# Out door protection for buildings ?



## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

I have several scratch built & kit buildings of ceder and would like to seal then from the weather.
What kind of UV sealer do some of you use?
I remember reading some place that Rust Oleum makes a UV sealer but cant seem to get it to come up when searching. 
Thank You in advance.


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## cephius (Jan 10, 2008)

The Rustoleum spray I have that actually lists "UV Resistant" is labeled American Accents Clear Top Coat. This was purchased many years ago.

I was in the store the other day picking up a Matt clear top coat and I couldn't find any Rustoleum cans that still list UV resistant or UV protection on their labels.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

I've never used it on wood, but Krylon makes a "UV resistant" clear that I've used on paper (for signs) and plastic cars--it holds up pretty well. It comes in matte, which is handy for those things you don't want to have a sheen.


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used Krylon, Tremclad, Rustoleum, and even exterior house paint. All work well depending on weather conditions. The biggest thing is to place them on a base to keep them off damp ground. Your weather conditions and how much shade the buildings receive has a great deal to do with how the buildings will fair. 
I am located in south western Ontario.We get rain and high humidity. The color red fades to pink in almost two seasons. No UV protection will protect the color red. Darker colors stand up better with protection.
Hope this helps, Dennis.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Thanks for the info, Dennis. It never really occurred to me, in spite of having owned a red CAR. Nothing like that dull red on the roof, hood and trunk lid. I didn't quite associate it with the roofs on my "boxcar red" boxcars. Not sure it'd be worth air brushing the roofs.

Yellow seems to fade quickly, too. I have a yellow Kodak tank car and, after only one year outside, you can practically see a line between top and bottom, halfway down each side. Since I noticed that, it's spent all its time on a basement shelf. Probably foolish to do that. I really should leave it out and enjoy it and if it fades, it fades.

JackM

I've given the tank car a few oversprays of (I forget what brand) matte clear "UV protection". Can't say I really _trust_ it.


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

Boxcars have the color right thru the plastic and fade slowly. I am not a big fan of leaving cars out in the sun. We have another enemy when we leave plastic or metal items outside.
When it rains, the drops causes dirt to splash on everything, You know this, what is not known is that dirt contains corrosive elements. I did a piece for the club newsletter where I sacrificed a car and left it outside for two years, only the summer. 
By the end of this period, the body of the car stood up well but the steel wheels were badly corroded. I used no UV protection either.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Funny you should say that. I added a few new buildings to my otherwise barren landscape and what little rain we've had so far this summer has splashed a lot of 1:29 mud onto them. Leftovers from all the ballasting that's gone on this year, I guess. I'll need some larger stones than...well, they call them "fines" don't they?

re: boxcar red
I might have to disagree with you. I grabbed this shot this afternoon; not the best lighting, but it might make my point.










I have three A/C BCK boxcars, all of them seriously faded on the top, but sides are normal boxcar red. They've spent the past five summers inside the "Crystal Train Shed" when not being yanked around the track. The USAT SW4 is 6 or 7 years old, again every summer under the Lexan shield or sitting on the engine track in the midday sun. Likewise, all the other motive power spends all summer in the shed or out on the road. No fading at all. And that's just a thin coat of PollyO paints airbrushed over either A/C "paint" or an undec body. I'd be tempted to sand a bit of the BCK roof to see if it would bring back the more original red. On the other hand, it's not like no one's ever seen a badly-faded boxcar.










FYI - The Lexan is their 1/8 inch outdoor sign material, UV coated on both sides. Nothing fades except boxcar red roofs. Strange.

JackM


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I cannot suggest what to use or even what not to use but I once bought a nice Lionel wood building that had a LOT of wood shingles. I think it was Thompson's Water Seal that I used and within a short time all the shingles had come off. I ended up throwing the building away.

Jerry


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

Thank You all for the info.
I will be in the blue store tonight and will look to see what they have.

Jerry, which Austin do you live in 124 or 167?


