# Doc's Private Car Revisited



## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc’s Private Car Revisited
 
I can’t believe it’s been almost 4 years since I started this project.  I hate to admit it but the car has been locked up in a box for almost 3 years.  A lot of this had to do with our packing up and moving from Virginia to North Carolina and the ensuing effort to get the new house and yard/layout into shape.
 
At the time, the scratch building of a 1:20 passenger car/business car was unique.  There were only a couple of other persons who even attempted such an involved project.  One of them was Kevin Strong and his combine #18.  In fact, he was my inspiration.  The only commercial products available were kits offered by Hartford, Don Winter, and I believe Phil’s Narrow Gauge.
 
However, things have changed.  In the past year, several people including Kevin and Richard have posted some really fantastic passenger/business car projects of which I am duly impressed.  In addition, the styrene Carter Bros. passenger car project initiated by David and produced by Rick, the production of wood kits by Bronson-Tate, and the release of plastic passenger cars by AMS have revitalized the interest in passenger cars.
 
All these recent events have renewed my inspiration and brought me to the realization that, if I didn’t get back to my car now, I might never.  So, a couple of months ago, I decided to set aside my Mason Bogie project and drag out the old car and get on with it.
 
Many of you are new to MLS and probably aren’t aware of my previous work.  It was originally posted in the Master Class Forum.  Here is the old article for those who want/need to be reminded of the steps that went into the construction of my private car.
 
http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24318


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

THE INTERIOR:[/b]
 
When I last worked on the car I had begun detailing the insides of the exterior walls.  I had developed a technique for creating the effect of paneling.  It involved layering the walls with various pieces of 1/32” basswood, staining the pieces, and spraying them with high gloss polyurethane.  Since it has been so long, it took me a while to figure out exactly what I had done to get the effect.  Luckily, it was documented in the MLS archives.  My next step was to create the interior walls that were used in the prototype.  I tried to follow the prototype as best I could.  The paneling that I decided to use in no way reflects the actual prototype.  I really don’t know what the interior of the Edna looked like.  I used much of what I learned from reading “Mansions on Rails” by Lucius Beebe to glean ideas.  That book contains a wealth of information on private cars and I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to build their own private/business car.  Cars described in the book range from the sublime to the ridiculous.  I picked sublime I guess.
 
Here is a photo of the walls temporarily installed prior to paneling.  The interior walls begin as 1/16” basswood.
 








 
I attempted to duplicate the paneling that I used on the inside of the exterior walls, after all, it had been a rather long time and we old folks have a tough time remembering last week.
 
After cutting the wall sections, I stained them with a first coat of Minwax golden oak.  Below are a few pictures of the partially completed paneled walls.  The panel pieces have not yet been stained.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

THE INTERIOR (Continued):[/b]
 
Sorry for having to break this thing into several pieces.  I tried to do it all at once but the system wouldn’t allow me.
 
Here is one section of wall with a paneled door temporarily put in place.
 








 
This picture shows the same door stained, finished, and hardware installed.
 








 
A close up of the raised paneling detail.


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow. Getting to ride around in that car would make you want to be a railroad baron! Beautiful work.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

THE INTERIOR (Continued):[/b]
 
Next, I’ll show you a series of photos of the interior walls with stained paneling.
Note: None of the walls have been permanently installed.  They were set in place for photo purposes.
 
A shot through the rear door:
 








 
A view from above of the front hallway:  The small compartment lined with aluminum is where the Baker Heater will go.
 








 
A view from the front:  The camera is positioned above the kitchen area.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

THE INTERIOR (Continued):[/b]
 
Here are a few more shots of the interior.
 
A view of the dining area, from the front looking into the parlor:  The windows still have the cardboard fillers in them.  I still haven’t painted the exterior side walls.
 








 
Another view of the dining area looking toward the bedroom:  One side of the car has been removed for the photo.
 








 
And last, a view of the parlor looking forward toward the dining area:
 








 
I think that’s enough for now.  In my next posting, I’ll show some of the interior fixtures including built-in furniture, bathroom fixtures, Baker Heater, and kitchen stuff.
 
