# End of Track Alarm?



## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

This is a project I am just beginning.

I have a number of sidings with trains parked on them where the end of the siding is out of sight as I move trains into the sidings.

It happens that I have a surplus of LGB 17100 & 17000 Track Contacts for Automatic Uncouplers plus a quantity of 17050 Sound Magnets and a couple of 17010 Switching Magnets (which gave me the idea for this project).


















​My thought is to possibly mount the Sound Magnets (or other magnets) upside down on bottom of the caboose or whatever the last car is on a train to see if it can trigger the reed switch in the Track Contacts.

The idea would be for the magnet to trigger the Track Contact and close a circuit to a light or some sort of audible alarm (possibly wired to be seen or heard either near the end of track(s) or where I am running the trains.

I have not yet looked up how LGB planned for the Track Contacts to be wired and used. The diodes and capacitor make it a bit complicated for my plan to simply use them as a straight reed switch closing the circuit between a battery and lights or horn.

Also complicating things a bit is that the sidings at times will be used with both MTS and with analog track power.

Its not a major issue but since everything is still in unopened packaging I would prefer not to make permanent changes to the devices as they may become less readily available in the future. In my case I had no plans or need for them when I bought them - they were just "insurance" in case I might eventually need them (like now).

It looks like I may be able to use the Track Contacts to activate some features of the LGB Jumbo I was unaware of:

• When used to control an EPL drive, the center "input" terminal (Ä) of a 17100 Track Contact is usually connected to AC terminal "3" on an LGB power supply. One of the outer "control" terminals (D and Ñ) of a 17100 is connected to the orange terminal on the EPL drive. The white terminal on the EPL drive is connected to AC terminal "4" on an LGB power supply.

Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought it would make more sense to ask here to see if anyone has already built an End of Track Alarm for similar purposes.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have them, you could drive the LGB semaphore with the 17000.
Now you would have a light and a semaphore activated.
You would need 2 17000 sensors, one to set the semaphore when close to stopped, and another for when the train moves away from the siding, and this only needs to be 6 inches from the stopped sensor. Plus some semaphores had the add-on switch and this can drive a remote light.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> If you have them, you could drive the LGB semaphore with the 17000.
> Now you would have a light and a semaphore activated.
> You would need 2 17000 sensors, one to set the semaphore when close to stopped, and another for when the train moves away from the siding, and this only needs to be 6 inches from the stopped sensor. Plus some semaphores had the add-on switch and this can drive a remote light.


Hi Dan,

Nope. No Semaphore but you gave me an idea. I do have some unused Remote Uncouplers. I would like to avoid spending much money on this but since I have the Uncouplers I might put one of them near where I run the layout. That way its activation would be loud enough that I would hear it. 

I forget how the light works but I have the instructions and it might be possible to get the light to come on when a Track Contact is activated. 

The next trick will be to figure out how to find a magnet that can be attached to a wheel truck that is strong enough to activate the Track Contact.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

How about a simple switch to turn on and off a buzzer, with a second cutoff switch to turn off the buzzer or light.

http://www.frys.com/product/2314369?source=google&gclid=CPWz9oHCu8UCFUuTfgodXzwA3w

Here's a switch with along lever that can be used at the end of track, at any working height, such as coupler/body height.

Just connect the battery in series with this switch and the light or buzzer.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I have used magnets I removed from 'dead' computer hard drives.
These are very powerful and can trip the 17000 sensor from over 1/2 inch.
On a steam engine I mounted one under/behind the cow catcher.

Be careful on engines to not place a magnet near the motor, LGB magnets had a metal plate to keep the magnetism of each apart.

Computer hardware for mounting mother boards (standoffs) can be handy as there are different lengths and can be used on the botom of cars to mount magnets.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Jerry, I have used magnets I removed from 'dead' computer hard drives.
> These are very powerful and can trip the 17000 sensor from over 1/2 inch.
> On a steam engine I mounted one under/behind the cow catcher.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan,

Great Idea. I did not know about hard drive magnets.

It just happens that I have a stack of hard drives from computers I trashed years ago. I never throw the hard drives away because I don't want to risk someone digging them out of the trash.

