# PRR Harbor Tug



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

This is a Dumas kit, 1:32 scale and is battery powered. the hull halves are adhered with CA then the seam reinforced using Polyester Finishing Resin with hardner. The resin is to be applied under and over a 1" fiber glass ribbon. I've never used this product and would appreciate any experience one can offer. LiG


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> The resin is to be applied under and over a 1" fiber glass ribbon.


Sounds like the way you repair a fiberglass boat. West Marine has lots of hints and info.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Using-Epoxy-Systems


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick use binder clips on the seam as you us the super glue then use the epoxy resin and place the fiberglass tape into it along the inside seam. After it hardens you can trim the outside seam. Once done the fun begins. My JC is on its 7th season and still runs great. Jack. http://forums.mylargescale.com/members/4301-bdp3wsy-albums-carfloat.html


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, thank you for the link, will carefully check it all out. Jack, good to hear that it is robust as well as good looking. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here it is so far. All my apprehension of using the resin was for nothing. Warmed the house up to 75', and it went on easy. The fiber glass tape supplied went right in the tight parts using a tung depreser. Now to just wait for it to cure.


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

Love this tug. It's on my bucket list.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Martan, the instructions say to use an exacto type knife to trim the flashing from the hull halves. For me I found a good kitchen scissors (like the kind used on chickens) to be easier as the knife seemed to wander. The hull halves I had to hand sand as they flopped around. Now that the halves are together and the hull seems sturdier I'm going to try to use tin snips to remove the keel flashing and a palm sander to smooth the seam, we'll see how that works out. Who's your buddy in the pic. LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Nick;

If you had a New York Central tug kit, you could put a figure of a young Barbara Streisand in front of the pilot house and play a medley of her songs from Funny Girl. (Hate to admit that I am old enough to remember that movie and that scene!) Anyway, the PRR tug reminded me of the movie scene.

Happy building,
David Meashey


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, another tip, when you paint the hull use the reddish auto primer spray, 3 coats and do the entire hull. Then use semigloss black on the top half. This way if you get a scratch in the top half black the primer shows and looks like rust. I have multiple dings and scratches and it adds to the effect. Also Dallee sells a tug sound unit for it he doesn't advertise it but it is fantastic. Call and he can play it over the phone for you. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, that is a great idea, going to print it and put it in the Harbor Tug file so I don't forget.Thank You


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## jokensa (Dec 4, 2014)

this is really great!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Trimmed the flashing and sanded the hull for the installation of the Keel strips. A bit of a set back: the fiber glass ribbon that is coated with the resin holding the two halves of the hull together released on one side at the very top of the bow, don't know why. Mixed more resin and had some ribbon left over so I re-applied both to the inner bow. Also the bow and fan tail line up perfectly but the Skeg (hull just forward of the rudder) not so much, going to need some Bondo there. I'm having fun. 
Dave, so I guess the NYC also ran barges across the river? LiG


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"Dave, so I guess the NYC also ran barges across the river?"

I think several railroads had tug and barge service in the New York metropolitan area. I remember seeing photos of tugs for the Eire RR as well, and there could have been others.

Have fun,
David Meashey

P.S. Checked the book I have covering the New York, Ontario, and Western RR. They had a very small fleet of tugs in the New York harbor. Possibly the Delaware and Hudson had some tugs as well. Don't have reference material for it. No doubt the PRR and the NYC had the biggest fleets, but there were other railroad tugs in the water.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Here is the Harrisburg sister to the jersey City. Also the Central of NJ and LV you could always tell their tugs they had the short stacks. Why so when they went up the East River the Bridges did not need to be opened. RR tugs had high pilot house to see over the railcars. [/ATTACH][/ATTACH]


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Dave two barges day 14 railcars each which equal 56 tractor trailers. The only why to get across the Hudson is 140 miles upstream. They go from Jersey City to Sunset Park in Brooklyn takes about 45 minutes.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, very nice pics. will blow them up for detail. thank you. LiG


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## Martan (Feb 4, 2012)

