# My Aristo loco Squeaks



## mjll1958 (Jan 2, 2016)

What should I use to lubricate it and how should I apply it


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Does it squeak all the time, just on curves, when power is applied and it is upside down (not on the tracks), etc.? What type of engine is it, steam, diesel? What is the exact engine? We really need more information to narrow the squeak down! Lubrication instructions should have come with the engine. Try a Google search for the engine number and instructions.

A plastic compatible oil is required. Labell's and Bachmann make them. A general hobby shop should have something. Some use synthetic motor. What ever you use use it sparingly. A drop should be enough on each bearing point.

Chuck


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't believe Aristo ever gave instructions on lubrication. They do advertise the "prime mover" gearbox as permanently lubed... hmm...

Mjll, what loco do you have and we can give you specific information.

Greg


----------



## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

On the four axle diesels...
Sometimes a squeak is merely the wheel or wheel screw rubbing against the faux journal box or brake shoes. Older aristo engines also have wheel bushings in the side frames that can squeak. If you use track power use a conductive lubricant for this, for battery duty Mobil1 oil works well. For the internal gearing, I prefer mobil1 grease, but rarely do the gears cause a squeak.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Barry Olsen (Barry's Big Trains) recommends a synthetic grease called "Super Lube" for his gearboxes. I've been using it since he sent some to me with one of his drives, and I've found it to work very well. Whenever I take apart a drive for whatever reason, I put a little of that on it before I re-assemble it. 

Beyond that, I've found a drop of synthetic oil on the wheel bearings from time to time keeps the squeaks at bay. Chuck mentioned LaBelle and Bachmann as suppliers. I've also heard folks using Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I've not tried that myself, as I find motor oil typically thicker than I'd like for just putting a very small drop here and there. "Plastic-compatible" is the key, which is why most folks gravitate towards the LaBelle and Bachmann oils. They're oils chosen specifically to be compatible with model trains.

Later,

K


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Still need to know what model of Aristo. Some of Kevin's advice does not apply depending on what you have.

Please indicate what loco you have... model, and manufacturing year if possible (most Aristo locos have the date of manufacture on them)


Greg


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Curious, Greg, why would you would single out my specific product references as not necessarily being applicable when others have suggested similar products in response to the issue?

We're all taking "shotgun" approaches to solving the squeak because we have very little information to go on. Of course, if we're able to narrow things down a bit (such as, the squeak only occurs once per revolution of the driver or somesuch), we can fine tune our response not only to which specific kind of lubricant to use, but also which parts of the drive are likely the culprit. 

I've had these two kinds of lubricants in my toolbox for 40 years. There's not a squeak that's come from my trains that one of these two hasn't silenced. 

Later,

K


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mostly because your suggestions even mention opening the gearbox, which on certain Aristo locos is a no no for most people... and also you were the last person commenting...

We need to know the specific loco to give more specific information, so don't try taking it apart yet (this is to the op)

Greg


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I would agree with the notion that there's no need to rebuild the transmission in your car if it's your brakes that are squealing. Obviously, the source of the "squeak" needs to be further narrowed down before a definitive diagnostic and repair procedure can be recommended. I mentioned opening gearboxes in the context of an example of where and how I personally use synthetic greases. If one were to read into those comments that I felt mjll1958 should simply strip his loco down to the bare essentials, I would say they're reading a whole lot more into my comments than what I actually wrote.

Having said that, I think modelers should know how to (and not be afraid to) tear into a locomotive for routine maintenance. That includes opening and inspecting gearboxes if there's reason to suspect they may be a source of concern. It's something I was taught at a very early age, and it has served me well over the years. Maybe that familiarity keeps me from fully appreciating how daunting the task may be to others, so perhaps it may be a case of me writing about a task I find simple which others read as "first, make an incision in the base of the cranial cortex..."

Later,

K


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Clearly you know nothing about the drivetrains of certain Aristo locos.

I don't mind that, just don't want a newbie to attempt it without warning.

Why don't we just wait for further info without falling all over ourselves ...


----------



## mjll1958 (Jan 2, 2016)

I cleaned the wheels and removed a lot of black stuff and that helped a great deal. The loco is a U25B and was bought about 20 years ago


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

What radius/diameter are you using? That "black stuff" is most likely very fine brass dust. This comes from the harder metal wheels on the engine grinding the inside of the rail head. The squeak you heard is probably the grinding.

Chuck


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Good to hear (or, in this case, no longer hear.  ) After 20 years, a little drop of oil on the axle bearings and motor shaft bearings probably wouldn't hurt. 

