# Kadee/magnets/Code 250 - No?



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I'm experiencing a real sinking feeling. Did I waste a lot of time and money?

This winter I finally got to switching all my rolling stock from factroy couplers, to Kadee #1. The do look nice. My intention was (is) to be able to remotely uncouple and two cars at various places around the layout. The track is on the ground, and I'm waaaay up here. I had good experience with Kadees in my HO days; I presumed the same delights would be available to me in G.

Now I feel like I missed one little detail. I have Sunset Valley code 250 track. Suddenly the crowd goes silent. There is no mention anywhere of being able to uncouple Kadee couplers anymore.

What....am I the only person who wants to uncouple Kadees on code 250? Is there no magnet for code 250? Is there no way to use the 844 on Code 250?

No mention on Kadee's website. No Ted D. vignette. Am I missing something, somewhere?

JackM

Manual uncoupling is not a satisfactory answer. If I have to figure it out myself, I'll do it, by golly.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Really not a problem. The Kadee magnet is made to sit between the rails of Code 332 and will stick too high for Code 250. You just need to grind down/remove those ties where you want to place a magnet so it doesn't sit too high.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

don't use the 844, use the 842, and cut the ties.... better power and you have to hack at the ties anyway.... use your gauge to set the height. 

Greg


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Grinding down the ties sounds kinda iffy to me; I'm not likely to get consistent results that way. If I remove the ties, the Kadees will be "floating" in the ballast and probably not maintain a consistent height either. 

I see me making some kind of "U" shaped form out of Plastruct pieces to hold the magnets at the correct height. Cut out a few ties, then kinda hang the magnets between them. Ahhh, another summer project. 

Thanks, guys, for the reality check. 

JackM 

Howcum I never pick the easy way?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

First the larger magnet gives you better operation... the smaller one is "reduced" to fit on top of LGB ties. 

I'd cut the ties out completely (to the size of the magnet), then glue a flat platform to the underside of the ties, and then build the spot up with styrene to get the right magnet height. 

You can build it up close, then bed the magnet in epoxy glue and then use the Kadee gauge to set the magnet height precisely (you DO have the Kadee gauge right?) 

Greg


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Gauge? Sure! 

Gluing a platform to the underside of the ties would sound good, but(at least in my case) I wouldn't want to pick up the track enough to clean off the ballast and "0s & 1s" (aughts and ones) roadbed. It'd be a mess and probably keep the glue from sticking. Off hand, I'm thinking of seeing if Plastruct makes a length of S-shaped material to sort of hang a platform from the tie on each end. Then a "platform" of flat plastic sheet to hold the magnet. Or no platform and glue the magnet right to my little hangers. All that would depend on the thickness of the magnet, of course. 

No time to do the measuring today; maybe I'll be able to look into this tomorrow. On the workbench, not on the layout. I'll report back when I have something useful. 

Gotta get the propane tank refilled now. Ran out about two minutes into last night's burgers. Bummer. 

JackM


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You could slide the sheet under the ties, and use screws in 4 ties to secure the corners of the sheet tight to the bottom of the ties also. 

Whatever you do, make it solid and most importantly the right height. 

Also, bevel the leading and trailing edges of the magnet, you will thank me after you have a coupler pin that is dragging catch on the magnet edge and emergency stop a whole train... don't ask me how I know this. 

Greg


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I finally got a chance to work on this problem. Grinding down the ties seemed tedious, if nothing else. And I feared I wouldn't get very consistent results. So I went with what was ruminating in my head: I'll remove a couple ties and hang the magnet in a plastic "sling". Change the dimension,s and the concept can be used in any size of track. Dimensions given here are:
a - approximate (I ain't Ted D., ya know)
b - based on Sunset Valley Code 250 "mainline" track


Remember, your mileage may vary.


First thing is to remove two ties by cutting the middle piece that holds the ties a consistent distance apart. I use a pair of diagonal cutters which leaves a bit of a stub which needs to be removed to provide a flat surface on the tie. I use a file, just rubbing the tip of it against the leftover nub until it's pretty flat.


Also remove the middle piece from between two other ties nearby. This will give you some room to adjust the distance between the two ties that will hold the sling.


I tried two different styles to support the magnet. A - my original thought - is a "Z" shape - Plastruct #90595, cat. number ZFS-8, and


B - an I-beam shape - Plastruct #90548, cat. number HFS-12


I started with the Z shape, cutting off two pieces of the Z material about 1.4 inches long. This length should allow the piece to sit flat on the tie without being lifted up on the tie plate of either rail. Then I cut a piece of scrap .04 inch flat plastic approx. 2.0" x 1.4". I glued this piece into the Z's to form the sling.









I might've gotten a cleaner joint if I'd have cleaned up the edge on the left piece, but it's not critical since the sides of the ties should hold the sling fimrly in place. Now if you place the Kadee 842 magnet into the sling you have the basic product, except that the magnet isn't high enough. To raise the magnet to proper height (1/64" above rail height) I cut some pieces of scrap plastic 2.0" x 1.4" which I slipped into the sling before placing the magnet. I kept adding pieces until I reached .10" of thickness. That's the thickness that seems to work for me. Naturally, pieces of thinner plastic are more flexible, which makes them easier to insert into the sling.











I wasn't sure the Z shape would work because it provides only a narrow area to hold onto the ties and a similar area on the bottom piece of the sling. But, as I mentioned, the ties hold eveything firmly in place. Possibly, trains rolling over it might cause the ties to separate, but I expect that my gravel roadbed and ballast should hold everything in place for a long time. I've had few examples of track movement over the past few winters. But we can take a look at style B, which certainly looks more robust that the Z style.


Style B is an I-beam shape. Dimensions are as above, but one part of the "I" must be removed. 









Note that I wasn't overly precise with my saw. I figure I can adjust the ties to cover for my sloppy workmanship.


The Plastruct I-beam listed above fits the Sunset Valley ties nicely, with a bit of freeplay to allow navigating the pieces into position. 









Once you've put the sling together you can separate the pieces and apply some liquid styrene cement to hold things in place. And whatever other glue you like to hold the magnet evenly between the rails.











A little bit of dark paint would hide the plastic Z or I-beam. 


I would imagine this sling would be adaptable to most any other brand and size of track. It's all a matter of getting the magnet to the proper height.


JackM
An advantage of the sling method is that the magnet can easily be moved to a different location, as needed. Simply push the sling up from under the track. If you glued the various pieces well, the whole thing should pop out as a single unit.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 08 May 2013 02:17 PM 
You could slide the sheet under the ties, and use screws in 4 ties to secure the corners of the sheet tight to the bottom of the ties also. 

Whatever you do, make it solid and most importantly the right height. 

Also, bevel the leading and trailing edges of the magnet, you will thank me after you have a coupler pin that is dragging catch on the magnet edge and emergency stop a whole train... don't ask me how I know this. 

Greg 
Even a 45 degree bevel helps..

Greg


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Greg - 

I do plan on beveling the edges once I get my shipment of 442s. When you say "Even a 45 degree bevel helps.." I presume you like even a more gradual slope than that??? 

The magnets seem to be a rather soft material. Will my bench grinder do the job alright? 

JackM


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A more gradual slope maybe 1/3 the thickness of the magnet for maybe 3/8 of an inch... This is so any couplers hanging down have a better chance of not catching. . If mounted properly there should not be any problem but there's always one that got loose ha ha


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