# Pressure treated wood chemical effects



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm looking to use pressure treated 1x6 pressure treated boards as shelves for my trains. My plan is to groove the boards so to not need rails on the boards. These would be inside my shop. But, could the chemicals in the wood cause any problems with the wheels or even the cars themselves? 99% of my cars have metal wheels


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There are different treatments, I'd not use the treated boards.

If you do, please wear breathing protection while doing the dados.

Greg


----------



## Fred Mills (Nov 24, 2008)

It is NOT recommended to use pressure treated wood for interior use. Why use that stuff indoor in the first place ?
Why not just use a reasonable Pine, or other soft wood 1x board, or even shelf material ?
Instead of cutting groves, why not just cut a strip of thin hardboard into strips that fit the back-to-back wheel spacing and glue/tack it onto the shelving, to keep the rolling stock, inline on the shelf.......
Use a small bit of common sense here, and save yourself time, effort, and cost....


----------



## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Andrew


----------



## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Randy
I agree with the gents above, PT wood is toxic and has a bad tendency to warp since it is soaked with chemicals and can warp when drying out. I used a variation on what Fr Fred suggests, my Home Despot has cheap lathe strips that are almost perfect for wheel spacing, as shown in my storage cabinet










Jerry


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I'll hold my tongue regarding the one remark from the peanut gallery. As for the constructive replys, thanks. The pine boards are only a couple bucks more each so I'll use them.


----------



## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Good choice Randy, stay away from pressure treated wood as much as possible and what ever you do don't cut it inside your home. The dust, like the gas given off from burning it is carcinogenic, even if you're sucking in the fumes from an open fire pit! I do think it has it's applications, but I don't think the suppliers emphasis the dangers as much as they should.
I hope this doesn't fit into the "peanut gallery category" just want you to be safe. 
All the best for the New Year.
Cheers.


----------



## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

If you prefer the look of grooves to the battens, you could just use standard 1x6 boards. You could also consider 1x6 composite boards that they sell for decking. They cut and route like real wood, though I had back luck with them out in the weather they're probably fine inside.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Randy, made my cabinets from 3/4" ply and grooved them, still enough strength:


----------



## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

Just some FYI
Treated lumber* if used* for bee hive stands will gas off and kill a lot of the bee's in the hives.
It will also ca-road regular nails and screws.
I would think it would do the same to the wheels.


----------



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Don't mean to derail the thread but, with all the caveats about treated wood, what good is it, anyway? Cedar is good for outdoor use; is treated especially cheaper? 

JackM


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions. I think the 1-in x 6-in x 8-ft Kiln-Dried Cedar Board will work better than the composites. I should be able to space supports at 48 inches where composites would most likely sag after a while. Grooving the boards lengthwise shouldn't hurt the strength. But the price is $9.44 each compared to the PT boards being only $5.63 each. So, I'll need twelve 8 footers. So after the 10% employee discount I'll be looking at about $100.00. Then there is the cost for the vertical supports.


----------



## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I needed a lot of shelves very quickly, so I went to HD or Lowe's and bought 4 foot by 8 foot sheets of plywood and had them cut them into 12 and 15 inch wide strips. I then cut grooves with a circular saw about the depth of my flanges. My thinking was that the wheels would be better supported on the wheel flat than on the thin flange. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Randy - Now I see the attraction. BIG price difference between treated and cedar!

JackM


----------



## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Randy,

I am not sure which 'peanut gallery' you were referring to, but all the above information is valuable to one degree or another. Most importantly, pressure treated lumber if not respected can be dangerous. I have done several shelves using plywood or 1x pine board as a base, then adding 1/4" thick rips of a standard 2x4 (1 1/2" wide). An option to keep cost down, check the drop and damaged bin at Home Depot, Lowes, or your local lumber yard. I usually pick up pieces there for small projects for pennies on the dollar.

As for using PT lumber indoors, some states/counties are beginning to require some form of treatment on the shoe (bottom horizontal member) of exterior load bearing walls in new residential construction to assist in the mitigation of water damage and termite invasion. Under normal conditions, this will offgas long before the finished interior wall covering is applied so risk is minimized.

FWIW, Bob C.


----------



## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy:

I built a table with folding steel legs and a 3/4" plywood top with some plywood strips glued to the bottom to prevent sagging. This table serves as my primary work surface and storage for rolling stock maintenance.. The 'rails' are made from 1/4" square redwood (just because I had redwood on hand) strips pinned to the top. I just laid out a straight line, then used my pneumatic pinner to fasten the first strip down. Used a track gauge to set the next 'rail' to gauge, and a wider block to set the next 'rail' to my desired clearance. This clearance was set wider than what I use on the RR, as I want to be able to pick up cars and engines to work on them.

I am currently replacing a 25 year old fence with all new pressure treated wood. I don't even store the PT material inside, and do all the cutting and drilling outside wearing a dust mask. As to the purpose for PT material, it has a lower cost and better life in ground contact than the currently available commercial redwood.

BTW, I do use pressure treated materials for sub-structures on retaining walls and other construction on the RR, but these are not where they are contacted by operators or visitors. I usually use redwood for the face construction, such as simulated cribbing.

Happy RRing,

Jerry


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, the Peanut Gallery remark had nothing to do with the replies about about using PT lumber. I created this thread for peoples opinions about using PT lumber and appreciate the help. Comments regarding my ability to figure this out on my own were not appreciated.


----------



## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Randy, if you are referring to my 'emoticons' posted they were in regard to the already mentioned toxicity of the material in question. A light hearted joke. Had nothing to do with your ability to work things out.
I would use 1/2" ply with saw cuts to guide the rails because boards tend to warp and buckle but depends on how they are secured and braced. If they buckle your rolling stock could have the annoying tendency to roll along the shelves and fall off the end. 

By the way, Happy New Year.

Andrew


----------



## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

Randy

I have been using 1 x 6 x 6 ceder fence boards for a lot of projects.
Shelves, bridges, bents & buildings.
You may have to dig through the pile some, but at under $3.00 each it's worth it to me.

Just an idea to try and help save $


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Andrew, I have no issue with anything you stated.


----------



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Jim, I'll check them out.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy,
To add to the evidence that PT lumber is nasty, take a look at how a boat lift is put together. The top of the PT wood pilings has a thick rubber pad under the metal lift beams to prevent corrosive action.

I first noticed this when checking out a neighbor's lift. The pads had gone in places, and the metal beams were 1/2 corroded through.


----------

