# McKeen Car Build



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry's posting of this very unusual car stirred my interest and gave me my next project. Talking to Bob of Robert's Lines he described the different body styles he was offering. I decided on the 'combine' version. It has the signature round windows and some slightly arch style windows. He also has trailing cars.
The body I received is made of ferris metal with welded floor, seats and ceiling braces. There are also brass hand rails , grab irons and head lamp housing. I used Bondo to fill the irregularities and primed it gray. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Very interesting prototype, should look good when complete.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you. Nice I hope, it doesn't have the detail that you create. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Next the roof: Using a piece of cedar I had on hand cut and sanded it to just slide into the car. Put iron on oak veneer around the perimeter where it sticks out of the car. It's the same thickness as the car body so it meets nicely. Drilled holes in the roof and using a piece of aluminum dowel found in the scrap box made securing pegs. Drilled and taped the bottom of them and drilled the car floor. (pic explains it better)(once painted black won't be so obvious) Then added another layer of 3/4" pine to bring it to the desired height. Made a guide and am now in the process of shaping the roof. LiG


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Yes Nick, Jerry tends to do this to us. What with his 8 foot Stirling single and his McKeen car, how can we keep up?
I also have one of these cars on my to-do list, when I have nothing else to do that is.
Look forward to watching your progress. 
Cheers.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Harvey, emailing Jerry he said he also wasn't going to start his any time soon. Since I was doing mine he didn't mind if I posted my progress. I hope to give those intending to do one some ideas. I sent Jerry my first two attempts at the roof build, this one is my third. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I think it will work out fine Nick. You could run a router around to do the edges, glue a thick piece of balsa to the center and sand it to match the edges, could work? I'll leave it up to you. I have other projects, but don't seem to work on them much anymore.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I did one similar to what you described, but didn't add the balas so mine had a tendency to wobble and and not set deep enough into the shell to be secure, pic. I also attached the other attempt where I used the laminate over the shell. Didn't like the look of that. The one I'm doing now looks like how it will be, but I have one more step before I'm sure. LiG
EDIT: while preparing it for the next step, saw a glaring mis match that I don't know how I got this far without seeing. I think I was preoccupied with the contour and shape. Have to go back a couple of steps to make this right. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I was very happy with the compound contour of the nose and shape of the body. Gave it a dusting of primer to make sure all was flat and smooth. I wanted to Harden the surface and was undecided using either Poluyurethane or Polyester Finishing Resin. I mixed the resin and gave it a nice coat. What was in the pot and stirring stick hardened within 2 hours as it is supposed to. What is on the roof is different story. 24 hours later and it hasn't hardened in several areas. In some areas it has wrinkled. In one area it seemed to lift so I pulled it and a strip peeled off. Only thing I can come up with is the resin had a bad reaction to the primer?. So I'm going to start the roof all over again. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Use metal duct tape to seal it.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, thanks Bob recommended I do it that way also. As the pic shows I've already started on the new roof. This time I drilled and tapped 1/4" aluminum rod instead of the 1/2", found it at Home Depot. While the epoxy hardens on the posts I started working on the doors. Blue print shows some have 2 separate doors In the openings with half a port hole in each side, should be fun making them. LiG
EDIT: tried to edit this last night but lost my connection due to the storm: I found the older roof has finally hardened so along with the new one I'm going to sand it and see what it looks like. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I could buy the other one!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I'm flattered, but I wouldn't sell it. Still messing with both of them.. This is my third attempt at the freight door. The extreme heat is giving me a lot of inside time so may get the two passenger doors done, same look. The motorman's entrance is a different configuration. LiG


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe looking something akin to this McKeen Motor Car when your finished should be really really great. What color do you plan?


This is at the Nevada State Railroad Museum and they offer rides.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, I saw a rough pic of one that was lettered for Erie, more red. I like the gold stripe on the bottom and saw one with a similar strip at the roof line, may do that. Since it was so hot out yesterday I got the doors almost finished, still need to cut the seams between the double doors. There were several styles so I picked what Iliked. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, thank you. Trying to salvage the first roof or learn why it happened. Gave it a nice sanding to remove all the irregularities and wrinkles. Yesterday I mixed another batch of finishing resin. Same results. The pics show wrinkles in some areas and not in others that have the same finish, either primed or bare wood. And a couple of small areas are still tacky. The pot, brush and stirring stick are hard and smooth as is the nose of the roof. Any thoughts will be appreciated. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I started shaping the second roof, still needs more work. The windows were covered as I gave the interior a coat of fresh paint. Think I found the motor man in my box of 1:29 people. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

After several prime, sand, prime again, sand again, etc. finally got #2 roof where I want it. Smooth and NO irregularities. Now to add to it's signature look with all those roof vents. Still making progress on #1. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Great job on the roof. Smooooth.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you. Took several tries to get it that way. every time I thought I had it, prime it and in the sunshine I could see high areas. Used 400 grit to bring them down. Really happy with the look, hopping I don't mess it up installing the roof attachments. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob Thon of Robert's Lines sent me a copy of a receipt for roof vents he purchased in 2010. Did some research and found a descendent of the original owner and he is still in business. He makes parts for Pre War Lionel trains ( [email protected] ) and the parts are actually listed as Tool Boxes. Received them and they are beautiful and will only need minor modification to comply with the roof contour. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The front truck of the 1:1 McKeen had two different size wheels, front set was 42" dia and the rear set was 33".
Found large wheels in parts box. Disassembled a USAT axle that the gear shaft had cracked. removed the wheels, centered and epoxied the larger wheels to the axcle halves. Used a piece of plastic tubing in place of the broken gear and shaft. For the rear set I used another set of broken gear wheels, just replaced the gear assembly with plastic tubing. Used an Aristocraft Heavyweight 2 axle truck. Moved the power pick up so they both are on the same axle as the larger wheels are also thicker, properly gauged the wheels. Modified the side frames and added a fly wheel. Not too bad at a distance. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The Mckeen bug bit me. Received another body, this one is all passenger. Bob of Robert's Lines explained they are hand assembled so there are minor differences from one to another. This one the top width was a bit different from the floor and different from the top of the other one. Simple fix to widen the body at the top, sides are now 90' to the floor. The first roof now fits with minor adjustment to the nose. I tried epoxy on the supports but stressing made the connections fail. I soldered them with high tin content solder and acid flux. Now filling in the weld dimples to bring this one up to the combine. Once that's done I can go further on both at the same time. Bob also mentioned there may be 100 different versions of the McKeen LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

