# New Forney Issues?



## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Greetings

Just got my new Forney, the 2-4-4 in black. I have had an Aristo 0-4-0 for about a year, so am familiar with the basics of live steam. 
I got steam up OK after 2 tries, the burner was anemic then took off, perhaps a particle of gunk...

The sight glass does not seem to want to cooperate, sometimes empty despite a full boiler, sometimes shows OK and then sometimes a bubble in it...hmm any thoughts?

And finally, the real problem, the front pilot truck seems to derail in a light breeze. Very little pressure of wheels on track, makes it around my 5 ft dia curves, then jumps off on LGB switch (going straight thru) and then derails on the next switch which is a curve to the right. 

I see there is a spring on the pivot, is it possible to adjust the spring pressure so it may want to stay on the rails, or should I make it into an 0-4-4 ...>

Thanks for any ideas.

Jerry


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## SalM (Jan 2, 2008)

The first thing is to be sure the wheels are in gauge...............not uncommon for the wheels to be too tight ortoo loose..............Good Luck Sal


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

I eliminated the springs on my Forney and have had no problem with derailments. Check the back to back with a Kadee coupler height gage or other
device like a caliper. Should be close to 1.574" or 40mm.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry,
my 2-4-4 Forney has no problems with LGB R3 switches. My track is pretty rough (on purpose), as it is supposed to look like a neglected barely scraping by NG line.



We bent the support for the leading truck slightly down:



I checked the back to back distance of the wheels and they were dead on 1.575" (40mm).

Regards


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I had the same problem with mine. Some have had good luck with bending the front truck down. I tried that and still no luck. My solution cut the front off Lol. Actually I liked the look of the 0-4-4 forney' better. My plan was to cut the front off and remove the front truck. 
I dont even pay attention to the sight glass anymore. I put a goodall valve on mine so usually after 10 minutes I squirt some water in it. 
Overall I love my Forney. It runs grade and handles grades fine with RC added. 

Heres a video of what mine looks like now. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwD7-hmRvHU


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Gents:

Thanks for the input. I checked the back to back spacing, and it was exactly what was mentioned above as correct. I will probably try to run without the springs on the truck pivot and see what happens, and if that does not do it, make a slight bend in the truck to get the wheels more purchase on the rails.

Found the water level glass cracked, perhaps why the level was not reading correctly. Cliff is sending a new one gratis. Thanks Cliff...but no running until it get here, I suppose

Jerry


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## roadranger (Jan 6, 2008)

When you change out the sight glass, insert a piece of brass wire anywhere from .025 - .045 diameter. 
Make a small U shape bend on each end to keep it centered in the tube. 
It breaks up the surface tension of the water inside that tiny tube, and you'll get correct readings.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Ask me how I know statement. When installing the new sight glass make SURE that the top and bottom fittings are in alignment.
Use a solid rod instead of the glass to do so. If not aligned when you tighten the nuts you will probably break the glass again.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Bruce-

Very good point!. I am not sure how or why the glass broke, but I noticed it when I was trying to unscrew the top plug to see why the water level glass did not seem to show correctly. Not sure if I broke it or not, and once I removed the broken glass, it seemed like the two end fittings were tight and had no play that would cause the glass to break from taking out the top plug or from tightening the nuts on each end. However, I do believe a small mis alignment will probably break the glass. The solid rod trick is a good one.

How did you actually install the glass tube? How did you insert it so as to get it into each end properly? I thought of taking off the top plug and inserting it from the top fitting and putting on nuts as it slid down, but that has me tightening that top plug again, which could cause another break!

Any advice appreciated

Jerry


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

And it seems the gas feed tube from the tank to the jet blocks access for lowering the glass tube or test rod from directly above with the top plug removed......


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## ththfxr (Dec 27, 2007)

Jim

>"insert a piece of brass wire anywhere from .025 - .045 diameter. Make a small U shape bend on each end to keep it centered in the tube. It breaks up the surface tension of the water inside that tiny tube, and you'll get correct readings."


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

FYI-

I was able to install the new sight glass provided free by Accucraft without breaking it,using the drill rod alignment suggestion above, thanks.

I inserted a wire into the tube to help with the water level reading by breaking surface tension.

I did a test run tonite on rollers. The engine fired up very nice, built up steam, and ran very well. Sight glass seemed to work well in showing water level during the run. I operated the fwd/reverse lever several times.

Tomorrow I will put it on layout and see about the front truck issues, I have removed springs hoping to stop the derailing

Thanks to all for suggestions

Jerry


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

i worked on one forney and founf that the rear truck spring was too light. I changed with a stronger spring and it balanced the loco much better onto the drivers and front pilot truck. Had no issues derailing. If the front truck derails though a stiffer spring should be tried. Also make sure that the truck swings and pivots freely without binding.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I got the front truck to behave by leaving out the spring and slightly bending the truck frame down.
Now however, the rear truck jumps the track on one curve which is 6 ft dia.......
There is a rather complex suspension system for the rear truck, not quite sure where to tweak it..it may not have enough ability to swivel , i will have to poke at that, any suggestions welcome


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Try removing the centering spring.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Bruce-

Thanks for the tip, removing the centering spring seems to have cured the rear truck problem

I am still having some problems with the front truck picking LGB switches, while most of my other locos do not....I have removed the springs and bent it down slightly, maybe time to add weight to the front truck?

Jerry


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Have you checked the back-to-back dimension and or the gauge of the turnouts?


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