# Newbie and totally confused!



## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

Hello,​
I am 54 and have always loved trains. When I was 5, I got my first HO layout ... simple rheostat controls ... brass track (that oxidized an would stop a train without cleaning). FYI ... I still have my original trains (less track). 

Through the years, I had a couple of layouts ... each got more complex but still simple controls ( last set had momentum ) and I did get some nickel silver oxide track to save the cleaning. 

My wife are in the middle of building a house. She is paralyzed and we have been living in an old RV for the past three years ... not easy here in VT when winter temps hit -30 ... but we saved $1000 per month in rent while we built an accessible house. We just moved into the unfinished part and I am finishing it up this winter. 

We have said that it would be neat to have a g scale train running either around the basement, out in the garden or both. 

While searching e-bay for something totally different, I came across a couple of Lionel g scale hand cars (saw a couple of Wile E / Road Runner for sale .... I am just a big kid and love Looney Tunes). I almost put a bid in for one but then decided to look at what it would take for track and a controller. 

Now I am confused! 

Solid brass track for outside ... would this not oxidize like my old track inside or just corrode outside ( and is was labeled for inside or outside use). 

Hollow steel track .... I don't know how it would work inside but I would think it would rust outside. 

Rheostat control ( don't know how well this works on 100 ft of track) ... battery operated trains with RC control (looked like a toy having plastic track) .... live steam trains with RC control .... DCS control (don't know if you can fit this into something small like a hand pump car) ..... 

Sooooooooooo .... I am guessing these Lionel trains use a simple rheostat control. Will these run inside and outside (obviously in nice weather only)? What type of track do I need for inside? What type of track for outside? Are all tracks compatible with each other? 

I will want to get other trains in the future .... I will what them to stay compatible. I see they can range from $100 to thousands of dollars! 

What do I need to know to get started? I just want to make sure anything I buy today, I will be able to use in the future. 

Thanks so much .... Mike


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

Hi Mike,

Yes, you absolutely can get rheostat-style power in 100+ feet of track! G-scale runs on 18v-24v and motors typically draw 3-10amps, way more than your old HO sets.

Here's the thing, G-scale inside is just like HO inside, with the same track care & feeding requirements. Outside in New England, assuming a permanent layout, you have to deal with frost, leaves, animals, acid rain, and the like.

For track power, that means committing to a cleaning run, usually every time your want to run trains. Depending on how often you run your trains, this may mean a quick pass with a scotch-brite, or it may mean some dedicated scrubbing. If you're coming from smaller scales, track power is the easiest to wrap your head around, and most electric locomotives are going to come set up for track power.

If keeping electrical connectivity up sounds like a PIA, and you're handy with simple wiring, battery power with RC is the way to go. L-Ion batteries have really changed the hobby and RC transmitters & receivers cost way less than when you were a kid. A lot of newer locomotives include electronics to run off of either track power or battery power. The other plus of battery power is that you can get aluminium track, which is the cheapest, but doesn't support track power very well.

Regardless of your power solution, for outdoors you want solid rail. Code 332 is common and very robust, but is meant to represent narrow gauge. If you want to model American mainline, you may want to get Code 250, which is a little smaller and therefore delicate, but is closer to prototype.

You can definitely run the same track indoors and outdoors, provided you spec everything for outside  I'm sure this topic will bring you lots of advice.


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## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

*Thanks!*

Thanks for the info!

You changed my thinking. I was under the impression that "battery on board" trains were just toys ... plastic ones that take a bunch of D cells and run under the Christmas tree.

I am a machinist by trade ... and also build custom electrical control panels.

If I was going to go with a powered track and If it is going to take a "bunch" of scrubbing (I would probably run the train only on weekends outside around the house) then I would try to build some kind of "scrubber" car. I can see where you would want a true powered scrubber (powered scotch brite pads on a heavy car).

Hmmmm ... lots to think about.

It might even be smart to think of this as two separate projects. Powered track inside (since I would not need near as much track ... use brass) and batteries outside ...use the cheaper aluminum track for the large run.

Looks like I need to do a bunch more thinking.

Thanks so much !

