# PRR Railroad Barge



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

It was brought to my attention that I could combine my life long love of trains and my new found interest in Tug Boats. There is still an operating barge system between NY & NJ run by PRR. 
I am going about this in what could be considered reverse order as the barge will be built before the tug as it will be a scratch build, the tug is a kit, PRR. The scale of the tug was a serious consideration as I wanted to use the cars, track and possibly other things that I already have. 
So far I have what will be the deck with the track plan. Have small parts on order, hope to receive this week.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> operating barge system between NY & NJ run by PRR


It may be operating, but it ain't run by PRR ! They disappeared 50 years ago.

It seems to be "*New York* *New Jersey Rail* LLC, owned and operated by the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey."










http://nynjr.com/


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Used to be heavy into ships, the river tow was my favorite to model


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

J&M made a very nice PRR tugboat and a small car float in 1/32 scale; these show up from time to time for a price. PRR had quite a few tug and barge operations: the ones in New York harbor from Greenville to Long Island or Manhattan, The one at the tip of the Delmarva peninsula to Norfolk or thereabouts, and I understand that they had one on lake Michigan from one of the terminus of that branch going up to Mackinaw city up to the north. but I have very little info on this latter one. 

But these are standard gauge and I thought that you were running Sandy River Nick? 

Indeed there is a new company that has been set up to recreate a tug and railroad car float barge service in New York, I just read it in the Trains Newswire. I have no idea when the ex Pennsy ones closed, I think they said it has been thirty years since which would mean 1988. Other roads had car floats in New York harbor too.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

A few weeks ago I visited the open house of the electric boat club in the Villages, FL. On the scale side were a couple of barges with cable attached "tow" boats pushing and being maneuvered by tugs at the bow for sharper turns. The freight was containers but certainly train cars could have been the cargo. All of this was RC controlled and more impressive to me than the high speed electric boats negotiating the "racing" oval.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

PRR, NYC, CNJ, and LI RRs all had car floats operating in NY Harbor and connecting rivers. I love car float ops too!! The most interesting of the "rail meets water" ops imho.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete: I should have said "was operated" by PRR., although the PRR is alive and well in my house. The Tug is named Jersey City and has a large PRR logo painted on the stack. 
du-bousquetair: I do have the Sandy River, among several others, a lot of standard sized 1:29. The kit is made by Dumas and is 1:32, close enough for me. 
Tom: this tug will also be R/C'd. Nick @ Harbor Models directed me to the Viper Marine 25, very versatile. It acts like a servo, supplies power to the receiver and is also programmable for Fwd & Rev using only one stick on the transmitter.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Since I am using 1/4" underlay for decking I felt the need to add stringers below deck following the rail profile to give the nails a better bite and also secure the deck from flexing. A pic of a tie plate cut in half. I saw a pic of what looked like that welded to the deck with the rail secured to it. Made two track gauges from scrap wood, crude looking but non the less accurate. Making progress. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, I also got the Dumas Jersey City tub. Great boat takes some getting used to controlling it correctly. Leans easy with to much speed. The prop gives it plenty of muscle to push a loaded barge of 12-15 cars. A track barge needs to be 7'6". Use 250 code rail looks allot better. Put latex foam in all the rail cars, don't ask how I know this... also put foam in the barge it self. To make it operate more scale on the bottom of the barge put reverse v cleats to add resistance which makes the tug work harder and kick up more water, looks scale and makes it work slower which is scale. I rode along side one on the Hudson in a friends boat and boy was it pushing hard and moving slow. I made 2 barges a 3 track barge and a 2 track loading barge with the center platform. Working on a Crane drag line barge barge now. Also the wooden tires that come with the kit discard and buy a used Hess 18 wheeler. Tires look 1000% better and they are soft which helps when you are attached to the side of the barge. Harbor models makes a great smoke unit for it and believe it or not Dallee makes a great sounding tug sound unit with tug horn. Call and they can demo it for you. Jack


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Under car float in the photo gallery Here is my tug. http://forums.mylargescale.com/members/4301-bdp3wsy-albums-carfloat.html


