# how do these trains operate??



## erndog (Oct 23, 2012)

i recently purchased a large crate of trains and track G scale, the carte contained:
30 sections of 2 rail straight tracks about 5 ft long
 20 sections of 16 inch curved 2 rail
24 sections of 2 rail 12 curved 2 rail
4 remote control right hand switches 2 rail
3 remote control left hand switches 2 rail all track and switches are clean non rusted bent or beat up look new, also included were various bx cars and other g scale railroad cars 
there are 2 old style steam locomotives with matching coal cars, one is a #49 Emmett Kelly jr Circus 
the other is also old sytle steam locomotive with matching coal car# 51 Santa Fee
also included new in box MRC 6200 model MBRAA222 power pak or amplifier of some type, my question is this, how do these locomotives function? it doesnt seem that the track is electrified as i rememeber the old lionels? is there some type of electrical system or battery that runs the engines? i noticed there is a wire that connects the loco to the coals cars,what is its function? how do you start and stop the trains?if the trains are battery operateed where do you get the batteries and is there a special assecorie that is part of the track that charges the battery while the train is parked? how do then track switches function? what voltage and from what source? what is the max weight or # of cars these or newer modern style locos will pull? and how steep a grade will they pull? anyway i am looking forward to seeting up a large overhead layout in a shop building no outdoor useage, so just trying to get some basic ideas thanks email with ideas or suggestions thanks [email protected]


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

well, i'll stick out my foot. 
just from your description it is not safe to make a guess. 
the MRC 6200 is a powerpack for trackpower. (you connect it to the rails, the locos pick up the juice through their wheels.) 
i don't know, what the MBRAA222 is. 
IF it is trackpower, you start and stop using the knob on the powerpack. (if it is battery power there should be some wireless-control device 

the wires between loco and tender can be many different things. 
- just additional power pick up through the tender wheels 
- feeding a speaker in the tender 
- getting battery power from the tender 

how steep - depends on the make of the locos. there are some, that have problems to haul themselves up a 3% grade, others can draw half a dozen cars up a 6% grade.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Erndog (?) 

You have a lot of Bachmann Large Scale equipment by the sound of it. [The Emmet Kelly Jr Circus is the giveaway.] 

It works just like conventional HO 2-rail equipment. You connect the power pack to the rails and the engines pick up power through their wheels. It does't sound as if you ever had a train before, so you might find this "getting started" booklet useful. http://www.greatesthobby.com/wgh/ob...ooklet.pdf

Large Scale ("G gauge") uses higher voltages than HO - the MDC probably puts out 0-18V. And your trains may collect power on the front pilot wheels as well as the driving wheels, so check to see if there is an arrow under the pilot between the whels - it points forward. Check out the MRC specs at http://www.modelrectifier.com/resou.../AA222.pdf. And use Mode II with your bachmann trains.

The wires to the coal car (we call it a tender) are for the sound chuffer. There's a speaker and electronics in the coal car/tender, and a volume control with on/off underneath. It is powered by a 9V battery that fits under the water hatch (back of the coal car on top.) 

George Schreyer has a website with a lot of useful information about these trains: http://www.girr.org/girr/ In particular, take a look at his Big Hauler tips page http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html 

One last thought. Bachmann track was cheap pressed tin and fragile - and it looks like shiny metal. It sounds like you have a much better collection of track. Is is brass colored? 

Enjoy your trains!


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Are there any numbers on the one of the ties on the under side of the track? There should be some letters, such as LGB or ART. There could be others . These letters will be followed by a number. If you can tell us what letters and numbers you have we could be of more help.


Chuck


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## erndog (Oct 23, 2012)

ok now it is making sense and yes i do have the track that is brass and looks heavy duty so they are all connected with the metal tabs that connect the tracks together and the switches are powered by the power pak as well i asume, so how far in distance does the power pak operate? in other word with a layout that is 300 feet in tack length or more does it require additional power paks and controls?, ok thanks i am excited about putting this set together they seem a bit less weighty and larger than the old pre 1950 lionel set that was my grandfathers i have a those trains now, lots of them but,. i have been advised not to set it up for useage in a large layout as it wears them out? i had operated that set up years ago but they havent been unboxed and set up for years, but will probly build a marhalling yard to display them, they have the 3 rail track that is powered by 8 very large twin handled YX (?) transformers. so would these newer g scale 2 rail train work the same?


