# Building a new portable layout in W NY.



## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok guys (& ladies) I'm going to make this over the winter. I've got some preliminary sketches that will allow me a small 2 loop portable with an approximately 8 foot oval and a 10 foot oval. All in Code 250 track I think? I broke the sections up into 4 foot lengths as that way I can cut them all from standard plywood sheets as well as carry them by myself. I've not completely worked out the connections between sections and I've got some ideas on legs that may or may not work for me. Actually a few options. So we will see what I come up with. 

Layout plan in color


Layout plan in B and W

Chas


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Looking at the simplicity I would make the following suggestions. 

For joining the sections together, use overcenter latches. Draw latches, Style A on this page http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-over-center-draw-latches/=ep06e8 

For the legs I would use 1 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. Use a flange on the bottom of the plywood and insert the leg with no glue. Make an 'H' shaped leg like: 

_Edit: Picture to follow - doodle didn't work
_

Edit:









_Didn't have any PVC fittings in my library, used threadded brass to get the idea across._ 


On the bottom of each leg place a coupling with a plug drilled and tapped for a screw type leveler foot, or a pipe cap drilled and tapped. 

This arrangement will be light, strong and quick to set up. Blocks and dowel pins could also be used to assure alignment between sections. Electrical conductivity could be by 'Split Jaw' type connectors or just the plain standard rail joiners with jumper wires soldered to the rails with male/female spade terminals, or a 2 pin automotive type connector. 

My tuppence worth. 

Bob C.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you make the modules align with tapered dowel pings, you can even forgo joiners between modules... I've seen it work even in HO. 

Greg


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, 
Thanks! I'll look at the MC Master Carr latches. As for the legs I'm not sold on the PVC yet. I need to mock up a small wooden sawhorse first to see if that might work for me. Thought about building fold up legs from wood too. 

Greg, 
Do you have a source for the tapered pins and drill? I like the idea but do not ahve a ready source or tooling to produce them. 

I am hoping I can get the curved sections cut this week at home from the plywood I currently have at home. Assuming the weather holds out and the "honey do" list doesn't grow. My mother that lives with us will be leaving for a two week stay at my sisters in Massachusetts tomorrow. So some less work there but she does help out keeping an eye on the kids so the load balances out (I hope). 

Chas


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Chas Ill be reading this thread as well as the other for ideas. I hope to start up on mine soon.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Chas, 
For what it's worth I think you've seen my portable track at Ridge Road Station. I have almost 18" of vertical adjustment of the legs and at some outdoor setups I've used most all of it. 
Depends on where you'll be exhibiting. 
Tom


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom, 
It's been years since I've seen your layout in person and at least well before I owned a digital camera so the details on your layout are a bit fuzzy in my memory. I remember it being a true oval with little or no straights though? LEgs weren't important to me at the time. Heck at the time I wasn't even interested in live steam for myself. Thanks for the encouragement guys! 

Chas


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

While cutting up plywood last night for the tops of the curved sections I had a leg "epiphany". Well I should say I was thinking of tripod or 3 legged sawhorse styles while using a roller stand with the mitersaw. This morning it hit me...DOH! why not use the roller stands themselves? The one I'm using is not really expensive and all I'd need to do is remove the roller basically. 
So I searched Home Depot and they want $25 for the cheapest one they sell. PORTAMATE Adjustable 27 in. to 43 in. Pedestal Roller Stand 
Amazon wants $18.50 right now for a similar one. ProSeries PSAFRS Adjustable Height Folding Roller Stand 
Harbor Freight has them for $15. Central Machinery 132 Lb. Capacity Roller Stand

Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight in my future?


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shots of last night's progress:









All the tops cut out. 4 sections each from a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. 2 sheets produces a full circle. 

As I had some time and the weather was un-seasonably warm and dry I kept going. Cutting into my stock of 2x4's and 2x6's to screw & glue bracing underneath. 








The 2x6's were truly overkill and honestly added more weight that was not necessary but it's what I had in the garage to use.

Chas


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good. I have to start building mine soon.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

With the weather cooperating this weekend I got 4 sections of straight built. Well built as as far as the curves are done anyway, on Saturday evening. I had found some Home Depot Gift cards I had recieved earlier this year. So Saturday afternoon I drove down and picked up a sheet of 1/2 plywood and some 2x4's along with some 1x4 PVC trim board that I plan on using for the edging and a new box of screws. By dinner time I had these framed up.









I also grabbed 6 of the draw hasps they had...all they had in stock... so I will need 6 more. Planning on a pin and socket between the sections to align them as well. Have planned a trip to Harbor Freight in December to pick up the roller stands to convert to adjustable legs. My plan at this point is to pick up paint and take the whole lot up to the lodge to use the dining room to set it up. Painting, checking for alignmentof the sections, and bending the track to fit and cutting it at the joints then.

Chas


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have posted elsewhere on this but thought I should update my own thread. The 25 +/- year old boiler that heated the whole Masonic Temple building (one thermostat for 5 floors and the basement) suffered a cracked plenum a few weeks ago and the thought is that while replacing that boiler would get heat back in the building that the 100 year old pipes and cast iron radiators are simply not up to the task anymore nor are they the most efficient. Sadly this was after spending major amounts of money on roof repairs and some other plumbing issues. We are planning on replacing with separate more modern heating systems on each floor that can be better zoned. Sadly the top two floors are private while the bottom three floors and the basement are all rental space. They get the priority to get heat. So unfortunately the heated space I ahd available to work on this is no longer heated. So painting my modules and doing final assembly is out of the question until A) I find another heated space B) the lodge gets the heat back on sooner than expected C) the weather gets better.... 

I'm hoping for B and settling on C. Honestly I've been fortunate to get as much as I've gotten done so far. 

I did manage to pick up the other needed 6 hasps that I will use to secure the sections together but I hesitate to continue until I can get some paint on the sections as the sit now. 

Chas


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