# Erection Drawings for an 0 4 2 T



## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm looking for erection drawings for a class 4455 Baldwin tank engine with 30 inch drivers. I have a couple of grainy photos (one of them is suspect) for the prototype engine but they are too poor to actually get measurements from.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Go to Degloyer should hae a copy, they have most all Baldwin records and PA RR Museum has a bunch too.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Come on guys, this is a family site.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Doh! Took me a minute to get that one...


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

That was my first thought Jason and while they have a lot of the OR&L equipment they do not have the errecting card for number 8, at least not online. I got an erecting card from them for no 6 Kauila and for no 45 Lanakila but I wrote them and requested that information, so I will probably have to do the same for no 8.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Sorry about using the wrong nomenclature but the term does have more applications than the one you eluded to


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

I can help if you define the class accurately, or give me a specific build number and date.
What we then do is go after the design number to see which other roads owned the locos of the exact same design, then we can look for any of those cards. It worked for Jeff Livingston a few years ago when I was able to find an elusive 2-8-0 card for him via tracking through another owner of the same design. When the card showed up it even has his railroad name listed on the card.

David.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

David, thanks hope all is well. I finally got the class. It is a 6 11 1/3 C class Baldwin. Bob Paoa located another photo on Sugar Trains Pictorial of Goliath that was misidentified as number 3 for the Kahului railroad. 
The erecting card is now moot. I should have enough to work on now. Here is an image of my progress so far.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Nice frames! Where did you get the drivers?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Some guy on the 7/8ths scale forums milled up a bunch of them.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Erection=Fabrication=Construction

Nothing to threaten any family there ;-)


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

This project has been put on hold while I work on understanding the running gear of a steam locomotive better.
To help facilitate this process I am building a 3D model of Kauila with working running gear and all.
Here are a couple of outtakes of my progress.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)




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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Really nice. Are you using the Trainz simulator?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Cliff, never heard of the trainz simulator, can you describe and provide me with a link?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here ya go,
http://www.trainzportal.com/

I could have sworn that was what you using. What are you using? 

I don't use or even have Trainz, but I have an acquaintance who is "building" the entire Virginia & Truckee in it, and that's how I learned of it. 

http://carsoncarshops.com/vt.htm


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm using a bunch of freeware apps.
Meshmixer (free) Modeling some of the more organic parts
Hexagon 2.6 ($19 from DAZ3D) Modeling the less organic parts and parts that require precession. This is also a great app for applying textures once you master it and get used to the crashes.
Daz3d studio 4 (free also from daz 3D) I use this primarily to animate the parts for testing purpuses. This also produces 3D renders in an assortment of film and video resolutions.
Lastly Accutrans (free) I use it to exclusively to scale the finished 3D files so that I can print parts out in various scales. So far I have successfully printed the frame. It should arrive Tuesday. I have the wheels on hold till I see if the 1:20 scale frame printed out successfully. If it did, then I will print the wheels and other parts that are hard to fabricate.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Wow, so you modeled those entire scenes? Bravo!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Ha! sorry to confuse you that way. Those are actual photos of what is left of the OR&L line in Hawaii. I just used camera angles to make it look like my loco was running on their track. In some instances I used track I made so that the wheel flanges would be coverd up right. 
I am working on a 3D model of Pearl City Depot though, it will be only a few hundred feet of track and the rest will be mat photos and camera angles. But for now the animations I am making only have a figure and a loco and sometimes track that I actually built the rest will be photos till I finish Pearl City Depot next year.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I see; hence the green screen test. 

If you eventually want to actually model your proto railway, it seems like Trainz would be a fun way to go. About $20 I think for the base package. 

But what you've done is really clever, sure fooled me!

