# Building from scrap-material



## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hello!
Just entered this forum, found a link in my norwegian forum: mjf.no
Interesting to read from the topics in this forum!
My project is The Nordag Railway, "Nordagbanen" Build under the 2. WW. by The German Nordag plant, to supply their Alumina production with Bauxitt from EFP&Co Ltd, an British-Canadian Carbide-Manganese Furnace Plant in Sauda; 2.4 km 900mm Narrow-Railway all along the Fjord.
My first choice to build, is a typically Western-Norway house close to the Line.
My scale is 1:50/ 0m30
Oddvar
OK, at job I found some white Plastic" Corrogated" sheets, used to cover new steel plates.I try to use them as Wall-Siding, as I have not found any that matches the original.










Someone else having used this?
Oddvar


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds interesting. 

Most of the stuff you'll see here is bigger scales like 1:32 through 1:19. 

Scrap material? Of course! Our favorite source.


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks Torby!
So I`m too small? OK , my first thought was to build in G, and I even have a nice Bachmann Set of Annie, just have a look: 








The reason why I scaled down to 0m30 was the Rainy Weather in Western Coast of Norway,







So I plan to build in Sections of Styrofoam.
The House : http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Ragnvhus.jpg Picture taken short time after WW2. You can still see the Rails.
The Model project: http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Mandius%20Aarebrots%20hus/P1280893.jpg
Oddvar=0man


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, Coroplast is used quite a bit by some. Yogi Wallace has a web page dedicated to it - http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/plastic/plastic.htm 

-Brian


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## Guest (Nov 17, 2008)

EFP&CO, 
neither you (i suppose) nor your chosen scale are too small. 
the only disadvantage you will have with that scale will be few acessoiries and figures for your scale and few experienced people, that might give you hints. 
if you would choose 1:32 or 1:36 (1:35??) - the military scale - it might be easier. 

korm


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

*Thank You Brian! You gave me the answerI have asked for in my norwegian forum for months, within few hours!! I have enjoyed The Bellaire link! Much to learn !
- Oddvar
*


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks korm! 
The 1.35 scale will be a little to exspensive, and the Sections to large I think.
I`ve chosen the scale 1:50 because I have to build an indoor railway, and the Fleischman Magic Train Stainz is close to the original 0-4-0 German Budich PS 150. http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Magic%20Train%20Budich/P1270061.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/P1270060.jpg
- Oddvar
Excuse my language problems! Learning by doing


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

1/50 is close to our "O" scale 1:48. There is much available at that scale. I think you are off to a good start.


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Terribely nice pictures Richard







!The Snow and the lights from the buildings looks great! Suppose this is a G-scale? Tonight we got just "that white carpet" in our garden, but there is no railway out there! 
In Europe they call the 1:50 the Architect Scale, and Preiser have some of this people, unpainted.
Yes I want to use your "O" scale, its very close.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 11/16/2008 6:28 AM
Sounds interesting. 

Most of the stuff you'll see here is bigger scales like 1:32 through 1:19. 

Scrap material? Of course! Our favorite source.


Torby:

Um, isn't 1:20 like um, bigger than 1:19?







(grin)

Scrap material is my _preferred _source!

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

EFP&CO.


*Please* don't let your english bother you. After all, it is far better than my Norwegian! And, Welcome!









Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks for wlecoming Les!

It´s the "Way You look" we say in Norway, 1:50 looks real big now







!!
You´re all like big family! I really feel at home here, even with my 0n30 scale, and I´m sure Fowler feels welcome to.
He´s my hard-working good friend, he sent picts of his scratchbuildt 1:10 dieselloco, and he´s a really G-scaler! Look after his posts!
G-scale is´nt popular in Norway, in fact most of the used G-trains sold at net goes to our little town! Strange, we got more rain than the rest of the country, and a long cold winter!
I think it´s because of that Fowler guy!

