# Removing worm gear from 3rd gen big Hauler Motor



## dmazyn (Dec 23, 2009)

anyone know how to Remove the worm gear from 3rd gen big Hauler Motor ?


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have remove the motor hen use a small battery terminal puller. Later RJD


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Heat!! 

If the gear is brass, then a micro torch can heat up the brass gear and it will just fall off. 

Same thing to re-install the gear, heat it up and it slides on easy, and when cooled it gets as tight as the original.


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## SRW (Jan 13, 2010)

I found George Schreyer's website helpful with big hauler improvements. Maybe something on there will help 

http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html#gears 

As for having Bachmann repair anything it looks like a 30 dollar fee if you don't feel like messing with it anymore. Seems someone told me they replace it with a last generation driveline but not sure about that I got this yesterday from a cs rep: 

To return your loco ( tender) in for repair send to Bachmann Inds. 1400 E. Erie Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19124. If your loco is under 1yr. please send a copy of your receipt. if you do not have your receipt, if it is older than a year, or misused or abused, please send the following service fee: standard N or HO deisel $10.00, standard N or HO steam $15.00, N, HO, DCC or Spectrum locos are $20.00, O scale from Williams and ON30 Spectrum is $25.00. Standard Large Scale is $30.00 and Spectrum or 10th Anniversary is $50.00. Please include complete address and phone number. Parts and accessories are only covered for 90 days. Additional cost may apply. 
PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.


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## SRW (Jan 13, 2010)

Ahh addendum time. 

I just got a follow up e-mail from the rep at Bachmann stating those Big Hauler prices are 30.00 PLUS if any parts are "broken or missing" so 30 bucks would appear to be a baseline figure. I wrote back to her to find out what replacing with a later gen driveline costs. I'll see what she comes back with. I know Barry's Big trains makes improved bottom ends for the Hauler but they are more expensive than 30 bucks so...depends on how important it is to you to not have that Hauler be a "static" model I guess.


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## dmazyn (Dec 23, 2009)

I got the gear off and put on the replacement motor and everything seems to line up great. I still need to put everything back together but running the motor with the wheels on on the test bench it sounds fine no pop or strange sounds.


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## SRW (Jan 13, 2010)

Sounds like you did good to me. I followed the advice from the website I posted the link to and glued the engine in better. I tried his tip on wrapping a zip tie around the engine weight and motor but it was too snug around the original glue blob to fish a zip tie but the old glue was cracked from age and probably going to fail and allow the motor to move around which I suspect lets the brass worm gear then chew up and push around the nylon gears. Instead I had a tube of Liquid Nail construction adhesive and pushed that down into the crack between the motor and the frame and then also carefully added a small blob on the other side of the motor making sure not to block the little vent. After 48 hours it was rock solid. If it ever fails I guess I will have to grind the glue out with my dremel and replace the motor. 
I lubed it all up good with gear grease and put it back together and it runs well...for what it is. I could add some more weight to make it pull better but I suspect that will just hasten the demise of the driveline so left it alone for now.


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## dmazyn (Dec 23, 2009)

I got the loco back together and everything is working great. The reaon I did this is because I got a upgraded motor off ebay which loco is running much better now and faster overall compared to the stock motor. While I was inside I secured the motor with the tie wraps and lubed everything.


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## SRW (Jan 13, 2010)

Can you tell me what motor you found on eBay? Just curious. 

I got the last of the pinstriping on my B&O to ET&WNC conversion tonight. I wasn't happy with the scale of the oval decals I found on line but wasn't going to put any more effort into it so used them and adjusted the pinstriping accordingly. i just wanted to convert my free Big Hauler into the sister #11 engine to the #12 Annie I already have. 
The decals I got also did not include enough 1s to label it up as #11 so I'm going to have to grab some regular Railroad Roman 1/4" letters to finish it off. I guess I'll put pictures up on the model making section for folks to critique in a week or so. I got the paint colors real close and the russian blue boiler jacket color I hit upon looks really pretty good from a surprising 'hardware store' paint source I had on hand in my shop from another project.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

SRW......... 

Here's a link to the Replacement motor for Bachmann Ten Wheeler

A friend in our local club sells them.


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## dmazyn (Dec 23, 2009)

That's the motor I got and it's a good and easy upgrade. I am building a wall mounted layout around my bedroom using a basic train engineer once I get it in. 

I repainted the entire bachman gold rush starter set black with dark red/maroon details but still need to get decals for it.


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## SRW (Jan 13, 2010)

I'll keep the motor in mind if mine goes south. 
Good luck with hauler repaint. My ET&WNC is pretty much completed. I had some minor wrinkling with the decals in two spots. I was very careful throughout the project to apply the paint and decals to some plastic I had in the shop first and let it sit for a day to test how the paints all reacted to each other. I thought I had completely compatible paints and decals but there was still a bit of wrinkling that didn't occur on my test pieces. I can work it out and you need to hold the model within a foot of your face to see it...but I see it. So...it'll be fixed. 
I do urge you if you haven't already planned on it put some of your paint you will a apply your decals on top of on some plastic, let it dry for about a week, then apply some spare decals like extra numbers etc. you won't need for you model on to it and experiment with clear or satin finishs like Krylon clear, Floquil, Testors dulcoat etc. to make sure it will give you the results you're aiming for. Nothing like building a great model only to have it go wrong in what should be the final finishing steps. 
Good luck!!


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