# Regner Lumberjack: what accessories do i need?



## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Getting close to ordering loco. What extras do i need?
1) steam oil

2) gas adaptors? Not sure what's-what on this page.
http://www.thetraindepartment.com/l...sories/gas-filler-adapters-and-filler-valves/

Goodall valve, pump bottle. What are quick disconnects for?
http://www.thetraindepartment.com/live-steam-parts-accessories/goodall-valves/

Thx.
Marty


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Use the butane cans (hairspray can size) made for portable camping stoves that are only a buck or so each in packs. I have a plastic adapter that push fits onto the can that has a short extension which just pushes into the locos fuel tank filler valve. 

The loco may come with some syringes and tube that are good for dispensing water and steam oil. You can suck the water out from the bottom of the displacement lubricator with a little one with tube when your run is finished too.

Andrew


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Replace the Regner gas filler valve with a Ronson gas valve. You will want the adaptor for the butane cans. If you order from the Train Department Jay will help you out just give him a call. Another must is the water top up system (This is basically the same as the Goodale valve) Get a spray bottle to fill the boiler up wen running.
Just make sure you get some butane, distilled water, steam oil and some oil for the moving parts like 3 in 1 oil. I think the Lumberjack is a good choice, you will be very happy with it.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Yes, I was wondering whether the Regner had the Ronson valve. I knew some were different.

Andrew


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

Call Jason at the Train Department and ask him that question and he will set you up. Get good stuff as you will be stuck with it for the future.

Dave


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty - would be best to call and I can explain much better on the phone.

Gas adapters depend on what fuel you will use as there are 2 different common types. Butane and Butane/Propane blend. I sell both but can only ship the blend by the case. Otherwise its at shows/meets. 

You would use a straight goodall bottle BUT you can add the disconnect to it so you don't have to hold the hose in the filler. Its more of a convince then a necessity. 

Oils, you will need steam oil and a lubricating oil.

The kit comes with all the tools needed, but a good set of Whia tools are nice to have long term. Also is a nice set of micro pliers,cutters and needlenose.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

We've been here before...
There are different options but Jason will set you right.

http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/27093-butane-adapter-2.html

Andrew


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## Gerald (Apr 8, 2013)

*Gasvalves*

Hi Marty!

Be careful when conversion to another gas filling

The large valve is by Regner. The Ronsonvalve, and finally the air valve
that is offered by some companies.
As you can see, the normal gas level (blue) in all systems are very different. In a gas tank should always be a safety cushion (yellow)
be available from ca 20%.


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## Gerald (Apr 8, 2013)

Depending on the gas used different pressures arise in the gas tank. 
Even strong sunshine, the Lumberjack is painted black, influenced the expansion of gas. 

Regards, Gerald


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Look what came in the mail today! But i promised myself no playing until i do my taxes......

Edit: I thought Lumberjack was 1:20.3 scale but can't find anything to confirm that. Does anyone know what scale it is?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

As a guess, Regner from Germany probably scaled the LumberJack to around 1:22.5 but not any particular prototype so it could be open to interpretation. Some people 're-scale' them with little modification for 1:13.7.

Doing your tax before trains? Strange priorities you have Skeeterweasel... Are you feeling well?

Andrew


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I always love unwrapping all those little ziplock bags! Lumberjack is a great kit to cut you building teeth on. It can also pull a boatload of rolling stock!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> What are quick disconnects for?


 Marty,

The Goodall valve is a quick-disconnect, but as it is a push-fit, it can disconnect more often than you might like! Jason has some german precision brass ones that don't disconnect until you want them to! Here's one on the water pipe from tender to boiler in my EBT #12.










You don't actually need any special water filler - the loco will hold enough water for 15-30 minutes running. You can let it cool down, dump the water from the lubricator and refill it with steam oil, refill the boiler and gas tank, and away you go again.

