# kadees ????



## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm considering converting all my couplers to kadees.. What kaydee # coupler would I need to replace all the Bachmann couplers I have on my rolling stock, all truck mounts ???? 

I have an assortmant of Bachmann, USA & Aristo cars, USA Diesel Locos and Bachmann Big Haulers steamers. 

There's just so many.. I'm lost. 

DF


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave 

Kadees come in a variety of mounts and styles to fit most any large scale equipment. 

The first step is to decide if you will use #1 scale or the G scale couplers - the #1 is aimed at 1:29 while the G is aimed at 1:22.5 and larger but many modelers choose the opposite. 

Kadee has a list of conversions on their website at http://www.kadee.com/conv/page-c3.htm If what you want isnt listed, a call to Kadee will get you the info. 

Regards ... Doug


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## Fred (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the #831's on all my truckmounted Aristo & Bachman cars, a very easy conversion. I also used them on my NW-2, FA, and Lil Critter.


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2008)

Dave, 
Take a piece of advice and body mount all your couplers. little more work but much better for pulling and backing trains. most cars will take the larger kadee like a 789 but if you want slack action 830's are the way to go i have a 50/50 mix and they work well, some had said they had minor clearance issues with 830's on 10ft dia, but i have not had any problems with them... 
Nick


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## Guest (Aug 18, 2008)

heres a short video from a couple of weeks ago. i took some engines and 22 pieces of rolling stock over to a freinds to run and they run flawless with kadees even on uneven track 
Nick..


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 

I used 831's on everything, from 0-4-0 engine to a Usa Gp 30, and all my cars.


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, i send your message in your Private Messages


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like the consensus is the 831s.. thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. 

Nick: Great video, loved it, looks like you guys had some fun.


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

That will help dave...../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## jtutwiler (May 29, 2008)

Hey Nick, Do you know what sound system is in that Aristo Mikado? 

Thanks 
JT


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 

I cut the shanks on the trucks off about 1/4"+ to make them shorter. If you look you will see a second hole that will fit just about perfect to screw the 831's on. The shorter truck shanks helps to reduce the "droop" on the couplers as well as bringing the cars closer together for a better look.


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## blattan (Jan 4, 2008)

If you decide on the G couplers, I suggest that you try a few of the 830s and the 831s to find out which one you prefer. I started with 831s, but switched to 830s except for cabooses where I still use 831s. For locomotives I use whatever Kadee recommends. --Bert


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2008)

Posted By jtutwiler on 08/18/2008 8:34 PM
Hey Nick, Do you know what sound system is in that Aristo Mikado? 
Thanks 
JT




JT, 
Thats MTH dcs control and sound in the pacific. after many hours of quartering and sodering in the motor blocks to fix what aristo did in making these things far lees than perfect, it got dcs's and it runs flawless now but i will not pull much more than 3 cars for fear the drivers will slip again. go to my youtube page and you can see my miakdo as well 
Nick


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Dave, 

Here is my 2 cents. I love Kadees, but I would put in a plug for the smaller #1 size (820, 821) or the rust collered variety (920, 921). From your previous posts, you seem to have 1/29 equipment and I like the look of the smaller coupler. I also echo the above remarks on body mounting--though that depends on your minimum radius curves, though yours look pretty borad on the postings of your new S.O.B. layout. 

Here are some photos of my conversions, and a photo of the most important thing you need; the 829 (#1) or 880 (G) height guage!!!!! 










My aristo covered hopper, just the box is mounted the coupler still need to be painted. This is an 820 on a piece of PVC. I tent to drill and tap for screws, rather than glue my boxes on. And with those coal drags you are running, that might be a great idea. 










These also might help. Cut the tongue off the aristo truck (this one is primed waiting for paint): 










This is an LGB tank car with the short 821: 










And my most involved conversion--a custom coupler pocket for an 820 on my Aristo Evans box car--this is supposed to look like the prototype cushon unerframe, they really do stick out from the body like this: 










As you will also notice, I cut off the trip pins. I don't use them and I will place "air hoses" on my equipment. This is a purely cosmetic choice. I use a razor saw now, careful with a dremel--the trip pins can get hot enough to melt the coupler enough so it does not work--you can guess how I figured that one out! 

Hope this helps. 

Matt


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Again, thanks everyone. 

Just for information sake. On the newly expanded Lone Peak & Western, on the mainline, the north turnaround loop is all 8' dia. The South loop is all 10' dia. 

I do have an S-curve issue behind the shed that will be removed shortly, so I won't worry you with that for now. 

Currently all my switches are short (std) LGB & Aristo. There are 5 of them. As time and $$$ allow all of them will be changed out for Aristo wide radius turnouts (10' dia I believe). 

So, assuming that my MINIMUM turn diameter is 8' , would the 831 (or 821) still be applicable as a body mount? Or am I still better off leaving them as a truck mount?


