# New Bachmann Climax



## bob k (Jan 10, 2008)

Does anyone power their new Bachmann Climax by means of track power. I have an older model and it has a bit of trouble going through the LGB plastic frog using track power. Wondering if the new model would handle them a bit smoother? Any comments? Thanks.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

What type of LGB switches, R1, 3, or 5? I don't have any trouble with my Climax (old version) on my R5 switches.

Chuck


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the new Climax track powered and it easily negotiates R1 LGB switches.


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## bob k (Jan 10, 2008)

Thanks gentlemen.....Referring to the engine traveling through 16000 switch frogs at very sloooow speeds. I use the engine in a great deal of switching and traveling though a yard. and the plastic frogs make it sputter a bit ...was hoping the new trucks might improve the continuity....I realize that it transverses even the smallest radius


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## mrail (Dec 27, 2007)

I've run in to an issue like that on mine a couple of times. Power is picked up from the wheels with ball bearings sprung against the back of the wheels. Nothing holds the balls in besides the wheels, and it's possible for them to fall out. In a few cases I noticed the engine was really sensitive to frogs and dirty track. I eventually looked closer into it and found some of these balls were gone. As you might expect replacing them made the thing run a lot better. No idea if Bachmann sells them, but they are a common iirc metric ball bearing that can be had for a few cents from industrial suppliers.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Good suggestion mrail. I was about to suggest the same thing. My additional suggestion would be to turn the engine over and touch power leads to pairs of wheels and maybe you can determine which axle has a problem. 

Most engines (if they can handle the curve, the climax can) will go through any LGB switch. The problem is usually with the power contacts in the engine.

Chuck


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't have a problem with continuity on the plastic frogs, but I'm running DCC so that may make a difference.


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## bob k (Jan 10, 2008)

*new climax*

thanks for the info gentlemen.....do your replies relate to the new climax or the older version?


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the new Climax


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## PetenGeoff (Dec 27, 2007)

Bachmann Industries sells both the old contact with the ball and the new contact with the plunger. The plunger is not as finicky as the old ball type, the plunger won't fall out, like the ball sometimes did. Wether running on DC or DCC I would recomend hard wiring the motor trucks in and not use the contacts on the Bolster plate, which are unreliable too, great when new but add a bit of dirt and age, and those contact points become unreliable. When I ran on DC, hard wiring the contacts and motor blocks together cured the sometime stutter on frogs. (so hard wire both front and rear left hand contacts, then right hand contacts, and then both front and rear contacts to each motor, basically 4 wires from each motor truck) It takes a little careful trouble to do, but makes for reliable operation in all conditions. Keep the back of the wheel clean, and use a little electrical silicone type spray, applied with a match stick to the plunger every so often. If running on DCC you are better to hard wire anyway, and done carefully it doesn't show.


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## Dennis Cherry (Feb 16, 2008)

I just bought a old Climax and have 2 old shays. All are being converted to DCC. Yes the hard wiring is the way to go but does take some careful planning on where the wires need to be positioned before mounting the trucks again.

Also if you want to keep the ball bearing contacts, you might want to check the springs that hold the ball bearing against the wheel. They can get weak and not maintain contact, or if you had a derail with a short circuit, the springs may loose there ability to move. I found that Kadee coupler springs work well as a replacement, I do not remember which coupler spring it was though. 




PetenGeoff said:


> Bachmann Industries sells both the old contact with the ball and the new contact with the plunger. The plunger is not as finicky as the old ball type, the plunger won't fall out, like the ball sometimes did. Wether running on DC or DCC I would recomend hard wiring the motor trucks in and not use the contacts on the Bolster plate, which are unreliable too, great when new but add a bit of dirt and age, and those contact points become unreliable. When I ran on DC, hard wiring the contacts and motor blocks together cured the sometime stutter on frogs. (so hard wire both front and rear left hand contacts, then right hand contacts, and then both front and rear contacts to each motor, basically 4 wires from each motor truck) It takes a little careful trouble to do, but makes for reliable operation in all conditions. Keep the back of the wheel clean, and use a little electrical silicone type spray, applied with a match stick to the plunger every so often. If running on DCC you are better to hard wire anyway, and done carefully it doesn't show.


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## bontrager (Apr 20, 2014)

Jim Agnew said:


> I have the new Climax


So do I. Just received it yesterday complete with DCC, sound and smoke.

I can't believe the detail associated with this model; it's great!!!!!

I especially like that the fire box door can be opened and closed by a lever attached to he door. can't wait to see it run with sound and smoke (definitely wanted smoke, sound and "firebox and ash pan glow").

This has to be one of the best values in G Scale or any scale IMHO!!!!!!!


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

ive purchased one in the last month as well, sound.

I have no issues through lgb switches , but, I have found the engine prefers really clean track for optimum slow running.

while mine has probably less than an hour running so far, I will also keep a close eye on the back of wheels to make certain they too are clean best contact.

nice loco. 

I handle it very carefully. too many delicate details, and, fwiw, very few spares at bmann on line

mine has a tiny pause/hitch in one of the cylinder 'discs" at a crawl which gives it an odd slightly syncopated chuff. it is properly lubed and as best I can tell after looking closely, the disc and all related parts seem to be aligned and straight-I suspect some internal gear issue

I love how small it is compared to the 38t shay.


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