# 7/8" scale DeCauviiles have arrived



## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

I received a call from Accucraft this afternoon informing me that my 7/8" scale DeCauville 0-4-0 has arrived. 

I'll pick it up at Accucraft HQ tomorrow afternoon and will report on first impressions soon.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

OK Jeff,
Let's have it for all of us waiting for delivery of our D-ville.
You're lucky to live close to headquarters vs across the country,
Tom


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## Ron Tremblay (Aug 18, 2011)

Ya Jeff, lets see the pics-videos.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Hear, hear! 

Bear with the rest of us, Jeff, we're living this vicariously through you. It's going to be a little while longer for some of us (send the check to Jason, wait for the check to clear, wait for Accucraft to drop ship the Decauville, wait for the package delivery service to drive clear across the USA to get to your house, wait some more because you waited all day until you absolutely had to get to the grocery store for bread and milk or your wife would file for divorce and that's precisely when the driver showed up with the package you have to sign for...).

Impatient? Heck yeah.


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## CarlCobb (Apr 29, 2017)

Ok cool!


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

Sorry for the delay, folks. Had some oral surgery on Friday so wasn't feeling up for any steaming.

I own a dozen live-steam locomotives and this is the only one I would describe as "cute", because it really is!

So, some observations: 

1. The DeCauville has LOTS of very fine details on the boiler and backhead, all of which will require great care to keep from breaking or bending while handling.

2. There are four covers that are not permanently attached to the locomotive, specifically:
Fake coal load covering steam oil filler
Fake sand dome covering the water filler
Fake right side tank cover hiding the butane filler
Fake left side tank cover hiding nothing

So, there's the potential for losing or misplacing some of these while prepping the loco for steaming.

3. Lots of room in the cab and under the cab floor for RC equipment installation or for mounting a 7/8" scale figure.

4. Instruction book claims there is a drain valve for the water accumulated in the lubricator, but in fact, the drain valve under the left side of the cab is a boiler blow-down connected to the bottom of the water gauge fitting. That means one will have to suck the water out of the lubricator with a syringe.

My first steam up attempt had to be stopped and loco shut down as soon as I tried moving the loco after the pressure came up, as one of the drivers had come loose from its axle and tried to regauge itself. The DeCauville can be regauged from 45 mm track to O-gauge (I think) by loosening the set screws on the drivers, something I failed to check before firing up. So, as I type this, I'm waiting for the loco to cool off enough to handle it to fix this problem.

So a bit of a rocky start but I'm sure that this will be a fun little guy when I get it running.

I'll post photos as soon as I can figure out how to do so.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Jeff for your post,
Hope you recuperate quickly from your oral surgery, sometimes not fun. 
Your preliminary report on the Decauville is much appreciated. I have seen the pre-production samples and it is a beautiful little, "cute" example of the live steam art. As we demand more detail in our models the "delicate" factor has to be dealt with. The boiler blow down sounds like a useful feature. I'm accustomed to cleaning the lubricator with a syringe so the blow down might even increase the accuracy of the gauge glass. 
Those of us on the right coast will not receive our models until late this week at the earliest so we depend on you left coasters to keep us in the loop. Please post pics/video when you can.
Have fun,
Tom


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Jeff, thanks very much for your report! I hope your mouth is feeling better soon.

You're absolutely right, the cuteness quotient counts for a lot, especially at public events. I was at a steamup a few years ago with plenty of well-detailed motive power, and the most remarked-upon engine by onlookers was an Accucraft "Emma", because it was cute. I guess that's why (or maybe it's because) tourist railroads put fake diamond stacks on everything.

Is the blow-down you described plumbed off the boiler or the sight glass? If it's the latter, that's a good thing, it might help (if only slightly) to make the water gauge a bit more useful than mere decoration -- a critical feature with a boiler this small.

