# Complete noob, have some Q's



## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Hi guys. I've always wanted to get into trains and I finally got my chance when the wife said she wanted a Christmas train set when she saw an el cheapo model at Wallmart. I "suggested" a little better set thinking I could get a g scale set started.

So I found a bachman Night before Christmas set at a local hobby house for $299. Not a bad price I thought so I snagged it. I got it together and working and we are enjoying.

Then I remembered my dads friend had an engine that was just sitting on his desk. I called him up and he gave it to me. I did some cursory googling and I think it's an Aristo Craft dash 9. Is that a good engine?

He told me the small track that came with my set isn't big enough to run this engine. It's fine, I plan on getting more track this weekend. But out of curiosity, is he right?

Also, is there any tips or tricks to maintain both of these engines I have now? Lube spots and what not?

Thanks!


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## Sjoc78 (Jan 25, 2014)

Hi and welcome to the hobby.

Your friend is right, that is a rather big engine, I don't have that particular model but based on my experience with larger engines you'll probably want an 8ft diameter curve minimum for that one. Your starter comes with a 4 foot diameter curve which is really only good for smaller trains, even your starter set is pushing it for that size.

Also for the larger locomotive the starter power pack is waaay under powered you will probably want something along the lines of a USA trains Power 10 for the Dash 9.


As for the Bachmann engine it's pretty easy I believe there should be some screws on the bottom of the chassis that will let the base plate come off and allow you to lubricate. From the factory they are usually fine in my experience.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Ahh, ok. I didn't even think about the power pack but it makes sense. well at least I can run the Christmas set now and get more track and a power pack after Christmas.

What about the sound? I think it has a speaker but not a sound card? Is that right? Should i get a sound card or another car that makes noise like the one that came with the Christmas kit?


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Welcome!

Go for the largest diameter curves you can physically fit in your space - you'll be glad you did. I run smaller European narrow gauge, and, while it will run on the four foot diameter starter set radius, eight foot diameter runs and looks much better. 

For your large diesel, I would go with 15 foot diameter or more (if you have the room.)

You've got some long term decisions to make here, as the interaction of power (variable-voltage, DCC, battery) control (simple rheostat, DCC, R/C) and type of track all bring things to consider.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with the others about larger diameter curves. I have an USAT SD70Mac diesel. It is about the same size as your Aristo. All my curves are 10' diameter as you can see in the picture below there is a lot of overhang. It would look a lot better on larger diameter curves. It handles the 10' d curves, but the looks leave a lot to be desired. I doubt it would do well on curves any tighter.

This is looking straight down on the engine on a 10' diameter curve.










Freight train entering curve.










There is enough swing on the couplers for cars with body mounted couplers. Cars with truck mounted couplers can't swing out enough, so they derail going into the curves. 

Chuck


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Welcome!

May we ask your name? 

Check into local Garden Railroad Clubs in your area. Take your time planning out and don't rush into things. I agree with what was said with larger radii for curves. 

As for control systems, take a look at how others control/operate. Are you wanting to just turn trains on and watch them run, or do you want to control them like the real thing. Sound/no sound. 

What area do you live in? This may effect your decision on what kind of control system and what track material you use.

But you're at the correct place to ask questions and learn. Welcome aboard.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

My name is Jason.

I don't have to get too crazy but it would be nice to be able to control them like the real thing.

I'm in upstate NY. I live right where ridge road station used to be. I'm bummed he closed the place down although it was crazy to watch the entire event go down. Another example of government "making things better" for the people it represents.

As far as the curves, are all curved pieces shaped the same or are their different curve pieces so that you can make wider curves?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome, and as someone said, this is the place for answers. Tip: google "site:mylargescale.com big hauler" or "site:mylargescale.com aristo dash 9" or similar and you will just get threads from this site.



> or another car that makes noise like the one that came with the Christmas kit?


Ahem. That isn't a 'car', it's a "tender" and the loco shouldn't go anywhere without it. It carries mostly water for the boiler to make steam, and fuel (coal or wood) for the fire. You'll note it doesn't have a regular coupler at the end connected to the loco.

Check out George Schreyers "tips" website: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. Like I said I'm completely green and this forum seems like a great place to read read read. 

I just did a quick search on that USA Trains power 10. Seems like around $200 is the going price. But bad. Is that something that could be had on the classified section here?