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, I appreciate your advice. I measured my barge to hold 11 cars, a 3 track with the turnout. I am going to put foam in the barge, and can figure why to also put it in the cars, reason is not fun I'm sure. Still in basic construction so I can easily add the reverse V cleats, good idea. I also didn't like the wood tires. I am going to use 8' sections of 332 Al rail as that is what I have on hand and it's just collecting dust. I figure if I paint the rail same as the deck, with just the top polished, that may size it down some, I also am due to receive the Dumas running hardware which has a geared down assembly. Your tug is beautiful, and thank you for the info on the sound and smoke units. Am looking at marine paint, but thinking that may be over kill, your thoughts??? LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Decks are basic gray primer rustoleum rattle can. Hull was painted with reddish primer then above the water line was gloss black again rustoleum rattle cab, This way any scratches in the black the sprimer below made it look like rust for little nicks and scratches. Cabin is caboose red air brushed. Still looks great. A little ware and tear makes it even look better. All lights are 1mm SMD LEDs prewired for 12v that you can get on Ebay for a couple bucks for a dozen. I use the Dumas 12V motor instead of the 6V. Battery lasts longer. When you add ballast use buck shot in zip lock bags mixed with a little glue. Easy to add more or take some away if you need to change anything. The stuffing tube that comes with the Dumas setup is just OK. I used it for weeks and did not have to add grease, white lithium, topped it off as usual one day and after 15 min run time the water alarm went off. Got it back just before damage. I had to rip it out and put in a greaseless stuffing tube, wish I did from the start it was a hassle and took allot of time to do. PS get a water alarm also. Sits in the bottom and has a super bright flashing LED you mount out side mine is in the wheel house works great for less then $10 and will save you a walk or swim out to save it. Also if you run it with no one else running a boat have in your tool bag a Popel Pocket Fishing rod. I paid 7.50 on eBay. Put a small weight on it so you can cast over the boat and drag it back in. Had to do that rescue twice when I got weeds wrapped around the prop once and the second time was an old fishing line floating in the water that wrapped around the prop jamming it. If some one is running at the same time they can push you back. On youtube you can see how to make a rescue frame out of 1/2" PVC pipe you strap to the rescue boat to help retrieve the boat. Costs about $4 in material with pipe and caps and about 10min to make. The gears that come in the kit give it a 1 to 3 reduction and work great, just keep them greased each use. They are brass and will wear fast if run dry.  Mine are 5 years old and run and look like new.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

also get a VIPER MARINE 25 speed control. It is water proof and gives you fine control forward and reverse. Jack


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Oh, and the real Jersey City is still in use today. Somewhere down south.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thank you for the additional advice and information. I also got the 12V motor. When I spoke about paint, I meant for the barge, since I am making it out of wood. Didn't know the 'stuffing tube' was for grease, looks like a tight enough fit to use heavy oil. LiG


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

A lovely vessel with a long history.

http://www.tugboatinformation.com/tug.cfm?id=5678


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan, thank you for the update. I not only like to build things, but knowing the history of some of them is even better. I printed that out and will keep it with the model when I do build it. I had at one time thought of changing the name to TRINITY, a beloved dog of mine that has passed. I do like the history of the name. Bouncing back and forth. LiG


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Nick,
Great minds think alike they say.  I have a Bachmann 1;22.5 J&S car repainted to represent a diner. That is named, Poppy, after one of my dead dogs. Incidentally my backyard is a dog and cat graveyard having always had those kind animals since we came here in 1965.
The cross Hudson ferries are quite interesting, since a few railroads had them. I get much of my 'history' of American railroads from Classic Trains - a great read.
My railroad is mainly Aristo stock, set in 1950 - 1970 era, which Aristo seemed to specialize in. My structures, principally built from lumber patio decking - they will see me out most likely  - and most represent North American buildings. There is a grain elevator, a barn, a covered bridge and the old school house at Waubeka WI. Lots of history with them.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan, we do seem like minded in several things. I have all of my past little family members in Urns on a book shelf. And my consist is also largely the Aristo 50's and 60's. My track is elevated as getting up and down became a chore several years ago so I presently have no structures. When the track was ground level I made several using the Jig Stone method and they are still in use on another layout. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have made some progress in the build. Fashioned what looks like the bow of the one in the pic. Taking the advice I received here and also on another forum, filled the ballast area with foam, have enough left over to also install in the cars I intend to use, thank you for sharing that advice Jack as I'd hate to loose 11 cars in an event. Planning on using Kilz as a sealer and primer since ti will only be in the water for one hour at a time, other suggestions welcome.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> I have made some progress in the build. Fashioned what looks like the bow of the one in the pic. Taking the advice I received here and also on another forum, filled the ballast area with foam, have enough left over to also install in the cars I intend to use, thank you for sharing that advice Jack as I'd hate to loose 11 cars in an event. Planning on using Kilz as a sealer and primer since ti will only be in the water for one hour at a time, other suggestions welcome.