Mike


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Stay the **** away from that hollow metal track, it rusts faster than you can look at it.
If you are planning a small layout say 20' x 20' track power should be fine, anything bigger you should consider battery RC as track wiring and maintenance can become a headache


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

*Track Considerations*

Hello Mike,

The expense of track is probably the main impediment for folks starting out in "G" or #1 scale trains, but once you get past this getting the locos and rolling stock is easier to contend with as time goes on. 

For *track types*, if you use _*track power as I do*_, stainless steel (albeit high cost) is the best for outdoors since it does not build up an electrically resistive or insulating type oxidization like brass. So cleaning is minimal with a non abrasive pad like the _*Swiffer*_ with wet cloth to remove organic deposits. 

_*My layout originated from under my house*_ that has brass track and when I expanded to outdoors, I chose to use the stainless steel track.

I hope this helps, and all the best;
-Ted


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

If your outside track is not excessive and you can afford it, use the more expensive stainless steel track that will not oxidize. 
If you use solid brass track which will need cleaning you can save by using code 250 track from Accucraft.
It is cheaper than some others because of a slightly lower copper content in the brass which is no problem just a little more brittle. It comes with mainline ties or narrow gauge ties. The Accucraft narrow gauge ties are more frequent and longer than European style narrow gauge ties that you will find on typical code 332 track which most are similar to LGB track. You can mix different code rail track if you really need to but it will be noticeable.
They don't make short code 250 turnouts like they do in code 332. Which go down to R1 or 600mm radius.
Peco make nickel silver track in code 250. It has a more narrow gauge spaced ties than most. Peco only have one style of turnout (points) though and The electrical pick-up sliders on LGB locos need a slight modification so they don't short out on the frogs.
You can buy nickel silver code 250 rail and ties separate from various manufacturers. 
Hollow steel track is best sold to to use as a cheap indoor play track. It will rust outside and will eventually tarnish inside.
Aluminium is the cheapest track and has excellent conductivity but will oxidize more so than brass. Not a good option for track power.

If you only intend to have few locos you could invest the extra expense to convert them to battery and not have any track conductivity issues then you can save buy using aluminium rail.
You could buy or make a dedicated battery powered track cleaner loco/car to run around first outside on brass track before running the other locos.

Many options but not necessarily a easy decision to make as it all 'just depends'.

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

While code 250 may be less expensive, it is not as robust as code 332 and can bend very easy. If someone kicks the track or steps on it, code 332 works much better, plus deep flanges love code 332, however code 250 is more to scale.
I am in south Eastern Massachusetts with all brass track and I do not have to clean track for every run. I always have my engines electrically tied to the first car behind them or 2 powered units electrically tied together.

When I do clean the track I use the LGB track cleaner loco with a trailing car for additional power pickup.

For leaves I built a track powered leaf blower.

For snow I use the Aristo gondola snow plow with a brick for weight and push it with a pair of SD45's.

Note my layout is DC and DCC at the flip of a switch.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

In the interest of brevity, and my experience since 1985, and based upon an assumption you " know nothing "

To avoid headaches with loco quality, and overall quality and simplicity, together with availibilty,

I would avoid Lionel in g scale. Why???? They are not know to be great running and parts are impossible. They may tickle your fancy, but, I suggest there is a high likelihood they will be shelf sitters, or worse, frustrate you by running terribly.

Get an LGB starter set, in good or new condition. Like em or not, the European steam sets with the small stainz 0-4-0 are, imho, superb. either freight or with tow coaches. great quality. You can add to them. they will last. they run on poorly laid and uneven track. They work fine on the small radius track. they are easy to handle, and not very expensive, relatively speaking. They are .....long term purchases.

Add a few pieces of straight 300 mm (lgb 1000 or 600mm 1050) or a multiple thereof, 
A pair of switches, (and an extra 1100 curve for each if you want a passing siding) ,
And, importantly, a red LGB cleaning block for the track ( doesnt scratch, which results in increasing dirt issues over time)

set, estimate-175 -300; LGB Item # 1200 and 1205 switch (lh and rh), about 40 bucks each, extra track, maybe 75 bucks, track block, about 20.

Look for a set with the two piece power pack ( 1 amp) , but the half amp older grey will work, but only for one small or med sized engine. Don't get anything else power pack-wise until you know what you need. HO and other power packs often wont be an upgrade, or enough of an upgrade.

