# Wanting A Live Steamer



## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Hey Guys!

I have a question, need to be quick to ask, cuz I need rest for work tonight...

I've always wanted a live steamer, actually the kind you can ride on, but that'll never happen. lol. Now that I'm back in G-Scale, I'd like to take a shot at it. I just bought some nice USA trains PRR Overton coaches and would like something nice to pull them. 

Mike (from reindeerpass) offered a Ruby, but to me it's basic and plain and just not satisfying. Now i will admit, I do not know one thing about live steam or how to operate one. What the basics to do, and not to do. I know probably not an indoor item, so it will be used once in awhile when I feel like taking the track outside. Now I did find a nice engine from Accucraft that I like, it's a little much at $2,300.00, but I found one NEW for $1,899.00, something I can save up for. It's the Accucraft American 4-4-0 pictured below. Would I be biting off more then I can chew, are their detailed instructions on what to do, what's needed, etc?










I just think that is one beautiful engine. 

Waiting for all the feedback here.

Thanks

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Welcome to the dark side. MUHAHAHAHA!


I own a roundhouse engineering sandy river and rangely lakes #24 and it will navigate the radiuns curves you currently have, and it is a GREAT engine. personally, i find it easier to run than my ruby.

http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/srrl24.htm

current price for one with rc is $3634.82 USD


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

That looks like a mighty nice engine and I think the price you found is pretty good. But I have been out of the purchasing market for a long time so I don't really know for sure.

BY THE WAY... The "Dark Side" is battery power... when you go Live Steam... that is "seeing the light!". 

Operating Live Steam is not all that hard. It IS a "hands on" operation... i.e.: you can't just put it on the track, turn it on and walk away.

There is some "prep work"... add Steam Oil, fuel it up, water it, light the fire and spend some time oiling the moving parts. (A Live Steam engine is a much more precision piece of machinery than an electrically operated toy and so you do need to be sure there is oil on the moving parts so they don't wear so quickly!)

Then you RUN the engine.

Hopefully you can get one with Radio Control (or install R/C yourself) so the engine does not make YOU "run". (If your track is at ground level it can be a bit of a pain to run after it to adjust the throttle periodically, BUT... some folk enjoy it that way! So don't be discouraged by my comment that you can hopefully have Remote Control.)

Then when you are done being a real "Engineer" (instead of just a throttle jockey playing with the electrical transformer) you need to let it cool down, clean the dirt and soot off of it (unless you like natural weathering) and put it away (along with all the tools and bottles of water, oil and fuel).

All that prep work and the shut down process takes time, but you get the joy of actually doing it, as well as being a REAL "Engineer" while you run it.

GO FOR IT! You won't regret it!

Welcome to the LIGHT! {Glory Hallelujah!}


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey, 2Poor,
In what part of the country do you live?


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

steamtom1 said:


> Hey, 2Poor,
> In what part of the country do you live?


Hi.. PA


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Semper Vaporo said:


> That looks like a mighty nice engine and I think the price you found is pretty good. But I have been out of the purchasing market for a long time so I don't really know for sure.
> 
> BY THE WAY... The "Dark Side" is battery power... when you go Live Steam... that is "seeing the light!".
> 
> ...


Yeah, I may have to.. I'll think about it the next few days.. That 4-4-0 keeps looking better each day...


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

I live rather close to you.(york) im only 13 yrs old, so i will check with mom& dad, but i may be able to let you come see and operate my steam engines. i can teach you how to run your 4-4-0 if you get one.

nate


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

BTW an accucraft 4-4-0 wont crap out like your piko engines keep doing


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Those 4-4-0's are quite beautiful. You should see them in the fancy paint jobs and not just basic black! They do take a large radius curve and would look wonderful pulling your coaches. Short of steaming up with someone who is a seasoned steamer, videos on youtube are your best trainer for learning how to raise steam and run your engine before you really attempt it. Keep in mind that every engine is different and will have unique "quirks" that you will learn, even with the same model from the same mfg. Roundhouse, the brand his SRRL #24 is from, is one of the best to own for a beginner. Every model is run in for several hours at the factory in the UK prior to shipping(other than the basic series). The engine he has would also look really good pulling your cars, it will handle tighter radius curves, but also costs more to purchase. Your best bet for one of the SRRL #24's is second hand thru The Train Dept or another dealer like Anything Narrow Gauge in the UK. He has 2 of them for sale second hand. Good Luck and welcome to live steam. Mike


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

2Poor,
I know PA is a big state, but you need to investigate The Pennsylvania Live Steamers, not far from Philly. I live outside Detroit, and I am a member, as are a few more Michigan steamers. Besides ride on size, they also have a superb gauge one track, and Mike Moore always brings his portable track to the main steam weekends, so there is always plenty of track time, as seen here.








​


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

2poor, the 440 looks very much like my Mogul that I think came out about the same time, just a different wheel arrangement. If so, you will be very happy with it. And it does look great pulling a short string of Bachmann old style passenger cars. Only thing the Mogul doesn't have a site glass, don't know if the 440 does. But as unreliable as the glasses are usually are should be no problem, + if like other Accucraft loco's, designed to run out of gas before water, but doesn't hurt to be careful. I added a NiCr screen to the burner to make mine more efficient and quite. There was a discussion a few months back on this forum about Goodall valves, check that out. I support everything Mike said about Roundhouse, they are great running locomotives and as he said, are run in before shipping. I must add: any AS IS USED locomotive may have problems that you will be responsible for, should be something to ask the seller or agent about. LG


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## Malcolm (Aug 3, 2011)

I purchased an Accucraft Baldwin 4-4-0 for my wife five years ago. She runs it, won't let me touch it. 

It is an excellent runner. In the video that follows you can see it running (at about 2:26 into the video on an elevated track and later on our garden line that has 6 ft radius curves. 





 It can pull a fair number of cars, probably more than the prototype. It is running at about 1:10 in this video.




 I purchased the recent run of the Accucraft Baldwin 2-6-0 in late 2015. The locomotive has a site glass on this run.
Best Regards to All,
Malcolm


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi 2poor,

Welcome to the brotherhood of burnt fingers. One thing to keep in mind with live steam locos is that they're more sensitive to gradient than electric models. The 4-4-0 design does not have a lot of weight on drivers and will spin or stall on what may seem like an insignificant uphill. 

I'd suggest checking out what your track is like and try to correct anything really noticeable. Or save your pennies for something with more drivers. 

Just my two cents' worth.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Guys!!