Yes, I noticed the difference in couplers on the tender. I wasn't quite sure why it was like that and I haven't had time to look it up yet. I have a nine month old and a huge problem with a father in law my wife and I made the mistake of moving in with us. Now we are getting him out and it's s nightmare. But as soon as that's done I can turn some of my attention to my new trains. 

It's been killing me to only be able to look at that Dash nine and not be able to use it lol


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Sorry, meant to say not bad for the price. Grrrr, auto correct. 

And an I missing an edit button?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

You can buy curves already bent in many different diameters, from about 4' d to 20' d this is referred to as sectional track. Straight comes in different lengths. You can also buy longer pieces of track, with rails and ties attached or not attached. These can be bent to any diameter you want. Most who bend their own curved track buy or borrow a rail bender. This gives smoother curves than you can get by bending the rail by hand.

FYI I use sectional track on my railroad.

Chuck


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

And Chuck is always commenting he wishes he could have built larger curves...which were not yet the norm at the time period he built his different layouts...

Do you have a planned area to build a layout outdoors...if so..how large is the area?

Start with that...you may be wise to build for old steam if your space is not very large.
Running modern trains..including that nice -9 loco..take up more room...

Plan ahead here....be realistic and practical....

If not, than plan a road trip an run modern trains here in AZ...I have room!!

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Jason,
Keep Reading, just keep in mind, like many things in life there are multiple methods of skinning a cat and you will most certainly hear many of them. Along with this site, I would also recommend another forum with very knowledgeable folks - Large Scale Central (www.largescalecentral.com). Some only frequent one or the other site, some (like me) frequent both.
A fellow forum poster on both fora is Kevin Strong. I highly recommend his book "Garden Railway Basics" for new people. Covers every aspect of garden railroading, highlighting many important issues and pitfalls. NO I do not get a commission, just think it is a great starting point for new folks.
Welcome aboard and Happy Railroading.
Bob C.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Thank you guys for how helpful you've been already. I'm new here but I'm not with other hobbies so I appreciate the patience with all of my noob questions. I know on some forums new guys aren't met with much but a quick, "learn to use to search feature" blurb. 

I just read a little and I'm blown away at the depth of this hobby. I figured more track is what I need right away and how hard could that be?! Lol. Well it seems I have to figure out if I can mix and match with the stuff I already have from Bachman, and what kind of diameter cruces I want....yikes. 

As far as space, I have a big basement so not really an issue. My bug issue is I'm renting this house from s friend. My wife and I plan on moving out of state in, hopefully, a year and a half. I don't really mind building something now but it would be a bummer if it didn't match the space I was moving to. But I guess I can't really worry about that now. 

Also, I'd like to, after we move, at some point, run this inside and outside. So I have that to think about too. 

I'm just glad I got this starter set and I snagged the dash 9 for free


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## Sjoc78 (Jan 25, 2014)

Also to add to Chuck's comment, the different diameter curves available in sectional track also are different arc lengths, i.e. the 8ft like I mainly use and mentioned earlier are 22.5 degrees or 16 pieces to make a circle where at the 30 degree arc of your starter track they require only 12 for a circle. Wider radii tend to be less of an angle, its something you'll want to keep in mind if you decide to stay with sectional to make sure you get enough to complete a loop. Sectional track is fine but also keep in mind that the starter track you got with the Bachmann train is the lowest end track and if you decide to go out doors it will rust and become useless pretty fast. Bachmann has started making brass track for those who are going to take it outside. You'll get a lot of opinions here on what track is best.

Also personally I have mostly LGB brass track as that was the only option for the longest time it holds up really well as it was designed with the garden railroad in mind. If you get serious I would recommend checking ebay as you can some times find better deals on track.

As for the price for the USA power supply, $200 is a little high but still in the range I paid. If you can get it for like $170 that's good but as some one mentioned you need to figure out what you want to do beyond your starter set, i.e. what do you want to run, how much space you have, etc.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

GscaleNoob said:


> My name is Jason.
> 
> I don't have to get too crazy but it would be nice to be able to control them like the real thing.
> 
> ...


