# Making Parts



## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have been making my own parts for a while and just started to keep my notes with dimensions etc. I just got tired of designing the same part over and over again.
So I decided to scan my shop notes for future reference and to share them with you
For what it is worth, here they are.

This one is self explanatory









The check valve detail


















PTFE fittings


















Dog Bone fitting for articulated engines. I later found that by using 5/16" stock and leaving the center at 5/16" it keeps the center section from sliding into the female end thus keeping the fitting centered better


































Automatic cylinder drains









Cyl cross porting



























5mm sight glass









The gas tank valve must draw from the top. On the top example a hole is drilled at the top of the valve. On the bottom one, a pickup tube is routed to the top of the tank.









Jet blank dimensions for 5mm mount









I use these small valves to control lubricator flow, blow down. generator steam flow and tender water heating among other things.









Avery small popoff valve









The stainless handle here helps keep the fingers from getting burnt









Smokebox hinge









Compression tubing fittings


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Awesome! How 'bout an axle pump?


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Bill. Thanks for the contribution.

Shop notebooks. Gotta have them

Bob


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

A goldmine of information Bill...thanks for sharing!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

This kind of stuff amazes me. If I try to build a box I couldn't draw a diagram for it, much less tool the parts to an nth of an inch. 

JackM


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

JackM,
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger.
We each have our own skill set. I know what mine isn't.


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## JimB (Jan 25, 2013)

*Thanks*

Thanks Bill


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

About that axle pump, I hadn't taken any shop notes so I backed into this

An axle pump is a smaller version of the hand pump with a few exceptions
The check valves are inside the pump body
The check valves must be perfectly sealed or it will leak back against the boiler pressure (hand pump usually is used at start-up)
Check ball travel is limited to 1/8 of the ball diameter (.015" for a 1/8" ball)

Here is a sketch of one which tries to show the design. the orange hole does not go all the way through but connects the yellow and blue holes with the large cylinder hole and is plugged at the entrance.









Here is the only shot I have of a pump body which hasn't been fully drilled out. Note the threaded plugs with the long pins which will restrict the ball movement. they are sealed with RTV or thread lock and are screwed down till they contact the ball and then backed off 1/2 turn









Here is the preferred connections. A 3/32 hole is drilled to the check valve hole and then a 1/8" hole is drilled deep enough for a good solder job and then a 5mm male fitting or a 1/8" tube is attached









Banjo fittings can be attached but if you do that on the top of the outlet hole, you will need to drill holes in the plug used for the ball limiter









Here is a leak proof banjo fitting. It is made from 5/16" stock with a 5mm thread and the .270 flat recess is made with a small boring bit or 7mm end mill .030 deep. the o-ring is 5mm id









An eccentric hole can be done on a four jaw chuck or just shim up the three jaw like this.









After the hole is drilled, the piece is re-chucked and turned out like this.









here is a ball bearing eccentric. this will last forever and cause less drag but the throw is limited









Here is the pump for the ball bearing eccentric. It has a Scotch yoke which is cut from 1/*" brass and has sheet brass on both sides which keeps it centered on the bearing. You can see the cross hole plug on the side of the pump. The mounting plate also acts as the pony truck mount. Fittings are attached to long copper tubes to allow access when the pump is mounted


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx a bunch for info.
Marty


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the manner in which you establish the proper lift for the balls in this axle pump (Threaded fitting screwed down fully then backed off 1/2 turn)...on the few tries I have made at an axle pump I struggled to get the lift the right amount...will try this method for my upcoming project...


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I hope you read this and will answer my question. What type stainless balls do you use? (i.e. grade 16, 440C ?)


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Dave

The most corrosion resistant McMaster sells is 316. I used 304 before and they don't hold up


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Bill, do you use your Mini Valve for bypass for axle pump?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I haven't used for that yet as there is usually more room for a bypass valve and it can benefit from the larger pipe size. I usually use it for dead leg lubricators, blow downs, steam generators, tender water heaters etc.
On my garratt, I used a smaller axle pump with no bypass to see how that would work. i am still testing it but so far, so good.
*TO ALL
I wonder if anyone has any ideas to add to this thread. Please feel free to add them*


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

When making a check valve, how big of an advantage is it to use a 3/16 ball? I'm drawing up my pump and i think i can squeeze in 3/16 balls, but is it worth the hassle?
Thx.
Marty


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

It seems like it is easier to get a good seat with a larger ball, but as far as flow goes, 1/8" is appropriate with 1/8" or 3 mm tubing which most pump systems use.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Mr. Bill, i need a whistle valve. Attached is picture of Kozo design from climax book. You have a better, simpler design?
Thx.
Marty.


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## John 842 (Oct 1, 2015)

What a wonderful collection of designs - many thanks for posting those. 

