# Climax boiler build?



## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Here's a pic of the start....hopefully...of my 1:20.3 size boiler. I'm using copper pipe fittings for the bulk of it and made the tapered section from heavy sheet. I'm attempting to use Kozo's book for the build. I'm wondering though how well the boiler design will scale down as far as operation is concerned? The front section you see is actually a copper 'cap' I've turned down for the front section of the boiler. another will be used for the smoke box. I have a roll of small capillary copper tube for the steam lines. Any thoughts, opinions or advice welcome! Bill
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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

HI Bill, 
It's very good to see you Climax again. I remember reading about the build of the engine some time back. Have you run it on air yet? The boiler looks like it's off to a good start. What do you plan to use for fuel? I'm guessing you will be building a second pressure vessel for gas. Your conical section looks like it might be made of brass? I would recommend against that, since it doesn't deal with the stresses of pressure nearly as well as copper.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Seems that using fittings are more work as all the joints will need a backer and riveted in and soldered. Like joining a rolled sheet. You can also do a lap joint but not with fittings. Can you not get pipe in a size that close enough? The taper part is nice but should be copper also. Look for Ed Humes Climax build. He did a 20.3 version from the same book.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Not sure why it looks like brass, maybe the finish and the fittings are still lacquered, I guess. There was much hammering, filing and sanding to get the tapered part correct. Still not finished with that...final 'polishing'. The 'backers are indeed strip brass. I'm using 0-80 nuts and bolts not finished with those. Nothing is silver soldered yet. I have to make the backhead plates etc. Copper pipes yet to be ordered. Not sure what benefit there would be in using 'pipe', still would have three sections to it, unless one built a straight boiler. Bill


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

This is an interesting Climax as you show it with Shay trucks underneath it.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Currently there are 4 joints not including the ends. If it was tube you would only have 2. Less soldering and less mass on the boiler. Less mass means more efficient heating. What size pipe did it convert to? You can always roll copper sheet if its not a standard size.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

If you need copper "sheet" a ready source is the copper PIPE. I take a length of pipe (suitable for the size i need) slit it along one side and unroll it. heating it to anneal it is usually necessary. I use the same pipe-made-into-sheet stock for the end caps and would use it for firboxes of spirit or coal fired boilers. as it comes from the same stock it is the same thickness as the boiler shell. 

I believe that true full scale boilers are made with several rings of steel that fit (telescope) within eachother and are riveted at the joints. we can make ours the same way but only add a few rivits (copper house wire works) to hold things in place then silver solder. TO get the smooth wagon top look use a boiler jacket which can be assembled from brass sheet. Silver solder is strong but I would not trust just butting one ring to the next. 

Brass parts may corrode especilally inside the boiler. use copper where you can. I have used brass for boiler fittings (safety valve and the like) but properly Bronze should be used as it is stronger and more corrosion resistant. 

Gas fired boilers are easiest to make...straight ones the easiest yet. Only one flue is needed. spirit and coal boilers will have more smaller flues. Note that the tubes will NOT scale from full size or even larger scales. a single gas flue should be about 3/4" pipe, 4-6 spirit/coal flues perhaps 3/8" tubing. 

I would use copper pipe and tubing available from you local plumbing supply. Hopefully they will sell you cut lengths suitable for your project. for some reason our local (Maine) places want to sell full length pipe and tubing which is a lot of $ and too much for the project in most cases. If you know a plumber you might get some peices from him


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Guess my pic didn't explain too clearly. I have just about enough copper plate left to complete the needed parts. The cap in the front has been turned down enough to become the front plate and parted off leaving a flange. The reinforcing inside strips will be secured with 0-80 bolts on both sides/sections prior to silver soldering, rather than with rivets. My preference is to make it coal fired. Like a lot stuff I build, I'll run it a few times and put it away. AS for the Shay trucks, I thought I'd run flex tube fro the driveline to the Shay gear drive and make a Climaxshay.....that puppy should really pull! Guess if that doesn't work, I'll have to build another set of trucks........Bill
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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

