# Switch Reliability Questions



## dms1 (May 27, 2010)

Switch Reliability Questions. I am going to building a simple dogbone shaped layout using Aristocraft 6.5 foot diameter curves on the main line and plan to use either Train Li R4, Aristocraft "Wide" or LBG R3 Switches on the main loop. My question is which of these switches are the most reliable? I will be using manual switches, no motors.

Also, I am using RR-Track layout software which has all of the switches except for the Train-Li - How do the Train-Li R4 switches compare in size to the others?

For industrial switches I will be using a couple of USA Trains or LGB R1 Switches I have or sell them and upgrade to Train-Li R3, but again, I don't know their dimensions.

Anyone have any pictures of these switches comparing their size? 

Thanks

Dave S


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The train-li website has very large images of the ProSwitch switches. 
I believe the ProSwitch R4 is very much the same as LGB R3 (different R naming convention) except the straight section is 45cm, a little longer by about 1cm. 
The ProSwittch R3 looks to be 37.75cm long. 
If you download the free limited AnyRail design software (only small) all the brands you mention are there. Set the grid size and use the ruler in the software. 

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Train-Li usually has their numbering to mean radius, so the R4 is a switch with an "even" curve like LGB on the diverging route, 8' diameter. 

Aristo WR switches are similar geometry but 10' diameter 

LGB R3 are 8' diameter. 

With your curves the Train-Li and the LGB are better choices if you are including the diverging route in a curve. 

R1 is VERY tight, very few locos will go through them other than LGB and small SG locos. 4 foot diameter. I would not compare them to the Train-Li R3, 6 foot diameter. 

I'd not worry about pictures, you seem to have a tightly constrained layout, and I would work out the largest switches you can. 

Why don't we start at the beginning.... what locos do you plan to run? No sense selecting switches until you know if your locos will work or not. 

Then we can help you with your track plan, I have RR-Track and can draw something up for you, or maybe we can get Victor Smith "on line"... 

Greg


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## dms1 (May 27, 2010)

This is what I'm working with:

*Here are the locos I have so far:*
Bachmann 36 Ton Shay
Bachmann 25 Ton Climax
Bachmann Narrow Gauge 2-6-0 Mogul
Bachman Industrial 2-6-0 Mogul
Bachman 0-4-0 Side Tank Porter
Accucraft Ruby

This is going to be setup similar to the Door Hollow Short line, it will have 6 - 4 Foot by 7 Foot modules (picture below) Also I am still in the planning stages and I am going to be getting rid of that 7 foot by 1 foot extension on the upper left top side. The triangle s will be scenery only, no track. The large turnouts in this example are LGB R3s and the small turnouts are A-C R1. I am still working on the Industria\switching areas and want to have a mountain\tunnel of some sort at one end. Hope the picture shows up.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...ETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src=


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My first thought is that in your track plan, there's almost nothing that would not allow you using larger switches, i.e. more gentle ones. I would not use any R1 switches even though most of your locos would run over them. 

I'd stick to the R3 turnouts or the R4 ones. 

Also, since this is apparently a narrow gauge layout, I'd use code 250 rail, which is not from any of the vendors you quoted. Look at Sunset Valley Railroad. 

Greg


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Looks fine, if you need any dense yards where length is limited use Train-Li R3 (3' radius). 
The switch's straight sections of LGB 2' is 30cm, the Train-Li 3' is 37.75cm and LGB 4' is 44cm. so you can gain or lose about 2-1/2" per switch in your siding lengths. 

Andrew


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I agree, your locos will run with R1's. But use as large as you can fit or afford. You will be happier in the long run.


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## dms1 (May 27, 2010)

Here is the bench work I will be using (below), 6 - 4 Foot by 7 Foot raised modules. I did test the the larger locos thru an LGB R1 switch and the NG 2-6-0 Mogul derailed every time. That is one of the reasons I am going with the larger switches on the main loop. I am going to check out \ compare the switches in AnyRail to compare them in size. 

Also, I have already got all the track I need for the layout (plus lots of extra) I just don't have the switches I need. 

Anyone here use RR-Track V5 and have issues with the libraries?

Thanks

Dave S 


http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...ETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src=


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think I'm still on v4.... have to see how it all runs on win 8.... my layout is made from Aristo sectional track. 

Greg


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## dms1 (May 27, 2010)

I forgot to ask, which Switch is built better Train Li or LGB?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Dave,

Train-Li have a metal frog point. LGB is plastic. 

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

And the Train-Li metal frog is held in place by a screw, so it could be easily changed if it ever had the point wear out!!


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

Personally I think that LGB switches are over rated. I purposely bought about five of them to use inside my storage shed. Then I decided to add one more, and bought an Airsto switch. The Aristo switch for this purpose was way better. It was smoother operating, and the LGB switches hung up all the time. Since I have sold all of them and bought Train li for my new yards. They are really nice.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, but some of the Train-Li switches have issues with the frog not sitting down flush with the surrounding rails. 

All things considered though, I agree the Train-Li switch is better overall. 

Greg


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

I like my LGB R3 switches (manual) and the only issue is keeping them firm against the rail as the locomotive and cars pass over them. The simple door latch spring holder works very well to keep them in place. I've got friends with LGB, Aristocraft and Tain-Li switches and they all seem to agree that any switch is only as good as the maintenance and pre-running cleanup that you are willing to do. More problems with gravel or other small rocks getting into the frog or between the rails. Of course, cost always plays in to the final decision as well. Looks like a nice layout for a couple of industrial or wholesale businesses. Good luck with the project.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I have had some issues with LGB switches: 

- One appeared to have one of the point rails poorly machined; it did not match the others in appearance, and would cause the wheel flanges to ride up and derail. I filed it down to get it to work. 

- Switches are vulnerable to derail when backing up. The problem is especially bad with two-axle cars if the switch is turning the opposite way from the most recent curve. I try to avoid this track configuration, but it's a pain otherwise.


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

Thanks, I will watch for that Greg.
Paul


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