The only thing that got missed is the info that the butane is generally available in Korean/Asian grocery stores - they use it on portable stoves. You can usually buy it from a vendor like Jason at a show, but it can't be mailed.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Garratt said:


> Doing your tax before trains? Strange priorities you have Skeeterweasel... Are you feeling well?


 
Do you have one of those cuddly governments that treats tax law as a polite request?


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

I got a water refeed deal for LumberJack. It is from Regner. Looks like a generic thing for many locos. Copper tube is really long. Build instructions for loco mention it, have a small picture, but nothing specific.
Guessing tube needs to be bent and cut to length.
Tube roughly 3mm OD. 
Any tricks to bending tube? Just make bends big as possible, or do i need some kind of bender? Seen mention, for bending brass tube, to fill w/ water, freeze, then bend.
Please send me any pointer you have.
Marty


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Do you know if the tube is annealed?


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeterweazel said:


> I got a water refeed deal for LumberJack. It is from Regner. Looks like a generic thing for many locos. Copper tube is really long. Build instructions for loco mention it, have a small picture, but nothing specific.
> Guessing tube needs to be bent and cut to length.
> Tube roughly 3mm OD.
> Any tricks to bending tube? Just make bends big as possible, or do i need some kind of bender? Seen mention, for bending brass tube, to fill w/ water, freeze, then bend.
> ...


 
The copper tube will bend easily using your hands. Just cut it to the length you need and then bend it to fit. It has a lot of give but don't go to 90 degree bend that's about when it can kink on you unless your very carful. All three of my Regners use this system and Regner makes them. I like it and it works well.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx. guys. Able to bend some w/ my fingers.
Forgot to ask: what is preferred/acceptable way to cut copper tube? Cut-off wheel on a dremel OK?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

BigRedOne said:


> Do you have one of those cuddly governments that treats tax law as a polite request?


No they are just the usual F'wits in office, so we just ignore them as much as possible.

Andrew


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Really disappointed w/ my kit. One wheel not machined straight, having to open up holes to get bolts in, oil reservoir/valve crooked, gears not meshing fully, and i'm only 1/2 way done. Figured for the money it costs it would bolt together w/ one hand. Oh well. Is this common w/ steam locos? Am i just naive?


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I wouldnt say it can be done with one hand........ If you never put one together there will be a learning curve but once you get the kinks worked out you will know the engine well and any future issues you have will be easy to solve and fix. I had some issues with mine but all minor things that were easily fixed. 
You might have to play with the gears some. The motor mount plate just has to be moved forward or back for gear adjustment. Worst case add a small washer or two between the motor mount plate and motor to bring it up some. I had to do that on mine otherwise the gears would not touch. You might have an issue with the cylider rubbing on the motor mount plate. You just have to file some of the plate down where it rubs. The oild reservoir is held in place with the boiler band. Im assuming the valve itself is crooked, not sure what you mean by crooked......... The wheel could just be a defect, I would just replace it. Call Jay from the Train Department if that where you got it from. Overall its a fun kit once you become familar and runs great.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

I built one of the first LJ kits when they came out,
I only remember one problem which was self induced, I reversed the cylinder holder (part 23) and the loco would run great for a few feet and stop abruptly.
After a lot of head scratching I figured it out. Take your time, follow the instructions and it should just about fall together.
The biggest problem I have run into is allowing the flame to stay in the smokebox which will destroy the temper of the cylinder spring directly below it. You then have to disassemble half the loco to replace it. I am working toward a solution which I will show if it works. The Little Falls Sewage Works is suffering a sever blockage without its locomotive. ;-)
Best of luck,
Tom


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx guys. To me there should be no massaging parts to get them to work. But if that's the way it is i'll play along.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I just built mine as the kit described, after a short break-in period one of the smoothest running locomotives i have. And the more you run it the better it gets. ENJOY nick jr


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx Nick.
Re: refeeder: Picture in instructions shows it mounted on left side of boiler. Description, and what i think is the mounting hole, are on the right side. For those who have installed refeeder, where do you put it?

