# Air Switches...



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

I know a few use them, but I really haven't found a ton of info on them in regards to install and use.

I'm currently suspending a loop of track from the ceiling in my garage. However the loop will have a siding and a spur. I'm currently using LGB track I have on hand and R3 switches they are already equipped with EPL machines. I figured I could just wire them with DPDT switches from teh accesory output side of my transformer.

I was thinking air powered actuators and indicators might be a more reliable safer and expandable method of control.

The garage already has air lines.

So is it worth converting? Should I stick to the traditional EPL machine and save money, seeing that I'm already planning on track power? Which is easier to expand? I have R1 swiches with no machine...

Opinions would be appriciated.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*[url]http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/air-operated-switches-mainmenu-101*[/url]

Greg


----------



## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, just a FYI noticed two typos on the page.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Steve! Fixed, and cleaned up the page a bit... 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

Thanks for the link Greg, although I think I've already read your entire site, some parts more than once. Very helpful but my post was really aimed at view points.

Although there were a few questions, basic schematics really, on how the system is intended to be setup. I didn't really get a clear picture reading your info. Could be these tired eyes...


----------



## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Pretty much evrything you need to know.
http://www.cocry.com/E-Z_Air.htm


----------



## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used air switches for years. They are great and are not affected by weather. Unlike Greg's setup, my use is much more simplified. I built a small box with a panel depicting a schematic of my layout. I mounted the air switches in the panel. Inside the box I had a manifold that distributed air to the switches. On the input to the manifold I mounted a small regulator that was fed from a tank like the one Greg shows.

I ran all the tubes out the back of the box to each individual air piston.

All components mentioned above are available from C&OCRY.

If you would like to see some pictures let me know and I'll post a few.

Doc


----------



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

I guess what I'm stuck on is that when pressurized the actuator moves the points to the diverging route. What gets me is when you throw the valve the other way what bleeds the air and what holds the points inline for the main? I always assumed that there are 2 lines to the actuator and that the valve regulated between the two keeping pressure on the points either way. From what I've read that is not the case.


----------



## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

The air piston is held in its "off" position by an internal spring. When you throw the air switch on your panel it applies air (force) to the piston to throw your turnout (switch). When you throw the air switch in the opposite direction, it bleeds the air and the internal spring pulls the air piston back to the "off" position.

There is plenty of throw in these air pistons to really hold the turnout in each postion. You adjust the tension on the turnout by sliding the air piston back and forth in its holder.

Here's a picture of one of my LGB turnouts with a piston installed.











Here's another photo of one of my installations showing how one of these pistions can be used to also turn power of and on to a siding.











If you have any other questions I'll be glad to try and help.

Doc


----------



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

That makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Just to be crystal, the bleed off of pressure that lets the spring return happens at the point where you apply pressure, not at the switch. Whether you use a manual toggle switch (looks just like SPST electrical toggle, just has 2 air fittings instead of 2 solder lugs) or if you use DC solenoids like I do. 

This way, a single hose and nothing to get grit or dirt. One moving part in the air motor. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

Yup I got that part, Thanks Greg! The attractive part is the single hose. I also like the prospects of DC solenoids coupled with DCC, very cool!

Although when walking through the garden, I admit it would be cool to actually have switch stand to move. But I suppose I should save those for 1/8 scale trains...LOL


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You could connect a bellcrank to the air motor to turn the switch stand....

You might also be able to talk Stretch into making some custom stuff... let me ask you this first: Do you need the air motors that also control a microswitch to power a frog or lights, or can you use just the simple one?

If you use the simple one, add a bellcrank and you should be able to turn a switch stand easily. I can also think of a simple idea if you use the larger motors with the microswitch.


I think it would be simple, and just call Stretch and ask him what he thinks, he's a great guy and has lots of parts and ideas.

Regards, Greg


----------



## Bighurt (Sep 15, 2009)

I don't need the microswitch atm, just LGB R3 switches.

I was actually referring to off scale switch stand so that you got the feeling of being in the operation. I think your idea of the switch stand is the best scale idea to the application.


----------

