# Hartland Mack Dimensions?



## parkdesigner (Jan 5, 2008)

Need some help guys - looking for some dimensions of a Hartland Locomotive Works "Mighty Mack" engine. Anyone got one and a ruler out there? (Vsmith? Don't you own dozens of these things?!







)

Only curious about the motor block/brick/base - not the cab.

Need to know:
Length (not including couplers)
Width at the "foot plate"
Center to center of the wheels
Height from the top of the railhead to top of the "deck" (the floor of the cab)

Thanks in advance.









PD


----------



## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

PD, 
Length (not including couplers) 
5" 

Width at the "foot plate" 
1 7/16" 

Center to center of the wheels 
3" 

Height from the top of the railhead to top of the "deck" (the floor of the cab) 
1 31/32" (2") 

Please let me know if you need any other dimensions. I have one (three) at arms reach from the computer. 
Have a great day, Don.


----------



## parkdesigner (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Don! That's what I needed!! 

Also - any chance you could shoot a photo looking "head on" and one looking at the underside? 

Thanks again! Just trying to get a feel for "bash" options!


----------



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

...not quite a dozen yet, give me a couple more months


----------



## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

Here you go PD,


----------



## parkdesigner (Jan 5, 2008)

Great! Thanks Don! 

Question - is that how the "motor block" comes from HLW, or have you stripped it of sides, detail, and ends? 

Thanks!


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

That's the way it comes. It's a very simple and easy to work on motor block, but there are no details whatsoever and the unit simply snaps into place with two tabs. 
Chris


----------



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Please Be Aware. 

There IS a light, on a brass rod that sticks straight up thru the center about 3 inches high on the Mack power brick, I've always work it around my many bashes so I cannot recommend how to remove it, others here can hopefully do so, but it may be necessary to remove it for bashing a body around it. 

Just want to give you a * heads up* on it


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Good point, Vic. The light is removed VERY easily. The plastic housing of the block is three pieces, a top plate , middle section and a bottom plate. Remove the four screws from the bottom of the block but do not remove the bottom plate. Instead, hold the bottom plate in place and remove the top plate (with the brass tube holding the light). The two wires from the light are usually simply wedged in place in two of the plunger pick-ups. Simply pull gently to remove, replace top and screw shut. I love working on this motor block (as well as the smaller one from HLW) as they are so simple even I don't get confused! 
Chris


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Just for clarification, I just did the light removal operation. Took less than two minutes (mostly screwing and unscrewing). 
Here's the unit from the bottom. You can see how much space there is between the block and the frame.









From the top, you can see where the brass light tube comes through the frame. It is attached to the motor block and not the frame;










One of the snap tabs is angled so you can lever a screwdriver in to gently pry it wide enough to pop the block out;









Here's the motor block as it pops out of the frame. The brass tube is merely sitting in place and held there by the bulb of the light. Here you can see the three sections of the block.









Simply remove the four long screws from the bottom. 









On this one, the motor came up with the top section. The motor has stayed in the middle section with previous lite removals. Anyway, you can see the two wires for the light simply sitting in place to be press fit against the electrical connection in the middle section. They just lift free, there is nothing holding them in place, they are not connected to the motor at all.








Just pull the light and the brass tube free, replace the top (and motor in this case), and screw it shut. You're done! 









Chris


----------



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Great "how to do it" pics, Chris



















For everyone, Do this part VERY[/b] carefully, as the tab CAN[/b] break off if pried too hard or too far out. I pry it carefully up while gently pulling the block up on that end at the same time, I've thought one need three hands to do this but its actually easy once you get the hang of it. As you pry up the tab, feel for the block to move, once it moves up, let it slip up and take the pressure off the tab, the block can then be removed and later reinstalled securely.


----------



## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Also of note to bashers, the LGB block that fits the motorized tender (I know it's used for other stuff, but that's all I know it from) snaps right into place in the Mack and is a perfect fit.








Chris


----------

