# Designing my next building



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

The past few days I've been trying to decide on a design for the next building in my town of Dos Manos. It will be positioned next to the rock shop, with stairs in between leading up to another structure higher on the hill. I'm using an old 3D modeling program to work out the design. At first I was thinking of making two narrow buildings, something like this:










The problem is that the two buildings would have to be extremely narrow, bordering on caricature. My first two structures are already very small, so I don't want to push it too much, especially since the next buildings will be much larger. So here's the design I came up with for a single building:










I think the proportions are much better with this one. What do you think? BTW, the textures shown here are just a rough approximation.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Ray 
Can't see the pictures 
Dennis


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Sorry, there was a problem with the file type. Should be fixed now.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Links are still broken.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

does it work here? 



















you need to remove the "www." from http://www.raydunakin.com/IRRWebfiles/DosBuildingsTest2.jpg for it to work


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

Nice designs, if they are close to a backdrop they should be OK, would a tree or some other 'view block' be able to be placed by the edge? Thus hiding the lack of depth?

What did you use to 'design' them? Sketch up?


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray, Is there a chance that you could also post a pic of the proposed site to help with our imput? 

Dave


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

The buildings look great. The only thing I'm wondering is where the stairs go on each building? They go up about half way on each building but I don't see a door that the steps lead to?


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim they go to a building on a higher level of the site behind and above these


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

They'll be placed at the base of a cliff. There's actually more depth than it looks like in the renderings -- the viewing angle foreshortens it. 

The stairs will eventually go to another building above and behind these. I'm still figuring that out -- that building may actually end up as an addition to this structure. I should also mention that I didn't bother putting in all the fine detail -- the images are just to rough out the general appearance.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Ok here are two shots of the site:
 








 








 
 
I tried dropping in the 3D model images to get a rough idea of how they might look. I know I didn't get the perspective right, especially on the first one, so I'm not sure how accurate these are. But both designs look pretty good:








 








 


Now I'm not sure which one I like better!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By peter bunce on 28 Aug 2009 02:26 PM   
What did you use to 'design' them? Sketch up?



 
I used an ancient Mac 3d modeling and animation program called StudioPro. It's about 15 years old and was fairly sophisticated back in the day.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

I love old mac programs. They are simple, work well and very flexible. 

Ray, looks like you have room for all three! 

-Brian


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I think what I probably should do is cut up some cardboard and make a pair of boxes to the dimensions of the buildings. That would give me a much better idea whether or not the buildings would look right, or look ridiculous.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

I'm in favor of the taller building. 
But right now the words to define why won't come - something about mass and bulk and anchoring the scene.


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## Dennis Cherry (Feb 16, 2008)

I like the second building. It fits the area better. 

Just my 2 cents worth.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

I think the way they are designed, the two buildings fit better with the current scene. I feel the single building overpowers things, it screams look at me not them.

Possibly the problem I am having with the single building is the cut stone work showing. Could you try it as a false front? Might fit better that way.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I dislike the two buildings--the arched windows, to my eye, make a tall skinny building look even taller and skinnier. I'd go with the second picture


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Both buildings look great to me. Structurally, the second, taller building, would be not possible. You can't build a build with rock walls that sit on top of an all window and door front without substantially larger column. The weight would crush the front of the building. Somehow, you need to fit a bigger rock column in between the windows and doors. Then again, this is a model, so do what you like. If it were me, I'd be making these buildings from Precision Board and plastic door/window frames.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

I'll have to find the books, but in that era there were a good number of wooden buildings made to look like stone. Some even had sand mixed in the paint for texture. 
Gimme a couple seconds, think I know where one book is. 

Okay here we go, 
The Houses We Live In, An Identification Guide to the History and Style of American Domestic Architecture, Copyright 2002 PRC Publishing, General Editor Jeffrey Howe. 

And somewhere in this one is a B&W photo of an abandoned bank or something done up that way Virginia & Truckee, The Bonanza Road, by Mallory Hope Ferrell. 
Found it - pp. 158, 159, a Miners' Union hall.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Posted By Mike Reilley on 29 Aug 2009 10:59 AM 
Somehow, you need to fit a bigger rock column in between the windows and doors. 

