# Class A Climax Build



## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I've moved a lot over the past decade and unfortunately my hobby machine shop has not kept pace. As such, any projects I've taken up have had to require only very basic post processing (basic hand tools, dremel, drill press, etc). Thankfully, 3D printing is now just as assessable as it is sophisticated thanks to Shapeways.com.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The work so far


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

More pics of the progress


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I started with Accucraft West Side Lumber Co. caboose trucks. The spoked wheels are from Sierra Valley Wheelsets. The gears are made available by William Simonton through Shapeways and are exact copies from those on Climax #1551 (currently being restored for the Cass Scenic Railroad). I use SolidWorks to design the other custom parts and they arrive in the mail from Shapeways a few weeks later.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Prototype photos


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Had a chance to meet"steamermeister" in person at the train show in Lehi Utah,the climax trucks are rock solid ,beautiful looking and rolling with ease!

i am looking forward for spring time steaming with him on my garden layout  , mean time i am collecting buckets of distilled (i guess water) to run some trains


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

More prototype photos


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Well done so far! The Shapeways parts look fantastic. I imagine you had some machining on them to do as well? Is this the bronze infused stainless steel? how does it machine? Is it good and solid right through?


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Shapeways offers about 50 materials you can print with. The only two I’ve used so far are the stainless steel (shiny and slightly yellow) and matte bronze steel (as the name implies). Both of which are currently the least expensive metals available. So far as I can tell, the matte bronze steel is the stainless steel with a surface treatment of some kind (I can’t say if it’s bronze infused). For some reason, the part resolution is better with the matte bronze option. Possibly this is because the parts are sand blasted before being treated. The parts I’ve had printed so far cost an average of $15/each, so not unaffordable, but definitely not cheap considering the quantity required.

I’ve made every attempt to keep the amount of machining required to a minimum. The gear cross bearings have to be drilled out so that they slip fit the drive shaft and wheel axle (drill press at work). The pinion gears have to be drilled out to fit the drive shaft too (drill press at work). Also, the purchased shaft collars have to be drilled out to fit the Sierra Valley wheelset axles (lathe at work). By chance, the ring gears are an exact fit. The K&S tubing pinion gear spacers had to be sized by hand (mini pipe cutter & emery paper at home). Every now and then I have to shave down a surface with a dremel but that’s about it.

The parts that arrive from Shapeways are overbuilt by about 1/64” in all directions from the CAD models I upload to their site. One of my pics is of a pile of shiny stainless steel parts, all completely unusable mostly because of this overbuild issue (hmmm, $15 times one, two, three, four….). However, once compensated for most parts are quite literally ready to assemble right out of the box. 

It’s worth noting that the steel material in these parts is VERY hard and unfortunately, brass printing is cost prohibitive (replacing broken drill bits is way cheaper). When I started the ring gears and ring gear hubs were separate parts, just like the real thing. By some fluke, I was able to tap holes (00-90) to put one together but the rest were too hard to drill (forget about tapping). Thankfully, William was nice enough to offer a version of the ring gear with the hub already attached; definitely a huge step forward towards this being a doable project. One of the pictures I’ve posted is of the bolted version next to the combined version.

That all said, thanks mostly to 3D printing this project has already turned out better than in my wildest dreams. Definitely this won’t be the only project I use it for.


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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

*Machining Printed Stainless Steel*

I have had a number of parts printed in 1/8th scale. Drilling, filing, and tapping can be very difficult. However, turning and boring work very well and the machined surfaces are very clean and appear continuous and solid without any pitting or discontinuities. Allow what Climax refers to as "f" - a machining allowance for any surfaces to be machined due to the uneven surface of the printed stainless steel.

Do use carbide tools. A photo is attached of the milling of a 1/8th F509 Ring Gear.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Agreed. Before I got the gear/hub combination parts I did face off the rib on the front of some of the hubs which went easily enough (one of these is shown in my pile of unusable parts pic).


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Did you compensate for the overbuild by coming up with a percentage and reducing by that amount or just order them 1/64 smaller. I see the ring gears in the scrap heap but not the pinions. Did they mesh ok and just too big or was there a mesh problem because of the overbuild.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
on my 1:8 Climax both gears were ordered with the same scale factor and as you know they mesh very well. It does not look as if the overbuild is additive but rather a percentage. In my case it did not matter as Dennis and I designed the cross boxes to match. I will give some more details in the 1:8 Climax thread.
Regards


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I only compensate for overbuild in areas that are designed for clearance. My 1/64” rule of thumb comes from trial and error and I can only apply it to my own designs. I haven’t printed enough of my own designs to have a handle on other types of critical geometries like hole to hole spacing.  
The ring gears in the scrap heap photo are there because I wasn’t able to drill holes for the bolt pattern that attaches them to their hubs (also pictured). I was able to get some parts printed that combined the ring gear and the hub to solve this problem. I was able to drill and tap holes in one ring gear but the others were too hard. I don’t think overbuild would have been a problem though.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Gearbox*

Here's my progress on the steam engine/gearbox so far. The smaller set of gears on the top shaft slide along a square tube I've JB Welded to the steam engine drive shaft.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Your build is coming along nicely. Which A-Climax (tonnage) are you building? Which boiler type (vertical or horizontal)? Do you have any information about the frame construction e.g. number of sills, how the boiler is attached to the frame? The reason for my questions is, that I am kind of in the same boat as you are. 
Regards


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Mine’s going to be a vertical boiler. There’s not a lot of information on Class A’s apart from photos on the internet, and of these there are fewer vertical ones. I have some general frame sizing drawings for various tonnage horizontal boiler Class A’s courtesy of William Simonton but that’s all. If you like I can send them to you.

I have a pretty good idea of how I’ll approach the frame build and I’ll probably have some pictures on that posted this week. Mostly I’m trying to get the general look correct (as narrow as possible side to side and as short as possible front to back).