Nick, that's Henry. Unfortunately, the late Henry. He was killed by a coyote about 5 years ago. I keep his pic as my avatar on my social media as a picture of myself would scare the bejeebers out of everyone! (I now have three german shepherds- they keep the coyotes away). Hopefully sometime this year I'll get this Tug kit. I want to get the running gear as well. The tug sound board sounds pretty cool too. Thanks for the thread, I've been googling about for build logs, it looks like a great kit.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Very sorry to hear about Henry, we can get very close to our little friends. I did also get the running gear and the VIPER Marine 25 which will control the direction and speed of the motor using only 1 stick on the transmitter. I have tested it on the bench and like how it works. There may be other devices out there and others will contribute to this. I am finding that the very thin plastic of the hull has some distortion, but thanks to Bondo all will be fine. One piece of advice if I may: I used the small clips to hold the hull halves together but it seems they didn't go high enough on the flash and there was a little bit of separation at the actual hull seam. The resin and ribbon secured that so it isn't an issue. The Bondo filled the area at the Fan Tail and the Keel strips will secure the rest of the seam. I'm enjoying the build and hope you will get one soon. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Got the hull all filled in, did see one spot on the rear keel that needs to be filled. The skeg is now all squared up and took the shine off the entire hull. After filling that little piece and an acetone rub down I'll give it a dusting of primer which will bring out any irregularities that need more attention. if none show up, taking Jack's advice, I'll prime the entire hull. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Gave the hull an alcohol rub down and the keel area a light coat, then wet sanded it. Had second thoughts about painting the whole hull. Supposed to be .060 thick, it is very flexible and I don't want to add several layers of paint only to have it crack. Also there is a modification to the skeg where the prop shaft now protrudes that will need to be blended. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, another tip, don't use the wooden tires in the kit. I used rubber tires off two old Hess tanker trucks that I got for $5 bucks each, they were beat up but I just wanted the tires. Looks 1000% better. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, I appreciate your tips. Along with some other stuff I got two bags of tires also from Harbor Models. He stocks all sorts of things useful. LiG.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick you are welcome, try this site for all parts, this link will take you to their portholes , brass and with windows a perfect fit. Jack. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/rb_portholes.html


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, gave that site a quick look, sure carry a lot of really nice and unique items. Will certainly give it a more through look later, thank you. 
Smoothed out the skeg where the prop shaft protrudes. Cut and installed the deck support strips. Adhered the deck halves together with wood strips. Fitted the deck into the hull and adhered it to the support strips. Installing the Bulwarks before painting so the clips don't mar the hull.
Assembled the running gears and motor. Fund one of the gear assemblies has a wobble causing vibration. Called Dumas and a replacement is on it's way, excellent service. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

A plus working with plastic, a little bit of Bondo can fix bad fitting parts and cover seams. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Completed the fantail/drying rack. It is made to be removable so there's access to the hull allowing installation and service of the rudder, arm and servo linkage. There is a cap rail that will hide the imperfections. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Received the replacement gear assembly. The new one is fine, no wobble or imbalance. It is now on the bench running so the gears can wear in. Since Dumas doesn't want the defective one back I disassembled it and found the main shaft to be bent. LiG.
EDIT: found the shaft of a worn Dremel wire brush is the exact diameter of the bent shaft. Rebuilt the gear assembly using that, and it works. Now have a spare. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

What a week. Thought I had filled the seam down the center of the deck before installing it. Gave the bulwark and deck a coat of paint and saw where I didn't do such a good job. Attempting to fill in the area and giving the deck a slight crown I really messed things up. While it looked pretty good after filling and sanding, the paint revealed how bad it really was. Several sanding and priming tests later I am now happy with the look. Found some really high grit paper at the auto store, up to 2500. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Did a lot better filling the seams of the bulwark caps. Much easier and only 2 dimension, close ups of the seams. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Feels good when one can see their rounds of progress adding up.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15, it sure does. perfect example: the tire hangers, 40 on each side. Tedious but very rewarding. Once again the cutting tool came in handy, had to cut a plastic strip for the blocks and to shorten the eye pins. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