LGB is robust and built like a Mercedes, weatherproof. Superb quality control. they can take a tumble, and be handled often without breaking or losing detail parts. 

The familiar little green and red stainz pulls well and is immensely reliable, provided you dont get one in poor condition (ie over-used). Typically if you examine the wear to wheels and pick up skates you can get an idea.

I suggest this avenue because in the long run a simple starter set in good condition will be the most economical and will provide great operation, possibly for decades, as have mine. My first starter set was purchased in 1985. I still use it regularly and it runs great, with zero maintenance other than the occasional lube and clean up with ......mild soap and water and a toothbrush (after a rain storm and soil spattering). I have, since 1985, every year, added to the PILE. Its obscenely big now, some thirty plus years later.

Forget hollow track. While most would say avoid the small four ft diameter radius curves (lgb 1100) it works great with small 2 axel locos, and is generally inexpensive. If you will perhap go with a larger 3 drive axel loco, lgb 1500. (5 ft radius) may be your next best option. I like the LGB code 332 track / rail. It is 'standard' for g scale, immensely strong, weatherproof and long lasting, but, it is not as low as prototypical track. Once it darkens on the sides, it blends much better. You can stand on it. don't under estimate this, as , sometimes in the garden, this will happen, inadvertently. Also, there are items, such as bridges and the like, that are spaced to fit LGB track, like the tie spacing.

I hate broken toys or toys that dont work well or are shoddy. 
I grew up with herky jerky HO and N scale and hated the disappointment and headache of it.

While LGB can be toy-like, i am recommending it because the quality is the best. It is also , sometimes, more expensive than other brands. I tell you this for your ease in knowing what is " safe" among so many offerings. I own over seventy lgb locos big and small, and every one runs smoothly and reliably, provided the track is reasonably clean, and some even when the track is very dirty.

This is a hobby that is a joy. Accumulate slowly and thoughtfully. START SMALL.

Go slow and look at prices at trainz.com, trainworld, pizza trains, onlytrains, discountrains, etc., to get a feel. 

Then ebay. You will find some very reasonable prices at retailers, and some nearly full retail-knee buckling.

I never pay full retail, even for new items. 

Do not shop on ebay, if at all, until you know your stuff. Fer isntance, by and large NOTHING listed there is genuinely "rare", and you need to know discount new prices to best evaluate. Many ebay sellers charge more than discount retailers for new items. Many think they have something made of gold, and prices are sometimes inexplicable.

It can be a great place, but you MUST KNOW what you're doing, or you might get fleeced. I only buy things that are unbroken, with original packaging, and in appear to be really good shape (and I know how to fix things and sometimes have or can get parts-parts are expensive so don't buy with the thought "ill get the part" ). Boxes don't necessarily indicate lack of abuse or care, but, a guy who has the box may have indeed taken care of the items a bit better. Or at least, been more meticulous. Boxes also tend , for me, to indicate less dust and shelf wear.

*The above suggestions are focused on economy and simplicity, and assumes limited growth*.
I am also assuming analog not digital. analog, is what you grew up with, a rheostat and a motor, variable voltage via the tracks. I run this. Its less complicated, less expensive, familiar, and, has a far lower price tag. OTOH, digital offers MUCH more running options and eliminates a lot or wiring and track issues, such as blocks with on off to the tracks. WIth digital, you simply park the loco anywhere, run it in either direction, at any speed, and this can be done with other locos on the track also running independently. It is also, more expensive and less weather friendly. its all about your budget. I don't run digital because I understand analog, like things simple, and retrofitting my locos would cost many thousand of dollars, which isn't of value to me right now.

To get you started , go to amazon and buy the book "Explore the World of LGB". It will cost about $25 and give you joy and 'train empire fantasy', has great photos (really!!!) and answer all your questions;wiring, switches, plans, how track fits and what pieces you may need, basic decoders, all of it. You will save money by having more information and a concept of what you can do, what things and item numbers are, what you need for a simple starter layout from one of the plans (if you so choose) , and your budget.

*Do this first!!!!! *Do this before you do anything else, as you will have a much better understanding of choices.

