# Painting an UNDEC, custom decals, and more



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I am a happy camper today. I have acquired a new UNDECorated USA S4. The problam is....what do I do now???

1 - I haven't been able to find any "how to paint your loco" books. Can anyone point me to a source? 

2 - I have air tools in the garage. Would it make sense to use that (medium size) compressor for delicate G scale work? I don't expect to do more than just occasional painting of this nature.

3 - What should I look for in an airbrush?

And - the question that has me totally clueless..............

4 - I found a font on my PC that I'd like to use for lettering on my loco (obviously not Times New Roman). Is there some way to make one's own decals, using an inkjet printer or some other approach? I have a large collection of rub-on lettering, but I really like this particular font.

5 - Why is it so hard to find any UNDEC anything? In HO you can get everything in plain grey, but it's rare in G. Since the price is the same, why would I want to have to always remove the Santa Fe warbonnet first?

This feels like a kids party game. Blindfold me, spin me around three times, then point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
jack


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There isn't an easy way to make your own decals. This is especially true is you want to print white. There are films that will go through a printer with a sticky back. These work, but they aren't the best for long term use. If you print the outline you want, you can then hand paint the fill within the outline. 

The best solution is to contact the people who sponsor some of the forums here on MLS. I have used Stan Cedarleaf and was very pleased with the decals that he produced. We worked on some custom decals and everything worked out well. If you go to this thread and scroll through it you will see the original cars and later modifications. I wanted DM&IR, but the only cars I could get were Pennsylvania. Working with Stan I got some very excellent decals to get the look that I wanted.


DM&IR decals 

Chuck N


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Jack, 

I don't have am answer for 1. 

The compressor you have will do just fine for any work you may wish to do on G scale models. You will need to have a good dryer to take any moisture out of the air to keep your paint clean. You will need a good filter to take any dirt particles out, and a good regulator to reduce the pressure to something in the 5-15 psi range. 

As for an airbrush, I don't have a particular recommendation. Badger and Pasche are the two most common available at the local hobby shops. There is a new one by Grex I have seen some good reviews on. Single or double action is up to you and your wallet. 

There are several companies that make water slide decal paper for ink jet and laser printers. If your lettering is going to be in white, your only real option is Stan Cedarleaf or commercial decals. To my knowledge there is no printer currently on the market that has white ink cartridges available. You may also look into a company in Canada, All-out Graphics that make dry transfers. Also on this forum look for G Scale Graphics, Del makes vinyl lettering. 

Aristo Craft makes undec motive power and rolling stock, although you may have to order direct from them or custom order from your local hobby shop. Bachmann in their Spectrum line also makes undec motive power. They also make undec rolling stock in the Spectrum line and bare kits in the Big Hauler line. 

Hope this helps some. 

Bob C.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Krylon cans are your best bet, I think.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Thanks, guys, for all this information in just a couple hours.

I knew I'd seen some mention on myLS.com about someone who did decals, etc. but I've been trying to read everything on the site so it's become something of a blur. I'll definitely look him up.

Krylon cans sounds good, but I doubt I'd find the colors I'm thinking of.

In case anyone would find this as helpful as I did, there's someone on eBay selling a CD called "Paint Shed" that works with Microsoft Train Simulator (you need to have Train Simulator to use it). Paint Shed has templates of rolling stock that you can try different paint schemes on. I got it for $0.01 plus $3.70 shipping. I just tossed on a few colors, then revised a few times, and came up with something that I think I might actually like. It'll be 3-4 months til the snow melts, so I'll probably change my mind a dozen times, but it's easier to change on the monitor than in reality. Wonder what color scheme I'll end up with next summer.

This probably should've been my next question:
7 - When painting the new R4, how do I mask things off? I doubt standard masking tape will be fine enough to cover the details in G scale. Does someone make a superfine masking tape? I've never had a very steady hand, so freehand is definitely not going to work for me. And what do I use to wash the plastic before the first coat? I've never had a very steady hand, so freehand is definitely not going to work for me.

Again, thanks for all the help.

jack


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

1) Don't know of any books off the top of my head. Mac McCalla may have written one. I know he frequently does clinics on airbrushing. I did a series in Garden Railways early last year(?) on repainting locos which may be helpful. 

2) So long as you can control the output pressure, sure. I don't use any fancy filters or such on mine, but I live in a dry climate so moisture isn't an issue. (I also don't use it enough to where I'm anything but lucky if it works as advertised.) 

3) I like the Grex one if you're going to be doing a lot of airbrushing. If I were "serious" about getting to use the medium, that's where I'd go. Right now, I've got a basic Badger airbrush that works adequately for my purposes (i.e, ham-handed painting of equipment when I can't find a spray paint in the right color.) 