This one came with a casting for a roof mounted head lamp, but I preferred the nose lamp. Found a piece of 5/16" brass tubing. Opened the nose and using a pencil to align the fixture adhered it using Bondo. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> This one came with a casting for a roof mounted head lamp, but I preferred the nose lamp. Found a piece of 5/16" brass tubing. Opened the nose and using a pencil to align the fixture adhered it using Bondo. LiG



looks good but my favorite is the port hole one


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The port hole is my favorite too, it is that one. All that I am aware of have the motorman's windows square. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Purchased a used Aristo FB unit for the power trucks, forum posting falsely stated LIKE NEW. Repaired broken axle/gear assembly to fix sever wheel wobble. Modified side frames to better match trucks of that period, painted grey. I like the height of the Aristo truck a bit better than the USAT, but the Aristo dies look a little big. Will have to decide which to use, or a combination of both. Pic shows Aristo front and USAT rear. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Temporarly attached trucks and made a test run. 



. hope it works this time. 
LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, looking good but is it really that high off the trucks? looks cool running it is the doodleist doodle bug I've ever seen


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, yes it is. Had to size the trucks to the pilot doesn't short the track. The USAT trucks are smaller than the Aristo, yet the Aristo hold the car higher off the rail. On the 1:1 McKeen the rear truck was smaller as the front was the driving truck with the engine mounted just above it. Since the Aristo are bulkier (pic) they fill more space under the car. Still a work in progress as in my past train projects I've been known to totally change direction in the middle. Also I strayed from the original design as my rear truck is the actual driving truck. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

McKeen Combine: Power truck alone ran very smoothly. With the added weight of the car, 4lb 3oz, the second trip through a turnout in reverse the axle slipped out of the side frame. Since I mated the USAT power brick and support bracket with Aristo Heavyweight side frames the frames were further from the brick than the USAT and the axles weren't as deep as if it had the original sides. I narrowed the support bracket 1.5mm on each side, can barely see the difference between the left, stock, and right, modified sides. Not trusting adhesive I used 0-80 screws to hold it together. I also added thrust bearings (McMaster Carr) between the trucks and car bottoms. The support bracket on the rear truck was brought to my attention, so all supports are now painted black. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Drilled the floor and installed jumper wires so the front truck is also power pick up, may remove the sliders in the future. Used liquid tape to stop abrasion of the wires. Also put rain diverters over the doors.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Passenger car: I am using Aristocraft powered trucks on this one, fore and aft. Since they have a rounded riding surface on them I'm not using thrust bearings. adhered a piece of plastic to the bottom for them to ride on. As you can see I already drilled for the wires passing through and insulated with liquid tape, this time I also added shrink wrap to the wires. After I took the pics I painted the bottom leaving a circle unpainted where the trucks will ride. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Being that high off trucks might be a result of "Temporarly attached trucks and ..."


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

And for anyone who doesn't already know of it this website may be of interest, https://mckeencar.com/gallery/history-of-the-mckeen-motor-car/


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: if you are talking about the passenger McKeen yes just laid on the trucks. will actually sit 5mm lower. The Combine is where it is for now, also to be considered is the pilot, still must clear the rails to avoid shorts. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: I most like the pic of the short McKeen, looks like a nice project that can be built on a trolly motor/frame.
While looking at the cars I am building, something seemed to be missing?? The area under the car where the center doors and steps are. Copying the Aristocraft design I assembled a couple of boxes from left over plastic that will be screwed to the bottom of the cars. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made changes: found a nice rendition of a McKeen used on the Erie RR, one I wanted to model. Removed the rear Aristo power truck. Modified a USAT power truck mounting bracket to fit onto a standard freight truck with power pic ups. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

And the progress keeps adding up!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I appreciate all comments, that is how I strive to make a better model. I decided to see if I could lower the body on the Combine to more hide the bolsters. I was able to take the car down 2.5mm, which still gave the pilot just under 2mm of clearance. Also took out some of the side to side rocking to further keep the pilot off the rails. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

In previous post I mentioned my fear of keeping the pilot clear of the rails so as not to cause a short circuit. On another forum I was advised to isulate it. I ground it flat then removed .040. Using epoxy adhered a piece of .015 styrene to the bottom. After it fully cures I will sand it to the shape of the pilot. LiG.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> In previous post I mentioned my fear of keeping the pilot clear of the rails so as not to cause a short circuit. On another forum I was advised to isulate it. I ground it flat then removed .040. Using epoxy adhered a piece of .015 styrene to the bottom. After it fully cures I will sand it to the shape of the pilot. LiG.


