# LGB Porter (Daisy)



## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Ever have one of those days when you'd like to take the engine you're working on, and throw it across the room? I'm having one of those days...

A couple summers ago, while running my Daisy, it stopped moving. When I got up to it, I could hear the motor turning, but it wasn't moving. Took it apart to find the plastic gears on the axles were melted and worn away.
I ordered a set of replacement axles from OnlyTrains.com and when they arrived, found out they were a different pitch than what came off. I called OnlyTrains, and they told me the axles weren't for the Korean made Daisy, which after closer inspection, I found a "Made in Korea" stamp on the bottom of the motor case. So packed it all back up in the box, and tossed it on a shelf in the garage.

Pulled it out today, and figured I could still use it if I purchased a powered tender, but I'd have to remove the gears from either the axles, or the motor, or possible find a matching pitch worm gear for the motor. I can't seem to figure out how to remove the motor from the chassis, it appears to have been pre-cast into the chassis, there doesn't seem to be a split in the case to separate the bottom of the motor mount from the top.

Any suggestions? or is this $99 engine going to end up as a piece of scenery?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I can't remember exactly and I only ever buy the German ones but I think you have to take the entire loco boiler and cab etc. off. You can then remove the top plate which is held on by 2 screws. There are two tiny srcews underneath adjacent to the cylinders that hold that end of the boiler. Below are some links that may have the gears you need if you want it to go again. Best to contact them and ask whether their gears will suit the Korean LGB model specifying the pitch of the gears. Good luck!

http://www.allaboutlgb.com/lgb%20replacement%20gears.html

http://www.nwsl.com/

https://www.trainli.com/

Andrew


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Trust me, when I bought the loco at a hobbyshop back in the early '90's, I saw the red box with white and green stripes, with the LGB logo, I thought I was buying the real thing.

I'd like to find a manual or blow up of all the parts for this model, Model # 2077D


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Casey is the real deal. There are others too. I think the Korean ones (Rusty, Daisy etc.) run OK but the plastic used can crack, especially the covers if over tightened. 
Alternatively, as you said you could chase up a worm gear to suit your new axle gears. There must be blown motors sitting in someone's parts box. Just make sure the shaft size is the same.

Andrew


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Got the boiler off, the 2 tiny screws adjacent to the cylinders I had taken off earlier, but couldn't find any for the rear, so in an attempt to separate the bottom chassis from the boiler, I started working it back and forth, because I wasn't finding any screws on the rear of the chassis, and it was still stuck together. Turns out, they had put 2 little dabs of hot glue on the rear of the circuit board, and that was hindering the separation. When I pulled the boiler from the chassis, I now find 3 wires inside under the circuit board. there's a green, brown and white wire, all have a tiny bullet connector on them that attach to 3 metal pre-bent wires, (2 for motor contacts, brown & white, which are imprinted on the lower chassis and 1 green wire that on the chassis attaches to a pre-bent wire, that on the bottom of the chassis, doesn't go anywhere). On the other end of the green wire, it looks like a soldered end. When I pulled it apart, I didn't see where the soldered end came off of, any ideas?

The green wire went to the pre-bent wire that went thru 1 terminal of the motor.
The white wire went to a pre-bent wire that went thru the other terminal of the motor, and makes contact with one side of the loco power contacts.
The brown wire went to a pre-bent wire that makes contact with the other side of the loco contacts, but not to the motor.
I wonder if the loose green wire end is supposed to be soldered to the brown wire bullet connector?

Found it, there's a vacant middle terminal on the circuit board, between the brown and white.

I'm not very good at electrical connections, I know enough to get a jolt once in a while.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Thanks for the help today Andrew!

Another question I have pertaining to this engine, a few threads down, a fellow member asked about the 2 plugs at the back of the boiler for converting to battery power. If I get a powered tender, battery or track powered, and plug into these 2 terminals, will all the functions of the engine still work, headlight, cab light, and smoke?


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Mike.

The terminals are there to supply power for passenger car lighting. You will still have power on the loco from the wheels and pick-up shoes anyway, even if you remove the motor/gears. If you run from battery you don't really want the battery power to get back to the track so any track power source should be disconnected. The smoker/lights etc. should work if power is supplied via the loco terminals. None of mine have circuit boards so I'm not sure if that will effect things.

The occasional jolt is there to remind you not to do what you are doing from the top of a ladder. 

Andrew


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Thanks Andrew, and LOL!


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I just found this. From what George says the terminals are only 5 volts output (for car lighting) so NO don't feed power into them to run the motor or smoke unless you rewire things. Like I said none of mine (Casey) have smoke or circiut boards.

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips9/lehmann_porter_tips.html

Andrew


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Ok, and thanks for the link! that's exactly the information I was looking for


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

At Train li we have both porter gears, check for stock on hand. The fine gears are metal and the coarse ones are plastic.
Early porters were 18 volt light and smoke, newer versions were digital/DC and had 5 volt lamps. If the light is screwed in then it is 18 volt for sure. Jacks on the rear are track voltage.
I have repaired many of these porter gears this year.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

The plastic cover over the axles on the bottom of the loco has a date of 1991, and the cab light is a screw in bulb.
I no longer have the original axles, because I tossed them when I purchased the new ones. The original axles had solid black wheels, and the new ones are red spokes. The tooth count on the new axle gears is 20.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I wil be at Trainli Tuesday, call and ask for me (Dan) after 10AM EST. I can check to see if the coarse gear with axle and wheels are in stock, or just a pair of gears. I know there are the finer metal gears available.

If possible, take a picture of the present motor and new axles and post it here and/or send it to trainli.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Dan, it'll be the weekend before I can get those pics posted, I'm working late every day this week


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I checked and Trainli does have a pair of the 20 tooth porter 'coarse) gears and a set brass (more than 20 teeth) gears.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Got our first big snowfall this past weekend, and was out plowing, so I will attempt to take those pics on Friday.


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