# Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0



## SalM (Jan 2, 2008)

Here in Tallahassee we added a new Live Steamer to our group. He got a brand new 0-6-0 from Royce and we fired it up for the first time this past Saturday. Visually it is a very pleasing engine. There is enough detail to please a newbe or really anyone. We went through the normal oil, water, gas, lube thing and check the engine for any loose parts prior to firing it up. All seemed well, so we lit the burner. A pleasent pop was heard as the burner ignited and stablized in a few seconds. No further adjustments were made and in about 8 minutes we had pressure up. It was chilly out Saturday morning so we added some water to the tender gas bath to further stabilize the burner. We opened the throttle , cleared the cylinders , and off it went. It ran steady and at a very controllable speed pulling 2 passenger cars. The first run lasted about 25 minutes and it never missed a beat. Later we repeated the run with the same results. Someone joked that it ran like a Roundhouse. Accucraft has a winner here and I am surprised that there are no other threads posted on this engine. Any other feedback would be welcome.


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## Slipped Eccentric (Jan 2, 2008)

The engines are very nice, especially for the price. Out of the box mine pulled 10 Aristo freight cars and 6 heavyweights at 20psi. I put R/C in mine and last saturday had mine under steam for 5 hours straight playing switcher in a yard without a hint of a problem.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have one and a fellow RRer has one also, they both ran beautifully right out of the box. Nick Jr


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SalM on 11/02/2008 8:21 PM
Someone joked that it ran like a Roundhouse. Accucraft has a winner here and I am surprised that there are no other threads posted on this engine. Any other feedback would be welcome. 


Perhaps we were waiting for your report Nick. Thanks for posting it. Anything new from Accucraft is of interest to a lot of us. Still to come, the K36, T12, Mason Bogie, EBT #12, SP NG #9, and standard gauge SP 2-10-2 to name a few. Keep up the good work Accucraft. 

Anyone have any pictures of the new 0-6-0?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Just for clarification for anyone who hasn't noticed: there are 2 Accucraft 0-6-0s. Under the American Mainline name that Accu uses for all 1/29th scale models, is this delightful model, which I assume is the one described in this thread: 










On the Accucraft website, you will find an SP S-12 0-6-0 model in 1/32nd scale. 










The AML loco is $1475, and the SP S-12 is/was $2200 and is marked as 'sold out'. 

_Further thought in subsequent edit:_ looking at the two pics side by side, I can't believe the 1/29th model isn't using the same boiler and running gear as the 1/32nd model? Is it really 11% larger?


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete
Larger, about the size of the Aster Mike.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Charles on 11/04/2008 9:29 AM
Larger, about the size of the Aster Mike.
 



Charles, thanks - I recall you posting good things about it.
On even further reflection...  if they used the same gear, then why would one be 'sold out' ?


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, 

I saw one that George had at Dan Stroka's steamup last month. A nice runner and definitely 1:29. It uses the semi-Stephenson's inboard valve gear like the 1:20.3 mogul, so the Walschaerts valve gear is strictly decorative. The Walschaerts gear on the 1:32 scale S-12 is functional and operates D valves. 

Hope this helps. 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## SalM (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan...if you are correct on the valve gear on the 1/29 I am totally snowed.................been there before.......Sal


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

As Alan as indicated the make up determined the cost thus the difference between the 1:32 0-6-0 and the 1:29 0-6-0. Seems to me to be like the AC Mike a great starter engine. Probably has Lewis thinking twice about the 0-4-0 he had in the works with projected higher price tag.


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Does anyone know if anything other than the unpainted engines are available currently? Also, there are a number of retailers that have the S-12 in stock, most notably Ridge Road Station.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, yes I was refering to the 1/29 0-6-0. Very happy with it. and jlinde if that is the one you're looking for I believe Royce @ Quisenberry Station still has some road names in stock. Nick Jr


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

If anyone has pics of their 1/29 0-6-0, I'd be very interested in seeing them. The only pics I've seen thus far are from the accucraft website (posted above) and of one for sale on ebay.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