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## erndog (Oct 23, 2012)

track is arstacraft? has a 300 on it and that is about it also has small red glue spots with screws hidden underneath also what type of connector is used to put the power to the track or are the leads soldered on?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Hello erndog, 
Most folks start with a circle or loop of some fashion for continuous running, if that is your plan then you need only think of a run of 150 feet x 2 as the juice goes both ways. Your power packs should get you started. 
Your old Lionel has more metal parts than our Chinese made toys, when 'we' exported their manufacture we did it to have them made cheaper, not better. 
Two rails are trickier to wire than 3, a reverse loop creates a short in 2 rails, where as in 3 the center is always the center and power doesn't short. Also Lionel ran on AC power while most of our trains prefer DC. 

ART is the abreviation that Aristocraft uses in their parts numbering system. The 'red glue' spots are red wax and the screws are for the rail joiners. 
I've had good luck using those screws to hold my track together, while others toss 'em and use railclamps. I only use clamps when the tapped holes are 'bad', out of place or threads stripped. 
I lost some of the red wax screws when I started laying track on the ground as I eyeballed layout designs.... I'm in S. Az and the heat melted the red wax! The screws are small and my 'soil' is sandy and my focal plane is just beyond arms length, which makes the screws seem durn near invisible! 

Power Leads; My first hookup was to solder eyes to the end of speaker wire, had some on hand and I used the small screws that hold the ties to the rail. For 5 years those 2 connections worked fine. 
Others use railclamps that have screw terminals for power and some solder wires to the rails. With track power continuity between the joiners becomes a concern, area and climate can affect that. My dry climate doees not promote corrosion or crud and the screw enforced joiner works fine for me I also have no garden so I don't have to contend with; plantfood, fertilizers or excessive water. Things than can affect electricty joints 

I traded one bag of worries for another when I decided to use battery power, I no longer worry about track connections, continuity or cleanliness of the rails, but I should have paid somebody to do my installs ... not my strtong suit, and it shows! An education in batteries followed.... 

My advice is to stick with track power for now and have fun with your trains. 

John


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

It appears that you have curved track for two different diameter circles. It would help your planning about what to do with your track, if you made a circle out of each size of curved track. My guess is that the 12 inch track will turn out to be 4' diameter. Your 16' curved sections will give you about 8' diameter circle. I have some Aristo wide radius curves that are about 20 inches long. These give a 10' diameter circle. Lay your switches out on the curved track and determine the diameter of the curved part of the switch. That will also help you plan for sidings and what type of trains you can run through them.

If one circle is about 4', short wheel based engines and cars are better suited for that track. Longer engines and cars will run on it but they won't be happy.

I agree with John, stick with track power, at least in the beginning. There are a number of options out there, get some experience and talk to people before you make a choice that you might regret later on. 

Join up with a local Garden Railroad Club and pick their brains. There are formal and informal groups all over the country. Where are you located (city or town is enough)?

Chuck


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## erndog (Oct 23, 2012)

ok thanks i am going to wire this thing up i guess just put some power to the tracks with the controller i have MRC6200, small electrical ends screwed to where the tracks screw together would work i guess and i iwll see how it works the trains are indoor only and will be on an elevated tracks system/layout apz 500 ft of track willn one power unit be enough? and how much clearance should i plan for in tunnels or close spaces( they have to run behind an upright beam in the lay out i have configured thanks, also do the swithces also power from the controller/power unit and activate with a toggle switch? thanks


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Try the Aristo site for information about their switches.

PDF ON SWITCHES 

Scroll down the information you want is on Page 2.

Chuck


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

The length of run has less to do with what can that pack run, than how many amps your loco plus lighted cars draws. It came with your set up, it probably is good enough. 
The length can be overcome by running a bus line parallel to the track and using feeders to the track. How often depends upon your experience, add 'em as needed. I'd start with a 50' spacing which means it only has to supply 25' on either side. 

Most power packs have accessory terminals for switches however from small scale experience, trains can slow when switches are thrown when using a basic/entry level power pack. You might want to check out the Easy Aire system that uses compressed air to throw the switch. Or buy a used power pack dedicated to switch power. 
Happy Rails 
John


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Clearances; use your longest car/loco on your tightest curves. Measure overhang at the center and the ends. I like to add an inch for my fingers if the space is tight. Murphy's law: Cars and locos will derail where it's hardest to get them. I add 2 inches on straight aways because you don't have extended overhang allowances. 
John


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Just set up anything temporarily on a smaller scale for now and all the various concerns, questions and solutions will follow as they logically do... 
Don't try to plan the final scheme until you get your feet wet.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds to me like you're off to a great start.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

If you are setting up shop display for constant running you may find in the end an LGB loco will be the one that will run the most longest. The Chinese stuff tends to fail sooner rather than later.


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