# The Redwood Creek and Tallulah Ridge RR Expansion Project



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

After hours of inquiry on MLS,  planning and calculations, expansion of the RC & TR Railroad officially began today.  I will post pictures for those interested in following the progress.  I want to thank the  many who responded in previous posts with bountiful information, experience and tips.  It has been a great help.
 
I will be adding approximately 125' of track to the existing mainline which currently has 115'.  The original mainline is level and will host the town of Little Paddocks where delighted passengers will board and take an excursion through beautiful redwoods and see the majestic Tallulah Ridge.  The new expansion will allow passengers a front seat view of Angel Ridge while rising in elevation to an astounding 12" crossing over a dramatic trestle (yet to be named) over a lake (yet to be named) which is fed by Redwood Creek from  a dramtic waterfall (yet to be named).  
 
Enjoy the journey!
 








 
The first step today was to clean the new expansion area.  I removed the old drip line and landscape lighting.  I then set my sights on moving that boulder you see just behnd the shovel so the two lines coming through would not have any issues.  Boulder is now forward in front of the tree you see on the left.  It is now part of Angel Ridge.
 








 
This picture is from a previous post showing the proposed mainline addition.  Crude tools in Photoshop Elements allowed me to draw rough lines.  The line going behind the boulder in the foreground will start it's 2.3% grade climb and should be at 12" by the time gets to the front of the same boulder.  Once past the waterfall the line will begin to descend back to ground level by the time it comes around in the very front to connect to the existing mainline.
 








 
Here are the lines I painted today.
 








 
This is a cleaner view of the propsed line...I think I need to make broader curves especially in the upper corner.
 








 
Here are the materials for the ladder construction...1-1/2" PVC pipe for the risers.  1-1/2" x 5/8" Vinyl strips for the sides. You can see the bundles of rail in the back.  This will become flex track once the Train-Li Railbender arrives.
 
*Richard*


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

This is going to be interesting. I look forward to you posting more of your progress. Are you going to incorporate that statue in your layout like that big statue on the mointian in Brazill?

JJ


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

John...that is too funny because I was just asking my wife this morning what country that large statue was in...I couldn't remember...thanks for reminding me.

Richard


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Progress! Looking good so far! 

Chas


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Glad you're getting under way Richard. I look forward to the progress.


----------



## fred j (Jan 12, 2011)

Looking good, Looking good.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I spent the morning building a jig for the ladder system. This is really going to help in constructing of the ladder. Also cut the 1-1/2" PVC pipes into risers with an edge for easier pounding into the ground. Will need to get three more 10' sections of pipe since my calculations for riser space was based on 2' spacing. I've since decided to go with 18" spacing for a sturdier span. Also cut the spacer blocks. 

So once the glue dries on the jig I will be able to begin the ladder construction. I'm putting of driving the risers into the ground until tomorrow...too hot now.

More later,
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Started a little earlier this morning in an attempt to beat the heat. Started setting the 1-1/2" PVC risers in the ground and put in as many as I could until the old arm said no more. I hope the three Advil take affect soon







. 

My first pipe looks like the Leaning Tower of PVC...realized rather quickly that cutting a sharp edge on the pipe made the pipe want to lean as it got pounded into the ground. Quick fix was to make sure I held it as straight as I could...this worked on most. 











With so many risers to put in I decided not to work real hardgetting them to a proper depth. I was worried about the root structure of the three redwoods, but so far it doesn't to be a huge factor. I filled up each pipe with water to soften the dirt below allowing for an easier final setting.

I had to try out the new jig and build at least one section of ladder so I could see how it will look when it's officially installed...I'm quite happy with the results. 



















I need to finish the outer loop closest to the viewing area and then begin the process of creating my 2.3% grade. So for now the area just looks like a PVC forrest.










Also had to use my authority of Imminent Domain with some of the residents of the expansion location...yikes!!











More later,
Richard


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW! Huge Progress! Glad t youa re using the portable wind generator too! I could ahve used that myself last night and tonight is looking as humid as last night. Although only in the mid 80's with what has to be close to 100% humidity (isn't it supposed to rain at that level?) the sweat simply rolls into my eyes and onto my glasses making using ANY power tools a real challenge. 