Thx.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

The refeeder (topup system goes in the cab. It depends what side the cab plate is put but you will see an extra holes to the right or left of the boiler. Once everything is together there should only be one visable hole in the cab. Then you can attach the copper pipe and banjo fitting either on the sight glass or one of the extra spots on the boiler. I personaly did it on the boiler.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Get kit together last nite after a lot of massaging. Go to local Asian store and get gas. It fires up and runs. Bitchen! Then gets hole in boiler....
The gods are against me. What going on in the world of tiddly winks these days?


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Skeeterweazel said:


> Then gets hole in boiler....


That's rather alarming!

Any more detail / specifics?


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

on bottom where "circle" is brazed(?) to vertical part of boiler.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Do you think you experienced a failure of the boiler, leading to escaping water or steam until there was zero pressure?

If so, and assuming the boiler was supplied complete, I'd hope the manufacturer would warranty that. Does you kit include a boiler certification?


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

definitely. Water all kicked out of hole.

Not sure on cert.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Do you have anyone local you can show it to?

Can you put a clip-art shape or draw on your photograph exactly where the leak was?


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

think leak was on bottom of verticle section, pointing toward the front of boiler.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Did you get any pressure on the gauge at all or did it start leaking water as it was heating up?
Are you sure it is from the boiler seam or is it just running down from one of the piping connections?
Can you put a little detergent around connections while under some pressure and look for bubbles?
The boilers should have been pressure tested when made.

Andrew


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

99% sure is hole. It ran for a few minutes. Was hoping it was a loose fitting. Took boiler and gas tank off frame and fired it up again, and can see where leaking from. Even leaks w/ no pressure, water weaps from hole. Paint probably hold pressure till it gave way.
Rats!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Go back to your dealer, or call if it was mail order.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Going by the quality of this Regner kit I think the best accessory may be a rubbish bin. 
I won't be buying one! The return shipping of faulty parts would sent me broke from where I live. Hope you sort it and get it running well Skeeterweasel.

Andrew


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Supposedly great little locos. Think my kit is the exception. Just have to wade through the problems......


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been in contact with but without any visable damage or defect on the boiler in any images I've asked that it be shipped to me to inspect and repair/replace per Regner's policy. As we all know not everything can be repaired from a computer screen.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Garratt said:


> Going by the quality of this Regner kit I think the best accessory may be a rubbish bin.
> I won't be buying one! The return shipping of faulty parts would sent me broke from where I live. Hope you sort it and get it running well Skeeterweasel.
> 
> Andrew


 
Andrew in the 30-40+ Regner kits and RTR engines Ive sold, none have had any issues like this one kit. I am unsure why but I assure you I will find out and correct the problem. 

As to warranty you are always responsible for shipping back to the dealer or manufacturer requardless of the final destination, that is why there is a rep on each continent but when people go outside of the country to save taxes and costs you have to bear the costs of shipping. This goes not just for Regner but for Aster and Accucraft and Roundhouse and anything I have ever dealt with in the past.

Go look at that Wuhu requires for warranty, what's the cost to send back to China as that is what they request for repairs. OR you can have the parts free and you can install yourself. That was what I was told when I was going to set up selling Wuhu 2 years ago and was not going to make customers have to accept that.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Can you see that the vertical part of the boiler and safety valve are not in line w/ the smoke stack and saddle support for the front part of the boiler? To me the horizontal part of boiler wan't notched correctly to mate w/ vertical part of boiler.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

And here is hole in bottom of boiler.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Regner obviously do not test their boilers before supplying them to dealers. 
Every live steam engine I have has a dated inspection certificate for the boiler test.
Regner need to lift their game in my books.

