# Basement Rail Yard Project Underway



## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Having taken in all the tips and advice and ideas from everyone in my earlier thread (project discussion thread) I have begun construction this week.

Everything is moving along nicely and its turning out pretty good. 
I have also noticed that building a house these days is not an exact science.









Here are some pics of my progress so far;

My workshop, formally known as the wifes parking space







, I made a jig so I could drill all the support beams with the drill press, really made this move along


 
And now onto the basement; I used 1/2" EMT conduits with 3/8" x 2' all-threads 
 
The supports for the first 8 feet,

 
Sixteen feet completed so far, sixteen to go;


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Looking good Ron, when you going to invite me over for some







and Trains..............


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## work4fil (Jan 4, 2008)

I am liking what you have done so far. Thank you for sharing!

What are the dimensions of your supports? How wide is your plywood and how far below do your brackets hang? I am in the process of hanging track in my garage and have been playing with different sizes, but have yet to find my sweet spot.

Keep up the good work.

Fil


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 20 May 2011 11:06 PM 
Looking good Ron, when you going to invite me over for some







and Trains..............









Your welcome anytime Nick, just drop me a line when your going to be the area.

Ron

PS I'll need time to hide all the Aristo equipment though


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By work4fil on 21 May 2011 11:30 AM 
I am liking what you have done so far. Thank you for sharing!

What are the dimensions of your supports? How wide is your plywood and how far below do your brackets hang? I am in the process of hanging track in my garage and have been playing with different sizes, but have yet to find my sweet spot.

Keep up the good work.

Fil


For the rail yard support I'm using 30" 2x4's, the plywood base is 2 foot wide by 3/4" thick. I chose this width so I can have a 3 rail rail yard. 
The plywood road bed is 16 3/4" from the bottom of the support rods. The reason for the height I chose is two fold, 1) I wanted to be able to walk around and under the road bed 
without worrying about hitting my head on anything, and 2) the exit from the basement window is at that height.

Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Made a lot of progress today, the basement part is almost finished. all thats left is to cutout the roadbed for the window exit.

Here is the completed 30 foot rail yard;


 

Here is the completed road bed supports for the window exit, I used 12 1/2 foot curves for the transition to the rail yard, 
all thats left is to cut out the curved road bed, and then it's off to the outside part


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

That looks great. Can't wait to see the finished project. 

-Kevin.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Looks great. I know your going to enjoy not having to haul out your equipment when you want to run. 

Now if it would just stop raining in my end of the woods I might be able to get some dirtwork done so I can lay track.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Ron. Should make a big difference when it comes to train operations. Later RJD


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Hey, I have a basement window above grade and considered something similar.....going to keep and eye on this. 

Chris


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I finished the rail yard today it came out really nice and very solid, it will be able to support anything I can park up there (even Me,I just had to test it out







). 
I was going to paint it but the wood looks really nice so I think I will leave it as is.
Now it's on to the outside.

Here are the pictures;


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Looking good. Hopefully the plywood won't acquire moisture and sag and hopefully, you will not want to later finish your basement. 

Dave V


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## Heavy_56 (Dec 27, 2007)

Looks great. Impressive stock pile of rolling stock


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Looks Great and functional. 

If the plywood should start to sag you can stop that by adding 1/2 x1/2 or 3/4 x /34 inch angle iron to the bottom of the plywood at a later date. 

I have a drafting table that a close friend gave me 30 Years a got and he has passed on. I keep it as a memento The swamp kooler has a effect on the particleboard top and it sagged. 

I added one inch angle iron to it and brought it back up level and it is firm. Three pieces spaced equally apart. 

JJ


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Thanks for the great tip I'll keep that in mind.

While doing some more testing with the USAT GG1 I and the USAT streamliners, the longest closest consist I have, I had to add a longer straight right after the curve and the first straight.
The cars on transition from the left curve to the right turn would hit each other after adding the straight section prior to the first switch they made it no problem.

I did notice that while I can drive in the Mallet on the center siding when I try to back it out the rear pilot and the tender separate sometimes. Anyone know a way to make that connection more solid?

Thanks, Ron


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## flats (Jun 30, 2008)

Bob, Mind did the same, I found a nipple that fixed on oil spout that 
would tight fit on the tip sticking up up from the engine to keep the 
bar from the tender sliding off, has worked well for me. Also cut a pice 
0f wood notched to keep the pressure off the bar when backing long 
string of cars, this also helped a lot. 

Ken owner of K&K the road to nowhere


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Looks great! Like your suspension system. Can't wait to see the window transition to outdoor track.


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

I don't understand why you are spanning the joists with the conduit. What is the advantage over using simple angle brackets attached to the joists? 

Trot, the head-tilting, fox...