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

steamermeister said:


> Mine’s going to be a vertical boiler. There’s not a lot of information on Class A’s apart from photos on the internet, and of these there are fewer vertical ones. I have some general frame sizing drawings for various tonnage horizontal boiler Class A’s courtesy of William Simonton but that’s all. If you like I can send them to you.
> 
> I have a pretty good idea of how I’ll approach the frame build and I’ll probably have some pictures on that posted this week. Mostly I’m trying to get the general look correct (as narrow as possible side to side and as short as possible front to back).


I had hoped you had some more information about the frame/boiler. I have been in touch with William Simonton for quite some time, as my printed gears are also based on his 3D models. He also got me the overall frame size, but it still leaves a lot to be guessed. There was one (horizontal boilered) A-Climax in Alaska, but the guy who owned it took it apart and stored the metal parts in a trailer. He might have made drawings of the frame. Unfortunately he passed away last year and the fate of the loco is unknown (at least to me). I am looking forward to photos of your frame.
Regards


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good so far. The best place to get info on the climax is the book called The Climax locomotive. Amazone has them but you will pay close to $200 for one. I was lucky enough to borrow the book from a friend.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

snowshoe said:


> Looking good so far. The best place to get info on the climax is the book called The Climax locomotive. Amazone has them but you will pay close to $200 for one. I was lucky enough to borrow the book from a friend.


Shawn,
I own the book and I am even in touch with one of the contributors, courtesy of Bill. Unfortunately none of the pictures (including wrecks and derelicts) shows the frame design. Also boiler dimensions have to be extrapolated from pictures. There are some rough sketches in NG&SL gazette and the defunct Finescale & Outdoor(?) magazine, but they also show no details.
Regards


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*More Progress*

I'm getting close to completing the drive train. Here's some shots of the lower drive line.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Starting to look like something*

It's definitely starting to look like something now that there's some wood connecting it all together.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Looking very nice
Just curious. About how much did all of the Shapeways parts end up costing.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

$542.53 for a full set of all the Shapeways parts I've used so far. None of the parts I've designed are currently for sale and so that price only reflects what Shapeways charges to make them. I think $100 up-charge to offset the development costs ($3.44 extra for each of the 29 parts I did) isn't unreasonable. So, about $650 for the set.



2x Climax F217 With Trunnions -1-22.5 Scale
2x Climax F217 No Trunnions - 1-22.5 Scale
4x 509Gear-510Hub-22
4x Gear Box Link
4x End Bar
2x Male Slide
1x Female Slide
1x Gearbox
4x Quarter Cuff
4x Cross Box
2x Truck Bolster
1x Short Female Slide
6x Half Cuff


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Here's a list of the other major components I've had to purchase:

Accucraft WSL Caboose Trucks AP130-15 $76/pair
Sierra Valley 7/8" Scale 20" Spoked Wheels SEC-W20 $10/axle
2 5/8" Round Ceramic Burner $87
Gas Tank Connecting Pipe $25
TVR1A Steam Engine $350
Boston 48 Pitch 24 Tooth Gear Y4824 $13.80
Boston 48 Pitch 36 Tooth Gear Y4836 $16.68
Boston 48 Pitch 60 Tooth Gear Y4860 $35.10
Boston 48 Pitch 72 Tooth Gear Y4872 $42.40 

I'm going to build my own boiler and butane fuel tank so these costs aren't included. I expect I'll end up spending another $100 to $200 on steam fittings (valves, sight glass, pressure gauge, etc)


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I figure a complete locomotive costs $1500 +/- $200 depending on how much you scratch build/buy off the shelf.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The skew bevel gears are already for sale on Shapeways. Is there interest in having the rest of these 3D printed parts available to buy?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

That price is less than I would have thought
I was looking at the Regner Climax build on another thread and your trucks look so much better with the proper gears
Is your center frame from Shapeways?


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

steamermeister said:


> $542.53 for a full set of all the Shapeways parts I've used so far. None of the parts I've designed...


I am confused. Did you design the parts or are they based on William's models?
BTW, your interpretation of the frame design is very similar to what I came up so far. Only side sills, no center sills. In my design the cross members below the engine frame will not be interrupted.
You are very close to running it on air. Good luck! This is always an exciting moment,
Regards


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The skew gears are William Simonton's. He also gave me information on axle/driveshaft spacing for the cross boxes for which I'll have to figure out a fair trade if I start selling parts. The rest of the parts are of my own design though (gearbox frame included).


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

In this comment, the gears I reference are the ones that transfer motion from the steam engine to the lower drive line. Not the ones in the trucks.

As for the frame; from studying photos I'm pretty sure you're correct Henner about the cross members in the middle. I believe they continued side to side without breaks and that the short one was made that way so that there was enough clearance for the telescopic section of the universals. On my model, the bearing surfaces of the lower drive shaft are integrated into the 3D printed engine mount. I don't think this was the case on the real thing and that these bearings were separate and supported by the cross members that are cut on mine. My main reasoning behind these changes was that I wanted greater control over the gear mesh in the gearbox which I thought would be too difficult to achieve that in this scale (1:22.5) if the medium holding the steam engine and lower shaft together was wood. There are changes I could make to my design but the trial/error development costs are somewhat prohibitive (the engine mount "gearbox" costs $100 by itself). I think I would have to change the size of the spur gears so that the drive line could clear everything.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1774038

This guy makes a water pump for the Graham Steam Engine!


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Interesting. I could probably retrofit an Accucraft one for the job too. Unfortunately, I've already trimmed the crank shaft on the side without the gears. Oh well, I'll have to add this to my list of revisions for a second locomotive.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Air Test Successful!*


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Most of my tools (air compressor included) are in California where I hail from. As such, Lotsasteam graciously allowed me to test my assembly at his shop.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Congratulations on the successful air test. Was this done in "high" or "low"gear? 
Regards


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The top video is low gear and the bottom is high gear. The pinion gears transfer motion from the crankshaft via the square shaft they float on.