Thanks so much for all your input... please keep it coming..

It is official, I have started a piggy bank fund for hopefully the 4-4-0 or 2-6-0. 

Oh.. and thanks for the videos!! gonna watch them now and dream.. and too funny. won't let you touch it.. haha So I take it.. she likes it..


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Malcolm said:


> I purchased an Accucraft Baldwin 4-4-0 for my wife five years ago. She runs it, won't let me touch it.
> 
> It is an excellent runner. In the video that follows you can see it running (at about 2:26 into the video on an elevated track and later on our garden line that has 6 ft radius curves.
> 
> ...


Malcolm, totally awesome videos!! and I must say your Millie is looking fine!! I'm only about 35 mins from where Millie resides, but still have to admit, like the wife's engine better. LOL

Yea.. my fund started....

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

i kind of find you name funny when you say you are too poor for g scale, yet buy the most expensive engines piko makes, and are getting a live steam engine LOL

just remember if you buy the 4-4-0 or 2-6-0 you will need to buy new curve tracks that are a lot wider

heres my engine steaming


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> i kind of find you name funny when you say you are too poor for g scale, yet buy the most expensive engines piko makes, and are getting a live steam engine LOL
> 
> just remember if you buy the 4-4-0 or 2-6-0 you will need to buy new curve tracks that are a lot wider
> 
> ...


I haven't bought the live steamer yet.. it's something that will have to be saved for... and now....

I'm hocking all of my HO Stuff, that is how I'm getting my G-Scale stuff now. Once all that is hocked, then I won't be getting as much. And I had a crap load of BLI engines... So yea.. once the ho scale is all sold, I won't have the extra money coming in, and I'll start having to save up to buy that $95.00 car. lol

PS.. Only thing I don't like about the Live Steam... It's basically real.. give a working whistle for pete's sake.. LOL

I also find it funny how you are 14 and can afford a $3,500.00 live steam engine.  <jk>. I was lucky at your age to be able to find a Tyco HO set under the tree. lol
But that is a nice engine, really puts out the smoke.

I will have to ask, what's with all the stopping... and wow.. that is a lot of running around.. yeah I may have to look at getting R/C when/if I get mine. lol

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

the engine was given to me by one of the most generous people on earth About the starting and stopping- i forgot that i had the tank car full of water, and bricks in my boxcars. LOL this mad the train alot heavier to pull up the hill, and it made it fly down the hill to fast. also, the R/C wasnt working then.

now i got her running well:


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Keep in mind the Mogul and the 4-4-0 are two completely different locomotives from a design standpoint. The mogul dates back to the start of Accucraft where the 4-4-0 was just about 8 or 9 years ago. 

They are designed very different when it comes to the cylinders and valves. The Mogul is a basic piston valve and the 4-4-0 is a D or slide valve so the wear pattern is very different. The piston valves when worn out cannot be repaired too easily. With a slide valve you usually don't need to rebuild unless you have a lot of hours say 200. And for repaid, its just a matter of relapping the valve and port faces so be smooth again. typically no parts are needed unless you want to then also replace a few seals which are Orings. 

Id recommend a book by Mark Horovitz that explains all the different types of cylinders, valve gear and also operation.

http://www.thetraindepartment.com/books/


I also deal in used locos too, so you never know what will show up there too. Many that are more desirable are sold before I even list them as I have a running want list of customers that I contact if I get one in. 

http://www.thetraindepartment.com/pre-owned/


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> the engine was given to me by one of the most generous people on earth About the starting and stopping- i forgot that i had the tank car full of water, and bricks in my boxcars. LOL this mad the train alot heavier to pull up the hill, and it made it fly down the hill to fast. also, the R/C wasnt working then.
> 
> now i got her running well:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkZPWTE_uOk


Very nice! You should tell that most generous person on earth about me. LOL <jk> 

You have a video of steaming her up? If not you should do one. I think you have more steam coming from the safety valves then you do the stack. Still a nice engine, but still liking the 4-4-0. I'd have to get something in the undecorated version when/if I do get mine. Guestimated, I could probably get one towards the end of this month, beginning of the new year.. but there is still so much other things I need, like more freight cars, better track not to mention make all my switches digital, and that's going to be expensive. 

Steve


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Also don't knock the 4-4-0 down for pulling. Ive pulled 13 AMS DRGW freight cars and even walked up a .5% grade with it at a track in VA. I typically pull only a couple kit built wood coaches with her though.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

The reason whistles are seldom on G-gauge stuff is that if you make it the proper scale, only dogs can hear it. If you make it have prototypical sound, it is bigger than the engine and you will have a hard time generating enough steam to make it sound for more than a milli-second!

Compromises in scale and sound mean that you have to put the whistle someplace on the engine that is not prototypical, such as disguising it as an air tank, but even then the sound is extremely high compared to prototypical whistles. And people complain about steam coming from the wrong place when it is sounded. They also take a lot of steam to operate and sometimes the engine will slow or stop when it is sounded.

There are some nice 3rd party designs that look fairly nice and produce "good" sound (relatively!), but the manufacturers seem to be reluctant to adopt those designs (might be an NIH factor or possibly a licensing problem). Weltyk Whistles are supposed to be good. And Larry Bangham published a design in "Steam in the Garden" Magazine some time ago. Both rely on a resonator hidden someplace to reduce the frequency to closer to prototypical.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Kovacjr said:


> Keep in mind the Mogul and the 4-4-0 are two completely different locomotives from a design standpoint. The mogul dates back to the start of Accucraft where the 4-4-0 was just about 8 or 9 years ago.
> 
> They are designed very different when it comes to the cylinders and valves. The Mogul is a basic piston valve and the 4-4-0 is a D or slide valve so the wear pattern is very different. The piston valves when worn out cannot be repaired too easily. With a slide valve you usually don't need to rebuild unless you have a lot of hours say 200. And for repaid, its just a matter of relapping the valve and port faces so be smooth again. typically no parts are needed unless you want to then also replace a few seals which are Orings.
> 
> ...


See that is one thing I worry about, is repairs. I really don't want to spend that kind of money on something that is going to be hard to replace or cost me a fortune mailing it in to be repair. I have no local hobby shop where I live, that why everything is done online with me. And to me, $2,000.00 or above is a life time commitment. Let me copy the stats for the 4-4-0. This engine is listed as NEW.