............................................
Nick Jr. We have a 4 foot frt. barge with a R/C Tug that work pretty will and was thinking of a Rolling stock Bradge with only two tracks for 4 cars. That would fit thru my Auto Swing Bridge. 
http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/noelw/Barge/Tug & old barge.JPG


Nick Jr. Question. Any information on any testing of floating your barge like how much height off the water with load and unload. This may be a problem with us not going real wide on a barge. Anyway it a neat idea and will keep watching to see how yours turns out.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

noelw. very nice water way connection. The top side of this barge is 69 3/4" long X 15 1/8" wide, bottom is 1" shorter. I have no idea about floating with or without load, I'm just 'winging' or in this case 'floating' to see what happens. Even more reason to fill the cars with foam. Having fun doing so. LiG


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> noelw. very nice water way connection. The top side of this barge is 69 3/4" long X 15 1/8" wide, bottom is 1" shorter. I have no idea about floating with or without load, I'm just 'winging' or in this case 'floating' to see what happens. Even more reason to fill the cars with foam. Having fun doing so. LiG


Thanks for the update. We kind of did the same thing by adding foam in our box cars and closed the doors when we install and tested our swing bridge, 
just in case the bridge blocks didn't work.. Ok, we'll keep watch and let you do the float tests first. lol


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, You can use bar top resin or glass both are simple to use. Before you put the top on do a test float. I cut out a section of the foam and put in a topper ware container with 25-30 lbs of surf casting weights. This is to lower it in the water to add ballast. You want it down about an 1" in the water. Without it the wind will drag the barge and tug sideways and pull the tug over and makes it a ton easier to control. Some drill holes in the bottom to let water in as ballast so when removing it from the water it makes it easier to retrieve and carry and transport. The water drains out and uses the foam to float it, but you then have to bar top or glass the inside of the hull. I also install spring hooks under each car attached between the rails this way everyone stays seated and the foam inside is just incase. Note after test floating and finding where you want it to sit subtract the weight of the railcars from the weights and you are good to go. When I run it empty I have some 1/4" steel weights bars between the rails to simulate the weight of the cars. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, Appreciate your insite to this. i just installed the top yesterday, and the whole thing is only 3" thick. I really need to float test it, but I don't want it to bob around like a cork. How big is your barge that you added that much weight? I could easily still add weight to the bottom. It would be center of gravity and since it is out of site doesn't have to be pretty, any old heavy stuff will do, and as Jack suggested would also add needed drag.. Some how I must have read your mind. I had a thought to add springs and hooks to each truck or coupler to hold the cars in place. I have LGB wheel chocks, but they are just for looks. The great part of forums, getting the experience and thoughts of others.. Life is Good


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

The three track barge is 7'5"(had to fit the suv) x 16" x 3.5". Loaded it floats at 2.25"above the water just perfect. A friend is a pilot for ny harbor and he says you would be surprised bring in a fully loaded cargo ship how the wind will effect it coming in. This is the same wind that our RC boats run up against but it scales up x 30 times. Here is a great site for boat parts, https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ship_fittings.html
Go to the fittings section on the left to find replacement parts , for the bollards the ones in the kit are not up to pulling a barge, use the ones like the ones from Robbe and bolt them thru the deck or the metal Sampson post for the bow or along the rails. They ship pretty fast. I replaced all the portholes with the brass ones what a difference. You will find cleats for the barge and hatch doors for the clean out hatchs that are between each cleat. They have fenders both tires and rope. I have the bow rope fender for a different look, just have to soak it in tea to make it look aged. Jack


