# NMRA Scale Aristo-Craft Wheel Replacements.



## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

I have a never ending fleet of modern rolling stock, all of which I use Aristo-Craft or USAT modern roller bearing trucks under. But something has always bugged me about each and everyone of them. The flanges are TOO deep! I have since then been searching for scale NMRA flanged wheel sets that are compatible with Aristo-Craft / USAT roller bear trucks. Anyone have any solutions?


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't know about NMRA standards, but North West Shortline (NWSL) makes 1:29 wheels with three types of flanges (172, 236, and 270). True scale flanges (172) need perfect track and are really intended for display models. The semi-scale flanges (236) are more forgiving for basic track work, although your track still has to be pretty good for them to operate without derailing. Their thickest flange (270) is still a lot better then the typical way oversized flange and should work with most track.


NWSL "G Gauge" Wheels 




I'm currently looking into larger diameter wheelsets to replace the ones that come on USA motor blocks. NWSL makes some in 1:29. While right for USA trains, unfortunately the largest (40" in 1:29) is still too small for a scratchbuilding project I'm contemplating in 1:22.5 scale


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I got some pretty large wheels from Sierra Valley, in their 1:13th line. Wider tread though. I used them on the centipede tender, pretty well hidden behind the side frames anyway. Gary Raymond has some different sizes also-I've had good luck with his, just the semi-scale ones not the real fine scale ones.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

You did not mention what code of rail your operating on. But I have found no problems using the the USAT or Aristo RB tr4ucks on code 332 rail. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What do you mean by scale NMRA? 

Turns out the standards do have a "proto" side: http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/pdf/S1-1_0709.pdf 

But only certain scales used in G... there's the 1:32 and the 1:20.32 scales... in 1:29 or other scales, this is not defined by the NMRA. 

the flange depths for the 2 proto scales are .81 to .99 and 1.27 to 1.57 mm respectively. 

I'll guarantee you that you cannot run this outside unless it's a loop of track on a flat plywood board with no switches. 

2mm to 3mm is what pretty much works outdoors... 2mm takes very good trackwork. 

So, it's up to you, you might just file down the flanges by chucking the axle tips in a drill and using a file... or a lathe... you can find the finescale stuff as Matt pointed out (I think Gary Raymond also has some) 

Regards, Greg


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## SNER (Sep 20, 2010)

I run on Llagas Creek code 250 outdoors with wide curves and all home built turnouts (which have yet to give me problems unless the flanges are TOO deep) but I also use code 332 at the museum when we have special events. As Greg had mentioned above, there is a unclear "proto" dimensions for all G scales but I have been aiming for 2mm with 3mm at the biggest (don't like to brag, but the track work is well maintained). I have 2 cars with 2.13mm flanges and they seem to work flawlessly, even on my less than perfect, never should be used, siding trackage. I also had an RS-3 that I bought for $50, that had been well worn and had about 1mm flange height and flange width was described as "tin foil" left on each wheel. It was kept indoors, but I did take it outside when I could and it only derailed if you coupled too fast or bumped a standing object (used as a yard shifter and local serive). Unfortunately, I have since "scrapped" the unit for parts for another Alco project, but it does prove that even 1mm flanges can operate reliably. 

By the way, thanks Matt for the link. The lower flanges seem promising since I could not find 36" freight wheels with scale flanges.... until now.









David


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

3mm is just about as big as you will find (except toys and LGB)... 2mm will take good trackwork, above average. less than 2mm is real tough outside. 

2mm is my goal. Ted Doskaris had some wheels made, and several of us tested them, the next batch will be 2mm flange depth. 

Regards, Greg


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Really depends on WHICH nmra standards you wish to adhere to. 

There have been some manufacturers that claimed "nmra" wheels, and that was even when there wasn't a standard. 
All you need is 1.575" back-to-back, and a 2mm flange for outdoors. 

I have exactly 4 GR wheelsets on site. 
We used to put that car out whenever people asked about nmra standard wheelsets. 

If you wanted a car that derailed everywhere, for no reason most times, while all others in the string stayed on the track, that was it. 

I got tired of it, yanked them out of service, and now use no less than 2mm flanges....and set to 1.575" b-to-b. 

If you have a lathe and a "profile" for the flange you want, turn yours down.


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## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

You can get by with fine wheelsets, but not on most standard off the shelf wagons.
You'll need weight and a proper suspension or (as Greg said) a perfectly flat and level (and uninteresting) track for it to work.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And "proper suspension" is pretty hard to find in many products. 

I actually had more trouble with a certain manufacturer's sprung trucks than a different manufacturer's unsprung ones (freight trucks)... then I started looking deeper at the wheels, back to back, car weight, etc, and found the reasons. 

On locomotives, it's worse in the inexpensive ones, and often not good on the expensive brass ones. I found my 0-6-0 aml had a stiff suspension, but adding 5 pounds of weight really helped, now the springs are working, not at full extension, as an example. 

Regards, Greg


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