Scale/Gauge	1:20.3 Scale/ 45mm Gauge
Minimum Radius	1.2 M / 48 in.
Driver Wheels Dia	53 mm, 2.10 in.
Valve Gear	Simplified Stephenson
Valves	Slide valves - D-Valve
Reversing	Johnson bar controlled links
Fuel	Butane
Boiler	Single flue
Water Capacity	300 ml
Working Pressure	40~60 PSI
Fittings	Safety valve, water filler valve, throttle, steam pressure gauge
Lubricator	Hydrostatic lubricator New

Yeah, really wasn't thinking of repairs.. I may have to rethink getting one.

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Semper Vaporo said:


> The reason whistles are seldom on G-gauge stuff is that if you make it the proper scale, only dogs can hear it. If you make it have prototypical sound, it is bigger than the engine and you will have a hard time generating enough steam to make it sound for more than a milli-second!
> 
> Compromises in scale and sound mean that you have to put the whistle someplace on the engine that is not prototypical, such as disguising it as an air tank, but even then the sound is extremely high compared to prototypical whistles. And people complain about steam coming from the wrong place when it is sounded. They also take a lot of steam to operate and sometimes the engine will slow or stop when it is sounded.
> 
> There are some nice 3rd party designs that look fairly nice and produce "good" sound (relatively!), but the manufacturers seem to be reluctant to adopt those designs (might be an NIH factor or possibly a licensing problem). Weltyk Whistles are supposed to be good. And Larry Bangham published a design in "Steam in the Garden" Magazine some time ago. Both rely on a resonator hidden someplace to reduce the frequency to closer to prototypical.


Yeah, I guess you are right on that.. My dog would flip... Still wishful thinking though..


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Here is one of My Whistles


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Bob in Mich said:


> Here is one of My Whistles
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6h2KKRX9v8
> https://youtu.be/48xphgeFKl4


Okay, I laughed at the first one.. but loved the second one!!

Nice.. THANKS!

Steve


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

2poor, most will caution about purchasing a used live steamer. If you can see it in person under steam, that is most desirable. LG


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the 4-4-0 in red and love it. It pulls great and easy to control on my outdoor layout with some grades, It looks great with freight or passenger cars plus its an American Classic. Just keep it oiled, do the proper maint and it will serve you well for years. If you need something fixed their are lots of great people who can help you. Get to know the live steam group by attending steam ups. 
Where in PA are you? Im not far from Milford PA. If your close come by and you can try mine out.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve,
My 2cents is that the 4-4-0 is a much nicer engine to learn with than a Ruby. For some reason, the small 0-4-0 Accucraft locos are much less satisfying - maybe its the small gas tank, or the small boiler, or whatever.

And don't worry about repairs. Jason sees engines that have been run every week for 10 years, so of course they can wear. If you only run it 4 or 5 times a year it will be fine for 20 years. If you run it every month, then expect 5 or 10 years use before it gets loose and problematic. By then you'll be able to afford a replacement.

If you hadn't already settled on a 4-4-0, I would recommend you look at the Regner "Easy Line". They are simple engines and seem to give very little trouble. (Jason sells them too. Check out the LumberJack.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a Weltyk Whistle on my old Geoffbuilt Shay...


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

my ruby has about 120 hrs of run time with no evident wear. my sandy river probably should be in for repairs soon, she is 20 years old! i think i can get 2 more years out of her though, before a partial rebuild to chassis.(i put about 5 hours on my engines a week)


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## Malcolm (Aug 3, 2011)

Yes, my wife likes her locomotive. Her requirements for her locomotive included "a big smokestack and a pointy cow catcher" and the Accucraft Baldwin 4-4-0 was the perfect match. And, it is true, she won't "let me touch it". She takes care of it. 

Her locomotive is running starting at 0:42 in the following video. One of the clips shows her adjusting the throttle on the run.





 Best Regards to All,
Malcolm


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

My very first engine in live steam was a Wilesco traction engine, followed by Mamod railway set that I found at a model train show. I got a subscription to Steam in The Garden magazine(highly recommended!) and that is where the whole world of small scale live steam opened up to me. This is all pre internet era mind you. As I was huge in to LGB and the European look, I ended up getting one of thier Frank S steamers made for them by Aster. A good fair weather engine, he didn't like steaming in cold weather and having to keep up with warm water in the tender to keep the gas pressure up was a major pain in the arse. I put a replacement tank from Finescale Engineering in the fireman's side tank and this cured the problem. Sadly this option is no longer available. I just bought myself a second hand Roundhouse Argyll 0-6-2 loco. He will be more suited to colder weather operationand no tender to deal with. Roundhouse is probably the top choice for a beginners engine, followed by the other brands. Thier engines have stood the test of time, with parts availablity on pretty much any model made. Other than Aster(up to recently), I do not think to many other brands can claim that. Can't wait to see pics of your new engine running. Best wishes into the new year. Mike and Michele T


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Malcolm said:


> Yes, my wife likes her locomotive. Her requirements for her locomotive included "a big smokestack and a pointy cow catcher" and the Accucraft Baldwin 4-4-0 was the perfect match. And, it is true, she won't "let me touch it". She takes care of it.
> 
> Her locomotive is running starting at 0:42 in the following video. One of the clips shows her adjusting the throttle on the run.
> 
> ...


That is still a nice engine.. Seems to pull good to.. So no R/C for it??

Nice video.. thanks for the upload!!

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Mike Toney said:


> My very first engine in live steam was a Wilesco traction engine, followed by Mamod railway set that I found at a model train show. I got a subscription to Steam in The Garden magazine(highly recommended!) and that is where the whole world of small scale live steam opened up to me. This is all pre internet era mind you. As I was huge in to LGB and the European look, I ended up getting one of thier Frank S steamers made for them by Aster. A good fair weather engine, he didn't like steaming in cold weather and having to keep up with warm water in the tender to keep the gas pressure up was a major pain in the arse. I put a replacement tank from Finescale Engineering in the fireman's side tank and this cured the problem. Sadly this option is no longer available. I just bought myself a second hand Roundhouse Argyll 0-6-2 loco. He will be more suited to colder weather operationand no tender to deal with. Roundhouse is probably the top choice for a beginners engine, followed by the other brands. Thier engines have stood the test of time, with parts availablity on pretty much any model made. Other than Aster(up to recently), I do not think to many other brands can claim that. Can't wait to see pics of your new engine running. Best wishes into the new year. Mike and Michele T


Years and years ago, when I was in my late teens, I saved up for a momod, pellet live steamer, err I think it was only like 200 - $300 bucks. I had my mom cut a check and mail it out... I was on pins and needles waiting for this, after a month, I finally asked my mom about it and what could be taking it so long, she said she had no idea that she would check into it. another month went by, and I couldn't wait any longer, so I questioned her again... Finally her response was.. "I never mailed it". Yup.. I was P****** off big time. I think I finally when out and got something LGB with the money... I could of had my live steamer long ago.. but oh well.