Jason,
stop by Garden Factory in Gates any Saturday or Sunday between now and Christmas..
members of the Genesee G Gauge club will be there running trains on weekends! 
Im not sure which days im going to be there yet, but if im not there, other GGGRS members will be happy to answer any questions you might have..

https://sites.google.com/site/1991gggrs/

We will also have a G-gauge setup at the RIT Train show in December.

Scot


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

If your Bachmann track is hollow steel, it will not easily connect to the solid rail, be it brass, stainless steel, nickel silver, or aluminum. As said earlier it cannot be used outside, but it is fine for indoor use, but I think that you are limited to 4' diameter curves.

Chuck


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Jason-

There's a series on YouTube called something like "The Garden Railway". I believe the host is Mark Found. Series about building a garden railroad, answered lots of beginner questions..

I hear ya on the nine month old. While I would rock my youngest to sleep, I would hop on the iPad to do some research. Nothing like multitasking as a parent


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Jason - I'm where you are, except on the other side of Rochester. My garden RR is five years old, although I was into HO trains back a couples decades ago.

1 - Do you know the RIT train show is Dec. 13 & 14? Almost no G scale but interesting nevertheless.

2 - All my trains are in their basement hideout until next spring, but I'd be happy to show you what I have (500 ft of track) if you want to do the 45 minute drive sometime. Are you able to do a PM to me? Might be helpful if we want to chat.

JackM


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

This is the ideal moment to think through future plans. It's natural to expand a starter set with more brass sectional track, but ...

And this is a big but ...

That's how people spend a lot of money on brass sectional track - that may not be the best long term solution. If you can start building toward your long term plan at the beginning, it will save you the expense of things which become rapidly obsolete.

Do some research on different materials for track. If you know you want track powered trains, you're probably going to want brass, but stainless steel or nickel plated are options. However, aluminum is half the cost. 

I know I want to run live steam, which gets oil on the track, so I've decided on aluminum. If I want to run electric models, I'm presently leaning toward battery power. This solution avoiding cleaning track, is the lowest cost, avoids having to de-bug electrical problems in track, and means I can run my train on any railway.

However, if you know you want full-featured DCC - train control, multi-train operation, wiring simplicity, control of turnouts and accessories from one handpiece - then you're track powered.

Regardless of material, look into flex track and smaller rails. Most G follows the LGB standard of code 335 rail, which is way oversized to be scale. Code 215 or 250 looks better (at the loss of some mechanical strength if you walk on it.) Flex track, in six or eight foot pieces, reduces the number of joints and is more electrically reliable. Staggering the joints of the two rails is more prototypical in appearance, improves performance, and keeps the track looking better. Rail clamps, rather than joiners, are a better solution outdoors. The flex track can be bent to a new shape, for instance if your new house forces a difference radius, you acquire larger equipment, etc. Flex also looks more realistic, with natural flowing bends.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

So I was going to do a multi quote but I ended up repeating myself so I'll just do this.

Like it was suggested by BigRedOne this is the perfect time to plan everything out and be honest with myself. I'd love to drop tons of coin into this but I have other expensive hobbies that, as of now, probably will come first. This will probably change, they always rotate as my interest in one wanes and grows in another. The cycle of my ADHD life.

Having said that, and learning my starter Bachman set will probably offer little crossover to the -9, I'm going to keep the set the way it is and work on the 9

Being honest, I'd like to keep it as cheap as I can. I know, already in this hobby, that's laughable but I'm going to try. I have the 9 I got for free along with what appears to be three pieces of straight brass track. So it seems, and please tell my if I'm wrong, these are my initial goals:

1. Pic a circumference that I want to run and get the track. For now, it'll be in the basement. I'll probably go with brass since I have three straight a ways already.

2. Since I probably will just run the 9, get a power supply that will handle it. (should I still get the USA 10 amp or will something a little smaller cut it?)

Speaking of the 9, I think I found a link to a website that sold my model and it said it comes with a speaker but no sound. That means I need a sound card, right?

