# G-ScaleTrack Questions



## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

I am going to be starting my first G-scale layout in the Spring of 2009. I am doing extensive searches to find information on track but noone has broken everything down exactly. So I will ask a few humble questions and hopefully you guys can help. 

First of all, please explain code to me. From what I gather, it is the distance from the bottom of the ties to the top of the rail head? If that is the case, why is it important? Is it just a question of the "correct scale" or is it the durability of the track? Does it have anything to do with the conductivity of the electrical current? Is it the density of the rails?


Second of all, I am having a big problem with curves. I realize that alot of people recommend using flex track to complete curves for many reasons, but if I were to just use curved track, USA Trains seems to be the only company that gives radiuses in feet. Now I realize that LGB was European and , ergo, used a different system of measurement, but how can I equate different systems to what I am running? For example, I am planning to get a USA Trains BigBoy eventually. After talking to USA Trains about it's running requirements they recomended I use 16'+ radius curves. If I were to use USA Trains track, that would be easy because they manufacture from 4' radius to 20' radius. But what if I decided to use a different brand of track? I am not making much sense of R1-R5 curves and I cannot find information on what the radius of those would be in feet. I assume R1 is 4' diameter but I would hate to spend alot of money buying R5 curved track to find that it is only 14' radius and would not accomodate my BigBoy. 


Third problem is turnouts. Turnouts are a problem for the same reason curves are. I need to use turnouts that can accomodate my BigBoy and many manufacturers do not give their measurements. They seem to describe them as #1-#5 generally but leave no indication of what the actual radius is. Does anyone know the standard radiuses in feet for Turnouts #1-#8? I realize that before BigBoy track radius was not so much of an issue but since BigBoy will be the largest locomotive built in G-scale I'd like to build my layout to support it and therefore, everything else.


Fourth question is track options. I can alleviate many options right up front by stating that I will be using electrical current, not battery operation. That leaves out aluminum and plastic. Brass and Stainless Steel seem to be the best 2 options for what I am running and there lies the problem. Having read many threads on Brass versus Stainless Steel, it seems that Stainless Steel would be the best option for me due to the apparent lack of a need for maintenance and long-term durability. The problem is, I am having a difficult time finding it, and when I do, I am unsure of what their radiuses for curves and turnouts are in feet, which is a problem listed above. 


Finally, can someone list me some track manufacturers as I am having a difficult time finding them (especially Stainless Steel), as well as your experiences with those listed brands if you have had any?

Thanks a bunch guys in advance, any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

-Will


p.s. - You guys have got some great layouts posted on MLS and you inspire me. Keep up the great work ^^


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll take a crack at it, but I'm much less experienced than many people here and I'm sure they will correct me if I'm wrong. I use track power and code 332 track. 



Code refers to the height of the rail. Code 332 is what you find in starter sets and it's still the most common, I think. It's much too big to be prototypical. But it's very durable. There's no reason the other codes can't be durable as well if supported and anchored, although deer stepping around a layout could be a problem. Code 250 tends t be more exensive because there is a saller market, and it appeals to more serious modelers who want a greater degree of accuracy. I have mostly code 332 brass, from LGB, Aristocraft, AML and USA Trains. I have some stainless steel from Aristo. Cleaning the brass has not been a very big deal for me--I just run a track cleaning car around. 


Aristocraft sells curves with the diameters given in feet. You can find it on most retailer's websites.. Speaking from my expereince, though, I would say it is abslutely worth it to get a track bender, especially if you are using code 332. You can bend any track--it does not have to be "flex" track specifically. 


Aristo makes three turnouts--one that matches what LGB used to call R1, which forms a four foot crcle, and the "wide radius" switch which will lead nicely into a 10 foot circle, and the #6 switch which is wider yet. They make them in brass and stanless code 332. If I were you, running a Big Boy, I wouldot consider anything other than the Aristo #6


A simpe way to deal with this is to get a tracksoftware program. I use an inexpensive program called "rail modeler." It has library of the major manufacurer's standard curves, and you can just drop them in place.


