# Aster Mikado building blog



## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I have created a blog on my journey building my Aster Mikado kit. I will upload all pictures there so feel free to visit. Hopefully it will be of some use to someone and entertaining for others as I share my experiences. It should provide a good way to show my progress and to acquire assistance should that be necessary.



Aster Mikado building blog


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeremiah
One rule, no Aster box in the luggage for vacation.... thanks for the link. BTW- seems that Aster kits always bring a smile!


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## Ding Dong (Sep 27, 2010)

Jeremiah, 
Hans has pump handles in stock. I purchased one from him some weeks back to replace one I mislaid. ( I swear they have legs.) 
If I may offer one word of advice, if you are tired and hit a snag, stop and walk away, and come back to it another time when you are fresh. Good Luck, we will all be living vicariously through you during the build. 

Rob Meadows


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks for the good tips Rob. Good to know about the pump handle. Someone has already offered to turn one on their lathe for me, so that may be taken care of already. 
Charles, I can't tell you how many times I have looked at all the parts so far, but as hard as it will be, I'll only take the plans with me to study during some down time.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeremiah
I like the idea of the Blog. Save it to favorites and eaay to get to. Good luck in your build. I would suggest that you get some small containers to put all of the small scres and parts in and label them.
It is real easy to drop a screw and never find them.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks Art, I plan to get some containers of some sort or one of those boxes with trays that pull out.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a small muffin tin.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Dan Pantages on 27 May 2011 09:37 AM 
I use a small muffin tin. 
Great until a small child grabs it and pulls it off the table!!!!
Perhaps something with a lid is called for. 
Jeremiah, enjoy the build, and whilst you follow the plans and instructions, also step back and look at things logically.
I don't know about the Mikado, but sometimes Aster instructions seem overly complex for a simple operation.
Looking forward to reading your blog when you get going with construction. 
All the best,
David leech, Delta, Canada


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't have any small children.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I do, so that is definitely good advice David. 
I am headed to my local flea market tomorrow and I can probably find some things there which may be useful.



Well, after succumbing to the urge to get my hands going with this project, I have decided to build the tender and it's tender pump first. I'll add pictures as I go. I'll start with the tender trucks and then tomorrow as I have time in the evening, move on to the tender. I have a long weekend and though I will not be starting the assembly of the engine till later in July, I can't resist doing at least something.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

So Dan, according to Wendy, there is just one LARGE child at your house!


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Dan Pantages on 27 May 2011 09:37 AM 
I use a small muffin tin. Mr Pantages, with the greatest of respect, there is no such thing as a small[/i] muffin tin.









tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

I organized the little bags of screws and small parts in a narrow long box that I got at our locals Fran's Chocolates store, may it be See's or Purdy's or whatever is handy. Give the chocolates to your significant other or snack on them when you feel faint. Each bag is has the Aster part and size printed on a slip of paper, remove the staple from each flat bag and arrange each standing sequentially, B's,N's,P's,W's and so on for quick retrieval when the instructions ask for them. The newer Aster kit screws and small parts are packaged in small zip lock type bags which are easier to keep from emptying unexpectly. Dan's muffin tin idea is good too! I remember building my Mikado kit as well, in fact I painted the boiler shell, valve cover and cab roof before I started it. Enjoy building your kit!


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

tac: A regular muffin tin makes muffins which are 2 3/4" across. The tin I use makes muffins 1 3/4" across which makes them small muffins. Ergo, it's a small muffin tin. Just watch out for those small children!


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I updated my blog after building a bit this evening. I'll get pictures up later to coincide with the journal.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Dear Mr Pantages, rather than a learned dissertation on the physical dimensions of home cooking utensils, my comment was intended to be humorous, and not to be taken as literal fact. I admit, as far as your comment is concerned, that the actual physical dimensions of culinary items occupy very little of my waking hours. I am therefore content to consume the products of the kitchen without unnecessarily burdening myself with the mechanics of their production. 

As a child, I grow up firm in the belief that muffins came in two distinct forms - 'large' and 'gone'. Once sighted, the muffin was soon inhaled. I have done my level best over the last many years to reduce the ever-burgeoning growth of the muffin population density on both sides of our contiguous borders, with, I admit with some degree of disappointmen, little obvious signs of success. This is due in no small part to the unceasing efforts of Messrs Horton in Canada [blueberry and chocolate chip], and such worthies as Shari's in nearby Washington and Oregon [banana and marionberry]. 

On the other paw, I will NEVER give up my quest. A man has to do what a man has to do. Walk tall, fear the Lord, and eat muffins. 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Pictures added. Thanks to Jeff Runge for some helpful advice as well as SV.

