# Supporting plywood, track and cars, need help



## noela (May 22, 2008)

After much input, I have come up with an idea for a train storage facility to make it easier to make up and store trains, without carting them 200 feet to the layout. Presently I have shelves (10.5" X 8') that have two tracks on them. allowing me to store up to 10 cars/shelf (12 cars if I use shorter hopper and tank cars). My plan for a trackside storage facility would use these very shelves during the operating "season", and would be brought back in when that season was over. Internally, the storage shed would be 16' long, and wide enough to handle two shelves in width, 21" wide. There would be 4 levels, 3 of which would have removable shelves, and one level that would be permanent, allowing trains to be run into the shed and the cars physically lifted to one of the other levels for storage. Effectively, I would have 4 tracks with direct access to the layout, accessed by #4 switches. I am trying to keep the height of this storage shed to a minimum, and have figured out that would be about 4'. The height is the issue I need to resolve, and am seeking input from anybody that has had a similar problem or project. I need to support these shelves in such a way that I can have access to the cars on them, as well as be able to remove them at the end of the season. My original plan was to use 2x4's and then use angle (either iron, aluminum or whatever) to have the support come from just one side, BUT, I am not sure if such a system would handle the weight of the shelves and cars. Ideally, I would like to have the front of the shelves clear, so I could readily move the cars from level to level. Another consideration is the thickness of the supports, the thicker it is, the taller the shed becomes. Needless to say, this shed, if it can come to fruition, would greatly enhance my operations as I could spend more time running, and less time carting.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions that you might have.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Noel, 
My first storage rack was/is a pair of Hardwood Palletts from a former work place that are 30 inches deep (or so) by 4 foot long. I set them on edge with a piece of plywood across the middle leg adn one across the top. I think there is some bracing on the back? At this point I do not remember? If there isn't it's screwed to the studs on the garage wall. The pallets sit on 4 Concrete blocks so it sits up a bit higher. The first two places I used this system it was mostly used to store cases of trains etc. and now I've finally gotten to teh point where all the boxed up trains I've bought over the years are sorted out on these shelves. I went and bought some 1 x 1 x 8 foot angle iron for the front lip of the plywood as over the years it has sagged. Even with the angle it still sags a bit. When we moved into this house I took all the hollowcore sliding doors off the closets in the bedrooms. With 5 bedrooms worth of doors I built a rack for trains in the shop in the basement. The hollow core tends to hold it's own weight a bit better I've found. Of course I've not tested it weight or time wise like the other shelves. Tehse two sets of shelvs ahve differeing spacing based on the construction techniques. The hollowcore door one is closer to what you are trying to do I think? Still I planned on loading that from the front end wise not with tracks running lengthwise. So my spacing is a bit tighter. If I ahd to lift trans from the back track over the front one when loading and unloading then you need closer to three times you maximum height clearance. (one height for the train in front, one for the car you are placing or removing, plus one for your hands and shelf bracings or mounting) If you think the bracing or moutning will work within the "hand space" then you are golden. Standard shelving brackets would work. I'm geussing a spacing "between" shelves from top of rails to bottom of shelf to be at or around 20 to 24 inches. Your mileage may vary though and you may want to increase that to 30 inches based on other factors. I've given this idea some thought in the past from time to time. My original tabel top storage yard in my first house was going to only have one set of shelves underneath because of the height of the table detemined by the ground level outside the basement. A divorce and those plans went away as she got the house and I got the trains. I remember several variations on the theme shown here on this site. Probably all back in the archived site now? Marty's comes to mind? Cannot remember now but it seems someone else had a set up in there garage along one side? Good luck and share photos of waht you come up with! 

Chas


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well there are many ways to do a storage area. Lots of folks here have built various systems. I would tend to just start with something other than your selfs. Here is what I did to solve my problem which was much like you described always hauling cars to the RR and then have to pick up. My storage area is a 24 ft enclosed area with lift up roof panels. It contains 5 tracks using a 5 way switch.
Later RJD


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Are those solar panels on the top? If so, what a great idea! If not, allow me to say "I thought of it first"! 

Or does anyone else have solar panels on their train shed? 

