# KITBASHED ARISTO COVERED HOPPER



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Ok, this is what I've been up to rather than working on the layout. Too much rain lately--so we do indoor projects. This was supposed to be a simple repaint of an Aristo covered 2 bay hopper into this: 








This is the stock car lowered, with KD's and I replaced the friction bearing trucks with more modern rollerbearings (aristocraft as well). 








The more I looked at the car the more changes I felt were needed/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif" border=0>" border=0> So after some new grab irons, new roof walk and rearranging the roof hatches and scratch building the latches, and stripping the lettering we have this, washed and ready for primer/paint: 








Several days later and a coat of Krylon grey primer and then a great color I found at Wally World--Kryolon Celery. It looks like a great match for the FEC MoW light green (the prototype photo above is not quite right--it looks too grey, but I have seen the prototype and it is green) 








The decals were done on MS Publisher and printed on decal paper from Micro Mark on my Inj jet printer. I am not as happy with the printing of this printer (a Brother) as compared to others I have printed on my HP that died. But this is the first set I printed on clear decal paper vs. the white paper I have used in the past. But up close you can see the print rows, I think I will play with the settings in the future. 
I finished decaling the car tonight. 








Next is a flat clear coat and move on to weathering and final detaling. 
I promise when it stops raining some time in November I will continue work over on the Meadley Branch layout and post updates there." border=0>" border=0> 
Matt


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

That looks really good Matt. Good job on the roof and add ons. Nice decal job too.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

That's a great job! Details, decals and all.


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

You have achieved a very realistic looking car Matt. Good Show. 
Just think if our RR models were tin and not plastic we could achieve that effect naturally by leaving them out in the rain. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks for all the comments. I just need to get home early enough after work to get a good flat coat on the car to start weathering--ain't no fun without dirt and rust!! 

Quick question, I am not happy with the break wheel that came on this car, anyone know of a source of a modern break wheel--Ozark seems to only have NG styles in 1/20.3 or 1/22.5? 

Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Ah my favorite part has come--weathering--nothing like rust and dirt 
I suspect I over did it a bit--but I like the look, need to learn more self control. 








And the top: 








This is 2 washes for dirt and depth, then dry burshing for rust. Next will be some weathering powder for better depth. 

Stay tuned to this channel for more updates (assuming of course I don't get hit with a hurricane/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif) 

Matt


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

Looks very good! I don't think you can over do it on weathering. I worked for a railroad for 35 years and their are some pretty ruff cars out there.


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## Guest (Aug 17, 2008)

That weathering is great "need to learn more self control" control! 
Toad


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks guys. Want to break out the airbrush for the "road grime" today. But need to spend the morning preparing for a hurricane--what a drag./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif Maybe this afternoon  

Matt


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Look good Dr.G..... I spary paint weathered with red dark primer, camo brown and flat black make look better of weathered covered hopper car from Aristo. 

BEFORE 









AFTER


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## Guest (Aug 17, 2008)

Your a sick man and so am I....I LOVE IT!!!!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif 
You have a video of you doing that, since you have long train vids??? 
Toad 
I am in love, Santa Fe All The Way....


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Bryan, 

That is awsome, did you use the Krylon camo colors? The only ones I can find now have the "fusion" in them and folks around here seem to think that is a problem? Let me know if yours have "Fusion" on the label--and if you are happy with them. 

Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Ok we are getting close here. Got the car back together after some weathering chalk. Decided to put the car back together and then I'll put the final road grime. The trucks are still in primer, those will need to wait until Fay has left the state./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif 

























I really do not like that break wheel--too thick and not round./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/ermm.gif Anyone know of a more scale break wheel available? 

Matt


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Dr.G, Yes it is Krylon camo colors spray paint i use like sand & Dirt.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Bryan, 

Do your cans have that "FUSION" label on them? 

Matt


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

OH i forgot Dr.G! YES it have Fusion! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

the Krylon Fusion camo i use called "Khaki" color good for sand & dirt color for your weathered. Dr.G


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Guess I'm gonna have to go get me a few cans at the hardware store. 

Thanks Bryan.


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2008)

Dr. G, man that is a sweet car! Your a man after my own rusty heart!!! Very nice thread. 
I tried the chalks but I am not good at/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif Any one want them you can have them chalks email me./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/pinch.gif 
Toad


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## Bob Vaughn (Jan 5, 2008)

Dr. G 
Looks like your weather is going to be kinda crappy tomorrow....better put this car some where it is safe..../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Toad, 
I do not use regular chalk or pastels, I am using something called AIM weathering powder. They are some kind of pigment and an adhesive. The darker colors work best (the rust colors, earth and grimy black). The light colors are not as effective, but do work on dark colors. 
You can order them direct, and although apparently expensive, a little goes a LONG way in my experience. I use a combination of a short flat brush that I cut the bristles down on and foam cosmetic wedges I swiped from my wifes cosmetic bag (don't tell her). 
Here is a link to the web site: 
http://www.aimprodx.com/index.php?page=powders 
Matt 

ps What is the code to get a link active--I just can't remember?


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2008)

Dr. G, 
I bought Doc O'brien's powders and the way they sad to mix rust turned into a night mare. I am new to powders and it really turned me off because if you have to mix 4 powders to make rust I think my air brush can shoot once with several mess ups which I would drag right off the bat with a brush. Worked before./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/plain.gif 
Might be powder is not for me. 
Toad


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Not sure about the Doc O brien's, but my aim powders have several labeled light and dark rust--I just use 'em striaght? Mixing 4 together? Sounds like a lot of work to me as well. 

For what it is worth the majority of the rust on this car was dry brushed and stippled on with old acrylic paint--burnt umber and raw sienna. The raw sienna 1st followed by the darker burnt umber. Seems rust is best simulated with light color 1st followed by dark. The theory, as I understand it, is that light rust is newer, and toward the outside margins, and dark rust is older and in the middle. 

No airbursh yet!! I have 2 and will be using them shortly. 

Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Not a lot of progress, but we measure in small steps (no pun intended here" border=0>) I must admit this is one of my brighter ideas that has actually worked. I wanted the stirup (sp?) steps to be more scale, but could not break off the first time I ran the car--so I made them of brass strip I cut with a pair of tin snips and BOLTED them to the body of the car. Hay if the prototype can do this so can I. They are suprisingly strong--and yes, I have tried to knock them off!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif" border=0> 








Let me know what ya think--anyone got another way of doing this that has stood the test of time (read operation outside)? This is purely experimental at this point. 
Matt


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2008)

Dr. G, 
Wow, you tried to knock them off! Your lot braver than I  They do look nice I have to say. 
Toad


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

What can I tell you Toad--quality control Meadley Branch (my RR's name) style--flick it, if it don't fall off its good! 

Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Getting close. I still think it needs a little touch up to tie it all together and I am still waiting for the air hoses from Ozark, but essentially done. I'll try to get better photos outside tomorow--the lighting inside makes everything a little orange. 










Thanks for riding along. Next project is awaiting, can't wait to get started. 

Matt


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2008)

Hey Dr. G, 
There was a write up on how to make air hoses out of electric wire on here awhile back but not sure where. 
Myself I lost that data when "big john" (computer) went South one day on me. It is on here some where thou. 
I am waiting for the next ride along! This time I will be sure to bring train riding money " border=0> Toad



Note, found thread http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi.../1/view/topic/postid/12627/Default.aspx#13210


How do you make these URLs clickable?


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