# 10 Wheeler Sound



## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am just about done my 10 Wheeler bash and now I am looking for a nice sound card. I do not have a good Hobby store in my area so I am forced to shop online which makes choosing a sound card rather frustrating.


What can I get for the best Bang for my Buck and where can I get it?


I live in Nova Scotia Canada so everything is far away.....LOL


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

When you say "bang for buck" what do you mean? The very cheapest? Or the best ratio of price to features?

I'm still going to recommend QSI. Excellent basic sound, works with DC, batteries, DCC, wireless. Around $130


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

the very cheapest way to get a basic chuff is to use the existing Bmann sound board with some minor modifications 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips4/bachmann_sound_tips.html 

Next cheapest digital sound is from Dallee, about $95 on the street. Not too many places carry Dallee but these guys do 

http://dccroundhouse.com/ 

The next tier up is QSI 

Phoenix doesn't sound any better than QSI but it is more expensive


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The basic chuff on my Bachmann does not work... I would rather have the whistle and bell over the chuff.


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

The chuff on my B'mann 10 wheeler didn't work out of the box. It was an open connection - can't remember now just where it was. The chuff is pretty anemic even when working...


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By George Schreyer on 02/15/2009 11:27 AM
the very cheapest way to get a basic chuff is to use the existing Bmann sound board with some minor modifications 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips4/bachmann_sound_tips.html 

Next cheapest digital sound is from Dallee, about $95 on the street. Not too many places carry Dallee but these guys do 

http://dccroundhouse.com/ 

The next tier up is QSI 

Phoenix doesn't sound any better than QSI but it is more expensive 

Oh man George I couldn't agree with you more!!!!! But oh man watch the Phoenix cats come out to eat us QSI boys up!!Hee hee LOL The Regal


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine has the small scale railways board in the tender. Cost about $90. I picked the "huckleberry railroad" sound. You don't have control of the bell and whistle. It sounds those based on what you're doing and it's always making appropriate sounds. Now, I'd probably look at the QSI board.


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## c nelson (Dec 18, 2008)

Bang for Buck? on DC w/ no Remote?... 

Small Scale: 

http://www.smallscalerailway.com/ 

Like Tom mentioned above....check the Huckleberry...it's a really close match to the "Real" 10 Wheeler-Tweetsie! 

cale


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The QSI seems nice. Can the sounds be swapped around on the cards using a computer? I was looking at the Quantum Magnum: Universal "G" Gauge Sound & Power System but it does not give much information on what you can do with it. 

Looks like you have to buy a software package for $100 just to download and play the files. seems like a money grab.


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Navy tech you dont have to buy the sound files just go to qsi and download the qi and q2 upgrade free download you can listen to them for free, kinda tricky how to download from qsi, they dont make anything really easy, but yes you can change sound in the card but you do have to buy a programmer which is $75 in order to down load into the actual sound card. Usually wherever you buy the sound decoder they will download what you want when you order from them Litchfield Station Bruce or Jerry can help you also they have free shipping on orders over $75. The Regal


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The price looks reasonable I will have to look into this. I managed to get the sound files to work but have not found one that I liked yet. There is not much to choose from for a 10 wheeler


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

The QSI card comes with whatever sound set you request. You can download and listen to the sound files for free but to put different sound files onto the card you need the programmer--as regal said, it's a bout $75.ikt lets you modify the sound file--choose a chuff you like, a whistle, etc. Right now they don't have a sound file specifically for the ten wheeler, but I made one out of chuffs whistles etc and used that. Supposedly iin the next month or two they will be adding more sound files


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One other note is that if operating on DC the minuet you turn the power off the sound stops. You can install the super cap to eliminate this problem. As lownote says you can customize sounds using the programmer. Later RJD


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Today I ordered a DCC decoder Loco Specific AristoCraft plug-in with sound by QSI from Litchfield Station and got the PRR K4 sound installed. I am looking forward to install it.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am currently preparing to install a QSI sound card with a K4 sound file. In preparation for this I decided to introduce power from the track to the tender via the chucks. I accomplished this by making my own bushings.
First I took a brass shelving tab and drilled a hole in the center. 
Next while holding the half rounded part in a vice I cut the round stock part with a dremal tool to give me two bushing inserts. 

I then soldered a wire to the bushings with it spaced properly. 










I the drilled out the trucks to the outside diameter of the bushings and press fit them in.

I did this for both sides of the trucks and ran the two wires into the tender.

















Next I need to install a reed switch in there somewhere. Anyone have any experience doing this. I need the reed switch to trigger the sound card to activate the whistle when it passes a point on the track. 

