# 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Due to the large number of photos and the consequent length of time it now takes to add a new reply to the old Builder's Log, I decided to rename it *Part 1* and start a new *Part 2* here. *Part 1* can be found *here*.

I have spent a couple of days designing the pilot and new pilot deck...










As with the cab, I started with Sonoma drawings, redrew them 1:1, scaled then down to 1/8th scale, then modified then to fit a standard gauge locomotive. It took a fair amount of fiddling to get then both dimensionally AND proportionally correct, but I think I'm happy with what I've come up with. I'll probably reduce the thickness of the deck to 3/8, but otherwise pretty much go with the plan shown here.

Haven't worked on her at all since I got back from Vegas other than to remove the old pilot deck for reference in creating this design. Maybe next week... it's COLD out in that garage! I need to yank the boiler again and make a new front boiler jacket section. The one on there now has holes drilled in it to mount the handrail stanchions. The new one won't as I'm going to do things differently.

I probably won't run her now until Spring anyway as I'm not a huge fan of cold weather. hehehe


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I ordered the material yesterday to make the pilot and pilot deck. I'm going to try using 1018 low carbon steel.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

How do you intend to proceed? Will you cut parts out to shape or bend angle pieces to suit? I look forward to seeing it in living color.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

My plan is to CNC mill the angles and center piece out of bar stock, and the deck out of plate. While I'm waiting for the material, I'll start writing the g-code. The inner bends where the angles meet the center piece present a small problem. Not sure how I'll handle that yet, though I have a couple of ideas.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

do you "Write" the g-code manually or use a CAD-CNC conversion program? I use Vectrix Cut-2D for my CNC work.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I write it manually. At least I have so far. X-Y-Z coordinates come directly off the AutoCAD drawing using the "ID" command. Early on in the NPC #21 project, I tried a few of the free or inexpensive CAM programs out there, but wasn't satisfied with the code they produced, so I started writing my own in Notepad. Been doing it ever since.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

That obvioulsy works, I am too lazy and the software I have does seem to work. I am impressed though that you enter all those numbers...I imagine you dry run the G-code program first though. I surely would have "some" mistakes.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Actually, I don't manually input the numbers. 

1 - I draw a polyline around the outline and offset it half the distance of the router bit I intend to use. This is the actual toolpath. 
2 - I do a series of ID commands on the polyline toolpath in the direction I want to tool to follow. 
3 - I bring up the AutoCAD text screen and copy all the ID commands, then paste them into a Notepad text file and save it. 
4 - I run a VB program I wrote a few years back that strips out all the extraneous stuff and just leaves the Xnn.nnnn Ynn.nnnn Znn.nnnn on each line and saves it to a different file. 
5 - I open that file in Notepad and add the "G" commands. 

Not as hard as it sounds.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I bet if you ever came to Vancouver Dwight, you could stop my VCR from flashing 12:00. Though I have only had my mill up and running for a month the one thing I have learned is that I can make small pieces of metal out of big pieces of metal. If it was CNC I am sure I wouldn’t be able to sweep up the bits fast enough. I did manage to finish a small project, a camera car that follows the curves, and at 10 cents an hour it’s worth about $100 grand.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I think we're all pretty good at that Dan, CNC or not. If you ain't making scrap, you ain't learning anything.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Finally got around to making the first piece of the pilot... the third angle up from the bottom on the engineer's side in the overall drawing above. 










All in all it came out okay for a first article. A few tool marks left to remove.










Only 13 angles left.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Making slow but steady progress...



















I changed my mind and decided to make it out of brass instead of steel. 360 brass is such a joy to work with and machine, and I can make one of these in far less time than it took to make one in steel. Besides, with the thin cross sections involved, I don't think steel would buy me much in the way of strength anyway. I may still make the bottom pair of angles and the central piece out of steel in case of a derailment or something. We'll see.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Hey Dwight! 
Looking good! 
Making extras of the bottom two pairs "in case of a derailment or something." will insure that it never happens!!! 

Larry


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Make the bottom ones from steel! the rest should be fine. they look fantastic!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Compared to me, you're rocket roger Dwight. I'm still working on simple projects I started years ago  Looking good.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,

That pilot is going to be beautiful. I would be concerned about derailments damaging it though. You KNOW they will happen, right?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The twelve brass angles are cut out. The vertical corners still need to be radiused and drilled for the rivets.









Here they are stacked similar to (but not the same as) how they will be assembled...










On to the steel bottom angles.


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,

The pilot seems to be coming along nicely.

If you don't mind me asking - was the prototype built like this with steel made specifically for the pilot? The reason I ask is because the model we are building the locomotives just used boiler tubes to make the pilot.


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, 

Beautiful! 

Alan


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Excellent Dwight! That pilot is going to look very nice.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

was the prototype built like this with steel made specifically for the pilot?Not exactly sure what you're asking, but the prototype for my locomotive was the Central Pacific #173. However, I decided some time ago that I wasn't going to build her as the CP #173 and instead was going to "Baldwin-ize" her. The cab is a copy of the cab used on Sonoma and Eureka, scaled up and re-proportioned for a standard gauge locomotive. The pilot is the same - a scaled up copy of the pilot used on Sonoma and Eureka. I have no doubt that Baldwin also equipped their standard gauge passenger locomotives with the same type, but I have no drawings for them, so I adapted a narrow gauge pilot instead.

This was a type of pilot used by Baldwin on locomotives intended for passenger service and sporting lots of polished brass and fancy Style 1 striping and lettering. It was made from bent angle iron. As I can't get angles in the sizes and flange thicknesses required, I'm milling my own.

Here's a photo of Sonoma's pilot...


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## ChaoticRambo (Nov 20, 2010)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,

I was just wondering if the real prototype had custom fit peaces for the pilot - which obviously it did from your photo.

The majority of later locomotives simply used old boiler tubes and crushed the ends to fit.

An example of this can be seen on the pilot for our locomotive:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f213/LordPyroFlame/Number 53/2Dec11006sm.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f213/LordPyroFlame/Number 53/2Dec11003sm.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f213/LordPyroFlame/Number 53/2Dec11001sm.jpg

The real locomotive:

http://trains.nute.ws/4-6-0/RGS20 _front.jpg

Thanks for the photo Dwight, I can't say I have ever seen a pilot like that before.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

From the photos I've seen, the type of pilot changed several times through the decades. A unique pilot was added to the John Bull (which originally had none)...










It would seem the vertical wooden stave pilot has been around since early on. The General had such a pilot...










Some of these had the front of the staves shaped to the triangular profile of the pilot while others were simply squared off. Others had rounded corners. Most had the staves tapering from the bottom towards the top.

Locomotives built around the time of the Civil War also commonly sported pilots made of horizontal bars. The Texas, also from The Great Locomotive Chase, had a fancy version of this type...










Most were simple unshaped horizontal rectangular bars riveted front and rear. The type used on the Texas may have been the direct forerunner to the type used on Sonoma and Eureka.

V&T's Dayton, a direct sister of CP #173, had the boiler tube pilot type that you mention...









Eventually pilots were castings instead of being individually built.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I assume Sanoma's pilot was made using angle bar bent to shape rather than milled from the solid. this is not easy to do accurately or neatly in scale. The brute force method of milling it out will make a beautiful job of it! 

Was the pilot on #18 Dayton actually solid rods> it looks to delicate to be boiler tubes. by the way I like yours better! than any of them, the curves make it something graceful and unique!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I assume Sonoma's pilot was made using angle bar bent to shape rather than milled from the solid. It is. If you look closely, you can see the the flange edges are rounded, a common feature of hot rolled structural shapes, and one I'm choosing to ignore. hehehe My flanges are also thicker than they should be if it was perfectly to scale (0.0417 instead of 0.0312), but as mine is a scaled up version in every way, the flange thickness scaled up along with everything else. It also adds a little strength to what would otherwise probably be more delicate.
the curves make it something graceful and unique!I agree completely.







