# Rail Clamps



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello All
I have been looking around the web for the best deal on code 332 rail clamps the ones that go over the LGB joiners since most of my track is already down and I don't want to disturb it too much. I have used split jaws and a few others but I like the split jaws the best since they seem to be the strongest. I noticed an AD at the top of this forum from AML advertising over the rail joiners at .99 a piece. This sounds like a deal but how are they? Has anyone used them and will they hold up? I'm concerned about the quality since since some of the no name ones I had broke. 
What and where would you guys recommend I go to make my purchase. I'm looking for about 50 over the joiner ones and maybe 25 over the rail.
Thanks.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

CCT,

I know of a couple of guy's that used AML clamps and liked them.

Don


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

I agree with Don, for the money AML ones work well. We just built a RR for A new guy in the club and we used AML track and rail clamps and all is running well. They look like hillmans and they come in either regular or slip over rail joiners







Also got them from RLD and they were even cheaper than 99 cents


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

This summer I bought 50 of the over the joiner AML clamps from RLD by mistake. I wanted the over the rail type. I needed them for an expansion that I was doing while I had a week off from work and he was going on vacation and wasn't going to be available for the time I needed them so I just went ahead and used them. They worked out great. No problems, but I can't say anything about how well they will hold up over the winter. But I guess I can't see why they should give me any trouble. Next time I'll make sure I order the over the rail type, but that was my mistake not his. 

Bob in Kalamazoo


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I will proffer the experience of others, which I researched before buying clamps, and still hear to this day: No matter how tight you get the over the joiner clamps, dirt and grit can still work into the joiner itself. 

I found it quite easy to remove joiners without pulling track up. My entire layout was down and I swapped out joiners for clamps without pulling up track. 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

My RR has been down for over 7 years using the over the rail joint clamps. Still operating with no problems. I think if you get them tight you will be fine. I still think the jury is out on this debate. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, but your trackwork would not DARE to fail !









I think it might depend on the type of grit, dirt and climate....

Regards, Greg


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 10 Aug 2009 04:13 PM 
I will proffer the experience of others, which I researched before buying clamps, and still hear to this day: No matter how tight you get the over the joiner clamps, dirt and grit can still work into the joiner itself. 

I found it quite easy to remove joiners without pulling track up. My entire layout was down and I swapped out joiners for clamps without pulling up track. 

Regards, Greg 
Greg, I've heard all of those experiences and I did not want to use over the joiner clamps, but it was either that or wait for Robby to get back (after my week off from work was over). I figured, OK, lets try this out and see what I think. If I have to change them in a couple of years I will have learned a valuable lesson.
Bob


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## Joe McGarry (Jan 4, 2008)

For what it's worth. I would tend to agree with Greg on this one. Get rid of the loiners if you can. Sooner or later you'll get corrosin in the joint. I used Hillman clamps on my layout. Running about four hundred feet of track with one "temporary" feeder with no problems. Track is two years old now and no bad connections in the joints.

Joe


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If I was to use the over the joiner clamps, I would try to loosen the joiners, shoot some spray grease into them, and then tighten, and then add the clamps. 

That way if anything worked it, it would be grease, not dirt or moisture. 

A little insurance? 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

This is what I have done. Just remember there is a difference in SS track and brass track rail joiners. Yes the brass will fail over time. I'm using all SS so no problems with the way I lay my track. If I had to do all over again yes would consider using the rail to rail clamps. But as we say in the the hobby if it ain't broke no need to fix. Later RJD


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been using brass track aristo with the screws that come with the track. They work well. As I have joint problems I add the aristo rail joiners. I have heard you get what you pay for as for quality. To be honest I have not had any issues with them. For the price, $8 and change for ten, you cant beat them. I didnt realize tri-li rail joints are about the same price. 
As for brass I learned from some local guys to use Ideal - noalox ant-loint compound. You can get it at lowes or any home box store. Just put some on the joints and it keeps the joints from getting that buid up. The guys I learned this from have had it on their rail joints for years and when they take them apart the joints are like new still. For older joints just clean up the joints with a dremel and add.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

You could just add jumper wires and save your money for something else. This looks better, bond wires between track sections are prototypical, and is even less prone to failure than rail clamps at a fraction of the cost. If you use 16 gauge "bond" (ground) wire, you don't even have to strip it.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you do something like Todd suggests (even though you asked about clamps) be sure to do as he did and use STRANDED wire. It has some give/stretchiness. 

If you use solid wire, you need to make a "U" shape that won't break loose from expansion and contraction pulling on the solder joint. 

(straight wire with no slack will break loose) 

Regards, Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 11 Aug 2009 03:15 PM 
If I was to use the over the joiner clamps, I would try to loosen the joiners, shoot some spray grease into them, and then tighten, and then add the clamps. 

That way if anything worked it, it would be grease, not dirt or moisture. 

A little insurance? 

Regards, Greg I think I'd spray contact cleaner in the loosened joiner, tighten it up and the railclamps then cover with the spray grease.... bare metal to bare matal and then weather treated.

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've tried that John, but the contact cleaner is designed to mostly evaporate, maybe a very thin film left... there are heavier-bodied products like the stuff from CRC that will "weather" better. 

But grease is nice and thick, and the joiners are not form-fitting to the rails, so you need something as thick as grease or vaseline to fill the gaps... (remember I am speaking of the metal joiners not the clamps). 

I like the spray grease, I have found the spray white lithium grease works well. 


Regards, Greg


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

I took the advise of the wise individuals from this forum and went and purchased rail clamps. I bought the AML ones from RDL (good grief! I thought the computer industry had the corner on acronyms!) and they are VERY cost effective. 

Rich


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for all the info and advice. I went ahead and ordered a bunch of the AML clamps. I have been using conductive grease with the rail joiners and now I'm putting a clamp on them and it seems to be working well so far. Probably the best and most cost effective way for a good conductive bond is soldering the jumper wires but it sure seems like a daunting task when I look at all the jumps I would need to make. I think the clamps will be fine. 
Todd


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