# SR&RL with 12 car train!(VIDEO)



## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?edit=vd&v=Lo2hieUzDwE
enjoy

a special thanks to art gibson


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## scottemcdonald (Jan 11, 2008)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?edit=vd&v=Lo2hieUzDwE


Video is set to private - can't view -- Scott


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

i will fix it when i get home, my google login for youtube doesnt work at school


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

I got google to work. video should be fine now


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah heck........to be thirteen again and actually get down on my hands and knees.........AND be able to get up again :!!

Great video Nate. You sure put that beauty to the test! What are the radii on those curves? 4 foot? Looks like you are gettin' the hang of it . Takes me back sixty years to my first steamer.

Bob Weltyk and I discussed your new aquisition when he was out here at Los Angeles Live Steamers earlier this month.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

I can get down easily enough. It's the return trip that's the problem.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Nate
You had her running great at slow speed. Cannot wait for you to get her outside and more track. Looks good and sounds great.


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice video Nate. I got a big laugh out of Buddy and his stick that looks like a cigar. Lite it up fo him and he can play Railroad Tycoon.
Noel


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

yup, i've thought that before that it looks like a cigar i had those on a flatcar earlier, and he is our "lumber mill". he unloads them, "processes them" and he creates lots and LOTS of woodchips! i ran ruby and 24 as a "doubleheader" with 24 on the lead and ruby trailing, and pulling 13 cars. lets just say that didnt go well at all..... Gary, glad you and bob had a good time. the curves are 5 ft radius(10 ft across) what did bob have to say about my new engine? i havent seen him online for a while. \
Art, the first freeze occured last night, and it is getting cold. i think it would be better to build it right the first time in the spring than do a bad job and rebuild it 50 times by laying it down now.again, Thanks art! i will maybe post the very bad attempt at doubleheading i took tomorrow


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Congrats! It runs well. I've always liked those Roundhouse SR&RLs. I've had the pleasure of running one on a few occasions--they're among the most docile of RH locos. 

Later,

K


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Nate,
Be careful with those knuckle couplers. If they are not absolutely virtically aligned, like between your tender, and the first car in your video, they can uncouple, and drop the train. Imagine what would happen when you are pulling a heavy train. The loco would take off like a bat. If you are on a raised layout, and do not catch it before the next corner, it will surely take a dive. Not good! That very thing happened to Will Lindley with an Aster K4. Another good reason to have NMRA insurance.


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## John 842 (Oct 1, 2015)

steamtom1 said:


> Nate,
> Be careful with those knuckle couplers. If they are not absolutely virtically aligned, like between your tender, and the first car in your video, they can uncouple, and drop the train. Imagine what would happen when you are pulling a heavy train. The loco would take off like a bat. If you are on a raised layout, and do not catch it before the next corner, it will surely take a dive. Not good! That very thing happened to Will Lindley with an Aster K4. Another good reason to have NMRA insurance.


I think that's another good reason to consider some kind of fence or retaining wall on the tighter curves on a raised track. You can set your own couplers up properly, but you have little control over what visitors might bring to the track.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"Be careful with those knuckle couplers."

Nate;

This is the reason why I use Kadee "G" couplers rather than the "#1" selections. Even though I check my installations with the Kadee coupler gage, the "G" version is more forgiving of track irregularities. If you watch some of the videos posted on this forum, you can see that even raised tracks have their "humps & dips." The larger coupling face of the "G" knuckles helps those sites from becoming a disconnect problem.

I have seen couplers vertically separate on the prototype, but it was on the apex of a hump (as in hump yard) and one of the cars always had a broken carrier iron (so its coupler was sagging).

Regards,
David Meashey


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

Nate cool vid
cooler dog!

I don't know if you know much about live steam. if you do, apologies in advance. These are some things I learned a few years back when I got my first live steam loco. Now ,

I too have an older SRRL.
let me suggest some lessons I learned.

1 the lead, trailing and tender wheel frames are white metal-I know for a fact that roundhouse is out of these, as I got the last ones-as I was told by RH. 

Be careful/gentle when putting the loco down, on anything, as this white metal is not terribly strong, and if it cracks, is virtually irreparable. I know the loco looks like a big tough metal loco, but its to be handled with care if you want it to last. be very gentle when laying it down, handling, etc. seems obvious I know. 

I do not know if the newer style Roundhouse brass frames would work. in any event, let me say that while Roundhouse is great, getting parts is less easy than a phone call. And they are not cheap.

