# Regner "henry" kit



## dmaclar42 (Dec 27, 2007)

I recently received my Regner "Henry" kit and not being an experienced steam engine kit builder I am wondering what type of a finish to apply to the wood parts in the kit. Should it be water resistant or does it matter?
Also, in Shawn Viggiano's review of this kit in the Nov/Dec 2017 issue of "Steam in the Garden" magazine he suggested using some type of flanged ball bearing or bushing where the axles and rods slide into the frame. This seems like a reasonable idea. 
Where would I be likely to find such things?
Thanks for any help anyone can provide. Don


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Check out Avid RC site for a selection of flanged bearings.

Larry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I would probably use a lacquer-based sealer on the wood, the most resistant to other things. Or maybe a polyurethane sealer like used on boats, depends if you want it shiny or not.

Greg


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

If you use lacquer or polyurethane, you might want to consider wiping it on. That is what I plan on doing when I get my kit.

For lacquer you can just wipe on multiple coats as the next layer will partially dissolve the lower layer. If you use polyurethane you will need to scuff up the previous layer to give the new layer something to attach to. A grey 3M pad or steel wool will work.

Just for those considering this.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Please be advised that changing to a ball bearing in the frame will require you to use a mill to bore the current holes larger for a bearing. 

As to the wood finish. I use minwax stains and ink type stains. Clear if any is just the minwax stain or a flat rattle can clearcoat. All gluing needs to be done before any clear or staining with polyurthane.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I get my bearings from RCbearings.com. http://www.rcbearings.com/products/mf74zz-4x7x2-5-flanged-bearing.html. Although last I checked they were out of the flanged sizes but any RC dealer should have them. I just used my drill press to enlarge the holes to fit the bearings but you have to be careful and make sure you are exact on both sides. Then I also took some light sandpaper and had to take some off the axles, so the axles slid through the bearings easier. I just put the axle in a drill and folded the sand paper around the axle. You don't need to take much off. Just do a little at a time. 
The wood parts I just did a wash with alcohol and india ink. I don't preserve it with anything other then rubbing some steam oil onto it. I did the same on my Climax and seemed to work fine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry Green said:


> Check out Avid RC site for a selection of flanged bearings.


Larry, you have some experience with small steamers. I would have thought the Regner bearings are quite substantial enough without the complications of trying to mill the chassis to fit ball bearings.



> As to the wood finish. I use minwax stains and ink type stains.


I think leaving the wood to get naturally dirty would be fine. There is certainly no practical need to varnish the wood, and a backwoods railroad with a device like that would not have bothered making it pretty!

As Jason says, stains and inks will give it a prematurely 'old' look.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Pete,
Unless Regner has upgraded since I purchased my last Easy Line locomotive there are no bearings at the axle/chassis interface or the drive rods.
The Konrad I converted to a park train in 2007, after running many miles at train shows-occasionally hours at a time, developed oblong holes in the chassis with grooves worn in the axles. Jay added bearings to the chassis, rebuilt the cylinder and sold me new axles and rods. It's back to like new.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete Thornton said:


> Larry, you have some experience with small steamers. I would have thought the Regner bearings are quite substantial enough without the complications of trying to mill the chassis to fit ball bearings.
> 
> 
> I think leaving the wood to get naturally dirty would be fine. There is certainly no practical need to varnish the wood, and a backwoods railroad with a device like that would not have bothered making it pretty!
> ...




Pete Regner doesn't use any bushings or bearings in the frames. They just drill a hole in the frame and fit the axles through that. Over time the axles wear as well as the holes the axles run through. By adding some flanged ball bearings will keep things from wearing out as fast. Not sure why Regner never added bushings at the very least. I never used a mill to drill mine out. A drill press works just fine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Pete Regner doesn't use any bushings or bearings in the frames.


