# Streamlined Garratt build log



## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have been thinking about this project for a long time and finally decided to do it
These monsters ran in Algeria from 1932 till they were abandoned during WWII because the Allied troops could not maintain or run this sophisticated locomotive. They were all consequently scrapped.
The first edition had Walschaerts valving but they were converted to Cossart valves which allowed for earlier cutoffs. This was the ultimate downfall of the engine as the reverse mechanism was electrically controled and there was no mechanical backup in place for when the complex electrical system failed.

There are no measured drawings for it and only a few dimensions but enough for me to build a model.

Here is what I had to start with

Photos of the engine left and right with a coal load in place


















And with the three hatch covers over the coal bin









Here are two drawings which are a little off vs the photos but seem to be very close to scale and show great detail.


















Based on the dimensions I had and the photos and drawings I had, I drew up a 1/32 scale drawing of the model I will be making. It takes up four sheets of paper taped together and the pencil doesn't scan very well but you get the idea.









The boiler is short and fat. The fire box will be 3" x 4" which will be good but the tubes will be only 5-3/4" long so I will be using 1/4 ID tubes.









The prototype wheels were 71" drivers, 1 meter bogies and 1.1 meter pony. I ordered the cast iron wheels from Wallsal in England last week and was surprised to see them show up on Thursday







]

I start by mounting the wheels in the chuck using the outside jaws and here I am turning the back to square it up and get to the back of the spokes.









Before I remove the wheel, I drill and ream the axle hole. Now the back and axle will be true to each other.









These are two mandrels I made up from steel bar stock the driver one is 5 mm and the small wheel one is 5/32"









The wheels are then mounted in the mandrel and the tread is turned to true it up and remove the cast iron scale. With the tread trued up, the wheel is again placed in the chuck with the outside jaws and the hub is turned. Now the wheels are ready for the final tread profile which will be done on Dennis' lathe on Tues.









Once the wheels are finished and I am sure of the flange diameter, I will complete the frame rail drawings. In the past I have done these on my mill but now that Dennis has his CNC mill going, we may try it out here.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

We used Dennis' 12 x 36 lathe and his tread form tool to finish up the wheel machining
Here is a very simple crank pin drilling jig. I just drill and ream a hole in a piece of scrap material the size of the axle hole and mount it flush in the vice with a short piece of axle rod which has a centering hole to zero my measurement









Then I drill out all 12 drivers so the radius is exactly the same for all. You can see the nice profile the wheel tread has now.









I sketched out the side and drive bars to scale and Dennis converted my drawings to CAD and machined them on the CNC mill









I bored and reamed the cylinders similar to the Uintah build but as the stroke is shorter, my wood wedge technique wasn't working. The sharper angle made them slip in the vice. So, I glued them in place with CA and just knocked them off and cleaned the vice jaws up with a scraper when I was done.









The port is started with a 1/16" end mill and then it is used to open the area at the end of the bore. A 1/16" drill is then used to drill to the valve port. The short stroke and 5/8" bore make all of the hole drilling close so it had to be very accurate.









I still have some machining to do but I have most of the cylinder components finished.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Fascinating...would like to read more on the build but also the actual locomotive yet there is no easily found references. Good choice.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Charles said:


> Fascinating...would like to read more on the build but also the actual locomotive yet there is no easily found references. Good choice.


Streamlined Garrats; searching for the illusive _*PRR T1 Streamlined Garratt *_can be a daunting task. But as you can see from this rare photo well worth the effort:








Google Search Terms; "PRR T1 Garratt"
https://www.google.com/search?q=PRR+T1+as+a+Garratt&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS578US578&oq=PRR+T1+as+a+Garratt&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=PRR+T1+Garratt


_*However Ontheotherhand*_... for streamlined Garratts, here are some search terms for you to try and following is a sample of the links those search terms yielded.;
Google Search Terms Used:
"Streamline Garratt"
"Algerian BT class garratt locomotive"
"Algerian Garratts"

The last entry below is to the Yahoo Group: Garratts. If there is anywhere to ask for Garratt info those folks seem to know more than everything on Garratts.

_*Dieselpunks: *_*Algerian Garratts;*
Dieselpunk is an art style that blends the spirit of the 1920s - 1950s with contemporary technology and attitude.
http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/blogs/sunday-streamline-67-algerian-garratts

THE GARRATTS OF ALGERIA
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/peclegg/sncf/articles/article_2007_01.html

Forum: *Board index » Railway Preservation News » Interchange*
http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23521&sid=1c09310fee0226cd7f53e26d7d1c9589

*Garratt*
(From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
*Garratts around the world*
Algeria[edit]
In Algeria 29 4-6-2+2-6-4 Garratts, constructed between 1936 and 1941 by the Société Franco-Belge de Materiel de Chemins de Fer at Raismes in Northern France, operated until the Algerian independence war caused their withdrawal in 1951. This class, designated 231-132BT, was streamlined and featured Cossart motion gear, mechanical stokers and 1.8 m (5 ft 11 in) driving wheels, the largest of any Garrett class. On a test in France, one of these achieved a speed of 132 kilometres per hour (82 mph)—a record for any Garratt class (and indeed any articulated class).[11]

WorldRailFans.info → Main → The RAILWAY DISCUSSION FORUM
Topic: 231-132 BT Beyer-Garratt
http://www.worldrailfans.info/forum/index.php?/topic/1948-231-132-bt-beyer-garratt/

To help you find the builder:* Garratt locomotives from other builders*
http://www.beyergarrattlocos.co.uk/other.html

Google Search Algerian BT class garratt locomotive (Images)
https://www.google.com/search?q=Algerian+BT+class+garratt+locomotive&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS578US578&es_sm=122&biw=1600&bih=744&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QrPOVJ_DF8S-ggSImYPwBQ&ved=0CB0QsAQ

Yahoo Groups: Steam Locomotives Technologies:
[steam_tech] Re: Algerian Garratts
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/steam_tech/conversations/topics/4479

Yahoo Groups: Garratt Talk
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Garratt/info


Good luck hunting. 




