# Norms track cleaner



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Has anyone got experience with this track cleaner?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221086542198?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_14478wt_888


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There was a thread about this before, maybe search for norm or norms. 

Personally, I think that it will only hit the very top of the rail unless the railhead is totally flat. 

Most rail heads are not flat, and do not wear flat... so I don't feel confident that it is actually cleaning the surface where the wheels are actually making contact, which is usually on the inside edge of the rail head. 

Greg


----------



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I had already tried the search using nms, norm, norms and Norm's with no luck. Anyone else with experience?


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

http://gscalenews.com/review/nms-track-cleaner

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u8Uxocclww


http://www.forum.gscalecentral.net/Track-cleaners-m228926.aspx

Sorry about the MLS search function, does not always work.

Greg


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

When I first got into the outdoors part of the hobby in the 1980s I tried several different attachments that could be added to a car and pulled around to clean track. They were all unsatisfactory. For one reason or another, one got hung up of switches and the other didn't really do the job. Long ago I started using a green Scotch Bright pad on a dry wall pole sander (found at most hardware stores). I can walk around my layout in less than a minute, about 100' of main line and polish the track. If I am away for a long time, I'll use the LGB track cleaning engine. I could use the pad then also, but it would take a few more passes.





































There are cars that take these pads, that I have heard work well, and docwatsonva has adapted a diesel to have a similar pad under its center. His works very well also. I am just a not convinced that a small wheel willdo much, based upon my past experience.

Chuck


----------



## K.A.Simpson (Mar 6, 2008)

I tried it, it worked for a while, one of the wheels was loose which came off. An easy fix though. 
I had enough of trying to keep track clean so I went to the battery remote for my locos using the hobbyking system, 
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/2point4GHz.htm 
I used the wheels to replace plastic wheels, these are small diameter. 

Would I by another one if I still had track power? No, I would use a drywall sander with a 3m pad. 

The track cleaner was a good product, but did not suit me. I also tried the Aristocraft track cleaning caboose, it also looked good but not really not a long term solution. I have removed the pad from the caboose and use it around the track for an inspection train. 

Andrew


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

This works well, but you can't push it, so is useless on blind sidings. Also, it's unsightly if you want to put it in a consist for "touch-up."

If I had a mill I would make my own set of trucks similar to Norm's, but using Dremel wheels, or such, for the cleaning wheels for relatively cheap, readily available replacements.


----------



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I have one. It's the least effective track cleaner I have. The best for me has been the bridge masters:

http://www.bridge-masters.com/products/cleaner.htm

Followed by the plain old aristo track cleaning caboose 

Followed by the norms track cleaner. I got one because it's practically invisible. It's moderately effective, and if you ran it in a freight train all the time, or for multiple passes, it'd work reasonably well. It gets better as the cleaning wheels wear a little, conforming to the railhead a little better.

I posted a review of it here not long ago, in product reviews:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/17/aft/124460/afv/topic/Default.aspx

As so often happens, it turned into a space for people who run on batteries to tout the advantages of running on batteries. Then the unpleasantness was edited out by the moderators


----------



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I would think the abrasive wheels would get full of gunk and not work very good?


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry:

That is one of the reasons that I abandoned that type of track cleaner many years ago.

Chuck


----------



## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used this track homemade track cleaner for over ten years with great success.......
*On the LP&GF RR we use a combination of track and battery power,* (still mostly track power). 
I have made my own track cleaning cleaning car, it only took a couple of hours to make and works great. I use 4' min radius curves, and this car will NOT work on 2' radius curves.
What I used was a LGB track cleaning block mounted under a Bachmann gondola that I reworked.
I removed the couplers (I use body mounted Kadee couplers) rotate the truck 180 degrees cut a small slot in the LGB block to receive the part on the truck where the coupler used to be mounted (this makes the cleaning block stay in the center of the track on curves). I removed the bottom black plastic of the car the part with the truss rods attached and cut out the center section enough to clear the length of the cleaning block. Screw and glue the two ends back on the car, glue 'stops' to keep the cleaning block in the center of the car. In order not to have to cut into the floor of the gondola I did have to sand a little off the top of the LGB cleaning pad.
*The "articulated" track cleaning car,* is made in such a way that the cleaning block moves side to side so as to always remains centered on the rails on straight as well as curve track. The two I made both started life as a standard "Bachmann" flat car and as a standard "Bachmann" gondola. Although I am slowly converting to battery power, I will alway maintain track power for friends and any new engines also the track cleaning cars do clean the grit off the rails so the battery powered engines don't bounce along..



























Here is the same track cleaning gondola with the scratch built "snap on snow plow" but because it doesn't snow here in Southern California it is really a leaf, twig, and debris remover....
How to page..... http://4largescale.com/trains/P7.htm


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

And of course there is always the method that I devised using "sock hangers."

These are the hangers that new socks come on. You may already have some. I've cut away a bit at the top that hooks over.



You know, just looking at these things it wouldn't suprise me if they were just the perfect size and shape to fit over the LGB truss bars and hold a green "scrubbie." As an option, a thin piece of veneer would hold it flat against the track..., or not.



Put them all together and what have you got?



Voila!


