# reversing loop for live steam



## ShayCrazy (Dec 27, 2007)

Happy new year all! 





I was following the thread on the LBG reversing loops and thought of a question. I was originally going to build a folded dog bone in an L shape in the corner of my yard but after reading about the reversing loops I figure I can get a longer run if I were to use reversing loops at each end and eliminating the section of double track in the middle. The question I have is weather or not it is possible for a reversing loop to be automatic with out resorting to electronics? I am running live steam so I really only have to worry about the position of the points. Is it possible for one to use a weak spring or some other device to allow the train to enter the switch then when it comes the other direction pass by it? I am looking more for a round and round sort of railroad, not a lot of shunting or switching. 





Cheers 





Adam


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

You could use spring-loaded switch points. A passing train would force the points to the correct alignment if the turnout was thrown against the train, but the points would snap back to their original position after the wheels passed through them.


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

Fro a spring loaded switch, you need a switch that, without any switch machine, throws easily. When we mad a spring switch, we used a piece of thin piano wire as the spring to move the points. Just make sure that everything moves easily even when individual freight cars pass through it.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You have two ways to use spring switches;
1. Keeps the same route but opens to allow trains to pass through 
2. Flips over for reverse entry next train through

Shown below is the flip over design

















\
The simple brass wire shown will be replaced with spring steel, but brass shows better.

Important things to know; Spring should be under compression when installed, pull open slightly and insert into holes in the ties/throwbar. 
Holes should be in line with center line (doesn't have to be in the center). I set the points in the middle when marking the throw bar.

Action is as the spring describes an arc, the throwbar travels in a straight line so at the middle of the throw, the spring is compressed, then snaps open and forces the rails over.

The other way uses a spring to return the points to one side every time, mount that spring between the ties.

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can use a safety pin as the spring as above...the loop in the center will give you your springy action. 

Tom Ruby has a picture of this somewhere. 

Regards, Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Greg, 
The amount of compression is so small that the saftey pin loop is over kill, but it is a good kind of wire to use. 'cept it stays shiny, spring steel is darker. 

John


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it possible for one to use a weak spring or some other device to allow the train to enter the switch then when it comes the other direction pass by it? 
Yes, as the guys above said! 

I had one on the tail of a Y that was too far away for comfort. I attached the tie bar to the lever with a spring.


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## Tom Bray (Jan 20, 2009)

I have Aristocraft # 6 switches and everything is manually thrown. While not running live steam, I regularly end up running the locomotives and cars through a switch that is thrown the wrong way and everything seems to just deal with it. There are usually a few sparks that fly but that seems to be about it. The switches have springs built into them and I have yet to have anything derail due to that sort of a problem. 

I do seem to get occasional problems right after I throw a switch and one truck goes one way while another goes the other.


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## coyote97 (Apr 5, 2009)

While using life steam, you have no problem with trackpower. so its possible to run through the loop once in one, once in the other direction.
So there is no urgent need of a switch thet falls back in a special position, its enough when that switch holds the line it was brought to by the last train.

When your switches dont hold the points by itself, u have to fix it.
To hold the points into position, u can use a switchdrive (LGB EPL-drives e.g. does so: u can push it open even coming from the "wrong side" and it snaps in in the new position) 
Or u can fumble by a sort of "snap-spring".
Oooor a weak magnet (that was talked about...i think in a gazette shortly). A magnet between two springs to pervent it from "sticking", just hold a position "more right" or "more left".

And driving is more interesting, when a loop is used in both directions. 

Frank


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## Chrisp (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello, 

I installed one recently using a Switchcrafters #4 switch and a small spring from the hardware store. The spring attaches the point's tiebar to a crossmember I attached to the long ties where a switchstand is normally mounted. Takes a bit of iteration to get the spring tension right, but it works nicely once dialed in.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

other than the mentioned possibilities above, i used manual LGB switches instead of EPL. 
and in some cases a simple rubberband and a thumbtac. (indoors) 

ps: a cheap source for springs are old videorecorders.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I have also use switches without springs and just run through them with out problems going either way. Later RJD


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe a snap spring to be sure the points go all the way when nudged by the flange?


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Spring switch is the way to go. 


We have a reverse loop at one end with a spring switch. Since we mostly run battery powered trains the whole thing is essentially automatic. Nice to see the train curve around and change its direction.


To see one in action take a look at our cab ride video:

Snowshoe & San Juan Cab Ride

The spring switch can be see at 1:41, and back again at 2:34


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By San Juan on 05 Jan 2010 10:33 AM 
Spring switch is the way to go. 


We have a reverse loop at one end with a spring switch. Since we mostly run battery powered trains the whole thing is essentially automatic. Nice to see the train curve around and change its direction.


To see one in action take a look at our cab ride video:

Snowshoe & San Juan Cab Ride

The spring switch can be see at 1:41, and back again at 2:34 



The only problem with a "Spring Switch" is that you should NEVER, EVER attempt to reverse direction if any part of the train is "in" the switch! Once the leading wheels have passed the switch, you must get the whole train through it before doing any reverse movement! If the switch has a method of staying in the sprung position once it has been entered then this is not a problem.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Just to clarify Charles' post, a "spring switch" as he describes it is one where the points are set one direction, and as the train passes through the opposite way, the wheels move the points but then the points return to the original setting once the wheel is out of the way. Each wheel on the train pushes against the points as they go through. 

The "V" spring switch as illustrated in earlier posts is often referred to as a "rubber" switch, in that the first wheel of the train pushes the points the correct position, then the points stay in that position. 

"Spring switches" are good for passing sidings or reverse loops where you want the train to always enter the same direction. They're also great on wyes, so you don't need to physically throw the switch to reverse the train. "Rubber" switches simply flop back and forth based on which way the last train was going. I use these on my railroad, as it's nice to see the train go through the reverse loops in different directions each time through. It just adds some visual variety on days when I'm in a "turn-em-on-and-watch" mood. 

Neither variety likes weak pilot trucks very much. If you routinely run 2-#-# or 4-#-# locomotives, make sure you've got ample downward pressure on the pilot truck so it can push the points over. 

Later, 

K


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