# First runs of new 4-4-0



## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

I just took delivery of my Accucraft 4-4-0 (D&RG livery) yesterday and got in a few very satisfactory runs this morning. It is a really great looking loco, with wonderfully detailed decals, pinstriping and paint. There is a minor amount of assembly required, specifically, attaching the pilot, attaching the cab steps and tender steps and adding the whistle and dummy pop offs to the steam dome. 


The loco easily pulled five of Bachmann Jackson and Sharp coaches (the version lettered for D&RG and painted the era-correct red with gold striping and lettering). Even though these coaches are really about 1:24 scale, they look OK with the rather diminutive 1:20.3 4-4-0. The runs were about 30 minutes, smoothly tracking over #8 switches at speed and 10 foot minimum radius on my track. The loco ran out of butane just as the water level reached the bottom of the sight glass. A minor annoyance is that the Korean butane cans are just a little too wide to fit in between the "tool boxes" mounted on either side of the tender, so one has to use either an nozzle extension adapter on those cans, or the more expensive and thinner Ronson-style butane cans. 


The new design of adjustable lubricator is a good addition to Accucraft's locomotive features, and seems to minimize the spitting of oil over the loco and on the track. One minor issue is that the new internal part of the lubricator blocks a lot of the entrance bore of the lubricator "tank", making it difficult to fill the tank without getting bubbles trapped in the tank. A thin wire will break up the bubbles and allow the oil to flow into the tank, though. I imagine that if one heated up the oil to reduce its viscosity, it would flow more reaadily into the tank. 

All-in-all, a very nice locomotive at a very reasonable price, considering the features and detail.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff, 
I think we either need pictures or a moobie. 
Congrats on your new locomotive. 
By the way, why don't you try King butane cans, which are almost the same capacity (170 grams), but taller and a smaller diameter? A case is about $27. See http://www.kingbutane.com/products.asp?cat=18


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree 100% Jeff. Yesterday I got a chance to run my SPC green version that I picked up last Thursday on the BAGRS track at Roaring Camp. I had already run my NCNG version at the BTS where I bought it, and I ran it again yesterday as well. Both run very smoothly right out of he box, track very well, have plenty of power, and look gorgeous on the track! I couldn't be happier with both of them! 

I found that by getting the nozzle tip of the steam oil container right down into one of the gaps between the needle seat and the ID of the lubricator, and then squeezing slowly, I can direct the oil flow past the obstruction and into the lubricator. The gap on the opposite side allows air to escape and indicates then the lubricator is full. 

On both locos, I took a needle file and filed an indication notch on the lubricator adjustment wheel so I could see how far I'd opened it. I set both to 1-1/2 turns open initially until things break in a little. Neither loco seems to have the pops and spitting associated with my previous Accucraft locos, and both contain mostly water at the end of a 30 minute run. 

Kudos to Accucraft for producing these fine additions to their roster.


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

I have photos of my new D&RG 4-4-0. How does one go about inserting photos in a reply?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

How does one go about inserting photos in a reply?

See *this FAQ*.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Keep it up you guys, I'm jealous already. Dwight, you just had to buy TWO of them, when I'm still waiting for that brown truck to deliver my NCNG version. It's due at any time now, maybe this afternoon. 
Guess this is the price I pay for living in Vermont, instead of California. 

Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I wasn't intending to buy two Larry. I had the SPC green #3 on order from my local dealer and had only planned on that one. However, once I saw the NCNG version in Jonathan's booth at the BTS and realized it was almost a dead ringer for the NPC Sonoma, I had to have her. hehehe Now I need to sell some Colorado stuff to pay for them. I was never a huge Colorado fan anyway.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, at least you have an excuse handy! 

Larry


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## Tom Leaton (Apr 26, 2008)

Jeff, 
What speed range does the loco have?


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

The speed for 30 minute runs pulling 5 cars was a scale (1:20.3) 25 mph. Since the loco is new, I haven't tried high and low speeds yet, nor have I run it light, but it seems quite docile. As is typical with Accucraft locos, the fuel valve is very touchy, so really low speeds may involve lots of safety valve venting or re-lighting of the burner. A nice feature is there is zero whistle from the burner - maybe I was lucky with my unit or maybe Accucraft finally cured that problem with their burners.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Dwight! What Colorado "stuff"?/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I have two C-16s (#268 and #278, both black) and a C-21. Exactly what I'm going to sell and what I'm going to keep is something I still need to decide. 

