# Kitbashing Colorado Model Structures....how to cut?



## gdancer (Feb 19, 2008)

Some of the Colo Model Structures are too long for my layout. I need to cut the sides and roofs with nice even cuts to reduce their lengths. I don't own a table saw. How can I cut them evenly and to the exact same lengths? Any thoughts, suggestions, etc would be appreciated.....even to the point of suggestions for the sellers of a modelers small table saw I could purchase and use. (I could use a small table saw for other matters, e.g. tunnel portals, etc.) Thanks guys; you've never failed me!!!


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## gdancer (Feb 19, 2008)

BTW....note a $39 small (4 inch) table saw on Harbor Freight's website. Anyone have any experience with it? Can't afford the $350 plus nice one at MicroMark.


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## Pathfinder834 (Jan 8, 2009)

Although I do not have one, I believe that Colorado Model Structures are made of Styrene and should be able to be cut by the scribe and snap method. I have used an xacto blade or utility knife to score a line on the plastic and then bend and snap on the score line. Makes a very clean cut with just a little sanding to remove the burrs. There are a number of sites that go into detail on the scribe and snap/pop method. I have the HF $39 saw and would not recommend it. It will work on very soft wood like balsa , but that's about it. It is just too slow and underpowered. Besides, using a power saw on styrene may end up just melting it.


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

I have been using one of these Harbor Freight saws for several years now. Remembering that you get what you pay for, I put mine to good use and it seems to do a good job. I have never tried cutting the Colorado Structure plastic with it. It's pretty thinck stuff, so not sure if the saw would do the job for you. You probably should pick up a new blad, one with more teeth. 

Mark
http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/


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## Pathfinder834 (Jan 8, 2009)

I guess I need to find a better blade and give it another chance. Any blade recommendations? 

Rick


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## gdancer (Feb 19, 2008)

Pathfinder..... 
Thanks for the tip on score and snap. I called Bruce the mfgr of the Colorado Model Structures and he confirms plastic is Styrene. (Really nice guy BTW.) Says it can be cut by bandsaw, but must operate very slowly as it will melt and rejoin behind the blade if too fast (as you suggested). He confirmed that score and snap will work with his stuff, but urges a deep scoring due to the way his styrene is flowed into the molds. Nonetheless, today I tried the score and snap and was exceedingly delighted at 1) how easy, and 2) how effective it was and I used only a box knife--not a special scoring tool--to make the scores. Only issue was the roof edges were indented somewhat and these could either be removed with a file or just painted. I don't think anyone would notice the indentions once painted. 

As for the $39 Harbor Freight saw..... Went back on their website to take another look and there is a single review of it. After reading the review there is no way I would invest $10, much less $40 for it. Thanks again.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a framing sq , score and snap, then lightly sand. 
there are table saws at Mernards for $99 ,,10"


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## Pathfinder834 (Jan 8, 2009)

Good to hear gdancer. Yes, the thicker the material, the deeper the score. Kind of trial and error to see what works best for you. Glad you were successful. 

Rick


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used masking tape to make my line and then very slowly use a sonna saw and cut. Did this with the mine. Later RJD


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