# Leveling track



## PennaRailroad1361 (Jun 19, 2012)

What is the best way to level track and add the top layer of ballast at the same time?


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## RickV (May 25, 2012)

On my newly constructed concrete track bed I plan to lay the track then ballast it and after ballasting, use both a builders spirit level and the Aristocraft track level to identify any low/uneven spots and when found then lift the track very gently while tapping the ballast/track to get it fill the gap and make the track level. 

Disclaimer: I have yet to try the above process so while it sounds good in theory I can't guarantee it will work. In saying that though, I did read in another thread here that someone did similar with the track though they had a gravel track bed rather than concrete. 

As for ballasting, so far I have just done it by hand though if you wanted to get creative you could modify a hopper wagon to have ballast chutes and do it like the 1:1 guys.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If the track is just floating in the ballast, use a small torpedo level across the rails to make sure it's level side-to-side, and a longer 24" or 48" level to check the level (or constant grade) along the length of the track. Use small piles of ballast along the way to keep things in check, then go back and dump the ballast over all of the track to top it off. I usually just brush the ballast more or less even with the tops of the rails, then go in and soak it with a hose to settle the ballast down around the track. If the ballast is particularly loose or low in spots, you can tamp the ballast down with a screwdriver or small stick. 

If the track is anchored loosely on periodic stakes or similar in the ground, you can use the same technique. If the track is securely anchored to a sub-roadbed and that's gotten twisted/out-of-level, then you've got to pull out all the ballast, untwist the sub-roadbed, re-level, and then re-ballast. 

Later, 

K


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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

I leveled my plastic BearBoard elevated ladder road bed with a borrowed Professional spinning Red Laser transit..... by David White....... 

Later final leveling & grade checks was done with a 24" long Sears Digital level..... about $40 bucks..... 

Dennis M from GBay, WI


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

You mean like this;

http://youtu.be/DBxVU6hhKwY


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I identify the low spots... then I pour ballast over the track so it covers the ties and rails.. then I reach through the ballast with 2 fingers and lift the track up while vibrating side to side a bit, you can see the ballast settle through the ties. 

Then I use a brush to clear out the excess ballast and check the level. Repeat as necessary. 

I usually hose down the ballast with a sprayer to settle it first and afterwards. I use relatively coarse ballast that is about 1/2 to 3/4 the space between the ties. This allows water to not wash it away while spraying. 

Works great. 

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

This is the way I do it.

It is a earlier post 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/9/aft/118918/afv/topic/Default.aspx


JJ


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

First off make sure you have a nice grade. Make as sooth and level as possible and use what you will be using for ballast to make a sub grade. Once the track is laid then fill the track with ballast. I use a line bubble to check for cross level when I raise the track and use a 48 inch level to check the grade for level. I raise the track by using thumb and finger to lift to level. I tamp the ballast to snug up the ties add more ballast in the cribs and then brush off with a paint brush. Make sure the cribs are full and also enough on the shoulders to help reduce track movement from side to side. Later RJD


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