Yeah, that's a good point for making a better looking building. Probably a bit wider on the corners too with a bit of space between window and corner.
Sorry if sounding overly critical, don't mean to be dissing your project.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Posted By Ray Dunakin on 28 Aug 2009 09:25 PM 
I think what I probably should do is cut up some cardboard and make a pair of boxes to the dimensions of the buildings. That would give me a much better idea whether or not the buildings would look right, or look ridiculous. 


That sounds like a plan!
Second one has been referred to rock, but is the texture actually rock or weathered wood?

Hard to tell.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Just to clarify... the textures used on these CG images aren't 100% accurate depictions of the materials that will be used. The taller, single building is supposed to be wood.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, I vote for design number two, although I do agree that this building's mass does tend to overpower the existing structures. So I'm wonderin' does the new two story have to be right next to the current bulidings? Or was the ikdea to build a block? Sure do like building 2, even if it is virtual.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Joe, it's all going to be part of a block of closely-spaced buildings.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here are just a few examples of buildings I've seen in old mining towns, dating from the late 1870's to the early 1900's... This newpaper office in Eureka, NV was made of local brick and stone:










This building in Eureka, NV has sandstone on the bottom, and brick on the top:










This beautiful little house is made of brick, on a sandstone foundation:










Many of Tonopah's buildings are made of brick, or cut stone blocks such as these:



















Places like Goldfield, Rhyolite, and Randsburg all had brick buildings, cut stone buildings, field stone buildings, adobe, etc. Plus a few oddities like bottle houses. Stone and brick buildings in Goldfield, early 1900's:


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, Put me down for building number 1 and building number three. I like those a lot!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I built a very simple mockup of the two smaller buildings. I didn't bother mocking up the second floor of the building on the left... 










I determined that the second floor of both buildings could be extended back onto the rocks, giving each of them a good five inches of additional depth. So I reworked the 3D models. I eliminated the stairs, and replaced them with a wall and door -- the stairs to the second floor are now "implied", somewhere in the building. I also recessed the second floor on the wooden building a little; and I replaced the brick building's arches with rectangular doors and windows. 

As before, I did not bother putting in all the fine details such as doors and window mullions; and the textures shown are not necessarily the materials that will be used on the final models. 











Then I pasted the CG image into a photo of the town site: 











I like this version for three reasons... 

1. Extending the buildings back onto the hillside ties the town into the landscape and also breaks up the "row of boxes" look a little bit. 

2. The added depth makes the narrow buildings seem a little more plausible. 

3. Using two narrow buildings here, creates a nice transition to the larger buildings that will be added later. 


Any thoughts/comments?


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

I like your latest version best. I'm sure you've done your homework and I'm off the mark but the stairs in both option 1 and 2 looked too big, probably owing to the narrow nature of the structures rather than your proposed stair width. Anyway just my 2 cents worth. Oh and I agree with the others, really nice work with the photo editing etc. I'm envious.


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

I like this version for three reasons... 

1. Extending the buildings back onto the hillside ties the town into the landscape and also breaks up the "row of boxes" look a little bit. 

2. The added depth makes the narrow buildings seem a little more plausible. 

3. Using two narrow buildings here, creates a nice transition to the larger buildings that will be added later. 


Any thoughts/comments? 
Yep, will comment that it sounds right on the money.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Ray 
With the massive stone work you have, maybe have your bases vary in height , having your buildings on a sloping street instead of a flat level street. Giving your streets more of a real or prototype setting, back in those days it was easier to build on what nature gave them, as to flatten and build up as today, with modern equippment. 
I like thinking outside the box. I love your styles you have chosen in the last pictures, since you have them on paper set them up 1-1/2" each and see what they look like, easy to change on paper. 
That is my thought, with my thought and 6 bucks you can get a cup of coffee at starbucks. 
Dennis


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I made one more 3D mockup:

As you can see I made a few modifications to the building on the left. I also changed the building on the right from brick to stone, and went back to arched windows for the second floor. As before, this image still doesn't have every detail in place, but it's close enough now that I've finally started work on the actual models. I'm building the left structure first. I began by building up the shops from styrene strips: 






















































I've finished the windows that go on either side of the door. Next, I'll make the door and join the three assemblies together. 

