# Accucraft Ablaßhahn f. Öler / Drain Cock f. Lubricator & Teflon Wire



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I was looking for a C-19 pic (to find out what number my engine used to be) and Google found me the eBay shop of MBV Schug - othewrwise known as Accucraft DE/Germany. They had a couple of interesting parts I haven't seen in the USA store.

1. Drain Cock










*You are bidding on a brand new Drain Cock for all Accucraft Live Steam Locomotives. It is easy to change 
agains the original srew on the bottom of the Lubricator and allows a better operation under steam. No 
modifacation necessary.

* 
Despite the "you are bidding" bit, it seems to be a 'buy it now' price of 23 Euros plus 12 euro shipping - doesn't seem excessive.

This would solve the problem off the original screw version clobbering all the details behind it on some of the newer complicated locos, like EBT #12.

2. Teflon Wire, 0.5mm diameter

*For sale is a brand new Teflon Wire with a outside diameter of 0.5 mm in black, the ideal choice 
for all Live Steamers who want to fit electric headlights or something else to there locos. This cable 
is extremely robust, highly flexible, excellent insulation resistance and temperature resistant from 
-200 to +200 degrees Celsius. The price is for two meter of this cable*

7 Euros plus 6 Euro shipping.


Copy this link to your browser address bar:
stores.ebay.com/Live-Steam-and-Electric-Trains/_i.html?_fsub=2081693018


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, 
35 Euro is about $47, excessive in my view for a brass valve. These little valves have been around for a long time and I have them on my K-28 and K-27. I got them here in the states for about $10 each. Several dealers have them. I got some of mine from PR Research in NY while at Cabin Fever.


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## Anthony Duarte (Dec 27, 2007)

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Posted By weaverc on 08 Dec 2011 02:20 PM 
I got some of mine from PR Research in NY while at Cabin Fever. 


Perhaps you mean PM Research?
http://www.pmresearchinc.com/


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## deltatrains (Nov 25, 2010)

*That little valve comes already on the Accucraft 0-10-0 Saxony and DB engines which were commissioned by MBVSHUG de., and is really great when it comes time to clear out pressure from the boiler and the condensed water from the lubricator at the end of a run. Ordering it from Europe is definitely an expensive way to go. It is much easier to operate than the little screw type plug with the two little metal stubs pressed into the sides. The hobby is evolving for the better. Eventually all of our little steamers will come with all the proper goodies on it direct from the factory, or at least give us the option to have them installed from the start at factory costs not the horrendous aftermarket costs. All the Best, Peter.*


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

Perhaps you mean PM Research? 
http://www.pmresearchinc.com/ 

Do you know a part name or part number on PMResearch's web site? Also, is the part you used a direct replacement for the AC screw-in "valve", or are there some mods needed? 

Thanks.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By deltatrains on 08 Dec 2011 08:56 PM 
*That little valve comes already on the Accucraft 0-10-0 Saxony and DB engines which were commissioned by MBVSHUG de., and is really great when it comes time to clear out pressure from the boiler and the condensed water from the lubricator at the end of a run. Ordering it from Europe is definitely an expensive way to go. It is much easier to operate than the little screw type plug with the two little metal stubs pressed into the sides. The hobby is evolving for the better. Eventually all of our little steamers will come with all the proper goodies on it direct from the factory, or at least give us the option to have them installed from the start at factory costs not the horrendous aftermarket costs. All the Best, Peter.* 
Hi Peter,
Not that I disagree with your sentiment, BUT the downside to all these goodies will be the increase in price, even if not really justified.
Also the more fittings, the more chance for leaks and things giving problems.
I'm all for keeping it simple. 
As far as lubricator drains, back in the good old days (70's) I modified my early Asters with drains, and whilst they work very well, I found that I was just dumping oily water on my track, when it was just as easy to 'suck' out the water with something. 
Merry Christmas,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you know a part name or part number on PMResearch's web site?I have the same question. Accucraft uses M5 x 0.5 threads, and I didn't see any globe valves on their website that were metric.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Searched net prettty thoroughly, could find nothing metric except Regner and they do noot have drain cocks in their catalog only globe valves of the wrong type/specs. Could be wrong on who, but I think J. Kling soldered a globe valve w/pipe connect to the Accucraft hex nut.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

soldered a globe valve w/pipe connect to the Accucraft hex nut 
Might be quicker and cheaper just to buy one from MBV Schug. I bet Ralph Reppingen has some too.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

A solution to the Accucraft drain nut versus buying a drain cock or globe valve (and finding metric thread.) Make a small wrench using a brass or copper pipe with an ID = hex nut OD. Cut wedge, bend and solder as shown below. It fits over the Accucraft hex nut and pins. Optional, for a grip put a silicone tub on the handle portion - RED so it's easy to find in your tool box.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The problem with the orignal drain on many new locos is that they have it positioned where the detail parts are in the way from it even opening or closing easy. The DSP 191/51 is just one example as is the Caledonia. You cant open the valve without bending a pipe out of the way. Being it is just glied in it will break not far into service. With many being metered now you can no longer suck out the oil. I guess Im lucky that all my locos are basically a shelf queen as running seems to be not too often with the one local track moving to MD.


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## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

The Teflon insulated wire is indeed a nice choice for live steamers as the temperature rating is within demands of our application. No need to order from Europe, however, as most electrical distributors will have this available in small rolls (25 or 50 feet)....a google search will yeild numerous sources.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

they have it positioned where the detail parts are in the way 
Same with EBT #12. Lotsa pipes behind it that had to be moved to make the existing drain work. So a special tool is no help.


