# Please be gentle!



## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Hello everyone, I'm in the very early stages of my layout and have decided it sure would be nice to not have to keep my track perfectly clean. While my layout is relatively simple compared to a lot I've seen I'd still rather not be running wires all over the place outside. I've got a few questions for those that subscribe the RC battery powered engines. 

1.) I've got a couple of engines (USA Trains GP9 and an F7 A/B) that I'd like to convert to battery operation. A.) Is it possible? B.) How difficult is it?

2.) I've also got an RS3 That's got the option for battery operation and a plug on either end. What do I need to get for that? 

Please keep in mind that I'm completely new at this and have no idea where to begin! LOL

Thanks for your patience!

If there's more information you need from me please tell me what I need to tell you!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Please keep in mind that I'm completely new at this 
Well, your question requires a lot of detailed answers. Battery-r/c is easy when you know how, but you have to go through a learning curve to understand what is going on. Could I suggest you look at a bunch of older threads in the Battery+R/C Forum and at least look at the pictures if not read the inputs? 

I would also suggest a Google search for "site:mylargescale.com battery power usa" - I got 2400 results, and if you glance at the first few result threads you might get some ideas that will help you to ask more detailed questions? 

I have personally never converted a USA Trains engine, but I can probably answer #2, as I built a battery boxcar once that plugged into an engine that was battery-ready and had plugs on each end! 

What do I need to get for that?
A freight or passenger car with the battery in it, and some kind of remote-control throttle. Again, take a look at the threads I mention above.


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I use battery power for the (4) engines that I run most of the time, but I also have my track powered, for friends who use track power, and my other engines awaiting battery power. 
I only use 3 wires about 10 or 15 feet long going from the power supply to the track I use one common wire for both sections, a second wire to my original loop, and a third wire that supplies the rest of the track, I do use short jumper wires or "split-jaw" rail clamps at all joints.
All my engines are steam, so I don't know about you specific diesels, but as far the actual conversion to battery the hardest thing is figuring where to put the batteries and how to take the engine apart, most systems have reasonably clear instructions on the wiring, and if you still have questions you just have ask here....


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

I use a very basic approach with my battery power. For the USAT engines, I would put the receiver, sound (if you have it) and batteries in a trailing car. Then all you have to do to the engine is to pull the two track power leads from the motorblocks on the engine. You can insulate the ends and just push the leads from the front motorblock into the engine. Take the rear leads, solder wires onto them and run them to the rear of the engine and use a little connector like are used on the RS3 engine. This can then mate to the trailing car, and the engine itself will act just like it would if you had track power. With this method you don't have to go into your engine at all, and it is easy to swap out batteries when one goes dead.

For the RS3 you can use the same trailing car with the receiver and battery in it. Just flip the switch on the engine from "track" to "battery". Or you can open up the engine and plug in a receiver like the Aristo Revolution receiver, and still draw your battery power from the trailing car.

Others like to have the batteries inside the engine so they don't need a trailing car. I started out that way, but decided that, for me, I like the trailing car so I can swap out batteries and not have to have an engine out of commision when the batteries run down. To each his own in that regard. This is an easy way to get started with battery power though.

The little connectors can be purchased from All-electronics on line. I believe they are the CON-240 connectors.

Good luck!

Ed


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Fish 

I just recently converted my Aristo Craft Dash 9 over to battery. 

It had the plugs out by the couplers so it was supposed to be a plug and play arangement. 

First: I received the Revolution and upon opening the box, found several items. 
A quick look at the papers that came with the Revo and then a look online at the instructions and there was no list to be found of what was included. 

I also installed a Phoeinix P8 Sound Card. 

I bought a battery pack, 

Upon starting the install, it was clear that what instructions there was, were very fague and not specific to the install. 

My Dash 9 works great and I am happy with the revo and the sound. 

I bought a 14.8 volt pack and that was a mistake. If you have room, put a 18 volt or bigger in what ever you are running. 

