# New track dirty already?



## oldpaddy (Mar 22, 2016)

Hi all, I set up a temporary layout in my yard yesterday and today the train will barely run. If I wipe the engine wheels and track, it lurches to the next dead spot. 
I'm using Bachmann brass 10x 5' long with 4' radius turns. (I got an amazing deal on the 5' track, $78 per box on amazon). Four days ago I had major work done on my yard and it is essentially a level sand pit and dusty. I live on cape cod and it's very salty and damp here. Last night we got an inch or two of snow that quickly started to melt. I assumed that the track was being shorted out by the snow. But now I realize the track and engine (Thomas engine for the kids) is dirty and or possibly oxidizing already. The track is almost one large dead spot. If I push the engine a little, it will lurch forward. 
All the wheels on the cars are metal and the track is new. I tested the engine on a spare 5' section that hadn't been used. At first the engine didn't move, I cleaned the wheels and the engine worked fine on the test track. But not the outdoor track. 
Yesterday it was working fine. I had it running for about an hour or two spread through out the day. 

Any help or advice would be appreciated. 

Thanks


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## RIrail (May 5, 2008)

Sounds like you've got a lot of sources for dirt and oxidation being on sand with salty air. You maybe tempted to use sand paper but DON'T, it will leave small scratches which will collect more dirt very quickly. I know a lot of folks use the green Scotch Brite pads on the end of a swiffer mop head and push it around the track a few times. They seem to get good results. Keep in mind due to your landscape and location, cleaning time will probably be as much as running time. You may want to invest in a cleaning car / rolling stock to pull with your train so you can clean while running. These usually consist of a Scotch Brite or rubber like pad mounted underneath with a weight added, some may have rollers like paint rollers mounted on an angle which with some cleaning fluid will clean as they roll. I think there are some cleaning fluids advertised in Garden Railways magazine. I am sure some folks will chime in on what works best for them and can give some first hand experiences. Remember the less abrasive the method the better to prevent scratches. Here are some links to some products:

http://www.reindeerpass.com/search.aspx?find=clean

http://www.reindeerpass.com/rail-kleen-1.aspx

http://www.nicholassmithtrains.com/store/product/57530/RAIL-CONDITIONER-2-OZ.-SIZE/

Here is a link to Greg's site which has a lot of excellent info on this and other subjects.

http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=228&Itemid=262

There is also battery conversion or stainless steel track.
Hope this helped.
Steve


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

The LGB cleaning block does work very well. I have used one for years in easy to reach spots.

#50040


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I live a mile from the Pacific ocean. I made a loop of USAT, Aristo, and LGB track.

worked fine after cleaning... overnight it oxidized enough to have jerky running the next morning, and nothing would run a day later.

SS rail solved the problem.

You may find ways to remove the oxidation more quickly but the salt air will do it.

You might try the automatic trans fluid on the rails and see if that inhibits oxidation... it will reduce traction... scrub the rails shiny, then put a few drops on and run trains around and see.. it does work for some.

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Have you done anything to ensure continunity at the rail joints?

Soldered jumpers are best, (and cheapest, but most difficult to install), followed by rail clamps then factory joiners.


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## oldpaddy (Mar 22, 2016)

Thanks a lot guys! I guess it was just oxidation. I used some carburetor cleaner on the track and the engine ran fine. I'm surprised at how quickly it oxidizes. I've had lionels indoors for years and oxidation isn't much of an issue. But now I know!
Thanks!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Be careful of that carburetor cleaner, it might attack plastic wheels.

The carb cleaners I have used, both spray and drip leave a little residue behind.

I'd try the Automatic Trans fluid trick, it does not attack plastic, and many people have used it.

Regards, Greg


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## ntpntpntp (Jan 14, 2008)

Bachmann loco wheels do seem to pick up the dirt more quickly than some other brands, so wheel cleaning is likely to be needed almost as often as cleaning the track.

Also consider whether condensation on the rail due to temperature changes might be a factor if running later in the evening? I don't know your environment at all, but it's something I've noticed here in England.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My experience is that the dew/condensation was definitely the major factor in the rapid oxidation here near the Pacific ocean. My humidity meter reads almost 100% at night.