3. Obtain four to six cars to attach. 

Like I said, for now, I can't go crazy. But does this seem like a feasable starter plan? Down the road, after we move, I can plan something more elaborate. But that's at least two years from now.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Jason,
My rational behind recommending Kevin's book is two fold. First, Kevin is excellent at presenting facts without including his personal perspective. Lord knows we all have our own thoughts on what is the 'best' way to do something. Second, you will easily be able at your leisure (even while feeding a 9 month old) read - re-read - reference, any specific subject you are looking for. The book will also bring your knowledge level on garden trains up to where you will be able to know 'what questions to ask' and by that time you will have knocked about these fora enough to know 'who' to ask.
I started out being convinced that simple analog track power was the way to go. Seven years later, and more disposable income invested that I care to speak about, I am not so sure now. My recommendations are based on my experiences and I am trying not to introduce my perspective into your head.
Good luck and Happy Railroading.
Bob C.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

armorsmith said:


> Jason,
> My rational behind recommending Kevin's book is two fold. First, Kevin is excellent at presenting facts without including his personal perspective. Lord knows we all have our own thoughts on what is the 'best' way to do something. Second, you will easily be able at your leisure (even while feeding a 9 month old) read - re-read - reference, any specific subject you are looking for. The book will also bring your knowledge level on garden trains up to where you will be able to know 'what questions to ask' and by that time you will have knocked about these fora enough to know 'who' to ask.
> I started out being convinced that simple analog track power was the way to go. Seven years later, and more disposable income invested that I care to speak about, I am not so sure now. My recommendations are based on my experiences and I am trying not to introduce my perspective into your head.
> Good luck and Happy Railroading.
> Bob C.



Gotcha. The book will be obtained.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

It's completely feasible - just may not hit all your goals (which anyway could change) in the long run.

If you want to save money, for me it's aluminum flex track. At just over $200 for 10 pc of six foot lengths, you get 60 foot of track for $200, and can make any arrangement you want. LGB brass sectional track runs $150 or so a box of 12 one-foot sections, so you are looking at $900 for 60 feet. This is going to drive the overall economics ... your current three pieces aren't enough to matter. 

In my view, code 215 or 250 rail will look much better. You have a large locomotive there, which should "look big" in comparison to nearby equipment. So you do not want to spoil the aesthetic by having oversized track, or cars in a larger scale than your locomotive. (This is largely personal opinion, so feel free to ignore every world!)

The above is not to say aluminum is the right choice for you, since you still have power, ease of alteration and changing the track plan frequently, etc.

You can run a smaller power supply. Something in the two amp range, or preferable a bit more, should be fine. This depends on your longer term plan. If you want to add more locomotives, switch machines, accessories and structure lighting off the same power supply ... For that matter, if you just want to watch the train and not control the speed, industrial power supplies and things like car battery chargers might satisfy, especially to get started if you have something handy.

For cars, the main suggestion I'll make is to make sure they are the right scale for your locomotive. "G scale" is an odd duck, in an odd pond, on an odd planet, orbiting an odd star ... where, not all "G scale" models actually match. If your loco is 1:29, then try to stick to 1:29 rolling stock. To compound the misery, many models are not faithful to the prototype's dimensions, even when they are the scale you want. So you are warned, a person could lose their sanity rapidly in this hobby!


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Also watch for good used track Personaly, I use nothing but LGB brand track. I have bought none of it brand new other than what came in my starter set. Check with Zionsville Train Depot, I believe he still has some good used LGB track in stock at big savings over new. I also wouldnt go smaller than 10 amps to run that big Dash9. There is a switch under a hatch where you can turn off the motors, but leave the lights on. Makes it look impressive on the mantle when just on display. Unfortunatly for my garden railway, tight curves are required, so I stick with European narrow gauge trains from LGB. I also have an overhead loop around our living room ceiling, away from my dogs and thier hair they shed all over the place! Here are a couple pics for inspiration. Enjoy Mike


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Jason, welcome to MLS and G-scale in general. Most definitely, get involved with the Genesee G Gauge society. They're a good group. I was active with them when I lived in upstate NY. I don't know if they still do the summer tours (I would presume so; Scot can confirm), but they're a great way to get out and see what others are doing in the garden with their trains. If you want to spend the week of July 4th in Denver, come on out here for the National Garden Railway Convention. 

