# Rail Boss Plus Help Needed



## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

I just purchased a Rail Boss Plus Controller to use in one of my Bachmann engines as it will fit in the tender along with the 14.8V battery pack and the sound system. Before I purchaed it I asked if it could be used with a 75MHz Ground Frequency system that I already had. ( Futaba Skysport 4). I have been using this control system to operate a small Robot, so I know that it works. Now I want to use it with one of my trains. I wired it up like the instructions says. The Instructions talk about Binding the Controller and receiver together using the calabration proceedure.

I did as it said, turn on the Controller and watch the LED flash like a heartbeat. Then turn on the Transmitter while holding down the direction joystick until the LED flashed rapidly. Then I moved the Throtle stick up and down like it said and left it in the lower position and moved the direction joystick back down to end the calibration. At this time the LED is supposed to Stay on and not flash, but it goes back to the slow heartbeat flash rate.

I checked the servo reverse switches and the were set in the reverse setting, when I changed them to the Normal setting , the controller would not even try to calibrate, the LED would not change to the calibration mode, so I changed the reverse switches back to the reverse mode.

I have tried to calibrate it a number of times without any luck. I have check all the connections as well as the battery voltage at the input and the voltage where the receiver connects and all are correct.

So , Has anyone used the Rail Boss with a 75MHz FM TX/RX system and if so how did you get it to work. The Receiver is the FP-R127DF that I am using with the Skysport 4 Model T4VF.

I know a lot of you will say just buy a 2.4GHz system as the are more reliable, but the point is I have a number of Ground frequency systems that I want to put to use as they all work and I don't want to have to have more Transmitters than what I already have.

Here is a link to a tutorial I am working on so you can see how I have it set up, maybe you can see something I am missing. http://danstrains.webstarts.com/rai...0013004032

Any Help will be appericated.

Dan S.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

The problem is that the old AM and even FM Radios are very susceptible to both atmospheric interference and in line motor "noise" interference. They have never been very successful when buried inside locos. 

I know it goes against the grain but I am afraid I am one that says junk the older stuff and go with 2.4 Ghz.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Dan - Sorry to hear you are having problems. I would have preferred to hear about it directly, but I'll do what I can to help. Fact is, I have never tested the RailBoss Plus with an older 75MHZ system. I assumed it would work. I still think it will, but I need to check the software to see if there would be something preventing that. Most likely, the problem is just a combination of wiring and reversing switches. I will contact you offline with recomendations. If it turns out to be anything of interest, I will also report it here.


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Thanks Del: I got the System working. The Normal / Reverse servo switch was the culpret. After fiddling with them , I was able to configure then controller. I love how it works and allows me to use my sound modules I got from electronics 123 to add sound features to my locomotives without costing me an arm and leg. To do all 9 locomotoves would have cost me a fortune. Now I can do away with the trailing battery car and run trains like they are supposed to be. 

Tony: I know that I should move into the 21st century and go with 2.4 Ghz systems, but since I already have (6) 75Mhz Ground frequency systems that all work and all on different channels I want to put them to use and not sit on the shelf in the closet. Since no one in my area does radio control, I should not have any problems with using them. As far as them being suseptable to interference from the motor, I do see a problem with that as the motor is in the engine and far enough away from the receiver inside the tender, plus I have caps across the motor to reduce any interference. I will switch to 2.4Ghz systems when these 75Mhz system stop working, but that might be a long while. I would be more concerned with interference in the 2.4Ghz systems with all the products out on the market now that use that frequency and my radios using 75Mhz which is only assigned to Ground Operated R/C cars and boats. 

Thanks again guys for your help and input. 

I will be refining the tutorial on the installtion of the Rail Boss Plus system in the Bachmann Big hauler tender on my website in the next few weeks, in the mean time I think it is helpful enough for those interested in doing the same thing. http://danstrains.webstarts.com/rai...0013004032 

Dan Stuettgen 
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Opps sorry the link to the tutorial was not correct. here is the correct one. http://danstrains.webstarts.com/rail_boss_controller.html 

Dan Stuettgen 
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Del: Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I was able to get the controller working after reading your email. For some reason it would not configure with the Normal/Reverse switches set in the Normal positions, so I set them in the reverse setting and set the throttle joystick all the way to the top along with the trim tab. Then when I went into the configure mode with the LED blinking the heart beat, Instead of pulling the Forward / Reverse Joystick down, I pushed it up and then moved the throttle joystick back and forth like your instructions says. I did that three times and then moved the forward / reverse joystick back to the up position and the configuration took like it was supposed to. Only thing was that the Throttle and Direction joysticks were reversed, but it was working. Since it was working, I stopped the motor and the flipped the Normal/Reverse switches to the Normal position and now everything is working like it is supposed to. 

I love how small your controller is and that I can activate my sound modules with it. Everthing is so compact I can fit the 14.8V Li-Ion battery pack, R/C Receiver, Rail Boss Plus, Sound Module, Speaker and the Sound module Battery and Regulator board all inside the tender. No More trailing Car to house that Battery pack and Aristocraft receiver. 