It’s been a long time since I’ve been all that active on the site but maybe this project will get me back into the swing of things.
 
Doc


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Doc,

  WOW, your interior is super, nice work. Good to hear you'r back at it, I really enjoy checking the building logs, I think they creat a lot of interest on MLS. Keep up the good work.

  chuckger


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Holy Schnieke's !! Doc - I think I met / saw you at the ECLSTS one time, with this car and maybe a 4-4-0?  Either way, this is one impressive model.  Looks great!! I like the persian rug, too.  

Even though I have no talents for making models, these are inspiring to see!

Mark


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc

I've been tempted many times to ask about your progress on the private car, but figured that when you got everything straightened around after the move you'd get back with us for an update.

Boy! Did you ever. that is really some fantastic progress not to mention professional workmanship.

Many thanks for once again taking the time to share.


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

That thing is gorgeous! Hate to see you have to put a roof on it. 

John


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow that's great! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif

Are you planning to put a bed in the car?  

I'm still looking for the right dollhouse furniture brass bed for a business car I repainted.  They are usually too big for my 1:22.5 scale.  I bet most are perfect for 1:20.3


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, 

You're back and with a splash. Whatta splash it is too! Maybe you should consider making two roofs for that beauty, one solid for running it, and another of clear acrylic for viewing and display. Work like that needs to be seen.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys.  It feels good to be back.  I hope I can keep after it until completion.  Spring is almost here and the layout will be calling.

Mark,  You sure did see this thing at ECLSTS.  I think it was 3 shows ago.  I may bring it to this year's show.  I'll be there all day Friday.  Probably head back sometime Sat. morning.

John and Richard,  The roof is removeable and will remain so.  I wouldn't cover up all that work.

San Juan,  I made a bed with storage underneath.  I'll show it in my next posting.  I've seen some 1:24 dollhouse stuff and am using some but it's too small.

Doc


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

All I can say is WOW! You really raise the bar HIGH. I haven't read all the previous article, but I have book marked it. That back railing is fantastic, the way you did the trucks was amazing! I have a couple of questions that are probably covered in the article but which I hope you can answer anyway since I am in a rush to know for my own (modest project) 
1. Where did you get that lock set and hinges for the doors? What sizes or product number are they 
2. Where did you find that carpet? 
3. Where can I find brass rings, and what sizes do they come in? 
Just beautiful Doc,,, I can't say enough about it.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard,

Thanks for the compliments.  You are one of the reasons I just had to get back to this project.  I have admired your car building talents and especially your casting skills.  I plan to order several of your figures in the near future.

BTW, the trucks are Hartford passenger truck kits.

To try to answer your questions:

1. Where did you get that lock set and hinges for the doors? What sizes or product number are they 

Miniatures.com has a good selection of 1:24 fixtures.  4242 6 Sets of Mini Hinges with 4 Nails 1 $5.99 1145 Traditional Round Knob w/Back Plate by Houseworks 1 $2.40 
http://www.miniatures.com/hbs/global/index2.asp


2. Where did you find that carpet?

I got the carpet at a dollhose store in Falls Church,VA a few years ago

3. Where can I find brass rings, and what sizes do they come in?

I got the brass rings at Michaels.  You can probably find them at any craft or fabric store that carry jewerly findings, etc.

Hope this helps.

Doc


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## Rich Schiffman (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc,

Wow, you have really captured the look of varnished hardwoods for the interior panels. I have tried but not been sucessful. You nailed it. 

By the way, Doug Bronson uses the brass hinges in his Carter Bros. Passenger car kits. Way to go Doug. 

In the past 2-3 years the bar has been elevated for all sorts of modeling, Doc you just bumped the interior standards over the top. Again, I say Wow.

Rich Schiffman


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Doc, 
The info is much appreciated, I got some shopping to do  
Thanks for the compliments about my coach building skills, but reading through your archived thread has taught me that I need to acquire a lot more skills. I would love to see Dillingham standing on that platform .