Cliff


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Cliff, I'll look it up out of curiousity. But I enjoy building my own 3D models as much as I do the live models, so I probably will stick to the tools I'm using now. They are interesting to use and I feel more of connection to the model afterwards. I already have an inventory of structures, track, trees and people so when I'm ready it is a simple step of learning how to script stuff in DAZ3D


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Sounds awesome! As always, I'll look forward to seeing what you come with.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Richard.. I have been thinking about having metal parts printed too...you are inspiring me! I would do wheels and cylinders, perhaps even have the steam and exhaust ports made as part of the print. I could do long curved passages like the real ones.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Eric,
If you have the money that might be the way to go. I'm still waiting for my printed Kauila frames from Shapeways. They will arrive today or tomorrow. I'll let you know how they turn out.
If they turn out good, I already have a set of Kauila drivers to print. The cost without shipping for all 4 wheels without crankpin and with the holes for the axle and the crankpin is 75 USD. Really not too bad when you consider I can have a set of wheels with the counter weight already on that look extremely close to the proto type wheels.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Here is a link to the wheels. They aren't for sell yet, but you can view them. https://www.shapeways.com/product/3GW274VWS/1-20-32-driving-wheels-for-or-l-kauila


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Richard, 
Looks like you're doing them in stainless? SW says they'll have a pitted surface, but I don't know how much, never done it. So I'll be interested in your opinion of the printed wheels, and what you have to do to make them work for you. 
Cliff


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Cliff, thanks for pointing that out. If the frames arrive and they are too badly pitted then I will only print the hub and not the tire. That will reduce the price even further but it will require me to ask a friend with a bigger lathe than mine to mill some tires. It is win win situation either way for me because most of the actual prototypes I've seen close up all have casted hubs and the casting process translates a small amount of the characteristics of the sand with it and makes the finished product look slightly pitted.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll be! They printed out perfectly. Even the little nuts I put on the top for the reversing lever bearing printed. But Cliff was right these are pitted and have the look and feel of castings. That being said if the holes for the axels can be machined smooth I still might print the whole wheel out.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Nice job Richard, this will be a fun build to watch! 

That part looks great, is that the stainless? 

FWIW, as for drilling, at least on the plastic 3d printing, I go undersized on any hole that will receive a shaft (or any fit I care about), and just drill them out. Part of the reason is that the tolerance varies from machine to machine. Another reason is that the tolerances are different for the 3 axes, so one often ends up with a slightly oval hole. So yeah, I'm a big fan of post-print drilling. For the same reason, the shafts I've had printed are always sort of wonky. So I use brass rod or tube, tapped into the drilled 3DP hole.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, Cliff. Unfortunately I am learning that stainless is a bear to drill. I re sized my 7/8ths scale frames (with holes drilled) to 1:20.32 scale and submitted both for printing. I left out the journals for both and decided it would be cheaper to just machine 4 journals. 
I guess I should purchase a set of carbide tipped bits in the future and use this print for another model. Without the proper bits I'll never get a hole drilled into this stuff.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

BTW, as anticipated the 1:20.32 scale frames with holes have a lot of warnings, so I'm crossing my fingers that they can even be printed out successfully. I'm borderline on wall thickness where I have a hole but I knew that was the case which is why the first print was without holes.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Richard, not that it helps but at least you've demonstrated that the stainless prints out like stainless, in that it's not easy to drill. If it were, I'd kinda have doubts about its strength. 

Can you just make the holes slightly undersized, to reduce the drilling effort and make them pass the tests? 

Best luck!!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Cliff, good suggestion. I'll try that if this print fails. Right now they are so close to the wall thickness requirement it is worth a try. I've printed figures that had just as many wall thickness warnings in the past and they actually printed out fine. I'm hoping the same is true for the frames.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KPEE8GPX4/ho-scale-kauila
I figure the best way to determine which parts are going to print I may as well upload the whole model first. So I scaled it to HO scale and uploaded this evening. I was surprised that I only got a few warnings that can be easily fixed or ignored. I'm going to have printed in HO just for the H of it.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Bummer, shapeways rejected my 1:20 scale wheels during processing because the sprews that tied all 4 wheels together supposedly posed a structural issues. The solution they said was to take the sprews off, problem with that is they are going to charge me 15 more bucks and the polished nickle finish is already expensive..... I have 3 options:
- fork out the 15 bucks and remove the sprews
- cast it in regular stainless steel and accept the bronze finish
- do the tires separtely. 
Hummmmm


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

That is a bummer. Maybe they can't do the polishing process properly, with them tied together? 

