# Accucraft Ruby speed improovement.



## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok here is another one i want to share with you in a case you haven't already try it. The biggest problem of Ruby is that it is a quiet fast loco, it can't run at slow speed so it doesn't look scale specially if you run it in a small layout. A year ago a good Gentleman from this forum among some other things he send me a pair of silicon piston o-rings. Few days ago i made some last modifications on my Ruby. I was installed a summerlands chuffer, *in a case you haven't one this is a MUST HAVE accessory, just buy one, * and also replaced the original o-rings with the silicon ones. Well the ''downgrade'' speed improvement is really great, now my Ruby runs really slow at scale speed and running time is also extended. Not to mention that chuffer and slow speed combination makes it even better.


Thomas


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well another way to control the speed is to R/C the loco then you can control it to run constant speeds. What I did and it does great. Later RJD


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## roadranger (Jan 6, 2008)

Thomas - just curious, does your engine have the newer 1/2 in. dia. pistons, or the earlier smaller sized? Any machining necessary to install the new o-rings? 
I also run Chuffers on all of my engines, it really brings the engine to life sound wise, highly recommended.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By roadranger on 18 Feb 2013 02:59 PM 
Thomas - just curious, does your engine have the newer 1/2 in. dia. pistons, or the earlier smaller sized? Any machining necessary to install the new o-rings? 
I also run Chuffers on all of my engines, it really brings the engine to life sound wise, highly recommended. 

Jim, 
I have been using Silicone orings on most of my locos for years. Its a great improvement on any engine. There is typically no change so long as you are using the same size Oring. I keep the common sizes on hand for replacement and repair

Jay


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## davemare (Jan 19, 2013)

I have an Ida and see similar problems. Being new to this, two questions

1. what is a summerlands chuffer and ho does it work? This is a new term to me

2. Where can you purchase silcon orings?

thanks


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The biggest problem of Ruby is that it is a quiet fast loco, it can't run at slow speed 
Ah! You are not the first person to make that observation!







There's a few threads around here on Ruby issues. Try googling "site:mylargescale.com ruby issues"

One solution is to give it something to pull. A long (or short) heavy train does wonders and improves the chuff, (while making run times shorter.)


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## Chris B (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words about the Chuffer Thomas! 
Dave you can find out all about it here: 
www.summerlands-chuffer.co.uk 
or ask either Mark at Silver State or Jason at The Train Department 

Coincidentally, an oldish Ebay Ruby No 1arrived here about an hour ago and has steamed already on the bench. It may well get a conversion to 32mm as I have no 45mm track and also some servicing as although it runs, it doesn't self start....yet! 

Cheers 
Chris


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you guys see a difference in performance between Viton and Silicone O-rings?


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## Chris B (Oct 18, 2009)

Well I replaced the original black O rings with red silicone ones that I just happend to have in stock this afternoon (thanks Thomas!). Huge difference and it now self starts. Shame I didn't have a spare E-clip in stock - I knew it was risky, but then I knew what I was doing...... and then .........it was gone into the wastland of my workshop. A thin piece of wire is serving until I get some ....... 
Cheers 
Chris


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Posted By davemare on 19 Feb 2013 08:29 AM 
I have an Ida and see similar problems. Being new to this, two questions

1. what is a summerlands chuffer and ho does it work? This is a new term to me

2. Where can you purchase silcon orings?

thanks


Drifting off topic... but here is the Summerlands chuffer. I have one on a Lady Anne. It works well especially when under load.
www.summerlands-chuffer.co.uk/ 
http://www.youtube.com/user/Summerlandsteam 

Andrew


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

You can fit a large 1/2 inch bore Ruby cylinder kit to slow it down.
Accucraft e-store spare parts. 










Andrew


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By davemare on 19 Feb 2013 08:29 AM 
I have an Ida and see similar problems. Being new to this, two questions

1. what is a summerlands chuffer and ho does it work? This is a new term to me

2. Where can you purchase silcon orings?

thanks


Dave, 
I have silicone Orings to fit the locos. I also have spare E clips for the rods should you want to try and replace them. Is your Ira old or new? The older ones have 3/8" cylinders that are brass color and the new have 1/2" cylinders that are painted.

The chuffer is basically a sound enhancing pipe that fits onto the exhaust and works like a whistle but amplifying each beat to a more audible sound. Should you want to hear it there are many videos around on the site. http://www.summerlands-chuffer.co.u...4535137014


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## Chris B (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for posting that old video Andrew - I had forgotten about that one as it is very nearly four years ago! Hopefully I have learned a bit about filming and editing in the hundred or so videos since then ;-) 

On the subject of O rings, when the reulator was opened on Ruby, but she didn't self start, there was clear evidence of blow-by, with steam issuing from the stack. This could, of course be due to other things, but the O rings proved to be a safe bet and there is now no blow-by. I just wish I had a 45mm track to run her on..... so I must get my head round the re-gauging.... 
Cheers 
Chris


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## kleinbahn (Sep 21, 2010)

I would think that someone with the username "Gordini" would like small things that go fast! 

Yes Chris, following the regauge thread on the 16mm steam Yahoo group with interest.


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## Allan Bray (Sep 28, 2011)

I'm building a Ruby kit now, which I think has the smaller cylinders. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could find silicone o-rings of appropriate size? 

Also: Another problem I ran into was that when I air-tested the engine, I was getting leaks through the gasket between the valve chest and the cylinder. I've bought some thicker gasket paper which I will be shortly cutting to fit, and will try that to see if it seals it up. I don't have any experience here but I'm guessing that if it's leaking at 5-10 psi with air, it will certainly leak with steam at a higher pressure. Anyone have any thoughts on this? 

Finally - I'd like to install front pilot wheels to change the engine to a 2-4-0. Does anyone have any drawings or photos that would show how to do this? Or, can you point me to where I might be able to find something?


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Allan Bray on 03 Mar 2013 08:32 AM 
I'm building a Ruby kit now, which I think has the smaller cylinders. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could find silicone o-rings of appropriate size? 

Also: Another problem I ran into was that when I air-tested the engine, I was getting leaks through the gasket between the valve chest and the cylinder. I've bought some thicker gasket paper which I will be shortly cutting to fit, and will try that to see if it seals it up. I don't have any experience here but I'm guessing that if it's leaking at 5-10 psi with air, it will certainly leak with steam at a higher pressure. Anyone have any thoughts on this? 

Finally - I'd like to install front pilot wheels to change the engine to a 2-4-0. Does anyone have any drawings or photos that would show how to do this? Or, can you point me to where I might be able to find something? 

The leak be a simple fix. Did you coat the gaskets with steam oil when you assembled? Also sometimes the valve chest is not parallel with the cylinders when you first assemble the kit. Might take a little more pressure on the screws to tighten up. Leak on the inside or the outside of the chest?. You can also slightly twist the chest in the direction of the leak just a hair though or the opposite side may leak.. Just be careful of stripping the screws. 
Adding the pilot truck is pretty simple, I attached mine to a plate that I soldered onto the front frame spreader. Photo complete here http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/steam/ruby/JKovacRuby.jpg

Also here is a whole page of great Ruby based engines. http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/steam/ruby/rubygallery.htm

You can see some some photos of the pilot here as I just uploaded a few. I had a whole build log but it got lost when servers were changed. That's history.


As for Orings for the original cylinders they are 3/8" OD. I do have them on hand if you need a pair rather then a lifetime supply bulk bag.. Just message me direct.


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