My next Big Question of the day is when the train passes over the magnet and the reed switch makes the whistle will start but will the whistle stop as soon as the reed switch opens up again or does the whistle continue to go for a set time then stop? I ask this cause I do not want a real quick blast of the whistle when I pass over a spot fast...


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm not sure the QSI card can trigger sounds with the reed switch--Ive never trued to do it, I'm not sure you can

I believe you can trigger the horn under conventional DC by flipping the polarity switch momentarily


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am thinking that you can as the drawing shows a spot for a reed switch. I also have the chuff switch already in the Loco so it should work as well. I know that the reed switch is hooked to VOL which I assume means volume but is it volume for the horn?


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

*If i remember correctly the reed switchs are are for cuffing and total volume of sound board only. if you want to trigger horn and bell on DC power you can flick the direction switch back and forth on your power pack to operate them or you can build this conroller like Greg did for me using a TE from aristo... see video. i only operate my QSI boards with dc power no DCC... i think Greg has or will have something on his site as to how and what to use to build this controller and it really works great and from what Greg told me didnt cost many $*


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

what exactly is the trigger to activate the horn? is it a 5v signal? on/off ? what does flipping the direction switch do to activate it? 

reversing the direction while the train is moving seems dangerous for the motor.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

NT, 

I'd suggest you download the QSI instruction manual for an in depth look at the capabilities of the Magnum board. The QSI stuff works with Analog DC control and or DCC; and it auto senses either discipline. You cannot trigger the horn and such with a reed type switch; however the special design functions of the QSI Magnum board allow you to toggle the reverse switch to activate the horn and bell dependent on the speed at which you cycle the REV switch. While performing said REV switch cycling; the drive train is not affected. 

You can also purchase the inexpensive Quantum Engineer accessory to program and operate all the functions with DC track power only, pretty neat gadget IMO. 

Michael


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Nick, 

Your aftermarket device is an elegant means to operate QSI stuff via Aristo’s TE… Well done Greg! 

Michael


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I the drilled out the trucks to the outside diameter of the bushings and press fit them in. 
I did this for both sides of the trucks and ran the two wires into the tender.


Navy, 

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned this - they must be focused on the sound, not the wiring! *The Bachmann axles are one-piece, not split. Your bearings are both picking up nothing, but will cause a dead short! 
*
I double-checked three (triple-checked?) of my tenders. The black plastic tube is just a sleeve on the rod to hold the wheels apart. Each wheel is insulated from the axle so your pickups are doing nothing. Don't connect them to the engine! 

If you want track pickup, you'll have to press wipers on the backs of the wheels, or replace the wheels with some of those neat ball-bearing wheels with pickup tabs on them.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Good call Pete Thornton. I checked into it and your right. I used a different wheel for testing and the shafts were separated with plastic. I will have to see if I can swap wheels. Thanks a lot you saved my ass on that one.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am now in the process of modifying the Bachmman wheels to rectify this issue. I started by cutting the axle in half and taking a small section out to provide a gab then glue the shaft in the plastic insulator. 

Then soldering the shaft to the wheel. Once I get one finished and operational I will begin the other wheel and take pictures to show you all what I have done exactly. 

More to follow


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Well I got it all figured out and it took some major modification but it works and is safe...LOL 
The picture should describe what I had to do.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

it took some major modification but it works and is safe


You do come up with some interesting solutions. Did you say you are building this while on duty, with whatever is at hand? 

I personally don't like split-axles glued into a plastic sleeve. In my experience they never run 'true' - there's always a wobble. Hopefully yours won't! I'm curious why you shortened the sleeve - the longer the better I weould have thought? On second thoughts, looking at your pic, I remembered it's in two pieces. I used to insert a washer between them to keep the wheels at the correct back-to-back. [I also inserted a longer axle and added a third spacer ot one tender's wheels, making it standard gauge, but that's another story.] 

Half a solution would have been to attach one wheel to the axle on each pair (solder a short jumper wire or add a bent brass washer.) Then move one set of bearings to the other truck on the other side. Insert the axles with the jumper'd wheel next to the bearings, and you'll get track pickup on alternate sides. But only one side on each truck, not both.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

My solutions are not always conventional. I normally search around the shop and see what I can find to get the job done. Some times I will do things different to find out which way is better or simple improve on older solutions. 

I like your idea on attach one wheel to the axle on each pair I must remember that next time. Thanks again for pointing out my error. It is good to catch these critical errors before power is applied.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

before power is applied


Especially if you are on one of the Navy's nuclear-powered ships...


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Well I got my QSI card today and I am figuring out how to wire it up I did not get the screw base terminals so I am guessing that I will have to solder the connections on the pins. Unfortunately it does not come with a drawing to wire directly only one for plugging into an existing Arito board. Since I am putting this in a Bachmman I have nothing to plug into. 