I still have the pot going for the 4-4-0, but Christmas is taking from that Jar. lol

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

steamtom1 said:


> Here is a Weltyk Whistle on my old Geoffbuilt Shay...
> https://youtu.be/6Qxj8L_Q9II


Love it!!!

Thanks!!


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Pete Thornton said:


> Steve,
> My 2cents is that the 4-4-0 is a much nicer engine to learn with than a Ruby. For some reason, the small 0-4-0 Accucraft locos are much less satisfying - maybe its the small gas tank, or the small boiler, or whatever.
> 
> And don't worry about repairs. Jason sees engines that have been run every week for 10 years, so of course they can wear. If you only run it 4 or 5 times a year it will be fine for 20 years. If you run it every month, then expect 5 or 10 years use before it gets loose and problematic. By then you'll be able to afford a replacement.
> ...


I still have the jar for savings, yea, 4-4-0 will be my most likely choice, since they are my favorite engine. and I'll have to go check out that link!! Thanks for all your input!!!

Steve


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

FYI, I have two of the Accucraft Live Steam 4-4-0's. Both run like champs. My favorite locomotives too.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Dwight Ennis said:


> FYI, I have two of the Accucraft Live Steam 4-4-0's. Both run like champs. My favorite locomotives too.


How long have you had it, and do you run it often?

I'm still hesitant, on getting one.. I mean my funds for one are getting close, but every time I turn around it's like.. no you need this first.. especially since I"m just now starting g scale again. So then I end up falling behind lol. Now I got items barking.. buy me buy me. I have the digital DCC from Piko, and I'm getting tired of the tethered cable from the navigator well in order to make it wireless, I have to go out and buy the wireless receiver which runs about $147.00. lol Then of course it's like.. well you need more freight cars, passenger cars.. etc.. so I keep taking from the live steam fund lol. Although I haven't bought the wireless receiver yet. but I'm sure I will..

If you have photo's/video's of your 4-4-0, I'd love to see it!!

Thanks,

Steve


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

2poor4Gscale said:


> How long have you had it, and do you run it often?
> 
> I'm still hesitant, on getting one.. I mean my funds for one are getting close, but every time I turn around it's like.. no you need this first.. especially since I"m just now starting g scale again. So then I end up falling behind lol. Now I got items barking.. buy me buy me. I have the digital DCC from Piko, and I'm getting tired of the tethered cable from the navigator well in order to make it wireless, I have to go out and buy the wireless receiver which runs about $147.00. lol Then of course it's like.. well you need more freight cars, passenger cars.. etc.. so I keep taking from the live steam fund lol. Although I haven't bought the wireless receiver yet. but I'm sure I will..
> 
> ...


 Why not just go simple with the electric engines so you have the money for the steamer. All you need is a few cars. Get the more expensive thing first. Then its easier picking up cars and deals come up.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

How do you have this much money???????

you are NOT 2poor4gscale. LOL


REMEMBER, if you buy the Accucraft, you CANNOT run it with your piko engines. if you buy the SR&RL 24 from roundhouse, it has insulated wheels so it can run with electrics, or anything else for that matter


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

2poor4Gscale said:


> How long have you had it, and do you run it often?
> 
> I'm still hesitant, on getting one.. I mean my funds for one are getting close, but every time I turn around it's like.. no you need this first.. especially since I"m just now starting g scale again. So then I end up falling behind lol. Now I got items barking.. buy me buy me. I have the digital DCC from Piko, and I'm getting tired of the tethered cable from the navigator well in order to make it wireless, I have to go out and buy the wireless receiver which runs about $147.00. lol Then of course it's like.. well you need more freight cars, passenger cars.. etc.. so I keep taking from the live steam fund lol. Although I haven't bought the wireless receiver yet. but I'm sure I will..
> 
> ...


I have a Roundhouse Sammy I'll sell you for way less than what you're saving for. It has an American profile, is dead-simple to operate, and gave me my first year's enjoyment of steam before I committed to a more "museum quality" piece of equipment. For the record, I started this hobby with a PIKO digital starter kit, including extra PIKO track and the wireless for the controller (which I think is actually quite nice!). I sold all my PIKO gear (at a loss) to get into live steam. My advice to you would be to stop investing in track-power if you're even remotely interested in steam. You'll get the bug.

PM me if you're interested in Sammie. Here's some details:

- Has the pressure gauge & sight glass added.
- Roundhouse Goodall valve installed.
- Dummy crosshead & drag link added.
- Black cylinder covers added.
- I have the kit for adding Walscharts valve gear if you're interested.
- Still have the Roundhouse filling syringe & top-off spray bottle.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I second to stop investing in anything that uses track power if you want to run live steam. The two just don't mix well unless you want to spend lots of time degreasing track. I have a few sparkies that are converted to onboard battery and the rest of the trains that run on my railway are steam powered. Also highly recommend Sammie, probably the best USA looking entry level model and it has the Roundhouse quality behind it, along with excellent part availablity when needed. Start small in steam, work up to that 4-4-0. There are plenty of those around and easy to find. For starting out, stay simple. Mike


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

snowshoe said:


> Why not just go simple with the electric engines so you have the money for the steamer. All you need is a few cars. Get the more expensive thing first. Then its easier picking up cars and deals come up.



Wise choice.. I'm almost done really buying Piko stuff, I have almost all of their PRR engines, and I'm 3 cars short on owning all their PRR freight cars. lol

So yeah.. I'm saving now..... It's going to be a tough decision on what live steamer to get first though...

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> How do you have this much money???????
> 
> you are NOT 2poor4gscale. LOL
> 
> ...



Like I said.. I'm hocking all my HO stuff.. and I had a heck of a lot of it.. so.. and I'm still hocking them, although the HO pile is dwindling down.. now..

THANKS FOR RUINING MY DREAMS!!! Well, I guess the 4-4-0 is out then..

Probably the first thing I really need to buy is...

LIVE STEAM FOR DUMMIES...

So I can brush or actually learn what the heck I'll be doing... 

