# Aristo Craft E-8 Kadee Body mount coupler install



## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

After having converted my Dash 9's, SD-45's to Kadee body mounted couplers I decided to start converting my other equipment as well.
The first thing I did was my body mount my B&O heavyweights with 906's and I really liked the results so the next step was to convert my B&O E8.

I didn't like the flex in the pedestal so I decided to cut it off and build a platform to mount a Kadee 906 coupler.

 I used 1x1 PVC Stock as the material for my base. Trimmed it down to cause as little interference with the rear motor block as possible.

 I then centered and pilot drilled the base, and checked the fit.

 
 
Then I painted the blocks.

 
Then completed the final install, I ended up removing the rear brake shoes for additional clearance with the rear motor block and the 906.

 
 
Finally the complete install and how it lines up with the Kadee gauge.

 
It came out pretty good and now I have a solid secure coupler with no flex or play in it.

Ron


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Looks good Ron,

Did you do the same

for the pilot area ?


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ron, great-looking install! I'm planning to pick up some 906's myself sometime soon! Are your couplers mounted at proto-height or "Aristo height"?


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Thanks Nick, I'm not planning to do the fronts on my E-8's, I like the streamlined look of the nose without a coupler and don't want to mess it up. 
If in the future I need to double head them I may make a B unit. 

The couplers are set to line up with the Kadee height gauge, I'm not sure if thats proto height or not. 

Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

It was a beautiful day today so I decided to test out the new Kadee installation.

What a huge difference they made. I didn't have a single derailment even with the dreaded 6 wheel trucked Aristo heavyweights.
They worked perfectly going through the R7 crossovers at speed, and even negotiated the R3's in the rail yard without incident.

The heavyweights were one of my favorite looking cars but never got much use, but that will change now.

I made a video showing all aspects of operation and at different speeds.

Ron


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Ron,
Do you have any videos of your E-8 backing the passenger cars through the yard switches? I would love to see that. I've had some trouble backing my passenger cars through Aristos wide radius switches (the 10ft dia ones). Also, it would be great to see a side photo of how close the E-8 and first car sit next to each other. 
Thanks, Bob


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you have an S curve through 2 closely spaced WR switches, long passenger cars will not make it, even with the truck mount couplers. 

There is a crossover of 2 WR switches just out of sight on this picture.











Greg


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Bob in Kalamazoo on 28 Feb 2011 08:59 AM 
Ron,
Do you have any videos of your E-8 backing the passenger cars through the yard switches? I would love to see that. I've had some trouble backing my passenger cars through Aristos wide radius switches (the 10ft dia ones). Also, it would be great to see a side photo of how close the E-8 and first car sit next to each other. 
Thanks, Bob



I don't have any video going backwards but I do have some pictures of the lead car and engine and car to car, the distance is half what it used to be.
I can tell you this though before the body mounts I had to run the heavyweights without the center wheels of the 6 wheel trucks installed
to keep them from derailing through the R3 switches. 

Ron


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Thanks Ron for the pictures and additional information. That helps. I like the way you've mounted the couplers to the locomotive. Great job.

And thanks Greg for the picture of the s curve. I wasn't going to try and back through an s curve, just on to a siding. Your picture of those cars on that s curve is down right scary.










Thanks,
Bob


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, you can have an S curve on a siding too was the point I wanted to make. If you are running heavyweights, there are some tips on my site to make them run better. 

Greg


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Good point about the s curve on a siding. It's easy to not think of that until you find that you have a problem. Yep Greg, I have read your web site. I go back there from time to time when I have a problem. As others have said, You have a lot of valuable information posted there. Between your site and George's site I can usually find the answers to most of my questions. 
Thanks to both of you,
Bob


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Ron,

You did a beautiful job on the E8 Kadee coupler installation and presentation, too.









As to s-4's (I wish folks would identify by real name) question about prototypical coupler height, yes, the Kadee gauge is virtually prototypical. I looked into this before I started converting to Kadee couplers and wrote a vignette.

There is a U.S. government document, Code of the Federal Register, CFR 49 section 232.2, that includes requirements for prototype 1/1 railroad car coupler heights.

The Kadee 880 / 980 gauge, when scaled up, is within the prototype allowance with respect to CFR 49, section 232.2, to be accurate.

See write up, "*Kadee 880 Coupler Height Gauge Measurements Vignette*" 


-Ted


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Thanks Ted I have learned a lot from reading your's and Greg's guides so I try to model mine after them.

Nick asked me to check how the 907 style couplers would work. Using those you lose the sliding "soft" knuckle for a fixed one (solid mount, no spring loaded for and aft motion).
The trade off is you they are smaller in overall size allowing you to bring the cars and engine closer together, but remember the closer the cars are the larger the curve radius.

I was also asked what size the base block is. The base measures about 17.60 mm (I did notice a slight difference in the height need between the 2 engines I did, so start there or a little higher and sand to fit).
I also needed to make a small step on the front lower part of the block that butts up to the rear of the engine because of a slight height difference between the two mating surfaces there.

Ron


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