# Frustration... Need advice..



## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

I'm new to this side of the hobby... Radio control that is. I've been using a battery from one of my screw guns wired in a box car behind my Aristo RS-3. I mounted a switch to the top of the box car to turn on or off the power to the loco. 


Problem is no control (obviously) 

My question is would there be a way to "rig" some sort of "dial" to control the amount of juice the engine gets?
If so, I could then radio control said "dial" rather easily...

Any suggestions?

-------------------------------------OR--------------------------------------------

Should I just sell all of my engines and start over with an entirely new system that's "off the shelf" 
If so, what system do you all suggest? 

FYI, I run diesels, from the dawn of diesels to somewhat modern. 

I'm in research mode as I got incredibly frustrated with losing conductivity with my track power today... Had seven or eight engines out and fifty cars... I was pissed lol


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> I'm new to this side of the hobby... Radio control that is. I've been using a battery from one of my screw guns wired in a box car behind my Aristo RS-3. I mounted a switch to the top of the box car to turn on or off the power to the loco.
> 
> 
> Problem is no control (obviously)
> ...


Fish Guy,

Why try to "re-invent" the wheel.......if you decide that battery is for YOU, then get "off-the-shelf" stuff and enjoy the hobby. I have been battery for eight years and never regretted it.

One question: why would you have to sell all of your engines? Just convert your existing locos to battery.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Can you explain better how you wired this up?

It sounds like you have two speeds - nothing, and all of it?

To run battery power, it is customary to use a transmitter and receiver, and electronic speed control. Airwire and others make the components.

For sure, battery power is a solution to having to clean track.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

That "dial" you want is an "Electronic Speed Control" (ESC) that hooks to a Servo port of an R/C receiver and fits between the battery and the motor in the engine.

I'd tell you more, but I am a Live Steam guy and only know this amount because of a presentation at the last Garden Railway meeting a couple of months ago.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Years ago I made a battery car with a dpdt switch and a rheostat from my old HO layout to power my LGB engines when the rails were icy and non conductive. It worked. This worked for me, it may work for you. 

The battery was from the starter pack for an electric started snow blower.

I'm now using a li-ion battery.

Chuck


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

A simple explanation is using a radio control car or airplane setup.

The toy cars at walmart typically cannot be retrofitted in large scale. Besides the cheapest ones still on/off the proportional ones are the type to look for. Typically their max is 12volts for the 9.6v cars. That is the cheapest setup. But does not work for more than 1 remote per engine. Ok for a single engine but a hassle for more than 1.

Usually in large scale a hobby shop rc car or airplane setup with seperate receiver and speed controller are used. This allows for multiple trains on a single remote, with seperate receivers and speed controllers in each engine. Also if 1 piece fails it is only that piece to be replaced.

Beyond this are much fancier controls that have many many more functions.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

The RS-3 had factory wires or leads if you will to hook up a battery car. So I made a simple battery car to run the engine, a handful of cars and my two track cleaning cars as there's about 45' of track I can't get to to clean. With a full charge the engine runs for an hour and a half which in turn gets the track nice and clean. 

As for having to sell the engines... Well it simple finances... My hobbies must support them selves. I've got 14 engines. I don't need that many lol I thought if I sold them and my TE set up I could probably afford to dial in at least three or four engines with some sort of wireless battery powered system. I simply cannot afford to retro them all and I know if I retro a few those will be the only ones I use. What would be the point of keeping the rest? Lol


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If you just want a basic manual throttle control that you can dial in, check out *G-Scale Graphics' Simple Critter Control. * I've got that in one of my steam locos that I use just to have something running around the track. It works very well. If you want to reverse the train, you'll have to wire in a direction switch, but that's not difficult.

That doesn't get you remote control, though. You could hook a servo motor to control the potentiometer on the Critter Control, then use another to throw a direction switch. G-Scale Graphics has remote control systems as well. 

Also, you might look at *Pololu's* line of motor controllers. I've not toyed with these, but they're apparently well-respected in the R/C robotics field. I've used some of their smaller circuits to control lights on my live steam locos. 