Best

Did I say brevity?????LOL


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Dan Pierce said:


> While code 250 may be less expensive, it is not as robust as code 332 and can bend very easy. If someone kicks the track or steps on it, code 332 works much better, plus deep flanges love code 332...


I would disagree with that. I've used code 250 outdoors for the past 20 years. So long as your track is on a solid foundation (and that's proper railroad engineering 101), there is no difference in how code 250 holds up as opposed to code 332, nor is there a difference in how well the "deep flanges" handle the track. I've got "old-school" LGB cars I run on my railroad, and they go around the railroad and through my switches just fine. I started out running code 332 outdoors (because that's all that was available), but went to code 250 for aesthetic reasons. I was expecting there to be concerns (because "everyone said there would be") but so far I've encountered nothing which would cause troubles running on my code 250 which would not have caused trouble running on code 332. 

Again--this is based on the requirement that your track be laid on a solid foundation. If you're just laying it on mulch or loose gravel, all bets are off. I use a roadbed of tamped crusher fines on my railroad. While I do have a PVC support structure underneath, it does not provide much additional stability. It's there more to keep the track in place as the dogs use the right-of-way as their personal racetrack. 

Later,

K


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had code 250 outside for 20 years with no problems. It just looks so much better with the trains, to me they look toy-like on code 332.


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## rexcadral (Jan 20, 2016)

*First step - do some reading!*

Hi again Mike,

One thing that really helped me was reading up on my options.
https://familygardentrains.com/ is a great resource for the noob, and discusses a lot of options and some things you may not yet have considered.

I'd also suggest that the best way to get familiar with the various tech options is to buy at least one issue of Garden Railways - It's small enough that the ads are all directly relevant, and you'll learn the most prominent players in this space.


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## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You guys are awesome!

I have a much better overview now. I just want to make sure if I buy something to run inside now, I can use it later when I build outside.

Stainless makes sense for outside. Just did a quick check ... expensive ... but then you only have to buy it once and as you pointed out the maintenance will be near zero.

I will definitely have to consider 250 vs 332. The nice shiny brass 332 (which is what I assume I usually see) really jumps out at you. 

This all dates back to seeing a bunch of G scale trains running around an amusement park in Niagara Falls Canada back in 1967 (I would have been 5). A park was set up called Canadia. It only lasted about 3 years. It was all famous Canadian places. They had a bunch of F7's and SW12's literally running all over the property. Ever since I have wanted an outdoor railway.

http://www.aphan.ca/canadia.html

My wife loves it when we go to a restaurant and they have a train running around on tracks above.

If I ever feel rich, I would love to get a Shay. I dragged my wife to a museum during our vacation just to see one run up and down a track. She puts up with a lot. We even "camped" in the parking lot of Steam Town .... a no no we were told later by the parks police but they left the gate open and with an RV, we just stop anywhere.

Looks like I have a bunch more reading to do before deciding on which way to go.

I think since I am starting out, I may just stay with analog control for now. If I ever get several trains then I can change them over to DCS later.

Funny you mention prices on E-bay. I just ordered a part for my truck (my daily driver is 30 years old ...not much to look at but solid and runs great). I found it for $275 on ebay and $90 on Amazon! I will definitely look around before buying anything.

Thanks so very much again !!!!!!!!!!

Mike


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Hi Mike, 
Just a heads up there is a difference between DCS and DCC. DCS belongs to MTH and is proprietary control, while DCC is an open code with many suppliers.

There is a point where battery power is cheaper than DCC and that quickly goes the other way with more trains. 
My 2 trains keeps me happy and battery on SS was my choice. I don't have the most expensive set up, but it works for me.
The heavy tarnish on the brass track is similar to rust for some.
Welcome aboard,
John


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## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

*Battery ... bigger trains?*

Batteries and RC make sense but does this not limit you to larger trains?

I am looking at say a hand pump car, the small 0-4-0 engines and such (in other words, the cheap ones to start with).

They are all very small. Is there room for RC controls and batteries on each? or do you put all these items in the cars of the train or ????

Thanks again so much !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Not limited at all. They're making battery R/C receivers for HO scale now. Google "Deadrail." Lots of stuff you can use for smaller locos like 0-4-0s, handcars, etc. They're smaller, so they draw less current, so you can use the 1- and 2-amp decoders without worry. I've got them in my LGB Porter 0-4-0 and my LGB Davenport switcher. 

