# Softly-sprung ground throws for the DC&M



## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All.. Here is my interpretation of Fr. Fred's inspired _“Original KayDee (Patented) Barrel-Bolt Ground Throw.” _I've made a few modifications to the original to suit my situation: (a) it's mounted close-coupled to the switch itself, and (b) the points are lightly spring-loaded to the stock rails in either position, so a loco can go through “wrong way” without derailing. Obviously, I'm more interested in low maintenance and ruggedness than I am prototype fidelity:










I don't claim anything original here, except maybe the way I got a very light spring loading using cheap ballpoint springs (with inactive coils clipped off). Most of the length of the springs is hidden down in counterbores within the barrel bolt. The reach rod slips all the way through the bolt and is free to rotate. The spring stops are just brass donuts soldered to the reach rod so that the springs are not under compression when the bolt-handle is at mid-throw.
For a mounting platform, I just clipped three ties off a spare LGB tie strip, opened up the ends, and coupled them to the Tain-Li R7 switch with “filler strips” sawn from ¼ inch ABS plastic sheet. Plus a few stainless cap screws. It's very secure:









I'd prefer to use only two ties, of course, but the Train-Li switches have a power routing reed relay in that center tie, so it can't be used for mounting purposes. There really aren't any finicky adjustments except perhaps getting the spring pressure equal on both points. The way to do this is to bend the reach rod to lengthen or shorten the throw a tiny bit.









Construction is all solid brass, plastic, and stainless steel (except the ballpoint springs), so it should weather well. If the springs rust out, I'll wind some brass or stainless ones.
Here is a link to the details of how I machined the bolts:

*Barrel Bolt Ground Throw Instructions PDF*

Thanks for looking.

Steve Seitel


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

The tie strip for mounting is a great idea! It looks good thanks for sharing. 

Terry


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Nice work Steve 

I tried to get a similar 'soft' action using piano wire in the throw arm with a V bend. Not that successful as the wire has rusted over the last few years, and I never got successful reverse running - guess the tension was too much. 

I like your approach - will give it a lash on the next couple of turnouts that come out of the shops. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Here is the hyperlink 

Link to switch construction


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All 

Neil - The "best" way to reduce the spring tension is to find or make a spring with a smaller force constant, of course. The next best (which I used) is to space the reach rod stops a little farther apart, so the ends of the springs don't _quite_ touch them at mid-throw. I made do with cheap ballpoint springs on my first batch; I'll probably wind up a bunch of softer springs for use on the next ones. 

Terry - glad you found something useful here. 

Regards, 

Steve Seitel


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Jake, thank you. How did you make that link active? I thought I knew how, but I guess not. 

Steve


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

Nice upgrade to the barrel bolt switch throw Steve!

A shot of silicon spray works wonders on these throws. It dries and lubricates without leaving an oily residue to collect dirt. It may help extend the life of the springs as well.

The only problem I had this year was cleaning the grit from under the throw bars. I found a cable tie worked the best for that job. There are now over 100 switches on the club railway. 

During the recent re-building of Nelson and Glen Hammond Yards, it was realized that moving 90 degree angle brackets by hand could be used to throw the switches. This eliminated the need for the barrel bolts and V springs. 










The following diagram details how the new 90 degree angle bracket switch throws have been mounted to the road bed.









The new throws proved to be very reliable during our railway operations over the past months, which included two days of continuous operations during the American Invasion of Ottawa. In time all the switches on the railway will be updated with the new throws.

When a switch in a yard is out of reach, a choke cable is used to move the 90 degree angle bracket. The handle of the cable is mounted on the fascia of the yard deck nearby. 










Shown here are the re-built Nelson and Glen Hammond freight yards with the new switch throws in place.











We no longer ballast the raised yards, but stain them instead. That saves time and money building yards, and eliminates the need to weed and re-ballast every couple of years. We also hope the yards will be much easier to keep clean.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All 

Paul - I remember reading about your L-bracket switch machines on the OVGRS site and thought at the time it was a pretty clever idea. Is it supposed to be "sprung" in some way, or are the points firm against the stock rails? What limits the travel of the reach rod--the switch itself? Could an "overenthusiastic" operator damage the switch with it? Just curious about how well it works in practice. 

Painting but not ballasting the yards is a great idea, which I may steal if I wind up with a solid deck there. I see standing water, nicely beaded up, in one photo. What did you stain/seal the deck with? 

Regards, 

Steve Seitel


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

The great thing about the L bracket is that you can have one side move a great distance while the other side ( depending on where the connecting rod is on the bracket) move a lot less.

That is really a great idea Thanks for posting 

JJ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I guess its good to have them, BUT if folks know they are not there, then maybe they will pay more attention, more "realistic"


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