# Virginia & Truckee Empire Build log



## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Google has changed and I can't find a way to post full size photos with text, so for now I will go with thumb nails which can be expanded and Flicker streams.

I went to the Sac Museum and got a lot of closeup photos but I couldn't get back far enough to get the whole thing.
I found this on the web.










As you can see, it is a real beauty.
I have the wheels on order and Dennis is CNC'ing the frame.
In the mean time, I am making the cylinders and boiler.
The boiler will be a locomotive style with a ceramic burner. The burner needs to fit between the frames so a different shape firebox is needed. I did a mock-up and am ready to start the shaping today. The tube diameter needed to be reduced so a portion was cut out and it was soldered back with the new diameter

The Flicker stream is in somewhat reverse order. If you hover over the photo, it will show the info and clicking on it brings up a full screen shot.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/with/48380173617/


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like it will be another of your gorgeous creations! I'm not sure if that is a standard or narrow gauge. What scale are you using?


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Bill It will be beautiful!

Jason


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Winn
V&T ran all standard gauge but they were small engines and look out of proportion in 1/32
Aster did the Reno in 1/28 (I think). I will be doing this one in 1/26 because that gauge matches up with the V&T coaches available. It will still be a small engine.
Although this was predominantly a freight hauler, It is too pretty not to be pulling the classic V&T coaches.


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## bobrstrong (Mar 25, 2013)

Bill, it would be great to see you build some V&T correct coaches to match. I could use some behind my Reno. Yes Aster claimed the Reno was 1/28. I'm not too sure that is correct. Cheers, and I didn't forget about the email, my scanner/printer is down


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

We are going to ride the V&T on the way back from the conventions in Portland and Sacramento. I'm not sure what they pull it with, supposed to be steam.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well, I think I have found a photo posting site so here goes.

Here is the finished cylinder. I won't be able to complete the valve body till I get it on the frame with all of the valve gear in place.










I am turning the eccentrics from 303 stainless here. Normally, I would use 12 x 18 ball bearings here but there is a clearance issue between the eccentrics and the expansion link.










Here is the through shaft for the bell crank which is similar to the Ruby setup but I am using 1/8 x 1.4 ball bearings to eliminate play and wear.










Here are the components in place. There will be an expansion link half way between the eccentrics and the bell crank. The eccentric followers were turned from bearing bronze.










After the boiler tube was soldered with the seam brace, I made this tool for truing it up. First I drew the circle needed with a compass on a 2x4 and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the compass center hole. I then cut the circle out on the band saw a little oversize, mounted the piece in the arbor and then turned it to the exact diameter on the lathe. Finally, I cut out the notch for the seam brace on the band saw using nibbling cuts. I then just hammer it through the tube to get it perfectly round.
This tool was also used to form the firebox portion of the boiler.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
another beautiful loco in the making! I hope, your design with the eccentrics works well. My Betsy had steel eccentrics and bronze followers. After about 8 years the bronze (!) was completely worn out, while the steel parts (not hardened) were OK. Of course after adding the "Bill Allan ©" ball bearings there has been no deterioration. 
By the way, less than 300 views so far for this build is somewhat disappointing. It looks as if the current readers of MLS are not interested in build logs any more, especially the excellent ones provided by you with lots of valuable information! After all, it takes time and effort to post these threads.

Just for the record: My cog build log on buntbahn approaches 60,000 views, another one (BR52) started at about the same time as yours is close to 30,000.
Regards


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Henner, I agree that doesn't seem look a lot of looks at Billie's project. However I don't see where you get 60,000 looks on your cog loco, I only see 3557.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

placitassteam said:


> Henner, I agree that doesn't seem look a lot of looks at Billie's project. However I don't see where you get 60,000 looks on your cog loco, I only see 3557.


 Winn,
I said "buntbahn", not MLS (http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewforum.php?f=23) "Zahnradlok Wasseralfingen".

Regards


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Great project Bill, it really reminds me of my Ken Kidder Porter mogul I had as a teen ager when I lived in Lincoln Mass. I really like the lines of these late nineteen century engines. wonderful looking cylinder block.
Right now I am in the midst of fitting heating and insulation in our new home, so no trains for me at this time just a bit of looking on the internet and planning out the new line. Hope to get on with it soon and will show progress as it starts.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks guys
The boiler has been a new undertaking for me being that the burner has to fit between the frame rails.
It is a wagon top design but doing a full wagon top transition would be a lot of fitting and soldering for less than a half ounce of capacity. So, I decided to do a vertical transition on the boiler and a sloped one on the cover.

