# Aristocraft Mikado questions



## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

New member here with a few questions.

My dad bought an Aristocraft live steam Mikado new in 2007 or 2008 and ran it off and on for about eight years. I inherited it after he passed away suddenly in the fall of 2016. Before yesterday, I last ran it in the fall of 2016 after my dad's passing. 

When I ran it yesterday, it performed well other than steam/water coming out of the water inlet valve and not the smokestack while running. After it cooled down, I noticed that the o-ring on the water inlet valve had fallen apart. I still have the original spare o-rings/gaskets that came with it. There were two each of small black rubber o-rings, medium-sized black rubber o-rings and white harder plastic o-rings.

When I tried to run it today, it fired up and as it warmed up, steam and water came up through the water inlet valve again and it never ran today. I had tried using one of the black rubber o-rings that fit around the water inlet valve but I'm not sure if that's right.

My questions are, which gaskets are needed around that water inlet valve and is a lack of a gasket causing the water and steam to come up through the valve? If anyone has any ideas I would really appreciate it. Thanks much.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I'm not real familiar with the Aristo Mikado, yet it sounds like your describing a failure of the inlet feedwater check valve. That said can you remove the valve, and inspect it? The check valve should allow ONE way flow into the boiler and prevent water/steam from escaping the boiler.


Michael


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi New Member. Got a real name?

I assume you have a Manual for the loco. I found one here:
http://gscale.net/images/manuals/Aristo_MikadoLive_Manual.pdf



> My questions are, which gaskets are needed around that water inlet valve and is a lack of a gasket causing the water and steam to come up through the valve?


The gasket you need is the one that makes it water-tight. 

I did a Google search for "aristocraft mikado live steam inlet valve" and got lots of hits, including 3 or 4 old threads on this site. In particular, Jerry Barnes (who is on this site) has one, I think. That should give you some reading material for a few days.

To go back to the actual problem, I can merely speculate that your O-rings are too old? Or maybe the seat in the inlet is not smooth so the O-ring isn't getting a good seal. Without photos or experience that's the beat I can do for now. I'll tag Jerry Barnes and ask him to respond.

Take a look here:
https://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/15480-aristo-craft-live-steam-mikado.html
It mentions that Charles Bednarick has one - he's at Tripe R, realsteamservices.com who fix these things. He's very friendly, so drop him an email.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Are you talking about the Goodall valve to the boiler, or the large fill on top? I never use the darned thing, would tend to leak, but has not for a long time. Take it off and just fill up on top. Charles has done some work for me on the Mike(I'm for sure not an expert!)
Good source to read up on it is on the old Aristo Live Steam forum, first 20-30 pages has a lot of good info on problems folks had when it first came out. I have a section there on firing procedures, not that it is the only way!


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Hi Pete. My name is G.T. Keplinger. 

I do have the manual and really everything that came with the Mikado when it was bought new. I was with my dad when he bought it. I see you live in Annapolis. I'm in Towson. My dad bought the Mikado as well as a set of Aristocraft B&O heavyweight passenger cars and some freight cars at Star Hobby.

I also did quite a bit of Google searching before posting about the issue I'm having and wasn't really able to find any definitive answers. Thanks for the links and info. I will follow up with the links and people you mention. (It made me remove the links before I could post-- I got this error message "To be able to post links or images your post count must be greater. You currently have 1 posts.")

I took some pictures of the specific "water inlet valve" (maybe that's not the correct term for it?) and a video of the train running where you can see the steam coming out of the water inlet. I will attempt to share them in response to another response below.



Pete Thornton said:


> Hi New Member. Got a real name?
> 
> I assume you have a Manual for the loco. I found one here:
> 
> ...


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Thanks for the response.

Not that Goodall valve. I've never used that either. That seems to be a little much. It's the large fill on top.

I took some pictures of the valve in question and the o-rings that came with it when it was new and had hoped to share them here but it won't let me.