Here's a photo of my On30 (1:48) Mogul, with a battery, receiver, and DCC decoder stuffed into the tender:










800mAh Li-Po battery on the floor of the tender with a small speaker in front of it. TCS decoder (which is much larger than it needs to be because I had to buy an adapter board for it) and receiver behind it sitting on top of the battery.











For reference, the tender is about 1 3/4" wide and not quite 3" long. After doing this and now a 2nd On30 loco, there's nothing in large scale you can't make R/C. 

Later,

K


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Another place for cheap deals is Craigslist, goodwill, thrift shops, and other sites like OfferUp and letgo. 

I have amassed a bunch of track and some trains over the years from there.

For low maintenance, as others have said stainless is the way to go. It is more expensive, but saves the effort of cleaning oxidation regularly.

For cheap, oxidized brass track can't be beat. A good soak in a gutter with salt and vinegar for a few hours, and the oxidation is gone. To long of a soak and it turns copper color. A railbender helps to change the curves and straights to suit.

It is much cheaper in the long run to buy less quantity but good quality trains.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Zimo makes HO small decoders that are G scale compatible in that they have 30 volts or more for input rating. Check out zimo.at
I have the Gustav hand car with a decoder that fits inside the small barrel and I have red/white running lights plus ditch lights from this small decoder. Low cost of decoder will surprise you.
And at 1.5 amps there is a programmable sound/motor/light/servo decoder that works with single motor LGB trains real nice and for just $100. These can be programmed for the older Serial 14 step systems as well as the latest parallel 128 speed step systems.


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## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

*compatability ?*

I am so glad I found this forum ... you guys don't know how much you have helped.

I didn't realize how fare electronics for trains had come ... just didn't think there was a big call for it. 

So, one last thought .... what do you guys do about compatibility of trains.

With HO, I had the problem of two scales (1:72 and 1:87) and three couplers (what I call standard, European and "real" looking).

Looks like you guys have the same problems. I see everything from 1:32 to 1:29 and even 1:24. It also looks like LGB (just from what comes up on the internet search, they must be one of the largest producers of G scale) seem to have what I call European couplers. I see other manufactures have an American looking coupler.

I am not planning to be a fanatic (I have met train guys who's entire set had to be exact period ... no 1960's diesels with a 1900 steam train) but It would be nice if everything coupled together.

Is this even possible of do most people just have say two engines. The LGB pull all the European cars and the Lionel pull all the American cars ... or ??????

Again, I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the advice you guys have given me!

Thanks again ..... Mike


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I see everything from 1:32 to 1:29 and even 1:24. It also looks like LGB (just from what comes up on the internet search, they must be one of the largest producers of G scale) seem to have what I call European couplers. I see other manufactures have an American looking coupler.


_Mike, you just weren't looking hard. What about the narrow gauge stuff, at 1:22.5 and 1:20.3 (3' or meter gauge models.) or 1:13.7 (models on 2' gauge track.)_

On a more serious note, I assume you are planning on standard gauge equipment. Most ready-to-run electrics were produced by Aristocraft or USA Trains in 1:29th, and while both have US-style knuckle couplers, they aren't at the same height, I'm told. You have to convert to a standard coupler, set a height, and stick to it. Or run USAT consists and Aristo consists and never mix them.

LGB does/did make a variety of US outline models, including a Mikado which will go around R1 (4' diameter) curves. The scale is a bit fuzzy - some of the diesels are reported to be 1:26 scale so they fit better with the 1:22.5 meter gauge freight cars(?) Their euro-couplers ["hook-and-loop"] are hardly used except for diehard LGB fans who run the meter-gauge models. 

1:32 is the more accucrate scale, and MTH has been producing electric trains in that scale for a while. The trains look smaller than Aristo or USAT's 1:29 so most folk don't mix them.

For high-end, high-cost trains, there are several specialist manufacturers of import brass+steel models. Accucraft makes a few although they make most in live steam - another whole subject. (And there are a couple of 1:29 locos in live steam, but only a couple.)


