# The Meadley branch begins



## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Well I finally have started my layout, and in the spirit of this forum I'll post some pictures as I go. 
It will be a very small layout, and unlike most it will be a point to point switching layout using the Florida East Coast's Meadley lead as inspiration. 
I have lots of room for a loop in other parts of my yard, but this area really struck my fancy for the layout and I wanted to start with something small. I don't have a lot of time to work on it, maybe 2 or 3 days a month. 
Here is the site after 2 days of cleaning out the rock mulch (don't ever landscape with rock mulch!!) 
















I also put in drain pipes to redirect the gutter down spouts on to the drive and not into the layout space. 
Next I raised and leveled the space with landscape timbers--I will be running battery and R/C and did not want any grades. Besides it is really tough to get a car to stay on a siding that is not level. 








And here are my gandy dancers--this can be a family hobby. 
























And the progress on the ladder roadbed, ripped from ceder 2x6 and leveled on PVC pipes: 








This has all taken place over the last few months, just getting around to posting. 
I'll add to this as I get more done. Thanks for your interest.


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## Joe McGarry (Jan 4, 2008)

Very nicely done, looks like it should be an interesting layout. Hope you will keep us posted on progress. Wish I had a couple of helpers! 

Best wishes, Joe M.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice! 

Helpful youngun's there.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good. Track power,battery? Code 332 or 250?


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks for the comments. 

The yunguns (yup thats what they are south of the Mason-Dixon line) up and left with mommy today to go swimming at a friends pool!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif Not sure how swimming beats a day in the sun moving dirt--oh well. 

Paul the track is code 250, llagas creek Al rail, switch crafters #6 switches and 2 old pullman switches I had laying around. 
Battery power--I posted the engine I built in the rolling stock forum http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...rumid/14/postid/20844/view/topic/Default.aspx 
If this turns out a fraction as nice as your layout I will consider it a sucess 
Thanks for the inspiration. 
I have to credit Richard Smith with the ladder roadbed I am building: 2x6 ceder ripped on my table saw. It is working well, though I think he had acess to better quality ceder--about half of the slats I cut cracked or split at imperfections in the wood but still at about $13 for a 2x6x10 ceder board that yields about 20ft plus of roadbed--not bad!! Beats the cost of PCV lumber at over $5.00 per slat./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif 
I painted all the lumber as it will be in the ground. 
I have some better shots of the progress from last night, just need to download.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Here is a progress photo from last night. Made more progress today, I'll post those later.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a few Old Pullman turnouts. They are a bit tight in tolerance through the guard rails from the factory. I used a dremel to widen them a little. Also the point attachment to the throw bar is weak. I had a couple break. I now rebuild the throwbars in the same way that Sunset Valley does theirs. The Old Pullmans will work fine after the mods. Glad you chose to use code 250. Everything runs fine on it and it is so much better looking.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Paul, 

Do you have a picture of how you rebuilt the Old Pullman switches? I suspect it will be easier to do BEFORE I lay them! 

Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

I finished the roadbed today, just before the afternoon monsoon 

Here's a few shots of it. Next Ineed to fill in around the ladder and get on with laying the track. Still working on ballast choice--looks like it will be limestone fines--just want to find something a little more coarse than the stuff used for leveling patio stones--that is more like the size of sand. Anyone have any thoughts and buring the ladder in gravel of just dirt?


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 
If you go to the Sunset Valley website and look at a couple turnouts you can see how they do it. A heavier throw bar made out of,I think, delrin plastic. There is a fairly good size brass tab that is soldered to the inside of the point rails and screwed to the throwbar. Leave the screw slightly loose. The throwbar will be a bit oversize but worth it for long reliable operation. I also now use only their brass ground throws and switch stands on new installs,again a quality product. I think the Sunset Valley turnouts are the best built on the market,bar none. Also check the gauge on the Old Pullman. I think those were the ones that were a little tight in spots. And you are right,much easier to do on the workbench.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Update: 

Finally got some more work done. I buried the ladder roadbed in 3/8 limestone gravel (the only rock in Fl) and then topped up with limestone screenings--what I will be using for ballast. I also began laying track last night until the the skeeters got too bad 


























I'll keep posting as I make progress--we'll see how the weather holds out.


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

The Meadley Branch is really looking good. Your work is very nice and I am really enjoying your posts with Pics.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks Barry. I'll keep em comming as I get time. Should get more done in the next few days if the rain holds off--the wife and kids are out of town!


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

You've managed to get a nice sweeping track flow in spite of a confined space. Your track really looks good. 

I've heard some folks down your way have good luck with cypress. I've never used it myself because it's not readily available here but it might be an alternative in case you have trouble getting good cedar. It is used a lot for outdoor furniture, etc. I don't know how it would price out either compared to cedar down there. 

Please keep the photos coming. That is exceptionally neat work you're doing.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Richard, 
thanks that means alot comming from you--your work is exceptional. 

I purposely used #6 switches and a minimum of 6 ft RADIUS curves and then let the track flow rather than forcing the track to fit the plan. Never get as much track in a space in the real world as I manage to on paper. 