Chas


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Chas...the portable wind generator, as you put it, is actually generator number 2...the first died this morning I think from all the sunlight and heat. Number 2 can also be hooked to a hose and becomes a mister as welll. Walmart...great purchase!! 

Thankfully it's not as humid as a few days ago...and nothing like what you are experiencing...it's just been over a hundred here with an abundance of sunlight. I'll try and get out later this evening and pound some more...my goal is to have all the risers in place by tomorrow so I can begin marking the grade. Thankfully our summer pool is right beside all the construction so I can easily jump in for a quick cool off...of course it might make using power tools an issue. 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

After a cool and refreshing swim in the pool I was able to get some of the risers set deeper. Filling each tube with water really helped soften the dirt making setting the risers a lot easier. Most are leaning a bit because of the angle I cut on the bottom despite trying to hold them straight...but they are proving to be very sturdy in the ground...so when I cut them down to actual size it won't be as noticable. I've got about half of them set for good...get some more strength etiher later tonight or wait until tomorrow early morning...

Should be ready to start setting the grade tomorrow!!

More later,
Richard


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

NICE! My progress was limitedto picking up a load of crushed limestone at the asphalt plant. They can get me crusher fines (I found out AFTER I had loaded up) so next week I'll go back. I am truying to get the belt/disk sander that I got for Christmas a few years ago and never set up put together dn placed in the garage to put an edge on the riser pipes so as not to have the same problem you had. I am also not going as high as you did. So I purchased some 1/4 inch galvanized screen after I got the gravel to amke a screen for it and started building it so I might as well finihs it. I think I am making this more difficult on myself? Thursday night I did get the garden ready for it by spreading the weedblock out and getting a load of mulch on it. MY plan is to take cut off shingles from the in-laws garage roof lay them over the weedblock and then lay the assembled roadbed one last time, driving the risers thru holes in the shingles, then preliminary ballast, lay the tracks and final ballast. Tis the plan anyhow. 

Chas


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I noticed in mine when I had a couple of "leaners" they worked out alright after I installed the ladder. But, you did figure out the source of the problem, the angle cut in the bottom of the pipe. 

As for the other resident, that would have me getting out my fogger and going all over the place with it. I cant stand'em.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Finally had a nice cool morning to work with. I didn't want to let it go to waste so I set the grade on each of the risers first establishing ground zero based on the existing mainline where the cut will be made. I then made that same level mark on the first riser. From there I raised the level of each riser 1/2 inch which is about an 1/16" more than planned...overall it has added a little more than an inch rise which will be good since the tallest car I have is a special Disney pirate ship I created for Jonthan's first birthday party and the opening day of the railroad. It only comes out on special occasions but I want to make sure it will clear any tunnels, etc.

I got one 12' section of ladder officially installed and have another 7 sections ready to go. Will probably wait until tomorrow morning to install some more as family responsibilities have me tied up the rest of today.

More later,
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm also excited because the Train-Li rail bender is on the FedEx truck for delivery today...things are moving right along...I just might get that dirt moved before Monday so I can get the travel tailer out of the backyard...gonna go and find some cooler temps in the mountains for a few days... 

Richard


----------



## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

You took a picture of a spider is that what i think it is a B W i hope not.I do not like spiders except for the t rex kind with hairy legs.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Yes Pete, it was a black widow hugging it's egg sack. Rest assured that the black widow and the egg sack are no longer a threat.

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Well, after moving about a yard and half of fill dirt yesterday in two - 5 gallon HD buckets to the expansion area the chief architect and laborer is finally taking a few days off to recoup in the beauty and splendor of some of the oldest living trees in the world at Grant Grove in Sequioa National Park. Couldn't use the old method of a wheelbarrow (except for hauling the buckets from the front to the back because of the raised bed and the pool being in the way. So had to hand carry a short distance to the site. The hard part to realize is that I need more dirt to cover the risers, especially at their tallest. I'm hoping to also utilize some cut rock from the local rock place... 