Addition from Peter Bunce - moderator

Ray, your post had most of the wider photos side by side, thus it was making it very wide and needing to slde the screen display sideways - I have adjusted it by a couple of taps of the space bar between photos them to make them conform and sit under each other, with a blank (two line) space between them. The last two being less wide I have left side by side.

It is thus a bit longer in length (which does not matter) and we can all see the very good looking work you have done in one fell swoop - very nice; thank you for the photos the finished work will look superb. Having done things like that myself I know they are very fiddly to make! 

Look forward to more photos when you can.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Nice work again Ray. I really like your construction/building methods so I keep tracking this thread for sure! Keep those pictures comming!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Peter, thanks for the adjustment!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I've finished assembling the shop windows and door:


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Excellent. I probably wouldn't leave such a finally detailed building outside. If your using styene plastice, a good coat of paint will help protect it from the UV rays. 

Terl


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, once again I am at a loss for words. Simply outstanding! And inspirational.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

More progress... most of the exterior walls don't need detailing as they will be hidden, so they went together pretty quickly. 





















I still have to detail the front of this small extension on the side. The door there will not have a window, so I'm just going to build the door right on the wall, and then build up siding around it. 












Here's a test fitting to see how the building will look alongside the others: 












I chiseled out some of the rocks on the cliff, to make room for the rear extension of the second story:


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## dltrains (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray that is really another nice build. Looks like it fit right in there


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow Ray, that is a great looking storefront, I love it. Keep up the great work. 

Chris


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Hmm, interesting, Ray, that you built a window module. On my Rider's Crossing, which is currently in model making limbo now that I am kinda back to working, I have been struggling over how to put the whole store froit window assembly (with recessed entry door) together. I have thought about gluing all the pieces onto the building base (1/4-inch acrylic), but that has stopped the project because the walls aren't up yet and I don't want to assemble the rest of the building around the front windows. I like your approach, though. Tell me, are the individual windows held together at the corners by, 4 x 4s or whatever? Neat idea! Your crafstmanship is flawless.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By joe rusz on 09 Sep 2009 09:33 PM 
Tell me, are the individual windows held together at the corners by, 4 x 4s or whatever? 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yes. I used .188" square styrene strips.
 
 
 
 
 
Your crafstmanship is flawless.

 


 
Thank you. Mostly, the flaws just don't show.      The building did come out wider than planned, though. When I started making the windows, I used the measurements of the simple "openings" on my 3D drawing. Because I didn't draw in the frames, those should have been the outside measurements, but I forgot and made used that for the inside dimensions on the actual windows.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Another update... 
I built the overhang that extends out over the sidewalk, and started on the roof for that portion of the building: 












That part of the roof is designed to lift off for access into the interior: 



















I also made the door at the side of the building, and added the siding. The door turned out a bit rough but it's supposed to be old and weathered so I think it'll be alright: 











I put in thick strips around the interior at the base, to support the floor; and near the top to support the ceiling: 










Pretty soon I'll be ready to start on the second floor.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely beautiful Ray!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Hmm, I don't know why the last two images are sideways. They weren't like that when I uploaded them.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I was going to suggest a door on the wall in that little alcove. Nice!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm working on the second floor of the building now. I decided to make working windows, mainly just to see if I could do it. It turned out to be pretty easy. Here's one window, unpainted and without glass. I'll add the glass after it's painted:


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's how I made my windows. You could glue both sashes in place if desired, but I chose to allow the lower sash to slide open or closed: 

I start by gluing together two pieces of .060" channel, side by side. There will be two of these for each window frame: 












I made the sashes from .020" x .080" strips. These are actually a little two thin; if I would doing it over I'd use strips that are .030" thick: 












Next I glue the top sash between the two sets of channels: 