A few minutes of cutting and hammering produced the first of the plates. I still have to decide what size tube to use in this, the boiler being relatively small. The other pic is an example of a 'shovel ready job'.....not holding my breath. I'm going to try to work on the boiler to completion. I thought at least I could fire it up and have some to look at. 
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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Bill I think especially if you want to build her to run coal that you should create the back section (firebox/boiler) out of one piece. Did you split the back of the pipe and bend those sides down or is that fire box a separate piece? The back head looks good. Be careful drilling that hole for the fire box door. Thin copper likes to get grabby with tools.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Yes, I split and bent the sides. I've been looking at some examples on the net, including Humes Climax pics. I see where some bore the holes. I may give that a try for the large ones. I'll experiment with some scrap. I assume you mean to build the inner fire box upside down 'U' from one piece? I'm guessing with smallish front section, 1/4" or smaller ID is what I'll have to use for tubes to get enough in there. Bill


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Sounds like you are on the right track. That is how I would approach the fire box. As for the flues Coal burners need plenty of space for draft. I would go with 3 3/8" flues. Mind you those numbers are based only on my gut feel from past observations. There are formulas out there to determine proper flue area, but I don't have any of those at my disposal. If you put them into a triangular pattern they should fit. I think ruby conversions I've seen have a similar set up. Maybe some more experienced voices will step up to help you with flue size and placement.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I am not all that experianced with coal firing but I like those numbers. I think less than 3/8" you have to work to get the hot gasses through. I have built spirit fired marine boilers and found 1/4" too small (though they rely on natural draft to get going) but 3/8" works fine.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm beginning to question my thoughts on coal given the pratical aspect of the small size of the boiler! In the pic you can see how small this thing becomes. The distance between the frame is 47mm/1.8". By the time I make the inner fire box, I'll be lucky to have an inch + inside. Just for reference, I held up a steam pump I built in 1 1/2" scale...I thought the pump was a cool start for this type of construction project! Man, been checking the prices on copper pipe......WOW! I welcome your thoughts on the coal vs. gas issue! Bill
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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Gas is easier both to use and to build. A single 3/4" pipe becomes the firebox and flue. The boiler is just a pressure vessel it can be basically a cylinder with two end caps. Building down the firebox is unneccessary and can be done seperately just for show. Small boilers are no problem with gas. small boilers for spirit fire are often just pot boilers. that being said, folks have made coal fired Rubys which have been quite successful I guess.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Go alcohol. You operate the engine that same way as coal, i.e. using the blower. Except you don't have to chase the engine around with a little shovel. Alcohol is clean burning, widely available. It burns really really hot. Never plugs up a pipe. You never need a gas adapter thingy. You engine is way to nice to take the easy out from gas.


Alcohol dude, go alcohol.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Is that how you fired your loco from awhile back, Bob? Pic of my morning's work, after doing some house painting, I reworked the backhead a bit for a better fit in the frame. Then, I've bolted the the pieces together with 0-80 bolts/nuts so I could get ready for the next step....whatever that may be. I run my vertical boilder with alky, or 'Heet'..no fuss, no mess. I'm goin' to go mulch leaves awhile and mull you fella's suggestions over. Gotta say though, I'm old enough to remember 'real steam'....and my Mother hated it! After washing clothes, and the wind just right, sooty sheets, etc.!
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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I've done 2 with bird feeder alcohol systems. The fuel tank is above the level of the burners. The fuel tank would fit perfectly in the bunker of the Climax. Bird feeders maintain a constant level of alcohol to the burner pots. Here's a diagram:










The way they work is the fuel in the tank drops thru the needle valve to the sump below. When the sump fills and covers the bottom of the air pipe, a vacuum forms in the tank which stops the flow of fuel. As the pots burn, the fuel level in the sump drops and uncovers the bottom of the air pipe. The vacuum breaks and fuel drops down into the sump and the cycle continues. The filler plug has to be air tight. If you open the filler, the needle valve has to be closed. Otherwise the main tank drains and you have a problem.


