# Need trestle bent jig



## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Spent 4 hours! ripping old weathered banisters into 1/2" squares... OH my back!

















Now, I am aware of some $100 jigs out there that would make life simple but.... $$$$ !!!!

Does anyone have instructions or can help me in building one for bents up to 4' tall please?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Sure..., build your first "bent" to your liking. Once complete, lay it on a sheet of wood and add pieces of wood around the "sticks" so that you can easily replicate the pattern.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

What should the measurements be ?


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Pretty good diagrams on how to build trestle:  RGS Trestle


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

John, I'm surprised that the pile of sawdust is not bigger than the word pile.....









I've made a bent jig from some wood siding and pieces of wood. Here's what it looks like...










Air nailer, jig and bent... 










Stack of bents. When I start with the precut sized wood, I can make about 1 a minute.... 










Finished bent in the dip stain tank.


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## jnic (Jan 2, 2008)

Try this:
















Cut the parts from 1/2" plywood, nail to another piece of plywood and proceed as Stan described above. 


john


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

perfect! thanks guys.


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

John, All my trestles are on 8 inch storey height and 8 inch bent spacing. It may not be prototypical, but works for me.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

John, 

There are several trestles on this web site you might want to reference. 

http://prr.railfan.net/ 

Bob C.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

uh...thanks Bob, but where on that site? It is sooooooooo extensive! the largest freight car order in history is mind numbing, I wish I could place that order in G scale, Robbie at RLD would faint on me!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks guys! Stan, what is in your stain tank? I am thinking of using used motor oil .... cheap and plenty on hand.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Bible Grove, 

That's a pretty cool photo of a heap of wood. Nice idea to salvage too.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

most of the sawdust went in the vacuum, worked like a charm.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 09 Mar 2010 07:37 AM 
Thanks guys! Stan, what is in your stain tank? I am thinking of using used motor oil .... cheap and plenty on hand. The stain tank is a turkey roasting pan from the 99 cent store..







For larger bents you may need to build a bigger tank or soaking pan. Used motor oil probably would have the same effect as creosote and really never dry. 

I think you're better off with an exterior stain. Could be thinned 1:1 if desired. Let 'em soak for quite a while.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Wallly Mall has those plastic tubs ya know, well they make a long flat one for wrapping paper. I am going to get another one of those and hope it's wide enough. Probably not for the 4' tall bents eh! Well, I have allot of projects going now but look forward to creating the jig next time I have my table saw out. Raining now.... what flavor stain replicates keresote well? Just the darkest stuff available?


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

You can make your own paint dunking tray out of scrap plywood for the base, 2"x2"s frame and drape a plastic drip cloth over it. Even taper the shape to save on the amount of stain you need to cover the trestle.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

Middle bent staright and the next ouside ones 1 to 12 ratio and the out side of those is a 2 to 12 ratio.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Great idea Wesley! Dan, I have no idear what you speak of... lol


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

It is not a good idea to let your wood sit in wet soil or water. I use double bull-nosed bricks as piers to set mine on. As a bonus, these are glazed and fired so water will not "wick" up to the wood. If you go with something like this, you will need to consider the bottom spacing of the bents. There are also half bull-nosed (more common), that would let you make the piers twice as long.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Dan gave you the leg angles to set them at. 
A triangle is the strongest shape, so the outer legs are angled to the top. 
Especially imporatant on curves where lateral forces could knock over a parallel leg bent. Diagonal cross bracing is added for that.


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey John,
Here is a link to a fantastic PRR diagram from the site Bob referenced. Similar drawings can be found using the 'Next' and 'Previous' buttons.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

ok 
Todd, this is exactly what I plan on using from your input on a previous thread... Perfect! I can always cut the curved outside ends square if using more than one for width. Unless I can find square ones? I have never seen the double bull-nosed ones like yours. There is a Pavestone plant about 30 miles from my home so if they make them, I can get 'em... ? what mfg are yours? Pavestone or Castlestone or something all together different?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 09 Mar 2010 10:29 AM 
ok 
Todd, this is exactly what I plan on using from your input on a previous thread... Perfect! I can always cut the curved outside ends square if using more than one for width. Unless I can find square ones? I have never seen the double bull-nosed ones like yours. There is a Pavestone plant about 30 miles from my home so if they make them, I can get 'em... ? what mfg are yours? Pavestone or Castlestone or something all together different? 