That's the main reason I chose to try and duplicate it. The pilot, the unique pilot deck, the cab, the colors, the future Style 1 lettering and striping, and other future features will also make my locomotive unique from all the other CP 173's out there.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

CNC is terrific!! Once I'm sure I have the code written correctly, and with the insertion of judiciously placed pauses to allow me to stop the process automatically, I can go out after a certain interval, vacuum up the existing chips, add some cutting oil, and start it again while I sit out front on FB or MLS while the machine makes parts. Gotta love it!!! One of the best investments in money and learning curve I've ever made!!!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

CNC Milling a Pilot Angle from a piece of 1/2" x 1-1/4" rectangular steel bar. The first section shows milling the profile (the smoke is from burning cutting oil). The second section shows the transition to, and the beginning of, milling the lower flange thickness. The third section is an overall shot of my machine - a German-made Wabeco F1210E converted to CNC. The last section is the screen of the Mach 3 control software.



The overall height of the finished part is 0.417" and the final thickness of the lower flange is about0.080. Taking off 50 thousandths per pass means nine passes minimum at about 15 minutes per pass (one can only hog away steel so fast), so the total operation takes around 2-1/2 hours per part - at least on my benchtop machine.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The bottom two steel angles are made...


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I humble myself before thy great wisdom. PLUS,, thats cheating!!!!!!!!!!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

PLUS,, thats cheating!!!!!!!!!!Now Marty... jealously doth not becometh thee.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

All the main parts for the pilot proper are done.



















Next up - the pilot deck. Once that's done, assembly can begin.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow--that's really beautifully conceived and executed. Too many dimensions for me to imagine taking on!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks lownote.







Like everything that looks complex, it isn't nearly so once broken down into many simpler steps.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Got the new pilot deck hogged out last night...










Just need to drill and tap the holes and clean it up.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Made the last two pieces needed - the horizontal brackets that attach the two vertical rear support angles - and today began assembly by silver-brazing those pieces together...










Continued on and started assembling the pilot proper...










The bottom pair of angles are silver-brazed to the center piece and rear supports for strength. The set above is affixed with low-temp silver bearing solder, as will be the remaining sets as they add little to overall structural strength. Besides, the low-temp stuff is easier to work with and makes a cleaner job of it imo. 










A few more days ought to see this finished.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looking good.... Probably see ya within the next few weeks...got a grandson about to be born.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Congratulations Mikey!!







And as always, I'd love to see ya!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Great work Dwight. Nobody does nice jazz-up work like that.

Back on the cab for a moment. Where did you get those nice mini router bits?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Bob.









The router bits come in a set - *Amana Tool MRS-2000*. Did you get the email I sent regarding the hardwoods?


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Amana!! I knew you got he good ones.

Yes, got the note. Thanks.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Don't know how I was so careless, but in silver soldering the last three pilot angles in place yesterday morning, I inadvertently melted the edge of one of them. Must have been allowing a joint to cool and left the torch flaming on one spot without realizing it. So I had to remove the damaged one and and will make a replacement. Had just about finished too! Damn it, damn it, DAMN IT!!!!











Popped the damaged one off this morning. Here's a photo of it from the top. The bottom flange is partially melted through and the top flange substantially warped from the heat.










Luckily, I have some spare material. I'll make a replacement tonight if I have the time.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

There's an appropriate compound German word for it: 

watchwhereyousetyourfriggintorch .... the translation is ... well, you get the point... 

I think all of us have done this at one time or another... I usually catch something on fire... 

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I think the other compound German word is more apropos - "watchwhereyourfriggintorchispointing"...









This is also my first time using a new rosebud tip I just bought for my Little Torch mini oxy-acetylene rig.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,
Dennis advised me to buy an air-acetylen torch. It is almost as hot as the oxy-acetylen, but not quite as aggressive. We can still heat up a big part with the propane torch and then use the air acetylen for detail work. But I guess your CNC mill is happy to make one more part







. And if you are looking for a real long German compound word. How about this one: "Donaudampfschifffahrtskapitaenvertreterkajuetenschluessel".
Regards


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

"Donaudampfschifffahrtskapitaenvertreterkajuetenschluessel" I'd hazard a guess and roughly translate as "Dumb Sh!t-for-brains" -









I'm actually quite happy with the oxy-acetylene rig I have... small, precise (assuming adequate user control







) - a great little setup. I built #21 entirely with it, and much of that was thin 20 mil brass. As I've used oxy-acetylene since my early twenties, I'm pretty comfortable with it generally speaking. This was just a dumbass mistake on my part.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

You know Dwight, when I first started my Gene Allen ten-wheeler in 1980, I was told I should probably plan on building TWO locomotives! By the time most of us who build our own live steamers, we will have built TWO because of all the "oops" along the way! You can't believe how many "rejected parts" I have in my garage.........I probably have enough parts to partially build ANOTHER ten-wheeler!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Yeah Gary, it's happened to all of us. What's the saying? "If you aren't making scrap, you aren't learning anything." hehehe


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

If only that were true Dwight, I'd be a freaking master metal smith by now  Fortunately I have learned to live with my mistakes


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Make enough scrap and perhaps we will be someday.  Every time we screw something up we learn something about what NOT to do! hehehe 

Case in point... when milling the bottom two angles out of low carbon steel, I started with a new cutter. After the first angle was done and starting the second, I noticed the tool was getting a bluish tinge. "Uh-oh." I says to me-self... "It's getting too hot. I must be running it too fast." So what do I do? I slowed down the feed rate. WRONG!!! Turns out that was the WORST thing I could have done as the resultant chip thinning led to rubbing, increased friction, and even MORE heat generated. Ended up completely dulling the tool and it jammed itself to the work piece and broke. Once I got the spindle speed and feed rate set right, the cutter went right through the steel no problem. So I made some scrap and broke a tool, but I learned a great deal, not only about feed rates and spindle speeds and what rubbing and chip thinning are, but the technical aspects of WHY these speeds are not only very important, but often counter-intuitive as well. Great stuff!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Your are not a real craftsman until you have a drawer full of mistakes. The next trick is to recycle the mistakes.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

A friend sent me this link which has done me quite well. http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/CuttingSpeeds.php


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## digger (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

That reference table you linked, Don, is invaluable and is simiilar to one we used when I was working in an aerospace machining operation during the last 20 years of my career. The "Bible" we used was known as "MetCut". Materials and alloys behave differently from each other. The basic premise is that cutting metal releases heat when chips are produced. Many materials will "work harden" if the heat is not dissipated in the chips. The outcome is burned material and cutters, and very high cost scrap.

The formulas we used for calculating feeds and speeds for milling were based on the properties of the material and the cutters, ideal chip thickness , spindle speeds, and cutting tool diameter. The optimum was to achieve the recommended "feed per tooth". As Dwight noted, the relationship between cutters (diameter and number of teeth or flutes), material, and speeds is often counter-intuitive. You'd think that when tackling a tough alloy like inconel or stainless steel, you'd need to come at it slowly. In fact, you need to use a higher cutter speed and a more aggressive feed rate than what one might guess. Ideal cutting produces discolored chips, not tools or workpieces.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I ended up buying a program called *GWizard*. It calculates feed rates and spindle speeds based upon many more variables than is considered by the average formulas... cutter diameter, depth of cut, material being worked, chip thinning, tool deflection, lead angle, and a host of others too numerous to mention. Their web site also contains lots of technical info (which is where I learned about chip thickness/thinning, rubbing, etc.). A really slick little package that has already taught me a lot and really helped me improve.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Got the new replacement for the damaged angle made last night and soldered it on this morning, so with the exception of some cleanup and sanding (especially the pilot deck) and a few other odds and ends, it's basically done.














































It's far from perfect and I'm far from 100% happy with it... which means at some point I'm going to end up making another one... but it will do for now until I get some other stuff done.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

That sure is a beautiful engine!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thank you Amber. She's a strong runner too.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

That is certainly a jewel. I cannot see anything about the pilot/cowcatcher that one would not be at least 99% happy with it. I do however wonder if it is too delicate for its prototypical intended purpose. I suppose it might act a the "crumple zone" to protect the rest of the artistry in case of a headlong collision, but it is just too pretty to let that happen. 

I envy your workmanship.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thank you Semper. It's actually probably stouter than the prototype considering the substantially reduced mass of the loco - and therefore inertia and kinetic energy - compared to the full sized version and the thicker cross sections - especially of the steel bottom angles and of the center bar which is 50% thicker than scale. Those critical structural parts are also high-temp silver brazed together (50% silver content). 