PS; Posts like this are an example of the extreme measures one goes to for excitement during the Super Bowl pregame _warmup(?)_


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Must have been a very interesting machining job to get 4.200 hole spacing in a part with .4555 overall length ... 

Thanks for the detailed step-by-step information. I'm really looking forward to following this project.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Chris
I wonder if the Pennsy really existed or just another Photoshop exercise
Everything I have read is that there were never ant Garratts run in the US
It would be a cool model though


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Bill,
I opened Chris' link, it was on a fellow's Fantasy locos page.
Photoshopped for sure.
John


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

Totally fascinating project. Makes you wonder why anyone thought streamlining was important for a machine that rarely went more than 30mph

As you get into the design of the steam delivery system, I do have an Aster AD60 which you are welcome to inspect. I'd also be happy to lend you the AD60 build instructions. I live in Los Altos Hills just off i280 and work in Palo Alto which I think is close by.

Robert


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Robert
Thanks for that offer. I have always been impressed with Aster locos and have never had the opportunity to inspect their Garratt
As for the streamlining, this Garratt reached speeds of over 80 MPH

Here is my current progress

I have finished the machining on the pistons, valves and cylinders. I am waiting to make the piston and valve rods till I have the expansion link and crosshead mounted.

I sketched out the frame design and Dennis converted it to CAD and printed a scale drawing of it.
I secured the four frame pieces together with three dowels and did the cutouts with the band saw and a 1/8" blade. The cylinder mount holes were drilled out on the DRO mill. In the past, I have done the cutouts for the axle boxes on my mill but now that Dennis has CNC on his very ridged mill, they will be more accurate than ever before so off to his house for the final machining.









While I am waiting for the engine frames, I decided to get started on the boiler. The design will be similar to those I have made before which is locomotive style with a ceramic burner. I have found that the ceramic burner seems to heat better with a dry firebox as the majority of the radiant heat goes straight up and the larger element and crown sheet seem to work better than the smaller wet firebox. This boiler is short and fat. the tubes are only 6" long so I am using 1/4" ID tubes. Here I am checking the size and placement against the scale drawing. It looks like it will interfere with the pony wheels but that is because of the photo angle. They will just clear


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

The boiler is now complete. I have taken a lot of photos to show the process

The first thing is to cut the tubes to length and then solder them to the throat sheet. The tubes are inserted into the end plate to keep them parallel and then the throat plate is put on. Clips which are made from music wire are placed on three tubes to keep the plate from sliding down as it expands from the heat.









It is then soldered from the top and the job is checked to make sure the solder flowed to the back side









The assembly is then set in the boiler shell and is held in place with 00-90 screws. As this is in the dry firebox area, brass screws are ok









The front tube sheet is then set in place and is secured by cutting small pieces of 14 ga copper wire and tapering them with a file on the lathe to about .054 at the tip and then driving them in to a # 54 hole









The backhead id drilled out. The four holes in the center are for the window cutout to the left is the front superheater hole and on the right are the two holes for the rear superheater which will make a U in the firebox. the three holes at the top are for the steam pipe.









I added this arch to the throat sheet which will keep the steam pipe from dropping down below the dome









14ga copper wire is threaded to 0-80 and these are screwed in to the throat plate and backhead to support the crown sheet during the solder job









Crown sheet and backhead with supports in place









The boiler is being setup for soldering. Note the curved piece of solder between the throat sheet and boiler shell









Note the white out in the holes next to the crown sheet. this will keep the solder from flowing in to them.









We used a large turbo propane burner to heat the entire mass and here is an acetylene/air torch getting in to the fire box. Note that the top right stay has a round snippet of 1/32" solder around it and you can see another above it which will melt when the torch hits it.









Firebox came out with no leaks on the first firing









And the finished boiler


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bill:
Thanks for posting the photos...interesting boiler work...at first I thought "WOW, why is he using a fully dry firebox?"...but then I went back and realized this was for a ceramic burner...seems to make perfect sense because as you say with a ceramic burner most of the heat is going straight up. Looks like with the fat boiler there is a lot of headspace for steam...that coupled with the large burner area should provide a for a large amount of steam...a good thing since you'll need a lot of steam to feed two sets of cylinders.
I'll be watching your build closely...I have at the back of my bench a long range project building a K1 Garratt...boiler for that loco is short like yours, but smaller area for the firebox...I've built the boiler as a coal fired version which of course could be fired by a ceramic burner, but with the small size I don't think I'd get enough heat...it will be interesting to follow your build to see how things work out.

Best Regards,
Cliff


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Cliff
The ceramic burners are nice in that they burn steadily and are very quiet but they don't have near the heat output of coal.
From what I have read, a dry firebox for coal needs to be mechanically put together or the heat of the coal fire will melt the silver solder
I did a wet firebox on my Heisler and a dry one on the Uintah. Both fireboxes had about the same outside dimensions. It seems like the dry firebox with the larger crown sheet and ceramic plate steams the best. but they both work good. 
And, as you can see from the photos above, the dry one is a lot easier to make.


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill Allen wrote:
(snip)...And, as you can see from the photos above, the dry one is a lot easier to make. (snip)

Yes Bill, I certainly noticed the dry firebox seems easier to make...that's the key thing that intrigued me about the design....thanks for the additional info on boilers for your prior locomotives...I'll keep all this in mind for my next project!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Great workmanship, there. 

I was wondering how you arrived at your tube size and placement? Did you follow any formulas?

Some of the fitting holes at the top look larger than I remember from the Unitah thread? I wondered if you had a reason?

