# New to Accucraft, what are the must-have upgrades?



## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Just acquired an AML 0-6-0, http://www.americanmainline.com/modelc/G731-01-060.htm#page=page-1 It appears to be a first-run wartime paint job. Apparently it was only driven on Sundays by a little old lady who changed the oil once a month. - OK, so actually it sat in a cabinet at Roll-EZ for 6 years, never been run. It was a good day to check EBay.

I'm wondering what kinds of add-ons and modifications I should be planning on grabbing right off the bat.

My steam experience:
Currently I have a Roundhouse Sammie that I've upgraded with a sight glass. pressure gauge and Goodall valve. (and of course, a chuffer.) Runs great for 30min at a time in all kinds of weather. At 5lbs, he's a little light, but still pulls 6-8 40' boxcars no problem.

My future with the AML/Accucraft:
Since having an integrated tender is kind of a new idea for me, I'm wondering what new opportunity I have for quality of life mods, such as a tender heater, goodall valve, or axle pump. Keep in mind I haven't seen the goods yet, they're in transit. 

I'm pretty handy with tubes, pipe nipples & valves, so anything short of making a new hole in the boiler is probably a cool idea to me. Anything I should replace right away? Do I have space for an axle pump? If not, what about servo-driven?


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

It's a great running locomotive!
I'm a believer in simple. Most of my locos are operated manually so I favor a goodall valve vs an axle pump or tender hand pump. You stop the loco and squirt some water directly into the boiler instead of through a clack valve, tender connection etc. With an axle pump you'd need to be adjusting the bypass valve. the loco comes with a sight glass so you can accurately (as much as those little glasses are) how much water you have.
I'd advise getting it, running it in stock form and deciding where to go from there. 
Good purchase,
Tom


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Tom Bowdler said:


> It's a great running locomotive!
> I'm a believer in simple. Most of my locos are operated manually so I favor a goodall valve vs an axle pump or tender hand pump. You stop the loco and squirt some water directly into the boiler instead of through a clack valve, tender connection etc. With an axle pump you'd need to be adjusting the bypass valve. the loco comes with a sight glass so you can accurately (as much as those little glasses are) how much water you have.
> I'd advise getting it, running it in stock form and deciding where to go from there.
> Good purchase,
> Tom


Yeah, but one of the things I love about live steam is the troubleshooting, care & feeding.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

rexcadral, good purchase, I really like mine, and they are GREAT pullers. Not MUST, but I wrapped my burner in NiCr mesh and added a tender heater. I am now in the process of giving it the option to run on Propane also. I too like tinkering as much as running, keep us posted.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> rexcadral, good purchase, I really like mine, and they are GREAT pullers. Not MUST, but I wrapped my burner in NiCr mesh and added a tender heater. I am now in the process of giving it the option to run on Propane also. I too like tinkering as much as running, keep us posted.


Yeah, I read an article on radiant poker burners (probably *the* article) it's intriguing, and on my list. I also found this bad boy: https://www.ministeam.com/acatalog/Automatic-Boiler-Pressure-Regulator-FTBIX029.html#SID=222 (gas attenuator) which really interests me, but only if I can get some sort of automatic pump working. I suspect in both cases they improve gas efficiency enough to overcome the gas/water safety ratio in the stock product.

I noticed on thetraindepartment.com that he offers replacement needle valves, is this something I need to consider?

Tender heater is definitely on my short list, as I will run all year long. I also have a pmmodelengines.com whistle which will get ported from my Sammie to the new guy (as yet unnamed) Unfortunately, like most railroads, purchasing new equipment means selling the old stuff off.

Finally, I have an RC kit waiting for this engine. I've seen a few on youtube.com, so I know it's possible. Any experience on this forum?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

rexcadral. I personally don't see a need for the replacement valves, (I'm sure others have differing opinions,) especially if you are going to RC the unit, I have found the servo's are easily adjustable for large or small movements depending on the linkage distances from the center of revolution. There are plenty of RC articles on this forum, and I remember one designed just for this locomotive, it was a while ago and I don't remember the author, but I'm sure someone will post a direct link to it.


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd agree with Tom and opt for a Goodall valve over an axle pump. There's not going to be tons of space below decks for the pump, bypass piping, check valve and so forth, and small-scale pumps can sometimes be frustrating to get and keep working.

One of my favorite add-ons with Accucraft locos is the replacement blow-down valve (originally developed by Herr Schug in Germany), their part number AP-21613. Accucraft stock those on their e-store (although I've got a couple of unused spares I can sell you, if they're out of stock).