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks lownote, I do have a few track software demos, but most of them are for windows and I have a 2000 Mac at the moment lol. Until I get a new Mac that runs Windows and Mac OS I am stuck with what's out there I'm afraid. Unfortunately, most of the demos I have downloaded only have LGB listed as an option for the G-scale track manufacturer. Thanks for the rail bender info. It seems that would be my best bet needing such high radius curves.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Will, Welcome to MLS! 

First, "code" is the size of the rail. Most folks use 332, but plenty also use 250 and 215. The bigger the number the larger the rail size and thus stronger. For example, code 332 will be .332" from bottom to top of the rail. Code 250 or 215 can look more prototypical. I have mostly code 332 but some code 250 switches (yes you can get connectors so you can do this). I think I prefer the code 250. Conductivity seems to be the same for the various rail codes, as all are bigger than whatever wire you are going to use to power the track  

Second, I think most manufacturers (USA Trains, AMS, and Aristo-Craft) all use Radius or Diameter. I believe LGB is the only one to use the R numbers. I don't use the R numbers as I can never remember what that translates too, so I don't buy LGB. Plenty of others and less expensive too. 

Third, numbered turnouts are not a radius, although you can buy radius turnouts; i.e. a turnout on a curved radius. A turnout's number expresses how much it will cause a train to diverge when it is thrown. The number is calculated by taking the number of units of forward travel for one unit of divergence. For example, if after traveling six inches from the point of divergence the train has diverged one inch, then you have crossed a #6 turnout. A rule of thumb is, the smaller the number the tighter the radius of the turnout's curve. 

Fourth, whose stainless steel track are you looking at that is confusing you? 

Finally, I would check out Aristo-Craft (Brass and Stainless Steel), AMS (Brass), USA Trains (Brass), Sunset Valley (brass, stainless steel, nickle silver), Llagas Creek (brass)


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## 6323 (Jan 17, 2008)

Do you have a link etc.......to this Rail Modeler?? 
Sounds like what I could use, to design my railroad! 
Thanks.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Big Boys are big and need a good solid base to run on. #6 switches and 16.5 or 20 foot diameter track is a must. Ridge Road seems to have all sizes in stock - http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/istar.asp?a=3&dept=TRAINS&class=G&subclass=TRK+SS&manufacturer=255&sortby=INSTOCK&numperpage=42&pos=0 and a special on long straights - http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/istar.asp?a=3&manufacturer=255&dept=trains&class=G&subclass=&icon1=13 
I'm a happy user of Aristo stainless. 

on track size LGB R1- 4' diameter, R2 - 5', R3 - 8', R5 - 13.5' or there abouts 

on switches - numbered switches are not curved so they do not have a radius. The larger the number the more gradual the turnout. 

-Brian


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

RailModeler might not be useful for you--it's for the Mac. 

http://www.railmodeller.com/


There are similar programs for windows though


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing to remember is Aristo switches need adjustments to make them work correctly. The guard rail and frog areas are incorrect and can cause problems. Turnouts do have a radius on the turnout side. For detailed info on Aristo turnouts and fixes visit Greg's web site at www.Elmassian.com Also his site can give you a ton of info. Later RJD


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

I have chosen to use Llagas Creek code 250 track, with narrow gauge ties. Mostly because I want a bit more of a scale look. I plan on using all Llagas components.


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks for all the info guys, it has been a big help ^^ 
-Will


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## Chrisp (Jan 3, 2008)

For track power, also consider Micro Engineering G-Track in nickel silver (code 250). Between brass and SS in cost, with very good conductivity outside so far (just passed one year of use). They have a variety of sectional pieces, I used 4' radius sections and 3 foot straights, and they sell and ship direct. Good luck on your planning, that's half the fun!


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Railmodeller isn't bad but is missing some key track manufacturers. USA Trains, Llagas Creek, Sunset Valley weren't on the list unfortunately.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Will, your post had these 3 key phrases: 

"track power" 
"big boy" 
"first layout" 

Right now, I would recommend nothing but Aristo 332 stainless with split jaw stainless clamps. 

1. forget anything under code 332 for your first layout, not tough enough. 
2. no one should start a new layout with track power and brass IF you can afford a big boy... 
3. First layout... smaller code sizes or brass will just frustrate a newcomer to track power... 

