# Finishing a Bridge - opinions sought



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

So I am just finishing this Howe Truss Bridge based generally on the Garden Railways, Ted Stinson, plans. It is made of cedar. The last one I built lasted about 10 ten years. I am torn between leaving it the natural colour so it shows up better in the garden. The second picture shows where it will ultimately, next spring, reside. On the other hand a dark stain would likely look more prototypical. My fear in staining it is, I'm sure there are glue blots in spots I cannot access to sand out and I used a loctite product to secure the Ozark castings. So thoughts on how a ditute dark paint might work or any other finishing opinions would be appreciated. For what it's worth it, I'm, located in southern Ontario.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Robert,
Nice looking bridge.
IF you choose to stain it, and IF there are any areas where the stain doesn't take, I would touch up just those areas with some colour matching paint, perhaps just hobby acrylic.
May take you a while to get the mix 'right' for the paint, but shouldn't be impossible.
Bit of brown, and a bit of black, and bit of this and that all mixed in a hat!
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Nice looking bridge, great job, unless you have lots of glue, nobody else will notice the glue, go for the stain.
Dennis


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Most railroads creosoted their wood for ties and bridges, etc. I would paint it a dark dark brown, it will add a little protection as well as showing a prototypical color.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

On my bridges I use asphalt roofing cement mixed with mineral spirits. Start with an amount of the mineral spirits about what you need to cover the bridge then add the cement a little at a time until you get a dark but still watery mix. Try it on a scrap and adjust the mixture until you are satisfied with the result. I find that a good coat of this looks very prototypical and protects the wood for several years. 
This is one of my bridges after a year or so of weathering.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

placitassteam said:


> On my bridges I use asphalt roofing cement mixed with mineral spirits. Start with an amount of the mineral spirits about what you need to cover the bridge then add the cement a little at a time until you get a dark but still watery mix. Try it on a scrap and adjust the mixture until you are satisfied with the result. I find that a good coat of this looks very prototypical and protects the wood for several years.
> This is one of my bridges after a year or so of weathering.
> View attachment 60413


Well that's an interesting idea. I will definitely try it on some scrap trestle bends I have. Thanks for the information.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They do indeed make "stains" that are not necessarily transparent, i.e. have a fair amount of solids...


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

They are called *semi-transparent stains*.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

yep, although the naming is not consistent among brands, so I identified the function too..


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Cedar or not, it will weather and deteriorate. On my similar bridge I found a semi-solid stain color I liked (a darkish gray) which both colors and protects the wood. I then apply it about every 4 months or so. Don't worry about any spots not taking stain, no one will notice and it will probably weather up in due time anyway. And by the way, suggest using one of the blackening products for your exposed brass fasteners and rods. Great looking bridge.

Jerry


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Naptowneng said:


> Cedar or not, it will weather and deteriorate. On my similar bridge I found a semi-solid stain color I liked (a darkish gray) which both colors and protects the wood. I then apply it about every 4 months or so. Don't worry about any spots not taking stain, no one will notice and it will probably weather up in due time anyway. And by the way, suggest using one of the blackening products for your exposed brass fasteners and rods. Great looking bridge.
> 
> Jerry


Thanks Jerry. Yes I blackened Ozark casting details and was wondering what to do about my brass tie rods.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Robert- So I guess you have blackening chemicals on hand. I use JAX pewter black or brass bronze and copper darkener.. A bottle lasts a very long time. Show us a photo when you are done with your finishing
Jerry


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Naptowneng said:


> Robert- So I guess you have blackening chemicals on hand. I use JAX pewter black or brass bronze and copper darkener.. A bottle lasts a very long time. Show us a photo when you are done with your finishing
> Jerry


I have a blackening product that works well on the soft Ozarks castings, black patina for lead and solder and Novacan black patina for zinc. I'll see what they do to the brass. Yes they last! I'm on bottles I bought 10 years ago. Funny, the bottle of tequila never lasts that long.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the pointer Jerry. Blackening the brass tie rods made a great difference. Next off to find some paint, stain or roof tar this week.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Great Job! 
Someday i would like to try this


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## [email protected] (Dec 28, 2018)

Wonderful job on the bridge. We stain our bridge/trestles with Behr stain - "Cinders". Has a cool RR name and looks like creosote when applied.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Gentlemen thank you for the input and advice. You were so right recommending adding colour. Now if it would only warm back up so I can "plant" it in the garden.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Very nice looking bridge! Thanks for sharing and inspiring

Jerry


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