OK, I´ll post more at myLargescale using my scoolenglish









oddvar


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

oddvar; 

The rusty old buildings you see in my photos are made from scrap material. They are made from beverage cans cranked through a Fiskar paper crimper. They are then glued on to a wood box made of plywood. Plastic windows are the only purchased items. Lighting is from Christmas lights.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Um, isn't 1:20 like um, bigger than 1:19? (grin) 




Since the 20 and 19 are both in the denominator, 1:20 is smaller than 1:19. 

And 5 out of 4 people don't understand fractions.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I understand fractions perfectly. It's SCALE that wrecks my brain!~!









For some reason, my brain just won't accept scale computations. I'm very fortunate to have guys like Allterrain and a couple of others to guide me along. Also, I suffer from CRS.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar,

I chose G gauge (1:20 scale) because it's big and I can see to build it easier. On my layout I will also have 0n3 and Sn18. I've always wanted a dual-gauge track, and the Gurus tell me 45mm and 0 gauge work out nicely. The Sn18 will be a mine gauge only, in one location.

Also, on building with scrap, my rails will be wood capped with flattened copper wire, to simulate the 'strap-iron' tracks used in this country before the Civil War. (1860). The wire is 12 gauge flattened to .015". I have lots of short pieces of copper wire lying around. The wood rails I don't know yet, I've got to find out which one bends best.

Your school english is good enough. Heh, better'n mine.









There are many very nice people on this board.

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hi Richard!
Do you model corugated steelplates useing the aluminium( sorry norwegian) from the cans? I have never heard about The Fiskar tool. Is it a expensive machine or a handtool?
I just love this old rusty steelroofs







. Though I have to follow the pictures I get from the line, most haveing stone shingles and pans? of brick material. But some few sheds had corr. steel.

Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Les:
I understand your choice, I would have done the same if we had weather for outdoor layout







. In front of my house there is a steep hillside which could be perfect to this purpose.
I´m sure my G-friends would appreciate this. 
Well, 0n30 is a perfect scratchbuiling scale, The sections can be transported, And I can do most of the doings in our home.

When I throw away my minus glasses I look the small details perfectly







Heh

Your rail-construction sounds a bit complicated? Are you going to glue the flattened copperstring at the top of a wooden strip? Will be interresting to see!

I use scrap copperwires to solder trees: http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Mandius%20Aarebrots%20hus/P1290056.jpg

Oddvar


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar

Here ya' go

http://www.michaels.com/online/product/DisplayEnlargedImage.jsp?imageName=sb0505.jpg


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar,

Oops, I failed to mention that my layout is indoors, it will be approximately 22x12 feet. I haven't begun building yet because I am repairing flood damage to wife's business and our house from last year.

My main interest is in scrachbuilding. My layout will be point to point (PP) and will consist of 'blocks' that are wired to be operated independently of each other.

The track is not so hard: I am going to experiment with a plywood called luan, which is used under flooring. That's why it is so cheap. It is 1/4" thick nominally, but runs both wider and thinner. I can cut it on my bandsaw and flex the narrow strips to see how tight a radius I can turn. Then I take the copper wire and run it through my slip roll to mash it flat. Takes about half a dozen passes. Then I think I will both nail and glue it to the wooden strips. Of course I will weather the wood first. Getting it wet might help it bend tighter. I intend to build my own switches, a type of switch called a 'stub switch'. It is simpler than the normal turnout (switch) used in brass rail.

I have only to run electric wires to my workshop (part of the laundry room) and hang an overhead light, and my 'model shop' will be ready and I can finally start. Then I will post pictures.

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Looks smart Steve!
Then the difficult question: What´s the distance top to top at the waves? Need about 2mm -1/8´´ in my scale.

Oddvar


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar

Afraid I can't help you with what the pitch on the Fiskars crimper is, but maybe you can get some use out of a topic that one of our other MLS members (i.e. Lawrence 'Yogi' Wallace) posted a while back where he made his own. That way you could have control over the pitch.

*Home Made Crimper*
File Format: PDF - File Size: 37KB
Left-click to Open / Right-click to Download a Copy

Also here's a link to Yogi's web site a lot of good information and ideas to be found there.