I"m strongly considering single-channel R/C (throttle only) for this model and would want to use the space under the footplate and in the side tanks for batteries and an RX. I'm guessing from what photos I've seen and your description that putting a servo under the floor would be possible only if you cut a hole for a reach rod to connect to the throttle. Do you think there's enough space on the cab floor to put, say, a micro-servo without it being too obtrusive?

You should be able to post pictures as attachments -- there's a picture icon on the Reply to Thread toolbar (second row, fifth from the right) that allows you to insert an image.

Enjoy the new engine!


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## Jim Overland (Jan 3, 2008)

Mine is suppose to arrive today in Seattle

Black

jim o


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Green. Friday. 

One thing I wanted to add in response to Jeff's posting is that with any new-out-of-the-box Accucraft model, you need to check tightness of nuts and bolts. I took delivery of a Countess back in 2009 and found that the majority of the valve gear bolts were loose -- and I mean loose enough to fall out. 

It should go without saying that you don't need to really torque down on these -- they're tiny and will strip easily -- and it shouldn't be necessary to use blue Loctite (if a fastener's that loose that it won't take up properly hand tight, there are bigger issues). Just a better outcome than losing a uniquely sized metric bolt somewhere in the weeds, or worse still, having part of the running gear come adrift and cause damage and/or a derailment.


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

Hopefully these are the photos of my DeCauville with and without the detachable covers. Small steps first!


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## Ron Tremblay (Aug 18, 2011)

Thanks for the pics Jeff, Looks great cant wait to get my green one.


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

This is a response to JoelB:

1. The boiler blowdown does in fact come directly off of the bottom water glass fitting, so may help if one gets a tenacious bubble stuck in the water glass. The lever for the blowdown valve is quite close to the underside of the footplate, so it probably is easiest to actuate with a short length of rigid tubing that slips over the lever.

2. It will only take a small hole/slot in the footplate to actuate the throttle with an under-floor servo. There is also a lot of space on the top of the foorplate if you wanted to mount a servo there and perhaps a 7/8" scale human figure could be used to partially hide the top-mounted servo.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Many thanks, Jeff! This is a big help.

I have an Accucraft drain valve (their part number AP21-613) that replaces the stock valve...when I unbox mine on Friday, I'll see if there's enough room under the cab floor to fit it.

If I do fit R/C on the throttle, I'd likely opt to put the servo on the cab floor, I don't quite have the nerve to start milling a slot in that nice new floor.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I have an issue with mine, which I picked up today. At first it would not stay lit and frequently flame out because the gas flow was erratic, inconsistent and frequently stall. I assumed manufacturing residue in the tank and a partially clogged jet.

So I removed the gas jet, blew it out in reverse with Butane, then let a full tank of Butane blow out though the open line. After assembly, Butane flow was smooth and consistent, but then a new problem arose. After lighting, the fire would not pop back to the burner regardless of the flow setting or the position of the air flow collar on the burner. Fire remained in the smoke box no matter how low I set the fuel valve.

I may have found the problem with the help of Jason over the phone. Following his advice, I removed the burner (one little screw) and examined it closely. It appears that the steel part of the burner with slots is not parallel with the brass end and mounting collar. This causes the the burner to angle upward in the flue with its end slightly touching the top of the flue wall. The jet may be spraying into the slots instead of down the middle of the burner. 

I was outside for all of the above and will later go over it all in my shop on another day. As of this time, it is still not fixed. With more than 40 years in live steaming (Aster Old Faithful in 1976), I have never run into this problem. What am I missing?

ANY IDEAS OUT THERE? Anyone had or having a similar issue with this locomotive? The Decauville's little short burner is not the standard used in other Accucraft locos, so replacing it in a timely manor may be another issue.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Carl- having the same identical problem with mine. I've contacted Jay re a fix. I'll pull the poker on mine tonight and have a look- if I understand correctly, the poker's not at ninety degrees to the mounting collar (?). If that's the case, it may be easy to true it up on a lathe, if you have access. Will await Jay's reply though, before proceeding.


