# Aster/Accucraft BR 9F KIT



## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Recently received in Moscow my Aster/Accucraft BR 9F KIT, paid in January. Serial number *019/150*, maybe the only one in Russia. After reading southernsteamtrains, watching some videos, reading instructions decided to build the tender first. For the future sorry for my English.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Tender build was finished in 1.5 days (half of Saturday and whole Sunday). It was like an easy walk in the park  Although there was some fine file work. I never built Aster kits and not sure if it ok, but it is not fatal for me. There are some photos of process.

Tender pump at photos. All seams, threads and holes applied with packing compound. While fastening one brass screw was broken, but fortunately it was easy to remove broken part and it was a spare one. So be careful with it. Also I'm using low strength thread locker (purple).


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Fittings. I'm using epoxy resin on the back to secure it.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

There are some holes not aligned, fixed with file.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Axle-boxes, wheels, dummy leaf springs. I apply a dribble of light machine oil to axle-boxes. Holes of all 6 dummy leaf springs does not fit with threaded holes at frame, fixed slots with file. Also there was a little casting problem at one of dummy leaf spring.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Rear buffer, hook coupler. Most beautiful part! Final fittings, plates.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Finished tender. Water pump was tested, performance is ok, there are no leaks. Got a ton of fun! But tender looks lonely, plan to build loco soon. Stay tuned


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## Pauli (Jan 3, 2008)

Thank you for your ambitious documentation! look forward to following your build.

For piping, test blowing through with your mouth, to make sure no solder is blocking flow. (On the P8 / BR38 this occured on a few kits.)

The coupling springs are way to weak in my view. Replace with stronger, if they are to serve any mechanical dampening function.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

*Pauli*, thank you for advice. Yes, coupling spring is weak in my view too, I'll replace it in future.


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## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

LEAKS??? You mean like an _operational_, as in _real_, water pump? Is this a Live Steam model? Wow! Now _that's _some realism!


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice loco.you think you have it running when the soccer games are starting,might pay you a visit !
Manfred


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

*studeclunker*, sarcasm? 
*lotsasteam*, I'm not sure I can, I don't have much time, but I'll try. Also I don't have track, draft fan, test rollers yet


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## Pauli (Jan 3, 2008)

studeclunker

- your posting is incomprehensable. And probably unnessesary, even if explained.
Worst of all, it deterioates my enjoyment. Shame on you!

I think everybody understands what I'm writing.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking Tender. Thanks for the very well done documentation. Your English is fine, a whole lot better than my Russian. By the way, welcome to the crazy steamers.


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## Pauli (Jan 3, 2008)

bahbka,

Have you seen this extra building instruction, based on the first builds of the kit? It will also be updated, as people share their experiences. 

http://asterhobbies.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/BR-9F-Crib-Sheet.pdf (Where does the term "Crib sheet" come from???  )

I've used teflon tape instead of silicone for piping joints. 

Cylinder packings I just soaked in motor oil over night. Many have done so.

I replaced all valve steel balls with high temperature elastic ones, "Viton" or "Nitrile" They give 100% seal, and are lighter in weight = quicker more efficient operation.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/1257-rubber-valve-balls.html
If you use the steel balls, you have to check the valve seats.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Pauli said:


> studeclunker
> 
> - your posting is incomprehensable. And probably unnessesary, even if explained.
> Worst of all, it deterioates my enjoyment. Shame on you!
> ...


Pauli,
While I think his post was a bad attempt at humor, it wasn't clear (unless you are a live steam fan and recognize the model/manufacturer) what the model was. He'd only done the tender!

But wait - it was in the Live Steam forum . . . 



> Where does the term "Crib sheet" come from???


Well, I don't know the actual origin, but it is a commonly used term in the UK for making a copy of someone's work.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

*placitassteam*, thanks!



Pauli said:


> Have you seen this extra building instruction, based on the first builds of the kit? It will also be updated, as people share their experiences.


 Yes, I'm using this extremly useful "Crib sheet". Also I'm reading Dave Stick's articles.



Pauli said:


> I've used teflon tape instead of silicone for piping joints.


Good idea, I'll keep in mind.



Pauli said:


> Cylinder packings I just soaked in motor oil over night. Many have done so.


You soaked Cylinder Gaskets (like at attached photo) in motor oil? Do you use silicon compound after as recommended at assembly instruction? IMHO included high temperature compound seals better than motor oil.



