# Possible 3d printer project?



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

So I am exploring options for having 1:20.3 scale 48" drivers made. Nothing out their that I am aware of scales out close to 48". I have thought of casting them in resin, having them machined, or using a combination of resin casting and metal. 

What about 3D printing them? I do not understand the process in the slightest. Can you make stuff that small and can you make it out of a durable enough material? Most importantly can it be done cost effectively? For my application I would need 2 flangeless drivers and 4 with flanges. I wont name names but I know of at least one other member here that would take the bait most likely. I could do a paper 2d drawing of what I want. Someone else would have to do what needs to be done to make the printer do its thing. Can these be made for say $50 bucks or less a set? Am I off my rocker?

Devon


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Static model?
Commercially you'd be lucky to get the 3D drawings done for $50....
Have you looked at English live steamers? There may be more choices than you are aware of.

You might want to go smaller to allow for large flanges if you have close tolerances.
Hard to say about your rocker without knowing what the dream is.....

Until you trust us with more info about your x-6-x our help will be limited. I doubt if the center needs to be blind.

John


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

3D printers are becoming useful for many modeling projects..but I dont think it would be a good choice for locomotive drivers..unless, as John said, its going to be a static non-operating model.

For an operating model, you want metal treads..
there is little sense in making the "body" of the driver out of 3D printed plastic, then also needing to create steel treads..its easier to just make the whole driver out of metal in the first place. 

("easier" of course being relative..it isnt easy for the average modeler to make his own drivers, period..one of the most difficult parts of scratch building or kitbashing a locomotive..)

but overall, 3D printing seems like a poor choice for drivers..but its good for cabs, domes, anything that would be plastic on the model anyway..

Scot


----------



## RGSNH (Jan 13, 2008)

Devon,

If this is for a working model, you will want stainless or steel tires. the 3d modeling will be cheap, producing the actual parts will depend on the level of accuracy you want. the desktop printers can make them the cheapest, but not always the best resolution. 

Al P_.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

I'll share what ever needs to be shared. Like I said I am throwing ideas around. This is a 2-6-0 Baldwin 3' gauge. Prototype has 48" drivers. Now I am a realist, and I don't want to reinvent the wheel (pun intended). If there is something out there that comes close I am all ears. This would be a working electric garden railroad loco. It's one of the reasons I don't want to go cast resin as I doubt they would hold up. It will not use track power so am not concerned about conductivity. I don't need tight tolerances a workable wheel that is a reasonable approximation works for me. 

If it isn't do able then it isn't do able. I am spit balling. If there is an option out there then I am game. I just know that all the drivers I have sized up to date fall very short of 48" Bachmann 10 wheeler is the biggest I have played with and they are 42" at scale. And in the end if that's what it has to be then that is what it has to be.

Just would be nice if there was a reasonable solution.


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

Take a look at my drivers, I've just finished them for my mogul project.
The white one was printed as a test in regular PLA.
The one in the middle of the chassis is printed in PLA mixed with real bronze powder. When you polish this it will shine just as real bronze but it won't conduct electricity. I needed only two wheels and since it is the mid axle I guess they won't wear as much as the front and rear. I'm still working at this chassis so I still can't tell you much about the durability.
But if this proves to wear out quickly I have some other options that might last a lot longer but don't have this metal finish.

Oh btw. I think these would be around $0.50 a set..


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

There are some driver makers in England that might work out..scale is a problem though:

You want your model drivers to be 2.36" high. 
to represent 48" drivers in 1/20.3 scale.

Here are some drivers:
http://www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk/index.php/gauge_1_wheels-gauge_1_driving/0/0/2/?k=2119:7::

He lists his drivers in prototype heights for 1/32 scale.
Doing the math, your 2.36" driver for your model works out to a 6-foot 4-inch tall prototype driver in 1/32 scale..he has those! 
but..to get the right size, the prototype style is wrong.."too many spokes" is the main issue, because its a 1/32 scale model of a large standard gauge driver..

There is also: https://slatersplastikard.com/

I have ordered drivers from them before, from England..
again, you can find the correct physical size, but the style is usually off..

