# Custom wye build



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Started this project in August 08.. Finally got to the end and have some pics.

I wanted to finish the southern end of my yard so I could make progress on trackwork and a tunnel to the hill section. Need to close the passing siding to the left, and extend the passing siding on the right another couple of metres. 

Started by bending a couple of 5 footers to the right line, then traced the rail heads onto 3 A3 sheets taped together.






















After separating the rails from the tie strips I used the tracing to fine tune the shapes of the rail, and to mark up the cedar ties.






















Lesson learned from an earlier mistake: Remember to lay the ties out on the opposite[/b] side of the tracing to the rails – else your LH turnout suddenly becomes a RH one.. The strip bracing is bradded in place with 18g galv pins.

And yes, I had to tidy up the workbench to make space.. (that took half a day)

Setting up the frog was a bit tricky. I ended up marking the angle of the cut on each rail using the other as the guide then clamping the rail to a couple of blocks and (carefully) cutting along the line with a 4” disc grinder. The head of the rail is sitting in a groove to steady the work in the photo below.











After cutting I filed the two frog rails clean then lightly spiked them in place through the tracing to a piece of scrap wood. The tracing was then removed, spikes tightened and the join soldered.





















After that it was time to play the ‘spike the rails’ game…




















Points were shaped using a belt sander clamped in a vice.





















Sorry no clearer pics of the points. If you look not so closely you can see where I cut the stock rails too far back. Ah well..

So now its summer and I finally installed it!































In the last two photos you can see the far left rail has been removed – its waiting on the work bench for a much improved turnout creation to complete this bit of track work.

Hope you’ve enjoyed.

Cheers
Neil


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

This is a really great and informative thread. Thanks for posting it.

Your switch looks great


----------



## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Neil. Looks good. Do you think you will need to redo the stock rails that you undercut to much? Later RJD


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Sweet!


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work, Neil!


----------



## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Neil, superb work! You make it look easy. Question, do you run battery power? Your frog doesn't seem to be isolated for track power? 

I like how you ground the stock rails back so the point slide tight against them. I also like your rail spacer tool used for spiking. Did you make it yourself?


----------



## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

Neil, fantastic as usual. Your craftsmanship is second to none. I see you are really enjoying your Train-Li track bender.


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm going to echo JJ's comments. This _is _an extremely interesting and informative thread! The craftsmanship is excellent and I can't wait for the next installment!


----------



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Thanks guys, always glad to read your responses.

RJD Probably not. I drilled the foot of the rails in several places where I can’t spike on both sides so the spikes hold the rails horizontally as well as vertical. I’m hoping this will be enough. Otherwise its more of a visual thing which doesn’t worry me too much. Also a 5’ piece of track is now $80 ea locally so not really inclined to lash out unless I need to. (But yeah, I really should..)

Jimtyp Actually I forgot about this as I built it. Too much of a rush to see it in place. See the post install fix for creating a dead frog below.. J










I run track power on the bottom loop but am about to take the plunge and go battery this year (mainly to do with cleaning grunge off the track). So, no more frogs to kill after this bit.. 

The rail spacer is home made, 3mm Al sheet with grooves cut out at 45mm ID to match the rail head width. One problem is they fall over as they’re top heavy. These ones will be getting a lowering job soon and the next generation will be made of angle stock. Should probably build in guard rail spacing as well while I’m at it.










Next one is almost ready..


















Cheers
Neil


----------



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Super, fun ah???


----------



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Very, very nice!


----------



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 01/15/2009 3:42 PM
Super, fun ah???



Yep, sure is..









Second turnout is in at last.











I spent a bit more time getting the frog and guard rails right this time, I’ve been pretty much bashing this bit up till now and hoping for the best (so far so good..) Eventually the engineer part of me won.

I stumbled across a conductor spec at work for 19/.101 copper. Hunted around in the scrap bin - sur’nuf, they made it like they said.











So, now I can space the wing rails where they’re supposed to be a bit more easily.











After trimming and shaping the wing rails I drilled the foot of the rail for each tie, then tinned the ends and the closure rails. Carefully laid them in place using the spacers and applied heat and a bit more solder.




















Used the same spacing for the guard rails..











Good results so far, rolling stock with correct back to back run through smooth as.