Pauli said:


> I replaced all valve steel balls with high temperature elastic ones, "Viton" or "Nitrile" They give 100% seal, and are lighter in weight = quicker more efficient operation.
> If you use the steel balls, you have to check the valve seats.


I decided to use included steel balls for now (may be I will replace them in future), I did not make seat at tender pump unfortunately, but I'll make at axle pump definitely.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

bahbka said:


> *lotsasteam*, I'm not sure I can, I don't have much time, but I'll try. Also I don't have track, draft fan, test rollers yet



bahbka, you will have to factor in any time needed for the replacement parts to arrive. I'm still waiting for a third super heater for mine. You may have encouraged me to drag the tender out though and see if I can file enough of the chassis to get the spring and horn block castings to fit !!!!!.


As for the crib sheet, I could produce one that is about three times longer with the problems I have.


DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Start to build locomotive!
Building frame at glass plate. As recommended in "Crib sheet" I open some holes in frame for reverser shaft.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Again as recommended in "Crib sheet" actuation rod bent downwards (was upwards). As recommends Dave Stick, the thread under the operating levers is used for easy access if needed when boiler attached.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Building cylinders. I decided to use a very thin coat of packing compound on Cylinder Gaskets to seal cylinders covers (as recommended in manual). And again I broke one screw while fastening rear cover  But I couldn't simply unscrew it, had to drill and use taper tap to clean thread. I panicked first, but the result of this operation is good enough, like nothing happend (no photo unfortunately).


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

All slide bars and cross heads running surfaces was finished with emery paper


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Attaching weights to wheels and wheels to frame. It's looks like a locomotive!  Axle-boxes seats processed with fine file and emery for easy moving.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

And when I started to build Reverser Handle I found that some parts are missed  Already wrote a email to Accucraft, waiting for answer. But it seems it is not total blocker and I can continue build paritally.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

bahbka, did you try the reversing shaft with the bearings fitted ?. If not you may have to file more off the holes.


Do your wheels catch the axle boxes when they are moved fully over either way. I found the boss for the crank pins caught on the corners of the boxes on three axles. Need to file the corners of the boxes.


Temporary fit the weights to the frames and make sure the drain valve operating rod still moves freely.


DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

dougiel said:


> bahbka, did you try the reversing shaft with the bearings fitted ?. If not you may have to file more off the holes.


Yep, I tried, rotates freely.





dougiel said:


> Do your wheels catch the axle boxes when they are moved fully over either way. I found the boss for the crank pins caught on the corners of the boxes on three axles. Need to file the corners of the boxes.


Cranks are too close to axleboxes corners (see photo), but moves freely in any cases without caught (tried to shift frame to all sides and roll at rails).





dougiel said:


> Temporary fit the weights to the frames and make sure the drain valve operating rod still moves freely.


I'll try!


BTW, *dougiel*, how are your tender horns?


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Make sure you tilt the frames when looking at the clearance on the axle boxes and the crank pin bosses.



 not had any time for the tender bahbka. And not in the right frame of mind to tackle the job. Need to be relaxed and happy and at the moment I'm not. Would probably make a mess of it.

DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

dougiel said:


> Make sure you tilt the frames when looking at the clearance on the axle boxes and the crank pin bosses.


Tried to tilt and roll, looks ok.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

bahbka, have you checked the die block, item 4-5. Mine did not have the right radius on the inner and outer faces and looked to have been finished with a fartherless file so rough was it. I see that Aster UK have listed this as among some parts that have arrived from Accucraft to replace dodgy bits.


As my valve gear has been built for a month or more I am not in the mood to strip it all down again to replace. I would also have to replace the expansion links as they have been filed to fit.


DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

*dougiel*, I also have some problems with die blocks and expansion links, but can't decide if this is critical. Look at video below, please.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Long time no photos from me, but progress is big!
Axle pump, bypass valve. I decided to leave steel balls, making ball seats with light hammer.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Dummy brakes, dummy sander nozzles, dummy oil distributors.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Most hard stage, took too many time - assembling Walchaerts mechanism. I shortened die pins, because it stucks Link Pivots otherwise. As recommended at 'Crib List', I made countersinks at External Pivot. All parts cleaned with metal brush slightly. Also processing of forks and holes was needed.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Valve gear.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

While I was assembling Walchaerts mechanism, a package from Japan with missed parts came. Thanks *Aster* and *Accucraft* for support and real fast shipping! And now we are ready to air test!