*The Bellaire Depot*
The Home Of
Lawrence "Yogi" Wallace


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks, Steve for posting the Fiskar tool (available at paper craft stores). I did measure the pitch and it is exactly 1/8 inch. I do soften the cans by cooking them in my wood pellet stove. The aluminum that Yogi uses is a very soft aluminum. Spreading glue fills the corrugations and helps prevent damage to the aluminum.

I have made some steel plate with seams by using a pizza cutter on a soft material such as flannel. Then make rivets with a tracing wheel (the device a seamstress uses to trace pattern on fabric).


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hi Les!
Sad to hear about the flood damage.
Your plan is not so far from mine; scratchbuildt, indoor, pont to point. 
I´ll use Styrofoam 4x2 feet in a frame of 1/4" plywood . I am familiar with lauan, used a lot of this when i buildt my first boat, Its a cheap mahogany plywood, its very hard. I told my friend to use Luan as trackbed, but it was´nt easy to get the rail nails down through the cork into the plywood







not a good idea to a friend. Plywood from pine is better, we found.
I recogniced a lot of fiberglass strips ,scraped at job, what about this as track- material? It´s very stable, weatherproof and strong.

My son is an electrician trainee, he helped me electrifying our garage, but the scrapcable I found at job had a ground-fault







? , so I still have to wait with the sections. Huh , next time I´ll test before i dig!!
I´ll look for your posts!

Oddvar

Steve and Richard: Thank You for the photo and links! Had only thought of corrugated cardboard to model corr. steel roof plates, but the way to make screw- imitation was real smart. I´ll look for these tools, The bender Amerimax, -have never seen anything like this in Norway,- got to search at net.

Oddvar


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar,

Yes, luan is not very forgiving. It's best feature is that it's cheap. I intend to put a 'stretcher' a piece of wood abt 1-1/2" W x 3/4" thick, also very cheap here, down the middle of the trackway or track bed because I have seen luan that has laminations on an angle with each other warp from humidity. Of course, one can watch to avoid this type of luan when picking it out at the lumber yard. Also, with its nominal 1/4" (actually more like 3/16 to 15/64") one can double it to have a piece of nearly 1/2" material. This is important because I want to build an open framework bench, so I can get terrain below track level where wanted.

I have a half-baked fantasy that modelling a mine below the level of the table might be very interesting. I've seen several pictures where guys create mine galleys (tunnels) with tram tracks, cribbing, everything, but leave one side open for viewing. The two examples I saw were very well done. We'll see.

As far as I know, fiberglass should work about as well as anything. I have little experience with it.

Can you tell me what your latitude and longitude is? Because I've spent all my life more or less in the middle of the US, I like to see other places on Google.

Good fortune with the wiring problem.

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hi Les.

Your plans seems very interresting, the mine project especially.
Had plans of a mine at my H0 board,modelling mountains, but this board is retreating? when the young daughter wanted a bigger room for herself.

I send You a message and hope you´ll "find the way acoss the ocean".









Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

_*The house of Mandius has got a little lifting at the 2. floor, and the color of windowframes was leaf green about 1945, so I had to break them out







and before painting, I tried to cut them more precisely. Now its time for building the arc.*_

_The snow is gone outside, so I had to imitate:_


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hello, and a Happy New Year to you all on MLS!

My little Scrap house has got uppgraded window frames, and an arc at front side.
Now I`ve started a tedious work at the roof: I scaled down the picture from the original skiffer shingles, printed them on thick grey cartoon, and then I cut out each row using a scissor.










Oddvar


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar, I hope that is the real background shot







Nice looking house, lots of detail!! keep posting pics, and how you did it.

tom h


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar:

Greetings, and hope you had happy holidays!

Today is my 65th birthday. I am now officially an old man.









The house looks very nice. Keep it up, and your pictures are always welcome.

Last week I finally got to start cleaning out the room where my train board will go. Today, wife and I did some more on it, Monday I'm going to the lumber yard and buy enough 1 x4's, luan, and furring strips (Cheap wood 3/4 x 1-1/2"). That should get me started. The first 'section' will be about 10' long x 36" wide. I wanted to stay with 32", as that's my best reach distance, and I ain't getting any younger. But the premade shelves that the board will be fixed to are already that width, so....