Also, thanks for the warning about the motors.

Jerry


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Another word of caution, Jerry - while the vast majority of the platters inside of computer hard drives are metal some are glass. I have had such platters shatter into a host of sharp shards! Be very careful when removing parts to release the magnets!

dave


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

You could make one using a Flash light guts, a small microswitch mounted on a bumper about coupler height. When the coupler touches the micro switch the light will come on. 

JJ


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Guys,

My thanks to everyone for ALL the great ideas.

I just finished spending the last 5 DAYS (REALLY) talking with MS Support to FINALLY get the Windows 8 to 8.1 upgrade installed and working without crashing, locking up or error messages and reinstalling Office Professional 2010. I finally gave up trying to get Outlook 2010 to work right,

Getting back to this topic there are several things I am trying to build into the solution.

1. There are 12 long sidings with trains parked them ending with an LGB Lighted Track Bumper. 3 of them have two shorter trains parked on them but all 12 of the sidings are wired to enable me to remotely control power to the east and or west half of the siding. 

2. Switches mounted to the bumpers could work for trains ending at the bumper but would not work for trains ending in the middle of a siding.

3. I could possibly use switches mounted to the track bumpers for trains ending at the bumpers and use track contacts for trains ending in the middle of a siding.

4. I had previously used remote controlled cameras to monitor the sidings but for reasons I have forgotten that did not work out well enough. The cameras are still there but I have forgotten how they worked (getting old has some disadvantages).

5. Solutions would have to include how the alarm(s) would be powered, how it/they would be activated and also how it/they would be turned off. This could be by backing the train away from the bumper switch, turning siding power off, manual power switches or otherwise.

It will take some time for me to decide how to handle this but I do appreciate everyone's ideas and suggestions.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

dbodnar said:


> Another word of caution, Jerry - while the vast majority of the platters inside of computer hard drives are metal some are glass. I have had such platters shatter into a host of sharp shards! Be very careful when removing parts to release the magnets!
> 
> dave


Thanks for the warning Dave. I will be careful.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

JPCaputo said:


> How about a simple switch to turn on and off a buzzer, with a second cutoff switch to turn off the buzzer or light.
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/2314369?source=google&gclid=CPWz9oHCu8UCFUuTfgodXzwA3w
> 
> ...


 I like the idea of that micro switch on the truck bumper (thanks to JJ also). It might be challenging to figure out how to mount them to the bumpers (preferably removable without damage to the bumpers if possible)


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Jerry, I have used magnets I removed from 'dead' computer hard drives.
> These are very powerful and can trip the 17000 sensor from over 1/2 inch.


Hi Dan,

Fortunately I have probably got enough tower hard drives to get magnets from. They have been sitting on shelves waiting for me to figure what I can use them for.

The immediate problem is that it turned out that I don't have the right screwdrivers to fit the 6 point star screws or the other round (torx?) screws. I don't know where to look for them as I suspect Home Depot or Lowes would not be too likely to have them.

I have not checked but if they happen to be nonferrous I could probably grind them off.

Ideas on where I could find the drivers (local or online) and if so what I should be looking for? The hard drives seem to share the same two types of screws.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

A pack of neodymium magnets probably cost less than the torx driver and you don't have to go to the effort or danger of opening a bunch of drives and trying those magnets work for you.

Double sided tape sticks them to the trucks/frame. I use these to trip reed switches in lots of places.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

A small flat screwdriver ( green handle xcelite they are well made and good steel for a few dollars ) should work for the screws.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the small torx drivers. Before I got them, I did find a screwdriver would work esp if I used pliers to loosen the screws first.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Torx-Mini-Fold-Hex-Key-Set-8-Piece-HMFHKT8PCN/204153266


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Jerry I bought a nice set of those torx, star and other assorted specialty screw drivers at the local Harbor Freight Tools store. I got a large box of assorted ones, there were 100 magnetic bits, handle and extension, bought mine about 3 years or so ago and paid about $20 for that set, bought a few extras that weren't in the set and paid around $6.00 per 6 to 10 bit set. Think for all I got I paid less than $45 for the large set in carrying case and all the extra bits

Like said this was a few years back, so the prices may be a bit higher now. But it was the only store, Harbor Freight Tools where I could even find them. Lowes and Home Depot, neither had anything like them at the time. Don't know if they have them now, just know when I got mine they didn't carry any of the specialty screwdrivers at the time.