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick a good trick for models that was shown to be by lewis polk, he lives about 5 blocks from me in Watchung NJ is if you want to model something in 1/29th you scale it up 300% from HO. A friend buy Walthers Cornerstone models take the parts and puts them on a scanner at 300% prints the parts. Then places the parts back in the box and sells it on eBay. He did a 500 ton G scale coaling tower this way and wow what a beauty. Handles 3 engines at a time. That is why lewis picked 1/29 saved him a ton on engineering, just buy a HO model and scale it up. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, that is wealth of info, will print it out as it is a lot to absorb, thank you very much. Today I am going to build a pond as zephyra did to test his boat. I'm thinking mine will fully float and not go under at all, not what I want. Today I added a skirt to the existing build. Planning on using PVC or iron pipe bolted to the bottom with a screw fitting on one end so I can add or subtract sand to get the proper draft. LiG


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I used to have to ride this thing to do work on the island. Before they had a concrete rampway, they used to do beach landings via a ramp that was connected to the barge itself. Busted my gas tank wide open on one exit. needless to say armor was added to the gas tank then the island managements tell us they got someone else to do the work.
















when i road it there were no safety rails


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice pic's, looks a bit rough on the lower one. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a shot of the barge in the yard. Basic assembly with a rough coat of rust resistant paint. It still needs a lot of work but spring duties will take precedence so progress may slow even more. LiG


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## jokensa (Dec 4, 2014)

really cool!


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

That's Huuuge!, not to get off topic, but this reminds me of something I saw in GR some years ago. Somebody needed a place to store their rolling stock when not in use, had a large pond on his property, so he built a ship, out of steel, welded, an LST I believe to store his equipment. I'll have to look through my library of GR, so I can find his name.

Found it. February 2013 issue of GR, pg 48, "The Train Ship", 750 lbs, made out of 1/4" sheet steel, 4 tracks wide inside, almost 20 ft long.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

jokensa , thank you. Mike, still interesting and very creative and a good use of otherwise unused space. His LST is much bigger and heavier than this barge. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

As I had previously mentioned it looked like the tie plates were welded to the deck and the rails attached to them. To achieve the appearance of that I split each 4 hole tie plate and am individually spiking each to the rail and deck. I also dismantled a standard Aristo turnout and am using it as the rails are already machined to allow the fit of the moved rails. Individual spiking of rail is a new and learning experience for me. What you see is a few hours of trial and error. I will appreciate advice from those that have already done this. Thank You.
EDIT: found that my Al rail is slightly twisted. Removed, clamped it in a vice and straightened it. Also thinking of using nails with slightly bigger heads. The color of the nail won't matter as it's all going to be painted. LiG


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

use a rail gauge Nick or make one, and be very careful in the viscinity of the frog the distance between the gauge as well as the check rails is critical at that point. 

In real track technology it is much more involved as the rails straighten out in the frog erea giving the wheelsets which are conical a chance to center themselves. The main problem in gauge one is that if one follows G1MRA standards the wheels drop into the frog which is unsightly as cars and engines bounce through the point, and it quickly develops wear. But fine scale will produce a captive layout where your friends can't run...
There are many other subtelties to know about making pointwork. One usefull tool to make its components is the disk grinder! Goes a lot faster then do a finnish with the file. File was OK as long as I was making HO trackwork with G scale rail it becomes a bit wearysome. But it isn't as complicated as one thinks. My luck was that I was living in the States back in the sixties and early seventies when handlaid track was very much in fashion, to use scale rail. When Shinohara track became available this ended that, but I had learned by then, look up articles in Model railroader from that era. There were also some very enlightening articles in the G1MRA newsletter back in the late seventies by Stewart Hines. I learned a great deal then on the subject.
I have points where derailments are practically unheard of. Especially since I used the technique I explain in the current tie and spikes forum.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Simon: I appreciate your input as I know your are very experienced in the fine scale of our hobby and your advice is well suited to someone laying main or branch line rail. As the title says, this is a Barge, no through traffic and any movement is even slower than in a flat switch yard. As I mentioned earlier in this topic I am using left over code 332 Al rail and 1: 29 cars. I posted a pic of a couple of crude rail gauges, which the more I look at the less I am secure in their performance, but will try them. In addition I am dismantling and using an equally left over Aristo turnout that will be slightly modified to fit and maybe still function. I've never claimed to be a true scale modeler but I have fun modifying and running my trains. Life is Good