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

I got a small compressor from a friend. And first air tests on video, I can watch it forever  While testing I found a little problem with return crank, it stucks main rod sometimes, because was mounted at angle. I fixed this easy. It seems die block is too loose at expansion link, but I can't understand how to fix, perhaps with making new die blocks manually. It seems I was a little overzealous with the hole expansion of Expansion Link Support at left side.





Download video - First Air Test





Download video - Drain Cocks


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

I understand that I need rolling tester, particularly for real running. I went to hardware store, bought some stuff, ordered bearings at China, spent some hours of work and voila! I spent not more than 5$ on it. But I'll replace bearing with bigger ones maybe. Thanks http://www.hmrg.co.uk/techtops/rolling.htm for idea.





Video - Home made roller tester


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

On this video you can see soapy water testing of cocks. There is some leakage, but I think it is not critical. It can disappear at real steam working, I think.





Download video - Soapy water at drain cocks


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Front wheels, lubricator.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Drain cocks (real and dummy), covers, dummy lubricators. Some work was needed for all parts. Also added washers at dummy lubricators as recommends David Stick.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Front buffers, plates, front decks. And again I found that one Lamp Iron was missed  Not critical, but a little unpleasant. I'll continue build and shall write *Aster/Accucraft* about it later, maybe something else will be missed.

With front deck, covers it looks beautiful! And already noticeably heavy


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

And final air test with covers. It's time to start the boiler assembly. I made optimal placement of patterns at ceramic sheet and now can fully insulate boiler with supplied ceramic sheet. You can print provided A4 sheet at 100% scale and use it for ceramic sheet cutting.





Download Video - Final air test

Thanks for putting up with my English, stay tuned


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful parts! You are coming along very nicely. Great job on the test stand.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

bahbka, good to see you are progressing well. New die blocks are available, Aster UK has a note on their web site. Not going to replace mine as it means stripping and re-building all the valve gear.

Tried to buff up my valve gear but the brass shows through with even light polishing.

Got my third superheater and found the pipe from the lubricator would not fit. I squashed the pipe trying to fit. Have replaced lubricator with an old one from Evening Star.

Winn, some parts are good but there are a lot of missing or bad ones. Definitely not up to usual Aster standard in my kit.

DougieL


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## Chris Turnbull (Jan 25, 2017)

This thread seems to have gone rather quiet of late so I assume everything is going well. I have just finished my 9F kit and have had two fine runs with it. On the last run I attached 13 coaches to the tender and it romped away with them. I was thrilled. However, the build wasn't without its problems (is any build problem free?) and I had to have three new parts although I cannot praise too highly the excellent service given by Andrew Pullen here in the UK. If anyone struggling with an aspect of the build then I would be pleased to help if I can.

Chris Turnbull


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Morning Chris,
yes it is quiet. My own kit has been pushed into the background due to the ongoing "problems" that keep appearing. I have a list of these that is about four times the size of the published "crib" sheet. In my opinion a kit of this cost should not require the amount of "hacking" to metal work and replacement parts that mine has required. Three superheaters and even then the last one required work to fit. The cost in required taps was quite high to tap holes that should have been done in the factory. I know of two others that have similar problems but it could be rogue kits. I have to say it has only got as far as it has due to the special service given by Andrew Pullen who has egged me on at times.

Will it ever get finished ?. Doubt it but you never know. I get depressed thinking of what further "problems" may arise.

Would I purchase from the same source again ?. I doubt it. It would have to be a very special model to tempt me.

DougieL


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## Chris Turnbull (Jan 25, 2017)

I had no trouble with the superheater but I did with the blower body, in particular getting a proper seal at the front end with the PS3-1.9 O-ring. Making the seal tight enough to pass a hydraulic test was a major challenge. In the end I did manage it but had to use lots of PTFE tape. It just goes to show that all kits are different.

The other problem I had with the blower was getting the nozzle set up as shown in the diagram on page 46. After a lot of attempts to bend the blower to the required shape I realised that the nozzle is formed from a length of brass rod drilled out to a small diameter and is impossible to bend. I cut off the brass, annealed the copper tube and nipped it around a piece of steel wire. That solved the problem.

It is worth persevering as the finished model is an excellent performer and if I can be of any assistance please let me know.

