# LGB Mogul (2019s) chuff sound woes



## Thud_11 (Dec 18, 2013)

I recently purchased one of LGB's iconic C&S Moguls off of Ebay, listed as in very lightly used condition (from an estate sale), with absolutely no issues whatsoever. I received the loco the yesterday and ran it on my overhead layout and found that the "chuff" sound works flawlessly for about 5 minutes of run time before it eventually starts to get quieter and quieter, until it can't be heard, and the loco just hisses like it was at a stop. If I leave it alone for a while and come back, the chuff magically works again until the same issue occurs. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong and how to fix it? I love the old LGB analog sound, and would like to fix this if I can. I've been away from the hobby for years, but am fairly technically inclined, so a minor fix would be within my grasp--otherwise I guess I have a lemon on my hands that I'll have to pay someone to fix. Thanks in advance for any help guys! - Thud


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Have you checked or replaced the 9v battery. It is usually under the coal load on the top of the tender.

Chuck


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## Thud_11 (Dec 18, 2013)

I have, it's a fresh one. I don't think It's a power issue considering the "hissing" sound, along with the bell and whistle function normally and at full volume long after the chuff has stopped working.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I just had to repair the the wires coming into the tender because, all I could get was the hiss, whistle and bell. The power for that comes from the tender trucks. The chuff sensor is in the engine and the signal comes in from the engine through the 6 wire harness. What I don't understand is the chuff is on and then it is gone. Check the wiring harness for a loose wire(s). I cut the end of the wires and reset them in the plug. With resetting the wires in the plug the chuff came back.

Chuck


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## Thud_11 (Dec 18, 2013)

Okay, I've done some research and it seems like the wiring harness is the likely culprit (seems you and I aren't the only ones to have had this issue). I don't think cutting and resetting them will be an issue, but is there anywhere I can get an OEM replacement? I saw someone recommended Train Li, but it seems they don't have that particular cable at the moment. Thanks for the help Chuck, and I noticed your VA location--Rah Virginia Mil! (I miss being there, especially now that I'm stationed out here in middle-of-nowhere New Mexico) - Thud


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have several moguls and the weak link is the wiring harness between the engine and the tender.

Repeated plugging and UNPLUGGING the harness from the tender breaks the wires in the plug. I have replaced the wires in the plug many times. It is far easier than replacing the entire wiring assembly. You will need to unsolder the old wires on the board in the cab and then correctly solder in the six wires on the wire assembly. Believe me it is easier to trim the ends of the wire and re insert them in the plug.

Where in New Mexico? It's a great state. Love it out there.

Chuck

Ps I bought a replacement wiring harness 6 wire, from train-Li last spring. After getting it and looking at the mother board I decided to rewire the plug. It worked.

Pps while you are out there, look around for Navajo rugs with trains. I've found four. Leroy Yazzie makes some beautiful ones.
One has a 4-6-0 pulling two Silverton yellow and black passenger cars, plus two freight trains further up the rug.


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## Thud_11 (Dec 18, 2013)

I'll have to keep an eye out for one of those rugs. Sounds like another piece of train paraphernalia I could add to the "man cave." As you might have guessed, I'm slowly re-discovering my childhood love of trains (particularly G scale since my folks made the mistake of buying me a starter set in the early 1990s). Right now I'm in the Clovis/Portales area, in extreme Eastern NM (the only not-so pretty part of the state), but I'm lucky in that I often have to travel to and from El Paso and Alamogordo. Definitely a great place to just go for a long drive.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Never been to that part of the state. Northern and western are more familiar. Used to ski Taos. If you want to know the names of locals who might help locate a rug PM me and I'll send you some possible sources in Albuquerque and Gallup.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

At train-li I make the 6 pin cable for customers. I use a strong 6 wire molded cable.
We have the 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 pin connectors in stock as well as the molded wire.


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## blazersport (Apr 10, 2008)

Carefully open up the connector by pulling the black tabs open and then take a small flat head screw driver and gently pry the connector open. Trim the wire and then compress the connector back together in a vice to keep the pressure even when closing. If you needs the chuff sensor or sound board I have a working spare on hand.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

I feel strongly based off original post this is not a plug issue. A plug issue would be more intermittent. Its common to cut out on curves and come back on straights due to the forces of pulling on the wire in corners. Or not work at all. 

A slow fading of sound over time and then once left sit , it comes back seems like an electronic failure of the board. Likely old capacitors leaking or over heat once a few minutes go buy. 

I hope for the best with your sound issues and hope its not the case but just wanted you to be aware and not surprised. I have NOS boards but they are rat holed away for my stock. There are still some out there if you have a nostalgia for them like I do. Try fixing your old plug and doing some testing before buying new!

Kyle


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## Thud_11 (Dec 18, 2013)

All, I'm going to give the wire trim and crimp fix a try this weekend, if it doesn't work out I may be looking at a new Train-Li replacement or, blazersport, I might have to buy a board or sensor off of you. Thanks guys for all the input! I really appreciate it. - Thud


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