# A 'real' water tender?



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Having gone to all the work of building a working water tower, and a 4 truck shay tender-from 2 Bachmann coal tenders, I figure I need a working water tender to fill! Trying to think of ways to actuall put some kind of tank, container..or something to actuall fill from the tower. Thought that would look cool. The Bachmann 'hatch', in this case 2 hatches, one at each end,are where the 9v battery went. Any thoughts on how to make a tank?


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## cabforward (Feb 18, 2008)

Can you please post some more pictures of the four truck shay I am interested in doing one myself. 
Did you start with a two or three truck unit? 
thank 
matt


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Sure, give me a day or so. Started with a 2 truck. You can get another set of trucks-powered or dummy from someplace like Iron Creek Shops. I used 2 Bachmann coal tenders-modified one frame, cut the shells in two, made a draw bar and rear mount. The drive shaft(s) were the hardest part, but not that difficult. I'll get some pics. Bill


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

My first thought would be something like an R/C car or plane fuel tank. You'd have to find one with the opening in the right spot. Failing that, how about something like the Glad or whoever's reusable plastic containers? They come in a variety of shapes. I'd think the small round one would fit in the opening allowing you to fill it. The question then becomes, once it's filled, what do you do with it? 

Later, 

K


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## DougArcher (Jan 2, 2008)

why dont you just seal the inside of the shay tender you just built?


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Cap,

You sure think up some interesting projects. Can you do brass/copper and solder? Styrene--which I've never used, yet--might be easier. Easiest would be a custom built tank, maybe?

Les


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

You might put a drain between the rails and just let the water flow right through the tender. 
Or, switch to live steam and use it up. 

Harvey C.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Well, guys, I've thought about most of the ideas mentioned. Those Bachmann water lids are oval so I'll need an oval 'tube' from the filler to the 'tank'. The tank frame is the one with the speaker holes, so that and sealing the shell is a bit problematic. Indeed a drain valve and maybe some other 'plumbing would be neat to give some interest to the 'Dark Side' of the Shay. Making up a brass sheeting tank mybe the best......and hardest solution. I am, after all, essentially lazy! A live steam Shay, Man, I can only dream!


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## DarkTalon (Nov 8, 2008)

Real water fillers on steam locomotives rarely fit the locomotive perfectly...spillage was common, so you wouldn't have to worry about making it fit the lid exactly..maybe just a round filler just a lil smaller in diameter to the lids?


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Make a tank out of sheet foam pvc or styrene, caulk the seams, put in a fish tank valve for drainage.....or a 1/4 inch drip irrigation shut off valvle


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I think I have to be careful here since the trucks (under the tender)are powered. Not sure if water, even small amounts, would hurt the motors. I must say though that 4 powered trucks under this makes a powerful loco! The only one..in a pic....I've seen was one owned by 'The Red River Lumber Co.' Said they didn't keep it long because "on tight curves, it pulled everthing off the tracks."


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking at your work, you're obviously a talented and skilled kit-basher. The 9 volt battery is for the OEM sound board. I'm sure there are smaller sound boards out there that can be relocated to free up that area. Cut the existing battery case out of the way. Then build an inner tank under the nice oval fill hole. It should operate fairly prototypically. Then the little drain tube at the bottom can dribble it between the track. Sounds kind of cool.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

That's kind of the idea. I took the whole sound system out so it's essentially an empty tank area. I have two fillers one at each end since I used the 'back' ends of the two coal tenders. My idea was, or is, to use the rear' filler' for a battery and make a working rear light. Therefore, I have to isolate the tank. the idea of' dribbling' the water out is just one more way to add some realism! I have some copper elbows, and need a trip to the LHS to get some bigger brass tube with which to make one of the big sort of 'L' shaped fill tubes they apparently used to pump from the engine tender into the rear on the 3 truck Shays, as you see on the Bachmann 3 trk units. Actually never saw a pic of a an original. Guess that was strictly for filling the engine from a stream, using the hose. Now for the ultimate realism, to be able to fill the rear from the front, Hhmmm! My camera batteries died today so I'll try and get a few more pics up.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Let me try to expkain how I did the drive shaft coupler(this assumes you have a complete set). I used 2 slip joint sections of square brass stock. The smaller piece about 1" longer just slips over the cut square section of shaft. I drilled a wee, tiny, hole through the round portion ( about 1 1/2mm) and thru the smaller brass piece and stick a brad through it. Grinding it (the brad) flush, I then force the larger square piece over that. It would be helpful to determine your minimum radius turns and mark the square portion of the shaft(s) before final cutting. The entire drive shaft ONLY turns off the front engine truck! Therefore, you need to remove the pin from the rear set of shafts. From the engine's rear shaft, I used a piece of brass tube over the plastic end piece and a slip join smaller tube onto the shaft-held together with ONE tiny drop of thin CA. You will be left with one extra round plastic end piece to replace if you want to restore the engine to original condition. You need to have your draw bar arrangement fixed first so you can cut he engine to tender shaft the correct length! Hope this is clear!


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

BTW, here's a pic of the 'overflow valve', or whatever! I can fill the little tank and it will dribble out in about 4-5 minutes. Enough to give the illusion...thanks for the idea! Still have a lot of detailing to do. Figure I will clutter up the top with a lot of logging equipment: ropes, blocks chain. My plan is to push log disconnects and pull 'work' cars..bobber etc.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Cap, 

I hate to rain on your parade, but I don't think it will 'look' right. Water doesn't shrink to scale - it will not look like real water IMHO. It won't have the mass/inertia of a lot of real water, nor will it flow like full size water. I'd make a mock-up and try it to see if it looks right first.


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