So upon my return I will commence with the expansion project. The Train-Li rail bender has arrived and is ready for duty. 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard keep the pictures coming everything is looking great.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Expansion work continued yesterday and today after about a week and half of being locked in my studio with projects. Taking advantage of some late and July cool mornings I've been able to make a little more progress. I've been very pleased with the ladder system being built. Everything seems to really firm up when finally screwed together. However I did run into a few issues that I've had to resolve.


1. I noticed the grade that one section seemed a bit too steep visually so in checking it out I discovered the grade was off by 1/2" at one spot and by the time I got to the end I was more than an inch. Not sure what happened except maybe I was in too big a hurry initally. Anyway, got it fixed and things look much better. And


2. Also decided to move 4 risers because the curve seemed a bit too tight for my liking. So instead of the train going behind the waterfall it will simply go through a tunnel behind it.


Anyway, here are a few pics of the progress...as always your input is greatly appreciated.


More later,
Richard






































I had to submit the ladder to the "Pirate Ship" test...it passed with flying colors and room to spare "Arggghhhh"


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Some tight corners there....Looking good though! Spacing on the risers and the spacer blocks is about what I've got too. 

Chas


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Yeah I was about 12" on center for my spacers and 18"-22" between posts. 

Are you gonna paint the white with a more neutral color like brown or leave it. I painted mine just in case some of the ballasted moved and you could see the ladder.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm thinking of painting them brown so the white doesn't show through to easily...its just finding the right paint that won't peel too quickly...any suggestions...Rustoleum or Krylon?? Now that I think of it the paint that you can redo plastic outside furniture with might do the tirick...

Thanks,
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By wchasr on 29 Jul 2011 09:49 AM 
Some tight corners there....Looking good though! Spacing on the risers and the spacer blocks is about what I've got too. 

Chas 


Well Chas...now you have me a bit worried. I have a few pieces of 8' diameter curve and decided to place them on one of my current curves...my curve is a bit tighter than the 8'. If I were to redo about 4-5 risers by bringing them out just a few inches I could achieve a good 8' curve. Now I need to do all the curves before I'm locked in...

I do appreciate your mentioning it to me.

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I've made the executive decision to adjust at least two curves to make them conform more to an 8' diameter...I know more is better but I just don't have the room. My plan has never been to run huge trains and I think my Connie will be able to negotiate this diameter curve fairly well. 

Also tossing around the idea of leveling the curves as well so the train is not actually climbing when going into the curve. What do you think?? I'm open to suggestions. I'll have to check what this does to my grade...don't think it will have a huge effect. So will see.

More later,
Richard


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

WOW for a minute I thought Chris Walas was there to visit you 

Looking good 

JJ


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Love the pirate ship car! Arrrrg! LOL 
First time I've seen pictures of the ladder system for trackbed, very interesting! That gives me something to think about with building my roadbed.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Welcome to MLS Amber!! You will find tons of helpful suggestions and just wonderful support for this hobby.

My ladder system is completely built from the suggestions given to me by others just in the past month and half. I've been very impressed how it has come together and proven to be very solid. 

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By Amber on 31 Jul 2011 10:22 AM 
Love the pirate ship car! Arrrrg! LOL 
First time I've seen pictures of the ladder system for trackbed, very interesting! That gives me something to think about with building my roadbed. 
By the way the pirate ship was featured during our son's 1st birthday party...he's now almost 5 and loves to pull it out to run around the railroad. So one of my big challenges is to make sure it can make it all the way around the new addition including going through tunnels, etc.

Richard


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome Amber! The Ladder roadbed method takes on a few different versions really. There are several of us currently building the version that uses the PVC trim board from Home Depot but others have used the Trex and other brands of recycled plastic wood composite decking board cut down with a table saw to make the ladder sides. Still others use metal or even pressure treated wood. I believe it is John J here that started with metal for his ladder but decided that using the metal as forms for the concrete roadbed was a better use of that material? Some of the deifferences are whether the roadbed will be backfilled or not and how often the ladder needs support and with what will i be supported. The PVC trim board definitely needs lots of support and should be backfilled. The Deckbaord because it has some wood fibers in it is a bit more self supporting but stills needs plenty of support. Can be backfilled or not but usually is. The other methods can be self supporting and in extreme versions of the live steam layouts the wood versions are built similar to a porch or a deck or a pool deck in that they are totally self supporting. They tend to focus more on running than creating a miniature railway out doors in teh garden or yard. To each there own. Many mix styles. Marty has a raised section specifically for those that bring live steam locos to his railroad while the balance of his layout in his yard is ground level and laid on a concrete foundation, mostly. 

