# Cutting an aristo motor block down



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I have an aristo Pacific which has served me well, but It's just too big on our layout, which has evolved into a standard gage branch line. I also have two old lionel atlantics, one refurbished and improved serving as an E6 and the other modified into a PRR H-9 consol. They're my favorite locos to run. The Pacific pulls a string of B&O heavyweights, and it's a very strong puller. 


So I'm thinking I could cut the Pacific down and make a 4-4-2 out of it. The B&O owned roughly 50 Atlantics which looked a lot like a cut down version of the Aristo Pacific, but with different domes











So I was thinking of making my Pacific into an Atlantic. I was wondering if maybe I could but the chassis down, and cut the block down,. and reassemble to to use the same mounting points. I've never tried that, and I'm wondering about the Aristo drive block--can it be cut up and then reassembled? it does not seem like gluable plastic--but is there room to screw a metal bar or plastic reinforcing plate to it? Does this seem like a feasible project? Any advice welcome


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Done it, not too difficult. Biggest problem was clearance for the lead truck. I tried to leave as much of the drive case as possible to support the boiler.

after adding extra weight, it pulled 6 aristo heavyweights on level ground.

alan





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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I was extending mine, not shortening, but you certainly have enough room to add reinforcements. I used some 1/16" x 1/4" brass bars and tapped into the block to add strength. 










You could also put a plate on each side without hitting anything.


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

How will you deal with the belpaire firebox?


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thank you all. That's very helpful. Ron, no need to deal with the Belpaire as the B&O model I'm aiming at didn't have a Belpaire firebox


There's a really easy mod you can do with a lionel atlantic and an aristo mikado, where you cut down the mikado frame and the lionel shell fits right on top. But I think I'll go for the B&O look, as I already have a PRR Atlantic model


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Here's another shot of the B&O A-3:




















And Aristo's pacific


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## Santafe 2343 (Jan 2, 2008)

*I have cut many Pacific, Mikado and Mallet motor blocks down. Just have to cut it in the right places. I have shortened them, extended they. You make the right cuts and you'll never have a problem. Letme look, I mite have one already cut, close to what you need. Thanks, Rex*


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I'm working on a similar project right now... Older Pacific morphed into an Atlantic… The drive is a pretty straight forward chop-job IMO (however I went farther than need be). I’ll post pictures of my sectioned drive. 

The ARSTO Pacific loco itself is somewhat large to model a 1:29 Atlantic. Or so I learned when scaling the two models ( I’m modeling an SP A6, shopped into #3000 Daylight). I decided a new boiler and cab were in order to get the look I was after. So I moved ahead with a 2” diameter ABS sch 40 pipe boiler and styrene from Evergreen and Plastistrut. I haven’t worked on it much of late but will share some pictures ASAP. I’m using the effort as learning tool; this model will be the first of two, this one will incorporate select bits and pieces verses a complete scratch build effort, it will be close but the rivet counters will be befuddled. 

Michael


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

A few pictures of my modified drive... I'm actually working on two drives; one is a Pacific drive overhaul and then the Atlantic drive.

I opted for bearings as the stock support is less than stellar IMO. I fabricated brass inserts with brash retaining washers that double as a source for electrical pick-up much like the stock set-up. The drivers were trued and indexed to each axle to NMRA specifications. Brass sleeves were turned and fitted to each gear/ axle coupler to allow me to set back to back wheel gauge at 39.5mm with a roll pin. I also turned some flywheels for both drives; I believe this will provide a flywheel effect. I intend to mount the new motors (more power and fan cooled) on-top of the drives coupled with o-rings and 1:1 pullies. 

I also have a direct drive 2-4-0 LGB motor block with Pacific drivers fitted, I simply adapted the drivers, although I suspect the gearing is a problem with the tall drivers... A picture will follow, have to find it. I also considered, but haven't fitted the drivers to LGB's 0-4-0 from the 20232 gearing is better due to secondary gear reduction but the drive is much taller, ecstatically its not as pleasing, more R&D.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Rex I'd be interested in what you've got, or just seeing a picture. It was your lionel atlantic to PRR consol that got me interested in this in the first place. 

Michael wow, what are you up to!?


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Lownote, 

As I noted I'm repairing/updating an old "original" ARSTO Pacific drive and the second generation ARSTO Pacific drive has been cut-down to accomadate a two axle Atlantic. Both of the drives I'm working on are from early ARSTO Pacifics (these original drives are notably different), later ARSTO came out with a third generation drive (which is the current production item). 

Michael


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

If you compare the drawings below, you'll note the Pacific is somewhat grander in apperance and size... The Atlantic drawing is a work prosess. If anyone has any input on SP's #3000 Atlantic with regard to equipment and how they were rigged and such please share.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That's a great looking Atlantic--very beefy looking, but compact. And you say you found the pacific's boiler shell to be too big for an atlantic? Too big around?


The Pacific I would be cutting down is a 3d generation drive. I should probably just start cutting, but it's a perfectly good engine as is, except it just does not look right on our layout


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

If you look at the pictures you posted of the Atlantic you’ll note the boiler diameter is smaller as compared to the Pacific’s depicted specifically at the cab-boiler intersection. Since loco cabs width is pretty standard @ 120” on most locomotives this provides a simple visual reference of the two loco’s. 

My SP A6 Atlantic is 70” at the smoke-box and at the widest cross-section its 75” diameter. The Pacific is 79” at the smoke-box and 93” at the widest cross-section. 

Michael


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Here us how I cut my motor block. 
Joel 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Features/BuildersLogs/tabid/66/EntryID/14/Default.aspx


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Rather than get the protype exactly right, it might be feasible to just do this:










Just cut the Pacific down. I kind of like that look, and it would look a bit more like the protoype if it had taller domes. Or maybe just similar height domes with a more rounded top. I'd probably also scrape off the molded-on piping and add something more realistic, and cut off that box on top of the boiler in front of the cab. I have a tender from a lionel atlantic that would fit pretty nicely. Hmmm


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, the Atlantic looks lighter than the "Heavy Pacific" Aristo modeled. I'm told it's a "B&O President Class Pacific."


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Well after much agonizing I went ahead tonight and cut the motor block down. I had to heat up the screws to get the wheels off. But once I did it was pretty easy to use a razor saw to cut the three wheel block down to two. I used epoxy and screws to reattach the mounting points on the front of the block, because I plan to use the original frame if I can. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it. 

I agonized about it a lot--the Pacific was pretty nice. But it just looks too big on eight foot curves. Now I have a non-functioning Pacific. 

I'm not sure if I'll redo the boiler, to downsize it and make it look more like the prototype, or just cut down the aristo boiler and make a fantasy heavy Atlantic. The B&O owned a lot of Atlantics, but they were never famous or celebrated. And it would surely be easy to keep the existing valve gear/cylinder arrangement intact.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Unless your a rivet counter just do it and keep on trucking. Just show us the end results. Later RJD


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