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

JIm:

I have acquired some cedar buildings, and had a thread on my iron foundry detailing what I did to protect the building and paint it: (not keep it bare aged wood)...

http://forums.mylargescale.com/14-buildings/59338-iron-foundry-building-build-log.html

In addition, i have started using a 2 part boat building epoxy designed to saturate wood and applying this product on the bare wood prior to painting, on the bottom inch of the building, despite having it on a concrete base board, to keep moisture from wicking up into the wood. 

There are several products, such as MAS , System 3, and West System all similar and designed to soak into wood when building kayaks, etc. Pricey, but goes a long way and considering how much time it takes me to make a building, totally worth it.

Let us know how you make out

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

jimhoot said:


> Thank You all for the info.
> I will be in the blue store tonight and will look to see what they have.
> 
> Jerry, which Austin do you live in 124 or 167?


You are the first person to have ever asked.  Most Arkansans have no idea where Austin is. It had a population of 326 when we moved here 40 years ago. We actually live in the country and try to avoid being annexed by any town/city. 

North of Cabot, AR - off of Hwy 67/167.


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

It figures.
I was hoping for 124 as it would be with in close driving to visit.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

jimhoot said:


> It figures.
> I was hoping for 124 as it would be with in close driving to visit.


I cannot find an Austin, Arlansas on Hwy 124. A Maps search only finds the Austin near us on Hwy 67/167 in Central Arkansas northeast of Little Rock.

There is an Old Austin, Arkansas community just east of the town of Austin. It is actually inside Ward city limits now.

Our Zip Code is 72007 if that helps.


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

I don't know if this helps or not, but if you are going to paint your wood buildings you can use a water proof glue like Titebond 3 as an exterior coating _before _you paint them. Just brush a coating of glue on the bare wood, wait for it to dry, prime, and paint. Also, exterior house paints are generally UV resistant. You can buy small sample containers in any color at the big box stores. 


-Kevin.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Not exactly on the initial topic, but the issue of dirt splashing from rain was mentioned.

I use inverted storage bins to protect my buildings from rain dirt splashing. Works surprisingly well. The bins also protect from falling branches and pine cones when it gets windy.

Here's a pic of my covered town:


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

JackM said:


> FYI - The Lexan is their 1/8 inch outdoor sign material, UV coated on both sides. Nothing fades except boxcar red roofs. Strange.
> JackM


Polycarbonate Sheet absorbs UV light and that is why the color on your equipment has not faded. Since the "LEXAN" blocks the UV it is letting more of the red spectrum through and red wavelengths fade red surfaces...I am amazed that your plastic train cars have not melted though... I've seen many throughly melted boxcars, tankers, etc. that were stored outside under clear acrylic covers. 

Russ Miller
TAP Plastics, Manager (36 years!)
NGRC 2016 Chairman


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

*303 Aerospace Protectant*

A wonderful spray on product for painted buildings and exposed plastic is *303 Aerospace Protectant.* I first read about the great results of this product on Mylargescale.com. We tested it and have been carrying it at *TAP Plastics* ever since.

Russ Miller


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

On 90+ days I try to remember to pull the front side off even if I won't be running anything. I figure it can't hurt.

Since day One the only melting problem I've had is with a pair of Thomas the Tank Engine cars whose roofs did warp. Bachman was kind enough to replace them at no charge, but with a subtle reminder not to do it again. I can understand that those cars aren't as robustly designed as what we expect of USAT, A/C, etc. I've tried to get an accurate read on the temperatures of the cars when sitting inside the shed on blistering hot days. I have one of those laser temperature gauges from good ol' Harbor Freight. I'm not totally sure of the unit's accuracy, but I've seen readings of about 150 degrees on the cars on very hot days. But, except for those two Thomas cars, I have found absolutely no harm to any other cars.

However, figuring that it can't hurt, I've since installed a pair of solar powered exhaust fans that I purchased at an RV store. They don't seem powerful enough to make a huge difference, but, again, it can't hurt.

JackM


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