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Well, of all things, at 7:15pm I had just settled down with a train magazine when there arose such a clatter at the front door. Away to the front door I flew like a flash, tore open the shutters, and threw up the sash,
oops. 
When I opened the door the UPS man had left a box from Accucraft. It seemed like Christmas.

Well packed, the Decauville is beautiful.
I also bought a chuffer from Jason and installed it.

Ditto on the fine details. There is even fine detail underneath for the brake rigging. Hopefully it isn't wiped away on the first derailment!
This is definitely not one for the 6 year old grandson.

I have not run it yet, but my burner looks straight. I'll see this weekend.

Few thoughts:

The safety valve in under the front dome which just pulls up and off for easy access to the safety valve. Very good.

The water gauge glass blowdown valve needs to be lowered about an 1/8"-3/16" for easier access. I will need to take a closer look at how to remedy that. 

The water fill (no Goodall valve) is under the rear (sand) dome. The dome also just pulls off with "sand pipes" holding it on. (note to self, buy a Goodall valve) One caveat, if you get a Goodall valve, be careful pulling off the dome when refilling a hot boiler. The paint is good, but any paint is easily damaged when hot. 

Will need to ask Jason about putting batteries for R/C in the left water tank. Access to the tank is not obvious. Plenty of room for at least one servo under footplate for throttle. I am not conversant in R/C, so there may be room for everything under the footplate.

Those that have this loco coming, you will be happy.

Dan


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

Well, I'm a lot embarassed now. I also had a strange experience with the burner on my DeCauville, but didn't report anything because I was trying to deal with a new loco, loose driver, etc. and figured that it was operator (my) error.

I also did a reverse blow out of the jet and dumped a full tank of butane, just like "weaverc", without improvement.

I haven't pulled the burner yet - figured that there was a high probability of losing the tiny screw.

Sorry folks, I should have reported this in my second report but didn't want to "poison the pond", since my first thought was that I was doing something wrong.

Jeff


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

> the steel part of the burner with slots is not parallel with the brass end and mounting collar


I had a similar problem with another Accucraft loco, a "Jedrig' (and Edrig sold through John Sutton in the UK). The poker is the standard length used in most (if not all) the UK models.

There was a noticeable tilt in the poker in relation to the brass mounting plate, although not enough to cause the lighting problems already described. My solution was to gently bend the brass plate to compensate -- however, without having yet seen the Decauville burner, I definitely would *not* recommend trying this yourself unless Accucraft can't come up with a fix under warranty.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I managed to carefully and slowly bend the steel tube into alignment with the fitting in a 3 way chuck. No apparent damage as a result. I repeatedly inserted an exact fit drill into the burner to frequently check alignment. I then bent the thin mounting tab (the part with the screw hole in it) so that the burner appears to enter the center of the flue. After a recommendation from Jason Kovac, I also put stainless steel mesh around the burner as I have with many other locos. Not sure if the mesh will help, but at least it is another precaution. I found the jet holder to be loose in the burner hole, so before putting it in, I wrapped 2 layers of thread sealant tape around it. Now it fits tightly, but loose enough to turn for alignment with the fitting. It will be tomorrow before I am able to test it to see if there is any improvement. So standby.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Let us know. I did the same last night- my burner was out of line too, although not as much as yours. Going to re-install later today, curious how yours goes. Also like to know how the mesh works out- I may as well do that too while it's apart.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

My green Decauville (No. 16) arrived this afternoon. This really is a finescale model, Jason Kovac and David Fletcher have a great deal to be proud of.

