# PIKO switch motor, decoder



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm looking for an alternative to the TrainLi switch motor decoders--I just had two more fail on me. They work well when they work, but my experience has been that they aren't reliable for more than a year. 

I just saw that Piko makes a "waterproof switch motor" and a single channel decoder which plugs into the motor, lgb style. Below are the part numbers

PIKO Electric Switch Machine
Part Number: P35271 

Switch Decoder, 1 Channel
Part Number: P35016 
I can't find any documentation on these or any reviews by users. Does anyone here have any experience with them? Otherwise, it's either more TrainLi or else I'm going to try waterproof servos and servo decoders, and rig up some kind of spring mechanism


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Have you tried LGB.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nothing is waterproof (except what I use)... 

I can't find extensive information on the Piko, LGB is good but will require maintenance also, most people open them up and get the bugs out of them once a year or so. 

Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Does lgb make a DCC switch motor?


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

They have a separate decoder like the Piko.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

waterproof: (remote the DCC decoder anywhere else)










Instead of running a bunch of wires to the decoder (because they are NOT waterproof) this way just runs a single hose... can run many feet too.... I have one line that is 100 foot long.

I'd think it over if you really want something bulletproof... RJ is getting fed up too.

Greg


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## Michael W (Oct 10, 2012)

This looks like an air solanoid or valve greg, do you got some supplier information?
Kind regards michael


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thread derailed. I don't remember asking about air actuated switches.

According to responses on another forum, the Piko motors appear to be more weather resistant than w in eilabs. This according to a review in the German magazine eisenbahn profi. 

What kind of documentation to the Piko decoders come with?


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## Michael W (Oct 10, 2012)

I do not have any expirience with the piko switches, however i read positive feedback on several german blogs, apparently the motor is better than the lgb unit. For the price of about 30 bucks its worth a try.... 
I have several piko items all come with a comprehensive manual and parts listing and good documentation. 
Pikos dcc system is a simple version of the massoth system... Hope that helps regards michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My point was none of the electrical switches are waterproof. 

I know the problem you are having is water getting into the Train-Li motor, most likely your problem is the little position pot just inside the motor case. 

Also, from your postings, you don't have a high humidity problem all the year. 

So if your goal is "waterproof" you may need to look at a different technology, especially if you are doing a swap out. 

Greg


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## mbendebba (Jan 22, 2011)

I think that the Massoth single channel switch decoder, with its close-fit design and potted electronics, comes as close to being waterproof as one possibly can. The Piko single channel switch decoder is made by Massoth but I do not know whether or not it has potted electronics. 

Mohammed 
http://www.massothusa.com


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I am well familiar with the Train-Li units, having helped beta test the firmware several times, and worked with RJ on his... I have one or 2 at home. I know the failure modes from moisture very well. 

On the other units, like the Piko and others, potting is indeed the best protection, although the problem seems to shift to the screw terminals. My suggestion is to remote the electronics if at all possible. 

But, solving the problem of the switch motor seems to be the biggest challenge. 

Greg


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

It's hard to beat the LGB style solenoid (ie this new Piko one too). I've been using the LGB single channel decoders for my switches and they are trouble free and super simple since they use track power. I would recommend you try either of the LGB/Massoth/Piko as they are all pretty much the same. All these supposedly waterproof versions that use motors and gears are a maintenance headache. There's a reason there are thousands of the LGB switch units out there still working. 

Keith


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Mike, Let us know what you think of the Piko.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I had the lgb motors fail when I was running on DC. I've ordered one of the Piko motors and will reportback


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Just curious when you say "fail", exactly what happened, since they aren't a motor just a solenoid? Did it burn out in some way? 

Keith


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

They seemed to get wet corrode, and then stick


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

10-4, thanks. I think I will tear a couple of mine apart this winter and have a look to see if they are starting to corrode or if there's any sign of a problem. 

Keith


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've heard from many people that they do regular maintenance, opening the LGB motors, cleaning out the insides, making sure the drain hole is clear. 

Makes them last a long time... not sure about electrical contacts for switching power. 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have 9 LGB switch motors outdoors and only have to fix 1 or 2 each year. I guess I am very lucky. I did have to replace a rusted one last year, enough water got inside to rust the casing around the solenoid. 

Of course indoors never a problem!! True for any switch motor/solenoid.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, I'd say that's about what I heard. That's why a lot of people open and clean them once a year or so, to prevent having to fix.









Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

For interested parties, here are a few pictures.

The Piko switch motor itself is somewhat like the LGB, but it's heavier and the case seems more robust and bigger. As you can see, the lid presses against a rubber perimeter seal, and the switch arm, the part that actually moves the switch, is sealed by a rubber boot.










When the cover is on, wires are inserted through small hoes in the case, and then tightened down by screw which are under a rubber flap on the top of the case.










The Decoder itself is entirely potted in epoxy, with only the pins connecting it to the motor exposed










If you take the other side of the decoder off, all you see are the wire terminals and black epoxy

The wire terminals are screwed down via a removable rubber seal.









In this picture I'm holding the "lid" under my thumb.

It seems very robust and extremely well sealed. I would assume the problem here is likely to be condensation--it looks like water will be pretty effectively sealed against external liquid water. 

I'm actually thinking about filling it with mineral oil. If the cavity is truly sealed, then mineral oil would prevent damage from condensation. The decoder seems to be pretty much invulnerable, though water could get in and corrode the pins that connect the decoder to the motor. I'll put LGB "conductive paste" on the pins.

I havent tried to program it yet--probably tomorrow


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Maybe fill it with dielectric grease... that won't leak out. 

greg


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