# Brass track warping problems?



## csinc (Jun 8, 2008)

I just recently expanded my layout with Aristo brass 20' curve track. So far I have only gotten a train around it successfully once. The problem I am having is all the track seems to be warping. Then the cars will kind of high side and derail. It is doing this with pretty much all of my rolling stock, from aristo boxcars to small brass JNR cars from Aster. I have fixed the problem in a few areas by using zip ties to try to force the rail down, but it is kind of an endless battle so far. 

Previously I only used Aristo stainless steel track and never had any problems, and the track is on an elevated road bed that is level. I am wanting to know if any other people have experienced this and if I should just trash this track and replace it all with stainless steel.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds to me like it must be restrained somewhere so it has no choice but to buckle as it expands. Is it free floating in gravel or screwed down? 
I suspect the coefficient of SS is a lot less than brass so that's why you never had a problem previously. If you still want it restrained do so in the middle and let the ends float--or at least figure out a way to let it float in a controlled way. 

Keith


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## csinc (Jun 8, 2008)

I have about one zip tie per piece in the center just so they don't blow away. Some pieces that have warped now have more than that though. A few pieces were warped out of the box though.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

I have sunset valley railroad brass track, used rail clamps on the curves and sliders on the straights (with a credit card width of space between rails), also I alternate the gaps (6 foot rail, 3 feet left side gap, another 3 feet right side gap), I am in hot south florida and the only thing that is warping slightly and moving around is my elevated trackbed (only a little). The trains track well (this is code 250 stuff) 

my track:
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...spx#105613


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

never heard of this problem. I assume you mean it's warping from the heat? Have you nailed down your track? If the track is floating it should be OK; also, if there are gaps where the rails join that should solve it. 

All metals, even stainless, will warp under the right conditions. 

Dave


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Track does not naturally try to warp because it is track, it can warp if it's under compression or other forces. My guess is similar to Keith's that there's probably some restraint that is trying to hold the track, and the track is "fighting" this restraint and it warps. 

I had this problem in a couple of places on the outer rail rising, and I found that I had placed a curved area in compression, not letting it float properly. Relieving the compression and letting it expand and contract over time it settled back down. 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds like the track was laided to tight and you do not have enough expansions to allow it to move with the temp changes. If you have it secured down in places this is preventing the track from moving and causing the rail to bunch up and then buckle. Later RJD


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By afinegan on 16 Jul 2010 08:37 AM 
I have sunset valley railroad brass track, used rail clamps on the curves and sliders on the straights (with a credit card width of space between rails..... 


Sir - I HOPE you mean 'credit card _thickn_ess[/b]...', not width................

tac www.ovgrs.org
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## Chucks_Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By csinc on 16 Jul 2010 08:32 AM 
I have about one zip tie per piece in the center just so they don't blow away. Some pieces that have warped now have more than that though. A few pieces were warped out of the box though.



Wow!! Warped coming out of the box is bad..Think I'd call Aristo about it as they have a 5 year warranty on stuff


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

If you have the joiner screws too tight it may prohibit the rail from adjusting to temperature.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I went back and re-read the initial posting. New 20' dia. track shouldn't warp! Period. There must be an outside reason! Let's run through the list of logical possibilities: 
#1. The box was damaged in transit and some of the rails were bent. If so contact Aristocraft.
#2. Due to the extremely large diameter, it is easy to try and "fit" the curve into too tight a curve (19' dia. for example) which has the tendency to raise the outside rail thus giving us a "warping" effect. 
The solution to this is to disassemble a track connection at the end of one side of the curve and spread the curve until the rolling stock runs freely. If this is indeed your problem you can still bend your curve but you will have to take up sections of track and cut slots in the plastic connectors directly under the rail. This will then allow you to fit the curve to your needs without the warping. One caveat: too much bending will kink the rail! For anything over a degree or two I would recommend using a rail bender as this will ensure an even curve at whatever degree of curvature you require.
#3. Manufacturing defect where the rails are not gauged properly. Take a thick piece of cardboard stock and cut it so that it fits exactly between the rails of your older track and then use it to check the gauge of your curve. Manufacturers routinely make the curves slightly wider than the straights.
#4. Track was accidentally damaged by owner. (I just added this one to be thorough.)
#5. All of present rolling stock out of gauge. (Again, just covering all bases!)

I really think it's #2 as I have had this problem from time to time. Floating track should not require being tacked down to allow free rolling operations! Curves automatically adjust for heat expansion. It's long straight sections that require expansion joint spaces! Let us know what you find and good luck!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Sounded to me like a bad box of track. 
SoCal, All my SS screws are as tight as I can get them, the track contracts and expands just fine, not a cause. 
Contact Aristo and get a replacement. 

John


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

To trouble shoot it. I would remove them and lay them on a flat serface and check each one. either the ties or maybe the rail was kincked out of the box. 
I had one case way back of 20'dia that looked more like straight track due to UPS packing.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, you should take them out to Marty's and lay them out in place. Marty will even watch them for you and report back. It might take a couple of years though!









Greg


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

It might help to shoot us some photos so we can see the warp.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

What does he mean by High Side? Wheels riding up on the top of the rial? The the porblem would be guage. Rails too narrow/close together. Like someone/ thing stepped on the rial


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## csinc (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions. I think it must have been damaged in shipping or storage. 

To answer some of the questions about pictures and high side, I probably can't really show in pictures what is happening as it is a little hard to see, but one side of the rail sits higher than the other, so if everything is flat on a table for example one side of the rail will be twisted up in relation to the other side. 

-Adam


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Sounds to me like the rail twisted as it was rolled and bent. A manufacturing defect. 
The cross section is hefty enough to resist sagging, stacked in a box. 
Have you tried reversing the bend over your knee? 
Was it reshaped (bent, unbent) by a home bender? (slightly used track?)









John


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