# Need ideas how to actuate a turnout



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello All
I'm setting up a junction area that will see alot of action and the trouble is 2 of the switches are not easy to get to and I need to be able to "power" these. Power may not be the best word since I don't want to use electricity. When I built my freight yard tht goes under steps there were 3 switches that were under the stairs so what I did there was use automotive choke cables. This setup worked well up to 4 feet away but not longer distances. Then came the winter and the choke cables even though I had lubed them pretty good had rusted up. 
Is there a plastic pipe/tube that I could use to push or pull my switches accordingly? I'm looking to reach about 9 feet and of course I don't want to spend alot.
Any ideas?
Todd


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Run a string through your pipe. At the switch have the push side controlled by a spring and the pull side by the string. 
The Spring holds the points closed and the string pulls them open... 

String or chain or fishing line or.... At your end have a knob on the end and a slotted board to hold it 

Hey you wanted low tech! 

John


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

That is low tech, inexpensive and do able. I never thought of using a spring. I thought that I needed something rigid like the choke cables to be able to push and pull the turnouts. Hmmmm now you have me thinking. I have some old plastic cutting boards I could use as bases and screw supports and springs etc.. to them..... Thanks John 
Any other ideas out there?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

How about the air actuators that are back on the market? 

Springs work well - I second John's suggestion.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

1/4 inch plastic tubing like they use for water supply for evaporative coolers and some Piano wire. Make like a choke cable but the confines will be looser and rusting will not be a issue. 

Or 1/4 copper tubing. Might be a little more expensive You can use small plastic straps like the metal ones they use for conduit to hold you plastic tubing rigidly in place. The rigid mounting of the plastic tube may be essential for the "choke cable" action 


JJ


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello 
Rigid mounting of the cables is essential for the push and pull action. When I used the choke cables in my yard that time I was able to really secure them because my yard is on a platform. I think if I use a plastic tube, maybe a water line for a ice maker, I can secure it to the underside of the track then use electric cable tie downs when I get to the cutting board piece where the switch will be mounted. On the other end I can mount them to solid wood. It doesn't take alot of movement to slide a switch bbut it does need to be tight. Does piano wire come in say a 10' length, it doesn't rust? and how much does that cost? 
Thanks guys for all the ideas. Keep em coming if you got somemore.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

It is know in some places as MUSIC WIRE. I pay about 5 bucks a spool. The kind I got is sold by the pound. What I have is .059 ciameter paid 5.19 for 1/4 LB I use it to make zig zag springs for my switches. Looking at what I got it seems to be atleast 30 to 40 feet. Says SPRING TEMPERED WIRE.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I just added a new double crossover using the new air actuators from Sunset Valley. I also have some turnouts using the no longer available EZaire system that have been in for 5 years with no problems. The crossover is Sunset Valley code 250 #8 turnouts with their matching cross track. Two of the motors are mounted above the ties and two underneath because of clearance requirements for the crossover. Center to center is 7 inches. The contol box is a outdoor electrical box with a blank cover. Auto striping tape to represent the track. I have a compressor and storage tank in the garage that powers the system. The is no electricity at all on the layout. Here are a few photos.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Paul, since I use the ez-air stuff too, I'll be interested in your long term experiences with the Clippard equipment. Sure wish the main rod was SS not brass. 

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

You could use the "pushrods/tubes" that are used on radio control planes that go between the servos and tail fins. Because servos have limited torque, these are typically "low friction."


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
Time will tell. I talked to Pete about it at the BTS. He doesn't think it will be a problem. Clippard makes a lot of different actuators. The ones Pete is using are a lot bigger than the EZaire actuators. If there are any failures in the future I will report back. The toggles are much smaller and release air much quicker than the EZaire toggle which gives a snappier action to the actuators. Didn't like it at first but the quicker operation and release tends to knock any grit off the points which is a plus.


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## Alan Prichard (Dec 27, 2007)

I noticed nobody mentioned using bicycle brake lines. Bike shops sell it by the foot, and it is available with teflon lining. You would still need to lube it now and then, but without a metal/metal contact it should work better than auto clutch line.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The auto choke line has the advantage of being able to pull and push. 

Your bike cable can pull but not push, so you would also need a return spring at the turnout. 

Regards, Greg


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## Alan Prichard (Dec 27, 2007)

I imagine solid wire of the correct diameter could maybe be used in the bike cable housing instead of wire cable, enabling push/pull. The housing would of course need to be anchored. I have a switch in need of remote activation and will experiment.


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