("To be able to post links or images your post count must be greater. You currently have 2 posts.") Do you know how many posts I need to make before I can share links to images?

I also took a video of it running with steam coming up through the valve.

I posted them on my Flickr site.

I will check out that Aristo Live Steam Forum. Do you have a link by chance?




Jerry Barnes said:


> Are you talking about the Goodall valve to the boiler, or the large fill on top? I never use the darned thing, would tend to leak, but has not for a long time. Take it off and just fill up on top. Charles has done some work for me on the Mike(I'm for sure not an expert!)
> Good source to read up on it is on the old Aristo Live Steam forum, first 20-30 pages has a lot of good info on problems folks had when it first came out. I have a section there on firing procedures, not that it is the only way!


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

I think that's it exactly. I tried replacing the o-ring but I must not have done it properly. It's a spring-loaded valve mechanism with a small o-ring and a nut on the threaded shaft.



Michael Glavin said:


> I'm not real familiar with the Aristo Mikado, yet it sounds like your describing a failure of the inlet feedwater check valve. That said can you remove the valve, and inspect it? The check valve should allow ONE way flow into the boiler and prevent water/steam from escaping the boiler.
> 
> 
> Michael


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi G.T.,
I know nothing about this locomotive, but with a threaded rod, it sounds more like it's a safety valve.
If it is, I would recommend NOT playing with that unless you know what you are doing.
Can you give us a link to your Flickr photo.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Aristo set up the Goodall valve on the Mikado to do double-duty as a secondary safety valve. It seems ironic to me that they would go through all the trouble to redirect the escaping steam from the primary safety downwards because they're afraid steam escaping upwards in the usual way might cause injury, and then design a Goodall valve that could spontaneously blast your fingers with steam just as you're getting ready to push the pump bottle hose into it. I tightened the nut on mine as far as it would go, so it won't release steam unless the pressure gets ridiculously high.


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

I do believe it's a pressure relief safety valve and I'm not sure how to assemble it properly. The original o-ring was dry rotted and it fell apart in pieces when I removed the valve to add water. I took it apart and put in a new o-ring, that was pliable, but it's still allowing steam to escape even at low-pressure readings on the pressure gauge.

My photos and video can be found at:

www_dot_flickr_dot_com/photos/[email protected]/shares/b42397

(Complete with my dog barking at the Mikado and my wife and kids heard in the background...)





David Leech said:


> Hi G.T.,
> I know nothing about this locomotive, but with a threaded rod, it sounds more like it's a safety valve.
> If it is, I would recommend NOT playing with that unless you know what you are doing.
> Can you give us a link to your Flickr photo.
> ...


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

First answer is that you have to do 10 posts to become approved for posting photos, I think. So go fill up some other threads with comments like "deleted" 
Second problem is that this site has photo posting problems, and Flickr does not allow you to reference photos externally, I believe. Hmmm. . 









As the file system disappeared, we had to find work-arounds. Here's one:
https://forums.mylargescale.com/32-...ing-pictures-without-your-1stclass-space.html 

Having nothing much better to do, I'll transfer your photos to a Gallery (another way to store/post photos.)

Not sure what to do about the video. Maybe this will work:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/49806236833/in/shares-b42397/


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

OK. Gallery GT442 now exists.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

rwjenkins said:


> Aristo set up the Goodall valve on the Mikado to do double-duty as a secondary safety valve. It seems ironic to me that they would go through all the trouble to redirect the escaping steam from the primary safety downwards because they're afraid steam escaping upwards in the usual way might cause injury, and then design a Goodall valve that could spontaneously blast your fingers with steam just as you're getting ready to push the pump bottle hose into it. I tightened the nut on mine as far as it would go, so it won't release steam unless the pressure gets ridiculously high.


Curious. I don't understand how a Goodall valve that is closed by steam pressure could function as a safety, which opens at high pressure. The two functions seem contradictory?
RW - which is the nut you refer to? The smaller one on the center shaft/pipe?