Also, if you will build something large (broad) enough for a big boy, you will have 20' diameter curves (at least!)... in that gradual of a curve, go flex track. 

Regards, Greg


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2008)

i agree partly with Greg. 
don't beginn with one of the smaller codes. what nobody mentioned, there are a lot of locos and rolling stock, that have large flanges on the weels. on smaller codes they sound like mashine-guns, because they hit the sleepers. 
but i disagree about trackpower and brass. i have LGB-brassrails, am using trackpower and am still content after nearly fourty years. 

korm


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Korm, did you solder jumpers, or what did you do to connect rail segments. 

One of the reasons I do not recommend brass to newcomers is that the "cleaning experience" seems to vary wildly. There are many "brass" guys that have very little maintenance, and then there are some who have huge issues. Since the difference in price is not that great now (because of the copper price), I recommend SS. 

So, brass can do the job very well, I will agree, and if I went brass I would be able to save money if I soldered jumpers, as opposed to the (in my mind) mandatory rail clamps on SS. 

Regards, Greg


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## GaryY (Jan 2, 2008)

If you want an idea of the track types available Aristo-Craft has a nice template you can download and print off that gives their track sizes; diameters and switches etc. This may be helpful.

http://www.aristocraft.com/catalog/track/track_templete.pdf

USA Trains used to have a template on their website for all their track types as well but it's disappeared. However if you give them a call they should be able to fax you a copy.

Good luck and welcome to the hobby. it's great fun!

Gary


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

How does Aristocraft Stainless Steel hold up versus Llagas Creek?


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Engineercub on 10/24/2008 12:36 AM
How does Aristocraft Stainless Steel hold up versus Llagas Creek?


Nobody has been alive long enought to figure out the difference.....

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

To help on track length, 300mm is just under 12 inches. 
1200,, is 47 and 1/4 inches. 

Therefore you can allow 3/4 of an inch for every 1200mm being just under 4 feet. 

Code numbers for track type is the height. Why metric lengths are .332 or .250, etc. inches is beyond my thinking. 

I am 100 percent code 332 brass and have to do some cleaning. 

I find bugs running on top of my rails in the hot weather, and engines squish these critters making an insulator when the bug juice drys, thus cleaning is needed. 

I do not know if these bugs ignore stainless and just like brass. 

Aristocraft makes a lot of track and switches in both stainless and brass code 332. USA brass and Aristo brass rails are identical, ties are different. LGB is similair rail, but joiners are compatible but different as are PIKO track, a newcomer to large scale. 

Lionel and Bachmann track is code 332, but hollow steel and rusts quickly, plus ties are not UV protected..


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

So it depends.... 

Do you go out to your railroad with a caliper to see if everything is the proper size, or do you invite such people out


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Also don't get the idea that brass track is no good. If I were starting out from scratch and had a lot of money, I'd go for stainless steel. But at least where I live, cleaning brass track is not that big a deal. If you can afford it, go stainless--it's a bit less maintenance. I did have to invest in track clamps--Aristocraft makes some inexpensive and quite effective track clamps that are easy to install. I have clamps on about 75% of the track joints on my layout

Good luck!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

If your using the AC clamps do not over tighten they break easily. Later RJD


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Engineercub,

I have used both brass and stainless steel track for my track powered outdoor layouts. 

I agree 100% with Greg on this one. 

1. You will want to use nothing but 20' diameter curves, stainless steel aristocraft track. The Big Boy is a huge locomotive and with the centipede tender, I can't see anything less than 20' for reliable running. I have found that the brass requires frequent cleaning on the oxidation. 

2. The Aristo #6 switch is not a radiused switch, but has a diverging straight section. These are excellent switches, and I think they are much much better than the aristo Wide Radius switch (which is a 10' diameter curve, if I am not mistaken). That said, all I use are the Wide Radius switches, and haven't had a problem with them, so long as they are level. 

3. You will want at least a 10 amp power supply to run your Big Boy. I have the Aristo Ultima which puts out 18v DC at 10 Amps, and I am thinking I need a better DC power supply that puts out 24 volts at 10 amps (there is a thread in "Traditional Track power" about Bridgewerks power supplies that goes in to a lot of detail. Perhaps someone running a USA Big Boy could indicate what kind of power draw the loco has. I know the smaller USA diesels draw about 2 Amps a piece. 