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, that looks SOOOO real. Jerry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

She's simply gorgeous Doc!! I add my kudos to everyone else's. I'm going to have to reread your log to refresh my memory on how you accomplished some of this. The results certainly speak for themselves. Magnificent!!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely _gorgeous _Doc! What are you going to use to light her with?


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely beautiful


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## Jim Francis (Dec 29, 2007)

Doc, 

That is simply Fantastic!

Cannot wait to see more of this awsome project!

Those 1/2" scale dollhouse parts look right at home where you have used them.

Looking forward to seeing more of this car.

Jim


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Great work, Doc.

Hope to see you at ECLSTS this year, I'll be running on Clem O'Jevits' _Warrior Run Locomotive Works_ modular layout as usual. I should have my bashed AMS J&S coaches ready by then.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Doc, glad you're gettin' back on this project. Looks great. I just started staining the interior of mine. Slow process, but it's turning out rather nice. I was rather amused to go back and read your original thread, especially all the things I said I *wasn't* going to do next time that I ended up doing. Ah, the joys of a short memory. 

Richard, Dillingham's going to have a place on my end platform, for certain. I may have to add Abe to the list, so they can stand out there and chat. I just got a bunch of 1/8" diameter rare-earth magnets, so I'm going to experiment with using them to hold the figures in place so they can be moved if necessary. 

Jack, what kind of magic are you working with your coaches? 

Later, 

K


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks again people for your words of encouragement.  I can only say that true inspiration resides on this website and no others.

Steve, I plan to use commercially available 1:24 fixtures.  I know we talk about scratch building lamps way back when, but there's too many other projects to do.  I believe Kevin mentioned these lamps in his recent business car build.  Here is what they look like.










I plan to use the 2 wall fixtures on the right in the bedroom and the bath.  I had to shorten the hanging fixture a bit to keep it from hitting the passengers' heads.

Here is a picture of the packaging.










Doc


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By East Broad Top on 03/14/2008 12:40 AM

Jack, what kind of magic are you working with your coaches? 

Later, 

K

Kevin,

I'm bashing, repainting and lettering a couple of AMS J&S coaches in the new livery for _my_ "D&RGW" (very similar to the coach body on the inspection engine I posted recently - see below.) I think I'll have them ready in time for the ECLSTS in York, PA, at the end of the month. Will post some pix here sometime soon afterward. Stay tuned.


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## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

Doc, 
Thats some amazing woodwork. I wish i could do that sort of thing in 1:1,let alone in miniature. 

Scott


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, That is simply amazing!!! I hope to do one some day but doubt it will come close to your beauty.


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

A fine piece of craftsmanship!!! One of these days I am going to try that. It looks so good, I think I might try it as 1 to 1 in the backyard. It will make a great dog house for me.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks again for your compliments.  They keep me going.
 
INTERIOR FIXTURES:[/b]
 
With this posting, I thought I’d present some of the fixtures/furniture that I have made for this car.  Again, without prototype interior photos, most of the things I have created are from my imagination and some things I learned by reading Beebe’s book.
 
I guess I’ll have to break up the postings again to make sure I can load them.
 
I haven’t attempted to tackle any sophisticated stuff like chairs, sofas, or tables.  I just might use the 1:24 pieces I’ve purchased along the way.  I don’t think I want to take the time to devote to this, there are too many other things I’d rather be doing.
 
Bathroom Fixtures:[/b]
 
Let’s start with bathroom fixtures.  They only involve sinks and toilets.  The first picture is of the 2 toilets.  One is for the guest/employee bathroom and the other for the master bedroom.  They are identical.
 








 
The next 2 pictures are of the master bedroom sink.
 
















 
The 2 photos below show the other bathroom sink.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Your photos leave me absolutely bewildered as to the actual scale of the objects. And that is the pinacle of modeling. OUTSTANDING models.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Charles.  I gues that is the ultimate challenge in any modeling.  That's the main reason I decided to go into large scale railroading.  It's much easier to approximate real life at that scale.

