# LAYING TRACK



## Joehll7 (Dec 24, 2012)

HOWDY FROM LAS VEGAS, NV
I AM STARTING TO LAY SOME USA TRACK ON RAISED, 18", COMPOSITE WOOD. IT IS OVAL ABOUT 35' BY 18'. THE LONGEST STRAIGHT IS 15'.
MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I SCREW THE TRACK TO THE WOOD, IF NOT HOW TO KEEP TRACK ON THE WOOD AS WE GET A LOT OF SPING AND SUMMER WINDS.
DO I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT A LOT OF EXPANSION THIS SUMMER.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.
THANKS 
JOE


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

It needn't be solidly attached to the wood, but you'll definitely want it tacked in place every 5 - 10 feet or so. Being in LV, you'll undoubtedly get lots of sun, thus a fair amount of expansion. Letting the track have the freedom to move just a bit with that expansion will be a definite help. My suggestion would be to screw it to the wood every so often and see how that does for you. I've found that "less is more" when it comes to securing track to any kind of subroadbed. You want the subroadbed to support the track, certainly, but having it so integrated into the track itself to where the two cannot move laterally independent of each other tends to throw a bunch of hitches into your giddy-up. 

Later, 

K


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Joe, 
What kind of composite wood are you using? How close are the supports? There can be some problems with it sagging without good support.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Welcome Joe, 
I redid half my layout this year and elevated it on wood planks. I use Aristo SS track, I screw the joiners together and use clamps when the screws and/or holes are mucky. I live I live in the foothills outside of Tucson and I get expansion and monsoons with driving winds. Never once did the wind move the track . I've had cars blown down the track or off it. 
I've seen it move laterally as it heats and cools or by my toe ...ooops! 

Happy Rails 
John


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin is correct. Less is better. Unless you live in a part of the country with a constant temperature and a lot of shade, you need to plan for a lot or a little expansion due to temperature changes throughout the year. I remember once when a member of my local club (Denver) came out on a hot day and discovered that all of his rails had separated from his ties. He had very carefully laid his track and anchored it so that it would not move. The track bed and ties didn't, but the rails did. In Las Vegas with very hot summers and cool winters you need to let the track be able to move. To many anchor points may cause you grief. Another friend in Denver was able to document over 3" of movement on his large curves in a very sunny part of his layout. Wind will not affect the track, but it could blow over cars and buildings. Chuck


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Joe, 

A thumbnail lesson in expansion. There are three primary materials rail is made of. In order of cost and durability, Stainless Steel, Brass, and Aluminum, Stainless Steel being the most durable and most expensive. The coefficients of expansion are: 1) Stainless Steel = 0.0000096 2) Brass = 0.0000104 3) Aluminum = 0.000012.3 . (Note: Stainless Steel comes in many grades, but the most common, and the most likely material for our track, is grade 304 - and that is the coefficient I am using.) The amount of expansion you will see in the track will be calculated by: Total temperature change times total length times the coefficient of expansion for the material of choice. You stated that your longest straight is 15 feet or 180 inches. Las Vagas can see temperatures from about 20 degrees to approaching 120 degrees, or a total differential temperature of 100 degrees. For demonstration purposes I will use Brass rail, the most common. 180" x 100 x 0.0000104 = 0.1872", or 3/16". This example does not include the additional temperature rise for the solar heat of the sun, which I have measured on the rail with an infrared thermometer at 165 degrees here in Florida. 

If you compensate for that when you put your track down, it will not be a problem later. Keep in mind that expansion will not be denied, it will go somewhere - linearly, laterally or vertically - but it will go. You will also see expansion in the curves as well. My recommendation would be to secure the track LOOSELY. Allow it to move or it may well rip the rail out of the tie strip. Somewhere in this forum, there is a thread showing a metal wire retainer which holds the track but also allows movement. 

Good luck. 

Bob C.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

This works on concrete road bed as well as any wood surface.


Only thing you need to do is change the screw to a wood screw.

This method holds the track firmly but will have some give for expansion


John J's - Track Anchoring Method (PDF 220KB)[/b]


JJ


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