Mark


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## Guest (Oct 24, 2008)

On a rare happening i would have to agree with most here on this subject, if you can do it start out rite and buy the ss track with split jaw clamps as far as curves 20 or better would be prefered 16.5 is bear min and my bigboy doesnt look good at all going around it.you can buy ss flex rail witch is what i have done and i will bend most of my curve no less than 25 to 30 ft dia.as far as switchs are conserned stay away from wide raduis switch, to small for this loco, you can get away with the # 6 but be warned ahead of time to disable the micro switch in the switch as it has a tedonsy to stick and short out locos as they go thru it,i have cut them out of the ones that i have. if you do a forum seach there was a video of a bigboy going up in smoke while running, it turns out that the cause of the loco going up in smoke was probably do to the microswitch in a switch not switching the polarty of the track ..so just cut the wires on it to be safe all locos will still go thru with no problems except for some of the smaller 2 axle units.a better ideal for switchs for the bigboy would be have switchcrafters build you some #8s#10s or 12s for these locos, he does a great job and the switchs arent that much more than aristos and they work great out of the box.as far as power packs you can buy a aristo ELITE witch will work fine with this loco a bridgwerks would be better i think but the aristo is cheaper in price. a word of warning stay away from other aristo power packs the elite would be the safest one to use with this loco if your going to buy an aristo pack.good luck with your new hobbie we find it very fun and also a good bunch of people on this forum to steer you in the rite dierection so you dont make some of the mistates we have made..
Nick


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Aristo has the Elite at 22.5 volts and 13 amps, and a newer version the Everest at 24 volts and 15 amps. 
Both of these are great choices for a regulated supply that do not exceed 24 volts for the newer engines requiring higher voltage for running.


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

As far as power goes, how many volts/amps would be required to run multiple units on the same layout without overdoing it? I have been thinking about going with Bridgeworks, but not sure what to go with at this point. I am getting USA's BigBoy as mentioned before asap, and currently have a USA GP9, GP38-2, and SD40-2. Also getting a 70MAC soon. To put it another way, to run a BigBoy and 2-3 of these other units as MUs, how many volts/amps would you guys recommend? Do I need to be concerned with using too much? Thanks for all the help guys, you have really helped me alot so far ^^ 

-Will


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For power, more amps with large engines is always better and it sems like a lot of us can not get enough. 

So a supply of 10 amps or more will be good for all this equipment. 5 amps would be marginal at best. 

When MU-ing different engines, you need to be careful of matching speeds. For a single manufacturer of diesels, they will be very close, but the steam engine may not run at the same speeds as the diesel due to different gearing/motor.


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Is there a possibility of overdoing it or will the engine just take what it needs? Also, can I use DCC and sound with the same power usually? Or do they work with AC? Thanks again for all the info and time ^^ 
-Will


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## Chucks_Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

A USAT Big Boy will draw near 10 amps when the drivers start to slip with smoke, lights and sound on. How many amps the motors will draw when at full stall is something I haven't tried...yet.

So with a Big Boy drawing 10 amps I'd use nothing smaller than a Bridgewerks Mag25 TDR power supply..it's rated 25 amps at 24 volts.

I run my Big Boy thru 14.5' diameter curves on my indoor layout, it doesn't really like it but it will negotiate them. The problem isn't the centipede tender as USAT built plenty of lateral axle play into the design so it'll go thru some tight curves. The problem is the steam return line on the front engine will hit the bottom of the smokebox when in a tight curve and the boiler will have some big overhang.

Aristo's first issue #6 switches are a PIA to get right...the newer switches have a updated point design that greatly improves their performance but trains will still bump thru the "sloppy" frog design. the first issue switches were so tight in the point area that even Aristo's track gauge wouldn't go thru that area...I had to re-work about 8 of those by disassemblingand grinding them out. Like Nick stated that micro-switch to handle the frog polarity is a real winner also, do yourself a favor and remove them all together.

Aristo's SS track is decent as long as you don't get the early batch that would rust.

