# Dremel Table Saw



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I went looking on ebay at Dremel Table Saws.

What I found at least from the photos is a rather large opening on both sides of the blade.

Being I mite want to cut wood or plastic in widths as small as an 1/8th inch, the pcs would apt to fall down inside and possible get damaged by the blade.

What are your thoughts?

Is there a better table saw for this type cutting?

Has anyone bought one of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4-Mini-...35bed80b72


http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-MINI-ELEC...46040cee4c


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Randy, 
I think you would be better off getting something like this http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hobby-use,7500.html or the cheaper version (which I have and use a lot, in fact I need to order a new set of blades as my are dull) http://www.micromark.com/microlux-miniature-table-saw,6936.html 
I use the mini saw for almost every type of cut for wood and plastic. When it gets to big (~1/2" or so) I feel more comfortable using a regular sized saw with a zero clearance plate. I'm amazed how crocked my 'straight' lines were with a score and snap method compared to cutting it nice and clean with the small saw. I will say that the smaller, cheaper version has a crappy fence that is almost useless. 
Looking at the saw you linked to I see a couple of things that I wouldn't like. One the table top isn't completely smooth, and second it doesn't look any different that a regular sized table saw without a zero clearance plate. Search on MLS for threads about regular table saws being used to cut scale lumber. With the right set up you can get down to 1/16" or so. 

Craig


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the smaller one. 

For what I plan to use it for I think it fits the bill. 

What blade do you use for cutting plastic? 

I think the 80 tooth mite well work fine.


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had a Dremal Table saw for years and I've had NO trouble ripping paper thin pieces of strip wood....
What I did was I removed the metal insert that the saw blade comes through, replaced the insert with a piece of plastic cut to fit, turned the saw on and raised it up through the plastic insert......works great.....


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dont bother with those saws on Ebay, not worth the money. I owned the 2nd one, it is sold from Harbor Freight. Might of paid 35.00 for it. Anyway I also owned a Dremel and they are ok though very noisy. Didnt like to cut much and always bogged down. Really built for light cutting of balsa and similar woods. The Proxxon saw my friend has both versions and they are pretty good. I dont know about the micromark version but heard they are not the same. I eventually gave in and bought a real hobby saw, its worth every penny. Ill never have to buy one again. 

http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw.html


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I bought the *Micro-Mark Tilt Arbor Table Saw* back around 2001-2002 and I've *never* regretted it. I've used it for everything from cutting 1:20 scale 1x2s to cutting all the wood components for my 1/8th scale cab, and lotsa other stuff besides! I bought the *Featherboard and High Fence Attachment Set* and replaced the stock fence, and I bought the *Blank Blade Plates*. 

I highly recommend this combo!! It's expensive, but worth every penny imho - and you only need to buy it once!
















P.S. - Forget the Accuriser, Sliding Table, and other attachments.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Dwight, 
Yep I would agree. Spend the extra money and upgrade to the nicer saw. That's what I want to do at least. The smaller saw just doesn't have the right power, or adjustments like the larger one does. 

Craig


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## rhyman (Apr 19, 2009)

Ditto on Dean's comment about replacing the plate around the saw blade. I've been using the same Dremel 4" table saw for the past twenty years or so. I removed the stock plate with the wide gap and replaced it with a thin piece of aluminum, then just raised the blade with the motor running to cut my own "zero-gap" plate. I also locked the tilt mechanism in place because I do 90 degree cuts only. The only maintenance the saw has ever needed was an occassional belt replacement or a new blade (belts and carbide tipped blades for the Dremel saw are still available from Micro-Mark.) I also added an attachment from Micro-Mark called the "Accurizer", which is no longer available. It allows you to adjust the thickness of the cut in .005 inch increments.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Randy-

I guess I was lucky, the used Dremel 580 table saw I bought at Cabin Fever a few years back came with 2 fences, including the .005 in adjustable one, and 2 extra inserts which were flat plates with the appropriate screw hole to fit the Dremel. I just gently raised the carbide blade to cut a zero clearance hole for cutting small scale lumber and plastic pieces. Perhaps those plates are still available somewhere in cybershopworld....

Jerry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep I would agree. Spend the extra money and upgrade to the nicer saw.I learned a long time ago (and after wasting a fair amount of money) that the old adage, "You get what you pay for" is nowhere more true than when it comes to tools... both hand tools and power tools. Occasionally one will get a cheap tool that works well (like the Harbor Freight miniature chop saw), but I find that's the rare exception rather than the rule. 