In terms of where you are right now, short term, I'd stick with the sectional track. LGB, Piko, TrainLine45, Aristo, USA, and Bachmann all make brass sectional track, and all of them are compatible with each other. Pretty much the only visible difference is in the plastic ties. As has been said, the sectional track can get pricey, but keep your eyes open for 2nd-hand sales. Being indoors (even with a large basement) you probably won't be needing hundreds of feet of it, so even at "new" prices, you probably won't break the bank filling the basement with track. Definitely for that Dash-9, I'd not go under 5' radius (10' diameter). Note--in large scale, we reference curves in terms of "radius" and "diameter" pretty much equally. When purchasing track, make sure you're on the same page as whomever you're purchasing the track from, so to avoid problems. 

When you eventually move to a place with a back yard, then you can figure out whether you want to stick with the sectional track or go with the smaller rail and flex track. I just finished up a series in _Garden Railways_ magazine on track that talks about the pros and cons of sectional vs. flex track, and the advantages of various rail materials (June, August, and October 2014 issues). I write about track in *my book* , but this series goes into more depth. (Thanks for the plug, Bob, and more so the kind words!)

If you do ultimately go with flex track outdoors, your sectional track will undoubtedly come in handy for Christmas, and--if your kid is anything like mine--you'll soon find the sectional track being assembled all over the house. There are some great "kid-friendly" trains made by Bachmann and LGB when the time is right. Keep an eye out for basket-case locomotives with dead motors, too. Remove the motor, and the locomotive becomes a push toy which will undoubtedly get lots of "love" until such time as your little one is old enough to use a throttle. 

In terms of sound for the Dash-9, I agree it would be a great addition. However, you're looking at $100 to $250 for a track-power-compatible sound system. At this stage in the game, I think you'd get more mileage spending that money on track. Sound is worth the expense (in my opinion), but not much good if the loco just sits there with nowhere to run. 

Bottom line, take everything in right now. There's no need to make any firm decisions at this point. I often equate this stage of the hobby to a buffet. Take a look around, and sample a little bit of this and a little bit of that. Then--once you figure out what suits your tastes--go back for more of that. Get involved with the Genesee G Gauge group, operate on their displays, and get a feel for how different folks run their trains to see what appeals most to you. There's nothing like "hands-on" experience. The hobby can be expensive, but if you keep your eyes open, you can get stuff pretty inexpensively as well. Take things slowly, buying one piece at a time, and before you know it, you'll have a decent collection. 

Again, welcome aboard!

Later,

K


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Haven't had summer tours in a few years,
Would like to see them resume as I like to show off. ;-)
Most of the club activities have focused on building the railway at St John's home in Rochester, it came out beautifully!
I'll plug the RIT show in mid December where I'll be unveiling the new live steam portabe track. The idea got its start at Ridge Road Station when Kevin and I got tired of the ground level mulch pile temporary line we built for train races weekends.
Have fun,
Tom


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

So I've been doing some reading about power units and I came across a couple of threads where guys built their own power supplies. 

My question, if anyone knows, is how would a desktop power supply unit work? I know that they kick out really clean power, they have to, and I can control how many amps they kick out by how many of the wires I combine.

My friend had a car stereo amplifier he wanted to hook up to subwoofer in his garage so he bought a head unit and used a computer power supply to run the amp. So I know how to do the wiring, it's easy. 

In addition, could a dimmer switch be used to control the power so I could control the speed of the train?

Again, I'm so green to all of this that this seems like a good idea to me but it could be really dumb because of my ignorance.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Until you can determine the power draw of your Dash-9 assume 2 amps. Most of our motors draw between 0.5 and1 amp, not counting sound and smoke units. I have no idea as to how much a dimmer switch can handle. But your engine has two motors. 

If you want lighted cars, figure on more.

Chuck


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

If you already have the computer power supply, it is basically "free" to try it. I doubt it puts out enough voltage to damage the locomotive.

There's some level of risk in jury-rigged electrics, especially if children are around who might short it out, as that can start a fire. You want some kind of circuit protection, here.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Computer power supplies can not be used with a dimmer switch.
These supplies do not have a 60 cycle transformer that reduce the voltage and can not be controlled by a dimmer for house lights/fans.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Referencing Chuck's comment about motors....

The Dash -9 loco has two motors in each power block..for a total of 4..

I have never load tested any loco made by Aristo Craft...I cannot comment on it's running load...which is really more a function of load....meaning ....how many cars are behind the loco..

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Ok. It was more for a project rather than to cheap out. I'm into building PC's so I have a high quality, 750 watt 12 volt psu sitting here I thought might be usable. 