Thanks,
Matthew


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Matthew
I think the formula is from Martin Evans and I don't remember it exactly but it works out to about 1/20 of the tube length to the tube diameter. This is for coal but it seems to work for ceramic also.
As the Uintah is narrow gauge, there was plenty of height in the cab to pull the steam off the top of the boiler. In this 1/32 model, I need to come off the backhead with a tube going to a steam dome in the middle of the boiler, thus the larger hole (7/16" - 24)in the middle on top.
The filler and manifold holes in the back are the standard 3/8" -24


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## roadranger (Jan 6, 2008)

bille1906 said:


> Chris
> I wonder if the Pennsy really existed or just another Photoshop exercise
> Everything I have read is that there were never ant Garratts run in the US
> It would be a cool model though


From what I've read, Baldwin Locomotive Works could not come to terms with Beyer Peacock to license the Garratt design in the USA. I don't know if American Locomotive even looked into a licensing agreement.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I was posting some stuff and was 3/4 of the way through and I hit the X by mistake and closed the program so now I will post a few and finish up at a later date.

Here is the steam tube for the throttle









And the throttle mounted. the two outlets are one for each engine.









Now back to the chassis. The axle blocks are cut and milled to shape and drilled for the axle holes and the spring holes.









And set in place. Note the bronze bushing for the axle.









The side rods are now placed over the axles to ensure there is proper spacing on all components.









The rear axle is fitted with a ball bearing eccentric.









The axle pump is fitted with a scotch yoke and bronze piston









The pump is mounted. the shoulder bolt is the rear truck pivot









The rear cross member and truck support is curved to clear the yoke.









The rear truck is set in place and measured up









The rear wheels need to be as close to the drivers as possible for the firebox clearance so I am holding things in place with the vice grips to check clearance in all positions.







.

This is a poor man's rotary table for cutting the slot in the truck


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

The front trucks are not as complicated as the rear pony truck. A stretcher is mounted in the frame between the cylinders with a 8-32 hole tapped out. The pilot truck rails are cut out of 1/8" x 1/2" brass bar on the band saw. The crossmebmer is from 1/8' X 1" brass flat bar. the shoulder bolt and washer are turned on the lathe. The spring is from cut-to-length stock from McMaster









The prototype had a single bar crosshead but there isn't a lot of detail available so I just came up with a design that looked good to me. I take the 1/8" tool steel stock and polish it on the bench belt sander. It is so hard that the sander is all that is needed to polish it. Then in the four jaw chick on the lathe, I turn the ends down to 1/16" round which go into 1/16" holes drilled in the cylinder head and rear brace.









Here is the underside of the mostly finished chassis. The other chassis does not have an axle pump.









In this side view, you can see the rectangular bracket above the front drivers which supports the crosshead bar and will hold the expansion link for the yet to be made valve gear









And another view


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Bill...I noted with interest your steam tube...could you give a bit of explanation regarding this?...I see the tube coming up into the steam dome, and it looks like a solid rod exiting the backhead...is the steam valve itself inside the boiler below the steam dome, or is it perhaps located in the piece you have mounted on the backhead where the two outlets are located.

I'm in the middle of making the internal steam valves for our Lawley project and due the complexity I'm very interested to see the designs of others...looking for simpler solutions for future projects.

Best Regards,
Cliff


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Hi Cliff
That is actually a 5/32 tube coming out the back. Here is a photo of the assembly. The valve body has a 5/32" by 1/8 deep hole where the copper tube is silver soldered to it which doesn't show here. In order to get the nice bend in the tube, i had to anneal it which makes it pretty soft. If you go up to the middle of the boiler photos, you will see where I added an arch to the throat sheet to keep the tube from drooping down over time. The tube is fished through the hole in the backhead and guided through with the end pointing sideways and then turned to vertical when it is lined up with the dome hole.









The hole in the backhead is countersunk to retain the o-ring seal









Here are the working parts of the throttle valve. Because of the four 5/8" cylinders and because I will be using RC, I have a very blunt needle valve as I will be limited in the throttle opening









Here is a rough sketch of the valve


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

A brilliant design Bill!...thanks for sharing the details.

I particularly like your "napkin sketches"....looks exactly like some of the working drawings I have done for my own projects...I picked up several tips just by studying your sketch.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Cliff
I was cleaning up and found this piece of toilet paper with some more dimensions on it for the needle valve


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Hello Bille 1906 and all:
I am wondering why those cylinders have their valve chest on top Bille 1906? The real loco was fitted with Cossart valves which are nearly impossible to make in gauge one, granted. Nevertheless that valve gear was fascinating to watch in action: The big excentric rod was off the crank like any walshaerts gear loco, but the comparisson stops here, it was weighed in order to counterbalance dynamically the piston and cross heads weight in order to reduce hammer blow. Then it was balanced with an outside rocker, whose principle is identical to the rockers on most nineteenth century US engines with inside excentrics and rockers to outside valves. Then there is the "bielle dentelle" (literally lace rod!) wich transformed the to and fro movement into a rotary one this rod had a spring system which could give a litlle, I suspect that there was also an adjustment device in it for fine tunning of the gear. This rotary movement was given to a sort of flywheel with a crank called : le "tourne broche" or litterally ( the rotisserie crank!) (French railroad slang was as flowery as US railroad slang as you can see). This rotary movement was comunicated in turn by gears to the central cam axle, paralel to the tourne broche axle sitting right in the midle of the steam chest. The cams lifted alternally four sets of valves through levers that went up and down in sequence of course. This action was true wonder to behold of course. So on my NORD De Caso tank 1-4-1 TC in SNCF parlance 4 -1200 in NORD parlance contemporary to the garrat, (but which remained in service untill 1970 in the Gare du Nord to Valmondois service (my home town) and to Persan Baumont , which is why I remember them very well) I shall use slip excentrics in board and a fake Cossart with all the exciting action outboard. Watching this show makes Walshaerts or Stephenson gears look like a bore. But whatever keep up the beautifull work. By this time next year we should have photos of two projects fitted with the Cossart Gear.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I think you answered your own question of why I didn't attempt to fabricate real Cossart valving. From what I have read, these were originally fitted with Walschaerts valving and later converted to Cossart so my plan has been to model the pre-Cossart loco.
However, after looking at the only photos available if the loco which all have Cossart, I am thinking I may customize the Walschaerts linkage to at least resemble some of the Cossart levers.
Stay tuned


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I am moving around a little here. Usually I try to finish every component before moving to the next but I wanted to get a good feel for the size and balance of the loco

The center frame starts with a simple box frame which pivots between the two rear drivers on each truck. because the bunkers are above the pivot and the rear trucks and axle pump are below, it would require major disassembly of components to get to it, for separation of the center frame from the power trucks. I used a similar setup to what I did on my Heisler

The riser is effectively made into two pieces which are held together with a set screw.