Then I add the side jams. These are made from strips of .040" x .188" styrene. I glue them to the channels, one side at a time. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the top sash is in the forward channel, as shown: 





















Next comes the sill, which is also .040" x .188": 












The top piece, called the "head jam", is .040" x .125". It should be positioned along the front edge, leaving a gap at the rear of the window so that the sliding lower sash can be slid into the channel: 












The frame is now ready to add the trim: 












I used .040" x .125" strips for the trim on the top and sides. The bottom piece is .040" x .250". Next I extended the sill, using a piece of .040" x .080". At the top I added a piece of .040" square strip: 












In this photo you can see how the lower sash slides into the channel behind the top sash: 










.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray,

Great progress on your building. Using 2 pieces of channel for the sides of your windows to allow movement is another great idea that I'll store away. Thanks.

Doc


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's the second level of the building, in progress... 

The rear wall is only roughly textured, as it will be against the cliff and not easily visible. The right side wall is almost completely untextured, as it will butt up against the fourth building in the row. I just roughed up the styrene a little to help the paint adhere. Both the rear wall, and the right side wall, are made of .125" thick styrene sheet: 












The front wall and left wall are made of Evergreen "V-groove" siding, with .250" spacing. The siding is laminated onto .080" plain styrene sheets. I used a small piece of hacksaw blade, mounted in an X-acto knife handle, to scribe wood grain into the "boards": 












Here's a look at the bottom of the second floor structure. The bracing not only provides support but also keys the second floor into the top of the first story structure: 













This is the underside of the roof, showing the bracing. The triangular pieces are cut from .125" thick sheet. The rest of the bracing is just random scrap pieces of styrene strips. The roof "planks" are Evergreen "V-groove" with .5" spacing. The roof only has eaves on one side, since the other side will be against the fourth building. At this stage, the roof is just a simple peak, but later I will add a special structure to deal with drainage on the non-eave side:












Here are a couple shots showing how the building fits into the scene, with the second floor supported by the first floor in front, and by the cliff in back. Notice how some of the "planks" on the facade appear to be raised... I accomplished this by gluing strips of .005" thick styrene, to represent boards which have been warped or loose with age: 
























The windows on this part of the building won't be installed until after everything is painted. I still have to add trim and other details to the outside of the building, and detail the interiors. 


...


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Some more progress... 
I added the trim and eaves detail to the underside of the roof, starting with the trim which helps to conceal the joint between the roof and the top of the walls. I used the slick peel-off backing from a sticker as a spacer when gluing the trim pieces to the roof: 























Then I added pieces representing the ends of the rafters, supporting the eaves: 












I built up one side of the roof where it will abut the next building. It's hard to tell from the photos but this new section of the roof is high at the front, so the water will run off to the rear: 

















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To prevent rain from getting into the building where the roof meets the "false front", I made a sort of internal rain gutter, using an "H" column. Small holes at the top of the wall on each side let the moisture flow out: 


















.... 





Next I added the trim along the corners of the building, and the fancy stuff at the top of the "false front". The brackets at the top were carved out of .125" x .250" styrene rods, using a Dremel with a cutting wheel and also a small drill bit: 
























The posts in front of the building were made from square styrene rod, with short segments of square brass tube added: 








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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

After the trim was finished, I painted the entire building with a coat of white primer, inside and out. Next I painted the interior of the second level with a pale yellowish color, and brushed some dark green and brown paint onto the floor. It's not perfect but it doesn't have to be. Curtains and furnishings will hide the flaws:













The lower level of the building is where most of the interior detail will be. The floor was painted separately, then glued into place. For now, I decided to keep the interior white with a tan wainscot. The wainscot was made from grooved siding with a half-rod trim at the top, and a rectangular strip along the bottom. The wainscot was painted, then glued into place. I also built a false door and glued it to the rear interior wall. This will give the viewer the impression that there is more to this tiny structure than meets the eye. The rear of the building is hidden so it's easy to pull off the deception:

































At this point I discovered a small mistake... I had forgotten to add the vertical mullions to the window on the front door. Putting them in at this stage of the project was a pain, but I got it done: 



















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The rest of the interior detail will be added after the exterior painting has been finished.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Painting the exterior....


