# Radius for best future??????



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Planning an outdoor layout. I currently have the Bachmann Spectrum 4-4-0, Climax and two truck Shay. I was planning on going with 4 foot radius (8' dia) 1/4 turns. However, if I later add a 2-8-0, K-27 or others, will the 4' radius work? Should I consider moving up to 5' or does that really make much difference? How about other engines? I don't think I will ever really be interested in those huge USA modern engines.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, between 8 foot and 10 foot diameter can make a big difference. If you always run short locos and trains, 8 foot works on many locos, but 10 foot is much better... 

I run standard gauge, so I have 80' passenger cars and my minimum is 10 foot and I'm glad I did it... 

Basically go the largest you can, and then squeeze up to the next size, you will be happy. 

What you have now will be fine operationally, but everything looks better on wider curves. 

Regards, Greg


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Greg's right as I have also said before 10ft will make you a happy trainer!! Hah LOL run almost anything especially if your interests change to bigger steam or dash 9 diesels. Wish I would have went 20 ft. Regal


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

Bigger does not always mean better, but here's case where it does... Put in the biggest radius 
possible, if Ur like the rest of us, it'll turn out to be a smart move down the road...
Paul R...


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with going with the larger diameter as you may also have friends come over and may want to run but they may have the larger locos so now you can accommodate them also. Later RJD


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## R Snyder (May 12, 2009)

I would strongly urge you to go to the largest radius possible. I have also had good luck with #6 switches.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's my 2c... 

Broad sweeping curves are good -IF- 1. you have the space. 2. you have the $$$$$ 

-otherwise- 

Don't break the budget or limit yourself to a big oval....


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Wider is _not necessarily_ Better...its only a general rule. For space planning any of those engines will work for 8' diameter (4' Radius) heck most of those will work on 6.5' diameter or even 5' diameter. Myself I think using the widest radius is secondary to using what fits the space best. Sure you could use 20' diameter curves but depending on your available space you also end up with a giant but very boring circle, PLAN your layout and USE whatever curvature that allows you to acheive that vision you may find your using a mix of 8'D, 10'D even some 6.5'D or even 5'D if you need a very tight corner somewhere and broader 12' or even 20' diameters elsewhere for those broad sweeping curves. Plan around your biggest anticipated engine and then design the layout accordingly


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I started with 4' diameter (2' radius) and found I could run some locos but was limited. I now have a minimum of 8' diameter (4' radius) and can run most locos and rolling stock available, except for some of the really long locos, like a big boy. If I had the space I'd go bigger than 8' diameter just because I think the train would look more prototypical on even larger curves. So I'm with the others that say go with the biggest you can fit in your space.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm in agreement with those above. An 0-4-0 can negotiate the same curves as an Allegheny (and look good doing it) but the Allegheny can not do the reverse. It is also difficult to change the radius later. (I've done it. Don't advise it)


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## coyote97 (Apr 5, 2009)

and for more: diameter is not the only trick.

1.) be carefull with the bigger and "better" rolling stock of bachmann spectrum and AMS. There are some cars (especially the passenger coaches) that really needs 8 ft diameter. 
2.) NEVER build direct "S"-shaped curves.
3.) ALWAYS use a straight track of 8-10 inches between the curves of an "S".
4.) cover your curve-diameter with a trick: when your locos and stuff run through 8 ft dia, u can use this dia even when u have the space to build a 10 or 12 ft dia-curve.
"stretch" your curve by starting with a very wide diameter (about 20 or 25 ft.). Then use a more sharp dia (10 ft.) then go to the 8 ft dia just in the middle angles(peak) of your curve. Give it an exit the same way.
That looks very smooth though. For Model-Standardgauge Mainlines it is recommended to use at least 5 or 6 steps of "sharping" in to a curve. I think for a narrow gauge line its not neccessary. but 2 or 3 steps is fine.

That method makes very smooth curves that allows your cars and loco to "go into" the curve. Couplers do find a much smoother movement and dont tend to hook in somewhere else. With this, u can use the sharpest diameter in the peak of your curve but it looks nevertheless very fine.

Example:
I have a turning loop in my station and it goes in a very sharp (1175mm---short 8 ft dia.) s-shaped curve through a curved switch, including a major incline-change from 2% up to 4% down. (have pics on my site, take a look at the link below in the "pictures" section).
The AMS Passengers dont make a direct 8 ft-"S", i tried it.
with a straight track of just about 4 or 5 inches and a wider curvature of just about 5 or 6 degrees with ..say...12 ft. diameter on both sides it works.

Its a hard thing, though! But now, as it works, i can go through doubleheaded with a pushing loco, up or down, pushing, pulling, never had problems with it.

Greetings

Frank 





Greetings

Frank


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## coyote97 (Apr 5, 2009)

oh, how embarrassing.....***blush

the "pictures"-section is called "images", and there is no pic of that curved switch....sorry. I try to attach here..... 










not too good the view, but the left going track of the switch turn sharp right and meets the station-tracks. 

On the right side (What is my "mainline) of the switch u can see, the switch curve makes an outer diameter of about 12 ft what gives my exit of the 8 ft diameter-loop. After the 12 ft. switch diameter, there is a further section of about 20 ft. diameter, a straight part and then a smooth right-turning curve while the line goes uphill 

Frank


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I can see the answer is when doing the landscaping rock wall which is permanent, plan for a 10' if at all possible. Thanks to all..


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## tbar (Jan 26, 2009)

10' here too....more reallistic also


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