G.T. - I suspect the spring keeping your water inlet valve closed is rusty or has failed. While you are looking for a new one, or figuring how to take it apart, measure across the screw threads. There are lots of them (Goodall Valves) available with am M5 thread; that's 5mm across.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Can't you slide some rubbeer tubing across that hole in the stem?


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Pete,

Thanks for sharing my photos. At the rate I'm going, I'll be able to share links soon. Here are two more photos I just took of it disassembled:

www_dot_flickr_dot_com/photos/[email protected]/shares/7di46V

The spring is totally fine. The nut is in the picture. 

Maybe it wasn't the black rubber o-ring that had failed but instead, there was a clear rubber tube covering the shaft with the hole above the threads that had fallen apart? I wish I'd paid more attention to it years ago.

I had reassembled the valve with the black rubber o-ring down inside of the brass fitting and the threaded shaft up through the brass fitting from the other side with the spring inside the brass fitting on the shaft and the nut tightened down. I wish I had the correct nomenclature for all of the parts/pieces.




Pete Thornton said:


> Curious. I don't understand how a Goodall valve that is closed by steam pressure could function as a safety, which opens at high pressure. The two functions seem contradictory?
> RW - which is the nut you refer to? The smaller one on the center shaft/pipe?
> 
> G.T. - I suspect the spring keeping your water inlet valve closed is rusty or has failed. While you are looking for a new one, or figuring how to take it apart, measure across the screw threads. There are lots of them (Goodall Valves) available with am M5 thread; that's 5mm across.


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Maybe that's what it's missing that had broken apart and not the o-ring?



Jerry Barnes said:


> Can't you slide some rubbeer tubing across that hole in the stem?


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

It IS the clear silicon tube that make the seal for the Goodall part of the valve to work.
As you add water from above, the tube swells up and lets the water enter the boiler, and when you stop pumping it contracts and make the seal again.
It will just leak without it.
Stay safe,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

G.T.


Perhaps the "clear rubber tube" is the safety valve feature mentioned, i.e., a specific pressure and or temperature causes the clear rubber tube to fail and allow steam to escape.


Michael


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael Glavin said:


> G.T.
> 
> Perhaps the "clear rubber tube" is the safety valve feature mentioned, i.e., a specific pressure and or temperature causes the clear rubber tube to fail and allow steam to escape.
> 
> Michael


Yep, that might answer my confusion!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I'll be able to share links soon. Here are two more photos I just took of it disassembled:
> 
> www_dot_flickr_dot_com/photos/[email protected]/shares/7di46V


First, Re: pics. You don't need to change the flickr link - just paste it as-is. You could also try copying your photos into that Gallery GT442 that I set up. I think they are public.















> The spring is totally fine. The nut is in the picture.
> 
> Maybe it wasn't the black rubber o-ring that had failed but instead, there was a clear rubber tube covering the shaft with the hole above the threads that had fallen apart? I wish I'd paid more attention to it years ago.
> 
> I had reassembled the valve with the black rubber o-ring down inside of the brass fitting and the threaded shaft up through the brass fitting from the other side with the spring inside the brass fitting on the shaft and the nut tightened down. I wish I had the correct nomenclature for all of the parts/pieces.


Given that it has a spring, that might explain the 'safety valve' piece of it. If the head of the central hollow shaft is resting on the black sealing washer and the spring is holding the head onto the washer with the nut on the spring - that's a safety valve.












(The brass fitting needs one of the larger white plastic washers to seal it in the boiler, as in your previous picture.)

That hole in the side of the central shaft does look like a Goodall valve and could be tightly covered by a piece of silicon tube. They do split after a while, so it is possibly in the bottom of your boiler, in pieces!

Here's how a Goodall valve works (kudos to David):










But that leaves an open question, which maybe you can answer for us. That hole in the side of the central tube that we think should be covered with a silicon tube: where does it lead? Where is the other end of it?