Bird feeders have been around for a long time. I think they are far superior to gas.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I must admit, this may be the best solution. Oweing in part to the design, the tender would be the ideal location. I use one of those 'beer can' camper's burners in my "donkey' and it burns plenty hot! Are these burners available or do you make your own? Bill


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

What is the length of the actual boiler from front to back sheet? 3 flues are sufficient but 1/2" - 9/16" OD .032 wall. On a recent 2.5" dia boiler I built I used 6 3/8OD .032 wall tubes. Steams perfect for a 1/2" cylinder chassis.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

The OAL is 7 3/4". About 4 7/8" front to rear tubesheet. Rear ID, 2 1/8", front ID 1 5/8" Firebox area about 2 1/2" in length. The front portion ID doesn't leave a lot of room to get everything through.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Pic of the front tubesheet with a few markings to suggest an arragement for tubes. The 2 'eyes' would be blower and steam outlets. the piece is turned down and parted from a copper pipe cap. Slooooow going on the lathe. Either I don't have the right gind angle(S) on the tool or, the copper just grabs!
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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't think bird feeders are commercially available. They are not hard to make however.

Those beer can camper stoves look interesting. Have you seen this website??
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...aff/11/aft/122339/postid/236554/zenstoves.net

Zen Stoves


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

This is in fact made from aluminum cans. Bought it on ebay for maybe $5. My boiler is made from 3" copper pipe. It sits right over the stove. Just don't want to get near the stack! Alky sure burns the eyes! Works like a champ
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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

If you run your loco on a "test track" and/or you live in a rainy area, alcohol is great. I live in CA and after some nasty grass fires caused by toppled over locos on a scenic layout I switched to butane, which can be turned off easily. If you chose to go with a bird feeder alcohol design, make the inner diameter of the air pipe 1/4", otherwise the air bubbles won't rise reliably.
Regards


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Well 2- 1/2" OD flues give you just over 15sqin of surface area plus the back sheet and the firebox. 2 should give you plenty of heating area for such a small boiler. Plus it will give you a little more water capacity. You can run the blower line under the boiler if you need the extra space too. 

The copper caps are a bear to turn. Its not the tooling its the crap copper. I used them for my ceramic burners and have the same issues.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for the info, Guys! Certainly the fewer holes to drill, ream, and solder, the better! In the past I've used Mapp gas and torch but lately thought I must be getting sloppy in my silver soldering. Then, last night, I read MAPP gas today is not the same, the last plant in the US closing in 2008! So, new MAPP gas is a different formula. I found when I build that vertical boiler, the only way I could get enough heat was to put the pipe into a charcoal 'starter' grill and use the torch on the part to be soldered. Crude, but it worked. I just can't justify a big Sievert rig for a 1, or 2, off. Not sure of other options. Bill


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I use the MAPP and Propane tourch only for smallish jobs. For larger jobs, I use my Oxy-acetelene tourch setup. 

I got the set cheap from a freind a long time ago but had to invest in the tanks of oxygen and acetelene. I got the smallest tanks I could find and only on the second fillup in 20 years or so. Like you, I build stuff only now and then but am happy to have bought this way back when! 

By the way, if one MAPPS tourch is almost enough, get a second or use firebricks to hold the heat, I have sometimes made a little oven with firebrick, things heat up much better than out in the open!


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I'll have to look at some ideas and maybe find some fire brick. I wonder if one of those snow melting/roofing torches would work? I guess you'd need a regulator on the propane tanks, I have a couple of good sized BBQ tanks. Anyway decided I'd go ahead and start the steam dome bas and throttle. Seems like that's the heart of the project, and fairly intricate. My drawing beneath is my attempt to make sense of Kozo's plans. One thing about this stuff is the dam....ed ME taps and dies everyone uses! $40-50 for a die I can buy a standard for $6+. I cheat wherever possible and re-thread some of the stock fittings.......even use the 'strongarm' re-thread method......ocassionally.
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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have seen guys use this to heat up the boiler and use the torch to heat the joints. 

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=VqmgTtOWL4Hh0QGaurycBQ&ved=0CGgQ8gIwAA# 

For fire bricks you can get them at your local brick stone yard. I get mine for just about a buck each. I have also bought the soft white fire bricks but mailorder. They are about 6.00 each


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Henner is correct about alcohol. It has very real risk. I had one go off and hard crash to the ground. Fortunately it was on the last lap and almost out of fuel. Had an air leak one time and drained the fuel tank. Alcohol burns invisible. It is a good idea to have a garden hose or real fire extinguisher ready. Before litght-up drench the track and ground around the engine with water. That will help cut the alcohol if there is a spill.

