# Track Continuity Problems - Help!



## Guest (Jan 14, 2009)

OK, after months of smoothless, flawless running on my portable indoor layout, tonight I started having track power problems. The locos sputter, stop, stall then race. I'm so frustrated. At first I thought it was a problem with my USA switched (the cheap little plastic ones). So I checked and tightened all the little wire contact screws. No change. I noticed that when I giggled the track, the train started. So, I tried screwing all the joints together around the switches. Better, but then it happened again in a curve away from the switch. I took the curves apart. Then I saw it. Black carbon dust in between the tracks inside the joiner. Is this the problem? I was planning on screwing the entire layout together at all the joiners, but I hesitate as this will make it much less portable and difficult to tear down. If the carbon dust is the problem, I can just clean out all the jointers and get back to flawless running. What does everyone think? Is this a common problem? Or, could it be something else? HELP!


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Ed do you use, or have you tried one of the little Aristo track cleaners. Even on my indoor track this happens, I hook up the little track cleaner, and about three rounds and all is well. I have even used it outdoors when running track power does seem to make a difference!! The Regal


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you put the conductive/anti corrosion paste in the joiner when you laid the track. I have some track that's been outside for a year with nothing more than anti-corrosion paste in the joiners, and it still has good continuity

You could just spray some contact cleaner in there, that'd probably do it. But I'd try the paste. You can get the stuff Aristo makes, or I just bought some permatex anti-sieze compound at the auto parts store. It's conductive and it resists corrosion


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The carbon dust is from arcing. I'm not sure grease will solve your problem, you do not have corrosion (Grease helps here), but arcing caused by intermittent contact. Grease will not help here. Not grease you can afford! (silver bearing grease is actually conductive). 

I would suggest starting to convert to rail clamps. If cost is an issue, go with the new Aristo ones and just take it easy on torquing the screws down. I recommend Split Jaws. Hillman, now owned by SilverGate is also good. 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

GEt the di-electric silicone compound(NAPA), that will solve your problems on an inside track.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Ed is it all the locos or just a couple? I think you run all metal wheels?


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Ed,

Try taking the track apart and cleaning in between the joints.Then, if you wnat to keep your track portable, but want better connections, try takeing a bicycle innertube and cutting it into 1/4 inch strips and using those instead of screwing it together. We used the " rubber bands" at a one day train show here in KC and it took us 30-45 minutes to set the track up ( dual main-lines) and less that 30 minutes to take it down. Cliff


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Try a little CRC2-26 on your track cleaner and to clean your loco wheels. It will cut down on the arcing. 

-Brian


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ed, I'm of the same belief as Greg, if at all possible, move to direct-to-rail railclamps. 

One thing you could try if you don't want the additional expense of the clamps is to take a pair of pliars and close down on the joiner so it forms a tighter connection, that definitely helps. (I feel though that any track power deployment that doesn't use all railclamps is just asking for headaches.) 

Interesting idea Cliff on the rubber bands. 


Raymond


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Ed try railclamps!!! lol Greg and Raymond have been my personal saviours in things like this and they are both VERY knowledgeable about track power. You can trust them, I promise ^^ I do know that rail clamps do make it really easy to take out track and put it back into place with very little effort. They should be a really good solution to fixing your problem while keeping your layout portable. I personally use Split Jaw rail clamps and am happy with them ^^ 

-Will


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Rail clamps will solve the problem, that's true. They're just pricey. Do you really need them on an indoor layout? 

actually, now that I think of it, maybe you need them MORE on an indoor layout. Rain tends to clean things out a little


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

heres Ed out doors.









Ed, there, theres another spot.








Ed's best side.

Ed stop , thats enough









Ed!!!









Ed, please stop and run trains..!!!!


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, 

Proves the point(s) again from the other post, don't you think?










Raymond


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

oh man in desperate need of one of those Aristo track cleaners saves the knee joints and time, just put em on the end of a train and forget about it. "Set it and forget it" as Ron Popeil says. Hee hee Lol The Regal p.s. Is that ED'S BEST side?!!!! hee hee (mines bigger ED)


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

ED, Stop fooling around and solder jumpers across evry rail joint. It's a bit painful at the outset, but your conductivity issues due to faulty rail connections, be they original equipment or railclamps will forever be gone.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Ever clean the engine's wheels? I've seen no mention of that.

If you solder the track jumpers, and keep the railhead, wheels (that pick-up power), and sliders fairly clean, you should be good to go. Jumpers are by far the cheapest and most secure method of getting the power to flow through the rails. You don't even have to remove the joiners and clean the area underneath, just the spots to be soldered.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can try tightening up the joiners, but I would not do this without removing the joiner, cleaning it, greasing it, and putting it back on. 

I did find a perfect tool for doing this, and since I have Aristo SS, the joiners are even worse, at least the brass can conform pretty well to the rails given sufficient "incentive". SS is just too springy. 

Even if you try soldering jumpers, use clamps on your switches to facilitate maintenance. 

Here's the pliers, the company that sold them is no longer in business... too bad..










Ed, buy one of these cars, they are inexpensive, do not gum up like the rubber blocks, and you can put scotchbrite or drywall sandpaper on them:










They are about $60 bucks... see my site on track cleaning.... you can search or just go through the menus.

Regards, Greg


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 01/14/2009 7:34 PM
You can try tightening up the joiners, but I would not do this without removing the joiner, cleaning it, greasing it, and putting it back on. 

