# Aluminum Passenger Car



## rocketrider (May 6, 2008)

Anyone had success cutting a USA Alum passenger car. Converting an observation to a dome/observation. 

Thought about a fine tooth blade for my table saw and make small cuts until I reach the desired depth. Do not know if that will work.

I think the aluminum is anodized which makes it harder.

What do you think?


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

You can get the dome parts from USA, so that saves you a lot of trouble. If you use your table saw, wear goggles and protective clothing. I think I'd try a hacksaw first, or a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Check around, some one may have a power hacksaw also.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Cutting aluminum is not bad....

Using the table saw..with fine tooth carbide blade ..has some merit..it offers lots of stability..with both hands on the car body...

I'd use masking tape to protect the roof..unless you have a sled or cradle which means the car body roof is not dragging over the table top.
I'd consider the table saw..using it for clearance "cross-cuts" only...where the blade would pass thru the car body. Not full depth here...but close..leave material to do by hand...

This gives two cuts done...then tackle the long wise cuts...maybe a hack saw blade in vise grips here...slow n easy....add a pencil line on the tape to follow..inside the line...you may have to drill a series of starter holes at one end of each side...and stop the cut 1/4" short on the first side to maintain support of the piece being removed...

Then lots of coarse filing...working in as long a strokes as possible...when close!! Start using a fine file...
As usual with this type of rework ...check your work constantly!! Use small fine corner files..to fit and clean up the four corners..or a small flat file...some have a single edge ground flat ..without a cutting surface on it...this can go against the surface while you work on one side of the corner..without over cutting your fit n finish on the other surface....

Have fun ...go slow...Once...!!

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

One point I forgot to mention....
I am not fond of sabre saws...they have their place at times...

But they vibrate too much...they lack proper blade support..
They can wander very easily....
...and then it's "Ooops"....too late.....

Plus you have to find a way to hold and support the car body while your two hands use the sabre saw....

My last choice here....

Dirk


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## daveyb (Feb 28, 2009)

i want to do the same to make a can pac obs/dome car,,,

be interesting to see how you get on


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

In aluminum sheet I use a Dremmel with a high speed milling tool and the router attachment. Carefully scribe the line to which you want to cut (I use an unwashable fine point ink felt pen)and then hold firmly (this takes a good bit of training, I know...) the Dremmel and through a hole cut in the part you want to cut out, follow your line. Now I use more and more an abrafile, as I can cut real close to my line and not have to make allowance for when it grabs and skips. Wear goggles if you use the Dremmel. You then have to finish with a file to your scribed line.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Some bandsaws can cut metal. Might check around and find a welding shop that would make the cuts for you. Order the USA dome car parts first so you know exactly where you want it to be cut. I used a circular saw when I was making a dome car from scratch. Whichever method you use, wear some good eye protection. On the MTH car I converted to a dome car I used some metal duct tape to hide the cuts.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I found when cutting aluminium with a carbide toothed blade, the blade that had all the teeth going straight across with a flat bevel worked well leaving a clean cut. It chiseled it's way through. 
Blades that had teeth with an alternating bevel left and right were rough and left swarf alongside the cut. It gouged it's way though the metal. I think they are better for cross cutting timber for a clean edge

Andrew


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## Santafe 2343 (Jan 2, 2008)

*I have one that I started but never finished, just need a little filing , painted and put back together. I have all the pieces, I think I am going to sell it as is. *


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I have an old abrafilesaw and still have a few blades these are perfect to cut out windows and doors in aluminum bodied cars. I have also succesfully used high speed millers in the Dremmel with the router attachments but this is a messy process that makes fine aluminum powder and throws it all over the work place (wear gogles!). Also because the tool can slip, you tend to stay away from your marked out line, meaning more filing afterwards to get to the right contour. Abrafile are top for me, but I need to find a supply for these, as I bought them a long time ago.


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## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Aluminum cuts pretty easy on a bandsaw with a high tooth count. I believe it could be easily done on a table saw. Not only a fine tooth (high tooth count) but I would get a thin kerf blade.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

http://durafix.com/blades/copingsaw/


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## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Greg I have used those blades and they are wonderful.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It would be nice to find the diamond coated blades, but from what I read, on wood, plastic, and soft metals these work pretty well.

Regards, Greg


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