There was no way for water breaking over the bulwark to flow overboard, scuppers were needed, supplied by Harbor Models. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Brings to mind several decades back when I was a kid, there was a children's book, Scupper the Sailor Dog. At this point I have no recollection of the contents, but the mention of scuppers did dredge its name from the depths of memory!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15, glad I could rouse an old memory, strange things sometimes bring back snipets of things for me also. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, really glad I took your advice and painted the entire hull with the undercoat before painting above the water line. I used 2500 wed/dry paper to smooth out the line, before the dull coat. Got a bit over zealous and removed the black in a couple of tiny spots, the red shows. Going to leave it as it adds a little character. Got any tips for adding the bumper strips? LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Scuppers are nice never needed them but nice anyway. Create a spacer based on the distance on the stern to the outer edge. Make the spacer the length of the hull and tape in place. Place the first bumper under this spacer so it is equal distance down all around as you glue on the bumper. Then remove 1/8 inch on the height of the spacer and tape it under the first bumper. Glue on the second bumper then move the spacer down again. I attached mine prior to painting but you should be OK. I use dental crazy glue called Sinbad. You put the glue on the bumper and whip the hull location with excel orator with a Q-tip. You can take your time the glue will not dry till it touches the hull.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thank you very much. I will look for the Sinbad and excel orator, never used either before. The spacer/guide is a great idea, will make it out of thin card board (like the kind on the back of a pad). I painted it first in the hopes that the hull bumpers would better show up against the paint. Going to let the paint cure a few days before attempting. I'll keep you informed. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The dull coat did a job in a couple of areas on the hull. Port bow and starboard stern. Paint and Matt clear coat are the same brand, the black is the newest coating an it wasn't effected at all. Had this happen once before years ago but not since learning to wait. Any idea's why?? LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Hmmm I wonder if spel ckek didn't corrupt accelerator with " excel orator"


I had that happen with Fusion many years ago. Read the directions on the can and I believe it's repaint within an hour or two or wait a day. It either needs to be soft enough to absorb the solvent or withstand it on the other side.
Nice tug.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, have to agree about 'accelerator', software can be fun. It is a nice kit and hope to enhance it a little bit. 
I followed the directions on the can. The black is 48 hours old and the red is 7+ days old, the black wasn't harmed at all only the more cured red. There's a tech assistance number on the can, will give them a call today. LiG
EDIT: called the help line, "shouldn't have happened" was the answer.
EDIT 2: going to spray scrap pieces of plastic using the paint that wrinkled, after a 48 hour cure will try a couple of clear coat products 
see if I can see where I went wrong. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

I find if you just lightly dust the coats this never happens but then you need to do it 3 to 4 times. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thank you for sharing. I did some testing mixing brands R & K just to see the results. The R brand clear coat attacked the K brand paint in places even lightly applied. Valspar didn't attack either. Since I use R brand can only comment on past experience with that product, had one can that only had propellent and a couple of cans that had mostly solvent and very little pigment, In this case I wish the trash pick up wasn't so prompt so I could retrieve the can I used on the hull. I did give it a clear coat, out of fear I used the Valspar.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Looking great. These tugs were so beat up on the hull any lumps or bumps adds the glory


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, you are absolutely right. If I were the least bit good at weathering I'd add some rust or possibly some 'Red Lead' primer in patches, but I know it would look fake and I'd ruin it. The barge proves my point. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Procedure states "the coaming is designed to keep the water out of the hull". Procedure didn't show one under the fantail/drying deck, which would have as it lifts out for access to the rudder gear, so I made one from a piece of scrap. The scuppers are in anticipation of water being trapped on deck. liG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made some progress on the pilot house. I had to do the windows twice as the material supplied was too floppy for me to control. Local hobby shop had some thicker material that I found easier to work with. Used markers and bulbs from Harbor, I wanted them to be lit. Still need to finish painting the railings. Painted the stanchions before installing. The procedure calls for the railings to be black, my personal preference is white. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made a jig/holding frame to assemble the ladder rungs to the sides. Still deciding if I want to use it with the wooden steps provided or make a fully brass ladder. The jig will make that so much easier. LiG


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Nick, love the progress and how it's coming along. Top stuff mate.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott, thank you. I finished the Pilot house, happy with the results. Now to start on the deck cabin. Taking it slow, learning steps with a new knee. Life is Good


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looks great, I love the care you take with each phase of the build.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;

I noticed a water cannon on the roof. Were those tugs pressed into service as auxiliary fire boats when the need arose?