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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

It's very gratifying to see those gears working. Makes all the work in getting the gears and the other parts modeled feel like it's worth it.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks, this wouldn't be possible without your help.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

lotsasteam kindly offered to tune up my Graham steam engine. I picked it up today and it runs even better now than when the videos were shot. More to come.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Burner Fitting*

I've begun work on the burner. I cut out the steel foot plate with the CNC plasma cutter at work. It's a pretty tight fit.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good. For some reason your photos as attachments never load in the popup window always a black box and a spinning lines of loading. What Boiler are you using? You will need secondary air from the burner and the boiler bottom for it to fire. With the burner plate there is blocking. I was told about 1/3 of the boiler OD needs to be open for secondary air and about 2/3 for the burner size. I followed that on my Ceramic burner boiler and it steams perfect.


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Jay,
Same thing happens to me with the pictures. If you click through all the pictures the first time all you will get is the spinning circle, but on the second time through you will get the pics. At least that's how it works for me.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The same thing happens to me when the pictures load but only for about a second. Maybe it's your internet connection or the web browser you use (I use Fire Fox).


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

As for the boiler. I'm going to build my own. I have a De Winton Quarry loco I built over a decade ago that uses the same sort of burner. On that one, the only air flow after the air mixer is a small fire door. Despite the confined space it burns perfectly. The only real difference is the burner diameter, 2 1/8" vs. 2 5/8" on the climax. I've also accounted for increased exhaust by increasing the flue cross sectional area proportionally.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Huh, If I click on the thumbnail, then double click the black box it open in another window ok. IE and Chrome I use. Also have Firefox. Connection is fast its Fiber.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work so far. Going to look good when done. Pictures loading fine for me using Chrome.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Yeah, that's all I got for suggestions on internet/picture loading. I'm no IT expert.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Burner mounting complete*

The burner mount is now finished and blackened. It's held to the frame by two bolts at the back. The burner stem keeps the other end from moving.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*My 3D printed parts now available*

The 3D printed parts I developed for this build are now available for sale through Shapeways. Click this link=> http://www.shapeways.com/shops/SteamerMeister

The gears are William Simonton's design and can be purchased through Shapeways as well. Click this link=> http://www.shapeways.com/shops/ClimaxShop?section=Climax+1/22.5th+Parts&s=0

It's important to note that my parts are meant for use with his 1:22.5 gears.

As mentioned previously, the part "cross box" was designed using measurements provided by William and so I've decided to offer it free of charge. Of course it's not actually free (you still have to pay Shapeways to make it). All other parts have a $3 mark up.
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/SteamerMeister


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Fire*

Fuel system installed


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*boiler testing*

Since I last posted a lot has happened. I discovered that my ceramic burner would not stay lit in confined spaces. I suspect that the gas jet may be the wrong size, or it may be clogged slightly. In any case, I decided it would be better to keep the momentum of the project going rather than get hung up on this so I bought a Regner boiler (40333 Mini Vertical Boiler RTR).


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The first pictures show the new foot plate I had to build (before and after blackening) and the boiler itself. The next shots show it mounted to the frame with some test plumbing (rubber hose and no lubricator). Currently it does turn over but a lot of the steam passes through the engine intake and out the exhaust without contributing to motion. I suspect the engine needs more tuning so more air tests to come.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

it run ok on air,squirt some steamoil into the line and try again!Manfred


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I went back and looked at the photo of the burner burning and the flame looks very weak. It looks like it may be too rich (not enough air)
This can be caused by 
1. jet too large - I usually end up with a .008 diameter
2. Not enough air holes or too small
3. jet too far into the tube
4. Tube too short needs to be at least 1.6" long

Also, i noticed a hole cut in the tube after the jet air holes. not sure what that is all about
Here is the look I try to get. You can see the element is bright and the flame is strong


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Actually, i misspoke.
On the length of the tube, it should be six times the inside diameter of the jet tube or 1.9" from the center of the air holes to the end of the tube for a 5/16" jet.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I knew it definitely wasn't burning right based on my experience with another locomotive I built that also has a ceramic burner. I didn't know enough to troubleshoot the problem without experimenting. Thanks for the burner info.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Ok, apparently the side on the steam engine you choose to be the intake and exhaust is really really important (when all else fails, read the instructions). I hooked the steam line into the other side and it ran perfectly (forwards/reverse/high gear/low gear). It'll run on next to no pressure too. In all, it took 6 minutes to build pressure to 35psi and ran for 22 minutes. Next up, real plumbing and some track time.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Fancy Plumbing & Water Tank*

Fancy plumbing started. Dummy water tank mounted


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Only on a "D: valve engine as the steam pressure on the exhaust side will lift the valve off it's seat
Glad it was an easy fix


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks. Yeah, I'm glad that was it and that I don't have to tear it all apart and put it back together again.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Gear Lever Mounted*

Yeah, it's the same one Accucraft uses on the Ruby.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Decking Complete*

The decking on either side of the engine is removable for access to the bolts at the gearbox and engine mount.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Prototype Photos*

As this project comes closer to clompletion, I focusing more on the aesthetic details of the locomotive. I've found a few more photos but it's still the case that ones of vertical boiler Class A's are hard to come by. Here's what I've found. If there's anything I've missed, please let me know.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Exhaust Plumbing and Cab*

The last elbow I was short on for the exhaust arrived today. I'm still waiting for one last metric tube union to screw into the boiler (currently in the mail from a different supplier). I started work on the cab over the weekend.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

what is the roofing material?


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

150 grit sandpaper cut into 1 1/2" strips.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Plumbing Done*

I finished the plumbing today. Unfortunately the space between the lubricator and boiler was too small to fit a pipe coupling so it was bridged with rubber hose, which, surprisingly can hold back about 30psi (plenty for this engine) before starting to leak. Here's some pics of the loco after the run. The run video will be ready soon.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Your loco project is a superb piece of work. Thanks for sharing your step-by-step building progress.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thank you. There's still a little left to go. I'm waiting on a set of 3D printed post pockets and a 3D printed stack but it's basically done.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

*On track*

Now to see how it runs on track and LOW speed and LOWER speed.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Soonish. I'm out of town this weekend.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Plumbing Amended*

So I couldn't get over the bit of rubber hose still left over after I had put in all those fancy pipe fittings so I've replaced the rubber sleeve with a soldered in copper one. The only drawback is that now if I wan't to remove the lubricator, the boiler has to come out first. I've also made some more progress on the cab but mostly I'm biding my time until my 3D printed post pockets arrive. Then the locomotive can be completed. Steamup on real track this weekend assuming it doesn't rain again.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Locomotive Complete*

I'm considering adding clutter to give it a more lived in look but the locomotive is essentially complete.


