# Quick build a station roller.



## Gary To (Jan 5, 2008)

Due to lack of a large track layout, I can't run and charge my large scale train periodically, as my friend Tony wants some station rollers for running his live steam C19, I decided to build some by myself, I know there are some station roller sell on the market, I enjoy DIY and I can make more in a low cost. 
Those 2” aluminum L beam were pre-cut and bought from a metal shop









Assembly with rivets.









Testing the bearing function, tsupporting for the heavier USAT BigBoy.

















I done around 16 units of it.


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## Gary To (Jan 5, 2008)

The cost for built one is around 3 dollars, good price!!!! Hope you all enjoy those photos. Gary To


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Great idea and photos Gary.

I've been wanting to do something like that myself - got as far as asking the guys in the workshop to save me old bearings (cause I'm cheap) but no further.

Looks like I may have to restart the project, and I have a sheet of 8mm bakelite sitting in the workshop waiting to be useful..









Cheers
Neil


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## HLandBRR (Feb 5, 2010)

That's awesome. Thanks for sharing that.


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great! Where did you get the bearings? I found 608 ZZ, 2Z, 2rs and others. Does it matter which suffix?


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Michael,

Not for the ones you mention - they describe the seals. 2rs is fine.. 608 is the size, anything about there will do, I was thinking of using 6201's


*Z* Shield on one side. *ZZ* Shields on two sides. *RS* Rubber seal on one side. *2RS* Rubber seals on two sides. 


Cheers
Neil


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I didn't think I would need a set. But now that I seen yours and how easy it is to build them I think I will make me a set Thanks for the inspiration.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for info. Nice job and the price is right compared to what is available out there now. Later RJD


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By barnmichael on 05 Feb 2010 09:28 PM 
Looks great! Where did you get the bearings? I found 608 ZZ, 2Z, 2rs and others. Does it matter which suffix? 
As Neil said, the suffix is the shield or seal. Shielded bearings will have less turning drag than rubber seals and are all you need for a roller stand.
You'll also see things like "ABEC-1", "-5" and "-7", which are grades of precision. ABEC-1 is the cheapest and all you need for this. 

The "8" in size 608 is the 8mm ID. The shielded version of this bearing is probably the cheapest bearing available because it is used in skateboards and scooters. Google "608 bearing" and you'll find plenty of sources.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Gary, 

Amazingly cool! Beyond my meager shop skills but really neat and inspirational. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

If you don't think you can drill the holes, just buy some "corner brackets" at the hardware store. They look just like what are shown here but have the two holes per side already drilled.

Bearings/rollers can also be had from the "Sliding Screen Door repair parts dept.". Just make sure you get ones with a relatively flat 'tread' area and a small enough diameter to fit in the space allowed by the distance between the corner bracket holes.


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## robteed (Jun 23, 2010)

[No message]


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

I just happen to have a box of bearings that will work for this project. It's amazing how easy it is when somebody else shows you the way







Mine won't need to be isolated as I use battery power only, easier still.
Thanks Gary.
Rod


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