# Decal technique on wood-sided reefer?



## acmartina (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi,

I have a Bachmann undecorated wood-side refrigerator car that I would like to make into a billboard car with some custom decals. I have the graphics and decal materials sorted, but I am worried about the wood siding, which has pronounced grooves between boards. There will be some fairly large decals for the "billboard" portion, obviously.

So my question is this - do I work the decals into each of the grooves? Or do I cut the decals at each groove and try to press the ends down into the groove? Or do I just bridge over the grooves? I am sure this has been done by others many times over. Thanks.









Steve H.
Cypress, TX


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Get some Micro-sol to soften the decals and help them snuggle down in the grooves - http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0 
I also use Micro-set for setting all my decals. 










-Brian


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

With Brian's help, I was successful in applying a large decal I made to a USA woodsided box car. I sprayed with an acrylic gloss first (?Brian), this gives a nice slick surface, but filled in only the deep grooves. I then applied the decal and it cured right into all the grooves. It looks like it was painted over the grainy wood. I followed this up with satin acrylic. 
I was trying to post a picture, but can't seem to make it work. 
Paul


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve, all the above and a couple of extra suggestions. I've found I get very good results when I spray the car with liberal coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Satin prior to applying the decals. Spray to get a smooth full coat. Allow to dry for an hour or so before applying the decals. 

Prepare the decals for application by using warm to almost hot water in a soup bowl with 10-15 drops of dishwashing liquid. Stir the dishwashing liquid in the water, then dip the decal pieces in the water for 2 or 3 seconds, set them on a paper towel and let them sit there for 2-3 minutes so they soften and release from the paper. Apply them to the car. I will set them in the correct position and then blot the excess water away from the decal with a white table napkin. I'll then fold the napkin into about 6 layers, place the moist napkin over the entire decal and physically press it into the grooves. When this is done, if you'd like to use some Micro-Sol or Solvaset, do so at this point using a soft brush. Then LEAVE IT ALONE to dry for at least 24 hours. 

After it's completely dry, spray 2-4 light coats of Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear satin followed by wetter coats. You'll actually see the clear portion of the decal material melt into the car body and you'll need to look very closely see that it's decal at all. After the satin cures for 10-15 minutes followed by 2-3 coats of Krylon Matte. Can # 1311.

It works right nicely...


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

Over the years I've used several different types of but I keep coming back to Solvaset....
It actually softens the decal film so it snuggles down to the surface and stretches over details, such as rivets, without hiding them. Also eliminates air bubbles, white spots, draping and silvering. Just brush it on and Solvaset does the rest! 
Just be sure the decal is where you want it before you apply Solvaset....











*(click here for where to get it)
*


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By bottino on 03/15/2009 6:06 PM
With Brian's help, I was successful in applying a large decal I made to a USA woodsided box car. I sprayed with an acrylic gloss first (?Brian), this gives a nice slick surface, but filled in only the deep grooves. I then applied the decal and it cured right into all the grooves. It looks like it was painted over the grainy wood. I followed this up with satin acrylic. 
I was trying to post a picture, but can't seem to make it work. 
Paul





Nope not me. Probably Kevin's advice. I usually don't use a gloss coat before hand, just the Micro-set. 

To post an image here just use the image tags *BUT* the image tags must be in small letters - [*img]---[*/img] for some reasons cap image tags don't work







.


I hope to catch you and Bob in York.

-Brian


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

Brian, I think you are right, I was talking to both you and Kevin when I did that car, and I think it was Kevin on the spray. I guess it worked.
My problem with posting the picture is that I can't preview it, to make sure I got it. 









Paul


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

woops, I didn't mean to show off, but I got it. 
Paul


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

OK Here is a close up, where you can see the details of the decal over the wood side of the car.FWIW
Paul


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## acmartina (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks everyone! Paul, Brian - those are very nice looking models.








I just ordered a bottle of Micor-sol and will give it a try. I have had some success with decals a few years ago (see below) following more or less what Stan describes but with the gloss coat ahead of time as described by Paul. But that was on a smoth surface. 









Thanks,
Steve


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Sometimes I will use one of those little ball ended stylus thingies that clay scuptors use to help finesse a balky decal into siding grooves. Make sure to keep the decal and car surface wet until you are happy with it. The really thin film decals are a royal PitA if you have to adjust them, especially the long narrow ones. Sometimes you can even manage to uncurl the thicker ones, the thin ones just disintegrate. (I won't say how many I've had to touch up with paint pens, or add damage/weathering where I hadn't planned to cover a boogered decal.)


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

1. Apply the vinyl transfer 
2. Burnish into the grooves 
3. Remove the transfer tape 
(Elapsed time < 2 minutes, life of transfer > 5 years)


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