Those are probably your cheapest options. They might not have all the "bells and whistles" of the high-end stuff, but if you don't need it, don't pay for it.

Later,

K


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I do not believe the R/C for planes should be used for trains as the power output is too high and may be government regulated as to power and frequencies in many countries.
Train R/C is a low power output and has specific frequencies allowed by governments.
The older 27mhz was limited to 100milliwatts in the CB (citizens band).


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Well, honestly I don't need all the bells and whistles but in the same respect I like simplicity. My work tends to get in the way of hobby time... That being said I was up late last night reading all about Airwire and all of it's accessories and am quite impressed with what seems to be simple install and operation. My boys might be more interested in playing with me if it's simple....

Preliminary numbers show that I'll need to spend about $1200 to equip four of my engines. An SD40-2, two F3's and and GP9. That's using their drop ins, buying the batteries and charger they suggest, the back lit throttle and belt clip and drop in charger jacks. The SD40 and F3's are new so taking them apart will be easy. I just had the GP9 apart two years ago to do a custom paint job and lettering on it so it will be easy to tear down also... 

I figure I'll start selling stuff out of the many storage bins and then start selling the other ten engines as necessary....

Could I get some feed back on the Airwire system and any hints or suggestions?

Thanks guys... I appreciate your responses! 

I'd like to keep the RS-3 and go with East Broad Top's suggestions. More Research! Yay!


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## josephunh (Mar 27, 2013)

Fish Guy,

I do think you still need to provide some info to everyone. How do you currently run your trains and how do you want to run them in the future? Do you want things like sound or do you not care? Personally while I think going to a remote battery system would be good for you I don't think you need to just do the all in or nothing type mentality. The Airwire maybe more then you need but their are other systems too (RCS, locolink) do try looking into some of them. Also don't sacrifice your collection pick a couple engines to start and maybe do a few others over time as you get the money. Like any hobby you can get ahead of yourself and want it all now but that's not reality. 

In reading the rest of your post it does seem like you want a remote battery system as you want more control rather then just hooking up a battery and watching it go. While hooking in a rheostat allow you to set a speed it is not going to let you remote control anything and still requires a remote and a circuit card to be installed.

I am not sure if you belong to any clubs or have any other G scalers nearby but see what they use for systems and see if you can visit and give the system a whirl to see if you like it.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> Well, honestly I don't need all the bells and whistles but in the same respect I like simplicity. My work tends to get in the way of hobby time... That being said I was up late last night reading all about Airwire and all of it's accessories and am quite impressed with what seems to be simple install and operation. My boys might be more interested in playing with me if it's simple....
> 
> Preliminary numbers show that I'll need to spend about $1200 to equip four of my engines. An SD40-2, two F3's and and GP9. That's using their drop ins, buying the batteries and charger they suggest, the back lit throttle and belt clip and drop in charger jacks. The SD40 and F3's are new so taking them apart will be easy. I just had the GP9 apart two years ago to do a custom paint job and lettering on it so it will be easy to tear down also...
> 
> ...


Try searching these forums for 'inexpensive wireless' [google "site:mylargescale.com cheap inexpensive wireless".]

A couple of years ago, someone found a key-fob remote light controller
http://forums.mylargescale.com/40-r...p-functional-wireless-throttle-control-2.html
It lets you control the output of a 12V battery from your key ring.

Airwire is quite complex, compared to some of the other systems, imho. RCS in Australia sells some throttles (Electronic speed controls) that use the receiver and transmitter from a cheap 2.4Mhz radio control setup. The latter are available for $50 or so.
http://www.rcs-rc.com/pages/battery-r/c/basic-3

I made a battery boxcar once that had a big battery, a switch for reversing direction, and a rheostat for speed control. The latter are available cheaply as ex-military or recycled computer parts. 50 ohm, 50W should do it.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