JackM


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a solar panel on one of the sections but its to power my exhaust vent to get rid of the excess heat build up when closed up. Later RJD


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## noela (May 22, 2008)

Thank you.
Very nice. Not what I had in mind originally, but may be able to combine some of my ideas with yours. Have to ask about the construction. I use the DEK blocks that you use for this storage shed on my entire layout, and they're great. I notice that you do not have any cross bracing on them, does that ever cause any problems? I can see the P/T lumber on the sides, but what material did you use for the top part where the track is. Also, the sides of the structure, what is that composed of. The moveable roof panels, what did you use on them? How do you keep the critters out.

Noel


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## rmcintir (Apr 24, 2009)

Those are beautiful pier supports. Are they all spaced about 4' apart? It is hard to tell on a curve of course...


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

As a addition to my post I snapped these shots with my cell phone last night while in the shop in the basment looking for something. (sigh) Should give you guys with neat & clean shop photos something to snicker about.









OK here you get to see the shelves I built from the recycled hollow core bypass sliding closet doors. There is a set of 2x4 legs and bracing on the back made from some left over luan the whole thing is then fastened to the studs on the wall behind. There are some low shelves behind the mountain of boxes on the right that will get replaced with higher shleves for engine storage. A share of that moutnain of boxes is my mothers "stuff" that needs to get moved out. I'm not yet sure where to though?










Here you see the recycled bread tray rack I built this year. Again 2x4 construction with strips of recycled plywood across the front and bracing on the back and screwed to the studs as well. The rack towards the top that looks bowed is not because it is overloaded but rather part of why I got these racks. They were in pretty rough shape and thus no longer usable and headed to the junkyard. The old Pepsi case has my old RC car ni-Cad batterles and chargers in it. Mostly bad at this point but a few still work. The chargers do as well. Some battery powered loco's are in my future.









Here I am standing near the track in teh previous photos leaning up against the racks and shooting back at about a 45 degree angle at the workbench. There were other closets that had Bifold doors adn those are slated for future shelves and leaned up against the work bench. A file cabinet that has not been purposed yet that came from my former workplace where we built that type of steel cabinetry sits in the foreground. Believe it or not there are at least two started train related projects under all that mess. What is on the shelves is mostly projects as well. Most of those needing some kind of work. From re-painting to complete rebuilding. Some are simply stuff I bought in the last few years that hasn't got any boxes. A LOT of work for this winter......

Chas


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a solar panel on one of the sections but its to power my exhaust vent to get rid of the excess heat build up when closed up 

FYI - you can buy a complete 'solar vent' which fits a 4" diameter hole. Boats use them to keep moisture out while sitting at the dock. My boat has one that is 8+ year old and has run continuously every summer. Highly recommended if your shed is in the open. West Marine carries them.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

allowing trains to be run into the shed and the cars physically lifted to one of the other levels for storage. 
Noela, 

My take is that you will soon get fed up of lifting cars from level to level, plus you will be getting dirty fingermarks on them (tut, tut, as your Ma would say.) But you can always add something a little more elaborate later. 

We discussed lift-up shelves earlier this year, and it turned out you can still get a laundry lift - two pulleys and rope to lift a laundry rack up to the ceiling (and down again) parallel to the floor. Not sure that helps your shed, though, as you're trying to keep it low. The only solution I've heard suggested for constricted space is the shelving systems used by jewellry and nick-nack shops that have rows of shelves that can be rotated around so you can see what's on all of them. 

At that size, you can make the top hinge upwards, as RJD has done, plus you can hinge downwards the side (if you have clearance) so the shelves can be supported by the frame and the covers attached to the shelf supports (which may have been your intention - tough to tell without a drawing!) 

Chas' use of the bifold doors is a good idea - they are manageable length, sturdy and cheap. I got some plastic shelves at HD on sale - suggest you keep your eye on their storage section to see what's available.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Noel:

I do not have a problem not using any cross bracing. The structure is fairly rigid as is . The base is Hardy board painted to protect the part that is out side but also painted the inside also. Sides are made from siding obtained from Lowes and the roof is made from fiber glass roof panels. So far it's worked out great and no more caring locos or cars to the layout. This winter I will move the locos to there indoors storage area. Later RJD


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

I would use angle brackets for supporting the shelves and Dibond for the shelves. In my garage I have used 16" wide particle board shelves for storage and it holds whatever I put on them, angle brackets spaced at 16". You are talking 10.5" you can get 10” brackets at most local hardware stores so this is very easy. Screw the brackets to the back wall and pop rivet the Dibond to them, no extra braces needed.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

You can also buy these vents at various RV centers. Later RJD


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