Never thought much about cypress--they don't have it at the BIG BOXes (blue or orange). Guess I could check at a real lumber yard. Problem is I usually have only Sat afternoon and Sunday to work on the railroad and only the BIG BOXes are open. 
The cedar is expensive but much better than the cost of PVC (over $5.00 each for a 1x2), especially by ripping a 2x6 (about $14)per your instructions. Though I have to admit it was not easy on my little Craftsman table saw, but with 2 of us we managed it. Thanks dad (guess the cost of the airline ticket to have him come from Denver would have bought a lot of pvc--thats assuming he came to help me and not really to see the grand kids" border=0>!)


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Spent the morning lowering and putting new trucks and kadee's on my test car. Got to have a test car right? 
Nah, its not to push around and play trains--this is real testing going on here!!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif 
Anyone but me love to push the cars around by hand--love the feeling of steel wheels on steel rail (ok plated steel on aluminum rail--but you get the idea.) Kind of takes me back to the Lionel on the floor in the basement, spent more time pushing the cars around than running the locomotive. 










Eventually it will be detailed and painted to look more like this: 










Better get back to laying track, lunch break is over, and this thing ain't gonna build itself./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

You are doing good work! Jerry


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

This afternoon's progress. All the switches are in, more track to lay, but I am running out of track. Time to call Stretch at C&OC tomorow for another box of Llagas creek track. 


















Thank goodness I don't have to wire all this up--ode to battery power!


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks fantastic, Matt! 
You have almost convinced me to go with the ladder system. I'm afraid with all of our freezes and thaws concrete wouldn't have much of a chance. I'll have to take another look at Richard's page. I like the way you built up the surrounding dirt to make the ladder frame not so raised. It looks like it's possible to make the system look realistic. I'm still hashing over the expenses of nickel - silver vs aluminum track weighed with battery conversion vs track power. UGGHHH! Gotta love this hobby!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif 
Keep us posted! 
another Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Matt, 

I had the same issues picking track, and in addition to cost I chose battery because I will likely be able to run the trains infrequently--and if I gotta clean track for an hour before each run it ain't gonna happen/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif 

The other thought I had is with a R/C battery locomotive I could theoretically run on any layout regardless of track power, DCC etc. 

The engine is done, but haven't really run it much--except for a loop of track in the livingroom. 

On a small layout like this one I think the cost of the Airwire,batteries and sound system would just offset the cost of brass or steel rail. A large layout the cost of track would be a real concern. With that said the aluminum rail is EASY to work with, no rail bender, and cuts with my HO rail nipper. Sure makes it easy to get good track alignment to be able to snip the rail in place.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, looking exceptionally nice! Your ladder looks awesome. I like how you have maximized your space. Looking forward to seeing some trains running


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

You and me both!!


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I like the look of you trackwork, it flows very nicely, but doesn't look as if everything is stuffed into a little area. It tempts me to rip out what I've layed and make it better. The visual impact of #6 turnouts helps create this look. But were are you going to find room for the industries? Doesn't look there is much room for buildings? Did you use any thing to design your layout? Is it based of a section of the FEC? 
Craig


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Craig, 

It is loosly baised on a switching lead in Miami--small municipality of Meadley Florida, an industrial wharehouse district. The end of the line has 2 large Cemex rock quarries--obviously not on my layout. My plan it to do the "HO module" thing and use false front buildings for the wharehouses and suggest the industries with signs etc. For example on eof the sidings will be a Weeks LP gas distributor that will be represented by a chain link fence, a sign, one LP tank and the unloading tower. Less is more. Will also decrease the number of buildings I need to bring inside with the next hurricaine--WHEN not IF. 
Another siding will be an interchange with the CSX--any type of car can be spotted there. Another one will be a team track--a track and pavement--thats it! 

Amazing how creative you can be with very little realestate.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Sounds like you have a great start of a layout. Eventually I would like to model a whole subdivison (Woodinville Sub, near Seattle) in my backyard!  The LP distributor sounds like an intersesting idea. My problem is that I want to load/unload my cars so I end up eating up all the real estate. I've found that building taller buildings take up less space, but give the look of a full sized industry. The one thing I don't like to compress are buidlings, modelers tend to forget how big a warehouse, or industry needs to be to deliever cars too. 
The interchange is something I hadn't thought of yet on my layout, but I might have to steal that idea. 
Looking forward to some new pictures. 
Craig


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Craig, 
Steal away--its how I got most of my ideas--my ladder roadbed is a unabashed copy of Richard Smiths system--right down to wood type and dimensions! The LP distributor idea and basic industrial lead idea is stolen from Lance Mindheim's "East Rail" Miami CSX industrial lead that was published in an issue of Great Model Railroads. He has a website on the HO shelf layout 

http://www.lancemindheim.com/ 

Copy and paste the link--you will be impressed with the realism he achieved in such a small space.


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Could someone be a gent and save me some time? I can't seem to locate Richard's website to find the details of his system. I thought it was all raised on platforms. 

Thanks


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Finished laying the track on hand. Stretch at C&OC is sending more, but it will be a week. Ode to the days of HO scale when the hobbyshop down the road carried at least some track for such emergencies (Ok not exactly an emergency--but.) 