I am a newbie to live steam, I currently do not have one at all, I have the opportunity to get one of these AML 0-6-0's brand new for just under $1K. I have been interested in getting a live steam for a while and I am wondering if these are a real good choice for a novice. I have watched vids and looked at pics of live steam ups for a while and I see that most of the pics and vids show owners tinkering with their engines, I do not expect live steams to be as simple as running an electric engine, but roughly how much time is spent fixing/tinkering compared to actual running time. My family and I tend to run the engines for about an hour at a time, then the kids 8 and 6 yrs old get to start diverting their attention. So I am wondering if I would be spending 30min tinkering just to get the engine running, I might loose them even before the engine runs. So I guess My questions are: 
1. how easy are these to run? 
2. how much set up time is needed to get the engine to run. 
3. how much time is needed after we are finished running for the day, post running greasing and such? 
4. the specs say this engine can run on 5' Dia curve, my min on our layout is 8' provided this engine does not go into one siding that uses 4' dia turnouts, how forgiving is the engine with less than perfect track? in my experience of looking at pics and vids of people running live steam, they are 99% of the time running them on raised roadbed, I gathered that it was to make it easier to tinker with the engine keeping the owner up off his/her knees. Which brings us back around to question 1 and 2, are live steamers so tempermental that they require a lot of tinkering to get to run? 

I know, lots of questions and from a newbie they can be so pestering. 

thanks in advance 
Kevin


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

If you can you should go to Diamondhead, Mississippi in January. There you can talk to many people who have extensive knowledge of small scale live steam. These people include dealers and importers. There will be many different engines for you to see and perhaps even operate. See http://www.diamondhead.org/ for information on the steamup.

I personally recommend a Roundhouse engine for a first engine. There are many reasons for this not the least of which is the common saying "Nothing runs like a Roundhouse." At any rate you should study the information on the Roundhouse web site.
http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/

Also you should spend some time studying the information available on the southern steam trains web site 
http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/index.htm even though an Aster may be a little expensive for a first engine.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

I live in Vermont, and honestly, doubt I will be able to make it down there. kids in school, work, if it was closer, I would be able to.

Th big attraction to this 0-6-0 was the price, it seems to be a nice engine, and this one in particular is affordable. the chance is here to get it, if I pass on it and get say a ruby, I doubt I will be able to come back and get one of these for this price.

Is it an engine that can be manageable for a novice?


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
In response to your inquiry:
1. how easy are these to run?
Water, oil, fuel then lit, throttle 

2. how much set up time is needed to get the engine to run.
From prep to steam about 10 minutes once you get the route down. 

3. how much time is needed after we are finished running for the day, post running greasing and such? 
A quick wipe down, turn over for light machine oil on moving parts and drain the water (Vermont do not leave water in boiler to freeze). 

4. the specs say this engine can run on 5' Dia curve, my min on our layout is 8' provided this engine does not go into one siding that uses 4' dia turnouts, how forgiving is the engine with less than perfect track? 
Depends on suspension or the lack thereof. Seems most engines do well on reasonable track straights, its the curves and switches that can make it a challenge at times.

BTW- Cabin Fever in York PA (same weekend as DH) could be within reason for a weekend trip (2 mainline tracks and 1 smaller) 

http://www.cabinfeverexpo.com/index.html

Check out the 2008 photos


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin - I'm in a similar position to your own and have been researching live steam for the last several months. My impression is that the AML 0-6-0 is a fine choice for a first engine; it's not particularly complicated, is fairly large, and appears to have fine running characteristics.

And having attended one steam up thus far, I believe a lot of the complications related to tinkering (e.g., chasing the engine around the yard) can be relieved via a radio control installation. RC doesn't address pre or post-run activities (steaming the engine up or cleaning it), but I think it's preferable to inserting one's hand into a miniature cab each time your locomotive begins to slow on a 1% grade. The purists here will no doubt disagree! You'll find that many adherents of live steam take pleasure in the various ancillary activities associated with running a steam locomotive. 

As a father of a 6 year old son and 3.5 year old daughter, though, I can empathize with your concern about stretching their attention spans. Still, I'm increasingly finding that my children will participate in my hobbies if they can actively help me in some manner - no shortage of tasks with live steam!