The deck is also about 25% thicker than scale. In fact everything is thicker than scale since I proportionally "scaled up" a narrow gauge pilot. At any rate, I'll just have to be damned careful not to hit anything. hehehe And if at some point i do, I'm going to make another one anyway.


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I have to say that pilot is very good looking and you did a wonderful job of building it. I can not see what is wrong with it, so what is it that you want to change on it? Then whats next the, the link and pin draw bar? And then you get do do all of the lovely striping that these locos were know for.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Absolutely beautiful Dwight! That pilot adds a bit of elegance to an already elegant machine of the mid 1850's and 60's.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thank you gents! Andre - several things including some minor mistakes. The two biggest are (1) the center bar isn't exactly 90* and the bottom is slightly off center to the track center-line (that's what happens when you rely on slots and screws and don't check it with a square), and (2) it's about 1/4" to 3/8" higher off the rails than I would like (that's what happens when you don't make the pilot deck FIRST and measure DOWN). There are others, but those two are the most significant. Also, I shortened the pilot deck a little (about 1/8") to fit within the Y-axis limits of my bench top milling machine. The next one I'll have water-jet cut to the original size (or maybe even slightly longer) - probably out of steel this time since I won't have to mill it.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,
everything you built is absolutely beautiful. So when are going to modify/make new connecting rods







?

Regards


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Henner. Actually, new steel main and connecting rods are in the plans. I want to replace the current aluminum rods.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I finally have functioning cylinder drain cocks.







I bought a set from Reeves 2000 in the UK. As the drain cocks are 1/4-40 threads and my cylinders are tapped for 1/8 NPT, I had to make four adaptors from 7/16 brass hex stock...










Here's the two installed on the engineer's side...










I need to pick up some small rectangular brass bar and make the connecting bars. I also need to make two "pillow blocks" for the rod that connects both sides. When I go to Vegas later this month and yank the boiler, I can drill and tap the frame for the "pillow blocks" and make the rest of the parts so I can control them from the cab.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,
your adapters are actually quite helpful. I heard from several ride on owners that they broke off their drain cocks during derailments. As your adapters are much sturdier than the cocks, the cocks will break first and worst case you have to make a new adapter if you don't get the pieces out.


Regards


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, 
You be the man for figuaring this one out. 
Good job.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Found some small rectangular bar in a drawer so I made the connecting bar for each side. Amazing what you can find floating around in drawers.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I had a new pilot deck made. I felt the one I made from brass was too short due to Y-Axis limitations of my milling machine. It put the rear of the pilot too close to the front pilot wheels. Do I drew one up that was about 5/8" longer and had it water jet cut from 1/2" steel plate...









It took me a couple of hours to draw file the edges to clean them up as water jet cutting doesn't leave a nice smooth edge like a milling machine. Not too bad though and easy enough to clean up with a little bit of time..









Tomorrow I'm taking the deck down to a local shop to have the top and bottom surface ground. I'll drop it off in the morning and pick it up early in the afternoon. Then I'll be good to go.

Tonight I made the square nuts, washers, and rods to add the rear pilot bracing...










Here they are installed on one side...










I think the square nuts really add a prototypical touch.


















Onward and upward. Yesterday I partly made the pillow blocks that will support the cross rod that will operate the cylinder cocks. Still need to drill the mounting holes in them, and in the frame to mount them. Then I can cut the control rod to length and make the connecting and control levers.


----------



## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looks real good. 

Good job for a old man like you......LOL


----------



## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I got to watch him make those pillow blocks...very cool....then we got into the coffee, tiquaca, and bailey. Great evening.....


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I got to watch him make those pillow blocks...very cool....then we got into the coffee, Tuaca, and Bailey's. Great evening.....


----------



## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The square nuts are the bees nees.  Could you show us how you made them, or are they commercial? Thanks, 

Jason


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

"It took me a couple of hours to draw file the edges to clean them up" 

WHAT no power..........working like me now? 

Looking REAL good Dwight! 
Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

WHAT no power..........working like me now? Believe me Larry, if I could have figured out how to use a power tool here, I would have.







Maybe an oscillating drum sander with a really fine abrasive drum would have worked, but I don't own one.








The square nuts are the bees nees.  Could you show us how you made them, or are they commercial? Thanks,
Actually, they are really easy. Here's a photo of the setup I used on my Sherline lathe...









I put a piece of 3/16" square stock in the self-centering 4-jaw chuck (already replaced with the 3-jaw in this photo), then drilled it and tapped it for, in my case, 5-40 threads. I went deep enough so I would only have to do this once for all four nuts. I then faced it off with the rear-mounted parting tool, noting the Z-Axis setting on the lead screw as I did so. I chamfered the leading edge of the threaded hole with the countersink/center drill bit in the tailstock chuck. Chamfering the front edge of the nut was done with the front-mounted pointed tool and briefly hit with a jewelers file. Then index in to the desired nut thickness (allowing for the thickness of the parting tool itself) and part off the nut. Repeat.

When all four nuts were done, I turned them around and chamfered the leading edge of the threads on the back the same way I did the front. Done.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 06 Apr 2012 07:29 AM 


WHAT no power..........working like me now? Believe me Larry, if I could have figured out how to use a power tool here, I would have.







Maybe an oscillating drum sander with a really fine abrasive drum would have worked, but I don't own one.








The square nuts are the bees nees.  Could you show us how you made them, or are they commercial? Thanks,
Actually, they are really easy. Here's a photo of the setup I used on my Sherline lathe... 











I put a piece of 3/16" square stock in the self-centering 4-jaw chuck (already replaced with the 3-jaw in this photo), then drilled it and tapped it for, in my case, 5-40 threads. I went deep enough so I would only have to do this once for all four nuts. I then faced it off with the rear-mounted parting tool, noting the Z-Axis setting on the lead screw as I did so. I chamfered the leading edge of the threaded hole with the countersink/center drill bit in the tailstock chuck. Chamfering the front edge of the nut was done with the front-mounted pointed tool and briefly hit with a jewelers file. Then index in to the desired nut thickness (allowing for the thickness of the parting tool itself) and part off the nut. Repeat.

When all four nuts were done, I turned them around and chamfered the leading edge of the threads on the back the same way I did the front. Done.

NOW you know why die sinkers and tool makers have such strong wrists!


----------



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

In one of the links from this forum (which one?) i saw that someone was machining square stock using a "split collet" held in a 3 jaw chuck. basically it is a piece of pipe with the hole diameter the same as the diagonal dimension from corner to corner of the square stock. the pipe has a slot cut in it so it can be squeezed by the 3-jaw chuck to clamp the stock. very simple and clever.


----------



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Oops...thought I hadnt really hit the submit button.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Is the countersink/center tool just 2 flutes? 

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

NOW you know why die sinkers and tool makers have such strong wrists!I thought it was because you were all wankers. >


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

In one of the links from this forum (which one?) i saw that someone was machining square stock using a "split collet" held in a 3 jaw chuck. basically it is a piece of pipe with the hole diameter the same as the diagonal dimension from corner to corner of the square stock. the pipe has a slot cut in it so it can be squeezed by the 3-jaw chuck to clamp the stock. very simple and clever.Yeah, that would work. I agree - very clever. I already had the 4-jaw... I bought it while building #21. I needed it for some reason which escapes me now. Comes in handy every now and again though. You can never have too many tools or attachments. hehehe 
Is the countersink/center tool just 2 flutes?Center DRILL... the one I used is, yes. Why?


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 06 Apr 2012 10:43 AM 
NOW you know why die sinkers and tool makers have such strong wrists!I thought it was because you were all wankers. > 


NOT goin' THERE!









After I posted, I knew this was going in all kinds of places.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I was just curious if 2 flutes would give a smooth countersink, but I guess I'm thinking of the 4 flute ones I use on a drill press... 2 flutes seems to jump around too much... 

Greg


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Not sure what kind of bit you mean (a normal countersink bit?) but countersink/center drill bits are constructed differently...










and are designed to accurately locate holes for subsequent drilling. The shaft is the full diameter of the body. Consequently they are quite stable and not subject to wobble or chatter. Generally speaking, a lathe or milling machine is also far more rigid than a drill press.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Dwight, that's just the tool I remember using for center drilling, but never thought to use it for a countersink... yeah, won't work in a drill press I believe, unless everything is clamped down. 

uhh... it's evening, we were promised pictures... do I have to call the authorities? 