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Seeing you have now said you wish to start indoors with small LGB 0-4-0s etc. you will be initiating a narrow gauge style of railroad around 1:22.5 scale. The LGB stainz loco (600mm gauge) is actually more like 1:18 or thereabouts so it looks a similar size with other LGB stuff for 1 meter gauge. You may keep to that, modelling in around 1:22.5 or venture into mainline standard gauge in 1:29 etc. 
Bachmann Big hauler stuff is around 1:22 and 1:24 and will look roughly in scale with LGB stuff. Some 1:29 stuff mixed in may not be exactly right but wont look too out of place. 1:22 is a good 'medium ground' scale which can extend either way to other scales depending on the models. Big Hauler 1:22 boxcars will work well for early era 1:20 box cars for example. Scales 1:20 and 1:29 are worlds apart and will look way out of place together. 
Alternatively you could go the other way with 1:20 if you want to correctly model USA 3ft narrow gauge but some of the models get too big for indoor situations. Code 250 with narrow gauge ties will suit 1:20 scale models well. 
The scales of 1:22.5 or 1:24 narrow gauge is great for indoors. Models not getting too big. 
If space is an issue, modelling with shorter 1:20 scale logging trains look OK on sharp curves and turnouts as they often were on the prototype. A 1:20 K-27 with scale jackson sharp coaches will need LOTS of space and larger radius. 

Knowing what scale and whether you will be doing standard or narrow gauge can help determine what type of track to use. The limited space indoors will limit what radius and size turnouts you can get away with so that may dictate your rail code and if you need short R1 (600mm) turnouts which are not available in code 250. If you go that way I would consider the R2 Trainline turnouts instead of the LGB R1 turnouts because they look so much better and only slightly longer. These will look best with the short narrow gauge LGB cars.
The models in 1:29 standard gauge which offers diesel era tend to be longer and look far better on at least R3 turnouts or larger.
The availability of stainless steel rail and your acceptance of the extra expense can continue to the outside at a later date.
So, there you go. Work out how much indoor space you have for curves turnouts and trains and the modelling scale you like by what models are available and the answers tend to fall into place.
Of course some people aren't that fussed and run different consists in different scales too.

I hope this helps in the decision making.

Andrew


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

Mike; 


George Schreyer's tech' pages was a primary go-to online reference for myself starting out in the winter of 98-99. George's last update to these pages was a few years, but quite a few pages still apply. 

http://www.girr.org/girr/index.html

Now I also surf about 8 g-gauge flavoured forums plus at least 3 other tech' info websites, to see what info fits my needs and $ .


Good luck and hope to see you and your wife developing/enjoying your G'Rwy for many yrs. to come !


doug c


p.s. chk out the discount bins in your regional book stores for Garden Railway books.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Couplers...
Hook and loops on both ends of cars are the best for not uncoupling when you least expect it and is what most users use at open houses.
Each manufacturer has their own version of knuckle couplers and I have found Kadee mates best to all of them.
Body mounting Kadees is the best way to run these, double hook and loops do not seem to care if truck mounted.
And there is link and pin for those logging RR's which work great.


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## jimhoot (Mar 21, 2015)

Mike
Do a search for your local Garden RR Club.
They may be your best help in getting setup and running.


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## xtal_01 (Nov 7, 2016)

*more to learn ...*

I started reading some of the suggested pages .... It seems there is no wrong way to build a railway!

I saw railways with mixed scales, with dcc and track power (set up with a switch), powered track and battery trains ... it seems people mix and match as their budget allows and as they pick up trains they like.

I was at a "local" train show ( not much really local in VT ... our largest city is only 42,000 people so shows are few and far between) a couple years back.

I do see there is one coming up on far from here next month (same one I went a few years ago). It was mostly HO and O gauge. I will go again and keep my eyes open for some good used G.

Till then, I will keep reading up on what is out there.

Thanks again so very much !!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Mike, a bit of gratuitous self-promotion, but here's a book that may be of interest...
*
Garden Railway Basics*

Later,

K


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

From Vermont the best show to attend would be the BIG-E near Springfield, MA. 4 buildings of all model RR scales (open to the public) at the end of January.

There are Several G scale modular layouts operating there.

http://www.railroadhobbyshow.com/


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