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By TrotFox on 27 May 2011 02:06 PM 
I don't understand why you are spanning the joists with the conduit. What is the advantage over using simple angle brackets attached to the joists? 

Trot, the head-tilting, fox... 

Two reasons,
The first and main reason is that it allows more flexibility in the placement of the crossbeams, especially on the curved section. I also have cables and wires run on the inside of several of the joices that would have had to be moved if I used hangers.
The second to a lesser degree was cost. The 10' conduits cost me about $1.75 each, and I got about 6 supports from each. The quality threaded all thread hangers cost about $1.75 each while not a lot of money 32 of them do add up.

Ron


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

This came out nice.







Solid and good craftmenship.







This is a very convenient way to store trains and bring them to operation.

Job well done. It's time for a







.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Looks really nice, but it aint loaded up yet...


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I started the outside section today.
It was only 95' out a nice balmy day for digging 2 foot deep holes








I finished 7 of the eleven holes before almost melting.









Here is a picture of the work zone in action,
(I am pretty sure that this is how all construction sites look







)


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok I thought I was a glutton for punishment Sunday tilling up an area 8 foot by 20 foot by hand in 90 degree heat. You win! Nice work by the way! 

Chas


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Haha, nice touch with the umbrella and the fan.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I think Mother Nature is screwing with me guys









Last week I was doing the inside basement section and it was 75-80' and nice.

This week it was time to do the outside.
I dug 11 2' deep holes in 93-95' hot and humid weather and cemented in 8 of them. I ran out of concrete or else they would have been finished.

Now that all the hard labor is finished its back to 75-80' with a nice breeze









here is a pic of my progress so far, if you look closely you'll see the 10 pounds I lost this week somewhere


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Yeah, it almost feels chilly tonight.


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Ron, 

Very excellently done. The methods look familiar. 

-Ted


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

First of all that construction site is too neat.

Second. That is not a Umbrella. That is a precision industrial shade generating shade machine. ( The New River and Western paid quite a bit of money for one. I forgot what 89.00 comes to in 1:29 scale money.)

Where did you get the industrial breeze generator?









Third You are doing a wonderful job. Keep up the good work and keep up with the pictures. We are very interested in how you are going to get around that gate.









JJ


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

"That is a precision industrial shade generating shade machine." 

JJ, the Department of Redundancy Department would like to thank you for promoting their cause! 

John


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Ted Doskaris on 02 Jun 2011 08:25 PM 
Ron, 

Very excellently done. The methods look familiar. 

-Ted 

One of the guys sent me a link to your post on Greg's site I did give you props in the planning thread







. 
I went a little heavier with mine because I was going to use it for storage and they had the 3/8 rod in stock and on sale. 
Great info as always Ted








Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By John J on 04 Jun 2011 07:10 AM 
First of all that construction site is too neat.

Second. That is not a Umbrella. That is a precision industrial shade generating shade machine. ( The New River and Western paid quite a bit of money for one. I forgot what 89.00 comes to in 1:29 scale money.)

Where did you get the industrial breeze generator?









JJ 


The Industrial Breeze Generator was acquired from the ACD of the DOH (Air Circulation Department at the Depot of Home's)









Ron


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Ron, 

That's a beautiful home and property with all that space you have - and with a full stand up basement, too. 

I like your sturdy construction. The 3/4 inch plywood and 2 x 4 supports allows for greater distance between the bigger threaded rod supports that you are using. (I had to use smaller materials to get things into my tight spaces with minimal standing or crouch down room.) 

How tall is your basement, and is your suspended layout at eye level or above? 

if you wanted to, could you expand your outdoor layout beyond the white picket fence? 
(Maybe home owner's association rules would prohibit it?) 

The support posts in the concrete for your outdoor layout look like they may be PVC sewer pipe material. Is that what you are using? 

For what little I have done for my outdoor extended layout, I had used left over pressure treated peeler poles. I hope to resume on the extension this year, but sill have not gotten to it. 
So your ideas of the supports and construction techniques are appreciated. 

Thank you for sharing your experiences; 

-Ted


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 04 Jun 2011 08:57 AM 
"That is a precision industrial shade generating shade machine." 

JJ, the Department of Redundancy Department would like to thank you for promoting their cause! 

John 

I use to write technical manuals for the government Redundancy is a hard habbit to break. 


Also some shade machines do not generate shade.

JJ


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Ted Doskaris on 04 Jun 2011 12:16 PM 
Ron, 

That's a beautiful home and property with all that space you have - and with a full stand up basement, too. 

I like your sturdy construction. The 3/4 inch plywood and 2 x 4 supports allows for greater distance between the bigger threaded rod supports that you are using. (I had to use smaller materials to get things into my tight spaces with minimal standing or crouch down room.) 