A few comments:

-- I checked the burner in my engine by sighting down the flue from the firebox end. Sure enough, it's tilted upward. However, when I lit the gas I did not have any issues with the flame either not catching or not staying in the flue. I was able to light the engine three separate times with no problem. _I should note that the gas valve on this engine requires very, very little movement to get gas flowing to the burner, a matter of a few degrees beyond simply cracking it open._  My only concern at this point is that if the poker is making contact with the flue, it could potentially create a hot spot and weaken the tube.
-- The headlight was an unexpected and very nice touch.
-- A chuffer is really a requirement for this engine (I have no connection to Summerlands, all usual disclaimers, etc). The exhaust is simply a straight pipe, and with a non-superheated engine such as this one, the engine, onlookers and landscape are going to get a oily bath if the stock exhaust pipe is left in.
-- Dummy coal load over the lubricator is another nice feature, but on my engine, it didn't quite fit and the (real) coal was stacked high enough to foul the injector casting on that side. Not the best thing for an item that you have to remove and replace at least once every run. I'll probably work up something myself by gluing some coal chunks down to a piece of thin plywood with some black caulk.
-- The valve gear is finescale and held together with tiny screws and nuts. The screws are probably Phillips 000, so I need to find a new screwdriver to add to the toolbox. Good news is that everything was nice and snug out of the box.

More later, as I get a chance to run the engine.


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Made the first run with the Decauville.
A little tight, but hopefully will loosen up as I run it.

My burner was ok. Acted like a standard Accucraft. I will also put some mesh around the burner. This loco has a fairly short boiler. But, unlike the Dora, the smokebox door does not get abnormally hot with a reasonable gas setting. It looks to me that Jim Sanders of WeeBee will have a new loco to retrofit a multi hole burner.

There is apparently no insulation around the gas tank. With the tank enclosed in the right water tank, it gets hot. After about 10-15 minutes (80 degrees F OAT), the engine sounds like it is "coughing." The burner flame will intermittently increase in flame and sound. Definitely needs some insulation.

Overall, the engine worked ok. A finer thread on the gas control would be nice. (Jason, can you do it with this good looking gas valve?)

I took off the water gauge glass blowdown valve to see how to slightly lower it for better access. It will be a fairly simple tap and die exercise to make a short extension. HOWEVER, (there is always a however) the thread on the valve body is M3x.35. I have quite a few ME, Metric, BA and Unified imperial taps and dies, but not that one! Just made a purchase on eBay.

Glad I purchased the loco. I also bought the chuffer. With the chuffer, there was no oily mess on the loco. After seeing how nice this is, I may retrofit some of my other locos with chuffers.

Dan


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Couple of other items about my first run.

I ran for about 25 minutes with a light loco. There was still some water remaining. I cannot tell about gas consumption. I added more gas when the engine started "coughing." As I hoped, this cooled the tank enough that the engine ran normal for the remainder of the run.

Also, the cylinders water locked. I moved the reverser lever for almost 5 minutes, forward and backward. Finally, the engine started. I had removed water from the boiler after filling, but apparently not the 30-40 ml. as suggested. I will be a little more careful next time.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Captain Dan
I had the same coughing and cut out that you did and that is why I removed the jet and blew it in reverse with butane then let a full tank spew out the line. After reassembly, gas feed was smooth and consistent even when the tank was hot. I assume the tank was full of manufacturing residue.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Dan, Carl --

Thanks very much for posting your experiences with the engine. 



> It looks to me that Jim Sanders of WeeBee will have a new loco to retrofit a multi hole burner.


That sounds very interesting, that's a mod I'd gladly invest in. I"ll get in touch with Jim and express interest.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Carl,
No rinsing of the tank, just blow the gas out?
Thanks,
Tom


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

That's all it took for me.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Regarding a replacement burner that Captain Dan mentioned: does anyone have a current contact address for Wee Bee Loco Parts? I tried the address on the comcast.net domain and the mail server bounces it back.

Thanks!


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Last email I have is:

[email protected]

Don't know if has changed.

Dan


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Thank you, sir!


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## channing (May 9, 2017)

*Decauville Burners*

Hello folks,

Channing here from Accucraft. Some of you may have met me before at Diamondhead or Summer Steamup.

I'd like to address the issue of the misaligned burners that some of you have posted about here. First of all, if anybody received a burner that was not soldered straight, we can of course replace that for you. We will have spare parts including extra burners sent to the US office soon.