Before I got hot and heavy on the boiler, i wanted to build a burner box to make sure I would have enough heat for my needs. I built the box similar to prior builds but for a one inch wide ceramic plate.

Here is my first test at a low setting









And high









My tubes finally came in and the first thing is to solder them to the intermediate or throat sheet 
The front tube sheet keeps them aligned and the ss wire holds them in place.









The tubes are soldered on both sides. The two copper studs are for the crown sheet to rest on while being soldered.









Next, the front tube is soldered on to the throat sheet and the front tube sheet is soldered in place. The three pins on the side are to keep the sheet from sliding down as the tube heats up and expands, The two holes are for the smokebox mounting.


















The rear tube and firebox section is then soldered on and the complete boiler is done.


















The boiler and burner are set in the frame to check for the axle clearance needed









The smokebox is installed and a 1/4" plate is used to raise the boiler to the finished height.


















The only thing I may change is the clack valve fittings which may impede the boiler wrap installation and removal. So I may drill them out and replace them with flat bushings.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry Henner, I didn't realize that "buntbahn" is a website. I thought it was part of the loco's name. Shows you what I know. I try to keep my mouth shut when I don't know what I am talking about!


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice silver solder work on that boiler Bill...enjoying watching the show...


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## MGates (Mar 16, 2016)

I really enjoy reading and seeing your build threads here and in SiTG, Bill. Looks like another great loco to build, and I will be checking back in frequently. Thanks for taking to time to share.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Here are a couple of boiler photos I didn't post last time.


















I decided to change the valve design to use ball bearing eccentrics. 
Here are the expansion links Dennis cut for me on the CNC mill
Die blocks would be too small for this link so I use bushings made from bearing bronze










This saddle is used to move the link from forward to reverse and the screw head slides through the notch.










The saddle is attached with .046 music wire peened over on both sides.










Rings with an inside diameter of 18 mm are turned from 3/4" stock and silver soldered to offset eccentric rods.









And then pinned to the link


















The ball bearings and rocker shaft are set in place.









The rocker linkage is installed









There is some more progress but I am out of time posting.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a suggestion Bill... you may want to resize your photos before posting. I'm running a screen resolution of 1920 x 1080, and your photos are so huge that they won't comfortably fit my screen without considerable effort on my part. Not to mention that I always have to scroll side to side to read the accompanying text, which is distracting.

With the ever increasing resolution of cell phone cameras, this is becoming a big problem. Whatever system you're using to post photos seems to bypass the "automatic resizing" software MLS uses. I'm sure I'm not the only one with similar complaints.

All due respect.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Dwight
The MLS photos have been resized on my computer and fit nicely on the screen. Even when I click full size, it doesn't go off the screen.
I use a 24" monitor with a laptop and a 1920 x 1080 setting so I wonder if it is just your screen size or something else
The photo sizes are 3264 x 2448 pixels


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

On another site, it is suggested that pics be 800 pixels wide (keeping the ratio) to facilitate those with slower uploading machines.
Dos Centavos


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Jerry
Are the photos looking too big on your computer like Dwight's?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

bille1906 said:


> Thanks Jerry
> Are the photos looking too big on your computer like Dwight's?


 I get them normal sized, and with the yellow header_ " This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image."_
Some images are 3,264px × 2,448px and others are 1,067px × 800 px when enlarged to the _'full image'._

Bill - a problem is that many folk are reading on a tablet like an iPad, which doesn't always work the same way as a computer. I use the Microsoft Office Picture Manager or Abode Photoshop Elements to resize my photos down to 1600x1200 or smaller before I upload them.


Welcome back, Dwight.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the welcome Pete, but the truth is I never really left. What I did do was to quit being a moderator, as well as pretty much stopped participating on the site. But I'm still lurking in the background.

Bill... I am one of those using a laptop, but I can't see how that has anything to do with anything, since I've been exclusively using laptops for well over a decade, both at work and at home. My current laptop runs at 1920 x 1080 landscape mode. My old work laptop ran at considerably less resolution (1280 x 900 if memory serves), and I never had these problems. 

