# Adding Radio Control kit to a Ruby



## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

I have just bought a new Accucraft Ruby with the upgraded cylinders and am trying to fit an RC steamers R/C kit to it.
I have found that the newer model Rubt appears to have a shorter throttle shaft than the older ones.
The instructions with the R/C kit show a long shaft and mine is about 1.5" shorter.
Has anybody heard of this issue and know if there is a shaft extension available to let me fit the R/C kit?


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Did you check with accucraft? Perhaps you could procure a throttle there which would be longer like you need.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Got any info on the RC kit and and where purchased? Later RJD


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

They sell a mounting bracket and servos only, on Feebay for $80. 

PS: I have no experience with it, but have been Eying for My ruby. Keep us posted on your install. We like pictures!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Did you check with accucraft 

Email Cliff at Accucraft and ask him if he has an old shaft and if it will fit. clifftech.accucraft (at) gmail.com


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

I was thinking, you could also remove the plastic knob and then find some brass tube that has the same ID as the shaft. Then solder your control arm to one end and use some JB weld, or better yet if the tube is thick walled enough, add a set screw to it and slide over the old throttle shaft.


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Call Cliff at Accucraft he'll have one.

This is the easiest way to do it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/R-C-Conversion-...500wt_1156


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

The kit I bought came from this seller on EBay. 

R/C Conversion Kit for Accucraft Ruby Live Steam Engine 
Item Id: 250782828284 
End time: 02-Jun-11 03:00:25 AEST 
Seller: 
cenright (304) 
100.0% Positive Feedback 
Member since 02-Dec-99 in United States 
Location: CA, United States 

Cost was $106 US + postage 
It comes complete with servos, pushrobs, all mounting hardware etc. 
The seller has been giving me some great support with my issue as well.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's the pic of the throttle linkage: 











The seller is going to have to 'improve' his kit for the latest generation of the Ruby. Accucraft ships all their locos with a black plastic knob these days, I think. So you should be able to get him to help.

I haven't checked the Ruby but I assume it gets the same treatment. Most Accucraft throttles have a flat on them for the knob set screw to grip. I've had some success installing arms and gears on the throttle shaft. 










As mentioned above, find a brass tube that is a snug fit over the throttle (you can just see it behind the sprocket above.) I have attached them using a small (00-90) bolt through the shaft to stop any spinning.

Then you need an arm - most servos come with a selection (and I have some spares if you get desperate,) so the seller might have one or two to offer you. Attach the arm to the tube somehow or other (or get the seller to fabricate one for you.)

_Tell the seller that ALL the guys on MLS are waiting to see what kind of solution he comes up with to fix his kit for the latest Ruby. That should get his attention!







_


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

A company called Electronic Model Systems made what appears to be the same bracket and servos. Web www.rc-steamers.com 

When I bought my kit from them, they were selling the "horns" in case your Ruby had the knobs. Mine was an older one with the horns so I did not need them, but a place to get some if you want them.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Batsco on 06 May 2011 04:57 PM 
I have just bought a new Accucraft Ruby with the upgraded cylinders and am trying to fit an RC steamers R/C kit to it.
I have found that the newer model Rubt appears to have a shorter throttle shaft than the older ones.
The instructions with the R/C kit show a long shaft and mine is about 1.5" shorter.
Has anybody heard of this issue and know if there is a shaft extension available to let me fit the R/C kit?



Why dont you just bend the wire to adjust for the difference in the placement. I normally use SS music wire or brass depending on what I have. Bending the wire is no problem it also gives you a little bit of movement if you close the throttle too hard with the servo.


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

Ironton, The kit I have have bought is the r-c steamers kit and I have a horn, the kit looks exactly the same as the picture in Petes post its just that the throttle shaft on the Ruby is not that same as in the picture. With the horn fitted as in the picture it hits the gas pipe I have mounted it more perpendicular to clear the pipe. 

Pete, The seller is just selling the kit and is not the manufacturer, but I am getting some very good support from him, he said that he has never seen a Ruby like mine and even suggested that it may be a production error because the throttle knod is right inside tha cab when it is fitted which makes it extremely hard to reach when it is running, hence the idea of R/C. 

Kovacjr, I thought about bending the wire bit was not sure if it would be rigid enough to to operate the throttle without bending. 
The seller has also suggested bending the wire and is sending me a longer piece of wire and a couple of E/Z connectors. 

