# USAT NW-2



## sdl39fan (Jul 31, 2011)

Other than Greg's site are there any reviews of the USAT NW-2? 

If not then I am curious to hear from those that own or more. Has anyone converted one to R/C and on-board battery? 

Thanks

Michael


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Like my other USA engines, they tend to crack their gears under load. Also, don't add much weight or pull too big a load or you can burn out the motor windings (been there done that and they don't give a T-shirt).


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael, they're great runners. I converted mine to battery. We have one running on the layout at Childrens Hospital under extreme conditions and have had to replace the motor blocks occasionally. Biggest problem is the heat built-up which causes the contact wires that ride on the axles to either burn off or literally cut a groove thru the axle before burning off.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jim, did you guys remove the sliders? 

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi 

I have the cow and calf. 

They have been great runners. 

They are quiet runners. 

On a level run, we pulled 20-30 coal cars with no issues. 

I would definently buy them again knowing how they have done for me. 

Randy


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

I have 5 if you count the calfs...2 sets of cow n calf plus one more cow. All are airwire with phoenix sound and I do take the sliders out. In fact I gut all the electronics. My only wish would have been for them to have the fan powered smoke, which I would have kept..I don't use the smoke unit that came with them.Sooo other than the smoke unit they are as good as any other I've owned from USA Trains...which is why I have 5. One nice bit to think about is that they really fit a small RR well. As much as I like -9s and all the 6 axle stuff these look much better pulling the 30 car trains I run. I need to win the lottery soon so I can move to a 2 acre lot


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have had mine for many years. I did remove the sliders. It has been used primarily for its intended purpose, which is switching my yard and industries. When I want to move a long string of cars, I double head it with the S-4 like the prototype would.


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

No we did not remove the sliders.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Had mine for a year now. Run it fairly regularly, on a small loop and it looks good, as I can't run bigger diesels. No touble so far. Run track power with TE control. Would like to convert to battery in future, that and my BM shay are first on the list for the conversion. (Love locos with MU plugs..)
I do like the smoke despite its rather lazy curlling out. It and my AC C-16 are my best smokers for when kids and adults visit the layout. All in all I would get another and now looking for rog Grande calf to go with it.

Jerry


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

I had an NW-2 which I painted and lettered for the CNR. It was a very handsome and smooth running switcher. It was originally converted to battery power and radio control using two NiMH battery packs and an Aristo-Craft, 75 MHz receiver. Later the two battery packs were replaced with a lithium-ion pack. Years later when I got an S-4 for Christmas, a friend bought my NW-2 which he runs to this day. Well maybe not to this day, it’s cold up here.

I am currently converting a friend’s NW-2 to battery power using an Aristo-Craft, lithium-ion battery pack, Revolution receiver, and a (non) Plug and Play Board. This looks like it will be a much easier installation than my original one. Like Larry I gut the factory electronics as the battery switch and receiver control the battery pack, charging plug, motors, lights, and sound (if installed). I also change the light bulbs out to LEDs.

I have the same complaints as I do about most of my USA Trains diesels.

Small, fragile plastic loops for the coupler cut bars which I replace with brass ones when they break.

Split axle sleeves on the motor pinion gears which I repair with monofilament fishing line and CA until the replacement parts arrive.

UGH-LY track sliders!

Slip-on connectors that never remain tightly fastened on the motor blocks pins. I remove all the motor block wiring and solder the wires directly to the motor terminals. The wires go directly to the receiver. Yes I have to open the hood to remove the motor block wires, but it’s only held on with four screws.

Installing those tiny springs that hold the cab doors closed. The fragile door hinge pins that the shear off when you try to install those damn little springs. In my 20 years in the hobby, I have never seen an open cab door yet. I wish the manufacturers would stop wasting money on these fragile parts and cast the doors into the shell.

In order to change the headlight bulbs in the NW-2 you have to remove the headlight lens. Good luck with that. It’s only a press fit, but you can’t get anything in around it to pop it out. I know from experience the bulb is probably going to get broken anyway, so I remove the headlight casings, cut the wires, and drill hole in the back of the casing large enough for a replacement bulb or LED to pass through. A little hot glue will hold either in place. Unfortunately the headlight casings can also be difficult to remove. I always sand all four sides of their square mounting peg to ensure they will be easier to remove if necessary.