;-) 

Greg


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Hmmm, after reading about the making of the square nuts, I'm thinking that I should buy a 4 jaw lathe chuck instead of a 3 jaw chuck. If a person is only going to have 1 chuck, it might make more sense to have a 4 jaw chuck, for the things that you can do with it. From what I was reading about lathe chucks, they said that more jaws is better, especially when working with thin tubing. The 6 jaw chuck will hold the tubing better without crushing it. Of course, the 6 jaw wouldn't do any better at holding square stock than a 3 jaw chuck would.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

uhh... it's evening, we were promised pictures... do I have to call the authorities?I got hung up milling a shallow slot (about 0.055 deep x 9/16 wide) in the underside of the deck to compensate for a small discrepancy in the frame members that support the deck. It's been slightly crooked since I got it - not much... only about 0.055"... but enough where it's noticeable, especially in photos or when viewing the loco directly head on. So I still need to match drill the deck with the frame and drill and tap two more holes to mount the pilot to the deck. Should be done tomorrow morning. 
it might make more sense to have a 4 jaw chuck, Actually, I turn hex stock (which uses the 3-jaw) far more often than square stock. I rarely make square nuts, but I make hex nuts and hex steam fittings much more frequently. I'd recommend a 3-jaw first. If I'm not mistaken, a 3-jaw will also more precisely center round stock than a self-centering 4-jaw. Very precise centering requires an independent 4-jaw and a dial indicator.


Generally speaking, you'll use the 3-jaw for 95+% of the work you do. There's a reason why they are supplied as the default chuck when you buy a lathe, a drill press, a drill chuck, an electric drill motor, etc. - they are the best overall chuck for the widest range of applications. 

You can always make a split collet for chucking square stock in the 3-jaw as Eric mentioned previously - on those rare occasions when you may need to. Just MHO.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Okay Greg, as promised, photos of the new completed pilot deck...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Ok, called the authorities and told them to stand down! ;-) It was close ha ha! 

Looks perfect, and I see it is mounted. Was that area typically left clear, or did the prototype have some stuff on that nice big space? 

I'd be interested in seeing the raw edge from the water jet, you described something that almost looked like cracks. 

It's sure looking pretty finished, although I know you have lots of ideas on more stuff to do! 

Regards, Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Greg. Yeah, it's all mounted down now. Next I need to make the pilot braces (not sure what they're called) - the rods that go from the smokebox sides to the pilot deck. 

As to whether or not anything was carried there probably depends upon the railroad. Most of the 4-4-0's of the era (post Civil War) that I've seen photos of had the area relatively clear - probably the same pride of ownership and crew that made them polish the brass and wipe down the Russian iron boiler jacket. On later locos, or on logging lines, it was used to carry stuff. At least a couple of the Argent Lumber Co's locos had large tool boxes there as did D&RGW's C-21 #361, but these locos are from a much later era when polished brass and Russian iron were painted over with black - or never installed in the first place. 

Too late to see the cracks... they've already been filed away.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

As to whether or not anything was carried there probably depends upon the railroad.
Just came across *this photo *on *SPCRR.org* of SPC #13 sporting a toolbox on her pilot deck. #13 was a Consolidation very similar to an early D&RGW C-16. The photo caption says 1880, much earlier than the C-21. Hard to tell from the B&W photo, but it sure looks like this was prior to the "all black" era.

Just as an aside, I have to say, *I LOVE the Internet!!!* The ability to search out (or in this case, stumble upon) answers to our questions (railroad history and otherwise) is truly a marvel!


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,

I am betting that that box was not a "tool" box but a box that they could put spare links and pins in. I have a feeling that those thing got lost or misplaced a whole bunch. The other thing is that when you couple two cars together one set of cars may not have had a link or pins in the respective couplers and the next set may have had links and pins in both couplers so you would need a place to put the extras and to grab ones when you needed them. And putting the box on the pilot deck would make sense as you would not have to climb up to get them or place them in the box. As easily as it would be to remove them I would not doubt that some railroads had a rule that if you dropped a car on a siding that the crew was responsible to remove the links and pins so that they did not get stolen.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

She sure looking grrrrrrrrrrreat Diwight. Coming a long ways sense seeing it up here at the Sacramento Steam up a few yr's ago on a rack in the lobby. Yup.. it was missing a few thing then, but very interesting to watch this post.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I am betting that that box was not a "tool" box but a box that they could put spare links and pins in.You may very well be right Andre, and what you say makes sense. Even though the pilot is permanently equipped with its own link, pins and links removed from the car being coupled to would have to be stashed someplace. I've never heard of something called a "link and pin box" though.









Thanks Noel. She has come a long way since the "Thomas the Tank Engine" powder blue boiler jacket.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow very sweet job Dwight!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Yup, I'd second those sentiments! D*mn Dwight!! You really are putting together a museum quality live steamer there!


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Andre is probably right. Where else are going to keep the pins and maybe a few tools.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I spent the weekend doing mostly odds and ends. I fixed the bypass tender return line that broke when I was in Boulder City last December, Actually I just made an all new one, modifying it slightly to (hopefully) eliminate future breakage. I also got my tender brakes linkage reassembled properly and adjusted once again. I also mounted the seat I made earlier in the week.










I now have a padded place to park my fat behind when riding.







You can also see the bypass return peeking out of the slot (the curved pipe).

I also started making the parts for the cylinder cock linkage, finishing the pillow blocks and making the control shaft...










I approximately sized the pillow blocks off a drawing from Carolwood, but after test fitting, I found them to be too short. They would have interfered with the crossheads, so I made the 1/4" thick spacers shown below the pillow blocks.










Next comes the drain cock operating arms and the control arm that will link everything to the cab.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I pretty much finished up the drain cocks today.









Here are the parts I made for the linkage...










I made new taller pillow blocks as trying to align things with the spacers was a real PITA. At top is the actuating shaft, left and right are the control arms, and center is the actuating arm that will connect the shaft to the cab.

Here's what I rigged up to be able to remove the pilot truck and get to the frame...










The hoist is suspended from the garage rafters to hold up the front of the loco. Then I rolled the stand back until the pilot truck was hanging free and removed it. Clamps on both sides of both of the stands back wheels prevented the cart from going anywhere...










and other clamps prevented the loco from rolling on the stand.

Once the pilot truck was out of the way, I located the shaft and pillow blocks, clamped them, and drilled and tapped the frame, then mounted the shaft.










I kept the drain cocks aligned in their open position by putting drill bits into them...










I then mounted the control anda ctuating arms and made new connecting links to hook everything together. Here they are closed...










And open.










A quick video of their operation...



All that remains now is to make a quadrant for the cab (I have something similar to Accucraft's reversing quadrant in mind) and a connecting rod.


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Working on these larger engines is much different then the smaller ones I imagine.







I really like how everything turned out, did you follow the prototype? 

Jason 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(data:text/css,);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I really like how everything turned out, did you follow the prototype?Thank you. Referring to the drain cocks? In a manner of speaking I did. The setup gererally follows prototype practice within the limits of functionality, but it's my own design.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Very nice Dwight!!!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Got into Vegas yesterday evening. Jesse and I started tearing my locomotive down this morning. By the time we left this evening, it was all disassembled, the appropriate parts sand-blasted, and all the painting done except the whitewalls.  We'll do those tomorrow morning and then I'll start the new front section for the boiler jacket. Maybe by tomorrow evening we'll have her mostly back together (we're letting the paint dry overnight). 
It *ALREADY* looks 500% better to my eye.







Photos soon.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 08 May 2012 09:29 PM 
Got into Vegas yesterday evening. Jesse and I started tearing my locomotive down this morning. By the time we left this evening, it was all disassembled, the appropriate parts sand-blasted, and all the painting done except the whitewalls.  We'll do those tomorrow morning and then I'll start the new front section for the boiler jacket. Maybe by tomorrow evening we'll have her mostly back together (we're letting the paint dry overnight). 
It *ALREADY* looks 500% better to my eye.







Photos soon.

Come out to Boulder City Thursday. A pick and shovel awaits







Just kidding!!

Bob


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Bob, but my back is already killin' me!! Bending over a locomotive chassis for two days straight will do that to ya. hehehe
Got her mostly reassembled today. A few more things to do tomorrow and then we'll take her out to the track and get some photos.