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Looks great!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob, thank you. I am presently working on the turnout, and much to my surprise have been able to make it work. After I make the guide rails I will post a couple of pics. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is the turnout, and I am happy to say it works very well. I tested it with a wheel set taken off a 1:29 box car. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's tip that I found useful when hand laying track on the barge and maybe even for main and branch lines. After roughing up the bottom of the rail I used Epoxy to adhere the tie plates to the rail. I could then make minor adjustments of alignment and then drive the nail. With the plates and rails as one made driving the nails much easier. Almost have the divergent rail in place. Still havin' fun. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I finished part of the divergent rail. As the pic shows I used a couple of Hillman's on top o the rail to keep them aligned while nailing. It only required a little bit of filing to get the sharp points off the ends. Again using the truck just pushed it and let the momentum carry it both ways without any guidance and all went well.
After just this little bit of hand laying track I have a new found respect for those of you who do. 
Trying to add detail I have tried to order Rail Joiners or Fish Plates from Ozark using EM and VM but have not received a response. Hoping all is well and they are just attending a function. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Track is all welded (spiked0 down. Had to lay the barge down as the ceiling isn't high enough for me to get the whole thing in. Now going to make the aligning pockets and other small details. The cleats for the barge and the tires for the tug are arriving today. Looking for or will make bumpers. Still haven't herd from Ozark so will most likely make one set of Fish Plates and then cast the rest using the Micro Mark system. I have even made lawn mower parts using their casting product. Life is Good.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The cleats arrived yesterday. I'm very happy with the size. Slightly modified them as the tug will actually be pulling the barge with them. The brads will be slightly counter sunk and the hole filled in. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have made a mistake in attempting to order or manufacture Fish Plates. After a very careful examination of the posted pics of the barge it appears that the rail is welded. I did find where I am missing guide rails on the single track and am adding them. Now focusing on the end rail bumpers and ground throw. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Just received beautiful bumpers that are offered by locomotivejoe.ecrater.com He also carries other useful things in G scale. I will make them removable so they are less likely to be damaged during transportation. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll call this the 'safety station'. As you can see it is also removable for transportation. The actual pic's of the barge didn't show a fire extinguisher, but I will add one when it arrives. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Last wek I saw a special about unusual Railroads, this one was mentioned. According to the author this barge still transports 24,000 cars each year, I thought that was amazing.
Even thought the rails are most likely welded I still like the look of Fish Plates. Found a company, 'Shapeways' that does 3D printing. Ray was very responsive and interested in making them for 332 rail. We exchanged Emails and measurements. I received and am very happy with them and the price was competitive if you are using many of them. The company also offers many other devices, signal towers to mention one, you may be interested in. Also received the fire extinguishers. 
No pics as I am still recovering from a hard drive crash, only comment on that is Geek Squad great service on recovering data and Solid State Hard drive replacement is the way to go. Life is Good


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Started adding the Fish Plates from Shapeways. LiG


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Along with a lot of other guys I have been watching the progress on your project, Nick. I have to say that I did not appreciate the size of the barge and the detailed work involved.
Looks good so far.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan, thank you. Barge is really just a plain floating platform, so I'm trying to make it as interesting as possible. Building a tank so I can add ballast underneath so it doesn't just bob around like a cork. LiG


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, I should have remembered that things Stateside generally tend to be much larger than over in The Olde Country. 
I am used to car ferries around here but they are much shorter than a railroad car ferry.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I appreciate the interest and suggestions others have shown in this project. LiG


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> Started adding the Fish Plates from Shapeways. LiG