I can't remeber who the manufacturer is but another outfit makes code 332 SS track that can be bought in 10' lengths and with a Train-Li trackbender you could do some fantastic trackwork and use less railclamps.

Just mu .02 worth..


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ahh... I can see we may go at it again. (Chuck, I am addressing my comments to DCC not DCS). 

If you run DCC, I strongly recommend a regulated supply, ESPECIALLY if you run high current. This will make a difference in the operation. I would not recommend the Bridgewerks just because it has a high current rating for three reasons: 
1. It is not a regulated supply, and the output will vary over load. This will affect consistency of the speed of the loco. 
2. It's unloaded output voltage is sometimes too high, and this could be damaging to the DCC booster, which is the device that feeds the track, not the power supply. 
3. Since the booster limits the current, and the highest you can get in the US is 10-12 amps, 25 amps is overkill, and wasted. (and really wasteful if you need 3 or 4 power supplies) 

If you run more trains in one DCC power district, you can find a 15 amp booster in Europe, but the cost goes nuts. You normally make multiple power districts in DCC, and at these amperages, you MUST put the booster close to where you have the power district, and likewise the power supply feeding it. 

So if you are in this situation, you should do it like this. Now, all of this seems extreme, but you did indicate a Bib Boy, just about the worst case. Of course, I run 5 diesels in a consist in a power district, so it's not much different. I use 10 amp boosters and 11 amp power supplies. 

Regards, Greg


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Actually I was reading a thread about Aristo's #6 turnouts being ridiculous to run through. The argument was Aristo vs. USA Trains and USAT seemed to be the victor. If USAT made Stainless Steel track I would go with them but since Brass is their only option currently I will most likely be going with Aristo. I may just have to find a company who makes reasonable #6+ turnouts. It's pretty bad when you are spending as much money for a turnout and it isn't really built well enough for solid operation so you have to grind on it. Has anyone had any good experiences with Aristo's #6 turnouts? Has everyone had to grind on them to make them smooth?


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

Engineercub

The OVGRS uses Aristo switches now almost exclusively replacing any LGB switches originally installed. The IPP&W, host railroad for the OVGRS ( see www.ovgrs.org ), has about 80 switches and many of them are Aristo #6.

In fairness, we do not run track power and we use only our own home made manual throws. The #6 switches sometimes are high in the frog and must be filed down (a few quick swipes with a mill file) and sometimes for those using gargantuan flanges, are a little shallow in the flangeways. They also at times need the checkgauge tightened for fine semi scale flanges. None of this is difficult or timesonsuming.

We think they are a very good value even though a small amount of work is needed to bring them to peak performance. Most of the problems with them relate either to electricity (I won't comment on that subject) or the lack of standards in large scale. Let's just say that Aristo stuff generally goes through them fine.

For my own personal railroad, the Northland, I have chosen code 215 aluminum and either hand laid or Llagas Creek switches. The Llagas Creek switches are quite inexpensive, can be built in whatever size and configuration is needed and work very nicely. 

But ... you want code 332 and electricity ... and well, there are some issues to be worked on and challenges to be overcome ...

Regards ... Doug


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## Chucks_Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, not this time around and to be honest with you they're both good systems..


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Chuck, you are a good guy! Have a beer on me!

Doug, are you really talking about Aristo #6 or are you talking about the Aristo Wide Radius switches?

The reason I am asking is that the flangeways on the #6 are VERY DEEP, because there is no fill in them, it's just two metal rails next to each other.


The WR switch flangeways are plastic, as are the guard rails that make the flangeways. They are fairly deep also.

So that's one comment you made that made me suspect you are mixing up the #6 and WR.


Then the comment about the frog sticking up, well the #6 frogs are not generally too high, and they are very large and long, and it takes much more than a few swipes with a file to do anything to them.


On the other hand, the frog on the WR turnouts is plastic, and is always too high, higher than the "frog rails" that connect to it, and it should be filed down.

The FROG flangeway depths (between the frog and the wing rails) is too shallow out of the box, and way too shallow if you file down the top of the frog.


So those statement also caused me to think you mixed up the #6 and the WR turnout. 



Just trying to keep the information straight, since the people asking the question obviously are looking for help.

Regards, Greg


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

ooops ... right you are Greg ... I had confused them.