*GOD* she looks great!!!!!!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 09 May 2012 10:37 PM 
Thanks Bob, but my back is already killin' me!! Bending over a locomotive chassis for two days straight will do that to ya. hehehe
Got her mostly reassembled today. A few more things to do tomorrow and then we'll take her out to the track and get some photos.







*GOD* she looks great!!!!!!










The suspense is killing us!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

"The suspense is killing us!"

As Carly Simon sings *"**An-ti-ci-pa-a-tion"* in the background. . .















Yeah, me too!

Best,
David Meashey


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Was down at the shop today meet Dwight and take a look at the CP. It's gorgeous. No words can describe. Dwight and Jesse had it all apart for paint and it's stunning. The paint turned out so nice, I thought it was powder coat at first. The cab is really sweet. The varnish walnut is the cat's meow. Whatever pictures Dwight posts will do no justice.

There will be some "girl watching" at GGLS soon.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Bob! Was great to see you as always. Unfortunately I was fighting the damn mechanical lubricator. 

Got her all back together this evening after hitting a couple of temporary snags. We started on the handrails but will have to finish tomorrow. We started at six and stayed until around nine. We're both beat. Worth it though.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

We started at six and stayed until around nine. ??? 

Only 3 hours? Lightweight! 

hahahahha 

(yes, I know 6am and 9pm) 

Anxiously awaiting pix. 

Greg


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 11 May 2012 07:30 AM 
We started at six and stayed until around nine. ??? 

Only 3 hours? Lightweight! 

hahahahha 

(yes, I know 6am and 9pm) 

Anxiously awaiting pix. 

Greg 
Drop and give Dwight 20 young man.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Basically finished everything I'd wanted to do today, so we loaded her up and took her to the track in Boulder City. So, without further adieu, here are the first photos after her major backshopping...





































An engineer's view...



















Proud Papa...



























































































Taking on water...





































And a short video clip...



We got a lot more video, but I'm just to beat to mess with it tonight,


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,
Beautiful, just *BEAUTIFUL*!!!

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## scubaroo (Mar 19, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Congratulations Dwight. 
Looks incredible!!! 
Will you be bringing her to the Summer Steamup so we can see her up close? 

Craig


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Absolutely gorgeous locomotive! Almost too pretty to run.









You SHOULD be a very proud Papa.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, 

WOW, a super job, love the boiler wraper. Shes gorgeous, congrats. 

Chuck


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

the proud papa 
very nice. 
what type of rivets did you use on the tender?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks guys!! I think she's gorgeous too!







The Wine cylinders and frame and the whitewalls REALLY set her off!!









Here's how far we took her down...




















Here we have the running gear masked off and ready for paint...










And here are a few photos Jesse took yesterday and emailed to me...














































We're taking her back out to the track this morning.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Will you be bringing her to the Summer Steamup so we can see her up close?Caig - yeah, I plan to.what type of rivets did you use on the tender?Marty - the tender tank is a one-piece resin casting with the rivets cast in. The small rivets in the smokebox, stack, and other places are either aluminum or copper.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow, it is a beaut! 

Sounds like she runs a fine as she looks! 

Congrats Dwight on a project that must be very pleasing to you after all your effort. 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

She looks great, Dwight. Now, you gotta bring her to Colorado, so I can give her a proper weathering job.  

Later, 

K


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## digger (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Sacrilege! No self-respecting engineman from that era would ever allow his steed to get grungy!


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow!! Incredibly awesome Dwight. Looking at the photos that don't have a size comparison make the engine look like a full sized locomotive. That's a definite sign that you have all the parts to the right scale, very impressive job. And it works too!









Jason


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Beautiful, Dwight! Fantastic workmanship!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Sacrilege! No self-respecting engineman from that era would ever allow his steed to get grungy!Ditto!! *Blasphemer!! Stone him!!







* 
Thanks for all the nice comments Gents. Needless to say I'm a happy camper!!! Went back out today and had a valve timing issue, so we took her back to the shop and Jesse retimed the valves while I set up his new computer.







I am nowqcompletely exhausted after all this plus two days out in the dessert sun - but it was worth every minute!! hehehe Heading for home tomorrow morning.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Just got in from Vegas a little while ago... very tired but very happy!! When we took her apart and reassembled her, the valve timing shifted somewhat on the fireman's side. We didn't notice all that much on Friday because we were burning coal that's over 100 years old. She was probably sucking water as well allowing the valve to lift and shift even further. We noticed it on Saturday when we were burning better coal. Still, on Friday with bad coal and bad valve timing, that little mutha pulled over 800 lbs up a sustained 3-3.5% grade!!! She was working her little heart out, but she made it!! "I think I can... I think I can... I think I can!!" hehehe


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

So now that this one is done, what's next? A sister locomotive? Or some cars to start generating some revenue for the line.  

Craig


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Still LOTS to do before she's anywhere finished... gotta make the handrail stanchions and mount the handrails, make polished brass finials for the sand dome and bell, make a new whistle (the current one is a commercial "peeper"), make new polished brass crosshead pumps, make the link for the pilot coupler, make toolboxes for the tender, and of course... lettering and striping. It'll be a while before I even consider anything else.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The coal you were using was over 100 years old, I would think so, coal was formed during the Carboniferous period approximately 300 million years ago.


----------



## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

WOW....WOW....WOW !!!


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## norman (Jan 6, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Hi Dwight: 

I really enjoyed the video postings. 

Maybe for next sesason you could build a E&P styled stack for a second stack for the loco to switch as you pleased ! 


Norman


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The coal you were using was over 100 years old, I would think so, coal was formed during the Carboniferous period approximately 300 million years ago.Ahhhhhh, funny man Dan! hehehe Trouble is, I've been told that when it sets in open air, it tends to lose its volatiles over time... my guess would be out gassing or somesuch. At any rate, it burned very fast, requiring constant stoking, and it was hard to keep a good fire going, so steam pressure would drop - and always at the worst times.







Maybe for next sesason you could build a E&P styled stack for a second stack for the loco to switch as you pleased !Thanks Norman. Yeah, a Radley-Hunter stack would look good on her - or the kind of stack the V&T Tahoe had - similar looking but with an open straight top and a big screen.

I just LOVE the photo where she's sitting at the water tower billowing smoke.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Was just looking back through my Builder's Log... here's where she stood last year around this time.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Here's some video we took on Friday during her first run after reassembly at the "Friends of the Nevada Southern Live Steamers" track in Boulder City (looks better if watched on Youtube). As I said before, one of her valves slipped a little during disassembly/reassembly, so her timing is a little off here. That's been fixed now.



BTW, when shown pulling the riding cars near the﻿ end, she was pulling over 800 lbs up a sustained 3% - 3.5% grade.


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Beautiful Beautiful


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight; 

Thanks for the video. Your locomotive is a true beauty. The bark of her exhaust brought back fond memories of Tink, my pet Crown Metal Products 4-4-0 from the Dry Gulch Railroad at Hershey Park in the late 1960s. 

Best Wishes, 
David Meashey


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Magnificent, Dwight.... Just magnificent. An absolute beauty....


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks again guys.


----------



## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Super-sweet, Dwight. Nice finish and color choices too.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, that is so cool I can hardly stand it!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Ray - thanks. The colors are pretty much Baldwin pre-1875 Wine. David Fletcher deserves all the credit there.







His work and posts made me aware of it in the first place, and he was my color consultant as to what Baldwin Wine actually looked like.

Thanks Winn.


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

After I got home from Vegas, I wanted to take my locomotive to GGLS the following Sunday as I needed to get my annual boiler test and get it re-certified. As this is the first time she'd be up there since before I had the cab on her (let alone the pilot), I wanted her to look her best, so I washed her, got the grease and NV dust off, etc. I was just about to polich the brass when I noticed what looked like a calcium deposit left from a dried drip running down from under the steam dome, so I took a little CLR on a rag to see if it would come off. BIG MISTAKE!!![/b] The CLR turned the bluing black.









So I spend a couple of days taking things apart again, getting the rear section of the boiler jacket off, making a new one, and putting things back together again.









Here's the old messed up section...










Ain't that enough to make a grown man cry?!?!?!?









