# cOUPLERS



## steelwheels360 (Feb 5, 2013)

Hi, my name is Cole, i do custom weathering in all scales. over the last year i began working on G scale. for the sake of authenticity i would like to begin replacing the g scale loop couplers with knuckle couplers. is there a process or best practice anyone would be willing to share? what are the simpelist most versitile couplers to work with? i work primarily in HO and was introduced to large scales (O & G) by a client last year. any help is greatly appreciated.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Cole - Yeah, I don't undertand why the manufacturers of contemporary rolling stock (Aristo-Craft and USA Trains) give us those hook & loop couplers. I'm not aware of any contemporary U.S. railroad that used anything but knuckles. Happily they also provide us with their own knuckle couplers, although they're not too handy for switching maneuvers if your track is on the ground, as mine is. 

For the most part, their knuckles work well with others of the same brand. For pulling cars from both manufacturers, I made up a few "transition cars" by swapping a truck from one manufacturer with one from the other. This way, a USAT engine can pull a string of A/C cars without trying to mate couplers of somewhat different designs. 

Since my goal is to do fairly life-like switching on my railroad, I'm in the process of switching out my couplers for Kadees. If your railroad isn't toooo big, it won't cost an arm & a leg, but it isn't cheap either. But, in my mind, Kadees look more accurate and can couple and uncouple without me getting down on my knees. The other caveat is that installing Kadees isn't just a quick swap as it is in HO. But you'll find a lot of help in the "rolling stock" section of this website as well as on Greg's website. (You'll find out who Greg is if you don't know already. His website has tons - even scads - of helpful information.) 

JackM


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## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

How authentic do you want them? Here is my _personal_ analysis of standard gauge couplers knuckle couplers


Aristocraft....Looks oversize in photos, generally works well, does not typically pull apart on longer trains on a grade, easy to install, have to "bash" together when coupling. 

USA and Bachman....I have trouble keeping them coupled together. USA looks a little better than Aristo. They will couple into Aristo if you manually slide them down a closed knuckle.

Kadee About the best looking. Generally works well, but I have had some pull aparts on longer trains up grade. Can be a real pain to install. Most sensitive to height adjustment. Couples easily when switching. Cost extra....Is it worth it???? You decide. 


Those are MY opinions. Others have theirs. 

Tom P


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You mentioned you want to change from hook and loop to a knuckle to make it authentic. 

Then you ask for the simplest, most versatile. 

Without a doubt, the answer to that question is Kadee couplers, in 2 sizes to choose from. 

They have by far the broadest list of models available with an even broader list of draft gear.  

There are couplers that are somewhat more realistic, but no way more versatile or "simple" . 

Go to the Kadee site and look at all the options available. 

Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

If your goal is accurate modeling I think the AML/Accucraft 1:32 coupler are the most realistic:

http://www.accucraftestore.com/index.php?productID=788

They also come in 1:20, but I think some 1:20 people use the 1:32 couplers, because they look better. There was a thread about them here sometime about a year ago I think;

Here's the thread I was thinking of

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

The KayDees are ok, but I'm with lownote, the AML/Accucraft are the most ralistic of our choices. The KD trip pin is their own invention, it kinda looks like air hoses, but kinda doesn't when true hoses are present. 
The biggest complaint with the AML couplers I've read is cut levers snag on vegatation and come undone... I think those levers are too long and not tucked within the width of the car body... 

If your track is rough and uneven (with dips and doodles) your best bet may be Aristocraft's shelf type knuckle, they get stiff with age and take a fairly firm bump to couple, but tend to stay together. 

Delton made a similar lift pin coupler, but over sized... 
The hook and loops are an LGB offering and of European sensibility, they work well on tight curves.... 

Happy Rails 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think the answer depends on the priorities of the OP... 

He says TWO things, the first is more realistic than hook and loop, but the last specification is "what are the simpelist most versitile couplers to work with?" 

So, maybe we need him to clarify the #1 priority, realistic or simple & versatile? 

I'm with John and Mike on what is more realistic, but I don't read the OP as this is the top priority. 

The new Kadees look pretty realistic, and, again, I submit are way more versatile. 









And you can cut the uncoupling arm off if you want.


Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

The simplist way to get away from the hook and loop couplers is to use the 909 G gauge or 1909 #1 / 1/32 scale Kadee couplers mounted to the trucks. They won't look as realistic as body mount couplers, but a lot less work is needed to make them work. If you are using anything less than 8 foot diameter curves or switches, beware that body mount coupler on longer cars will most likely not work. For me, I have 8 foot dia curves on my mainline and one pass through siding. But the rest of my side tracks have either 4 foot switches or some 4 foot diameter curves as the layout is confined to a small area in my garage. A long, Aristo Craft flat car, 100 ton hopper and a USAT 70 ton coal hopper all with body mount couplers will not traverse the side tracks without derailing as the wheels hit the coupler gear boxes.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

You didn't say that you really run trains, but only that you "weather" them. If you're not running equipment, then you probably are using couplers one or two at a time. 

You also say you're looking for authenticity, and for that reason you want to replace hook and loop (H&L) couplers. 

If that's all complete and true, I would use Kadee Number 1 body mounted couplers. As others have stated, they make a lot of them. I've used the long ones with coupler box, the short ones, and sometimes just the straight shaft kind. But all body mounted (that's what the big boys do) and No.1 size. That's 1:32 scale, but the G ones seem oversized to me anyway.


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

A size comparison of Kadee "#1 scale" to Kadee "G scale" (and Aristo-Craft) couplers may be helpful.
I believe the #1 coupler was scaled for 1/32, whereas, the G coupler was scaled for 1/24 - though used by most folks on 1/29 scale rolling stock and locos.










-Ted


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Oh Boy! I love putting words into the OP's mouth.... 

I think that by the time you get to Weathering you have done some FineScaling to your model.... and making the most prototypical work is more important accepting less for ease. 

Just my humble thinking 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I'm sitting back until the OP can clarify priorities. Like I said, I read a different priority that some others have. 

But it's all speculation at this point in my opinion. 

Greg


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## steelwheels360 (Feb 5, 2013)

WOW! thanks ALL for responding. this info is a tremendous help. i just turned 41 and and the dreams of retirement are a little closer than they were when I was 31. I have been into HO for about 5 or 6 years. Just basically collecting cars, weathering, and waiting for the days of working on my HO scale basement layout...but seeing G scale has given me something to think about. anyway, i like the kadee idea as that seems to be the popular opinion, but also because i am familiar with their product from HO. Kadee is among the best that I have used. While I’m not running any trains, I do need to be sure the trains are roadworthy. Based on the responses and a little common sense, it may be best to keep at least one of each style and retrofit with whatever a customer may require in a coupler. I just purchased this on ebay by the time im done this will be a standard private greybelly covered hopper. but i know LGB uses the hook and loop style. Ironically, i have done this exact same project in HO scale with these yellow shell hoppers. so now that i have a better understanding of couplers in G scale, where is the best place to get decals for G scale..?


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Decals are harder to come by in g than in other scales. When I've needed custom decals I've generally gone to stan cederleaf, who posts frequently here and who prints decals on an Alps printer. This outfit



http://modernrails.com/g-cal-decals-decals-for-large-scale-trains.html




Offers a wide range of decals. I've never dealt with them.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't forget Del Tapparo who does excellent vinyl: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/ 

Greg


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