# USAT GP38-2 Long hood removal ????



## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, maybe I'm not so good at searching the fora or archives.. 

I recall a thread regarding the removal of the long hood of USA Trains GPs.. It can't be that hard... 

Somebody point in the right direction... 

I'm seriously lookin' to repaint my Amtrak into late ICG (Grey pinstripe)... 

Clue me in please...


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd like to make this... 










Look like this...


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, Are you planning remove single Dynamic Brake Fan by the Long hood? you should unscrew Dynamic Brake Fan roof cover if you can make non-Dynamic Brake for your ICG. 
on my Conrail SD40-2 have 4-screw hold the Dynamic Brake roof cover on the long hood.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

No, I'll leave the dynamic brake in place, I just need to simply know how to disassemble the long hood & cab from the chassis.


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

It look a same on the long hood dave.


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

The entire body shell is removed at the same time, cab & all. Is that what you were asking?


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry Dave i was confuse about that.. But Yes under the main frame you need unscrew the long hood, cab, and the nose! it come off whole body body shell and cab. 

Here a photos 










Here the whole body shell come off on one piece.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Ahhh, that's what I'm looking for.. Do I need to remove the trucks to access any of the screws?


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, if you have room for long screwdriver make easy unscrew! but i dont know about your GP38-2. I dont have USA trains GP-38-2 yet. But on my SD40-2 i do remove the truck for i can get in the screw hole for unscrew.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

I got it.. I just spent about 20 minutes taking it apart and puting it all back together. Man, there are a lot of small screws.. what a pain.. But now I know how to get the job done. 

Thanks all.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 
You need a philips screw driver with a blade about 10" long. I found that to be the easiest. Their are 2 on the fuel tank,4 screws under it, 4 under the rear truck, 2 under the front truck (front axle) and about 3-4 smaller ones in the front on the sides. 
If you move the trucks just right you can take them all out with out removing the trucks. I magnetized my screw driver so the screws came out with the driver once they were loose.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Dave, 

I have the same loco that I did up as an FEC GP-38. The advice about removing the hood is correct. I got a set of really long mini screwdrivers from Harbor Freight--made all the difference. I gutted mine and cut it up a bit--so if ya got questions while doing up that good looking ICG unit send me a message, maybe I can help. 

Here is a photo of mine: 









Matt


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## bull (Jan 28, 2008)

If you measure the width of the long and short hoods they are about a scale 2-3 feet to wide. Reminds me of the old ho athearn models. Also door windows are to to narrow. Noticed it during a massive rebuild I am doing it takes a lot of work to detail a usat to match a aristo detail wise. Kind of off your subject but thought I would put it out there. B-


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

Wow your FEC looks great!


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

There is an article on our club web site on how to add battery car MU plugs to a USA Trains GP38-2. The article included the following disassembly method. 

REMOVING THE HOODS AND CAB 

Remove the screws holding the coupler brackets and couplers to the frame. Set the couplers aside for now. Install the coupler bracket screws back in the frame. 










Unplug the four wires from a motor block. Gently spread the side frame and slip one end of an axle from its bushing. Repeat for the other end. Repeat the process for the other axle and remove the motor block. Remove the excess black grease from the ends of the axles. Repeat the process for the other motor block. Set the motor blocks aside for now and wash the black grease from your hands. 










Remove the two small screws (indicated by the yellow arrows) from the base of the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank and set aside for now. Install the fuel tank screws back in the frame so they don’t get lost. 










Remove the twelve long screws holding the hoods and cab to the frame. These are hidden in twelve deep holes. Four (circled in yellow) are inside the side frames under the long hood. 










Four (circled in yellow) are under the fuel tank. 










The last four (circled in yellow) are inside the side frames under the cab. 
Lastly remove the four short screws (indicated by the yellow arrows) that hold the battery boxes to the frame. Their heads are not recessed. 










Turn the locomotive over. Carefully lift the shell from the front of the long hood. The whole shell (long hood, cab, battery boxes and short hood) will lift off as one piece. 










CAUTION: Do not lift the shell off too far or the wiring may unplug. 
Install the four screws back in the battery boxes and the twelve screws back in the long and short hoods.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Matt, 
I agree, fantastic job on your FEC. Looks real.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

THANKS PAUL !!!! 

That's what I was looking for. I knew it was out there somewhere and I'd seen that before I just couldn't for the life of me recall where. That's exactly what i was looking for.. 

Thanks. 


Leon... Like the future paint job?


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, I am actually aware that I am replying to a _twelve_ year old thread! 
But it makes the most sense to ask the question in this thread, rather than start a new one:

I bought a USA Trains GP38-2 used on ebay (years ago) and im starting to work on it now.
I bought is as "non-running, dont know what is wrong with it", and as advertised, it doesnt run.

Using this thread, I got the long-hood off. All the wires inside appear there, but disconnected!
Some of the plugs are obvious (one black connector to the only other black connector) but there are other white connectors that I cant tell what they re-attach to.
some plugs appear idential, with no distinguishing markings.
Anyone have a wiring diagram that can help me hook things back up?

looks like Paul's post (Post #15) used to have photos, but all the photos are gone now. 

thanks,
Scot


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## bob7094 (Jan 3, 2008)

The installation guide for the Airwire decoder may provide some clues: http://www.cvpusa.com/doc_center/r2_new_GP38_Install_Gd_web.pdf


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Scot,
It also may be helpful to take a look at some of the pictures at section "*GP38 Disassembly*" in vignette for
"_USA Trains GP 38 - Kadee Centerset Coupler Install, Abandoning Traction Tires & Various Mod's_"
-Ted


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