I would just email them..send them the photo of your locomotive, and say something like:

"Hello, I am looking for locomotive drivers of this approximate style (locomotive in the photo) 
The number of spokes doesnt have to be exact, but I would like it to be close..
It doesn't matter what the prototype locomotive of the drivers was, I just need the drivers to be 2.36 inches high, 
or as close as possible to that, with that approximate spoke style..also the gauge would be 45mm. 
Do you have anything that fits that description?"

Scot


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

I think I'm kind of lucky, the prototype drivers for the Quincy & Torch Lake Baldwin 3 foot gauge engine #1 are close enough to the size of the Bachmann 4-6-0 drivers that I'm not going to worry about a small size difference.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Hey, Scot thanks for the link to Walsall. Their Gauge one 6'3" driver would work. It has twenty spokes and mine has 12 I am thinking that mine might end up with 10 by cutting out every other spoke. I could easily swing that and the price isn't bad. I will take your advice on the email and see wha they come up with but I am thinking this is a great route to go.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Devon and I are actually working on the same project, we just didn't know it until yesterday. (He's modeling this particular mogul as it appeared on the CR&N, I'm modeling it after it was sold to the EBT.) 

Proper 48" stainless steel tires aren't the issue. Cumberland Engineering (David Queener) has these. David and I had talked about 3D printing the wheels (sans tires). We looked at Shapeways' brass casting, and it was horribly cost-prohibitive, to the tune of $100 per driver. I'm thinking for a sparkie, a plastic wheel with stainless tire will be just fine, so that's kind of where I'm leaning now.

I just remembered that my local library now has a 3D printer, so I think I'm going to look in that direction. If we print each driver flat, any terracing on the spokes will be difficult to see once the wheels are assembled on the axle. The question is whether the particular plastics available are durable enough for locomotive drivers. I'd think they would be, especially when fitted with steel tires. 

Later,

K


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

hmm..very interesting! Kevin, please keep us informed on your driver project! this could be the solution to the 7/8n2 drivers I have been thinking about for 10 years..

Scot


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Amber,
yeah the other three locos in my prototype railroad use 42" drivers and the Bachmann 4-6-0 work great. Its these dang big drivers.

Pete I like the inserts what would it take to upsize them. Those look small.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Kevin is on a roll. I will ride the wave.


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

2.36" diameter drivers or so shouldn't be to hard to source, 12 spokes maybe an issue. I may have something close, I'll look around. 

I have a 3D Systems UV curable resin printer. I printed some Big Boy wheels sans tires last week on my printer, they came out very nice IMO. Used someone else's .stl file it was scaled for a 1:15 or so B.B. Anyway it was a test for me and the new to me printer. I printed two 4" discs and an air compressor. I don't see any reason why you could not use the wheels I printed with metal tires. Delton, LGB and others used plastics wheels with metal tires. Pictures to follow.


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

All of the stuff below was printed in one effort. This was my first print. Parts are untouched, no clean-up work performed. All was printed flat as orientated in picture. The back side had small needle thick stilts supporting where needed, those have been removed..

I believe later when I open and use a NEW resin cartridge the results will be even better. I utilized a three year old "best used by date" of 9/12/12 cartridge for testing, I was told it wouldn't work or work well by many, there seems to be some truth to their assertion me thinks...

Resin is hard and sands well, can even be chrome plated I'm told.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Ok looks great. I can see now that it can be done. Kevin has the tires so all we need is the insert. Who volunteers to make these buggers for me ;-)


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Very promising! I'll do some more legwork to see if we can kick this into gear.

Later,

K


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Impressive printing work!


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

I have to say I am truly impressed yet at the same time a bit saddened by this 3d printing technology. I am awed at how you can produce a 3d computer image and hit print and have a very nice production piece. It will revolutionize one off design and make the possibilities endless for prototype modeling. Yet at the same time it steals away from the equally impressive skills of the old school kit basher. David Fletcher, Kevin, and others on this site have taken hunks of plastic and made amazing models. This in some ways equals the playing field. As I embark on my first large scale locomotive build (not this one but a 2-6-0 like Fetch's 2001 master class only a complete ground up build from a 4-6-0 Bachmann) I strive to be as good as these season builders. I am afraid 3d printing can rob the season builder of his talent. 

