# Material for turnout base?



## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

I am looking for a material to attach my turnouts too for a stable base. I went to Home Depot and they have Hardiebacker in 1/4" and Hardibacker 500 (0.42" thick). Does the Hardiebacker delaminate or swell where the cut edges are exposed to water? Their website indicates Hardiebacker is for interior.

There is also Wonderboard in 1/4" and 1/2" thick. 

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tommy, the stuff I bought was about 1/2 inch, don't buy the 1/4, it will warp over time... the stuff I bought is waterproof.... it has been sitting out naked in the elements on my switchyard for several years, not one problem. 











Regards, Greg


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Holy cow Greg! That's some _serious _trackage!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That side of the house is mine mine mine... 

There will be 2 short tracks from the turnouts you see. The track in the far right is the switching lead, it's a double ended yard so 2 guys can work trains. The track on the left is the eventual continuation of the mainline. The body tracks are all 15 feet long, as much as I could squeeze in the limited space... but the design of the yard minimizes S curves, all switches are Aristo SS WR except for the ones off the main line, so really long cars can be handled. 

Regards, Greg 

p.s. all turnouts air powered and remotely controlled from the wireless throtle.


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Greg,

I was going to use 1/4 HardieBacker but now I'll look at 1/2" Wonderboard. I'm also going to take a look at HardiePlank. I have 12 turnouts that I am switching over to air power.








Ever since I saw your layout, I knew I wanted air for my turnouts.









Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

One thing I learned was that if you use ballast, you need to either glue the turnout to the hardibacker or you need to accept the fact that a little ballast will work under the turnout. Once a little ballast gets under one end, it works the turnout away from the wonderboard. 

After having this and other turnouts on the backer board, I have it so there's a thin layer of ballast. Looks better and allows some fine "adjustments" in track height while still providing a strong and flat base. 


On the picture below, some of the ballast has been pulled away to show the backer board, normally the ballast would be higher and cover the edges of the backer board. the projection around the motor was more because I trimmed the backer board in place with a saber saw.











Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Tommy,
The tile backer will work fine. I use it for building bases and to give extra support inside buildings. Some of it has been sitting directly on the ground here in the rainy northwest for three years now with no deterioration. I have been using 1/4",but 1/2 would be safer. The Hardie Plank will fall apart if exposed to prolonged moisture.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Tommy,
See George Schreyer's posts in this thread: Best base material? He clears up some misconceptions about Hardibacker® vs. Wonderboard®


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, what he says exactly parallels my experience... I must have wonderboard.... just look for the most expensive stuff that is 1/2 inch and waterproof... 

The switch yard has supports under it every 1 foot, so you can walk on it. 

Regards, Greg


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

I used 1/4" thick Grey PVC Plastic sheet cut to fit under mine. No problems what so ever after 7 years... 
Russ


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## H-man (Jan 4, 2008)

I used the 1/4" hardi Backer and glued 2 pieces together with Tightbond II yellow glue then placed the boards directly on a gravel sub surface to keep the water from sitting under the boards. some have been down for 10 years with no damage. Turnouts are wood ties also glued with Tightbond II and all is good. Make sure of two things, When you cut with a saw use dust mask and good ventilation to prevent "Silica" inhalation (not good for the lungs) and prevent ballast from being loose around the throwbar as this will jam the bar and drive you nuts. I also glued the balast to the Hardi backer with diluted Tight bond II and you have to chisel it off. I live in AZ and the rail road gets quite a bit of moisture on it through the year. 

PS I found the 1/4 inch stuff easier to work with score with a knife and break like drywall. not tooo heavy. 
Howard


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I use a steel plate under a turnout or pour a concrete pad.


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for all the input.
Finally got around to working on my switches. First I attached the air operated switches. I didn't like the big rectangular opening on the LGB switches so I epoxied a piece of railroad tie to cover the hole, then drilled a new smaller hole. I used 1/2 Wonderboard (cement board) and glued the switch to it with silicone, then brushed thinned out Titebond II between the ties and sprinkled crusher fines.
This switch was in sorry shape so I epoxied the rail to the ties where they had come loose. I also soldered jumper wires to maintain conductivity. 11 more switches to go.






































Later,

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Looking good Tommy, glad to see you have joined the "air corps"! 

Regards, Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great Tommy!


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