# CUTTING ANGLES ON BRASS



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have a supply of K&S brass stock ( I think that's who makes it) I want to make better hand rails and stantions for my engines. I have a lot of trouble with my railings and things breaking off or bening out of shape.

Any one got any suggestions for a small cut off saw? 

I plan on cutting some 45 degree angles and soldering the pieces together.


All suggestions welcomed


----------



## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a mini chop saw from Micro-mark.
Cut Off saw 

Harvey C.


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I just got one of these and did a bunch of brass it did all right .... not sure yet how long it will last 



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307


----------



## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

My Harbor Freight saw just keeps cutting brass like butter. Even found a 3 inch metal cut off wheel for it. 
N


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Isn't it sad that those two saws are virtually identical and the price difference is so dramatic? 

Chas


----------



## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

What kind of blades do these use? Abrasive or saw?


----------



## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob: 
Mine uses both, abrasive for metals and a saw blade for wood and plastics. 

Harvey C.


----------



## flats (Jun 30, 2008)

Ok Noel, where did you find the 3 inch metal cut off blade for the 
Harbor Freight cut off saw, I have been looking for one. 

Ken owner of K&K the road to nowhere


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Isn't it sad that those two saws are virtually identical and the price difference is so dramatic? 
They aren't - the cheap one is plastic and the expensive one is metal. I had one of the harbor freight saws and when the blade dulled, I couldn't find one to fit the arbor. It's about 1mm smaller than Micro-Mark's blades. Besides that, the blade would spin on the arbor - even the stock blade. No amount of tightening helped. Finally broke down and bought the Micro-Mark. I then fit a Micro-Mark abrasive wheel in the Harbor Freight and still use it occasionally, but prefer the Micro-Mark unit.


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Noel, ditto Ken's request, where did you find a 3" metal blade for the HF chop saw?


----------



## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jimtyp on 06/11/2009 4:51 PM
Noel, ditto Ken's request, where did you find a 3" metal blade for the HF chop saw?

I bought them at HF...but I searched, and they're not in their inventory now. I know they used to be. Also, the HF saw takes a 2" blade, not a 3".


----------



## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok Noel, where did you find the 3 inch metal cut off blade for the 
Harbor Freight cut off saw, I have been looking for one. 

Sorry for the typo. Mike is right. It is a 2 inch blade. 2inch, 2inch, 2inch...ok got it. Anyhow, I found the blades in the circular saw blade section at Harbor Freight. The 2 inch diamond cut off was mixed in with the regular saw blades for the mini cut off saw. I use the regular tooth blade also for cutting brass. Turn it on and give it a shot of WD-40 and also give the brass to be cut a shot. Cuts like butter. Be careful because if the cut off piece is small it may go flying. Go slow and take shallow cuts. 
I also found a 4 inch diamond blade for my Dremel at Harbor Freight. Part number 9315 with a 1/2 inch arbour. 
Noel


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

they show the blades for the HF cut off at the on line store ......


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42805-ovga&Submit=Go


I have used these on brass with little problem ...... the blade in mine is tight to the arbor no slip at all .... in fact it stalled cutting a thick brass part 


I also found a 3 inch thin fiber type cut off disc at HF with the right id .... it works well two for cutting steel axles and such but I did have to leave the gard off untill it was worn down smaller ( watch out for your face without the gard )


I also added a platform to the right of mine to make it a duplacutter ( a stop so it cuts the same length over and over )


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TUBESAW.html

Another version of the HF saw. Again more expensive. I got my father in law this saw (I never opened it to look at it though) a few years ago for Christmas on sale around $20! 

I didn't notice, Dwight, that the Micromark version is 3 inches vs. HF's 2". That makes a huge difference. Metal versus plastic does too.

Thanks!

Chas


----------



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

no I think they are both 2 inch


----------



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I think the blades are the same diameter Chas, but the HF has a smaller diameter arbor. I could have turned a new one I suppose to fit the MM blades, but there comes a point where I won't waste any more time on an inexpensive tool and opt to replace it with a better one (usually the one I should have purchased in the first place  ). However, that's just me, and not necessarily appropriate for anyone/everyone else.


----------



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I geuss my point was I find it VERY difficult to spend 2x or more on a tool for myself that I bought for someone else a few years ago at half price. Especially if it is essentially unchanged. 

Chas


----------



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Try putting a shim washer between the blade and the nut on the HF. And yes, rarely do they stock replacement blades. Try heat-shrinking a sleeve over the shaft to take up the slack. But really, unless the runout causes excessive vibration, does it matter? Look on the eccentric orbit as a warning that 'cutting time' is getting close, as you feed the material in.

Go to your table saw and put an adjustable square over the blade, then rotate the shaft by hand. Bet you'll be amazed at the amount of runout you get on a common 10" saw.









Les


----------