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## pfdx (Jan 2, 2008)

If your running DC you could use a 12010/12070 combination with a diode to stop the train and block further movement towards the end of track. you would need a second 17010 trip to reset the relay as the train left the spur.

Or use a insulated gap and a diode to stop the locomotive once it's past the clearance point.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

dbodnar said:


> Another word of caution, Jerry - while the vast majority of the platters inside of computer hard drives are metal some are glass. I have had such platters shatter into a host of sharp shards! Be very careful when removing parts to release the magnets!
> 
> dave


Hi Dave,

Thanks to your warning I was extra careful. I now have the magnets from 17 computers (16 towers and a laptop). The disks are now all exposed and my purpose for keeping them these years has been to be sure the data is destroyed and not retrievable. Not knowing which may be glass or metal, what would be the best way to destroy the disks? How can I tell if the platters are glass or metal?

My thought is to securely wrap the entire hard drives in clear shipping tape a couple of times and them (with the tape preventing shards flying) tap the disks enough to break or bend the disks so they could never be read again.

I would wonder if the same magnets could not be used to simply erase the disks?

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I meant to ask how the magnets are secured to the metal they are attached to? It might just be magnetism but it might be some sort of super adhesive and I don't want to ruin a small screwdriver etc. by trying to force them apart?

If it is too much trouble releasing the magnets I'll see if the brackets are non-ferrous and if so I guess I could cut the magnets free. 

Its easier to ask here than to ruin some tools.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

It is an adhesive that is very hard to break free. And the magnets are brittle and will chip and break of you take a whack at it trying to break it free. I have used a hacksaw to remove some of the metal on the ends of the magnet to reduce the overall size, but it has not been worth it to try to get the whole magnet free from the metal strip.

As to how secure your data is now that you have taken the drives apart...

Once you have removed the disk platters from the spindle you have pretty much destroyed the ability to access anything. They get formatted after they are placed on the spindle and even though tolerances are really tight, they do not fit perfectly and once you loosen them you will have a hard time getting them back in the EXACT same place and thus the tracks around the disk will "wobble" too much for the heads to track all the way around to read the data. Skin oils and dust and dirt also damage the surface such that the data is probably partially destroyed just by having exposed them to a non-dust-free atmosphere and in handling them. (I have cleaned them [in a level 10,000 clean room] enough to reformat a disk that has been removed and replaced... but note, I could not read what was there... I "Reformated" them to get the tracks concentric with the axis of rotation again and then they were usable as empty disks to put data on.)

You can guarantee the data is destroyed by rubbing the magnet over the surface and then further "enhance" that damage by scaring the surfaces with some sandpaper.

But it would take the entire forces of all the CSI TV shows, plus the NSA, CIA, MI-5 and the secret facility on Atlantis to get the disks remounted such as to read the data once you have disturbed the concentricity of the tracks with the axis of rotation, and I doubt if what is on your disks is really worth that effort.

I have not found any glass platters in the drives I have "ruined", I usually admire the mirror like surfaces and then use them as mini-"Frisbees" for a while and then a few have been used as super-sized "fender washers" on some silly project or other. They also make nice "shiny objects" to hang from tree limbs to scare away birds and deer.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

Back when hard drives and cassette tapes co-existed, we would permanently erase/ruin them by running the powerful electromagnet that's the bulk eraser over them and then giving them a good whack with a 5 pound mallet. 

What you have to keep in mind is that the time/benefit cost of recovering data on personal hard drives is completely unattractive. Weigh the chances that someone stored some important info on their hard drive, that the info is recoverable, and still usable, against the effort to get it out--and no one would bother. Far easier to rely on the ignorant falling for a phishing scam since sending 10 million messages through an open relay is trivial. 

If the hard drive was from a bank, or government agency, that's different.

That said, smashing them was always fun


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I appreciate everyone's comments on this topic.