4) There are ways to make your own decals. If you're serious about doing this often, you can buy an ALPS printer (no longer manufacturerd, but you can find them on evilbay or buy new-old-stock printers from Japan). There's also a new device called the YuDu that's sold at Michaels, etc. It's basically a do-it-yoursel screen printing system that lets you start with artwork printed from your computer. It's probably far more cost effective to do the artwork on your computer then e-mail it to any of the custom decal makers for them to print out for you. (Stan Cedarleaf advertises here.) 

5) That, I haven't a clue. Bachmann sells undecorated kits, and maybe(?) Aristo sells undecorated--grey--diesels, I'm not sure. It's more common to have painted, but unlettered equipment. I agree, for diesals, it makes sense to offer them in unpainted for those who have their own paint schemes. 

Later, 

K


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

Jack, 

To answer some of your questions:

1. Your air compressor will work fine for you. You must be able to step the pressure down to 25 PSI, depending on the type of paint you use. 

2. An undercoat is always desireable.

3. You have said that you have a paint scheme in mind. As long as it isn't too complicated, draw it out to see if it is exactly what you want. The masking is easy. Regular brown or tan masking tape is usually too tacky for some paints. I use "Drafting Tape" for the actual separation of colors then back it up with regular masking tape and a paper mask. Just remember to push the tape into the details well before painting. Another trick is to paint a coat of the color you are masking off over the tape and let it dry before putting on the next color. 

4. As to decals, if you want white in the lettering, I would try Stan Cedarleaf. He just might have your prefered font on hand.

5. As to colors, and Krylon, I prefer to use paints mixed for the actual RR colors, brands like Floquil and Scale Coat. I try to stay away from rattle cans, as I can't control them as well as with an air brush. This is my humble opinion only. If rattle cans work for you, then go for it.

6. Don't forget to disassemble the model before painting. This is a must for details and paint control.

7. As for type of airbrush, what ever works for you and your pocket book is what is best for you. I use both double and single phase Paasche brushes. It depends on what I am doing. If I am painting wide areas, I use the single phase one. For more detailed work, I use the double phase. Badger makes a good air brush too and it is easier on the pocket book.

Good luck with your project.


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

As to what to wash your model in, plain old dish soap and plenty of clear clean water works, just make sure it is well rinsed off and do not handle it with your bare hands. Use an old (or new) tooth brush to scrub with. Use the cheapy rubber gloves from the drug store after it is clean. Let the model air dry thoroughly before trying to paint.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

I make my own inkjet decals. Black lettering on light paint backgrounds come out well - 










Here is an old thread on it - http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...C_ID=49658 

As said above if you are doing white or light lettering make up a sheet and send it out or pick up an Alps printer. I was told there is a seller on eBay that does a first class job of refurbishing old ones to like new. The supply of printer supplies has been increasing too. 

-Brian


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

As a side note - you can find many neat fonts free online - 

http://www.webpagepublicity.com/fre...#FreeFonts 

http://borhs.org/Logos/bo_font_logo.html 

http://www.1001freefonts.com/ 

-Brian


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have been custom painting locomotives for over 30 years. I got out of it because there was always a loco to paint left by UPS and I did not have time to enjoy my own. 
All the tips above are excellent. I used to was my body shells in the dishwasher (top rack no heated dry) when my wife was at work. I have stood by Floquil paints forever because they mix to match the real railroad colors, and they grind their pigment so finely that it is actually a better covering paint than some others. I use Bader air brushes, but what you can afford is the final determining factor. Compressor should be at 25 PSI. You WILL need a moisture filter. My next piece of advice is practice practice practice before you aim at your model. I alwas shoot at a black painted soda or beer can before I try and spray my models. Undercoat is essential, especially if you are painting a light colored finish coat over a black body shell. Decals NEED to be applied over a gloss finish. I have always had luck with Testor's Glosscoat. My finish and decal sealing coat is either Testor's Dullcoat or Floquil flat. I have ordered decals from Stan and have been very impressed with his work. He even did an oak tree in white for my Live Oak and Northern 1:20.3 caboose for the Sundance Central.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Jack 

Maybe I over looked this, but make sure you paint the inside of the shell black so the lights from inside don't light up the plastic all around the lights. 

I also think Krylon is the best way to go if you can find the color you want. Go online to Krylon.com to see if they have what you want. Then call around. 

Wal-Mart sells Krylon here in Florida but some of the industrial colors might have to come from a hardware store. Watch using some spray can paints as they can damage the plastic and don't mix brands of paint. 

Good luck 

Randy


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Most of your questions have been answered here but: 

3) Look for top or gravity feed airbrush. You may have to pour paint several times to cover a large scale model, but that is easy to do and the things are easy to clean. I've used a Badger 100G for many years with good results. Badger also makes one now that is called a "Universal 360." The whole end of the brush rotates to allow it to be both a gravity feed brush and to be a bottom feeder from a bottle. This one also tends to clog less at the tip than some other brushes. 

