# Newb questions about battery operations



## coasterp (Jul 25, 2010)

I am getting into G scale and need some info from people who operate with battery power. First, I am aware of a couple systems that can run under battery power. My questions however are related to how small of an engine can I fit a battery pack into and how long can I expect a charged battery to allow for me to run. I currently have a HLW Mack. Is this something that a battery pack can fit into? I have looked at some and they look small. However, I do not know enough to know if one pack is enough or I would need more. I have a budget to work with but do not want to go cheap. On the other hand, the high end stuff is out. Something in the middle is what I'm looking for if I go this route. Layout will be indoor and I'm leaning toward DCC at the moment but have not made a firm commitment.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, small locos will need small batteries, and if you want sound, space will be even more precious.

Assume li-ion batteries. With a small loco and light loads you can get reasonable run time. 



After you get all your battery advice... with an indoor layout, you can run brass or even aluminum track and track power, and you can find tiny decoders that will fit into anything, and no chargers, no batteries, no losing space that you wanted for a speaker. 

DCC and sound will be less per loco once you get a few locos too. 

(OK battery guys, you can flame me) 

Greg


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

I run battery power outdoors, and also sell battery power/radio control systems. You might check my site for some simple low cost solutions. But with a Mack, not much room. And since you are indoors, I would agree with Greg (did I just hear thunder and lightning?), stick with track power. Either straight DC or DCC. 

If you really want to go battery power though, you can probably use a 12V, 2000mah battery pack and run for at least 3 hours, probably more like 5 or 6.


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## coasterp (Jul 25, 2010)

WOW, two votes to go with DCC in the battery section







I took a look at your site. I really liked the one presentation. What turned me off and its something I have been thinking about, was the monitor while charging and charge on a fire-proof surface. That has been a concern of mine. While the run times are more than enough for what I would need, I think I will stick with DCC ( already have a starter system) and track power. Not going to be doing anything crazy as far as a track plan, so I won't need any crazy wiring. Plus for the mount of track I will have and using metal wheels, track cleaning should not be an issue too often.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Do NOT let warnings about "monitoring and charging on a fire-proof surface" keep you or anyone else away from battery power. This is mostly cover your a$$ stuff included with every battery charger. Do you or anyone else you know take those precautions while charging your cell phone or laptop? No difference with trains. As long as you use a charger designed for your type of battery pack, AND use realistic settings when charging with a universal type charger, you won't have any problems. Li-Pos are probably the most dangerous batteries out there at the moment, but very few trains guys use them. Those that do have experience with them in the air, and they don't worry about them either. Li-Ions, NiMh, NiCad, Lead-Acid: all very safe IMO.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

I have installed battery R/C inside a Hartland Mack. 
In fact I did a series of articles on how to do it for the Garden Railways forum as an exercise. 
The GR forum seems to have lost them. 

Not to worry. The following may be of interest. 

When I first started making battery R/C systems designed specifically for Large Scale trains in 1985, I was virtually the only one doing it Worldwide. I don't mean using what were already available for boats and cars etc. I mean designed specifically for use with Trains, as the requirements are different. 
Now there are plenty making them. 
RCS/BELTROL, G Scale Graphics, AristoCraft, NCE, AirWire, Brian Jones, Locolinc, etc. My apologies if I have left anyone out. 
The point being is that battery R/C is popular. Very popular. There has to be many reasons for that. 
The telling factor is that, once established with battery R/C, most users would never think of going back to track power. 
Even those who try a hybrid approach give up on the track power eventually. 
Track power works for some. But obviously not everyone . Mr Polk has openly declared that battery R/C will rule the roost eventually.


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## coasterp (Jul 25, 2010)

OK, while this is still going. I have another question. From what I understand, with aristos revelution I can adjust various settings to get engines to run well together. In DCC it would be speed matching. Do the other systems mentioned allow for this? I have heard of a few of them but not really looked too hard at them, so I really don't know. I am operations oriented, so engines that run close to each other in speed is needed.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

G-Scale Graphics RailBoss and RCS Beltrol have speed matching functions. I can't speak for others. This allows MU/Double-heading operations with mismatched locos.


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## rmcintir (Apr 24, 2009)

The HLW Mack is pretty small but if I had one I would have to make it battery. I've fit a battery, RC and sound into a Piko 0-6-0. Here is a video: 



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ltvs9IEXf8 

Here is a picture of how the battery fits. I was able to keep the weight in the loco as well. It will run for about 3 hours on a charge. I have two batteries. 









russ


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## coasterp (Jul 25, 2010)

Thats pretty impressive. Cost wise what would I be looking at for this, minus the sound. I actually just like my trains running quite so I can here them clicking over the jonts.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Since I only run r/c steamers (sparkies, not live steam!) and not diesels, when I want to double-head I have two controllers in each hand (RCS TX-24). To double-head steamers in 1:1 required engineers in both engines working together and for me the same is true! Each engine has it's own personality and has to be handled differently! Double-heading requires total concentration but it is a blast!! (It's also exhausting! I double-headed an LGB Mogul and a Bachmann Big Hauler at Marty's Battery Powered Steamup in 2007 for about 30 minutes and I was beat! It's completely different than running single! If you ever get a chance to, try it!


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

You can fit a lot into a little bit of space. 










This is under the hood of a Bachmann Davenport. The light blue thing is a 7.4v, 2600 mAh Li-Ion battery (which will run for h-o-u-r-s in this loco), with a power switch on the side, and simple speed control, using a variable voltage regulator and potentiometer, along with a center-off DPDT for direction. (I'd use one of Del's simple Critter Controls if I didn't have a few of these left over from my long-defunct HO scale railroad handheld controls.) The other wall of the hood holds a MyLocoSound sound system, and there's a 1.5" flat wafer speaker on the floor of the hood. The thing with the black and white wires is a push-button for the horn.

In this locomotive, 7.4 volts is more than ample for a comfortable, prototypical speed. Since the MyLocoSound board runs on the same voltage, it's an ideal fit. Otherwise, there's room in the cab for a larger pack, or you can put the batteries under the hood and the electronics in the cab. Tetris is a life skill here. 

Later, 

K


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