I just found another hard drive so that will contribute a couple more magnets to the pile. I was surprised to discover that the little laptop hard drive magnets were almost as strong as the tower hard drive magnets and that one hard drive only had a single magnet (like the old single side 5 1/4" floppy drives?).

The security of the drives was not too big an issue other than some things like still having the same bank account and social security numbers. Beyond that the rest of the data would be of little interest or value to anyone.

What prompted my concern was a program on TV where experts surprised me at how data can be recovered by experts but then I don't think experts will sneak into Arkansas from Nigeria to steal my identity. 

More important to me would be the theft of a complete computer because of our recent experience of someone stealing my wife's credit card. Although a $300 tire was purchased with that credit card information we were not charged but there still was a hassle because I had all of our credit cards cancelled and reissued with new numbers. This meant having to wait for new cards and then use the new card numbers to auto pay Netflix, the electric bill, DirecTV etc. There is still the frustrating lack of knowing when, how and who stole her credit card information and the knowledge that they will probably get away with the stupid $300 tire. It really ticks me off.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Regarding the magnets, I found that the metal the magnets are bonded to is ferrous so I don't want to saw or grind it down as the metal shavings would probably be a PITA to get off of the magnets. I did discover that a 9" lineman's pliers can cut the metal as can twisting the metal back and forth except where it is too wide to cut or bent. 

I asked our son to bring a bolt cutter over as that should be perfect for cutting the magnets and bonded metal as small as practical without leaving any shavings.

Things are slowly moving forward. It just takes me a long time to get anything done anymore.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

riderdan said:


> Back when hard drives and cassette tapes co-existed, we would permanently erase/ruin them by running the powerful electromagnet that's the bulk eraser over them and then giving them a good whack with a 5 pound mallet.


I still have the old Radio Shack demagnetizer that I bought years ago to erase Commodore 64 cassettes and 3M 5 1/4" & 3 1/2" single sided and double sided discs (never had 8"). 160K, 320K, 720K floppies and 10 & 20 meg hard drives and 128K PC Jr bricks to get up to the Magic 640K memory and CGA, EGA and the fantastic VGA. Then the wonderful BBS's and meetings at the IBM branch office where we swapped info on Lotus 1-2-3. dBase III & IV and Word Perfect and learned a bit of how to program dBase and Basic. PC/MS DOS 2.1 & Windows 3.11; SubLogic Flight Simulator to test IBM compatibility of new computers - It must have been 100 years ago.

The funny thing is that I could do 99% of what I do now - just as fast but without the graphics. Apple had the graphics thing right other than the Amiga which I never had. It seems we don't have computers anymore - just graphic and photo storage devices.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

8 times out of 10 I can remove the magnets from the steel "bracket"... I first try to wedge it off with a flat blade screwdriver.

You can also put the bracket in a vise, clamping down on only the bracket and bend it "away" from the magnet.

I have a pile of them, and I decommission a lot of hard drives.

Greg


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Cataptrra said:


> Jerry I bought a nice set of those torx, star and other assorted specialty screw drivers at the local Harbor Freight Tools store.


I went to Harbor Freight and bought this:

http://t.harborfreight.com/3-pc-saemetrictorx-folding-hex-key-set-60822.html

Worked fine but some Torx screws were too small. I found I had the right small Torx but then on the last 2 drives it broke. I got a Dremel, cut slots in a few & I removed with a screwdriver then ground off the last heads with the Dremel (I didn't need to but I was not going to give up or buy anything). 

Eventually I'll get back to the project.

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

If I can get to the heads of a screw, then diagonal pliers will loosen the screw enough to allow just a small screw driver to 'spin out' the torx screw.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I got 7 hard drives from computers I had. I bought this adapter that adapts it to a USB cable. The kit comes with a power supply. What I did was format the Hard Drive. Then I back up all my stuff onto the hard drive. I have all my Vinyl records digitized and all my press notes and manuals all my pictures and all my Documents back up on three of these hard drives. 

What's this got to do with Bumper Signals?