Andrew


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Didn't the original owner of Regner pass away last year?? Usually when a business is handed down the quality usually gets dumped in favor of profit. We have all seen that in other places, no?.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeterweazel said:


> And here is hole in bottom of boiler.
> http://youtu.be/3wsBqMHmnpc


Now THAT is not good!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeter, any news from the dealer or the manufacturer concerning your problems???? 
The quality must have really taken a dive, as the Lumberjack kit I purchased about 6 years ago was almost shake the box assembly. 
About 18 months ago I ordered and received a kit from the former dealer and his lack of response was not acceptable so I just returned it and disputed the charge on my CC, no problem. 
I do hope you receive full satisfaction, because once it is as it should be it is a fine running locomotive, so keep on them to supply what what you paid for, or receive a full refund and go elsewhere.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

No news, just in a holding pattern. Good things come to those who wait, right?

Pathetically, i put it back together last night so i could roll it down the tracks. I'm dying here......
Working on the "cruise control". Made hub for RPM "trigger wheel" today. Hopefully have wheel water jetted out this week. Work on mounting the infrared sensors and servo.


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## skypup (Apr 15, 2008)

Sorry to hear of your problems. Any luck getting them resolved? Here is the LumberJack I built last year.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Supposedly parts coming. Keeping my fingers crossed.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Skypup, and it only gets better as the cylinders wear in, enjoy.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

My Lumberjack took atleast 15 full runs to bed in the cylinders, gears and side rods. I am fortunate that at the time I built the kit, my late uncle was still alive and could speak and type fluent German, so I got a few tips from Herr Regner himself. Ditching the supplied gas valve for one from WeeBee loco works solved issues with it refueling. I also added the Regner whistle kit, along with water refeed, headlight and hitch bar(rooster bar) that I keep on the cab roof when not in use. I made the light operational as well. Still need to make up a nice wood load to stack in the back of the cab. It takes a bit to get the gas system adjusted as well, mainly to keep smokebox fires from happening. filled the tank and vented it to the air prior to assembly to flush any debris out, instead of into the jet. I only have had 2 jet pluggings in 2 gallons of water I have boiled in the Lumberjack. If you want to see pics of my whistle install and headlight, let me know. Cheers Mike


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Mike, I would like to see pix of your loco, and really like to hear your whistle


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I would also like to see and hear the whistle.
Be careful of the smoke box fires, if it gets hot enough the spring that holds the cylinders together can loose the tension and leak steam very badly.
Pics to encourage you to add the wood load.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Got email this a.m. from Regner. They now have all parts and are sending to me directly. Keeping fingers crossed......


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeter, I'm wishing ya the best, Got other body parts crossed also. When it is as it is as designed the wait will be more than worth it. 
I had another thought. There are boiler makers that are certainly capable of repairing yours right here in the US. Justin is very well known in his field and is also recommended by other manufacturers as a very capable person. 
Please keep us informed.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Rigged it up to run on air. In the 20 mins i messed w/ it it started to "loosen up" a bit. Running on 30# of air, noticeably faster on downhill but not dramatic. That's a good sign.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeter, I know you felt good watching it go, imagine the feeling of accomplishment when it is running by itself on steam, ENJOY


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

I had problems with the first engine I built and it was a big sense of relief to get it to run on air but it wasn't nearly as good as the feeling you get when you get steam to it.

Remember it will run better and better as it breaks in.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Glad to hear you are making progress.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Mounted servo last nite and made link to connect servo to throttle today. It's official: the cruise control works. Nice speed up or down the grade. At this point speed only adjustable by connecting to computer. If i slow it down by holding it the servo opens throttle more. When i let it go it's going too fast and servo closes throttle. Very pleased. Now can work on making it a little more "sano". Something to do while i'm waiting on parts.


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

Skeeterweasel,
I see your engine is running on steam, how was your boiler issue resolved?
Thanks
Steve


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve Ciambrone said:


> Skeeterweasel,
> I see your engine is running on steam, how was your boiler issue resolved?
> Thanks
> Steve


Regner supplied a new boiler as I expected them to, they will inspect the old one to see what happened when he sends it back.


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