The Rail Boss 4 is pretty easy to hook up and does not cost much. I have one controller and receivers is several engines and a battery car. Low cost sound system is My Loco Sound, and Del carries it along with his Rail Boss 4.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I second Jerry's suggestion regarding the Rail Boss 4. That is what I use for all of my engines and I am extremely satisfied with the product and Del's support. They have far more capability than I need but, should I get ambitious, it's good to know that I can do a lot more with them.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> Well, honestly I don't need all the bells and whistles but in the same respect I like simplicity. My work tends to get in the way of hobby time... That being said I was up late last night reading all about Airwire and all of it's accessories and am quite impressed with what seems to be simple install and operation. My boys might be more interested in playing with me if it's simple....
> 
> Preliminary numbers show that I'll need to spend about $1200 to equip four of my engines. An SD40-2, two F3's and and GP9. That's using their drop ins, buying the batteries and charger they suggest, the back lit throttle and belt clip and drop in charger jacks. The SD40 and F3's are new so taking them apart will be easy. I just had the GP9 apart two years ago to do a custom paint job and lettering on it so it will be easy to tear down also...
> 
> ...


Fish Guy,

You specifically asked about Airwire and I actual use Airwire. I have three locomotives using Airwire.........a Bachmann Connie, an Accucraft C-19 #346 and a Berlyn Work Goose #6. ALL have Phoenix Sound and I use the two T-5000 (non-backlight, was not available when I bought my T-5000"s). I disagree with Pete that Airwire is complicated. It can be as easy or as complicated as you want it to be. Depends on your settings. Paul Burch is the expert on MLS when talking about Airwire. As a matter of fact, one of Paul's 5 or 6 yr old grandsons is shown on Airwire website running his own double-headed locomotives and train on Paul's layout (top right photo on the 900 series Family link). http://www.cvpusa.com/airwire_system.php

I changed all my stuff to battery/Airwire in 2007 and have been happy with their products ever since. Remember the old saying, "you get what you pay for".

Everyone has an opinion on their preferences for RC/battery. I ALWAYS go for what the product can do and that I don't have to spend hours "fixing" stuff". I want a product that DOESN'T cause me frustration (as your topic suggests). Money spent is always secondary for me.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

For you, I'll second Del's controllers
http://www.gscalegraphics.net/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
are what you need.
I was surprised that Airwire would be suggested as that one tries to mimic DCC and most of it's special effects....
Your kids will probably learn it faster than you....lol
John


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

As far as operations on the layout are concerned it really depends on how much time is available for "playing trains" as my wife calls it. lol 

If there's time I'll set up various shunting activities and push my experience to the limit picking up and dropping off freight at various sidings and yards. This only happens when I've got an entire uninterrupted day. 

If I've only got a couple hours I'll just run a short consist around the main line and maybe switch the order of cars just to satisfy my train nerd needs lol

Sound is not a huge concern but in the future it would be fun... 

I haven't looked into other systems yet as I'm still in research mode. I like the airwire for obvious reasons... It's seems to be plug and play. While I like tinkering I'm not hugely versed in electronics... But I will Definitely research all that's been mentioned in this thread so far.

I've said I before but I'll say it again, I really do appreciate this forum and its members and the time you all take to help people like me out!

My other hobby is keeping and breeding Central and South American cichlids. I only mention this because if anything I can be patient and do the research. It took two years of research before I installed my outdoor layout. I guess I feel like going wireless is the natural progression of the hobby.

I'm on the board of a cichlid club... At the moment I'm not ready to join another hobby oriented club. While I understand the great advantage of belonging to a club, time just doesn't allow it at the moment. Four kids ranging from 8-16 and putting a wife through nursing school while running my own business. Oh yeah, and I'm a Cub Scout den leader lol

I guess so far I like the airwire because time is a precious commodity around here! 

Took three hours to formulate this response! Lol


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok here is my trailing battery car installation. It is based on the use of the $89 Rail Boss card, as mentioned above. The card is controlled by the $55 5 channel 2.4 GHz RC radio, very common and easily obtained device.