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Cleaning brass track is a fact of life. If you are running outside, you always have to sweep debris from the track, in most environments. I always have leaves and twigs to remove. I can usually get rid of most of it by walking my track with a green Scotch Brite pad on a drywall sander in a minute so. This polishes the rail head and brushes the junk to the side. My mainline is adout 90' long. It is no big deal. It takes a lot longer to get the rolling stock out of the garage.

SS track is great for lack of oxidation, but in my layout under the trees, I'd still have to sweep the track.

Chuck

I'm not an expert in electricity, but I think that 3 rail AC Lionel track is more forgiving than our 2 rail DC.


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## oldpaddy (Mar 22, 2016)

I used rubbing alcohol yesterday and after twenty minutes of use, I started getting dead spots again. Not a big deal to clean though. 
It's always humid here. Cold and damp during the winter and hot and humid during the summer. If you don't like humidity, rust and bugs, you won't like cape cod during the summer.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Again I ask, what are you doing at the rail joints?

I know people who think they have dirty track. They are convinced because the train stops and when they push it past that point, it goes again. But they continually clean the area and the problem still manifests itself. 

But what is often happening is that when you give it a push, you are putting pressure on it, either to the side and/or downwards. This movement/force then is passed on to the track which makes a bit of movement at the rail joint. This latter movement is enough to get the current flowing again and the train moves off.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Referring to the above post: What kind of rail joiners as you using? I had issues with stock Aristo joiners but none since I went to clamps.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd be surprised if rubbing alcohol would do much on removing the oxide film that forms on the track. Alcohol is a good solvent for some organic stains. Your oxides are inorganic, not carbon based. A mild abrasive is your best choice. As I said earlier use a green scotch brite pad and polish the track.

Since your track is new, the joiners shouldn't be a problem. They will be a problem with time. Salt air will corrode your rail faster than on layouts farther inland. As others have said, do not use fine sandpaper or Emory paper, these will scratch the rail top creating more places for oxidation and dirt to collect.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

the idea here is to try something that leaves a thin film that blocks the oxygen from oxidizing the track. Whether or not alcohol helped the oxidation (and I'm as skeptical as Chuck), it evaporates completely and does nothing to retard oxidation.

Greg


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## Michael W (Oct 10, 2012)

I used Rail clamps filled with graphite grease on my layout, as part of the track runs under fruit trees I have a lot of plum and cherry residue on the track over christmas, I found a product called purple polish and the matching aluminium deoxidiser works wonders. You can buy it at your local Mack truck dealer. Usually the purple polish takes off any grime and stuck on stuff ( please use a cloth and only a drop or 2) a quick run afterwards with the deoxidiser from a soft sponge and another wipe gets the track back to shiny...


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

If you use a product like "Rail-Zip" or automatic transmission fluid (ATF), just put a few drops on the rail in one or two places and let the wheels spread it around. Too much will significantly reduce traction.

Chuck


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

Like Chuck said, I have some track that's 7 or 8 years old, that I used Bachmann conducting oil on, and I've never had to clean it. Just put a drop every once in a while, just a tiny bit, it's easy to over do it, on CLEAN track. I do it when the track is first used. You'll also find it layers on the locomotive wheels, and keeps them clean also. You'll know if you use too much, as you'll get wheel slip. 

Robert


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

From personal experience, don't use an abrasive as has been suggested in other threads, it only leads to further problems. Nick Jr


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

Chuck A lot of people might be thinking, why not go battery powered and dead rail. This way, track cleaning is not an issue. But battery does require some work on the locomotives and the addition of a trailing battery car and the required equipment and wireless controls.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And a lot more cost.

It's not like the effort to clean the oxide from the track makes people go screaming to battery.

Battery guys also need to clear the junk from the track.

Not all track oxide removal is hard, or takes a long time.

Personally I could not afford battery with the number of locos I have.

So, please, no need to invade a track powered thread, on a specific topic to suggest battery. The battery people go nuts when someone suggests track power on THEIR threads. 

So afford us sparkie guys the same courtesy huh?

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Greg. I could not afford to convert all of my engines to battery. I'm very happy with track power. It takes me less than a couple of minutes to clean my track. I do have several battery/RC engines, but that is so that I can run on layouts with dead track.

I have no desire to change any more engines.

Chuck


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Im building up my set, and looking at making 1 engine battery, to only use for pushing a rail sweeper, and pull a cleaning car ( dead weight block type ) to clear and clean the track. Probably running from the same batt as the sweeper.


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