Ok sorry for the rant. Now can I please have my 3dprinted drivers.


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Another great resource for drivers over the pond is Mark Woods.

http://www.markwoodwheels.co.uk/


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I'm not up to snuff on the variety of resins and plastics in use for 3D..learning however!!

When I first read this I felt that a plastic wheel should work..
Given a good tire pressed over it...
I would add an insert for the hole where a connecting rod goes for extra support, strength and repeated removal as needed..
This would/should make a fairly good driver...
The only place needing consideration might be where the axle sits in the wheel...

I think if this is thought thru...some experimentation took place, that it could be a viable path to build on!!

Good to luck to you both!!

Dirk


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Devon,

3D printing will make modeling easier for many, but the skill it takes to combine bits and pieces into functioning realistic models will always require more than a 3D printer can offer IMO... On the other hand your definitely onto something, the revolution is upon us...

Michael


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Devon,

First you’re going to need a 3D cad or .stl file rendering of the wheels in play. So you'll need someone to help with that first, subsequently you can send the file to anyone to print. 

I work with ACAD Architecturally all the time. Presently I'm learning 3D cad in my nonexistent spare time. I'm drawing in 3D a Worthington type 'B' size #3 feed-water heater. It’s very challenging there are many complex shapes and parts making up the assembled unit. 

I’m for creating a library of shared 3D files for train enthusiasts. Once a drawing is created, matters not what scale, it can be re-scaled to whatever is desired. And of course if changes are needed it greatly reduces the effort to modify/update a file than begin from scratch. I don’t know what others do but I draw in 1:1 scale and render in whatever scale suits me. If exact numbers are required I re-work dimensionally in the scaled rendition.

Michael


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Michael,
You are of course correct in that the artistic representation of modeling can never be accomplished by a machine. There will always be modelers. After all take a look at some of the Accucraft models. They are absolutely awesome but can they hold a candle to a prototypical model of a specific line at a specific time all weathered and worn. No. Modelers make them come to life. This will never be replaced. 

Honestly I will take my crooked line of rivets on my fire box hand drilled and pressed in sewing pins over a molded piece of production line plastic. The technology will make things like prototype drivers a reality instead of a dream.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks for all the driver links. The last one you sent I really like. If this 3d thing doesn't pan out I know I can make one of those English jobers work. I have no intention of learning to do 3d drawing. I will rely on others to work it out for me then pay them well for their effort. I simply do not have the time. I work fulltime, I am going to school full time earning a Masters, I am writing a book, I have two kids and do much volunteer work. And in my spare time I model. 

I like your shared information idea. I tend to think the same way you do. If I have something you need I will give it to you. That's how I work. I want to get into resin casting and when and if I do I will make the molds and the spit out parts as people need at cost just so they can complete their dream. I just work that way. In my book writing I find I do as much research for a friend of mine as I do for myself and freely give to him what I find and we are working on competing projects. I just cant help myself.


----------



## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

The East Broad Top Mikados have 48" drivers, and were produced in 1:20.3 by both Accucraft and Rich Yoder Models. Not sure if either of them has spares available. Right number of spokes but wrong counterweight style though. 

I saved a link on my computer at home (posting this from my phone, I'll have to dig it up later) to a company in the northwest somewhere that produces custom wheels to your specs, I seem to recall they specialize in O scale but can do other scales too.

