# One motor on Dual Motor LGB trains siezing up



## bcwa (Feb 10, 2009)

All:


I apologize if this subject has been covered in the past.  We are experiencing some strangeness with our LGB trains and looking for help or information.


Items of note:


* We ran a LGB layout outside at our old house for 3 years without the subject line problems.


* The trains were cleaned, packed away in original boxes and stored for approx 5 years after moving.


* We recently began building a new layout and started using our "Croc" and other dual engine LGB engines.


* The front motors on these dual units are now siezing up after running normally.  We typically ran them for an hour or so several over several days before the lock up occurs.


* The track is outdoors using LGB brass with a single set of LGB rail connectors. Power comes from a single LGB 5006 power pack connected to a LGB 5007 controller.  


* I was thinking that the grease got old while the trains were stored - but not sure why only the front motor is siezing.  We ran the last unit in reverse - the front end motor was still the one that siezed.


Any suggestions on how we could resolve ourselves or a reputable repair center ion the Tampa, Florida area would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks to all in advance!


Bob


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## Snoq Pass (Jan 2, 2008)

1) From the time you put the locomotive on the rails and apply power, how long does it take before the front motor locks-up? 
2) Does the front motor lock-up every time the locomotive is run? 
3) When the front motor locks-up, is there any noise coming from the motor? 
4) Are the gear teeth still intact?


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## bcwa (Feb 10, 2009)

1) From the time you put the locomotive on the rails and apply power, how long does it take before the front motor locks-up?  Bob - Usually several runs of an hour or so each.  The last one was only an hour total.
2) Does the front motor lock-up every time the locomotive is run?  Bob - Yes
3) When the front motor locks-up, is there any noise coming from the motor? Bob - No.  The wheels themselves will not turn on the siezed unit - still turn on the rear unit.
4) Are the gear teeth still intact?  Bob - Yes, although we have only opened one unit to confirm.  BTW - the grease was still "loose" in this engine.


* I should alos mention that we have used one or two of the same engines around the tree for several Xmas without this problem. Being in Florida, we do have a lot of sand but not seing any internal in the unit.


Thanks so much for your reply.  We LOVE trains especially LGB.  


Bob


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bob,

Is it possible that the lead motor block is having power pickup issues due to dirty sliders/wheels that in effect are 'cleaning' the track ahead of the rear motor block? Is there sap on the tracks now that wasn't there in years past? Plant any new trees?








How good a cleaning did you give the track, wheels, sliders and back of wheels? 
Also, are you using the same rolling stock as before? Do they have steel or plastic wheels? 

Keith


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

This may not be the solution in this case, but I would still take them apart and give them all a good clean, 5 years is a long time for a loco to sit in storage and expect it to work, even for LGB.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a 1983 model year 2010 "Stainz" that has always been a good runner without problems. 

Then this spring, I put it on the rails, and it ran jerky and stopped. Looking at the side showed the problem. The axels were not "in time" with each other causing the rods to bind. I feared a broken gear or the like but nothing like that when I opened it, every thing was good and tight. I have no idea how it shifted, but I have put it back together and in time, and it has been fine ever since?!?!? 

I guess you should first see if the motor itself or if the block is binding? Maybe bench test the motor itself for an hour or so and see what happens? Strange it is always the lead truck tho....


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## bcwa (Feb 10, 2009)

Thanks to all for your replies.  Just to highlight a few:


* We cleaned each track section by hand first with a cleaning block, then ran the LGB cleaning engine.  The cleaning engine still runs great...


*  All wheels on rolling stock are steel.


* I am always wary of opening these to get to the motor blocks.  I am somewhat mechanical but each design is interesting to say the least.  Anyone aware of online schematics or tutorials?


* Anyone aware of reputable repair shops in Florida or even nationally?  We took one of our engines to a large train store in Pinellas Park, Florida for a different problem.  Several attempts in their repair shop did not resolve the issue and created a mess. 


Thanks again forall the great and quick replies.  We'll look at every suggestion and option because we love these suckers.


Bob


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob: 

If your Kroks are the original 2040, check here: 

http://www.gartenbahn.at/g_spur/downloads/downloadarchiv/lgb/eplosionsz/2040-1.PDF 

EDIT: they show the motor blocks intact in this model, but check a simple model such as 2050, 2060, etc for the block itself. the rods and other Krok bits will be in the diagram above......

Otherwise, find your model number here: 

http://www.gartenbahn.at/g_spur/downloads/lgb.htm 

The only train shop for LGB in Fla I know of is H&R trains, they are somewhere near Clearwater/Tampa from memory. Had a repair shop, or did the last time I was there, might be worth a shot. 

Good luck!!!


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

im baffled by the multiple incidents-ie with more than a single engine-but it may suggest conditions-ie moisture or dirt or something 

to clarify 

are these mechanical lock ups -ie the wheels wont move (when they would otherwise be turnable by hand ?)-then a good cleaning is likely the place to start 

if so -i agree-pull them apart and thouroughly clean them-then re-assemble-lightly lube with lgb grease or labelle teflon grease-re- 

quarter carefully and like clean and lube sliders for free travel 

otoh if the motor is dead-might i offer 

-i had at one time,an intermittant motor problem on my WPY diesel-the issue wa that one of the motors didnt always run- 

i took it apart and monkeyd with the motor and discovered that the brushes on the motor sometimes get stuck away from the contact on the armature -and the motor wont run- 

soultion-IF these are the older motors with replaceable/accessible brushes -where you can actually free them-is to gently move /push the brush against the motor armature and clean off any built up residue-even a nice shot of electronics cleaner in the area -flushes away gunk and lubes -worked for me and has since served well for years 

if this isnt the solution then it may be time for new motors 

dont be intimidated by disassembly -download the schematics from the site provided above at gartenbahn- 

i find with LGB it helps me to set aside time to completely disassemble and re-assemble-without interuption -this reduces forgetting things-so set aside several hours where you can work the problem and finish and re-assemble in one go-helps to remember where certain screws go, etc 

i take a good look at where wires and contact leads etc colors etc are located and dig in-provided you getit all back together in order then the only precise part-imho-is quarterting-and this isnt too bad on all but the old clamshell boxes (which ARE a PAIN-you simply have to try until you get it right)


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

There are places that repair LGB locos, and most of the repairs depend on the availability of parts. 
Motors and gears so far are not a problem for most LGB engines, and sliders and traction tires are available. 

Lockups can be for several reasons as folows: 
A gear slipped and wheels are out of quarter 
Motor itself has too much carbon/copper on commutator and needs cleaning/replacement 
Motor brushes failed 

I have seen all of the above symptons on LGB engines, but the commutator issue usually makes the motor draw 3 or 4 amps and over heats.


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## bcwa (Feb 10, 2009)

GREAT replies from all!  I m going to set aside some time this weekend to work on the locos and will let you know the outcome.


THANKS again!


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## BNGP10 (Jan 4, 2008)

Watts Train Shop in Zionsville Indiana is an excellent reputable repair shop for LGB trains. Most of my G scale parts come form there when I get an LGB piece to fix. I do some LGB work for the local area hobby shop, but most stuff I get are HO scale and Lionel. I had one LGB Stainz that was brand new, it had be over oiled by LGB so much that it fouled the communtator. I had to disassemble the motor, clean and reassemble. Then it ran fine. Good Luck. Mike


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