From left to right is a LIPo battery from a variety of sources, mine from allbattery.com, a simple on-off slide switch cannibalized from old electronics or easily bought, then the Rail Boss card, happens to be the high end 6 channel one, there is a cheaper one with fewer channels, probably around $75 or so, and above it the black thing is a common RC receiver. Wires lead to the right out the car bottom and plug into the common Aristo two conductor plug. The battery leads also have a plug to allow removal for charging. Battery held in place with velcro. 

Jerry


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

So Jerry, you can control speed and direction with that?


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Yes control of direction and speed with the joy sticks on the typical R/C radio. The card is called an ESC which means electronic speed control, and also has additional channels for things like sound trigger, lights, smoke, etc. By the way, the box car is from Heartland Locomotive Works, chosen for scale but most important has a removable roof for ease of access. 

Jerry


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## RIrail (May 5, 2008)

Hi Fish Guy, I'm not battery and run on DCC, but I noticed no one mentioned http://shop.crest-electronics.net/ they make The Revolution Train Engineer. Its seems to have a following in battery operation about the same as Air Wire from what I read on the forums. Like I said I have not used them but just trying to help.
Steve


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Ok Jerry you've got my attention. So what you're telling me is one remote per engine? or is the remote capable of operating more than one? 

I don't mean to be a pain...


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks Steve, I'll check it out too. I use the Train Engineer now but with track power...


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

If by remote you mean the R/C transmitter radio, with the joysitcks you see R/C car and plane folks using, one radio can operate thousands of receivers using spread spectrum technology. You just buy a receiver either separate or incorporated into the Rail Boss, either way, and link it to the radio. That is how you can have dozens or hundreds of people flying RC planes or RC trucks, etc without interfering with each other. Again, this is 2.6 giga hertz radios and receivers. 

If by remote you mean the card in the battery car, you need one for each installation in a battery car or in the loco itself if you wish to do that, many do...

Jerry


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

So you mean to tell me I can purchase a "toggle" remote at a hobby shop (which the one closest to me is clueless when it comes to G scale or anything that has to do with it) and somehow rig it to operate more than one engine? 

Batteries are not an issue. 
I've got a great source for that. 
As for using a battery car, I'm perfectly fine with that. 
I'd really really love to radio control all of my engines. I'm not apposed to having more than one remote either. Three would be cool as I've got two boys and it could get very interesting....


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok the technology I have been talking about, 2.4 GHz RC has nothing to do with G scale trains. (I do not know what you mean by toggle remote )It is a generic RC control approach for hobby RC for cars, trucks, boats, drones, planes, etc. So a train shop not only won't have it but typically do not deal with it at all. You need a hobby shop dealing with RC or one of many websites such as tower hobbies or hobby king for 1) the radio 2)the receiver. That leaves the ESC card, which is G train related, from G Scale Graphics, and then the battery which is generic. Hope this makes sense to you. 
You are dealing with the fact that there are several choices for battery/RC for our trains, Good luck sorting them out..

Jerry


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

All regular stick type 2.4 Ghz Transmitters are different. There are no two in existence that are the same. 
Unfortunately various brands use different operating protocols. The most common use DSM2 - DSMX protocols such as Spektrum, Orange, Deltang and RCS. 
RCS & Deltang transmitter hand pieces are in small cases that can be held in and operated by one hand. They use knobs for speed control and buttons for accessories.









Receivers are bound to transmitters and can easily be swapped between TX's for double heading etc.
You can bind as many RX - ESC's to one TX as you wish. You can operate them one at a time or ganged together. 

Fortunately all 2.4 Ghz R/C systems output the same servo signals so pretty well any brand of ESC can be used with them.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

This is all somewhat overwhelming lol

I'm sensing my frustration is rubbing off. I apologize for that but I'm very in experienced with all of this. I'm going to try and find the video of my RS-3 and it's battery car.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)




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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

A lot to absorb. You need a mentor. 