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Impressive build!...nicely put together. Thanks for sharing the construction details...


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

SteamerMeister, 

Impressive build! I am in the process of building a Climax locomotive myself. I am using the TVR1A engine as well and am going to use the PM Research Vertical Boiler. My design is loosely based on a 7/8" Scale . I am not that particular on scale so a lot will be done on the " that looks about right" scale. I don't want to hijack your thread, I will have to start one of my own to show my build so far but could you provide me some information on the gear reduction that you used. I am at this point in my build and I want to do a High/ low as well but I have been wrestling with the ratios. 

Scott B


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow your Climax came out great. Its been fun following your progress. Do you plan on weathering the wood?


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I have weathered wooden models in the past but this one I'm going to leave factory fresh. I'm sure it will get plenty dirty all by itself given enough run time.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Gear Box info*

Here are the gears I used on my Climax. The 24 tooth gear pairs with the 72 tooth gear and the 36 tooth gear pairs with the 60 tooth gear. The main consideration for a gearbox of this type is that you choose gear pairings that have equal shaft to shaft separation. The effective radius of the 72 tooth gear plus the effective radius of the 24 tooth gear is equal to the effective radius of the 60 tooth gear plus the effective radius of the 36 tooth gear. As shown in the specification drawings I got these through Amazon and as you can imagine there are many other gear pairings that work (PDF spec drawings are downloadable from the site). Other things to think about when designing one of these gear boxes is that the shaft to shaft spacing has to be large enough that the lower shaft (including all bearing surfaces) can pass beneath the base of the steam engine but not so large as to hit the rails. Also you need to consider how much space is required for the gears to slide past each other for gear changes.


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

Steamermeister, Thanks for the information. One of my main concerns was the ratio and I can calculate the ratio from the gears that you used.


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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

*12 & 15 Ton Class A Dimensions (Trucks & Frames)*

The following are links to pdf drawings of a 12 Ton Class Climax Truck Frame, and dimensions of the 12 & 15 Ton Class A Climaxes taken from Climax Mfg. Co. Drawings and Specifications.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/SIMONTON/Class+A+Truck+Frame+Complete.pdf

https://s3.amazonaws.com/SIMONTON/Class+A+12+&+15+Ton.pdf


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Pictures from the first run*

Pictures from the first run


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Box*

Travel Case Built


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Gas Tank Filler Valve Rebuild*

The gas tank filling valve has leaked a little around the nipple since I first got it. Honestly this hasn't been as big a concern as it sounds since the burner is fully enclosed but was definitely something to address eventually. More annoyingly, the nipple Regner uses on their filler valves is a different size than used by EVERY OTHER manufacturer making fueling more difficult. Here some pics of the rebuild. I drilled out the Regner valve and threaded it for a standard Accucraft one. Also I was able to cut the Regner valve body in half since it's now just an adaptor between the tank and the new valve (maybe 5% greater fuel tank capacity). I ran the locomotive again on rollers after the rebuild and it runs just as strong as ever (this time without leaking).


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Are you using an Accucraft valve?
If so, I have found that the newer valves have a smaller diameter nipple and a standard butane can will slip over the nipple and leak rather than forming a seal at the top of the nipple. I had to make an extension with a smaller diameter hole to work with the new valves.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Interesting, the replacement valve I used certainly isn't new because I've had it in my parts bin for about 5 years. Maybe it's an older version or it may be some other brand (I didn't keep the original packaging). I think it's Accucraft but I don't know for sure.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

No
The older ones seem to be fine.
I measured a new one vs an old one and there is only 2 or 3 thou difference but it is enough to make a difference


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Here's a link to my Google Drive Build Log folder: 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B...owTUNmc19SeWdpaU1SOWZBbVRhZEJTNmk1d20xYjQ1ME0


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

New log disconnect cars.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

New log disconnect cars.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

New log disconnect cars.


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## Modeltdude (May 16, 2015)

Hello , do you by chance have time to build both trucks for resale ??? 

Darren 

[email protected]


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Climax Components for Sale*

Sorry for the delayed reply, I've been rafting down the Grand Canyon for the last couple weeks and have just now returned home.

As for your request, I've decided against going into business building climax components. It is not too difficult to build them yourself though. Here's the shopping list for one pair of trucks:


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

There's a few other parts I forgot:

1 length - K&S 13/64" Brass Tubing (for use as a drive shaft spacer)
4 per truck - Set Screw Shaft Collar for 3/16" shafts (McMaster-Carr 9414T5) 

There's also a washer between the cross block and the large skew bevel gear (2 per truck) that acts as a spacer. I forget exactly what it is but it's unimportant. All that matters is the spacing between the gears and the cross block. Some trial and error will get you there.


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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

Steamermeister,

You forgot the Female Slide (2).

https://www.shapeways.com/product/MAR94ERE3/female-slide?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56103359


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

You're right. That's part of why I don't want to get involved in building these assemblies for sale. Because the telescopic universal joints aren't sub-assemblies in themselves you can't build the trucks without eventually building the entire driveline. One half is tied into a truck and the other the gearbox.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Work begins on Climax #2*

Tonight I started work on the gearbox for Climax #2 or as I like to think of it, Thing 2 (The first one's Thing 1). A few months ago I moved again. This time from Salt Lake City, Utah to Ann Arbor, Michigan. My machine shop is still in California though so I'm having to come up with some creative ways to get by without any of that stuff. This locomotive will be like the last in that most of the drive train mechanics will consist largely of 3D printed stainless steel parts. Many of which I've revised so that they function better in one way or another. The only "machining" I had to do for the gearbox was to drill out the drive shaft hole a few thousandths of an inch and to drill and tap the gear hubs for set screws. Both operations I did with a hand power drill with parts held in a C-clamp. Crude, but it worked. My CAD model for this part has since been edited so in the future the part will be ready to go right out of the box. The universal links are soldered directly to the drive shaft.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Thing 1*