Just keeps getting better


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you. Goal is to make is as best as I can. . LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Passenger: Fashioned and attached doors. Holding further enhancements , Bob Thon of Robert's lInes sent me a few pages of a book he has about the McKeen's. I did a search and found "1972 reproduction of a 1912 publication". Anxious anticipation. LiG. 






sorry for the cut and paste, just couldn't seem to figure out how I did it last time.

Edit: fixed the embed - Dwight


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Nick Jr said:


> Anxious anticipation.


 None of that apathetic anticipation here, eh!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Dang, sorry, I tried to embed


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: eyes pressed up against the window looking for mail carrier as it is supposed to be delivered TODAY.
John, you are about to get a PM. thank you. LiG


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick - I went to your video page, clicked "Share" and copied the resulting URL, then replaced yours with Youtubes.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. You have a PMs. LiG


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> Dwight, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. You have a PM. LiG


You're welcome. No PM that I can find.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Guess I got that wrong too. I found the old 'address' no longer worked, so went to UTube and copied the new one and it popped up on the other forum. I better print out what to do so I don't mess it up again. THANK YOU AGAIN. LiG


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick - my direct email address is dwight-dot-ennis-at-npcrr-dot-com. Or you can find me on Facebook under my name, "Dwight Ennis"


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, thank you. LiG.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Tanks: The book described a fuel tank and 2 air tanks, all of the same diameter. Used PVC pipe, 1/4" tubing, Bondo and 4/40 screws. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Was getting ready to paint the trucks Dark Olive Green as the manufacturer brochure states. Realized the Aristocraft power truck I am using has sealed roller bearing journals. The correct journals would be the square type. Found a discarded freight truck, cut the covers off, adhered them to the ends and filled in around to square off the journal. Much happier with the look. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

"Ventilating that permits a complete change of air every 4 minutes. Air intakes on the car forward roof directs air to the floor, exhausted by ventilators on the roof.". Taped a piece of emery to a pipe about curve of the roof to shape the bottom of the vents. This is the approximate location of them on a 55ft car. Some pics show a round device on the forward right side, I think it is a bell, but it is painted which gives me a doubt. Also saw one with a horn looking device on the front roof. Once I decide the locations are OK I'll fill in the counter sunk screw holes and paint the roof. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> "Ventilating that permits a complete change of air every 4 minutes. Air intakes on the car forward roof directs air to the floor, exhausted by ventilators on the roof.". Taped a piece of emery to a pipe about curve of the roof to shape the bottom of the vents. This is the approximate location of them on a 55ft car. Some pics show a round device on the forward right side, I think it is a bell, but it is painted which gives me a doubt. Also saw one with a horn looking device on the front roof. Once I decide the locations are OK I'll fill in the counter sunk screw holes and paint the roof. LiG


Excellent!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Lookin' gooder and gooder all the time, Nick..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill and Stan, thank you for the encouragement. Stan will need your services again in a little while. LiG


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> Bill and Stan, thank you for the encouragement. Stan will need your services again in a little while. LiG


Sounds good, Nick... Should be fun...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Book states that water circulation is provided for cooling the engine and also heating the compartment. The drawings don't show it and the old pics are too vague. Pics of refurbished units clearly show the cooling coils and fan. This is about as close as I could get. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

That looks good to me. I'm enjoying this build as much as the others.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Totalwrecker said:


> That looks good to me. I'm enjoying this build as much as the others.


 Nick, your attention to detail is mind boggling, beautiful work, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you, I'm glad to be sharing my joy
Bill, I have time and plenty of scrap stuff for the detail, just adds to the fun. Life is Good


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

As mentioned none of the diagrams showed the cooling fixture. I originally placed the front truck by scaling the drawing. With the cooling fixture added I felt it was too close to the front truck to allow for proper cooling and I just didn't like 'the look'. Moved the power truck 20mm forward, now looks more like recent photos, liking 'the look' much better. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> As mentioned none of the diagrams showed the cooling fixture. I originally placed the front truck by scaling the drawing. With the cooling fixture added I felt it was too close to the front truck to allow for proper cooling and I just didn't like 'the look'. Moved the power truck 20mm forward, now looks more like recent photos, liking 'the look' much better. LiG


Well it shows up much better, I like it there


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, you have a PM. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

In a city where I used to live a couple decades ago I had a friend who designed machinery for factories, he said _"That looks about right"_ decides far more engineering matters than the public will ever know.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: funny as that sounds I have no doubt your friend is spot on. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15, another adjustment for 'the look'. Moved the air tanks fwd 10mm. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Found I didn't order enough 'tool boxes' that I modified for the roof vents. After trial and error finally made a good mold. Tried using the Micro Mark casting product that I have used in the past, but it evidentially expired. I have cast parts for live steamers using JB Weld, so that's what I did again, now have enough vents for the Combine. Hoping the hobby shop received more #2 screws so I can secure them. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Found I didn't order enough 'tool boxes' that I modified for the roof vents. After trial and error finally made a good mold. Tried using the Micro Mark casting product that I have used in the past, but it evidentially expired. I have cast parts for live steamers using JB Weld, so that's what I did again, now have enough vents for the Combine. Hoping the hobby shop received more #2 screws so I can secure them. LiG


Nick what type screws are you using most of, (picture) have a great nut and bolt store here that I get my 2/56 ones from and here is a link that one of the guys on LSC uses https://www.microfasteners.com/


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I was using DU-BRO cat. no. 381. No. 2 X 1/2" Socket Head Sheet Metal Screws. Hobby shop didn't get them in and won't for another 2 weeks. Have plenty of the larger head screws that come with servos. Carefully drilled depression on the vents and just finished securing them. Waiting for the JB filler to cure so I can paint this roof. Thank you for the web site, didn't see that a one this morning when I was looking, but will keep it in mind for next time. LiG
EDIT: Bill, checked out that site, $7.XX for 100 pieces of the exact same screws that I paid $2.25 for 8. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Finished the other roof, painted this one engine enamel low gloss black. I think the maroon needs to be darker. Now more detail. LiG


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

They turned out nice!