To extinguish the engine after a run, use a CO2 bicycle tire inflator available at any bicycle shop. Get the small size that uses BB gun CO2 cylinders. A good "toot" down the smoke stack puts out the fire immediately. Don't let the fire just burn out. That's unprofessional. Don't try to blown it out either.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

If you have a GOOD hardware store in your area you can often find the odd size taps and dies 1/4"-40 is tough but it is a standard size. I found the 10mm tap that Accucraft uses for it's boiler fill fittings and safety valves. 

the only problem is that many hardware stores nowadays are just homecenters with the most basic and commonly purchased tools and hardware stocked...stuff like tupperware, lightbulbs and BBQ brushes! I am fortunate to have some pretty good ones locally here in Maine. When i lived in stamford, Connecticut the hardware stores were useless. Dont know how many times I walked right back out shaking my head!


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## steamupdad (Aug 19, 2008)

If this helps any.. ......When I was converting the boiler from my aster k4 to alcohol, I bought a MAPP gas torch with elec. ign. for around $40 at Lowes. I also got 53% (1200°+) silver solder from the welding supply store for about $30. The specialty taps and dies online for a few $$ a piece. The one torch was plenty sufficiant for the job. I just set my boiler out on the concrete using stepping stones to support it. Was not a hard task by any means. Just my 2¢..


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

A pic of the 'snifter' valve and the throttle needle. The valve is threaded 3/16 x 40 and the upper cap finished inside with a 'D' bit to seat the ball. Unfortunately, the smallest ball I have measures about 4.5 mm... and is a bit too large! The throttle is 3/32 SS turned to a 20 deg point. The snifter valve is supposed to force the ball upward against the cap under steam pressure, and allow air to be sucked in when the throttle is closed. The purpose is to keep the cylinders from forming a vacuum when coasting.The other 2 dots will be: one, for a safety valve, and 2 for a whistle.....I think! As far as the soldering is concerned, I've found the worst thing to fix is a boiler leak. Better, I think, to have plenty of heat to flow the silver solder adequately the first time. Still a good bit of fitting and drilling before I'm ready to solder the whole thing together. I think I'll buy a ready made safety valve, don't know exactly what, but I guess the standard 60 lb psi would be adequate....what do you guys think? Bill
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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Working on some of the small fittings and particularly getting the throttle to work properly. I have to make the link at the top of the throttle lever as well as the cap. I used an old blood pressure pump to test the throttle seal, and snifter valve. I used a 1/8" silicon nitride ball in the snifter valve. At this point, my main steam line is 1/8" copper....hope this is large enough! I'm looking at 1-1/2" tube and 2- 1/4" flues. I'm afraid two large 1/2" tubes would weaking the front tube plate given its small size. Advice welcome! Bill
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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

It looks like you are making good progress! 

If two 1/2" pipes are too big how about two 3/8" tubes? I would think that would be a fine amount of flue though you might even fit three in.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The 3/8 Od flue of a 1/4" id. I think that what he was using by one of the posts..


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm sure there's some engineering, math, and maybe some Black Magic, in getting the right sizes for heat and draft....but it escapes me. Too big and not enough water, too small and limited draft. Wondering what something like a Ruby uses? I'll look into the 3/8". I thought originally of several 1/4". The throttle took me the better part of the day. Thought I'd have the engineer give it a try....see if it met with his approval!
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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I would say err on the larger size tubes -- 1/2" You have plenty of water and steam accumulation space in there. As I recall, Kozo uses fewer larger flues in his recent engines.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Bob, go with 1/2" tubes.
Regards


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a 2.5" boiler I built for my loco. Its 6 3/8" flues. I would think the smaller climax boiler can use a single 5/8 flue with crosstubes or 3 3/8OD flues.

Knowing how small the 1/4" ones are I think the larger would do better.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for the help, guys, I appreciate it. Lot of work to screw it up! Here's a pic showing what 2- 1/2" tubes would look like. Appears that even a 1/4 to 3/8 tube would squeeze in the bottom. ALso, what size should a blower tube be? My 'gizmo' for testing the throttle valve seat and snifter valve. Good looking boiler Jason, have you tested it yet....what's it going in?
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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes its actually soldered up. All 3 of them...

