# just took first stab at weathering



## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

had an inexpensive Bachmann hopper and thought id give it a go. I used mostly "doctor bens" weathering solutions. the light rust color is really darker and more subdued in person , but seems to pop with the flash pictures. now all I need is a load for this car


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cool. I've heard of Dr. Ben's stuff, but I haven't tried it. If you have a chance, take some photos outdoors in the daylight, would you? I'd love to see what his stuff looks like in natural light.

Later,

K


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

here are some sunlight pics


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The rusty one is very realistic. Are these solvents and paint that "runs"?

Greg - 279


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

I would call them more an in-between like a suspension of sorts. you have to keep stirring as you use. it can be thinned to a wash if desired. the grime along the bottom was "dark rust" and used full strength. they dry to a chalky consistency , and if you handle too strongly will leave residue on your finger. im debating whether to seal it with dullcote. a quick overbrushing of the whole model immediately achieves a nice effect. I haven't used the "grimy black" yet
I have to work on my "running paint fade" on the lettering


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

They are a alcohol based solvent. They run good for the desired effect. I use this same product on all my weathering. Easy to work with.


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

ddrum31 said:


> They are a alcohol based solvent. They run good for the desired effect. I use this same product on all my weathering. Easy to work with.


have you been sealing the job with dullcote after?


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Both the Testers and used the Dr Ben's sealer. Both ways work. Just don't use the dullcoat up close or it will disappear for some reason.. do a mist about a 10-12" away from it.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

ddrum31 said:


> Both the Testers and used the Dr Ben's sealer. Both ways work. Just don't use the dullcoat up close or it will disappear for some reason.. do a mist about a 10-12" away from it.


The testors will turn yellow, I think, if left out in the sun. Krylon has a matte clear UV protected spray in a rattle can.

I would suggest a wash with very dilute black acrylic (but test it first on the Dr Bens.) It will dull everything and also stop the weathering coming off on your fingers, I think.
(Of course, on the East Broad Top versions of those hoppers, we use a not-very-dilute black wash, as the original cars were covered in coal dust!)


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

I had picked up a cheap k-line Geep a while ago on ebay that had some attempted "custom paint" details that have to be corrected. im going to try my first loco weathering shortly. its pennsy green , so it should be a little more challenging. best thing is working on these large scale trains... your not going blind! I think im going to work on the hopper again with some chalks and see what happens


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

I'll have to find the Krylon stuff and give it a go.


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

here is my latest project. you can see in the first pic , somebody put some horrible gold paint on the handrails and tried to "weather" some of the truck parts so I removed and did over with flat black and painted the safety coloring as per some prototype pics. I did the whole loco with doc bens instant age , then worked it into an old warhorsewith the "weathered rust" and grimy black . I did apply a coat of the krylon matte whci did tone everything down a bit. I find I don't have too much success with chalks... I tried doing some exhaust staining on the top , but not happy. I will have to get some oily black and do some drybrushing for that


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

*did bachmann wooden gondola*

I had more success with the chalks after doing the initial with the dr bens washes. however, when I hit it with the testors dullcote after, the chalks all but disappeared. I guess chalks are to just leave as is and hope it doesn't come off too much while handling. these pics are prior to dullcote


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Looking good! Yea you deffinenty have to do just a mist about a foot away on them or they disappear I have found.


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

went back and did the dust effect , this time with grey acrylic and drybrush. I toned it down where necessary with the black wash. touched up the rusty iron as well


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That is very nice, great effect.

But you better eat those bananas soon! 

Greg


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

*did some work on a bachmann 4-6-0*

I built a boilerfront platform / apron. did some weathering on it. always bugged me that the fireman had no place to stand on this thing!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

When I stained my rails with rust dust, most of the clear sealers blew the dust away. I found an Acrylic clear coat that came out as a fine mist when held 18" above. I liked fogging the area on the first coat. Then I could be more direct on later passes.


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

*some more pics in different light*

I put an lgb engineer figure on the platform for some perspective. I am pleased with the way this looks now.. doesn't look like a toy anymore. I will ba adding some more details next.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Domer;

Lionel made some very nice engine crew figures. They still show up at train shows and on the online sale networks from time to time. They were usually packaged six to a card (three crews). I used two of their figures on my Piko camelback 0-6-0 (with a bit of cutting and re-shaping), as shown below.


















Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

nice!


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

that looks like a nice fit. I see the EZ line from the bell. I hipe to add that as well


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Guys;

I use brown "buttonhole twist" thread for bell and whistle ropes (It helps to have a wife who sews!). After the knot is tied to the bell or whistle lever, I usually touch it with a small drop of super glue. The thread will absorb the glue and the glue will hold the knot. After the glue has dried, I trim off the excess thread. Not very high tech, but good to know. Also, I use one strand of thread for both the bell and the whistle, looping it from some point inside the cab. Less chance for an opposite end to come undone that way.

Regards,
David Meashey


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