Jason


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, thank you. Yesterday was mostly to catch the sun on the paint and see the front truck swing for clearance. LiG


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Continuing to look great, Nick....


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you Stan, trying to find another local shop that carries brass, existing one sin't refilling the display. LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

I think both True Value and Ace hardware stores carry the K&S metal shapes. Try one of those if they are local to you.

Keep Trackin',
David Meashey


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> Thank you Stan, trying to find another local shop that carries brass, existing one sin't refilling the display. LiG


Why not just order direct?

http://ksmetals.com/

Amazon also carries some of their product line.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

*color*



Nick Jr said:


> Finished the other roof, painted this one engine enamel low gloss black. I think the maroon needs to be darker. Now more detail. LiG



Well I love the red


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you. The red did come out nice and even, but I am striving for a maroon more like the photo's. After looking at several hobby shops and craft stores I found none darker, will try auto store next, but afraid the auto paint may wrinkle what's on there now. I dull coated it and it did knock down some of the red and most of the shine. waiting for a sunny day to compare. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

I know Krylon makes a rattle can color in there Fusion line called Gloss Burgundy, deep, rich burgundy


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you. I brought the can top which is the color, matched it with the Krylon line and it is exactly the same as the Burgundy. I've had trouble mixing their Fusion line with other brand paints, usually wrinkled. The dull coat did improve it some. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Were these cars made in different lengths? The one I saw at the Nevada State RR Museum is quite a bit longer, 12 windows (I think) behind the door. Very interesting machine! Your model is coming along very nicely.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, yes the majority of the McKeens were either 70' or 55' long. According to the book there were also 32' eight wheeled trailing cars that carried an additional 58 passengesr and a 32' four wheeled freight/mail car, both designed for use behind the 55' cars. It appears both the 55' and 70' cars had the same engine. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made the steps for the Motorman's door. As you can see I shortened the journal boxes for additional clearance. The freight door has a single step, easier.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, you sure do nice detailed work, you skills are amazing, I would never in a million years take a picture of the under side of my builds, thought is out of site out of mind, LOL


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, I am just having fun. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I mentioned in an earlier post about what I thought may have been a bell on the roof of one but it was painted same color as the roof. I decided to put a bell on one. I remember round bells in school that were painted to match the walls. To me a train bell must be bare brass, so here it is. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

All pics I have seen the round windows seem to be 'bumped out' just a little, they open and secure same sas ships portholes. Made a gauge to cut the length and a depth gauge so the bump is the same all the way around. The book only shows square windows for the Motorman, and they seem to slide open. Now need to paint this one to see how the bump comes out. Have a vague pic of an Erie car, looks like a Red/Pink color. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Coming along very nicely mate.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you. Now going to order watch crystals for the round windows. If anyone has any suggestions on another way to get the bump, and still have depressed windows I appreciate them. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, only have the roofs painted so far, and still not thrilled with the 'maroon' one. Working on the Erie, getting it masked ready for painting. I ordered window glass, but forgot about the paint thickness. Going to see if I can either cancel and re-order after paint as they are measured right down to the .1 mm. LiG
EDIT: the moroon looks darker in person than in pics, is that possible??


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> EDIT: the moroon looks darker in person than in pics, is that possible??


Why not? The 'thing' that took the pic analysed the light and decided what color to save, then the 'thing' you viewed it on also made its own judgement about the color.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, I feel a little better about the existing look, just wish I could convey how ir really looks. Actually seems like it is getting darker over time. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I did cancel the original order and re-measured the windows. Ordered the crystals, very easy on their web site. Received them yesterday, packed very well. Made a gauge so they all at the same depth and even all the way around. This one only has 10 round windows, all the rest are squared, so far 2 are in. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Looks good Nick


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you Bill, I'm very lucky, havin' fun. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Thank you Bill, I'm very lucky, havin' fun. LiG


You and me both after what I've been through I'm surprised I'm still here, life is good. I changed the rope on my bell it was too small because I used too small a gauge wire but happy with the new results. Still waiting on a battery to test the R/C system might go out and try and find 1 tomorrow so I can get this thing buttoned up. Think if I change the bogie mount in the tender section I might be able to get the whole system in the tender shell, hoping for the best, t







ill then be safe, BB


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I like the rope look, and thank you for sharing how you did it. LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Nick and Bill;

The wife takes me along to the fabric shop a lot, cause I'm good at matching shades of fabric with a thread for sewing the stuff. Anyway, just thought I would mention that there is a thicker kind of thread called "buttonhole twist." It makes goot whistle & bell rope.

Have fun,
David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, thank you for the tip, will check it out. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Nick Jr said:


> Bill, only have the roofs painted so far, and still not thrilled with the 'maroon' one. Working on the Erie, getting it masked ready for painting. I ordered window glass, but forgot about the paint thickness. Going to see if I can either cancel and re-order after paint as they are measured right down to the .1 mm. LiG
> EDIT: the moroon looks darker in person than in pics, is that possible??


Color shift can also be caused by your lighting. I had one shop light that drove me crazy.
I now take all pics to be published outdoors under natural light, which is pretty much a constant.

