# B' K-27 Counterweight fix - can someone post pics?



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Can someone post pics of the Bachmann K-27 fix for the loose counterweights.  I'm not sure from the description what to do, but I think I have the same issue as I've had this same lockup.

Also, any advice how to remove the counter weights to add the shims?

Thanks!


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Pictures ain't gonna help much. 
The shims are .006" to .008" thick, .125" (1/8") wide, about .155" tall. 
They fit into the flat area of the "D" shape hole where the counterweight hits the axle. 
Remove the siderod bolt and siderod. Do NOT lose the oillite bearing! 
Remove counterweight with Phillips. 
Remove screw, washers and plastic retainer by pressing from backside with jeweler's screwdriver. 
File end of axle, 3 or 4 swipes with a file, making certain the axle is below the washer flat area of the couterweight. 
Assemble and move to next. 

Photos will show a hole and tools. 

And, don't run the loco until you fix it. 
You may damage the counterweight flats. 

Those that flip the counterweight around and lock up the drive probably did.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dave, I appreciate you sharing what you figured out! I'll give it a go, but still not sure where the shims go. Before the washer and retainer go back on or between the washer and retainer, or between retainer and counterweight?


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

The axle is shaped like a capital letter "D".
The hole in the counterweight is similarly shaped.
They factory seems to have milled the flat for the "D" on the axles too deeply......by about .008".
At least on the 1, 2 and 4 axles.
#3, the driving axle, seems to be about a .006", but a little work on the flat with a file and it will match the rest.
The shim goes into the gap between the flat of the axle and the flat of the counterweight.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah, got it! Thank you!


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## bobgrosh (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe these will help.


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Make dang sure you file the end of the axle to insure it is below the washer flat inside the counterweight.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Many thanks for pics and tip on filing!


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## railgeek (Jan 15, 2008)

This is really great, $700.00 for a supposed masterpiece and it is a piece of crap. 
I'm cancelling both of my orders. 
why should we fix them. send them all back to bachmann c.o.d.


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## Dan Moore (Jan 3, 2008)

Ill keep mine and do the repairs . Some of us enjoy working on the engines and building stuff. You have to pay to play. Go buy some quality LGB stuff..... oh there out of business.


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## railgeek (Jan 15, 2008)

Oh, I enjoy working on engines and buildkng things also, but not repairing something new out of the box.
By the way, the only reason that LGB is out of business is they were trying to protect themselves from a hostile takeover.  Marklin will have the same or even better quality tiems.

Why are we defending Bachmann's continuous defective products?  It's always something major.  Binding drivers, cheap regring used for the shay trucks, climax drive unit binds, etc.


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## jeepersinco (Jan 2, 2008)

From the post on Bachmann's forum not all K-27's have this problem? I just got mine a couple of days ago and it is still in the foam and want to know how I can tell if it requires this fix before pulling anything with it.

Thanks
Jim
[email protected]


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## Wayne Spence (Jan 15, 2008)

Thanks Dave for coming up with a solution to fix the loose counterweights, although I wasn't having any binding problems, I think it was only a matter of time before I did.
It took about one hour to "fix' the first K, which included shimming, cutting four washers from ABS rod and fitting to axle one & four to reduce axle side play
The second loco only took half an hour for the same process, 'caue I now what has to come apart.
Just a warning to anyone doing the same if removing the axles, keep an eye on the suppension springs under the axle bearrings, they are easily lost if not carefull.

Now to the installation of a Sierra sound reed switch.
Dave, I notice from your photo of the mounting of the glass reed switch, that it is way back from magnets, not the 3/8ths" or closer recommended by Sierra, will this work or should the reed be positioned closer to the axle center?

Thanks
Regards
Wayne


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, as far as I know they all have the counterwieght issue, just a matter of time.  The longer you run it the worse it will get.  If you haven't run it yet then the gap will probably be smaller.  I've only run mine for less than an hour.  I'll probably do the shimming this weekend.


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