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

rexcadral said:


> I have a Roundhouse Sammy I'll sell you for way less than what you're saving for. It has an American profile, is dead-simple to operate, and gave me my first year's enjoyment of steam before I committed to a more "museum quality" piece of equipment. For the record, I started this hobby with a PIKO digital starter kit, including extra PIKO track and the wireless for the controller (which I think is actually quite nice!). I sold all my PIKO gear (at a loss) to get into live steam. My advice to you would be to stop investing in track-power if you're even remotely interested in steam. You'll get the bug.
> 
> PM me if you're interested in Sammie. Here's some details:
> 
> ...



You started the same way I got back into it G Scale. lol. I just ordered the wireless adapter. Well, Live Steam for me, will only be like a once in a life time thing, so probably just 1 engine will be all I'll ever have or get because of the cost, I'll be lucky to afford the electrics once all my HO stuff is gone. I've seen some of their pricing for like K4's which would be my ideal engine, but na.. never be able to afford that on my salary. I think one would keep me happy, but it'll have to run with electrics as well, and probably R/C added to it..

I'm not much of a "kit" person, and probably couldn't install anything related to a live steamer.

I'll have to take a look at sammie though and see what it's about...

Thanks for the info and the offer on Sammie.

Steve


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Steve, when you convert to onboard battery, you remove the wheel contacts. Then operation with both live steam and battery power isn't a problem. Also removes the need to clean the track other than removal of leaves and large debris. You need to get Tag Gorton's book, Steam in your Garden. Has a whole plan on how to afford live steam and build a really nice garden railway on a budget. The baisc Sammie without the upgrades is around $650 from Jay over at the The Train Department. Even with the upgrades it is way below the cost of the 4-4-0. Sammie will handle the tighest of curves and look really good pulling log buggies or ore tipper cars ect. Seen a few Sammie's all weathered up and they really look good! Check out Jason's site over at The Train Department, he has most the major brands of live steam your looking at. MIke


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

2poor4Gscale said:


> Like I said.. I'm hocking all my HO stuff.. and I had a heck of a lot of it.. so.. and I'm still hocking them, although the HO pile is dwindling down.. now..
> 
> THANKS FOR RUINING MY DREAMS!!! Well, I guess the 4-4-0 is out then..
> 
> ...


sammie is a basic series. that means it isn,t insulated either.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a picture of Sam, running his Roundhouse Sammie. As you can see, it will pull a heck of a load...


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Steve,
Pursue your dream! You got the best endorsement from Dwight. You likely won't run electric and live steam at the same time anyway. 
My favorite "large" live steamer is my Accucraft C-16 which isn't insulated. Some years ago I was invited to run it on a display layout at a big train show in Syracuse, NY. I put it on the track to prepare for running and suddenly all the electric guys were scrambling to find out why their locomotives stopped. My steamer blew the breaker in their transformers. We had a good laugh over that one.
BTW, Rex's Sammie has some great add ons and I also endorse its simple runability. I've always wanted one, maybe I should get it. 
I'm totally live steam now and so pleased with having climbed the learning curve. My spring project is going to be a coal-fired, DJB boilered, Lady Anne chassis (thanks Jeff) with body work representing Coolum, an Aussie sugar cane loco.
Have fun,
Tom


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

*SAMMIE*

*Sammie is the second of our 'Basic Series' locomotives. Though freelance in design, he is styled after the many small to medium sized saddle tank locomotives from such builders as Baldwin and Porter . Personalise it to your own requirements with the aditional parts and accessories available. 

Specification for basic model is :- 

0-4-0 inside framed chassis with double acting slide valve cylinders operated by slip eccentric valve gear (see FAQ's).
Internal gas firing using the ROUNDHOUSE 'FG' gas system.
Controls fitted as standard are:- steam regulator, safety valve, displacement lubricator and gas regulator.
Dimensions (loading gauge) are:- length 265mm over buffers, width 118mm, height 145mm, weight 2.1Kg.
Supplied only in black livery with silver grey smokebox and red oxide roof.
32mm or 45mm gauge (non adjustable) please state when ordering.
 *NOTE* Insulated wheels are not available on this model and a gas filling adaptor is required.. 
Accessory Packs

To further enhance and customise your 'Sammie', we offer the following accessory packs for you to fit yourself.
These come with all necessary parts and full instructions (except for the r/c fittings kit which does not include the radio control equipment). 


Pressure gauge with syphon.
Water top up system (including water gauge).
Radio control fittings kit.
Clip on cylinder covers.
Dummy slide bar and crosshead for cylinders.(as Lady Anne)
Dummy slide bar, crosshead, combination lever and union link for cylinders. (as Darjeeling 'B' class)
 
For further details on some of these add on parts, goto our Enhancements page. 








'Sammie' from the front. 
* *Return to top of page If you arrived at this page directly from a search engine or a link from another web site, please CLICK HERE to go to the full ROUNDHOUSE web site. 
* * [email protected]









© 1999 Roundhouse Eng. Co. Ltd.*


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## Malcolm (Aug 3, 2011)

The Roundhouse "Sammie" is an excellent locomotive. I have had mine since 2000 and have run it literally for several miles. It is the locomotive I normally run for visitors to the house due to ease of and excellent running to show them what live steam is all about.

The second video I added to this thread showing the Accucraft 4-4-0 running has my Sammie running at about 6:08. In the 3rd video I added to the thread, Sammie is running at about 5:36.

The following video has the 4-4-0 starting off at 0:00 and Sammie at about 7:03. Sammie can pull some cars.





 Both are excellent locomotives.
As to your question about RC a few days ago. All my steamers and my wife's are manual controlled. I like the close interaction with the locos when running.
Best Regards to All,
Malcolm


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

steamtom1 said:


> Here is a picture of Sam, running his Roundhouse Sammie. As you can see, it will pull a heck of a load...


LOL, that is awesome!! wow..

Thanks for the upload!!

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tom Bowdler said:


> Steve,
> Pursue your dream! You got the best endorsement from Dwight. You likely won't run electric and live steam at the same time anyway.
> My favorite "large" live steamer is my Accucraft C-16 which isn't insulated. Some years ago I was invited to run it on a display layout at a big train show in Syracuse, NY. I put it on the track to prepare for running and suddenly all the electric guys were scrambling to find out why their locomotives stopped. My steamer blew the breaker in their transformers. We had a good laugh over that one.
> BTW, Rex's Sammie has some great add ons and I also endorse its simple runability. I've always wanted one, maybe I should get it.
> ...