Keep at it, they are coming along nicely.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you for the encouragement, I am having fun. The color does seem to be darkening. I did learn something when painting the Passenger car, Additional coat of paint, after the first one fully cures will darken it. I started this one as a red, second coat almost the maroon, that I wasn't trying for. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I got carried away with putting in the windows and did them all. Forgot about the gold piping and the decals which will need a covering of clear coat. Using a coin as a template cut tape to cover the round and removed the square windows. Found very nice gold striping at hobby shop and applied it, never used it before, do like it. In communication with Stan about the decals. While disappointed in myself, still havin' fun. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a book that shows McKeen also produced 32' trailing cars that were used for additional passengers or "Baggage, Mail and Expressl". The passenger cars were eight wheel configured and the express had either four or eight wheels. .Decided to put a coupler on the back of this one in hopes of scratch building one in the future. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Found the coupler was much too high, lowered it so it matched the rest of the fleet, found the coupler rod to the truck was blaring. Saw a rendition of an Erie car that had a 'skirt' around the rear. A much better look. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Decals by Stan Cedarleaf, follow his instructions and have never had a problem. Whole body dull coated. LiG


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Nice looking! Now it’s coming together. Decals make all the difference.

Jason


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

As simple as they are, Nick the decals do add a very, very nice touch... 

Super job...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, Stan, thank you. The details really bring out a model, here's another one. Jerry Barnes directed me to ModelTrainsSoftware.com, they supply lighting for models. The LED with the bridge rectifier and limiting resistor was cheaper than I used to purchase seperate parts and make my own. The trim ring was the hardest part of the light. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Square windows put back in, accessories and roof put back on and I believe this one is finished. The other is somewhat behind this one and will now continue with it. I'll only post the finished product as you've already seen the process. Thank You. Life is Good


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great Nick!! Nice job!!


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Square windows put back in, accessories and roof put back on and I believe this one is finished. The other is somewhat behind this one and will now continue with it. I'll only post the finished product as you've already seen the process. Thank You. Life is Good


came out great, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, Bill, thank you very much. Life is Good


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Lookin' gooder and gooder all the time, Nick..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you Stan. Learned some lessons to make this one even better. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Great job mate, looks fantastic.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you very much. Life is Good


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Very nice job, from a shell to a fine car. 
Congratulations.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, hope the bobo is working out ok, some times paint is very troublesome, looking forward to pictures, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is the final look of the McKeen 55ft Pasenger Car,
Now will attempt to build a trailer car. I haven't found any pics, only mechanical drawings. Two are described: 31 FOOT PASSENGER TRAILER which is much the same over all look as the motorized ones, has 4 wheel trucks. BAGGAGE, MAIL AND EXPRESS 31 FOOT STEEL TRAILER, this is depicted with either 4 or 2 wheel trucks. I don't know if any were ever made. If anyone finds pics please post them, thank you. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, your attention to detail is amazing, great looking model, Bill


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Turned out really nice!!!

Jason


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, thank you. Bill, Old Joe has much more detail than McKeen. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Am sure there is someone out there with pics. Bound to be a fan of a now defunct railroad that has them or try the Kalmbach Publishing group they would have a archive of thousands of historical pics.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you. Choochoo willie sent me a couple that he found, can't wait to start on that. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Started the McKeen Trailer. Using 2mm thick polystyrene sheets cut strips the height of the car. Using a tin can and heat gun formed the ends. Cut the shape of the car floor from a pine board. That's all so far. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Laid out on the floor locations for doors. Cut the sides so the seams would be behind the largest door on each side. 
Rough cut the blanks for the roof same as on the 55' cars. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick, please stop working so much! Making me feel guilty. Looking good guy


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Just keep getting better


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, Bill thank you very much. If I wasn't having so much fun wouldn't spend so much time at it. LiG


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Nick,
I attach what I assume is a McKeen car and trailer, although the caption does not say so.
Anyway, it may help you.
Interesting that it is sandwiched between two power cars.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, That is the one I am building. Good pic of the roof and my first pic of the 4 wheel car.THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I'm not sure of the wheel arrangement I was going to use, but this one is very odd and interesting LIG


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Nick,
I'm sure that you already found this website and page, and it does have a couple more photos of your trailer car.
Love? that four wheel undercarriage.
https://tinyurl.com/u934pzl
Cheers,
David


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, I found many sites but very few with pics of the trailers, and did not come across those pics. I very much appreciate you posting the link so I could get up close pics of it, From your pic on the forum I thought it may be a book you had and was going to PM you for the title so I could research it. Yes I am becoming more and more attracted to that undercarriage, should be fun to try to re-produce it. The book I have only has the mechanical drawings of the car and the optional interiors but no detail of the trucks offered. THANK YOU AGAIN. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ran a straight edge down the sides and found some minor distortions from the heat. Hobby shop recommended Squadron Products Gray Putty, very easy to use, no mixing, hardened in about half hour and fairly easy sanding. 
LiG


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job Nick. Later RJD


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

RJ, thank you, much appreciated. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Cut the first two oval shaped windows and installed the frames. In doing so found out that a large area of that side apparently wasn't. prepared properly for the primer. Other areas may show up as I cut openings for the other windows. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, would be very interested in knowing how you cut such perfect ovals, when you can, looking great as always, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, I used a Dremel to get the rough cut then a small half round file. The trim and filler hides all the imperfections and the paint will hide the rest. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Was a nice day yesterday so brought some power tools outside and rough shaped the roof. Realized making the roof of the same wood as the previous cars mede it very top heavy as this one is primarily plastic. Cut out the centers of the aligning base and the first 1" layer of roof, lightened it up by 13oz. Finishing shape will be done by hand using the same guide as the others. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Forgot to mention: I plumbed and re-shaped the left oval window, wasn't happy with like the look. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm trying something different with the doors. Made them separately with frame surrounding the door and frame surrounding the window opening. Marked locations and removed the area on the car where the clear will ultimately go inside. So far so good.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> I'm trying something different with the doors. Made them separately with frame surrounding the door and frame surrounding the window opening. Marked locations and removed the area on the car where the clear will ultimately go inside. So far so good.