Making these kind of parts, in this scale is pretty new to me as I'm downsizing to a workshop area in my appartment. I would be interested to hear your view as to the best type/make/smallest lathe for this purpose. 

Regards
John


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Marty
Actually, My design is very similar to Kozo's. In fact when I did my Heisler, I copied part of his design. I don't use the packing around the push pin as a stainless rod in a reamed hole (even a drilled hole) will produce a nearly steam tight seal and the small amount of steam that escapes on the whistle side of the valve will affect nothing.
Just make sure you use a D bit as described by Kozo or in the check valve drawing in this thread
Here is a photo of the valve. I later replaced the brass lever with a stainless one as it doesn't get as hot as the brass one.









John
I use a Microlux 14" (Micromark). It is a desktop and will handle almost everything we need in our scale. Harbor Freight has a 10" version of the same lathe.
mt Friend Henner uses a smaller one. I think it is a Taig. He usually looks at my threads so perhaps he can enlighten you more.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

My lathe is a Sherline. Its capacity is sufficient for smaller 1:20.3 live steamers. My Betsy was built entirely with Sherline equipment.
As this thread is about making parts: I posted a thread about casting Zamak in steel molds:
http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/54850-casting-zamac-steel-molds.html
and in my Guinness thread:
http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/16460-guinness-beer-alcohol-butane.html
there are multiple suggestions on how to make parts like drilling 8/1000" gas jets, cutting tiny levers without CNC, Unfortunately all pictures describing how to make hand rail stanchions and hinges got lost, when the forum was upgraded. I can add them to this thread if someone is interested.
Regards


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## John 842 (Oct 1, 2015)

Hi Bill and Henner - many thanks for your replies. 

I've looked at a number of small lathes like the Sherline, Taig, Proxxon etc. and I've not liked the idea of the extensive use of alluminum in their construction. However, the 'proof of the pudding is in the eating' as they say and the many excellent projects and recommendations made by people like yourselves on these machines suggests that they are much more capable than they look.

On a slightly different topic - I'm currently having some trouble getting a Bowande Black 5 poker burner to work properly and I've tried wrapping various grades of stainless steel mesh around the outside.

However, when I was looking through that very interesting 'Guiness' thread in your link above, I noticed in post #44 that you make reference to putting the mesh *inside* the burner. Could I be doing it wrong in trying to wrap the mesh around the *outside* of the burner?

Thanks again! 

John

BTW Henner - I would be *very* interested in seeing some of the pictures of hand rail stanchions and hinges that were lost in the upgrade.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

John
Henner can add to this but usually adding screen either inside or tightly around the burner makes it burn more easily and quieter.
Putting a screen about 1/8" above the slots/holes makes the screen go radiant which makes for a quieter and more efficient burner. Nichrome lasts longer than stainless for this. Here is an article by Kevin O'Connor from the Southern trains site. There is also other informative info in this section.

http://southernsteamtrains.com/notes/radiantpokerburners.htm


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

John,
due to the small flue size of the Guinness I had to put the gaze inside. It works very well and the burner ignites easily. But be warned: What works well in one loco, completely fails in another type. This is especially true for getting rid of howling. You have to try different approaches until one of them works for you.
Regarding the use of Aluminum in the Sherline: Bed and slides are very rigid and special engineering plastic gibs take care of any slop. The only problem with my lathe was that head and tailstock did not line up perfectly, so I had to use shims. They might have solved this by now.
I will re-post some of the Guinness part fabrication threads.
Regards


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

*Making Stanchions*

I started with 1/8" 12L14 steel. At one end I made a groove with a parting tool, leaving a cube with the dimensions of the ball to be formed. I then used a clever tool (not my invention) to make the ball. It is a drill rod with a hole about 2/3 of the diameter of the ball. The outer edge is beveled for a sharp edge. It is then hardened and tempered. It is used by swiveling it back and forth around the embryo ball:








This works surprisingly fast and precise.
Next step is to turn the taper of the stanchion. I use the taper turning attachment from Sherline and made a support for the ball by drilling a hole into a piece of scrap brass and clamping it in the tool post:







The cross slide is stationary, the feed of the taper attachment is used. Now the stanchions are clamped in a fixture for cross drilling:







Finally the finished stanchions:







Regards


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

What is your preference for copper tubing: M3 or .125? 
I'm working on plans for whistle valve for my Regner Lumberjack. It uses what i'm guessing is M3 tubing, and fittings which i think used M5x.5 thread. They look nice. 
This is my first machining project. Where does one readily get fittings and supplies and such? 
I'd appreciate any pointers sent my way.
Marty

P.S. What tubing/fittings did you use on your valve?