Tomorrow I will move the last bits of wife's store fixtures out, and then it will be ready to start Monday. The furnace I ordered two months ago isn't here yet, but I'm going to go ahead anyway. It only gets down to 55 deg F, which isn't bad by your standards. Our coldest day so far has been ~9 deg F. I have an electric heater when I don't feel like toughing it out, but it's expensive to run.

THe first thing I have to do is prove some concepts: my rail will be wood with 'iron' (really copper) strapping, like the early days of American RRing, and I have to build some sections, lay out some radii and find out exactly what I'm doing. Then I want to build a couple of stub switches, to prove them.

Hopefully, I can finally post some pixes of something I've done by next week!

My first building project will be a small shed for the railyard, again to prove my techniques, and gather tools to model.

Cheers,

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hello Tom!

The background is REAL, yes the little snow came last night, but if you meen the model background , I`m sorry, "Things take time" we say in Norway









friendly

Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

BIG-Greetings back Les







with Your Birthday!!
Thank You for giving positive feedback!

I look forward to follow your indoor project! The selfmade rail sounds very interresting, you must be the first to do this I suppose?
Lucky Guy who have a wife that gives her housband her store; for modelling a railway?? Great birthday gift?!








Wish you really good luck Les! and I`ll follow your postings!

Cheers 
Oddvar


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar

A most Happy New Year to you.

If I didn't know that was a model it sure wouldn't be easy making that decision. The new windows look nice, and the roof is living up to the rest of the work.

Thanks for the progress update.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By EFP&CO on 01/03/2009 4:32 PM
BIG-Greetings back Les







with Your Birthday!!
Thank You for giving positive feedback!

I look forward to follow your indoor project! The selfmade rail sounds very interresting, you must be the first to do this I suppose?
Lucky Guy who have a wife that gives her housband her store; for modelling a railway?? Great birthday gift?!








Wish you really good luck Les! and I`ll follow your postings!

Cheers 
Oddvar







Oddvar,

The self-made rails--I'm the only guy nuts enough to either attempt it, or admit it, on this board.







So far, no progress because I'm still trying to reorganize my shop--though I did find an old battery charger that yielded a 10 amp transformer, so now I can build a resistance soldering unit. I guess that's a little different 'building with scrap' than what you're doing, but it's sort of the same. I also stripped out some battery screwdrivers for the gears, got lucky and realized the brass strips for carrying high current to the motor will make (hopefully) good pickup shoes for the engine.

My wife didn't give me her store: the flood put her out of business.







However, she is a professional artist and will do all the painting/landscaping.









Hope you're keeping warm. My furnace still hasn't gotten here.

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hi Les!
Yes, we keep warm inside, burning wood night `n day. Ourside we had -14C that`s about +6F? My wife showels snow while I´m at job, and even early this morning, to secure we´ll not be tolate!
My son and I are soon ready with the new el. supply-cable to the garage, and so there will be a hard job to get the hobby-room empty from "all the things I could maybe re-use"!!








Late evening, I try to make progress at "the scrap house".

I´m lookin forward to see your wifes´backgrounds at your comeing indoor MR.

Oddvar.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By EFP&CO on 01/08/2009 2:04 AM
Hi Les!
Yes, we keep warm inside, burning wood night `n day. 
... so there will be a hard job to get the hobby-room empty from "all the things I could maybe re-use"!!









I´m lookin forward to see your wifes´backgrounds at your comeing indoor MR.

Oddvar.








Oddvar,

I too heat most of my house with a fireplace. One set up to do the job, instead of just decorative.

As for crying about cleaning out the hobby-room, I understand. I've been throwing stuff away for half a year now, and it's hard, sometimes. A couple of times, I've gone out to the trash cans and fished a certain item out and brought it back in. As a rule of thumb, after I throw something away, about six weeks later, I need it.

My wife does more than paint: she models figures, paints them, will do the painting and detailing on the rolling stock, and all the fiddly stuff. All I do is build 'em and make 'em work. On our last layout (years ago) I had to reroute a proposed track because she wanted a certain building on the proposed right-of-way. We have great fun working together.

