# LGB 3802 rolling resistance problems



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi all
I gots me a problem, not to long ago I got a 3 car set of closed vestibule passenger cars from LGB, two 3802's and one 3801. These cars are old, mfr early 1990's by my guess, They suffered from coupler droop that snagged switches and derailed the cars. I ordered and installed new LGB replacement trucks and even used the same plastic wheels from the old cars as my standard Bachmann wheels were too big for those trucks, but the old wheels in the new trucks are not working out at all.
 
The old wheels seem like they are very tight in the new trucks and there is a great deal of drag now that wasnt there before, so much drag that my Bug Mauler cannot pull even a single car over the layout. Is there a difference somewhere between the old trucks and the new ones that I'm missing?

Should I make the effort and just get new replacement metal wheels from LGB, if so which set works best with the new trucks?

Did LGB ever make roller bearing wheels for these cars?

Thanks Vic

edit) PS No track power pickups


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Vic,

 If the axles are to long they will drag. You can cut off a little bit and see if that helps. I also use  power graphite on the axle ends.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Garden Railways had an article on fixing these back in 1987 or so. Basically add a bit of wire similar to a brake shoe hanger at the ends of the trucks to keep them shoved out.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm kinda surprised that the old wheelsets didnt just snap right into place on the new trucks with room to spare, musta been a design change somewhere down the line. I would prefer metal wheels, less mess on the track & less rolling resistance. Maybe I should get the metal wheelsets first and see how they work. 

I've tried cutting Bachmann axles back in the past, very hard without a grinding wheel, the steel is hard! I think I might only need to take 1/32" off each side of the axle, if I have to I think I'd rather dissassemble the truck and try reboring the axle pocket a tad deeper with a hand drill. Might be easier than cutting hardened metal axles.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Vic,

Not sure if this will work because I don't know the exact style of the trucks, but here's what I've done in the recent past on LGB trucks:  Usually one sideframe is rigid, and one articulates like walking beam suspension.  If you unscrew the rigid one and elongate the hole in the sideframe, it will allow you to mount it slightly further out from center.  

Keith


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Keith, I'll check that out tonight.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

OK I tried Keiths suggestion, loosened one side of the trucks, spead them out and then reattached the screw while pressing the frame as for out as it would go, this seams to have helped alot, much less drag, but theres still a little. I'll give Garrets suggest a try also if I can find some brass stock in my work area. I think between the two I should be able to fix them. Will update after trying Garrets idea


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