# first locomotive mayhem



## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

I've been doing my homework on most of the entry level locomotives out there... and the problem is basically as follows: 

I have about...600 I am able to spend on this whole thing. 
I live in a barracks room, so I dont have a ton of space for much. 
I'd really like for my locomotive to have at least a radio controlled throttle. 
Thats all that I really want... 

I'm willing to put something together, like if anyone out there knows about like a kit locomotive, or a simple homebuilding project /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif 

/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif


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## cnengineer (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome to the Steam Fraternity. If you add a little bit more money you can get a 0-4-0 LS from Aristocraft with R/C and two extra cars. It will run on small radius track and comes with everything you will need to get started. (see link below) The Ruby's from Accurcraft are somewhat cheaper but don't have R/C Even to find used engines in your price range will be difficult. 

http://www.staubintrains.com/trainshop/shopexd.asp?id=4717 

Bruce


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## dmk092 (Jan 5, 2008)

If you keep looking you can definitely find an accucraft ruby in that price range. Mamods are also pretty cheap, though from what ive read you might have to spend another 100 on aftermarket mods to get it to run properly. If youre interested in o gauge, this http://cgi.ebay.com/O-GAUGE-LIVE-ST...hash=item130240845211&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318 
is also an option. None of these have RC (though Ive seen the ruby modded with rc servos). If you want a cheap engine with RC, I would suggest the aristo mikado, which can be found for around 900. Unfortunately, I doubt that meets your space requirements, but you could always get some rollers! 
Edit: I didn't see the price drop on the 0-4-0. Nice to see it packaged in a starter set like that, although I would like to know more about this "smoke unit" it comes with


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

With the small space and a level floor an RC throttle really isn't needed, once you have the throttle set there would be no need to adjust it, unless you are doing switching. Jerry


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## Garry Paine (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome to the hobby. Does the $ include a circle of track to run on? Also, where are you located, if you are allowed to say? I'm a newbie too and this group is very free with good advice, assistance, and help in locating place to fun. Glad you're here. 

Garrett


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## dmk092 (Jan 5, 2008)

ridge road station has the aristo 0-4-0's for 640, but they dont come with the hoppers and it looks like they dont have them in stock yet. 
http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/istar.asp?a=3&manufacturer=255&dept=trains&class=G&subclass=STEAM


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

.


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

Hm... 

About Mamods- or the PPS Janet? 
I really wouldn't mind having a long term project (like improving a Mamod's performance) 

The Ruby looks cool, I'm just curious. 

Really curious.


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## highpressure (Jan 2, 2008)

Mr. Silva' 
From what I've seen you will be paying $400.00 plus for a Mamod or PPS 0-4-0 with oscillating cylinders that will need a lot of updates to make it a worthy loco. You can get a Accucraft Ruby (KIT) for $400.00, maybe a bit less if you shop around. The Ruby 0-4-0 kit comes with piston valve cylinders & a complete assembly/instruction/operation booklet and a few tools. I have all three designs (MAMOD/Ruby/PPS) and the Ruby is sure'ly the superior loco in design & running characteristics. Building the kit from the instructions is a TRUE Learning experience as you will be familiar with all of the components on a locomotive. Another plus is the information that is available on myLarge scale forums just for the asking. 
Here's one I put a coal fired boiler on, it runs very nice & pulls a respectable load, it is named "RUBE"./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crying.gif 








I needed a British outline loco so I am converting this one, it will be named "BLUBY"./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Go with Chris' offer, damn good price as per the market for a highly prices version 1 Ruby that this better than the later ones. 
Take a look at the master class of all the various conversions. There are impressive. 
As the Ol'Fart's coal fired, my favorite is our coal fired Ruby aka David Bailey kit.


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## dmk092 (Jan 5, 2008)

I agree. The ruby kit was my first engine, and building it was great experience. You might have a little trouble finding one, since from what I understand theyve been out  of production for a couple of years, but if you can, I highly recommend it. It might take a little effort if youre not a mechanically inclined person (I certainly am not), but when youre done youll understand how it operates and you wont be intimidated about tinkering with it or any engines you purchase in the future. If you have any trouble with it, this community can help you, and in addition there is a masterclass on this website that deals with assembling and modding it, which includes detailed pictures and step by step instructions. Someone even made a tuning diagram for it, which is also somewhere on this site. Not to mention, accucraft also has pretty good customer support. As far as RC is concerned, Ive seen pictures of one modded with a single servo added to the reversor to control speed and direction (and the throttle is just left open).