Cheers, Jon


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Kevin, 

Since you live in Vermont, you might want to get in touch with the Vermont Garden Railway Society which does have a small live steam contingent. If you are interested, contact me offline.

The decision as to whether to use radio control really comes down to personal preference and there is no "right" answer. I like the controlability which radio control affords along with not having to chase models down. My good friend, Larry Green, likes the hands-on feel of manual control and, because his layout has no grades, he manages to set his engines up for steady running without very much chasing. Your best bet may be to buy an engine and get to know it by running manually and then deciding whether you want to add radio control.

Llyn


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

One of the new 1/29 Accucraft 0 - 6 - 0's ran at my house today. Right out of the box it ran very well. Fast, slow or in between. Your basic fun engine....................... fuel, oil, water and run. Accucraft seems to have a real winner here for a starter engine. It is metal, (no plastic) has a tender, and is a nice size and a good runner. Accucraft is able to give you a good runner made out of metal with some nice detail because they were able to save money over their competition by not installing all that hokey "Sound equipment". Also, like mentioned above the valve gear assemblies on the sides are just for show. Their is a rod from the reverser that runs under engine to a chest between the cylinders that operate the steam events. A less expensive but good way to do it on a engine like this. Their is no springing (no big deal) and the drivers and main rods appear to me to be made out of the same type of cheaper metal (another no big deal) that the competition uses. When liteing for the first time, make sure that the adjustment ring that covers the air inlet holes at the back of the burner are not completely covered so that the fire will pop back to the burner. Nothing I have said is to be taken as a criticism. This seems to be a awesome engine for the price. Made out of metal, has Accucrafts attention to cosmetics and detail, real steam sounds (not recorded







), and ran well out of the box. Around the track today we all gave it







thumbs up.

By the way, did I say that I do not like fake sound systeams............................


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Charles-
thank you for the info. I am also getting info that this engine can be quite difficult to get running the first time. I am still trying to gather info.

I will look into the cabinfever expo. thanks


Kevin

Posted By Charles on 12/09/2008 3:59 PM
Kevin
In response to your inquiry:
1. how easy are these to run?
Water, oil, fuel then lit, throttle 

2. how much set up time is needed to get the engine to run.
From prep to steam about 10 minutes once you get the route down. 

3. how much time is needed after we are finished running for the day, post running greasing and such? 
A quick wipe down, turn over for light machine oil on moving parts and drain the water (Vermont do not leave water in boiler to freeze). 

4. the specs say this engine can run on 5' Dia curve, my min on our layout is 8' provided this engine does not go into one siding that uses 4' dia turnouts, how forgiving is the engine with less than perfect track? 
Depends on suspension or the lack thereof. Seems most engines do well on reasonable track straights, its the curves and switches that can make it a challenge at times.

BTW- Cabin Fever in York PA (same weekend as DH) could be within reason for a weekend trip (2 mainline tracks and 1 smaller) 

http://www.cabinfeverexpo.com/index.html

Check out the 2008 photos


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Jon-
Thanks for the info.

Kevin

Posted By jlinde on 12/09/2008 4:09 PM
Kevin - I'm in a similar position to your own and have been researching live steam for the last several months. My impression is that the AML 0-6-0 is a fine choice for a first engine; it's not particularly complicated, is fairly large, and appears to have fine running characteristics.

And having attended one steam up thus far, I believe a lot of the complications related to tinkering (e.g., chasing the engine around the yard) can be relieved via a radio control installation. RC doesn't address pre or post-run activities (steaming the engine up or cleaning it), but I think it's preferable to inserting one's hand into a miniature cab each time your locomotive begins to slow on a 1% grade. The purists here will no doubt disagree! You'll find that many adherents of live steam take pleasure in the various ancillary activities associated with running a steam locomotive. 

As a father of a 6 year old son and 3.5 year old daughter, though, I can empathize with your concern about stretching their attention spans. Still, I'm increasingly finding that my children will participate in my hobbies if they can actively help me in some manner - no shortage of tasks with live steam!