I did have a question for any who have built a Mikado. On section 16 for the tender trucks attachment to the tender, there is a sticker in my drawings which says NOT to use the W5 washer on THIS truck, even though the illustration indicates the use of it. The written instructions which coincide with that step also call for the use of the W5 washer. However is it only the back truck or both trucks. The use of THIS is a bit ambiguous. 

I can see why one would use a washer of some sort on that part, but do I not use any washer at all and just the nut, which is part N5? Thanks. The sticker says NOT to use it so I won't, but just was a bit confused as to whether it was just the rear truck.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I assembled and installed the tender water pump. I let the caulk dry and then added some distilled water to test for leaks. No leaks on the bottom water fittings and bolts which go through tender to attach to bottom of pump. I pumped a few times and water came out the feed line to the boiler, however when I stop pumping there is a steady drip. So I am still getting water into the feed line which I assume would be due to a lack of seal on the union which connects the feed line from the pump to the feed line outside the tender. I tried to tighten it as best I could, but still there is dripping. 

Does this matter, or should I try and do a better seal around that?


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

The water is syphoning out thru the pump. The axle pump will draw the water thru the tender pump the same way when moving.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I see, so once that suction is created with the initial pump, there really isn't a way to stop the slow drip? When it is coupled to the engine it won't be noticeable anyway, and you want water in there so I take it nothing to mess with?


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

On the W5 washer, I have no such note in my manual. The only reason I can see for omitting it is that would allow more freedom of movement, allowing for better tracking on uneven track. I don't remember any problems of that kind on these engines.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Well, if no one can say it will harm it by NOT having the washers, I guess I will leave them off. The front truck diagram shows no use of the W5 washer, but the rear truck does.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

You need to watch for this: in the drawings on page 16, they show a W5 in a circle, and a little x2 next to it. That indicates they are used in 2 locations. In this case it would be one on each truck mounting stud. You will find this at many places through out the build. i.e.: the fasteners that hold the 16-10 tender top on is a H3 x4 indicating you would install four H3 screws.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Right, but like you said, you did not have a sticker saying this, so I need someone who has had the instructions call for not having it in place tell me if I need to go back and put the washer on one or if by that sticker they mean do not put them on Both trucks.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jeremiah, 
There is no such sticker in my book either, so I would think that at some time someone recommended only putting the washer under 'one' truck, as Jeff suggests, to allow for better tracking on twisted tracks. 
You wouldn't want to leave it off both, otherwise the tender would, I think, rattle side to side too much. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); I went back and put one under the front truck of the tender.

BTW, Blog updated with pictures.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

I also have the said "sticker" in my book that states NOT to use the W5 washer. 

If you do a search of my old posts from several years back, I had replaced the two trailing truck springs in Step 13 Part 5 X2 with a stiffer pair of springs which you can pick up at a hardware store with an extensive spring inventory using this part number: (71XA). This will remedy the locomotive from sagging backwards toward the cab at the trailing truck. If you can't find them, I have a couple extra pair that you are welcome to. 

Note that some Aster Mikado kits including my kit had shipped with cylinder studs Step 2 Part 6 that are too short. Following the instructions to screw them into the cylinder block firmly didn't leave enough space to set the gaskets 2-5, valve box 2-4, Cover 2-1 and leave enough threads to thread on the N2 nuts properly. Test this and if the ones enclosed in your kit are short, contact Hans for the correct length studs. Aster in Japan sent me the correct length studs and that delayed my assembly by a few weeks.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks. 
I won't get to the rest of the loco till the end of July. I don't know if Hans is busy or not, but I contacted him about some parts a few days ago and have yet to hear from him.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jeremiah, 
i have been told that the correct procedure, is that you must get the official Aster USA parts request form sent to you by your Aster dealer. 
You then print it an fill it out, or do it in your computer, and then send it back to your dealer. 
He will then forward it to Hans. 
Otherwise i would imagine that you will not hear anything. 
So, who is your Aster dealer? 
Any volunteers? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
p.s. I would wait until you have checked as much as you can, before you start ordering one part each week. Better to do most of it all at once.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Thanks David, 
I am not TOO worried about it. I understand there must be procedures to things, so due to me purchasing this from an individual as opposed to a "dealer", I guess I will have to wait and see what happens.

I did a dry run and found I have the "short" cylinder studs which are 2-6. Will backing out the stud a few turns to make it receive the nut with more than 1 thread hurt anything?


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

When ordering parts you need the correct information 
1) engine 
2) part number, that is the section/page number and the number of the part itself 
3) the description of part, I refer to the printed manual for this to avoid confusion in terminology. 

Have no idea what David is talking about. I have never seen said form ???? 