I have pictures of the Ruby but don't know how to put them on here, they would go a long way to explaining everything. 

Graeme Price 
Bomaderry NSW 
Australia


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

he said that he has never seen a Ruby like mine 
Graeme, 
Let's start at the beginning - which Ruby do you have? Their are at least 5 versions, and #5 is nothing like #1-4. 

The seller is just selling the kit and is not the manufacturer 

OK, but as Accucraft changed all the Rubys to a plastic knob, the kit is going to have to be modified. Your seller needs to put some pressure on the manufacturer.

The instructions with the R/C kit show a long shaft and mine is about 1.5" shorter. 
1.5" is a bit much to cover with a bent wire! The whole throttle can't be more than 1.5" - so can you be more explicit? 

I have pictures of the Ruby 
Send me a PM ('Send Message' link in left column) with your real email address and I'll reply, so you can email me the pics and I will post them.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

The newest Rubys do come with a plastic knob instead of with the control arm. Once i can obtain the kit it should not be to much to fabricate a way to use the control arm. Later RJD


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

I have the new version (#5)  of the ruby.  I would say that the throttle knob (yes the black plastic one)  is much further in the cab than past versions. I think he will need some sort of shaft extension to use that servo mount. Possibly one could reverse the servo in the bracket so the control arm was between the boiler and bracket the would move the wire forward significantly.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the new version (#5) of the ruby. I would say that the throttle knob (yes the black plastic one) is much further in the cab than past versions 
Randy, 
I wondered about the #5. That Ruby is totally different from the other Rubys, and may even have a different boiler (and throttle location.) 

I'm sure Richard won't mind me re-posting his photo of the comparison - this is a Ruby #1 with a WuHu Porter, which is very close in size and shape to a Ruby #5.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Pete, 
Below are some better pics from the side of mine for comparison against older models. I would not say it is completely different, but it has definitely had some changes. Things that I notice are the new larger and painted cylinders. Brace on the bend in reach rod to reverser piston. Shorter shaft on the throttle. New round gas tank. I would say the boiler is basically the same but there is no placard on the back anymore only the side. The mounting hole for the gas tank was drilled or stamped too far back on my deck plate. I had to drill anew one to even get near close enough to connect the burner tube. I may still need to move it forward a hair, as you can see that the burner valve/shaft is still not parallel to the locomotive. I definitely want to ad R/C to this loco once it gets a cosmetic make over. I'd like to make the tender house as many of the components as I can. I'd even like to go as far as some type of axle water pump if possible.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 09 May 2011 11:36 AM 
I'm sure Richard won't mind me re-posting his photo of the comparison - this is a Ruby #1 with a WuHu Porter, which is very close in size and shape to a Ruby #5.









No problem re-posting the photo, but the #5 Ruby actually is just a standard Ruby dressed up as a Porter, so it's much larger than the WuHu engine. I managed to get a side-by-side comparison of the WuHu Porter and a #5 Ruby at Dave Barker's steamup last summer... 










Sorry for the blurry image, unfortunately, that was the only broadside view I got of the two of them together.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

For those of us that don't have the foggiest notion as to which one is which, could you please identify which one is which?


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 11 May 2011 12:04 PM 
For those of us that don't have the foggiest notion as to which one is which, could you please identify which one is which? 
In the first pic (that Pete posted) it's a standard (2006-era kit-built) Ruby on the left, WuHu Porter on the right. In the second pic, it's the WuHu Porter on the left, and the Ruby #5 (Porter) variant on the right.

Of course I could just make it really confusing...


















Left-to-right: Porters by WuHu, Wrightscale, Accucraft (Ruby #5), and Maxwell Hemmens.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Of course I could just make it really confusing 
Nice one Richard! Thanks for clearing it up.


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

My Ruby #1 is exactly the same as the one Nutz-n-Bolts has shown in his pictures. It is the newest model with the larger cylinders. 
The R/C kit is supposed to mount onto the timber buffer beam and the throttle horn is supposed to be directly above the servo arm that points outwards. 
If a horn is fitted instead of the knob then the gas to burner pipe is in the way and fouls the throttle horn which binds against it thus restricting its movement. 
The new throttle shaft is approx 1.5" (37mm) shorter than the old ones fitted to earlier models.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

then the gas to burner pipe is in the way and fouls the throttle horn which binds against it thus restricting its movement. 


