# Adding Ball Bearings to AMS cars - not BB wheels - how to?



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I recall some folks that put some ball bearings, not BB wheels, on their AMS rolling stock. I looked in the archives but couldn't find the article. Anyone have any info on this? 

I know there are some folks that provide this service, like Phils Narrow Gauge, but thought I'd like to try it myself since I now have a lathe.


----------



## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim,

Just let Phil do it. No muss-No fuss. You can't beat his price AND service. I'm a happy customer. He is close to you in Peyton, CO.


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I gotta go with Gary on this one. I have a friend that makes his own BB wheel sets but he has a machine shop and even then he had a steep learning curve before he produced a set that he was satisfied with. Trust me, it's not worth the hassle! Do yourself a big favor and let someone who has perfected the process do it!


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Gary & Steve, I have used Phil before and he did great work and I would recommend him also. It's just I'd like to do it myself this time, it's not a matter of cost. I got this new Lathe and would like to have some fun with it  

I think I need to grind the ends of the wheels down from 4mm to 3mm, if I recall correctly. Then I'd have to increase the size of the holes in the side frames. I'm not sure what size Ball Bearings though. It appears the smallest I could get would be 3mm x 6mm. Then I'm not sure if I need flanges or not. And not sure how wide they should be.


----------



## old john (Dec 29, 2008)

I have put bearings on Accucraft wheels/trucks ( about 60 cars), it's not for the feint of heart, you need at least a lathe and drill press, you can't do it with a hand drill and files. You have to disassemble the truck down to side frames and bolster. Iin the back of each journal box is a bronze bushings that the axels ride in, the bushings are pressed in, they have to be removed, as the bearings will sit in there. You can drill them out with your drill press but before doing the drilling, remove the plastic journal box lid from the front of the side frames, they pop off with an Xacto knife. CAUTION drill only as deep as the bushing, you do not want to drill completely through. In most instances as you drill the bushing will pull out before you completely drill it out. This completes the work on the side frames. 

The bearings are 1/4" od, 1/8" id, and 3/16" deep , they are dental handpiece bearings requiring no lubrication. 

The wheels and axels : Use your drill press to press each wheel from the axel. Inside each wheel is a plastic tube to act as an electrical insulator, leave that in place. If it should come out during the wheel removal it is easily pushed back into the wheel. In examining the axel you will see that it is stepped, with a shoulderr for the wheel with insulator and an axel end that rides in the side frame bushing. Chuck the axel in your latthe and turn the axel end to 1/8" diameter, NOT THE WHEEL SEAT. 
Again, use your drill as a bearing presss and press each wheel/insulator onto it's stepped position on the axel. 

Reassemble the truck by placing the bearing on the turned bearing seat you you have made on each axel end, insert tthe bearings and axels into the side frames and replace the 2mm screws holding the side frames to the bolster. Using super glue replace the journal lids. 

Now, if after all this, you would still like to try a car, Email me and I'll send you some bearings.


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

John, this is great info! Thank you! I'm going to digest it and see if I'm up for this  I think I'd like to give it a go. Where do you get your BBs?


----------



## linuxhost (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi
Bronson-Tate also sells a Ballbearing retro kit for not only the AMS (plastic) freight cars but also their (plastic) passenger cars.
There is no machining required to install the bearings and custom made Serria Valley wheels sets.

Here is the link for the freight cars:
http://www.bronson-tate.com/parts/accucraft.shtml

Doug


----------



## old john (Dec 29, 2008)

Check your local phone book for companies that repair dental handpieces, call and ask them for their old bearings, they usually throw them out, so you can pick them up for free. The bearings are perfect for model trains, but they won't come up to speed (300,000 rpm) in dental handpieces, so they are replaced, but still have life for model trains, planes, slot racers, etc.


----------



## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

Its actually very easy, did a couple more yesterday in our work session. 

The trick is to remove the brass inserts in the sideframes. Once removed an Aristocraft ball bearing is a drop fit. 

To remove the brass insert I use a tap. As you turn the tap onto the brass insert it grabes the insert and you can then pull it out. 

Once out you need to grind off sideframes flush so that the you have side to side room for the ball beerings. 

Stan Ames


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Can you post some Pictures so we can see how you dood it.?


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan, 

Thanks for the info. 
Do you have a link to the Aristocraft ball bearings you use? Are they the Aristo-Craft 29411 Ball Bearings? What are the outside and inside dimensions? 
Do you need to grind down the axles at all?


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, doing some more research on Aristro-Craft 29411 ball bearings dug a gem. Check out the post dated "31 Oct 2008 02:47 PM" by Lynn Rice, from right here on MLS: 
 AMS & Aristo-craft 29411 ball bearings


----------



## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

JJ, Jim 

I have another car to do later this week so I will take some photos. 

The cars I am doing this on have the older Accucraft wheels which do not work particularely well on my stainless steel track (more rounded top) supported by gravel (not perfectely level). so I replace the wheels. Most other wheels in the market have 1/8" axles which fit perfectely in the Aristocraft ball bearing inserts. I have a ton of Accucraft wheels should anyone be interested. 

With the freight cars you have to remove the brass inserts which takes some effort. With the passenger cars the inserts just slide out. 

Stan


----------