To prevent spattering the interior, I put some paper behind the windows. This must be done gently on the first floor of the building, to prevent damaging the window mullions. 









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... 
The building will be painted to represent an old structure that has weathered, peeled paint. So the first step is to give it an undercoat resembling weathered wood. I use thin washes of craft acrylics, mostly Apple Barrel brand and also Michael's "house" brand. Be sure to buy the flat version, not the gloss. As you can see from the first photo, I like to build up the color a little at a time, allowing each coat to dry before adding more: 










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The first couple of coats are done using "Nutmeg Brown". I also added a few streaks of "King's Gold" (yellow). Then I applied some "Espresso", a darker brown, and later some mixes of Espresso, "pewter gray" and black. I didn't go into too much detail because most of this "wood" effect will be covered with the "peeling" paint. 



















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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

That is looking very good indeed, I like the paint job, thanks for the very helpful photos.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Another progress update... 


With the "wood" underlayer finished, it was time to add the "peeled paint" effect. I combine two methods... one uses a masking liquid to create small blotches where paint has flaked off. I've tried rubber cement in the past, but found it difficult to work with. Last time I tried Microscale's "Micro Mask". This was easier to use than the rubber cement but still not great. It sometimes required scrubbing the piece to remove all the tiny blobs of mask; and the blue dye in the mask has a tendency to stain my acrylic paints. I wanted something that would work the same way but was colorless and easy to remove. 
.... 

I soon came up with a "sweet solution": Wilton's "Sparkle Gel", available from Michael's. It's a sugary cake decorating gel normally used to write or draw on pastries. It dries to a rubbery texture and washes off easily with water. . . 









...


I squeezed some gel onto a paper plate, then used a coarse brush from Home Depot to dab small blotches of gel onto the model and let it dry. Here's a shot of how it looks on the model: 









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The second technique I use for peeling paint is to brush on some Testor's Enamel Thinner right before applying the color coat. The water-based acrylic paint doesn't mix with the thinner. As a result, the paint streaks and follows the scribed "wood grain", creating a very realistic worn and aged appearance. I found it works best to brush the paint on in the direction of the grain wherever possible. 

. . . 








...


Let the paint dry thoroughly, then wash off the gel. It helps to rub your hand over it under running water. You can also use a soft paint brush to gently dislodge bits of gel and paint from finer areas of the model. 











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More to come...


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's how the storefront looked after applying the peeled paint, and before painting the trim or doing any touchup: 










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It was ok but for some reason it just didn't quite look right to me. It seemed like the peeled paint was too blotchy, and too "busy" looking. So I decided to tone it down a bit by adding a wash of white paint to most of the store front. I figured these areas were most accessible and the most likely to be repainted... 

After doing that, I touched up the places where I'd gotten white paint on the trim. Then I used the cake decorating gel to mask off the white areas around the edges of the trim. I had to thin the gel a little with water to do that, and applied it with a fine brush.

Once the gel had dried, I started painting the trim. I decided to use only the enamel thinner technique to achieve the weather paint effect on the trim. So I wet the trim with Testor's enamel thinner and brushed on the trim color (Apple Barrel's "Tapestry Wine"). This worked out well. When the paint had thoroughly dried, I washed off the gel mask. Here's how the model looks now: 










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I can see in these photos that there's still a few places that need touching up... 










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Eventually I plan to add a worn, faded sign across the false front... 










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. . . . 


Here's how it looks next to the other buildings... 










. . . 











. . . 




Next I need to do some more touch up, and I'm still debating whether or not I like the amount of peeled paint. 

Anyway, I also need finish building, painting and installing the windows on the second level. I also need to add doorknobs to the doors, glaze the windows, add roofing, and other small exterior details; and then do the interior.