Looks great, another master piece in the making


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thanks, masterpiece?? not so sure about that but I am having fun. LiG


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## Lydia56^^J (Jan 18, 2020)

At the 2016 NGRC a couple friends were offering 3D printed McKeens, both 55' and 70' cab unit plus the trailer in 1:32. Mechanicals were made by MMR Kermit Paul, body mostly by Eric Moe. I've yet to paint mine as I'm waiting for my trailer, but it runs very smooth and the power truck is amazing with the big flywheel on the side. I'm currently building a model of the Super Chief diner in Carson City which was, for a time, Virginia and Truckee #22.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Lydia, would you post some pic's please, love to see it. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

While aligning the parts, (should have done it long before now) realized I had left out this important part of the build in the previous posts. Matching the roof and the body of the car so it flows as one at any angle and in critical sun light. First and third are looking down the length of the car. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Well from here it doesn't look like it can get any straighter


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Coming along very nicely there mate


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, Scott, thank you very much. Progress at this point is very slow. Jerry is teaching me a method to make panels with rivets using foil tape and a pounce wheel,. All new to me so I expect some trial and error before actually applying them to the car. LiG.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Sounds interesting will be waiting to hear about it


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I made very little forward motion on the car, but it was an OUTSTANDING week on the bench. Learned how to use a pounce wheel on foil tape to make rivets. Not leaving well enough alone I got some .005 thick plastic to try out. Got one of those green mats I see in pics of others work benches. Tried the wheel on the plastic with the mat and wasn't happy with the depth of the rivets, Used a piece of balsa wood under the plastic and got some very nice rivets. Sanded the primed car in the areas that I am going to put lines of rivets. This morning I heard from choochoowilly, (he really should post more of his creations) and he sent me a link to Archer that makes decal rivets in many sizes and designs. Now deciding which ones to order so I can see them and compare with the strips I made. LiG
BTW, mat states "self healing", now that is something I want to see.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

After much fooling around I decided on using the pounce wheel on .005 thick styrene. Tested several materials as backing and decided Balsa wood gave me the effect and depth I was looking for. Have a long way to go, all the areas in the previous photo stripped of primer need rivets. And the strips need to have filler along the seams and sanded to better blend with the car. Time and patience will tell. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good Nick. I think I'll stick with the foil, since I've used it a lot on different trains. Plastic will give you a smoother metal I think, it's a good idea I never thought of. No hobby shops around, so would have to order the plastic and I'm lazy. . Foil gives a bit of a wavy look, but sometimes wrinkles also.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I am fortunate, Stevens International warehouse and adjoining Hobby shop is just a short ride from the house and can get mostly anything. I can see various applications where a wavy look would be desireable. Since the whole procedure is new to me I enjoyed trying different thickness and backings. Without your suggestion of the pounce wheel none of this would be happening, thank you again. LiG


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry Barnes said:


> No hobby shops around, so would have to order the plastic and I'm lazy.


Amazon. If you're a Prime member, you get everything with free 1-2 day shipping.  That's pretty much what I do now on everything from hobby supplies to cat litter to Alka-Seltzer. I just buy it from Amazon and I never have to leave my house. LOL!! As Nick would say... life is good!! Prime also streams movies like NetFlix does.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, I live just over the bridge from Philly, so close to Amazon warehouses in PA and NJ. When I order I pick regular shipping, and now with their own trucks I always get it in two days. Probably not so in less congested areas. Stay Well. and. YES Life is Good


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, I am a Prime member and order a lot, did get a few sheets awhile back so have some. Amazing all the stuff they sell. Still try to buy local, if I can.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made some rough progress. Adhered the rivet strips in place. After the solvent dries need to fill in the spaces and seams. I figured if I didn't like the look, could easily just sand them off and still have a nice smooth side. Time and patience will tell. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Picking up from my last posting: pics say it all:


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick it is looking good rivets came out nice, BB


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I take it that you didn't like the rivets and sanded them off? I am probably much help as every model that I have made with rivets each entire panel had rivets so there were no edges to deal with except the edges of actual panels. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you. Good luck coming up with a solution, I hope someone is more help than I.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I did like the look of the actual rivets, just not the raised strips they were on. I already tried to blend with the rest of the car, In areas that did blend was still not happy with the look as it was raised. . 
Winn, yes, it was the edges that I thought took away from the whole look. Jerry has had success with foil tape, and I experimented with that early on. Not sure which direction 'm going in right now. All suggestions will be appreciated. BTW, much easier to sand off than I had anticipated. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

I'm surprised that the archer rivets didn't look good, I believe I got the biggest ones they had when I did my sand tank and the showed up good


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I received a sheet of the Archer rivets. Measured them and the rivets them selves came out to .003 thick. Emailed them and they said all their rivets no matter what the design or scale offered were the same thickness. Judging from the ones I made from the pounce wheel on the foil or plastic I wanted .007 minimum. Using the .005 thick styrene got nice .007 to .010 rivets depending on the backing I used under the foil or plastic. I haven't given up yet. Bringing the whole car back to fresh so what ever I use the first failure won't add to the problem. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick the half sided beads that I use measure 2 mm so height would be 1 mm or about .04 probably bigger than you need


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,yes much bigger, these are very small., also hoping to reproduce something close to the odd wheel assembly. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

There is a guy on youtube using sprinkles, candy you sprinkle on cakes, cuts them in half, look pretty small