2 While I like to tinker, and I did with my SRRL, cleaning it up, regluing the builder's plates which had come off, and taking a look at the insulation inside the smoke box , etc. 

Just in case, I strongly suggest that , if you are thinking about messing with the fuel jet, that you do NOT mess with the fuel jet until you absolutely have no choice and need to. This may never occur.

I live in Denver, (high altitude), and I had a lot of trouble getting the loco to light up when I originally received it (used) , I adjusted the jet for a leaner air fuel mix. 

Cutting to the chase, these can be terribly finicky to get just right, and it took me almost two days of lighting, adjusting, lighting, adjusting, etc.

I suggest, that while getting to know a new loco is interesting and fun, DO not mess with the jet. In theory its easy, in practice......not so much. Mine presently has a jet like whistle, which I don't like, but is where I have to be to get it to light easily and reliably. (just thought you might be as curious as I was).

Being a bit more pragmatic than prototype guy, I use mirror LGB hook and loops on the tender end, and an LGB knuckle on the front. I have been pretty happy with never dropping a consist, especially on my track grades.

In reading the thread about your new loco, I gather it has RC. But in watching your video, I saw you adjust the throttle by hand. 
if you DO have RC:
DO NOT leave the batteries in either the tender battery case OR the remote unit for more than a day or three. I cant say why, but especially the large throttle /reversing gear RC control unit will get corrosion on the battery contacts. It may have to do with using 8 AAs and the voltage when not in use.

For the valve gear and other lubes points, I use 3 in 1 BLUE label oil (not the red label). It is heavier than normal 3 in 1 and a different oil as I understand it, more like light motor oil and seems to stand heat well. It works well for lubing the axels, and valve and running gear. You can find it at hardware stores. 

never run the loco without steam oil. never use any oil other than steam oil for the lubricator. if you do, you will damage the loco, a lot. possibly ruin it.

While the idea of a tender water pump is cool, the pump ball valve often sticks. I replaced mine and it still sticks a bit. I don't fill the loco this way, as its more trouble and takes a lot of pumping to get a bit of water. you have have a goodall so you probably wont use the tender pump.

FWIW, and not to contradict your benefactor, I light mine through the stack instead of from the underside. its another option. And in case you aren't aware, if the gas is left on, unlighted, for a not very long time , on a still day, or inside where there is no air movement, it will pool under the loco. This can be a big surprise when you go to light it. How do I now this??? guess. keep you face clear as well as flammable stuffs.

One other thing to be aware of with all butane locos. The loco's fuel tank must be cooler than the fuel bottle in order for the tank to let the gas in. What this translates to is sometimes, if the fuel tank is warm , as it is just after a run, it needs to cool. you can let it cool , or put on a cool damp rag, etc. There is a difference in the pressures and the tank must have a lower pressure (cooler temp) than the fueling bottle. 

Llikewise if the fuel bottle is cold from atmosphere OR having been recently discharged, it needs to come back to a warmish temperature. Otherwise, you may get a incomplete fill of the tank. you can do this by immersing it about half way in luke warm water for a minute or so-NEVER NEVER Hot as it could explode-REALLY!!!

You might also wish to consider letting the loco come up to full steam (allowing the pressure relief valve under the dome with the whistle blow off briefly BEFORE adding throttle). Check the pressure gauge and note about where the needle is so that you will then know about what the running pressure is via the cab gauge. I noticed you had to push the train, and I am guessing it wasn't quite up to pressure before you added throttle. 

NEVER EVER let the loco run dry , especially with the burner on. keep an eye on the water glass, but understand, they sometimes don't read true.
Better to stop and refill than risk serious heat damage to the boiler. 
If the loco runs out of steam, shut off the gas immediately. Typically, the SRRL will run out of gas before it runs dry.
This is really important. Just as important as never using anything other than steam oil.

have fun.
great loco, and , great to see you have one!


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Thanks Steve i wont be running her until monday or tuesday, as i am completely out of steam oil, and i haves some coming from J at the Train Dept. hmm.... what should i get next? maybe a full scale steam engine


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

stevedenver said:


> Nate cool vid
> cooler dog!
> 
> I don't know if you know much about live steam. if you do, apologies in advance. These are some things I learned a few years back when I got my first live steam loco. Now ,
> ...


Steve
The reason I suggested lighting from underneath, the engine has a Summerland Chuffer which takes up a lot of room in the smoke stack. I told him about the accumulation of gas underneath.
Regards to your other comments, I hope Nate copies them and keeps them around.