Cheers, Jon


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Steve-
how long did it take to get the engine actually running? did it take more than 1 guy? I am pretty much on my own here in springfield. 


thanks
Kevin


Posted By Steve S. on 12/09/2008 6:30 PM
One of the new 1/29 Accucraft 0 - 6 - 0's ran at my house today. Right out of the box it ran very well. Fast, slow or in between. Your basic fun engine....................... fuel, oil, water and run. Accucraft seems to have a real winner here for a starter engine. It is metal, (no plastic) has a tender, and is a nice size and a good runner. Accucraft is able to give you a good runner made out of metal with some nice detail because they were able to save money over their competition by not installing all that hokey "Sound equipment". Also, like mentioned above the valve gear assemblies on the sides are just for show. Their is a rod from the reverser that runs under engine to a chest between the cylinders that operate the steam events. A less expensive but good way to do it on a engine like this. Their is no springing (no big deal) and the drivers and main rods appear to me to be made out of the same type of cheaper metal (another no big deal) that the competition uses. When liteing for the first time, make sure that the adjustment ring that covers the air inlet holes at the back of the burner are not completely covered so that the fire will pop back to the burner. Nothing I have said is to be taken as a criticism. This seems to be a awesome engine for the price. Made out of metal, has Accucrafts attention to cosmetics and detail, real steam sounds (not recorded







), and ran well out of the box. Around the track today we all gave it







thumbs up.

By the way, did I say that I do not like fake sound systeams............................


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

how long did it take to get the engine actually running? did it take more than 1 guy? I am pretty much on my own here in springfield. 


At first we had trouble getting the fire to pop back to the burner. This was because the adjustment collar was completely over the air holes at the back of the burner. We reset it to cover the air holes about half way and the fire popped right back. This was not loco error but operator error







. The engine has a good size boiler and the tender tank holds enough butane for a nice run. I also like that the butane tank in tender can have water poured around it to stabilize the gas during cold weather. Only use warm water, never to hot. She came right up to pressure. After clearing the initial condensate from the cylinders (all locos have to do this) she was off and running very smooth both in forward and reverse. We tried her fast and slow..................no problems. One guy can run this engine with no problems. Again.............









Did I say how much I hate those dad blame sound systems............................


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

SURE a shame that Art was not there to fiilm the 0-6-0. He got in late on Monday nite and woke up to a flat tir on his pick=up. If you steam next week he';; be there with bell's on and new leterring on the
heavyweights to conform to the "EMPIRE BUILDER"
sORRY i MISSED THE STEAMUP AT STEVE'S. I need a fix real bad.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

SURE a shame that Art was not there to fiilm the 0-6-0

Where is Cecil Be De' Gibson when we need him


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Ok, So sounds like it might be agrivating at first, being a newbie and possibly making many mistakes on the first few attempts of steam up with this loco. but after some experience, I think I would get the hang of it. so no real discouragement so far.

so now to real "important" questions that were brought up when I was talking this over with my wife.
First to set the stage...

I talked to my wife about expanding the g layout to run into the basement of the house and not to re-build a HO layout. she was pleased, she has liked the G scale stuff better than HO right from the start. Then we were looking at some pics of gscale locos, she already has a 4-6-2 pacific that she likes, and she really likes steam engines. When I told her about some of the live steam engines I have looked into she got interested. then we started talking about the AML 0-6-0 and she wanted to know what it would sound like. I couldnt answer her. Now, I realize that these cant have the same sound as full size steam engines do and so does she, but she is hoping that there is a definite chuff sound. I have seen a vid of an accucraft where a guy was able to make the chuff sound much more definite. can that be done with this 0-6-0? also this whole conversation made me question the drive mechanism with this engine. 
Comparing this USRA 0-6-0 to the S-12 0-6-0, you guys mention that the drive rods are just for looks on the USRA model. is that a better thing or worse thing compared to the s-12? it sorta takes away from the validity of the model being a real live steam loco as it does not operate as close to proto as the s-12 does. I understand that the difference in mechanism allows the USRA to be less expensive and complex. This could have two benifits, it might be more reliable and esier for a novice to work with. its drawbacks are as mentioned, its not as real to proto as the s-12, are there others? 


In my case, the s-12 is twice the price of the USRA, is it double the quality of the USRA model? I could pass on the USRA, save up my $ and get the S-12 next year, provided the S-12 would also be a good candidate for a novice user. I would consider long term reliability and pleasure of the engine over saving the $, if the S-12 is much more of a better engine, then it would be worth it in the long run to save up the $ and spend the extra and save over the years.