Here's some new shots of Thing 1. I've added some more detail since I last posted about it.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Gearbox Complete*

Here's some shots of me the adding of universals to the gearbox and the completed gearbox module. After bolting the universal rings together, I set the nuts in place with cyanoacrylate glue so they won't loosen over time and then I cut them to length with a Dremel.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Engine has arrived*

The engine arrived today and so I set to work on the modifications needed. The base plate gets sanded flush to the bearing block on one side in order to accommodate the sliding gears. This I did with a Dremel. The K&S square tubing I use on the output shaft for the sliding gears is ever so slightly too large for shaft (the next size down too small). I remedy the gap by wrapping the shaft with two very narrow strips of clear packing tape, single thickness, which act as a shim. I've tried to show this in the first two pictures. I then put some JB Weld inside the square tube and slid it in place.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Ruby johnson bar to Climax gear change lever*

Tonight I converted the Ruby forward/reverse lever. You can see how it gets used by looking at photos of the first build. The first picture shows the stock Ruby lever and servo EZ connector. The next shows the spring pin from the Ruby lever and the EZ connector which I will be soldering together. I've cut off the servo pin from the EZ connector but have left a tiny bit left so that there will be space for solder to penatrate the joint I will make. The next shows the two parts clamped together with a Vise Grip, ready to be soldered. The resulting part had a little too much solder but at least none of it went anywhere I didn't want it to go. The last two show the completed assembly. The excess solder I removed by sanding with a Dremel.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Small Things*

I can't really get going on the trucks yet because I'm still waiting for my Sierra Valley wheels. I can 3D print wheels but would prefer not to because the cost would be over 400% more, so until they show up I've been focusing on the things I can do. Here are some pics showing the progress of the gear change lever mount made using some scrap angle I had around (this part gets epoxied to the frame). The newest version of the 3D printed gearbox has the gear change lever mount integrated into the design so this will be the last time I make one.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*The Beginings of a Frame*

For this locomotive, the gearbox has been updated so that it mounts more prototypically. These pictures show the gearbox cradles which for now have been left overly long on purpose since I wont decide on the final locomotive width until I have the boiler.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Prototype photos*

By the way, here's what I'm going for this time.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Shaft Collars and Sliding Gears*

There aren't a lot of parts to this locomotive that require real machining. In fact, if you were willing to forgo the two speed setup and go with a single speed instead, the whole thing could be built with just a drill press, dremel, some sand paper and a propane torch. This weekend I flew back to California to visit and since that's where my lathe is I knocked out the few parts that require it while I was there. Four shaft collars need to be drilled out in order to fit on the Sierra Valley wheel axles (still waiting for those by the way). With some patience, they could foreseeably be drilled out using a drill press since the accuracy of the holes isn't that important. For the sliding gear pair the centers of the stock pinion gears are drilled out to fit 1/4" K&S brass square tubing. Of course the hole concentricity needs to be accurate in order for the gears to mesh properly, hence the use of a lathe. The hole diameter needs to be accurate too because the square tube is press fit. To do this I step drill starting with a 9/32" bit, then using a 5/16" bit and then finishing with a #R bit. From past experience I've learned that if I were to jump straight to the #R bit, the hole would likely end up being over sized. After this I use my drill press to push the square tube in place and then I cut off the extra material with a Dremel. The friction from the press fit is very strong but I also seal the joint on the inside with cyanoacrylate glue (crazy glue) and then sand both ends smooth. I brought enough materials to build two sliding gear pairs just in case I messed one up. I didn't though, and I may use the extra one on a third locomotive.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

This is a fascinating project and I'm enjoying following your progress.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for the comment. As an mechanical engineer by trade, I look for design solutions that are easy to implement with minimal risk for error. I like to think these Class A's are a reflection of that.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Test Fitting Sliding Gears*

The sliding gears aren't quite done yet. They still need the components that link them to the gear change lever. Today I did a test fit though and I'm happy to say they slide and mesh perfectly.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Really fine looking machinery!


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Sliding Gears Finished*

Today I finished the sliding gears. The tear drop shaped part I've called the gear selector is sized to have a slip fit on the gear hub while the ring shaped part I've called the gear selector retainer is sized for a loose press fit on to the hub. Both parts are 3D printed in bronze infused stainless steel like many of the other custom metal parts I use. The pusher wire gets soldered into the barrel on the gear selector before both it and the retainer are fitted to the hub. The chamfered inside edge on the gear selector retainer allows for a maximum amount of JB Weld to be smeared into the joint. I chose glue over solder for the joints on this intricate assembly because the risk of messing up is too great. I will bend the pusher wire once I have enough of the frame done that I can mount the gear selector lever. The black mark on the gear hub is so I can keep track of how the sliding gear should be set on the steam engine's square shaft since it slides most easily oriented in one way than in the other three.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow amazing work so far. I wish I had your skills to do something like this. Maybe one day.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The skill comes from being able to break down something complicated into smaller parts which, by themselves are simple. Attempting the complicated all at once is always difficult.


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

steamermeister said:


> The skill comes from being able to break down something complicated into smaller parts which, by themselves are simple. Attempting the complicated all at once is always difficult.



Hmmmm never really looked at it that way. Good advise thanks.


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

There aren't a lot of parts to this locomotive that require real machining. In fact, if you were willing to forgo the two speed setup and go with a single speed instead, the whole thing could be built with just a drill press, dremel, some sand paper and a propane torch.

As per your statement above if you were to go with a single speed what gearing would you use? would you go with the high or the low gears? 

ScottB


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The first Climax I built runs equally well in both speeds but I usually run in low gear. That's the 24 and 72 tooth pairing.


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

My climax loco build was put on hold for quite some time as other projects got put in front of it. I hope to get back to my build in the near future, I think I will follow your lead and go with the Low gear ratio. I have watched your videos and if that is the low ratio on those runs it appears very scale like.