The bottom section is soldered to the truck crosmember. I finally broke down and bought a pound of 1/32 stay brite. It was expensive but should last for a long time. Here I ring it around the riser and just heat it up till it flows into the joint









Here it is mounted. You can see how it would be impossible to get to a screw from the bottom with the axle pump in the way









Here the two pieces are joined. the pivot point is just below the screw and is between the risor and the upper stretcher









This shows how the truck is released with a twist of the Allen wrench









And here is the center frame mounted


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 93 










Good to hear your intention Bille 1906, Alas the first séries of Algerian garrat in standard gauge have a totally different esthetic, I can't post photos on this forum to show you but here is the link to a good photo of one: 

http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/sunday-streamline-67-algerian-garratts 

In that site if you look at the third photo you have an idea of its esthetics, quite diferent from the streamline one. Do note though that there were two railway companys in Algeria the PLM algérien and the ETAT algerien. these merged around that time (I am not an algerian railroad expert) But the streamlined ones were not conversions of the older class ordered by the PLM algerien. They were a new order from the Franco Belge which incorporated features from the NORD railway of France. I read somewhere that the motive power department of the NORD was quite pissed off that the Franco Belge incorporated their valve gear without asking them...
I also have a photo of the Nord Mikado tank Roger Marsh did for my friend John Wood of the SNCF society, live steam in gauge one. which I can't post for the same reason...
But I am impressed at the speed you turn these wonders out keep up the good work.
Simon


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I must make ammends, Bille:
I have just found a photo of the PLM algerien Garrat fitted with Cossart gear! To my utter surprise as in France these are always mentionned as two different series, although they are evidently an evolution from the early one to the latter. There isn't much info on these in France and I am more interested on French prototypes than Algerian ones, although that particular loco does have a very strong appeal to me because of it's NORD heritage. I just couldn't immagine PLM engeneers adopting a NORD practice piecemeal; the two are as opposed as Greek architechture and Gothic. Yet here it is, and as always there is a prototype for everything. So, inversly, it just might be that one of the older non Cossart equiped Garrats could have gotten the beauty treatment (IE: the streamlining)...


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I finished up the rear chassis this week and tested it on air. It ran smoothly in both directions at 5 psi and I could easily count the wheel revolutions when I slowed it down. I will be adding cylinder covers and a replica of the Cossart valving. Dennis and I are working on a design which will have a rotating crank and valve stems which will go up and down

The return crank (eccentric crank) is critical to the valve operation and timing, The distance between holes needs to be within .001" to get the correct timing. Here Dennis is machining them out on the CNC









And cleaned up with the clamp bolt in place.









The automatic drain cocks are made as follows
The 3/32" rod on the left is drilled out to .040" and a shoulder is cut to fit into a 1/16" hole that will be drilled into the 3/16" piece of rod on the rt.









The two are silver soldered together.









Then chucked in the lathe, drilled and then finished up with a D bit









A 1/8" SS ball is inserted and the cap which is turned slightly oversize is pressed in. This will be removable by grabbing and twisting with a pair of pliers. The valve it's self is also pressed into the cylinder and blue loctite is used to further secure it.









Here are the Walschaerts components left to right: valve, valve stem, combination lever and link, radius rod, expansion link, link block, return link, return crank.









the heart of the Walschaerts valving is the combination lever. Note how the valve stem is connected to one hole and the radius rod is connected to a hole below it and how the rod ends are rounded for clearence as the valve and combo lever move about. If you see a model with the stem and radius rod at the same level, it is not Walschaerts and will perform poorly.









Here is the expansion link with the block in somewhat mid gear. Reverse is up and forward is down. On the Garratt, one is up and the other down. The reverse lever and link are shown lifting the block.









So, here is the whole setup. You can seethe drain cocks in place. They will be partially covered by the cylinder cover.









And the whole thing as it is so far. The front chassis is not complete but I made all of the parts fo it as I went along on the rear one.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, did you buy any of that paste? I usually buy the wire in 1/32. I have some 1/16 but its usually too much for small joints but usually grab the 1/32. I also have some rods 1/16x1/8 for boilers that I have not yet attempted. I leave that to Justin as I don't have the place to solder that large anyway.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Jason
I didn't get the paste yet and have been using 1/32 silver solder on most jobs. I use 1/16" for boilers and larger pieces.
I will be doing some small pieces today or tomorrow and will take some pictures and post them.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I've gotten a lot done since my last post

Dennis made some Cossart type links which replace my Walschaerts return links. We will add another lightened one which will go from the top of the expansion link to the faux Cossart cam box which will be mounted on top of the valve chest.









Both chassis are air tested with the new links and are now ready for paint which will come after the cam boxes are done









The bunkers are somewhat complex. They are each at least three pieces.
The first thing is the frame risers. I cut patterns from card stock and check dimensions









The next piece is the plate which will be the running boards and house the headlights. Card stock is used again and held with masking tape

















I had some heavy gasket material in a roll which was just right for a pattern for the half cylinder. The paper strips are to judge the front shape.









The frame risers are cut from 1/32" brass sheet









Card stock pattern is given one last check









It was a nice day so I took it out to the track and ran it around the turns and through the switches.









The rear bunker has three hatches. If I cut them out first, I don't think I would be able to roll it out right so I used a countersink on the mill to get a .020" groove in the .050 material.

















We rolled the half cylinders out at Davids and I used a slitting saw to cut the bunkers out.









The fronts of the bunkers took almost two days mostly because I used too thin of a copper sheet (.032) the first time. I then got some .050" sheet and it worked better. I bent it over a wood former and with about six annealing's, it came out pretty good. The rear bunker will have the removable hatch for access to the hand pump and a working front door for the lubricator access. The front bunker will tilt for access to that lubricator.









