# Additions to my Fairymead



## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

So far these are the additions to my loco:
A summer land chuffer.
With it I added a condensate and oil catcher with a drain, inside the smokebox.
Replaced the insulation in the smokebox and in the front door, also moved the screw that held the numberplate , beyond the insulating.
At the same time I also reworked the latch on the smokebox door.
I am still planning to add a steam driven water pump. Most likely not the Regner, but a larger one, with a height of 80mm, that is more to the scale.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Denes, hate to say it but that tank is completely blocking the exhaust gases from the flue and will severely over heat the boiler/smokebox leading to unsoldering parts and damaging the paint. Id hate to see the smokebox come unsoldered. It is nice work though.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

pappde, were you getting crackling in the smoke box? is that why you made the catcher?? could be another solution to the Accucraft Shay's, on a smaller scale of course.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Kovacjr said:


> Denes, hate to say it but that tank is completely blocking the exhaust gases from the flue and will severely over heat the boiler/smokebox leading to unsoldering parts and damaging the paint. Id hate to see the smokebox come unsoldered. It is nice work though.


Would it help if I would lower the pan about a quarter of an inch?


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Nick Jr said:


> pappde, were you getting crackling in the smoke box? is that why you made the catcher?? could be another solution to the Accucraft Shay's, on a smaller scale of course.


I saw this arrangement on the german forums, guess it is to make the loco run cleaner?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

pappde, thank you for your response.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

The issue is it is such a small smokedox and the exhause from the flue cane exit freely enough. It has happened on some other smaller locos too when adding barkboxes, they were destroying the doors and paint. Id think if it was just smaller in size both height and dia would be better. Though the chuffers that you ordered do the same thing in keeping it clean and on this engine sound really good.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I agree with Jason, ditch the catch pan and just use the Summerlands chuffer. I have no issues with lots of crud up the stack on my Fairymead with that chuff pipe in it. You also have cylinder cocks you can open to help deal with the initial crud and water when the cylinders are cold. But I rarely open mine. That said, your workmanship is beautiful on what you made. Cheers Mike


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

the chuffer keeps oil from shooting out the stack, but doesn't it then drip down in the smoke box? That's what it does in my lumberjack. One of my projects is to make a catch can.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

*

http://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/26003-unit-shop-steam-oil-ring-dam-accucraft-locos.html

*


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Skeeterweazel said:


> the chuffer keeps oil from shooting out the stack, but doesn't it then drip down in the smoke box? That's what it does in my lumberjack. One of my projects is to make a catch can.


Yes - and then it drips down into the hot gasses coming from the flue tube and burns up. The lower part of the chuffer tube gets quite a black deposit on it, but nothing to worry about for a few years.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

This loco doesn't need a oil dam as its a proper working lubricator. Mine works well for one HR run.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason;
They're all properly working lubricators , that put out too much oil; unless it has an Adjustable Lubricator (and adjusted properly.) If there's steam oil gunk out the exhaust it's getting too much steam oil. Accucraft's standard lubricators have always and still put out too much oil. It's just an idiosyncrasy of their steamers. We've been fixing their stock lubricators since they started making steamers. Accucraft's correction of the problem is an adjustable lubricator. Why it is not installed on every locomotive? Beats me.

Some accept gunk exhaust as a fact of steamer life - it just doesn't have to be that way. 
. 
I'll take your word for it your Fairymead lubricator is working properly. Ontheotherhand, the posts here seem to say others do have a problem and could use a dam or one of the other fixes.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have to say that I built a lubricator for my K28 and have no oil issues, its a single no65 drilled hole on top of the pipe in the lubricator. All the Accucraft seem to have the same size hole so I am not sure what happens. Maybe the space from the pipe to the cap is too great? I'm just above so there is a small displacement space. Maybe that is the key. 

On a separate note, I have locos from varying manufacturers and don't have a issue of over oiling that I see excessive. When filling the lub, you cant fill past the pipe in the tank. Any level over that gets dumped right into the line when the cap is put on and the regulator is open. The few locos I see that are bad were the Hunslet and T1. Both are dead leg lubricators also.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, I installed your design of the Oil Ring Dam on one of my 2 cylinder Shay's and it worked even better than the 'Spitolator' that I was advised to put on the other one, I even tried the displacement pieces screwed to the lubricator top, no success there either. Your design seem to work best for me. So well I also installed it on my AML 0-6-0 switcher and the loco and car roof's are much cleaner. THANK YOU 
I am in the process of fine tuning it on the Fairymead. Mine came with just an open pipe up the stack, so I pinched it and ground exits in the sides like Accucraft used to do to their exhaust pipes and was very happy with that modification. Until recently when I heard a Fairymead with the Chuffer, and I now anxiously await the arrival of mine, ANY DAY NOW.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick;
All the credit for the Ring Dam belongs to Kevin O'Connor, aka Two Blocked.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, thank you for bringing the device back to the surface. And THANK YOU to Kevin for your time and expertise to develop this so simple device that seems to conquer a long perplexing problem that I and many other LS's have tried MANY solutions for. 
I have found once you separate the chatter from the truly knowledgable there are many simple solutions to some seemingly perplexing problems. AND the best part is it usually requires very little or no expense.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

My next issue is the cylinder drain.
I was thinking to make a remote connection.
On the picture the red arrow indicates a shaft that can be used as a lever rod that could be actuated from the cab, by extending the already preset lever and rod connection, only the teach rod needs to be extended into the cab. If I put a lever onto the red arrow shaft, then I can bring a rod (yellow arrow) to the front of the engine. The rotating drain plug can be pulled out (blue arrow) and reversed so the two small pegs are now at the backside of the cylinders. The last remaining connection between the long rod (yellow) and the small levers I can not figure out yet. Any ideas?


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

A ninety degree bellcrank will convert longitudinal motion (along the length of the locomotive) to transverse motion. Connect the transverse links to the valves, and you're there.

Another option would be to make the "yellow" part a torque tube, instead of a puss-pull rod.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

AND (I'm sure you already have in the planning) a servo to operate them------------
My chuffer arrived yesterday and will install it tomorrow and have fun on the outside track, can't wait. LG


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Run my Fairymead first time today.
The condensate catcher worked like charm. At the end of the run the smokebox inside was clean as a whistle, without a drop of oil anywhere. Also there were no droplets anywhere outside on the loco, most likely this cleanliness is because the chuffer. The underside between the cylinders remained also clean and dry. As an added bonus, as the oily residue burned off in the catcher it gave a nice smoke chuffing out of the chimney.
I heed Jason's advice and even though I did not notice any overheating due to the catcher restricting heat exhaust, I will make the catcher a little bit smaller.
Will try the smaller device tomorrow.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Do you have any pictures of your locomotive's smoke?

If you are burning off oil, then that should be absorbing heat energy.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

BigRedOne said:


> If you are burning off oil, then that should be absorbing heat energy.


Yes, but it is waste energy, since it is already in the smokebox.


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