Llagas Creek make "insulated" fishplates that are pretty accurate models, from molded brown plastic - they look just like yours!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, yes they do look similar. The differences I saw are the price and the size. Llagas are for code 215 rail and I am using 332. . Shapeways come to $ 1.04/pair including shipping, received 200 pieces. the llagas come to $ 1.32 for what is equal to the pair, not counting shipping. LiG.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Building the test pond wasn't as bad as I had envisioned. the pond is on a patio slab that is pitched away from the house as one pis shows. Ruler pic shows water depth of 10" and the barge is 5 1/2" high so about 3" is below water. My first look it seemed like it was listing. the pics of the levels show differently. The first silver one is the deck pitch and the second one is the deck Fore to Aft and the blue one is Port to Starboard. I also took measurements of the draft, show the bow 1/4" higher than the stern. I am going to use 10 empty hoppers that each weigh 1 3/4lbs and 1 tank that weighs 2.0 lbs, so about 20lbs. I'm happy with the results. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I added dish soap to break surface tension and make the water wetter. Diluted the red paint and took K's advice and used a brush. Had water and air hoses at the ready. I used the air to blow the paint from under the rail. I separated some of the original diluted red and added some black. I hope it looks better. Cleaned off the rail tops, still haven't dull coated it yet as I'm not sure if this is the final look. Just realized I don't have a ground throw, need to look for one. Pics: 1: just primer from boat yard. 2: just red. 3 & 4 with the black added. 5 & 6 close ups so you can get a real look. Suggestions appreciated. LiG.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Looks good mate


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank You Scott. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Oh my, suggestions appreciated, oh my...


I'd dilute India ink in rubbing alcohol and spray it on to cut the sheen and to collect in the corners where dirt gathers ... easier to build up layers than undo color.... perhaps none where crew men walk... or have them track a different dirt. 

Try blotting on color (in places) to avoid or break up brush marks.



You're doing great.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you for the suggestion, I will try that. LiG
Edit: finding confusing results looking on line, some mention Alcohol Ink and other mention India ink. off to Staples or Office Depot.
Edit: found India ink in various colors on Staples web site, going to try that. Already have Ethanol and Isopropyl alcohols.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

For built up dirt, grease and rust use a dry brush then stipple the grimy colours onto the areas that need it.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you. This is my first attempt at weathering in a very long time. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, just touching the ink/alcohol to the deck scared me off. I mixed more black into the diluted paint I was using to try and follow Scott's suggestion. Not very good, but as close as what I thought he meant. I have no artistic ability at all, so may leave it at this. Took it outside to get the same light as the other pics. The sun shine is different, the previous were in the shade and this is full sun. It is darker where the crew would walk and lighter between the rails. I do like how the sides came out, really looks like running rust. I had a idea: I used a hose and rinsed it off. It didn't seem to have any effect on the paint, but a foam seemed to rise and run down and off. The foam stayed bubbly till it soaked into the soil, I have no clue what that was, any ideas????
I did find a grown throw made by Bachmann, should have it in about a week. 
Happy 4th to all. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Dish soap? To make a gallon of wet water it takes one drop of detergent ... I'm guessing you went with a tad more than a drop.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, I had forgotten about the soap. I did use one drop, cheap stuff, in a quart of water before adding the paint. so that would be 4X as much as needed. I still have a pint of diluted paint left. If that much soap collected on the surface and produced that much foam I'm glad I rinsed it off. Still waiting before sealing it with dull coat as I'm really not sure this is the final look. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I see I forgot to mention I really like the rusted side. 

Your barge must be down on it's luck tho' as I'm used to seeing a red bottom and a water line...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you, I like the sides best myself, wish I could get the deck to look better. I'm going to hose it off again today and see if more soap comes off. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, is this more like you meant? This is done with leather dye for shoes. Still trying. 
John, none of the pics of this barge I have show a water line like a boat or ship.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I sit corrected! Sun of a gun....


Feather the edges maybe ...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, I'm still trying, more today. On the bright side I finished the Safety Zone. Had to make the fire extinguisher a little bigger using brass tubing. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Nick - nice start, build up the weathering and grime in layers - if you have top deck pics that'll help achieving that maritime look. Keep on posting progress pics. You'll find the best method that will suit you best for weathering.

Talking about weathering techniques - what I did for the weathering on the timber gantry I used a dry brush loaded up with paint then stained the timber by brushing on then wiping off with paper towel after 20 seconds. More time means darker stain and less time lighter stain.

The timber parts were when dry they were rubbed lightly with a fine grit paper to highlight wear and the grain.

The styrene and metal pieces were spray painted black or grey and when dry were initially weathered with a dry brush loaded with grimy or rusty colours depending on location and its exposure to the elements. Then once the whole model was assembled extra dirt, coal and grime added with reference to pictures.

The complete model was also drybrushed with ground brown chalk plus I used barbeque briquette debris that was further crushed to dust. 