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

See classified, lower price.


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

Alright but how would I buy it from you? 

Where did you get the boiler to make it coal fired? 
Also, where can I buy parts to modify a Ruby?


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

One other thing that I forgot- does Accucraft make a tender and/or leading/trailing wheels for the Ruby? I saw some little 2-4-2s that looked pretty cool that were Ruby-ish


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By PFCdasilva on 07/28/2008 4:34 PM
Alright but how would I buy it from you? 





It's sold. But if you would like to be back up email me offline.


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

About the Mamod, I know that its a little work to get them to run better and all, but bare in mind that I am not going to be steaming up every day, and I really wouldnt mind a project every now and then. 
And the Mamod 0-4-0 doesnt cost too much, doesnt take up too much space, and even if I decided to modify it or something, it would keep me working on a model at least. 

Any thoughts?


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have an extensively rebuilt Mamod: 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/15294/Default.aspx#15294 

It did not make any sense from an economic standpoint, but did from a nostalgic standpoint. I got it new when I was about 13 or so. 

Now I would buy a Janet from PPS if I wanted the same type of model. But, the PPS model is all cash up front, while the Mamod could be done in installments. 

Also keep in mind that a Janet or Mamod are tiny, they are SM32 in scale or size, designed and were intended to run on O (32mm) track. While Gauge 1 versions are sold they would be dwarfed by even a small 4 wheel Austrian standard LGB boxcar.


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

Posted By Spule 4 on 07/29/2008 4:53 AM
I have an extensively rebuilt Mamod: 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/15294/Default.aspx#15294 
It did not make any sense from an economic standpoint, but did from a nostalgic standpoint. I got it new when I was about 13 or so. 
Now I would buy a Janet from PPS if I wanted the same type of model. But, the PPS model is all cash up front, while the Mamod could be done in installments. 
Also keep in mind that a Janet or Mamod are tiny, they are SM32 in scale or size, designed and were intended to run on O (32mm) track. While Gauge 1 versions are sold they would be dwarfed by even a small 4 wheel Austrian standard LGB boxcar.




Well... yeah actually I planned to do it in installments kinda- keep my hands busy. 

How well does your model run?


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Runs much better than the original. I also like it as it is alcohol fired, simple to run and control, and does not sound like a blow torch.... 

The upgrade bits can be found from PPS or from this fan site (the ex IP range): 

http://www.mamod-steam-railway.co.uk/


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## PFCdasilva (Apr 3, 2008)

Alright, how well does your model run now that you have upgraded it?


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

As I said, much better than the orginal.... Here is why: the lubricator provides a good flow of oil Vs the old method of forcing steam oild down the exhaust pipe, the upgrade O ring pistons are much more powerful, the boiler is much heavier so the model has more mass, the turned steel wheels are heavier than the cast Mamod ones that get wonky, the throttle gives better control than the "all or nothing" reverser up front. 

I have not replaced the reverser, it is not as much of a leaker once you use the 16mm Society's trick of lapping it. 

The Mamod is a toy, not a scale model, but with some tweaks, it can become powerful. With the advent of the cheap models from China such as the Edrig, the Mamod is in an odd state, as they are climbing in secondhand costs even with a loss of favor among many including a few in the UK steam/garden railway circles/ 

Another reason that PPS's Janet may be a more cost effective option, especially if the Mamod loco costs you much of anything. Burner (meths) and wheels from the UK, $100. Boiler, $200 (the ex IP version, if you buy PPS then you have to get the Goodall, safety, and regulator for exta??). Roundhouse lubricator is about $40. Upgraded pistons, about $70, buffer beams and other trinkets, $15.... Bag of steam fittings from the UK and some tubing $20. Silver solder from Ace, $10. MAP torch, $40.... 

Why rebuilding a new MSS model (even the kit) is not a cost effective measure when you compare it to the PPS Janet for about $600 US (PPS cost).


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