# Aster S2 Kits build photos



## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

First of two kits to build. Photos of step one cylinder build after 2.75 hours:

Aster S2 Kit 


Some critical aspects in the first step:

[*]Lapping of parts[*]Proper application of chalk[*]First overview of valve guide setup for tolerance
[*]Check rings for compression 
[/list]


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have noticed on several of the Asters you have worked on that there is a plate cut with serpentine slots, which I assume are passages for steam between the valve and the cylinder. It looks like they would reverse the operation of the piston for a given valve location. Why is that? seems to be an extra complication.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Eric, 
I think that I have this right! 
This is because the 'model' is using 'D' valves, but the real thing had 'piston' valves, which of course work in the opposite direction. 
So, to give the appearance of 'correct' actuation, the plate is used. 
All very nice, BUT when they are running, and for those of us that don't really know better, WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE! 
It seems to be one more added piece of expense and complication for no real value. 
As long as the valve gear works, I really don't think about what is going which way when the wheels are moving. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

You are exactly right as to why that plate is there and for most of the world it seems silly. but for nitpicking idiots like me, it is immediately obvious that the valve gear is not modeled correctly if that sneaky little plate with the snaky slots is missing. It boils down to: is the locomotive a toy train or a model of the real thing? That plate is a very simple item to add so that the cheaper and easier to manufacture "D-valve" can be used on a model of a "Piston valved" engine. Granted, to be a correct model, if the prototype had piston valves then the model should too, but in the interest of expense it makes a nice compromise.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

David is of course correct. What this accomplishes is, when the engine is in forward the Radius rod should be at the bottom of the Expansion link. If the valve gear is not “cross drilled”, which this "extra" plate accomplishes, it will be at the top when the engine is in forward. Personally I think it makes the engine look much better when the valve gear is in the correct orientation.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

"It seems to be one more added piece of expense and complication for no real value" Seems the same could be said for numerous items on gauge one engine but based on scale, cost and the need to compromise there are production items we have to live with. I am in with Dan on this observation as to proper look in forward/reserve. As to "D" valves vs. piston valve probably a cost analysis in regards to the final tally to the customer. Well, finished lunch break off to more work on the 2nd build portion of frame and wheels.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I understand now! It is to make the engine look right when operating. This makes sense...









...if we didn't like complication in our models we would run track powered egg liners on a little loop of track instead of live steam-- or just sit on at the dining room table reading the labels on our beer cans.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Nice photos Charles. Is this a personal build or for a client? 

So, speaking of the cross port plates, for the Mikado, which does not have these plates, how is the correct positioning of the radius rod achieved? Mine is in the correct orientation so I am guessing somewhere else something is reversed?


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Update: 5.5 hours later still need wheels and axle pump installation on the main frame for a total of 9 hours into the project. After dinner should have axle pump install and wheel set onto the frame. See prior photo link for details on the frame build

Special notes on this section:
[*]File the plastic section on the headlight block in order to align the screws[*]File the pilot beam and cow catcher to align the very very very small bolts and nuts (of course inside the beam)[*]Be care with the large rod for drain cocks to make sure the direct of angles are correct[*]Loctite the frame screws for the suspension, pilot, and any small frame related screws that you did not want to deal with later
[*]Make sure to check for countersunk aspect of frame/body so that you did not accidentally reverser parts when installing. Double check off sets or angle to make sure parts are orientated correct when installing 
[/list]


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## RP3 (Jan 5, 2008)

Charles, this is a really nice, detailed, dedcription of the first assembly steps on the S2. But you do mean caulk and not chalk in your second bullet point, don't you? Didn't want the world to think there was some new, super secret building material! 

Keep up the good work. 

Ross Schlabach


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Ha. Chalk it up to a spelling error.


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeremiah, 

The mikado accomplished the correct radius rod position by means of a trailing return crank (valve gear eccentric). The eccentric crank is behind the axle centerline, opposite that of the real thing, which had the return crank ahead (leading) the axle centerline. 

Having it in a prototypical fashion (leading) would necessitate the cross-port/labyrinth plate to achieve the correct "look" with slide valve cylinders.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Lets face it. No manufacturer of our steam engine replicas can make one that has every part on it that the prototype had. Not possible. However, I find it nice when a company or custom builder goes to the trouble to try and make the valve gear lever look correct. Some may never notice it or even care that they do. But whenever I see an engine were the valve gear lever is "Up" for forward and "Down" for reverse, it really stands out to me. Even when using "The six foot rule".


