# Power Tool Batteries?



## jaycosnett (Jan 4, 2008)

Sorry if this has been asked and answered before (I searched but didn't find anything), but, does anyone have any opinions about using cordless power tool batteries/chargers for RC/Battery conversions?

This once caught my eye for a couple of reasons:

12 Volt Lithium-Ion Replacement Battery 

Advantages I'm thinking might include:
[*]Cost ($20 for battery, $15 for charger) [*]Fast charging plus low-cost for additional batteries mean I could swap batteries instead of wiring up charging jacks and switches [*]Size--seems reasonably compact for tender installations [/list]On the downside, it's not a "smart" charger, so reviews warn against over charging. Also, 12V might not be enough for some, but I'll be running small locos (Aristo C-16, old style, and maybe a Bachmann Annie) pulling short trains, slowly, so I'm thinking that should be OK?

But, you all are the experts, so let me know what I'm missing here.

Thanks!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

First off I consider Harbor Freight to be more of a throw away tool company, If I need a tool for a job I'll go there, but if I want a tool for every day use, I get a quality tool. 
12v isn't enough In my opinion. a 14v pack would suit you much better. 

John


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

I prefer Bosch. They make man 18v Lithium that charges very quickly and lasts long. 
TOM


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

What are you going to use to control speed????? Just the battery????? 

If so, you might use the 11.1 batteries... They will run the Annie at a fair clip and the C-16 bit slower..

11.1 4400 Mah

11.1 Charger 

However, if you are using a controller, it would be my suggestion to use a 14.8 Li-ion battery with pcb protection like these which I've used very successfully for years.. They'lll run the Annie and C-16 just fine.

Get 2 or more so you can replace and recharge for continuous running... Yes, a bit more expensive up front but more economical in the long run... 

Smaller pack 

14.8 5200 Mah Pack

Larger pack for the same money... (I use some of both depending on space available)

14.8 6600 Mah Pack 

14.8 Charger


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## iaviksfan (Dec 27, 2007)

I bought for my son, (12 yr old) a Harbor Freight 14.4v drill, just so he could "help" me once in awhile.... The battery held a charge for awhile, but never did recover well after charging. It was cheap and I figured it would work well for him. But its just sitting on the workbench now...... -Greg R.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Try googling "site:mylargescale.com power tool batteries". Several threads (I recalled several discussions a few years ago) came up, including http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/35/aft/121199/afv/topic/Default.aspx and http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/35/aft/120607/afv/topic/Default.aspx .


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## jaycosnett (Jan 4, 2008)

Hmmm... OK, what about using AA NiMH batteries like this: 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_403066-346-...URL=?Ntt=rechargeable+batteries+aa&facetInfo= 

A 10-battery holder would give 15V, and I can get a charger and 20 cells (for 2 "packs") for about $60. Plus, more cells/packs/chargers are quick and easy to get. 

Oh, and Stan, to answer your question, this would be under some form of RC, probably from either Del or Tony. 

Thanks for the input!


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

I personally have not had good luck with AA battery holders. I would consider the pre-packaged batteries that you can get from either All-Battery or Cordless Renovations. In addition I have gradually migrated to li-ion batteries. For me, they give me more amp-hours/pound and they do not self discharge when not in use like my ni-mh batteries do. Just my experience, and works for me.

Ed


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The holders just have poor connections, not a good way to go, you need to get a pack pre-made. 

You can buy them or try your drill batteries, but don't try to build the pack yourself is my advice. 

Greg


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

My experience with the battery holders is exactly the same as Greg's. I thought this was the real way to go a couple of years ago, but I had nothing but problems with the battery holders.

Ed


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

To give a further explanation: At low voltages (batteries as opposed to house voltage) a little resistance can lead to a lot of voltage loss compared to the total voltage. 

This is one of the reasons power is transmitted at high voltage then dropped down at our houses. 

All the extra connections of the battery connector springs is what makes it "lossy" and also affects reliability. In addition, what you can buy us usually chrome plated springs/contacts which is a poor conductor and the metal does not keep good spring tension. 

In toys, where you don't pull a lot of current you can do this, but in model trains, cars, airplanes, you surely won't find battery holders. 

Regards, Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

When I first started with Battery Power I used Chicago Electric Cordless drill batteries from Harbor Freight


I would bet about 3 hours run time on a charge.

They were a "T" style battery and I even made a clip to fit the contacts on the neck of the battery 

After a while they would not hold a charge but they were cheap. 

I am now on Milwaukee Nickel Metal Hydride? 

I have some Ridgid power tools from Home Depot.

Thier Lithium Batteries caused my engine to run in a jerky manor and some times even stop 

I fine that cordless drill batteries are the most universal and simplest way to go if your going to run a battery car.

After about 5 years of running cordless drill batteries I have added a 6 amp diode to the Positive lead of my Airwire decoder.

Sure enough the other night I hooked one up backward and the diode prevented me from wiping out my decoder board.

Thank you Stan. He is the one who convinced me to do it 

JJ 

e


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## Duke Snyder (Dec 27, 2007)

I also went with a power tool battery, as I have many Ryobi 18 volt tools, it was a "no brainer" to use those & they recharge in 45 - 60 minutes avg. I prefer the bigger green Lithium battery as it will pull a train at a modest speed for over an hour. I still use an older Crest controller in a trailing car with the battery & connect it to the engine thru a simple 1/8" earphone plug with the jack on the engine. I can install 2 jacks, one on either end if I want to run my NW2 backwards for example. 

After noticing the pitting on the wheels from track power, and the time to scrub the rail heads, I kick myself for not doing this 10 years ago!! It also runs very smoothly with no jerking from loss of power in spots. 

I didn't hide the battery or the receiver as everybody wants to know how the system works anyway.


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