# 1/32 scale carfloat what material to use



## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

I got a 1/32 scale PRR tug for xmas from the mrs. This is the DUMAS PRR tug "Jersey City" and will be RC when done. I am looking to make a 200'x41'x9' three track float which should scale out to 72"x17"x3". I went to the Tap Plastics site and they have PVC,ABS and Acrylic but no styrene. Which would be the best to use and which thickness. I should be able to carry 8-40' cars, 3 on the outside tracks and 2 on the center. This would be a med sized float where a large float barge would be 300'-350' which would scale out to over 9' and be a little to tough to transport to the lake and turn around in the pond. Jake


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

which should scale out to 72"x17"x3 
Wow! That's gonna be big! 6' is also going to be fun to transport. 

I would personally suggest starting with a wood frame - it floats even if swamped with water. The details can be added later, of whatever plastic you want. I suspect the car float had a wooden plank deck, which would be easy to reproduce on a wooden barge/float. 

I use 1/4" plywood from Home Depot for a lot of box-type structures (e.g. car boxes to carry my trains.) A plywood top and bottom and some 1x4 sides and reinforcements under the tracks would be a start. If you use wood, go to West Marine and get some 'epoxy' paint - that's what the wooden kayak guys use to waterproof their vessels. [Oh yes - use waterproof glue!]


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

might want to fill the barge with white foam sheet to also help it float.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Jake, 

i would go with the acrylic for the following reasons: 

1. If you make the joints well enough they will seal themselves. 
2. Reinforcement is simple gussets in the corners. 
3. The clear material will allow easier inspection before final assembly and painting. 
4. If there is a leak, a simple bead of silicone caulk will remedy the situation. (I would recommend making sure all joints are water tight before putting the final decking on or making the decking removable.) 

As for the floatation, it is simple math weight of barge = weight of water displaced. 

The acrylic will float fine. One of the engineering colleges made an launched a concrete boat hull. 

Bob C.


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I calculated the dimensions @1:32 scale to be 75" x 15 3/8" x 3 3/8". I would start with a piece of 1" styrofoam and cover it with 1/8" plywood, sold as door skin. Epoxy paint as suggested will work well. You might also add some lead weight in the bottom or it will float too high in the water.Good luck on your project.


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Well here is my 2 cents
I have built many rc boats in my time and with dimensions you are shooting for flotation will not be a problem.
In fact you may have to ballast it so it will not be top heavy and roll when you add rail cars. 
2 suggestions.

1 wood framing and plastic skin. The wood framing wood give you the strength you will need for a 6’ hull. Thin ply to shape the hull and a plastic skin or veneer to resemble steel. This would be a traditional approach but you will have to concern yourself with watertight integrity.

2 the easiest is to shape the barge out of a block or blocks of rigid foam. Because the barge will not be powered you do not have to concern yourself with an interior. When you get the shape you want fiberglass the sides and bottom of the foam block. You will get the strength and watertight integrity you will want. If you need to add ballast just drill out the foam and add lead. Top it off with a wood or plastic deck. 
alan


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 23 Jan 2010 03:44 PM 
which should scale out to 72"x17"x3 
Wow! That's gonna be big! 6' is also going to be fun to transport. 

I would personally suggest starting with a wood frame - it floats even if swamped with water. The details can be added later, of whatever plastic you want. I suspect the car float had a wooden plank deck, which would be easy to reproduce on a wooden barge/float. 

I use 1/4" plywood from Home Depot for a lot of box-type structures (e.g. car boxes to carry my trains.) A plywood top and bottom and some 1x4 sides and reinforcements under the tracks would be a start. If you use wood, go to West Marine and get some 'epoxy' paint - that's what the wooden kayak guys use to waterproof their vessels. [Oh yes - use waterproof glue!] 



I used to do big model ships in a prior life. You are going to have a blast with that one.

Strongly recommend what Pete Thorton said. The hull will need stout construction. For example, with a 3+" overall height, the water line may need to be 1 inch or so for stability. The hull will have to displace 1224 cubic inches of water. Water weighs .036127 lbs/cu in. The barge loaded will have to weigh a little over 44 pounds to sit at a 1 inch water line. Extra weight is better so waves on the pond doesn't throw it around.


Build in a hard wood rub rail around the perimeter. That barge will have some momentum to it, if you run into something, you ant the barge to win.

We used to deploy from Honolulu to the Big Island on ocean going versions of these. They were about the same length, but twice as wide. A 1000 ton howitzer battery would barely drop those barges 4 or 5 inches along the side of the dock.


Please post some progress pics as you build.

Thanks, Bob


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Wonderul thread. I can't wait to see pictures when you start the actual construction, it is going to be something special.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks for all the suggestions. It will be built strong using 2x4's as a out side frame with cross members. The open areas will be fill 1" blue board just incase there is a leak. There will also be a Savemyboat pump installed in the interior with a 9 volt battery, this is a pump with an attached water sensor. I have ordered this and all the detail parts which are already 1/32 scale from www.harbormodels.com. I have used their round inspection hatchs on my covered hoppers from Aristo to replace the square ones. I will be using Train-Li new plastic track on the decking and be going to do a three track set up. There will also be a Harbormodel smoke unit in the tug plus Dallee's Tug sound board (Yes they make a Tug sound and fog horn also). There will be a small spring hook between the rail and axel of each rail car, just so a small wake will not spell disaster after launch. The 8 Aristo cars will have a weight of about 3lbs each so to get to the total is this weight included in the 44 lbs total or is it just the float has to be? I will post pics as I go. Thanks again Jake


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Were it me.. I'd carve the shape from closed cell foam then cover and seal the entire thing in fiberglass.. No, I don't surf (any more anyway), but it'll be light, strong, unsinkable and you could probably surf on it if you chose to. That volume of foam & glass should support a few hundred pounds, evenly distributed.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dave F on 24 Jan 2010 10:08 PM 
Were it me.. I'd carve the shape from closed cell foam then cover and seal the entire thing in fiberglass.. No, I don't surf (any more anyway), but it'll be light, strong, unsinkable and you could probably surf on it if you chose to. That volume of foam & glass should support a few hundred pounds, evenly distributed. 
I built a 60" long sub chaser with fiber glass. Used a cloth from a model airplane supplier. It was like bedsheet and real easy to use. Painted like a dream. Mine is plank over frame so did the inside too. That stuff is bullet proof.


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