Don't recall the manufacturer, but you should be able to find them on the web.

There is no need to cut these. You can also get "single bull-nosed bricks" that have the curve on one side but are straight on the other. Put the two straight sides together and you have a double bull nosed brick that is twice as long, and certainly long enough for anything in G-scale unless your bents are huge.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

The inside 1 or 2 sports go straight up and down the next one to the left and right of the center is on a 1" out to 12"tall angle and then the 2 next supports are on more of an angle of 2" out for 12 rise.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_pEt44e2Y5...rawing.jpg

Look Here......


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

I will be building one out of 1/2 STEEL soon about 30" tall and 28 feet long with a curve in it, powder coated. When I am done some one can borrow the jig!!!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I see now Dan, thanks for the explanation. I TOO thought of using steel instead of wood on the beer line (refreshment line) to the pool... 









Are you going to use the same methods?


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

I am building some 7' tall piers right now to goto SC and going to use 2' steel channel on edge for in which the track will be fastened to. all on min 7' radius. The whole bridge is about 36 feet long and has 2 areas designed with bridge to walk under. This could work great around that pool... easy to mow!!!!!!!!!! around are just but mulch around each pier. I can e-mail some pics if you want.


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## Trainwreckfilms (Aug 19, 2009)

I didnt do anything to mine... and they weathered perfectly... Ill post a photo soon... and i just set the bents in the dirt and they hold soo well I can stand on my bridge!


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

They should be treated if you live in a wet part of the country. Untreated wood doesn't last long in Virginia. The ground stays moist a good part of the year. If you live in the arid parts of the west it probably isn't necessary. 

Stan lives in a transition zone where it can be wet sometimes, like this year, and dry at other times. It is better to be safe than sorry. It is a lot of work to build a trestle and you want it to last as long as possible.


It also depends on the wood that you are using. From my experience, redwood will last a long time. A redwood picnic table that I built in 1970 when I lived in Menlo Park, Ca is still fine after 22 years in Denver and 18 years in Virginia. Virginia has been hardest on it, but it still is in pretty good (usable) shape. 


Looking at your picture I would guess that you live in east-central Tennessee, or a very similar part of the eastern US. In that environment treating the wood would be a good idea. 



Chuck


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Southern Illinois Chuck and the pool area will get lots of sun and warm breezes. I will now be treating the trestles with the same stain as my decks and outdoor bar! Now I just need to decide which kind/color. Dan PLEASE post some pictures! I have an 8' steel, walk under bridge to build and keep putting it off! Although I already have a new Mig welder, metal cutting discs for grinder, a REAL sand blaster for the welds etc. before going to local powder coater that has been waiting to see this project himself! RRRRRRRRRRRRRRR any pictures and stuff you can post would be great! 
Thanks all, this is turning out to be a plethora of great info on this subject.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

sence you got a welder I can give you a drawing and pics of my templete....


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/danielpeck/Bridges in SC/ 

See if this works....


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

dAN, THIS IS EXACTLY SAME TYPE BRIDGE i HAD in mind in making! thanks for the photos. I am thinking the supports are too many and too close together though??? Were there structural reasons for this? AND I sure hope you are placing some guardrails on there!


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

no guardrails on them... the new section is farther spaed out. Due to the hight thier are place close together. you can walk on it thou.......


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Could you get me a list of materials used and where located in these bents?


