# Ruby Dry Pipe



## Dave Hottmann (Jan 2, 2008)

After practicing boiler work on my cab forward, I decided to take my Ruby to the next level. I installed a 7/8"OD flue and a dry pipe. The larger flue gave it a 17% larger boiling surface and room for a bigger fire.

For the dry pipe I made a box corner cut at the throttle bushing for an internal steam dome. The drypipe is secured internally with 1/16 copper wire. Everything was soldered with 56% silver. 








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Since I now use a goodall valve, the question was when to stop pumping. So I installed a water level cock in the back of the boiler. At water stops I pump 10 times then open the cock. If steam comes out, I pump some more until water comes out. 








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In case anyone is wondering, the larger flue only decreased the water capacity by 5ml.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow! You have taken it to another level. I'm wondering, just how does this dry pipe work? I'm adding a steam dome to my ruby (real one I thought) but it is just a pipe that threads into the existing thread for the safety valve. The pipe comes up another 3/4" with an empty cavity and a smaller safety valve fits into it. Fortunately I'm still at the planing on stage. I'd appreciate some information on how you are doing yours and why.


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 
Where do you get your 56% silver solder paste and wire? 
I have been running the wheels off the Edrig since you put dual eccentrics on it and upgraded things. Thanks much. Now to put a dead leg metered oiler on it. Have it all laid out but have not been feeling up to par lately to tackle it. Facing a dang root canal. Just had one about a month or so ago. More pictures please of the boiler.
thanks
Noel


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## Dave Hottmann (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard, 

The drypipe picks up steam vapor, not liquid, from the top center of the boiler and delivers it to the throttle. This eliminates liquid water from going out the throttle when the water is sloshing around inside, especially when first clearing the cylinders. 

Noel, 

I get 56% silver solder paste from "Rio Grande" jewel supply. Part number 103099, at 1-800-545-6566. The paste is wonderful!!! They also have wire. 

There is "Radnor" Safety-Silv 56 brazing kit (wire and flux), which I get at the local "Airgas" welding supply. Safety-Silv is also available in 45%.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, other than being available in paste form, is there any advantage (lower temp?) to the 56% over the 45? 

Larry


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
As you probably know 45% silver w or wo cad. melts between 1125-1295 degrees and 56% melts between 1142-1205 degrees. Not much difference that I can see. Others jump in please. 
Dave, one more question please. What torch do you use in these projects. I have a Severt, but it seems too powerful for this type of work.
N


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## msimpson (Jan 5, 2009)

http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/ProductPage.aspx?assetName=103099 

$25.53 for just the solder -- neat site 

Regards, Mike


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave is holding back on us with the dry pipe and larger flue modification. He sent me an email note the other day to say that his "Super Ruby" can now tow a 105 pound train. 11 heavy weight Daylight coaches and a flat car with extra steel plates. Having seen this engine run, and knowing Dave, I bet there is more to come.

Bob


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Yea, and I have the hernia to proove it after trying to lift it Kind of reminds me of the Uber Willi seen at the drawbar pull last January! There are solid side tanks of some sort of depleted metal PLUS more between the frames. Saw it run at Al Bowyer steamup Memorial Day weekend. No exageration on how much it can pull. Who needs a GS-4 anyway!


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce
You do if one wants to pull the same train at 100+ smph with style!!


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Thread hijack--Charles, are you and Ryan going to bring something to run to NJLS this weekend? I hear that the mainline has just been rebuilt, with additional clearances for 1:20.3.

I will be steaming the recently repainted #12. 


Larry


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry
Yes, looking forward to the weekend. Sorry to say we will probably not bring our coal fired Ruby (nearing topic again) but then again it would not match the Superuby results.


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, 
What type/size torch are you using? Thanks 
Noel


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## Dave Hottmann (Jan 2, 2008)

Noel, 

For the Ruby boiler I used a #4 tip on my O2Acet torch. I wrapped the end I wasn't working on with aluminum foil and stuck it in cat littler.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Just a ? Dave: On the goodall valve do you extend the tube 2/3rds into the boiler in order to prewarm the water? 
Manfred Diel


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Another question or 4, Dave







. What did you use to make the box corner cut into the boiler? The precision of the cut looks like you may have used a slitting saw on your vertical mill. 

What burner did you substitute? What diameter is the copper tubing?
Did you make the water level cock or is it a valve from some other use, if so what? 

Thanks


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## Dave Hottmann (Jan 2, 2008)

Manfred, 
Never thought about that. I suspect that when I add water, the level has already dropped to the top of the flue. 

Howard, 
The box corner cut was done by hand with a dremel. The burner is an angle slotted Ruby with a 40 mesh NiChrome tent. The dry pipe is 1/8"OD copper from the local Ace Hardware. The cock valve is a universal Accucraft drain/blow down, and the nipple is one I machined out of 5/16" hex brass. To determine where to install it I filled the boiler full, sucked out 30ml, and measured the water level.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Thinking of adding a waterfeed to one of my Ruby's what would be the best place to drill the hole in the backhead? a) In the steam space high on the boiler? b)just above the flue? Also i consider to extend the waterfeed 2/3rds into the boiler so the water will be heated while entering the boiler(beside adding a waterlevel device) 

Manfred


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 06/04/2009 1:01 PM
Yea, and I have the hernia to proove it after trying to lift it Kind of reminds me of the Uber Willi seen at the drawbar pull last January! There are solid side tanks of some sort of depleted metal PLUS more between the frames. Saw it run at Al Bowyer steamup Memorial Day weekend. No exageration on how much it can pull. Who needs a GS-4 anyway! 

I thought I'd heard t Dave's Super Ruby was banned from the Diamondhead drawbar contest?


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, if they let Bob put his stinky diesel in they'll let ANY live steamer in! hehe


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dave Hottmann on 06/21/2009 9:18 PM

Howard, 
The box corner cut was done by hand with a dremel. The burner is an angle slotted Ruby with a 40 mesh NiChrome tent. The dry pipe is 1/8"OD copper from the local Ace Hardware. The cock valve is a universal Accucraft drain/blow down, and the nipple is one I machined out of 5/16" hex brass. To determine where to install it I filled the boiler full, sucked out 30ml, and measured the water level.


Dave, thanks for the response. nice work, btw. 

In your picture of the new 7/8" diameter flue, I noticed that you placed the burner in the upper portion of the flue as opposed to the lower portion...what was your thinking?


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## Dave Hottmann (Jan 2, 2008)

Howard, 

My Ruby came with the burner at the top with the flame pointing down. I have found this way works a lot better than having the flame pointing up from the bottom. On Legends and Marklin BR18s, rotating the burner so it points down makes a BIG difference.


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