Nate, I suggest you be satified with what you have noe. Full scale loco way down the road.
Art


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Art, being sarcastic about a 1:1 scale engine Again, thank you very much! Art, one more question:.......so about that chuffer... um are they supposed to shoot a foot in the air like a rocket out of the smokestack while running the engine? no reason i ask but really, why would this happen?


we're jealous of your weather down there in texas. is cold , damp and rainig here(snow predicted soon)

tak care, nate

BTW do you like my new invisble turntable? only 19.95 plus shipping and handling! here is it in action!


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> Art, being sarcastic about a 1:1 scale engine Again, thank you very much! Art, one more question:.......so about that chuffer... um are they supposed to shoot a foot in the air like a rocket out of the smokestack while running the engine? no reason i ask but really, why would this happen?
> 
> 
> we're jealous of your weather down there in texas. is cold , damp and rainig here(snow predicted soon)
> ...


Anything is possible Nate. The chuffer is just secured by tubing stuck in the exhaust tubing. Never given any trouble. Just do not mess with it and dont look down the stack while she is steamin up.
I guess it could have been sucessfully soldered but I installed as was desiged by the folks who made the chuffer.


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## John 842 (Oct 1, 2015)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> ........BTW do you like my new invisble turntable? only 19.95 plus shipping and handling! here is it in action!


Hey Nate - I think I see a pre-production flaw in your design, but stick with it - I'm sure you'll spot it 

I'm curious to know what the guy is doing with the air line/water hose? - presumably he couldn't drop the fire and there was a risk of the firebox overheating. Do you have a link to that incident?

Strangely enough I saw the results of a similar accident to a 10 1/4 " version of a SR&RL #24 back in the summer - although from nowhere near such a disastrous height - where the weakness in the frames that Steve referred to in his post #14 above acted as a kind of crumple zone and saved the main frames from further damage. The frame extension was 25 mm square bar bolted to the main frame and could be easily replaced.

I had thought those smoke box stays - which are common to a lot of Baldwin designs with the notoriously weak point in their frame design - were there to provide support to the box - but I've come to the conclusion that it was Baldwins intention that these stays were to provide additional stiffening to the frames rather than the other way round.

This idea was kind of confirmed when I was checking the coupler allignment on my Accucraft Baldwin NA for the reasons mentioned in Tom's post # 11 above and I found the pilot clearance to the rail at the front was only half what it was at the rear. The model must have got a bump in shipping and the bent frames had torn the smokebox stays loose.

So - as Steve said - be VERY careful how you handle the front end of #24 ....


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

John 842 said:


> I'm curious to know what the guy is doing with the air line/water hose? - presumably he couldn't drop the fire and there was a risk of the firebox overheating. Do you have a link to that incident?



Click on the photo to get to the website, "The photo shows him putting out the coal fire with a hose."


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## John 842 (Oct 1, 2015)

Chris Scott said:


> Click on the photo to get to the website, "The photo shows him putting out the coal fire with a hose."



Thanks for that Chris ....


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris Scott said:


> Click on the photo to get to the website, "The photo shows him putting out the coal fire with a hose."


This occurred at Bitter Creek Western RR, a private 7-1/2 inch gauge layout on the coast of California. Between L.A. and San Francisco. This is not the first time this kind of incident has happened. Usually "carelessness" is involved. When you have one of these steamers sitting on a steaming bay (either under steam or just parked there cold), you need to use the chain to stop any movement that may happen. I have seen close calls occur when the engine is cold because the owner didn't move the Johnson bar in the direction they were pushing or pulling the engine on the steaming truck. What happens is that some pressure builds up in the cylinders as you push a cold engine and then the person leaves the Johnson bar in "gear" and walks away to grab a tool or rag or whatever......mean while the engine slowly creeps to the end of the steam track with the slight pressure in the cylinders. Most of the time the engines are "caught" before this tragedy happens. When an engine is under steam(like this photo shows) usually the engineer had it in gear AND the brakes were not on. The throttle was very slightly cracked and thus the resulting mishap. The engine in THAT photo probably weighs in at around 1300-1500 pounds (engine alone). I'm sure it was quite a task getting that engine upright again.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

artgibson said:


> Steve
> The reason I suggested lighting from underneath, the engine has a Summerland Chuffer which takes up a lot of room in the smoke stack. I told him about the accumulation of gas underneath.
> Regards to your other comments, I hope Nate copies them and keeps them around.
> 
> ...