And lastly the NW-2 railings press into little plastic cups that are glued to the frame with small, fragile pins on the bottom that usually shear off. Usually a broken plastic pin on any part can be drilled out and replaced with a brass one, but the bottom of the cups are too shallow to hold replacement pins. As the members of our club have found out, when you order the replacement railings, the cups are not included.

Yah I know; would I like a little cheese with my whine?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice thorough description of the NW-2 Paul, the most complete I have ever read! 

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have 4 NW-2 cows and two Calf's I converted them to Battery Power using a battery car. They all have run fine for me. I ran two of them at Marty's this year switching his cars around. 

I have removed anything and everything having to do with track power. I did find the motor leads a little loose but crimped them with a long nose pliers. 

When I use to run track power I would send my NW-2 out and let it run. It ran real jerky at first but after a few laps it cleaned the track and ran smoothly

The NW-2 was the first engine I bought when starting out in G scale. 


JJ


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine, Cow and calf, are the 1st run. I gutted all of USAT electronics, including sliders. Fitted and Airwire G2 board and an onboard battery to the Cow, linked the Drone into the same board. She runs smooth and quiet as a mouse. 
I have to agree with the little fiddly bits that shear off. But, thats the same with all USAT stuff, it's all those little bits that makes them so good looking.


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## Fred (Jan 2, 2008)

I had mine converted to battery using the RCS system & Phoenix sound. Couldn't be happier. Before converting, operated fine on track power using the sliders.


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's some more pics for you Mike.


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

The NW-2 is a nice reliable locomotive in my experience. 
The ALCO S4 is a little more "kid-friendly" in terms of detail parts, but both run about as well. Don't be turned off by the split axle issues... The gears don't usually strip, it's just that the axles can become loose and wobble a bit.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And the repairs to the cracked axle can be inexpensive, like Paul does it. 

Greg


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## sdl39fan (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks everyone for the information and details. Ordered my NW-2 Sunday night and just received here at work today. Will be spending some time tonight working on it. 
Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tip: open the bottom covers on the motor blocks, take out the axles and inspect. I received several USAT locos with the axles cracked.... yes, brand new ones. 

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 07 Dec 2011 07:43 AM 
Tip: open the bottom covers on the motor blocks, take out the axles and inspect. I received several USAT locos with the axles cracked.... yes, brand new ones. 

Greg 

Alternatively, you can just try to spin the wheels (one at a time) using your fingers. Hold one wheel and try to turn the other one on the same shaft. They should not move unless the gear shaft is cracked in which case you can turn them with resistance.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That will tell you if they are so cracked that they are already completely ineffective. 

You should inspect them, they are easier to repair if only a "little" cracked... if they are cracked, they will assuredly get bad enough to slip. 

Regards, Greg


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Hello 
There are other fixes to the gear also,I use brass tube cut a piece and bevel the inside edge just a little then press it on with my drill press or vise. 
also do this if not cracked I like long trains. 
richard


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Dick413 on 08 Dec 2011 09:38 AM 
Hello 
There are other fixes to the gear also,I use brass tube cut a piece and bevel the inside edge just a little then press it on with my drill press or vise. 
also do this if not cracked I like long trains. 
richard 

This is also how I fix them, but use a tube flaring tool to bevel the edge.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes... * [url]http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/motive-power-mods-aamp-tips-mainmenu-35/usat-motive-power-mainmenu-36/split-axles-mainmenu-164*[/url]


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

This came with my starter set! 
 
This is how it looks now! 
 
Keeps going! 
Sean


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Great images, Larry. The whole fleet looks super and a wonderful choice of colors.......









I've had issues with USA "split" axles as well and have "fixed" them by drilling a 1/16 hole though the gear collar and the metal axle to insert a 1/16 x1/2 inch roll pin. I used to fix the early Bachmann Ten Wheelers that way 10-12 years ago. 

I like the images that Greg posted of Tony's fix, though. It looks much cleaner and easier...


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

WOW Sean Your paint job looks great 

JJ


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan should get some credit! 
Thanks John


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

I converted my NW2 to an EMD SW900 to replicate Pickerings change to Diesel around 1956. It's my own color scheme not Pickerings. The Loco is a good runner and handles the MOW operations pulling the track cleaning car.