When sourcing wheels from some of the British makers, keep in mind that British gauge one is traditionally 10mm scale, which falls somewhere between 1:32 and 1:29 in size. That actually makes the math pretty easy since 1:20.3 is 15mm scale, so the scale conversion factor is exactly 1.5. There's also a handy scale conversion calculator on the New Hampshire Garden Railway Society's website, I built it with exactly these kind of projects in mind. It can convert measurements between all the popular large scale scales from 1:32 to 7/8", plus 1:1 units in feet/inches and metric. http://www.nhgrs.com/scale-calculator


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

d_sinsley said:


> I have to say I am truly impressed yet at the same time a bit saddened by this 3d printing technology. I am awed at how you can produce a 3d computer image and hit print and have a very nice production piece. It will revolutionize one off design and make the possibilities endless for prototype modeling. Yet at the same time it steals away from the equally impressive skills of the old school kit basher. David Fletcher, Kevin, and others on this site have taken hunks of plastic and made amazing models. This in some ways equals the playing field. As I embark on my first large scale locomotive build (not this one but a 2-6-0 like Fetch's 2001 master class only a complete ground up build from a 4-6-0 Bachmann) I strive to be as good as these season builders. I am afraid 3d printing can rob the season builder of his talent.
> 
> Ok sorry for the rant. Now can I please have my 3dprinted drivers.


I also disagree with this! 
3D printing is simply a new and different way to make parts, nothing more..
IMO it will not at all detract or diminish from true modeling skill..

My first model kit, when I was about 10 years old, probably ended up looking something like this:










I remember having several model airplanes that looked like that! 
meanwhile, someone else with more practice, experience, and skill developed over time, could take the *exact same parts" and end up with this:










And this is true for everyone!
and age isn't a factor..even the people we consider the "master model builders" today started out building models
that look like they were built by a 10-year old..no matter what age they start...skill only comes with practice and time..

It will always be this way..
yes, it is true that "better parts can make better models"..but, it's still modeling skill that makes the end result what it is..

Scot


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Yes Scot you are correct. There really isn't any difference its a part. It is what you do with it that counts.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Kinda funny to use a kit as an example of the scratch building Art that Devon evoked....

I had a similar contempt for Casters who worked in wax when I was fabricating in gold and silver, my skill, by virtue of medium required had to be more exacting, yet the results could be equal! 
Watching Billie fabricate is far more satisfying to me than a program to print, That's all.

John

Edit; Seems I read what I wanted to see, I went to raw elements for fabrication vs parts bashing... guess I'd better finish my coffee.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Devon,
If you want to know what a 48" stainless tire looks like, here's a load of Cumberland Models (Dave Queener's) on my flatcar. (There's a photo around of the EBT moving tires between the std gauge and their machine shops.)


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Pete those are nice could you have those delivered please

Actually Kevin is contacting Dave and is waiting on a reply. With those tires and Pete_m willingness to draw them up and print the inserts I think we are in business. What Peter_m needs is the dimensions of those 48" tires so he can draw the inserts.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

From the modeling peanut gallery...

Fun thread to read, glad you're looking into it Devon. 

It would only take an hour or so for an experienced cad modeler to develop the driver (one driver, printed multiple times). But, in increasing order of clock time, the modeler would need to have exact drawings to model from, or a physical go-by to take caliper measurements from, or photos plus dimensions and verbal instructions ('make it just like this, except..."). Also, the ID of the metal tire would be needed, along with whatever other constraints (preferred axle diameter, spoke count...). 

Here's how the process often goes, from my experience. The output of that (an STL file usually) gets uploaded to Shapeways (or wherever), and then you'd do a test print of one. Say, $12 plus $5 shipping. A couple weeks later, you'd receive it, test fit it with your tire, and see what changes you might like. For example, provision for brass bushings as Dirk suggested. Or a different material. If the changes are extensive and if the part is expensive, another test print might be in order. But when that STL export is really finished, then you order the multiple "prints" of the part.

If you can get control of the design process yourself, you clearly save money -- not only for this project, but all the next ones you'll come across. That would mean getting SketchUp or other 3D modeling product, and going through the learning hoops. But once you're comfortable with the software, you'll be so glad you've taken the time. And, having one's one printer would be nice...!

Cliff


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> those are nice could you have those delivered please


 They are being delivered - to Orbisonia! And you need 6, not 4. (The original photo shows 6 and is captioned "0-6-0 tires going to Orbisonia for re-profiling". I couldn't afford 6 - that's a Hint.) 