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I'm sure I don't have the sight or dexterity to cut them in half, and if I could would need more patience than I have to line line up, properly space and adhere at least a thousand of them. Got a test of foil tape on a scrap piece of plastic, some with putty on the seam some not. Will know better tomorrow. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

good luck, check this out neat video of McKeen car running, strange undercarriage color sort of a aluminum primer green (



)


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, according to the book I have: "The exterior is finished in maroon, and striped gold, while the trucks are finished in dark olive". Does't show up in the light of the pic, but these are what the can described as Dark Olive. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Wont say that the video shows "dark" olive thought it looked more like the aluminum air craft primer paint but it could be lighting that changes it, I would go by what your historical book says, and you are correct it doesn't show in you pictures, maybe when you get it out in the light it will show up better, anyway it is a nice contract with all the different colors, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, same camera that didn't show the maroon very well.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I started putting foil on mine. Had to peel off a few that didn't go well. Think I'll cut off the handles and put some back on later.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, glad you are making progress, Maybe a good hot iron to just melt the solder rather than cutting them off?? My test piece using foil and putty came out much better, so tomorrow I may start forming rivet strips. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

After several failed attempts making rivet strips of both styrene and metal foil, took Jerry's original advice of using whole sections of foil with the rivets embossed in the proper places. After two failed attempts at lining up the rivet lines realized I needed a template so each sections rivets aligned. I think I finally got a working procedure and will have my first car with rivets. JERRY. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOUR GUIDANCE. LiG
Seam lines will be filled and disappear under paint.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Just finished the foil rivets, learned I have patience in reserve I didn't know. I'm sure I wasted more foil than is on the car. Filled and sanded the seams. After I finished one side of the car I covered it in bubble wrap so when working on the other wouldn't flatten the rivets. To be especially careful when painting considering using the Tamya cans, I was told the spray is finer than the large rattle cans, and I don't want to bury the rivets in paint, haven't air brushed in years and haven't totally ruled it out. LiG


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Looks good! Foiled the whole side to blend better? Or just putty filled?


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

don't know how you did it but it looks good


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, Nick... Lookin' gooder all the time...........


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

ddrum31, full sections of foil, only filled at the seams.
Bill, still not sure myself, hut here it is.
Stan, going to scan a pic to give you an idea of the lettering on this one, still need to determine the size. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Wasn't sure I'd ever get to this point: Gave it a coat of paint, happy with the look, couple of the seams need a little more attention. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking really good Nick.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm glad you went for the sheets instead of the strips. It looks great.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, Winn, thank you very much. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

what you might say is iron clad!


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Nick Jr said:


> also hoping to reproduce something close to the odd wheel assembly. LiG


 That truss detail would add a lot of visual interest to the model.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15, that's what I'm after, hoping I can pull it off. I over sprayed with a green just a little lighter than the previous pics, Now to get the request over to Stan for the decals. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

And once again Stan's beautiful decals add finishing touches to the build. Still needs a light coat of clear. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, it looks great as usual


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Coming along just great, Nick...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, Stan, thank you very much. Still have that a odd wheel set and roof to finish. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made rivet panels for the roof using the same procedure as I did for the sides. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

amazing you were able to get that foil tape to go around those curves, very nice, BB


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Nick,
That roof looks great.
Well done.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

Beautiful work on the roof. I hate to confess this, but when I look at that roof, something in my brain keeps saying "Airstream camper."

All the best, David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

very nice getting the compound curves to lay flat, impressive.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good, Nick. What kind of foil did you use? I have used aluminum duct tape which is self adhesive and worked quite well. I did have trouble making the paint adhere. You may want to try some samples before tackling the whole car. Keep up the good work!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill & John: the tape is surprisingly forgiving, can stretch just a little and the small wrinkles are rolled out using the aluminum handle of the pounce wheel, will also flatten the rivets if not careful. Also used a Qtip on the seams between rivet lines.
David L: thank you
Dave M: now that you mention it, does look like those beautiful trailers. a little tug inside me wants to keep it shiny.
Winn: I actually found this roll while running cable through the ceiling of a building, sitting on an air duct, probably 25 years ago. The inside of the roll is printed what looks like a lower case I followed by the name 'intertape', was probably left there by one of the 'tin knockers'. Paint: I used Tamiya on the body, but it seems like it chips off easily. I tested the Rust-oleum 2X primer on a piece of scrap and it seems to adhere better. I don't want to use too much primer or paint so as not to bury the rivets. 
All suggestions will be greatly appreciated. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

You might try washing it with soap and water or alcohol or maybe mineral spirits in case there is something on it that keeps the paint from sticking properly.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, I like the idea of alcohol to get the skin oils off it and maybe a quick rub with white vinegar too. Then just a dusting of primer. Still need to put on the roof vents and what looks like a smoke stack on the MAIL end of the roof. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

I've had good luck using Dawn dish soap doesn't seem to leave any residue, Bill


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you. I have also used diluted dish liquid on some things with success. I am hesitant to use anything with water on this as the underlying material of the roof is wood. I don't want it absorbing water and swelling in areas. Maybe I'm just being too careful. LiG.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Roof detail is much less than the full sized car. The stove pipe leads one to believe mail may be sorted between runs. The pipe is a piece of 3/8 dowel chucked in a drill and a file made the shape, the rest came out to the scrap box. That is not the finish color of the roof. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Excellent job


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, next step will be the windows. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

A small but I thought interesting detail I saw in one pic was security bars across all the windows, so I added them.
LiG


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Very nice Nick.
Good touch.
How is the chassis coming along?
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, thank you. I THINK I've roughly figured out how to make it so the support frame is hidden and only the journal support shows as in the pics, I also have to make it strong so would like to use screws instead of adhesive. Also have to use only what I have on hand as Jersey now has mandated quarantine, I think I do. LiG.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

The bars add a nice touch.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I agree with Jerry, the bars make me want to ship something with you!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry Barnes said:


> The bars add a nice touch.




