# Removing LGB Joiners



## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

Just got some new LGB track and want to connect it with clamps. What is the easiest way to remove the joiners from the track?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I drill out the divit on the bottom, and then spread the top of the joiner. Then with a strong pull with pliers they come off real easy for me.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

The joiners have a bend at the end which fits into a hole in the track they are attached to. You just need to figure out how to handle that tab.


What I did was to take a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend the part that folds over the bottom of the track to approximately 90 degrees. Then the joiners just fall off. If you want to put them back you insert the tab into the hole and then bend the parts over the bottom of the track.


This is of course only good for couple of off-on cycles before the metal weakens.


Hope it helps. Good luck.


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## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

I am thinking if I just stick a small screwdriver underneath to clear the dimple, and then just push the track back into the ties. I should then be able to take the joiner off and slide the track back.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That won't work well... there's often things that make the rails unable to slide.



I spread the joiner with pliers, flatten it out, and twist down and pull, takes less time than it took to type this.


Greg


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## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

Yeah, I think I have to give up on the idea of removing them non-destructively.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, you never mentioned you wanted to remove them without destroying them.


That is a different question. You use a dremel to cut the bent down tab away from the joiner, sometimes you need something to break the spot weld if it exists, and then pull off the joiner.


They are not worth trying to save...


Greg


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

If you don't mind the looks of the joiners, you can also use clamps that go *over* the joiners, ie leave the joiners in place and add the appropriate type of clamps.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

But the over the joiner clamps have been shown to be inferior to clamps right on the rails.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Clamps on the rails 'dig' in to the rails for better electrical contact. And it is easier to get both rail ends covered with a paste that prevents corrosion.


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## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

I already have the clamps. I am using the proline brass clamps and soldering my connection wires right to the clamps. I have some silicon thermal grease I am going to put in the screw holes to keep solder/flux from getting in.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

look:





















































seems, that they cant show pics today.

http://kormsen.info/how/bilder/binder1.JPG

http://kormsen.info/how/bilder/binder2.JPG

http://kormsen.info/how/bilder/binder3.JPG

http://kormsen.info/how/bilder/binder4.JPG


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## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

Thanks, everyone!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I can remove them without sliding the rail, open and flatten the joiner and bend down and pull.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

It is very difficult to slide the rail on the 4 foot LGB straight sections, and for LGB switches also. I use a strong set of pliers and pull real hard after drilling the divit and spreading the sides of the joiner.


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## jnovak46 (Nov 6, 2013)

I have found success in drilling out the dimple in the bottom of the joiner with a 1/8" drill. The joiner simply slides off. Careful not to drill more than necessary - just through the joiner.


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## SRLGBer (Dec 31, 2014)

I just replaced 40 old slip on joiners with the TrainLi Pro -Line rail clamps. Very simple to do. I did these with my existing track in place in the yard while still laying in the gravel ballast. I took a flat blade screw driver and pried both sides of the original joiner away from the rail and then was able to push the joiner down into the gravel (helps to remove a tablespoon amount of gravel to allow the joiner to bend down) and then it slips out of the tie. A word of caution though, wear gloves and if possible use needle nose pliers to help bend the connector downward and out of the tie. Ask me why. Place the new brass joiner underneath the rails and drop the 2 screws into place and tighten. For electrical connections I used their small silver tabs that screw under the rail or at least under the screw head and presolder my new wires to connect my digital wireless switch controllers. These are the best track connectors as you can access them from above and not have to worry about buildings or other obstructions and from getting down to ground level with a screw driver and digging your knuckles into the gravel. Turnouts are easier to do off the ground and require 6 connectors which allow the turnout to be easily taken out of the layout at any time to clean or work on. The only way I've found to save the original brass connectors is to take a hammer and a small block of wood and with pliers holding the connector, tap the rail out of the line of ties. This works on straight and curved track but I haven't found a way to do this on turnouts due to the frogs and such preventing the track from moving.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jnovak46: The tab that is 90 degrees to the joiner and goes down into the tie makes it impossible that "The joiner simply slides off"... it takes force and a twisting to get that tab out of the tie, or if you don't twist it upwards, then you have to rip part of the tie off to get that tab out.


I'm saying this because after all the discussion, no part of this "simply slides off"...


Greg


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## KeithRB (Sep 25, 2015)

I have 2 foot sections, so sliding the rail should not be hard. 
SLRGBer:
I hesitate to use the solder lug they supply since I feel it keeps the rail from contacting the joiner. I think my method of soldering a wire to the joiner works really well, as long as you don't get solder into the threaded holes.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Due to the temperature extremes, soldering will not hold long term here in Southern New England. -20F to over 100 during the year and this does not allow for the hot sun making the rails go over 120 degrees F. Solder joints 'crack' here in the outdoors. Also when using the traili joiners for power, never place the tab on the bottom/under the rail.


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