Front hinge rod









With the hinge installed


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Wow Bill I am trully amazed at the speed at which you are progressing, and it certainly begins to look more and more like this quite exceptional engine.
I always like that point in scratchbuilding, when one gets to the point where it beggins to look like what it will be when finnished. Send me an E mail and I will send you photos of the 1-4-1 TC that Roger Marsh did for my friend John Wood (of the SNCF society). His Cossart looks just like the real ones did.
If my old friend JVR was still around he would have followed this very attentively.
Keep up the great work.
Simon


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

Seeing work like this keeps me in the shop destroying small pieces of brass. It tells me I should be able to do that small thing I want to build and to keep at it.

Thanks Bill! Really lovely work.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice bodywork. That's the hardest part of these trains. Straight folds and bends are easy. So long as its laid out right and you fold on the right line from the right side. HAHA Been there.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks guys

Simon
I sent you a PM with my email address

Also to Simon or anyone
I read that this was PLM green but I don't have a source or a paint chip for that color. I wonder if anyone has any info on it


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Here is a full view of the tilting bunker









The lubricator will poke through the plate and I will have easy access by tilting the bunker. it is adjustable by the 2-56 crown nut shown in the middle of the hole.









This shows the servo on the right for the reverse lever and the steam piping. The "Dog Bone" steam swivel is under the chassis pivot.









Here is how it will be accessed










The rear chassis will be more complicated as the bunker won't tilt and there is an axle pump. Here I have made the dead leg lubricator piping with an adjustment valve.









And here is how it is hooked up to the cylinders. The gland nut secures the valve to the frame riser and the adjustment is made from the side with a 1/8" nut driver.









At the other end the tube is secured with one of the pivot bolts and the "Dog Bone" connection is made. The tube on the right is the outlet of the axle pump









The lubricator is silver soldered at an angle to it's bracket and the tube is soldered to the sleeve connector with Stay Bright which is used so I can solder it in place.









The lubricator is now accessible through the front (rear) door


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Magic! Artistry! 
Thanks for sharing.
John


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## JimB (Jan 25, 2013)

*Beautiful Work*

Great work. Thanks for showing the details, James


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Still working on the bunkers
The rear bunker has the axle pump, hand pump, fuel tank and water reservoir.
The axle pump is small and with 5/8" cylinders, i don't think I will need a bypass valve.
The hand pump and axle pump will be in series.

Here is the hand pump with the tubing that will go through the floor to the axle pump. The 0-ring will seal the tube where it goes through the floor of the tank. 









The fuel tank is on the right









Here is the crank and lever for the animated Cossart linkage. The crank is timed to the wheels and quartered with the other side so it will spin around. The brass block is temporary as the Cam Box is still in production. I did this just to check measurements and clearances







.

The crank looks too small so I roughed out a larger one









That looks a little better. In fact, it can be even a little larger









I painted the frames and after an hour when it was still soft, scraped the paint from the axle box slots with an exacto blade. The springs are then installed.









The buffer and door are fitted to the bunker


















Chassis are reassembled after painting


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Great lessons here Bill....thanks for posting...I'm going to use several of your methods for dealing with steam in the two bogies when I get back onto my K1 build.

I appreciate your regular postings...your quick action has me charged up to get back on the Lawley steam regulators...I had made all 5 incorrectly last month and decided I needed a break...time to "get back on the saddle" and move the project forward....


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

This thread is a joy to read. 

It's not only about the research, planning, execution and result, but also the pace. 

Cheers,

Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

There are six hand rails with 40 stanchions. I need to mass produce them
Here I have a form tool which I shaped with a Dremmel cut off tool and I am making multiple cuts in a 1/8" brass rod.









The finished length is then turned around for 0-80 threading. This needs to be positioned just right in the chuck jaws so that they hold two points while the end is turned down to size.









The sheen from the newly turned brass makes for a blurry photo but here I am cutting each piece off with a jeweler's saw









Here are the lengths with the finished stanchions below









The cylinder covers have a rectangular raised portion. I went a little wider than the prototype because I think it has better balance that way. I made the form presses from some scrap brass. The female was made .030 oversize for clearance of the .015 material.









Here the stanchions have been primed. The brass rail will be replaced with a SS one which is on order. The ladders (4) were made by rough cutting the rails out of .050 sheet stock on the 1/8" blade band saw. The 8 rails were then bolted together at two of the rung holes and then the finish trimming was done on the band saw, 1" belt sander and drum sander. The rung holes are .060 and the rungs are .0625 with a shoulder .050 deep and .060 at the small end.
The buffer is in place and the first headlight attempt is in place.









Here are the finished headlight assemblies. They are tilted here because the front ends are contoured to the curvature of the opening. These fit flush as in the prototype. The bulbs are 3.2v 20 ma warm white LED's. the lenses are polycarbonate.









This photo is with a 330 ohm resistor. It is too bright so I will be using a 440 ohm or maybe a smaller resistor with a small pot in the bunker so i can adjust the brilliance of the lights to conditions


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Bill PLM green was an olive coloured green fairly light for French railways certainly lighter than SNCF green and with some unburnt sienna in it to give it the olive tinge. I will try to open your PM shortly, I have been pretty busy lately. Great job and the "bielle dentelle" (literally "lace rod") is superb.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Simon
A gent built an HO Garratt and posted photos on the Shapeways site. I asked him what color he used and here is his response

"Hi Bille1906, I've done quite a bit of research regarding the color of this great prototype. First of all check the "Note on liveries" in the article at: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/peclegg/sncf/articles/article_200 7_01.html It states that all the PLM's Garratts were painted in PLM green. That's what you also figured out. If you do further research you will find out that the color PLM green is nothing more than "vert réséda" or in English: reseda green. The RAL classification number is 6011.

I ordered and received yesterday two cans of this paint. It is very light and only slightly olive. Not very pleasing to my taste but if it is the true color, I can see why it looks silver in all of the B&W photos.

