# Ladder roadbed and Aristo craft track



## ewaldbee (Jan 5, 2009)

I have a section of track to lay this spring that I would like to rise off the ground using the ladder system. As I am looking through the threads here it appears that the ladder system works well if you're using flex track. Build the roadbed--lay down the track to match. In my case I have sections of Aristo Craft track in various diameters from 8 ft. to 20 ft. Will I have frustrations trying to match my ladder with the fixed diameter track sections? I live in Minnesota where I don't want to drive permanent supports into the ground because of the frost problems. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Ewald


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I made concrete forms this way. Get a sheet of plywood 3/4 or better. Sub floring will do. Lay your track on the plywood. Get a box of sheet rock screws. on inch or better Lay your track on the plywood. Screw a screw every 3 inches or so right next to the tie. Do it on the outside and inside of the curve track. Now remove the track. The screws now match the curve of the track. Build the curvature of the ladder road bed to match the screws. You might want to build on the outside of the screws. gives you a little more road bed. 

JJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

To the 2 questions:

1. Yes, it will be tougher to match the ladder to your sectional track, but do it carefully and get a rail bender and it would not be an impossible task.

2. use the concrete "pilings" that are about 9" in a truncated pyramid and mount 4X4 rot resistant posts to it. Many people have done this and it works well, also easy to adjust and not permanent, easy to move.

Greg


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Take all the screws out of the back of the track, then you will be able to move your track quite abit, I use a double rail bender, one of the best investment I made for my railroad, I only buy straight track, 
Dennis


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## ewaldbee (Jan 5, 2009)

Thanks guys for the good ideas. I never considered a rail bender. I assumed they were only used for non sectional track laying. 
Ewald


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I made my whole layout on ladder roadbed using various types of sectional track bought over a few years. I have the Train Li rail bender, so you can make the sectional, either curved or straight, any reasonable curve you want. Takes a bit of practice, but works well. 

Jerry


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

ewaldbee said:


> Thanks guys for the good ideas. I never considered a rail bender. I assumed they were only used for non sectional track laying.
> Ewald



If you buy a Dual Rail Bender you can then buy ANY rail deal you find. With a Dual Rail Bender You could take a 4 FT curve and bend it to anything you want including a Straight piece. My rail bender does not go over the Aristo style slide type joiners. So I keep a bag or Split Jaw or the Flat Train Li Joiners around. It is well worth the investment. 

JJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

for your curves, leave at least one screw on each rail in the curve to keep the ties from migrating. If you are only modifying the curves a bit, leave all the screws in.

The gauge of Aristo track (especially sectional track) is controlled by the SCREWS not the "spikes".... take a look at how far away from the rail the "spikes" are. 

Greg


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## ewaldbee (Jan 5, 2009)

Greg Elmassian said:


> for your curves, leave at least one screw on each rail in the curve to keep the ties from migrating. If you are only modifying the curves a bit, leave all the screws in.
> 
> The gauge of Aristo track (especially sectional track) is controlled by the SCREWS not the "spikes".... take a look at how far away from the rail the "spikes" are.
> 
> Greg


Thanks for the heads up.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)




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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

I also used Aristo sectional track and flex track. I put the sectional track on the ground and then marked the center line about 12 inches apart for curves 18 inches for straights using plastic garden stakes. Used a bulb auger to drill down about 18-24 inches then put in PVC pipe. Put on side pieces of ladder and managed to match the track to the ladder fairly close. Can pull the pipe easier than solid supports


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## ewaldbee (Jan 5, 2009)

fyrekop said:


> I also used Aristo sectional track and flex track. I put the sectional track on the ground and then marked the center line about 12 inches apart for curves 18 inches for straights using plastic garden stakes. Used a bulb auger to drill down about 18-24 inches then put in PVC pipe. Put on side pieces of ladder and managed to match the track to the ladder fairly close. Can pull the pipe easier than solid supports


I like the idea of using the PVC as a temporary support system. I have been warned about leaving supports permanently buried up here in Minnesota for frost reasons. Did you bend the half assembled ladder around the PVC keeping the PVC on the inside of the curves? I was thinking of using 2 inch PVC for the final support posts once grade has been established. I would rest the 2 in. PVC on the ground surface.
Ewald


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

I used 2" PVC pipe as supports then ripped TREX decking in half to form the ladder rails. Digital level to set the grade and screwed TREX into the pipes then trimmed the top of the pipes. I think I have photos http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-t...oadbed/25868-beginner-s-site-southern-az.html


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## ewaldbee (Jan 5, 2009)

I looked back at your pictures from 2013. It's really helpful to actually see the way you built your ladder. I'm concerned about leaving the PVC in the ground because of the frost problems we have here. I was thinking I could drive re-bar in the ground temporarily to support curves. Then I would use the PVC as you did only I would just set them on the ground and cut off the tops after the grade was set. After back filling I would pull the re bar.


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