I so do want to pursue it.. Right now, I've got all the Piko stuff bought basically, unless I wanted duplicate of some of the freight cars I bought, so I'm kinda running out of things now to buy, I wish HO scale was like this, but no... when BLI came out with an engine, they had to do 6 or 8 different road numbers, which of course I had to try and buy all 8. At least I get a break with G-Scale. I know Rex's sammie sounds tempting, and I'm still thinking about it. Think I'll check a few of the web-sites and see what I can find in the starter line. I just wish they'd make them ore appealing. lol

Would be nice to have at least one live steamer, to fool around with.

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

I found this one, and at $999.99, not to badly priced, and it does look better...










http://www.reindeerpass.com/plantation-0-4-2-black-unlettered-live-steam.aspx


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

2poor4Gscale said:


> I found this one, and at $999.99, not to badly priced, and it does look better...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I believe it is a slightly-improved "Ruby". We discussed them versus a 4-4-0 on page 1 ?


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

looks similar but i think this one has a defferent chassis than a ruby (ruby category includes ruby #1, Ruby #2,ruby #5, Ida, Mimi,Forney


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

variant pics:
http://ebay.ch/itm/accucraft-ruby-1-bausatz-kit-live-steam-/260705215440


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the Mimi, Ruby #5 and the Plantation shown in the photos. Mimi has required work to get her into running form. ( There are threads on here about tuning the Ruby variants and modifications to make them better. ) Mine now has Radio Control , new burner to make it quieter and reversed valve timing for improved operation. New details to appearance changed how it looked from new. 

Both the Ruby#5 and the Plantation ran perfectly right out of the box. The Plantation is a really nice model for the money. Very well detailed and a good value. I typically get 25 minute runs out of the Plantation. 6 or so cars makes a nice length train . Log cars or tipper cars look good behind it, and it makes a smart looking passenger loco too. 

The Ruby#5 is a great little engine for just a fun day of running. It is small and compact and I can put a whole train in a single tote box to go out to the layout. I can get runs of 25 minutes by careful management of the burner . I get lots of interest when it is running. Most of the comments are about how small it is and " I didn't know that steam engines could be built that small and still run !" 

Charles M SA#74


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

I kind of like Ida..

I can't see me doing any kind of modifications.. too much of a noob for that..

Ste


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

You will quickly learn how to mod and improve your engine. Lots of threads on the Ruby's and her many sisters. The later versions have bigger cylinders and run better. Like any rod engine, espicaly prior to RC control, a decent load is needed to tame the throttle or you will have a little rocket ship on your hands. The Sammie, the Plantation and the Ruby #5 saddle tanker have a nice logging/mining look to them. I would still take a Sammie over the others just for piece of mind and parts availablity. Hard to beat a Roundhouse brand locomotive. Espicaly for the price tag of under $700. There is a company that sells on ebay that has a bracket to mount twin servos in the cab of the Ruby style engines. My friend has several of the Accucraft and they take a few hours of running in and a bit of tinkering many times to get the most from them. The Roundhouse runs well right from the box, but you would have to run in a brand new Sammie. Also keep in mind, the Ruby series have piston valves, the Roundhouse have slide valves. Slide valves wear in and just get better with use, Piston valves wear out over years of use. I am having fun with this one I just bought, he is a Roundhouse Argyll class engine. Mike


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Another vote for Sammie,
You will also get a much longer run from it. Under the faux saddle tank is a larger diameter boiler than the smokebox diameter would indicate. It would be an excellent learner locomotive both from a running and a possible modification standpoint. You can even use the rolling stock you have as Sammie could be the yard switcher.
And when you have saved the money for the 4-4-0 you can get back most of what you paid for Sammie. I've had Rubys and I love the little Regners but I would definitely advise the Sammie over the Plantation or other Ruby variants. 
Have fun,
Tom


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## E.V. (May 28, 2013)

2poor4Gscale said:


> I found this one, and at $999.99, not to badly priced, and it does look better...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Plantation is lovely little narrow-gauge steam locomotive with high detail. Details are much better than that of the Ruby, Sammie and Forney. The locomotive has a specific prototype - #3 Kahuku from Roaring Camp Railroad. In addition, she is an excellent runner with good traction force. Unlike Sammy, she does the reverse.
You can read a review of this locomotive from the Garden Rail magazine:
http://www.accucraft.uk.com/content/uploads/Plantation-Loco.pdf

Here is a photo and video of my Plantation:
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/135639/34094774.4/0_166e57_b2182a4b_orig





P.S. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I add my vote for the Sammie. I found the Sammie is controllable on some grades and is built well. I like how the gas runs out before the water. Its my engine I like to use when I cant pay full attention. I modified mine by adding trailing trucks to the back, details and wooden cab. 
I would stay away from the Ruby. I think the Sammie will be more reliable especially out of the box. The Sammie is Slip eccentric so you need to push the engine to set the eccentric in the direction you want it to run in. Its not a matter of turning a lever. For me that is not a big deal since mine is not RC but you can RC the throttle. Dont forget the Regner line like the Konrad and Lumberjack.




















Regner Konrad





Regner Lumberjack


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

i know i will be beaten up for saying this, but my vote for a beginner engine goes to the ruby. mine is reliable, well-built, can be easily set up with R/C, and it can be easily modified(i added running boards, and i built a new 7/8ths scale cab for mine.)
also, the gas runs out befor water does.

Oh,let's not forget a Mamod engine(AKA Piece of Trash). LOL!


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

E.V. said:


> Plantation is lovely little narrow-gauge steam locomotive with high detail. Details are much better than that of the Ruby, Sammie and Forney. The locomotive has a specific prototype - #3 Kahuku from Roaring Camp Railroad. In addition, she is an excellent runner with good traction force. Unlike Sammy, she does the reverse.
> You can read a review of this locomotive from the Garden Rail magazine:
> http://www.accucraft.uk.com/content/uploads/Plantation-Loco.pdf
> 
> ...


Great video!!! She looks nice!! and BTW, fire the engineer in the pic, he doesn't look happy to be behind a live steamer!!

Thanks for the vid!!

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

snowshoe said:


> I add my vote for the Sammie. I found the Sammie is controllable on some grades and is built well. I like how the gas runs out before the water. Its my engine I like to use when I cant pay full attention. I modified mine by adding trailing trucks to the back, details and wooden cab.
> I would stay away from the Ruby. I think the Sammie will be more reliable especially out of the box. The Sammie is Slip eccentric so you need to push the engine to set the eccentric in the direction you want it to run in. Its not a matter of turning a lever. For me that is not a big deal since mine is not RC but you can RC the throttle. Dont forget the Regner line like the Konrad and Lumberjack.
> 
> 
> ...