Doc


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

INTERIOR FIXTURES:[/b]
 [/b]
Master Bedroom Furniture:[/b]
 
The Bedroom only has 2 pieces of furniture besides the sink and toilet; a bed with storage and a closet.  Since storage is at a premium, I decided to add additional drawer space under the bed.  The tall cabinet is designed to accommodate clothes on hangers.  They are both constructed of 1/16 basswood.
 
















 
Oh, I didn’t mention the wallpaper.  Yes, many private cars indeed used wallpaper to add a little color and life to the rooms.  I’m sure there were some women/wives involved in those decisions.  I downloaded some “Printables” wallpaper samples and decided on the one shown.  I think it adds a little Victorian glitz and breaks up the never ending walls of paneling.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

I’m sorry that I have to break up my postings into such small pieces, but this (%$*&!) new system is no where as good or easy as the old one.
 
Here’s an overhead of the bedroom:
 








 
And another from the doorway:
 








 
A shot through the bathroom door:
 








 
OK, that’s it for now.  I’ll be back later with a description of the heating plant and kitchen.
 
Doc


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you intend to rent these rooms out for the weekend... or maybe on a month to month basis? When can I move in? I love the wallpaper.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Doc,

   One word FANTASTIC!!!   Where did you get the water valves on top of the sink--thanks

   chuckger


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

That's so nice, Doc. 

Are you bringing it to York this year?


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck,

The faucets came from some cheap 1:24 bath fixtures made by Town Square Miniatures.  I got them from miniatures.com.  I carefully removed the faucets from the porcelain sink and tub.


Bruce,

Yes, I'm bringing it to York.  It won't be done but what the hey.  You mentioned you weren't going to be the until Saturday.  I was planning to be there all day Friday and heading back Saturday AM.  How early will you be there?  I can hang around till maybe 10:00 AM.

Doc


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, 
You have mail! (Well, hopefully!) Maybe we can meet there Friday night?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Doc, 
Your interiors are incredible. I love the detail!


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, I somehow missed this thread. I hate to sound repetitious, but WOW! And I mean WOW!

You must be and should be very proud of this work of art. I guarantee it will be an heirloom.

WOW!
Matt


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Doc, how many paint/sanding cycles are you going through to get that nice smooth finish? I'm just in the process of staining my interior, and after three coats (stain, clear, clear) with sanding in between, I'm still showing things to be a bit rougher than what you've accomplished. (Yes, I'm jealous.) 

Later, 

K


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin,

Except for a couple of small areas (where I used 1/64 plywood), all of the wood I used was basswood.  Basswood is notorious for being "fuzzy".  The one thing I did after cutting each piece was to sand "all" sides with 320 grit sandpaper.  This tended to remove most of the fuzz.  Basswood is also a very soft wood and, when stained, tends to result in a splotchy finish much like pine.  I tried using a sanding sealer but it wouldn't let the stain penetrate enough.  A good sanding before staining tended to minimize the splotchyness.

To achieve the color I wanted, I first stained each piece with Minwax Golden Oak, let dry overnight, then stained with Red Oak.  I let that dry at least 24 hours then I lightly sanded each piece.  Next, I sprayed each piece with 2 coats of Minwax high gloss polyurethane.  I then lightly sanded and sprayed each with a final coat of the high gloss.

I hope this helps.  Let me know how it goes.

Doc


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Doc, 
Just wondering, do you seal the basswood before you sand it? I use diluted clear acrylic about 10% water. This does two things, it raises the fuzz and then seals the fuzz beneath it so it won't stand back up the next time moisture hits it. I put on a couple of coats, then sand lightly, just enough to take off the hairy stuff. 
NOTE: That is my final step in sanding and I use 360 grit or higher for that.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard,

I highly recommend using any type of sanding sealer if you're going to paint.  However as I mentioned above, sanding sealers do exactly that, they seal the surface and really retard the penetration of any stain.