I'll post some photos today


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

I did a Google Image search on "ral60011 reseda green" and surprisingly quite a few samples showed up. Some are all over the green spectrum but the ones actually labeled ral 60011 were very consistent.
http://tinyurl.com/ll62k8w
I must agree with you "Not very pleasing to my taste" either. Leaves a bad taste in my mouth like eating cheap caned peas. 
Wesley


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Yes
Before I got the RAL number, I matched a color at the hobby shop to some photos of PLM locos and come up with a more pleasing color but I guess if I am to build a "scale" model, I should use the right color.


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

bille1906 said:


> Yes
> Before I got the RAL number, I matched a color at the hobby shop to some photos of PLM locos and come up with a more pleasing color but I guess if I am to build a "scale" model, I should use the right color.


This is a tough call.

After putting in all of the splendid work that you have done thus far and will have done in the future, will you ever get used to a color that you find displeasing to the eye today?

Paint production runs or batches differ batch to batch, especially prior to the computer matching age and the effects of sunlight and weathering on old pigments is anyone's guess, within reason. Maybe they ran out of paint when they painted your loco and they had to thin it out with the nearest thing they could find, which happened to be a bit olive?

If it were I, I would start with the *right* color and then find the most convenient rationalization I can muster to arrive at a more pleasing result.

We can keep a secret, can't we?

This is an inspirational thread to be sure.

Cheers,

Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I may be getting used to the color

























You can see how the color changes with the light angles. It seems a little blah and monochromatic now so i may break things up with a black ladder and water hatch cover later. The B&W photo doesn't give any idea of the buffer color but it is probably red or maroon 

The headlights are installed and the RC equipment in the front bunker is started.









Here is something I didn't show in the rear bunker. Where the gas line goes through the bottom of the water filled bunker, it will transfer to a flex tube for the pivot point. To get a water tight transition, I drill a hole the OD of the tube at rest (.221") and then the 1/8" copper tube is inserted into the silicone tube which increases the OD of the tube.









Now the assembly is pulled through the hole by the tube . The pulling stretches the tube so it goes through fairly easily and when it is released, the hole creates a seal in the chamber and acts like a clamp for the tube.


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

Not sure whether you found this thread, but scroll down a bit:

http://us.leforum.eu/t1776-Mon-petit-Reseau.htm?start=2940


Some images:
























If nothing else, a curiosity.
Cheers,
Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Joe, I hadn't seen this
That's and interesting model. It looks like it might be G gauge. I assume electric
I wish I could read french or whatever it is.
The detail on the top is interesting as that none of the available photos show the top and it is left to our imagination
The cylinders look great also. It might cause me to think about changing the covers somewhat

The hinges on the rear bunker are not to scale but they look impressive. Also more rivets are shown that I see on the prototype but again pleasing to the eye
Interesting how the light changes the color appearence from almost black to the lime green of the RAL 6011


All in all. if my model comes out as nice as this one, I'll be happy
Thanks for sharing


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

It's in French Bill and the images are from a toy museum display at the Rambolitrain Museum:

http://www.rambolitrain.com/

Perhaps a little digging will turn up more information?

Also in the thread was a reference to another site which I think you may have found here:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/peclegg/sncf/articles/article_2007_01.html

I noticed the upper view details in the thread and also that the color seems to be a bit darker and more what we associate as PLM green. Is it the same color you are already using? Lighting has such influence on what we see and perhaps your photos are taken under very bright lighting.

Cheers,

Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Yes Joe
My shop is well lit with florescent lighting and I am pretty sure mine is the same color
Mine will probably darken up a bit as the paint fully cures


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Try using Chrome, it will translate websites on the fly. Awkward often, especially on technical matters like steam models, but usually good enough to read and understand.


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

With I.E. one can right-click and use either Bing or one's other chosen default translator, but one has to be careful with the translations which are usually quite literal and do not take idiom into account.

I understand very little French as I only studied it a bit in grammar school, however; I do much better with German where I studied in High School and in College.

If one uses the Bing translation for the site cited above, there can be some amusing translations. 


Cheers,

Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have Chrome which usually translates for me but I couldn't do it here. I have a french friend who looked it over and said there is no real info available. He thinks it is a static model. The museum specializes in pre WWII trains so there is a chance the model may have been made by the engine manufacturer at the time the originals were built


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

Here is something you will appreciate:

http://homepage1.nifty.com/bigboy232u/bt1105.jpg

Someone has drawings for this locomotive for sure. I bet you can find them if you have a mind to do so.

On the other hand, too much information may cause a lot of extra work, so maybe less is more? 

Cheers,

Joe


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

The green model looks like the boiler and cab sides are in fact black (or at least a darker green) up to the running board height, along with the tops of the running boards. The silver model seems to indicate this too, with a darker grey color on the bottom of the boiler and lower cab sides.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

*Joe*
I actually got some drawings and started following them until I found out that the wheel counter weights were way out of scale. I had made them to the drawing and after they were installed and they didn't look right, I checked the photo of the original and then had to knock them off and replace them with scale looking ones.
I have photos of the silver one too. Too bad he painted this beautiful model silver. It even looks like metallic paint which I don't believe was available in 1932

*Richard *
The lighting must have been very bad in the museum and maybe the model was only lit up where the flash hit it dead on so all but the last photo do not show the true color and the last photo, only on the close part.
I am pretty sure the tops of the running boards are the light green as the photos of the original from the front show no difference in color of the running boards where they curve down and house the headlights. 
I think the two tone lines of the silver model are correct except that the smoke box may be green. The B&W shots of the original don't seem to have any difference in shade and I have seen some other PLM engines with green smoke boxes
I won't be painting that for a while so any input here will be welcomed.
Thanks


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

just looking through my photos, I noticed that this french Garratt is green below the boiler and not black like the models we have been discussing









And looking at the B&w photos of the prototype, It doesn't look likr there is a change in shade there either









*Could it be that it is really all green?*


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Going back to the photos in your first post at the very beginning of this thread, I don't see a change in shade in the first two pictures, but in the third one it is faintly visible on the cab side and markedly more visible on the lower part of the boiler. I wonder if the color scheme was simplified at some point.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Yep
I think you are right but the green one is older so they probably added the two tone scheme later on
The drawings are of the engine after the lightening holes were added to the Cossart return crank and it is two tone
So I guess I can go either way
Thanks


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

More progress but things are slowing down as I spend more time figuring out angles and such than making chips.

