# D&RGW Flat car - My next Hartford build



## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello guys!

After building the derrick I felt confident enough to start my next project, a D&RGW Flat car from Hartford.
I am using an old noodle board as a work platform. The front lip stops it from moving and the back lip keeps things from falling off. I'm sure my deceased Oma from Germany won't mind.

The frame was no problem. The brakes were not so easy:










When it came time to install the couplers, the springs initially really spooked me since they kept popping out. The solution was a tiny drop of super glue to keep them in their place:










I really messed up on the steps and handles. I normally wash the metal parts in muriatic acid for about 20 minutes and after rinsing them, I put them in Blacken-It for a while.
I forgot to remove them from the muriatic acid and when I discovered them in the morning, they were very soft. I built new ones out of brass strips using a self made jig:











I decided to use the original paint scheme on the entire model, including the trucks. The trucks were not feathering correctly, so I dismantled them and filed the contact surfaces smooth:










I wanted to have a nice finish so I decided to spray paint it. I settled on Valspar red oxide primer and I like the color and effect:










After laying the deck treated with Age It Easy gray and applying the decals (haven't done that in ages and messed up at the beginning), I made the stakes out of 13/64 x 13/64 stained wood:










The beams are a hair to big for the brackets which is perfect if you crimp the end with pliers. Makes a nice lip:










And she is ready for any kind of load:










Thanks for looking. Can't wait for my next project!

TOM


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom

I have edited your above posted reply because all of included images exceeded the maximum width rule of 800 pixels in width.

Forum Rules and Guidelines - 3.0 - Photos:[/b]

_3.1 - All photos or images posted to these forums are limited to 800 pixels in width._


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Sorry about that. I was importing them at 1024 x 768 pix and was trying to keep the size low. TOM


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

No problem Tom







, however, I did fail to mention on just how nice of a job you did on the flatcar, nice trick using the pliers to reduce the size of the stake bottom







.


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Tom,
This is really nice looking flat, thanks for posting and thanks for the info on the painting.
Cheers.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom,

I've also built a number of Hartford's kits and appreciate the level of detail you've put into yours. It certainly is a mighty fine looking flat car. Outside of Bob's coaches I think the toughest car to build is the stock car but it is a fantastic kit.

Doc


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## bruja (Jan 7, 2008)

Tom, Very nice model. I recently finished one of Hartford's flat cars and found the coupler mounting too low. I replaced his parts with Kadees and raised car frame using teflon bushings between bolsters and truck frames. Bruja


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## Bender (Apr 16, 2013)

Tom you have made a very good job! Is the little crane on the flat car comming from Hartford? Can you tell me if it was difficult to assemble and if you have to buy a lot of stuff not inclued in the box to make Hartford ' s kits ?


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job on the flat. I built one of those a long time ago. I didn't trust the end beams as just glued together so I reinforced them with screws so the couple wouldn't pull them off. I thought the steps were rather brittle so you probably are better off replacing them.


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hello Tom, 
Nice project you completed here, I have a couple on the go at the moment and will eventually post them. In the mean time I have a question. On the upper coupling release bar loop at the coupler end have you done anything to fill the gap between the lifting rod loop and the knuckle coupler? I keep looking at the gap on one of mine that has the top lift and I'm not sure what to put in there. Obviously it has to be something that won't interfere with the sideways movement of the coupler. On the underside release it's not a problem as the coupler knuckle hides the loop. 
Cheers


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello Harvey,
I was planning to try to drill a small hole into the top of the coupler axis and installing a short chain between it and the lifting rod. It won't be functional but should look like the prototype.




















I hope that I understood you correctly and I answered your question.
Have a great day, 

TOM


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom has the correct explanation. Even on modern equipment, cut levers above the coupler have a chain between the lever and the release pin, while cut levers below the coupler are almost always linked directly to the release pin (no chain).

Best,
David Meashey


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Dave, Hi Tom, 
I guess these are variations on the chain. I think that in our scale we just need something to fill the gap. As Tom mentioned a chain left hanging would fit the need I think. I like the hook, but I think it would be too restrictive even on a large radius curve.





























Cheers.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

OOps! Forgot that I was remembering mostly prototypes. (Did a lot of work as a pinpuller on the hump in the N&W yard at Bellevue, Ohio during the 1978 clerk's strike.) With the tight curves we have in large scale, it is best to only suggest a connection to the coupler pin. Sorry guys. 

Have fun, 
David Meashey


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello again,

Okay. My first attempt. Could be a little better but practice makes perfect.










I drilled a hole into the coupler shaft with a 1/32 bit. The Hobby Lobby has cool stuff (besides trees) in the jewelry area.
The black eyepins are a perfect anchor loop and a steal at $1.99 for 30 pieces. Chains (costume jewelry) of all sizes are also reasonably priced.
The chain is long enough to allow lateral motion of the coupler head and I think it looks good. 
I dipped the anchor loop into crazy glue after attaching the chain and inserted it into the drilled hole.











Okay?

TOM


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Well it looks as though that worked just fine and you still have lots of lateral movement.
Maybe I should send you some of mine to practice on?
Good job Tom. Thanks for the pictures.
Cheers.


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