# New guy track questions



## brifox (Aug 15, 2013)

Hi, I am new to trains and am building a shelf layout for my sons bedroom. I purchased the bachmann G scale thomas the train set and extra straight track in 1' sections. I would appreciate some guidance with the following track questions:
1. are there other brands of track that are compatible with the bachmann steel track?
2. I need a 3" and a 7" piece of straight track to finish the layout .Am i supposed to cut and modify a straight section that I already have or can i purchase those lengths and where?
3. if I have to cut and modify the track, are there instructions anywhere?

i would post a picture if i could figure out how.

thanks for your help 
Brian


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Brian, The Bachmann fabricated steel track (hollow) only comes in a straight, a curved, left and right turnouts and a 90 degree crossing. 
Don't ever use it outside, it will rust. 
You will have to cut them if you need short pieces. A hacksaw will do it. Maybe put some masking tape over the rail so you don't slide around and scratch the plating off. 
You may need some extra LGB track joiners too.

Andrew


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## brifox (Aug 15, 2013)

Thanks for the informatiive reply Andrew. Can I take from your response that the LGB track joiners will allow me to reconnect the Bachmann track after cutting it?
thanks again,
Brian


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Brian, 
The Bachmann track I have has a joiner on one side, and a tongue on the other. The tongue fits inside the hollow rail of the next piece. Is that what you have? 
If so, the track isn't really set up for cutting. But if that's what it takes to get your son's train running, by all means do so! 
You'll see that the tongue has a bottom tab that goes into a hole in the tie, so maybe try to coordinate your rail cuts to make that fit reoccur. Also, you'll have to mess with the joiner and some pliers. But not too much, because this hollow rail crushes very easily. 
===>Cliffy


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Brian, Cliffy is on the ball with cutting them in the right place but if you need a 3" and 7" piece you can get both from a single 12" piece by making two cuts in the center. 
You will not have to remove any joiners or center tongue. You will though be missing a joiner and tongue for each new piece where you made the cut though. 
The LGB joiners are fairly close to what you need as the rails are a very similar shape. You may have to squeeze them tighter with pliers to the base of the rail. As for the tongue it is there because the rail is hollow and offers support and alignment. You should ideally make a tongue out of whatever, preferably metal. It is not that critical as long as you still get electrical continuity through the joiner. 

Andrew


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

I use my chop saw to cut track. It makes quick and accurate cuts. Much easier than a hack saw.

John


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Chop saw is perfect as long as you have the correct blade. One with set pitched teeth for timber can make a mess with metal. 

Andrew


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## wgn4884 (May 23, 2013)

Andrew, correct me if I am wrong but I think chop saws, sometimes called cut-off saws, have abrasive discs that grind through the material being cut. Similar saws with toothed blades are called power miter saws. Cutting track with a toothed blade would be tricky and would not work for stainless steel unless a carbide blade is used. Years ago I got a little 7” chop saw with a disc 1/8” thick which grinds through SS track easily. I don’t know of anywhere to get one now. 

Bill


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Harbor freight had these in the past. My chop saw still has the original blade, but I only cut brass rail.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Bill you are right, an abrasive disc would be the go with thin material. I remember years back I was cutting aluminium extrusions with a tungsten blade with set teeth left and right and 'alternate top bevel'. It 'ripped' through the metal and left swarf either side of the cut. I believe now it was intended for timber. I tried another tungsten blade with no set, teeth all in line and 'flat top grind' like lots of little chisels. It cut the soft metal perfectly. 

Andrew


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

Brian

You can take a needle nose pliers and carefully wiggle and twist the black metal tongue and release it from the Bachmann plastic tie piece. Careful is the operative word here. 

Then it is a simple matter to gently squeeze the Bachmann track and slip it into any other brands of track joiners, e,g, LGB. I would be carefull with clamps such as Split Jaw and the like as they might crush and deform the Bachmann track.

I used Bachmann track outside and even a heavy overnight dew would leave the track rusted, in other words not suitable for outside layouts.


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