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## Wizard69 (Feb 4, 2016)

Wow, talk about a wonderful madness! This is a great build effort and I'd like to thank you for all the details you have supplied. 

I might mention that I viewed every video you linked and I don't normally do that on LTE. I don't like to burn bandwidth but I just couldn't stop!


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for the compliment. You may want to check out Ed Hume's work also as he's done a bunch of geared locomotives and is currently working on a Class A of his own. (Google image search Ed Hume Climax)


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*More Wood*

Got enough of it put together to mount the gear change lever.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*The Boiler has Arrived*

My Roundhouse Katie boiler arrived earlier this week which has allowed me to decide on the placement of the larger subassemblies that will drive the general look the finished locomotive will take. Truck bolsters have been glued in to the frame and soon the boiler itself will be mounted, though probably not until next week (ski trip this weekend = no loco progress). Here's some shots of the more tangible progress I've made. Both the rectangular Climax plates and the number plate are 3D printed from Shapeways. If you use your imagination you can read CLIMAX LOCOMOTIVE WORKS CORRY, PA circled around the rim of the number plate. Apparently there are limits on the resolution of bronze infused stainless steel 3D printed parts but I'm still pretty impressed considering that those letters are only .040 inches tall.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Boiler Mounts*

The boiler mounts are nearly done. They just need to be painted and frame bracket holes threaded 2-56. The horseshoe shaped thing in the middle of the front boiler mount is there to keep the wooden frame from catching fire should flames exit the similarly shaped hole on the bottom of the smoke box. The front mount plate is modified from a part that came with the Roundhouse boiler.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Boiler Attached*

Got the boiler stuck down today. Things are a little tight around the gearbox because of the burner stem but there's still enough clearance.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow , looking good. Yes that's tight, good thing you don't have to shovel coal.


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## paperwarrior (Mar 6, 2016)

I just found this forum and zeroed in on this thread. 

Great craftsmanship. Your Climax is a wonderful model and runner.

I look forward to seeing more of the new one come together.

Jeff


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for the comment. Like most live steamers, the Climax #1 has it's quirks but that it's a strong runner can't be denied. It has about as much torque as most track powered locos and is easily as flexible as the real ones could ever have been.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Deck mostly done*

Over the weekend I decided I knew enough about how the plumbing will go that I could get going on the deck. The dummy water tank is a single plastic Shapeways 3D print, under which the fuel tank will be mounted.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Steam Lines Done*

I had enough of my ducks in a row after work today so I managed to bang out all the steam lines. I completed the decking a few days ago. The planks that run beside the steam engine are removable in the same fashion as on the first build. The only difference is that I've blackened the brass mounting bracket. Also, I've made public the folder in my Google Drive where I store these photos. 

Here's the link for Climax #2: 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B42JiZpDrwFSUG14cnd0eFlGZTQ&usp=sharing


Just as a reminder, here's the link for Climax #1:

https://drive.google.com/folderview...dpaU1SOWZBbVRhZEJTNmk1d20xYjQ1ME0&usp=sharing


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Truck Cores Complete*

I finally found some Sierra Valley SECW20S wheelsets hiding in France about a week ago and they arrived today. So began another git-er-dun marathon. I did my best to take pictures along the way.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Mostly Together*

The trucks are finished and mounted, and I'm done adding wood to the frame. If I had a compressor around I could do an air test. All that's left is to finish the fuel system, cab, and add some detail bits.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Air Test*

Thing 2 passed it's air test! I managed to borrowed an air compressor for it. It runs equally well in all forwards, reverse, high gear, low gear combinations. Sorry about the sound quality. My thumb likes to join the action on sound editing. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oQWhMu9xm8&feature=youtu.be


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Forward/Reverse Lever*

Those of you with sharp eyes may have noticed something odd about the forward/reverse lever in yesterday's You Tube air test: it was reverse mounted. This is because on this locomotive you push the lever down for the locomotive to go forwards; the engine runs most smoothly when the lever is in the furthest notch, and the floor is in the way preventing this. On the first Class A, this is not really a problem because I consider the boiler to be in the back, meaning the locomotive moves forward when the lever is up instead. Sure, I can't move the lever into full (engine runs smoothest) reverse because it runs into the floor but since I usually run forwards I don't really care. Besides, it's not like the locomotive can't go backwards as there are multiple forwards/reverse notches, it's just better at going forwards than backwards. This time though, it's a problem because on #2 I consider the boiler to be in the front and I don't like it when I can't run as smooth or better in forwards as in reverse. Had I thought about this earlier I probably would have mirrored the engine from the last build instead of directly copying it. The gears would have been on the other side of the crankshaft and the engine would be turned around so that the intake and exhause sides would be opposite where they are now. That said, it's waaaaay too late for that now. Reverse mounting the lever works, kinda. You get past the problem with the floor but now it's more difficult to move the lever at all. Despite this, I've come up with a solution that is both more simple and more effective, not to mention that I can actually apply it in this instance. All that's required is a 45 degree bend in the handle made as close as possible to the brass grip. With this, I can easily move the lever though the whole range. The steel wire used for the lever is very stiff though, so it has to be heated red hot with a torch before bending. Here's some pics of the result. I'll make the same modification to #1 so it can go in full reverse when I get a chance.


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

Steamermeister, 

Congratulations on a successful air run! I have been following this build with great interest. I have a thought on your running better in reverse than in forward issue, Correct me if I am wrong here as its just a thought. In looking at the pictures of your trucks / gear train it looks as though you could rotate your axle boxes 180 degrees on the axle placing the spur gear on the opposite side this would reverse the rotation of the axle. Am I thinking correctly????? Is this a possibility???????

Scott


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

The issue has been resolved with the "golf club" modification of the forward/reverse lever but yes, you are correct. That said, I've studied a lot of Class A Climax photos and can say that running the drive shaft below the axles is inaccurate.