My 9F is now for sale as I understand that the next Aster model is a USRA Light Mikado which I would very much like but cannot afford both. I'm asking £5.000 if anyone is interested.

Chris Turnbull


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

dougiel, I and possibly others are very sorry to hear about your latest Aster experience as I was seriously considering one of the Mike's. Have you built other Asters? and if so how does this one compare? Thank You. LiG


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## Chris Turnbull (Jan 25, 2017)

My previous Aster build was the FEF3 and I would say the 9F is of similar difficulty (or ease depending on your viewpoint). With both kits some holes needed easing with a tap to either remove the paint or line the holes up a bit better but this is par for the course. At least all the holes were tapped in both my kits which, reading some of the reports on earlier Asters, hasn't always been the case. I understand from a friend of mine who built a Challenger kit that he had lots of problems in this respect.

Having said that I have not previously had to return parts due to poor workmanship but I had to return one of the steam chests part 5-5 (leaking air) the blower body part 11-6 (could not get it to seal) and one of the windshield frames part 17-10 (faulty casting). These were all replaced by Andrew Pullen very quickly and with no argument.

The 9F instructions could be better and the order is not always correct resulting in having to remove previously fixed parts but, on the whole, they are quite good and well up to the standard of the FEF3.

Overall I would say my 9F kit was as easy to build as the FEF3 but the quality of some of the parts left a bit to be desired although I could have got a rogue kit.

I'm now looking forward to the USRA Light Mikado which will go nicely with my FEF3 and Big Boy. All I want now is for Aster to reissue the Challenger...

Chris Turnbull


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> dougiel, I and possibly others are very sorry to hear about your latest Aster experience as I was seriously considering one of the Mike's. Have you built other Asters? and if so how does this one compare? Thank You. LiG



Nick, have also built a Castle, Rebuilt Merchant Navy, SNCF 140C, SBB E 3/3 and a School. Have a Thunderbolt still to do. This 9F kit is by a long way the worst for problems. If you believe some other builders they have not had the problems I have. This just brings out the wide range of quality you seem to get from Accucraft.


Have rebuilt several Aster models during my 5 years in G1. I have been involved with 16mm live steam since May 1977 when I bought the first of a large collection of RTR and kit models so have some knowledge of building and repairing live steam.


DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

My build was frozen at boiler assembly (stage 11) because of a lot of worries in life. I finally bought my own house with a large plot of land (not just for the garden railroad ). There is no finishing in the house and all my time is spent on it now, I want to move into house as soon as possible. But I plan to continue my 9F build soon (maybe today?)


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

bahbka,Chris & dougiel, thank you for your input. The closest I have come to building a live steamer is the Lumberjack, a very long time ago. I would seriously like to try a main line loco, in my case a high cost gamble, more to consider, thank you again. LiG


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## fredlub (Feb 7, 2010)

During the built of some 20 ASTER kits (in the last 40 years, I am getting old) I had only a few times in total to return to the supplier for problems and these were always handled in a good and pleasant way.
I have built the previous version of the ASTER Mikado in (USA) Southern Railway colors and I remember it as an easy build. The Mikado is a very good runner, so as long as Accucraft/ASTER do this loco as before no problems should arise:




Regards
Fred


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## Chris Turnbull (Jan 25, 2017)

Bahbka

If you are up to Stage 11 here is something you may wish to consider before you fix the boiler. 

Section 1 of the Crib Sheet warns you about ensuring the P-M2-2.5 set screws to the drain valve operating mechanism (Instructions sections 1.2.5 and 6) are tight as the boiler will have to be removed should they need tightening at a later stage. I did tighten them as much as I could but, sadly, they still worked loose after the first steaming. The problem is that you cannot get much torque on the Allen key that suits those tiny set screws. I finally decided to bite the bullet, remove the boiler and do the job properly. I used some +M2-2.5 screws that I had left over from the FEF3 build in lieu of the set screws but, having now completed the 9F, I find I have two +M2-2.5 screws and 20 +M2-4 screws left over so I see no reason why you cannot use these.

Of course, you could well be a better craftsman than me but I can assure you that removing the boiler is a pain.

Chris Turnbull


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Fred, thank you, that is an encouraging post, and nice rail. LiG


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Nick, don't forget the Mikado Fred built was manufactured, in all probability, in Japan. The new one is of sole Accucraft manufacture from China.

Presuming you are in the UK if you buy through Aster UK you will get superb back up with spares and help.

bahbka, good to hear you are still out there and still busy with the 9F if delayed by more important things.