But if they did, you might end up with an unpolished spot, when you broke them apart. But maybe you put the sprues on back sides, where you didn't care? 

Either way, I'm looking forward to the results. And wow, what a nice overall model, that's beautiful!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, that is what I thought they meant when they said structural integrity during post processing. The part where the sprues is is on a painted face of the tire. I was going to paint a white circle on that area. I'm still moving my figure collection to Shapeways, so I have my hands full. I'll try to make a decision about the 3 options while I convert the figures.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Y'know, with the title of this thread, I'm really surprised that no Spammers have tried to post an ad for Viagra. 

Seriously though, that is some really nice digital modeling, Richard. I hope you are able to work out an acceptable means for printing the wheels.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Carbide drill bits worked fantastic with 3 in 1 oil. It was like drilling maple or walnut. I got the tip to use 3 in 1 from the shapeways forum. The smaller holes were drilled out with regular hss bits and 3 in 1 oil. Not is easy as the larger holes and I lost one bit pushing it too much. It snapped off in the hole while I was backing out. Then next small hole I took it very, very slowly and had no problems.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Glad you had success!
Is that the SS material? I really like the surface finish.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

yep. I'm waiting for another set of 1mm bits for the smaller holes. Should be here by Tuesday, then I'll finish drilling out all the holes and move on to assembly.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Sweet got both frames from Shapeways today. Even though I found a method for drilling out this material with carbide bits and 3in1 oil it is much nicer that all the holes are predrilled. I was especially elated to see that all the nuts and bolts were printed out.
Next step is to resubmit the wheels so they can be printed and at the same time I'm going to have the connecting rods printed.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm very impressed with how well the drivers printed out in Polished Nickle Steel. It was well worth the price.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I separated all the parts and polished the wheels this morning.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Beautiful work, and I'm enjoying seeing how well your parts are turning out.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thread Cutting oil will work better than 3in1, less drill wander. High sulfur content protects.
John


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Not on this material. I've tried it.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Well shut my mouth! lol
Carry on!
Beautiful work.
John


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

John,
This material is so tough to drill it earned a whole thread on the Shapeways forum filled with horror stories of broken bits and hours of fruitless machining. Fortunately someone found the magic combo. 3 in 1 oil and carbide bits. Like you I was doubtful but the results were miraculous. I couldn't even penetrate the surface with standard hss and cobalt bits using cutting fluid but the carbide and 3 in 1 oil cut like a hot knife through butter. I guess it has something to do with the fabrication process of fusing the steel powder with bronze in a furnace.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

BTW, I used speeds ranging from slow to as fast as my press and lathe would go on all bits except the carbide. I drilled at the slowest speed on my Taig Lathe. I have a milling attachment that converts the lath in to a small mill.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks for showing us your work. 3D is opening so many possibilities ...
John


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Now that's tough material.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I checked the wheels this afternoon and to my surprise they were perfectly true. I am sure this is a fluke. The printing process for metals is so risky it is proned to error. I first tested each wheel on my lathe, and then mounted them on wooden axels and layed the frames on top of the axles. Then I pushed the assembly down 5' of G scale track and detected no sign of wobble in the frames. 
The only bummer today was discovering that 1- only half the holes in my 1:20 scale frames printed out opened and 2- the bits I ordered on Amazon are actually just HSS bits and not carbide as advertised


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

After I tapped some 0.8 UNM threads in the frames for the crossbeam and the crosshead saddle I couldn't resist test fitting some of the old parts from by Ruby bash. The cab is much too big. I'll have to rebuild a new one the right size. The front beams look good though and so do the back ones. 








