ever need to do it. Lovely brasswork!


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## Reed (Jan 7, 2008)

A really nice job. 

Reed 
SA 240


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful work Llyn!! It looks great!!


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, 

Wonderful brasswork, I think I need to brush up on my skills! Question for you, What do you use for soldering? I was thinking some sort of resistance unit...


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Looks great! Can't wait to see it painted. I wouldn't worry about the "high temperature" aspect of the paint. I've always just used "regular" Krylon with no negative effects. In truth, the one time I tried using a high-temp bar-be-que paint proved to be, well, less than desirable. The darned stuff flaked right off! So I switched back to the old standby and haven't had any troubles. (One exception--the floquil paint I used on some side tanks of a pot boiler turn a bit browner as they get warm, then return to olive when cooled. Weird.) 

Later, 

K


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the encouraging words, folks.

Tom & Kevin,  The high temperature paint may well be overkill.  Guess I was just going with belt and suspenders on this one.  I really appreciate hearing of your experiences on this.  One interesting note; I just got a set of pop valves and a whistle from Trackside Details which I installed on the steam dome last night.  I drilled holes and soldered them in and, even though I got the dome VERY hot, the paint was not in the least damaged by the heat.  Quite remarkable, that.

Vance,  Actually this sort of modular construction was a Roundhouse creation and you are right that it makes getting the loco apart a whole lot easier than if each piece had to be installed separately.  I used the Roundhouse assembly, squared the windows and doors, added window sash, overlayed the cab sides and tanks with 0.020" brass into which I had embossed the rivet detail.  So, the original Roundhouse cab and tank assembly is all there; but, only a few square inches of the original outer surface are now exposed.

Ryan,  I am using a special, small Bernzomatic torch which I bought from Micromark:








The torch head is relatively small and is on the end of a flexible hose.  Their catalog number is 83035.  I really would like to give electric resistance soldering a try, but the equipment is awfully expensive and the small torch seems to suffice.

I should have more to post in the not-too-distant future.

Llyn


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, 
Beautiful! I look forward to seeing Lady Anne with her new look. 
Best regards, 
Alan


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, 

Thanks for the info on the torch. I had forgotten they sold that one. Then again, I don't do too much for brass detail work either, but I will be changing that soon!


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## HeliconSteamer (Jan 2, 2008)

I have that little torch too and it really does work a treat. Small but very capable of doing most anything I need.


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## Don Howard (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's another view of Lady Anne from the Winooski show 12/01/2007 where she was under steam.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

That is one beautiful little engine.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn,
I have a Graskop resistance soldering unit made by Dick Ganderton of the UK. I don't know if he still makes them, but he can be reached at:
Graskop, Dewlands Road, Verwood, Dorset, BH31 6PN
tel: 01202 822 701
e-mail: [email protected]

It was not very expensive as these things go, but I bought it when the dollar was doing better against the pound. I am very happy with it since it has several power levels and is easy to use. Contact him for more information. Also, there are a few articles on how to make your own if your are eager to try. Here is one:  http://www.trainweb.org/bristol-s-gauge/Projects/rsu.html
There was a good thread on this subject at:  http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26176


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, Great looking work. I think brass is really fun to work with once you get the hang of it. Click the link in Vance's sinature for plans to build a resistance solderer using a battery charger. I have been having pretty good luck soldering details with a small butane torch but have considered building a resistance solderer from Vance's plans. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.


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## steamboatmodel (Jan 2, 2008)

When you are useing a resistance soldering unit, is it like a spot welder, or do you still use flux and solder? 
If you use flux and solder is it soft solder or hard(silver) solder? 
Regards 
Gerald


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Gerald,
Resistance soldering uses the same sorts of flux and solder one would use with a soldering iron or a torch.  Resistance soldering is unique in that the part to be soldered is heated by passing an electric current through it.
Llyn


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn......I really like that you changed to a flared rear bunker top....much nicer than the fence railing you had before.  Working with brass is sooooo much fun.

Very nice!!


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

While one might find a north American prototype with a fence around the bunker, it just looked too European.  I'm glad I took the time to change it.

Llyn


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

It has been a while since I last posted anything on this project. Just after the last post, I bought an Accucraft K28 and spent most of my time tinkering with it and getting it to run to run really well. Now, the time has come to finish Americanizing my Lady Anne. Since I last posted, I have reworked the smoke box area. The changes include a brass pilot plate under the smoke box, simulated dogs to "hold the smokebox door closed," and American-style number plate, headlamp and generator. 






























My next task will be to Americanize the undercarriage. Ideally, I would fully disassemble the frames and machine them out to have the open appearance we're so used to. I don't really want to tear the running gear down all of the way, so I expect to apply overlays to the frame to give the general appeance of an open frame. Once that is done, I should need only paint the engine and declare victory. It's been quite an adventure making this conversion.