In some cases, even a straight burner could still tilt up in the flue due to unevenness where the jet holder plate contacts with the boiler or even due to the tightening of the mounting screw. If your burner is tilting up, I ask you try this solution first; remove the burner and add a small brass washer (4mm od/2.2mm id, about .5mm thick) around the mounting screw between the jet plate and the boiler. Please see attached photos. If anybody needs such washers sent to them, this can be arranged as well.

Thanks,
Channing


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't mean to be rude, but has anyone gotone of the engines to run long enough to make a video. They sound like they would be funto watch.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

On page 3 of the Decauville thread on the Seven Eighths Lounge www.7-8ths.info Eric Schade has posted a video of prepping for and the first run of Steve Lennox's Decauville on Eric's wonderful wooded railway.
It's a beautiful little locomotive. But then I'm a bit prejudiced.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like you have to ba member to access the site.


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Chaps,
Eric's Video is on You-Tube, here:






Runs nicely.

David.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you David, That is a beautiful little engine.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

I have one of these new engines, and it's a work of art. As I mentioned in a post on the SE Lounge, the closest comparison would be to a Wrightscale engine in terms of scale fidelity and detail.


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

Does straightening out the burner so that its sides are parallel to the flue solve the "coughing" problem?

There was a suggestion earlier in this thread that the coughing was caused by an overheating butane tank, due to its proximity to the boiler, with no insulation between tank and boiler.

Are there two issues with the burner or just one?


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Carl Weaver cleaned his jet and tank which solved the 'coughing' problem then he straightened his burner. He tells how he did these things in post #s 15 & 20 of this thread.
The tank/jet cleaning is easy, I'm likely to try the washer solution Channing suggested, kind of crude but if it works....my burner (looking through the smoke box) seems to be touching the top of the flue tube. I believe it should be centered.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

I disassembled the jet and burner, blew out the jet with butane and added the washer (it's a size 1). The washer is not thick enough to make a difference, the poker still tilts up and contacts the top of the flue. The gas tank was filled and then allowed to empty.

In fact, it may be counter-productive, as after reassembling the burner assembly, I can't get it to light at all -- the flame stays in the smokebox and won't pop back; if I cut back the gas slightly, it pops back into the flue for a moment and then goes out. This is true regardless of the setting of the burner collar.

Well, it makes a nice desk ornament...

UPDATE 5:45PM EDT: I disassembled the works again, removed the washer from between the burner assembly and the boiler. Also renewed the teflon tape that was used -- in fact, had been over-used -- on the jet to seal the thread, also added teflon tape -- again, sparingly -- around the jet holder when re-inserting it back into the burner assembly. Note that tape was used by the factory when assembling the jet into the holder, but they used far too much and there were parts of it in the holder itself. The tape around the holder was my addition, as it was pretty loose in the burner assembly without it.

Now the burner lights normally. I don't have the opportunity tonight to bench-test the loco (not without incurring the wrath of She Who Must Be Obeyed) to see if the popping problem persists, so a full test will have to wait for tomorrow.

Yes, I understand completely that there are likely too many variables for me to pinpoint what went wrong here (and how much of it was self-inflicted), but my strong hunch is that the washer solution that was suggested for the burner misalignment is a waste of time. Next thing to check will be whether insulation makes a difference.


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## Ron Tremblay (Aug 18, 2011)

I tried the one washer too No dif. Then put four much better, Have a little space now. mine starts up fine, just when it heats up when running the coughing starts. even coughs the flame out. and did the cleaning of gas jet and tank twice.


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

The "coughing symptom".
With many of my accucraft engines when the gas tank is full it will pass liquid and not gas, and the flame will cough and can even provide a nice flame thrower if the smoke box door is open. This can be avoided by first turning on the gas and let the liquid be vented off, once only gas is being passed then turn off the gas valve, let the gas dissipate around the loco then light off the burner. When liquid is being passed there is a sputtering sound and quite different from gas only. Then the burner is quite reliable.