Quality tools, otoh, will last a lifetime. I still have a set of Craftsman large wire cutters I bought over 40 years ago (back when Craftsman was made in America and came with a lifetime guarantee). Other cheap power tools crapped out and were replaced time and again until I wised up, spent a little more, and bought good ones - which I still have. 

Your mileage may vary, but that's my experience.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

My Dremel has been great for 25 years.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. 

I learned a long time ago that cheap is cheap. 

I think I'll look at getting the MicroMark Lux saw.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

The only one better than the Micro-Mark, is the one that Jason provided a link to, the Byrnes and it is made right there in Orlando.









Byrnes Model Machines[/b]


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow 

I didn't know that. 

Thank you Steve


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## bvdrr (Jan 3, 2008)

My Dremel table saw has been like a Timex watch ====Takes a lickin and keeps on tickin


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## changing scales (Jun 30, 2012)

I have been and still am a cabinet maker and a model maker all my life. I converted an old 7" tile saw I had to a nice little 90% table saw. I do use it from time to time but I have to tell you guy's I have a good balanced 10" saw that has a very accurate fence. I have a few different plates I can drop in place some for 45% cuts some for ripping big stff etc. and a couple that are blank.. You simply drop a blank cover in place screw it down, then lift the blade up slightly higher than you need to cut then drop it back slightly so its not burning the wood and you have an extreamly tight tollerance saw blade cover for ripping very very small pieces of wood. Now I have used these saw's my whole life so I am used to them, some people have a fear of them and they can be dangerous if your shaky or jumpy around them. For G scale work I have yet to use my small saw... I keep that for the HO scale stuff mainly. 

If your only making a few things.... For the price of a Dremel or other small saw.... Call me, its cheaper to have me make it for you. Just a thought... 

Randy


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Dang Randy...I didn't see this thread till today...and I just sold Jim's MicroLux table saw...the same one Dwight raves about. I still have Jim's scroll saw for sale if you want one of them...it's a jewel too. Check the Classifieds here under Accessories.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, just realized I posted this thread shortly after having eye surgery. 

So, due to unforseen medical expenses and Christmas coming, the table saw is on the back burner. 

I would like to thank everyone that posted their thoughts on the various saws available. 

now of only I can find this thread later when I'm ready to purchase one.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

All ya gotta do...is look in your My Topics folder at the top of each page. It's got a list of all the threads you posted on. Scanning that is much faster than searching.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Humm 

Never noticed that tab. 

Thanks Mike.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Even though this thread is two years old, it was new to me, because I just purchased a Dremel table saw at BAGRS meeting a few weeks ago in San Carlos. It had no belt, no miter gauge, no fence, and a blade that looked sharp, but who knows. It was only $40, though, and I had sold $60 of my own stuff, so I had to be as close to revenue neutral as possible.

I ordered a new belt and a carbide tip blade for it, lubed it a little and it seems to cut fine! I've got to make sure the blade is parallel to the opening, but that seems easy. Not sure how to realign the motor, as the set screws seem to be atop the mounting, with the table in the way.
.
I'm told the fence wasn't that good, but I will need a miter gauge.

Still, it will keep my fingers away from my Shopsmith blade!

I'm not a robot, and I resent having to listen to an ad before I can write


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Dick
Glad you like your Dremel. I found one at Cabin Fever few years ago with fences etc, and it has served me well. It came with a fence looking like a T square with a precision edge adjustor that allows changes in small increments. I did tweak and shim a little bit to get the blade perpendicular to the table. That worked for me. I find I can overload the saw by too thick wood or feeding too fast, and the belt may pop off, but that is just user practice to get better. I made an adapter for the curious rectangular dust collector to make it circular and use the small stinger shop vac and it does a fair job of dust control. Just have to pick up the saw and vac under it now and then

Jerry


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the Micro-Mark and have been really pleased. The new version has a digital readout on the fence for making precise cuts.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I picked my Dremel up used for $50 a bunch of years ago. It's great for what I use it for. Anything much over 1/2" and it bogs down, but that's why I have the portable Ryobi in the garage. I use that for ripping fence boards and 2x2 redwood stringers to reasonable sizes, then take those down and clean them up on the Dremel. I think if I were to do a lot of building in wood (depots, stores, etc.) then I might opt for the more expensive model, but for rolling stock and the typical cuts I do for that, it's more than adequate. 

Later,

K


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I also have the HArbor Tools version, it gets bogged with anything thicker than 1/4-1/2"


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