Sorry, guys. Guess I could have picked up the Otto on the shelf over my desk and checked!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry to say, but you get what you pay for. LG


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

This is one area that Regner needs to step up their game, even the Roundhouse basic series have axle bushings. 
Mike the Aspie


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick not sure I would take it as far as "you get what you pay for". That might be a bit extreme imo. They are great starter engines. The easy line stuff is still very good live steamers, some of my best running steamers with no problems. Not having bushings isn't the worst but easy enough to do yourself or have someone do very easily.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sean, I don't know any other way to put it. Yes, you can 'purchase' and install bushings, 'at an additional cost'. I know it is a labor of love. 
BTW, I do like your scenery layout. LG


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, as you know you cant please everyone. And Nick sure hasnt changed. As to a bushing, Toms engine had major modifications along with a new flywheel that wasnt balanced. Caused severe wear on the motor mounts. Also note that keeping things clean is key. Running on the ground you are always subject to dirt and particles. Funny as roundhouse uses a bushing and yet with the same use and care the axles still wear out. Its common and not something to get all ruffled about. Parts and service are available. As to why it happend, the dirt gets lodged in the softer material, brass and wears the harder material steel. Same happens to Accucraft too. Its all in care and maintenance. 

If you do add bearings, please do be careful, a mill and endmill is the best way as a drillbit will always drill oversize. Also it will not stay rigid and be as accurate. Though a few thou may not cause major problems you can catch the brass and rip it from the vice. Its always dangerous enlarging a brass hole with a drillbit. It can catch amd pull down the drill in a sprial. Also always best to back the material with some wood to keep that from happening too.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

When I have drilled out for bearings I start by using a countersink to open the hole to approximately the O.D. of the bearing. Then use increasing sizes of bits and finish with the required drill size. The countersink helps keep the drill bit from wandering.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, not a bash just a fact. Are you saying all locomotives are built to the same standard of quality? For instance, when I purchase an Accucraft , I have several and will continue to purchase them. But I'm not under any delusions of what I am getting. Thank You.


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

*Regner "Henry" kit*

The key to long life, bearings or no bearings, is to keep them clean. I have seen every brand of locomotive with scored axles and bad bearings due to the combination of grit and oil. That is a fine cutting medium.

Clean your chassis every month with mineral spirits and flush out all that old oil and grit and apply new lubrication and you will find that our little engines will outlast us!

mocrownsteam

Mike McCormack
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike, I have an elevated layout, but still put my locos on a cookie sheet and spray them down with solvent. 
Speaking about axle bushings: The Mamod Brunel comes with bushings on all axles, and has a ceramic burner. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, You're right I haven't changed. I posted my more than satisfaction with the Wuhu G5 and Mamod Brunel, still am, And I have no complaints with my Accucraft, I got what I paid for.. EDIT, the more i think about it, I don't think I have ever posted any dissatisfaction with any LOCOMOTIVE I have purchased. I did return a Regner to Dave, only the box was opened and when I saw there weren't directions in english. After my inquires went unanswered I returned it fully in tact. And I never posted about it until he brought it up. LG


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Getting back on topic, a couple people came across the same 50tooth gear missing. I will have those shortly and be shipping them directly out to the few that contacted me about it. Also I received while at Cabin Fever the text portion to the instructions so I was able to get them translated to English yesterday.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Speaking about axle bushings: The Mamod Brunel comes with bushings on all axles, and has a ceramic burner.


I was cleaning my Brunel after a run this morning and actually recalled this thread, so I checked when I cleaned it - yep, brass bearings. But you won't find me spraying them with solvent any time soon. For a start, in a condo the wife would have a fit at the smell. And finally I only run them once or twice a year so they really don't get to accumulate much dirt. I'll clean it in 10 years, maybe.

P.S. The Brunel was not expensive. I paid less than $500, and it is a nice runner. Video from this morning to follow in a new thread.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, I'm sure you also noticed it is a real piston engine with a valve, and comes with a pressure gauge. With a little piece of thin plywood and parts from your junk box can make a very cool and powerful back woods loco. Anxiously await your video. LiG


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Anxiously await your video.


It's here:


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, It's looking good. I bet it would pull those cars even with a small load. LiG


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