# What is the best DCC system across the board in G scale



## arthur (Dec 27, 2007)

Hello all,
I have been away from the hobby for almost 7 years. Fortunately, I saved all my trains. I have several engines from most companies of the day, LGB, USA , Aristocraft and MTH. I did buy the MTS system back then. Is there one company that comes to mind today, that would fit into all these engines? It would be nice if I did not need separate systems for each brand. Would the Piko system or anyone else you know of, fit the bill. Thank you in advance for any advice. Cheers, Arthur


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Today it seems that NCE is pretty well accepted in the US. The PH-10R gives you 10 Amps and is wireless for about $600

http://www.reindeerpass.com/ncepowerpro-10rdccset.aspx


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

I have the NCE PH-10 system, bought on the advice of several forum members (from Reindeer Pass, no less  ) and have been happy with it. Ease of use seems good and plenty of power. I've appreciated the wireless cab, too.

I have decoders fitted in Piko, Hartland, LGB, and Aristo units. Most of my locomotives were bought second hand, so it's a similar situation to yours (I think). Though it's not "plug-and play" like it is if you buy new locos with decoder sockets in them, it wasn't hard to install the six I've done thus far. The Internet is a wonderful thing, and somewhere out there in the ether were installation instructions for most every loco I own.

The only downside for me was that I couldn't afford to do all the locos at once, since I was working on the layout at the same time. Buying track, the PH-10, plus that many decoders in one fell swoop would have been a little outside my budget, and it means some don't get run since I'm not set up for switching between DC and DCC. I've been using Zimo decoders, not cheap but lots of features and they seem pretty robust. I'm slowly working towards having everything DCC, but it will be a while


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Which system is best is like asking us what your next vehicle purchase should be!!

If you are running slow engines (Old steam from the 1800's ) then a system of 18 to 21 volts is great.
OTOH if you want full speed of modern diesels then 24 volts or more is needed.

Then there is the ease of programming. MTS was blind programming and multiple steps at that. You could net read out what was in the decoder unless you had the 55045 computer module and a Microsoft software based computer.

I use a ZImo and all decoder addresses are direct read and writes in the same operation. Also I have 24 volts to the track and can be 28 if I use a slightly higher voltage transformer output. BUT now I have to watch decoder ratings.. Older MRC decoders are 21 volts (and I would guess there are others) and should not be used on my system.

So, what do you need for voltage and current. There are 5 amp systems for those with limited amounts of rolling stock that will be run. NCE as mentioned above has 5 and 10 amp systems, MTS was 5 amp but only 14 speed steps and control of 10 functions.

Newest decoders have up to 30 functions available, and zimo decoders have 35 volt ratings even in the HO line.

So, you decide./...car or pickup truck, 2 passenger corvette or van for 12 people, 5th wheel for a trailer...... Motor home with a g sacale layout on the roof.


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

Yep, it's why Baskin Robbins has 31 flavors! As Dan said, one size does not fit all.

My input would be to choose a system that will be able to be used with free JMRI software. This makes programming decoders a piece of cake as you don't need a special decoder ring to figure out CV values. Everything on the screen is spelled out in English. Not only that, but if you have a smart phone (Android or iCrap) you have a free wireless throttle that also is very easy using JMRI app.

I started with Digitrax 8 amp chief, and struggled with programming and running using their low end throttle. I needed to remember all the sequences for programming an running, loco address etc. With JMRI, it is so easy to pick the loco by name, photo, description and change any of the CV values in an understandable user interface.

I have an old WinXP computer on my wifi network that connects to the Digitrax via a PR3 USB interface. My cell phone connects to it though my home wifi and I use the phone to control 3 trains at once. All the functions are available on the phone and labeled in English (horn, bell, whistle, dynamic brake, coupler clack, etc, etc). Easy peasy!

JMRI can be used to automate the entire railroad, just the decoder pro interface for programming and the throttle app are all I use it for. Here is the website to find out about the software, http://jmri.org/


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

As was mentione before,there is no "best DCC" system, all depends what features and capabilities are important to you.

So the best thing is to read up on the various systens available for Large Scale, there are around 8 to 10, make a list of requirements what you want now and in the future,prioritize the list and then see which systems fit best.

