# Weathering



## daveroesler (Jul 25, 2009)

I'm fairly new to GRR hobby. Got my track down last year and am starting to run trains. I have a question on weathering. 

I have already weathered some cars using the dry brush technique with acrylic paints and that worked ok for what I am tried to do. I just got some powders and plan to try some that way. I was also planning on trying some alcohol washes and I've seen opinions all over the map about alcohol washes. 

I have Aristo, USA Trains, and AML rolling stock. I'm pretty sure they are all basically plastic bodies of some kind. I was planning on using a wash on some of them with India Ink and 70% alcohol. Some have said that 90% works best and some have said 70% works OK. And they have said that either wash will melt the paint and plastic and others have said it has no effect at all. Most of these posts I found on the internet are 5 years or so old so don't know if opinions have changed. I watched a DVD on weathering "Easy Weathering Techniques" by Dave Frary and Bob Hayden the they talk about using alcohol washes and a mineral spirit based wash and I don't pick up on anything from them about melting plastic although they did say using paint thinner might be a problem.

So at the risk of soliciting more conflicting opinions, I turn to you, the experts about washes. What is the best one? Which one seems to be more prominent? Does a 70% alcohol wash really melt plastic cars?

I have learned a lot from this forum and thank you in advance for your input. You can email me if you choose at [email protected]


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I would love to give you definite answers , but.... The Chinese have lax quality control so their plastic may differ. The safest thing to do is test on a hidden surface. 
From my experience alcohol is safe on plastics 

Bear in mind those books are for indoor trains, you'll want to over coat with a uv stable clear coat. 

Happy Rails 

John


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

about washes. What is the best one 
Dave, 
In this scale, there are several choices. I use spray/rattle cans of flat black to add a patina of coal dust on my EBT hoippers. I also have a Testors spray can of 'weathering' but it is sandy colored and unsuitable for Pennsylvania! The trick is to stand back, fire from below, and be very sparing. 

When I am doing a loco or similar complex shape, I use acrylic paints from the local craft shop (e.g. Michaels.) They are water based and won't affect the plastic (or metal.) I start with diluted paint (30% water) and let it run down the sides. Then I add more water and change the color a little to make it look like the engine has been out in the rain. 

Kevin (East Broad Top or "K" around here) has a bunch of threads showing his work. Here's one or two. 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/87607/afv/topic/Default.aspx 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/117343/afv/topic/Default.aspx 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/128693/afv/topic/Default.aspx 

Alcohol and ink are great for wood but I find water-based 'washes' are easier. 

It helps to final coat with some flat transarent spray. Testors Dullcote is not UV protected and will yellow and peel off if exposed outdoors for a while. Krylon has a UV protected matt spray which I have used with some success.


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## DanteHicks79 (Jun 19, 2013)

I've been wondering which sealer to use when I finally do have a chance to getting around to weathering my rolling stock and engines. I've seen a number of people swear by Testors Dullcoat for stuff, but what is the best UV protectant that won't add any additional texture and would hold up good in a semi-moist climate like the San Francisco Bay Area?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Krylon has a suitable UV clear coat. 
I think I've heard bad things about Dull coat and outsides UV damage. 

John


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

I've used the Alcohol and Chalk method since I first saw it in the Model Railroad Hobbies magazine, February 2011 issue on page #64 & 65, "Weathering with Chalk and Alcohol". 

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2011-02-Feb

I've been able to get some deep weathering, which was hard to accomplish just using Chalk. I buy Pastel Chalk sticks and using fine grit sand paper, create my own powder by grinding the sticks back and forth on the paper. I've found that I can purchase a whole box of chalks in stick form for about $5 and $7 at most of the hobby or artist shops, including WallMart.


http://webzoom.freewebs.com/mmg-gar...0004-2.JPG

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/mmg-gar...%20003.JPG

Regards,
Mark
* http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/*


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I use acrylics a lot--as was said earlier, the cheap Michael's stuff diluted with water. Works very nicely, and the price is right. 

I just found some new weathering washes (acrylic/alcohol) at Caboose the other day that I figured I'd try. I forget the brand off the top of my head, and I'm at work right now so I can't check. I haven't done much with them, except what they call "grimy black" isn't black, but a medium grey that dries a shade or three lighter. I think it's going to be more suitable as a wash around ashpans of locomotives than to give something a nice coating of coal dust and soot. (Yeah, I'm bummed--$5 for a bottle, you'd expect when it says "black" that it'd be black--but at least I can use it for something else.) The brown/rust is good, though. I brushed it on some Accucraft trucks and it really does a good job of bringing out the details. 

