# LGB 12040 Switch Lantern



## sbendall (Mar 20, 2013)

Hi All,

Have an intresting issue with LGB switchs and using a LGB 12040 switch lantern. And hope someone can advise if these is a solution.

Attached to this posting is an LGB switch with a lantern attached, as you can see the throw arm on the swich has a loop on the other side in which the lantern drops into.

The other picture shows a swich without a lantern, but the throw arm is missing the loop for a lantern.

It would appear the LGB switch's availble use the throw arm without the loop. How are the lanterns meant to be connected or is there an adapter to get and if so does anyone have details on this part.

Or are replacement throw arms available ?

Thanks

Simon


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I bought one to play with. The motor unit has a throw bar that comes out both sides as it slides back and forth. The lantern attaches to the side opposition the track side of the motor. Thus as the throw bar slides to move the switch, it is also sliding in/out of the lantern box. Inside the lantern box it attaches to a mechanism that spins the lantern. Thus is can attach on either side of switch and they provide both a right and a left lantern for you to use which one you need. My only thing is the lantern is lit with a single bulb, thus the arrow and the stop circle are both yellow light. I would have preferred red/green. I looking at trying my hand at accomplishing that and maybe attaching a flat sigh that would rotate, Hope this helps.


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## sbendall (Mar 20, 2013)

Hi Mickey,

Thanks for your reply to the post, I have a few of these lanterns, the issue is not how they connect but it would appear that the LGB throw arms are differnt and there is no where for the lantern to pin into. If you have a look at the pictures attached, you will see both of them are LGB switch, but the throw arms are differnet. As the one without the lantern attached does not have that extra hook for the pin to drop into


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The turnout motor with the loop is the old style. The motor with the pin is the later style. There is a small adapter that clips over the pin on the later style to provide the loop to attach the lantern too.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The new version of the lantern comes with the special loop attachment for the newer drives without the loop.


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## sbendall (Mar 20, 2013)

Thank you for the responses, are the adapters that clip onto arm available for purchase as a seperate item, as I have three turn outs needing this adapter.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Probably not. Ebay/forum members may be your best bet.

BTW, the lanterns are a PITA and tend to foul the points (sometimes keeps them from throwing all the way), especially if you are also using the supplemental switch. They also tend to work better one way than the other. I have a bunch of these on my railroad, but they are only there for the light and the "drive" mechanisms are disconnected. If your railroad is outside subject to the elements, ...


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I've found three. One has been filed a bit but still works fine. PM me.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You could possibly change out the whole throw bar also.
Water can damage the motors and someone may have the old throw bars form these waiting for a new home.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Dan,

IIRC, at some point they also made a difference to the throw bar and they are not interchangable.


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## Fafinsab (Mar 7, 2016)

*Also looking for adaptors*

If anyone has any of thes adaptors laying around please PM me.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

If adding the lantern creates a problem moving the points then add a second EPL drive on the other side and wire them in parallel.
On another note, I have seen the older EPL drives with the built in loops for sale and some were still in unopened sealed bags.

An led could be added with the 12030 or 12070 DPDT switch and this add-on does not interfere with the throwing of the points like the 12040 lantern does. A dual color (red/green) would really work nice.


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## Fafinsab (Mar 7, 2016)

*Boost box*

I have the 5270 EPL booster on mine and even with a couple switches wired to throw together they are quick and snappy even with the lanterns. This in an indoor layout so I dont have the dirt and other issues of an outside one. The biggest issues I have seen are when the rotating lantern is not properly set in the housing which can happen with a slight bump. Other issues are if the little plastic tabs that hold the ties to the rail are broken then the alignment gets off and the arm hits the rail. Hope that helps some people. Hopefully somone out there has a few adaptors to sell !


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I believe the number is 5275 or 52750 for the booster. I do use this and it has indicator lights for when any momentary switch is pressed and 2 different colors for the 2 directions.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

PM me your mailing address and I'll send you some of the loops.

Todd


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## pappaww9 (Aug 11, 2016)

*1204 switch lantern*

Would it be possible for someone to post a picture of the inside of one of these switch lanterns connected, so I could see how everything is connected to be able to reassemble one that was apart! I have tried several times to put back together, but can't get it to work the lantern!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I'll give it a shot using on-line pics. You can't really disassemble it and take a pic of it assembled.

This shows the most of the parts.










The LGB switch motor has a pin on the end that can engage the add-on loop in the picture. The early switch motors had the loop and pin already built in so don't need the add-on loop. The other pieces (L-R) are a block-off plate to keep dirt out of the hole from the other side, screws to secure it to the switch motor, and the top that snaps on. Behind the top is the rotating arrow, also shown mounted with the white diffuser. You can also see the bottom plate that keeps dirt out from the bottom. 


What is not shown is that there is an intermediate piece between the lantern and the base cover that is free to rotate within the base cover.










There are "pins" sticking both up and down from this intermediate piece.

The top pin engages an "indentation" in the "round" on one side of the black piece inside of the lantern allowing the top of the lantern to rotate with the intermediate piece.










The bottom pin of the intermediate piece engages the loop that you put on the switch motor, or the existing loop of the older switch motor, such that as the switch motor's arm extends/retracts it causes the intermediate piece to rotate taking the lantern with it.

Be aware that this adds considerable friction to the system and is often prone to binding. Also, they work better when mounted to one side of the turnout than the other because it has a slightly different engagement angle.

I have them on my turnouts, but all of them are there just for the lighting (which also goes out due to corrosion) and because of their problems _*in a garden setting*_, none of the loops are engaged.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Just get a child that plays with legos to make it work.


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