Original configuarion










End result without the letter S added yet for P-Town & West Side RR


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Stan, Tony had special sleeves made up to the proper diameter... I bought the rest that he had, and used his pictures. I think there is a K&S brass tube that can be bought off the shelf that also works. 

Greg


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Stan....yep I do like yellow. Who knew there was so much to say about NWs


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## sdl39fan (Jul 31, 2011)

I got my NW-2 all apart and ready to strip the paint. What method works best on USAT shells? I have used Super Degreaser on my O scale cars and that works pretty well. 

Thanks 

Michael


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

I have used 90% rubbing alcohol not 70% with good results,use it first before you try anything alse. got 90% at walmart. They also have plastic contaners so you can pour it over it then cover 
then shake it. 
have fun richard


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By ddevoto on 10 Dec 2011 10:09 AM 
I converted my NW2 to an EMD SW900 to replicate Pickerings change to Diesel around 1956. It's my own color scheme not Pickerings. The Loco is a good runner and handles the MOW operations pulling the track cleaning car.










Original configuarion










End result without the letter S added yet for P-Town & West Side RR 




Have you got a picture of the nose of the black NW-2? I would like to see the front

JJ


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

JJ,

Here's Front and back.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 10 Dec 2011 01:09 PM 
Thanks Stan, Tony had special sleeves made up to the proper diameter... I bought the rest that he had, and used his pictures. I think there is a K&S brass tube that can be bought off the shelf that also works. 

Greg 

I just use 3/8" brass tube from the hardware store. I bought a 3-foot long section so I'm set for life. (Bring 'em on USAT, I'm ready!) I just clean-up the end of the tube on the sander, cut out a section using a tube cutter or hack saw, hold the other end to the sander (on a socket or such) to get rid of the compressed ridge left from the cutter or roughness from the saw, then take that small section and put it in my flare tool to flare the end a bit. Then it presses right over the gear flared end first without beveling the plastic.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The tubing I found off the shelf was a little too tight on some axles, but not a big deal. One thing I found is that the smaller motor blocks have less clearance around the axles, so the thick sleeves illustrated above needed some grinding of the motor block for clearance. The K&S tubing is much thinner wall. 

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Thank you Dan The paint job looks great. 

JJ


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

Micheal 

I've used lowfume Easy-Off on a GP-38 just as successfully as AC rolling stock spray and stay for 2-3 hours then soft brush under running water is what I do you can let go a little longer which will soften the plastic if ya want some minor gouges for age/weathering effects  


THANKS Paul for the comphrehensive listing of the NW annoyances. Quite a few being transferable to their other power unit offerings will be c'/p'ing into word to print out for reference as a form of fixer check list. Will revisit the OVGRS site to see if your eyelets are store bought, or shop made I kind ah recall seeing something about them a couple yrs back !? 


doug c


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Todd/Greg... Thanks for the input on the brass tubing... I'll check it out.. The roll pins work but the tubing looks a bit easier....


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, sometimes the axles have two cracks, 180 degrees or so apart. At that point, I would think drilling without it coming completely apart might be difficult. 

There's also a small difference in outside diameter of the axle/gear castings between the smaller locos and the F and Geeps, from my experience. 

Regards, Greg


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Posted By John J on 11 Dec 2011 02:10 PM 
Thank you Dan The paint job looks great. 

JJ 

Thanks JJ,

Have you painted your NW-2's and calfs with a custom paint scheme?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By ddevoto on 12 Dec 2011 09:10 AM 
Posted By John J on 11 Dec 2011 02:10 PM 
Thank you Dan The paint job looks great. 

JJ 

Thanks JJ,

Have you painted your NW-2's and calfs with a custom paint scheme?



Not yet. 

I can not decide what colors to paint them.

I saw one scheme I like by a Canadian RR where the engine is black except for the Cab and the front corners are red.

I kind of like that for NW-2s 

I am also thinking of black engines with a white horse on the front. 

JJ


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

There is a simple thing that you can do to improve the looks of the sideframes. There are three screw heads that show on the sides. Just cut four very thin pieces of T shaped plastic to fit the space and glue in place. Lightly glue so they can be removed if necessary. Presto,screw heads gone.


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