# Opertunity Railroad progress report



## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Have a few posting here and there on this forum and thought might be nice to condense in one place. Being relatively new to garden railroading I am still making a lot of mistakes and willing to share my experience to other beginners.

(pre design)
In the beginning there were weeds. Lots of weeds. We moved into a new house in 2010 and it had a nice fenced in area beside the house. The only thing in the fence was a pine tree that had grown to large and lots of weeds. 



As any good husband would do, I waited a year (letting the weeds get bigger) telling my wife she could turn this space into whatever she wanted. After a year of looking at the weeds, she let me have the space for my own. I purchased a preformed pond liner and put in a few flower beds. The space looked good (will try to find a pic to post). That winter I built a indoor G scale railroad for my father. I had a O scale layout, 7' by 12' and thought G was WAY to large. New indoor layout was about 20' by 20' (some old posts are on this forum, will add a picture). It has HO to G scale trains all running in circles. In appreciation for building his layout my father gave me a Bachmann Big Hauler starter set (less track) he had purchased sometime back. He was saving it because he liked the colors (Santa Fe Super Chief set). After a few months of looking at this Super Chief set on the shelf in the garage, my mind started to wonder on having a G scale layout. At the same time my wife decided my O scale layout in the basement had to go for a playroom for the kids. Only place left for a layout was outdoors.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

(Design)

Once the treaty was signed on the boundaries of future garden layout were agreed upon (got to have the wife and kids on board) we were off. Kids really enjoyed the pond, so decided to add a second preformed pond liner and make a water fall between the two. Set up a bench to view the pond and trains and thing were looking ok, not great. Used a garden hose and "Any Rail 5" software to model my design. 

Sometime early on I decided I wanted the railway to cross my pond. I got enough track to circle my ponds, about 50'. Set up a temp layout for about a month and tried it out. 






This was ok, but great. Layout seamed to small and crowded by the large pine tree. Over the winter I made 100's (yes 100's) of designs on what I wanted to do. It soon became clear the pine tree had to go. With the wife's permission, removed the tree and things really opened up. 



(strayed from the plan)

In the middle of my design decided I wanted an up and over figure 8 layout. After a few tests at 3% grades realized this was not going to work (second loop was only 23'). Decided I wanted something simple and reliable. Adjusted my plan accordingly and hated it. Compromised with a flat figure 8 layout. A late night Ebay impulse purchased got me 2 turnouts. This lead to another handful of designs (actually another 100, I am an Engineer I always have tons of ideas). Came up with this.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Was going to dig a 3" trench for gravel. Decided this was to big of a pain and when with adding 3" of gravel for entire layout. Added 10" cedar boarder to define layout and hold in the gravel. Revised passing siding.



Finished the gravel and level the tracks





 
Added a bridge


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Very nice transformation, looks great!


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## mostlyharmless (Dec 11, 2013)

Very cool, it's interesting to see what people try, and what they end up with after trying some things that don't work out so well. Thanks so much for the updates.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Making little more headway. Issue of building a weather proof control panel. Can up with the idea of using a tool/fishbox. Working well except the where the handle is isn't water proof (have to store upside down).


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Control wiring is fairly simple with two control blocks at bridge and passing siding. Turnouts are wired in parallel to constant source 12 VDC thru a DPDT switch. All wiring from control panel terminated in common main Junction box.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Here are a couple of updated layout pictures. Wiring still going on. Running wiring 1/2" PVC conduit.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

I like your control panel box. Been thinking of something for my railroad, you have my gears turning now 

Thanks!


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Control box was very easy to construct. Just added a piece of 1/4 wood in the middle on legs and that was it. The space underneath allow for the wiring and the second (constant voltage) DC transformer. Had a extra conduit connector so used for hole penetration. Planning on upgrading to a 6 pin plug soon.


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Your are making good progress and your layout is looking good.


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## TippyRacer (Jan 17, 2014)

Tell us a little more about that bridge you made. It looks to be wood, but how was it built and supported?


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Bridge details.

My plan was to build a temporary open bridge and later construct a covered one. I had some left over cedar siding, think its 8" by 1" by various lengths. I used two piece of wood (one on top of the other) with spacing on alternate joints for the floor of bridge. Wood was attached with wood glue and drywall screws. I then traced out the track and cut the curve with my saber saw. Gave myself 3" on both sides of the sleepers for width of the bridge. 

During test fitting it was discovered on one side I did not have 2" of clearance from edge of pond. Had to remove bottom piece of wood (this would be the left side of the bridge) on this end. Added two 1" by 1" strips of wood on top of bridge to support floor. 

I was uncomfortable with a water crossing with no guards for bridge. I went to local home improvement store and purchased some cedar (plastic) ground edging material, 8" by 25'. I cut it in half with my table saw giving me a 4" guard. I then attached this guard to the side of bridge with drywall screws. Bridge came out well enough that will keep and not replace (building a covered bridge for alternate part of layout).

