# Clamping Train Li switches



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Got to the first switch in my laying track and came to an issue. I removed the factory joiner, but the plastic tab on the bottom where the screw goes, and of course the screw itself, get in the way of using a clamp. I could easily remove the screw and cut off the tab, but in one area, the rail will then slide as there are no other screws holding that section to the tie. Short of drilling and tapping a new hole, what do others do? I'm using split jaw clamps.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, found the same thing with that switch... that rail is very short so that the switch can be used as a "curved" switch, i.e. the diverging route is a constant curve like LGB, or a "normal" switch, like the prototype. 

In order to do this, that rail has to be short. If it was me, I'd find an additional way to secure the rail, or add a small section of track permanently and then add the SJ to that piece. 

Greg


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Which switch are you using?
I am guessing your talking about the small inner rail just forward of the frog?

If your using the smaller switches and there isn't a screw present I would suggest picking up at least 1 screw to secure the rail in the bed.

On all 27 of my R7's I did remove the screw and cut off the tab and installed our rail clamps no issues at all, 
but there is still a one screw holding the rail to the bed just forward of the frog.


Ron


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

I had the same issue using the R4 switch. I thought about using the existing joiner or using an over the joiner clamp. I ended up removing the screw and joiner, cutting the tab, and using a Split Jaw clamp. With a clamp on the other track and the switch secured on both ends the rail really has no where to go. Might even help with expansion. I have had two R4 switches in place for just over a year and have had no problems so far. 
Steve


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Yep, R4 and yes the short rail in the curve out. I thought about just trying it without the screw and see if it holds, if not deal with it then. But honestly, I would have thought TrailLi would have prepared for it with a second screw or something.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They clearly did not consider people using clamps, or anything but the standard joiner. 


Greg


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

And mixing with aristo joiners is even an issue since they are longer.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By SLemcke on 28 Jan 2013 07:08 AM 
I had the same issue using the R4 switch. I thought about using the existing joiner or using an over the joiner clamp. I ended up removing the screw and joiner, cutting the tab, and using a Split Jaw clamp. With a clamp on the other track and the switch secured on both ends the rail really has no where to go. Might even help with expansion. I have had two R4 switches in place for just over a year and have had no problems so far. 
Steve 
I had bought some used LGB switches. The plastic that holds the rail to the ties was broken. I just made sure that the rail section it attached to was in good condition and the rail was firmly held in place by it's tab.

The switch worked fine. 

I used Hillman clamps but it really doesn't matter who s clamps you use they are about all the same.


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