# LGB smoke...Alternative smoke fluids?



## zoro (Feb 8, 2010)

I've got an LGB Stainz and Atlas that both appear to be equipped with smoke. Don't see a switch to turn the smoke on/off, do I just add the smoke fluid and go? If so how much?

Also, are there any good home made recipes for smoke fluid? Nearest hobby store is quite a ways away and I'd like to see if the smoke function works on both locomotives before I order something online.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

It depends on the vintage of your engine. Some of the early LGB engines had a slide switch on the bottom of the stack at the underside of the engine. This was a small bar that could be rotated to on and off. On many LGB steamers the heater was on all the time, no switch. On most of my engines I cut one of the wires and installed either a switch behind the smoke box door or some plugs that could be disconnected, as needed. As far as smoke fluid goes, I have used charcoal lighter fluid for years. Chuck PS I started disconnecting the smoke heating element when the stack on one of my moguls started to list. The heat caused the plastic to deform.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I am the same way, I dont use the smoke much, bothers my asthma, so I install a slide switch or micro toggle switch from Radio shack in an out of site location where I can turn the smoke on or off as needed. For fluid, I get the cheapest I can pickup at the shows when I am out. I do not know of any homebrew smoke fluid that doesnt stink to high heaven. Recently I decided to remove track power from the layouts, I went to engines that make thier own real steam exhaust. I am fortunate to be close to several good hobby shops, but you could always mail order or get some from ebay if need be. Mike


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I just got some mega-steam fluid, works real well. Seems a bit gray also, I got the coal fired smell. www.megasteam.com


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

i use, primarily outside, a 50/50 mix of clear torch oil and bbq fluid- 

it works very very well, produces a bit more smoke than genuine LGB, 

has yet to harm anything after about two years, ie paint work or smoker unit 
howevr, unlike LGB , it leaves a thin trace, when spilled, probably the parrafin in the torch oil-it is esaily cleaned- 
but, unlike the real stuff, it does not dry absolutely clean, so it is unsuitable for cleaning track or locos 

note: do not overfill the smoke unit-1/3 is plenty-this is about 15 drops or so 
if you overfill it either will smoke poorly or not at all (until the fluid level drops sufficiently to permit it to vaporize) 

presuming you have an 18 volt or higher smoker, which would be the norm in any stainz, you need to apply at least 9 or more volts to get some smoke, the higher the voltage (up to 22v) the more smoke) 

dont touch or monkey with the center post heater element-it is fragile-if its busted, wiggling it wont help-it you wiggle it, its like to break 
and dont touch it while hot with a plastic dropper tip, as it will melt and perhaps gum things up if you get it just right 

the atlas, unless owner modded, wont have an off switch 
and only late stainzs, #2 cab, will have one in the cab, otherwise its the swong switch mentiond above-


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I have a recent "Stainz" locomotive, part of the starter set with steam and sound. It has 3 on the sides of the cab. There's a three-position switch inside the cab; the options are completely off, run + smoke, and run + smoke + sound. So the smoke is on whenever the locomotive is running. 

Mine needs 15+ volts to the track before it begins to smoke, about 3.5 on the starter set throttle. This is faster than I like to run, but I get no smoke at lower speeds. I plan to convert to digital, which I expect to improve the smoke, as full voltage is available all the time.


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## zoro (Feb 8, 2010)

Mine is a #3, I'll look for the switch inside the cab.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By BigRedOne on 19 Dec 2012 05:13 PM 
I have a recent "Stainz" locomotive, part of the starter set with steam and sound. It has 3 on the sides of the cab. There's a three-position switch inside the cab; the options are completely off, run + smoke, and run + smoke + sound. So the smoke is on whenever the locomotive is running. 

Mine needs 15+ volts to the track before it begins to smoke, about 3.5 on the starter set throttle. This is faster than I like to run, but I get no smoke at lower speeds. I plan to convert to digital, which I expect to improve the smoke, as full voltage is available all the time. 

If you don't mind doing some electrical alterations to your Stainz, you can install Dc-DC voltage reducers or step ups. They are all over Ebay. Mostly from China. They are polarity sensative however, so you would only be able to run in one direction without harming the device. They are rather small and will fit into the cab nicely.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can add a full wave bridge rectifier to the input and make it polarity insensitive... a couple of bucks from Radio Shack. 

Greg


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