# LGB Mogul 2019s



## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

Hello All, 

#1: I have a C&S mogul that has been sitting for a years. I pulled it down and tried to get her running. I'm using a MRC 6200 transformer (non DCC) and a small track (10 feet test track). When I turn the power wheel, the mogul starts slow (after the throttle is more than half way. She starts slow but will eventually get going...she draws about .9 to 1.1 amps at full speed (with no tender or firebox running) running with no amp/draw spikes when starting from stop. 

The motor arm spins freely. I cleaned the inside of the drive wheels that contact the brushes. I also cleaned the commutator on the arm and the brushes inside the motor can. 

I will take an ohm meter from the pick up to the leads in the tender to see if there is a lot of resistance although I don't know what is normal resistance from the pick up to wires that contact the motor. 

Any suggestions on how to test the electrical or what is a normal draw? I only have a digital volt meter. 


#2: I also noticed the metal weights are also starting to slowly disintegrate where there is white dust everywhere inside the gear and motor housing. Is it okay to clear coat the weight to help control the dust?


#3: Also anyone know where I can get the boiler little black plastic hand rail holder for a mogul?

$4: I noticed inside the boiler housing, the wheel sound cam wiring for the sound was not hooked up to the circuit board. I did not see any open blocks to plug the harness wire from the cam wheel sensor. There is a block that will fit the harness...but two green wires are already plugged to that one harness. 
Does anyone know where the wire harness for the cam sensor goes on the circuit board? I did remove the two green wires harness and plugged in the harness from the rear wheel cam sensor but the sounds timing does not sync with the engine....any suggestions?

I bought this used a long time ago I just let her sit and now, I don't know if this train is running normal or not. There are no instructions and I printed the schematic.

Newbie in need of help.

Thank you.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Answers to some of your questions.

#1 Typically an engine with one motor will draw between 0.5 and 1 amp. When figuring power needs for a power supply I figure one amp per motor. Smoke, lights and sound add to the needed power.

#2 In all likely hood, the white powder is lead oxide. LGB used to use lead weight. At sometime, unknown to me, they changed their weight. I have a number of LGB engines, and I have never seen the white powder. My guess is that it was stored in an environment that facilitated the oxidation of the lead. A warm moist area? Lead oxide used to be used a a white pigment in paint.

Clear coating it shouldn't hurt.

Chuck


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

Hello Chuck, 

Thank you. The Mogul has been at another location for years as it was lent to another person. Hence I'm not sure where it was. 

So the engine draw is somewhat normal. The engine will not run at a slow pace. 

I will try to post a picture of the gear housing. 

Is there a safe can spray I can use to clean out the grease on the gears but not hurt the plastic?

Is there a good parts source for LGB parts other than the LGB dude on ebay?

I have a very old Marklin 1 gauge (1970's) set that also should be serviced too. 

Thank you very much
TG


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

A train shop called "Trainli" <http://www.trainli.com> in Upton, MA has a lot of LGB parts and does repair. Mike Kidmann at Reindeer Pass, a sponsor here, may also have parts.

I'd use a Q-tip and just work out the old grease. With the lead oxide dust, don't use any sprays. You don't want that air born such that you might breath it.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Take the weight out and scrub it under water, that way no dust. I find coating the lead weights with an anticorrosion spray (like you get at marine supplies) will keep the lead dust from re-forming. I have a lot of USAT locos that did this.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Is there a number on the bottom of the engine starting with a 2 and either 4 or 5 digit. This tells us the real part number. The gold sticker if present is the year of manufacture (first and last digit).
Many moguls are C&S, which number do you have.

I have fixed/upgraded many LGB moguls at Trainli and am very familiar with the wiring. The chuff sensor on older moguls has a 3 wire connedctor and plugs in the top of the board. Under this board are 3 wires (low voltage power, common and signal) that go to the 6 pin cable. The other 3 wires on the 6 pin cable are 2 for track power and one for the rear tender light (no light on the wood tender).
Black hand rail holder is called a stanchion and there are 2 sizes, each pf which is not available as a spare part at this time from trainli.


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

Thank you Greg and Dan:

I have some Spar Varnish I will use on the weights once I wash and dry them out. You have a nice website. I also have a few z-scales sets (mostly the Christmas MTL line). 

On the engine number, the engine is 6 the number on the gold sticker is 801028 so I guess this was built in 1988. I did not see a number on the bottom of the engine as you described...just a gold sticker the the 2019S..see attached pic. 

I also attached a pic of the dust I will clean out...any suggestion on cleaning the grease off the gears? 

On the chuff wire, as you can see, I unplugged the two green wires and connected the three wire (chuff) that connect to a 6 wire harness as you mentioned, that then connects to the board. Im not sure what the two green wires but after unconnected them...I did not notice any difference in the performance. 