Keep warm--hey, is the sun coming back, yet?









Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Hello!
Nice photolight today, I had to take the little scrap-house outdoor







. 
The frontwall has been renewed,to obtain the right distance between the big windows,










the arc is finished with detatchable roof, the big job to cut and glue all the shingles is finished, now its just to make the same job to the back side







. But first I have to confere with the grand-daughter of Mandius. Got no picts from that side, hope she can help me with that.
Still it´s not painted; haveing tried diffrent paints, but have´nt found the right semi-glossy effect. Some good ideas?









Changed size to pict.

Oddvar


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar,

I'm unfamiliar with the allusion to 'Daugther of Mandius'. I are jus' an' ol' *******.









Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Sorry Les







, Maybe the world is bigger than my "city" with less than 5000 inhabitans?

Well, Mandius was the one who got this house buildt, and I´m lucky that his daughter still lives in our town. She has supplied me with picts from the house, and now i need more picts! Have already done to much twice







. 
Else, The electric controller found just an missing earthwire,( we´ll fix it ) so now it´s good ´n warm in my little work-shed. An old tube radio makes some scratching noise, while I´m sorting screws and other funny small "neccesary things, it´s beautiful!
Have been permitted from work 2 weeks, now it\s 2 weeks at job and then 2 off --- on and on.

Oddvar

Even the sun shines in the mountains









http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Mandius%20Aarebrots%20hus/P1290314.jpg


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## kevrut (Jan 3, 2008)

Oddvar, 
I like the tree you made from the copper wire. Nice job. I need to try that myself. 
Kevin.


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2009)

i just weld the treetrunks at one point. the rest i fix with white glue and colour (for indoors!)


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oddvar:

'Mandius' looks like a Classical Latin name. So I naturally thought, "Ha, an historical or philosophical allusion." Anyway, you're doing a good job. I've been frozen out of my basement workshop for the last three weeks. In St. Louis MO, we've had a very bitter winter: it's gotten down into the single digits several times, and hovered around highs of 20 deg F in the afternoon. Once is was -2. We had the coldest December on record. I'm running out of firewood.

On the upside, I've gotten a lot of 'sorting' done of my own, train parts, R/C vehicles I bought last summer I've finally stripped the gears and plausible-looking casting from and pitched the rest. (I found two servos and two motor blocks that should work on the Fn18" portion of my RR, so it hasn't been a loss, despite having the flu.

You would probably be walking around outside in your shirtsleeves.

BTW, working tube radios are collector's items around here.

Les


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

*Hello Kevin.* 
Thanks! It´s fun to solder trees from copperwires! Good luck!
To make "Broken branches" I just draw the soldering-pen back after the tin has melted to the tree.

Good idea from kromsen to whiteglue the tree after the wires are soldered together, must try that!!

I´m now trying to epoxy-glue aluminium cable to make bigger light-weight trees. Can take picts. maybe. Its about 3/4" thick.

The white trees I used in the winterpictures is not selfmade







, they´re white painted plastic trees I found among chtistmas-junk at a local store, pretty expensive but really nice. Suppose they´re handmade, the branches are sampled and some texstil? is wrapped arond to make the tree-leg.

Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Les: Mandius is a very old and special norwegian name. 

Outdoor in shirtsleeves?? No I´m not a really wiking, the only clothing that works is wool in more layers







Today we have 22F ( found a switch-button at the back side) , so I can imagine You are doing indoor work when you get single digits!!

My wife and I have showeled snow for hours at our cottage today, so we kept warm, yes, but no shirtsleeves!

Not much smallscale work today, but I have contacted the owner of the house I´m building, and I´m welcome to take the measures I need at the hidden backside of the house.

Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Posted By EFP&CO on 02/07/2009 3:15 PM

Good idea from kromsen to whiteglue the tree after the wires are soldered together, must try that!!

I´m now trying to epoxy-glue aluminium cable to make bigger light-weight trees. Can take picts. maybe. Its about 3/4" thick.

