# Water and Weatherproofing trackside Device



## Tom Bray (Jan 20, 2009)

I have noticed that most of the DCC equipment is designed for indoor layouts. Just finding stuff rated for enough current to run larger G scale locomives is a big challenge.


My plan is to have all the sophisticated controls (computer, DCC, DCS, power supplies, etc.) residing on a cart that I can wheel out to the layout when I want to run it. I really want to avoid the use of large connectors and do all the connections between the controls and the track using bannana plugs. I found that for an almost reasonable price I can get a set of 5 speaker connectors, all gold plated, that can be put into an outdoor rated receptical (Loews sells all this stuff). So everything will get plugged in through those. What I want is to have one pair of banana connectors power and control all the trackside devices (using DCC). 

My initial thought is to use several Radio Shack plastic boxes to hold the electronics. If mounted so that the cover is either on top or the bottom, they should shed water and if I put a hole in the bottom so that they can breath, it should stay pretty driy inside. I figure I also need to protect from the hot Alabama sun using either shade or paint. The only issue is if I need to get heat out of the box ... plastic is a great insulator. My other thought is that if there is a structure near by, to put them in that. One other idea is to use an outdoor rated electrical outlet box and a cover.


Are there better solutions? 

Does anyone actually make a controller that is designed for outdoor use? 


Tom


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What kind of controller? A DCC throttle? the command station, the booster, switch motors, ?? 

I put my stuff in an upside down irrigation drainage box.. see my site... 

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/dcc-battery-rc-electronics-mainmenu-225/dcc-mainmenu-29/my-implement

Regards, Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I would not use banana plugs over 3 amps. 
You will be better off using binding posts. 
These do come in banana socket form from Radio Shack (2 different styles available, 2 for 3.99 or a 4 pack for 3.99), and the binding is a much better contact and would take less than a minute to hook up.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

If your layout is close to a building, install all of the electronics inside. Run a pair of wires to the track, your receiver may have to be outside, but other than that just your hand held cab. I even have my Massoth receiver in side, with steel siding.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Most of my DCC stuff is in a 6ft tall plastic cabinet and sets under the porch and very close to the track. Other electronics such as my DCC auto reversers are located in track side buildings that are plastic and made water proof. Also my repeater stations are outside protected from the weather with bagies. Been out for 2 years now and no problems. Newest DCC switch machines from Train-Li have with stood the monsoon rains we have been having for past month quite well. Later RJD


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Look at auto parts stores in the towing section for "flat" connectors. These are good for lots of amps and come in several polarized configurations... and they are inexpensive and don't care about the weather. 

However, you best bet is to mount the majority of the electronics inside a building (full sized) or shed. With DCC, you don't need to run many wires out to the track. Radio gear can go in weatherproof plastic boxes such as these 

http://www.mpja.com/email/05-27-09.asp?r=297213&p=17807+bx


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## Tom Bray (Jan 20, 2009)

The controllers will be primarily the interfaces to the switch machines.

The rest of the system will be somewhat like Greg's system except I have no intention of leaving it outside, it will go on a cart and get connected up when running the layout.

The use of the DCC for the turnouts and any other track side stuff is part of my plan to simplify the connections. For now there will be 2 DCS tracks, one DCC or auto reverser (haven't decided which yet), and one track side DCC bus. That covers the mainlines that I am building, I imagine it will expand over time.


Has anyone found a particularly appropriate structure or small shack that would hold a trackside decoder?

How about issues with heat and being in the sun? I wonder if hiding the electronics under the bench system might be a better approach.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

As I mentioned my auto reverse boards are in a track side structure which happens to be a building from Colorado Structures, The unit is also mounted in an enclosed Radio Shack small electrics box for added protection. I have had no problems with the heat or moisture. Its been out for over a year. I just made sure to make the building water proof, by sealing all areas with Aquariums silicone. Later RJD


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

We use for our own waterproofing of outside electronics two products and it has been prooven very successful.

Insulating Varnish - 1st layer directly onto the electronics

Protective Rubber coating for the second layer as well as all external holeshttp://www.train-li-usa.com/store/insulating-varnish-p-479.html


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## Tom Bray (Jan 20, 2009)

That structure is very nice ... I will explore.

I was looking over the Train-LI website again and it looks like it might be cost effective to use their switch drives that have the DCC built in. That would get rid of some of the stuff I need to protect 


I also was rereading Greg's website on his recommendations for DCC systems and stressing not to purchase something that will be outgrown in short order. That will probably slow down my decision on what to get for a DCC system.


Tom


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom so far I have six of the Train-Li DCC switches installed . They work great and can be programed to operate at slow or fast speeds. I use the NCE wireless system which has worked great for my intended use. Cost a few bucks over some other systems but easy to use. Later RJD


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

RJ, if they work outside in the weather, they are worth it!!!

Ed


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2008)

I have used the switches from Train-Li with the embedded decoder. No housing needed. However, I prefer a geared Buhler switch motor (WA-2) with a Zimo MX82 decoder from Train-Li. I house the decoder in a small black sealed box from Jameco electronics (4x2x1). I painted one a lighter color and put a roof on it to make a shed with a drainage hole as others have mentioned. Others I have buried under some rocks. The rocks seem cooler, literally.


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