# What size styrene to buy?



## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

Hello all, 
If you were to purchase bulk styrene to make models (windows, doors, walls, etc) what thicknesses would you buy?


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich

For the windows, I would think you'd still need to buy the strip styrene because it hard to keep thin cuts even. Not that it can't be done, but I'm not sure the time invested would be worth it. Have you taken a look at the methods used by MLS members Peter Bunce's Making 1/20th Scale Sash Windows[/b] or Bruce Chandler's Building Windows[/b] articles, or some of the ideas on "Yogi" Wallace's web site Making Windows for your Structures[/b].

For the doors, it's going to depend on the type of doors and on the architectural style you're trying to reproduce, and in addition are they to be operable.

For the walls, styrene may not be the most inexpensive or best way to accomplish the task. Have you taken a look at Bruce Chandler's current topic C. M. Oates Company[/b] over in the Buildings forum. Where he's using 1/4" Sintra (Kemotex PVC Board) for the walls. Another option is to use polycarbonate as the base (walls etc.) that way you've already got the clear "glass" as an intergral part of the structure. You can see application of this method and others in Section II - Structures Along the Port Orford Coast Railroad[/b], which starts on page 70 of the Evolution of the Port Orford Railroad article.

As for the thickness to buy I would say getting 0.5mm (.020"), 1mm (.040"), and 2mm (.080") would give you a good start, but again this is dependent on just exactly what you're building. Hopefully some of the above will be found of use.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

In my experience with stryene building you never can have the 'right' size. Just when you think that you have the right thickness for your project you discover that you need a piece that is +/- .010" from what you have. I never throw away any scraps, but just accumulate them in a big box for use someday. If your just starting out I would suggest to buy something that is close to scale lumber sizes 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 etc. But like I said that's just a start. 
Craig


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

I have been scratchbuilding and casting in "G" scale for almost 20 years. Styrene is my medium of choice. I have almost everything Evergreen makes and usually 2 or more packages of each. I even have the rack, but out grew it this past fall and had to make a cabinet to hold it all. I suggest buying the sizes you need plus 2 other packages every time. This will build up your supply. There is nothing worse than working on a project only to find you either do not have the size you need or you are 1 piece short. I know, I've done it. 

Just my $10.00 worth (the price of the 3 packages of styrene) 

Ray


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

All, thanks for the tips and suggestions. This helps get me started. While we are here what do you use to glue the styrene together?


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich

For styrene I usually use MEK which I buy at Home Depot/Lowe's etc. paint department in 1 qt. metal can, it will last you for about the next century more or less. But make sure to use it in a well ventilated area.

Again, the adhesive used can depend on the actual type of plastic that being used. A good reference is TAP Plastics[/b] a MLS forum sponsor.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By bcer960 on 08 Feb 2011 07:22 PM 


Just my $10.00 worth (the price of the 3 packages of styrene) 

I've been amazed at the price increases of styrene over the past years. I remember it being around 89 cents, then up to 1.25, then 1.50 and now depending on the package it's 2.99 or more. But then again it's a petroleum product so as oil goes up so does everything else. 
BTW was the rack worth it? 

Craig


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

I don't remember the styrene being below $1.00. I just took a really quick look and I still have a package of "HO scale 1X4" that I bought at $1.15. Today it's around $3.27 here. The rack is definatly worth it, since I got it for free about 7 years ago.A local hobby shop was going out of buisness. The owner told that everything on the rack was 50% off and if it was empty before he shut down, I could have the rack. Every payday I went in there and bought as much as I could afford. One day I went back and it was closed for good. I got this rack about 2 years later from a craft store about 3 hours drive from my house. I did not get the # cards with it and had to make my own. In the end I found that I had too much of the long, 24" , packages, and because the rack did not fit in my model room, so it was a pain to go through 1 room into another room every time I wanted something. If someone wants a Evergreen styrene rack minus the cards, it yours, come get it......I'll even throw in the Evergreen cataloge. 

But seriosly, the rack was great because I knew what was availlable and what I had at a quick glance.Everything got put back because it was easy to find the spot for it. And to replace it I had to build a cabinet with 19 drawers 1 1/2" high that hold 9 packages each. It was alot of work, but now it is right beside my work table.And guess what... there is still no room for my 24" packages.

Ray 

If someone can use the rack and wants to come to Kamloops B.C Canada to pick it up, or pay shipping.. it's yours


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I formally worked at a hobby shop so with the discount styrene was under a $1.00, but I can recall having to reprice the styrene every 6 months or so it seemed like! 
But I wasn't doing much scratch building then so I didn't buy much. Oh the hind sight.


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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

I agree with the buy it all sentiment. I've done that over the years and now when I open the last package of a particular size I add it to the list of 'to buy' at the hobby store. As for brands, for strips and angles I really like Evergreen. For other shapes Plastruct has a much better and wider selection. Sheets are best bought at a local plastics supplier if available. Again get as many sizes as possible. I like Rays idea of, to start, buy what you need plus a couple extras. It'll add up quick enough. I usually use Testors plastic cement in the bottle (M.E.K. basically). But do have a can of MEK for big jobs. 

Here's how I store mine on pegboard. The bottom row of hooks has strips in each size. From left, .01, .015, .02, .03, .04, .06, .08, .10, .125
The top row is various shapes, angles, 'Z's, tubes, rods, etc.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm with Brian on this. I have one of those plastic bins--the kind they you put your Xmas wrapping paper rolls in--and it's fillled with about three-dozen different sizes of Evergreen strip. I keep a list of sizes so when I run out I'm sure to buy more. As for sheet, I got lots of those too--Evergreen packs in thinner sizes for making doors and stuff and 3 x 4 foot sheets of 0.80 and 0.100 for making walls. I noticed that some guys use thick stuff for walls but the problem is the thick stuff is hard to cut window holes in. I've cut 'em with a knife (really tedious) and a scroll saw, but you have to be carefull because those saw blades oscillate pretty fast, which will melt and gum up the styrene. I know that some of the guys use clear acrylic for walls, which means you don't have to cut out the windows--just glue the frames on the clear acrylic. But I like real openings and the way you can recess a window frame into the wall so it looks more realistic. Let's see, I also have lots of Precision Plastic sheet in various designs (siding, clapboard, brick, shingles), but lately I've taken to making my own siding and clapboard, gluing strips of styrene board-by-board onto the base material. It takes a while, but is very therapeutic and looks great. Don't think I'm gonna do shingles, though.


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