Thanks for have such and product, now I can put my old R/C gear to work and not have it taking up space in the closet. You saved me a lot of time and money to get all my engines in operation. I can only imagine how much it would have cost me to get all 9 locomotives outfitted with the Aristocraft systems with sound capability. I am very tempted to take the two Aristocraft systems out of the boxcars and give them to my brother for his trains after I purchase a couple more of your Rail Boss Plus boards. I have not set any of the additional features yest, but I will play around with the station stop feature so I can have that working come next Xmas. It will be nice to just let the trains run by themselves in the front yard during the holidays and have it stop automatically blow the whistle and stop at the station. 

Awesome Product. I did a short tutorail on how I installed your Rail Boss Plus controller in the tender of a Bachmann Big Hauler and will expand on it in more detail in the next few weeks. check it out if you want to, its on my website. 
Thanks for your Help. 

Dan Stuettgen 

Colorado & Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Dan. 
I am sorry if I seemed a bit blunt. If the 75 MHz works for you, great. 
Once you have tested it on the railroad please let us know what sort of range you have and if the 75 Mhz R/C is reliable at the max range you need.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm glad we could get you going Dan. The RailBoss won't let you proceed with the start up until the proportional throttle is at minimum position. With the throttle normal/reverse switch in the wrong position, it was reading full throttle instead.

The hobby radios designed for aircraft use have several issues that we have to deal with: calibration of the proportional throttle, trim tabs on each channel that we don't need, and normal/reverse switches that we don't need. This often causes some initial confusion during installation, as no two radio systems seem to be alike. But once you get past that, the system is easy to use.

While our new 2.4GHZ Pocket RailBoss sacrifices the proportional throttle, it does eliminate the need for calibration, fussing with unnecessary switches, and turning the transmitter on/off to save batteries. Also, there is no time lag waiting for the transmitter to link up with the receiver every time you turn it on. The Pocket RailBoss keyfob transmitter is always ready to use. 

Of course we continue to sell and support the 2.4GHZ Hobby Radio RailBoss system. Proportional throttles are a pleasure to use!


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Del and Tony: I have the Rail Boss Plus unit installed in a Bachmann tender along with a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack I built along with the R/C receiver and sound system and it all fits with space to spare without having to remove the existing 3" speaker. The only modification I had to make to the tender was remove a few bits of plastic inside that held the 9V battery in place for the orignal sound system which I removed and replaced with a sound module I purchased from electronics123.com. I recorded a nice Whistle and bell sound onto the module and then wired it to the Rail Boss Plus sound outputs. This module is only 1 1/2" square and operates off 6 volts which is created using a LM7806 voltage regulator connected to a 9V battery. The Chuff sound is created using an Old Modeltronics chuff module for a HO scale locomotive and is powered off the Li-ion battery through a LM7809 Voltage regulator. 

The only modifictaions I did to the locomotive was remove the track whell wipers and wired a 6 wire connector to the engine to have connections for the Motor, the wipers for the chuff and to power the headlight. I removed the original bulb for the headlight and replaced it with a white LED and installed a White LED in roof hatch opening in the cab to light it up. I like the fact that the headlight and cab light stays on even when the engine is stopped and does not change brightness as i change speed. Now I need to figure out how to keep them on when I switch into reverse. 

Installation was very easy and only took about 30 minutes after making the mods to the tender. I will take some photos and try and post them so you can see how it all fits. As a preliminary test for range I sat the engine on the work bench on its side and walked 50 feet away and operated the transmitter controls. I could see the headlight go off and on when I change the direction. I could hear both the bell and whistle when I moved the joystick either direction and could hear the engine change speed as I move the joystick. The next step will be to do the test outside to see how far away I can get and still see the headlight go on and off and hear the whistle and bell. 

I am betting I can do it from 3 houses away which would be farther that I would ever be operating the train. 

Dan S. 
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Dan - If you want to keep the cab light all the time, simply connect it to terminal 11 of the RailBoss (LED current source +) and the other side to Terminal 2 (Battery negative, switched). If you are using lamps, use terminal 1 of the RailBoss (which is just the positive battery, switched).

As a test, I have literally operated trains from 3 houses away, out of sight. I crank up the sound pretty loud. I know I'm in control because I can trigger the sounds manually from the transmitter. And I know I can control speed based by timing the intervals between track magnet triggered sounds. Of course one could also engage a partner and use cell phones to know what's going on too. The point is, these 2.4GHZ Spektrum radios (and others) have range well beyond our needs.

As to your sound lash-up, you could eliminate the 9V battery by connecting your 6v regulator to either the main battery, or down stream from the 9v regulator.


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Del: I am working on a small board now that will have the 6V and 9V regaultors on it that will be connected to the power switch from the 14.8V Li-Ion battery to power the sound modules, I just didn't have time to do it before now. Thanks for the heads up in the Cab light soultion. I will work that into my next engine as this one has the cab light and the head light wired together inside the engine and then I would have to run two more wires from the tender to the engine, which means I would need an 8 wire connector lashup between the engine and tender. I will have to look around for some of those, but right now it works for me, besides the engine will be running in the forward direction most of the time. 

I will do the mods to the next engine when I buy another Rail Boss Plus next month or later this month. 

I will be testing the operating range outdoors today and let you know how far I get it to work. 

Dan S. 
Colorado and Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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