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Steve, 
BUT what if the real loco had 'D' valves. 
Does it bother you then? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Ryan, Thanks for that. I understand now. 

Did any "prototypes" have "D" valves btw? Think I remember reading about it somewhere, but can't remember enough to know for sure one way or the other.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iceclimber on 26 Feb 2012 06:08 PM 
Ryan, Thanks for that. I understand now. 

Did any "prototypes" have "D" valves btw? Think I remember reading about it somewhere, but can't remember enough to know for sure one way or the other. 

Early engines had "D" valves, but as steam pressures increased it became difficult to move the valve since the steam pressure was against the outside of the "D" pressing it down over the ports, creating additional wear and loss of power against the additional friction. There were several attempts to "balance" the pressure which just increased the number of parts and wear on those parts. The Piston valve is fully balanced by design and thus does not wear as badly and also does not sap power from the engine in trying to move against the friction of the seal.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I forgot to add:

Look at any engine and if the steam chest (on top or to the side of the main cylinder) is squarish then it is probably a "D" valve. If it is tubular (often evident in the shape of the end caps) then it is probably a Piston valve.

There were "retrofits" made to convert a "D" valve to a Piston valve, but not many were installed. If was often easier to just replace the whole cylinder and steam chest than to fit a mechanism inside the old steam chest.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks Charles. You do know your trains and that is a fact. 

The more I get into this hobby the more I realize that there is so much that I don't know about these awesome locomotives.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

In our scale, the use of D valves eliminated the need for cylinder drains. However Aster provided cylinder drains on the Berkshire and S2 which have D valves. I believe the Challenger will have piston valves, and the required cylinder drains to exhaust any condensation.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Just finished up to 10.75 hours (time depends on when I get off my butt and check the clock) spent a bit of extra time trying to figure out the orientation of the drain cock rod, why it was different from the drawing and the "bubble" drawing of length (made me think there might be two different ones).


Things to note:
[*]Grease the sides of the wheel axle boxes
[*]Oil the water pump ram
[*] Use an old ball to seat the water pump[*]Little grease on the wheel axles boxes less axle friction
[*]Loctite the set screw on eccentric strap[/list]So, only the brake hangers parts to go... then rods, running gear and timing.... 


S2 build 











Jeremiah- we are building two, one green and one black


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I love looking at the photos of the engine as it is being assembled... all those jewel like pieces to become a gorgeous locomotive!


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Charles, I think I remember the "bubble" is up side down. As you see one rod is short segment forward and the other is long segment forward. Remember to make sure they don't catch on the covers they pass through after the cylinders are secured on the frame. Of the 6 I built several had to be opened up a bit.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By iceclimber on 26 Feb 2012 06:08 PM 
Ryan, Thanks for that. I understand now. 

Did any "prototypes" have "D" valves btw? Think I remember reading about it somewhere, but can't remember enough to know for sure one way or the other. 
Jeremiah,
As Semper has said, it was 'early' locomotives.
I think that the last 'D' valve loco would have been built around 1910.
After that it was all piston valves and then much later other types were tried. 
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Start of Step 3 on the S2 build....total time from this evening (limited) 11.25 hours

Aster S2 build 


Next the linkage to the valve gear and axle pump lines


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

S2 build now at 13.75 with completion of Step 3.

S2 build


In step 3 aspects that need to be attended to

[*]Cylinder block bolt need to be dressed so that it would seat correctly and allow for proper steam passage alignments[*]Radius arm relative to the curve portion needed to be filed so that square block would track properly[*]Loctite all the screw that need to be kept in position that prevents moving parts from coming apart or could cause clearance issues if they become loose[*]Make sure you properly note the orientation of components on the radius arm parts, the reverser rod, how the axle pump lines are arranged and union link/combination lever[*]Grease and caulk as necessary/required. In particular grease any moving part and parts that you will not be able to grease once put together
[/list]


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Okay Charles, now I am getting more confused. 
I am afraid that valve gear has always (and will always I think) be a mystery to me! 
We have discussed and explained that the S2 has plates to allow the look of piston valves, even though it has slide valves. 
By the look of the last photo, it would appear that the radius rod to combination lever is set up as per piston valves, with the radius rod above the valve spindle. 
Now won't that mess up the lap and lead of the valves? 
Obviously NOT, otherwise they wouldn't run, but perhaps a 'valve gear aficionado' can explain why it works. (If they want to) 
If not, it can just remain a mystery to me as always! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

As well as changing which end of the link the valve is driven from, there are other things that have to change when the ports are reversed... the angle of the crank moves from leading to trailing (or vice-versa) the main pin, and the connections to the Combination Lever to get the lead to be right.

