# Is there an easier way to cut openings in 1/8" styrene?



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Does anyone know of an easier way to cut openings for windows and doors in thick (1/8") styrene? Cutting through it with an X-acto is difficult at best. I've been scoring the edges with the knife, then sort of grinding it out with a drill bit in a Dremel. That's a bit faster but I can never keep the edges straight or the corners square.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray; 

I have no experience with that thickness on my own, but perhaps you could get the slot started for a very short distance with the drill, then use one of those "nibblers" sold through Micro Mark. There was also some kind of cordless rotary cutting tool reviewed in the August issue of Garden Railways. It used a bit similar to a drill bit. I can't remember whether it could be set for rpms that were slow enough for plastic. Anyway, a couple of possible tools. 

Yours, 
David Meashey


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Try using a rotary saw blade chucked in a drill press. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole, then stick the styrene onto the rotary saw blade (coincidentally 1/8"), then bring the work table of the drill press up so you can rest the styrene on the table to guide it as the saw cuts it. I just did some new cab walls for a loco I'm rebuilding for my dad last night using that method, and it worked very well. Cut to just within the edge of the line, then clean up with a file for smooth sides. I was cutting two .100" sheets laminated together, so 1/8" should be no issue at all. You'll find the blade wants to cut in certain directions due to the rotation, try on a scrap piece first so you get used to controlling the styrene against the cutting bit. From then on, it's very simple. 

Later, 

K


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I've been successful cutting plastic sheet-goods using an oscillating tool such as a Fein MultiMaster . The real "trick" has been proper blade choice, the tool's speed and feed rate; too fast and the plastic melts, too slow and the blade has a tendency to wander. A bit of practice on scrap helped get everything just right.

There are now a bunch of manufactures (including Harbor Freight) of this type of tool since Fein's patent expired a couple of years ago.

Hope this helps.

Mark


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

A small hobby table saw bring the blade up through from the inside. Will work if you don't plan on finishing the inside, RAY not finishing the insides, I must be nuts, oh well it might work for someone else. 
Keep up the good work Ray, love your modeling. 
Look into this saw https://bladerunner.buytvtools.com/1/?leadsource=PS182&gclid=CO7q0buOkasCFcxdTAodVg3EMQ&s_kwcid=TC|6221|saw%20as%20seen%20on%20TV||S|b|7387984219 
It looks like it might work 
Dennis


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I use this miniature scroll saw from Micro-Mark. 









You can clamp a straight edge in place to guide it.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I've just drilled out the corners and in a single hole in the middle, scored between the drill holes and snapped the window/door out if it was big enough to get a pair of pliers in. Then I finished with a file. Otherwise I've just drilled all the way around, and then filed smooth. Takes a bit of time but it works. Kevin's idea sounds interesting and easy to use. 
Craig


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

For hand tools thinner styrene the drill score snap technic works but thicker stuff its better to drill score then use an xacto saw blade for thier regular handle and cut along the score line. Can't help with the corners other than use a good flat file to keep it square.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Today it occurred to me I could use a jewelers saw, probably the cheapest option. But that little scroll saw from MicroMark looks pretty handy too, I'll have to check that out.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had pretty good luck routing openings with a bearing-guided carbide bit. Very fast and clean-edged. You'll need a template to follow, but that can be built up with sticks and glue. Use a small bit (I use 1/8") and square up the corners with a file. 

Suggest experimenting with router RPM on a scrap to find best cutting speed. 

