# New single-slip crossing



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

A few days ago I was thinking about the locomotive/ freight car prepartaion area and I found that I could use a single slip to save space- since I am having to handlay track and turnouts anyway. 


The rail is Sunset Valley alluminium code 250 and treated hardwood ties.


























After treatment

























A regular turnout made a few days before- loosely placed: 










Next some #5s and #6s and a curved and a 3 way turnout- also finish my 2 double slips!









Alec.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice work. Whose spikes are you using, and are they crimped over on the bottom? 

Larry


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Hey Alec, Very nice work. Do you hand lay 100% of your track, or do you use flex in between switches? I'm planing on laying 3 #7 switches soon. All will be with Switchcrafters code 250 Alum rail. So of course I have a few questions about your build. What hard wood did you use for ties and how did you treat them? Have you had any experience with the longevity of this method? Also I see you made your points out of aluminum which poses a soldering problem. How did you attach the points to your throw bar? Looks like a small bolt and nut through a hole drilled in the rail base.


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks everyone, 


The spikes are 1/2" Sunset Valley Railroad or ones that I have made from stiff wire. The spikes just come through underneath, so it is not possible to crimp them. 
I have some second-hand LGB, but from now it is handlayed. I use Oak if I can or hardwood lengths from the local hardware store, I think the ties for my regular track are Cedar soaked in creosote (substitute?). Time will tell is they last, I have some turnouts from 9 months ago that seem to be holding up. I cannot solder the rail, so I use lots of spikes and epoxy glue to secure e.g. frogs. The point rails are attached with a small pin that is epoxied to the throw bar, a self-tapping screw works also.

Alec.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

What's the difference between a single-slip and a double-slip switch?

I'm studying the two sets of points on this beautiful piece of work, but I don't see any difference between it and what I purchased on eBay last year as a "double-slip" switch. To me, the definition of a double-slip is that it allows a train to enter from either track and leave by either track. No?

JackM


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Jack, your definition seems correct, a single slip has less rails than a double slip, you cannot go in as many directions on a single slip. 

Thanks,
Alec.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful work, Alec! 

you cannot go in as many directions on a single slip. 
Jack - a single slip only has one pair of point blades. A double slip is symmetrical and has two pairs - a total of 4 switches interleaved! Wikipedia has a good description and photos.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Damn...that's gorgious! Great work!


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks guys! 
I appreciate it your comments. 

Alec.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I like the way our perservative made the tiles look.. 

I you made a beautifull looking switch.

JJ


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By JackM on 20 Jul 2011 11:44 AM 
What's the difference between a single-slip and a double-slip switch?

I'm studying the two sets of points on this beautiful piece of work, but I don't see any difference between it and what I purchased on eBay last year as a "double-slip" switch. To me, the definition of a double-slip is that it allows a train to enter from either track and leave by either track. No?

JackM


Jack,
Look at the center of the switch, one side has a curved path by the crossing and the other side is just the angular crossing x. The slip allows one side to stay on the same side.
A double would have the curved path on both sides.

John


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