# Bending SS track



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

First, my apologies for not being able to search the archives for what I'm sure is a common topic. Even searching "bending track" on the website gives me a "no results" message. I must be doing something wrong.

Here's my question. I want to get a simple loop of track down before the snow flies. I've decided on Stainless Steel, code 250, which means Sunset Valley. Their rail bender requires bending each rail individually, then assembling on the ties. I realize that SS is a bit difficult to work with, but couldn't I use a TRACK bender to form the bend I need all at once? With my roadbed ready, it'd be a lot easier to bend the track in place, rather than bend a rail, walk it out to the yard to check it, then walk back and bend some more, etc., etc.

No?

jack


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Here ya' go Jack

Train-LI-USA EasyBend Duo Track[/b]


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Right! I've read good things about this (rather pricey) unit, but never any specific reference to SS track. Since I expect to put in a large amount of track over the next few years, I don't mind biting the bullet to get a quality bender. As long as it can handle that nasty ol' stainless. 

Thanks for your recommendation.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, it works great even on code 332 SS track. When you order the Train-Li bender make sure you get the right size rollers for code 250 track. 

-Brian


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Jack,

I used the Train-Li track bender to curve over 500 feet of Aristo-Craft stainless steel track. I am totally pleased with the results. There are a few tricks in that you may want to stagger the ends so the end of one rail is supported by the solid rail of the other track.

Also curving the ends of the straight track is problematic. Others may have a better solution but in my case the curves were 15 foot diameter or wider and I was able to lead into the curve with straight track. I also used clamps to rigidly hold the ends while bending and I avoided bending both track ends together but instead always mixed one end with a continuous track when bending. My track was not code 250. If anything I would expect code 250 to be even easier to work with.

When buying clamps to use with the bender the clamps MUST remain low enough for the bender to pass over them so the choice of brand and model should be considered (I have no specific recommendations for clamps and I actually used the same clamps over and over and over with the bender.

The Train-Li is the only bender I have ever used so I cannot make comparisons with other brands but I will say that I MUCH prefer the dual track bending. At times I was even able to bend track that was not in ties when I bent it but that can be tricky if you are not careful. 

When you cut stainless steel and your cutting blade was used on non-stainless materials you will get rust at the end of your cuts so it is best to use a new blade or a blade that was only used on stainless steel when cutting.

The same is true of a wire brush or wheel. Use a wire brush that is *non-ferrous* and that has never been used on ferrous metals or once again you will get rust.

Regarding price, I was going to save money by reselling my Train-Li after I used it. I actually had a buyer before I even used the Train-Li but I regretfully backed out of the sale because the Train-Li has been so useful that I cannot part with it. It has actually paid for itself by recurving excessively worn used brass track I bought where I recurved the track in the opposite direction moving the worn inner rails to the outside.

Jerry


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