Jerry


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

*I am learning r/c battery myself*

I have started converting most of my engines to battery power. I am using the Airwire 900. G-3 decoder for all except my USA F-3 A_B_A. Finally got it down pat and just did a consist off track and all three engines responded the way they are supposed to do.
I did no read all of the above comments so forgive me if I repeat something.
Ditch the powere tool battery, Get with one of the dealers who will talk with you and I did that with one of the Airwire folks and they will spend time with you while you learn the system
I have learned, that when all else fails. Read the manual very carefully.
I run live steam as well and am beginning to really like what I see in battery powereed engines.
Takes some time to learn but if you are not above 79 like I am you have plenty of time to learn.
Not an add but go 2.5 and whatever suits your taste.
Lots of luck, and as Al says at CVP, it is just ahobby.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks for that gibs035, I needed reminded... Usually I'm very relaxed when "playing trains. I got frustrated because two days ago everything was perfect! I did something I normally do not do and brought a ton of equipment out with limited time... I spent more time bringing it out and cleaning it up than I did running trains! I'm 40 and feel very blessed I got into this at my age. I've always had trains (HO) and my boys have a nice little HO layout. It wasn't until a customer of mine gave me an F3 A/B, 10 cars and 65 feet of track three years ago that got me hooked on the large scale. Always wanted it but thought I'd never be able to afford it... 

When you say "Not an add but go 2.5 and whatever suits your taste" What do you mean by that? 

And Jerry.... Want the job? lol

Actually Jerry, that's kind of why I joined this forum, to be mentored by people with experience. I must admit though that some of the things I read are like Chinese!


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Mentor in person vastly superior to this electronic media....


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> Thanks for that gibs035, I needed reminded... Usually I'm very relaxed when "playing trains. I got frustrated because two days ago everything was perfect! I did something I normally do not do and brought a ton of equipment out with limited time... I spent more time bringing it out and cleaning it up than I did running trains! I'm 40 and feel very blessed I got into this at my age. I've always had trains (HO) and my boys have a nice little HO layout. It wasn't until a customer of mine gave me an F3 A/B, 10 cars and 65 feet of track three years ago that got me hooked on the large scale. Always wanted it but thought I'd never be able to afford it...
> 
> When you say "Not an add but go 2.5 and whatever suits your taste" What do you mean by that?
> 
> ...


What I meant was that I was not making a commercial. By 2.4 I meant gigahertz control.
I am using Reideer RR for my supplies and they have been very helpful in getting my head straight in working with the Airwire wire. I am using the t5000 now and find it real easy to use.
Art Gibson
I am sure there are other vendors that can help you.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Hmm, can buy a lot of stainless steel track with $1200.

Are you so sure you want to give up on track power?

Sounds like you are trying to save money.

Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

In the Battery R/C forum sir?


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Yes. I'm sure I want to give up on track power. 

And **** yeah I'm trying to save money! Why wouldn't I? Lol

Jerry, I know mentoring in person is far superior lol


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Totalwrecker said:


> In the Battery R/C forum sir?




Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

John, yes indeed, many "use battery" posts on track powered forums, even the DCC forum... I don't need to defend this... what is sauce for the goose....

FishGuy: saving money, it would be cheaper to make your track work electrically... much cheaper since your investment should only be labor. I won't try to drill down and find why you cannot do it...

So, to save money, make a few trail cars that have batteries and something like the Aristo Revolution in it... it has sound, lots of control features, and is inexpensive.

So a boxcar with a battery, receiver, speaker with a 2 pin plug to connect to the loco will be cheapest. a step up would be a connector with more pins, and you could bring the lighting control and the speaker power forward to the loco.

A bit more labor, but very little cost.

Regards, Greg


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

*Cost of airwire*



Greg Elmassian said:


> Hmm, can buy a lot of stainless steel track with $1200.
> 
> Are you so sure you want to give up on track power?
> 
> ...


For129.00 drop in decoder, 89.00 battery, 150.00 t5000 transmitter and 100.00 plus Phoenix sound.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

It's not that I cannot do it. I just don't want to.

I have no problem with trailing cars. 
I don't need sound.
And again I say, the hobby must support itself.
If I choose to upgrade then I will sell something. 
My busy season is upon us. 
Time is limited.
All I want to do is run trains when I want to run trains. 
Relatively hassle free. 