Batsco, Is the pipe you refer to the housing for the vale shaft, or the pipe carrying the gas down to the burner? In either case, do they interfere because of the orientation of the gas tank? Is the tank rotated so that the vale shat is no parallel to the boiler? This was the case with mine because the mounting hole for the tank was in the wrong place on the deck plate I had to drill a new one further forward. In my fist picture you can see it is still not quite right. Here is link to the thread about it: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/11/aft/118116/afv/topic/Default.aspx



Secondly, Because of the short steam throttle shaft, could you not spin the servo around in the mounting bracket so the horn is between the bracket and boiler? This will move it forward quite a bit, but may be too much. I'm not sure if there would be clearance.

Sorry for all the rapid fire questions just want to make sure of the causes and what options we may have to get things corrected.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Batsco sent me a bunch of photos, so here's the scoop.

The instructions with his kit show this (the same as I posted on page 1):












Here's the problem. His new Ruby #1 has a short shaft:











And another way of looking at it: 











My solution would be to remove the throttle shaft, take off the O-ring, and solder a shaft extension onto the existing short shaft using a brass tubing sleeve.

But as the vendor has to solve this problem for all future sales, I would hope he will step up and provide the required extension piece.


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## SoCalJimH (Dec 9, 2009)

Looks like the issue might be solved with a piece of heavy gauge wire and 2x 90 degree bends. No rules that says the transfer bar/wire has to be straight. Just has to transfer the motion.


OR

Just use the J-Bar and servo to control the direction and speed. Works great with the Acc. Shay's and I know a few steamer's who did this and I currently have it on my 2 cyl Shay. Works great on my 3-4% grades There was a prior thread on MLS regarding the subject. It maybe in that R/C kit's instruction but regarding the transmitter- you will have to remove the 'centering' springs on the toggle on the channel for the servo. (otherwise, as soon as you toggle "accelerate', it will return to center and the engine will stop)



FYI- I built my Ruby from kit also about 12 months ago and it has the same 'short throttle" issue so this problem has been out there for at least a year.


Good Luck,


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I ordered the servo kit so we shall see. Sounds like a lot of variations where out there and I lucked out and got one that still had the longer throttle shaft. Later RJD


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## jmvedrine (May 28, 2010)

Hello,


To solve the horn bashing pipping iussue :









you can cut the horn just after the first hole (or if it's not enought drill a new hole and make it even shorter, a very small lever is working with no problem)


And as Jim and others says, you can also bend the transfer bar/wire, see this picture from Dave Hottmannn :







Jean-Michel Vedrine St Etienne - France


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm still in favor of adding a bit of rod to make the throttle longer, so the kit will fit.


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

Just call Cliff @ Accucraft and see what he can do for you, looks like you got one that is just a little bit wonky and Cliff is wonderful about fixing these kind of things. You might have to send him some photos so he will understand what you need but he has always been very helpful for me.


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

As was suggested I sent an email with pictures Cliff atAccucraft (email to clifftech.accucraft @ gmail.com) on 8th May 2011 but have not heard anything, maybe because I am in Australia and can't ring up easily that I might be a low priority and will eventually hear something.

I am a bit overwhelmed by the responses and suggestion to what I thought might be a simple fix, thank you to all.

Graeme


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Gordon Watson sells Accucraft in Australia maybe he could support you in this matter.


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

Unfortunately because I bought this loco on E Bay (taking advantage of the Aust / US dollar parity exchange rate), I am not getting any support from Accucraft dealers in Aust.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Hey Batsco, How about just extending the wire as some have suggested, but throw a brace across the corner? It would be very easy to grab a small piece of bras strip, trim it and solder it to the wire. I looks like there is room for the gusset to float in and if it doesn't work, you are only out a half hour and $1.00 of materials. Keep us posted.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

A moderately stiff wire with a bend in it will work just fine. I always put an "S" or "Z" bend in the wire from the servo horns to the Throttle and Reverser lever so that there is some springiness to it. This relieves the stress on the servo if the control lever reaches a physical limit before the servo reaches the driven setting.

Setting the Throttle and Reverser levers is not an EXACTing type of thing anyway...