Very nice modeling.

Best,
David Meashey


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, for me the pleasure is the build. Someone more experienced than I once told me "take your time and enjoy the project, after it's built it will be just another toy". 
David, Thank You. The instructions called it a monitor. I guess it can be used to help with fires. I have also seen pics where it is used in ceremonies and celebrations. LiG.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Inventive jig. White railings with black ladder steps looks good.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15, thank you, jig made it very easy, can use it again for a shorter one. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The basic cabin, used Bondo to fill in the forward bulkhead, side seams and rear structures. Used the heat gun to shape bulkhead, had to fill a couple small areas that collapsed. Made the roof removable for ease of painting and adding small details like the hand rails. Making a bending jig to form the bulkhead that attaches to the front of the cabin roof, will use the heat gun to shape that also.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The hatches were fun. The cabin is shaped to fit the deck and there is an up swing from center to forward. The forward hatches are not perpendicular to the deck but aligned parallel to the aft buikhead. If installed using the deck as the guide they would be tilted aft. Once I realized the geometry involved I adhered the structure to a piece of cardboard with fwd elevated as on deck and marked the locations. Can now also see the hinges. I think the hatches were set up this way because ??? we have a tendency to walk upright even if the deck/floor is on an angle and if those hatches were 90' from the deck could possibly cause head injuries. Others thoughts requested.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bringing together several small projects brought the tug into reality. Procedure showed aft cabin ladder ending even with the cabin roof and had no hand holds or safety rails so getting from the ladder to the roof meant crawling. Made another simple jig and made the ladder stringers longer so the crew can stay upright from the tup rung to the roof securely. Also added short railings on each side. I especially liked the look and fit of the life boat and cover, I did drift from the suggested colors.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Received a suggestion on another forum, install a safety chain to complete the hand rails along side the life boat.
I always appreciate suggestions for enhancements. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sean, here's the safety chain you suggested. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

That is really taking shape. The details certainly make it look more realistic!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, thank you. yes realistic is my goal. That is why I ask for and if I can do add the fine points that are suggested. LiG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Nick Jr said:


> I especially liked the look and fit of the life boat and cover, I did drift from the suggested colors.


 I'm going to call that a successful drift.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

on30gn15: thank you. I am working on the Bitts, Ballards and handrails. Handrails, I'm adding where I thought there should be, not brightwork on this one,, painted white. LiG.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's the Bitts, Ballards, Handrails and Lockers. Still some detail to go. The flag was missing from the kit, but I'm sure when I call Tuesday they will happily send me one. 
Happy Memorial Day, while keeping in mind the meaning of the day. Life is Good


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

You are getting very close to the finish line. I can't wait to see it steam.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, yes very close. Sorry to disappoint you, but this one has an electric motor, operate on 12VDC. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry, I realized that after posting. It will still be great to see it running.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, I will be excited to see it actually under way also, and accompanied by the barge I built last year. Thinking of driving spikes (straight pins) through the base of the bollards into the deck to secure them. I used nails on the barge. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, for towing rope use 3mm or 4mm weaved candle wick, hobby lobby, etc. Soak in a cup of hot water with 2 tea bags over night will give it a nice tan used color. Yes, secure the bits, I had to order ones that had threads out the bottom so I could place nuts under the deck. Also bring a rod, reel and casting weight with you. (Propel pocket fisherman is my insurance. Saves having to wade out to it if there is no one around with a boat to get you back in case there is a problem (electrical or weed wrapped around the prop). Ask me how I know this one.....LOL. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

bdp3wsy, I stained the twine provided with tea for the life boat and flag. Will go to craft store today and see if I can find the candle wick you describe. I have other stuff left over when I made the Salvage Tug, too big for that, and was able to make eye splices in it. Are the strands on the candle wick clear and able to be spliced? I will take your advice about taking a fishing rod with me, not crazy about loosing it now. And Dumas is sending me the missing flag, great to deal with. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

bdp3ws, after a good look, driving pins through the base of the bollards just won't due. They are really 6 separate pieces glued together. The only way I can see to make it secure would be to use a very thin screw, 1 3/4" long, and go all the way from top through the deck with a nut under. Unless someone has a different idea, I'm open to suggestions. Also decided to use a bit of foam between the motor platform and hull. With the motor platform laid directly on the hull the noise and vibrations were really loud. Still having fun. LiG