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## silverstatespecialties (Jan 2, 2008)

*WOW!!! Ray, that is AWESOME!! What beautiful work!*


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's what I've done since the last update... .
. 
. Added the roofing material. I ran some .001" thick brass shim stock through a paper crimper. The corrugated sheets were then cut to fit the various areas of the roof. Then the corrugated panels were sprayed with Rustoleum's "Cold Galvanizing Compound", basically an acrylic-based zinc paint. 
. . 
The sheet metal was glued to the roof using Liquid Nails. I started with some uncorrugated strips in the trough area of the roof, then applied the corrugated panels: . 
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. 
The roof looked good, but too new. I wanted to simulate the appearance of cheap, low-grade galvanized metal which has become aged and rusty. My first attempt was to use a chemical approach. I brushed on a thin coat of Sophisticated Finishes "Iron Metallic Surfacer". When that dried, it was treated with their "Rust Antiquing Solution". Unfortunately this didn't work out as I had hoped. The iron coat was too thin to produce sufficient rust, and the rusting solution blackened the zinc. . 
. I tried a couple more coats and got a good rust affect, but it looked like it had never been galvanized. So I gave up on the chemicals and did it the old fashioned way -- I painted it. It's not perfect, but it'll do: 
. .








. . 
As discussed previously, I was unsatisfied with the appearance of the wood showing through the peeled paint on the building. So I went over most of it with a thin wash of white, which helped a lot. I used more white on the front of the building, and less on the side, leaving some areas there unmodified. . 
. Next I installed .010" thick Lexan "glass" in the storefront windows. This was a pain. In the future I will try to construct such storefronts so that the window frames can be built up separately and installed after receiving the glass. . 
. 
I also finished and installed the upstairs windows. I had considered leaving them off until after I'd detailed the interior, but I didn't want to wait that long. . 
. 
I added doorknobs to the doors, and a small "PRIVATE" sign on the door leading upstairs. I built up a "wood" frame for the sign over the storefront, and printed up a vinyl sign for it. Here are a few shots of the building, alone and in position on the layout: . 
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Although it looks fairly complete, the building is still a long way from being finished. I still have to get decals made for some additional signs. I also need to add minor exterior details such as light fixtures, plumbing/electrical hardware, smokejacks, etc. And of course I need to create and install all the interior details, which will be a pretty big chore. . 
.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

They look good together - nice work, and thanks for the photos.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks Peter.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here are a couple closeup photos I shot this afternoon... Nothing special but I liked how they looked: 
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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Ray, those low angle pictures are great; it's just looks like if you've taken pictures of real houses, standing in front of them. 
The level of realism is very high in your models.


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## AzRob (Sep 14, 2009)

I agree! A very high level of realism. I'd be convinced it was real too!


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

The reflections in the windows of the buildings across the street really add to the realism, but I gotta ask... are there buildings across the street? Are they full sized or some of your other models?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

The reflections are of the back of our house, and possibly the neighbor's house as well.


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray, 
Your stuff just knocks me over. Thanks for sharing the inspirational pics. 
Dave


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray 

The tutorials on your weathering techniques were very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to describe them. Your results are wonderful.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

No new pics, but here's a brief update... 

I built up some electric meters, smoke jacks and a few other small exterior details. Since I'll need these for many of my buildings I decided to mold them so I can cast duplicates. Then I discovered that my silicone mold compound has turned to rubber in the jar. Doh! I hate the short shelf-life of that stuff. 

A while back someone posted pics here of some bottles they turned from acrylic rod. My first attempt at this several months ago failed, but those pics and the info supplied inspired me to try again. Success! I've managed to make a half dozen or so already, just between other projects. Also, I remembered reading the posts in another forum from the Polish aircraft modeler, who mentioned that he used toothpaste to polish parts. So I used that to smooth the bottle after shaping them. Turned out real nice. 

Now I'm working on a swamp cooler (old fashioned evaporative cooler that predates modern air-conditioning). Maybe I'll mold that too, when my shipment of mold compound gets here. Lots of old desert buildings used swamp coolers. 

Last night I found out that three of the lights inside my rock shop had burned out prematurely, so I'm replacing those and trying figure out how to prevent it happening again.


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## Burl (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been following this with great interest and I can't wait to see how the details come out. If you start casting, get ready for the business proposals. ;]


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