Llyn


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## Tenn Steam (Jan 3, 2008)

Great looking loki. Do your have to remove the entire superstructure to add gas and oil? I am currently working on a 7/8ths Forney from a Lady. It may be a while and it may end up an 0-6-4 outside frame, but at least it now steams. 
Bob


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bob,

Actually, it's really easy to service. I machined the sand dome to fit over the water fill plug and it simply lifts off when I fill the boiler. The fuel tank, steam oiler and R/C battery pack are in the cab and very easily serviced by lifting the roof off (it's a gravity/friction fit). The R/C on-off switch is just inside the engineer's cab door and easily reached without moving anything.

I look forward to seeing how your 7/8ths critter comes out.

Llyn


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, 

A wonderful look. Great to see the progress since Larry Green first brought you over to the dark side (live steam) three years ago!!!! 

I can't wait to see it in person! 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan, bringing Llyn "over" wasn't difficult, it just took awhile. It sort of went "steam is nice, but I am into contemporary mainline in 1:29; steam is nice, but not on my electric track; steam is nice, and I found a dealer with a Lady Ann in stock; I bought a K-28, I guess I need some 1:20.3 rolling stock for it; I really like that SP 2-10-2 that is coming out, and it should look OK pulling my 1:29 cars". 
And, now that spring is finally arriving in Vermont, the emails have started again: "what day are we going to boil water this week?" Or, something like that. 

Larry


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I want my loco to have American-style frames which are normally see-through. While I could have fully disassembled the loco to cut the steel frame plates, I decided to make 0.063" thick brass overlays instead. The design for the overlays was complex enough that I really did not want to try to cut them by hand. As luck would have it, a fellow who attends the same church as I owns a business that does water jet cutting. So, I made arrangements with him. The machine's work bed is a water tray with metal support slats running across to support the material to be cut. You can see the water jet parked over the far end to the work bed.









The water jet is positioned and guided from this console. I designed the sideframe overlays using Autosketch software which he was able to load into the control console.









The water exits the nozzle through a 0.030" diameter opening under a pressure of 50,000 psi! The machine also entrains finely ground abrasive grit into the high pressure water stream to speed and smooth the cut. Getting the high pressure requires a 30hp electric motor. (I'm glad I don't have his electric bill). Here, the technician has put the brass sheet in place and is positioning the nozzle to begin the cut.









Once everything was ready to go, he raised the water leve to submerge the work which reduces the noise and splattering.









This is how the frame pieces looked after cutting. They needed a bit of de-burring.









Here is a picture of one of the frame overlays next to the loco.









Llyn


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, you are finally back on the Lady Anne! Will it be done in time for Diamondhead? 

Larry


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I wouldn't care to bet my next pension check on being done that soon.

Llyn


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Llyn - beautiful work all round. I'd be VERY proud to run that loco on any track that I'm associated with, and I'd bet that Roger and the boys and girls over at Roundhouse would be tickled to see it when it's finally done 

best 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Wow, that looks awesome! Can't wait to see it all the way finished!


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, the time has come to finally declare victory in my efforts to Americanize my Lady Anne.

By June, I had finished the mechanical modifications and tested my loco on Larry Green's layout.



















By October, I had painted the loco and took advantage of the last decent weather to give it another test.




























Turns out that painting a steamer which has been used can be a bear. I gave it a fastidious cleaning and the paint still did not adhere well. So, I bought a small sand-blaster (modified air brush) from Micro Mark. With that, I could give my cleaned brass enough tooth for the paint to adhere well.

Since October, I've installed LEDs in the lamps and lettered the loco.





































All that remains is for me to make a carrying case. I expect that I'll take Lady Anne with me to ECLSTS.

Just as a reminder, this is what she looked like before I started the conversion.


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, Brilliant, that's a vast improvement on the standard RH product.


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## Don Howard (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful! 
KDs, rivits all over the place, square windows, and I am sure there are other details I've missed. 

Does she still run like the original Lady Anne? 
Will she have a new name, too?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

My efforts to get the loco clean enough for painting left all of the journals and bearing surfaces very dry and stiff. Once properly lubricated and run in, she went back to "running like a roundhouse." I've not put any name labeling on her; but, she'll just go on being Lady Anne.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job Llyn, really first class. If you could, post some video.

Congratulations, Bob


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, would be hard pressed to guess the origin of the loco without looking closely, well done!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job!


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice, VERY Nice! (More like AWESOME!)


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you, all, for your kind words. As I look back, I realize that this project has taken more than three years. Some of the time, other projects have come up which took precedence. Other times, I've know what I wanted but wasn't sure just how I would get there. It seems to have worked best to proceed in spurts as the inspiration struck me.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

It's a beautiful job, Llyn, worthy of a mention the Model Steam Hall of Fame and a great contender for Model of the Year. You are rightly proud of it! 

Happy new Year to one and all! 

tac, mrs tac and the family ig 
www.ovgrs.org 
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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