Its for a 7/8" scale Idris following the drawings by Dave Watkins.

http://youtu.be/tqMr6Jxc7oo


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

A short update of progress. This is a pic of one of the firebox sheets which gives an indication of size....small! The 'main' flue tube shown is 1/2" copper and a 3/4" fire door. As you can see the firebox is just about 1 1/4", doesn't leave a whole lot of options. That leaves room for about 3/16th's stays. The boiler has to fit between the frame and sits on the grate's supports. I may get a couple of tubes.......5/32 to 1/4" in there, but not much else. Bill
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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
forget 1/4" (OD) or smaller tubes. I once built a nice boiler for coal firing with 4 or 5 1/4" tubes. It was much less efficient than a simple pot boiler my son built at the same time for his boat. Even today he still laughs at me...I donated the boiler to a friend as a load for his flat car!

Regards


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Actually, what I meant was to suggest a couple of smallish tubes in addition to the 1/2" tube. Not sure where the balance gains or loses between the the draft effiency and the speed/amount of hot water/steam. The 1/2" tube shouldn't be a problem, the photo makes it look larger in relation to the tube sheet. Bill


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, 
the flow resistance of the smaller tubes is much higher, so almost no hot gases will flow through them. LBSC used 5 ea. 3/8" tubes and one 5/8" tube in his coal fired Tich boiler (Boiler diameter 2 1/2", 7" long). The lower resistance of the 5/8" tube was increased by inserting a superheater, so basically all tubes behaved similar. This tiny 3 1/2" gauge loco could pull an adult! 
Regards


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Hey Bill, 
A few posts back you inquired about ruby boiler size. They measure 4.75" long ( Length does not include smoke box) and 1.75" in diameter. The single flue looks to be 5/8" diameter but this has the burner inserted in it which reduces it's volume but not heating surface in contact with. I'm not sure if you are steering clear of 3/8 diameter for flues since it's not readily available but it can be found. Here is a link for some: 

https://coppertubingsales.com/store...ucts_id=915&osCsid=oeigpjq7qtmfs6tde47bfo5kr2 

I just did a google search for "copper pipe" I think you project would benefit greatly from some specialty materials. It's coming along so nicely it deserves the right parts to make it great.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

If you want some 3/8" OD copper shoot me a message. I bought 20' when I needed it for my boilers as it came in a 20' roll Lowes carries the copper in a coil. Have almost every size you will ever need and its annealed.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

No Randy, I haven't ruled out the 3/8"...in fact, I did respond to Jason's offer for a piece or two. Ultimately, the final flue size depends on the firebox and its rear tube sheet. The pic shows the relative small size. It may be I can get a 1/2" and a 3/8" tube in there. I've roughed out the boiler support/ grate frame to see how things line up. Appears there adequate room for the drive shaft. The boiler just clears the reversing pivot to the front. That will establish the height of the smoke box support. I'm prone to get impatient and get ahead of myself.....consequently having to remake something!
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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Ash pan and frame..one pan started.
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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Looking good. It's a lot to fit together but it looks like you are giving it all it's proper consideration. Did you decide on coal firing?


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

I'm still leaning toward trying the coal. Guess I'm 'purist' enough to want to smell the coal. Fact is, I like to build stuff, I'll run it a couple of times and put it on the shelf. I like my sparkies, when I'm in the mood ..plug 'em in and watch them go. I tink, too, a project like this one has to approach as a hundred little projects. After awhile, they start to take shape. Kozo's books are the absolute perfect way to build, I cut corners. The pan/support is a piece of copper tube cut in half and silver soldered. Kozo used...probably ten + screws to hold it together. Now where, to find miniature coal..........? Bill


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

In regards to your question about coal, I just saw a source in another post. So here it is: 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/afv/topic/aff/11/aft/122682/Default.aspx 

Any more progress?


