# What size styrene to stock?



## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

I've gotten inspired by some of ya'lls models in styrene to give it a try myself. But I have to admit I'm totally clueless as to what size/thickness of sheet styene to get. So I'm gonna ask the "experts" out there as to what thickness(es) to buy and why? Also, what about some of the other shapes such as round, quarter-rounds, etc. that I should purchase? I know that what I want to build will dictate what to buy to a certain extent. I'm just looking for as much info about this new medium (to me anyway) as I can locate.

Thanks

Bill W


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Bill,
 
It all depends on what you are to build really: in G scale the main thicknesses I use are  0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5,mm and 2mm thick, and get the largest sheet size you can as it is cheaper (in the end) that way.


Don't forget the cement: there is a water thin liquid and a slightly thicker stuff in small squeeze bottles. It can also be joined with epoxy resin glues BUT no too much as it can melt the stuff. Also but a thin paint brush for applying the water thin cement, it will 'wick itself' into joins with a brush and can be accurately placed 


A good 'primer' book for using styrene is made by Evergreen at about $15.00 I think for the price.


 Even better is to goto the Archive section of MLS and then the Masterclass section and then the Carter Brothers coach article - and download it: it is long and has lots of photos, and advice on styrene as it is made from it. They are not available from the sources mentioned BUT are available if you are interested in them - from Bronson-Tate here is the website    http://www.bronson-tate.com/ml.shtml   for them (no connection)


You ask about strip: forget the fancy stuff till you find out what you need and buy just that. Otherwiose have a look at 1mm square, 1.6mm square and 2mm square to start with, I would suggest just the 1mm stuff as a starter. IF you gave a small circular saw you can with care cut your own from sheet.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill

The two things I would suggest are:
[*] What ever thicknesses of plastic you decide on stocking. Check to see if you have a local supplier of plastic sheet and buy from them in 4' x 8' sheets and have them cut the full sheets down into 2' x 4' pieces if transport is a problem. You'll wind up with a much better ratio of $$$ per sq. ft. than if you buy the styrene from Evergreen or Plastruct (i.e. either from your local hobby shop or direct).

Depending on your location you might consider one of the MLS sponsors TAP Plastics[/b] as a source.

[*] Don't over look other types of plastic other than styrene (e.g. polycarbonate, Acrylic, etc. etc.)
[/list] The following are links to Evergreen and Plastruct Internet presence.

Evergreen Scale Models[/b]

Plastruct[/b]


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Get a little bit of everything, and realize that regardless of how well-stocked you are, the size you need will not be on your shelf. The suggestion about buying large sheets is good, but it's also worth the expense to buy some small strips, too. (anything under 3/16") unless you're cutting it from really thin sheet (.010" or thinner). Otherwise, the strips will have a tendency to twist as you cut them--not what you're after. 

For special shapes, half-round is good for beading along the edge of a cab roof or tender. I usually use 1/16". An assortment of tubing and rod is handy. I keep a good supply of .100" styrene rod lying around because I use that to fill hole if I'm kitbashing. I'll drill out the existing hole to .100", insert the tubing, weld it in place with solvent cement, let it dry, snip it as close to flush as I can, then sand smooth. I like it better than using putty. 

Later, 

K


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

(dimensions in thousandths) 
In sheet stock of styrene and ABS I use 020, 040, 060. For structural cores I generally use 197(5mm) acrylic sheet. Even though I have a extensive list of tubes, strips, angles, rounds and beams, every time I start a project it seems like I don't have the size I need. Strip stock 250 X 250 is good for bracing and corners, I seem to use a lot of 060 X 080 and 060 X 100 for ribs and such. 250 x 060 strip is good for running boards and fascia strips in my scale of 1:22.5. 

For a recent girder bridge project I used an 060 core for the beams, 020 sheet with embossed rivets for the flanges, 125 angles and 040 sheet for the crossbeams, 100 angle for the diagonals and the stringers were 375 ABS I beams. The 060 cores were styrene sheet cutoffs that I picked up at a local sign company. 

For cement I use MEK, found in the paint section of most home improvement stores. It is very thin, wicks well into joints and sets/evaporates quickly. You MUST have adequate ventilation for this stuff. It only works well when joining the same types of plastic to each other.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's my two bits:

Trying to "stock" the ready-made shapes you "might need" can get expensive quickly, and you'll wind up with a lot of stuff you probably won't use after all. If you have a local hobby shop with a styrene rack, let them carry the inventory. Buy what you need as you need it.


Sheet stock is another story. I keep a small supply of 010, 020, and 040 on hand. You can build anything with nothing more than these, if you're clever about it and willing to experiment with techniques. 

I second the recommendation to buy larger sheets if you can, but only after you know which sizes you, personally, use a lot of. Also, the suggestion to get a fabrication manual is also spot on. Start with this free one: 

[url]www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Styrene Modeling [/url] (increment chapter number as required to see complete manual)

On a historical note: many years ago, Al Armitage wrote an article for Model Railroader called "The Case for Styrene" in which he showed how to build up thicker sheets by laminating, how to cut thin strips accurately, and make special shapes by combining and/or rounding over strips with a hobby knife. Clever fellow...made intricate HO models with no tools but a hobby knife and a little MEK. Kemtron later published it as "Styrene Fabrication." Evergreen's "how to" seems to be based on Al's work, too.


Oh, well. Old guys ramble on...

Dawg


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By dawgnabbit on 16 Feb 2010 05:41 PM 
Here's my two bits:

I second the recommendation to buy larger sheets if you can, but only after you know which sizes you, personally, use a lot of. Also, the suggestion to get a fabrication manual is also spot on. Start with this free one: 

[url]www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Styrene Modeling [/url] (increment chapter number as required to see complete manual)


Oh, well. Old guys ramble on...

Dawg 

When I click on the link you gave, it only has a few sample chapters of the book. They want $14.95U.S. plus $3.00 shipping & handling for the whole book. Did I go to the wrong place?


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

No, you're right and I'm wrong. I had remembered (incorrectly, obviously) that the on-line version was complete.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Dawg (blushing)


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## 3lphill (Feb 22, 2008)

You might also find out if the local large format printing company will save you some rems. They print display boards on the stuff and the shop we use at work often has a pile of off cuts that are free for the taking. 
Phillip


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## rwalker (May 22, 2008)

I usually keep .020, .032, .040 and.050 sheet around for making cabs and car sides. .070 and .080 for car ends and .125 for the floors. If you run across a plastics supplier, they might have remenant sheets that sell by wieght. I got bargains from such a place in Burbank once.


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