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## jmkling (Jan 2, 2008)

Wire Wrap wire is still available and has a teflon coating, works great for LED lighting, just do a search on wire wrap wire. Radio Shack used to have, but I am sure Jamco also has it.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Jon,

The Kynar insulated wire wrap wire I've found shows the insulation good for 221 degrees only.
Does that stand up to our application/useage?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Despite all the opinions and help offered, no-one came up with a US alternative to the globe valve - the metric threads aren't common here. Cutting the existing one and silver soldering a US globe valve was/is the best alternative. So I ordered myself one for my birthday - I'll let you know how it works out.

I was looking around MBV Schugs website the find it [it's not there - only on the eBay site] and found a fun selection of whistles:










Whoa - neat stuff! Even some nice finger valves:


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, I couldn't find the whistles on ebay--got a link? Only thing I located was the black whistle valve. 

Larry


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I couldn't find the whistles on ebay--got a link? 
Larry, 

The whistles are only on their website - accucraft.de (http://www.accucraft.de/Produkte/Zubehor/Dampfpfeifen/dampfpfeifen.html) and the valves are only on eBay. Go figure. If that link doesn't work, go to the .de site, pick 1:20.3 and then look at the bottom right column for "dampfpfeifen". 

I got a shipment notification today - but I realised my loco has two valves. Maybe the blowdown needs to be the easier to open - it gets hot!


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The Whistles are available from Bruce Engineering along with the red whistle valve. I have the 3 chime somewhere in my parts collection. It is also a 5/32 steam feed and does require a decent amount of steam to sound good.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Re valve, Coles offers something similar, but not with a metric thread. If you have a lathe, you can possibly turn down and re-thread, or make an adapter.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Coles offers something similar, but not with a metric thread. 
Ray, 

That's the issue. By the time I've bought a Coles valve, chopped it and the existing valve so they mate, and silver-soldered them together (I don't have a lathe) it becomes worthwhile ordering one from Schug. Besides, its my birthday soon and I wanted to give my kids something to buy me!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

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It's the day before the Scranton steam-up and I was packing the goodies for the trip when a big envelope turned up from Germany by Luftpost. It was full of thick glossy flyers (in german) for Saxonians and DB 45 010 locos. I finally found a tiny bag with a little valve in it. So off came the screw-type blow-down and on went the new globe valve.











I've commented before on the 'detail stuff' blocking the out-of-scale steam fittings. This was no different - I had to take the valve apart to get it on the hex extension without fouling the air tank. (You might see a pipe behind - that's the [dummy] water feed to the injector, and it should be in front where the tender pipe would meet it.) There's just no way if I'm going to use the valve.

Anyway, here's the fun I had putting it back together.












A quick swipe of black paint and it is a lot less visible .

_ Now to finish painting the engineer before I pack for Scranton . . _

P.S. This is my first post using Chrome, and I'm getting lots of @import rubbish. This is the third edit to delete them - another seems to pop up each time.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

So off came the screw-type blow-down and on went the new globe valve. 
I was browsing the Accucraft eStore the other day and found they are now selling the valve domestically. 

AP-21613 DRAIN COCK http://www.accucraftestore.com/index.php?productID=1385 [ www dot accucraftestore.com/index.php?productID=1385 ] $25 (and no overseas shipping!) 

I have to say that I removed the drain cock and put the old one back after the first attempt to steam up ! It leaks water even before things get hot. 
There are two problems. No obvious pressure on the valve seat to keep it seated, and no mechanism to stop the nut working loose as you turn it on/off. The seating of the valve (a cone) may not be perfect - I plan to lap it in with a bit of metal polish. Then I will try a fiber or rubber washer to put some pressure on it. 

Quite disappointing.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have similar valves as cylinder cocks on my Stuart turner D-10 tugboat engine. they do tend to loosen up but seem to hold steam pressure fine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

they do tend to loosen up but seem to hold steam pressure fine 

Eric, 
I bet they are proper globe valves with a seat of some material. These are just a cone in a conical hole, with a hole through the cone to let whatever out. 

P.S. Do you make Kayaks as well? The guy in the next seat on the plane recognised your name on the SitG article about W&W #9 (reading over my shoulder, I guess.) Or was that not you?


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## roadranger (Jan 6, 2008)

I got my drain valve(s) from Accucraft USA, and found I had to Locktite the nut holding the valve together, and Locktite the entire valve into the bottom of the lubricator. 
Now that those fixes are accomplished, it is a very handy accessory to have on the engines. Open the drain valve, crack the throttle open a bit and woosh! - the lubricator is empty. 
Continue to leave the throttle open, and soon all of the boiler pressure is gone, and you can take the top cap off and water fill the boiler.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Pete-- 

I guess I missed your post of a couple of weeks back! 

My tugboat's cylinder cocks are the cone in cone type as you have. Mind you I do not tend to use the tug as frequently as the trains but they have served well enough. I am sure they came from the Stuart turner catalog of the day 1994 (ish) 

your seat mate was correct, I design kayak kits for a "living." my own website for the kayaks is http://www.shearwater-boats.com 
here is the link to my tugboat http://shearwater-boats.com/opermodl.html


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I rebuilt it again with a fiber washer to keep the pressure on the taper, and it now seems to work.


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## kleinbahn (Sep 21, 2010)

Posted By Phippsburg Eric on 24 Apr 2012 05:44 AM 
Pete-- 


your seat mate was correct, I design kayak kits for a "living." my own website for the kayaks is http://www.shearwater-boats.com 
here is the link to my tugboat http://shearwater-boats.com/opermodl.html 

Amazingly, there are a few wood boat/Maine two foot nuts in the world.


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