# Aristocraft E8 with Zimo MX697S



## scottieb (Aug 13, 2018)

Still getting my feet wet with DCC decoders—Would a ZIMO MX697S (4amp, 10 peak) be powerful enough? I’ve read to estimate 1 amp per motor. Any input appreciated- thanks!

Scott


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

That may be pushing it.

See what Dan has to say.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Run the loco on analog DC and measure the current it draws. It's not going to be any different on DCC. Just because the loco has 4 motors doesn't mean each one is going to draw 1 amp each in operation. I did an E8 for a friend with battery power. It will run for 2 hours on a 2600mAh battery. That's just over 1 amp total draw for the loco. 

Later,

K


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

East Broad Top said:


> Run the loco on analog DC and measure the current it draws. It's not going to be any different on DCC. Just because the loco has 4 motors doesn't mean each one is going to draw 1 amp each in operation. I did an E8 for a friend with battery power. It will run for 2 hours on a 2600mAh battery. That's just over 1 amp total draw for the loco.


Something is amiss herein Kevin. A pair of Aristocrat’s 3-axle trucks *NO* load current draw is 1.4-2.0 Amps in my tests. Average current *UNDER *load with 18V battery averages 3.5-4.1 Amps. A 14.4V battery will garner higher numbers.

Under load, voltage degradation is a significant factor witha single 2600mAh battery, said battery will provide about 16V underload @ 2C. Some consideration should be allowed for variances in throttle position(s) and downgrades, yet it’s not plausible IMO for an E8 to consume 1 Amp or thereabouts as you assert.

Stall current runs about 9.0 Amps on average. 

All of the info above was garnered from *stock *3-axle drives with all of the electrical losses associated with same. I have recently stripped several drives for battery operation, removing all of the power routing from the pcb to the motors and soldered wires directly to the motors and decoder. I haven’t completed the conversion just yet and will test ASAP. I expect to realize a robust, low resistance, no maintenance power supply to the trucks.

I concur; actual current tests under load will answer all.

The Zimo MX697S decoder is solid, I wouldn't hesitate to go there with proper sized current protection, i.e., fuse/PTC or similar ilk.

Michael


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

One must remember that the Zimo decoders have a rating that is the complete load....motor, lights, smoke, etc. However they do have a surge current rating of 10 amp. The use of LEDS will keep current for lights very low and I suspect the motors will draw lots of current only with a large load and on a large grade.


I run 2 SD45's with smoke on , lights on, sound on and pushing a snow plow in 5 inches of snow with a DC 8 amp 24 volt power pack with no power issues. Snow was a little packed and did test the limits of the 2 SD-45's as I had to back up and 'ram' the plow into the snow. The engines did have wheels spinning and not moving the engine at times due to the heavy snow crust.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

With the information provided I would say give it a try. Use LED's and no smoke.


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## scottieb (Aug 13, 2018)

I was hoping for the path of least resistance as my DCC wiring knowledge is still moderately primitive. I’m not aware of any other dcc/sound combo PNP for Aristo. Am I better off getting an MX699KV which I put in a USA GP38 and am mildly more familiar with? Is there a better option for Aristo? Sorry for all the questions- just want to install the best option within my skill set. Thanks!


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

To make any install simple use the down and dirty method. Just 2 wires to replace the DC from track.


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## scottieb (Aug 13, 2018)

Thanks, all— I was really hoping to go the PNP route, but I don’t think it’s worth risking an inadequate decoder. Again— really do appreciate the feedback.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

What would be PNP in that loco?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I like to remove all electronics from an engine and have the decoder control everything separately as I do have a DCC system.
I control head lights, ditch lights, cabin light, sound, smoke heater, smoke motor, and even servos for uncouplers. Of course this takes a lot of time to do it.


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## scottieb (Aug 13, 2018)

Dan Pierce said:


> I like to remove all electronics from an engine and have the decoder control everything separately as I do have a DCC system.
> I control head lights, ditch lights, cabin light, sound, smoke heater, smoke motor, and even servos for uncouplers. Of course this takes a lot of time to do it.


Dan- on the E8, there is a simulated Mars light that alternates two bulbs- is there a way to preserve this with a rewire? I’m less concerned about time to do it than my ability to correctly complete it. It’s not make or break for me, but curious if possible-Thanks!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I do this all the time. My Zimo decoder can program lights for flashing ditch (2 lights alternate), or program one for ditch and the other for gyro. Other decoders should be able to do this also.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Michael Glavin said:


> Something is amiss herein Kevin.




Dangit, my bad. I got the Aristo E8 and the USA Trains PA-1 confused. (Hey, I'm a steam guy! They're all powered box cars to me.  ) Sorry 'bout that. It was the PA that I did for my friend--two motors per loco, not 4. 

Later,

K


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