I've seen some folks add lights to their engines, doesn't look too difficult...


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

A steam heating line for the tender water bath is a must IMHO. I have RC'd the 0-6-0 but keep in mind that the tender tank is soldered shut at the factory. Lots of issues trying to access that space but could be done. I used a plastic model airplane fuel tank with the top cut off to hold the receiver and battery pack. Mini servo between the frame will work for reverser. Cab could hold a throttle servo(a very small one). Just not a lot of spare space but doable.
Mike McCormack
mocrownsteam
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Hopefully there's the standard 'blank' plug on the backhead. That lets you install the blowdown (see Joel's post) - or a check valve for the hand pump in the tender. The Accucraft eStore lists a tender water pump and check valve - though they are often sold out, and aren't exactly sized for this engine. My EBT #12 has one and it is quite useful.

Not sure about the water heater unless you are running in the cold. I used to add warmer water to the tender as it got depleted.

The Train Dept valves are nice if you run into problems, but none of my engines show signs of needing them. Most Accucraft engines operate flat out on only 90 degrees of throttle, so TTD's valve gives you a bit more measured control, I'm told.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Its tight I'll say

Here is a 0-4-0 I did. It is one of the toughest Ive done. FYI the battery and the switch are all contained in the cab too.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

@Kovacjr - Nice work. I have a bunch of HiTech 65MGs and 85MGs, which look like they _might _ be a little smaller than what you've got jammed in there. (zooming in, I couldn't quite make out the labels on your servos.)

Having these photos on this thread is really handy, thank you!


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

While I'm at it, what's it going to be like installing Kadee couplers on this bad boy? I have a selection of draft boxes in the workshop, no chance the locomotive is already configured to accept them, is there? (body-mount)


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## gearedsoft (Jun 20, 2009)

At kadee.com there is a conversion table:
http://kadee.com/conv/lscc_accucraft_ams.htm


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Yeah, but they don't have the AML stuff in the list. Guess I'll figure it out when it gets here.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

rexcadral said:


> While I'm at it, what's it going to be like installing Kadee couplers on this bad boy? I have a selection of draft boxes in the workshop, no chance the locomotive is already configured to accept them, is there? (body-mount)


The Accucraft couplers are generally quite acceptable, and look more prototypical than Kadees.


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

rexcadral said:


> Yeah, but one of the things I love about live steam is the troubleshooting, care & feeding.


Great observation. I was running my Berkshire recently and it was so trouble free that someone commented that it might as well have been electric. I was crushed.

Live steam is about drama - if they just worked every time we took to the track, it would be boring


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

I have just acquired the same locomotive. Runs great. The accucraft coupler mates up fine with my Kadees.

For tiny servos, check out hobby king. They have quite a selection of sub micro and nano servos:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/servos/sub-micro-servo-0-5g.html


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

zephyra said:


> Great observation. I was running my Berkshire recently and it was so trouble free that someone commented that it might as well have been electric. I was crushed.
> 
> Live steam is about drama - if they just worked every time we took to the track, it would be boring


the fun part is running after them and trying to catch the before the fly off the rails


.....and that is why i never liked sparkies.......


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

zephyra said:


> Great observation. I was running my Berkshire recently and it was so trouble free that someone commented that it might as well have been electric. I was crushed.
> 
> Live steam is about drama - if they just worked every time we took to the track, it would be boring


Oh, but there's the oiling rituals, the true mechanical sounds, the smells, the plumes of real vapor no smoke generator can match... It may be well mannered, but it's still a steamer.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Pete Thornton said:


> The Accucraft couplers are generally quite acceptable, and look more prototypical than Kadees.


If you like _yuge!!!_ couplers. I've already made significant investments in Kadee on my fleet. I use the 1/32 size, which a lot of garden railroaders don't seem to like. The only spontaneous uncoupling problems I've had relate to the "brake hose" being a little low & clipping turnout rails.

Replacing the Accucraft couplers with Kadee turned out to be a cross between luck and very light customization.

Amazingly the tender draft box was an acceptable size for Kadees that swivel, but don't have the "stretch" in them. I had to ream the pin hole in the Kadee coupler up a few wire sizes before it would swivel freely in the Accucraft box, but I'd call it a win, because it mated with my Kadee gauge without any fuss whatsoever.