Thoughts/joys/disappointments/

1) Cost of this bridge was very minimal. Wood was free, edging was $7 on sale, think have less then $10 in bridge. Would be more if you have to purchase wood.

2) Realize why Prototypical bridges are straight. Much easier to construct. Wanted a curvy bridge, think extra effort was worth it.

3) Using a solid piece of wood for floor would probable be a stronger base. Due to curve, not sure you can get a piece of cedar this large. Suggest using treated plywood as an alternate if not wanting to use multiple cedar boards).

4) With supports at edges and middle of bridge, get a nice sound as metal wheeled rolling stock crosses bridge. Could add more supports to minimize effect, but I prefer more prototypically sound.

5) One main advantage of open bridge design is access to tracks for cleaning. If not building an open bridge, highly suggest making access to rails especially if going with a long bridge (removable top, hinged, etc). 


Would like to see picture of your bridges and hope these details help.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Quick update 8/24/14

Things on layout are going good. The loner LGB Stainz is a awesome engine. Runs well even on semi dirty tracks. Definitely going to have to get one. Best feature is it is heavy enough to correct my turnouts if switched incorrectly (without derailing), my Bachmann big hauler pilot wheels (4-6-0) would derail everytime if fact it derails sometimes when switch is in correct positon.

Purchased a couple used LGB passenger coaches (from starter set). They should arrived sometime this week. They have lights so interested in twilight operations. 

Flirting with the idea of changing my figure 8 mainline with passing siding to more of smaller loop around the ponds and a alternate larger loop (run basically where main line is now). Enjoy running multiple small trains and my crossing is very limited on options. Also my 16' passing siding it really just taking up to my space. Will try to post a pic of my possible redesign.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

This is what I am considering. What do you think? Will have to cut a few custom track pieces (all tracks will be connected, program shown with a few breaks due to custom pieces needed). 

Thinking this layout maybe easier to run multiple trains. Also have a little bit more variety in train routes.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Are you able to zoom in on that?

Did you mention how you're powering and controlling your trains?


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Lets try this



Layout is track powered, congenital control (low tech). Will have two isolated track sections right after turnout on right (one on bridge and other right above bridge, bridge shown in brown over ponds shown in blue). All track sections will be connected (drawing showing spaces as custom track will need to be cut). Thinking this layout will be easier to run/control two trains on layout.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Speaking here of my DCC HO experience (since in G I only have a starter set power supply at the moment):

I like being able to run multiple trains on multiple tracks, independently without concern for collisions. I also liked being able to set some trains running, then operate one or more manually driven train, which had to work around the "scheduled service."

***

What do you think about a double track line in the lower hemisphere under your ponds? That would give two independent tracks.

Are you interested in elevation change?


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

I was told by local large scale club to keep layout as level as possible. Grades kill engines. Was thinking of having a future second main line at higher elevation.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Update 9/11/14

Finally got a chance to revise layout to new plan yesterday. Improvements well worth it. Much more interesting running and watching trains now. Multiple trains on layout much better.

Interestingly I ended up using the exact amount of track in my original and revised plans. Even more amassing, I only have two, 1 foot sections of track as extra. With all my plan changes I find this incredible.

Will post some pictures of new design in action.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

update 9/29/14

Just thought I would jot down a few of my experience I learned this past month regarding the layout and such. Overall thing are going well. Been trying to run the trains before the weather turns. Revised layout much better, highly recommend.

Few things I learned

1) a fine gravel base is great to set up, but hard to maintain. Tracks shift very easily and have to adjust sleeper more then expected. Will be adding larger gravel to help hold things together.

2) If you have cats don't do a gravel layout. They will think it is a large litter box. Working on discouraging this behavior.

3) Event he smallest plant can derail trains. With fall coming leafs, etc are blowing on the tracks causing issues. 

4) Been lucky with track cleaning. Getting by only cleaning tracks weekly. 

5) Bachmann Little hauler's look cute, but will not self correct LGB turnouts (too light of engine). Also they struggle pulling more then three cars (this is on a level layout). 

6) Uneven tracks will uncouple LGB hook and loop couplers. This happens occasionally to me. Would not trust running trains unsupervised.

Will try to get some pics posted before the snow flies. Hope everyone is enjoying the fall.


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## mostlyharmless (Dec 11, 2013)

Thank you so much for the updates! I have a similar amount of room in my backyard and am really leaning in the direction of a folded 8 so that I can have as long of a 'mainline' as possible. Thanks for all of the ideas!  I love the bridge!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Gravel will always be a problem.
We need to use a broken or crushed rock, the sharp corners 'lock' it together.

Gravel has softer rounded edges and as you know is hard to work with. Vibrations down the track are like that ancient electric football game where pieces were vibrated down the field! It will settle and drop away.

Landscape yards are a source as well as quarries. It has different names by location... Crusher Fines should translate well.

John


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Regarding cars coming uncoupled, LGB cars come with a second coupler hook. Mount these on the front of your cars, so that two hooks are used to join each pair of cars.


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