# Cutting stringers for stairs?



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I have some projects in mind that will require a lot of stairs. Unfortunately, I have only simple hand tools. Does anyone have a suggestion on ways to cut stringers for stairs, that would be reasonably fast yet accurate?


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

I drew some in CAD and had them laser cut out of .100" ply wood. 80 stringers 12" long, cost $40 inluding material.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

It can be done with simple tools with a template piece and simple custom miter box 

Make a template, and Trace the lines to the stringers and side of the miter box where you want to saw. 
Make a custom miter-box (ie 3 1x4s in a u shape ). cut the desired depth and angle in the new miter box for the tread and riser. This is critical to do right since all cuts will follow the cut in the miter box. 
All this takes is a saw, screws, screwdriver, n scrap wood ( bout 1 ft each piece ) . For the saw n miter box, let the saw do the work. The miter box can be customized any way you want, width and depth. Use straight & flat pieces of wood, that will give the best results.


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

How about cut a triangular rod with an accurate cross section of a step. Cut the rod to stair width steps, then glue the steps to a flat incline. 

Terl


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## Rich Schiffman (Jan 2, 2008)

Try Banta Model works. He makes 1/20.3 stair risers.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I second JPCaputo method. Make a custom miterbox. Probably need two slots in the miterbox. One for the rise cut and the other for the run cut.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

When I cut real stringers for stairs I used to use small clamps on my framing square. One clamp was set for the tread and one for the risers. I would go down each stringer marking from the square with a pencil then cut it out with my skill 77. It is very fast, but then that is 1:1 scale not 1:20.32. -)


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JPCaputo on 01 Jan 2012 11:11 PM 
It can be done with simple tools with a template piece and simple custom miter box 

Make a template, and Trace the lines to the stringers and side of the miter box where you want to saw. 
Make a custom miter-box (ie 3 1x4s in a u shape ). cut the desired depth and angle in the new miter box for the tread and riser. This is critical to do right since all cuts will follow the cut in the miter box. 
All this takes is a saw, screws, screwdriver, n scrap wood ( bout 1 ft each piece ) . For the saw n miter box, let the saw do the work. The miter box can be customized any way you want, width and depth. Use straight & flat pieces of wood, that will give the best results. .................................................................................................................................................................................................

Do you have a photo of what you are doing.. It's not sinking in on this old brain.
I not seeing anything but cutting in to the miter box you make and not sure how with out cutting in to the stringers. I guess after you make the stair cuts, then rip the back of the stringers such as a 1" X 4" to look right?
We tryed with a band saw but takes forever. 
I been trying to figue out how to make them for a few stairs in places on our layout with landings. Some are due to have to raise up 2 to 3 foot from the ground.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Unfortunately I don't have a way to post photos on here yet. For the miter box, the 3 1x4s are put together as a normal miter box. Bottom and 2 sides screwed into the bottom |_| . 

For the cuts, With a template / first hand cut piece, mark the miter box 1 line for the angles wanted and and extend the lines to the top. So you have the angles marked on the side. 

|__/____\___| 

Then cut the lines to the proper depth you need. 

This is still a 1 cut at a time deal. 

If you have a radial arm saw it will work well. Tip the head, and lift the blade, then start slicing. 
Use a fine blade, 80 or 90 teeth on a 10 inch. 

Craigslist has many radial arm saws available, some real cheap or free. I got my 1980 chraftsman or free. The motor Puts my cheap table saw to shame its so quiet.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, maybe this is goofy, but how about laying a piece of strip sytrene or whatever, diagonally--from lower left to upper right, then gluing (MEK-ing) on little triangles cut on your Chopper from strip styrene. Just choose the proper width (for the desired tread depth and riser height) then put on your 45-degree angle thingy and start chopping. Wish I could draw a diagram in my post, but hopefully you get the idea. Yeah, there's lots of "gluing" involved, but it goes pretty fast since MEK works like a snap. And when it all welds itself together and ya paint it, nobody's the wiser. Except Bud...ha, ha. Of course, if ya want it to look like fancy woodwork then good luck.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have a Radial Arm saw, put a Dado blade in it and tip it to the desired angle. Make multiple "V" cuts across a wide board that is as thick as the desired stringer is across the broad side and as long as the stringer. Once all the "V" cuts are made, rip the board into individual stringers if you want full prototypical stairs with stringers and planks for the treads and risers, or just stand the board up as a stairway in itself. 