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

If I were to tackle this, I'd make new bollards, I would start with two nails of the appropriate body diameter. I would file (or preferably turn) the heads to get the correct proportions to the body diameter. I would then cut the nails to the appropriate length required, obtain a die for a thread matching the body diameter, and thread the cut-off end. Lastly, I'd make the upper plate and base plates from brass thick enough so it isn't easily bent over such short distances (thin steel could also be used), then silver solder the plates and nails together, forming the bollard. Insert into appropriate holes in the deck, add a washer and either a locking nut or a normal nut with loctite. I pretty much guarantee you'd rip the deck out before breaking the bollard. 

BTW, though I don't post much here anymore, I still lurk (force of habit?), and have followed both of your tug build threads, and your barge build thread, with great interest. Very unique builds and some great modeling. My hat is off to you.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, your suggestion is a great one, if I had lathe and the talent to do as you describe, unfortunately I have neither. Looking for something like bdp3ws described and hope I don't destroy the deck trying to remove them. I thank you very much for the compliment. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, use these. hhttp://www.harbormodels.com/har1403.html. perfect replacement and have given me no problems in the last 4 years. Also on the rear deck place a small bead of plumbers putty around the edge and push in place. It will stop the vibration and help seal out water. I have only needed access once and got in easy. Jack


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

For the side ones I used these cutting off one side bar and then pinning to gather. Jack Single Corss Bollard w/ Nut
Single Corss Bollard w/ Nut
Made from strong polymer, comes with threaded pins and includes nuts.
2/Pack

Dimensions:
Width: 15/16" (24mm) bollard arm span
Depth: 11/16" (18mm) base depth
Height: 1-7/8" (48mm) from bottom of bast to top of cap
$5.45
HAR1402


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, THANK YOU VERY MUCH, and they are PERFECT. I also thought of using one of the existing ones to make a mold, resin cast with a screw imbedded as the ones you described. After getting my hand under the deck to reach the reach them, I don't have the dexterity to thread a nut on the bolt. I stopped at the hobby shop yesterday and bought some 2-56 threaded rod with washers and nuts. If I can drill down through the round part and the deck I can lower a piece of rod down, and balancing the washer and nut on one finger, thread the rod onto the nut. Then lower a nut from the top, tighten it up, grind off the excess, fill in the depression and repaint. I know that sounds 'RUBE'ish' but the best I can come up @ this time with what I have and can do. I hope to post pics later with the outcome, either way. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The results of securing the Bitts and Bollards. With a very small bit drilled all the way through, to later follow with the right size for the threaded rod. As you can see if not perfectly centered the countersink of the top nut will need more care filling in. On the other side I got over confident, breached the side. and damaged the deck. Was able to straighten the hole and made that right. First I used wood glue to hold the washer and nut on my finger, on the second one I used a drop of oil. I liked the glue better. With them on my finger found the bottom of the rod and turned the rod sticking out the top to get it started. Added the top nut. Using a 3/16" box wrench snugged up the nuts under the deck. Ground the top of the rod flat. I Bondo-ed the Bollard side, top and the deck of the first one, then touched them up. Need to concentrate more to keep the drill centered on the dowel. The other three went without incident. On the rear I had to remove the rudder to allow the prop shaft to be slid out of the way for hand access. The forward Bitt was easy, lots of access under the deck. The rear Bitt was another story. Had to remove the rudder servo, aft servo bracket and cut out the back panel to get fingers under the Bitt. I should now be able to tie off without fear of loosing my tow. 
Ran out of room, more pics on following posting LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

the rest of the pics: Thank You LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made a little progress past week. Couldn't dye the provided nylon thread so got some at the local craft shop. Aligned and adhered the motor platform to the hull. Attached 10 tires to one side, stil not sure if I'm going to keep the present spacing. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't know which topic to ask this, so here it is. Everything on this boat is plastic, the receiver will be below deck. Since it will be within 6" of the motor I'd like to extend the antenna to above the deck for possibly greater range and maybe less interference. The antenna looks like plastic how and what would I use to get it above deck. Thank You. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You might not need such an antenna. I'd try a test first, The plastic won't, well shouldn't impede the signal.
Great job.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, thank you and appreciate your input. Going to try something. Set up the house phone near boat, connect a servo to a spare port, with a buzzer. Call it from cell and start walking away to see the range. Would hate to sit on the shore, with a fishing pole as I was advised, and watch it just sail away. LiG