Chas


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

What I like about the method of ladder system I'm using is the ease in creating an accurate grade. With simple tools such as a level, ruler, and a Sharpie pen I can create easily the grade I need. 

Richard


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I agree richard. When I was setting grade it was extremely easy to move the ladder up and down to get it how I wanted. 
Amber, for another look at using the ladder method, look at Chas's Thread and my thread DBH W.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

The expansion project continues as I've been reworking a few of the inside curves that were a bit tight. I've been able to re-adjust them to be 8' diameter which is the best I can do in the space I have to work with. I think they will work nicely with the trains I plan on running...I'm not a diesel guy so I don't anticipate running huge trains on my little 1920's era mountain railroad. I had a few issues to deal with since some the original risers only needed to be moved a pipe width out. So I decided instead of pulling out the original pipe which would weaken the ground surrounding it, to attach a second riser right next to it. I then installed long deck screws to attach the pipes together. Then I took small lengths of the pvc ladder strips and bracketed the pipes additional deck screws. It seems to be rather solid.










The only thing that is slowing me down besides the 100 degree temps is the waiting for the water I've put in the new risers to help penetrate the dirt as I pound them in the ground...it usually takes a day and even then the water is not completely gone...



















I must admit I feel better now about the curve diameter and look forward to being able to get some track laid very soon.

More later,
Richard


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard, nice solution! I'm not sure how well I could pull my risers out right now without a special tool (post puller). When Iw as installing mine I too wet them down inside and out to ease pounding them in. Go back and check out my thread again adn see the "weeder" I have. I was fortunate in that the PVC I used was large enough to allow the handle of the weeder to fit down inside and with the forked bit in the end, I could turn it by hand and use it somewhat like a "spade" drill bit for wood. This helped both in getting the water to saturate the ground inside the risers and I even succesfully "moved" some rocks out of the way enough to get the risers pounded in farther. There was only one riser that I could not get to budge any further. It was near the foundation of the house and behind the bush. I gave up and cut about an inch off it to make the ladder level. 

Chas


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Chas...I like that weed tool. It looks like it does a great job loosening things up to get the water to go deeper. I think I'll get myself one of those. My area is a raised bed that I filled with dirt. So that coupled with a few whacks with the deadblow hammer the risers come out fairly easily. That is of course if I haven't trimmed the excess pipe off yet. 

I checked the outer risers and thankfully they seem to have a good turning radius...I hope to have all the ladder installed in the few days...really ready to try bending a little track!! 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

So, do you fasten the track to the spacer blocks?


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm planning to do that...at least ever few feet so the track can still expand and contract with the weather.


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Amber, John J. here uses concrete road bed like Marty and a few others (Cliffy J is forming and pouring some this summer) John however uses a plastic concrete screw insert and some stiff iron wire to lopp over the ties to hold (not fasten) the track to the road bed. I'm thinking of doing somehting similar on my ladder roadbed. Again to allow for expansion and contraction of the tracks.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Hey Chas...do you know if John J has pictures on how he does this?? I'm interested in knowing a bit more about the wire...I'm also wondering if something like the "U" shaped stakes for drip irrigation would work...would you drill holes in the spacer, insert the stake or wire and then tie it on the bottom or bend it out so it doesn't work it's way up? 

Would be interesting in finding out. 

Thanks, 
Richard


----------



## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

To Tie bent Flex rail to a Curved ladder structure..... I use UV protected black cable ties. 

The cable tie is wrapped around the spacer block and 2 or 3 ties at 8 foot increments. 

This lets the rail Float both for/aft in ties & side to side up to 1/2"....... 

This requires precise bending to make the rails fit the curved ladder shape. 

NOTE: Don't try to rebend rail that is clamped at both ends !!! You will generate a "coiled snake" that will not set on the ladder structure.. 

Click on the LEFT Photo to see 2 Samples of my 340 ft elevated curved ladder layout.


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes John has shown his method of attachment to concrete many times. It's become a stock photo for him I believe? LOL! 

