# distance between flanges?



## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Starting to put my Regner LumberJack together. They supply a gauge to set the wheel gauge (correct term?). It goes on the inside of the wheels. Using gauge sets the wheels so the distance between the outside of the wheel flanges (where the flanges would tough the inside of the rails) is about 1.700 inches. Seems to me this distance should be greater. Putting loco on track it is really "sloppy".
But maybe that's the way it's supposed to be- has a lot of wiggle room.

Please let me know what you think or if you need more info.

Marty


----------



## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

I have several Regner locos which I built from kits or modified from factory built,
(Willi, Konrad, Lumberjack and Shay)
Yes the back to back yields a bit wobbly running but they negotiate any track I've tried to run them on including regauging to 32mm and back to 45mm.
I say use the gauge supplied. Experiment if you like after you get it running.
I await others' experiences with their Regners.
Have fun,
Tom


----------



## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeet':

The primary concern is derailing at turnouts, where the back of one flange is in contact with the guard rail at the frog, and the other wheel picks the point of the frog. Many times this derailing is due to incorrect (too large or too small) wheel back to back dimensions.

The distance between flanges is very secondary to the back to back spacing and is not usually a source of problems. This is because the wheel treads are relatively wide and will accommodate a relatively wide range of gauge dimensions for both the wheels and the trackage. The slop in 'putting the loco on the track' has virtually nothing to do with the performance through turnouts.

Most of us use a back to back spacing of 1.575". That seems to work the best on a very wide variety of turnouts. That is also what the NMRA specifies for Gauge 1 track / wheel standards. The wheel gauge Regner provided is probably very close to that dimension.

Having written that, I am certain someone will soon dispute it, but the folks that manufactured your locomotive have lots of experience. I would recommend that you go with what they provided. If that turns out to be a problem you can make adjustments based on the performance.

Happy RRing,

Jerry


----------



## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Out of curiosity,
I measured the 45mm part of the two Regner gauges I had handy. One is 1.596" and the second is 1.573"
About as scientific as I get,
Tom


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

LoL, does make me wonder just how consistent track is!

So, I just measured an LGB switch (R1, left hand.)

At the outermost tie of the branch track: 45.68 mm.
Just prior to the frog: 45.03 mm.

At the outermost tie of the straight track: 45.25 mm.
Just prior to the frog: 44.88 mm.

At the outermost tie of the entry point to the switch: 45.84 mm.

Almost one millimeter of variance (not even considering the moving rails of the switch), or about 7/8" scaled to full size.

If my knowledge is right, full size US railroads have a 54.5" nominal gauge, but up to 56" is tolerated before maintenance is required.


----------



## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Skeeterweasel, there needs to be some looseness in the wheel gauge because of curves and the inconsistencies in track. The back to back measurement is critical when going through turnout frogs and the opposite guard rail. Have a study of what happens when your wheels/flanges go through a frog and you will have a good understanding to help reduce problems with wheels and track. 

Andrew


----------



## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx guys.


----------



## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Another thing is that the wheel is designed to self center along the rail because of the tread taper rather than wearing the flanges. When going around corners the cars will shift to the outside therefore rolling on a slightly larger diameter. The outside rail on a corner is longer. The tapered wheel tread causes hunting from side to side which creates problems with high speed trains so they had to redevelop the idea. 






Andrew


----------



## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

interesting. Never would have guessed cone would turn on tracks. Thx.


----------



## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Back to back is very important but check gauge too. If a particular wheel set has wide flanges and you set the back to back correct it might cause the gauge to get too wide. Sometimes you might need to cheat a little on the back to back. Set things and then check the trucks on your track while off the the car for smooth operation. Make adjustments from there.


----------