I'll just snag the usa trains 10


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> 750 watt 12 volt psu sitting here


 Unfortunately, most of our large scale trains run on 12-24V. The Dash-9 is rated up to 24V. Your 4-6-0 that came in the set may not explode (or burn up) at 24V, but it is much happier at 14V. I think the bachmann power supply only puts out about 15V.

Your psu will drive the steam engine and the Dash-9. The latter will not run very fast if it moves at all.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dirk, I did not know the Dash 9 had 4 motors.

Chuck


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Dash -9, SD45, E-8/9...
..all use a power block with 3 axle..2 motor design!!

The AristoCraft way!! It also prevents me from increasing "Horsepower" in them...short of swapping to My Hi-po USAT's dual motor truck!!

Got'a have Fun ya know!


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Well, trouble. I pulled off the switch board just to look. There was a broken piece to a sound board and it looks like he cut the wires to the speaker but then spliced the wires coming from the speaker to wires that run down the body and go into the fuel tank. I have no clue....

I made a thread in the sound forum that has pics.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Ok, well, I took the shell off and I found out what he did. Which also means I have a question.

First, if you look at the pic, he cut the wires going from the speaker to the motherboard and spliced them with four wires. He ran them to connecters (rear one in my hand in the pic) in the front and rear right by the couplers. 

So obviously he was pulling a car that made noise, right? Is that a better way to go? It doesn't seem like it would be.

Second, can I just pull those wires out and re-solder them to the motherboard? It seems pretty straight forward. I would have put this in the sound forum but the thread wasn't getting any replies.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It seems these questions are in 2 places on the forum... I believe I answered in the other place.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Sorry, last time I checked no one had looked at that thread and this one seemed to have more traction. Feel free to lock or delete. Thanks! ð


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

GscaleNoob said:


> Ok, well, I took the shell off and I found out what he did. Which also means I have a question.
> 
> First, if you look at the pic, he cut the wires going from the speaker to the motherboard and spliced them with four wires. He ran them to connecters (rear one in my hand in the pic) in the front and rear right by the couplers.
> 
> ...


While Greg did reply in your Sound Forum thread, he tends to assume you know at least something about the object in question. As you are totally new to trains, I suggest you go back and ask detailed questions until you 'drill down' to understand the answers. Greg does know what he is talking about, and he knows a lot more about the inside of Aristo diesels than I do.

The only reason I can think of for running speaker connections to the front and rear is if you want to add more speakers in adjacent cars/locos. As the idea of running 2 locos with identical sound seems bizarre, maybe that isn't what is going on.
One common reason for front/rear connectors is to 'pool' the electric supply, by letting all the wheels of all the locos collect power. All the motors in the same locos then get fed, even if one is on a dead spot.

The original oval speaker seems to be in place. Are you sure it isn't hooked up to the 'sound board' ? And are you sure the front/rear connectors are for sound?

And finally, is it an Aristo sound board, or something else?


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Pete look again at the speaker wires they hook to the stock speaker and go down to the end connector you also can see the power wires are cut that went to that connector originally,but you can not see the mother board or where the speaker wires go. he also has not put the jumper back in like Greg said,


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## adir tom (Dec 4, 2011)

*Rochester G gauge club*

Jason, what about joining our local G gauge train club, lots of expert advise and physical assistance building you layout. $25 yrs, meets monthly at St. Johns Meadows where we have an outdoor layout. web page: Sites.google.com/sites/1991gggrs/ or send a message to me for more details.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

Ok, I re soldered the wires. I've only soldered a couple of times and the gun I have isnt on the small side do it was pretty hard to get in there. Not to mention those wires are small and they were only a tad more than a quarter of an inch long. But I managed and I put some liquid tape on them since they were too close to get electrical tape on them. Too bad it'll be s while before I can get a sound card. At least I'll be ready when I do.


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## GscaleNoob (Nov 24, 2014)

adir tom said:


> Jason, what about joining our local G gauge train club, lots of expert advise and physical assistance building you layout. $25 yrs, meets monthly at St. Johns Meadows where we have an outdoor layout. web page: Sites.google.com/sites/1991gggrs/ or send a message to me for more details.



Yeah, sounds like a plan. You guys are at the Garden factory show, right? I will come down this upcoming weekend.


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