The stuff is an alcohol base, but must have something else that inhibits drying, as it takes a long time (15 minutes or more) to actually dry. My water washes dry quicker than that, and alcohol by itself evaporates very quickly. Maybe the longer drying time will be advantageous, as I do find I have to work quickly to maintain a "wet" edge on my weathering. Caboose only had those two colors available, so if they get more colors in stock, I'll probably get them and do some more experimenting. 

In terms of clear coats, I don't use 'em. In this scale, nothing ruins a finsih like a monotonous sheen. In the small scales, indoors where there's no natural light to reflect, sure. But in this scale, outdoors where there's sun and sky, you can really tell when a loco's been bathed unnecessarily in Dull-Coat. It just doesn't look right. The weathering powders lose their dead-flat finish, and what should be somewhat glossy surfaces take on the same non-descript sheen. In this scale, the contrast between gloss and flat is easily seen, and really enhances the overall weathering effect. 

The acrylics are pretty permanent. I use them even on my live steamers, and they've held up remarkably well despite wipe-downs and continual spitting from the locomotive. The powders do--over time--wear off (especially if the piece gets caught in the rain), but they're powders. They're usuallly brushed on with a broad brush anyway, so it takes no time at all to re-apply when you bring the car or loco in for annual servicing. 

Later, 

K


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have been weathering for years. The Frary and Hayden video is very good, and a lot of their techniques also apply to large scale. I have used arylic washes, powders, and my airbrush to achieve the desired affect on may locomotives and pieces of rolling stock. Check out this link about fading with alcohol http://www.liveoakrr.com/tips/fadingpaint.htm 
I wrote the article several years ago for my Garden Railroad Club.


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## Gary Woolard (Jan 2, 2008)

So where can I get this Frary & Hayden video? (Never mind -- just googled & found it at Micro-Mark for $30!







)


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## bmwr71 (Jan 30, 2010)

I always coat my weathering jobs, and even cars I don't want to weather, with Krylon Matte Finish. If one uses several coats, may get more of a semi-gloss look but who wants to spend a bunch of time getting a weathering job right only to have it messed up later? So I give good coats. 

I have tried a variety of weathering techniques. I have tried the chalk powders and they have their value. Seems like you have to do several applications as it seems when you do the matte finish to protect and hold the chalk, it gets very dim and you have to repeat a few times. 

I do quit a bit with ink/alcohol washes. Seems to work pretty good. Have a variety of colors of ink to try and can mix colors to get the look you want. Can't say any exact ratio of ink to alcohol as seems ink vary and the affects you desire will vary too. Have to play around to see what fits your needs. And add a drop or so of dish washing liquid to help the wash flow. Also use this stuff to stain wood. 

I have done stuff with air brushes but I am lazy and hate to clean up the stuff and even set it up. Due to my laziness, I use spray can over-spray quite a bit. I either hold the cans a distance back from the pieces to get a fine mist or put the parts on some surface and spray onto the surface and let the paint mist bounce up and hit the pieces. It is nice to use Krylon Fusion paints as they are supposed to be formulated to stick to plastic, but can't get the colors you need most times so have to use other paints. I recently found some sprays at Home Depot meant for matching plastic flashings to roofs in some browns that look good and I assume are formulated for plastics. When doing this technique, need to figure the best spray angles to get the affect of the dirt, rust and such you desire. 

Another thing I do is use permanent markers. In some cases it is a matter of using the marker to make a spot and then smearing it down with a finger. But most times I use an ultra fine Sharpy to add dark lines in appropriate places. This can make a shadow affect of some groove or crack or an area just under some raised feature. Can really help bring out details that get somewhat lost in the unbroken color of a piece. 

Many times the best weather jobs use a combination of these different techniques. So when you are stuck at a RR crossing, don't miss the opportunity to study the dirt, oxidation, and rust on the cars as they pass by. 

Doug


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## DanteHicks79 (Jun 19, 2013)

I'll hafta check out the Krylon finish stuff, then! 

I'm also intrigued to try out the "salt trick" when I start weathering/painting my collection.


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