So anyway, to get it off, I had to remove the turret and the top site glass fitting. After getting the new jacket section installed and that stuff reconnected, the last thing to put back on was the pressure gauge....

and the damn banjo bolt broke off.









Luckily I was able to get the section out of the threaded hole without too much trouble, but now I had to make another one of the banjo bolts as well. That's a 10-32 thread btw.










So here it is a week later, and I'm back to where I was two weeks ago.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Yeah, CLR is nasty stuff, if I remember more than one acid in it. 

Interesting about the banjo bolt, but in the picture you show, lots of sharp edges, just perfect for "stress risers" (where stuff cracks) 

Might want to relieve the sharp edges. 

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Yeah, that was taken before I cleaned it up. Photos are often the best way to see where things stand and what remains to be done/corrected. The camera misses very little. 

I donno... I kinda figured CLR was fairly benign. After all, they advertise that one can clean their coffee pot with it. If I'd have had any sense I'd have tested it on a piece of scrap first. Live and learn.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I think that the Bluing is pretty delicate too.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dang....that engine can really move!!!! I was gonna say it hauled ass...but I'd be being redundant. Great video.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I was gonna say it hauled ass...but I'd be being redundant. LOL! Powerful too. They guy riding on the back car told me he was 275 lbs all by himself. hehehe


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Sorry to hear about the jacket Dwight. Maybe you could protect the bluing with something? I don't know how it would handle the heat but you might be able to use some kind of wax, like micro-crystalline or even auto wax? 

Jason


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I usually make such things as banjo bolts from brass but perhaps bronze would be better! People recommend it as the only proper material for boiler bushings...probably shouldn't stop with the bushings.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I finally got the front two handrail stanchions turned, polished, and mounted this weekend after determining the length they needed to be from the tangent of the handrail to the base of the stanchion against the smokebox.



















I made a jig out of red oak to ensure the hole in the smokebox was properly located and perpendicular to the tangent of the smokebox at that point. If it were drilled crooked, the stanchion would also be crooked and it would throw everything off. I also bought a special 6" long clearance drill for a 4-40 screw to use with the jig. There's a vertical hole that runs from the center of the handrail notch down to the center of the circular cutout.



















I still need to establish the length of the back two stanchions and make and mount those, and I need to mount the cab brackets (I already made those) and thread the handrails themselves to thread into those brackets. A jam nut inside the cab will secure them in place. Before I can mount them I need to pick up some 00-90 brass flathead screws from the Train Shop tomorrow and drill and c'sink three holes in each bracket. Hopefully my smallest center drill will reach in there and do the c'sink job. If not, I'll need to use round or fillister head screws.

Once I get this done, I want to make some polished brass finials for the sand dome and bell, and I still need to make the cab and tender grabirons and the tender-mounted toolboxes. Maybe after that I'll be ready to start lettering and striping her.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Hey, that boiler jacket looks like new! 

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Hey, that boiler jacket looks like new! Hardy-har-har-har!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Got the handrails finished up today, so that's one more thing less to do.


These are the brackets I made to secure the handrails to the cab. They are based upon Sonoma's and the handrails thread into them...









A couple of overall shots...




















One of the front stanchions...










And one of the rear ones...










And the rear brackets mounted to the cab with 00-90 flatheads...










Hopefully tomorrow I can get the sand dome and bell finials turned, polished, and installed before the GGLS Spring Meet this weekend.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight,
She looks good. But I have one question that's been bugging me for a while. How come you have been using flat head screws to attach various parts such as the handrail brackets to the cab? Wouldn't it look better to use a hexhead screw? Since you've done all of this wonderful work it seems that going around and replacing all the flat head screws with hexheads would make this locomotive even sharper. Just wondering? 

Craig


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Craig.
How come you have been using flat head screws to attach various parts such as the handrail brackets to the cab?'Cause that's what the prototype used - in their case, flathead wood screws. Mine are necessarily somewhat oversized - couldn't locate anything smaller than 00-90's.







I also couldn't find any 00 wood screws, so mine are through bolts with washers and nuts on the backside.

As for using flatheads to "attach various parts" I believe this is the first time I've used them anywhere. Most of my hardware is hex head unless it's in a place where rivets were used by the prototype (like the smokebox front and the stack for example) in which case I use roundheads of similar size.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Got the sand dome finial made, polished, and installed this evening... the last little doodad before her "grand debut" at the GGLS Spring Meet tomorrow.


















Also pressurized the boiler with compressed air to check the pressure gauge... worked fine. Wanted to make sure the new banjo bolt I made passed gas. hehehe


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 08 Jun 2012 08:11 AM 
Thanks Craig.
How come you have been using flat head screws to attach various parts such as the handrail brackets to the cab?'Cause that's what the prototype used - in their case, flathead wood screws. Mine are necessarily somewhat oversized - couldn't locate anything smaller than 00-90's.







I also couldn't find any 00 wood screws, so mine are through bolts with washers and nuts on the backside.

As for using flatheads to "attach various parts" I believe this is the first time I've used them anywhere. Most of my hardware is hex head unless it's in a place where rivets were used by the prototype (like the smokebox front and the stack for example) in which case I use roundheads of similar size.

Thanks Dwight for the explanation. I didn't think something like that would get missed by you!







I wonder why the prototype used flat head screws in the first place?
This was the image that caught my eye the first time with the philips head screw above the last wheel. 











Craig


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

That screw actually connects the reach rod to the Johnson Bar. I used it because it was brass and the only 8-32 hex heads I had were stainless. But you're right - I should buy some brass hex head 8-32's and replace it. One hates to pay for a pack of 100 for one frakkin' screw. hehehe You wouldn't believe how many boxes of screws I have now, in various sizes, lengths, and head configurations - some brass, some stainless, and some steel black oxide. I could almost start a hardware store.









If you were standing next to the loco looking at it, you probably wouldn't even notice, but the camera is darned good at picking everything out.







Thanks for planting a seed. It's gonna bug me now.









Seriously, I appreciate the critical eye. I have that photo as my cell phone wallpaper and never even noticed it. I _will _[/b] fix it - even if I have to make one!!!


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 08 Jun 2012 09:02 PM 
That screw actually connects the reach rod to the Johnson Bar. I used it because it was brass and the only 8-32 hex heads I had were stainless. But you're right - I should buy some brass hex head 8-32's and replace it. One hates to pay for a pack of 100 for one frakkin' screw. hehehe You wouldn't believe how many boxes of screws I have now, in various sizes, lengths, and head configurations - some brass, some stainless, and some steel black oxide. I could almost start a hardware store.









If you were standing next to the loco looking at it, you probably wouldn't even notice, but the camera is darned good at picking everything out.







Thanks for planting a seed. It's gonna bug me now.









Seriously, I appreciate the critical eye. I have that photo as my cell phone wallpaper and never even noticed it. I _will _[/b] fix it - even if I have to make one!!!









Sorry, I didn't mean to make more work for you!







This locomotive will never get done! Funny that you never noticed that, it was the first thing that I saw when you posted that picture.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

This locomotive will never get done! Hopefully.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

While we're on the subject of minor nit-picky critiques, she could use another boiler band on the first course, between the bell and the sand dome. Just a thought. She's a truly stunning-looking engine either way though.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Uh Sir?... I believe there's a missing Rivet.... 
I wasn't going to mention it... but you took the wrong headed screws so well....


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

While we're on the subject of minor nit-picky critiques, she could use another boiler band on the first course, between the bell and the sand dome. Just a thought. She's a truly stunning-looking engine either way though.Good point. Never noticed that before either.







Thanks Richard! I'll add it to my "to do" list of 1001 things still left. hehehe As this is an easy one, it'll move towards the front.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Have a great run today, Dwight...... She's a knock-out.....









Yes, you do need to change the screw to a slotted flat head..... And yes, you certainly could make one....


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Re: brass hex bolts--Ken at Cole's sells his by the dozen. Easier on the budget. And, his are machined from bar, not cold-headed. 

Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Larry. However, when you come right down to it, bolts aren't that hard to make.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Made and installed three more little cosmetic details last night...

a polished brass finial for the bell that matches the one on the sand dome...










and two polished brass flag holders for the pilot deck.



