As a matter of fact, when I paint cars with wooden (scribed) siding, I first sand, then apply sanding sealer, then sand again, then spray on a coat of some type of primer usually Krylon, sand again, and finally paint on the color coat.

Doc


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

*INTERIOR (Cont'd.):*
 
*Kitchen:*
 
Let's begin with the private car's kitchen. Most, if not all, private cars had kitchens. In the 1800's, the interiors of the kitchens generally followed the design of the rest of the cars. Later, kitchen fixtures were generally constructed out of stainless steel. In my version, the fixtures/cabinetry is constructed of wood to reflect the opulence of the other parts of the car.
 
So far, I’ve only completed one side of the kitchen. The finished side contains the ice chest, coal bin, stove, and storage cabinet.
 
I could not find a miniature stove to fit my requirements so I built one. I did find a stove ‘magnet’ that had a good looking top. I fabricated the rest. Here is a photo of what I came up with:
 








 
The stove is made from styrene and a few bits of wire and pins. So far it’s still white and I’m looking for some ideas as to what color to paint it.
 
Below is a photo of the completed kitchen wall. The pieces are from left to right; the ice box, the coal bin, the stove, of course, and a storage cabinet. The ice box will house the battery for the interior lights.
 








 
Next, is a photo of the fixtures from above.
 








 
The opposite wall will contain the sink with cook’s pull-down bed above it and some additional storage. I’ll cover the bed and sink later.
 
That’s it for now.
 
Doc


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, That kitchen is looking great!! I would suggest a sligthly weathered black for the stove with maybe a little chrome on the fittings. I don't know if that would represent RR practice but that is how I remember coal stoves in houses. 
Richard and others, I found a stain presealer at Home Depot which works well on 1/1 furniture. It helps get rid of blotchiness and helps tame the grain. The instructions say to put it on and then stain within 1 hour. I did that and then lightly sanded after it dried. Two or three coats of water base urethane after that, sanded between coats, and the finish came out quite nice. I am not at home now so can't check, but I think all these products are MinWax.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, 

I just stumbled over this thread. Amazing modeling! And thank you for posting the "how-to." 

Dawg


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, 

Have you considered using Swiss Pearwood? It doesn't fuzz, stains uniformly and can be machined. 

John


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

John, 
Good suggestion, but one question because I haven't used it in over 2 decades, isn't it pretty hard compared to bass wood? If so my choice would be white cedar, which also doesn't fuzz, is soft, but not so soft you need to worry about crushing it or putting dents into it with a finger nail, and has very close grain that is very consistently colored. It recieves stain realy well and you can braze it with a smooth round rod to a shiny finish if you want to.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Doc, 


Can I suggest a splashback behind the stove and cupboard on the left? That would give some protection to the wooden interior panelling; it can be made from some heavy aluminum foil I would think, and as a bonus will reflect some light around in the kitchen. 

It could be extended round 90 degrees at the same time perhaps? 

Like those pan racks - very nice!


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Winn, thanks for the suggestion for the stove.  I'll give it a try.

Dawg,  Thanks for the compliment.  I try to share as much information as I can.  I've certainly got a lot of help from other members.

John,  I'm sure Swiss Pearwood would be great but I'm lazy and not into cutting my own lumber.  Precut basswood and sometimes mahogany are it for me.

Peter,  Yes, I intend to put flashing behind the stove - not there yet.  Still trying to finish the exterior painting also.  Thanks, the pan/dish rack is my interpretation of what is needed not what may have actually been there.

Doc


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## MarkLewis (Jan 2, 2008)

Fantastic, dedicated work! Thanks for sharing it. 

Mark


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc, 
The advantage of swiss pearwood is that you can work it with machine tools. Here is a heavily weathered beam that was cut on a mill for my K-27 










and installed on the engine 










John


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## trainbuffjr (Jan 11, 2008)

Fantastic work Doc!  For a minute I thought I was looking at a real car.  Keep us posted.

 John, could you possibly post a little more about your k-27,  is it the new one from Bachmann?