DougieL


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

dougiel, thank you for reminding me of the change in manufacture. I have several Accucraft locomotives so know there can be oddities from one loco to the next. I guess I'll continue to be an observer a bit longer before taking the leap. LiG


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## LveStmr2 (Nov 28, 2014)

Bahbka,


Nice job.


I do not have this model but i think buying a kit vs. built up can prevent a horrid
of some sloppy factory assembled models. The assemblers are under a gun to produce too many models per day and they have no time to test or correct any mistake they've made, recognized or not and even not testing the entire model
even just once B4 shipping to their dealers/customers. So disturbing...


I think it's good that Accucraft learned from Aster, how to make a Kit-able design so that even the finished models can be taken apart easily by end users. Yes, the drawings and instruction text must be exact too.



I did wished you didn't need to 'align'
the clearance hole to the threaded holes. I really rather see makers not to use
brass screws but steel ones, stainless preferred or at least nickle plated brass/steel
or even rustible steel than the weak brass material. If their manufacturing process
is good, there shouldn't have been miss-alignments of the parts n holes. Yes, sheet
metal works are hard to be precise when bending is involved, unlike machining
a solid object. A casted part do shrink too if the part is not properly hollowed etc.



If a screw is holding two sheets with a nut, i suggest to solder that nut behind the
2nd sheet part. At times, it can be difficult to access the screw and/or nut for disassembly.



More suggestions:


1. Tender test:


a. Does the fuel valve shut tightly? A little leak is OK


b. Does the valve controls the fuel flow (0, medium, and full)?


c. Any leakage at the fuel connectors or along the fuel tube/pipe?


d. Same for water supply circuit as 1c above, including water pumping function


2. Engine - Do incremental testings:


a. Chassis being square on a surface plate (granite or thick glass plate) B4 instal-
ling wheels. Any twist can be adjusted by loosening/tightening the frame
fastening screws (hey, are the frames straight and parallel B4 construction?).
If too much warping, send the parts back! Some bent plates can be ping'ed
with a hammer between bricks.


b. Check both fuel and steam pipes for clear passage B4 installation and after.
Use butane can to blow out the pipes unless you have an air compressor.
the liquid gas is heavy and it can force out the debris well


c. Check the cylinder piston and piston valve operations individually. If they have
too much drag or or crooked, fix them


d. Air test again the motion with chassis completed (with cylinders, drivers, rods,
etc.) B4 installing the boiler. You may want to check the smoothness of the
drivers with side rods (coupling rods) installed alone B4 installing the main rods 

(connecting rods) to the cylinders


e. Do boiler leakage test, submerging it into a bucket full of water and pump
air to the operational pressure (or just above it. the boiler should of been
tested 2x the op. press.)


And so on, do incremental tests as you build. Then of course, when
these inc. tests
pass, you'll do the final integration test of the fully assembled model


Good building and hunting!



Regards,


няирод


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## Accucraft UK (Sep 16, 2013)

As ever Dougie, given that you regularly attend shows where we have a stand, do feel free to drop by and discuss any issues you might have, we'd love to meet you.

Graham.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Not sure why my name cropped up here. Last post from me was the 12/08/18. Last and only show I attended in the past two years was the G1MRA AGM at Godmanchester on the 14/10/17. Passed the Accucraft stand a couple of times but nothing of interest. Now a full time carer so no chance in the near future of any more shows.

My 9F kit has given me a lot of problems but has been finished. Last half was more of a throw it together as I lost interest. As the kit was purchased from Aster UK I used Andrews excellent service to complete it.


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## AsterUK (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dougie for your kind words. We do try hard to satisfy our customer if and when problems arise either in building an Aster kit or running a finished model. We hold good inventory of parts to support our UK customers. 

We published a Crib Sheet for the BR 9F and it can be accessed here at www.asterhobbies.co.uk


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

I finally moved into my new home, set up a little temporary workshop and ready to continue the assembly! And begin to plan the railway in the garden.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

great. Looking forward to reading more.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Bahbka, good to know you are back in business train wise. Like the look of the workspace, beats working on knee's like I usually do. Also the space outside the window.


My 9F has just been stripped to ease the corner on a couple of axle boxes. They were rubbing on the boss for the crankpins on the inside of the front drivers. I have also tried to sort the draincocks which meant removing the boiler. That centre front actuating arm and its little grub screw. Make sure your's are tight before fitting the boiler.