----------



## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

For a review of a plethora of cleaner cars: 

http://tjstrains.com/1399/best-track-cleaning-information/ 

Best, 
TJ


----------



## jaug (Oct 18, 2011)

I am an indoor modeler and I realize my track work is not subject to the environment as if it were out doors, and I know that you who have garden railroads have been fighting the copper oxidation war for some time, but I think the approach is causing more of a problem. When you use an abrasive material to clean copper you abrade the surface opening up more facets in the copper for moisture to attack and oxidize and unless you apply a sealer, oil or grease on the surface to keep the moisture out the surface will oxidize faster. I worked for Asea Brown Boveri Inc. for 30 years in the Manufacturing, Test and later the QC department, we built large AC and DC power supplies for the Foundry Industries and LRT use. Our procedure for making copper and aluminum buss connections was to clean the mating surfaces with and abrasive material and quickly cover the cleaned area with a grease, quickly to prevent oxidation, just as when you are preparing a copper pipe connection you clean the surface and apply a flux immediately for the same reason. My point is that a liquid type oxidation remover applied to a cotton pad would probably be a better approach and would result in your track staying cleaner longer. Just a thought to ponder.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The problem with anything coating the rail that blocks oxidation will also collect dirt, dust, grit... you quickly get gunk buildup. 

A while ago, I was getting tired of my wheels rusting overnight on an Aristo RS-3 (cheap plating, steel underneath)...so instead of wire brushing the wheels, tried the CRC 32 (I think that's the right number).... well the anticorrosion spray did indeed coat everything and stopped oxidation, but the stuff also made the rails so slippery that my GP7 would not go up the grade by itself, let alone pull a train. 

Then it took a LONG time to get the stuff off, as it attracted dirt, dust, dead ants, etc. 

No, while some people swear by applying stuff to the rails, most people experience more negatives in cleaning ,traction, etc. than positives... 

Greg


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I've tried chemicals especially formulated to clean brass track. There is a cleaner and a preventative and they come in applicator bottles like you would use to polish shoes.

Worked fine on the tops of the rails but turned my track green (from copper sulfate) on the webs and feet. Literally took years to go back to its normal darkened color. I still have several bottles. Maybe I need to try some on my "sock hanger" flat car just to get the very tops of the rails.


----------



## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

I've used barkeepers friend. It polishes and removes oxidation from copper. Works great on brass track. Make the powder into a paste with water and use a rag or paper towel to whipe the track. Afterwards just rinse to get the stuff off. It makes quick work of it and no sanding necessary. 

For the ends of the track I wanted to solder jumpers to, I used vinegar and salt in a small bucket and left the ends in it for a few hours and it got the oxidation off easily.


----------



## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

I think the purple or green Scotchbrite pad system is the real "KISS" method of track cleaning. It's inexpensive, can be homemade, no moving parts (except the car or pole it's attached to), and easy to replace. Unlike sandpaper the pads are not so abrasive that your track will be damaged by them. The photo shows my track cleaning car with a floating block with a replaceable pad.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan:

I tried the maroon (purple) pad on a brass door knob before I tried it on the track. I though that it left too many noticeable scratches. That is why I have always used the Scotch Bright Green. 

Chuck


----------



## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

I'll try'm Chuck, thanks


----------



## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Here's a chart that may help understanding the pads abrasive characteristics. 

Scotchbrite Grit Chart 
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit 
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit. 
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit 
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit 
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit 
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit 
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit. 
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from Scotchbrite)


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dan:

Thanks for the list!!!

My local stores only stock green and maroon.

Chuck


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So Dan, the numbers outside of the parentheses are your observations? 

Greg


----------



## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg

Evergreen State College, Washing State - 3M Scotch-BriteTM Hand Pads[/b]


3M Scotch Brite Literature Code - 61-5002-8008-8[/b] 

3M Woodworking Solutions Catalog - Abrasive Grade Reference Charts Page-7 Extract (PDF 120KB)[/b]


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

But why would anybody bother to clean track?


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 10 Aug 2012 09:53 AM 
But why would anybody bother to clean track?










Cheaper

Quicker than charging batteries

Easier

Better exercize

Less harmful to the environment

Can run more trains without time limitations

Can run multiple trains simultaneously unattended and let them avoid each other

Can do station stops and P-T-P easier

Etc.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Not to mention that when polishing the track you can get rid of sticks, leaves, rattle snakes and frogs (the hopping kind not those in switches) at the same time.

The green pads that I use don't appear in any of the tables. 

The product that I use is:

3M™ Hand Sanding Stripping Pad 7413NA, 4.375 in x 11 in, Green, Coarse 
I am surprised that it shows up on the 3m site as coarse. I can't find on the 3m site the abrasive that they are using on this pad. The other pads use aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. Both of which are very hard.

Chuck


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Steve, between those 3 documents you can get a real feel for the stuff.. have not seen the micro fine stuff yet, but great to see the "range".. green stuff does not seem to have any grit added to it like most of the others. 

Maybe that's why it's not in all tables, but it is in one of them. 

Greg


----------



## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09 Aug 2012 11:16 PM 
So Dan, the numbers outside of the parentheses are your observations? 

Greg No Greg, Some of my sources were the same as Steve C.'s links on page 1.


----------