The locomotive's sill-mounted draft box was another story. Same type of Accucraft coupler, but the front draft box doesn't have any swing in the slot, and the appropriate Kadee was too short to engage the pin. - I also felt that a little swing was desirable. I do have some R3 turnouts. I ended up removing the stock sill mounted box and replacing it with the Kadee sill-style box. I had to drill new holes in the Kadee box to line up with the threaded holes on the loco. I also had to switch from those lovely little bolts to screws, as the new holes were just too close to the box details to get a wrench around the bolt head. A little trimming of the outside edges of the Kadee box and she fit snugly on the pilot beam. No height adjustment was required after mounting.

Yes, I had to give up the fancy chain, and yes, I leave the "air hose" on my Kadees, but I find them quite reliable, and the AAR Type-E style looks pretty prototypical to my eyes.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pete Thornton*
> _The Accucraft couplers are generally quite acceptable, and look more prototypical than Kadees._
> 
> If you like _yuge!!!_ couplers.


Well, yes, their 1/29th couplers are more like 1/20.3 scale!


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> rexcadral, good purchase, I really like mine, and they are GREAT pullers. Not MUST, but I wrapped my burner in NiCr mesh and added a tender heater. I am now in the process of giving it the option to run on Propane also. I too like tinkering as much as running, keep us posted.


Nick Jr, where did you get the mesh? I'm guessing it's an online thing, a quick search provided lots of industrial sources, but I imagine you need very little (well under 1' square). Who's your source?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I get my mesh from McMaster Carr, last piece of NiCr I got was 6"X 6", prices are IMHO very reasonable. They also carry other items that we can use in our modifications. I usually check there first if I am looking for something specific like insulation etc. Also if you call their people are very helpful. Their web site is very extensive.
If you need more specifics about the mesh, don't hesitate to PM me, be glad to help. LG


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

I am learning toward the more extreme side of upgrades, coal fired!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l9vunmajjg7exjc/AABZ47FM8b2OAXiVZEXToFb6a?dl=0


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

afinegan said:


> I am learning toward the more extreme side of upgrades, coal fired!
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l9vunmajjg7exjc/AABZ47FM8b2OAXiVZEXToFb6a?dl=0


Oh, you definitely win the complexity & effort award! Not being a boilermaker or a machinist, that kind of upgrade is beyond me.

I had noticed on my butane-fired model that there's a lot of wasted internal space in the dummy firebox, but I don't think I have the um... chutzpah to take the whole thing apart without a manual for putting it back together.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Its actually justin koch that is doing the conversion (I don't have any time either lol, I planned on doing the conversion myself but my shop is 1/2 built, and I just don't have the time.), he had it a while though - just got busy and hadn't had time to complete it until this year. Still worth it! I don't mind waiting for a great conversion.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Rex, you have a PM, but not sure it took.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Rex, you have a PM, but not sure it took.


Yup. Got it. Responded.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

*Burner improvment runs into trouble.*

Things are a little tight. I appeal to the Accucraft experts.

On the AML 0-6-0, it's a single-burner flue. The brass burner has a mounting flange with a key in the bottom to let the superheater pipe sit along the bottom of the flue and into the reversing valve at the bottom of the smokebox.

The cab-end of the superheater has a machined 90degree bend, and a tube union that connects to the oiler output pipe. I was able to clear this mess by temporarily warping the superheater, manhandling the burner's significant flange over the machined fitting at the end, it wasn't pretty, but it seems to have come out OK.

Once I've got the radiant mesh installed on the burner, the burner will be thicker in a few key areas. I am not sure I'll have clearance to reverse my actions, angling the burner in the flue to clear the flange over the fittings at the end of the superheater. I'm thinking the superheater has to come out.

Looking into the smokebox end, the superheater has what appears to be another tube union that joins a 90degree pipe that goes down into the reversing valve. One could imagine unscrewing the union nut, pulling the superheater out through the cab-end, and inserting it and the burner together. At least, that's what I figured they did at the factory, but I think I'm wrong.

There's no way you could get a wrench (or even foreceps!) into the smokebox to either hold or turn the union nut. It's 90degrees to the smokebox door access, and it's not lined up with the chimney.

How the **** do you take the superheater out, and of course, how do you put it back together?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Rex, on a lot of Accucraft locos the smokebox front pops out along with the door, giving you better access. I had no trouble unbolting my 'superheater' pipe when I took the boiler out of my C-19. Check for some small bolts at the side or top - often under the lamp bracket.


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