# Sticking LGB switches



## Camanoyard60 (Feb 6, 2014)

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get my LGB switches to move smoothly. After sitting out all winter I have a couple of them that won't slide smoothly even when I try to manually move them. I don't see anything wrong with them just that they are stiff.

Thank you.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

remove the switch motor, and clean/blow out dust and dirt... cycle the switch while moving it.... compressed air, or in worst case water...

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Assuming that the motor is still getting power and just jambed up, _you don't want to remove the switch motor if you don't have too_. Removing a motor that has been in service in a wet environment for years is asking for other problems (e.g., corrosion in the wires and terminals) when you go to reinstall it. For example, you can easily strip out the heads of the wire terminals because they corrode in-place over time.

If it is just jambed up, remove the cover and look inside for dirt/mud/whatever is interfering with the throw. There are many ferrous parts in there that will rust up. Sometimes the linear gear will jump teeth and the motor may "bottom out" to one side and not throw fully to the other. This will be evident when you open it up.

When you reset/recenter the linear gear, center the linear gear in its throw on the round gear (tab facing up) while you center the point rails on the turnout so that the gear and rails can both throw fully to both sides.

Also, make sure that the area under the throw bar is clear. You can get debris under the bar that interferes with its movement.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Where do you live?

When I lived in Colorado I had a number of the LGB electric switch motors hooked up and I didn't have any problems. When I moved to Virginia, I put them in my new layout. It wasn't long before they stopped working. I opened them up and discovered that they were full of mud/dirt, and ant nests. All of the iron based parts inside were rusty. I gave up on them and now have simple manual spring throws.

Dry climate good; wet, humid, damp climate bad.

Chuck

We are assuming that you are asking about the LGB electric switch motors. If it is the switch itself, check the space under the plastic throw around that moves when you throw the switch, as suggested by Todd. If is the manual switch throw, open it up and look for gunk.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

First thing I do when the switch motor slows down is to check the switch for being level and the epl throw and the switch points to be free of any debris.
Sometimes it is the switch so taking the drive apart will not fix this and fixing the switch first is easier.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The first thing to do is unscrew the switch mechanism from the switch. That should held to determine if the problem is with the switch or the throw mechanism.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

that was my idea in post #2, isolate where it is. If things are rusted or corroded, you want to repair/replace.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Also note that 16 to 16 volts works much better than 12 volts.
I also use the LGB booster on mine.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good advice, but the problem at hand is working switches went non working after the winter.

So, now we will wait and see what the issue was.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, I mentioned the voltage as the EPL drive will work when new on lower voltages, but get sluggish after aging. Taking one apart will not fix a low voltage issue.
Same thing can occur with a voltage drop in the wiring.


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## Camanoyard60 (Feb 6, 2014)

*Sticking LGB switches.*

Thank you to all that replied about my sticking switches but the problem is with the switch itself not the motors. The switch sticks even when I move it manually. There are no rocks or debris causing it to stick it just won't slide easily.

Thank you again for any help or ideas


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Have you flushed out the space between the sliding plastic bar holding the points and the fixed plastic plate under it with compressed air or a stream of water?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

post #2...


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Camanoyard60 said:


> Thank you to all that replied about my sticking switches but the problem is with the switch itself not the motors. The switch sticks even when I move it manually. There are no rocks or debris causing it to stick it just won't slide easily.
> 
> Thank you again for any help or ideas



Look for:

1) Debris at the "hinge." Other than the turnout motor "jumping teeth on the linear gear," I find this to be the #1 cause of a turnout not functioning properly. Ballast/debris wedges in between the hinge/point rail and keeps the point rail for throwing all the way/at all.

2) Debris between the throw bar and area under it. There is a plastic "web" under the throwbar and material gets lodged between the web and the throwbar. Remove the "diamond plate" cover (pry it off using a flat blade screwdriver alternating from side-to-side) and make sure this area is free of debris.

3) Debris/ballast around the turnout that the throwbar hits to keep it from moving all the way. You can get stuff in the two ties around the throwbar and next to the turnout that get in the way ofthe bar.

4) The tie with the brass strips (second tie from the end) has cracked/broken and this is now letting the point rail sag. Trains will "bump" on this and it can cause derailments. Put something "solid" under this area to support the broken tie and re-elevate the point rail into position. 

Also, while you are servicing the turnouts, take a small flat screwdriver and scrape any mineral deposts from the point rails where they nestle into the stock rails and make sure that there is no gap between these rails to catch a wheel.


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