These are the parts he uses in concrete...

This is how it works in practice...

Polaris' idea of using Black or white zip ties or cable ties would work too.

Chas


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Chas, thanks for posting the pics...that really helps a lot. I drilled the blue concrete screws every 4 feet or so on my original mainline directly through the tie into the concrete. Hasn't been an issue. However I know I'll need something different on the ladder system. I like John J's wire method but also the UV resistant nylon tie idea. Will have to figure that one out or maybe try both methods to see which one works the best for me. 

I was able to make some more progress by actually starting on the outer (downhill grade) until I ran out of deck screws...so will resume in a day or so when I can actually get to the hardware store and pick up some more. 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

The expansion project is beginning to look like progress is being made. I was able to spend a few early mornings getting some work done on the ladder system which I've pretty much completed at this point. I've decided to add some concrete roadboad from the original mainline to the new addition. I'm also very pleased at how strong and solid the ladder system has become...although after the many riser were pounded in the ground I had only one stubborn one towards the end that refused to budge because of gravel I had forgotten about. So that one will be a little loose although it did tighten up when everything was screwed down. I also got the extra pipe above the ladder cut off and now the next task is to take my belt sander and lightly sand all the tops where the pipe was cut. Then I'm planning paint the ladder a tan color that will blend nicely with the dirt.

Have a few pictures for you to look at so enjoy...

More later,
Richard


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Looks great. Wondering why you are going to sand the top of the ladder?


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi Jake...clarification...I am going to sand some of the risers. I tried to cut most flush with the ladder but a few are just tad abov because of my terrible saw technique. So I'm going to sand those areas so it's level with the ladder. Then will paint everything earthy tones to blend in with the surrounding dirt.

Hope this makes more sense...

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Continuing to share my progress with the expansion project...I got out this morning with cup of coffee in hand and started to paint the ladder system. Boy what a difference from the stark white of the PVC. Will finish painting later today as I was one can short to finish...

If there are any dirt experts out there I could use some advice on how much more topsoil I need to cover the ladder. Take a look at the second photo which is the overall view...I called and got a quote for 3 tons which I guess is equal to 2 yards...I also plan to use some ammend and soil builder so the plants will have a chance to survive.

The next exciting step is to lay and bend some rail...

More later, 

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I laid the first 20 feet of track this evening and ran my engine in a fun little test run...everything went beautifully. I love the Train-Li dual rail bender and can't believe how easy it is to bend the track...Can't wait to get the rest of the rail installed. 

http://youtu.be/AOZegPt9FEE

More later, 
Richard


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

One thing Richard. 

I know you have already started laying track, but I would fill in around the ladder with your dirt first. It makes leveling the dirt up to the ladder easier and you dont get dirt stuck in between the ties on the track.


----------



## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard, 

Looking good! 

best, 
TJ


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks for the advice Jake...I was planning to do that. I just picked up some material that I can create a simple retaining wall for the fence side that people won't see. I plan to attach it to the ladder via left over spacer blocks. Also picked up some redwood to cut and craft into some nicer retaining walls that will be viewed. 

I just need to figure out how much dirt to get over all...although i can start with the pile I have and work my way forward. 

Richard


----------



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Ricgard, 

One thing to take account of is settling of the loose fill when figuring out how much you need. I reckon I had around 10% loss of height from when I first made my mountains with natural settling over 18mths or so (two winters). 

Cheers 
Neil


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not sure how to estimate by volume how much you will need but I've hauled two loads of mulch in, and now two loads of crushed limestone. Both measured differently. The mulch was measured by the Yard (using a half yard bucket on a skidsteer) and the limestone by weight using scales. The limestone did not go near as far as I thought and my ladder is not near as high as yours. I am geussing (truly) that you'll need more than one load. 

Chas


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Here are some up graded Photos of my method of anchoring.

This should work with wood screws too. 

Or sheet rock screws. 


You could randomly place these on the spacers between the side rails of the ladder system. 

The idea was to old the track firmly but allow some flex for some expansion 


Also it is very easy to remove a section if you have to. 

JJ


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

To clear up some stuff on units of measure. 

