# Elevated Track



## mainerich (Feb 2, 2010)

A new old thread!!!

I have about 200' of elevated track along the back fence. I used the ladderbed method for this.

I do not like how it weathered over the winter, as the tracks are no longer parallel and it looks like a rollercoaster ride.

OK, not that bad, but, I don't like it.

I am going to rip it out this weekend and I want to build a new elevated roadbed.

I am thinking of sinking 4" pressure treated into the ground about 4' and having the track about 3' off the ground.

A few questions for the list:

How far apart should I have the posts?

Should I run stringers between each post? 

I want to cut decking and use that as the road bed. Is that the best for this? Or should I use something else?

Also, how wide should I make the decking? I'd like 3 tracks in this area. 

This area is behind arborvitae and a few other shrubs. so it doesn't need to look great.

Thanks for your help!!

Rich


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I think your post spacing should be a function of the length and rigidity of the primary horizontal beams. For instance, if you used a 2" x 4" on each side of the posts, you'd have more sag in the middle than if you used 2" x 6" or 2" x 8". However, the smaller lumber is less expensive. Personally, I would calculate the cost of a couple of different options, and also consider how much help I had (one person trying to hold and attach a 2" x 8" x 12' would probably need some type of a support temporarily.)

Another concern for spacing is how tight your curves are. As the curves get tighter or spacing greater, you're laying a circle over line, and thus your roadbed won't always be centrally supported (same way a long piece of rolling stock hangs off a tight curve.)

By the way, Lowes sells metal post feet, meant to hold a 4" x 4" for mounting a mailbox. Much easier to push into the ground than the lumber.

Deck boards do seem to be the most popular for a live steam roadbed surface, I think.

Width depends on your track spacing, and how close you're willing to get from the edge. I'd say minimum of 24" for three tracks, though I'd probably make it 30" or so - actual would be what resulted from equally dividing the lumber, so there's no waste.

Seven inch centerline spacing is probably okay for 1:32 or LGB type equipment, but eight or nine safer. Depends on your curves and how long your rolling stock is. Though, more generous spacing impacts the ease of reaching the outermost track.


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## hunteman (Dec 27, 2007)

I have about 220' elevated using 4x4 posts on 4' centers. Re: the posts - Use a good saw to cut the tops of the posts across the post. The average contractor 7" saw will make it difficult to get a smooth and accurate cut across the post. Also, the posts will need some kind of treatment on the upright ends to prevent water penetration. A local contractor suggested that whatever is mounted to the posts not be placed directly on the post. I used treated 2x4s on each side of the post to elevate the road bed slightly above each post to allow for air/drying. I used treated 2x6 boards as the road bed and didn't use any stringers between the posts. I would not use the 2x6 approach again. I have noticed a slight sagging of each of the 2x6. Since I model old narrow gauge and logging RRs slightly bumpy track is bad. I will probably replace the 2x6s next year.

All of the treated wood will need painting or some form of protection. I live in western North Carolina and my road bed 2x6 began to significantly check after about one year without any paint. My guess is because the boards are flat the water tends to stay on the boards the damage is accelerated.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Boards also dry out more on the exposed upper surface...while the lower surface is in the ..shade!
As such the top surface shrinks at a rate greater than the lower one, causing a cupped surface on top which can also hold water...

Many seen to be using some form of trex decking for the roadbed ..laying track directly on the top.

As long as good finishes are used...stains or paint .. I'm not always in favor of treated lumber as it is so wrapped to begin with. ..at the store.
I'm more in favor of picking good pieces and painting, as compared to treated lumber..esp.if all is above ground.

Dirk


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I was going to post a few pics of my track under construction, which were stored in my first class web space... but ... it gone? I guess there will be no reason to renew the 1st class.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jeffrunge/


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Red,


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich, the decking in the photo posted is 24" wide. It is composite decking which is now about 9 years old and holding up well.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff,
What kind of block is the tan colored one? I see the others are the concrete ones that hold 4x4's.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, they were on the property when I moved here. I think they are intended for a retaining wall (very heavy)


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Look here - Concrete retaining wall images. I've done a few of these types of walls, the blocks were lighter when I was younger and heavier as I got older.


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## mainerich (Feb 2, 2010)

Just a quick update.

I spoke with the local lumber yard about what I was planning to do. At first they were incredulous and had no idea what i was talking about. They ended up visiting the house and are now up to speed.

They suggested 4x4 pressure treated sunk into the ground 4' with gravel on the bottom for drainage. The posts will be 4' from each other and in a few places the posts will be about 2' parallel to the original posts, spaced 4' apart. This to give us more deck to use. Buildings, another track.

I just started digging the post holes, a pain in the butt!!! Renting a power auger is out of the question, as the handles won't fit between the fence and the hole.

I will keep you updated.


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Here is pic of my section of elevated track. It is just to go out around a pine tree. I used the 1 by 2 PVC strips from Lowes and glued them together with PVC glue. I cut small spacers, double them up and glued between to get spacing right for track and spikes. Thus there is a outer and inner rail with double spacers every 16 inch and that make perfect spacing for a 1 inch PVC pipe down about every 24 inches. I cut an angle on the bottom of the PVC spikes and drove them down as far as I could. Most are only 3-4 inches but we are in rock soil. After leveling, I cut them flush with the top of the PVC rail. I then added a drywall screw thru from each side to help make sure the glue didn't separate. Then painted it all brown to blend in more like wood. then screwed the track down to the spaces every 3 feet or so to keep it centered on the rails. I thought about adding trestle like parts below but after seeing the grass grow up under it and how easy it was the weed whack, I decided to just leave as it is. The hot wire keeps the cows and horse away. Its not even hot now but they see it and back off. So far so good.

Well it won't let me cut and paste pics like I used to be able to do.....I guess the new site changes when taken over.....


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Found this was using attachment but not as nice as when was just pasted into the text so you could see it.


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## mainerich (Feb 2, 2010)

Mickey,

Previously, I used that method in this area.

I didn't like the roller coaster look of the two independent tracks. 

It will be much wider, so that I can have a passing and also place some buildings.

The good thing with this track is that it is hidden from plain view in most areas, as there are shrubs and planting beds in front.

I will be digging 14 holes at least 3' deep this weekend!! If anyone is around?!?!?!?!?


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