Now back together bar the smoke deflectors. Will fit after a test to prove all is steam tight.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Dougiel, good to see your progress (anyway better than my). But I thought yours 9F has pulling heavy trains already.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

bahbka said:


> Dougiel, good to see your progress (anyway better than my). But I thought yours 9F has pulling heavy trains already.


 
Bahbka, the 9F did pull several trains but on its first major outing on a large layout it developed several problems. The draincocks failed !. This appeared to cause the water being ejected into the smokebox on startup to put the fire out. Then it developed a distinct knock. This proved to be the boss for the crankpins on the leading driving wheels hitting the corners of the axleboxes. Hence the decision to strip it down and repair.


Hopefully it will now perform without further problems.


DougieL


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Well, let's continue 
Had cut out parts of ceramic paper for boiler and firebox insulation. Fully insulated boiler as recommended Dave Stick. Also had covered holes around the firebox to reduce the ingress of cold air.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Assembling boiler fittings (blower, regulator, pressure and water gauges, blow down valve). Had some troubles with bending blower pipe, it was a risk to kink it. Pressure gauge connection looks very weak, had added ptfe tape for now, may be rebuild it later if it will leak.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

It is boiler hydraulic test time. Mounted safety valves and other nuts. Temporary connected tender pump. Making 4 bar with pump. There are no leakage except unregulated safety valves and temporary tender connection. Looks good  No video but there was nothing interesting. Stay tuned.


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Nice to see your kit is advancing. My completed loco has had a minor test run and everything appears to be performing as it should now.

Dougie L


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Boiler casing. Mount side steps, dummy regulator level, handrail stanchions, etc. One of the boiler ring holes was at wrong place (as mentioned at crib list) - fixed with drilling and tapping.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Continue to build boiler and smoke box. Installing superheater, blower.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Mounting boiler. It was too hard to bend water pipe. At the chimney you can see exhaust and blower. It was needed to file holes of safety valves cover.


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## Taperpin (Jan 6, 2008)

Ex the factories, Accucraft and Aster. piping is not annealed and is very hard,


to anneal and soften the copper piping, heat with small torch to red glow allow to cool in air and then water, polish to complete.


You will find it can then be manipulated carefully and is soft to bend for fitting.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Taperpin, thank you for advise! Also I have read about it at southernsteamtrains.com, but I have decided to bend without annealing. On my next build I'll do this procedure surely.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Building cabin. Nothing special to write. Fastening of front glasses is very weak, I'll use glue when glasses will fell out. As I wrote year ago, I have redrawn templates to print them in scale 1:1. Now I using it to bend wire.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Smoke box door, a sign, smoke deflectors. Missing the parts again  for this time the front steps... I hope Aster/Accucraft haven't forgot me and will send me the missing parts... Dummy reach rod, again the holes mismatch, again using file to fix it  Mounting other "decorative" elements of the boiler (ejector, manifold, control valve).


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Burner, 25 wicks at every tube.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Wheathering copper. After brushing with a metal brush I have placed parts to the closed container with ammonia for several hours. Very good result!


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Aaaaand, meet! *British Railways Standard Class BR 9F 92059*! Amazing! Spaceship!


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## Taperpin (Jan 6, 2008)

Well Done ! and the motion work looks lovely.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

I don't have a suction fan yet, but I plan to build my own. For now I'm using J-tube with 8 liters garden spray bottle, works very good! As steam oil I'm using our Ц-38 oil. This oil is used at big steam trains. I'm using bioethanol as fuel, works very good and does not smell.


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## bahbka (Dec 11, 2017)

Here is *a video of first and second launches*! As warned by many people drain cocks has failed. I checked many time, it was all really tightened down. Not a big problem, I'll fix it next weekend.


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## Chris Turnbull (Jan 25, 2017)

After similar problems with my drain cocks I replaced the 2mm grub screws with some spare crosshead M2-2.5 screws. I have had no trouble since. If you have not got any spare 2.5 crossheads then 4mm will do just as well.

Chris Turnbull


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## dougiel (Jun 3, 2008)

Good to see it running Bahbka. Pity about the draincocks though. A common fault. Mine would spit so much water up the chimney on restart without them it put the fire out !. Have also started to use Bio Ethanol as supplies of methylated spirit here in the UK have not been of a very good grade lately.

DougieL


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