# Link and Pin



## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Howdy all.
I'm looking for a source of link and pin couplers. I see that Trackside has coupler pockets, but not the actual pins or links. I've got a loco that has no couplers, so I need to get some so I can hook up a consist.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Most of us 7/8's scale folks use link and pins. 
Ozark Miniatures has a good selection of both 7/8's scale and 1/20-24 scale, link and pin pockets, links and pins - http://www.ozarkminiatures.com and do a product search in the upper left for 'link' 

Links can also be made from paper clips or brass bar stock. Pop rivets are often used for pins (easier to get your fingers on!) 

-Brian


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Pop rivets! Didn't even think of that. I was going to put an order in with Ozark here the week anyway, so I'll have to take another look at their listings for link and pin stuff. Thanks.


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## VTRRLoco18 (Jan 6, 2008)

Accucraft has some links & pins (metal). Also, LGB had some, part # 64777(plastic) if you can still find them. There's also someone selling them on e bay: http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_n...t=Model_RR_Trains&_odkw=&_osacat=19151&_rdc=1 
I am not representing any of these, just giving you info.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Someone also had a "cheapie" way of making the pockets out of cast heat sink material and a drill press......this type of stuff: 

http://www.v2conference.com/shower-...ofiles.jpg 

Cut to size, file the sides round, drill down the center, and volia.....


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Make'yer own!!! 

http://gold.mylargescale.com/vsmith/DIY_LinkandPin.pdf


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Might do that for cars that need it, but I don't want to mount styrene to my loco - forgot to mention I only run live steam, so styrene might get a trifle distorted. I'll bookmark that info for some rolling stock later in my railroad's evolution though...


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The LGB set is available at Train-Li. I believe 1 package is 3 sets, call and ask!!! 

Enter this in your browser 

http://www.train-li-usa.com/store/link-coupler-p-572.html


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## Fritz (Jan 11, 2008)

Many locos had more than one single pocket for the coupler links. They had a few pockets piled on top of each other. 











Firms like Ozark, IP Engineering, Brandbright, GRS offer these parts in whitemetall. Regner from Germany offers them in brass. 

Some of the toy makers mount their couplings to the trucks / bogies, some to the bufferbeams 8bodymounted) So it makes sense, to have 
different heights of coupe pockets. Pins or loops from whitemetall don´t last too long. They are too soft. Steel nails and chin links are the better choice. It helbs to have a box a spares, since these parts tend to get lost very often. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Fritz, that's terrific!! 

Here's my L&P; using a Rivet from home depot or lowe's for the pin 




























In the real world there are dozens of L&P arrangements. I'm only using about 10 types; all are compatible with each other.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Multiple pockets are prototypical on short and industrial RR's. Cars came in all sizes and on a variety of wheel diameters... Pretty much pre-standards days. 

Links are easy to make, solder two (or more depending on length of link desired) rods together, wrap with several coils of wire (side by side). Slice up one side with a thin seperating disc. Use 2 pair of pliers (preferably smooth jaw) to push the ends together, trick; over lap ends and then open enough to slide against each other. A tinned slodering iron usually will carry enough solder to close the joint. I pick up with tweezers, dip the link in paste and apply the iron. Drop in a tin of cleaner and repeat. Occassionallly I recharge the tip. 

John


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Oh, forgot to mention. You need good buffers and the right L&P (such as ones that retract when backing up). I found out the hard way that when making your own, you need to test them by backing up a train around a curve and thru a switch. Otherwise, they might derail! That is, unless you just plan on going forward. 

Some types use chains or drawbars and others use hooks and horns. Studying L&P types can be its own hobby.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

By 'buffers' I assume you mean the coupler face... our friends over the pond will think differently.... 

Yes the links should be nearly half way insde the recess of the coupler on each side with a close fit pin in the 'pull' posisition. Excessive slack action will find the weakest link....lol 

Finger operated slide lock tweezers are a help setting the pins, one for the link and one for the pin. 

Many brakemen had missing fingers from placing the link as the cars came together.... 

Early Janey (I think) couplers had a link slot so they could be used with L 'n P's.... 

John


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Yep, like bumper on a car. There are nearly as many buffer styles as L&P types. Some are merely timbers with some sort of metal band, as in mining cars 

Here's one I designed, prior to weathering on a test track (ties are too small for 7/8 scale), made from a photo. The steel is from strap iron. Notice the hook is recessed so buffer hits buffer.

It's a Canadian mining car that was used to haul timber frames to the mines


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## Fritz (Jan 11, 2008)

Hi, 

That´s not really link & pin, hook and chain maybe. But here is a picture, how to couple those to a buffer 










Took that picture at Feldbahn Museum Oekoven / GER recently. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Lots of great info here! More than I even expected! I'll definitely be using this for future loco/rolling stock stuff as well as my current equipment!


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## Fritz (Jan 11, 2008)

It helps, if the coupler pockets have a bit of sideplay on the models. Mainly if you are using tighter radi on your layout. 











In the above example there is a Ozark sprung coupler pocket on a Carter Bros. coach on the left(MLS Masterclass) and an Accucraft L & P buffer on a Saxon 1 K (Livesteam) on the right. 
Since Mr. Reppingen, where I took the picture a few years ago, has only 8 ft diameter curves in his workshop, we had to install a short drawbar (30mm) to be on the safe side. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Posted By Fritz on 08 Oct 2009 01:45 PM 
Hi, 

That´s not really link & pin, hook and chain maybe. But here is a picture, how to couple those to a buffer 










Took that picture at Feldbahn Museum Oekoven / GER recently. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen Fritz, very instructive photo. The chain doesn't appear to be anchored to anything permanently and appears to be a specially made chain to hook over the locomotive's tow-ball. I'm thinking they used a chain with the smaller links to connect rolling stock to rolling stock of that design (hook and chain).


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## Fritz (Jan 11, 2008)

Hi, 

Yes, they use smaller chains, mostly with 3 links, to couple their wagons. 










After all, the museum gets their material from different sources, so they sometimes have to improvise. 

A very strange coupler combination I saw on a metre gauge museums line. Forgot the name of it. 










A Scharffenberg coupling at the bottom. Still used today on some streetcar lines or on some Saxon 750mm locos in Germany. Above it a L & P. 
For safety reasons, they use a drawbar with a handle. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen


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## Fritz (Jan 11, 2008)

Just found a picture from another museum (Muttenthal, Ruhrgebiet, 600mm track) 










They keep a collection of chains, liinks and pins at a central place of the shunting area. 
A nice little detail worth modelling. 

Have Fun 

Fritz / Juergen 
Fritz / Juergen


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob Harford has some listed in his online catolog. 
http://shop.hartfordproducts.com/ca...6584B6C7F13F49B214.qscstrfrnt04?categoryId=63


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