This weekend I plan to make the additional boiler band Richard suggested, and to get started on the pilot deck braces.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looks like she is getting "dolled up" for her Fourth of July parade.









Looking great! The shiny goodies always make the final statement.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looks like she is getting "dolled up" for her Fourth of July parade.Always happy to proudly fly the Star Spangled Banner!!!








Looking great! The shiny goodies always make the final statement.Thanks Gary - and in some ways the little "finishing touches" are also the most fun to make.







The white pilot deck braces will add a splash of color and contrast, and when I get the brass and red number board and brass and black builder's plates I ordered - look out!!! hehehe 
Several times I've searched the web for 1/4 x 1/8 brass half round to edge the running boards, but could never find anyone who shipped it straight (it was always shipped in rolls). Yesterday I discovered that PM Research sells it, so I ordered some. Should have it next week. It's gonna take a bit of work to figure out how to mount it (I have what I think is a good idea, but I'm going to have to try some tests on scrap first). Once done though, polished brass half round edging the entire length of the running boards is going to be a good chunk of icing on the cake.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

"Several times I've searched the web for 1/4 x 1/8 brass half round to edge the running boards, but could never find anyone who shipped it straight (it was always shipped in rolls). Yesterday I discovered that PM Research sells it, so I ordered some. Should have it next week. It's gonna take a bit of work to figure out how to mount it (I have what I think is a good idea, but I'm going to have to try some tests on scrap first). Once done though, polished brass half round edging the entire length of the running boards is going to be a good chunk of icing on the cake.







" 
Dwight.

I used 3/16 X .09 half round brass for the beading around the top of my Allen ten-wheeler tender tank. It was delivered in a tube, NOT rolled. This has been quite a few years ago, but I believe I bought it from McMaster-Carr.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Doesn't look like McMaster's has brass half rounds anymore Gary... only stainless steel and acrylic. At least that's all I can find on their site.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 22 Jun 2012 03:55 PM 
Doesn't look like McMaster's has brass half rounds anymore Gary... only stainless steel and acrylic. At least that's all I can find on their site. 
Bummer! Try this link.

http://www.lewisbrass.com/newCatalog/NewCat.pdf

These guys are based in New York, but have warehouses in New Jersey AND LOS ANGELES!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Gary, but like I said, I already found and ordered some.  PM Research is a good outfit. That's where I got my brass scale pipe, fittings, and globe valves. They're also where I got some of the small fittings I used on #21.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Bitter Creek Western (Arroyo Grande) is having a run 5-8 July. I hear it's a beautiful track. Might be time to show off.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

If I had the vacation time this coming week, I'd go to the Train Mountain Triennial - not to show off but just to GO!!!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Jesse came in from Vegas yesterday afternoon, and we got the sticking throttle fixed (or rather, he did - I just watched and learned). Then this morning we took his loco and my loco up to GGLS. Despite it being REALLY foggy up there, we both had several good multi-lap runs.










All in all, a very rewarding weekend!


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Good to hear you now have a working throttle, and that you and Jesse had a good time at GGLS too.

Did Jesse give you any insight into his thinking on just what caused the damage to the valve, did he make any specific changes to the way in which the new valve works, and prevent the damage from reoccurring?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

After polishing up the plunger, the grooving at the rear looks like an original "slight oops" that's always been there since it was made. The sticking was the result of a lot of crap/scale building up inside the throttle body around the plunger. My guess is that it's the result of my last running in May in Boulder City before they got the water treatment softener installed and functional. Nevada is known for VERY hard water. So we made a special tool to get in there and ream it out, and I now have the tool and know-how to do it if it happens again. I also made up a new quick'n'dirty throttle handle out of 3/8 brass round stock that's quite a bit longer providing better leverage. It's smooth as silk now.







I'll make another nicely shaped polished brass handle later. Last night we were in somewhat of a hurry so I just made something functional. 
Today my tender derailed twice - no reason (defecation occurs) - and broke a couple of the aluminum rivets that hold the brake hangers in place, so I have to make up a couple of those. No biggie. I thought about replacing them with stainless screws, but on second thought I'd rather have the rivets as the weak point. They are far easier to replace than having to make and paint new hangers.

Seems like the smaller scale steamers are maintenance beasts just like their big brothers!!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

"Seems like the smaller scale steamers are maintenance beasts just like their big brothers!!" 

How true, how true!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

You're just havin' too much fun for a grown up, Dwight.....









Great run by.......


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I'm just getting ready for retirement in six months Stan... besides, I learned it from you!! hehehe


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 01 Jul 2012 10:48 PM 
I'm just getting ready for retirement in six months Stan... besides, I learned it from you!! hehehe











When you retire, everyday is Monday.

Looks like it's running great. 

We got our water treatment facility (Grain elevator) up and running down here. At least we are filtering the 1/4" stuff out.

Another thing about running in the desert is very fine, gritty, dry clay. It gets into everything. Have to lubricate constantly.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Bob,

You got the saying wrong. It's "Every day is Saturday - except Sunday".


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Who cares what day it is, you're retired.


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Don't get too excited about retiring, Dwight. You'll find that you have less time to do things than you do now!









HUH?????

When you have a job, you have much better time management as you have to schedule around your work hours. When you're retired and get up in the morning you'll think, "Oh, I have to do this today." Then you'll say, "I guess that I can read the paper first and then check MLS, etc." And at the end of the day...

Of course, in your case your time management may actually improve!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

When you have a job, you have much better time management as you have to schedule around your work hours. When you're retired and get up in the morning you'll think, "Oh, I have to do this today." Then you'll say, "I guess that I can read the paper first and then check MLS, etc." And at the end of the day...You know George... I think I'll risk it. hehehe


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Here's the deal about retirement Dwight. You are much busier then when you were working. The "honey-do" list grows exponentially. You'll wonder how you found time to get anything done. You don't have to go to Home Depot on Saturday when it's really crowded. But, you can eat breakfast during daylight hours and/or just plain eat breakfast. Second cup of coffee. Start cooking dinner, man food!!

I'm telling you, everyday is Monday.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Well Bob, as a guy who's currently still having to work, at the moment I'll have to go along with Dan...Who cares what day it is, you're retired.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Bob is correct in the melon jobs but earlier this spring I did two, downstairs powder room and deck. I started to talk about another home project and my wife said, "Honey you have done enough for this year, it's time you had some fun and did some steaming, work in your shop and attend some steam-ups. (No she is not for sale.) Dwight you will only "not have time to do things" if you were never organized in your past life. I tell people, "If I knew retirement was this great I would have done it 5 years earlier". My wife feels the same way.
Friends gave us a Day Clock which is on the kitchen wall to keep our time line straight.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I've taken a couple of weeks vacation before where I'd planned to get a whole bunch of things done. I've yet to accomplish everything I'd planned, but I don't beat myself up for it so long as I accomplished quite a bit of it (which I usually have). I'll approach retirement the same way. Part of the whole point - to me at least - is I no longer *HAVE* to have deadlines to meet, schedules to keep, to-do lists, ad nauseum. I've done that crap all my life - first in school, and then in my working career. Once I retire, as far as I'm concerned, I am, for the most part, done with all that. If I get something done, great. If I don't, also great. Probably means I felt like sleeping all day, and that's great too. 


And my wife already knows that I don't "do" lists. hehehe I don't make them for myself, and I don't allow others to make them for me. I'm happy to do stuff for her, but I'll get it done when I get it done. She's fine with that (and no, SHE ain't for sale either - hehehe).

As the days shorten until the "big day", I find myself champing at the bit more and more.

BTW, Jesse and I are planning to go up to GGLS again on the 4th. This time I'll try and get photos and some good video. Last time I forgot to charge the camcorder battery and it never occurred to me to use my damn phone.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

The only indication I have that it might be Sunday or Wednesday is the neighbors put out their garbage cans.


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, you have the right idea on how to proceed. One of the main benefits is little or no stress. Things get done when they get done. You'll have a great time.


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By xo18thfa on 03 Jul 2012 02:39 PM 
The only indication I have that it might be Sunday or Wednesday is the neighbors put out their garbage cans. 
I check the day/date on the newspaper.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 01 Jul 2012 10:48 PM 
I'm just getting ready for retirement in six months Stan... besides, I learned it from you!! hehehe








Comin' to Preskitt??????? 

