# Aristo wide radius vs. #6



## Manco (Jan 5, 2009)

Got a turnout question for those of you with experience. The type of equipment I'm going to be running will consist of 6 axle diesels and long trains of modern 50' + frieght cars. I'm modeling a mainline class 1 type railroad. My question is: will this type of equipment run reliably through a Aristocraft wide radius turnout for mainline operations at mainline speeds, or would a #6 be required? Does anyone have experience with one or the other or both with the type of equipment I'm talking about? Obviously I understand that #6 would be preferable but, due to budget and space constraints, the wide radius switch is definitely tempting. If a wide radius is just too sharp for mainline use, is it ok for slower speed operations such as for a storage yard? I'm planning an expansion that will require quite a few turnouts and want to be sure before I either re-mortgage the house for #6s or buy a bunch of wide radius. Thanks for your input.


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

If the back to back wheel distance is correct on the diesels, you will have no problems with either. My experience is the #6 switch is very susceptible to picking (meaning the wheels move the points as the loco attempts to go through) and when that happens, the locos derail. Try to make sure the normal direction for traffic is straight through the turnout. 

There are several threads on what to do if you have trouble with the switches. Basically they come down to 1) correct improper wheel spacing on the locos. (difficult to do on the diesels. I think the distance should be 1.55 inches or so) 2) file down the points for smoother operation. 

Expect that eventually the pollyswitch controlling the frog with fail, and so the frog will eventually be dead. That will not hurt your big diesels, but will stop a small engine on the switch frog.


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

I used the X-wide switches in my yard. 








The 50' & 53' box cars will go threw but like it slowly. 








I put a couple of USA's #6's and my GP38-2's (doubled) and 50'&53' have no problem. 
I would say go with #6's 
Sean


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I'd suggest #6 and up for mainline speeds and the wide radius for slow speed use. 
The WR switch is close to my mainline curves of 10', so when configured to a continous curve full speed is ok, but if it reverses direction (like a passing siding) I slow down. Passing sidings were often less maintained trackage and came with slow orders. Wasn't usually a problem as the first train stopped and waited for the other to pass at speed on the main, so it was slowing down anyway. 
The WR should be fine for spurs and branchlines and yards, imagine how long a yard ladder would be with #6s at 3x the length of a WR.... 

Mainline speed is a vague term, I live near the UP main to texas, I'm in S.Az. Yesterday I was at a crossing as a mainline train rumbled by at 20mph and slowing down because it was entering a downgrade run. It's easier to keep a train slow than brake down to slow speed while rolling down hill. Trains in the other direction can zip along at 79mph.... Same track, 2 speeds and both are mainline speeds! 

We want pics! 

John


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Depending on the Loco manufacture the wide radius switch will work but has some problems also as the guard rails are to wide and the frog depth is to shallow. Runing some locos at main line speed through the turn out side can can derail the loco. The Num 6 however is more like a they use for high speed main line operation. The problem with this switch is the micro switch that is used for controling the power to the frog goes bad. The other Item that needs corrected is the frog. There is an insert available from Train-LI to correct the problem here. If not corrected you will chew up the wing rail and totally destroy the frog.

I use both types of switches but I do use the Num 6 for my main line use. The wide radius switches I use for sidings that do not require running operating at high speeds through the deverging route. Also all yard tracks have the wide radius switches. If you want flawless operation through your switches on the main then I'd recommend the Num 6 less problems with derailments and they look better. Later RJD


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## Tom Ruddell (Jan 9, 2008)

Several years ago, I found out the hard way that while the USAT PA-PB will navigate through an Aristo switch wide crossover, the USAT passenger cars that follow will wrench one another onto their sides. This resulted in having to replace quite a few turnouts with #6's or inserting at least 16 inches of straight track before reversing the curve. While I was rather "steamed" at the time, those #6s resulted in much smoother operation on the BCR.

However, there are two problems I've had with the Aristo #6s that may have been corrected since my early versions were installed:

1. The frogs are "insulated" with air and expansion and contraction resulted in a couple of shorts that, at first, were hard to figure out. The remedy was to snip off the thin ends of cable ties and wedge one at each end of the frog across both rails.

2. The tiny electrical switch that changes polarity was subject to failure, although that was by no means universal. The preventive measure I took was to box each little switch in with pieces of UBAB assemblies (that's my acronym for Ugly Black Aristo Boxes, rendered in great surplus since all the indoor turnouts are powered by LGB machines and all the outdoor turnouts are operated by air motors). Thus, the little switches are protected underneath and with a pieces of UBAB on either side between the ties, resulting in only a small area on top left exposed. Those spaces are filled with brake caliper grease which seems to work well in all temperatures.

No turnouts I'm aware of are immune to "ballast storms," however, and I do my best to keep the tweezers that hang from my blue jeans pocket from ending up in Nancy's laundry. 

Tom Ruddell
Bethlehem Central Railroad
Midland City (Dothan), Alabama
www.gardenrailwayministry.com


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I used to use Aristo Wide-Radius turnouts but I gave up on them in disgust. I went to Switchcrafters and ordered some #4 switches (which are the equivalent of the Wide-Radius ones) and have never looked back! Aristocraft's tolerances were too loose for my satisfaction.


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve
Are the switchcrafters 332 or 250?
JimC.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

332. They aren't an _exact_ drop in for Aristo Wide-Radius switches but they're darn close! They also use Ten-Mile throws which I _love!_


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Switchcrafters, switchs are really nice, I have 4 # 8's and all i can say is WOW.......... And the price is really GREAT.......







THEY DO REALLY GREAT JOB FOR OUR HOBBY


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick are the switchcrafter switches done in SS? How does the price compair to the AC wide radius? Later RJD


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