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

John J said:


> I got 7 hard drives from computers I had. I bought this adapter that adapts it to a USB cable. The kit comes with a power supply. What I did was format the Hard Drive. Then I back up all my stuff onto the hard drive. I have all my Vinyl records digitized and all my press notes and manuals all my pictures and all my Documents back up on three of these hard drives.
> 
> What's this got to do with Bumper Signals?


Perhaps nothing to do with bumper signals but you touched on another subject of interest to me. 

I too used to store data on various hard drives - I just swapped the hard drives between tower computers (copying from C to D etc.) but then portable (USB) hard drives became so inexpensive and of such high capacity they obsoleted my need for all the hard drives.

I still have many reel to reel tapes and a tape deck that date back to 1962 - 1965 when I recorded all the records guys in my barracks had on 45 & LP records.

I would like to find an (inexpensive) way I could digitize all those reel to reel tapes and put them on Macs and from the Macs to iPhones iPods & iPads (via iTunes?). If using the Macs (minis & MacBook Pros) would not work, Windows 8 laptops or desktop or even Windows XP laptops & desktop are an option.

Since the tapes all predate cassette, 8 track, CD, DVD and Blue Ray they will all be analog but I do have equipment to record on CD, DVD and possibly Blue Ray. I just don't know how and what I would need to do it. There are probably enough 8 track tapes to play for at least a week at 24 hours per day.

After 50 years there is some bleed through on the tapes and some were not great recordings (45rpm) to begin with. It may not be practical or worth it but that was another time (USAF) and place (RAF Alconbury, England) so the tapes have a special value to me.

Since todays digital recordings have so much data about songs, singer etc. I don't see how those old analog tapes would have any similar capabilities.

Whether it is track alarms or recording reel to reel tapes they both represent things I would like to accomplish some day.

The interesting thing about MLS is the wide variety of talents of members qualified in so many different technologies.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I am getting close to starting on this project. I now have all the disks and magnets out of the hard drives and all of the magnets are separated from their mounts (33 magnets in 7 shapes). 

It turned out far easier than I had anticipated. The Vise grips I use to reattach joiners to LGB track;
a 9 inch Lineman's pliers; the right screwdriver, and it took less than a minute per magnet to break them free.

The vise grip fit over the angles of the brackets or the lineman's pliers broke or cut the angles off. 

In combination, they rolled the metal mounts out from under the leading edge of the magnets making it easy to slip a screwdriver in and flip it off.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-wrenches

Now I just have to figure how I am going to attach the magnets to the individual pieces of rolling stock to close the reed switches and activate the alarm.

I will probably wire the LGB track contacts in parallel using telephone wire with the 18 V power I use for my building lights. I haven't figured out exactly how to work around the two diodes In the track contacts but that should not be difficult. An 18 or 24 V light at the operators station should work fine to let me know when a train has reached the end of a siding. 

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

I just found an article related to this in the June 2015 (page 60) Garden Railways called "make some simple track contacts"

There is also an article on page 38* "Build an infrared train detector"* by Dave Bodnar


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Jerry McColgan said:


> It happens that I have a surplus of LGB 17100 & 17000 Track Contacts for Automatic Uncouplers
> 
> • When used to control an EPL drive, the center "input" terminal (Ä) of a 17100 Track Contact is usually connected to AC terminal "3" on an LGB power supply. One of the outer "control" terminals (D and Ñ) of a 17100 is connected to the orange terminal on the EPL drive. The white terminal on the EPL drive is connected to AC terminal "4" on an LGB power supply.


I am finally getting back to us and one of the things I quickly discovered is that the LGB 17100 and 17000 track contacts fit LGB track & ties well but do not fit AristoCraft or AML track or ties very well.

As it happens the track and ties I plan to use them with are LGB so this won't be a problem for me. For others plain reed switches should work just fine.

Jerry


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Jerry, if your Reel to Reel tape recorder/player has an earphone jack and you have software on your computer that can hear the audio input from a sound card, you just need a simple patch cable to connect the two, most computer audio recorders have an option where you can listen to the tape as it is being played and recorded.

It's actually a very simple process and one I've done with old 45RPM records, 33-1/3RPM records, Cassettes, 8 track tapes and even reel to reel recordings. Which the reel to reel recorder has now long bit the dust I had.