Do you happen to have a subscription to "Steam in the Garden" magazine? I did a series of 6 articles that tried to explain valve gear back in 2006.


I will have to go re-read my own articles to get it straight in my own head again if I want to discuss it here and not mislead anybody, but I'd recommend you get copies of the articles for yourself to able to study them completely. 

Part I was in the March/April 2006 issue
Part II was in the May/June 2006 issue
Part III was in the July/August 2006 issue
Part IV was in the September/October 2006 issue
Part V was in the November/December 2006 issue
Part VI was in the March/April 2007 issue


(Note I was was late with Part VI and missed the January/February 2007 issue)

(I have to say that I received practically zero feedback about the series so I don't know if it is worthwhile or not.)


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi Semper, 
I do now subscribe, but didn't back when you did your article. 
I will see if I can borrow those issues and see what you said. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 02 Mar 2012 08:40 PM 
Okay Charles, now I am getting more confused. 
I am afraid that valve gear has always (and will always I think) be a mystery to me! 
We have discussed and explained that the S2 has plates to allow the look of piston valves, even though it has slide valves. 
By the look of the last photo, it would appear that the radius rod to combination lever is set up as per piston valves, with the radius rod above the valve spindle. 
Now won't that mess up the lap and lead of the valves? 
Obviously NOT, otherwise they wouldn't run, but perhaps a 'valve gear aficionado' can explain why it works. (If they want to) 
If not, it can just remain a mystery to me as always! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada Having completed steps 4-6 the valve operation is not a mystery. Total build hours: 21.25


Aster S2 Kit build 


Of particular items to take care of to ensure that proper function of the running gear and timing:

[*]Front and back plates on the cylinders- make sure that the holes for the dock cock valve moves freely[*]Set the valve rod very close to full forward just prior to hitting the valve chest. Most critical to prevent the valve rod from coming out of the guide and possibly moving off track[*]Make sure the valve block clears the valve wall so that once up to temperature it does not lock up[*]Be sure to put the false drain cock covers so the condensation does down and not out[*]Make sure the drain cock piston is set opposite off set of grooves[*]To test the engine, must open the box from step 9 for a part[*]When air testing put steam oil in the valves, cylinders[*]Test run then silicone the valve chest top gasket in case it is necessary to adjust preventing any problem with getting the cover off and damage to gasket 
[/list]
A picture (or video) is worth a thousand words...


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

This is probably too late to suggest, but...

Just soak the valve chest gaskets in steam oil (smear it on with a finger, no need to be too excessive but excess is no problem either) instead of using the silicone caulking. Lots easier to take it apart later and no chance of bending the valve chest cover trying to pry it off against the solidified caulking if the need to ever comes up.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 03 Mar 2012 08:41 PM 
This is probably too late to suggest, but...

Just soak the valve chest gaskets in steam oil (smear it on with a finger, no need to be too excessive but excess is no problem either) instead of using the silicone caulking. Lots easier to take it apart later and no chance of bending the valve chest cover trying to pry it off against the solidified caulking if the need to ever comes up.

Yes,a viable option but not necessary for the air test. Have done that many times in particular with dollar bill gaskets. Speaking of alternatives to OEM McMaster Carr is carrying graphic paper that would make good gasket material.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Ernie Noa showed me a sheet of very thin silicone that he has used as gasket material. Looked like it would be a good modern replacement for the standard materials used in the past.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Aster S2 completion of step 7 total build time is 23 hours