> The Aristocraft Pacific drivers scale out to 50", which isn't too far off.


 The issue, as Devon mentioned in passing, is that NG wheels and SG wheels are different. Standard gauge locos (like the Pacific) have lots of spokes, while narrow gauge ones have few. Devon mentioned 12 for his loco, and suggeste cutting out every other spoke on a 20-spoke wheel (!)

[ Your loco is a spectacular model, Bruce! Despite the wheels. ]

As someone pointed out, there are at least 2 EBT Mikados around, and even if they won't sell you spares and you don't want to pay $3000 for a set of 8 wheels, perhaps you can 3D scan the existing ones and get a start on a 3D drawing of them ? I recall someone saying they had a drawing of the wheels - I certainly have a 2D scan somewhere.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

This is becoming promising. We have a person willing to draw them up and print them, Kevin on here may also have access to drawings already done. I have had another offer not on this forum (but because of a suggestion on this forum) to draw them up for me. Peter_M on this site is working it up and will do them very reasonably. At least the inserts. Now I just need the specs on the tires which Kevin is also working on.

If that doesn't work I have written one of the English makers and they do a 12 spoke wheel that he can machine to 58.5mm which is 1.5 mm shy of where I need to be which I can more than live with. But those wont be cheap by any means. 

I think I am close.


----------



## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Found that link I mentioned in my earlier post. The company is Nortwest Foundry & Supply, and here is the link to their wheels page: http://nwrfs.com/Wheels.htm


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

That's a good resource and I emailed them. Thanks


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

Devon,

I quickly made a model of the wheel and put some dimensions in it.
Is this about what you are looking for?
The most important dimensions that I need are the outer diameter, or inner dia from the tyre. The height of the tire and how the wheel is attached to the axle.
For example I used an old LGB style connection where the wheel is screwed to the axle.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Probably should move the rod pin hole closer to the hub, 32" is a long stroke.... I'd check cylinder for stroke, thus halved for pin placement.
John


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

Indeed John, forgot to mention that one.
Also note all dimensions are in mm.. 
Would it be enough if I make the rod pin hole 2mm, that way you can drill it to the desired size and tap the thread in the plastic. Normally i just carefully screw a small screw in so that it cuts the thread itself


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Peter,

Looks pretty good. How long did you spend creating the drawing?

I'd make the holes smaller than required, this would allow the modeler to index each pin hole to a constant dimension or offset from center. A jig or fixture would prevent the hole from wandering when cleaning or drilling to size. Or if you have a lathe a fixture is not required. On the other hand one could simply elongate the rod end to allow for pin offsets, rod length and quartering variables like LGB did.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

peter_m said:


> Indeed John, forgot to mention that one.
> Also note all dimensions are in mm..
> Would it be enough if I make the rod pin hole 2mm, that way you can drill it to the desired size and tap the thread in the plastic. Normally i just carefully screw a small screw in so that it cuts the thread itself


Ha ha I assumed inches from the OP's post, mm are 'foreign' to me. 

Ooooops

John


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

Not very long, about 30 minutes because I allready have a sollid base from the mogul that I am building. I can modify the 3d model to change the number of spokes, diameter and so on.
How are the wheels usualy attached to the axles? Are they pressed or something?


----------



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

LGB drivers are pressed onto splined axles, no retaining washer/screw on axle shaft end(s). 

Peter and Devon if you could use LGB Mogul axles, I have several used sets I'd part with.

I'm going to suggest that simply pressing plastic wheels onto axle shafts will require some precision. The hole in the driver will need to be checked; accurately reaming the hole to size at 90 degrees from the axle centerline is most desirable but may not be necessary. A drill press or vise may suffice for the reaming/pressing operation. Once assembled I'd spin in a lathe, drill press or similar to observe the results. Hopefully the driver(s) pressed onto the axles at 90 right angles allowing them to spin true...You may have/want to true the driver outside diameter to fit the tire. 