Not to let a good afternoon go to waste, I started painting the track. This is aluminum and it will be nice and shiny silver 20 years from now as it is today--yuk. Nothing bothered me more than a beautiful HO or N layout with bright shiny rails--just ruined the realism for me (personal hang up I guess). So we are painting. Back in the day (read HO scale) I did this with my trusty airbrush--no way--rattle cans here baby! My first choice would have been Krylon camouflage series, but no one seems to have them around here without the "Fusion" added. And that seems to be bad news per many a post here on MLS. I used Krylon rusty red primer, followed by flat brown and a dusting of a beige color in "Val Spar" from Lowes. Seems like good paint, goes on just as smooth as the Krylon, and easier to find. 










Just for comparison; unpainted track: 










You be the judge. I think it will look great once ballasted. Sorry about the lighting, but I ran out of it and all I got is this little point and shoot--the wife took the SLR digital on a trip with the kids.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

*First just to clarify one thing. I didn't originate the ladder roadbed system. I merely did my own spin on it with cedar. I'm very sorry I don't remember the name of the originator but maybe someone else can supply his name. * 

*Matt V.* 
Steve Conkle did a very fine compilation of most of the POC RR's posts. It is a quite large PDF file that can either be accessed or downloaded. He even provided a table of contents so you can go to whatever part you want without scrolling through every page. Link below: 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC%20RR/POC_Main.pdf


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you, Richard 

the other Matt


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Matt, 

I HIGHLY recommend reading that compilation of Richard's posts--I even went as far as to print it out and put it in a binder for reference. It is a great read!!  Be warned it is LONG--think I burned thru a printer cartridge./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif His layout is indeed elevated, and this was my initial plan, but since I will be moving in a few years (so the wife has informed me), I figued the raised planter beds would add value to the house--all I have to do is remove the trains and the new owners can plant flowers. Raised platform would need to be torn out. Next layout will surely be raised on a platform (told my wife we will buy ONE more house--better be sure she wants to stay--I hate moving that much, besides it is hard on the trains). Even my slightly raised beds are hard on the back--and I ain't that old--YET/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I believe the originator of the ladder system was Bill Logan: 

 ladder system  

But Richard is the champion of the Smith Outdoor Benchwork method


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jimtyp on 07/22/2008 11:02 AM
I believe the originator of the ladder system was Bill Logan: 

 ladder system  

But Richard is the champion of the Smith Outdoor Benchwork method 




*Hmmmm! Smith Outdoor Benchwork! S.......O.......B..! Yep, I like it! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif*


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Richard, 
You truly have a great sense of humor. 
Haven't gotten much done in the last few days--rain and more rain every evening. Got to work during the day--got to fund the trains somehow (oh and save for retirement, pay the mortgage and save for the kids college--but we will keep our priorities straight--trains first!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif 
Spent the last few days putting metal wheels and kaydee's on a few more cars. Nothing exciting. I am hoping to finish painting the track tomorw and begin ballasting. Oh and I got two new train DVD's in the mail this week--could be another reason for my lack of progress--hummmmm/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif" border=0>


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

LOL! Richard, I didn't realize the acronym I was proposing. How about Benchwork Outdoor Smith System - U da' BOSS


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## blackburn49 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr G on 07/06/2008 2:27 PM

I finished the roadbed today, just before the afternoon monsoon" /> Here's a few shots of it. Next Ineed to fill in around the ladder and get on with laying the track. Still working on ballast choice--looks like it will be limestone fines--just want to find something a little more coarse than the stuff used for leveling patio stones--that is more like the size of sand. Anyone have any thoughts and buring the ladder in gravel of just dirt? 

















Great technique. _Very_  impressive layout underway ! Thanks for the updates.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks for all the comments 

Here is the latest. Got all the track painted--again ala Richard Smiths technique, though I laid the track then painted it is place, I will ballast next to cover up the overspray--used to do it this way in HO and old habbits die hard/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue2.gif 


















Began ballastaing as well. A few experiments: 

This is 1/4 minus limestone (well 3/8 limestone passed thrue a screen into a bucket) 









Good texture, but perhaps a little large for 1/29, better for 1/20.3 (narrow guagers in Fl are you listening). 

This is limestone screenings after application but before "watering in" (mother nature does this every afternoon)/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif 









Looks less like sand after watering, note in this shot only a base layer of screenings is in place but track is only painted, but this is what the limestone screenings look like after mother-nature has watered in and compacted. 









I have been very suprised how stable this stuff is after a few rain storms and no "glue." I was contemplating mixing the ballast with portland cement and then watteering in, but that may not be necessary. It does settle about 1/4" after a few days, but holds its shape and rather just "sinks" down as the sand settles. I have plans to "top up"--at $3.25 a bag I can top up for a long time, and the concrete supplier is just down the road. 

As the sun goes down and if the weather holds, I'll ballast more today (too hot and humid to work in the middle of the day!) Not sure why I did not start this project in the winter--70 F weather and no rain, guess I'm not that smart 

Later Matt


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