# AMS caboose lettering!



## rgs41 (May 14, 2008)

Im want to reletter my AMS short caboose. But I need to remove the lettering that is on there now. Any ideas?


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## cabforward (Feb 18, 2008)

On the brassa AMS caboose I was able to use blue panters tape to get the lettering off (by mistake) when I was tapeing of topaint the roof it know I have to reletter. 
Hope this helps 
Matt


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

AMS cabeese are plastic.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I would first try a Q-tip dipped in alcohol and then carefully apply it to the lettering. This is what I have to do with Bachmann lettering. It's not quick but it does seem to be the safest method for removing stubborn lettering! Solvents are tricky! I have used Acetone for wiping up a smear. It _does_ work but it will almost immediately screw up the paint underneath! I DON'T recommend using it unless you have the technique mastered (and yes, I screwed up plenty before I figured it out. You get ONE swipe with a semi-damp paper towel - NEVER pour on the plastic!! If it didn't come off in one second then let it dry completely and you can try again but be warned!! Acetone EATS plastic!!) Better to try and remove the lettering with tape first and then work with alcohol second and start to work up the line with paint thinners etc... (Acetone is a LAST resort!)if those don't completely do it.


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the lettering of mine with a "graffiti remover" product called "oops." Wasn't the easiest.... but it worked.... and didn't take off too much else. 

Matthew (OV)


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## rgs41 (May 14, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I do have one more though. How well do dry transfers hold up under a clear coat?


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I put some dry transfers on an LGB Mikado about 2 years ago. Covered it with Testors Dullcoat. It did not wrinkle the transfers at all. I don't leave the loco out in the sun that much other than when running, but it still looks great. If you leave your locos out, the Krylon UV matte would probably work better, but I have not used it with dry transfers and I don't know if it will wrinkle them? But worst case is cover them with Dullcoat and then Krylon UV matte.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

My personal feelings are that dry-transfers are _much_ easier to work with than decals! Almost all of my equipment has been re-lettered with dry-transfers. The "dull-coat" seals the lettering and it works great! One caveat: I have been reliably informed that the "dull coat" will weather badly in the sun if you are planning on leaving your rolling stock out in the elements. I don't so I have never had any problems!


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## JerryAlbers (May 9, 2008)

Since I've been out of the hobby for a number of years, what company do most of you guys use for decals? I used CDS dry transfer in the past...but what is out there now. Thanks 

Jer


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan Cedarleaf, a member on this forum. 

http://gold.mylargescale.com/StanCedarleaf/WebPageDecals/CustomDecalsx.html 

Great work and a real easy guy to work with for custom work.


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

Denatured alcohol on a Q-tip will remove the lettering from an AMS car. I redid 2 Rio Grande boxcars this way and it worked great.


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