# LGB 2055 & 2085d questions



## Gareth-2015 (Dec 29, 2014)

Hi Members! 

I've enjoyed lurking at these forums for some time and finally decided to jump in.

I've been wanting a new engine for my ceiling layout and these two seem like good, solid choices but I had a few questions I was hoping some of the more experienced LGB guys could answer.

The local train store has the 2055 for $400 and the 2085d for $500. My issue comes from my track having a few of the R1 curves that sometimes wreak havoc on the larger locomotives. I know LGB says that all their engines will work on R1s but my first run mogul almost locks up on them.

My questions are:
1. Is that a decent deal on either of the engines? (both are new-unused) I try to support the local mom-pop hobby stores when I can.
2. From your experience, could either handle the R1 curves?

Thanks so much for your help! 

Gareth


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't have all LGB engine numbers memorized and I'm not likely to look them up.. What engines are you talking about?

A little more information would help.

Those are four digit numbers. Those are older engines. LGB has been using Five digit numbers for many years.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

I'm not sure about the prices (I bought a used 2085D Mallet from eBay for less than $300) but I can say that the Mallet can definitely negotiate R1 curves. I have a siding with back-to-back R1 switches that it handles with no problems.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The LGB 2055 is the White Pass Alco diesel. The 2085 is the German (?) 0-6-6-0 articulated. 

Both will work around a 2' radius (4' diameter) curve, for no other reason than that's LGB's mantra. I've seen both run around those curves, and neither seemed to exhibit any issues. I've owned neither, so I'm speaking only from seeing them run on others' railroads or at shows. I defer to those who actually run them on those curves for detailed comments. Personally, I find almost everything has "issues" of some sort going around 2' radius curves when compared to wider curves, even the really small stuff. I've got an 0-6-2T running around my tree on 2' curves, and it doesn't like them near as well as it likes my 5' radius curves outside. It runs just fine, but you can tell it's working harder on the curves.

In terms of price, $400 for the Alco is a pretty good price. I've been keeping my eyes open for a basket-case one because I want the trucks for a future scratchbuild project. I see them go on ebay in the $550 - $700 range. $500 for the articulated seems to be a fair price. Ebay pricing on this one is a lot more all over the place, ranging right now from $445 to almost $1,000. 

Later,

K


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## Gareth-2015 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks for the quick replies already! Here's two pictures I found online of the engines.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have both. They are each great engines. What are you planning for a railroad, European or American?

The steamer is European and the Diesel is North American.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

LGB 2055 White Pass Diesel.
LGB 2085D European Mallet.

The price seems a fairly good deal considering they are in new condition from a local store. I have seen both locos advertised for much more than that. 
They both should be fine on R1 curves but the mallet has no sliders so will need the back of the wheels cleaned fairly regularly for trouble free running.

Andrew


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

The 2055 will handle the R1 curves the best of the 2. I have owned both and currently run a 2155s(sound version of the 2055) on my overhead loop in our living room. The mallet would slow noticably in the curves, much as my 2018d mogul does. The 2155 just goes around the curve with little to no speed change and keeps on moving. I have long thought about getting a spare set of middle drivers for my mogul and having my friend turn off the flanges and make them blind. That would, in theory, fix the binding on the mogul. The 2018 has less play in that center axle and no springing to help it thru the curves that the later moguls have. Mike


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

While LGB 3 axle engines will run on 2 foot radius, I would stick with 2 axle drive units.
You will get lots of wheel wear on the small radius track and these wheels at this time are hard to find and expensive.
My 2085D runs great outdoors where my smallest curve is 4 foot radius.
The Unitah and Sumpter Valley 2-6-6-2 run the same as the 2085D.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Just because an engine or car will run through LGB R1 curves, doesn't mean that it is good for it. There is a lot of wear and tear on wheels and track, not to mention gears and motors. 

I have a friend who, when he is home, runs an LGB Stanz all day every day on a loop containing R1 curves. Every few years he has to replace the track. The wheels on the engine have ground away the inside of the rail head on the outside rail. For those of you who wonder about the black dust under you track it is brass from the rail. If you have plastic wheels on your cars, the dust also contains small pieces of plastic. I have heard of flanges being worn off plastic wheels on cars constantly running on R1 curves. 

This is one of the reasons why we recommend using the largest diameter curves you can. 

The original Red and Green Mogul (2018) did not have much lateral movement of the middle driver. I had a machinist friend turn down the flanges on the middle drive wheels and made them blind. It worked, but when LGB came out with a redesigned motor block a little later, I sent the mogul in and they replaced the old block with the new one. There is a lot more lateral movement. If you turn your wheels down to make them blind, grind them down enough so that they do not touch the rail head. You don't want it getting caught on the rail head. It could be completely outside of the rail on a tight curve and get caught on the track as it straightens out.

Chuck


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## Gareth-2015 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks for the information guys! I've decided to just hold off and continue using my two axle engines. I don't want to buy anything new and cause it premature wear right off the bat. 

I look forward to many more conversations in the future!

Gareth


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

I have both locos. I have run R1 with both, and, in particular, the alco runs fine on R1 with no slow down. The Alco has off center pivots for the trucks which makes it track R1 well. The simple fact, as noted above, even a stainz will have wear, over time, on R1. The better question, to me, is, How much will you run them? Will you run them only when you watch them, ie an hour or so at a time. or, leave them running all day or for hours? If the former, you have little tobe concerned about with the bigger locos.

And, FWIW, I haven't noticed any slowdown with my 2085s either. They are about the same as the ALco, as the driver units are short in length and both pivot.

If you must run R1, which I assume from an overhead, heres my 2 cents. 
First and foremost, enjoy your railroad, run what you like.

Second, if you still have reservations about the larger locos (which I don't), for pulling power, which I assume you want from your earlier choices , a 2015, 2017 , older, with two motors. Secondly, a Forney, or the BoBo Diesel (Austrian), the Frank S, or, the wonderfully powerful Sachsen 0-4-4-0.

youd really have to run things a lot to wear them out. not impossible, but for 'normal' play, ie when you are there and attentive, it might take twenty years.


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