It's amazing what ideas and items are around the house - I was making a Weber Roast when I noticed the contents in the bottom of the briquettes bag. Win - Win


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, I'm still trying. Like you mentioned, I am learning about layering. The feathering or blending doesn't seem to happen in one stroke of the brush. Finding things around the house is how I came on the shoe dye that I put on, but it seemed to come out too dark so had to go over the whole area again with the previous mixture and pretty much start all over. No problem as I'm in no hurry, just want to get it as close to the pics I have as I can. Thank you for your input. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

After much trial and error I think I'm close to the desired effect that Scott described. While waiting for the ground throw going to make coal loads for the hoppers. I will take NOWLW's advice and use foam as a base so they'l float. LiG.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Nice.
I went looking for images of barges and found;


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I am doing the one that operated in Jersey City, with the tug of the same name. I'm following the pic and video that some one posted earlier. I do see your point, many other carriers did and may still do have the hull painted red, just not this one in the period I'm doing. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I wasn't trying to change yours Nick, I posted for the decks, seems my thinking of dirt on the deck wasn't accurate... 

Oh they are painted...


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Good progress there Nick, it's starting to get that maritime look down nicley. 

Another technique to get that rust pattern is to stipple. Use a drybrush with paint loaded onto the bristle ends. Then apply at 90 degrees to the surface. For that large an area a 1" or 2" wide brush would work. Burnt Umber or Burnt Sienna gives that aged rusted metal patina.

Are you using acrylics or an exterior housepaint?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you for the tips, I still at it. The large brush technique I will next try. I am using BEHR premium Plus. they will custom mix small sample jars that are labeled Interior/Exterior and water base. I dilute them very thin. I will look for those colors or have a sample jar mixed, thank you again. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, I used the Burnt Sienna, first used a small brush to put it on then a dry brush to blend it in, I am now happy with the results, thank you.
I received the Bachmann ground throw. It has a seal to prevent the elements and insects from gaining access to the gears, a nice touch. I lowered the height to better fit the profile of the barge rails, also had to shorten the throw distance, it comes with that ability. Modified the indicator so it is low and added an arm like the pics of the one I am modeling. Now to the cars. Still having fun. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Started on the cars. first dropped one without trucks in the deep sink, it floated and grudgingly sank when I filled the hopper with water. Added the metal wheels and it did float, but much lower and a little disturbance of the water and as soon as water breached the side it went down. Adhered two layers of insulation foam into the car. After it cured it also went into the deep sink. Between the foam and the trapped air I was confident it would float, and it did. I will now add a layer of Black Diamond fish tank charcoal. Nine more cars to go. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

In the hope of making the coal load look more realistic I adhered scraps of foam to the flat top which will be tapered after it cures. Probably should have done this before putting the fillers in. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I sanded the sharp edges off the center scraps and adhered a layer of charcoal to the base. After it dried I poured off the still loose material. Then dampened the existing load and poured more charcoal into the hopper. After letting that dry, and pouring off the excess I sprayed the load with a very dilute solution of adhesive. Only 9 more to go. I am self debating that after I'm sure it's fully cured if I'll give it a quick spray of gloss black? LiG


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I am self debating that after I'm sure it's fully cured if I'll give it a quick spray of gloss black?


Well, if you had used real coal, you wouldn't have to worry!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

You may want to use a fine head brush and just stipple some gloss onto the loads. My experience is based more on anthracite from the Schuylkill County coal fields. I remember the washed anthracite having flat "facets" that would reflect light, rather than the entire load shining.

Just an observation.

Have fun,
David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, The charcoal looks like real coal, just may need to touch up a space or two that the white foam shows through. thanks for the tip I'll do that, much better than spraying the whole thing. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, rather than add paint that with my luck may not blend I took the patience and adhered a few grains of charcoal to the spots where the white showed through. Not saying I won't possibly do that in the future. The pic is in the day light where it is most likely to be seen. Along with that is the coal load from the tender of my AML switcher, it is a little dull from dust, mostly to compare the grain size. Included also is the load from the tender of my K4, While modifying it to be compatible with propane I broke the load and had to replace part of it using the charcoal. Nothing in any of these pics have been touched up with paint or any other medium. Enjoy, LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Nick;

Those coal loads are looking good.