How tall is your basement, and is your suspended layout at eye level or above? 

if you wanted to, could you expand your outdoor layout beyond the white picket fence? 
(Maybe home owner's association rules would prohibit it?) 

The support posts in the concrete for your outdoor layout look like they may be PVC sewer pipe material. Is that what you are using? 

For what little I have done for my outdoor extended layout, I had used left over pressure treated peeler poles. I hope to resume on the extension this year, but sill have not gotten to it. 
So your ideas of the supports and construction techniques are appreciated. 

Thank you for sharing your experiences; 

-Ted 

Thanks, the "boss" picked it out, and we had it built. I took my vacation during it's construction and was there watching the entire process (always wanted to see one built and just to make sure it was done correctly). 
The builders site manager tried to tell me I wasn't allowed there while it was being built. I told him ok thats fine, just give me back my down payment and I will leave, I was allowed to stay









The basement measures just over 8 feet from the bottom of the 2x10 joist, the bottom of the roadbed is about 6 1/3 feet from the floor. I made it high enough to make sure I don't have to worry about hitting my head anywhere (thanks for that tip)

I plan on expanding the layout to the right. It's about 120 feet to the end of the yard then I'm turning to the right, into phase 3 which will be about a 100 x 31 foot area. I have about 1100 feet of track waiting to be used.

The pipe I used is 2" schedule 40 PVC it can be used in both pressure and WDV applications, it's from Lowes item #23832.
I also used 2" x 1/4" x 8' PVC trim strips with 2" x 2" PVC stock to join the trim strips. I got it all from Lowes, the trim strips were about $5 each.

Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I got a lot done this weekend, and should be able to wrap it up this week.

I made the removable section 72" long. I bolted on two 4' angels to support the 48" span where the gate is. I used 1"x1/4"x 10" plate steel strips on the ends. I also sits on one of 
the main support posts. The strips will be attached to the elevated side with 1 1/2" bolts with wing nuts. On the brick side the steel strips sit on the bricks and allow the roadbed to be flush to the wall.
I may add alignment pins if they are needed but with the PVC board flush and square to the wall I dont think I will have any problems.


 
 
 
  

Here is the rest of the road bed support before and after final trimming


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I finished the track work from the basement to the layout today. I only have to install the curved switch and join it to the track then test it out.

Here are the pics of the completed roadbed and the grade to the layout as well as the level of the roadbed.
There is a zero grade for the first 5 feet from the basement window, then a 1.9% grade towards the layout, and the last four feet where the roadbed meets the wall is also zero grade;


 
 
 
 
 

Here is the finished product, the track is secured to the roadbed with 1" deck screws every two feet or so, the curves are about 14 foot. I walked the roadbed and it supported my weight with no problem, so I don't think I'll have any problems with my trains


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## WSOR (Jun 27, 2010)

How does the track go through the window and how is the window able to be closed?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I wonder if you could take a "Expansion track" section of track from Hillman or Split Jaw and make a slider for the window section. That way you would not have to remove a piece of track to close the widow.

I think both Hillman and Split Jaw make a section of track that compensates for expansion of the rials caused my heating and cooling. If I remember right one of those allows for quite a lot of slip.

JJ


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By WSOR on 07 Jun 2011 07:20 AM 
How does the track go through the window and how is the window able to be closed? 

I am going to have a 2 foot removeable section of track. I use the Train Li clamps so it only takes a minute to do. Ron


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Ron, 
Wow! very well Engineered. The PVC board is a great material it'll last forever. I would find a way to prevent water running onto the window sill. In the photo at the window it looks as though water will dump directly on the sill. You don't want water continuously wetting the sill. Flashing the sill may help and cut the PVC back somewhat the rail will span a few inches easily. Good luck.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I think your project turned out very well. I love how the project foreman tried to get you to leave when they were building your house. Thats why I dont trust any contractor, they always try "shortcuts". I do all my own contracting work, then i know where I messed up or not.


You realize that you now have another mowing obsticle.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

We have a new guy in our club that I wish he could see this and get off dead center and do something with his trains. Very same set up out the window.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Your work looks great. A nice clean method of getting your trains in and out of the house. I still carry my trains out. 

By the way, I have the very same set of horses. How do you like yours. I have never been totally satisfied with my set. I found that they had too much movement when set up. I did some renovations to them and it has helped. In the process they lost the ability to sit on uneven surfaces. I never had the occasion to use that feature anyway.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

They work really well, nice and sturdy and compact, never had any issues with them.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By ddevoto on 07 Jun 2011 08:29 AM 
Ron, 
Wow! very well Engineered. The PVC board is a great material it'll last forever. I would find a way to prevent water running onto the window sill. In the photo at the window it looks as though water will dump directly on the sill. You don't want water continuously wetting the sill. Flashing the sill may help and cut the PVC back somewhat the rail will span a few inches easily. Good luck. 

