# Conversion of Accucraft 2-6-0 to 4-4-0



## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Folks,

I am in the midst of the above conversion. I remember that Larry Hergert did the same conversion some years ago. Can someone tell me the best way to remove the drivers from the axle so I can swap out the blind center drivers for the flanged front drivers?
Thanks
Mike McCormack
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike, 
Why do you wnat to do that? Unless there is something I am missing, all you need to do is swap out the driver sets. Take out the blind driver set and drop in the flanged driver set. 
Noel


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I think it's more complicated than that Noel as the eccentrics are on the middle axle. As for removing the wheels, If memory serves, Dave Hottmann supported the wheel in a vise and tapped the axle out using a punch. Getting then properly re-quartered will be the real trick unless you do both front and rear wheelsets.


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Noel, 
Dwight hit the nail on the head. I need to move the eccentrics to the flanged driver set. I had considered the brute force method with vise, hammer and punch but the drivers appear to have a residue around the axle that looks like a LOCTITE of some kind. Might have to heat the axle first to break the LOCTITE hold and then punch the axle out. 

I will most likely make a jig to re-quarter the drivers back to original specs. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ahhh forgot that the eccentrics are on the middle axle on this one. Do you know that quite a number of 4-4-0's had BLIND leading drivers. Saw one at the museum in St. Louis. I believe those that did had a ridged front truck. Just a thought. You can tap out the axle with a vice and hammer but it is a pain. May want to make a small wheel puller. Not too difficult. 
N


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

NWSL used to make "The Puller" for polling wheels and gears off axles, but it doesn't look like they make it anymore, and it would probably be too small anyway. NWSL does make their "SensiPress" which might work if you made a supporting fixture for the wheel to sit on the press table.


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a arbor press I got from Harbor Freight. Works great. Even pressed the drivers back on the axle with it. The NW Shortline stuff is too light and small. It is mainly designed for HO and O. 
N


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

First let me say I am not a machinist, so this advice is worth no more than what you payed for it LOL. 

I used a drill press and some 1-2-3 blocks for press on wheels. Took a piece of drill stock slightly less than the diameter of the axel and chucked it into the press. Set the wheel so it was resting on the blocks and the other end went through the hole in the middle of the press table (or you could use a vise if the hole is not large enough). Then I could firmly press the axle out of the wheels. Flip and press the other axle out. It worked for me. 

To press on new wheels, I just used a vice and some wood blocks. Just slowly tighten the vice until the back-to-back measurement is correct. 

Hope this helps.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you know that quite a number of 4-4-0's had BLIND leading drivers 
The "William Mason" in the B&O Railroad Museum (right down the street from you, Noel,) has blind leading drivers. 

No only that, but the 4-6-0 "Thatcher Perkins" sitting next to it has blind center AND leading drivers !! 

To get back on topic, I think Jeff Redeker did this conversion already. [You have to contact him via his Dad: Alan-of-Adirondacks. Alan - come in please?]


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, 

Jeff did a conversion based on the one that Dave Hottman did before Accucraft came out with the 4-4-0. Jeff has run the wheels off his conversion and has been his go-to engine for almost three years. He did the same thing pressing the flanged and blind drivers on and off the first two axles. 

The side rods also need to be addressed because of the pivot joint between the 2nd and 3rd driver. Jeff made his solid with a quick and dirty method using some rectangular brass tubing slip fit over the cut first rod --- held in place with JB Weld. (as opposed to Dave Hottman's silver soldered new rods). Jeff also modified the frame in the area of the first driver and made a simple four wheel pilot truck. 



Perhaps someone can find dave Hottman's thread in the archived live steam forum for reference. 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

"Perhaps someone can find dave Hottman's thread in the archived live steam forum for reference. " 

Found two......... 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...Default.aspx?TOPIC_ID=41182&SearchTerms=4-4-0 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...Default.aspx?TOPIC_ID=31418&SearchTerms=4-4-0 

Larry


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry/redbeard had the correct address for the threads I was looking for. Here they are as links:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...C_ID=41182

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...C_ID=31418


Below are a couple of pictures of the progression of Jeff's used-to-be-a-mogul AKA the Frankenmogul:

Scranton Feb 2007 after he had owned the mogul for less than a month....


















ECLSTS March 2007 with light, stack and rear pilot










Jim Brown's meet 2007 final configuration as Santa Cruz & Felton #3 with lettering and rear headlight.










Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Alan


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Thanks for all the good info and great pictures of other conversions. I'll be swapping the drivers this weekend and will report the results.
Thanks.
Mike McCormack
Hudson, Massachusetts


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