The way to keep the "V" cuts spaced properly is to put a hinged stop above the fence that will fit the last "V" cut at the proper spacing. Make one cut, lift the stop, slide the board down so the stop will fall in the just made cut, drop the stop to hold the work at the correct location and make the next cut... Repeat until done.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 03 Jan 2012 09:42 AM 
If you have a Radial Arm saw, put a Dado blade in it and tip it to the desired angle. Make multiple "V" cuts across a wide board that is as thick as the desired stringer is across the broad side and as long as the stringer. Once all the "V" cuts are made, rip the board into individual stringers if you want full prototypical stairs with stringers and planks for the treads and risers, or just stand the board up as a stairway in itself. 

The way to keep the "V" cuts spaced properly is to put a hinged stop above the fence that will fit the last "V" cut at the proper spacing. Make one cut, lift the stop, slide the board down so the stop will fall in the just made cut, drop the stop to hold the work at the correct location and make the next cut... Repeat until done. 

........................................................................................................................................................................................

Ok .. We have tryed with our shopsmith Saw using a dado saw blade and angled it to make the cuts.. but now trying to fig. out how to make the stops due to cuts are down on the table and no way of making a stop except some kind of a stop on the end of the 1'' x 4" that i can only make one cut.. Need some kind of a idea to move the cut up on notch and not seeing how to do it.. Any photos of an idea? It would be not problem with a cut on top of the board to make some kind of a progressave notch.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By noelw on 03 Jan 2012 03:08 PM 
Posted By Semper Vaporo on 03 Jan 2012 09:42 AM 
If you have a Radial Arm saw, put a Dado blade in it and tip it to the desired angle. Make multiple "V" cuts across a wide board that is as thick as the desired stringer is across the broad side and as long as the stringer. Once all the "V" cuts are made, rip the board into individual stringers if you want full prototypical stairs with stringers and planks for the treads and risers, or just stand the board up as a stairway in itself. 

The way to keep the "V" cuts spaced properly is to put a hinged stop above the fence that will fit the last "V" cut at the proper spacing. Make one cut, lift the stop, slide the board down so the stop will fall in the just made cut, drop the stop to hold the work at the correct location and make the next cut... Repeat until done. 

........................................................................................................................................................................................

Ok .. We have tryed with our shopsmith Saw using a dado saw blade and angled it to make the cuts.. but now trying to fig. out how to make the stops due to cuts are down on the table and no way of making a stop except some kind of a stop on the end of the 1'' x 4" that i can only make one cut.. Need some kind of a idea to move the cut up on notch and not seeing how to do it.. Any photos of an idea? It would be not problem with a cut on top of the board to make some kind of a progressave notch. 

If you are cutting from under the work (table saw with an angled dado blade) then place a triangular piece (the shape of the curf you are cutting) on the table (use double stick tape) adjacent to the blade and parallel to it. Push the work over the blade to make the first "V" cut. Then move the work so the just completed "V" is over the triangular "stop" and push the work over the blade to make the 2nd cut. Again, move the just completed "V" over the "stop" and make the next cut. Repeat until all "V"s are cut.

If you are cutting from above the work (radial arm saw with angled dado blade) then first cut two "V" notches in the fence, adjacent to each other (leaves a"W" in the fence). Assume you are moving the work from left to right (blade angled from upper left to lower right), align the fence so the the left side of the "W" will be where the blade will pass. Make the first "V" cut in the work and then move the work so that it aligns with the right side of the "W" and make the next cut. To assure the work is aligned, place a triangular piece that will fit in the notch in the fence and the previously cut dado in the work. WATCH YOUR FINGERS WHILE HOLDING THE TRIANGULAR PIECE!!!!! Better yet, hinge the triangular piece so that it can be flipped up out of the way so the work can be moved and then moved back into position... or even better... make the triangular piece fairly short and permanently nail it to the fence in the right side of the "W"; then just pull the work (at a right angle to the fence) out from under the triangular stopt , move the work to the right and push it back under the triangular piece to position the work at the right place to make the next cut.


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## Jonnychuffchuff (Dec 24, 2010)

Semper Vaporo: THANK YOU !!!! Thank you so very much for your lucid explanation of how to manage this project on both types of saws. Not very experienced at all in power woodworking, for about a year now I have been wondering how to do this myself for a multitude of steps for a coaling tower I have made. 

I like Dan's method of getting stringers laser cut for fifty cents apiece, but I really do far prefer to make things myself if I can. I have a small table saw and my neighbour has a radial arm saw, so now I can use either of the methods you have described. This was great! Thanks again!


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

A good sabersaw mounted upside down on a table with the blade sticking up make a good way to cut stringers. Draw out your stringers on the computer and tape to the material of choice so you 
don't have to draw on your of choice material. 
Dennis


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