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, I believe Jason @ the Train Department carries a full line of metric pipe fittings. Both male, female and unions in M5x.5


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Marty
I started building engines before Jason came out with a one stop destination for almost anything you would need so i had to make my own fittings which you can do if you have a lathe and a few taps and dies.
I have been using 1/16". 3/32", 1/8" and 5/32' tubing from K&S from the hobby shops but all of the copper tubing disappeared from the shelves about a year ago. I understand that it is back in some Hobby shops now. I think Jason carries it and you can get it online here but there is a $25 minimum order.
http://www.specialshapes.com/copper.html 
The thing about K&S is that it is thin wall, .014" I think, All of the sizes slip into the next larger size.
3 mm is just slightly smaller than 1/8" (.118 vs .125) so in some instances where joints are soldered, they can be interchangeable.


The 5x.5 mm fitting is the one I use the most as it is easy to make and use and is interchangeable with some of the manufacturers fittings.

*If there is any interest, I could take some photos of making fittings and post them here*


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bill,

Yes, there is interest! Thank you.

Regards,
Steve Shyvers


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill
Informative thread, thanks for the contribution to the hobby


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## boilingwater (Jan 27, 2010)

Bill,

Too bad you don't teach classes on this stuff. You'd have a lot of students. 

Thanks for posting.
Sam


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## StackTalk (May 16, 2014)

I agree with the sentiment expressed by Charles and Sam.

You are doing a great service to the hobbyist community, Bill.

I only wish more of us could contribute as well. 

Cheers,

Joe


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx Bill. I'd love to see how you make fittings. I'm a sponge at this point, taking in all i can.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks guys
I'll be making fittings for the Triplex I am building so i will try to document that process and post it here.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Here is the first fitting I made last week
I need a right angle bend coming out of the cylinder so i cut 45 degree slits with a jewelers saw









I clean it up with a needle file
http://www.harborfreight.com/needle-file-set-10-pc-69876.html
and then silver solder it









This fitting is larger than normal because of the very large Triplex bore. Ith is for 5/32" tubbing.

I start with 5/16" hex bar and drill a 5/32" hole deeper than the fitting will be. I then thread the end to 1/4-40 (1/4-28 is ok), bevel the hole with a countersink and part it off









Now I make a nut. I use the same 5/16" hex and drill 5/32 through and then drill and tap the 1/4-40 hole .200 deep

















I round off both ends for looks with the parting tool and then part it off at .250"









This fitting is just for a short stub for air testing the engine so i am using a metric o-ring as a seal. Because this is superheated, I will silver solder a ferrule on to the final piping.









And the completed fitting


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Thx Bill. Where do you get your hex stock?


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice Demo Bill...thanks for sharing!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I get my hex stock from Alan Steel, a local metal supply house but McMaster Carr carries a complete line also
http://www.mcmaster.com/


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Fair to say there are no rules when it comes to fittings, as long as you're comfortable w/ it? My little Regner Lumberjack uses M3 tubing, female nut is M6 hex threaded to M5x.5. I could use 1/8" tubing, 1/4 hex for nut, thread to M5x.5?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I try to use the 5x5 thread on most of my fittings as it is pretty standard in the hobby and is easy to thread. 
I use 1/8" tubing for most jobs. 1/8" is .125" and 3mm is .118 so they both are similar in capacity. 
6 mm is .236 vs .250 for 1/4" so again very similar. The metric material is harder to find and usually more expensive.

On the above fittings, I couldn't use the 5 mm thread as the tap diameter is .177 and the outside diameter of the 5/32 Tubing is .156 which would only allow .005 wall thickness. Thus the 1/4-40 which has a similar threads per inch to the 5x.5 mm

As I get further on in the project, I will be making very small fittings and also some bigger ones


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

I built another type of inconspicuous fittings for our donkeys:








One part of the tube is silver soldered, the other one flanged. A thin gasket is used for sealing. This is how the flange was made:








The end was peened over after annealing with a piece of drill rod. The drawings (in metric):








Regards


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I thought I would add a few things I did this week
I am working on a Cab Forward and am replacing the lubricator that feeds oil through the superheaters with a dead leg type but I need to have two individually adjustable feeds.
Ryan has done this with two valves mounted in line on the side of the frame. this works well but I wanted something a little simpler.
As the adjustments only need to be done once, I have a screwdriver slot for adjustments mounted at the lubricator
Here is the completed lube with fittings.









Next, I did a 6mm sight glass. I wanted to keep the outside dimensions as small as possible so I used a combination of metric and SAE fittings.
I drilled out the Accucraft banjo bolt side hole to 2mm and drilled it through so there are two holes. I then drilled the 5mm OD fitting to 5/32" ID and soldered a 5/32" copper tube inside it so that there is at least 1/8" inside flow throughout.


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