I ordered some parts on 5-23 and received them in the mail 5-26. ( These were parts Hans has in stock, O rings and such ) 
If the parts have to come from Japan, then it takes a few weeks. Hans had been ordering from Japan on Mondays, so if you sent him an order on a Wednesday, he would put the request in the following Monday in most cases. I believe he is still doing it this way. 

Your order may be delayed if you omit any of the information listed above.


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 28 May 2011 08:34 PM 
Jeremiah, 
i have been told that the correct procedure, is that you must get the official Aster USA parts request form sent to you by your Aster dealer. 
You then print it an fill it out, or do it in your computer, and then send it back to your dealer. 
He will then forward it to Hans. 
Otherwise i would imagine that you will not hear anything. 
So, who is your Aster dealer? 
Any volunteers? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
p.s. I would wait until you have checked as much as you can, before you start ordering one part each week. Better to do most of it all at once. Just send a list of the parts you need to Hans with the details that Jeff specifies. I never seen or used a form!

Robert


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Well that's good to know.
I won't bother with a form any more.
I can only go by what my dealer told me!
He said that Hans needs this form filled in before he will order parts.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Well, 
I'll email Hans again and even send him a picture of step 2 with the part number, qty needed (in this case 8 studs part number 2-6 for the Mikado). I am in no hurry to receive them as I won't be constructing the engine until the end of summer. I expect to pay for them as this was not purchased from a dealer and I would be glad to pay for them so long as I can just get them. Thanks for the help.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks David, 

Thats the first I have seen that form. I see it asks for exactly the information I listed. 

The dealers should include one of these forms with each engine??


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I would just like to add, that I am really happy with my kit. I have enjoyed building it so far. Like all things, there will be tolerance issues here and there. I am sure this issue with the cylinder studs being too short will get righted.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff, if you have a good dealer he will make sure you have it when you need to order parts. This is something new from Hans over the last year, at least to me.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Just for clarification. Am I on my own since I bought this from a private party? Does Aster still work with people who bought the engine (while new in kit form) second hand?


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By iceclimber on 29 May 2011 10:48 AM 
Just for clarification. Am I on my own since I bought this from a private party? Does Aster still work with people who bought the engine (while new in kit form) second hand? 
Jeremiah
You will have the support you can handle from people like Hans or Jim Pitts. Like Jeff and others have mentioned, when you need a part for the Mike and if Hans does not have it in stock , he will order it for you. In the event it is not available from Aster , then you will need the help of people like Norm Saley or others who have the ability to duplicate or repair a part.
As you have seen in a couple of my threads I have had to rely on Norm, Hans and Jeff for advice and direction. Dont fear, ---- happens sometimes and there or those around that can help.
P.S. Your blog is gonna be helpful to others who venture into the realm of "KIT BUILDING" I think it is great work.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

You are not on your own, see the private message.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Thanks, 
This is the part of the hobby that is new waters for me. I have read enough to see that Aster takes care of what it can (understandably, there won't be parts laying around for ever). I just finished up the tender detail parts. I'll add more pictures later. Thanks for the support. I got to file my first part today to make it fit. Worked great.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Hit a bit of a roadblock. My coupling rods bind up when on the chassis. I just set the drivers in the frame and added the coupling rods and rolled it along a length of track. So, I need to wait and see if I can get a set of coupling rods.







At least I have some time which I wasn't going to build anyway so that is why I wanted to find out if I would have in issue or not before I left for vacation. I just hope the parts are still available. Anyone else experience that with their build? It was Jeff who pointed out I might experience this issue. OH well, what can you do. I trust Aster will do what they can to make it all right.

I keep thinking it is only off a bit, enough I don't want to force it, but a bit drilled out of the bushings that are causing the binding may work. I just don't know enough or feel comfortable enough to make that type of move on an engine I just bought.

I also noticed, after removing the coupling rods to store in the box, when I would push the drivers (free of coupling rods) in the chassis, the front leading driver set would sometimes stop rolling, just a hair until I place some weight with my finger on it. I would gather that once everything is set up correctly with the springs and the boiler atop, that should not be an issue.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I may have got it. I put the drivers on again today in the correct order and used lots of oil. seems to run smooth back and fourth so I need to make notes of what side the pins are on in the chassis and which rod goes to which side so when I assemble later I can do the same way. Hans gave me some suggestions on the phone as well and I feel everything is being taken care of.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); If you are interested I will be updating my blog periodically but I am taking a break from the kit building to finish up my job responsibilities before heading out of town for the summer. I have the link to the blog in my user information. Thanks all.


Sorry for all the back to back posts. Wish the edit feature didn't have a time limit to it. I did want to add that regardless of all the issues I had thought I had, or had to work through. I can highly recommend a kit as a first time steamer. I was very fortunate to find one that I liked. I am thoroughly enjoying the process even with its ups and downs. I am learning a lot.


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