# Cement Signal Bases (All About that Base, No Treble)



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

n another thread I noted that I was redoing my signals. The pole is a piece of brass tube and the "targets" are brass fender washers soldered in place. Bi-color (common anode) red/green LEDs are placed in brass tubing soldered within the fender washer and cut at an angle.

In the past the bases were made of wood cut into the shape of a pyramid with its top lopped off and painted in a concrete color. The pole simply protruded from the base. After several years of being watered and developing cracking with numerous repairs, it was time to redo the bases.

The poles and targets were retained and the new bases are real cement. A hole was placed in the center bottom of a small disposable drinking cup (wax) and the wires and pole pulled through the hole. The pole/targets/cup were inverted on the bench vice so the targets could stick down and the cup sit on the vice jaws. Cement was mixed in a plastic butter tub and poured into the cup. Be sure to work it into all the void spaces. I did this using a finger, pushing into the wet cement and adding more cement as it worked into the cup. Be sure the pole stays verticle and let the mixture harden.

Two days later, tear/cut away the cup and voila:

(Note that I edited this post to replace the larger pic with the smaller pic to appease Greg. You're welcome.)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Could you edit the picture down to the forum max size please?

I have a 23" monitor running 1920 x 1080 and I still have to scroll.

Nice idea on casting the bases.

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Shows 532 x 800 pixels in "Inspect Element" and easily fits on my monitor with lots of space left over.

But here you go:


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Was asking you to resize original...

The original is 1600 x 1064 pixels.

go to your original post, right click on it and get the properties, i.e. VIEW IMAGE INFO ... not the inspect element, clearly some resizing did not work.

Using FireFox.

I can send you an email of a screen capture showing this information.


Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Was asking you to resize original...
> 
> The original is 1600 x 1064 pixels.
> 
> ...


VIEW IMAGE INFO doesn't exist with right click. Closest thing is "Inspect Element."

Anyway, second pic _should have been_ smaller making it a moot point


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I was under the impression the server re-sizes or displays images down to 800 pixels wide anyway. 
I use Chrome and my screen resolution set at 1600 x 900. The server may set the image display code depending on the user's screen resolution.

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It does not automatically, not for all browsers.

Like I said, I am using firefox... did you take that into account? Your picture does show with a message that it has been rescaled in IE.

Take my word for it, it is showing 1600 pixels wide... This is why there was a request to scale the images yourself to 800 pixels wide.

But I know you're just being this way, it's not that you are stupid.

Oh well, forget it.

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

OK boys. Stop this conversation NOW. You may talk about the picture CONTENT but end it about the Picture size. 


JJ 

Speaking as a Moderator.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm not being "any way" and I didn't size or resize the picture. The picture is in my LargeScaleCentral album and all I did was put that URL into the picture URL (box with mountain peak and sun).

I did the same with the second pic, but used a smaller pic on the LargeScaleCentral site to paste in the picture URL.

This site resizes it to 800 wide using Chrome and that's what I use. If you see IE re-sizing, it is from LargeScaleCentral or MyLargeScale and not from me.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

John J said:


> OK boys. Stop this conversation NOW. You may talk about the picture CONTENT but end it about the Picture size.
> 
> 
> JJ
> ...


Sorry JJ. Just had to make that clear.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

Todd, were those made from Solo cups? It's pretty cool--did you have to seal the hole to make sure that the concrete didn't run out the bottom, or did you just mix it really dry? I can see doing something similar for bases for other things, like light poles or signal bridges.

The wind and hail here takes a real toll on things left out--even some of my moderately heavy buildings move around if they're not pinned down. So this would be a good solution for keeping the lighter things from blowing around in the 60mph gusts.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The Albertson's version of the small Dixie cups.

I just made the hole big enough (with a round file) for the tube to pass though with a semi-tight fit, and mixed up a normal cement mixture and none came through the hole on any of the three I made. And I did lots of readjusting of the tube that passes through the mixture when wet. It just wasn't a problem.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

JJ, there's a rule on picture size. I asked him to resize it. It's huge. 

Can you delete the picture or his post please?

Greg

p.s. you allowed him just one more post



John J said:


> OK boys. Stop this conversation NOW. You may talk about the picture CONTENT but end it about the Picture size.
> 
> 
> JJ
> ...


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Greg, thanks for pointing out View Image Info, I had been overlooking it, going to the bottom link where the old link was...
In my firefox it's the line above Inspect Element (which I find cumbersome).
John
JJ, pleze excuse my retro comment.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I know there is a rule on Pictures size. Mine automatically resizes it. 

Now Once again I am telling the topic of Resizing IS CLOSED. 

JJ


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

jj thank you for stopping the hi jacking of this topic.


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Now we return to our regularly scheduled program...{sorry, couldn't resist} 

Now that's a really cool idea Todd! 

On the concrete mix you used, was it something like quick drying quikrete{sp?} or did you use some other type of concrete for the mix? 

Definitely going to try and use your method for keeping signals in place. Sure beats a wooden stick and hot glue! 

Especially since that{hot glue} just isn't really very well suited for the Florida heat{sun}. And wood tends to attract "termites"!, not too mention watering the garden and the rains cause it to deteriorate over some time.

So this sounds perfect for how to mount my signals and keep them supported and in the place where I put them!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

thanks for the kind words.

I used Quickcrete Commercial Grade Mason's Mix and it gives a nice smooth finish.


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Thanks Todd! Appreciate the info. Do you have a thread around here on MLS on how you built your signals? And how you control there aspect from Green to Red and back? As is it done automatically via electronics or manually? Would love to have more info on them too. I am going to attempt to build some dwarf and larger signals, so any additional info you may have posted would be very helpful.

Thanks again!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Probably in archive, if such a thing exists.

The posts and center of the targets are just brass tube. The tube for the center of the targets was cut at a slant on one side. The targets are brass fender washers soldered to the tubes.

The LEDs are the 5 mm, bi-color (red/green), common anode type. In this case, they are controlled with the movement of the turnout switched using a latching relay or LGB supplemental switch that attaches to the turnouts. (I have others on the railroad that are controlled electronically.)


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