Chas mentioned that he purchased dirt by the yard and then bought rock by the ton. The yard measurement is actually a cubic yard. The reason you bought by the yard is the place you bought your dirt probably didnt have a scale to measure the actual weight, so they used the volume of the bobcat bucket to determine how much they gave you. Cu yard is a maesurement of volume, that is why when you order cement it is sold by the yard also. Most contractors know the length, width and height of the area they are going to pour the concrete in and order that way. 

As for the rock being sold in tons, that is because almost all quarries have a scale to measure weight of the trucks being loaded. Weight is a much more accurate measurement, plus you have to be careful you are not overloading a truck. 

So, to answer Richards question about how much he needs for dirt... 
Richard, measure how much area you are going to fill. Make it simple, get a rough height, width and length. Then convert the feet to yards and multiply those numbers together to get your cu. yards. Neil has a good point about settling, I would also concur that expect about a 10% settling. So over estimate on your dimensions. It isnt going to be totally accurate, but heck it will be close 

If the place to go to get your soil sells it by the yard, thats all you have to do. If it is sold by the ton, then you have a little more complicated figuring. Soil is very subjective when it comes to lbs/cu. yard, it depends on a lot of factors like how much peat is in it or rock and so many other things. I used around 85 lbs/cu yard in my area, but that may not work for you. You could ask the people who sell the dirt what they use. Once you have that, multiply the cu yards (area you are filling) by the 85 (or other number you get) and then by 2,000 (to get from lbs to tons) and you have about what you need.


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

"If the place to go to get your soil sells it by the yard, thats all you have to do. If it is sold by the ton, then you have a little more complicated figuring. Soil is very subjective when it comes to lbs/cu. yard, it depends on a lot of factors like how much peat is in it or rock and so many other things. I used around 85 lbs/cu yard in my area, but that may not work for you. You could ask the people who sell the dirt what they use. Once you have that, multiply the cu yards (area you are filling) by the 85 (or other number you get) and then by 2,000 (to get from lbs to tons) and you have about what you need"

Jake,

I think I'm missing something here. You say that you figured fill dirt at about 85 lbs/cu yard. I believe that number will be a lot closer to one ton/cu yard. Did you mean 85 lbs/cu foot? Just wondering that's all.


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Yeah your right Gary. I slipped on the units. I'm used to dealing in cu ft and not so much cu yard. 

So dont convert your measurements into cu yard if you want to figure out tons of material.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

My local dirt guy sells by weight because he said that 2 yards was equivelent to 3 tons. I picked up just under 3 tons when I made two raised beds for a vegetable garden...I had so much dirt left over because I figured both boxes would be competely filled with the dirt leaving just a little to throw elsewhere...figure my surprise when our landscape owner told us to fill only half the box with dirt and the rest with Amend and Soil Builder...I then new I had way too much dirt. So I moved the rest to the expansion area which has somewhat swallowed it all up. 

I'll install the plastic retaining wall facing the fence and backfill with the extra dirt I've put there...I will then have a better picture of what I will need to order. 

The track I've installed is easily pulled up as it is only tied down with nylon ties. I'll just mark with a Sharpie on the ladder where the ends meet so I can reinstall it easily after the fill dirt is added. 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Neil...thanks for the heads up about settling. I'll make sure I add 10-15% more just for that purpose... 

Richard


----------



## Therios (Sep 28, 2008)

Ok... so I have done the search... but came up with nothing. probably missed it during my hiatus. 

Where did you get the vinyl strips?


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I found mine at Home Depot. Not sure how the store is laid out where you are but mine had them in the back near the wood. I want to say the brand was Veranda but I'm not for certain. Strips I used were 1 1/2" wide by 12' long.


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I got mine at Menards and they were called Trimboard. I found mine by the garage doors. Same dimensions as Richards


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

There is a cooling in the air in Central California...can it mean some time back on the Redwood Creek and Tallulah Ridge expansion project...I think yes!! 

Stay tuned!!


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

That good Richard. Keep at it, I'm excited to see what the final product looks like.


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

That good Richard. Keep at it, I'm excited to see what the final product looks like.