Steve Seitel


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Steve, 
Good idea. I wonder if a small router bit in a dremel would also work good. That way it would be a little easier to control both speed and cutting wise. Good tip! 
Craig


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Having spent lotsa time cutting 21 window and two door openings in the styrene sheet for my small hotel project (it's about 75% finished), I know whereof I speak. Because I was doing this away from home, I had to rely on mostly hand tools, except for the electric drill I used to start the pilot hole in the middle of each window opening and for the small holes I drilled in each corner of the window. I used a drywall saw (I think that's what it is) to cut diagonally from the center to each corner, then scribed lines from corner to corner, outlining the window. Placing my finger in the center hole I flexed each of the four triangular pieces until each one snapped at the scribe mark. Once I got the knack of it, it went fairly quickly. The most tedius part was the scribing, as I found it takes about a half-dozen passes to sufficiently score the styrene sheet. I didn't spend a lot of time truing up the cuts, as I figured the window frames would cover my mistakes. That was a bad idea and I'll never do that again, as the windows I made are awful and I am ashamed to let anyone examine them up close. 

Last year, I used a scroll saw to cut window openings (you still have to start with a pilot hole), but I found it tedious unhooking the blade each time I needed to put it into the hole. The saw hasn't been used since. 

I like Bruce's idea of using that little Micro-Mark hand-held scroll saw. 

BTW, nice story In GR, Ray.


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

If the seams won't be a problem, I assemble the wall from strips and rectangles. Then reenforce the back of the seams with scrap styrene. 
No nibbling, drilling or filing. Works for horizontal siding or under veneer or stucco. 

Harvey C.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Harvey has a good point. I have seen this technique used in HO (it's mentioned in some of the Kalmbach how-to books) and have tried it myself, although not for an entire building, just on an end wall where I messed up the roof pitch and had to tack on a new piece. It works fine and there's no problem with rigidity if you are "gluing" Precision Plastic siding over the base material. The only thing I'm not sure about is how much you lose in the cutting process and if the pieces are the same dimension when you put 'em back together. But then, we're talking 1:20.3, so how much difference can 1/64-inch make? 

Personally, I am eager to buy/try that little pocket scroll saw Bruce mentioned. If for no other reason than I need more power tools, which are what made America great!


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I know this is not the answer you are looking for, but why don't you use 1/8" (3 mil) Luan plywood also known as "door skins". I use it all the time in my large scale models. It is great and easy to work with. It can be sawn, drilled and routed easily with clean edges. It's also cheaper per sq ft than styrene. The only way you will get repeatable results is to use a template and router. Styrene doesn't respond well to routers.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By joe rusz on 10 Sep 2011 01:22 PM 
Harvey has a good point. I have seen this technique used in HO (it's mentioned in some of the Kalmbach how-to books) and have tried it myself, although not for an entire building, just on an end wall where I messed up the roof pitch and had to tack on a new piece. It works fine and there's no problem with rigidity if you are "gluing" Precision Plastic siding over the base material. The only thing I'm not sure about is how much you lose in the cutting process and if the pieces are the same dimension when you put 'em back together. But then, we're talking 1:20.3, so how much difference can 1/64-inch make? 

Personally, I am eager to buy/try that little pocket scroll saw Bruce mentioned. If for no other reason than I need more power tools, which are what made America great! 
If you ever see it in stock, try the drill!








It's VERY handy as it has low RPM (140-1540) and lots of torque. I also have their little mini-belt sander. Wonderful tools.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Those square corner chisels would work good.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry, 
I have a larger square chisel that Micro Mark sells and it only works on very thin styrene (up to .040). I've tried on both 1/16" and 1/8" and it just messes everything up. The other problem I've found with them is that they only do the corners. So you still have to score a straight edge on bigger windows and doors. The 1/8" stuff is just way to much for a corner chisel (at least the one I have) to punch through. Not trying to be mean but just sharing my experiences! 
Craig


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Ray
I use one of these.
 
At $75.00 for a 12 x 24 inch sheet 2 mm thick. You get a lot of windows and doors.
$75.00 may seem like a lot of money but when you add up your time, materials and frustration it becomes very reasonable.
Alan 
THE GAL LINE[/i]


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I think what Alan i saying is that he can cut them out for you on his laser cutter? Still need to work on my drawings to get him to cut some stuff out for me. 


Chas


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