# New Kadees NICE!!!!!!!!!



## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Well i received my order from RLD hobbies of kadees so i could finish fitting out my last 30 CSX special run RLD hoppers cars and i was very surprised to get the new version Kadees
After looking them over and installing a pr, I have to say these are the nicest Kuppler ive seen yet. Way to go Kadee, thats why your #1. And no price increase over the older version.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Nick, 

How do you think they will stand up over the long haul outdoors with the coupler springs encased in the coupler. I would think this will help collect dampness and dirt. What do you think?? 

Bob C.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you look at them closely, the knuckle spring is more enclosed, but not completely. You can still see a bit of it from the outside. Many photos are angled to not show this at all. 

There's enough clearance around the spring that I have no concerns. 

I've been using them since I received a number of them from Kadee (thanks Sam!) and have nothing but praise. They are stronger (thicker plastic where the knuckle attaches to the "shaft", and much more realistic looking. 

Regards, Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Are they plastic or metal?


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Plastic.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The remote uncoupling feature needs nice low friction pivoting of the knuckle. Since you already have a metal "glad hand" plastic works well. 

Now Kadee has tried metal in one part of the #1 couplers. 

Are you worried about breaking a coupler? You will break the mount before the coupler... My 50 car trains up a 3.4% grade is more stress than 100 cars on 1% - 1.5%.... 

I thought you had pretty mild grades on most of your layout Marty. 

Regards, Greg


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

How would these work on a 5' diameter curve? I currently have talgo mounted Bachmanns on most of my cars and engines, but prefer the body mounted Kadees for realism and easy coupling. The Bachmanns are OK, except they are WAY too big and don't couple easily. Thanks in advance for any info.


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

FWIW to anyone, I don't care much for the newer metal Kadees, got about 20 of newer metal 820s in service now, 
and they don't couple up with anywhere near the ease of the old plastic type unless U lube the outer face, and 
thats going to pick-up dirt... Hope whatever replaces the 820 in this newer type is plastic and works as well as the
older ones... Been using Kadees for well over 50 years, (HO & LS) and breakage has never been a problem with 
old plastic ones anyway..
Paul R...


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul, check the angle of the uncoupling pin on the 820's. I had problems with the new metal knuckles freely uncoupling until I discovered that the angle of the pin was too shallow. Take a metal knuckle and a plastic knuckle and clamp them in a vice holding them by the pin and you may notice a significant difference in the angular offset. I was able to adjust the angle using a pliers, but Sam also agreed to replace them when I mentioned it to him.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Greg, I did not have good luck on body mounts on 40' cars on less than 8' diameter curves. I know people have done it, but my goal is very reliable operation, that is why you hear me talking about 40 and 50 car trains on my layout which is small. (about 800' of track including the 7 track switch yard). 

I don't think I would recommend them on such tight curves. You mention easy coupling, but on curves that tight, body mounts will not line up for coupling (they won't pull apart if already coupled).. I'm afraid you are stuck with truck mount couplers. Now you could go truck mount Kadees... 

Regards, Greg


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, 
See what Ur talking about with the coupling hand, the ones on the plastic knuckles R at a much greater angle
than the metal ones... I never use the uncouple lever, an always cut them off at installation anyway... My 
problem is not with uncoupling, but coupling... I can take 2 new plastic ones and push them together by hand
and then do the same thing with 2 new metal ones, an its noticeably more difficult to couple the metal ones 
than the plastic ones until U put a little lube on them, then they work fine... Petroleum lubricants will work, 
but likely pick up dirt, dry lubes probably won't stay there, bring back the plastic... From what I gather the 
new ones have gone back to plastic, so maybe this will be a short lived problem, I did talk to Sam about the 
problem, other than a little lube he didn't have much to recommend other than switch to 920s which R still
made of plastic...
Paul R...


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul, I'm using the metal ones (after I adjusted the angle) on all the cars I run on the switching challenge at the HAGRS, using the magnetic uncouplers and have had no problems coupling or uncoupling. I do however, rub a lot of powdered graphite on the couplers.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Wanted to add that the new style Kadee's work just as nice as the old ones. I got a few to test and I much prefer the new look. So much so that I'm almost tempted to start a major conversion to these new ones (900 series). 


Eek just when I finally got to standardizing with the old version


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I'll be changing out slowly... they do look nicer... 

It's only money, ha ha! 

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

In the pic above of the 907 part, it looks to me like the gearboxes are included. I thought they were only going to offer the knuckle to begin with. So if we can buy the complete coupler assembly that will be great. 

Randy


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By rlvette on 07 Mar 2010 10:59 AM 
In the pic above of the 907 part, it looks to me like the gearboxes are included. I thought they were only going to offer the knuckle to begin with. So if we can buy the complete coupler assembly that will be great. 

Randy 

Randy the 907 is the complete set with 2 couplers draft boxs springs and shims complete.........


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

I probably should have added that the new couplers are larger then the old style. So 1:29 molders may want to stick with #1 gauge couplers.

I think the new style couplers look really nice with my 1:22.5 scale equipment (looks like standard gauge couplers on narrow gauge equipment)...just the look I was going for. But the larger size from the old style makes me wonder if they will look way too big for 1:29, as the old style looked too big to me when used with 1:29.

New style #1 gauge couplers are likely in the works. So it's only a matter of time until they come out.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Ya spend your bucks for the Kadee's. I'll spend my bucks getting more equipment.







Of course I do not operate more than 15 cars in a consist so I'm good to go. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Remember, Nick basically got his Kadees for free, by selling his old Aristos. 

I will stick with the larger new style Kadees, I like the look better, and I'm used to a little "scale flexibility", I do run 1:29 which means that at least one part of every piece of rolling stock is "wrong". 

The reason the #1 couplers have metal is that under extreme heat and long term stress, the smaller coupler could break or come apart, thus the metal knuckle. The larger knuckle of the "G" scale ones did not exhibit this. (this was lots of stress and blazing Arizona summers)... 

The down side of the metal knuckles is you don't have the very low friction plastic everywhere. 

Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I have installed a few of the #1 scale 1789's with the new metal knuckle and have not had any problems.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Apparently some people were able to break the plastic knuckled #1's.... did that ever happen to you Paul? 

BTW, you will be coming to the shows in Pomona/Ontario this year, right? Will say hi. 

Regards, Greg


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, I have had many split right where the pin is pressed through. After that happens they will uncouple if given slack, Not every time, it is random. This is on the 820's. I think that part is now made of metal, but have not seen any "new" ones yet... But soon because I'm almost out of them.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, Kadee did tell me that was the reason to make the knuckle metal. 

You might contact Kadee, they might replace them for a reduced cost, or maybe even free, who knows. 

They have always treated me well. 

Regards, Greg


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the new "E" couplers. 
However I think I will just put them on engines and cabeeses. 
The old style looks great / works great but I'm not going to change 30 to 40. 
You don't realy notice them on box cars. 
Just my 2cents 
Sean


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By smcgill on 13 Mar 2010 02:19 PM 
I like the new "E" couplers. 
However I think I will just put them on engines and cabeeses. 
The old style looks great / works great but I'm not going to change 30 to 40. 
You don't realy notice them on box cars. 
Just my 2cents 
Sean That's probably how we'll do it too. Change out the locos and cabeese. And maybe the passenger equipment.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
No,never have broken a knuckle on a 820 or 1789. I first saw the new metal #1 knuckle 3 years ago at a train show in Portland where Kadee had a booth. Took them awhile to get it to market just like everyone else. And yes I will be attending the SWGRS and BTS in June. Staying at the Sheraton in Pomona.


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