I know, question question the USRA and then throw in a wrench item with the S-12. in my case, the engine would be mine, but I need to please more than just mysefl with this purchase.


Kevin


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

she is hoping that there is a definite chuff sound

Kevin, 
The sound from a real live steamer is just like a real one only smaller. In other words, they "chuff" quietly, especially compared with an electric loco. If you make them work hard the "chuff" of exhaust steam gets more pronounced, just like the full-size engine. Make it pull a long, heavy train, or build an inertia car with a flywheel, and you'll hear a seriously loud 'CHUFF". 

the drive rods are just for looks on the USRA model 

Tricky that - the outside valve gear is 'just for looks' as the engine uses a simplified valve gear between the frames. It's still a real steam model - it just has two sets of gear - one working and one for show. 

is it double the quality of the USRA model?

provided the S-12 would also be a good candidate for a novice user

The S-12 is clearly a more 'scale' model with finer details and prototypical valve gear. Then there's the 1/29th versus 1/32nd debate. Whether you consider it 'twice' the quality is subjective. 

Accucraft's live steam engines are sometimes criticised for their fine details, whcih can easily get damaged or lost when the loco is handled by a big lump of an operator. And they get handled, unlike an electric, as there are a few things that need doing before/after each run - e.g. refilling steam oil. 

My opinion is that the AMS 1/29th loco would suit a beginner better than the S-12, but it usually boils (!) down to personal opinion.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

The 1:29 scale isnt an issue. We currently run a 1:29 aristo pacific, nicholas will be getting his LGB Genesis phase V for christmas, thats from what I have heard a 1:26 scale. Those are the two engines that will run the loop besides the possible live steamer. My daughter has a 1:32 marklin, but it rarely gets run as her interest just isnt as strong. I currently have an Aristo 0-4-0 shifter, thats 1:29, but if the steamer comes in, the 0-4-0 will be up for sale, as I want to keep myself as a 1 engine person. 

After your comment, the USRA still sounds like the better choice for me. 

Kevin


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

Be careful Kevin. Most of us become instant collectors at the time we get our first small scale live steam locomotive.

The choice of all the available options and locomotives is always up to the individual. 

I say don't be in to big of a hurry. Some kind of a good deal is always available. Perhaps you know what I would do but I will spell it out anyway. With the pound where it is today, and the desire to have an American prototye, I would get a manual control, Roundhouse, Sandy River 24. 

If you can get to the Cabin Fever Event in January and talk to the folks there and take a look at the various engines there you will be in a much better position to decide what YOU want. 

The running gear/valve control does not make a lot of difference in the looks or operation of the two 0 6 0 locomotives you are looking at. Many people do like the looks of the Vanderbuilt tender a lot better than the square tender. The scale difference matters to some and not to others.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
Along with the consideration of 1:29 vs. 1:32 I am thinking how it would be easy to convert the 1:29 0-6-0 to a Prairie that would approximate as 1:32 (kinda two engine for one).
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Prairie_locomotive.jpg/800px-Prairie_locomotive.jpg


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Dave-
I have super human will power sometimes, or thin wallet somepeople call it.










I am going to have to pass on the Roundhouse, Not a big fan of outside frame drivers. plus its way too much $

I think there are some live steamers in the NHGRS, I hope to get ahold of some of them too.

I like the square tender shape, the USRA is closer to the 0-18a 0-6-0 which is my favorite 0-6-0 ever. 


Regarding the cabin fever, I was on their site, looks like lots of steam items, but little live steam train. are the pics not showing the whole story?

Kevin


Posted By Dave -- Use Coal on 12/10/2008 10:25 AM
Be careful Kevin. Most of us become instant collectors at the time we get our first small scale live steam locomotive.

The choice of all the available options and locomotives is always up to the individual. 

I say don't be in to big of a hurry. Some kind of a good deal is always available. Perhaps you know what I would do but I will spell it out anyway. With the pound where it is today, and the desire to have an American prototye, I would get a manual control, Roundhouse, Sandy River 24. 