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm afraid I can't. This forum will not allow me to post a new topic. It will only let me make a reply. I've spent way too much time trying to post and after sometimes an hours work, it just resets destroying all my work. It also will not let me post pictures through the new system, though the same pictures post just fine at other websites with a similar feature. I am a 1st class member, I am paid up and I'm also signed in. It simply does not work. I sent messages on the 'contact us' but got no response. 

John


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

John:

I feel for your frustration, but I have a simple work-around that will allow you to create new topics and make longer responses.

The problem is that you are taking too long to create the missive.  Not that that is a bad thing, it is just that this system has a time-out of some sort that decides you are not logged on (or something) if you do not click the "Submit" button soon enough after opening the text entry screen.

To work-around this problem, BEFORE you click "Submit", make sure the cursor is in the text area where you have been typing (click somewhere in the text box) and then hold down the "Ctrl" key and type the letter "A", (this will "select" or highlight all of your text) and then hold down the "Ctrl" key and type the letter "C" (this will copy the selected text to the "clipboard").  You can just hold down the "Ctrl" key and type the letters "AC", no need to release the "Ctrl" key between the "A" and the "C".  Now, click the "Refresh" button on your browser or otherwise reopen the reply or new post window.  This will recreate the text entry page and tell the system you are still here.  Now click somewhere in the text entry box (being sure to move the cursor below any quoted text that might be there if you are replying to someone else's post) and then hold down he "Ctrl" key and type the letter "V". This will paste the contents of the "clipboard" to the text area and put back all your typing.  (BE SURE YOU DON'T DESTROY THE CONTENT OF THE CLIPBOARD BETWEEN THE Ctrl-AC and the Ctrl-V, or you will lose your typing, i.e.: don't type Ctrl-C or Ctrl-X between them!!!!)

To make a short more easily remembered list of all that...

1. Type your missive
2. Type "Ctrl-A", "Ctrl C"
3. Click "Refresh"
4. Click in text window
5. Type "Ctrl-V"
6. Click "Submit".


This may or may not keep any photos you have included, it depends on what method you used... I have not embedded that many photos to know, myself, the pitfalls in that realm.  Other people report that they develop the missive using Word or Notepad and then paste the text into the forum text window, add photos (already knowing where they are so time is not wasted) and then click "Submit".

Yes, I know it is more convenient to do the composing and all, right in the forum's window, but this quirk (if you will all me to reduce the vexation is causes to just the term "quirk") means you have to do just a bit more to finally finish the missive successfully!

I did all of this typing and a bit of searching of the other forums (to see if I could find those places where this has all be hashed out several times before) so it has taken a long time (relatively) to do and I am sure it would all be lost if I just sent it without doing the above.  So here goes, Ctrl-A Ctrl-C and I go click Refresh and I will do a Ctrl-V and click Submit.


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

Charles 

Thank you for all your efforts. I know you are trying to help. Unfortunately since they have now made this forum so user unfriendly, I'll just do my submissions in a friendlier forum and limit my posting here to simple responses. 

John


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By John McGuyer on 03/22/2008 10:34 PM
Doc, 
The advantage of swiss pearwood is that you can work it with machine tools. Here is a heavily weathered beam that was cut on a mill for my K-27 


I have to ask...what is the pearwood for?

Thanks

Bubba









and installed on the engine 










John


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

Bubba, 

Pearwood is used in pattern making because of its dense straight grain and the lack of 'fuzz'. 

John


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

John,

Do you have a source for pearwood?  I'd like to give it a try.

Doc


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

Sure do Doc! You seem to really like beautiful wood so you'll go absolutely nuts in this place. 

http://www.eisenbran.com/ 

John


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Baker Heater: 

The Baker heater was used for decades to heat passenger cars. It functioned much like the hot-water heater used in modern homes. Inside was a small stove with at least one coil of iron pipe running around it. Everything was enclosed in a steel jacket. The coil was connected to piping that snaked its way through the car near the floor eventually returning to the area of the stove where it rose up through the roof to a reservoir. The reservoir had a filler cap and a safety valve. Water heated by the stove moved through the piping by convection thus eliminating the need for a pump. 

