# 14-16' sectional options or hand laid?



## rcb (Jan 3, 2012)

While I am still reading up on hand laying (difficult as I understand it) I have also looked at sectional track. However, I haven't seen much in the larger varieties. LGB has (had) the 18000 series which is about 16'? What other options are out there or is hand laying the way to go for large radii rail?


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## bruja (Jan 7, 2008)

Llgas Creek makes flex track and with rail benders you can create any [email protected] url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

There are benders that can make what ever radius/diameter you wish. Many use 5' lengths of straight track as 8' sticks are more $ to ship. You will have to make adjustments to compensate for shorter outside rails. On Aristo track there are screws under the ties that should be removed and some cut the sprue webs between the ties on the side that becomes the outside rail, to allow the ties to spread apart some. 
There are comercial bendes that bend both rails at the same time, there have also been threads here about making your own bender. 

John


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## HeavyFreight (Oct 4, 2008)

Please forgive my ignorance, I am also planning on starting a garden railway and will be using the floating method to set the track. The response above from bruja seems to indicate that even with flex track, rail benders are still required. Keep in mind, the only flex track Ive layed hands on is the HO scale stuff which to my knowledge won't hold a permanent bend. So by the response above, it seems that 1:29 flex track is more rigid and will hold a bend. Is this correct?? I am planning on using 3 or 5' length straight sections of track and a rail bender to handle my curved sections.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

There are 4 types of material one can chose for rail for flex track. You buy sticks of rail and insert them in to tie strips, then bend. For rail you may choose from aluminum, brass, Nickel silver, and stainless steel. With the rails inserted in to the tie strips you then run the bender back and fourth along a section adjusting it until you get to desired curve. It is possible to bend the aluminum rail by hand but the curve is often inconsistent and not smooth. It also puts a lot of strain on the spike heads during the bending risking damage to you tie strips. Brass is much much harder to bend by hand if not impossible. Don't even think of trying to bend Stainless without a bender.

Rail comes in three codes or heights in inches: .215 .250 and .332 I choosing rail you must think of how you will want to operate. If you run track power then you will want brass or stainless if you run Steam or battery then any will work. Then there are standard or narrow gauge ties to choose from. There are lots of things to consider....


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I have to recommend curving your own track (I use Sunset Valley stainless) for only one reason: you can't begin[/i] to do stuff like this with sectional track...











There's a real satisfaction in getting those smooth transitions, and you have possibilities that sectional track can't accomodate.

Another plus: some people aren't adept at planning on paper (I can name at least one such person). I find it to more enjoyable to just bend/unbend as I go. Often things suggest themselves that I'd never see otherwise. 
JackM


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## fsfazekas (Feb 19, 2008)

That's B-E-A-utiful, Jack! Love some more details on that car barn/storage at the upper left. Nice work!




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## rcb (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks for the responses. I had considered ME's 332 rail, being a fan of Micro Engineering's other products. 

Anyone have any opinions?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

rail benders are still required 
Even with aluminum track, railbenders are required or you'll end up with kinks at the joints or not-very-smooth curves. 
My outdoor layout was all floating track on a crushed rock ballast. I used Llagas track bases slid onto 6' rail sections. The rail was pre-bent with a bender.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

just for the record: 
if you are a bit short on money, there is another option. 
buy cheap used R1 (4 foot diameter/2 foot radius) curves and "bellybend"* them. it will be timeconsuming, difficult to get the curves and straights right, but satisfying and cheap. 

(* i first bend one rail with a small hammer to the desired form, slip it on the tie webs, than bend the other rail to fit the ties.)


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For track power, 1 footers are not good outdoors as there are way to many connections that can go bad. 

Stick with 4 foot or more. I use rail clamps, and for 1 footers that would be an added cost that would make the 5 footers cheaper. 

Belly bend 1 foot brass or any other brass, I do not think that is easy, depends on a persons strength. A dual bender works well here, and the rails must be clamped to keep them uniform. 
I have 'fine tuned' brass with a belly bend, but the rail bender is much easier. Train-Li bender is fantastic, works right out of the box. It is so heavy you do not need to press down, just glide it on the rails. Great for tuning track set in ballast.


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## rcb (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks, I'll check out that bender. I'll be going with battery power (once we do get around to this) but to me it seems as though the short sections might still be more expensive to do the same length. But I'm sure your experience is sound.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

" Love some more details on that car barn/storage at the upper left. "



This is the link to the thread about the train shed.

I have to say I'm still very pleased with the result. Last summer was the hottest ever here (anything over 90 degrees used to be rare) and everything kept its cool under the Lexan. No problems with bugs, rodents, etc., and no re-alignments of the track needed. Thompson Waterseal on the cedar looks practically new. However, I expect that next summer I'll be redesigning the yard tracks. I think I can change the entry angle of the lead to allow a more normal-looking ladder. I must've had my blinders on last summer.

Best news: after a full summer under the Lexan I see absolutely NO fading on any of my rolling stock, whether factory paint or my own paint (PolyScale + Krylon). So far, the Lexan is living up to it's ten-year no-UV guarantee.

Thanks for your kind comments.

JackM


Also - in the train shed story linked to above, there's a link to a 30 sec. video of cars being moved into the shed. It's no big deal but it takes forever to load. I put it up on YouTube for a quicker viewing experience, so use this link instead:
http://youtu.be/2OAS-E6zU7o


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