At any rate, since there's no way the site's current owners are going to troubleshoot and fix the automatic resizing routines, I guess I'll just have to live with it.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Pete & Dwight
It is just a hassle for me to down size them as I would have to keep two files, one with the low res and one with the standard. I use an old Nikon camera and I think it is only 5 or 6 meg. Not like the smart phones which are around 10 or better.
I like to keep the high res so that I can go back and see how I may have done something by viewing them at 100% and if I want to do a magazine article on it, they need the high res.
I notice when I am traveling and using the laptop, things take up more space like a one page thread may be two or three pages on the laptop. That is why when referring to a photo, I always say the date rather than the page.

Thanks for the input and the interest in the build.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

The crossheads were made by tracing the outline from a scale photo and then cutting two pieces for each side. The four pieces were clamped together and a 3/32 hole was drilled through all four. A 4-40 screw and nut was then fastened on the assembly and along with a small pair of vice grips, all four sides were sanded to the final shape. Then two of the holes were enlarged to 5/32 for the shoulder bolt hole. Two 1/8" brass square rods were silver soldered on the inside piece for the guide and a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 was soldered on the front for the valve rod which was drilled out and tapped to 4-40 after both pieces were soldered together.







] 

The bracket that is protruding is for the crosshead pump




































The fenders were bent around a socket. I tried different sizes till I got the right one.









The two rear drive wheel flanges almost touch so I soldered two fenders together to see if that would work.









I then soldered a piece across both pieces for mounting them.









On the ends, there wasn't enough room for an angle bracket so I silver soldered tabs on









After everything was assembled, I tested it on air and it ran great. I then dissembled it for painting.
With some of the brackets removed you can see how the valve gear is hooked up. Not a lot of room there









And here are the parts ready for painting.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

I always follow your builds Bill and a clever idea of putting the fwd/rev servo between the frames, so obvious now but I never thought of that area before. Those 'fenders' would have been very delicate to build and look really good painted. Your builds always offer something new (to me anyway) in the way of technique and ideas so I really appreciate you posting them. 
Regards
Russell


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

That goes for me, also Bill. You do a wonderful job of showing how it can be done simply.
By the way, I read your photos on a PC fine.
Just a suggestion from a European live steamer used to plate frames: For us over the pond, the US was synonimous with bar frames, wouldn't it be a good idea to file out the openings in those frames, they are thick enough to stand up to the beating and it would improve the apearance tremendously. Just a suggestion as I am not a rivet counter. But for us here in Europe it's an American trademark (Except for some German and Tchekoslovakian locos, that I can think of)
Really nice job. I am curious to see how that Stephenson valve gear works out too, my NORD Atlantic built by JVR, has one, and even he admited that he shouldn't have done it, apparently its difficult to reduce in scale and keep the proportions right. On that beautiful Atlantic I cannot reverse it!
Best from over the pond, Simon


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Simon
The Stevenson gear was an adventure. I think I have it right with the ball bearing eccentrics and ball bearing rocker shaft which seen to be the parts most likely to wear.
It was extremely smooth and powerful running on air and should hold up well over time. 
I guess all of the holes in the frames were to lighten them up and maybe for some maintenance but for me, the more weight over the drivers, the better and there is no useful maintenance advantage. 
Looking at the prototype at the museum, the frame behind the drivers showed no holes. They were probably there but hidden by the wheels


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight Ennis said:


> Just a suggestion Bill... you may want to resize your photos before posting. I'm running a screen resolution of 1920 x 1080, and your photos are so huge that they won't comfortably fit my screen without considerable effort on my part. Not to mention that I always have to scroll side to side to read the accompanying text, which is distracting.
> 
> With the ever increasing resolution of cell phone cameras, this is becoming a big problem. Whatever system you're using to post photos seems to bypass the "automatic resizing" software MLS uses. I'm sure I'm not the only one with similar complaints.
> 
> All due respect.


Good to see you back. Hope all is well.

Chris


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Yea Bill I looked at the photo on the first post and the bar frames are not really visible on this loco. Perhaps it wasn't built with bar frames. You are right about weight especially on small light engines like that. I can't wait to see how this does with the Stephenson valve gear. I might try to fit mine with ball bearings also. There is a good deal of slop as John used this loco a lot. And it was built many years ago.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I finished one crosshead pump today and tested it
I check the output and then squeeze the rubber tube to get an idea how it is performing under pressure. I don't have enough hands to show that test in the video but it looks good.