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## ScottB (Jan 8, 2010)

Yes I agree I saw your simple fix with the " golf Club" reversing lever. I was just thinking of a alternate way of reversing the rotation. I agree also that the driveshaft below the axles would not be correct. I was thinking that the axles could be rotated 180 degrees in the other direction keeping the driveshaft above the axles but you have solved the issue in a much simpler way. Looking forward to future updates on this build.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Ok, now I think I see what you're getting at. Here's the thing, you can do that with normal bevel gears because the teeth are a mirror image from one side of the diameter to the other. You can't with skew gears because they're not. You would need a mirror image skew bevel gears with teeth spiraled the opposite way.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Cab & Other Details*

I've started work on the cab and have begun adding other details here and there. The cab will be removable in the same fashion as on the first Climax. For lettering on wood I like to use rubber stamps and ink. The Climax stamp is a Shapeways print while the Shady Creek Lumber Co stamps were done by a custom rubber stamp maker (though they were made so long ago I can't remember who made them). For other lettering I use a type setter's stamp kit, something you can get at most office supply stores, which allows you to configure letters, numbers and other characters however you wish.


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## WES (Oct 31, 2012)

*Climax Paint*

The Climax left the factory painted Black with White Letting & Logos. Once the locomotive were as distressed as yours (no paint) all Climax logos would be extinct, although the logging company lettering in black could be added.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I wish I knew of a good way to do white lettering other than with decals or vinyl stickers. As for paint, there's only a few photos I've seen where a Class A is painted black. In most photos they're either unfinished or painted with lighter colors.


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## bonzo1953 (Dec 27, 2007)

I used dry transfers from DJB Engineering on my DJB Engineering Class A Climax.
http://http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/2014-DH-Tribe/DH14-Tribe-Train03.jpg
You might check with them to see if they still provide dry transfers. 
http://www.djbengineering.co.uk/
I used a water based polyurethane brushed over the transfers to seal them. 
They have held up well over the years.
Your Class A looks great. Good work.
Keep 'em Steamin'
John


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## bonzo1953 (Dec 27, 2007)

Mmmmmm. The southernsteamtrain link did not work.
Try this:
http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/2014-DH-Tribe/DH14-Tribe-Train03.jpg

John


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

What are dry transfers. are they different than vinyl


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Interesting, I've heard of dry transfers but I don't really know anything on the subject. Any more suggestions for guys who do custom dry transfers? It's a bit late for this project but I could definitely use them in the future. For surfaces other than unpainted wood I use masks. This is how I did the numbering on the water tank. First the part was painted white, then I placed a pair of "2" stickers on the sides and then I spray painted the whole thing black.


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## bonzo1953 (Dec 27, 2007)

Google 'dry transfer letter set' or 'Letraset' or 'rub on dry transfer'. Wikipedia has info & there are youtube videos as well. There is a lot available out there. They are different than vinyl.

Keep 'em Steamin'
John


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Cab & Characters*

The cab is coming together nicely and now the loco has some people to drive it. I don't have figures on all my engines but ones with open cabs like this seem a bit off without them. For this build I've decided to go with RailRoad Avenue figures which at 1:20.3 are more correctly scaled than the Woodland Scenics guys I have on the first build (1:22.5 I think). It may sound nit picky but I always felt as though the Woodland Scenics figures were too small for the space. The RailRoad Avenue ones however are just right; so much so that I've decided to replace the Climax #1 crew with them.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Getting closer...*

Here's a shot of the current level of completeness. I'm one stick short of a complete roof structure and have begun adding tar paper (used fine grit sandpaper). The pen marks are there to show the paper layout. The not yet complete fuel tank is in front. There's more to the fuel tank story but I'll get to that once I've finished it.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*It's Alive!*

After a bit of tweaking I managed to get some good runs in. I didn't time the run but it was long enough for me to be thoroughly bored of watching it.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*About the fuel tank*

In the attached photo are the three fuel tanks associated with this build. The one I ended up going with is made with various pipe fittings silver soldered together. The one on the bottom right is the Roundhouse tank that came with the boiler which unfortunately was poorly shaped for this project. Perhaps I'll use it on some future build. The third tank was 3D printed using the same bronze infused stainless steel material that I've used in a lot of the custom parts for this and the first build. As I've stated previously, this material is near bomb proof. In my experience these parts can only be altered easily by grinding or abrasive cutting. I've destroyed a lot of drill bits working with it. However, because it is slightly porous you cannot use it for pressure vessels. In testing the printed tank I found air escaping through the surface itself. So, the material is great because parts made from it will never wear out but you can't use it for everything.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Settling in for Another Run*

So I've been running Thing 2 on the rollers almost every day since I got it all together so I can get a sense of how to get it to run it's best. Overall it runs really well. Big thanks to Lotsasteam for the super fine tuning of the Graham engine. Even with average tuning these engines are really efficient and can run on next to nothing for pressure. Because of it's tuning this one creeps along smoothly even at extra slow speeds. The only thing I'm currently having issues with is low fuel pressure due to tank cooling. For now I've been using oxidizing hand warmers to mitigate this but they only manage to raise the temperature from freezer burn to hypothermic. On my Aristo Mikado (in the box on the shelf in the first photo) I run a hot water heater off the boiler, which works really well. Unfortunately Roundhouse is a bit stingy with the boiler bushings nowadays so adding this feature will be a bit of a headache. If anyone has feedback on clever solutions it would be greatly appreciated. Final note, this time I managed to time the run. It went continuously for nearly an hour from the time the engine began turning over until it finally died.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Have you tried a butane/propane mixture?


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## bonzo1953 (Dec 27, 2007)

Impressive run! I assume you had to add water during the run? I see a pump bottle in the photo.
If you are up to making another tank or two you could locate them on both sides of the boiler and they would be warmed from the boiler. The DJB Engineering Climax has a tank made from square tubing shaped like an 'A' that sits under and around the boiler. Another fitting on the boiler would be nice so that you could run a utility car with a water pump. Kieth Manison from Jamaica made several Class A Climax's, the 'Gold Bug' had a crankshaft driven pump geared down with by-pass valve. I have added plumbing on my DJB Climax so I can run a utility car with a 6 position switch to select a different number D batteries to vary voltage / pump speed. I also added a valve and check valve so I can vacuum refill from the water tank at the rear at the end of a run. 

