# kaydee uncoupling



## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Back in Feb this year, there was a thread about a "O"scale kaydee uncoupler. 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

I would like to try something like this, but the link to all the details is broken. Did anyone try this? If so how did it work in "G"?

Thanks

Ray


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I have couplers that work on my RDC 

I used AMS coupler which works well with kadee and a tortoise switch machine to trip the pin on the coupler 


my large scale repair guy liked it so well he did the same with LGB knuckle



if you run number one couplers you can use lionel couplers as they are the same as a number one kadee

I have also trimed and glued bits to a lionel to make it work with the g-scale kadee


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

I am using gauge 1 couplers, but am putting it in a slope back tender. It already has a digitrax decoder, and sound with speaker. Not enough room left for a tortois. How are activating the tortois? I have got a HO switch machine as the original post stated. One tought is that this cannot work with truck mounted couplers as the linkage would have to pivit. Hmmm, going to ave change that. I will keep playing around with it. 

Ray


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Ray, you can use Accucraft's new 1:32 couplers if you're looking for remote uncoupling a la Scott's method. (Scott, you have photos? That sounds intriguing!) I've been using the Accucraft 1:32 couplers since June or so, and have been very pleased with their performance. I'm slowly converting my entire fleet over to them.They're a drop-in replacement for the Kadee 820. Doesn't help truck-mounted couplers, but they're completely compatible with Kadee's #1, so you could leave the truck-mounted ones in place. 

If you've got a DCC decoder already, you could try one of the servo-driving DCC decoders (don't know how large those boards are) with a micro-servo which is pretty small, probably even fit below the frame of the tender. 

Later, 

K


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

I never thought about servo's, I will look into that. As for the accucraft couplers, I just went to there web site, and couldn't find anything related to them. Where did you get them from? and whay are you changing from kaydees?? 

Ray


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

if you are doing a kadee number one then I would use a lional electro coupler


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

With Dcc I would use a relay to send power to this puppy as it draws like an amp 

but it is small enough you could toung mount it and if you look around there is diffrent mountings on them .


I was also playing with a cap to store the enery to pop the coupler and the relay changes the cap from fill from track to dump into coupler as it only takes a moment of power to pop 


I will try to answer more qustions about it tomarrow but right now I cannot think as it was a looong day at the store with chrismas


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Where did you get them from? and whay are you changing from kaydees?? 
I haven't found them on the web site either, but they're part #AP11-738. I get them from Caboose (sku - 101011738) for $6.83/pair. I'm switching because they have a much more scale look in the knuckle than the Kadees, and operate with cut levers. I much prefer using cut levers than either inserting a flat-bladed screwdriver and twisting or (more typically) lifting the car to uncouple. Operationally, they're completely compatible with the Kadees, so I've just been buying a pair or two every time I visit Caboose. My next step is to sit down and bend up a bunch of cut levers. 

Later, 

K


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I am also very fond of the looks of the AMS number one type coupler 

I have had them in the store since they came out but I think I am the only one buying them 

took some bad pictures below 

like the other ams couplers when the lift bar pulls up on the pin the coupler pops open so if you make the lift bar work with a tortouse or the like you can pop it remotely also they work very well with kadee's 

and you just need to pop one to uncouple which is unlike the kadee 

the RDC is packed away right now so no picture sorry


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

another try at more bad pictures of the ams number 1 type coupler


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I like those.

Been considering KD #1's for years, but haven't done anything about it.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Scott, whose cut levers and brackets are those? The levers are easy enough to bend, but I've been looking for good brackets castings. 

Later, 

K


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

the brackets are from trackside detals

http://www.tracksidedetails.com/parts1-50/page4.html

part td-26

the lift bars I bent from k-s music wire which is a harder steel wire I then blackened it as well as the brackets and dusted a little aim rust on


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cool! Definitely swinging by Caboose on my way into work tomorrow.  