Here is a shot of the crosshead and pump hookup and flanges.









And the pump valve. The tube on the upper right will go to the clack valve and the one on the left to the bypass valve. the bent tube goes to the pump and at the rear bottom is the inlet. you can see the black tubing hooked up to it which goes to a tub of water. The 0-80 screw in the left side is to keep the inlet ball from rising too high









Here is a video of the test


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I didn't realize you were adding a working crosshead pump. Great Stuff!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

thanks Pete
This may be the last
I didn't realize how complex the job was.
I now have both pumps working and will probably set it up with two bypass valves as there are two clack valves on the boiler.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

bille1906 said:


> thanks Pete
> I now have both pumps working and will probably set it up with two bypass valves as there are two clack valves on the boiler.


Bill - my 7-1/2" Gauge CP 173 has dual crosshead pumps, and like you suggest, I ran two bypass pipes back to the tender and fitted each with it's own bypass valve. In practice, I find when running her that one valve always get left fully opened, and the other valve is the only one I need fiddle with. That's because one of the crosshead pumps can _ almost_ keep up with boiler demand, but not quite.

If I were to ever repipe her, i'd join both bypass lines to a single line running down the centerline of the loco's underside, equipped with a single bypass valve controlling everything.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Dwight
The only reason I would have for two bypass valves is that if one pump or valve leaks, both pumps will become inoperable with the bypasses hooked together. 
I think I will probably only need one but this engine has fairly large cylinders so one might be marginal.
I tried to look at your build log
I finally found it but none of the photos are there.
When I search my old logs, all of the photos are there so I guess they are different depending who access them.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

Over a year ago the site's technical administrators managed to "seduce the canine" thereby erasing all our member based photo files. Said personnel have never even attempted to get the photos back, which is why a LOT of the longer term members have left. It is also why old build logs no longer have their photos.

You may have had a different storage method, so your photos still show. Photos that were on the MyLargeScale Gold Member space have gone bye-bye.

It is a big sore spot for a lot of (former) members.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Here is one of my posts from 2010
Can you see the photos or do I just see them because they are on my computer somewhere
http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/15687-double-fairlie-construction.html


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I can see them.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

Yours come in fine.

David Meashey


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Dave
So I guess it is like you say, The MLS Gold member ones are gone but mine which were posted from three different sites over the years are ok
Thanks


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

The cow catcher pilot has 22 bars so everything needs to be right or it will look off.
Plus the framework needs to be sturdy enough to withstand a crash.

I start with some photos and design my framework and bar spacing. the numbers are the progressions of the bar end holes.










I solder the lower rails together and drill them per my design









I then desolder them and sand down the solder leaving a little for tinning purposes









I then lay the pieces out on my drawing to check them









And then they are silver soldered together









The vertical braces are set up for soldering









The frame is then completed.









I will be using 1/16" copper tubing which will be reinforced on the front four bars with 1/32" music wire inside. I need to flatten the ends but they all need to be consistent so I glue a small piece of 1/32" brass on the mill vise as a length and thickness gauge.









I make a notch in a piece of hardwood for a drill jig. I am using the mill vise for the flattening so I clamp the jig on the drill press base.









Every bar is a different length and there is not a consistent progression in the lengths. I can do two at a time as both sides are the same but measurements and math are required to get it right. I am using miniature straight pins and bending them over to keep everything in place.









Here things are ready for soldering.









And soldered up









And painted


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

That is really well done (as is the rest of your build). I really appreciate the detail you provide in your posts, it is really great to learn how you solve the modeling challenges. 

Thank you


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

There was a thread here on RC throttle controls. Jason posted a photo of the Roundhouse RC valve.
At the NSS he was kind enough to lend me a valve so I could understand the concept.
I was thinking that an o-ring could be blown off the valve but after examining it, I get the design. The dimensions are critical in that they allow enough volume of steam but not enough clearance for the o-ring to become dislodged.
Here is my rendition of the valve.









The clack valve is different looking than most as it is shorter and has a finial at the top.
I always use a 5 mm threaded plug at the top with a protrusion that goes down and limits the ball travel. I just made this plug with the finial as part of it.


















The boiler wrap is made from .025 brass sheet. The only complex part of this is the transition sheet for the raised portion of the boiler. I just cut a piece out of paper and kept trimming until I got the right shape. I the used it as a pattern.









