# Track Joiner Cleaning



## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

I got a bunch of used track, really weathered. 

So far i've used a scotch pad with bar keepers friend and water to clean the rail head and inside.

I ran across using vinegar and salt to soak copper cables to clean the ends when they are tarnished. Has anyone tried this for cleaning joiners when they are on the track still?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd take the joiners off and soak them separately, this way you can be sure of good conductivity, although you did not mention brand of track, what it is made of, and type of joiner. 

I'm assuming brass Aristo or LGB. 

Regards, Greg


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Thanks 


Its LGB brass. What is the easiest and safest way for the tie to remove the joiner, since they have the end of the joiner bent thru the tie. 

JP


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

If you are using the original slip jointers that come on Aristo, LGB and USA track I'd do what Greg reccomended. If you are using a SplitJaw type rail clamp, I use a small wire wheel on my Dremmel to clean the inside faces of the clamps and the rail ends.. works great.


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

If the track has been outside the ties maybe a bit brittle (UV damage) and trying to remove the joiners could cause ties to break. If you are going to lay the track permanently you could just solder jumpers over the joiners for electrical continuity. 

Most of the connection between the rail and the joiner is the vertical flat space (form memory and not looking at one right now). If you clean this with some emery paper, file, or a wire brush on a Dremel you should be okay. 

Alan


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

When I installed my layout outdoors, a friend suggested that I apply a small drop of "Di-Electric Grease" to the inside of the rail joiner before assembling the track. This grease is often used on mechanical distributors to solve the problem caused by condensation or water in the distributor of older cars. I used the Di-Electric grease when I installed my layout about 7 years ago, and have never had a conductivity problem. The grease does a couple things. First, it provides necessary continuity while simultaneously keeping dirt/debris/water, etc. from collecting in the rail joiners. At the same time, the grease prevents oxidation of both the joiners and the rail at both sides of the joint. Now, I run live steam, but when the grand kids come over and want to run, I bring out the LGB. After cleaning the surface with a scotch-brite pad, trains run flawlessly. A photo of the grease follows. I've used it for about 150 feet of track and the can is still half full. It is available at all auto parts supply stores.










For those considering the soldering route, find someone with a 250 watt resistance soldering unit from a company such as American Beauty. I have a 100 watt unit and it is too small. You will have to make small jumpers to solder to the track on each side of the joint. I suggest you use 14 gauge solid wire in pieces about 1.5" in length for the jumpers. Braided wire collects too much dirt. DO NOT SOLDER THE JOINER, and most importantly, solder the jumper to the outside of the track. A resistance soldering outfit applies heat only where the contacts are applied, therefore, it does not melt the ties. As with any other electrical soldering job, you will have to use rosin core solder or rosin flux to prevent further corrosion and ensure continuity.

Good luck,

Will


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

To a specific questions JP raised: 

I don't think I would remove the LGB joiners because of the tab, you have to bend it to remove the joiner, and then bend it back to reinstall. 

(of course if you are switching to clamps, then remove it, but I think you are wanting to use the joiners) 

I think I would get a small container, put in lime-away or CLR and dip the end of the rail with the joiner, until the joiner was bright. 

Now you still have the problem that you want to rinse this stuff thoroughly afterwards, I'd hit with a strong spray from a hose, or better yet, run the track through a dishwasher cycle, soap and all. 

Regards, Greg


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

well i just googled this for you and i have done this myself -the results are less impressive than say -using brass or metal polish on a qtip inside each joiner and then rinsing-whcih h ave done 


 stolen from the internet-i post this because its easy and-importantly -will rinse out completely-it does lighten and clean the brass but not like a real metal polish-but it also leaves no grit or residue   



  First, find a lemon. ( i have used reconstituted lemon and it works fine and is much easier)


Great. Now cut it in half, dig out the seeds and squeeze all the juice out of it and into a bowl. Next, find yourself some table salt or baking soda. Doesn't matter which; either will work fine. Slowly stir the salt or soda into the lemon juice until a paste consistency is reached. Now that you have your brass cleaner, use a soft cotton cloth to apply it to the brass. Using the same rag, going with the grain of the metal, work it gently into the brass to remove tarnish. Salt and soda act as a light abrasive, so don't push too hard. If you're really concerned, or the item is brass plated, just go with the lemon juice and skip the salt/soda. Use a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean the crevices. 


if someone knows of a great chemical -or perhaps even flux lightly heated would do the trick-ill let you know shortly as ill go and experiment


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

as promised -i just used some liquid soft solder gel by H and N electronics on two joints -one with and one without 45 w soldering gun- 


the flux (blue liquid) seems to remove the tarnish with or without heat and liquefies green corrosion when heated


not bad-and easy to apply with a brush-easy to rinse-you might give it a go if the lemon doesn't suit you


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Steve, any acid will work on removing brass oxide. 

Lemon juice is citric acid. 

The lime and scum cleaners are often phosphoric or hydrochloric acid... 

As you said, the salt or soda is a light abrasive. 

Regards, Greg


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## H-man (Jan 4, 2008)

Hello all 
My LGB track has be down for years and moved several times. I couldn't find the LGB connectors and went to the Aristo type and where the LGB connector wouldn't come out I just tapped and installed one of their screws in through the rail and the slip joint connector. Used the LGB dilectric grease when I could. Have no issues. I had issues with the LGB connectors splitting and causing electrical issues, I kind of like the Aristo process, it is a bit of a hassle but less than cleaning the inside of a slip joint coupler. 

PS I used a brass wire wheel in a drill motor to clean all of the rail ends and applied the grease to keep clean. 300 feet down with no issues yet. 

I'ts not as hard as one might think to tap and install all of those screws. 

howard


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB joiners have more than the bent tab, they have the dimple also. 

I drill out the dimple and then remove the joiner by pulling it straight off. 
Then I bend the tab back and forth to remove it and then reuse the joiner.


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