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for the tip, I looked there recently, but don't remember seeing coal. I did find some 3/8" copper at Lowe's, in the plumbing department. I've bought one of those huge propane torches advertised for roofing and snow melting, that should provide plenty of heat! Been working on valve timing and reverse lever, etc. Had to order some materials and small bolts/nuts. I need to build the grate to establish the final dimensions ( height) of the boiler. I found the photo of a restoration project which shows how the cab/water tank mount. Every so often my 'helper' decides to assist. But, he doesn't have a clue what he's doing!
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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Today's project was fitting 2 -3/8" draft tubes in the front sheet of the firebox and drilling/fitting the front tube sheet.  I've only silver soldered the firebox end at this stage. Since I'm trying to build as 'scale' as possible, I decided to go with a wood tender/tank cab floor, as in the photo above. The frame will have to built up in layers of 1/8" thickness boards. I'm trying to decide what kind of wood to use? A site on ebay has 1/8th in mahogany, walnut, canarywood, and a few others. I imagine the original was oak.......any ideas here? The net result is the firebox door opening will need to be high in the tiny firebox....as you can see the thing taped in the pic. I wondered if this 2 tube arrangement would work so, I lit a candle and held the firebox right over the flame for a few minutes...that puppy can get hot! I blew out the flame and watched the black smoke come out the tubes....too cool! And, to those watching, A Happy Thanksgiving!
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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Firebox opening in place. Firebox/tubes just sitting inside boiler for now. Better pic of what is now 1/4" wood and supports which will be 1/8" wood as what will support cab/water tank.
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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good. Ive recently used Alder on a project and it works very nice for our scale. A much nicer wood then Basswood for grain. Most of the other woods are too much grain. White Oak works out poretty nice but the grain has deep grooves like any other oak still. I have some Canary you can try its useless as when you cut it, it turns very yellow and takes a long time to go back to the nice wood color that I saw on the piece that I bought. It looked perfect for a flat car decking until I started to cut it up. Ehh


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Must admit, I had to look up 'Alder wood', that's a new one on me. Sitting here 'surfing' last night, I found a guy who had some marine grade teak in 1/8", so I ordered some. Don't know what it will look like, but sounded intrigueing. Have it on my boat for deck handrail and it looks nice when finished. It has struck me that they used as much wood on engines, seems counter-intuitive with the sparks, etc. I bought some bituminous coal sold in small bags. Thought I'd light a tablespoon or two to see how it worked...just setting the firebox over it. Just can't beat the smell, and smoke, of coal! Still trying to figure out the way, and what material, to make the grate out of.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The grate stainless all the way. You can use 3/32 or 1/8 strips with about the same gap using spacers. Using stainless rod to assemble ou mostly just need to peen the rod over to keep assembled.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Not sure trains ever used it but Apitong is widiley used for flooring trailers, trailer wall scuff protection and flat bed trucks with removable side gates or railing. Apitong is a very hard wood, something like twice as hard as Oak! 

Michael


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Another one I have never heard of. May very well have been one of the woods the original builders used. I guess I'll see how the teak looks...1/8" pretty thin. The deck should wind up 2 or 3 staggared layers. I think the 1/8" stainless is about right and probably the most practical. I'm pretty sure I have a roll of SS in my MIG cabinet. Be easier than silver brazing a bunch of rods I don't have a milling machine to do the Kozo style. Got some Easy-flo 45 today, first time to try this. I've about run out of the supply of large stuff I've had for years. My jaw dropped at the current price of silver solder! Bill


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bill: Boiler looks great. It will do the job just fine. Stainless steel has its own flux for silver soldering. It's black in color as opposed to the white stuff we always use. The white flux will work on stainless, but it can be tricky. The metal has to be super clean. Lots of soap and water, clean paper towels, don't touch it after clean up. Very slow gentle warm up. Stainless can over heat in a hurry. Practice on some scrap before going final. It's "do-able", but practice first.


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## Cap'nBill (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for the tip, Bob, can't remember ever brazing SS. Ordered some 3/32 rod, space is limited, hope it's heavy enough. Bored in the firebox door through the backhead. Stripped a few of the teak wood pieces to 1/4" to see how they looked. Had to fix a couple of leaks in the boiler shell. A multiple piece boiler is not without its share of problems! Crown sheet stay will be about 1/2"...that's next then a few stays before the boiler's ready to be 'buttoned up'.
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