You can slow it down if the 18 volts makes it go too fast, but you can't make it go faster when you are linited by voltage. 

Now this isn't said to discourage you. It's to let you know up front that you are going to need help with this install. 

There are lots of threads about battery, sound and radio installs. 

Can't find the answer to a questions, start a thread and we all will help as much as possible. 

Most of all have fun


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Fish, 

I have been running on battery/RC for about 4 years plus and it's been great. I only have two engines......a Accucraft C19 #346 and a Bachmann Connie. Both have the batteries in their tenders. I don't use trailing cars for batteries. Because I pretty much have a "black thumb" when it comes to electronics, I let an expert do the installs. Jonathan Bliese from Electric Model Works in Chino, CA. Both engines have Phoenix P5's and the Connie has the older decoder from Airwire and the #346 has the new G2 with cruise control. When I first got into the LS hobby in 1985, I used track power. But I'm very happy I don't have to be cleaning track all the time now and I don't have to run wiring all over the yard and worry about conductivity. If you are very good at wiring things, then you can save a bunch of money doing it yourself. If you have quite a few engines, it could get kind of pricey. Good luck with your research and have fun.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

For my first conversion, I ordered all the parts (battery packs, receiver/throttle board, sound board, speaker, lights, transmitter, etc.) as a package from Dave Goodson at NWRCS. Dave walked me through the installation step-by-step and in great detail via emails. Everything worked perfectly first time and still works perfectly years later. I can't think of a better way to get started than to have a professional teach you how. 

Just a crazy thought. Worked for me. 

Steve


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

CVP Products make drop in AirWire decoaders for some locos these days. This may make you installs easier if you use AirWire. 

Alan


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 10 Oct 2011 07:50 PM 
Please keep in mind that I'm completely new at this 
Well, your question requires a lot of detailed answers. Battery-r/c is easy when you know how, but you have to go through a learning curve to understand what is going on. Could I suggest you look at a bunch of older threads in the Battery+R/C Forum and at least look at the pictures if not read the inputs? 

I would also suggest a Google search for "site:mylargescale.com battery power usa" - I got 2400 results, and if you glance at the first few result threads you might get some ideas that will help you to ask more detailed questions? 

I have personally never converted a USA Trains engine, but I can probably answer #2, as I built a battery boxcar once that plugged into an engine that was battery-ready and had plugs on each end! 

What do I need to get for that?
A freight or passenger car with the battery in it, and some kind of remote-control throttle. Again, take a look at the threads I mention above. I did attyempt to look at some threads, most were in language I did not understand! LOL After a while I decided to do a google search " G scale battery conversion " which resulted in a PDF somehow linked to this site with manufacturers, prices, and some definitions of the lingo I didn't understand. It was helpful, but I sort of like to get my education from others in filed who have made the mistakes for me! LOL


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Posted By Dean Whipple on 10 Oct 2011 07:55 PM 
I use battery power for the (4) engines that I run most of the time, but I also have my track powered, for friends who use track power, and my other engines awaiting battery power. 
I only use 3 wires about 10 or 15 feet long going from the power supply to the track I use one common wire for both sections, a second wire to my original loop, and a third wire that supplies the rest of the track, I do use short jumper wires or "split-jaw" rail clamps at all joints.
All my engines are steam, so I don't know about you specific diesels, but as far the actual conversion to battery the hardest thing is figuring where to put the batteries and how to take the engine apart, most systems have reasonably clear instructions on the wiring, and if you still have questions you just have ask here....



Thanks for the info!  As for the wiring, I have a yard where I plan to park the engines, I was trying to avoid running switches to turn power on and off to sections of the yard and sidings and so on...