Oddvar




Just had to try kormsens idea to white glueing the big aluminium tree. 

The first thing to do was to cut away the insulation at the lenght I wanted the leg to be. Bending out some at the end to make the rootstock, the center leaders, not bended, I think to fasten in a drilled hole the module.
I always degrease the wires before glueing, used rapide epoxyglue to the leg. After this was hardened, it´s time to cut away the rest of the insulation, bend the branches out, then more cleaning and whiteglueing.









It´s hard to fill the gap between the rough leaders, glued twice, but I think some filler-stuff must be added in the glue?










Oddvar


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar, 

Add some saw dust to the white glue for filler.Better yet if these are for indoor use you can try joint compound ( wall plaster ) or if for outdoors mortar mix and than coat with carpenter gkue for exterior use .Either will give you a carvable surface. 

Dave


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2009)

oddvar, 

my camera is broken. so at the moment i can't make fotos. 
but try to use the thinnest wire, you can get. - and take more of it. 
for example at the roots using different lengths, and twisting them around each other, the root gets thinner, the farther outwards it gets. 
same for the branches. if a branch consists of six or seven thin wires (twisted) you can first gable it, then let it run out in twigs. 

- and, using thin wire, the gaps fill easy. 
i usually use either the thin wire, florists use, or copperwire from burnt out electric motors. 

for the bark, depending on the type of tree you want to make, you can add some birdsand to the colour, to make it rougher. 
for leaves i use sawdust. 
normally i prepare three different shades of green. (more from the dark) then i dipp the twigs of the tree in white glue and give from the darkest sawdust on the glue. 
when its dry, a coat of thinned white glue, another coat of dark leaves, and so on. - till i am satisfied with the form. 
then some lighter "leaves" from above, and at last, some from the lightest green from below. 
for fruit trees there could bee another coat of "blossoms" 
the putting of the leaves takes much patience. 
to shorten the process, i have used small pieces of sponge. but that does not look as good for the foreground. 
may be, you could try using moss? i can't get moss here, so i don't know if it would be suitable. 

your idea to make a straight "root" down, to glue the trees in holes is great! i will try that next time i make trees. 

korm


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Thank you Dave.

I will try sawdust in the white glue, ´cause it´s for indoor use. I´m afraid the wall plaster will break if I bend the branches?

Oddvar


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Korm, thanks for your reply!

I´ve made trees from thinner copperwires to my H0 layout, This is an experiment







It looked awful, my wife concluded. But it´s strong and light! The wires are square formed and that´s what makes the big gaps.

As I´m on glueing, its no problem, I´ll add some thinner, but it will be copperwires. What about glueing natural dried "branches"?

Thank You for guiding in bark and leaves; I´ll try to copy this







Think I have some boxes ready leaves in my H0 shelves.
Do you dip glue in the watermixed glue at 2. and 3.-- coat? If, would´nt the leaves from 1. layer be looking very glossy?

Oddvar


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## Guest (Feb 10, 2009)

What about glueing natural dried "branches"?

i don't know. just try it! 

Do you dip glue in the watermixed glue at 2. and 3.-- coat?

well, we are talking about the 2. to 10. or 15. coat... 
i just dip the first time (in as thick a glue, as i can find) 
the later, thinned coats i apply with a pinsel (helps me to form the "leave-bushels" as i want) 

on the finished trees the inner coats of leaves are invisible. completely covered by the outer coats. (just when looking from below, they are somewhat visible) 
as i dye my "leaves" at home, the quantity used is no financial issue. 

i think, when my camera is fixed, i will make some trees (well documented). 

korm


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Oddvar, 
Try this link. Craftsmans corner may give you pictures of what you want as well as additional help.You can use twigs for branches, Babys breath has been used for years in other scales. Working indoors opens up all kinds of products for use.If you use the plaster just do a main branch or the trunk after you get it in the position you want it. If you decide to change it after it has dried yes it will crack a little, but this is easily repaired with a paint brush and more plaster. Using a paint brush to apply the plaster to begin with is good too.This method is used by many others as you'll find and it's carvable for bark detail. 
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/default.asp 

Dave


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