The valves and sight glass are installed along with the cab floor









And then the running boards are installed.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

I wrote an article on the New Hampshire Garden Railway Society's website a while back on how to use online cone template generators to design tapered boilers, including boilers with an eccentric taper. Of course, trial-and-error with a paper template works too! Fantastic work, as usual Bill.


Planning a Tapered Steam Locomotive Boiler


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Richard
I have saved the link to your article for future use
There seem to be three types of wagon top boilers, straight cone, tilted cone and the one on the Empire which only has the vertical rise but the sides and bottom are straight. 
I started with a half of a cone and drew straight legs on each side. I cut the form out which was pretty close and then cut any excess and added where short with masking tape to get the shape I needed.

Doing a wrap is easy as it doesn't have to be perfect. When I did my Heisler, I made the actual wagon top boiler using Kozo's pattern and reducing it to my scale, Even doing that, I had to add and subtract a little to get a perfect fit.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have been busy and things are looking good.
The boiler wrap is primed with self etching primer and painted a Russia blue










The straps are made and clear coated to maintain the look of the museum piece.









Lots of changes here.
The domes and bases are turned from aluminum. The rear dome has a brass strip around it to match the original.
The cab floor and running boards are fitted with a piece of 3/32" brass tubing which was split on the table saw
Pilot truck is installed and the smokebox front is made









The rear dome houses the safety. An inner dome is made with an o-ring at the top which will keep the outer dome in place.









Then the safety is installed and checked/adjusted









Using a cone formula, I cut out the two sections for the stack and glue them to a brass sheet









They are then annealed and silver soldered









They came out pretty good but a check on the lathe showed a .009" variance. This is corrected by setting the top face down on the mill vise base and trimming the 009 off with a fly cutter.









While I have the fly cutter set up, I cut the curvature for the base.









I then shape it and part it off on the lathe.









I have a knurled nut for the stack and I drill six 1/8" holes to tighten it up.









Here are all of the stack parts with the upper pieces being painted.









I didn't get any photos of the headlight construction but here id it in unfinished form.









And completed.


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Looks amazing!

Jason


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely beautiful work, I've loved watching all your projects. Outstanding.
If I could urge - try to get the architecture right. Locomotives of this era are distinctive in their dome styling (among many elements of their architecture), the dome tops especially are a signature - you can tell the builder of the loco by the dome style alone. No two builders had the same dome tops. Baldwin's were quite tall in the crest. What I see here are a good rendition of a Danforth Cooke dome. The model looks great, but boy if you could get those dome right. Also go for the real stack of this era. Drop us a line if you need some drawings. I can also assist with artwork for the tender and dome sides - did it for Empire for a commercial project some years ago. The dome drawings attached are from a slightly smaller NG dome, virtually identical, but larger lid. The Empire today is painted Lake - a dark brown (not black), but she was actually a wine colour (deep maroon) when built.

David.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback David

I did notice that the domes were off after striping them. I think that looking at the engine from a close low angle gave me the impression that they were flatter on top.

Looking at the engine in July, it seems to me that it is a gloss black. As you know there are different blacks and the Lake color may have some brown in it but looking at it under the bright museum lighting, it just looks black to me.

I have some good photos of the tender but detailed drawings would help. I will be doing things a little different as it will have a wood load and set up for hand pump and RC equipment.

I'll sent you an email about the drawings.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Based on David's suggestion, I made two new domes. I think they look better now. He also helped me with the cab roof which was wood layered with lead sheets, here is my rendition of it.









I still have a few things to do but it is almost finished and ready for the tender which I will begin when I get back from vacation in October. 
Dennis made the beautiful oval border on the cab name plate. The letters are left over from the John Wilkes project
Stan Cederleaf will be doing the decals and David is helping with the design.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Really amazing to see the progress after seeing where you were at with it in July. Been so busy here I've not been keeping up on much


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks Fabulous Bill, the Dome styles are spot on! Very classical and all Baldwin.
Thanks mate,
David,


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I'm away from the shop for three weeks but I noticed that I hadn't posted the latest photo of my work.
I made the side window frames out of polished brass but for the front ones, I tried something different. Dennis cut me some frames from 1/16" MDF on the laser. I gave them two heavy coats of primer and then a coat of metallic gold paint. To me, they seem just as realistic as the brass ones


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Bill, you do incredible work. Well done


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well, I got back from three weeks in Kauai last Monday and I haven't been able to get up to full speed yet. Still hanging loose.
In any event, I have been able to get pretty far along on the tender.