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I was thinking out of water; sitting on a drum or barrel.
My luck would have it taking on water as well!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, Yes out of water. Will check the 'water tight integetry' in the bath tub when I add weight to set the Center of Weight Position and Lateral Inclination. Procedure predicts I will need about 5-7 lbs of weight. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Decal by Stan Cedarleaf, been getting product from him for many years, following his directions and I've never had a problem. She holds a very special place in my heart. Life is Good


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Your tug is looking outstanding. 

Tommy
Rio Gracie


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Tommy, thank you very much. I just realized I didn't explain the dog, tug is named after her. LiG


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not sure you need to put the antenna outside. I have receivers inside of metal tenders that work a 100 feet away with no problem.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, thank you for the input. 100ft on a track where you know where the device is going is OK, you will ultimately catch up with it. On a lake bit of a different story, I have visions of me waving as it sails off having no control of it. On the Salvage tug there was an extension of the antenna that spanned the top of the two masts. I didn't strip and solder that antenna to the receiver to yet, just found out I could do that. LiG


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

tmejia said:


> Your tug is looking outstanding.
> 
> Tommy
> Rio Gracie


It sure is.... Great job, Nick... Great job..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan, thank you. Your decals have adorned many of my builds and mod's. LiG


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, Nick.. My pleasure..


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

First launch in bath tub. With no weight in the hull, only running gear, with the superstructure added it listed to either side. Added two lbs distributed evenly bow and stern it didn't list anymore. The rolling test, lean over to where the water is to the blawark and release, it righted it self. But it was still sitting much too high in the water, the propeller was almost half out of the water. Off to Harbor Freight for more Steel Wheel Weights. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick, use buck shot mixed with gorilla glue in a small zip lock sandwich bag. you can form it to the hull shape and adjust add more if needed then let it set. If you need to ever remove it just lift it out and remove shot or add more. Jack


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

You can also add dry shot to the deck to get the correct amount to add to get the level correct. Jack


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Kevin Strong came up with putting the lead shot in foil packets, easier to shape and glue in place. 

Gun stores are a place to find the shot, I went with bird shot for smaller voids.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack & John, thank you for your input. Jersey is not a very gun friendly state. When I was ballasting the Salvage Tug I called 5 gun shops in S Jersey, and only 1 answered the phone, and he didn't carry shot. Buying it on line I'd have to pay additional shipping and shot isn't light, so I went with what was most available. Jack, your suggestion of adding weight to the deck temporarily is a good one, After I stick the 3 lbs in the hull, I'll put the super structure on and do that. LiG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I added about 5.5 lbs of weight, total weight of tug is above 11 lbs, kitchen scale only goes to 11 and it shows err.
It is balanced and level at the water line. The prop only produces cavitation between medium and hight speed, with the propeller totally under water it seems fo be pretty strong. Next is to test the R/C range as I previously described and then an open waterway. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick any pictures of the tug with the float. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

bdp3wsy, if you mean with the barge, no, still haven't found a local lake that will allow me to launch even just the tugs. I haven't stopped looking. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Nick are you located in NJ Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, yes south jersey. LiG


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

You can look at the South Orange Seaport Society web page. They have a town pond and meet weekly and open to guests. You can also email them for clubs closer to you also. Jack


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thank you for the info, will save it for when the quarantine lifts and the weather warms a bit. LiG


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Great job Nick. I model the Pennsy in gauge one but havent gotten into tugs and barges although they were a fantastic feature of the New York city scene. Most fascinating for us Europeans. One of our group Denis used to be a sailor and I think has a barge.


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