# Threading Dies



## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

I have never been able to get threading dies to cut a good thread. As a result I have learned to single point with some degree of success. But I'm making a valve stem where the thread is some distance from the end forcing the material to stick out a ways from the chuck. The single point deflects the material (.093 SS) enough to make the process less than ideal. But the 3-48 die makes horrible thread profiles. Don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any thoughts?

royce


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## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

Royce said:


> I have never been able to get threading dies to cut a good thread. As a result I have learned to single point with some degree of success. But I'm making a valve stem where the thread is some distance from the end forcing the material to stick out a ways from the chuck. The single point deflects the material (.093 SS) enough to make the process less than ideal. But the 3-48 die makes horrible thread profiles. Don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any thoughts?
> 
> royce


PS The die is held in a tail stock die holder on a lathe so alignment should not be the issue.


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## zephyra (Jan 2, 2008)

Royce said:


> PS The die is held in a tail stock die holder on a lathe so alignment should not be the issue.


It is worth spending money to get good quality dies. I started with kits off Ebay/Amazon but soon realised that they were good for little more than refreshing existing threads. For example a Newman tools 3-48 die is $36. On Amazon you can get a 60 piece kit for not much more. 

Robert


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

You could try a carbon steel die. Does it have to be Stainless?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

zephyra said:


> It is worth spending money to get good quality dies. I started with kits off Ebay/Amazon but soon realised that they were good for little more than refreshing existing threads. For example a Newman tools 3-48 die is $36. On Amazon you can get a 60 piece kit for not much more.
> 
> Robert


I agree completely. With tools, as with everything else, you get what you pay for.


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## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

Exador said:


> You could try a carbon steel die. Does it have to be Stainless?


I've had these dies for so long I can't vouch for their quality. But I probably got them through MSC industrial before I discovered McMaster-Carr. So yeah, it may be the quality. 
Also, the material being threaded is stainless, not the die.


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## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

zephyra said:


> It is worth spending money to get good quality dies. I started with kits off Ebay/Amazon but soon realised that they were good for little more than refreshing existing threads. For example a Newman tools 3-48 die is $36. On Amazon you can get a 60 piece kit for not much more.
> 
> Robert


I have learned the lesson on tool quality. No more "inexpensive".
So here's what I did. First pic is what I'm trying to duplicate. Second is the "solution" (a long end support). Third is the result. And the last is what the die generated.
And it's a 3/32-48 thread. It's the valve for the alcohol in a chicken feed system. (no butane for me). The overall length is close to 4".


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## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

Dwight Ennis said:


> I agree completely. With tools, as with everything else, you get what you pay for.


Hi Dwight. Long time no talk to. I've finally gotten to the point where I can spend full time working on my sp #18. Working on the tender now - specifically the alcohol tank. I'm guessing that you're retired now . . . and having time to play trains?

royce


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Some of the stainless is almost impossible to thread. I always use 303 stainless it is non magnetic and corrosion resistant and machines very well


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## Royce (Sep 16, 2013)

bille1906 said:


> Some of the stainless is almost impossible to thread. I always use 303 stainless it is non magnetic and corrosion resistant and machines very well


Thanks for that insight. I don't know what type of stainless it is. Came out of my "materials" pile. It's obviously not ground stock as can be seen in the pics. Next time I'll get some 303 per your suggestion. I'm sure that would be fine in an alcohol environment.

royce


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## DetailsDetails (Jul 28, 2021)

303 is indeed easier to machine. 
But it will corrode when wet or faced with cleaning products.
304 is a bit harder but still easy to work with and wont corrode as easily. 
Try different lubricants, super important on this. 
And never let it get hot. It hardens in a flash and then you can only grind.


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