# Rivets....how to



## bobbycoke (Feb 24, 2014)

Just getting back in the hobby, I love scratch building and have done some in the past my question is what method or methods do you use to get realistic rivet detail on your metal cars, locomotives and any boilers,tanks etc. The workmanship that I see exhibeted here is some of the finest I have ever seen. I will be working in G Scale as the hands and eyes are not what they use to be.....thanks bobbycoke president of the Claddagh Valley & Flower Brook RR.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bobby;

The latest thing I have seen for rivits are 3D rivit decals. So far, the largest are O scale. Since things tend to be a bit large when used in the smaller scales, the O scale rivits may work with large scale models.

This link will take you to the description at Micro Mark's site: http://www.micromark.com/o-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9967.html

Hope this helps,
David Meashey


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

I prefer hand placed rivets. I bit more work, but I think well worth the effort.
Alan www.thegalline.com


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used this tool with success, although a bit tedious: http://www.micromark.com/press-it-precision-arborandpunch-press,9309.html


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I used that press from Micro-Mark (along with their dies), but the real key is accurate spacing.
They used to offer an X-Y table for the press and it produced excellent results.
Here's a shot of some rivets done in .010 styrene that I used as a skin for my scratch built tender.









And the finished tender...


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> prefer hand placed rivets. I bit more work, but I think well worth the effort


Grandt Line and Tichy both make plastic rivets. Tichy seems to be the preferred version today?
There's an X-Y table available for the Micromark "jewellers drill press" that allows you to space the holes accurately on flat stock. Alan (Virgal) uses a laser printer to cut accurate holes.

For rivets on curved surfaces, take a look at Geoff's work on an EBT tank car:
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/21136/ebt-tank-car/view/post_id/241494


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If you're going to be embossing rivets, the rivet punch with X/Y table is a MUST-BUY.










There are 5 sizes of punches/dies that come with the set. For large scale, you'll probably use sizes 3 - 5 the most. (I forget what the sizes are.) My only gripe with the Micro-Mark set-up is that it's not quite as rigid as I would have hoped. I've got to align the punch and die prior to starting to punch things. It's usually rigid enough not to get off kilter during the punching process, but you still have to be careful. 

If I were to do a lot of riveting, I'd probably build a sturdier riser between the base and top arm of the punch. 

But the results are fantastic!










The results are uniform, round, and crisp. The hollow stay bolts were also embossed with the punch, then "popped" with a sharp awl. 

Later,

K


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Kevin,
I've got the NWSL Riveter and it is very rigid, maybe the Micro-Mark version uses a lighter material? I just wish there was a better way to secure the material other than by tape.
Craig


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Um, you're not counting these, are you


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

The results are fantastic, but now that MicroMark doesn't sell that X-Y table anymore, I don't think I would encourage anyone to get the tool. IMHO, the press is next to worthless without the XY table. Well, unless you just want one rivet and don't care for exact placement.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Yikes, Micromark doesn't even sell the rivet dies for the press.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

The original RIVETER and cross slide available below:

http://www.nwsl.com/uploads/chap1_TOOLS_05-28.pdf


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