# Swimming pool and swimmers



## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

I would like to create a swimming pool for the layout.[/b] 

Length ~ 15in x width ~ 8in x depth~2in, to use with 1/29 th . The pool shape could be made by an aluminum baking pan. Ideally, it would be easily removable during the winter. Since I want to have figures swimming in the pool, the "water" would need to be some type of clear material that would solidify after pouring and placing of the figures. The material should be UV resistant so it would not discolor after being outside during the 8 months of the year. 
Also, any suggestions for source of swimming figures would be appreciated.[/b]


Any Suggestions ??????????[/b] 









Image from: http://www.swtafe.vic.edu.au/campus...g_pool.jpg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

A couple Priesler "Adam & Eve" sets with a few assorted others thrown in for good measure. For the discerning modeler, the Priesler figures are assembled from body parts to make 6 women and 6 men so can be made in a huge assortment of ways. They are nude and the males are anatonically correct.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim.. 

A baking pan would give you a set depth from end to end. If you want to replicate a regular pool with a deep end and a shallow end I'd try a paint roller pan.


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave & Todd,
Thanks for the suggestions. The pool is to represent a competition 25yd swimming pool, so the uniform depth is not a problem. I would definitely have to paint on swim suits for the figures to represent my grandson's swim team.

The biggest potential problem is coming up with the material for the "water."

JimC.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Very few things that are clear are not affected by UV. There must be some UV resistant resin somewhere. 

Regards, Greg


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Take a look at Mas Epoxies. They are specialty formulated marine epoxies designed to protect and preserved brightwork and wood on boats. I know the UV inhibitors they use are almost supernatural. A friend uses it on his sailboat and just swears by the stuff. Might be worth a peek. 


http://www.masepoxies.com/public/


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## NW Jim (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm in the hot tub biz, so I call on pool and spa stores all the time. Many of them have "Barbie-sized" pools that they use for displays. Many times these get out-dated and the dealer just throws them away. As this is the time of year when the new models come out, you might want to call some pool stores in your area and see if they are disposing of their old displays. Just a thought...


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

Be very cautious using resins that are made for thin film use in mass castings. The heat generated can be extreme and will often cause the resin to burst into flame and give off toxic fumes. If you are set on using resins, I would either use TAP Clear-Lite Casting Resin[/b] or EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy[/b]. Both will yellow over time, with the epoxy resin yellowing faster than the polyester. Both are made to pour into a mass casting though. The polyester is cheaper, though neither is cheap







, but also tends to shrink when it cures.

If I were doing this project, I would look into using a sheet of acrylic to represent the top surface of the water and leave the area underneath it hollow. You could still suspend swimmers underneath the surface and it would be hard to tell that it wasn't solid. This method would also be much cheaper to do. 

Russ Miller


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

At the Conservatory of Flowers exhibit that the BAGRS built in November, Jack Verducci used Lucerne FFV Textured Acrylic[/b] to simulate the water under the Golden Gate Bridge.
Here is a photo I took showing the convincing effect.








Russ Miller


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I would use envirotex uv stable 74 for the water



http://www.eti-usa.com/indust/ex74.html



and Preiser for the swimers




http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/590-45012


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Envirotex is the stuff to use! Use a propane torch to remove any bubbles. I am currently researching the use of this stuff for my Cedar bar top. I am being very cautious because it is a 1 time pour kinda deal for me! When finished, just the bar top alone will be worth about a grand or more. It is awesome and can be layered for thickness. Paint the bottom of the "pan" blue.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

I've been selling Ultra-Glo Polymer Coating[/b] for 30 years now. TAP Plastics was the inventor of this kind of clear coat resin product and ETI bought it from us many years ago. TAP Plastics even sells the *Ultra-Glo EX-74* UV-Resistant coating. These materail are made to be poured in a single THIN layer and are not intended for mass castings. You can pour multiple coats to get more depth but normally you don't exceed 3 or 4 coats maximum. This ends up being maybe 1/8" thick...When making indoor water features for model railroads, the base is usually painted in varying shades of blue and green to simulate shallow and deep area. The Ultra-Glo (or EnviroTex) is then poured over the surface to give it some depth and gloss.

Russ Miller


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Russ - is the EX-74 the same thing as Envirotex Lite I got at Hobby Lobby? I have seen a table with a hole in it filled about 2 inches thick and it is as clear as day.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 18 Mar 2010 03:59 PM 
Russ - is the EX-74 the same thing as Envirotex Lite I got at Hobby Lobby? I have seen a table with a hole in it filled about 2 inches thick and it is as clear as day. 


From what I understand, the Envirotex Lite is our Ultra-Glo that ETI has repackaged. The EX-74 is supposed to be more UV-Resistant. Being more resistant to UV degradation than the normal Envirotex is not much of a statement since I've seen the regular stuff yellow and crack outdoors in less than a year. Maybe the EX-74 will last longer, I just can't tell you how long. How large in daimeter was the hole? The larger the mass the greater the heat developed. I made a really nice table where I mixed black pigment in the Ultra Glo and used that to fill a lot of cracks and holes. After the resin cured, I sanded the surface smooth and poured a layer of the clear Ultra Glo over the top. It was stunning when it was completed.

Russ Miller


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