The trucks are different from anything I have done before so I just compared the drawing to the photos and came up with something that looked like the prototype and could still accept the pin striping. As the striping in the museum was about 1/8" which scales down to .005", I had to make a couple of the members a little wider to accommodate my 1/64" striping.
The five pieces are cut from 1/16" sheet stock with the 1/8" band saw blade and trimmed up on the 1" belt sander and the drum sander. the axle boxes are cut from 3/8" square stock at an angle and the edges are chamfered on the 1" belt sander









The tender body was formed from .032" sheet stock, annealed in the front where the round bend is made. I then set the trucks in place with spacers to raise the body to the drawing height and set it behind the engine to see if it looked right. You can see a similar plastic tender in the background which I used just to check some proportions.









Here is a closeup of the tender. It is very small compared to the last few I have done.









The inside height of the tender is just under 1-1/2" which doesn't leave a lot of room for the fuel tank. I want this to have some long runs so I decided on a square tank with just about 3/8" of water surrounding it on both sides and the rear. I planned on 1/8" clearance on the top. To do this, I made the tank with the valve entirely inside. Below you can see the tank top with the valve soldered in and the pickup tube at the bottom is bent up to get the gas from just under the top plate. The outlet tube in the middle of the valve will exit the front side of the tank.









Finally, the gas tank is installed with the outlet coming out of the front of it. The hand pump is installed transversely with the pump handle set in a holder. In the corner you can see the bypass tube. The front section houses the RC & batteries.


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

Wonderful work


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, a couple of questions if you don't mind. What do you hydro your fuel tanks to? Do you use stays? (The walls look a bit thick, so maybe not?)

Also which build log do you think shows your ceramic burner design / build the best? Uintah, Triplex, Y6a? Do all your ceramic burners use two jets?

Sorry, I was up late last night with all these random questions running thru my head after spending a couple of hours reading thru you older posts.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Dave
I try to use material which is at least 1/16" thick for fuel tanks and boilers and stays of at least 1/8" in diameter.
With this formula, I have found that 1" gap between stays works well. this tank was 1-1/4" high and about 2" square so I went with one stay in the center of the 2" square. The tank and stays are brass which is stronger than copper so the 1-18" inside span should be good to over 100 psi. Usually, I use pipe but the tender was so shallow, only a 1" pipe would have fit in so I went with a square tank.

I try not to be too monotonous so I usually don't post procedures in detail that have been shown before. The problem with that is the procedures are usually shown over several builds. My next build will be a Skookum Mallett and I will show the entire burner build for you.
I usually build my engines with large cylinders so I can pull maximum loads. The two jet system allows me to do this with steam to spare. WuHu has developed a system similar to mine which uses one jet. It works ok but does not produce enough steam to compete with the larger coal and alcohol Asters. I tried the single jet burners early on but was not happy with the output. With the dual jet system, you can always turn the gas down and get economical runs.
I get my ceramic plaques from Bruce engineering in the UK. They also sell burners but you would almost have to build your boiler to fit them so I just build my own.

I am curious how you were able to access my old builds. I can get mine in the search mode but I haven't been able to find other's builds there


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's how I can find your builds; I click on your user name in any thread, which brings up a little box where I click on "View Public Profile". I then click on the "Statistics" tab and then click on "Find all threads started by bille1906" . It shows all post that you have initially created since we've been on this new(ish) server.

I'm trying to gather the parts and know-how to build a ceramic burner for my Aster K4. I have one that stays lit, but it doesn't get hot enough. I think it is too small.

I really am jazzed by your tutorial on Building Jets, I'm gonna give it a shot...


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Yes
Most of them are too small
I have found that a .010" jet works the best with my burners


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I finished the decals and striping and the carrying case
Here are some photos of the finished product.
I will post photos of the case later




























Artwork by David Fletcher
Decals by Stan Cederleaf


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Beautiful locomotive!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome, Bill... What a great model....


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Another beautiful model from the Bill Allen shop! David and Stan are the best.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

What those 3 guys said. How about making another 10 for the rest of us?


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely outstanding Bill. The model is amazing!

Thanks for the whole build detail throughout the project.


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## MGates (Mar 16, 2016)

Absolute head-turner. Great job Bill!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Amazing! as usual!


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