Pretty awesome railroad!! 

Seeing these, ugg.. decisions.. back to looking at what's available again..

Steve


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Haha its never an easy decision. It really comes down to what your pocket can afford. Out of the affordable ones, what appeals to you the most (7/8th scale, 1:20 scale or 1:32 scale, American or UK style) and what one operates the best. If the 4-4-0 appeals to you and that's doable it is a good choice. The Ruby is on the lower end of the price range and not a bad engine but are known to have issues. I think for a little more the Sammie will run great and its from a company with a great reputation. The Accucraft Plantation and Forney are a step up from the Ruby. My Forney ran great for years but is now showing wear and its hard to get parts unless you know someone who can make them. But that's with any live steam. Roundhouse is just easier to replace worn out parts.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

You said you are from PA. What part? You close to Milford PA in the Poconos? If so you are welcome to stop by and test out a few of mine and see what one you like.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

If I ever get a Sammie, wanna work your magic on it Shawn? That looks awsome and takes an engine that is "kind of on my list" and makes it one I would love to have someday soon. Great videos, I get so many ideas from your railroad. Mike


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike Toney said:


> If I ever get a Sammie, wanna work your magic on it Shawn? That looks awsome and takes an engine that is "kind of on my list" and makes it one I would love to have someday soon. Great videos, I get so many ideas from your railroad. Mike



Thanks Mike. Let me know when you get one. Its a great steamer and I would love to pick another one up someday but cash flow is very limited these days. If your on Facebook I have a page dedicated to my railroad. Just hit like and you will get updates. If you dont you can still view it here
https://www.facebook.com/Kittatinnymtrr/?ref=bookmarks Just hit no thanks and you will still have access. I have some short video clips and lots of pictures.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I hear ya on limited cash flow. I only got the Argyll as I wanted a UK profile engine with proper valve gear for RC control. The next engine wont need that. I think my wife got me a Ruby #5 for Christmas, but she has been very sick, so we haven't done our gift exchange yet. I wish I would have gotten that used Sammie that was in the classifieds here awhile ago. The look of yours with the added details and trailing truck is more what I would like than how Sammie comes from the factory. It will be a toss up between one of the RH basic series for the next engine I buy. A lot depends on me getting back to work, jobless right now. I start with vocational rehab later this week, see what they can find for me that better agrees with my autism. I did just order the 32mm wheelset, some steam oil and a semaphore kit from Jay. I really want to relay my garden line to 32 mm gauge with more of a UK garden railway look. I can regauge my LBG wheel sets to 32mm by shortening the plastic axle tube an equil amount on each wheel. But for now it will stay 45mm gauge. Next thing I need to save for is RC for the Argyll. Really want to go with one of those new RCS set ups as I dislike having a huge handheld RC unit. I will check out the facebook page, my wife does the whole facebook thing, I dont. But I can see it via her page. Mike


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

snowshoe said:


> Thanks Mike. Let me know when you get one. Its a great steamer and I would love to pick another one up someday but cash flow is very limited these days. If your on Facebook I have a page dedicated to my railroad. Just hit like and you will get updates. If you dont you can still view it here
> https://www.facebook.com/Kittatinnymtrr/?ref=bookmarks Just hit no thanks and you will still have access. I have some short video clips and lots of pictures.


I have a Sammie to sell, I can either kitbash it for you, or I can sell it to you as-is and you can hand it over to other hands. PM me for details.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

rexcadral said:


> I have a Sammie to sell, I can either kitbash it for you, or I can sell it to you as-is and you can hand it over to other hands. PM me for details.


Thanks. If I had the money I would have jumped on it. My cash is strapped until my wife is done with maternity leave.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I will see if I can afford his Sammie, I PM'd him to see what he is asking. I am thinking of trying to sell off my 2 rail O scale stuff and maybe pare down my G scale a bit. Lots of it never gets run. I usualy pull my euro cars with the steamer, the Kalamazoo cars and the Autism Express. The rest just sits, including my nice 2019 C&S mogul that has onboard battery in the locomotive(that was a b_tch to install!). Love the pics on your facebook page, will check them out some more later! Mike


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

i may also be interested in the sammie, if mike doesnt buy it.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I sent a couple PM's but when I go look at my sent PM folder it doesnt show any. Anyhow, I will post it here to, Send me your thoughts on pricing for Sammie and we can go from there. Thanks Mike


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

snowshoe said:


> Thanks. If I had the money I would have jumped on it. My cash is strapped until my wife is done with maternity leave.


 That boat sailed, Des wont want to work again...hehe


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I am going with Jay on this one!


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Mike Toney said:


> I sent a couple PM's but when I go look at my sent PM folder it doesnt show any. Anyhow, I will post it here to, Send me your thoughts on pricing for Sammie and we can go from there. Thanks Mike


I got both of them. Responded.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

snowshoe said:


> You said you are from PA. What part? You close to Milford PA in the Poconos? If so you are welcome to stop by and test out a few of mine and see what one you like.


Hey Snow.. I'm in Central PA, so you are probably about 3 hours from me, give or take a few..

and I don't get out much with work in the way. lol

But I do like that offer..

Thanks!!

Steve


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

2poor4Gscale said:


> Hey Snow.. I'm in Central PA, so you are probably about 3 hours from me, give or take a few..
> 
> and I don't get out much with work in the way. lol
> 
> ...


The offer is always their. But I understand, that work thing gets in the way of all the fun lol,


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Kovacjr said:


> That boat sailed, Des wont want to work again...hehe



Haha as much as she wants to stay home, reality is sinking in that you cant live on one salary in NJ lol........


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Well as an update.. I still haven't went out and bought one, I do have $1,200 in the kitty fund... I just can't seem to be able to press the buy button on any of them. And I'm only about $700 shy on getting the 4-4-0 on the bay for $1,899.00 (new). Ugggg... I want one.......

I have one more electric Piko engine being worked on now. Mike and Renee are installing a Zimo DCC and Phoenix P8 sound card in a 2-6-0 Mini Mogul for me. Kinda can't wait to get it..

So has anyone gotten any new loco's that I haven't seen, that might be interesting for a first timer?

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

you should came to Cabin fever- it was at the lebanon expo center. i would have left you run my ruby


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> you should came to Cabin fever- it was at the lebanon expo center. i would have left you run my ruby


You have a pic of your Ruby with all the modifications you did to her? I'd like to see....