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

I will give you a list this weekend per a bent with cut list. theycost me about $65 each for a 7' on not counting cutting and welding time up rights and horizon pieces are 3/4 angle and the cross pieces are 1/2 sq tubing and 1/8 X 1/2 flat stock.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Would it be correct to use the same jig as the wooden trestle discussed above? My brother in law owns a machine shop, I can get steel for cost! Still lots of $$$$$$


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

you can...I liike steel cause it can with stand a lot of abuse adn once powered coated no more maintance.... expensive can be. I takes about 40 feet of 3/4 angle 25 feet of 1/2 square and 25 feet of 1/2 flat


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

The designs above were used for wooden trestles. I don't see why you couldn't make them from steel, but I'd suggest looking at the designs used for steel trestles, they were quite a bit different:  Steel Trestle


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Holy Moly that pic is AWESOME! Ok OK who can post plans on this steel type?


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## sldozier (Apr 5, 2009)

Stan, if you don't mind me asking! What size are your bents? I'm a bad judge of size, but in the picture they seem larger than than the typical 1/2" square! Thanks!


Stefan 



Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 08 Mar 2010 05:22 PM John, I'm surprised that the pile of sawdust is not bigger than the word pile..... I've made a bent jig from some wood siding and pieces of wood. Here's what it looks like...Air nailer, jig and bent... Stack of bents. When I start with the precut sized wood, I can make about 1 a minute....


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Actually Stefan, the pieces are slightly under 1/2 inch square. I set the saw for just a "tad" under 1/2 inch and let the blade wobble do the rest.







I have a cheap (strike that) inexpensive direct drive table saw. Sure wish I had a good belt driven one. 

I was able to cut the boards quite quickly and make on very large mound of sawdust. I use 1 x 6 dogear cedar fencing for the bent and I think the cross stringers are about 6 inches. The ones in the pile are 8-10 inches tall.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 13 Mar 2010 07:19 PM 
Actually Stefan, the pieces are slightly under 1/2 inch square. I set the saw for just a "tad" under 1/2 inch and let the blade wobble do the rest.







I have a cheap (strike that) inexpensive direct drive table saw. Sure wish I had a good belt driven one. 

I was able to cut the boards quite quickly and make on very large mound of sawdust. I use 1 x 6 dogear cedar fencing for the bent and I think the cross stringers are about 6 inches. The ones in the pile are 8-10 inches tall.




Stan....The term you are looking for is not cheap but "COST EFFECTIVE

Then on the other hand you could say " I have the spanish modle. El Cheapo"


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

How do I make a jig for a trestle like this?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

your jig would be a half pipe for your notches, lay your log and rasp the divots. Remember Lincoln Logs? 
Because it's a curving pyramid you'll need several of 'em. 
There you go!


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/danielpeck/Bridges in SC/ 

New pics and information uploaded on the piers.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By barnmichael on 14 Mar 2010 08:47 PM 
How do I make a jig for a trestle like this?











Lincoln Logs, Michael. Lincoln Logs...


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome steel trestle Daniel! Did you work from a specific design? If so can you send a link or post more information?


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

Posted By jimtyp on 15 Mar 2010 11:16 AM 
Awesome steel trestle Daniel! Did you work from a specific design? If so can you send a link or post more information? 

It was made base on the existing piers on the customers layout. He want to keep the same type look. I will finish the last 3 piers tonight after work and build a 4 foot bridge between two of the pires. they all are made with a 2 persect gradeinto them tofit his layout. I do build custom bridges for people local "2 hr drive one way" and deliver in person to keep from damage in shiping. I will get a good pic from outside when done with all the piers and yo support on outside. I am working on a better drawing to post on the internet for you all to use.


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/danielpeck/Bridges in SC/ 

New updated pics from last nights welding enjoy.....


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I should have stained the timbers BEFORE assembly! but I had planned on just soaking them in used motor oil in a tub after assembly... well I've decided to change to a Redwood stain. I am afraid I would waste too much stain if poured in a trough for the bents. Brushung it on after assembly stinks and I learned the hard way... NOW? There must be an easier way to maybe spray this stuff on with either a compressed bug sprayer or a simple squirt bottle? Any ideas please?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Bite the bullet. 
Dedicate a gallon for structures, pour it out and dip. After; strain through nylon hose back into the can. 
All your other ideas are not much more economical. 