Or to state my question functionally: If the central tube is pressing hard on the black sealing washer, then how does water get into the central tube to emerge in the boiler through the hole under the silicon?


P.S. Silicon tube is available for fuel pipes on model aircraft/car gas engines. You buy it from the r/c store.


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

The valve functions as a two part unit. The center of that stainless steel valve stem is hollow bored straight down to the cross hole, so it functions as any other goodall valve would. 

The slotted head of the shaft sits atop a o-ring seal, which is pulled down from below by the spring and nut assembly, which makes a safety valve (albeit a crude one). 

In addition to what Pete said above, there should be a piece of stainless (or brass) wire through that lower hole in the base of the valve stem. 

That will hold the goodall tubing (1/16" ID aircraft silicone fuel tubing works fine) in place and prevent it from being shot down into the boiler when the pump bottle is used. 

The stack works like this:
Valve stem comes down from top of valve
O-ring under the valve stem head (silver threaded shaft with holes)
Spring and nut from bottom of valve body
Tubing on shaft with cross hole
Wire stopper on bottom cross hole.

Will take a photo of an assembly if that helps


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Thanks so much.

This is really helpful. The rubber tube must have broken into pieces and unfortunately, most of it is inside the boiler now. The little piece of wire/cotter pin is also inside the boiler now. I will need to make or find a replacement unless I can get it out of the boiler.

I will see about finding a piece of that tubing as well. A picture would be very helpful.

It is not the fill valve that allows you to fill the boiler while warm though. It's the regular boiler fill that you can only open when cold.

IMG_7863 by G.T. Keplinger, on Flickr

It's the one on the right in the above photo. The "goodall" valve is the one on the left unless the other valve is also technically a goodall valve.






rbednarik said:


> The valve functions as a two part unit. The center of that stainless steel valve stem is hollow bored straight down to the cross hole, so it functions as any other goodall valve would.
> 
> The slotted head of the shaft sits atop a o-ring seal, which is pulled down from below by the spring and nut assembly, which makes a safety valve (albeit a crude one).
> 
> ...


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Not as such. The one on the left in that photo is the primary safety valve. There should be a cap on it (assume it's removed for the photo)which routes the venting steam down through the copper pipes astride the boiler. 

The hole on the right is for the part in question earlier. That is the Goodall valve and also has a secondary feature of a backup pressure relief valve, should the primary fail to vent enough steam or function properly. 

Don't worry about the tube and cotter pin/wire loop being in the boiler. They are inert in this case and the wire will settle to the bottom of the boiler without issue. The tubing will not harm anything. 

A cotter pin will do OK to replace the original safety wire, but beware you need a stainless steel one or it will rust with time. 

Unless the tubing is replaced, the double function goodall/safety valve will continue to leak steam from the goodall portion of the valve, regardless of the tension on the spring for the safety valve spindle. 

Pictures of how it should look forthcoming.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> The center of that stainless steel valve stem is hollow bored straight down to the cross hole, so it functions as any other goodall valve would.


So it's a Goodall valve inside a safety, so it can bounce up if there's enough pressure. Amazing.


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Thanks again for the advice and help. I went to a local RC Hobby Shop near me yesterday and they gave me some short pieces of tubing in two diameters and I bought some piano wire. I know it will rust but it's working for now until I can get some stainless wire. Here's a picture of the rebuilt valve and a video of the Mikado running. It made all the difference in the world.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/49822630068/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/49823164636/in/dateposted-public/




rbednarik said:


> Not as such. The one on the left in that photo is the primary safety valve. There should be a cap on it (assume it's removed for the photo)which routes the venting steam down through the copper pipes astride the boiler.
> 
> The hole on the right is for the part in question earlier. That is the Goodall valve and also has a secondary feature of a backup pressure relief valve, should the primary fail to vent enough steam or function properly.
> 
> ...


