# RC Suggestions



## RailCrafter (Nov 8, 2012)

Good morning. This aging former live steamer is considering dabbling in the sparking end of the hobby. Being old school, I know very little about RC. How difficult would it be to install RC in a RY Models EBT locomotive? Any suggestions on which RC might be best? Many thanks.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome to MLS. 

Try a search of this site. Peruse the subforums regarding RC and you will find "tons" of information on RC.

I only have two locomotives now running RC (wireless). My preference is Airwire (CVP Products). Here is a link:http://www.cvpusa.com/airwire_system.php

There are many options available for wireless control and NOT necessarily battery power either. Others will surely step in here and offer other alternatives.

Good luck.


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

The RY models EBT loco is a very fine design,and well executed. It is however, a difficult R/C install. The tender requires some modification to allow effective wire routing, and there are some additional factors. I have done 2 of them . As the model is all metal, you must consider this in any modifications or system design. Much of the complexity will be determined by your level of desired performance , such as lighting circuits. Depending on which R/C system you choose, there are are many options for control beyond the speed, direction , and whistle/bell. 

Jonathan 
www.rctrains.com


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Rail Crafter - Since you are a live steamer, you might be interested in using a system that utilizes your existing Spektrum radio transmitter (or other hobby radio). Both G-Scale Graphics and RCS of Australia can provide systems that utilize 2.4GHZ hobby transmitters, and provide all of the control functions you need.


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## RailCrafter (Nov 8, 2012)

Jonathan and Del, When in live steam, I did not use use RC, so this is virgin territory for me. I'm not much for sound, so I guess I'd simply want speed control, direction, maybe a whistle and bell, and the ability to turn on the headlight. Dave


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

hate to point out the obvious here,, 

... Whistle & Bell = Sound..! 

proper decoder can turn on head light to front, or on tender in reverse directions...\\ 

Dirk :- }


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The RY models EBT loco is a very fine design,and well executed. It is however, a difficult R/C install. 
Jonathan, 

I'd have to say it isn't as difficult an install as some locos. Rog reviewed the prototype and asked RY Models to install the switch for track/battery power and for the connector to the tender. The sound chuff cam is pre-wired to the connector. I wish more locos had that. 











If you put a sound system speaker in the tender, you don't have to do anything to the loco. (That's how I did it.) The tender comes apart with 3 or 4 screws so you can put everything inside. The water fill hatch is hinged so you can mount the switch and battery charge socket on top. 


Any suggestions on which RC might be best? 
Dave,

(There's a 'tips' page on RY's website that covers a lot of the wiring, etc. http://www.richyodermodels.com/rym_loco_ebt14_tips.htm .)

My EBT #15 has two sets of NiMH batteries in the water tanks alongside the coal area - I found some packs designed for a paint gun. I used an old RCS Elite r/c system, plus an even older Soundtraxx Sierra sound card.

Roger does conversions for RY Models, and he uses Li (lithium-iron) batteries and the Airwire r/c system plus Phoenix sound - a more modern approach than mine!

If you send me a message with your email, I can send typical wiring diagrams, etc., and help you with the install ?


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete: Areas of concern on this loco: 
If you use a metal charge jack, it must be isolated from the metal tender body 
The tender has a cast strut in the body across the center bottom which can limit battery placement and easy wire routing,(to make the tender easily serviceable in the future) and the strut must be dealt with in planning. 
In my experience , the chuff cam is not reliable in service, as outdoor running will crud it up. They work for a while, and always eventually fail, so the cam is a non factor 
If i remember correctly, there was some minor difficulty with the lighting, as all circuits were tied together or something like that, so full functionality required mods 
Loco pickups still must be removed, in order to ensure no future problem, and to reduce or eliminate EMI from the sliding metal . 

All this is certainly just a bump in the road, but the poster is a beginner, this is maybe not the best choice for a first project, yiou are not a beginner, so your view is different 

Jonathan 
www.rctrains.com


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

In my experience , the chuff cam is not reliable in service, as outdoor running will crud it up. They work for a while, and always eventually fail 
Mine is working just fine after 3 years. You do have to sand the surface to make the whole thing work as it should when you first get the loco! 
And while the points you mention may be valid, I haven't removed the pickups, nor modified the lighting, nor did i have any trouble isolatiing the battery socket. 

My observation is that most locos are difficult. The new plug-and-play locos with the super socket may be much easier - I have no experience with them. 

Dave - have you looked at the Bachmann C-19 with the socket in the tender ? EBT had one of those too!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I tried using chuff cams on many locos, and every one of them required enough maintenance that I eliminated them. 

Typically they got dirty/oxidized/misaligned so that I would get missing and/or double chuffs. 

Maybe this is not so noticeable or bothersome to some, it was just not workable for me. 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'm not a fan of mechanical cams (wipers and contacts), but I've never had issues with magnetic or optical triggers, except the IR sensors I was using when living in upstate NY were pretty worthless once I moved to Colorado--much more sunlight. If you find the mechanical cam to be bothersome, on the EBT mikes, the tender wheels are 24", the drivers 48". You can use 2 magnets on the tender wheels and have properly-timed chuff trigers relative to the drivers. 

As for R/C control, lots of flavors to choose from, all will most likely prove adequate for your needs. I use Airwire, QSI/G-wire, and Aristo controls and like them all equally. If you're not looking to expand into a fleet of sparkies, I'd recommend either Tony's or Del's systems that use the Spektrum stuff. You can get a Tx/Rx set fairly inexpensively, and you'll also have the Tx that you can use for your steamers down the road should you so desire. 

Later, 

K


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## RailCrafter (Nov 8, 2012)

My mind is spinning right now. I might have to hire someone to do this.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By RailCrafter on 10 Nov 2012 09:36 PM 
My mind is spinning right now. I might have to hire someone to do this. 

Roger (rgseast at gmail.com) has been doing conversions for RY Models for a few years. I suggest you ask him!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By RailCrafter on 10 Nov 2012 09:36 PM 
My mind is spinning right now. I might have to hire someone to do this. 








I wish I had opted for less and done that!







Blue smoke isn't very pretty!

John


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