I was not successful when I tried to insert the shared link of the pic (from my dropbox) so the pic is in the body of message. So I attached the photo instead. The help links on inserting photos were dead or no longer active.

Again...many thanks!!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

There appears to be an extra board in this engine and I suspect it may have a decoder, either a 55020 or 55021 and this was 'patched' in as this engine was a 3 wire motor block and decoders need 4 wires (2 for track power and 2 for motor power).
If a mosfet shorts on the decoder then the engine would have strange performance issues. This board is located in your pix on the right hand side.


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

Hello Dan...thank you. That makes sense now.

So, from the schematic from the LGB link on this site, I see the three motor wires comes from under the board that are suppose to go to the three metal pins in the chassis, but I don't see that three wire harness under the circuit board on my engine. 


I'm making some big assumptions here. I see where the two light and the two smoke wires attach back to the original circuit board (from the schematic). I assume I need to remove the yellow wire that is soldered from the red side of the motor and connects to the DCC board. I also assume I have to figure a way to connect the red side tab from the motor back to the green identified metal pin of the three pin connector pins that are on the chassis. 

I assume the brown and the white wire that is soldered to the bottom back of the circuit board and currently goes to the DDC board will now go to the two (brown and white) of the three (White, Brown and Green) metal connectors on the chassis (the brown pin and the pin for the white wire)?

If all of the above is correct, my question is: Where do I get the third green wire from that connects to the third green colored metal pin (brown, white and green), that connects to the red side of the motor) of the three metal pins that go into the chassis?

Also....how do I remove the front steam cowl to remove the ballast so I can spray a coat of varnish on the weight?

Sorry if this is confusing as Im trying to be as clear as possible (clear as mud maybe??)

I attached pics. 
























If anyone has pics..that would be super helpful and very much appreciated!!

Thank you all again for you help!!

TG (joe)


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

From these pictures the motor has had the contact isloated for a decoder.
I need better resolution pictures to see the board better, but all you have to do is download the 55020 0r 55021 manuals to see the pin functions.

http://www.champex-linden.de/download_lgb_bedienungsanleitungen/55020.pdf 

This is a plug and play board but since there is no socket in your engione someone made up wires that have sockets to make it work.

You could just replace the decoder to get back DC and DCC operation, or remove the decoder and rewire to get DC only.


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

Hello Dan,

I understand. So I'm going to change this back to DC operation and see how the engine runs in DC mode. 

I removed the DCC board. Now that the DCC board is removed, I need to find where the green wire that was that was moved from the original circuit board to the DCC board. I did see a pic showing a green wire soldered close to the brown wire (see attached)...or does the green and brown both share the same spot on the board for DC operation?


So before I solder a green motor wire to the board and connect that to the Neg of the motor pin..can you confirm where the green wire for the motor goes on the circuit board? Here is a only pic I can find on the web and this forum with the green wire on the board that I don't have on my board. 










Here is a pic of the my board with the missing green wire which was removed for DCC?
I can see the BL and the WT etched on the circuit board..but no GR for the green wire..but from the above pic and the diagram...there is a third wire that was probably removed when the engine went to DCC. 









And as you mentioned, I need to reconnect the Red motor tab back to the White colored coded motor block pin.

I do not see a GR on my circuit board to reconnect the green wire for the motor block....any suggestions??

I did go to the site you had...but I could not find any PDF for the 55021 decoder (I can't read German).

Thanking you in advance!!
TG


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

TG. Once you have the thumbnails added to the post you can embed them into the narrative by selecting the little icon with the mountain on it to put the pic in just like you could before. Many thanks to TW John for pointing that out to me a couple of months ago.


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

fyrekop said:


> TG. Once you have the thumbnails added to the post you can embed them into the narrative by selecting the little icon with the mountain on it to put the pic in just like you could before. Many thanks to TW John for pointing that out to me a couple of months ago.


FYRE KOP....Many thanks!!!!


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## tailsgunner (Nov 18, 2015)

All - I just wired a new green wire to the brown wire and connected that to the beg motor. The engine works fine. 

I reconnected the positive motor tab and put her back to together. The engine runs smooth and slow or fast at about 45% power on a MRC 6200 60 amp transformer. The Chuff is out of sequence still (the Chuff wire is hooked up but I need to find out how to test it).

I cleaned up each gear tooth, the gearbox and sprayed the two weights with marine varnish. I also cleaned up the back of the wheels with goof off and the brushes. 









Any suggestion on what grease I should use on the gears (silicone grease?) and how to take out the boiler ballast/weight? I need to varnish that weight too!! Maybe I will start a new thread for the grease and how to remove the boiler ballast. 

My DCC chip was 55021 and I was told I need more power if I am to run a DCC layout. 

Thank you all ( especially Dan, Fyre and Greg)
TG


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