----------



## fsfazekas (Feb 19, 2008)

Love to watch folks building new stuff!! I have basically zero time to play with trains right now so I live vicariously through you guys. I like the ladder system, I hope to try it when I land someplace permanent and can begin my empire. I've done a little bit of concrete roadbed as well and can see where a mix of the methods could be useful depending on the terrain. Best of luck to you as you move forward on your expansion, Richard!


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Jake and Frank... 

The pool came down today so now I can see the expansion area easily...next step is to order some more fill dirt and may get to it this weekend...let's hope. A storm is coming with the cooling temperatures and although we need the rain I hope it won't make things too muddy. 

More later, 

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Its hard to believe that it was last October when I last posted progress on my expansion project. Between my teaching position and my home recording studio it has been a wonderful but busy time. But not much time to work on the garden railroad. But now with only a week before I start teaching again I'm finally freed up and motivated to continue work. 


The ladder system I installed last year has held up beautifully and I've finally been able to move the dirt (ordered and delivered last October) to the area. Another backyard project also yielded another aproximate .75 yard of dirt enabling me to cover up the ladder posts. I recylcled some 2x6 redwood boards to raise the retaining wall in the far corner. Since our soil is mainly clay I've been hosing the area down to compact it.


I think I have enough dirt covering the posts and ladder to start laying the track down permanently. A new switch will be cut in to the existing mainline to connect the expansion to the original on one side. 


This is before the extra dirt was put in place...










This is after the fill dirt was added...










Thinking of using some left over pavers to build a retaining wall to keep the backfill of dirt in place. Our travel trailer will be backed up just in front of this area.










The inside line will be a curved trestle eventually crossing a small pond and stream and then going into a tunnel under a future waterfall on the curve in the upper left area. Lots of planning and thinking left to do on all of this...


----------



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

It looks good Richard. 

I've been busy like you and havent been able to work on my layout as much as I'd like. But, little steps are progress too.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm enjoying my new signature line at the bottom of my posts. Thanks to Stan Cedarleaf and his amazing talent at creating logos and signs!! I'm thoroughly happy with the logos and signs he created for my locos and cars...looking forward to getting them put on the stuff. If you want quality work like this I suggest you hook up with him!!

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Finally, the temperatures are in the mid-high 90s after a 19 day run of 100+. Hopefully it will stay below 100 for the remainder of summer. I decided to pull up a section of original mainline so my phase 2 section can be attached and track laid down. 

My goal today was to cut through my concrete roadbed at the point where the old mainline will connect with the new. The task went fairly smoothly except for some rebar that I forgot that I had installed before laying the concrete. Of course my saw wouldn't cut deep enough to cut the rebar so I went in search of a hacksaw but couldn't find it. Guess its time to clean the garage!! 

It looks like all I'll have to do is screw the end of the vinyl lattice of phase 2 to the side of the existing concrete roadbed for the connection. Once that is done I'll attach the other side (a little more complicated on that side) and the two phases will be one. 

Just now need some more weekend hours... 

More later, 
Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

After sitting for 2 years I'm finally able to get some progress going with the railroad. I'm hoping to be able to finish connecting phase 1 to phase 2 so the track can be laid. My goal is running it complete by this weekend. I have several Piko buildings in process just get something outside. I also just aquired a Bachmann 3-truck Shay which will be fun to run...just need to save my pennies for the radio/battery setup. 

Will post some pictures when in the next few days. 

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Enjoyed a productive morning as I was finally able to connect phase 1 (concrete) and phase 2 (vinyl trim/PVC posts) roadbeds. Things went rather smoothly except for the very back side where the connection was close enough to the pressure treated lumber raised bed wall that I had to cut some of it away. After notching some wood away I was able to make short work of drilling the holes for the concrete screws. My son Jonathan was very helpful in handing me tools, spray painting the ladder brown to match the dirt, and keep me hydrated with a supply of Sunny D. He's a great garden railroad apprentice. The only sad thing is now the new rule that neighbor kids are no longer allowed to wander around on the raised bed where the garden railroad resides...bummer.


Track will be laid perhaps Friday, but most likely on Saturday with a test run by Thomas and Percy since my Bachmann Connie is still awaiting the new gear box from Barry Olsen.

