# Painting Live Steam locomotives



## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

I am resurrecting my Liberty Belle.  At the present time, I am planning to refurbish, steam to check out for issues, and then see if there is someone out there who wants to give her a new home.  

At this time, the paint on the locomotive is scatched off in places, and on the new cylinder, non-existent.  What do you guys think.  Should I repaint her?  In truth, the smokebox and the cylinders are all that really needs to be painted.  What kind of paint do I use?  look like Roundhouse used one thick coat of paint on this locomotive.

Thoughts?  I'll post some pictures when she's mechanically back together.

Mark


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not familiar enough with this scale's live steam. Is the boiler lagged? If so, you can use any good enamel and it will look good. This is what is done in the larger ride-on scales. If the area to be painted is going to be subjected to extreme heat, you will need to use some kind of high-heat enamel. Krylon makes some great paint that can handle very high temps! I don't know if there is enamel that can be used in an air brush that is high temp. resistant or not. Either way, you will have to strip down the old paint and sand it smooth to get a nice finish! If you can paint the individual parts and then reassemble them, I would suggest "baking" the enamel in your oven for about four hours. It definitely helps make the enamel harden quickly and stand up against scratches. I have set the oven at 200 but some people say no more than 175 degrees. Good luck!


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

For the cylinders, regular Krylon will be fine. I've used it on all my steamers without any trouble. The smokebox may be a bit more problematic, though in truth, I've just used regular Krylon for that as well, then rubbed it with powdered graphite. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Your local auto parts store (Pep Boys is a good option) carries a bunch of high-temp paints designed to make the hot-rod engine look good.


----------



## jazznsteam (Jan 4, 2008)

I used stove paint on the smokebox door of an Accucraft loco, it has held well, and has a nice flat black color.


----------



## Bill4373 (Jan 3, 2008)

Tag Gorton, in his new book, _Live Steam Workshop, _recommends between 50-60 degrees C (or 120-140 degrees F) for a couple of hours.  He also suggests that this is done when a certain person will be out of the house during this period and everything back to the way it was before that person returns. "Don't ask - don't tell"   I use Rust-oleum High Heat matte black designed for barbarque grills, stoves, etc.  I haven't have any problems and I like the matte black.


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

IF you could regualte your outside Gas grill to the proper temp and hold it there could this Paint baking be done that way? I'm just curious? 

Chas


----------



## Bill4373 (Jan 3, 2008)

Tag calls this "hardening of the paint" and says to let it sit overnight after you take it out of the oven.  If you use a heatproof paint you don't need to harden the paint because you already have a heatproof base coat (if you're painting over an already painted engine).  

Once the several feet of snow melts in western NY, you might try it.  Put an oven temperature gauge in the grill to see if you can keep the temperature in that range.  Hopefully your grill has a window in it.  Pete said to try automotive engine paint for a glossy look.  That should work without heating because it'll be heated the first time you fire up.


----------



## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

On our Weber the rep. showed us that you can bake cookies and other items.  Seems that the control would be good enough - especially since there is a thermometer attached to the grill.


----------



## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting idea, grilling a locomotive.

The weber I have has 3 burners, and we have cooked at about 200F with two burners all the way to low.  Maybe one burner would only be 150 F, but I'm not too sure, never tried it. 

Thanks!

Mark


----------



## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I have found the oven works well for low temp baking/curing. I've done this before with auto headlight units. The low heat softens the sealing of the lens and the backing, allowing access to the sealed unit.


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Bill! 

No snow right now where I am but I'm about 5 to 10 miles south of the "traditional" snow belt. Check the snow topic for photos if they posted correctly (Ugh I siimply cannot get the hang of the new "system" for photos.) 

Chas


----------



## Hog Hill (Jan 7, 2008)

Hmmmmm .... been baking paint for a number of years now.  Biggest mistake was a paint bake session after I'd been doing some batch food baking (I'm a house-husband you see...).  The oven was far too hot and never did come down to the minimum setting I'd set it to.  Result - and this was the final coat - Ripmax 2part varnish over Humbrol lining over acrylic car paint over primer over etch primer - the whole lot 'slipped' necessitating a stripdown and start all over again.  Best thing we did when MY kitchen was upgraded was to install a heated plate/pan drawer - brilliant - never gets too hot.

Steve Tompson
Bearsted, UK


----------



## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been using a cheap toaster oven from one of the Marts for years. Temp. regulates ok but I use a seperate oven thermometer just to make sure. Did this in my HO days and now for live steam parts. After an hour or two at 200 to 250 degrees F, I turn it off and let the parts set for 24 or more hours. Only problems I have had is when I try to rush the job. 
Noel


----------



## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok, 

So it seems like it would be best to bake the paint on once I am ready to paint.  

If the paint is somewhat chipped on the smokebox, I assume it would be best to remove all the paint and start over, right?  The boiler is OK.  Now, how does a roundhouse smokebox come off?  

Did you cure the paint before reassembly or did you paint, assemble, cure?  I think the this is probably the right order, since it will allow me the chance to touch up any scratches before final baking.  

What about all the RC stuff, like servos and wiring?  I imagine it is all PVC wiring and the servos are plastic.  Did you remove them?  

Is it really necessary to bake the paint?  Won't the paint cure when the locomotive is fired up?

What did you guys use for graphite?  I am thinking I'd like to graphite the smokebox if I am going to repaint it.  Currently, it is black.

Mark


----------