I was surprised at how easy it was to tap the threads for the 0.8 UMD hex bolts I got from Scale Hardware. I just used a tap I got from Scale Hardware and cutting fluid. While it took a while, it was an unusual amount of time.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I fabricated the crosshead saddle and mounted it and the front beam to the frame. In retrospect I wish I had printed out a frosted Ultra detailed template of the saddle instead of transfering dimensions from the 3D model to brass. Of course it would be best if I could have just printed it, but the material would have been too thin to print and much more expensive than making it out of brass.








I also did a final adjustment on the driver widths.The first time I put them on the wooden axles I used the dimensions of some Sierra Valley Wheels. As I was checking dimensions on the assemble chasis I found that the drivers were too far from the frames and the wheel width was almost an 1/8th greater than my 3D plans. 
This puzzled me till I took measurements from my Ruby drivers and found that they were actually 2 1/32 inch wide and the flange distance was 1.6142". This is narrower than the Sierra Valley wheel sets for my trucks but closer to the 3D model. 
Seeings how my Ruby performs well on the track I adjusted the wheels on their wooden axles to the same dimensions as my 3D plans which were the same as the Ruby's and tested them on a 24" radias track. Even without journals the performed very nicely. The next step will be to make the bracket for the fire box and order some prints of the rocker arms for the timing valves. 
I am still not absolutely certain I will be able to pull this off in Live Steam because I'm already finding problems with the diamter of the timing rods. .786 mm if I go off my models dimensions. This is like wire so I decided to go a minimu of 1.5 mm instead and will look for vendor with steel rod in small dimension like that. 
Still, if this ends up as an electric it will be a good test run for the 7/8ths live steam version. That scale will definatly be doable in Live steam.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I snapped my only 00-90 tap on the 1:20 scale frames the other day with only 2 holes to go. So while I am waiting for replacements (plural) I started working on the 7/8ths scale live steam version. 
That is the cool part of 3D printing, you can have two different scales but the exact same parts. The wheels were not printed though, I bought these from JK about a month or so before I finished the 7/8ths scale 3D wheels. They are pretty darn close to the ones I made in 3D though.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Made the journals today. I used some 1/2" square brass stock. I milled the slots for the weys using a 3/32" end mill. The fit was good, but the weyes were printed out and needed a little filing. I'm not sure I am going to have sprung drivers, but if I do, I'll have to do a little more work on the weys so that the travel of the journals is smooth.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Really beautiful work Richard. 
About that tap that broke. Did you use a pilot drill first, or was the pilot hole printed into the part? Just curious. 
Cliff


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Cliff, the 1:20.32 frames had pilot holes printed, but I had to drill them out to the proper diameter. The tap broke because I was pushing too hard and after tapping 22 holes it was probably getting dull. 
I was also over confident because the material maybe harder than **** to drill but it taps fairly easily all things considered.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

OK, good to know, thanks Richard.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I decided to print the smoke box pedistal too. It took a while to convert the original that was only intended for a 3D render and as a place holder to one that could be printed without falling apart, but I finally got it.
I'm doing my first print in 1:20.32 scale as there is not enough money in my paypal account at this moment to print the 7/8ths scale one. Shapeways only gives you the money you earn once a month and only if you make more than 30 bucks. So, I may not be able to print for a couple of months because I've made a commitment not to do this out of pocket and only use the money I make from selling prints.
At least I'll have the 1:20 scale one to work with.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm planing out the cylinders and the eccentrics now using Dockstadders program. 








This came in the mail yesterday to inspire me to work faster. It is the second HO print of Kauila and it turned out pretty darn good this time.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Super nice! 
That's great how you're making your Shapeways work pay for itself.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Cliff. My main goal is to not go in to the hole like I did on the castings.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I revised the domes and uploaded them. I found a clearer image and was able to pick up on more detail.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

If this prints out, it will safe me a lot of time since all I will have to make is the reflector and the chimney and they are both time consuming enough.