Aster S2 Kit build 




Critical areas during this build

[*]Make sure all air gaps are sealed (particularly with this type of boiler). Even if you cut precisely( as per direction) probably better to leave a mm or two for better coverage. The area around the firebox fitting to the builder had huge gaps that would not be covered by the insulation, thus caulk any area that show light coming through[*]If you follow the directions the later sequence will have you install the fitting and pipe to the sight glass but...unless the top banjo bolt and pipe off the boiler to the sight glass is fitted prior to the manifold than once the manifold is fitting with all the pipes to throttle (3 pipes) etc you cannot fit the sight glass pipe and fitting![*]Be sue to check for a revised whistle lever[*]Make sure to caulk all surfaces of fittings to keep leaks from occurring
[*]Careful with the sight glass was to alignment and tightening [*]Under side banjo bolt very hard to tighten with wrench need to profile it (thinner) to fit in the limited width between fitting and boiler[*]For ease of installment use a thin wire to guide the blower into place
[/list]


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I was wondering how to deal with the waterglass in this type of boiler...that shot clears it up! ...easy enough, just use a long tube and reach around the firebox!


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Eric, 
I was 'told' that this is also a good idea as it gets the lower 'entrance' of the water gauge away from the turbulence caused by the heat of the burner at the very back of the boiler that could cause bubbles in the glass. 
This would be true for any type of fuel I guess. 
Makes sense to me, but I am also not really sure if it's true or not. 
Sort of thing that you need to make two identical boilers, 'except' for the lower water gauge connection. 
Then test them both to see if there is indeed any difference. 
Anyone got enough spare time to take on the testing? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Update for the Aster S2 build now at 29.5 hours having finished steps 8-10. Some notable items to the build during these steps:

Aster S2 build 


Step 8
[*]Notch boiler shell for fit and finish allowing the blower feed pipe to fit properly
[*]Clearance the mounting holes on bottom of shell, ours were off by 1.5mm, and did not allow the mounting spuds to fit nicely[/list]Step 9

[*]Be aware of the very tight fit of smoke box onto the boiler shell, may need to chamfer the inside of the smokebox for a easier fit.
[*]Both of the fake oilers/valve guides 1-2mm taken off the front to ensure the set screw does not tighten down on the gland nut.[*]Steam dome can be a tight fit through the boiler shell, test fit before securing boiler fully and adjust if necessary[/list]Step 10

[*]Doubled the ceramic insulation in the smokebox and on the door to help keep the temperatures down on the outside and prevent staining the paint.[*]The smokebox cap roll pin can be difficult to get started, suggest chamfering the hole on one side of the bracket to start the pin, then using a hand vise to carefully push the assembly together.[/list]


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Aster S2 step 11-13 finished engine with total build time of 33.25 hours and onto the tender this week:

Build log comments and highlights to follow


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Aster S2 tender build: 5.75 hours, with total build time of 46 hours to complete kit. Weekend is looking good (weather wise) for the initial steam test!

An overview of build highlights and point to be aware of forth coming

Aster S2 build photos


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Looks good - and I'm sure that it will run great too. 
One retailer is advertising the kit at $7100 and the rtr at $8650, so that's a difference of $1550 for assembly. 
At 46 hours to complete, you just made yourself $33.70 an hour. 
Great work if you can get it! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Initial steam up having completed the kit build in 45 hours. The outcome of the 1st steamup brings a confirmation of the excellent offering by Aster of Japan. This locomotives is a tribute to the well planned offering from a premium manufacturer of gauge one live steam.
Aster Great Northern S2 Kit build:
Step 16
• Leave center wheel off when having to mount tender trucks to frame because the axle is in the way of placing the e-clip
• File and grease the axle boxes/guides
Test sealant for any leaks prior to test running
Step 15
• Lots of wire bending via templates
• Put stanchions on the wire prior to finish of any complex bends according to proper size
Step 14
• Before mounting the tender rear bumper complete all the wiring for the cut lever and accessories prior to mount (30)
• Assembly the base frame to the tender body before attaching the sump pump given that you have to align the layers of holes
• Make sure that the
• Used Ultrablack RTV to seal the inside of the tender (looks better than the white sealant supplied)
Step 13
• Step 26 the front smoke box railing is probably one of the most difficult wire connecting pieces to line up
• Recommend wires on front pumps piece on the pump in prior to Step 10 
Step 12
• Front pilot beam cut lever better done in step 10
• Steam dome has a correction as to the screw to use
• Being of the many wires to be bent as to template (could do all this in advance)
Step 11
• Box under the headlight modified to put a switch in place which is easier than having the turn the locomotive over to disconnect the batter
• File and clean the centering block on the pilot and oil the pins
• Make sure that guide pins that go into the centering block the nuts are inside the frame and that the threaded end is flush with the outside edge
• File and grease the axle boxes for proper movement on both rear and pilot trucks
Step 10
• Doubled the ceramic insulation in the smokebox and on the door to help keep the temperatures down on the outside and prevent staining the paint.
• The smokebox cap roll pin can be difficult to get started, suggest chamfering the hole on one side of the bracket to start the pin, then using a hand vise to carefully push the assembly together.
Step 9
• Be aware of the very tight fit of smoke box onto the boiler shell, may need to chamfer the inside of the smokebox for a easier fit.
• Both of the fake oilers/valve guides 1-2mm taken off the front to ensure the set screw does not tighten down on the gland nut.
Steam dome can be a tight fit through the boiler shell, test fit before securing boiler fully and adjust if necessary 

