# Builder's log, Ruby 2-4-0 conversion...



## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Hi friends. As some of you may know, i have been busy converting my little Ruby into a 2-4-0. My Ruby is not kit but a factory build. I have some questions as far as to how to approach construction. I want to take off the domes and strip the paint on the boiler. I really want to do a boiler jacket and paint it all with krylon charcoal grill paint. The domes however are sealed on there tight. I know how the rest of the loco comes apart but how are the domes assembled? They are two pieces right? The top part that twists off and the bottom that rests on the boiler. Anyway, here are pictures of it. It runs, in forward but not reverse. I have it tuned for inside admission in forward. It was taken on my Blackberry curve but the quality actually isn't bad. Here they are anyway, enjoy.























































I will paint it, soon. I am still deciding on what I want to do for the side skirts or if I should just leave it alone. I have used a lot of jb weld to hold it together and brass screws. The screws hold well but some of the stuff I glued with JB weld did not fair so well. It did have side skirts on there but they fell off during construction. I have a solder but I'm not sure if it will be able to do it and I am not familiar with soldering brass. Right now I ordered a pilot kit from Bronson Tate and plan on building a new front buffer beam. So I need to see how that goes first. Almost forgot the cab is from Ozark Minatures and the tender is from the Accucraft estore.


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## S.B.A. (Jul 19, 2009)

The engine looks good. It sounds like the sand dome and steam dome should be threaded and can be taken off that way, as the for bottom of the domes that might be a problem, im not sure how accucraft dose it, but im sure its a more permanent bond like silver solder, the bottom of the domes may be on there for good, the the top should be threaded to the bottom. you will want to silver solder, if you do solder at all, the regular electrical solder will come undone when the locomotive is in operation. Also, if you plan on repainting the boiler, cut a sheet of brass anything from .005-.015 inches will do, and paint that instead, then remove the boiler bands, wrap the boiler with the painted sheet, and then secure it with the boiler bands. Hope this helps.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

how are the domes assembled?
My pal Tom tells me the domes are attached from the inside of the boiler jacket with screws (on the larger locos - I assume the Ruby is similar.) I confirmed this by ordering a spare dome from Cliff at Accucraft - it came with a screw inside, attached from the bottom/underneath. Tom says you can reach the screws through a hole in the bottom of the boiler jacket. Sounds like you need the right tools for the job? 

You basically have to take the boiler out. I'm waiting for detailed instructions, with photos, from the experts here...


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## S.B.A. (Jul 19, 2009)

The domes may be attached by a screw, but im not sure where, because the ruby has no boiler jacket.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pull the domes off, there is a clip inside them. Just a pressure fit. If you never pulled them off yet then they will be a bit tight.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

When the "second generation" Ruby came out, the ones with the water filler on the turret instead of the sand dome, there was a lot of discussion about removing the domes. I asked Cliff at Diamondhead and he told me they were soldered to the boiler. This was I believe at the 08 DH. 
Larry


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks from the gas tank that you do have the 2nd gen of the Ruby. You have another option that Kevin Strong did on one of hism sparkies was a metallic paint that gives you the same effect. You would have to search his threads for what he used of contact him on here though as I dont remember what it was.


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

Looking good so far. I'm interested to see how it turns out!


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Just posting an update. I'll be done with construction and painting in the next few days. I added a trailing truck to it making it into a Columbia type 2-4-2. It looks good now. I added a copper boiler jacket and grinded it down to fit around the dome bases. It looks fairly good. Not quiet professional but I'm more than satisfied with what I was able to do. Expect to see pics later this week.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/...rame01.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/...rame02.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/...rame03.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/...rame04.jpg


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice project! I'm interested in the pilot - where's it from?


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Bronson Tate Short Porter Pilot kit was the cow catcher that was used. It has been remounted once actually. I originally bought balsa wood to mount it to as the pilot buffer beam. Well hehe, it didn't survive! I had pulled the pilot deck off for touch ups and it accidently fell onto the floor. That ended the balsa pilot beam. So instead I cut down and repainted the original front buffer beam. Again, these pics were taken on my Blackberry. I'll use a real camera to take the final pics after it has been assembled.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

It is all done now and as promised I took the pictures on a 'real' camera. I used duplicolor low gloss black engine paint on the boiler jacket, domes, cylinder heads, pilot deck, and cow catcher with Rustoleom black charcoal grill paint as a primer. The firebox is painted with grey/ silver Rustoleom charcoal grill paint. If you ever need a good paint, Rustoleom charcoal grill for high heat is the best. I just hope it all survives while running a week and few days from now!


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