All I've ever had or ever known is track power. 
ALL of this is new to me. 
All of it. 
Please be patient with me.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

That's $468.00 minus $100 because I don't need sound. 
Plus a charger for said battery(s)
Now add outfitting three more engines. 
That's roughly $1200 to use Airwire. 
The number doesn't scare me. 
It's just simply making the choice to go that route.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

You know me.......JUST to induce a little levity...........




























These are three battery powered locos that is a project I have been working on for about the last year. Away from my Fn3 stuff in the meantime while building these. These are 1/8 scale on 7-1/2 inch gauge track. Weight about 350# each and a little over 5 feet plus couplers. The engine in the rear (all black trucks) is my original electric loco built about 30 years ago. A couple of buddies and I decided to build 7 more of this original. The two engines connected to the original is a result. Note the original painted and lettered cab sitting on the adjacent track and the new cab on the shelf on the wall of the barn/shed.Since these photos were taken, I have added a third and fourth loco to the stable. We should have an additional two more by early next month. The seventh engine is having its trucks completed and will be up for sale when completed. Price not set yet.

BTW, the large work caboose on the adjacent track is 3-3/4 inch per foot scale. This would be 2 foot gauge car.

Sorry for the hijack, but the thread was starting to get a little "testy".


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Ha ha ha! We've got the Lake Erie live steamers club around here, cool stuff!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> Thanks Steve, I'll check it out too. I use the Train Engineer now but with track power...


The first battery+r/c loco I converted used the Train Engineer in the tender. 
Once you have a remote controller that manages the voltage on your track, it is a simple to use the same track control box inside your loco, being powered by a battery instead of a big transformer. It will easily fit in a boxcar along with the battery. If you already have a TE, you can save some money.

Crest also make a smaller receiver for your smaller engines. I used a couple of the older Aristo on-board rcvrs - one still works in my C-16.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Greg Elmassian said:


> John, yes indeed, many "use battery" posts on track powered forums, even the DCC forum... I don't need to defend this... what is sauce for the goose....
> -snip-
> Lighten up, you've talked down to me for my 'gaffs'.....


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

So Pete what you're telling me is I can use my existing hand held remote?! I will investigate this further if that's the case! 

Interesting...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great, trailing cars will save you money.
You don't need sound, but basically you get it "free" with the Revolution, which is about the best bang for the buck in my opinion.

I'm not sure what the rest of your post is telling me though .

The hobby must support itself? Are you making money from trains? Tell me how!!! 

Greg



TheFishGuy said:


> It's not that I cannot do it. I just don't want to.
> 
> I have no problem with trailing cars.
> I don't need sound.
> ...


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I feel your fustration as I am another one that lacks depth of wallet to just "go" out and buy everything I need to covert over to battery RC. I am slowly working my way there. I purchased 2 Keithco Locolinc transmitters and several receivers for a really cheap price from a member on another large scale forum. I however do not like trailing cars and prefer the batteries to be on board. At the same time I would want atleast 4 hours of run time out of my LGB mogul and 2095 Austrian diesel on battery power. So, my next step are batteries and a charger for them. For now I am still on track power. My hobby budget is almost zero right now, so, the only means is by self supporting. I will get on battery power, hopefully later this summer. Only have 2 engines to convert thankfully. Good luck and dont let it stress you out. Mike


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Can I use the Crest CRE57002 in a trailing car and control it with my existing 55470 train engineer wireless walkaround?


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes you can.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

now you are getting it!

later when you get more, you could build them into the loco itself.

Greg


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Nice


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Air Wire would work well for you. The only programing to get started would be to change address if you are running multiple locomotives. The T5000 makes this very easy. The Phoenix P8 works very well, that can be added later.

http://www.reindeerpass.com/cvp-products-air-wire.aspx


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> Can I use the Crest CRE57002 in a trailing car and control it with my existing 55470 train engineer wireless walkaround?