Maricopa Live Steamer's track is only an hour away or you can buy your own container for storage and leave 'er there....


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Running today at Golden Gate Live Steamers...


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight; 

The little gal has a nice bark for her size. Reminds me of Tink, my Crown Metal Products 2 foot gauge 4-4-0 from back in the mid-1960s. You are going to love running her. 

Best wishes, 
David Meashey


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looks like a very lively runner Dwight. Moving with a real sense of purpose. Anybody rubber necking the cab work??

vr bs


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Seems to me...that you MIGHT need a new photo in your signature.....


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Dave.







Anybody rubber necking the cab work??I've gotten quite a few compliments on it and on the loco overall, but no "rubber necking" to speak of.







Seems to me...that you MIGHT need a new photo in your signature..... No comprende... 
After a bunch of laps yesterday, the damn throttle became REAL sticky again.







Since the fix the last time was to ream it to get the crap build-up out of the throttle body, I'm reasonably certain it's the same cause - and the same fix. However, that points to a more fundamental issue - i.e. crap build-up in the boiler. This didn't start happening until after my last trip to Vegas/Boulder City, and knowing how hard the water is there, and add in the fact that the water treatment device was not yet installed and functional the last time I was there leads me to believe this is the root cause. 

I ordered a boresight scope so I can actually look inside the throttle/boiler, and I ordered some LSB 8000 boiler water treatment. However, I was told by the Terlyn Sales Rep that it works over time and isn't used as a boiler "flush." I'm wondering if any of you guys with steel boiler experience can recommend a good boiler flush agent and procedure (and I need STEP-BY-STEP instructions as I'm completely new at this). Or maybe the answer is to just use the LSB 8000 and allow it to do its thing, cleaning out the throttle after every day's run in the interim. Thoughts?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, I suggest your last idea- start the boiler treatment and ,for now, clean the throttle after each run (while parts still warm and contaminants have not yet solidified. 

Larry


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Just out of curiosity, and as someone real new to running to live steam, Would it be possible to take a fiting off the top of the boiler, unscrew the blowdown valve and pressure-wash the inside? Also spray through the throttle valve to flush anything in the line from the boiler to the throttle back to the boiler? I have no idea if the logistics of anything similar would be practical. A fully completed 7.5" gauge is much heavier and larger than the 3.5" rainhill im working on, and the ruby i run.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Thanks Larry. Over on Chaski, I got one suggestion to use vinegar, and another to use muriatic acid. I should get the boresight scope next week - that should let me see what's in there (calcium, rust) and how much. I'm not going to do anything until then. 
Just out of curiosity, and as someone real new to running to live steam, Would it be possible to take a fiting off the top of the boiler, unscrew the blowdown valve and pressure-wash the inside? It sounds like a possibility though I don't have any idea how effective it would be as the pressure washer couldn't be moved around inside the boiler. It would also require some disassembly. Might work better if the boiler was removed and completely accessible. 
Also spray through the throttle valve to flush anything in the line from the boiler to the throttle back to the boiler?At a minimum, this would require the removal of the steam lines from the dry pipe inside the smokebox to keep the crap from being flushed into the cylinders, and perhaps the removal of the steam dome top.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

In full sized practice, boilers have washout plugs strategically placed to facilitate washing sediment out of the boiler. They are often at each end at the bottom of the waterlegs surrounding the firebox and over the crownsheet and at the bottom of each end of the longer portion of the boiler barrel. High pressure water wands are poked through or attached to the plug boss to apply high pressure water to blow the sediment out the washout holes at the other end. Some may be hand held and some are too high of pressure and must be threaded into the washout boss and have some mechanism that distributes the water over the area to be cleaned.

In addition, "blow-down valves" exist at the bottom of the boiler to allow sediment to be blown out of the boiler while in operation. The Fireman makes sure the water injection system is working properly and that the boiler has plenty of water. The Engineer or Fireman then opens a blow-down valve on one side of the engine for a few seconds to vent water from the bottom of the boiler, which hopefully takes a lot of the crud with it. Then they close the valve before too much water is expelled and more water is injected into the boiler to make up for what was lost.

BTW: the blow-down valve is not a multi-turn faucet type valve, it is usually just a single vane that covers (from the inside) a hole in the side of the boiler that can be slid out of the way, venting the water very quickly, and just as quickly can be pushed back over the hole to shut the flow off.

In the toy boiler world, many boilers have a faucet type valve mounted much higher on the boiler that is mistakenly called a "Blow-down" valve, but is, in reality, more like a manual pressure-relief valve.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Today I received a couple of "goodies" I'd ordered a while back.









First, a number plate...










I mounted it at lunchtime...










And second, a set of buildr's plates for the smokebox sides...


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Looking Good 
Andre


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Those builder's plates and the number plate are pretty slick! Are they cast or machine cut? how does one do such a thing these days, I don't imagine you carved wooden patterns.


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Beautiful, Dwight!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Are they cast or machine cut? how does one do such a thing these daysEric - they are CNC milled. I got them from Adam Wright of Michigan, the same guy Eric M got his porter-style plates from. In fact, it was after I saw Eric's photos here that I got in touch with him and found out where he got them.








They must need one helluva tiny end mill!!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow, Dwight. That's the cherry on the hot fudge sundae and the icing on the cake. What a great touch!!!!!!!


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

I havnt gotten up the skill or courage for such a CNC milling job. I understand that the use of a pointed tool will make nice sharp inside corners if you draw the tool up as you approach the corners. I couldnt figure out the "G-code" for that, must be some special software to do the Math for you.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Wow, Dwight. That's the cherry on the hot fudge sundae and the icing on the cake. What a great touch!!!!!!! Don't you mean "cherry on the smokebox door?" hehehe

Thanks Stan! I agree. Amazing how a small splash of bright red makes the whole thing *"*_pop."_[/b] Detailing has always been one of the more fun aspects of the hobby to me, whether it be structures, locos, or rolling stock.







I haven't gotten up the skill or courage for such a CNC milling job. I understand that the use of a pointed tool will make nice sharp inside corners if you draw the tool up as you approach the corners. I couldn't figure out the "G-code" for that, must be some special software to do the Math for you.If you move from a certain point to another and include a "Z-n.nnn" command, the Z-axis will smoothly move up from its origin point to where it's told to go. Perhaps that's what he's doing. Also, I have no idea how sophisticated a CNC milling machine he has. If you have the money, you can get something that will make just about anything.









I was talking to him on the phone and gathered that he has access to a fairly advanced CAM program. I suspect he has access to an equally advanced CNC milling machine. He does terrific work, whatever he's using!! I certainly wouldn't try this at home.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Posted By Phippsburg Eric on 18 Jul 2012 08:21 AM 
I havnt gotten up the skill or courage for such a CNC milling job. I understand that the use of a pointed tool will make nice sharp inside corners if you draw the tool up as you approach the corners. I couldnt figure out the "G-code" for that, must be some special software to do the Math for you. When I was in the die sinking trade, I would do BOTH raised and engraved lettering in the dies, for part names and serial numbers. Some of the most difficult were the very small model numbers for J&E racing pistion dies. These were all machined using very small pointed cutters (.020" diameter). The worst were using cutters with a small radius on the point so that when the part was forged, you would not set-up stress fractures in the area of the lettering in the finished forging. The toolpaths for these jobs was programmed on MasterCam in 3-axis machining. Only way to get the sharp, crisp areas in the lettering. The G-code is all generated by the post processor in the software.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, you got to bring that jewel to Marty's even if it won't fit Marty's track Gauge. 

We promise to drool all over it.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, could you provide contact info for Adam--I'd like to discuss a project with him. 

Thanks, 

Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: 7-1/2" Gauge CP #173 Builder's Log - Part 2*

Dwight, you got to bring that jewel to Marty's even if it won't fit Marty's track Gauge.If I were going and enough people asked me to, I suppose I would. However, I'm not able to go this year again (have to work). Who knows what the future holds.








Dwight, could you provide contact info for Adam--I'd like to discuss a project with him. Sure Larry...

*Solidesign*

Tell him you heard about him from me.







He makes other stuff besides builder's plates and number boards (see the web site). As far as those go, he cam make, for example, the metal tag for air pumps, etc. For small scale, I'd check him out if I were looking for drumheads, fancy observation car handrails, and the like.


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