Do I need another board to plug this thing in or can I just hook motor and pick up power directly to the pins


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

You need therye $15-18 adaptor board you I think ordered the pnp which is for aristo only so far, so now you need the adaptor board to plug the unit you have into and then use the screw terminals to wire your bachmann into. The Regal


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Does this adapter board just convert the pins to screw terminals or is there more to it? 

Would anyone have a picture of just the adapter board? 

If it is just am matter of jumping out pins than I can make one from scrap parts in minutes.

I will shop around I guess and see where I can get one.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Wiring diagrams and photos of the Magnum board are all on QSI Solutions website. The diagram is in the Tech Info section, Installation Instructions. Hope this helps. I'd post a link, but can't seem to paste it in. ??? 

Jim McKim


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

photo of magnum adapter board: *http://qsisolutions.com/products/q-magnum.html* 
wiring diagram: *http://qsisolutions.com/pdf/aristo_installation.pdf*


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Thank you for the information. I am afraid that this information is not what I am looking for. I am trying to determine what the adapter consist of? Is there components on the back of the cct board? are there terminals jumped? Or is it just converting pins to screw terminals. 

If it is just converting the pins to screw terminals than I can just solder the wire directly to the pins. 

But if it has components on the back like trace wires or resisters,chips or anything than I will have to buy one. 

Is it possible to wire this thing up without the adapter board ?


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

See also this diagram: http://qsisolutions.com/pdf/magnum_wiring_diagram.pdf

Between that, and the photo, and the description, it's pretty clear to me that it merely converts the 8 discrete pin functions to screw terminals. I have a Bachmann Porter that has a QSI Aristo board in it, without the adapter, and the wires are simply soldered to the pins. I bought it used, and the install was supposedly done by St. Aubins. The adapter board looks like a bulky way to get screw terminals. If I was doing one, I might be inclined to use a short cable between the Quantum Aristo board and an 8-position screw terminal block if I was crammed for space - that way I'd have the flexibility of space plus the convenience of screw terminals.

As someone else mentioned, you can activate bell and whistle functions by judicious jiggling of your direction switch. Greg E. showed me that. Works, but kind of tricky. I tried producing two longs, a short, and a long and was only marginally successful. I plan to use radio DCC, so not bothered about it at this point.

Jim McKim


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Thank you that is great news. I just need to confirm the wiring then to ensure I do not blow it up...lol... Maybe I can check with St Aubins.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Has anyone ever wired one of these QSI Quantums before? 
There is a 12 pin connector on one side and a 10 pin connector on the other. I am positive that the 12 pin side is the side the power and motor hooks to according to the drawing but I do not know what the 10 pin side does? In the adapter I do not see any hook ups in the pictures.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

The 12 pin side is where all connections are made. I use the adapter board and it looks like track pick up pins 1&2 may be connected also pins 11&12 which is track pick up also. Best guess as I'm no electrical dude. Later RJD


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I began wiring it up today and had to modify much of the wiring in order to get it going properly. I had to run a total of 6 wires from the tender to the Loco So I added a disconnection point on the tender. It ended up a little big but will work ok. I got it running and it sounds wonderful. I just need to figure out how to lower the chuff volume and maybe raise the whistle. I tried the read switch but nothing happened. Maybe a stronger magnet is needed


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Got everything up and running. Works like a charm.










Had to be creative for a connecter. Ended up using one from a computer hard drive that I picked up for a dollar.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi, 

The magnets for the reed switches need to have the top surface level with the ties I found. That is with the reed switches under the cross pieces of the tender trucks.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

This is a test to see if the video will work on the forum. I have it on my web site if you can not see it working here.

Sound Video


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Peter, the reed switch is for programming the QSI. You put the reed switch inside the loco and bring a magnet near it outside... You would never put it underneath the loco. 

The programming of the QSI with a magnet can be a bit tricky, but it can be done... did you get the full analog programming manual? You have to download it... it may say it's for HO, but it is the thing you should use. The small "brochure manual" is a waste of time (this is the one that comes with the unit). 

Regards, Greg


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Yes I got the manual. I have not seen anything regarding the reed switch other than volume control and system reset. I will have to read it more carefully then and see maybe I skipped something by mistake. I put my reed switch on the side of the tender on the outside so I know where it is. It should not hurt any there but it is easy enough to move if it poses a problem later down the road.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have not read through the "big" analog manual (the DCC manual is about 265 pages, still digesting!). I think most of it has to do with the sounds being triggered by voltage polarity reversals, like is done by the Quantum engineer. By the way, it's cheap ($45) and a nice way to control 30 different sounds (or is it 32?) with a push of the button on the trackside controller. 

Regards, Greg


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