Steve


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

I always bleed off some gas at the beginning of a run, just by force of habit. The issue with mine (and perhaps some others) is that the 'spitting' is happening later in the firing cycle, not after filling. Thus, heat may be the suspect? I will add, my tank does appear to be insulated.


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

I have had that happen also on some models, but it may require a relight some times then it goes away. Not really a big deal.

Steve


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Hi,

The "coughing"/unstable flame later in the run problem is heat. If you look at the right water tank where the gas tank is located, you can see the problem.

The gas tank is totally enclosed next to the boiler and smokebox. Look at your other locomotives, the gas tank can get very warm, but it usually is at the back of the locomotive. It usually has some exposed surfaces to the air. This one has none AND the gas tank goes to the front of the tank right next to the smoke box, the hottest part of our locomotives.

I will stuff some insulation between the smokebox and the right water tank/inside gas tank. Hopefully, this will stop the gas from overheating.

Lots of people are speculating about the problem, but this is not one of the "round up the usual suspects" problems we have with gas fired engines.

I will let you know with the insulation experiment.

Dan


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

Sounds like the same issue just to a greater extent. My UK prototype engines have the gas tank running up into the side tank which it occurs.

Steve


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Captain Dan said:


> Hi,
> 
> The "coughing"/unstable flame later in the run problem is heat. If you look at the right water tank where the gas tank is located, you can see the problem.
> 
> ...


My thoughts exactly. The front plate that is contiguous with the smokebox may also be transferring a lot of heat as well. Q- were you able to get the tank 'top' off, and how did you do that?


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Just made two runs with the loco. Since the last time I ran it, I wrapped the burner in ss mesh and made a 10mm extension to lower the water gauge glass blowdown valve. And yes the valve has a slow leak.

Gas valve is really sensitive. Still had a some unstable flame later in the 1st run. Just to test out my heat theory, when the unstable flame started, I put some ice cubes on the front of the right tank. In a couple of minutes the unstable flame/"coughing" stopped or maybe was reduced. If I would have had a Goodall valve to add water to the boiler, I could have kept going to see if the problem came back. 

The second run, I stuffed some boiler insulating wrap between the smokebox and the water tank/gas tank. It may have helped, but the last message about the bottom of the water tank being attached to the smokebox is probably the main heat conduit. Also, I do not know how to remove the tank. We will need Jason to tell us how.

Dan


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

Oh, just by the by, the water tank top over the gas tank easily lifts off. Just carefully move the 2 tiny copper wires out of the way and lift the tank top off.

There is insulation between the gas tank and the boiler side of the water tank, I cannot tell if there is insulation on the bottom.

Also, I removed the gas regulator valve. Jason has a nice fine thread and long sharp point, but, in my estimation, Accucraft ruined it by making the receiving hole (?)(bottom hole in the valve) way too large. Need some thought as to how to fix that. The way it is now, the gas valve is way too sensitive. Who knows, maybe that is part of the gas surging/unstable flame/"coughing" problem????

The blowdown valve on my loco does leak a little, but the hotter the loco is, the less it leaks. 

This is a really nice loco. These problems will be fixed. I think that those that have this loco, will be happy. It really looks the part. A little tweaking and it will run the part!


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## doublereefed (Jan 3, 2008)

Here's a video clip of the Decauville on Jim Hadden's line. He had the problem with the burner that has been mentioned, but he quickly remedied that. The loco put in some great runs. What a jewel.

Jim was running his Decauville, I was running my coal fired Emma conversion from The Train Department, as seen at the end of the video. It too is a complete gem of a locomotive. That firebox is just enormous, makes for very forgiving locomotive to fire on coal.






Best,

-Richard


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Beautiful locomotives in a grand setting. Thanks Richard for posting the video.
What was Jim's remedy for the Decauville cough?
Best,
Tom


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