Later, 

K


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

back to electro couplers

I did modify one lional coupler to fit the G type kadee coupler but it has not been outside to see how it holds up


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

also to control a tortoise machine with a fuction on a dcc decoder ( i like to use F3 so the sound happens at the same time) 
I used a full wave bridge to make the dcc power dc 
I then send the power to a DPDT relay so when it is active it will change the polarty to the switch machine 
then I use the fuction lead to activate the relay and add the rebound dioide


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Scott, 

What would you power the electrocoupler with? Being Lionel, I would assume it is AC. I have played around with the switch machine idea from the original post, and have had some problems. (thought I would try as I had it anyway) I ran the a dtdp relay off the decoder, full wave rectifier to the switch machine from the track power, and although it worked, the switch machine does not have the power to pull the coupler back far enough to un-couple. 
I have looked into a servo decoder by tam, but in his video he is setting it up as a accesory decoder. You use the switch function to move it. How does this work if the decoder is in a car? And , although no one has said that they are, I am using RR&Co to run this, so can I have a switch work that is not connected to the track? The last question is probably for another forum. 

Still interested in the lionel coupler. Any ideas on how to set this up? 

Thanks 

Ray


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

The Lionel coupler, being a solenoid device should work on AC or DC.


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I do not use kadee couplers for convertion as both couplers have to be open for it to work 

if you have to try useing the kayde you will need to trim some or all of the hook from the coupler 


if you are going to do this you are better off with a AMS coupler or a LGB 


on the AMS there is a pin on top that if pulled up on will cause the coupler to pop open this was ment for the cut lever 

I made a loop at the coupler end so the coupler could swing side to side and a arm back through the body so the tortouse could rase and lower this pin 


if you try to hook srtight to the knuckle then what ever you use to move the knuckle will have to hold the weight of the whole train when you are on the move 

buy useing the pin on the AMS coupler the weight is againest the pin not the tortouse machine

sorry if you miss understood 


buy the way the kadee and the ams couplers mate with no problems


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Scott,
you said you have the ACM couplers in store? Maybe you could send a e-mail and we can work the details.

Thanks

Ray


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## rmcintir (Apr 24, 2009)

I just bought a couple Lionel G gauge remote controlled couplers, yes they are actually G gauge! Here is a short video I made of one on my Piko 0-6-0. The loco is battery powered with my own RC system and a My Loco Sound card. The Piko boxcar has Bachmann couplers on it. I also tried this with Kadee and they seem to work fine too. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X61M9Fb224Q 

I found the couplers on Ebay while searching for something else. I just had to try them, 

russ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you can't find them, I have a pile of the AML Knuckle couplers that came with my AML box cars. I'd sell them for reasonable (whatever that is). 

Greg


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## rmcintir (Apr 24, 2009)

Here is a link to the coupler I used. It is actually G gauge and works pretty well. I've tested with Bachmann and Kadee with success. There is no way it is going to work with Aristocraft couplers. If anyone has a Lionel part number for this electrocoupler I would appreciate it. I did a search on Google and didn't find anything for G scale. I don't know if they are still available or if this is a one shot deal on ebay. I hope they are still available.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330510436935&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT 

russ


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I found the part number for the g-scale electro coupler or coil coupler the is for sale on e-bay 

and you can still get it from lionel for just over 5 bucks

818-5014-550 is the number you are looking for


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It would be great to know the voltage and current required to operate. Can you measure those for us? 

Thanks, Greg


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

sure it will take just a min


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

min voltage is 6 volts but it works better at 9 volts and up 

at lower voltage current draw was 3/4 of an amp and at higher voltage I saw as much as 1.25 amps 

of course you only need a instant of power to trip


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

This is an interesting topic. I have a couple MTH O scale electric couplers that I have been experimenting with. Basically the same as the Lionel. Size wise they are a pretty good match for the Kadee #1 scale coupler. It only took me about 15 minutes of filing on the knuckle to make it work very well with the Kadee. I use Airwire to control my trains. If the Aux outputs on the Airwire decoder could be programed for momentary operation it would be a simple install. But they are on/off only so something else will have to be worked out.


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I started this thread out with the lionel o-gauge coupler

but we are now talking about the lionel G-gauge coupler 


and you could just do the circut below to make your fuction momintery


drawing


[url="


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, a fair amount of current, but I guess not really surprising based on where it came from. 

Thanks for the info Scott! 

Greg


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

it was more then I thought it would be but it is for just a moment in time 

but it is a shame you could not hook it stright up to a fuction as it would keep the cost down


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The other components are cheap, maybe a couple of bucks for the relay... a buck in other parts... 

Greg


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