# painting an undec



## ShadsTrains (Dec 27, 2007)

I have decided that I need to get back to the hobby a bit..  I've been too involved in a million other things and forgot why I started this site in the first place.  Over the past 7 years, I've had several items with the intention of doing a project around them.  I'd like to get at least 1 project under my belt..  

Some time ago, I purchased an undec GP38-2.   I have a vision for it..  Now where do I start?  I assume I need to prime it before painting it further.  What kind of primer should I use.  I don't have an airbrush..  Will the hobby spray cans work ok?


----------



## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Shad, 
Give it a good cleaning first. 
I've used just about every primer on the market and can't see any difference from one to another other than price. That might be because, I don't leave my models out in the weather. I've got two air brushes and a spray gun, but have used spray cans on smaller projects with a lot of success. 
Keep the tip clean and change it when cleaning becomes impossible. 
Make sure you have a nice temp in your well ventilated area. 
Make sure there's no dust anywhere. 
Make suer the piece is clean, well support and that you can move it with out toching it 
Don't over spray because you're in a hurry 
Make sure to wait the suggested length of time between coats (I've had paint curdle up on me from painting too soon or waiting too long, but not long enough) 
Watch out for sputters. They're a b#%ch to sand out the little clots that get errupted 
Even strokes about 8 inches from the piece. 
Keep a rag on hand to blot out runs 
What ever is suggested for clean up for cleaning the tip 
And you should be ok. 
Someone else will have to recommend paint and primer brands, because I just don't see the difference in a lot of them.


----------



## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Shad,
For what it's worth.
Since your stuck with rattle cans I would suggest Krylon Paints if you can get the right colors in that brand.
Use Krylon Primers regardless of brands of other coats for two reasons.  Krylon will not affect the plastic
and Krylon can be recoated at anytime with no bad results.

Couple of hints for using rattle cans.  Soak the can for 5-10 min. in very hot TAP water,  before using this increases the can pressure 
and makes the paint lay on better. use very light coats and start and stop spray beyond the project.  It is far easier to add additional coats
than it is to sand out runs.   Just my own idea but I let the paint completely dry between color changes.  That is wait 2-3 days until all odor 
has dissipated from the project.  

The distance of the can from the project as you spray is important, within limits. To close and the paint loads on the project,  to far away the 
paint can dry before reaching the project, depending on ambient temp, and leave a stipple finish.  best bet is to use cold drink cans to practice on.  Smooth ones first
then slightly crumpled ones.  If you can get a satisfactory finish on those you will do very well on your model.

Hope that helps you some.
Rick.


----------



## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Shad
Previous replies give the idea, I have not found Krylon this side of the big pond but I have had good results using Tamiya Acrylic paints in rattle cans both primer and colour. It goes on plastic really smoothly and a few thin coats build up a really good depth of colour.
Regards
Bunny


----------



## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmmmmm.. I have an inkling that it'll be mostly Grey with a Red belt and for some strange reason the letters U.R. keep floating through my head.. 

All the above post tell the tale, all great suggestions. 

If you've got a lot of these types of projects on the docket, you may want to consider getting an aribrush. Our buddies at Harbor Freight have a great deal going on now..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95630

I'm planning on picking one up myself.. If you're not on a tight schedule you can play with it when I get it... I'm thinking May-ish..


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Shad,
  I have an airbrush that I purchased new at my LHS which I have never used. If you are interested, I would be willing to let it go for a fraction of what I paid for it. (It's not doing me any good so _somebody_ worthy should have it!)  Just contact me back-channel if you're interested.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Shad, some guy from Colorado is currently running a series in _Garden Railways_ about painting locomotives. Part 2 will be out in three or so weeks.  

Later, 

K


----------



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Shad, 

Just about to finish my own GP-38-2. Got to say the advice from the folks on this web site has been unbelievable. I will concur with the above advice with Krylon primer. I used 2 different primers on the model (not sure I remember why), but the Krylon laid down a lot smoother than the Rustoleum. I will admit it is getting difficult to find the Krylon (HD and Lowes don't seem to carry it in Florida)--I have seen it at Michael's Crafts and at a local Ace Hardware. 

I used the grey primer--I will say the color of the primer will effect the final color--in my case the grey was a good choice for the dark blue I used. 

Another thought, I have tried to paint in the summer in Florida (outside--no spray booth) and it is a no go with the high humidity--makes a very rough finish. Too hot or too cold seem to mess up the paint job as well. Just some thoughts. 

As for a finish coat--I have used my external mix pacche airbrush for the last 20 years, I have an expensive internal double action brush for weathering, and I love my simple external mix brush. It is easy to use and easy to clean, and cheap to repair if I mess up a tip. 

I used Poly-S acrylics over the Krylon, and for a finish coat I use Future floor wax--yah I know until I used it I did not believe it either. But it is great! Out of the bottle it airbrushes well for a gloss coat, then I mix it with Tamya flat base 1 part flat base to 4 parts Future for a flat finish coat. If you can walk on this stuff, it should be tough enough to protect my decals. 

Just what I do, hope it helps. 

Matt


----------

