# Photo etching?



## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Does anybody have any hands on experience with photo etching? I have seen various How To’s on YouTube and I understand the basic concept. There seems to be several methods of creating negatives and such. Ultimately I want to etch stainless steel to emulate air intake grilles. The grilles are about 15" long x 7/8" high.

Michael


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Micro-Mark offers a kit that contains everything you need, including inkjet printer transparency film, photoresist laminate sheets, laminator, photoresist developing solution, etchant, etching tank, and various tools (including gloves and a plastic apron). I got one of these kits last year, it was very easy to use and my very first etch was a complete success. 

According to the instructions, they found that a laser printer won't give you the opacity you need to make an effective negative, which is why they only offer the kit with inkjet film. I don't have an inkjet printer, so I bought a pack of laser printer transparency film from Staples and used my Alps printer (which uses a wax-based ink), and it worked great. Also, the instructions say you can expose the piece with 30 seconds in direct sunlight or 10 minutes under a 100 watt bulb, but I wasn't able to get a good exposure with the lightbulb. Sunlight is definitely the way to go. The photoresist will turn blue with exposure, that's how you can tell it's working. 

Here's the link to the kit on the Micro-Mark site: http://www.micromark.com/micro-mark-pro-etch-photo-etch-system,8346.html 

And here's a picture of a headlight bracket I made as my first photoetching project:


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

I should add, the Micro-Mark kit is limited to work pieces about 3"x3" (I think you can do longer pieces by putting them in the tank vertically, but not a whole lot longer), so you would have to do your 15" grilles in several sections.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Richard,

Thanks for the heads up on the MicroMark kit; it appears to be a great way to learn the basics.

Do you expose the pattern on both sides of the plate when making parts? I understand when etching you seal the back side with a “resist”, expose the top side with the “resist” leaving the desired pattern exposed to the chemical etch solution. When making parts you want to burn completely through the material, so it seemed likely you’d prepare the resist with a pattern on both sides of the plate.

Michael


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, you print the negatives for both sides, align the two negatives to each other, and stick them together with a bit of tape on the edges to form a sleeve. Then you insert your metal piece (with the photoresist applied on both sides) into the negative sleeve, and sandwich it between a couple pieces of plexiglass (provided with the kit) and clamp them together (clamps also provided). That keeps the negative flat against the metal for exposure. Take it out in the sun for 30 seconds, then flip it over to do the other side.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Great input Richard. Thanks. I want to give it a try. The plan is to make brass name plates for loco's. It sounds like it would work very well.

Thanks again, Bob


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

Richard: I have a project that I am working on which this might work for. What is the thickness of the brass that you can etch with the Micromark stuff. 

Dan S.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

They recommend .01" as the maximum thickness for best results, but according to the instructions the rollers in the laminator will accommodate up to .015".


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