Keep em' Steamin'
John


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

bille1906 said:


> Have you tried a butane/propane mixture?


I did for some of the first runs with similar results but that was before I started using the hand warmers. I guess I ought to try using both for the next go.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

bonzo1953 said:


> Impressive run! I assume you had to add water during the run? I see a pump bottle in the photo.
> If you are up to making another tank or two you could locate them on both sides of the boiler and they would be warmed from the boiler. The DJB Engineering Climax has a tank made from square tubing shaped like an 'A' that sits under and around the boiler. Another fitting on the boiler would be nice so that you could run a utility car with a water pump. Kieth Manison from Jamaica made several Class A Climax's, the 'Gold Bug' had a crankshaft driven pump geared down with by-pass valve. I have added plumbing on my DJB Climax so I can run a utility car with a 6 position switch to select a different number D batteries to vary voltage / pump speed. I also added a valve and check valve so I can vacuum refill from the water tank at the rear at the end of a run.
> 
> Keep em' Steamin'
> John


Yes, I do have to add water during the run because the fuel tank is just barely too large. On earlier runs I've run the boiler dry or nearly dry; the fuel running out only a minute or so after the water's gone. For adding water, the goodall I have under the sand dome is good enough for me considering the lack of boiler hook up points. The pressure gauge didn't even get a bushing. If it did I could tee off that. I've seen pictures of the Gold Bugs but have yet to see one move, let alone in person. I'd love to get a closer look, even if it's only on YouTube. Nearly 20 years ago an inch square photo of a Kieth Manison Gold Bug in Garden Railways sparked my fascination with the Class A. From what I can tell it's a much larger loco, possibly 7/8" scale. I'm not sure I'd have space on one of mine for a drive shaft pump.


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## bonzo1953 (Dec 27, 2007)

I think Keith's Class A's and David Bailey's were all the same scale 1:20.3. We used to have midnight Climax races at Diamondhead MS ~1999-2001.

Looking through back issues of Steam in the Garden I found several issues that had articles by Keith Manison about his ‘Instant Climax’.
November – December 1999 Vol. 10 No. 5, Issue No. 53 is the follow up last article that discusses the gear box (pages 33-35).
May / June 1999 Vol. 10 No. 3, Issue No. 51 ‘Instant Climax Conclusion’.
March / April 1999 Vol. 10 No. 2, Issue No. 50 ‘Instant Climax – Part 2’.
January / February 1999 Vol. 10 No. 2, Issue No. 49, ‘Instant Climax’.

Steam in the Garden Vol. 11 Issue No. 60, page 39 & Cover ‘Steam Loco Kit Review – D.J.B. Engineering’s Class A Climax by Sonny Wizelman

Here is a link to a photo of Keith and two of his Gold Bugs taken by Carol Jobusch at Diamondhead 2002. http://southernsteamtrains.com/images/cjdh-03.jpg
http://southernsteamtrains.com/images/cjdh-03.jpg

Keep 'em Steamin'
John


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Interesting, I'll have to get those old issues for my collection of Climax reference material. As for the scale of the Gold Bugs, maybe I'm wrong. The only Class A locos I've seen in person are my own. That said, the one common feature most share is the Graham TVR1A engine. Some are similar to mine in that the cab is a bit tight around the engine. In all the photos I've seen the Gold Bugs appear to have a lot of air space.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

This is the only video I've seen of one. The Gold Bug doesn't run but you get a good sense for the size.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Silver Solder Reccomendations?*

I used up the last of my silver solder building the fuel tank. The silver solder I had was purchased years ago from Sulphur Springs Steam Models and I don't know what it's silver composition was. I have however recently bought some Braze 560 (56% silver) so I could put an extra bushing on the boiler for adding a fuel tank heater line. I cannot, for the life of me get this stuff to flow. I usually use a Mapp gas torch, but for this I have also tried an oxy-mapp torch with no success. Does anyone have any recommendations for different solder or different heating process?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I buy Lucas or Harris 45% from a local welding house. I also use their paste flux (Handy Flux)
The boiler needs to be a dull red for the solder to flow 
One Mapp torch will only work on small boilers. I have used two or three to do just medium boilers and a large propane torch for large ones..
As long as the bushing isn't in the firebox, you can use soft solder (Staybrite is best) as the heat will never get over 300 degrees which is lower than the melting point of the solder. Silver solder is used for its strength on boiler seams but soft solder is fine for bushings as long as the fit isn't too loose.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for the advise. In my earlier attempts I got some globs to stick to the outside of the bushing. This time I pointed two Mapp torches at it and slowly got it to form a nice fillet.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Fuel Tank Heater Completed*

The fuel tank heater line is in and works perfectly. I've been saving this post until I could do a test run after the install. Tearing it apart to add the boiler bushing and fit the plumbing was a huge pain. The bump on the top of the fuel tank is the hot (luke warm) water line U-bend. The pipe enters via the bottom of the tank, exits through the top, turns over and goes out the bottom again where it pisses out onto the ground. The control valve for this is under the left side running board. Open the valve for only a few seconds and the fuel pressure is restored.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

*Finish Details*

I had it all decked out with clutter a while back but I wanted to wait until I was finished with the build to show it off. Now it just needs a box.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Looks great
How did you end up doing the lettering on the wood?


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

My favorite method is with rubber stamps and ink. I describe this in post #143 on page 15.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I cpouldn't find it
The number of pages depends on your monitor or settings I guess as I only have 5 pages.
What was the date of the post?
The word Climax wasn't done with stamps, was it?
Oh Wait... I see the post number now on the upper right corner.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I trust you've found that post. Yes, the Climax logo is a ink stamp too, of my design and printed by Shapeways. I found a high resolution image online, imported it into Solidworks, traced it out, mirrored it over and extruded it into a solid model. $8.39 and two weeks later I had the perfect stamp for the job.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)




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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

#2 is all fixed and running. Now I just need a track of my own.


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