However, there are MANY kinds of airbrushes, most of them are good.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Is a UNDEC car that important? You can change the scheme of any piece of rolling stock your self. What is the differance between a UNDEC and a car you got as a bargin and repainting it?

I got one of these ( Scroll down some to see picture)

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

I thought of Stencils. I have not finished researching a machine that makes small stencils. It may be kind of pricy. 

I play on re painting all my engines once I decide on company colors.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By John J on 19 Dec 2009 04:16 PM 
Is a UNDEC car that important? You can change the scheme of any piece of rolling stock your self. What is the differance between a UNDEC and a car you got as a bargin and repainting it?

I got one of these ( Scroll down some to see picture)

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

I thought of Stencils. I have not finished researching a machine that makes small stencils. It may be kind of pricy. 

I play on re painting all my engines once I decide on company colors. 

Removing lettering can be a real pain IMO. Keep in mind that I make vinyl paint masks in addition to vinyl transfers.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

John, 

If you are going to use the stencil repeatedly (for many cars), consider finding a laser cutter (one that can cut metals) and have a stencil made on shim stainless steel. Might be a bit pricey, but with a little care it should last a long time. 

Bob C.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Guys - 

I have been remiss in expressing my appreciation for all these tips, although they did show just how much I didn't even quess. Never would've painted the inside, wouldn't have thought about light glowing thru, etc. I did know, but totally forgot about washing the body in the dishwasher. I'll have to be real careful about that. Just like me to forget to turn off the heated dry cycle. 

My son gave me a gift card from the toy store, also known as Harbor Freight, and a 20% off coupon from HF! Guess what I'll be doing next week! 

jack 

I have a fair number of mostly full bottle of Floquil from my HO days (twenty years ago). Would it be a bad idea to.....??


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I expect your Flowquil has passed away.


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## PLONIEN (Jul 31, 2008)

I have printed some very high quality water slide decals for modeling purposes using a color laser printer instead of the older ink jet method which requires you to “fix” the printing with a clear fixative coating prior to using the decal or investing several hundreds of dollars for a used Alps printer. I have been using the Papilio laser paper which is available in packages of (10) 8.5 X 11 sheets for about $1.35 per page. Here is a reference URL for both clear and white decal paper: :

http://www.papilio.com/laser%20white%20water%20slide%20decal%20paper.html 

http://www.papilio.com/laser%20water%20slide%20decal%20paper.html 

I have one word of caution though. You should make your art work less than a full sheet page and cut the special paper to fit your art area, moved to the center area of a normal 8.5 x 11 sheet. Then tape (at all edges) the reduced sized (cut) decal paper to a normal full sized sheet of laser quality blank paper in the same area as where your art prints on your normal paper test page. The reason for this is that many laser printers use a very hot “fuser” which are heated rollers within the printer which heat and fuse the laser toner (the image) to the paper. A full sized page of decal paper has the propensity to hit the hot rollers and then result in the edge wrapping around one of the rollers instead of being pressed between them and sent on the way through the normal paper path. The normal paper will pass through the fuser rollers without any problems and then “pull” the decal paper attached to the page by tape, through the process without the tendency to fuse itself to the roller and jam the machine. I learned this the had way, and you can spend many hours trying to disassemble your laser printer to clear the fused paper within the fuser assembly. You have to really know what you are doing to clear this type of problem, since any inexperience can render you laser printer permanently inoperative! You will know if this happens since you get a burning “plastic” type of smell and failure of the paper to exit the printer, if this should happen. If you do jam, shut off the printer immediately and open it up to maximize cooling to the fuser unit, and then get qualified help to clear the jam if you don’t have the technical savvy to do it yourself. 

One note, although the laser decals work fine when not exposed to weather, they must be sealed if you intend to leave them exposed to the weather, just like you would with any water slide model decal. Test your sealing coating before you use it on your model, since some sealers like the “Testors” brand sealer for inkjet decals, will look somewhat “frosted” when used on the laser paper. Any good clear art quality spray seems to work great, as does clear coat paint sold in automotive stores. The best results come from testing before spraying on your model !!! 
You can print white letters on white decal paper... the trick is to use a colored "text box" and then change the box color to match your model... then change the type (Font) color to white. I did this for black police cars... used a back text box and white letters printed on white decal paper. You just cut out the box and slide it on the black car... and you get white letters on a black car decal! Works with any colors. 

Regards


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## rpc7271 (Jan 2, 2008)

I get all of my custom decals from shawmutcarshops.com. He can do artwork for you or you can do it. Decals are always clean and sharp.


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