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Posted By eheading on 10 Oct 2011 08:05 PM 
I use a very basic approach with my battery power. For the USAT engines, I would put the receiver, sound (if you have it) and batteries in a trailing car. Then all you have to do to the engine is to pull the two track power leads from the motorblocks on the engine. You can insulate the ends and just push the leads from the front motorblock into the engine. Take the rear leads, solder wires onto them and run them to the rear of the engine and use a little connector like are used on the RS3 engine. This can then mate to the trailing car, and the engine itself will act just like it would if you had track power. With this method you don't have to go into your engine at all, and it is easy to swap out batteries when one goes dead.

For the RS3 you can use the same trailing car with the receiver and battery in it. Just flip the switch on the engine from "track" to "battery". Or you can open up the engine and plug in a receiver like the Aristo Revolution receiver, and still draw your battery power from the trailing car.

Others like to have the batteries inside the engine so they don't need a trailing car. I started out that way, but decided that, for me, I like the trailing car so I can swap out batteries and not have to have an engine out of commision when the batteries run down. To each his own in that regard. This is an easy way to get started with battery power though.

The little connectors can be purchased from All-electronics on line. I believe they are the CON-240 connectors.

Good luck!

Ed
Ha! Thanks Ed! Some great information in your post. I'm a big fan of the KISS method and have absolutely no problem using a battery car at all! I like the power lead idea! That's terrific and easily reversed if need be! And I do like not having to go into the engine. It was nerve racking enough taking apart the GP9 to paint it! LOL


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Posted By rlvette on 10 Oct 2011 08:20 PM 
Hi Fish 

I just recently converted my Aristo Craft Dash 9 over to battery. 

It had the plugs out by the couplers so it was supposed to be a plug and play arangement. 

First: I received the Revolution and upon opening the box, found several items. 
A quick look at the papers that came with the Revo and then a look online at the instructions and there was no list to be found of what was included. 

I also installed a Phoeinix P8 Sound Card. 

I bought a battery pack, 

Upon starting the install, it was clear that what instructions there was, were very fague and not specific to the install. 

My Dash 9 works great and I am happy with the revo and the sound. 

I bought a 14.8 volt pack and that was a mistake. If you have room, put a 18 volt or bigger in what ever you are running. 

You can slow it down if the 18 volts makes it go too fast, but you can't make it go faster when you are linited by voltage. 

Now this isn't said to discourage you. It's to let you know up front that you are going to need help with this install. 

There are lots of threads about battery, sound and radio installs. 

Can't find the answer to a questions, start a thread and we all will help as much as possible. 

Most of all have fun Oh I'm having fun for sure! I've got two little boys 5 & 6 that love the trains and are being very patient with Dad doing his research. I've got a small layout set up in the upstairs of my barn that we tinker with, but until I can get the layout up and running outside it'll have to do. And I'll be taking my time researching options...  Thank you for your response!


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Posted By Gary Armitstead on 10 Oct 2011 09:04 PM 
Fish, 

I have been running on battery/RC for about 4 years plus and it's been great. I only have two engines......a Accucraft C19 #346 and a Bachmann Connie. Both have the batteries in their tenders. I don't use trailing cars for batteries. Because I pretty much have a "black thumb" when it comes to electronics, I let an expert do the installs. Jonathan Bliese from Electric Model Works in Chino, CA. Both engines have Phoenix P5's and the Connie has the older decoder from Airwire and the #346 has the new G2 with cruise control. When I first got into the LS hobby in 1985, I used track power. But I'm very happy I don't have to be cleaning track all the time now and I don't have to run wiring all over the yard and worry about conductivity. If you are very good at wiring things, then you can save a bunch of money doing it yourself. If you have quite a few engines, it could get kind of pricey. Good luck with your research and have fun. 

Thanks Gary! I think I should be able to handle this wiring... I've got two A/B units, one set is new, the other used and needs repair to even run. The RS# and GP9, both used but in excellent shape, and a small radio controled cheapo steam engine that the boys run all the time.... The only thing I'd like to add is an SD40-2. I grew up watching those go through my back yard... (B&O)


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