I’m waiting to see if the wing rails hold up with just solder and spikes. Time will tell I guess.. They haven’t exactly seen a lot of traffic – the track ends just through the tunnel.

I might need to add some epoxy around the base of the frog if they get loose with time. Also a remote throw..!

Cheers
Neil


----------



## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

Neil are you using regular solder on the frogs? if so they make a low temp silver solder that is many times stronger than regular solder and you wouldn't have to worry about the solder not being strong enough.


----------



## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice switches.







I see that you have plastic pipe where the track goes. Are you attaching your track to that? If so how well has it been working for you?

Terl


----------



## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a thought, could you not tack two of the track gages and solder a small rod to connect two of them together so they would not fall over. Turnout really looks good. Later RJD


----------



## Joe Mascitti (Oct 30, 2008)

That switch really looks good...


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Excellent work! It's looking great!


----------



## AndyC (Jan 2, 2008)

Neil, that's truely some fantastic work on the switches... And from the outside pictures, your layout looks to be nicely built also... 

Andy


----------



## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

Beautiful switch work Neil, 
Nice job, 
Don


----------



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Yeah, I'm using regular solder Barry. From your suggestion and a couple of other threads looks like I should track some silver solder down. Thanks.

Terl, The track is attached for about 30' or 40' of the 100' loop, screwed every 5 to 6 feet or where it looked right. That was the first section I did but then I ran out of the screws I was using. They were black pan heads and blended nicely. After that I plumb kept forgetting to get more so the rest of the loop ended up floating. 

The attached part doesn't see much sun, so not too much stress on the track/roadbed. No issues with movement of the track in that part, and the crusher fines are holding up well. I used steel reo and wire ties to hold the conduit to them.

The unattached section is in full sun and expansion pushes 1 corner out of the ballast regularly. Not sure what would be the effect if it was attached. Since I used a dual bender one side of the rail has the screws removed to make it easier to shape so maybe not a lot...?

Hope thats of some use.

Cheers
Neil


----------



## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Neil 

I've used the plastic pipe on my railroad and have had sun kinking problems because the plastice pipe expands more with the heat than the track. If its working for you I would recommend that you just keep with the track floating in the sunny sections. 

By the way I really like your landscaping. Have you posted more pictures of your layout? If not, please do when you get a chance. 

Terl


----------



## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Thanks Terl.

I had one section where the conduit was exposed in full sun for a week tied to the conduit with no fines to hold it in place. It warped to the point where there was no point in trying to attach the track at all. Where I put fines in at the same time there was no problem, the conduit stayed straight and flat. The track is floating on that bit.

I've actually got a hare brained scheme to pour a concrete bed around the conduit on the rest so there is an easy attachment for the track, using something like JJ's wire ties but differing expansion rates is something I need to think about. I used this method in the tunnels but since there's no sun it should all be the same temp. Maybe a trial section..?

Will try to do an update soon, having too much fun outside.







Trestle has been going in over the last couple of weekends and a bit more rock work today..

Cheers
Neil


----------



## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been using small blocks of wood attached to the plastice pipe to hold the track level.










See my flexible spine system.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/9/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/59569/Default.aspx#59569

The big advantage to that is that there is some side to side adjusment installing the track and because the heads of the sheet rock screws bear force directly on the rail instead of transferring it through the plastic tie, the track holds up better. I have had rail strip out of the tie especially with Aristorcraft standard gauge ties.

I have also been attaching ties to the pvc pipe with soft iron tie wire. No need to twist the wire, just bend a 90 degree bend over the tie is sufficient to hold it in place and still gives a little possibility for side to side adjustment.

I have also considered putting concrete around the plastic pipe. The big plus would be to give a level surface for your track and the weight of the concrete would hold the track in the ballast. I just haven't tried it yet. Even if the concrete cracks it may still provide a stable enough surface. If you're more hare brained than me







, then by all means try it as I would be really interested in how it works







. It'll be atleast 2 or 3 months befor I can do serious trackwork outside, as we are still with winter weather here in Colorado.

In my latest experiment I have put foam board over the pvc pipe to provide a level surface for the track. You can just make out wire bent over the ties to hold it in place.










Terl


----------



## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Neil 

I look forward to photos of your trestle. 

Terl


----------

