# Aristo-Craft Switch cheap versus Piko switch expensive



## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

This is my choice today , tomorrow the Aristo-Craft will be sold and I will not have the choice. Both are new, both 5 ft radius, both adequate for my purpose.
Aristo-Craft products seem very good in general, my mallet is Aristo-Craft, I must have 2 switches which is a considerable expense.
According to Greg Elmassian: The Aristo-Craft before 1990 has a number of defects that often lead to derailment . These can be fixed. Derailment of a mallet from 12 ft 6" is an accident I can not risk. The Piko is as good as the LGB, has no known defects and includes a short rail which is necessary. The Aristo-Craft does not include the necessary short rail. 
This is sufficient to decide in favour of the considerably more expensive Piko switch which is probably what I will do. But I would like to be completely sure, which I am not , before I decide today.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Good luck with your decision.
You have all the facts.
A friend ran his mallet through my Aristo switches without ail. Switches were straight outa the box. No mods. Bought way after 1990 closer to 2010.
John


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

The Aristo switch is not 5ft radius. the box says 10ft circle, but in reality it is a 4ft radius or 8ft circle.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I have both the 10, err 8 foot dia Aristo Craft switches and the 10 ft dia Piko switches. The frogs on the Aristo switches caused some cars and engines to jump as they went through the switch as the wheel flanges were hitting the frogs. My die grinder fixed the problem by elongating the ramp where the wheel came on the frog. A month ago, Jerry came to the house and wanted to run trains. So, we set up a layout with one of the Aristo Craft switches in a curve. With his live steam shay traversing through the switch, it would climb the outside rail where the sliding rail met the main rail. We replaced the Aristo with one of the Pikos and the problem was solved. I do have to say this was the first time I had had a problem with one of the Aristo switches. So, was the Shay being picky? Who knows. Either way, I like both brand switches. I think the Piko switches are really high quality.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The debate continues....
I'm not saying you are incorrect Robby. There are various aspects that can fudge the true radius.
The important part is distance between the theoretical points and the tip of the frog also the frog angle.
There is a mathematical cord in there which can be proven but I don't have the time or expertise to do easily.

Cliffy did some measurements in CAD.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-track-trestles-bridges-roadbed/10759-aristo-wr-dimensions-2.html

I do know that:
120" x pi / 20 = 18.84". 5ft radius 18 degree curve (20 in a circle).
96" x pi / 20 = 15.07". 4ft radius 18 degree curve (20 in a circle).

The curve of the switch to the points is aprox !8" consistent with a 60 inch radius and 18 degree departure.
The length of the switch is similar to an AristoCraft 8ft curve section which I think causes confusion.










Andrew


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## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

Will this: ARISTO-CRAFT #11299 REMOTE SWITCH MACHINE ( which I bought on ebay but has not arrived yet) work with the Pliko Switch? And what exactly does it do? The answer to this is another factor I must consider that I had forgotten about. 

One more thing, the seller does not know when the switch was made, this I feel adds to the risk of the purchase..


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

TTT, if people vouch for the demonstrated quality of the Piko switch and as we know there are some issues with the geometry of the Aristocraft switch. Considering you only need 2 of them and it being vital to have smooth carefree running. As long and you can afford the Piko it is probably your best choice. 
The switch is probably the most critical choice to make in your entire proposal apart from the planned curve radius itself. The switches will be the trouble spot 12 feet up on a wall so it needs to be right.

The Piko specification PDF states that it is a 5ft radius switch. I included it in the other thread.

Andrew


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Andrew

I couldn't have said it better.

If the track was on the ground, it probably wouldn't matter, but high in the air it is a serious consideration.

There are a lot of quotations I could use, but discretion dictates silence.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've got several Aristo WR switches "embedded" in 10' diameter curves, and they sure as heck look like continuous curves.

Aristo switches will work OK out of the box, I have found a few ways to improve them, and also I don't think the Piko switches are perfect.

I've found very few things "perfect" out of the box, and paying more for something does not necessarily mean it is better.

If you have the two switches, run the mallet through them on the ground and see what you think.

Greg


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## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

Forgive me for insisting but does anyone know if I can use the ARISTO-CRAFT #11299 mentioned above with the Piko switch?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I don't know for sure but the two brands most likely won't clip together as intended but being just a throw I'm sure it could be adapted to work somehow perhaps with a wire connector. You are fixing everything down so it probably doesn't need to attach to the switch anyway.

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

On the Aristo switches I had, I rewired the bottom as the ones I had had very small wire.
I placed one outdoors and did not want to have to remove it if the wire failed. (over current or sort).


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## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

I did win the Aristo-Craft switch afterall, I put a relatively low highest bid because of the risk I took knowing I might after testing it decide not to use it on the 12.5ft high shelf. I feel $57 is a good price for a brand new 10' diameter switch with rather good altho not perfect reviews. Since I don't even know what a frog is, I might have to bother Greg with questions about the terminology used in his writings about improving this switch. A diagram showing the parts of the switch with their to me strange names would help. When It arrivés I will send Greg a photo to see if he can tell me if it is the newer trouble free type or not. I'm glad I bought the corresponding ARISTO-CRAFT #11299 REMOTE SWITCH MACHINE . The switch and switch machine are both new and will always be used indoors, this I understand will reduce the number of failure risks.

Later on I might decide to have three parallel tracks on the short side of the room in which case I would need 4 switches and would use the Aristo Switch for small trains and a few short cars tested to run well on this switch. But that is another story. All other switches will be Piko. I thank all who gave advice.

PS Please inform me if it is not considered good practice to insert attachments with this type of content and I will remove it.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I just took a Aristo Craft manual switch machine and placed it next to the Piko switch. The ties line up perfectly, But the Piko switch only has one tie open on the end, so you will need to cut the end of the one tie open to slide the Aristo Craft switch machine into place. Then the bars are different in that the Aristo Craft bar is attached with a screw while the Piko bar uses a plastic notch and clip design. Should be an easy fix.


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## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

thanks Randy, as you see, since I will be using it on an Aristo switch after all, I will not need to modify the machine.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Keep in mind that the switch and switch machine need to be mounted flat on a single base. Otherwise, the switch rails are apt to not open fully or close fully. This is much more of a problem outdoors, but even inside if the switch is positioned over to a-joining pieces of substructure that are not perfectly level.


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