I wish i had a chuffer. Mine whispers politely , under the whistle of the jet. Being inept when it come to fine metal work and generally reluctant to cut things on such a pricey loco, i have been reluctant to install one. If i really knew live steamers, id likely go chuffer and....coal (fun but more work).


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

guys, chuffer reinstalled and now pulling a *13 *car train! throttle is still not completely open, and she pulls these with ease!


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Very Cool Nate!
I really like your whistle.
Tom


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

thanks tom. that was actually my 13th birthday present. ...now maybe i could mount it on my engine....


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice Nate. Looking better each time youu run her.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

how wonderful to hunker down in the garage and run live steam.
just convenient, no wind, no rain etc., really allows you to get close(r) imho than on most outside runs

nice broad radii too!

I know your 13, but ....you need either some playmobil structures, or, better still, some POLA or PIKO, to add to the railroad "ambience".


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

steve, the track will be going outside in spring(or hopefully this month)
i plan on getting some buildings from colorado model structures or if any members here have some they want to sell for a reasonable price, let me know oh, and if anyone has and aristo, splitjaw, or hillman clamps, let me know (i really need rail joilers/clamp, i need 40 total, so if you have any laying around, send me a PM. one thing i would like is for bob weltyk to build me a whistle for 24

nate


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

*Nate,You have My ph.# Have Your Mother or Dad Call Me.I will be happy to Make you one You only have to get the Engine to Me and Back to You.It will be a Christmas Present from Me.Now have them call.You can send it after the Turkey Trott at PLS*
*Your Live Steam Friend*
*Bob*


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Wow Bob! Thank you!!!! did you get my email? I will have mom call you later. Will you be at PLS turkey trot? if so, i will give it to you there if you dont mind.(i still dont trust the mail!, and i never will!!) 

thank you!!!!!!!!


Nate


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Nate here is what it looks and sounds like ,You just have to get it to Me.No I am not going to Penn fot the Turkey trot.I live in Michigan.It is a 900 mile Drive


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

nate
You dont have to use the mail. You can use Fedex or UPs. I used Fedex to ship to you.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Bob, could you make it sound more like one of these?if not, thats perfectly fine these just have more of a higher, louder sound to them.again, thank you bob!!!


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Nate,Roundhouse will not make enough steam.The Duel Chime Whistles take 40psi all the time.Your Roundhouse likes 20psi to 30 psi so the whistle will give you one short toot and die.Then wate till it builds up pressure to blow it agan
I did not get Your Email My email is [email protected]


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

bob, mine carries 45-50 psi on the gauge(theyre supposed to run at 40 according to the manual, but i set the safety a little higher), and she generates plenty of steam. i guess when you get her, you will be able to tell if she can handle one of those 2 chime whistles.(you know more about these finger-burning contraptions than i do!)


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

*Chuffer*



Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> guys, chuffer reinstalled and now pulling a *13 *car train! throttle is still not completely open, and she pulls these with ease!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6VME8wKbRM


Oh Nate,
How did the chuffer get out of her place and needed to be replaced. What happened


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

I honestly do not know. it simply popped out of the stack a good foot in the air wihle running. my best guess is some gunk in the steam lines got shaken loose while it was shipped, and it eventually made its way down to the chuffer, and got obstucted in the chuffer, causing pressure to build and shoot the chuffer out. just a guess. 

either way, i have *BIG NEWS!* today we started on the railroad!! about 50 feet of ground has been torn up, dug out, built up, and graded! this will be "phase 1" which will be completed this year(second half will be in the spring.) the only sad moment is the old railroad at the other end of the yard had to be ripped up.

i will post picture sometime.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> I honestly do not know. it simply popped out of the stack a good foot in the air wihle running. my best guess is some gunk in the steam lines got shaken loose while it was shipped, and it eventually made its way down to the chuffer, and got obstucted in the chuffer, causing pressure to build and shoot the chuffer out. just a guess.
> 
> either way, i have *BIG NEWS!* today we started on the railroad!! about 50 feet of ground has been torn up, dug out, built up, and graded! this will be "phase 1" which will be completed this year(second half will be in the spring.) the only sad moment is the old railroad at the other end of the yard had to be ripped up.
> 
> i will post picture sometime.


That sounds great. Know you are excited about it.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

*beginnings of a railroad*


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Nate
Looks like you havde accomplished a great deal. Looking real nice. I know you are happy about it. Putting th e old track to good use.
congratulations Nate.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

1st train ran today! SRRL 24 pulling a freight train(video will be posted later)


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