If you can get to the Cabin Fever Event in January and talk to the folks there and take a look at the various engines there you will be in a much better position to decide what YOU want. 

The running gear/valve control does not make a lot of difference in the looks or operation of the two 0 6 0 locomotives you are looking at. Many people do like the looks of the Vanderbuilt tender a lot better than the square tender. The scale difference matters to some and not to others.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
A search would give you all you need to know such as this past posting:
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/6729/Default.aspx#6729

The event also as live steam boats (sometimes we bring ours...) but more than that many opportunities to learn about the machines, materials along with references (people, books, workshops, tools) that allow our live steam hobby possible.

Here is our photo album:http://picasaweb.google.com/cebednarik/CabinFever#

http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By kondre on 12/10/2008 1:10 PM

I think there are some live steamers in the NHGRS, I hope to get ahold of some of them too.


There sure are. Our monthly meetings take place on the second Friday of each month at the Red Cross facility in Manchester, and our next upcoming show (where we will be running live steam anyway) is March 7 & 8, 2009 in Milford, NH. I don't know of anyone in the club who has the USRA 0-6-0 though. That's not to say for sure that they don't, just that I haven't seen one yet if they do.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

I talked to my wife about expanding the g layout to run into the basement of the house 

Not a good idea to run live steam inside. Could be very risky. One of the things that is nice about this new Engine is the fact that it is 1/29. Because of this it is a larger engine then the other switcher. Granted, while it does not have the detail level of the more expensive engine, it still has a lot more detail then other entry level engines selling at the same price or above. Even though the valve gear is not prototypical, it still has real steam valve events going on. As far as sound..................what you hear is real, not a recording. Like most Accucrafts, it has a good chuff. The fella that makes the chuff boxes could probably make you one for it, then you could hear it across the yard. This was a very easy engine to run.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
IMHO- run in the basement. We test fired there, have several friends that have full tracks in basement. For safety purposes would be a good idea to have ventilation (open window, fan, doorway), stay away from the heating system and make sure that the laundry does not get steam exhaust on it!


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello Charles. I am amazed that people run live steam inside. It just seems to risky to me. I doubt that a insurrance company would understand if a house burned down.


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## chooch (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve, sure people run in the basement. At my last home I had a large enough basement so I could run a nice variety of engines. I would run ONLY when the wife was not home because if the Co2 detector went off, so did she. Winter was the worst because the open windows would make it a little cool down there, but still better than being out doors!


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

Safety, as always, needs to be the main consideration when running indoors. As long as one recognizes the safety issues why not run indoors. We do it at all the major steamups --- with the ocassional alarm going off.

There was a time when all kinds of fires were inside the house some examples:

Coal stoves
Wood Stoves
Candles
Kerosene lanterns
Gas Stoves 

Of this list two scare me nuch more than live steam engines, they are Candles and Kerosene Lanterns. Both of these are very much in use today.

One probably should have wet towels and fire extinguishs available and should not leave the engines unattended.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

ISN'T AMAZING?

I am frequently amazed at the way the subject of these threads can change. This one statred with Kevin asking for opinions of an engine and now we are debating whether one should run a live steam locomotive indoors.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

well, really it started with the AML 0-6-0 being listed as a nice running engine. I then hopped on, because after finding one for sale, I was looking for more info. regarding it. then in one of my posts, I mention that our garden layout will be expanded to have a wing that goes into our basement. thats where the running indoors came in to play.

I kinda stole the original theme of the thread, didnt really mean too. 



I just got word on the price of my new in box USRA 0-6-0.....$875 plus $60 shipping with a free bottle of steam oil so i can have some to start with. the Road name is CN, but eh, thats ok, I can take the road name off I hope. can anyone really find a reason why i should turn that down? 

Kevin


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
Go for it...and welcome to the burnt fingers club!


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

There was a time when all kinds of fires were inside the house some examples:

Coal stoves
Wood Stoves
Candles
Kerosene lanterns
Gas Stoves 


Yes, that was a great time..................a time before most lawyers became so corrupt. 
I just got word on the price of my new in box USRA 0-6-0.....$875 plus $60 shipping with a free bottle of steam oil so i can have some to start with. the Road name is CN, but eh, thats ok, I can take the road name off I hope. can anyone really find a reason why i should turn that down? 