Later,

K


----------



## SparkyJoe (Oct 14, 2012)

East Broad Top said:


> Good to hear (or, in this case, no longer hear.  ) After 20 years, a little drop of oil on the axle bearings and motor shaft bearings probably wouldn't hurt.
> 
> Later,
> 
> K


Kevin,
Did you clear your latest response with Greg ?


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Oil on the axle won't do a thing for the ball bearing. If you have a thin needle oiler perhaps you can get into the bearing.

Greg

p.s. bite me SparkyJoe


----------



## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Oil on the axle won't do a thing for the ball bearing. If you have a thin needle oiler perhaps you can get into the bearing.
> 
> Greg
> 
> p.s. bite me SparkyJoe


I am confused i could not find a post that said put oil on the axle,other posts said axle bearing.
but my U boat is just as old and it has bearings or you could call them bushings in the side frames and i do put a drop of oil on that out side axle end.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

because it took 11 posts before the loco was identified. There are all kinds of variations on Aristo motive power... only locos over 18 years old had bushings instead of ball bearings. 

http://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=354&Itemid=398

First section... loco has to be over 18 years old... and the U25B is not a popular loco. By far the chances were that this was a newer loco with ball bearings.

That's why instead of jumping the gun with "take apart the gearbox" advice, it is wise to get the model and year of manufacture.

If you have ever tried to disassemble a prime mover motor block and pull apart a gearbox, you will understand why I rankle at giving advice that can damage a loco.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Greg. Information we needed was not provided by the op. I'm still not convinced, that his radius might not not be the source of the squeak. 

Chuck

When you ask a question, it shouldn't take four days for the OP To respond to our questions. End of rant.


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

QUOTE: When you ask a question, it shouldn't take four days for the OP To respond to our questions. End of rant. 

Chuck, with all due respect, it appears that 'mjill' joined this forum just this year, and I'm willing to bet he/she has other things that possibly occupy the day, maybe still working, taking care of a family or even other interests.
IMHO four days isn't long to wait for a response to a ???. What I saw in the 9 posts in between his/her two seems to have been posturing and differences of opinion. 
This is a HOBBY def: "an activity done regularly in ones LEISURE TIME for pleasure". My observation of what happens here is those that are obsessed with it seem to loose the pleasure of it. Being CORRECT is all that matters. Others opinions are not to be considered,and in some cases ridiculed. Personal attacks on another just shows the depth of the obsession, not the degree of knowledge. 
Since leaving work last April I am fortunate to have time to come here daily, usually very early in the AM. 
This isn't a rant, only a statement. Thank You.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

When you post just to post, I agree. If you are having a problem, ask for help and don't check at least the next day, it's, well, kind of rude.

You are asking people to help you. You are the beneficiary. Appreciating help is a good way to get helped again.

Anyone who has joined the forum and not noticed activity, well, then they aren't paying much attention.

The time to pay attention is when you are new, make mistakes, and learn.

End of rant...

p.s. I read forums for years before I made my first post. I read tips on the Internet on how to post, etc. It is humanly possible.


----------



## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

NickJr

I have to disagree. There were nine responces over the 4 days to the OPs original question. Several asked the same question. What is the engine? All sorts of valid comments and suggestions were offered. What is our time worth? I try to offer help when asked. More often than not more information is needed. When that added information isn't coming, in a reasonable tme, I tend to wonder if I have wasted my time trying to help. 

The OP is new and, hopefully, a constructive comment will assist his future communications.

Chuck

PS, I'd still like to know the diameter/radius of his curves. I've had more squeak from track over the years, than from anything else.


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry so late in posting, I also have other things in my life that need attention, I was also really RUNNING trains, not just posting about them. 
I was not aware of a time line of what is considered appropriate to reply to a question in a forum. I stick to my original post, OTHER THINGS ARE MORE IMPORTANT IN LIFE THAN OUR TOYS, and that is what they are. 
I also seem to be under a serious misconception, I thought we posted here to help other train enthusiast's and further our hobby, not denigrate others because they didn't fulfill our needs like answering a question in what you consider a proper time line.
You that feel that your time and key strokes are so important they shouldn't be wasted on they that are unappreciative, simply don't post, I'm sure you offer nothing that isn't available elsewhere. 
RUDE or lets just say DISRESPECTFUL, please, don't even go there. thank you.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Telling other people that: " I'm sure you offer nothing that isn't available elsewhere." but them telling them they are RUDE.... 

Isn't that the pot calling the kettle black.

And your argument makes no sense:

If you feel unappreciated don't post in the first place?

That's not the issue. There is common courtesy on BOTH sides, both the person asking the question and the people answering.

This is about a newbie asking a question and then going away after several people try to help but need more information.

THAT is RUDE...

Greg


----------



## Peter Eaton (Mar 11, 2015)

I've had it with this forum. Arguing about what is rude and not rude wastes my time. Adios.


----------