Below is a sketch of one version of a Baker heater. I opted to follow this design. 










The size of my model of the boiler was essentially based on two factors: First it had to fit in the allotted space; and second what was available to make the cone-shaped top portion of the boiler. I had, in my possession, a very small plastic funnel that just happened to be the right size. This eliminated the need to fabricate one. 

I used a piece of wood dowel that happened to be the same diameter as the large end of the funnel. I then wrapped some 0.005” styrene around the dowel. Strips of styrene were used to simulate the bottom door. The stack was made from 3/8” brass tubing. Below is a picture of the heater with a primer coat. 










Next I painted the heater black and used some silver Rub & Buff to highlight the stack and lower door. I added some brass tubing and Trackside Details plumbing fixtures for the piping. The pair of lower pipes represents the source and return of the hot water that heats the car. The 2 upper pipes are the source to and return from the reservoir on the roof. I also added a brass valve and a simulated pressure gauge. 










Here is a close up of the valve and gauge. 










The final picture is of the heater reservoir on the roof. I used a small piece of wood dowel, some styrene, and bits of brass to fabricate it. 










My next installation will cover the completion of the kitchen components. 

Doc


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc’s Private Car Kitchen:

The Cook’s Berth:

In the Edna, the cook had his own berth. Unfortunately the berth was located, above the sink, in the already crowded kitchen. I did my best to try to duplicate the berth. I’m sharing some of the details of the berth’s construction so those of you who might want to detail the inside of your private cars in the future might benefit.

The basic material used was basswood. The berth’s door has a 1/64” veneer insert of mahogany plywood.

The first 4 photos illustrate the basic steps of the construction.





































The last photo shows the completed berth stained and ready for installation.










The Mostly Completed Kitchen:

The following photos show the mostly completed kitchen. I still have to finish some wall treatments and, of course, add the ceiling lighting fixtures.

The first photo is from above looking toward the front of the car. Notice that I added tile flooring to the kitchen.










The next photo is from the front of the kitchen looking back. I added shelving and siding to the top of the stove.










This is a shot of the sink side. The box to the right of the sink is an additional coal bin. The top is hinged at the back and opens for accessing the coal. The cushion on top is carved from a piece of basswood and painted with several coats of semi-gloss black. Pins were used to simulate buttons.










The next picture is a view of the kitchen looking forward.










The last 2 pictures are an attempt to show how my interpretations of the plans mimic the original kitchen. I would like to point out that the Edna was rebuilt in 1925 resulting in a few modifications to the kitchen layout. My model attempts to represent, in a fashion, the original car.

The first picture of the kitchen of the rebuilt car was kindly provided by Peter Bunce.










I tried to take a photo of my car from the same angle. It’s close but not perfect. I converted it to B&W for effect.










I hope you enjoyed this part of my private car construction. The interior is essentially complete except for installing the windows and heating pipes. Now it’s onto the roof.
Doc

_(Doc, you forgot the .jpg file extension on the last picture, I'm going to delete your following reply, SteveC mod.)_


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## Bob Poli (Mar 26, 2008)

Doc, that car is absolutely magnificent! The kitchen looks great. The tile really makes it. Did you make it or find it at a miniatures supply?


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Doc, 

As always nice work, and glad the photos have helped. Your workmanship is superb, and a delight to see - thank you for the most informative photos.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi, 

If your interest has been started in private cars with Doc Watson's superb vehicle, the following may be of interest: there is a possibility of a start to assist in a model the private cars Rico, (Montezuma), and San Juan(Edna). 

Have a look at the following website 'http://www.back2bay6.com' and scroll down the 'new products' section. 

These will NOT save you the interior work I suspect and that is for the modeller to build, but it is hopefully a start on the way. 