I say go for it. If they had one that said Southern Pacific on it,.........it might just be the first Accucraft engine that I would ever buy.

I know Jeff..........................Say it aint so....................................


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Oh, I just remembered, here is a good question.....

Am I going to need a water pump for this engine? I have seen a vid on you tube where the guy did a few pumps with his water pump that was in his shay to get the water in the sight glass up to where he wanted it....does this USRA have a pump already or will I need one?

This then leads too......
What items, tools should I get to make my life better with live steam? Things that dont come with the engine from the factory.


Thanks

Kevin


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By kondre on 12/11/2008 6:46 PM
Oh, I just remembered, here is a good question.....

Am I going to need a water pump for this engine? I have seen a vid on you tube where the guy did a few pumps with his water pump that was in his shay to get the water in the sight glass up to where he wanted it....does this USRA have a pump already or will I need one?

This then leads too......
What items, tools should I get to make my life better with live steam? Things that dont come with the engine from the factory.


Thanks

Kevin



You fill the engine from a threaded plug at the back top of the boiler that is in the cab. It held enough water for a nice run. We did not time it, but it ran for a good while. There is no water pump in the tender. You might want to get a good all valve so you can add water to engine while under pressure. Norm Saley can make you one and a good pump bottle for it too. Other then that just distilled water, steam oil, butane, and another light oil to lubricate all the running gear, rods etc.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

So you fill the water from a spot in the cab? Does the tender hold water too? sounds like it doesnt. 
the wife is asking me if I can have a whistle added to it latter on. I told her I dont know but I will ask. 

Kevin


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin
Here is a photo of a goodall valve setup (John S) on a ruby which would be the same for your engine. Along with Norm, you can get a setup from Royce (our live steam sponsor)











Whistle- most all engines can have a whistle added along as there is an access to steam (extra backhead plug or able to tap a secondary steam line such as water bath heater).

Water bath/handpump would also require a check valve on the backhead so that you would not leak steam/hot water back from the boiler.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By kondre on 12/12/2008 3:48 AM
So you fill the water from a spot in the cab? Does the tender hold water too? 

The back of the boiler extends into the front of the cab and there is a threaded water filler plug on top of it. While there is no pump in the tender you can still add water to it. This can be a good idea because the butane tank is in the tender and warm (not hot) water can be added around it in cold weather to help stabilize the butane gas in the tank. I do think that I remember seeing a extra screw out plug at the backhead of the boiler that could be used for things such as a whistle.

Just please don't add one of them funky sparky "electro magnetic sound systems"







to ruin an otherwise great engine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

light oil to lubricate all the running gear

Kevin, 
Try to find some 'turbine' oil, designed for the bearings of electric motors (e.g. a/c blowers, pumps, etc.) It's usually in a blue can (not red) and is stocked at your local hardware store.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

An oil that works great for the running gear is 3 in 1 Brand in the blue can. It can be kind of hard to find. Most ACE Hardware stores seem to have it here in the Galveston area.


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Steve S. on 12/12/2008 7:47 AM
Posted By kondre on 12/12/2008 3:48 AM
So you fill the water from a spot in the cab? Does the tender hold water too? 

The back of the boiler extends into the front of the cab and there is a threaded water filler plug on top of it. While there is no pump in the tender you can still add water to it. This can be a good idea because the butane tank is in the tender and warm (not hot) water can be added around it in cold weather to help stabilize the butane gas in the tank. I do think that I remember seeing a extra screw out plug at the backhead of the boiler that could be used for things such as a whistle.

Just please don't add one of them funky sparky "electro magnetic sound systems"







to ruin an otherwise great engine. 




Ok, I never planed on putting a sound system in it, I hope the chuff can do that for me. as far as a whistle, this ....http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380081804091
is too big right? I think its the wrong scale.


On the AML website they mention "Optional water hand pump" in their spec list. this is the water pump I was referring to I think, it goes in the tender and you use it to get water into the sight glass right?
thanks

oh, and here is where the novice starts to shine through. please bear (grr) with me.


