# Large flanges and Code 250?



## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

(I'm sure this question has been asked many times before, but I don't seem to have any luck using the search feature)


I'm trying to decide whether to switch to Code 250 from Code 332. I run virtually all LGB rolling stock. 

Will the large flanges interfere with the spike heads on Sunset Valley or Accucraft Code 250 flex track?
Will they ride up in the flangeways?
Are there other problems you've encountered?
If this has all been discussed before, would somebody please point me to the thread? 



Thanks for any help you care to offer.


Dawg


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I have Sunset Valley code 250 and run Aristo Craft all the time and they have big flanges. My USA stuff does fine also. Finer Gary Raymond flanges 
do okay also, I put them on my Zephyer, they are not his real fine ones though.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Dagnabit,

I have some Lages code 215 track. I have bachman, serria valley and usa wheels and none of them had a problem on the 215 track. You should be fine with code 250

Chuck


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## pdk (Jan 2, 2008)

Lots of 250 experience. Not a problem. 

Wondering...why are you considering switching?


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

My LGB Mike has no flange issues running on Code 250, and that includes Code 250 switches (Sunset Valley). However, I did have a problem with the pickup sliders going across the frog of the #6 switches. They would spark. I removed the sliders and no more issues and the loco runs just as great as it did with the pickups.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, good news, guys. Thanks. That eases my worries considerably.


Pete - I'm considering switching mostly for reasons of cost, but also appearance. I have a little 332 down now, but plan to add ~500 feet more over the next two years. Every dime saved helps.


Regards,

Dawg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Put it on a good, solid foundation and it'll be just as sturdy as 332. Mine's over 4" of crushed, compressed stone dust, and I can walk on it without much worry (except in certain areas where the ballast prefers to wash away). I don't make a habit of walking on it, mind you, but it's not a concern when I am forced to. 

BTW, the deepest flange I've ever encountered was 3/16" deep, which still leaves you 1/16" for spike detail. Plenty of clearance. 

Later, 

K


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Trains look MUCH better on code 250, get a piece and you will see what I mean. When I first started in this 15 or so years ago I bought a FA set and a 6' piece of Aristo track to sit it on while I was working out what to do with my planned layout. I then got a piece of code 250, the engine looked SOOOO much better that getting the code 250 was a no-brainer(I'm well qualified!)


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Wanted to share a photo that show pretty large flanges on code 250 rail (sorry about the splashed up dirt, but it rained right before this photo was taken):











That's a USA Trains woodside boxcar (roughly 1:22.5) with Bachmann metal wheels. The track is Llagas Creek code 250 nickel silver rail with "narrow gauge" ties. I haven't noticed any problematic issues running our mostly LGB scaled trains on this track. In fact the only problems have been the occasional out of alignment Bachmann wheel. But that's the wheels fault, not the rail code.

Hope this helps.

One question though, will code 250 really be cheaper then 332? I figured it would be the opposite. It definitely cost us way more going with Llagas code 250 when compared to other brands (and this includes using non factory assembled Llagas track too). But we decided to put the money in good looking and operating track right from the start so we wouldn't have troubles running trains later on. So far it's been a great decision. Nice when visitors comment on how realistic your track looks


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All
Seems opinion is running unanimously in favor of Code 250. Music to my ears. Thanks, guys.


Matt - I just checked St. Aubin website. This example is for straight track, brass rail:


Aristo 332, $302/72 ft = $4.19/ft AMS 250, $180/60 ft = $3.00/ft


Thank you again,

Dawg


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want to use aluminum & put the track together yourself you can do it for under $2.00 a foot. If you want to make and spike your own ties you can do it for about $1.00 a foot. Switches can be made for about $4.00 without the throw. With a throw and manufactured points and frog you can still make a switch for about $30-35. Even with brass when you assemble your own stuff you can keep costs lower. I know its not an option for everyone but if you can, it really helps. 

Terry


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