Michael


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

The best fixture is straight shaft with a flat spot for a D look. The flat maintains quartering. Straight profile allows gauging adjustments on axle.
I see Michael has posted.... be careful pressing plastic on steel. Plastic is too unstable, washers and a screw on the D end will hold fine.
John


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

You guys are moving faster than I can keep. Ok first, Peter that is an awesome start. The other person in this project is Kevin. He and I are the ones making these. He has the source for the tire I am waiting on him for that. 

Now axels and therefore attachment options is wide open. In fact that would be my next question is what is a good axel and motor for this project. I am actually new to large sale scratch building. I am working on a smaller mogul now using the Bachmann 4-6-0 drivers and motor because they scale nearly perfect to 42" which is the size of the prototype and lets face it they are cheap for a first project. 

The build for the loco we are talking about now is at this point an open book at least on my end. I don't know about Kevin. I honestly new it was going to come down to the driver and I would work up from there.

LGB axels have been offered. If that is a good axel driver application then I will go that route. Motor? I can and will fabricate everything else around that.

So Peter I guess at this point I need to get you a few things. The I.D. of the tire, the height of the tire, and axel attachment arrangement. . . I also want to address the offset for the crank pin. What did you come up from the prototype picture? I would like to been in that ballpark. I will likely custom make my cylinders and crosshead (the ones I am making now are turning out very much to my liking) So the throw on the crank is open but can't be crazy should be close to prototype.
Devon

Edit: after reading back through this I would agree I am not thrilled about pressing on the axels with plastic. I would prefer the d type end. Now that's another thing I don't have the ability to machine axels. I would prefer to use something in production. Suggestions? With the axel then will require a motor block. Is there and option where I can pick up a motor and axels on ebay similar to the Bachmann... The odd thing in this is the placement of the second and third drivers they almost touch. My thoughts were always to use the Bachmann and power the rear drivers with the motor actually facing backward. But I am open to suggestion.


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

I would probably go with the Bachmann motor drive. I've seen a couple of them on ebay and I believe they have the D axle. The fact that they're available right now doesn't hurt either.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

I like the Bachmann drive idea. They are cheap and they are easy to move the drivers at will. 

Can any verify the way the drivers attach. I don't want to mess mine up looking. If they are the right type then I am good with that.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Devon,
These are photos of the back of the ten-wheeler wheels. They have a shoulder in the casting and a nylon insert for insulation which also has the square shoulders. The front has a plastic insert with the counterweight hiding a screw holding the wheel to the shouldered axle..




















I've no idea how the Shay or Mallet drivers attach.


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Devon & Kevin,

For another data point, here's a USAT 1:20.3 driver (no tire) available at Shapeways. 

[edit: just saw your model Peter, looks nice]

One point about the axle hole. The 3D printing process isn't exact. I did a number of test pieces to compare modeled diameter vs. what came out, here's the thread. 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/15-model-making/32609-sls-hole-shaft-gauge.html

Because of the need for accuracy on shaft fits, I make holes undersized. The modeler of the above-mentioned part did the same. You drill the holes out after. But, with a D-hole, you can't do that. Just something else to consider.

Regards,
Cliff


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

A file ... the metal kind?
With a cap screw/ hex head bolt the D holds the quarter and shims set the gauge.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

At this point I would say I would do this then with the Bachmann axels and motor. So they need to be made slightly smaller than that plastic insert. 

Peter do you have access to a 10 wheeler to get the specs. Or could someone get them to him. 

If not I would be willing to purchase one and send you the wheel and axel for you to measure and put into the drawing.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Peter do you have access to a 10 wheeler to get the specs


There are a couple of Peter's watching your efforts. . . I assume you mean peter_m, not Peter-T ?

However, I do have 2 or 3 ten-wheelers in pieces and a micrometer. What do you want to know? Or shall I just send a wheel or two?
Note - mine are all pre-anniversary engines [the ones with better lubrication holes and optional metal valve gear.] I don't know which gen your frame comes from. The early versions are described on George Schreyers website:
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

yes sorry that was for peter_m

This hasn't happened yet. That's part of the problem the cart is somewhat before the horse. What turned out to be an inquiry on the possibility of doing it turned into becoming a reality of doing it. So I don't have the motor or axels as yet. So actually I am open at this point to whatever happens. Being that Kevin is also wanting to do this project I would like his input and we can use the same building blocks. So no need to send anything to anyone yet but thanks for the offer.