I don't think so. The CRE57002 is a 2.4Ghz device (I think) and the 55470 is older 27Mhz FM technology. You can use the trackside CRE-55471 Receiver in your trailing car - just connect it to an 18-24V battery. There's a lot of information on Greg's website/page:
http://www.elmassian.com/trains/dcc...emote-control/aristo-rc/27-mhz-train-engineer

All you have to do is find an older CRE55471. try asking in the "For Sale" section.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sorr, I might have missed the question, I read if he could use the normal Revo receiver in a trail car... I missed if he was asking about using the original style TE transmitter with the Revo.

Pete is indeed correct, the older TE system is (mostly) 27 MHz, and will not work with the newer Revolution system which is 2.4 GHz and a completely different protocol.

Good catch Pete...

My advice is, again, the new Revo system and trail cars. Cost and time are the priorities that have been expressed, this meets both.

Greg


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

That will teach me to actually know what I am talking about before opening my mouth.
I (wrongly) assumed they were both 27 MHz trackside devices which can be used on board as a low cost way of getting started in battery R/C.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks guys! I appreciate it!


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Alright Gregory, could you please recommend where to purchase said system.

Also what exactly do I purchase? 
I am new to this. NEW... Lol

Thank you!


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

WE have the Revolutions


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Who's we? Lol


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

"We" is Robby. He is a dealer, well respected.

His website is in his signiture. At least for me it isn't an active link when I click on it in the signature. Copy and paste it into your browser window and it will work.

Chuck


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

I don't see a signature. Apparently I need to fire up my computer as I'm on my iPhone. 
1000 apologies.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

__________________
Robby Dascotte


www.rldhobbies.com

Now the link works, click on it.

The signature is what appears below a solid line after the main message of the post. Some use it, some don't. 

Chuck


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## The Tinker (Sep 11, 2014)

You will be impressed with the Crest Revolution controls, might even plug and play in aristo loco. I use the crest battery and charger set up. This works out very reasonable to convert each loco and have all functions working, except smoke. Costs about $200 a loco for battery, sound and light functions


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Lol Thanks guys, I know what a signature is lol I'm well versed in the operations of forums! I belong to about 30 lol

Signatures, links and emojis do not show up on the iPhone version of the forum. 

Thank you again for your responses and for dealing with my extreme in experience when it comes to converting my trains over to battery!


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

TheFishGuy said:


> ...
> Signatures, links and emojis do not show up on the iPhone version of the forum.
> ...


Emojis? I have a desktop computer and I don't even get those. What am I missing out on? 

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

In my opinion the revo is OK, but very limited in function outpurts for high current needs like a relay or incandescent lamp. Of course one can add smoke boards but this is an additional cost. I want a single unit to do all without adding pieces all over the place.

My decoders do everything in one unit and I can drive all lights, smoke, speaker, motors (including smoke motors) with no additional add-ons.

There are systems for battery operation that can do most of this available.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Hmmn. Completely different on my lap top... 

I can now see the smiley faces and the eyes rolling and all the bull c.rap. 

Thanks for your patience!

You're going to need and FX5 in your 125 if you plan to keep astronotus ocellatus, petinia splendida, amphilophus lyonsi and caquetaia umbriferus together. Weekly 50% water changes would be required. One species will end up killing all the rest. Try and guess which one.


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Dan Pierce said:


> My decoders do everything in one unit and I can drive all lights, smoke, speaker, motors (including smoke motors) with no additional add-ons.


 And those would be? 

Just searched the thread looking for what you use. Page one was the last time you responded... Still don't know lol


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Sorry FishGuy. It was a face palm moment for me. I didn't know you had one of those itty bitty inty nety iPhoney thingy majigamies. 
I keep away from them. I'm a luddite when it comes to mainstream tech. 

Andrew


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Greg Elmassian said:


> The hobby must support itself? Are you making money from trains? Tell me how!!!
> 
> Greg


 Yes. I buy and sell trains. I buy them from people who can't market their items if their life depended on it. Then re-sell them. Latest was an auction on ebay that I purchased for $165. It was a G "set. An engine, six cars and a gandy dancer.