I remembered that I still have an anthracite paperweight that I bought in Pottsville, PA over 48 years ago. I took a couple of photos of it so you can see what I mean about anthracite reflecting light. Today is fairly heavily overcast in southwest Virginia, and I did not use flash. You still should be able to see the reflective properties of this coal.









The first photo shows the front of the paperweight. It is polished to show a small mine "lokie." Notice how my hand and the lens of my camera are reflected on the surface of the lokie.









The second photo shows the natural back of the paperweight. It still shows a fair amount of reflection for an overcast day.

Well, keep up the good work on your barge, &

Have fun,
David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, thank you. That is one beautiful piece of coal, and I can see your reflection. As a child I lived near an Erie siding that fed the Forest Hill Coal company so I do remember the look, many homes were heated with coal. I also remember it felt very slippery in my hands. I remember driving through W Virginia and one of the roads I was on was cut through a mountain and I could see the layers of coal in the walls, very interesting. And I do enjoy the hobby and have a lot of fun with the projects. Life is Good


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

This part of the project is finished, now on to the tug. That is neither train or steam so the next post on this will be down the road when both are on the water. I enjoyed the build and hope you did also. I want to thank those that have offered advice on how to make it better. I thought just a coal train may be booring so I put my beer train on for a difference. Life is Good


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looks great, way to go.
Good luck digging the harbor for it!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, hopping to use one of the local small lakes in the area. Someone in a previous posted suggested I bring a fishing pole so if it gets stranded for some reason I have a way to get it back to shore, I will certainly do that. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Very Impressive, it's a great model.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you, your painting tip was one to the things that made this model what it is. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

This is a cool project. 
Some towboat references, for both prototype and RC



> Dick's Towboat Gallery
> Featuring Towboats on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers
> Richard E.(Dick) Dunbar, Proprietor
> http://www.towboatgallery.com/The_Towboat_Gallery.php


 But it has boats from lots of places, even some of my own pictures from here on the lower Missouri River. 


Next, a preserved website of a Missouri resident who passed away several years ago,


> Welcome To Old River Bill's R/C Towboats
> The Worlds Largest = Inland River Workboat Web!
> This is a tribute back-up image of Bill's website in case the KTIS hosted site ever goes away.
> This IS Where Scratch Building Modelers & Workboat Enthusiast Come = To Be Learned ..... "How To Churn Mudd & Chew Stumps!"
> ...


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Oh, and the barge needs a bobcat, float needs a feline, or at least a story about one;


https://flic.kr/p/7KdGTF


*



Stowaway bobcat found on Ohio Rive barge 

Click to expand...

*


> The Parkersburg Sentinel
> Herald-Dispatch.com
> Mar 7, 2010
> PARKERSBURG - The question of where a bobcat got aboard a barge being towed on the Ohio River may be answered.
> ...


http://www.herald-dispatch.com/news...cle_a552da29-7b30-5b56-bc85-0628f3062b57.html


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: very interesting articles. I would like to spend a lot of time viewing the gallery and other sites you mentioned. Not too late to add more applicable features. The BobCat article is very interesting, Thank You. LiG


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Nick just wanted to weigh in and thank you for sharing. It's looking great. I'm really enjoying watching it come together.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

No worries mate, glad to be of help. We all learn from each other.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Robert, I am happy you enjoyed watching it come together.
Scott, sharing is one of the things that makes forums a nice place to communicate. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The Final Touch: Don't think barges are named but this one is a tribute. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

That works.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> The Final Touch: Don't think barges are named but this one is a tribute. LiG


That looks great, Nick... Just great..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan, Sorry I forgot to mention your as always quality work. I followed the directions you included with the decals and had no problem at all, THANK YOU LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, lets see the tug. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thank you for your interest. I haven't started that yet, but have gathered everything I THINK I will need, minor enhancements will come as the build progresses. And now that cold weather has arrived I's time. LiG


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

very cool... the one bummer about large scale is that anything maritime related has to be gargantuan ! your gonna need a travel lift for that thing


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

domer94, I can lift and carry it, but it is very bulky. Lucky as I have a pick up truck. When I inquired in a couple of municipalities what they thought of me launching on the small water ways, understandable a bit skeptical and wanted to see it. Will check back with them in the spring when I hopefully have the tug built. LiG


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