Step 8
• Notch boiler shell for fit and finish allowing the blower feed pipe to fit properly
• Clearance the mounting holes on bottom of shell, ours were off by 1.5mm, and did not allow the mounting spuds to fit nicely
Step 7
• Make sure all air gaps are sealed (particularly with this type of boiler). Even if you cut precisely( as per direction) probably better to leave a mm or two for better coverage. The area around the firebox fitting to the builder had huge gaps that would not be covered by the insulation, thus caulk any area that show light coming through
• If you follow the directions the later sequence will have you install the fitting and pipe to the sight glass but...unless the top banjo bolt and pipe off the boiler to the sight glass is fitted prior to the manifold than once the manifold is fitting with all the pipes to throttle (3 pipes) etc you cannot fit the sight glass pipe and fitting!
• Be sure to check for a revised whistle lever
• Make sure to caulk all surfaces of fittings to keep leaks from occurring
• Careful with the sight glass was to alignment and tightening 
• Under side banjo bolt very hard to tighten with wrench need to profile it (thinner) to fit in the limited width between fitting and boiler
• For ease of installment use a thin wire to guide the blower into place


Step 4-6
• Front and back plates on the cylinders- make sure that the holes for the dock cock valve moves freely
• Set the valve rod very close to full forward just prior to hitting the valve chest. Most critical to prevent the valve rod from coming out of the guide and possibly moving off track
• Make sure the valve block clears the valve wall so that once up to temperature it does not lock up
• Be sure to put the false drain cock covers so the condensation does down and not out
• Make sure the drain cock piston is set opposite off set of grooves
• To test the engine, must open the box from step 9 for a part
• When air testing put steam oil in the valves, cylinders
• Test run then silicone the valve chest top gasket in case it is necessary to adjust preventing any problem with getting the cover off and damage to gasket
Step 3
• Cylinder block bolt need to be dressed so that it would seat correctly and allow for proper steam passage alignments
• Radius arm relative to the curve portion needed to be filed so that square block would track properly
• Loctite all the screw that need to be kept in position that prevents moving parts from coming apart or could cause clearance issues if they become loose
• Make sure you properly note the orientation of components on the radius arm parts, the reverser rod, how the axle pump lines are arranged and union link/combination lever
• Grease and caulk as necessary/required. In particular grease any moving part and parts that you will not be able to grease once put together
Step 2
• Grease the sides of the wheel axle boxes
• Oil the water pump ram
• Use an old ball to seat the water pump
• Little grease on the wheel axles boxes less axle friction
• Loctite the set screw on eccentric strap
• File the plastic section on the headlight block in order to align the screws
• File the pilot beam and cow catcher to align the very very very small bolts and nuts (of course inside the beam)
• Be care with the large rod for drain cocks to make sure the direct of angles are correct
• Loctite the frame screws for the suspension, pilot, and any small frame related screws that you did not want to deal with later
• Make sure to check for countersunk aspect of frame/body so that you did not accidentally reverser parts when installing. Double check off sets or angle to make sure parts are orientated correct when installing
Step 1
• Lapping of parts
• Proper application of chalk
• First overview of valve guide setup for tolerance
• Check rings for compression


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## Steamdream (3 mo ago)

Charles said:


> First of two kits to build. Photos of step one cylinder build after 2.75 hours:
> 
> Aster S2 Kit
> 
> ...


OMG what have I gotten myself into, the instructions look so simple, but seeing it for real is an eye opener. ( my 1st live steam kit)


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