They sure add a most interesting touch to the model... Great job..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, John & Stan, thank you for the words of encouragement. 
David, I cut the basic frame of the chassis yesterday and hope to make more progress on it today. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, here is the rolling chassis. The side frames are from a narrow gauge scratch built car that was never completed. I cut off the center nut casting, drilled and put a screw and nut to more secure it to the frame. The BB wheels were the only two in the spare box and the frame is cedar scraps. It needs much more detail like leaf springs and that huge joining beam. It appears to be very high off the track, but I made the frame so the bottom of the trailer is same height as the cars. All suggestions appreciated. LiG
EDIT: after looking at the pic, think I'll turn the screw around so the nut is on the outside to match.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Nick,
I think that it's important that it lines up with the motor car.
The real one looked awfully high off the ground.
Well done using what you have.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, thank you. It does look very high off the ground. According to the book it has the same 33 inch wheel diameter as the 55 and 70ft cars. Maybe because there is nothing else under the car and so much space between the wheels???. I do like the look with the nut on the outside even though it is bigger I think it will blend better than the screw head when painted. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made some progress on the chassis. Wish I had better pics of the undercarriage. The rivets are Grandt Line I found in the parts drawer. LiG


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Very nice.
I always reckon if I can't find details about something being modelled, then it is unlikely anyone will point out errors or question it!
The rivets look great, and again great that you are making use of what you have.
Cheers,
David


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, thank you. Guess I'll have to get creative. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I was able to see what I thought were leaf springs on one side of the journal. On the other side could make out what looked like a brace, so took David's advice, thank you. With a dusting of primer. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

couldn't figure out where the 2 axle bogie came from cause I know the picture I sent you had 4 axle trucks, so I looked again and finally found a photo of the one you are building and have to say I like it better, coming out great


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, I liked cause it was different and offered a challenge. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Like the Templar knight said "you made a wish choice"


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made a jig for the door rails and a template for drilling, same for grab irons. After fitting a single step, think I will be doing 2 step. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

After seeing the full sized beasty at the Nevada museum I really enjoy your great modeling. I didn't know that it had a trailer. That certainly is an unusual car, especially the suspension. Thanks for posting your progress.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

choochoowilly said:


> couldn't figure out where the 2 axle bogie came from cause I know the picture I sent you had 4 axle trucks, so I looked again and finally found a photo of the one you are building and have to say I like it better, coming out great


I too find the original 4-wheel configuration more appealing than the modification with trucks. It looks a bit too cartoony with trucks, https://mckeencar.com/gallery/s/southern-pacific-company/southern-pacific-mckeen-trailer-cars/


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn and on30gn15, thank you. I too found the 4 wheel suspension interesting, and offered a challenge. Going to paint the suspension Olive Drab Green as were trucks that came from the factory. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Me 3


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank You Bill LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

To me the bogie version is not cartoon like, but resembles an interurban or streetcar trailer. In some ways the motor cars were like trolleys without the wire. I do like your two axle version better, but can see the reason for the bogie version as well.

Best, David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Minor detail: Fashioned and installed steps under the doors, Pic highlights the wheels need to be weathered. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Boy Nick, that is coming out great


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The 1:1 McKeen's didn't have the skirts that I put on, will attempt to explain why I did:
I saw a pic of one moving a standard box car. Wanted to be able to couple mine to the rest of the cars I have, and maybe even include the Trailer in the middle of a consist, just to arouse interest. This meant installing the couplers at the height of the rest of my cars, factory standard. Didn't like all that empty space and the exposed bracket that connects to the rear truck and on the car and now to the floor of the trailer, so skirts. 
Always open to suggestions. LiG


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

I like the skirts looks clean. And it matches the Mckeen


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick, I too think it looks much better with the skirt, course I've always liked skirts, LOL


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, thank you, skirts do make things interesting, some more than others. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here it is,



. 




. Life is Good


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

That looks great Nick.
What next?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

They turned out sweet!!!
Jason


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason & David, thank you, I purchased a Shark Kit and an additional shell that is slightly distorted. Going to combine them, along with other parts to make a PRR 1-A-1 Shark. Maybe not as challenging as the McKeens, but unique, to my knowledge. Maybe won't be starting for a little bit, outside spring work to be done and bonding with a new Companion. LiG


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

He/She Looks a little larger than 1/29 or 1/24, but not much, and very cute.
Cheers,
David


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

David, thank you.I'll be laughing about that for a while. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

And what is the newbie's name, very cute


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, her name is Trinket, but she doesn't know that yet, working on it. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Great to see your McKeen consist running. Very nice job.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice, Nick... Really, really nice...


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, thank you very much, Stan, thank you, your decals add a necessary touch. LiG


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

cute name fits her, glad she finally has a good daddy!!!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great trucking around Nick, you did a darned nice job.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, thank you, you are responsible for introducing me to the McKeen and the Rivet process, and I thank you for that also. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

No problem always glad to give and get help! Now that you are warmed up I could send you mine to work on! LOL


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, you were well on your way, and I couldn't even come close to how you lay those rivet panels. The Trailer was a fraction of putting rivets on the whole McKeen. LiG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Just joking Nick, I'll finish it someday.....


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I Know, just goosing ya. LiG,


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Got a PM asking about the long wheel base going through turnout in reverse. LiG


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