I did find a perfect tool for doing this, and since I have Aristo SS, the joiners are even worse, at least the brass can conform pretty well to the rails given sufficient "incentive". SS is just too springy. 

Even if you try soldering jumpers, use clamps on your switches to facilitate maintenance. 

Here's the pliers, the company that sold them is no longer in business... too bad..










Ed, buy one of these cars, they are inexpensive, do not gum up like the rubber blocks, and you can put scotchbrite or drywall sandpaper on them:










They are about $60 bucks... see my site on track cleaning.... you can search or just go through the menus.

Regards, Greg





Who the hells got 60.00 bucks GEEEEEEEEEEZ you know some of us are on a{ bujet!!!!!!!!!} thats French by the way....he he he you dam track guys always havin issues..... he he he 
Nicky....


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep Nick, I'm throwing in the towel and going battery... ha ha ha. 

Regards, Greg


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Rayman4449 on 01/14/2009 5:11 PM
Interesting idea Cliff on the rubber bands. 


Raymond




Ray, that is how we connected the track at the show on front Street in November, it worked great.

I don't think some of the people on here read what Ed wrote; " I want to keep the rack portable".

If he would use the rail joiners in conjunction with the home mde rubber bands, he won't have any problems and it will still be portable.

Cliff


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 01/14/2009 9:13 PM
Yep Nick, I'm throwing in the towel and going battery... ha ha ha. 

Regards, Greg





HA... ya that'll be the day!!! battery power is good for my TV r/c ...he he he








Nick


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You are right Cliff, the portability got overlooked. 

I'll stick to my rail clamps, use SJ is the best in my opinion, there is a guy on ebay selling what looks like hillman clones, less expensive, or you could get the new Aristo ones, the piece of extruded metal with 2 screws. You get what you pay for with these, but even the Aristo ones are serviceable if you are careful with them. 

If you are taking things down and putting back up, a hex head driver in a small electric screwdriver should be very convenient. I would not recommend the Aristo joiners for this, they are not sturdy, and repeated loosening and tightening will wear them out fast. 

Regards, Greg


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

That's another reason why I suggest clamps too, they in my opinion speed assembly of portable layouts and keep the rail ends together. 


Raymond


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't have to worry about conductivity if youz goes battery power!!!! Hee hee had to say it Best part of all I CHOOSE which way i want to run depending on the engine or setup i'm runnning that day. The Regal LOL


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Portable. Clamps are good for portability. For ease of installation, especially indoors, You can't beat the clamps that attach from the top, like the aristos. Set your cordless drill clutch to the lowest setting, and you're good to go, tightening the clamps from above. I would find tightening the hex heads on a platform layout tedious, unless you track had enough clearance so the hex key could go all the way around


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By blueregal on 01/15/2009 8:31 AM
Don't have to worry about conductivity if youz goes battery power!!!! Hee hee had to say it Best part of all I CHOOSE which way i want to run depending on the engine or setup i'm runnning that day. The Regal LOL


Of course, if you add steering and big knobby tires you could get rid of the track altogether. Just thnk, no cleaning track, no switches, no derailing, no concern of stringlining a train on a curve... hey you could make whatever radius turn the gap between cars could handle! 

Tie the front and rear axles of each car together with a cross connection and the cars will still follow each other just like those baggage cars at the airport do!


Yes-sir-ee! *Live Steam* Off Road _trains_! Now THAT is the future to look forward to!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray 
no,,, I was just sharing what Eds favorite past time was . there is nothing wrong with that. I am purposing not to use the B word on any thread unless others bring it up. 

I also know Ed very well and believe me, he WILL get me back. He has left me to listen to Carol ramble on for hours. Thats punishment enough.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

??????


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## Dan Moore (Jan 3, 2008)

Ed clean the wheels on the engines Put some paper towels on the track and PUT RUBBING ALCOHOL ON THE RAILS OVER THE TOWELS. DONT SOAK IT WHERE IT WILL CROSS BETWEEN THE 2 RAILS. SET YOUR ENGINE ON THE P TOWELS AND THROTTLE UP THE WHEELS WILL TURN AND CLEAN OFF THE GUNK.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well Ed, since the topic went from your question, to being harassed about cleaning your rails manually (!!) to suggestions on how to clean wheels, 

how will you solve your track continuity problems? 

Regards, Greg


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## Guest (Jan 18, 2009)

I went around the loops and blew all the black carbon dust out from in between the joints. Now all the trains run fine.









Oh, and Marty, I showed Carol your post about "rambling on". Boy is she mad at you! She also wasn't thrilled about the "women cleaning up after the men" comment you made in your email yesterday either. I'd be careful the next time you see her (Council Bluffs train show). She might just kick your ___.


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Ed,
Glad to see you solved your problem. you might want to go around and tighten up all the joiners to keep it from happening again.... and Marty i wouldnt want to be you the next time you meet his wife your IN TROUBLE... he he he


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

How portable is your track layout? If it is built in module form, you could solder the joints of the track that are permanently mounted and use clamps at the module connections. Am I still missing something?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Madman on 01/18/2009 4:25 PM
How portable is your track layout? If it is built in module form, you could solder the joints of the track that are permanently mounted and use clamps at the module connections. Am I still missing something? 


You don't even need to do that. On the Del Oro Pacific modular unit we just use LGB couplers between the modules and there is a "trailer-type" 2-wire connector that powers up the module and passes the power to the next one. We don't rely on the couplers for power transfer.


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