# Rotozip question



## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I just bought my RZ20 yesterday and went to use the diamond cutting wheel it came with to cut some porcelain tile in the basement. I tightened it on securely and when I even lightly touch the tile, the cutting wheel stops spinning and comes to an immediate stop. I tried using 25 and 30 speed and same result. It won't spin when entering material but spins fine when not engaged in cutting. I sent this email to the company and am awaiting a response.

The other thing that I think could have improved the tool is if the blade guard were made of acrylic or some type of see-through material, as you are cutting blind unless you get close and look sideways at the saw, which is dangerous even with face protection. 

I can see the tool being used to cut rail, metal and wood for scratchbuilding.

I already have an old Dremel 295 model. Was pondering the 400 Dremel but the Rotozip puts out 5 or 6 amps, which was the deciding factor as the best dremel puts out only about a third or a fourth of the amperage, and the Rotozip can be used for heavier duty projects around the house as well as train projects-----assuming I can get it to work.

The RZ20 cost $160 at Home Depot

Cheers

Dave Vergun


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I used my Rotozip two days ago to cut SS rail in ballasted track. No problem. 
I've got a simple on/off one speed fits all zipper, I've never had a lack of power. 
Take it back and get another. it should work right. 

When cutting rail, I found it helpfull to put the blade beyond the rail and cut back to me. I used the fibre wheel and it pushed a burr along the edge that snapped off with pliers on the foot and scrapped off the sides. A dress with a file and all done. 

John


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

thanks, I'll post what the company says if they ever say anything. 

I watched the DVD that came with it, and John, you're right, when cutting with the wheel, you must start at the top and pull it toward you. As far as bits go, it's generally clockwise.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

The company was very nice and responsive. I feel embarrassed to say this but I had attached the blade attachment on wrong, failing to depress the button that the arm goes on.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Directions? I don't need no stupid directions! 

Ah to live and learn! 
I bet that won't happen again! 

Trying to push the cut showed me very quickly that wasn't the way.... that was my learning experience! 
I bought mine because of the close to the edge blade meant I could cut wood next to a rafter to replace termited boards....I've found other uses as the need arises. 

John


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a rotary saw, similar to the ones designed for the Rotozip, that fits my drill press. (Mr East Broad Top put me on to them.) We used them to cut additional windows in an Accu J&S coach. We could have bought an RZ, but the bit worked fine on plastic in an ordinary drill.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Yeah, I deserve heaps of ridicule, I brought it on myself  

BTW, the instructions call for using 25-30,000 rpms but the tool can be slowed to 15-20K. I know that RZ's bits and blades are strong and made for high rpms, but has anyone tried using bits or blades not made by RZ at slower speeds (for which they're rated). 

While RZ quality is high, they are somewhat pricey. I know they have to be 7" diameter blades or perhaps smaller.


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