#278 might be a fairly easy conversion into SPC #13.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

These sure sound like sweet engines..............pictures please.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Steve S. on 06/17/2008 9:12 PM
These sure sound like sweet engines..............pictures please. 

If you're referring to the 4-4-0s, I posted some *here*. If you're referring to my Colorado stuff, there are photos and movies scattered through the archives.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

I got my Colonel Boone yesterday. Lovely paint job. But I have a small problem I was hoping somebocy could help me with. 

The loco comes with the cowcatcher, whistle, pop valves, cab steps and tender steps in separate plastic baggies. Everything is there, including the bolts to hold on the cowcatcher and tender steps. 

When I went to attach the tender steps, the bolts would not go into the pre-threaded holes. I was thinking it was the paint, so thought I would try a standard method. That is turn the bolt in one turn, then out 1/2 a turn. It did not seem to be helping, when suddenly the bolt twisted in two parts. So now I have half a bolt in the hole, and the head and the other half loose. 

Has anybody successfully got this together? Is it a mismatch of the threading or what? 

Thanks for any help.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Both of mine went together without a hitch.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

The brown truck delivered my NCNG version 4-4-0 ysterday afternoon, and it is a beauty. After checking it over and installing the loose parts, it had to wait to be fired, because of endless thunderstorms passinfg over. So, first thing this morning under threatening skies, she got the first run in. 
After the usual prep and initial firing to check the safety (58 +/- psi) and for leaks (none), I shut down to top off the water and gas. After the restart, I switched a bit to pick up five cars and a caboose, and let her out on the main, running at 30 psi. After some adjustment to throttle and gas settings, it pulled its train over an undulating track at 20 psi for a total of 41 minutes. Pretty good for a new engine right out of the box. Looks like performance will match the beautiful appearance (the multicolor pinstriping on the driver spokes is impressive as the engine runs). 
This engine looks like it is going to be fun to run. 
Just one comment: it is too bad that those of us who funded this project in the first place had to wait three years while Accucraft went off in other directions. In the future if I want an Accucraft product, it will be in a dealer's hands before I consider purchasing it; no more preordering. 'Nuff said. 
Now, if the weather cooperates, back to steaming my new toy after lunch. 

Rich, see if you can work the broken screw out of the hole, from either front or back, using small needle nosed pliers. then, try one of the spare screws that should be in an envelope, very carefully--the original screw might have been defective. If that doesn't work, contact Cliff about the right tap to clean out the hole. Hope that helps. 

Larry


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich, 

It almost sounds like the screw was the wrong thread size. Call Cliff and ask him for an easy way to get the broken screw out and then double check with him on the proper size that goes in there. All of the threads and screws on my Accu #346 sparkie were beautifully machined. Everything went together very nicely without forcing. Good luck with this.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich 

Probally just paint as the Ruby kits had the same issues with paint on threads. They were all included with a tap to clrea the threads first.... 

Try using small pliers to remove it, maybe you can get a small drill bit todrill it out and try to back out the screw once you have a small dimple on the shaft. Should be a M3 bolt if is is the smaller one then a M2 bolt.


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## rgorski (Feb 12, 2008)

Dwight, 
Is the C-21 live steam or electric? If it's live steam (which I'm assuming) and your looking to sell, Clem O'Jevich has a few guys interested in one. Send him an email at [email protected] with more details as he may be interested. 
Rob


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Forgot to mention one thing about the first run of my 4-4-0. Following Dwight's advice, when I tried to adjust the oil metering valve on the lubricator, it would not move. Backing off the stem packing nut solved that, and after setting it at 1 1/2 turns open, I snugged up the nut a bit. After each of two runs today, when blowing down the lubricator, just a trace of oil was remaining. The second run was also about 40 minutes. 

Fun engine to switch with. 

Larry


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## Jeff Williams (Jan 8, 2008)

The distance between the clearance holes in the tender steps is apparently a little bit different than the the distance between the tapped holes in the tender. 

Back off on the first screw until the step is barely attached. Then start the second screw. 

At this point one can tighten each screw in turn until the step is secure. 

Alternately, use a drill or rat-tailed file to enlarge the clearance hole(s)


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