# I am a real neophyte.



## noela (May 22, 2008)

I am getting into working with metal stuff like axles, etc. My first project hopefully will be to get a machine that I can use to turn axles down on wheelsets so they can be installed in ball bearings. I am finding that these axles can vary quite a bit, but I am looking to try and get them to a "standard" of 2.5 mm, as I can locate a very good source of 2.5 mm ID ball bearings, relatively inexpensively. I have found however, that one of the manufacturers that I am using has their shaft between 2.61 and 2.69 mm, requiring some consistant work. This application will involve about 20 of my cars, and several other people have expressed an interest in this project. My thoughts go to a lathe, but like I said, I am really new at this, and am open to any suggestions and/or direction to get me started on thsi project.
TIA


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The quick and dirty solution - chuck the axle in a drill press and file/sand the axle ends down so they fit. 

Later, 

K


----------



## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I see in another thread, you plan to get a Sherline or Taig lathe. There are three things you can do. One is Kevin's idea of chucking up the axle and working it with a file. There is nothing wrong with hand filing on a lathe. Use a little oil for a smoother cut. Second thing is set up a "production run". The trick is to get the tool cut to the right depth and not change it. Get the cross slide setting right and don't change it. Just feed it longitudinally. On the short side you have to remove 0.11mm diameter which is about 0.004" That is one pass most likely. On the high side you need to remove 0.19mm or about 0.007". That's 2 passes for that thin diameter.

A third alternative is to combine methods. Production turn the axles to about 2.55mm and then clean up with a very fine file and oil. This is probably the best method. It is difficult to get a smooth finish on a small diameter on a lathe. It is difficult to get the tool height right and the lathe turning fast enough.


Do a lot of practice on scrap stock. 


I've used another method successfully to make axles. Use 3 pieces and assemble them. Cut and face a 40mm length of 5mm brass. 40mm is the back-to-back measurement for Gauge 1 wheels. Drill 2.5mm holes in the brass rods to a depth of 10mm to 12mm. Cut lengths of 2.5mm stainless steel, or regular steel rod and "loctite" them into the axle. You end up with a glass smooth bearing surface of the correct diameter. You might need to turn a shoulder on the 5mm brass rod to fit existing wheels. Just make sure you have 40mm back-to-back on the wheels.


Bob


----------



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob,

Get some various fine grits of crocus cloth--aluminum oxide cloth, I think it's called now--and you can polish the workpiece to your heart's content, or take off that final half-thou if you want.

Some old machinists say kerosene with above does even better for high-polish finishes. I never tried it.

Les


----------



## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

Yep, the old Machinist was correct.


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I just got my 112 bearings for a buck. I am ready to start mounting. Yup I have to turn down some axels. Kereosene and A/O cloth. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

Hang on just a tad: you need cutting oil to do the roughing-in, and down to the near finish. I seldom hear that cutting oil should be used on this board, and I worry about it. ALWAYS use cutting oil when putting tool to steel. I like sulfurated cutting oil best, but it's hard to find in small lots--a gallon would last the rest of my life, I think. (I like the smell best). But lightweight motor oil mixed with a tad of Kroil will do okay--the idea is to take the heat away from the cutting process by the evaporation of the cutting fluid, not for lubrication.

After you get your part down to ~ 0.001 or 2, of finished dia. then go for the 'polishing up'.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Les and others, 
You can get high sulfer cutting oil by the quart at Ace hdwr, at least I did 10 years ago... Still have most of it left, a litle goes a long way. I never cut steel without it. 

John


----------