Big question regarding picture #2. What should I build as the lower track travels underneath the top track? Trestle or tunnel? There will be small water fall built just to the right of it all with the upper track most likely going into the mountain under the waterfall. As thre lower track emerges on the other side it will cross a future stream.

Richard


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Do what the big boys did, build a trestle and then back fill.First build your tunnel liner and then Bring on the dirt:










Yep they buried many a trestle.... makes a nice conversation piece...

John


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

The RC&TR experienced a major accomplishment today. All track has been laid on the mainline of the railroad!! Very excited with the 228.2 feet of track. Thomas and Percy were on hand to assist, as well as my son Jonathan. The neighbor kids were also present watching dad sweat his way through the day connecting the original mainline to the newer phase 2. Percy was the engine of choice for the test run around the track. Three non-stop trips around the track without much of a problem. There are a few areas (mainly on the old mainline) that need a bit of tweaking and tuning.

So very excited with all of this as we now set our sights on the trestle, waterfall, and tunnel. I've posted a few pictures for you to enjoy.

Richard


Thomas ensuring enough clearance. This will either be a short tunnel or trestle pass through...not sure of the official name.










Connecting the track. I ran out of my Split Jaw clamps and have some on their way from RLD Hobbies. Used some Aristo clamps for the time being.










Thomas, Annie, and Clarabel testing the area that will be covered by mountain and waterfall.










My lonely AMS coach...waiting for my Bachmann Connie to receive her new gear box from Barry, and someday having the newly purchased Bachmann 3-Truck Shay outfitted with RC/Battery.










Percy received the top honor to test the entire mainline today. He made three non-stop trips on the railroad without any issues. Probably could have done more but I needed a shower really bad.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Had a little fun this morning hooking up a video camera to my son's Thomas and videoing a trains eye circle tour of our newly laid mainline. More to come!! Enjoy!


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Well, lets try that again...

http://youtu.be/OIElZsg-kq8


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

One more time...


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

That's a fun run and a great looking crew you have there. They should keep you on your toes! 

Wow! Fracking wells! 

John


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks John,

It is a pretty good crew...two are neighbor boys learning about boundries and rules







. Its been a fun couple of days since getting the mainline done. Finally some noticable accomplishment. Now on to the waterfall and tunnel area and some scenery.

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Construction of a tunnel commenced yesterday with most of it being completed. Now just need to finish the top and paint the interior black. Will then backfill the interior below the rails and in front of the sub-structure so smallish rocks and boulders can be placed. Next big project is the waterfall and pond that will be housed just to the right of tunnel.

Richard


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Got the tunnel interior painted and capped. This video is first run into the tunnel with trusty old Thomas! Enjoy!


----------



## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Richard I am so glad to see a tunnel - looks very familiar even!! 

And great help from the neighbors kids, a little training goes a long ways!! 

Dirk !! Great going....!!!


----------



## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Richard

Project looks good. What did you use for spacers in the ladder? Found the other items but not the solid block stuff. Did you have to rip down trim pieces?

Alan W.


----------



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Alan! 

Both ladder strips and the spacers are Veranda vinyl trim. 1 1/2" wide by 5/16" thick and come in either 8' or 10' strips...I can't remember. Purchased from Home Depot mine were located at the back of the lumber section. I had to cut the spacer blocks 2" to make enought width for the track when the ladder strips were attached. I put spacers every 12" to 18" depending on whether it was a curve or straight section so the required width would stay constant. I've been extremely happy with the result so far. All of it sat for two years before I completed laying the track down. The only thing I had to do was trim the ends off where I hadn't attached it to the original concrete roadbed. The ladder does "mould" itself to the shape you create and kind of hardens. But everything has been solid right down to the PVC risers I pounded into the ground. 

Hope this helps. 

Richard


----------



## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Richard, 
It did thanks. I checked with our local HD and they don't carry the PVC edging/siding here. Lowe's has something like it and I'll probably go with that.

I saw that you have redwood trees in your yard. Had one that started as a seedling that daughter brought home when she was 10. Sadly we had to remove it about 15 years later when it was lifting the sidewalk and was taller than the power lines and resulting right-of-way encroachment. Would love to have a couple more now that we have space but they don't grow well in AZ dessert.

Alan


----------

