# removing lettering from an Accucraft loco



## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Greetings,

A friend is thinking of turning his new S-12 into a GN switcher. Has anyone removed lettering from a new loco, and if so, what would you suggest?

Looking forward to your assistance as always, thank you


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I removed the lettering from the tender of my 4-4-0 with a razor blade. I've been told that alcohol works, but I couldn't get it to work. I think they used a varathane clear finish on my loco.


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Try some Duck tape,it will take off the lettring


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Denatured alcohol from the hardware store worked on my USRA 0-6-0 lettering. You can also try toulene. Check it's effect on paint in a hidden spot first. I've used both with success. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob suggested Duck Tape.... Masking tape works as well. 

There may be some shiny spots left from under the lettering that would need to be dealt with.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys


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## hawkeye2 (Jan 6, 2008)

Inspired by this post I just tried to remove "Ida" from the cab of my Accucraft Ida and I can save you some time as the following don't work:

1. Duct tape (should'a gone to town for some Duck tape)
2. Plastic packaging tape
3. 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
4. Testor's liquid plastic cement
5. Berkebile 2+2 gum cutter carb cleaner
6. Acetone

The good news is that none of these will harm the existing finish and from cleaning the loco after runs I can add that WD-40. Formula 409, and Dove dish detergent won't do the job either.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By hawkeye2 on 03 Mar 2010 04:14 PM 
Inspired by this post I just tried to remove "Ida" from the cab of my Accucraft Ida and I can save you some time as the following don't work:

1. Duct tape (should'a gone to town for some Duck tape)
2. Plastic packaging tape
3. 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
4. Testor's liquid plastic cement
5. Berkebile 2+2 gum cutter carb cleaner
6. Acetone

The good news is that none of these will harm the existing finish and from cleaning the loco after runs I can add that WD-40. Formula 409, and Dove dish detergent won't do the job either.


Maybe I should start out by yelling at the tender and demand the lettering leave?


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

While all these tricks may be safe for those Accucrafts with gloss finish, alcohol and probably other solvents will damage satin finish on locomotives such as K-28. Best, Zubi


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## hawkeye2 (Jan 6, 2008)

Maybe I should start out by yelling at the tender and demand the lettering leave?

You could try, might help to eat an onion first. Ida is pretty hard headed, strong language didn't help with me.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Gallic and Anchovie pizza?


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

Posted By CapeCodSteam on 03 Mar 2010 10:44 PM 
Gallic and Anchovie pizza? That would be an overkill. Better use something milder, like an acetylene torch... Zubi


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Seriously, masking tape? I'm amazed it would be that easy. On which loco(s) did that method work?


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## David Buckingham (Jan 2, 2008)

Tape work on my C & S No 60 but not on some others 

Dave


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## hawkeye2 (Jan 6, 2008)

Garlic & anchovie pizza should only be used in a well vented area and with adult supervision. 

Though I don't like glossy finishes I must give Accucraft credit for applying a bullet proof paint job to their steamers, it really holds up. It's too bad they couldn't have done the same to a flat black tending to gray to look like a loco that has been in service for a while. The added bonus of an off black finish is that it photographs much better.

There is a current discussion of this same subject going on here:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx


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## highpressure (Jan 2, 2008)

*This has worked for me on a AMS 1:29 switcher, a C-16, a 3 cyl Shay and a C-21.* Lay it on its side. Wipe off the oil if any is present. Apply a coating of FAST ORANGE. ( FAST ORANGE is a hand cleaner available at DIY Auto stores.) After half hour wipe it off and do a second application. Let it sit for half hour then take a wooded stylus & push the letters off while the FAST ORANGE is still on the object. When the letters are all loose wipe it dry with a soft cloth. Procede to reletter with your favorite method.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I can only speak from the experience of changing the running board number on my Royal Hudson. 
I would imagine that the 'paint' was baked on, and then the lining and numbers added after by screening or a similar method. 
Since I only needed to remove the number, and not the lining, I used a 'pointed' 'Q tip' type object, dipped it in lacquer thinner and gently rubbed the number. 
I then wiped the softened paint off with a paper towel. 
This was repeated several times until all traces of the number were removed. 
It had no effect on on the 'background' paint, although perhaps if the solvent was left in place if might! 
I wasn't about to find out. 
The problem is that there maybe different paints etc. used by Accucraft on different models, so it will be a situation of 'keep trying the different suggestions out until you find the one that works for you, on your loco'. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 04 Mar 2010 09:50 AM 

I would imagine that the 'paint' was baked on, and then the lining and numbers added after by screening or a similar method. 



All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 



Decals. A bright light at the right angle reveals the edge of the decal.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Polyurethane is impervious to acetone, maskikng or duct tape and from my experience alcohol. I didn't think of toluene which will remove just about everything. I used the razor blade to get up under the edges of the outside of the lettering. I don't know about other AC engines but the narrow gauge 4-4-0 decals are applied very poorly. They don't trim around the letters they just put the clear boarder on. 
If you take the razor and work along the edges of that boarder and then apply alcohol it will come right up. However, be careful, I accidental scraped my paint job with the razor and ended up repainting everything.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Chris Scott on 04 Mar 2010 10:32 AM 


Posted By David Leech on 04 Mar 2010 09:50 AM 

I would imagine that the 'paint' was baked on, and then the lining and numbers added after by screening or a similar method. 



All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 



Decals. A bright light at the right angle reveals the edge of the decal.

Chris,
Are you looking at a Royal Hudson?
If so, yours is different to mine.
Mine are definitely NOT a waterslide decal or anything else with a backing or an 'edge'.
Maybe some kind of a rub on decal, but I doubt it.
It definitely appears to be a thick paint, or ink, that is used. 
Tell me more about yours please. 
Regards
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

On my Accucraft Legend 4-4-0 I was able to remove most of the lettering and lining using Scotch tape first and then the rest with denatured alcohol applied with a Q-tip and a little elbow grease, but what about that clear backing left behind? Do I just keep using the alcohol and elbow grease or will I start to remove paint as well? I could just leave it and after weathering it will not be as noticeable, but I'd like to get it to the original gloss black painted surface. Suggestions?


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

On Accucraft's early engines the lettering etc. will come off with scotch tape. I was told to do this by Accucraft itself.

I was also told the final coat on the earlier engines was two parts gloss and one part flat. For whatever it is worth.


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## Paul B (May 21, 2009)

I used Goof=off and a q tip and rubbed gently on my colorful Forney and the lettering came off easly. Haven't tried on my 4-4-0 Col Boone yet but thinking about it


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