You just have to do it all manually, that is you've to start/start the recorder and the audio software on the computer. Then once you have the audio recorded to the software on the computer you can edit out any extensive silent parts at the beginning or end of the recording.

But it will take you a massive amount of time, depending on the number of tapes you want to re-record into your system, edit and enhance. BTW: Even though they are analog, they can still be saved as a "Stereo" recording, that's what I did with everything I had that was "analog" and "monorural"{single channel} instead of stereo.

I have even converted a lot of my old, now pretty much defunct, VHS tapes to DVD as well.

Been doing this for years! Just need the right hardware for VHS to DVD or BluRay conversion, and the right software/hardware for the audio conversions.

As long as you have those, you should be good to go.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Thanks for the info on recording. I will have to digest it and if you don't mind I might get back with you via PM

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Getting back to the End of Track Alarm, I have created a wiring code to build a 5 sidings, 2 trains per siding circuit using 4 conductor, 24 ga telephone wiring powering ten 18V 1447 lights.











In case anyone is wondering about my using telephone wire to power the 18 volt lights, 24 AWG wire is rated at 3.5 amps. The 18 volt 1447 lights take 0.15 amps. 

The maximum load the 24 gauge wire (3.5 amps) could handle up to 23 of the 1447 lights provided a power supply was putting out a minimum of 3.5 amps.

In this case I plan on ending with 21 lights in banks of 10, 8 and 3 BUT these will be momentary circuits (when a truck mounted magnet closes a reed switch).

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*Good source for reed switches?*

I am going to run out of LGB track magnets so I will need around a dozen inexpensive reed switches comparable with the ones Sierra, Phoenix or Dallee provided with their sound systems. I have some of those but not enough. Someone (probably Dallee) provided a plain glass enclosed reed switch that is probably less expensive and all I need.

The circuit will be momentarily powering individual 18 volt lights rated at 0.15 amps so the demand on the reed switches will not be high.

Does anyone have a favorite supplier of reed switches that they would recommend? (Dave or Dan)?

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Digi-key has flat and round units ans under $3

I really like the flat ones as they have 2 mounting holes. I user computer stand-off hardware on these sometimes.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/59025-010/59025-010-ND/36970 round
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MK04-1A66B-500W/374-1115-ND/388233 flat


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Digi-key has flat and round units ans under $3
> 
> I really like the flat ones as they have 2 mounting holes. I user computer stand-off hardware on these sometimes.
> 
> ...


 Hi Dan,

Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to find the right reed switches for me.

I have dealt with Digi-key in the past with good results but I don't know anything about reed switches or magnetism.

Initially I was going to order the flat ones but realized they would probably be a bit difficult to use over or under the ties so I placed an order with Digi-key for 10 of the round ones instead. If necessary, I can drill a round hole in the ends of the ties (small hole for the wires or wider for the switch) and slide the round reed switches (or their wires) through the holes.

With luck they will be here before I am ready to install them. Once again, thank you for your assistance.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

*More Sidings Added*

The Track Alarm Project is progressing.

I have decided to add 7 more sidings (4 double train sidings and 3 single train sidings).

















Jerry


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I would like to find an (inexpensive) way I could digitize all those reel to reel tapes and put them on Macs and from the Macs to iPhones iPods & iPads (via iTunes?). If using the Macs (minis & MacBook Pros) would not work, Windows 8 laptops or desktop or even Windows XP laptops & desktop are an option.


Jerry, 
Some years ago I converted all my vinyl, cassette and 8mm videos to digital on my computer. I did use a PC and I suspect the options are better for that process. The software cost maybe $50, and the special hardware was about $100 ($150 for video gear.)

As all the analog sources have to run to completion, I set up the rig (for whatever media) next to my desk/workbench and played the source in its entirety while recording it on my PC. I have an audio edit program - Rip/Edit/Burn (R/E/B) - which I highly recommend. With that, it doesn't matter if you let it produce an hour of blank hiss at the end - you just delete it. It took about 2 years to do all 125 LPs, but they are done. [Unfortunately I got better as I got more experienced, so the later recordings are better than the first!]