I finished the buffers and painted them but the red just was too bright and shiny against the pale green so I used some ageing glaze I had on the shelf to tone it down and it also accentuates the various parts 









I am now using a metal cutting blade which has a narrower kerf than the standard carbide blade so i made a new zero clearance throat for the table saw. This is essential when cutting sheet stock and small pieces.









The skyline casing spans three different levels of the boiler so I started with card stock, trimmed it to fit, marked the holes and then glued it to the .020 sheet stock. I then cut it on the zero clearance throat with the rip fence. Note the three different cuts









The rivets were then embossed and it was annealed and bent to shape. The four corner rivets were drilled out and replaced with 00-90 hex screws









The smoke deflectors are surrounded with a beading. Using the same table saw setup. I ripped some 1/16" copper tubing to about .040". I wanted ti cut just enough off to open a slot that I could fit the .020" stock into. This is what it looks like after it is cut and after cleaning up and installed. The tubing needs to be cut before annealing or it will not stay true while ripping. Also, you can only cut to about 2" from the end before you stop the saw to remove the piece.









And here are the deflectors installed







.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I am totally amazed that you can cut such small stuff on a table saw! The would scare me to death. I think I will stick with the band saw.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

It is not a job for the novice woodworker or the faint of heart.
There are several keys
1. the metal saw blade cuts through brass and copper like it was butter
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-...9450979&sr=1-2&keywords=8+metal+cutting+blade
2. the zero clearance throat plate prevents kick back and pulling of the material
3. The main cause of table saw accidents is people are so tentative that they don't hold the stock firmly enough and the saw takes over the feeding.
4. small rips like the copper tube must be done on a length long enough so that the feeding hand never gets close to the blade and the remaining stock is discarded to the scrap material bin


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I decided to use a different technique on the cab than I have in the past

I clamped the .032" brass sheet to the bed of the mill and using a 1/16" end mill set at.031" depth, I milled out the cut outs and edges and with a countersink set at .016" I made the bend scribes with a countersink set at /016" deep









The scribes will make for easy bending without the need for annealing









The window frames were cut to a .040 width the same way









The cab is assembled with the front and back cut out on the band saw. The window frames are attached with JB Weld. The grab rail stanchons are similar to the bunker ones but a little shorter.









The roof is made from .040 brass sheet annealed and bent in one piece with the skyline casing then soldered on. The rain gutters are made from 1/16" brass square stock annealed for the door opening bend









The ceramic burner is made similar to my other engines









and bench tested on low and high

















After the burner is tested in the boiler, I am ready to do some plumbing. The front superheater is routed through the firebox and then through the large flue to the smokebox. the rear one makes a U-turn in the firebox and then comes out below the cab floor 









And the backhead piping









There are bushings that are a press fit on each tube where it comes out through the backhead to seal the opening.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Dennis has been working on the Cossart cam boxes for a while now. It has been a daunting task as there is little room to work in and no room for error.

Here are all of the parts that go in to one box
Not the small cams on the shaft at the bottom and the Scotch type cam followers 









The drive shaft on the prototype is not in the center of the box, Thus the gears to the cam shaft









The rocker arms are in different plains so the left one goes in first.









Then the right









The front cover holds everything in place









The retaining clip and crank go on last









Finally it is painted, quartered to the other side and mounted to the cylinder.
The movement will be that of the crank spinning and the two valve stems alternating up and down


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi Bill: You did a superior job on the cam box of the Cossart and it will make this a unique model as it is really fascinating to watch this gear in action. You will double the fun too!
The model at the Rambolitrain museum was made by Gaume, I think, one of the finer gauge O model builders of the '40 and '50 for the collector who gave his entire collection and the house to house it in to the city of Rambouillet to make the Rambolitrain museum. I have strong relations with the museum and its animators, and one of my good friend and fellow Gauge one modeler Denis made many of the signals on the fine scale gauge O layout. These are fabulous models with very fine and scale mechanism. It is likely the correct paint scheme because the model was made at about the same time as the prototype was. However I have seen a magnificent 3 1/2 or 5" gauge model of this fine loco built by a very tallented model engeneer, that was painted silver. It is just possible that these locos were repainted silver once in Algeria as dark olive green would make the crew bake in the cab, silver would have reflected at least the sunlight. Also it seems to have been adopted for Algerian railways after the war.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Hooking up the connections between the three sections is interesting. the front engine is simple as it has only steam and exhaust but the rear also has the feedwater from the axle pump and the butane 
I am using a mechanical dog bone flex connector for the superheated steam and semi-soft silicone hose for the rest. The tubing will be clamped but I made these brass fittings for the ends. It makes for easier and quicker connections.









All of this goes under the cab floor









You can see I have the tubing crisscrossed to limit binding and the large copper exhaust tube is outside the frame









This is an exhaust gatherer for the two engines. i have cylinder drains but I also put a small hole in the bottom to drain water.









Here it is mounted to the smoke box
.









There is no visible clack valve on the prototype so mine is in-line below the running board









A "D" bit is made to get a nice round seat for the pop-off valves.









The top of the valve (upper left) needs to be machined but I don't want to damage the threads in the mill vise so I make this holder (lower left) by tapping out a piece of 1/4" stock to 5 mm and silting it with a jewelers saw









I can then do my thing

















The valves are then set and mounted under the skyline casing









A manifold is made and sight and pressure gauges are added. The black tube which goes down and then alongside the firebox is for the whistles and steam generators.









The pressure gauge fits in the window









And the sight glass can be seen through the door









The throttle servo is mounted on the cab floor.


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the posting Bill...lots of great information in this latest set of photos.

I particularly like the low profile pop off valves...nicely done!

Any chance you have a detail photo of the mechanical dogbone flex connection?...I see application for that on my K1 project.