This smokebox door will aslo be a time saver


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

My first stainless steel print of the pedistal arrived today. It was only .005" smaller than the original 3D file.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I've been making small improvements on the parts. I've added a slot for the sanddome lever. I plan on using the 7/8ths scale sanddome to house a mechanical style oiler. When the sanding lever is pulled, then oil will be injected into the steam line. At least that is what I am considering. At the very least it will look more like the prototype with a nice slot for the lever.


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## Belpaire (Feb 15, 2008)

I have to say I am impressed by your work and you have inspired me to try my hand at 3d modeling. It is very satisfying but can also be very frustrating.

I don't want to hijack your thread and I can create a new subject if you would prefer but I would like to pick your brain regarding the subject.

I am working on a smokebox cover for a potential project and was concerned when I read that the Shapeways stainless steel can vary in size by as much as 5% from the design. I wouldn't want to put down cash on a piece of metal and not have it fit the copper tube I designed it for. What has your experience been with it?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

My prints have been about 1/64" under in all dimensions which is quite a bit less than 5%, but they do say plus or minus 5% so perhaps 1/64" is an average. I have printed 3 sets of frames, 1 set of drivers, and 1 pedistal. And so far they are consistently 1/64" under, but I wouldn't bet on it. 
My designs don't depend on a great deal of accuracy though. I can afford that 5% here and there because I can make adjustments as needed since the prints are only parts of the whole engine.
My concern is the Shapeways castings, which I am seriously considering for the cylinders if I can figure a way to get the costs down.
I can't find anywhere were they give you the shrinkage % on the castings and wondering if they make that adjustment in the shop. I need to contact them and ask.
BTW, your smoke box front is sweet. I would be concerned about thickness though if I were you. Any object greater than 76mm in any direction needs to be a minimum of 1.5 mm thick and that number increases with the size.








Here is my lastest progress model. I keep adding more and more detail. I shrank this down to 1:48 scale and hollowed out more pieces to make printing even cheaper. The first time I uploaded an 0 scale model it was nearly 800 bucks to print and wasn't as detailed. This one is only around 140 bucks. I'm getting better at figuring ways to economize on materials.


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## Belpaire (Feb 15, 2008)

Thanks for the insight. I would hate to design the thing 5% oversize and then it turns out to be 5% larger than that. It would probably make sense to make it slightly oversize and turn it down a hair to match the tubing.

My smokebox cover is thicker than the rendering implies, being 0.04" at the thinnest. It passes the tests, with the exception of the hinges which keep turning hollow when I upload them.

Your plastic model is fantastic. Your thin parts pass the tests? The pilot supports and slide valve extensions look very wiry. 

This is very cool stuff.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

It can only be printed in Frosted Ultra Detail successfully. But I have printed the same model out successfully in HO scale with only a few minor changes to thicken parts that kept coming off.








HO print in Frosted Ultra Detail


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Finally! A part I can afford to cast in bronze.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I can print this out in its entirety for the 1:20 scale plastic one but for the 7/8ths live steamer I'm going to have to just print the back head and door in stainless.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I printed out the rear boiler mount in Stainless Steel for my 7/8ths scale live steamer. It arrived yesterday and I tested fitted it to the frame. The fit was perfect. I printed out some plastic parts as well for the 1:20.32 scale static model.








Even though there is a bit of stepping in the print I am satisfied with the detail. With a little squadron puddy and paint it will be fine. More importantly this print allowed me the opportunity to test the stroke on my model in real life instead of in a 3D environment. The stroke is perfectly scaled to 1:20.32 so it should scale out in 7/8ths as a 7/8" stroke with room to spare front and back.