The #6 switches are as you described. And the IPP&W does use many of them.

Again we do not use the electrics so cannot comment on that aspect ... and we do install our own throws.

The #6 has had checkgauge problems that at times require shimming ... and we have at least one example with some roughness between the frog and other parts of the switch that required filing.

My Llagas Creek switches are very smooth running for all visitors rolling stock EXCEPT an Aristo 6 axle diesel. The gauge is too narrow and it rides up on the frog when the guardrail pulls it over. It does not do this on Aristos own switches which gives you some sense of what we are up against. The sloppy checkgauge needed to accomodate the Aristo locos does not work well with semi scale wheelsets correctly gauged..

Regards ... Doug


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have pretty extensive writeups on the Aristo switches on my site. 

Summarizing what I know, the WR switch needs several tweaks, but can be made as smooth as a baby's butt... 

The #6 has had tight check gauge in some units, and the flangeways are too wide on the earlier models, and the frog wiring is junk, and if the switch is not dead flat, there can be a height misalignment between the frog and the matching rails at either or both ends of the frog. The casting is so long "bowing" the switch will create this misalignment. Also, the frog has an air gap with the nearby rails, and you should stuff a piece of insulating plastic to avoid this. 

Summary, buy the WR if you don't mind taking 15 minutes to tune it up. The #6 can be problematic if you get a tight one, otherwise they run well. 

WR writeup: *http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/aristo-wide-radius-switches-mainmenu-96*


#6 writeup: *http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/aristo-6-switches-mainmenu-97*

See the main TRACK section, there are also 2 "vignettes" by Ted Doskaris... (I need to reorganize that part of the site).


Regards, Greg


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Thanks for all the info guys. It sounds like if I go with Aristo Stainless Steel #6 switches I'd better prepare for some needed alterations. This is kind of off subject at this point but would anyone care to comment on DCC versus DCS? What are the advantages vs the disadvantages? I'll be running only USA Trains power for now. But if I am running multiple engines on the same track what recommendations do you guys have? I'll be running BigBoy, SD40-2, GP9, GP38-2, and SD70MAC. With all these, how much power roughly will I need and would you guys recommend Bridgewerks? Also, can I run DCS with Phoenix sound or will I have to go with theirs? Is MTH's sound better than Phoenix? I'm sorry for bombarding you guys with all these questions but I REALLY appreciate all the help and info. You guys are going to save me alot of money by preventing me from making tons of mistakes that I would be making without you. Much thanks! 
-Will


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

This may just confuse things, and please ignore if it's not useful, but you don't have to use DCC or DCS. I run trains using onboard remote control and constant track power. I set the track to get 20 volts and each train has a decoder which is operated wirelessly. I have some running on Arizto's train engineer 75 mhz system and some running on QSI and airwire. 

As a relative I found DCC really confusing and hard to figure out and it seemed simpler to just use regular old track power and remote. At first i was justt running one train on track power, and one on the remote. Gradually I converted them all to remote. But there are advantages to DCC and to batteries and i would never suggest that the way i do it is a better way, just that it is another way you could consider


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Why not start a new thread about DCC vs. DCS, and put it in the DCC forum? 

This thread is pretty informative on switches and track... making it twice as long with an additional topic that can grow massively might not be a great idea. 

Also, the last question was not DC vs. DCC, it was DCS vs. DCC, and a reasonable question to ask for a newcomer, good to research before you dive into a system that might not be for you. 

Regards, Greg


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Ok, I'll do that. Thanks.


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## Chucks_Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg wrote*, *This thread is pretty informative on switches and track... making it twice as long with an additional topic that can grow massively might not be a great idea. 

LOL..Ain't that the truth..


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Well after so many responses and LOTS of help from Rayman I have decided to go with Stainless Steel. I really like the idea of not having to nurture the track with a thorough cleaning every week. 332 is the rail size I decided to go with just because it is a size that anyone can run on no matter how ridiculously huge their flanges are lol. And Raymond, thanks again for all your help, I've never had someone go so far out of their way to offer information to me. I really hope I can return the favor someday ^^

-Will


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good for you, I think you will never regret that decision. I haven't. 

Regards, Greg


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