Kevin


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 12/12/2008 8:15 AM
light oil to lubricate all the running gear

Kevin, 
Try to find some 'turbine' oil, designed for the bearings of electric motors (e.g. a/c blowers, pumps, etc.) It's usually in a blue can (not red) and is stocked at your local hardware store.

I will look for turbine oil, thanks for the tip


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Along with 3-in-1 (blue can is SAE 20w), please utilize steam oil for the piston rods and valve rods/valves when oiling about. These items see steam directly and experience heat that will dissipate regular lubricants. This prolongs the life of the valve rods and gland/seals on the back of the piston.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

Kevin,

You are seeing the different ways people do things in this hobby. Usually none are "wrong" they are just different. 

You can get a lot of opinions on the type of steam oil to use. My opinion here is to use the steam oil sold by sothern steam trains or Roundhouse steam oil. Over time some of the steam oil, not specifically for small scale live steam, may cake up and block the steam line. Be sure not to get anything but steam oil in the steam line. 

For running gear lubrication, some people use steam oil on all the running gear, some people use the blue can 3 in 1 Oil on every thing, some people use automotive 20 weight oil on every thing. There are a lot of different brands and types of oil that you may see in use. Steve likes to use Break Free gun oil. What ever is used should be at least 20 weight. The goal here is to be sure all of the running gear and valve gear has lubrication.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin, Llyn forwarded your email to me re: VGRS. First, get the 0-6-0 at that price--it is the best I'm aware of so far for this engine. At the Syracuse show last month, I observed two of them run perfectly out of the box. You already are getting plenty of advice for a live steam newbie, so I won't add anything here. Should any mechanical issues develop, Llyn and I are not that far away for some tinkering. And, Cliff at Accucraft will stand by you. 
While my steam track is closed for the winter and under 6 inches of snow right now, next spring I will get in touch with you to set up a date when you can come up to to run, along with a couple of other northern Vt & NY steamers. Also, I have been having invitational meets in July, and you will be included. 
Regarding indoor running, a friend of mine in Montreal, who lives in an apartment, sets up LGB track on the floor to steam when the urge strikes. When Llyn and I took delivery of new locos during previous winters, my basement track beckened. I unplugged the smoke/fire alarm over the track, and we took care not to let much gas escape during filling. Everything was going fine with Llyn's new K until the CO alarm over by the furnace, which I had forgotten about, sounded off. Point is: a little prudent operation indoors is probably OK, but I wouldn't plan any lengthy operation. The burners in these little engines do produce unpleasant byproducts. 
Just go for it and enjoy. 

Larry


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

thanks everyone so far. I just placed my order, I stuck with the CN road name, I thought about the undecorated, but from what I could find, the headlamp on the undecorated is up on top of the boiler, while the CN has the headlamp in the front and center of the firebox door. This is where its located on the 0-18a's. I hope to one day make the small modifications to this model to have it resemble an 0-18a, so to have the lamp in the right place to start with is a good start. removing the road name on the tender will be a task for latter on. 

I will read up on all the paper work that comes with the engine. I will also look for a hand pump that AML says is optional. 

Larry Green, I will take you up on that offer. 

When the engine arrives, I will take plenty of pics of it for everyone, since in the begininng of this thread, pics were requested. 

Kevin


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Weren't the 0-18a's Canadian National engines anyway? Or are you planning to letter yours up as Conway Scenic's 7470, or as a Central Vermont engine?


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Charles on 12/12/2008 5:09 AM

















QUICK someone move the bottle! it's choking Norm!!!!


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## kondre (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By rwjenkins on 12/12/2008 9:51 AM
Weren't the 0-18a's Canadian National engines anyway? Or are you planning to letter yours up as Conway Scenic's 7470, or as a Central Vermont engine?

They were, I am considering it to be Conway or Central VT, leaning towards CV

Kevin


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By kondre on 12/12/2008 9:33

I will read up on all the paper work that comes with the engine. 

As much as I like the engine, the instructions that come with it are not much. Any questions when she arrives...................just ask. I am happy that you ordered it. It's a neat engine.


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## TY (Apr 8, 2009)

Here is mine in action! I love it...


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