I printed this out in 7/8ths scale accidentally thinking it was 1:20.32. Oh well


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Rick
Have you purchased your own 3D printer or are you still dealing with Shapeways.??
Noel


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

You're getting great detail from your stainless parts Richard, wow. Is the resolution as good as, or better than, the SFP? 

Looks like you printed the SFP in black; or did you paint it? Reason I ask is that when I've ordered SFP in a color, it was merely dyed on the surface (post-printing), as opposed to using granulated colored nylon to begin with. The dye easily scratched off for me, which obviated my choice of that process. Your thoughts?

I think you're really inspiring a lot of folks with your build, keep 'er going!

Best,
Cliff


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Noel, no I don't have the cash and I haven't seen anything that prints near the resolution I'm looking for yet.
Cliff, thanks. The resolution really depends on the print orientation for Stainless steel. The mount was printed with the face up, so no layer lines are visible.
I reached the same conclusions as you on the black strong material. I didn't have any issues with the color running, it was the layer lines that ruined it for me. If there are visible layer lines, I need to address those issues by priming and sanding, so if I'm going to do that, why pay a buck more per print for the black. And you are right it is just a die the add during the printing process. Shapeways is currently offering a black ABS material, but it is really expensive. I ordered the cab the backhead, and a headlamp today, this time all in White Strong Flexible material. I won't bother with the black or any colored material any more.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Richard for the further info. 

Were you able to request the preferred orientation? Or just get lucky? 

Another thing with the dye, that I've learned the hard way: if you don't like the color, it's hard to paint! 

A little story. I was building an architectural model last fall that needed a bunch of (106) red theater seats. So to save painting time, I ordered them in red. But the color was really off -- like, a very weird pink. Hideous. So, after about 10 coats of red spray paint, the seats finally looked ok. Differing part orientations meant the paint soaked in differently from some seats vs. others, so it took many coats to get things uniform. Frustrating! If I'd just ordered them in white, it would have been a relatively easy paint job!

Then there was the black part job.... ugh.

So, I'm in agreement with you, in ordering white from here on!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

No, they don't let you choose the orientation. On Stainless steel though they are forced to orient the piece in the most efficient way they can to pick it up. The printed unsintered piece is so soft, they can't turn it on edge, so a little consideration for that fact during designing, helps force their hand to turn the piece in the direction you need for a clean print. 
Keep in mind though 3D printing has been around for a while it is still in it's infancy. We are getting in on the ground floor so to speak so we have to pioneer the direction of 3D printing too. Building models that challenge the printers, gives the manufacturers goals to strive for.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

The 5th and final coat of primer is on the cylinders. There are some deeper layer marks that I will have to fill and spot prime before I apply the final coats of olive green.
I have found that the way to avoid 14 layers of paint is to lay down 4 layers of primer first and let it sit over night. These are liberal coats and I don't sand in between coats. The strong flexible material is notorious for sucking up paint like a sponge so before I sand I make sure it has it's fill. I don't mind the granuarity, I focus on smoothing layer lines and pores that indicate the material is still drinknig primer.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I like your approach, with the multiple prime coats. What primer do you use?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Rustoleum, multi use primer.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

The first 2 coats of Poly Scale Acrylic Engine Black paint. I sanded the 5th coat of primer and I sanded between each coat of Engine Black.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Waiting for paint to dry parts to print so I decided to start sizing and fitting the decals. I started with the tank lettering for the 1:20.32 scale model first. I rolled a piece of scrap metal to the size of the watertank then taped a printed out texture to it, then I placed the painted steam dome on top to check the effect.
I might try my hand out printing the decals on my ink jet. I've never done that so I'm not sure what the results will be like. At the very least I will use these sized textures as stencils and do the decaling by hand.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I have been painting and sanding the SE headlamp I mistakenly ordered along with the 1:20 scale prints. I test fitted it on my SE Ruby bash this morning. I will order a couple of these in brass or stainless steel. One for Kauila live steam 3D build and one for my Ruby bash.


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