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2008)

Dave, 
you can use 789's to body mount for 8ft dia curves but i wouldnt go below that... 
Nick


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the 820's myself, I really prefer body mounts also. Jerry


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

Our club uses body-mounted, Gauge 1, Kadee 820s on our freight cars. They function well during our railway operations. 

There are several articles on our club web site on how to mount them on various cars. 



















On the Evans boxcar the coupler tang can be left on. It will clear the frame when the truck is turned around. 










If you are interested in the articles just click on the link. 
Modeling Tips


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## McGinty26 (Jan 3, 2008)

hey nick, 

whadda you mean my track is uneven ???? LMAO!! 

Pat


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## rpc7271 (Jan 2, 2008)

On most USA, LGB, and Aristocraft equipment you have to shim down the kadee coupler to get it at the correct height to match the Kadee coupler height gauge. Since most cars need to be shimed the same amount, I could never figure out why Kadee never made a comericial shim to sell with their couplers. Seams to me there would be a big market for it.


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## Guest (Aug 20, 2008)

Posted By McGinty26 on 08/20/2008 9:51 AM
hey nick, 
whadda you mean my track is uneven ???? LMAO!! 
Pat




Jeeeeeeeez Pat, i thought you were on vacation and i couldve gotten away with that comment... HE HE HE /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif 
Nick.... 

A picture of a brand new mallet before it crapped out..


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## Guest (Aug 20, 2008)

My super wheathered and detailed mikado with kadees on Pats layout, by the way we all have fun when we get together and run.... 
Nick/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Good thread, Dave! I've been planning to ask the same questions. I'm not sure I'm less confused now!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave; 

Sometimes you have to be a bit creative to mount Kadees on a piece of equipment. The best solution I found for the Bachmann saddletank Porter was to put a Kadee 831 coupler in a Kadee 779 coupler pocket. I believe that I had to remove material from the face of the 779 coupler pocket before the 831 coupler would fit into it, but the combination works very well on the saddletank Porter. 

The front view is a bit too dark. 










The back gives you the general idea. 










I am slowly converting my stock to Kadees, and I really like them. 

Yours, 
David Meashey


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

To clarify just in case... 

1) The truck mounted couplers that come with Bachmann, Aristo, etc., are mounted straight out of the tang attached to the trucks. This results in a very low coupler and while they'll pretty much match each other they are much too low to match up with a body mounted coupler. Thus you don't want to mount a Kadee with a straight shank here. 

2) Kadee's # 830 has a straight shank and is for body mounting. Body mounting couplers raises their height well above that of regular truck mounted couplers. 

3) To address this problem Kadee's #831 has a crook in it that when truck mounted in place of the original couplers raises its height to match the height of body mounted Kadees. This allows body mounts to be used with truck mounts if desired. 

4) Both the #830 and #831 have smaller #1 scale counterparts if the smaller size is desired. I don't know the numbers offhand. 

5) The #1 scale size best represent standard gauge couplers for 1:32 and 1:29 scales as well as the 3/4 size couplers used on many east coast narrow gauge lines. 

6) The full size "G" Kadees are closest for the D&RGW narrow gauge that used full size couplers on the prototype narrow gauge. 

7) The full size "G" Kadees having a deeper profile are more forgiving of uneven track and height isn't as crucial as with the smaller #1's. 

8) In my own unscientific tests that I did before choosing the "G" Kadees I found that the full size G's worked slightly smoother and easier than the #1's although both were excellent. The differences weren't enough to choose one over the other by themselves. 

9) Just the two types, #830 or #831 or their #1 scale counterparts will take care of the vast majority of your needs in most cases. There are however dozens of additional options as to coupler pockets, lengths, etc., for special installs. See Kadee's listings for these more specialized types. 

10) Many of us that use Kadees outdoors clip off the hoses hanging down as we don't use the magnets or delayed uncoupling feature. Any grade will allow the car to roll and not uncouple properly and will mess up the delayed feature. Also the wind will often move a car enough to do the same. Lastly the hoses often catch on debris between the rails and cause derailments. There are a few though that use and enjoy these features so it's up to you and your particular situation. Of course indoors these features can work fine. 

I figure there are a number of people that have had no experience with using Kadees and therefore all the numbers and types can be quite confusing. Hopefully this will clarify a bit so you'll have some idea of what's being talked about. 

I have used Kadees in every scale you can think of almost and still think they're the best thing going for the purpose. There are couplers very close to actual prototype in looks and detailing that seem to operate fairly well and some others that operate as well as Kadee but none that combine the durability, reliabilty and prototype appearance together in one package that Kadee's do. My opinion!


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

I agree with Richard 100%. I like the smaller #1 guage coupleres as I mentioned earlier in this thread, exactly for the reason Richard mentionied; I model 1/29. The corresponding numbers for the #1 guage couplers are 820 and 821 (vs 830 and 831). Note that Kadee also makes them in a rusty colored plastic and those are 920 and 921 (or 930 and 931). There is actually some logic to Kadee's numbering, though it still confuses me sometimes when you start dealing with the offset shanks. Fortunately I do not use those!


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