# 1:20.3 C-16 #268 scratch build



## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

Hi all. I have decided to put my RGS 22 project aside for now and take on a huge new build. The #268 is one of the two remaining Baldwin C-16s in the world and it happens to be about 10 miles from my house at the Pioneer Museum in Gunnison. I understand that Accucraft makes a model of the locomotive that is very close to being 100% accurate. However I do not have thousands of dollars to spend on a brass engine. I am going to build it from the wheels up, including a scratchbuilt tender. Now the C-16s have 31 inch drivers which happen to be very close to the size of a Bachmann columbia driver in 1:20.3. Though the wheels are close in size, I hear that the effort that the motor and gears produce is less than reputable. My next thought was the Aristo Rogers. Honestly I have no idea how big their wheels are but from looking at them they seem to be around the same size as the ones on the Columbia. If anyone has a rogers and could measure the diameter of a driver, it would be of great help. If anyone else has ideas for drivers and such, I need some suggestions. Thanks for looking!


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Check here--an extremely useful page

http://gold.mylargescale.com/Scotty...guide.html


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

It says The Page cannot be displayed


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Dylan,

Check Hartland's drive wheels, the middle size should be about the right size for a c 16. This would also give you a gearbox and a motor that works well together. They also have side rod parts that you can get that will make that part of the build a lot less work than doing it from scratch. Check with there parts dept.

Chuckger


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

Yes, the drivers on the 4-4-0 look to be around the right size. Unfortunately you have to call for parts service on a Tuesday or Wednesday, does anyone have driver dimensions for a Hartland 4-4-0 or 4-6-0?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

4-4-0 Jupiter; 
tread diameter; next to flange: 1.982" 
at wheel face; 1.975" 
tread width(including flange) .270" 
flange at tread; .093" thick. 
.113" tall 

side rods aprox .40" off set from axle center. 

That should cover it, 
John


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Dylan, 
The C-16s have 36" wheels, which is a good NG standard. Hartland's mid size wheel is around 35" at 1:20.3, plus flange, and would work great, along with their modular gearbox with huge Globe motor. The LGB Mogul wheel is also a good size for C-16 as is the Aristo Rogers 2-4-2 wheel (which also uses a modular gearbox) The Aristo wheels and gearbox can be purchased as spare parts from Aristo and some stores...they have catalogue numbers for the parts....but you will need to grind off the flanges on the Aristo wheel for the blind drivers. Hartland make a blind driver for their mid sized wheel. 
The Bachmann Columbia wheel is indeed 31" at 20.3, but will be too small for the C-16. 

Dont use the Accucraft modern C-16 domes for you loco unless you plan to build it at 1:22.5 scale. The Accucraft Modern C-16 has many virtues but accuracy of the domes and tender are not amoung them. You coulkd go over and measure the real domes for yourself, as your Dad did a few years back...they are big domes! I found the Accucraft C-16 steam dome useful for a sand dome on my Cooke 2-6-0 at 1:20.3 scale, and the Bachmann 4-6-0 steam dome with mods good for the Cooke steam dome...I suspect the #268 domes will be in that order of size too. 

David.


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

Well thank you, that is all very useful information that I will consider. If you had to choose, which wheels and gears would you use?


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

hmmm..still getting some weird stuff happening with my MLS web space.. 
lets see if this one works: 

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/MLS-kitbashing-guide.html 

Scot


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

That one works, thanks


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'd go with the Hartland stuff. It's inexpensive, which I'm assuming to be paramount on your list. You're going to have to build your own frame, which is a downside. With something as long as the C-16's wheelbase, you'll definitely want some level of equalization in play so it can compensate for twists over its wheelbase. Spend a lot of time on that. If the loco doesn't run and stay on the track, it's not worth putting the time and effort into anything above the drivers. I'd be glad to give you all the advice about how to scratchbuild a successful locomotive frame that I've amassed over the years. 





Did you get all that? Which is to say I'm not exactly batting 1000 when it comes to building successful frames from scratch. As a result, my usual route is to look for an existing, proven chassis that can be adapted. Unfortunately it's not often the most budget-conscious route. (Barry's Big Trains does make a 1:20 C-16 chassis, if you do decide to go that route--complete with siderods.) I'd ask for advice over on the live steam forum. Some of those guys have built many sprung or equalized chassis, and will be willing to expand on the volumes of information I've already imparted.  

Later, 

K


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## Dylanfreeski123 (Apr 13, 2008)

Thank you, building the frame correctly and accurately is crucial to the success of the project


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