Please be aware the these are NOT small cars - they are quite long in their nor,al form (actual 25" long) , with Rico being the shorter of the two, and thus needing some taken out of the length of the donor coach. San Juan (Edna) is the opposite that is a scale 44 foot over the body so will need the donor coach lengthening. 

The price will be in excess of about $140(that is the price from the UK price converted in $), of the replacement sides kits by RioGrande models UK, for the AMS (Accucraft) coach kits as a donor vehicle, which will need some serious work on it. They will be available in the USA as well I believe. 
Doc Watson's vehicle has 'raised the bar', these 'kits' will save some time, which can then be used on the interior of the vehicle, to attempt to get close to this one! It will be both 'fiddly' and 'close tolerance' work - rest assured, my very small one taught me that!


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## Guest (May 7, 2008)

Doc Watson's vehicle has 'raised the bar'


how true. 
i think he put more work in that single car, than some others put in their whole layout...


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks everyone for the nice comments. I appreciate them very much, 

Bob - Although I bought the flooring a number of years ago at a dollhouse store, I think I've found the same stuff at the following site: 

http://www.miniatures.com/hbs/global/Index2.asp?T=shopping&S=products&I=aa_ProductDetail.asp&P=7311 

Peter - The photo you sent was very helpful indeed. I made a few changes to the kitchen based on your photo. 

kormsen - It does seem that I've made this project a life-long one. I guess it will become my trademark project. There are many unbuilt kits on my shelves. I promised myself I'd finish this one before I moved on. The building of my new layout will be the only thing that I will allow to get in the way of that goal. 

Doc


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Forget the layout getting in the way. You got time to remodel my kitchen???  

Hopefully I'll be able to get over to the dollhouse store next week to get some needed supplies for my car. I finished the exterior painting last week, though I still have to do the floor. 

Later, 

K


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Man, if I were three and half inches tall, I would be begging to be your cook. What a beautiful place to work!


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

And we watched it being built... 
Congratulations Don on winning Best of Show and other awards at the 2011 Narrow Gauge Convention in Hickory, NC! 
Best regards, 
Tom


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

That pie sure looks good right now


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cool! Congratulations! Of course, reveving this thread for this very worthy accolade only reminds me that 3 and a half years later , I _still_ haven't done squat on finishing the interior on my businrss car. 

Later 

K


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Way to go Doc! I knew it would do well there. Great model.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. Who would have thunk it. I am truly humbled by this award considering the caliber of work offered at this convention and conventions past. 

There's an interesting/funny story that goes along with this. I fussed for weeks trying to decide whether to enter the contest or not. I decided not to enter but, since I knew Bob Hartford was going to be there, I thought I would bring it along to show him since his parts played a major role in its construction.

The models were supposed to be entered on Wednesday but I didn't get to the convention until early Thursday. I happened into the contest room and started a conversation with the monitors. To make a long story short, they talked me into entering my model. And there you go - you never know.


Doc


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Congratulations, it was well deserved!


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## Richard Schmitt (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc Congratulations! It was a pleasure to meet and talk to you in person at the NNGC in Hickory, NC. I hope you liked the Sundance Central layout even though weathering is not your cup of tea.
Richard


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## Rene (Dec 27, 2007)

Amazing work! i reckon it looks BETTER than the 1:1 original! top stuff!


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you Rene and Ray.

Richard, the pleasure was all mine. I've been impressed by your work for years and I was grateful for the opportunity to finally meet you and talk trains. This was the first time I've had the privilege to see The Sundance in person. It is truly spectacular. I can't believe there are only a few modelers that have actually done the modeling. It is amazing work. Good luck on future projects.

Doc


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

ALL 

Don received THREE awards for the car. 

1] First place in the Passenger Car Category, popular votes of attendees 
2] BEST IN SHOW, selected by the Convention Committee 
3] The 2011 Gazette Award, chosen by Bob Brown, editor and publisher of Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette 

Number three means Don is on the hook for an article in NG&SLG in a future issue. 

I had the honor of accepting the awards in Don's absence.


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## JohnReid (Aug 31, 2010)

Great stuff ,love it! Cheers,John.


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