Sold the engine for $140. The gandy dancer for $85. Also sold two of the cars for like $20 each. Kept the rest. So yes. I make money on trains. 

I also breed rare Central and South American cichlids. Sometimes the train hobby supports the fish. Sometimes the fish supports the train hobby.

So now do you understand how the hobby supports its self? If it cannot generate funds it will not grow.



Greg Elmassian said:


> Note: After over 16,000 posts, and the acrimony from the anti-bully and liquid refreshment imbibers, responding may not be not worth it. If you have questions just use private email.
> 
> 
> Greg


 This just kills me... 

So you like to post a lot? LMAO


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I didn't know you had one of those itty bitty inty nety iPhoney thingy majigamies.


I noticed a few weeks ago that MLS works very well on a phone. They have a simplified interface set up for a smaller screen and fewer options, but I use it when I am on the road. 



> This just kills me...
> 
> So you like to post a lot? LMAO


Greg got the award (figuratively) for most posts a few years back when he crossed 10,000. He then said he was tired and retired. For at least 2 months . . .


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Lol I haven't been on or used forums for quite a while. Used to spend a lot of time on them giving advice so I understand how hard it is to deal with someone who doesn't have the slightest clue... Like me!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

FishGuy:

I do post a lot, and have been on longer than you, so I have a lot of posts. You can look them up and they speak for themselves.

Thanks for clarifying that the hobby is also a business for you, that helps understand and good for you making it so, it's a total loss for me ha ha!

My signature reflects a lot of history here and on other forums you probably don't know about. If you knew the history, then you would understand it completely.

Regards, Greg


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

Lol, not a business. Hobby money stays in the hobby. It doesn't pay my bills. It doesn't feed me or my family. It's for the hobby. So no, not a business. Just a smart way to grow and expand. 

I'm gonna leave the excessive posting alone, lol. I've been around enough forums long enough and ran enough of them to know. 

It doesn't matter if the forum is about trains fish or boats... They're all the same with all the same types of people.  

Gotta have thick skin to post on a forum of any kind. Lots of people like to hide behind their keyboard! And just to clarify, that was a general statement not directed at anyone in this thread. 

Lots of people with lots of opinions. I'm more interested in your experiences in real life, not your experience on a forum. Just because people post a lot doesn't make them an expert. Again, a general statement not directed at anyone. 

-peace


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, I'd also leave the term "excessive posting" alone. Read my posts and you will retract that statement if you are fair and objective.

Excessive posting is where people keep posting "me too" or posts that don't help the person or thread.

Sorry about the business, yes, you were clear that your "operation" of buying and selling supports your hobby. The profits of this "operation" buys your new toys. While the IRS would consider it a business, since you are making a profit (since you are indeed getting more trains), I can appreciate the distinction you are making, the profits only go to your hobby.

Don't ever brag to the wife about it though!  She may want a "cut". 

Regards, Greg


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

I've got two hours before picking up a kid from a birthday party... I'm going to go back through this thread and google the snot out of everything I don't understand or know what exactly it is! lol Oddly enough, I ran trains today with zero issues...





 
ps. I'm lucky. My wife is pretty cool. Very supportive and she tolerates me and my fish and train nerdisms...


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## TheFishGuy (Feb 1, 2011)

After much deliberation and consultation with the boss (wife) I'm going to go with Airwire. 

Thank you very much to those who responded and offered advice. I'm going to start by selling the six storage bins of items I've collected and am never going to use. Most of which are HO items. 

Again, I appreciate all of the input! You guys are great!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good for you, you will enjoy virtually all the advanced features a DCC system has.

A wise choice, since you do not want track power.

Greg


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

TheFishGuy said:


> After much deliberation and consultation with the boss (wife) I'm going to go with Airwire.
> 
> Thank you very much to those who responded and offered advice. I'm going to start by selling the six storage bins of items I've collected and am never going to use. Most of which are HO items.
> 
> Again, I appreciate all of the input! You guys are great!


We stock the complete Line.


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