"Closed", "Open", "Widened", and "To the roof" are generalizations of Throttle settings, where "Closed" and "To the Roof" meaning "as far as it will go in that direction". You "Open" the Throttle to make it go, "Widen" it to make it go faster, "put it to the roof" to make it go as fast as it will go, and "Close" it to stop.

"Centered", "In the corner", "Notching Up" and "Company Notch" are generalizations for the Reverser setting, where "In the Corner" meaning as far as it will go in either Forward or Reverse, and "Centered" being the only one that has some need to be kind of "Close" in order to produce the desired effect. You put the Reverser "in the corner" (in the direction you want to go) to get started and then you "Notch Up" to reduce steam consumption after you are moving, and put it in the "Company Notch" for maximum fuel and steam savings. Set it to "Center" to reduce the possibility of the engine moving if the Throttle should leak while you are parked waiting for a signal to proceed. On some engines, depending on the amount of lead and lap, the locomotive can continue to move if the Reverser is set to neutral or Centered if the Throttle is open! If the engine is sitting still it could go either way if the Throttle is opened and the reverser is "Centered", depending on the position of the wheels when it stopped!

NOTE: if you have a steamer that does not have "true valve gear", (i.e.: the Reverser only changes the direction of steam flow TO the cylinder valves, instead of changing the timing of the cylinder valves... like a lot of the Accucraft engines, like the Ruby) then all that talk about "Notching Up" and "Company Notch" does NOT apply. Also, with the non-realistic reversing method, the reverser lever is like an additional "Throttle" in series with the main Throttle. All you really need is one servo on the "faux-Reverser" and none on the main throttle. Manually open the main throttle and then use the setting of the "Faux-reverser" to vary the amount of steam being passed to the cylinder valves. Unfortunately, it would probably be hard to control well since the Reverser valve does not have anything close to a "fine adjustment" capability (i.e.: small change in position results in large change in steam flow). I helped a fellow with his Ruby where the "Faux-reverser" valve was missadjusted such that when set as far as it would go in Forward there was less steam flowing due to the valve going too far and covering the internal ports with the back side of the piston.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I am in Australia and can't ring up easily that I might be a low priority 
I don't think Cliff has geographic 'priorities'. He is occasionally out of the office, so I have heard complaints of occasional slow service. I've never had any problems.


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

Good Morning all I now have a solution to my throttle shaft problem. 

A workmate is into making large scale steam enginge and he turned up an extension for me from a plan the I sketched. 

I have photos of the extension and a pdf file with the extension plan but still can't fathom out how to put it into here. 

Thanks for all the advice it was greatly appreciated I now have a wealth of knowledge about controlling the thing using the servos. 

Thanks to Pete Thornton for putting my pictures on the forum . 

I think I will send the extension plan to the EBay seller and the Manufacturer highlighting the possible need for them to supply the extension as an optional extra. 

Additionally I did notice that in the pictures of the older Rubys the gas tank was square but mine is round and the piping was different so maybe Accucraft have changed the configuration to cut costs.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I just finished mine up today and man how nice it does work. Took the spring out of the DS6I for the throttle and works really smooth. Also the reversing leverl works very nice. No major ajustments needed. Now the fun begins. Later RJD


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

but still can't fathom out how to put it into here. 
You need to be a 1st class member - that's gives you web space and the ability to upload your photos, etc. 

Send 'em to me and I'll post them.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Like anything else they are always doin up dates whether good or bad. Mine just happened to work with the kit as intended. Later RJD


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I have photos of the extension and a pdf file with the extension plan but still can't fathom out how to put it into here. 
Maybe if you joined MLS . . .









[/i]
Here's the photos Graeme took of his beautifully engineered throttle arm extension.





























The .PDF file showing the drawings for the throttle extension are * (click) here. *Dimensions are metric, of course.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice looking conversion. Later RJD


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

So now it is onward and upward! 
I have sorted out the wiring for the receiver (RX), servos and batteries, that was the easy part. 
I am running a tender with the batteries and RX fitted in there and all I have to do is run 4 wires to the loco to control and power the 2 servos. 
Thank you all for the advice and the welcome, for a first timer it really impressed me.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Bastsco: Here is what I did for the receiver and battery. Car was only $10 and then I rounded up stuff from the scrap box. Later RJD


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

I like it. Very easy and cheap way to do it.


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