I personally place a lot of emphasis on the user interface, ie the throttle and I would also take a closer look at systems that can handle mfx decoders as well as DCC.

Knut


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## arthur (Dec 27, 2007)

Thankx for all the input. You have given me great ideas to consider. For Mr. Pierce, Mercedes GL350 Bluetec. The car question is easy. Trains have so many options. HA! Thanks again. Arthur


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Arthur, do you still have your MTS unit? The reason I ask is that if it is the MTSIII, another option for you might be to add a Massoth navigator handheld for your wireless controller. You would have to buy the navigator plus the wireless receiver, but at least you'd have the best throttle (in my opinion) and the robust MTS central station and power supply. That way if you found you needed more than the 5A you could upgrade the central station to Massoth someday (who also make the Piko unit).

In the meantime, though, as Knut pointed out, do lots of reading so you get a feel for what everyone offers and figure out what your needs are for power. You might find that if you only run two or three trains at a time the MTSIII unit works perfectly for you--it does for me.

Keith


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I do like the Massoth throttle.


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## arthur (Dec 27, 2007)

Sorry, I was not clear. I have the MTH system, not the LGB system. Arthur


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## Bigjohn (Mar 26, 2020)

*Piko DCC System*

I purchased a complete Piko system including remote switch control a few months ago. The original setup works well. The problems started when I tried adding another Navigator (Piko for handheld remote). 1) It's supposed to automatically link up with a change in the ID but didn't. 2) They state the Central Station can operate up to eight Navigators but what they don't say is the wireless receiver (35018) can only handle four. There is only one place to connect only one wireless receiver. Right now I am waiting for Piko in California to get back with me on why I cannot connect two or more Navigators to my system. Piko sent me a third Navigator to try but that failed also. In speaking with Piko I understand there are three other people who have this same problem.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Note, I choose the Zimo 20amp system at 24 volts to the track (POwer input is 30 volt).
It is expensive, but has many bells and whistles other systems are missing. 



2 outputs..8 amp and 12 amp which can be programmed for voltage and current limits or tied together for 20 amps.
Also has hard wired internet, 3 handheld wired jacks, range of over 300 feet wireless, colored touch screen handhelds, and many future options to come.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, bringing a 5 year old thread back to life, I used the NCE system for years, and liked the service and menus and ease of use. I still like it a lot, but my Zimo system improves on everything, except readibility in full sun as the NCE was a mono LCD system and color LCDs cannot be seen as easliy in bright sun.


But as Dan says, and the title of this thread is the "best" across the board, I pick the Zimo, in fact I have 2 of them.


Greg


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## mjll1958 (Jan 2, 2016)

*Jmri*

tried to download JMRI into my Mac and the computer said it could not guarantee security of this app. Has anyone else had this problems?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, but could be that the JMRI people refuse to pay the Apple "toll" for approved software.... if you have issues, you should go to the JMRI forum, very few people here running it, and fewer on a mac...


Greg


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## bigemike (Jan 18, 2021)

I just bought into the ESU Ecos 2.1 They also have a cab control model. Lots of expandability and it talks all of the different languages 
I will be updating and vlogging the setup and use of it as I dig in.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

This is an interesting thread, started in 2015, and then petered out...

Then some activity 10 months ago, clearly the poster that revived it did not notice a 5 year old thread.

And today a new poster....

I'm not sure I want to repeat all the stuff in the original thread, and clearly what is the "best" without any criteria means different things to different people.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Another feature of the Zimo system is the 12 amp output can be set for G scale at 24 volts, and the 8 amp (programming output) can be set to 14 volts for HO or other smaller scales (both oupputs have programmable current and voltage settings). One power supply plus command station can run all your trains if in multiple scales!!! Note programming G scale Zimo decoders is done at 14 volts, in fact the ZIMO MX10 drops to 14 on the programming track output when programming decoders.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And you can combine the outputs in the MX10 to a 20 amp output, My needs exceeded 10 amps per train, so even a 12 amp system could be marginal. 

A system that keeps evolving with new features and bug fixes.

Greg


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