John


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

As above.. 

I made a shallow wooden tray large enough to hold the tallest bent, flat ply base and 1" x 1" sides. Line with plastic sheet and dip away. Stand the finished ones in another (smaller) tray to drain and return the excess to the main trough. 

I can see nice progress in the background. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks! I used the backside of my trestle jig for a dip tray, using a heavy duty banner. I am afraid it is not deep enough for dipping and since I only had a quart of stain.... I dilluted it with water to stretch it out and used pump sprayer. Less brushing involved but still a major pain. The loving wife happened to pick me up another GALLON of stain last night! Now, wishing and hoping the tray is deep enough....I may have to modify but I done cut the liner! RRRRRRRRRRR


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

What if.... 
Instead of a big flat area, for dipping, make a deep narrow tank and dip one side at a time (on edge). 
It needs only be as deep as 1/2 the widest part of a bent. 
2 dips has got to be faster than anything else. 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

GREAT IDEA! now... what would I use that would not leak? hhhhhhhhmmmmmmmm My ears are a smokin'


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Well John... I could not think of anything to build vertically but it's a superb idea! I went ahead and finished the way I started and just pushed through it... pump sprayer and brush 
NOW... upon assembly I have already started placing bents on top of poured concrete pad... BUT... it is almost impossible to trim to fit so the top is level etc. I figured I would just cut to fit up to the PVC pipe I have on top of them and hope for the best... 
My next question is... WHY could I not just place them and pour pad around the bottoms. Will the crete cause them to rot faster?


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Whoops - hope I didn't put you too wrong John, looking at the photos my bents were a lot thinner, (1/2" uprights, 2 x 1/8" bracing). Shallow dip and a bit of a swish around did it. 

Glad you got it done, and looking forward to the leveling ideas. For better or worse mine are in concrete. : ( 

Cheers 
Neil


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Well I guess you just bit a different bullet! Good Job. 

I'd have thrown together a wood frame and used a large trash bag corner as a liner. 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

thanks allot Neil, I guess I'll just start over! 
lol just JOKING!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Just found 2 more large bents hidden in the corner and forgot about some cribbung I had made too!







RRRRRRRRR


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

No worries, cant wait to see it after you spike the track..

I mean, you ARE going to hand lay the track across it aint ya?









Cheers
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

uh.... no hand layin for me, my crew is not that talented


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

ok guys, I looked but can't find reccomended bent spacing to confirm my thoughts of remembering it being like every 6" apart or so? Man if this is the case, I got lots more bents to make! RRRRRRRRRRRRR


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

OF COURSE I calculated wrong and need twice as many bents! 34 down and 34 more to make!


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 09 Jul 2010 03:31 PM 
ok guys, I looked but can't find reccomended bent spacing to confirm my thoughts of remembering it being like every 6" apart or so? Man if this is the case, I got lots more bents to make! RRRRRRRRRRRRR 
6 inches is right!! Regal


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## ralphie1954 (Jul 10, 2010)

Hi John, your railroad is really taking shape. Don't feel bad about miscalculating the number of bents. Here in Stuart, FL the pro's built the Roosevelt Bridge, a prefab concrete 6 lane bridge that was trucked to the site in sections. When they finished using all the pieces they were 40 ft short and had to have the factory make a special section to complete the bridge. Keep us posted on your progress. Ralphie


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks guys... this time I ripped the timbers and stained them BEFORE assembly. I hope this makes things easier....I will start the massive task of building more bents tomorrow after church service. Tonight, I have finished the box girder bridge I have threaded on MLS as well. I think I am going to shortin' it though, but since I won't have a use for the other 1/2 might just leave it long. The only problem is that where it going to be located - it is horizontal with a hillside and not much above the ground at all. OH the decisions of building something from scratch eh? I LOVE IT!


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

FYI, below is a link from the Greater Cincinnati Garden Railway Society site which provides dimensions for making trestles. Building a jig should be easily done from the drawing. 

Look for the trestle link on the page which opens. 