Stev


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

At 9:10 my ruby starts running.






best wishes on your journey into live steam!


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> At 9:10 my ruby starts running.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Aaq3OOJUdA
> 
> best wishes on your journey into live steam!


Your Ruby looks awesome.. Great mods..

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

i should add that, it is easy to modify your engine. i did those mods with a coping saw,sandpaper, drill, superglue, paint, and some parts of a broken electric engine (bell, whistle, pilot truck, are all from a bachmann big hauler. the pilot was a delton part. the headlight i built out of wood with a peice of tin bent for the vent.


try coming to the ECLSTS in york. we will be steaming there


honestly though, for a beginner, i vthink starting with a ruby will be good. it is fun to operate where as starting with a big, heavy, gigantic, engine will be too overwhelming. but if you have your heart set on a 4-4-0, go for it!

have fun steamin'



nate


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> i should add that, it is easy to modify your engine. i did those mods with a coping saw,sandpaper, drill, superglue, paint, and some parts of a broken electric engine (bell, whistle, pilot truck, are all from a bachmann big hauler. the pilot was a delton part. the headlight i built out of wood with a peice of tin bent for the vent.
> 
> 
> try coming to the ECLSTS in york. we will be steaming there
> ...


When is ECLSTS.. not sure if I can make it, but I can add it to my calendar. lol

I'm not much into mods... usually everything I touch turns to how you say.. kaka?? lol and for some reason, the 4-4-0 is biting really hard... I have a set of 4 overton coaches I got, it's actually a set from USA trains, combine, 2 coaches and an observation car. got a good deal, but the guy kinda lied when said new.. when I got one, the handbrake was broken off on one car, I gave up and tossed them aside.. after a month and finally writing USA trains, they have PARTS!! yeah.. so I might be able to get it fixed which means....

I NEED A NEW ENGINE to pull these cars! lol

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Steve, buy what you like. Go for the 4-4-0!! it may not have insulated wheels, and trust me, when i got my ruby, i was worried that i would be able to run with my other trains, but arfter i got here, i realized running the 2 simultaneously is not practical anyhow.

dont worry about it being un insulated. but first, invest in a large radius circle

it will navigate a 8' dia. circle, but i would buy a 10' diameter circle in case you get a lrger engine. and remember, the wider the curves, there is less friction and they look better.

have fun!

PS if you ever get to york with your engine, let me know!

http://www.charlesro.com/store/merc...de=CRSC&Product_Code=R81700&Category_Code=GRT


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Nate, have you run the 4-4-0 on a 4' radius? These are not happy on a tight curve like that. You will need at least 5' radius. And with that you will need to control the speed. I'm aware they list 4' but its just not recommended.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

jason, that is exactly what i said- and the link is for a 10' dia. curve.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Trying to keep these threads straight,
The Pearse Colorado was my third live steamer and I still have it! As Jay said it is 1:22.5 scale and generic enough that it can haul almost anything. I use it with Bachmann freight and passenger cars. Probably the reason you don't see much on line is it's a classic, not made anymore. It is well constructed by Ian Pearse.
The only possible concern is the RC would be old, possibly 75 mHz, I'm not sure but I updated mine to newer 2.4gHz with components from Hobby King a while back. If I were doing it today I'd use Tony Walsham's components.
Can't understand the complaint about it being loud with all the chuffer conversions going on. ;-)
I would recommend the loco to you Steve as excellent for your passenger cars. With its short wheelbase it will also negotiate fairly sharp curves. When I got it my railway was 4' radius. It was soon upgraded to 5' radius and now 10' radius. Go as big as you can.
Have fun,
Tom


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tom Bowdler said:


> Trying to keep these threads straight,
> The Pearse Colorado was my third live steamer and I still have it! As Jay said it is 1:22.5 scale and generic enough that it can haul almost anything. I use it with Bachmann freight and passenger cars. Probably the reason you don't see much on line is it's a classic, not made anymore. It is well constructed by Ian Pearse.
> The only possible concern is the RC would be old, possibly 75 mHz, I'm not sure but I updated mine to newer 2.4gHz with components from Hobby King a while back. If I were doing it today I'd use Tony Walsham's components.
> Can't understand the complaint about it being loud with all the chuffer conversions going on. ;-)
> ...


I'll have to wait for Jason on this one, see what he says, didn't realize it was used, but whatever. I still like the looks of it, my concern though is getting it serviced if there is ever any trouble. Especially at $1,800.00. But.. still looking lol. Due to the fact I'm inside right now 4' is all I can go for now, once I move, I'm sure I can do 5' but not sure about 10'. Outside, huge yard, but..... building a garden railway by myself, um. yeah.. lol ok. I'll have to get a how to book on that, and read up. I know a lot talk about the "raised" railroad, which is probably a good idea. But the yard will give me enough room to do just about anything...

Steve


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

The Pearse is on a whole different level of quality over an Accucraft IMHO. And not a common model to be up for sale as those that have them, never sell them. Most of the wear parts are not beyond Ryan or others to remake if needed at some point. But not seeing others wearing them out. That engine would tollerate a wider variety of track over the 4-4-0 as well. And Ian is still around running the UK side of Accucraft, so he could answer any tech questions that others cannot. I still have issues of Steam in the Garden from when that engine was new on the market in the 1990's. They were expensive back then as well. I would place Pearse engines on the same level as Roundhouse. Mike


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd agree with Tom and Mike, Pearse engines are very well constructed and will last for years and years if properly maintained. Twenty years ago, Roundhouse was still primarily building generic models with few if any details -- nothing like what they've been doing the last couple of years. At that time, Pearse locomotives produced generic engines, but also a series of well-detailed models that were excellent performers. I had a Pearse "Countess", and while it didn't have quite the scale fidelity that Ian was able to achieve with the Accucraft UK version of the same engine, it was a big step up from anything else on the market at the time, and it would still hold its own today. Definitely investment category.

On most well-made engines, the wear points are going to be valves, valve gear and wheel bearings. None of these items are impossible (or prohibitively expensive) to have replaced.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

it looks like a mix between a RH SRRL and a LGB mogul


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> it looks like a mix between a RH SRRL and a LGB mogul


I would almost say Piko mogul. LOL

I'm liking it though, but.. can't seem to find it.

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

if if was mixed with a piko mogul, it would break and stop working!! LOL


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Here is pic of the Colorado by Pearse Locomotive Works. Mike


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