When we get to where we know what we are going to be working with then we can continue down this road.


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

devon, I don't have a ten wheeler chassis, only some small lgb locs here. You could send me one but I have no idea about the costs because I live in holland. However I'm looking at the ten weeler chassis as well as they are realy cheap right now. Only half of what I would pay here for a 4 wheel lgb drive block! I will take a look if it is worth ordering one from bachmann for a future project..

About my printed wheels; the old lgb axles use a "double D" slot, I mean two flat sides opposite to each other. I printed the slot and hole for the axles and after this I drilled it to 6mm in a drill press. The flat sides were filed a bit until they fit nicely. This way the wheels allready had less wobble than the original lgb wheels. If you want it perfect I think you need a lathe.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

peter_m said:


> devon, I don't have a ten wheeler chassis, only some small lgb locs here. You could send me one but I have no idea about the costs because I live in holland. However I'm looking at the ten weeler chassis as well as they are realy cheap right now. Only half of what I would pay here for a 4 wheel lgb drive block! I will take a look if it is worth ordering one from bachmann for a future project..
> 
> About my printed wheels; the old lgb axles use a "double D" slot, I mean two flat sides opposite to each other. I printed the slot and hole for the axles and after this I drilled it to 6mm in a drill press. The flat sides were filed a bit until they fit nicely. This way the wheels allready had less wobble than the original lgb wheels. If you want it perfect I think you need a lathe.


 If this were entirely my decision I would say at this point I would buy a new anniversary chassis from Bachmann. They are reasonably cheap ($50.00 right now) and readily available. If we do go this route I would be more than happy to send you an axel and wheel to measure off of. It can't cost that much. Then you can design it close and send the wheel and axel back with the wheels. I could then fine tune them to fit just right.

I have to say I appreciate your offer and work.


----------



## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

No problem at all, it would be cool if we could find a way to quickly produce nearly all kinds of wheels. I think for now we should wait untill we have some more dimensions on the tyres, no need to hurry I think?


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

peter_m said:


> No problem at all, it would be cool if we could find a way to quickly produce nearly all kinds of wheels. I think for now we should wait untill we have some more dimensions on the tyres, no need to hurry I think?


I assume you are getting them from Dave Queener, so I don't need to go and measure the ones on my flatcar?


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

peter_m said:


> No problem at all, it would be cool if we could find a way to quickly produce nearly all kinds of wheels. I think for now we should wait untill we have some more dimensions on the tyres, no need to hurry I think?


No definitely not in a hurry. To be honest this all started as an inquiry about if it could be done. Your generosity thrust that from hypothetical to reality in a hurry. But I am not one to pass on opportunity so I am going with it. Kevin sent me a PM and he is still waiting for a response on the tire dimensions. Then he and I can talk donor drive unit and axels. I believe he has a donor 4-6-0 already in waiting but will need to verify that and make sure I have the same axels. . . I don't know if there is a difference between the anniversary axels and the old axels. 

So yeah we are on hold.


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Pete Thornton said:


> I assume you are getting them from Dave Queener, so I don't need to go and measure the ones on my flatcar?


That is where Kevin is sourcing them from. We are waiting to hear from him. But if yours are from him also and you were obliged. . . that's provided he hasn't changed them between yours and the ones we would get. We need I.D. and thickness.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> We need I.D. and thickness


 I had them out this morning for a run, so they are handy. Front face to back of wheel (width/thickness) is 0.281". ID is 2.015" to 2.020".


----------



## d_sinsley (Mar 29, 2011)

Pete Thornton said:


> I had them out this morning for a run, so they are handy. Front face to back of wheel (width/thickness) is 0.281". ID is 2.015" to 2.020".


Thanks Pete T


----------