Great work!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Cliff
here you go


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you Bill....the drawing filled in the missing data points for me...very helpful!


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## JimB (Jan 25, 2013)

*Amazing work*

Truly amazing work. 

I struggle with cutting brass sheet on the saw. The sheet winds up lifting and it's hard to control the sheet with my hands. James


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Jim,

Try using a sacrificial wood backing, it lets you press fully on the thin sheet and directly over the blade. You've also got more mass, easier and safer holding when feeding stock into your saw.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I had a problem with my memory card and lost some photos but here is what I have

The center sections has some interesting components.

Here is the dual air pump









and pipes along the side of the frame









The painted compressors









The prototype had a Worthington heat pump which from what I understand it is a steam driven water pump with a heat exchanger in the smokebox to supply heated water to the boiler. This is the best image I was able to find. It doesn't have the heater but that would have been hidden inside the smokebox.









Three pieces are turned out on the lathe and mill to get the general shape.









my rendition 









and mounted









This is my compact whistle valve. the groved part on the left is where the lever is mounted and held with a set screw.









here it is with the servo mounted









here is the four whistles fitted in. the round knob at thr bottom is where the valve for the steam to the generators is.

















and the dual steam generators.









The ladders are installed and the boiler is painted. The bottom of the boiler is black so I will wait till the paint is fully dry before masking it off


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

that is just awesome!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well, I put everything together this morning and took some photos


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

Very impressive! What a beautiful build.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi Bill:
Indeed what a beautifull job and in such short time, it is amazing to see how rapidly you turned this rather complex model out. It is certainly one of the most fascinating model of a French prototype which has been built so far in gauge one. My old friend John Van Riemsdijk would have certainly congratulated you, if he was still with us. The PLM green is quite good and the whole engine is really a masterpiece. Hope you can show videos of it in action soon.
I should get on with my own 1-4-1 TC soon as I will retire in a couple of month, this will make yet another model fitted with the Cossart gear. Although I doubt that I will be as fast as you are, trully amazed!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Dave, Simon
Yes, i just checked my start date and it was a little under four months which seems to be my time frame for my larger builds. I will post a video after I have it run in and I finish with the household chores I have been neglecting.
Simon
I have higher resolution photos I can send you when you start your model if they will help. If you can, why don't you try Stephenson valve gear vs. slip eccentric. You will still be able to duplicate the Cossart outside look and be able to time your engine better and RC the reverse if you want.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, amazing! I'm speechless!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Another fine build there Bill. I'll have the rolling stock ready for Sacramento!!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Bob
See you there


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Looking at the last photo of the left side, you can see that the center frame is missing something. I went back to the photos of the original and determined that there seemed to be an outside mounted reversing mechanism. Articles mentioned an electric actuated reversing system so it must have been that.

The electric drive motor seems to have been mounted above an electrical box and connected by conduits. something like this









Then a drive rod was run to each engine using a universal joint to compensate for the articulation.



























Then a carrying case. I like open cases as I can display the locos without taking them out. Here it is getting the first coat of tongue oil









The buffers will fit in these holes and hold everything in place.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Hi Bill: I didn't check in for a few days so this is a bit delayed answer. I didn't plan to fit a Stephenson valve gear originally and now the excentrics are on my chassis and it would be difficult to modify. Also I have John Van Riemsdijk NORD atlantic which he fitted with an inside Stephenson valve gear driving two inside slide valves that feed four single acting cylinders. This strange layout was to permit copying, in scale, the very small HP cylinders over the rear bogie wheels. There isn't enough space to design properly the Stephenson valve gear and it can't be notched up nor even reversed. JVR himself admitted that he should have put a slip excentric instead. And beleive me, he wasn't an advocate of slip excentrics... If I wanted an adjustable valve gear I would go for a Hackworth gear. As it is though, these locos were suburban engines with stops at short distances so it wouldnt be a problem. Also I don't have your talent, alas.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

My first video of the Garratt. It was kind of hard running it and doing the video and then I used the YouTube editor to correct the shaking and it made the engine look rubbery at the start but i was able to use the slow motion tool to show the action of the Cossart valves.

The load car is at it's maximum drag which is 1.3 pounds draw bar or about the same as 10 -12 cars.
I tested the engine pull and it is at 7 pounds at 50 psi which is more that I will ever need but I am interested to see what it looks and sounds like at maximum drag.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

That valve action is very cool and complicated looking! You did an unbelievable job on that locomotive. Thanks for all your informative posts.


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

Bill,

I've enjoyed this inspirational thread.

Great precision work and a fine result!

I assume the towed vehicle with the disk and caliper is some sort of home-brewed loading simulation system?

Have you documented the building it it here somewhere?

Regards,

Joe


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Joe
It is an Eddy current drag car that is adjustable from almost zero drag to 1.3 pounds by moving the magnets in and out of the two disks. It was designed and made by my friend Dennis Mead who also made a governor car that increases drag as it goes faster. It is weighted down with lead and I believe it maxes out at over two pounds pull

I am contemplating building coaches for the Garratt. Apparently, there were some torpedo cars Smooth streamlined) delivered to Algeria around the same time as the Garratt and I have a couple of photos of them.


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

Bill,

Thanks. 

A magnetic resistance (magnetic brake) system is infinitely better than what first looked to me to be a disk brake/caliper assembly coupled to the wheels. 

Or perhaps it may have been a CD/DVD player for some north African traveling music? 

I have had two elliptical trainer exercise machines now that employ the Eddy current system and the granular level of control, quiet, and smoothness of operation trump any mechanical contrivances.

You've done a splendid job creating that model.

Cheers,

Joe


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
More videos please. Longer also. Could watch this beauty all day. Thanks for all the posts on the build of this baby.
Noel


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Just got this video a friend took at Rob's steamup


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Uh, it tells me "Please sign in to view this video" when I click the Play button. Probably needs another permission adjustment.

David Meashey


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I think it went private
This should fix it


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, it did. What a wonderful train! Thanks Bill!

David Meashey


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

Excellent and unique!

Cheers,

Joe


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