# Fasten track to faux wood decking



## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

Seems like I have a question at every single step of this layout construction process. Here's the latest one, as I make progress. I have the roadbed installed. It's cement blocks with a fake-wood decking material glued on top. The track will be fastened to the decking material every 10' or so to allow some movement in the heat. I'm thinking I should drill out a larger hole in the ties and simply put a decking screw through the ties at the 10' intervals. Does anyone here see any problems with that?
Thanks. 
Ken S.
Phoenix, AZ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sounds smart... if it gets a lot of sun and you have a long straightaway, perhaps one of the split jaw expansion tracks will be necessary. 

Greg


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bring its seems like it is ground contact are you ballasting? If so you shodul not need to worry about too much expansion. We did a similar build here in NJ and the plastic is buried under ballast. It gets really no expansion and if holding up well. Now the sections that are exposed on the temporary elevated section do expand and the track basically need to float. Every 10' or so there is a small head scred in the tie. You can also cut the tie loose from the strip and let the rest move around.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jason, in Phoenix, it gets REALLY hot, and long straight sections will kink without some form of relief... the rails alone just expand too much. 

I wish Phil Z. was still posting, he used to email us pictures of the temp of the rail, sometimes 160 degrees as I remember. 

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi Ken, see you keep moving forward!! ya! 

I know you are 'new' to AZ and Phoenix... 

It does get real HOT there, I would be prepared to errrrr........... on the side of lots of expansion in your track work, Maybe Chuck N has some comments also. He could stick his head in here!! 

I have been to a larger layout in Mesa which uses long expansion track sections, esp. on long straights! Lots of room for track movement - without pushing itself out of alignment. 

Planning up front is always better.. 

Good Luck - Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have a 60 ft straight section. I have all the screws removed from the bottom of the rail that attaches it to the ties.

In the thread referenced below, past the ballasting section is how I attach my track to concrete roadbed. 

It holds it firm but allows for some movement. The 60 foot straight section It has a tendency to slip sideways a little in the heat. ( I am in New River AZ ) 

I bought expansion track section but never put them in. Didn't feel it was that much of a problem. What ever the track does that is about where I leave it. 


If the material you are using for road bed is thick enough you could use sheet rock screws. 

This is what I did, This is how I did it.


http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/9/aft/118918/afv/topic/Default.aspx





JJ


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## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

OP here. To Greg's point, I bought a couple of LGB or Aristo (I forget which) expansion tracks because I figured they couldn't hurt. To be a little clearer on my construction, one loop of the dogbone is on 3/8" gravel and will be free-floating. The other loop is on the concrete blocks which sit on the ground, effectively raising the track 8" above the ground level, due to the slope in the yard, and the decking is there only because the blocks weren't quite tall enough to make the track level. A benefit to having the deck is that it gives me an easy way to fasten the ties to the roadbed with screws. I just figured a screw every 10 feet or so would be enough to hold the track firmly enough but not too much to cause kinking in the heat. 
Ken S. 
Phoenix, AZ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

This is what I was talking about that can help in problem areas:


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

When y'all say 'long' sections, please define long.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dirk:

There isn't much that I can add here, because my train is not out during the hot months. We are out there in February, March and part of April. The train is on a patio (covered) and it just sits on a tile floor. No direct sun until late in the afternoon.

If I were going to put a permanent layout down, the first thing I would do is go out to the Adobe Mt. RR park in north Phoenix and talk to them about how they handled their track. The layout has long straight segments, in excess of 30' and is in the sun all day every day. There may be a little bit of shade along one of the curves, but not much. There is also an outdoor layout at the Rec. center in Sun City Grande, there are usually operators there on weekends. They could also provide some incite.

You could just put the track down without any anchors and just watch it throughout the year and see how much and where it moves. That should give you and idea as to what to expect. From my experience, the track will not move very much from one day to the next. A careful check of the track before each operating session should let you correct any problems that might effect the train's operation.

Chuck


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Ken, you've gotten lots of good advice concerning the potential issues of using expansion track (rails) and methods of attachment, but I'm not sure whether or not anyone has really tackled an "underlying issue" and that is with using Fiberon, Trex or whatever brand of plastic simulated wood product you have put down. I have a place in Sun City and most of my outdoor work is in Flagstaff, Arizona (we obviously have a full range of temperatures and a little different moisture situation that Phoenix). I have used several types of "faux" or recycled plastic decking materials because I don't like the annual maintenance of redwood or cedar. An issue with plastic and heat is buckling or side warping over a period of time. To prevent this, I have installed a "tee" or bottom bracket under the 5-1/4" wide decking materials (I use a standard 1x2 strip with deck screws every three feet) to help keep the decking level and from creeping. I would agree with Chuck that shading both the track and road bed will at least keep your temperatures constant and help with any excessive movement. Good luck with the project. Ed


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## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

Correction to Greg: I was correct that I didn't remember if the expansion tracks were LGB or Aristo. In fact, they are Split Jaw. They look just like the picture you posted. 
Ken S. (OP) 
Phoenix, AZ


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## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

And to Ed, half my layout will be in full sun from 8AM until 6PM every day of the summer. No shade will ever be there. I think what I'm going to do for anchoring the track to the Trex decking is to not go through the ties. I think I'll get some washers that span 2 ties, and put the deck screws through the washes and into the decking between the ties. This will allow some side-to-side movement when the temps change a lot and there are forces beyond my control at work on the layout. I should have some track down this week! How exciting is that! 
Ken S. (OP) 
Phoenix, AZ


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Sounds good Ken....I'm moving down to Sun City in November and after finishing a bathroom remodel for my wife, I hope to get started out back. I have a small space (21x24') and need to share that space with a hottub, orange tree and a fireplace...lots of planning for this puppy. This space also is in full sun from about noon until 5-6 pm daily. Of course, during the winter months, the outside temperatures are much more reasonable. I am looking at using the ladder back system for elevating the trains at least to a sitting height (about 16-18") and then doing the landscaping around it. I'm still working on a variety of design options for adding ballast/weather proof road bed and hoping for something that is durable and low maintenance. I'm sure there are lots of suggestions for both. Hope to get out to Adobe Park and talk with a lot of the folks out there on their experiences in the valley as well. Just out of curiosity, what part of Phoenix are you in...big city? Ed


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