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Excellent work! You'll want to cut the tube just a little shorter so it isn't up in the threaded section. Otherwise, it'll start to leak past there eventually.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good. It almost made me think of buying one - I know where there are 3 for sale for $650 each.




> I bought some piano wire. I know it will rust


Almost anything will stop the tube falling off. A brass rod, small brass nut-and-bolt, brass strip, etc.


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

That's a good price. I might be tempted to buy another one. 

I know the B&O had 100 of them.



Pete Thornton said:


> Looks good. It almost made me think of buying one - I know where there are 3 for sale for $650 each.
> 
> 
> 
> Almost anything will stop the tube falling off. A brass rod, small brass nut-and-bolt, brass strip, etc.


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## gt442 (Apr 18, 2020)

Thanks again for the tip. I will trim it a little bit before I run it again. My kids were asking me to run it again today. Maybe tomorrow.



rbednarik said:


> Excellent work! You'll want to cut the tube just a little shorter so it isn't up in the threaded section. Otherwise, it'll start to leak past there eventually.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> That's a good price. I might be tempted to buy another one.


There are some 0-4-0s too.


https://forums.mylargescale.com/138-live-steam/90126-peter-k-s-revised-list-1-new-2-a.html


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

Jerry Barnes said:


> Good source to read up on it is on the old Aristo Live Steam forum, first 20-30 pages has a lot of good info on problems folks had when it first came out. I have a section there on firing procedures, not that it is the only way!


Jerry, can you please tell me how to access these first 20-30 pages. I have signed up for that forum even though it is pretty quiet these day, but I cannot figure out how to access the older posts that you refer to. Thanks, Jim


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

yellow_cad said:


> can you please tell me how to access these first 20-30 pages.


I haven't looked at the pages forever, but most forums let you read but not post if you are not signed up. I don't think registration works these days on Aristo. I just went to the forum:
Aristo-Craft Trains Forum
Then to the Live Steam forum:
Aristo-Craft Trains Forum - Live Steam
and it lets you choose which page you want, starting with #1 (latest.) I picked #36 and got back to 2005!

I noticed you posted. I doubt anyone will answer, but you never know! We mostly use it for reference, as Jerry suggests.


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

Thanks Pete, but for the life of me I cannot see where to select the various pages. I am logged in to that forum and in live steam and all, but I do not see that. Could you please tell me where it is on the page and what it looks like? Jim


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

try the internet wayback machine?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

yellow_cad said:


> for the life of me I cannot see where to select the various pages.


I'll bet you are using one of those new-fangled mobile devices. When the Aristo forum was in operation, it was long before they started to make the pages auto-width.

This is what I see below the MyBB header and search box. The red arrow points to the "Pages" which I can select as they are all links. P.36 is the oldest and full of posts anticipating the arrival of the Mikado.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete,
I was never a member and when I go to the link I am stopped. The page I get has the forum software logo and the only option is to sign up or login. So your link does not hep for people who never signed up.

Sorry, hope it clears up the confusion


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, if you cannot log in, you are stuck.

Don't know if they allow new users.

I guess you did not try the "internet wayback machine", just a suggestion, not sure it will work.

Greg


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

Pete, I am logged in and I am on my full size computer and I am on the page you show and everything is the same except where your's says pages ...., mine says Post Thread and with it I can post, but I have no option for viewing archive pages.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Pete's post is at the "head" of the live steam forum.

If you are "down" into a topic, you won't see all those pages, because you are already a step "deeper" into the forum, at a specific topic...

go to the root of the live steam forum...

pick one of the older pages (like 36)

then you see the posts.. then clicking on a post will enter the topic/thread..

maybe we need a set of links for various threads/topics... *so what exactly are you looking for?* I think you might be able to search... otherwise you will have to browse to find a topic of interest.

Search works... just tried it...

