# How Did He Do That???



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

With the Tool of course! Seems that in addition to replacing worn out and broken ties, the tool can be used to easily fill ties into those unsightly gaps left at the rail joiners.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

A bloody marketing genius he is ... what?


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## Gary Woolard (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll 'nibble' at this one, Todd. Can your magic gandy dancer simply _remove_ the occasional tie, for those of us who like the hardscrabble, backwoods narrow gauge look?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Now if you can just get the Sham-Wow guy to pitch it on late night TV......


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

...


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 21 Oct 2009 06:36 PM 
Posted By Gary Woolard on 21 Oct 2009 05:36 PM 
I'll 'nibble' at this one, Todd. Can your magic gandy dancer simply _remove_ the occasional tie, for those of us who like the hardscrabble, backwoods narrow gauge look? It is not for the removal but for the installation of ties. Removal has never been the problem and happens all too often.

At this point, I've been compiling the paper work and drawings for a patent. I left a preliminary write-up with my next door neighbor who is a patent attorney and said he would help me out. In addition to the tool, I will try to patent the "technique" which would prohibit others from using a similar method of putting ties on the track.

I can apply for a patent at a cost $110 and that protects (ties up) my idea for 1 year. I can then get a 1-year extension. If I don't get a patent after that, its open for public taking with all drawings disclosed from the date of application. The patent would cost about $10K. 

Another option is to go right into production. I've contacted a US based wire former to make the adjunct ($4,000 set-up and $2,000 minimum order for just the adjunct) as well as a Chinese manufacturer (awaiting quote), to go into production. A local machine shop will make the adjunct for $70/hr and that may be a way to go also.


I came up with the idea to replace these ties. This would have required me to rip up the track, clean off the solder, and redo it all after putting new ties on, literally taking hours. The complexity was compounded by the adjacent turnouts that did not allow easy movement of the track even after the joiners were undone. With the tool, it took a couple minutes.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Un update:

We have now located and met with a US manufacturer who can produce the wire forms and have quotes for same. We've also located an Eastern supplier who can provide the automotive portion of the tool and are hoping to receive a sample for evaluation. It looks like we should be able to bring this to market for ~$15 if distributed through retail suppliers/outlets and maybe $10 if we handled the sales and distribution ourselves.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

We've received the sample of the automotive tool from China today. Unforetunately, the quality does not meet our high standards and we perceive a higher than hoped for failure/return rate. The US manufacture of the unit that we had used in the development and initial tests will not sell to us directly unless we become a distributor for their entire tool line. As such, we have decided not to go into production of the Re-Tie-R tool.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

What tool are we discussing here? Got any pictures?


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Well maybe now at least you can show us what you were talking about ?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Mike Reilley on 13 Nov 2009 03:57 PM 
What tool are we discussing here? Got any pictures? 

External snap ring pliers.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I use the snap ring pliers to make an "anchor spreader." _An anchor spreader is an actual piece of MOW equipment_ that is intended to do what my device does, albiet using much different means.

Snap ring pliers are typically used for installing the clips used to hold round objects in place such as the wrist pin in an automotive piston or a wheel on an axle. They look like an ordinary set of pliers except that the head usually comes to a point, sometimes at an angle, or allows the attachment/insertion of pointed pieces of wire with which the circlip is held. On an “external” snap ring pliers, when you squeeze the handle, the jaws open, to expand the snap ring, rather than close as on standard pliers. For this project, look for a snap ring pliers that allows for the insertion of the wire bits, held with screws as opposed to one that has interchangeable “heads.” The one I use is manufactured by KD Tools (KD 442 now replaced by KD 446), and is available at tool outlets. I also found one that uses the wire inserts at the _Kragen/O’Reilly_ _Auto Parts_ stores marketed under the Power Built label.

We’ll construct our own “jaws” that will be used to spread the anchors (plastic tabs) apart and insert the track onto the ties. To do this, we need a piece of wire that is stiff and strong. Looking around the garage I found a wire “stake” made of galvanized steel wire with a curved top used to hold bender board in the ground. This was strong yet easy to bend to shape. A wire coat hanger or maybe even a nail could also be used.

The jaws, (i.e., the two pieces of wire) are each ~2-1/2” long. On one end of the jaws, each piece of wire was flattened by pounding it an anvil with a _big_ hammer. The wire was curved just beyond this flattened area by clamping it in a vise alongside a screwdriver, and bending it around a screwdriver by tapping it with a regular hammer. The flattened areas were then ground down straight in alignment and a final bend was added so that the metal curves back to grip the anchor plates. Because the wire diameter was too big to fit within the snap ring pliers, the other end of each jaw was “rolled” on the sander to decrease its diameter so that they would better fit into pliers.

I found it easiest to install single ties as the webbing between multiple ties makes it more difficult (but not impossible) to install them in a group. Simply clear some ballast and slide the tie under the track where it is to reside. Squeeze the pliers to open the jaws and inset the pliers over the rail from above. Slide the pliers along the rail to between the anchor plates. Squeeze the pliers opening the anchor plates and pull up and over the rail. The rail will pop into place as the pliers pull out from between the plates. Do the same on the other side of the tie and it’s done. It helps to use a finger to hold the first side in place as the second side is inserted. In some cases (such as installation over a rail joiner), it is helpful to first place the ties in hot tap water to soften them, or use a shot of lubricant to help them more easily slide over the rails to minimize damage to the anchors.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Todd, sorry to hear your production woes, but I'll add my call for photos. 

Later, 

K


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By East Broad Top on 14 Nov 2009 11:51 AM 
Todd, sorry to hear your production woes, but I'll add my call for photos. 

Later, 

K 

No pics of the completed tool as I gave the jaws to the wire former. However, I did scan one of the jaws when getting price quotes. There are two required and the flattened ends touch while the curved surfaces face away from each other when held by the snap ring pliers. BTW, this has been some experience and I about had a cow when I was charged $78 to ship one "free" pair of sample pliers from China.


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