# Repainting with Krylon Fusion?



## moonspenders (May 7, 2012)

I'm planning on repainting an LGB mogul and wondered if anyone has ever tried using Krylon
Fusion for Plastic® to repaint before? I would think it might bond better to the plastic parts, but I've never tried it before. Anyone have any good or bad experience with it? Do any other paints (acrylic or otherwise) work/not work well with it?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Don't do it. I've heard really bad things about it, enough to completely scare me off from wasting my money. I've always had good enough luck with regular Krylon. Prime first, then paint. It sticks rather well to LGB's plastic (and/or the paints they use on their plastic). When I paint, I usually prime then paint the top coat within one hour of priming. If you can't make that work timewise, plan on allowing at least a day between priming and topcoat. That "middle period" between 1 hour and 24 hours invites crazing of the paint. 

Also, if you've got an airbrush, consider using Badger's ModelFlex line of paints. I've _really_ become a fan of these paints in the past few years. They come pre-thinned for the airbrush and go on very smoothly. They also brush paint on and cover equally well--sticking remarkably well to bare metal and other smooth finishes. It also withstands heat remarkably well, as I've used it to paint live steam boilers. 

Later, 

K


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had extremely good luck with Krylon fusion, even better than regular Krylon... Gotten so I use 
rattle can Krylon paints more than my air brush... I too recommend Badger's Model Flex line, been 
using them for years, they go on well, cover well, an adhere well... The only caution is that I have 
run into noticeable shade differences batch to batch on occasion, much more than U'd expect...
I have on rare occasions gotten bad batches of paint from them, but they've always made good 
on it...
Paul R...


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had mixed results with Fusion and don't use it anymore. Except for the Camo Flat Black.... It covers very, very well. Then I overcoat it with the Krystal Clear Acrylic Satin... Be aware of the Krystal Clear Acrylic Flat. It melts decals. The Krylon Matte in can #1311 works just fine. 

I've had much better luck with Regular Krylon products but the formula has been changing. 

Been doing some testing with Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x with very good results. Not the regular rustoleum but the 2x.... 

Shake the cans very, very, very well...


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Ken, 
I don't know about the plastic that you are going to be painting onto, but I use the Fusion all the time when painting direct onto styrene sheet. 
I find that it does really stick well, whereas other primers and paint will peel off. 
Maybe best to buy a can, mask off a bit that doesn't show, and try a little as a test. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used Krylon/fusion for some time now, and really like it, BUT I have had problems when I've tried painting when it was too cool/damp outside. Make sure you pay attention to their minimum temperature requirements. 

Keith


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Boy, where were you guys last time this subject came up? All I've heard have been horror stories of crazing and peeling. Good to know people are getting good results with the stuff. 

Later, 

K


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

The only time I've had crazing and peeling was when it was too cold. My all time favourite is the grey primer--I use it as my industrial grey go-to paint for wheels and equipment-- just love it.


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

*There is a whole lot more to painting models, and most anything else, than the paint itself... *
*I don't find fusion much, if any different from most other paints... Proper **surface prep, proper*
*temp & humidity levels, especially humidity, ample drying time, and **probably most **important, 
good spraying technic.... It takes awhile to learn how to paint, and most of us don't **do enough 
of it to get very good at it, but we keep trying anyway...*
*I'm going to post a couple of close-up pics here of the last thing I painted, a heavy consolidation 
I bashed with **Krylon Fusion, 2421 **satin black, overcoated with Krylon matte... *
*These **R not the best pics I **have of it, but probably show **the paint work better than some **others... 
It didn't **turn out too badly I think, U can tell me honestly what U **think of the Fusion paint job, 
I'm not at all **thin-skinned...*
*Paul R 

















*


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## moonspenders (May 7, 2012)

I figured that humidity would definitely be a factor; same with temperature. It's getting into the mid-70s here next week, but I'll see if conditions are right for painting. The loco and tender are sitting in pieces now on my desk, waiting for me to remove the screen printing, mask, and get prepped for painting (after a good wash... it arrived a bit dirty and with a bad re-glue job in some areas that needs some scraping off). I was originally thinking of using flat black, but after seeing your photos, maybe satin would be better. 

I think it's a fine paint job. Some more experienced people might have more of a critique about it, but I'd say it came out well. The front yellow numbering looks slightly bigger and less crisp than my anal-retentiveness would be happy with, but the paint is fine!  If I saw that coming down the track, I wouldn't assume it was a repainted bash at all.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul..... It looks great. 

Very nicely done...


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## CJGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm a fan of rustolium universal spray cans, use them all the time for automotive things, and works great thus far!


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## moonspenders (May 7, 2012)

It's a nice day (70 degrees F, 30% humidity) so I figured I'd test out Krylon Fusion satin black. It worked so well on the cowcatcher and cab, I went ahead and painted the tender parts. The only part I didn't paint is the boiler (since I forgot to get painter's tape to mask off the important parts). Once it's all done, dry, and reassembled, I'll snap a few photos of the semi-finished, unlettered black mogul. 

And thanks... I'll keep the Rustoleum in mind for future reference, Sean.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By CJGRR on 10 May 2012 03:03 PM 
I'm a fan of rustolium universal spray cans, use them all the time for automotive things, and works great thus far! 


I have never favored Rustoleum spray paint. Over the past forty years or so, I have always returned to Krylon. Rustoleum spray tips always clog after the first use. I find their paint takes longer to dry and is not as hard as Krylon once it has cured.


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## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

Rustoleum has a couple of primers in different greys that R useful from time to time for smokeboxes, 
fireboxes, etc... They also have a flat black primer that is really, really flat too, it stinks something 
awful when spraying and just about has to be used outdoors... If Ur looking for a large variety of 
colors in rattle-cans, check Wally-World, maybe not the best paints in the market place, but lots of 
color variety, and their certainly cheap enough... 
Paul R...


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2008)

Slightly off topic, but I have had great results with the Krylon Camoflauge flat paints (brown, black, olive, beige) for re-habing buildings. Great for roofs. As Paul R said, prep and environment on this stuff is key. Tried the Rustoleum camo, did not find it adhere as well. 
Chip


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