I only used R/E/B to process the files and create .MP3 files (which are now stored on an iPod and various SD cards that plug into our cars!) I had another program (RipVinyl) that handled the incoming audio, as it seemed easier to use and allowed me to be editing one file while recording another. Given how long each one took, I found that quite useful. I edited out the nastiest 'clicks' by reducing the volume on that few millisecond of the file - easy to do in R/E/B.

My desktop has a complete stereo audio input and a microphone port. I used Pinnacle Studio's video software for capturing the 8mm files, with their little A/V adaptor which feeds a USB port.

Computers are apparently notorious for producing 'hum' and after some investigation I bought a 'pre-amp' - which you may remember from the early audiophile days. It allowed me to control the input volume, but more important, it has a ground/earth selector (local or remote) which allowed it to eliminate the PC hum. It's a Gemini PA-7000.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Hi Pete,

I don't know if I am still up to this project. I hope so but it will probably be awhile before I can finish some current projects and get back to those reel to reel tapes.

Many thanks for your comments. I remember the pre-amp days but I was never much as an audiophile - just skirting around the edges. After all, I was just a lowly Airman Third Class making $68 bucks a month back when I recorded those tapes. We did get some great deals though by ordering direct from Japan, having stuff shipped to our APO address and arriving in the UK duty free through the US Mail System. I think the statute of limitations has expired by now. 

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Regarding the Track Alarm, I am still making further progress. 

I decided I wanted a testing circuit to confirm that all of the lights are individually working so I have assembled the Track Alarm Lights and Track Alarm Light Testing switches.









Nothing is wired yet other than getting the lights & switches pre-wired in preparation for connecting the telephone wires to connect with the power supply and the track reed switches.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Jerry, I have used magnets I removed from 'dead' computer hard drives.
> These are very powerful and can trip the 17000 sensor from over 1/2 inch.
> On a steam engine I mounted one under/behind the cow catcher.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan,

As usual, you are on the ball.

I did not recall reading or hearing anything about magnets being too close to LGB motors.

I happened to have an unopened 1701 and an unopened 17010 so I opened them and read the instructions (I had never thought I would have any need for these). 

The old 1701 instructions actually suggested gluing the magnet direct to the base of the drive unit without the metal plate.

The 17010 instructions said to mount it so the magnet was repelled by the loco magnet.

Then I read this:

Hints:
- On most locomotives with two gearboxes, mount the magnet on the first gearbox. However, on 22962, 2096S and similar locos, mount the magnet under the second gearbox.
- The motors of some LGB locos may trigger 17100 EPL Track Contacts, even without a 17010 Loco Magnet installed. To reduce this problem, install a piece of sheet steel at least 1 mm (3/64 in) thick under the gearbox to shield the motor.

in:

http://www.onlytrains.com/pdf/I17010.pdf

I have not yet tried to fit either the 1701 or the 17010 to any locos yet (been focused on putting a magnet on the caboose or coach end of the trains so far and have not installed the first reed switch or magnet yet.

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Note that the magnet bracket with clips is usually for the split motor block.


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Dan Pierce said:


> Note that the magnet bracket with clips is usually for the split motor block.


Thanks Dan,

Every day I've been waiting for the reed switches to arrive. I finally contacted Digi-Key only to find the order had never been entered. I probably did not complete the order because I did not have a credit card handy when I thought I had placed the order. For some reason (another iPad glitch?) One iPad had the order in the shopping cart but none of the other iPads nor Digi-Key could find anything in a shopping cart.

At least now the reed switches should finally get here.

Jerry


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## Jerry McColgan (Feb 8, 2008)

Sometimes we miss the obvious. I was running my night train this morning and decided I would probably put an LGB track magnet back on the track to see if the frequent bell and or whistle still annoyed me every time the train completed the loop.

It was then that I realized I could use track magnets with their activation of the bell and or whistle to notify me when a train reached the end of a siding.

All the trains parked on the sidings I was working with have LGB locos with sound. 

For now, I will try placing track magnets as a temporary alternative to the reed switches for activating an end of track alarm.

Jerry


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