Thanks for the tip, I'll get one of those plastic covers and mod it for the train to go through.
Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I finished the project today!! 
No more carrying rolling stock from the basement to the layout







.
I removed the outer curve and spliced in a Nickle Plated brass Train-Li R7-R10 curved switch, then re-bent both ends of the curve to match the curved switch using Train-Li's dual rail bender (note the product placement is intended







they both are works of art IMO).
The final product is one smooth, continuous curve with a turnout leading to the basement. I will make a video of it this weekend.

I want to thank everyone for all the tips and idea's that made this such a smooth project.
Now it's on to planning phase 2 and 3









Here is the Train-Li Nickle Plated Brass R7/R10;

 
Installed; 
 

Here is the Finished product all ballasted, notice the even flow of the 14' curve;


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Ron, 

In addition to all your other excellent work, that is a beautifully done curved turnout that enters your layout, too. The "flow" is very natural. 

-Ted


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

Ron:

You are doing beautiful work. It's a pleasure to see when someone takes the time to do it right and and then it comes out so nice. You found out the hard way too that it is a pain in the (where ever) when you have to carry stuff from basement or garage to the layout and vice versa. It always takes time away from out hobby.

Great job on the entire setup and now I can't wait to see the continuation of the project









If you plan on much more concrete work, I recommend a little concrete mixer ( 1 1/4 cubic feet capacity) from haborfreight ~$150. Looks like the big ones, it's just smaller just right for us.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Track work looks good Ron. Rally came out nice. Should provide many of trouble free HRS of operation. Later RJD


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Ehhh....I feel cheated. Great pictures but none of the yard loaded up.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

The curved switch is a wonderful solution, Ron. It looks great.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Axel Tillmann on 08 Jun 2011 05:15 AM 
 Ron:

You are doing beautiful work. It's a pleasure to see when someone takes the time to do it right and and then it comes out so nice. You found out the hard way too that it is a pain in the (where ever) when you have to carry stuff from basement or garage to the layout and vice versa. It always takes time away from out hobby.

Great job on the entire setup and now I can't wait to see the continuation of the project









If you plan on much more concrete work, I recommend a little concrete mixer ( 1 1/4 cubic feet capacity) from haborfreight ~$150. Looks like the big ones, it's just smaller just right for us.









OOOOOOOOOOO I so have to get one of those!!


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By jake3404 on 08 Jun 2011 11:53 AM 
Ehhh....I feel cheated. Great pictures but none of the yard loaded up.










Hmm they all loaded up for me, maybe your connection timed out?

Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I will be having an open house on June 25 from 1pm to 5 pm, your all welcome to drop by although you guys have already seen everything







.
Send me a PM for Info

Ron


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ron, He wants photos with the sidings all full....he he he... it looks so ....empty. 

Thinking about it though my train workshop in the basment has a window in it but I'm not sure it is at gorund level? I think I need to bookmark this thread! 

Chas


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Posted By wchasr on 09 Jun 2011 01:49 PM 
Ron, He wants photos with the sidings all full....he he he... it looks so ....empty. 

Thinking about it though my train workshop in the basment has a window in it but I'm not sure it is at gorund level? I think I need to bookmark this thread! 

Chas 


Bingo


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By wchasr on 09 Jun 2011 01:49 PM 
Ron, He wants photos with the sidings all full....he he he... it looks so ....empty. 

Thinking about it though my train workshop in the basment has a window in it but I'm not sure it is at gorund level? I think I need to bookmark this thread! 

Chas 


Ohhhh doh! Lol. I plan on full testing this weekend  Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Here is the Rail Yard fully stocked


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Everything went smoothly today. I tested several long trains, a USAT GG1, an Aristo Mallet, and a Aristo E-8.
I was able to drive the GG1 and the E-8 both forward and backwards from the layout to the rail yard with no issues.
I think for the steam engines I will back them out so I can drive them in forward to the rail yard (until I finish phase 2, which will have a reversing loop).
I had one issue with the Mallet uncoupling from the tender, which won't be an issue backing it out because it's downhill to the layout.

Here is a video of the Inaugural Run from the newly completed basement railyard to Phase One of the BRR;


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You might add a little weight to the tender, the Aristo tenders are pretty light and can do with a bit more weight, especially if backing a long train. 

Regards, Greg


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Thanks for the tips. I found a collet lock that fits the draw bar pin so that should take care of that minor issue.

Just FYI I am going to have my first open house on the 25th of June, stop by if your in the area.

Ron


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