# Aristocraft SS Track



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Played trains to test the Crest Train Engineer I dusted off this morning Found one of my Aristocraft #6 turnout frog has lost contact in one direction, had to be removed for repair. To the point: the little allen head SS screws for the track joiners CAME RIGHT OUT without a struggle. The track was elevated January 07 (previously ground) and haven't had a continuity problem anywhere till just today. The only cleaning on the track has been wiping down after staining the decking. Kudo's to a great product.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My 850 feet is all Aristo, with about 30 switches, both WR and #6. It was a good investment, still in good shape. Best investment for track power, I might have to tighten a couple of clamps each year, so very reliable.

Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Directed attention to the frog: Made a functional schematic of the turnout with the tiny switch that powers the frog. Believe I ordered the correct make/break micro switch, and if not just move the wires to a different contact to produce same results. Also that micro switch can be done away with and the contact made externally while constructing a very nice switch stand. All is under control and Havin' fun.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, I have ditched those "waterproof" microswitches that are non-adjustable, and all the crummy wires underneath. I directly power the short "frog rails" with copper wire between railclamps.

My pneumatic turnout "motors" have an internal microswitch to power the frog. (clearly we are talking Aristo #6 switches only).

Notice everything either rusting or corroding.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, tried to send you a response, came back 'undeliverable'. Will post it here Wednesday for sure.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Bill who? Only you and me on this thread so far Nick.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Three years on the ground and 13 years elevated, good planning and proper drainage show no corrosion or damage. I did evict a nest of spiders sharing the space with the micro switch. Saw a nice track side switch stand made from brass, can combine two fun things into one, new micro switch and ground throw stand on same project.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I "water" my track twice a day, so the extra moisture and the water made the difference here. Also, for a while I left track power on 24/7... and that is DCC, so 40 volts peak to peak.

Clearly that did not help.

I do notice rust/corrosion on the right hand terminal on your PolySwitch .... I wish all the components underneath were SS.

Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Soaking the rail clamps in Acetone to remove the old stain, looks like something from a Sci Fi movie. Found the MACRO adjustment for close up's on the camera, cool feature. So close can see the little melting points that hold the body together, will make taking it apart so much easier to see exactly what failed, the contact? moving parts worn? Tested the other 3 #6's, all working just fine AT THIS TIME. Ordered enough relays to replace those when the time comes.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

the first picture is indecipherable, you are soaking what? the original joiners, or actual rail clamps?

Were you able to purchase "waterproof" micro switches (you called relays)?

Aristo claimed these were waterproof, but when you open them you see they are not.

Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm like a kid with a new toy, that Macro feature shows things I can't see with my naked eye. The interior is pristine. The contacts plainly seen are still shiny, no sign of arcing. Appears it wore out mechanically, not enough throw left to make contact.
EDIT: looking for other things to MACRO, this is fun.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Not to be a pest, but I did ask a couple of questions....


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

As promised the relays/micro switches arrived yesterday. While the contact positions and differental travel are correct, as you can see (from the end one) the tabs are much too long Could modify the rods that go to the connections on the frog and rails, or replace with insulated wire, but chose to drill and cut the tabs. Extremely frustrating and costly, broke 2 drill bits, small piece of paper towel and masking tape to stop the bleeding. Also, the holes for the mounting screws are much too small, don't know if they can be enlarged without breaching the interior wall. Bench testing with ohm meter shows they function as orignal equipment. Will apply a smear of conductive grease to my rail clamps and joiners and re-install it. Need more research to find a better fit but these will do for now. Will be playing trains most of today.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Test: straight DC track power, this is the one truck loco that brought my attention to the defective frog, I can't ask for more.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If I can make a suggestion, crawl through the switch at 5 smph or slower for your test.... that will really do it...

Greg


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

It was pointed out elsewhere that the lights didn't even flicker going through the frogs, that will happen on just dirty track and everyone knows a short frame loco will stall on a dead #6 frog, SEE my previous post. Also only the sliders are picking up rail power. These side frames came from USAT without axle bushings, long story, no point getting into that. I believe I have presented all there is to say on this. If I do come up with a better fitting relay I'll start another thread, thank you.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, there are actually waterproof microswitches out there, the Aristo ones are not waterproof, despite the advertising. A waterproof microswitch usually has a rubber boot covering the actuator pin.

I would like to hear the story on the USAT sideframes sometime, not necessarily on this thread of course.

Greg


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