Hope this helps, 

Will 

http://www.gcgrs.org/Files.asp


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow that is a lot of trestle. Looking good. Later RJD


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I cannot believe I started this project back in MARCH! FINALLY all bents are built, stained and in place. As you can tell the first run is atop concrete bed and I have decided to true up the bents and then pour a concrete bed around the bottoms on the rest. I have killed the grass and would like to pour 3-4 inches right no top of dead grass but I worry and wonder if the turf layer of grass/roots HAS to be removed 1st? I am getting tired of this project fast. Although I am finally finished building bents, I kinda feel bad because I was so accustomed to mass producing these things with a killer fast method down pat after doing so many. I am about to call some "friends" and con them into helping me finish this project one day soon! 









Although it looks like a steep grade, it's actually quite level with top of pool...
I thought I would use a box girder for the last 8' to the pool with concrete piers set in concrete.


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Hang in there, its looking great. 

Have you got a photo from the other side? 

Cheers 
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I will use a 4' level on top but not sure if I should go ahead and place the top 2 stringers on 1st? on each side of the PVC. Aren't they to be directly above the center timbers in the bents and directly under the rails? I will also place the side/cross stringers (much thinner timbers) on before pouring base to secure.


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 21 Jul 2010 06:24 AM Aren't they to be directly above the center timbers in the bents and directly under the rails? I believe so John, from the drawings I've seen - others may know for sure.. OTOH its your tresle and you're in charge!

If the bents are lined up and level then the stringers should follow suit - I'd start with levelling the bents first, then tidying up the stringers should be a quick job with a plane(r) or belt sander at the end if they need a tickle. Make sure the PVC pipe hasn't sagged slightly between the supports if you are using that as a benchmark.



A 4' level may be too short for getting that length of trestle dead level to my thinking (assuming thats what you're after). Maybe if you've got one of those fancy digital ones it takes care of the slight variations that come in eyeballing a small bubble every 2' or so?? Maybe as a double check use a string line and string level to get end to end and mid point checks. Make sure the string is pulled nice 'n tight tho, high C is a good note when ya give it a twang..









Can't wait to see some track on it.

Cheers
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

thanks, string level sounds good... i think I will wait until my bumb thumb heals now....TABLE SAW GOT ME!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Yikes! keep your hands away from that blade! Oh a little late you say? Que serra! My thumb healed nicely! 
I'd suggest a lazer level, at least you could pivot that, it's hard to pull a string tight on a curve.... your eyeball might be your best sighting tool. 
Be sure it's level from side to side and the trestle is slow running.... 
Looking good and sure will be impressive once finnishd. 

John


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

That looks great. 

I have a desert wind problem here in AZ. I have to have sides of some sorts on my bridges and trestles


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

John, I think you are mostly correct by using the naked eye mostly. From inside the pool I can kneel down and compare the side of the pool (evel) with the top of the PVC/trestle and indicate levelness quite well. I have raised some with small supports and figure that will work with low spots until bases are dried in concrete....
ANYONE WANNA SEE MY THUMB? add another $1,000+ to the cost of this project from the ER trip
WARNING!
DON'T TAKE CHANCES WITH TABLE SAWS. I was using too small of lumber and could have saved my finger by simply using a longer board to rip!







GOD KNOWS I FEEL SOOOOOOOO STUPID


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

although very embarassed, it's worth being humbled if it prevents ANYone similar harm! 
YES, it could have been MUCH worse.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Push Sticks are cheap, blood isn't! 
Dang you should have posted a warning about that pic!!! 
Mine was nothing compared to yours I barely knicked the thumbnail... still got light headed ... imagining the worst! 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I was using push stick, my hand slipped at start of cut


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Longer stick! 

mine healed with out stitches...


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

Those are the worst stitches I've ever seen! Where did you go, Jr High Home Ec class? Gonna have a nasty scar from that.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

wel he was not going to stitch it because it was so bad and did not think the tissue would hold them.... I made him do it or the scar (i think) would have been much worse if not pulled back together at all.


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