Greg


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

I put in page 36 in the search and it doesn't give me anything.


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

If you look closely, Pete is in the Live Steam forum as am I, but they don't look exactly the same as I stated above.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

uhh, you _searched _for "36"? ....... you *click *on the page numbers, also I think search does not work on only 2 characters...

I looked closely, I don't see you posted a picture showing you are on the Live Steam forum, please do a screenshot like Pete did. I get what Pete gets.

Greg


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

What is the process for doing a screen shot?


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

Help
 *Welcome back, yellow_cad*. You last visited: Today, 01:19 PM Log Out

User CP
View New Posts
View Today's Posts
Private Messages (Unread 0, Total 0)
Aristo-Craft Trains Forum › Aristo-Craft Trains General Forum







Live Steam Forum
Moderated By: *Jonathan Polk*
Users browsing this forum: yellow_cad*


*Live Steam Forum - Rules*

Post Thread

*Mark this forum read | Subscribe to this forum
Live Steam Forum**Thread / Author*



Couldn't do a screenshot so I did a cut and paste and this is what mine looks like. Jim


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There is an asterisk after your name. That may just indicate you are online.

How many posts have you made? The asterisk might mean you are sill limited.

Did you go into the user control panel (CP)?

you are listed as a junior member, perhaps you have to be a member longer or more posts.

please try a different browser and turn off all of your popup blockers and security filters...

Greg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

yellow_cad said:


> option for viewing archive pages.


They aren't archive pages. They are the pages of the "Live Steam Forum". (Try a different browser. If you are using Chrome, try MS Edge.)



Greg Elmassian said:


> so what exactly are you looking for?


Greg, way back a few posts, someone suggested he read the first couple of pages about the live steam Mikado. That's all he's trying to do, I think.

As my pal just bought one, I may have to read it myself. . . I wondered if it was worth trying to produce a PDF print-out, but I don't see any easy way.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

yellow_cad said:


> I did a cut and paste and this is what mine looks like. Jim


Interesting. Maybe it is a quirk of your browser, or a recent action. I don't know when I signed up but it may have been a long time ago. . .

When I click the Aristo-Craft Trains General Forum link in your paste, it takes me to the usual forum list, and I select Live Steam and this comes up:

Aristo-Craft Trains Forum › Aristo-Craft Trains General Forum







Live Steam Forum

Moderated By: *Jonathan Polk*
Users browsing this forum: Fred2179


*Live Steam Forum - Rules*


Pages (36): 1 2 3 4 5 … 36 Next » 



 
*Mark this forum read | Subscribe to this forum * 

*Live Steam Forum*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I get the same thing as Pete, using FireFox on a pc


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

I will work with trains all day long, but I have no desire to go past the very basics on the computer, but thanks for the help. I'll just go without seeing those pages. I have learned much to do with this locomotive and others on this forum and I appreciate that.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, I'm also not computer savvy, I found can learn quite a bit by just observing and making mistakes, and can ask anything you want right here. This forum has quite a few very knowledgable live steamers. Can easily tell the one 's who are just making noise.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm working on a couple of projects right now, to archive information that has gone missing.

The extensive threads on the Aristo Mikado are indeed on the Aristo site, and that is a target. It would have helped Nick, since it took him a while to rip out the stupid regulator, which is normally step 1 for an Aristo Mikado. There also a lot on water bath mods, usually #2 modification. (I have a close friend that was in the thick of this years ago)

Another "rescue" planned is the extensive pages on Big Hauler information, mods, fitting replacement chassis by "Loco Bill" on the defunct Bachmann site.

Lastly I think it is time to archive George Schreyer's site, I'm afraid it will disappear at any time, and it is a "must have".

In the short term, as I "unearth" the old LS Aristo Mike pages, I'll announce them, and I'll watch for your questions Jim.

Greg


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## yellow_cad (Oct 30, 2020)

That would be fantastic Greg. Thanks for all your effort.


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