# Electric Screwdriver for Split Jaw Railclamps



## tmmhead (Feb 22, 2008)

With the weather getting cooler her in North East Florida it's time to start the maintenance on the railway for the October to May season. While rail clamps are nice for conductivity, they are brutal to hand tighten all across the railway. Has anyone found a good electric screwdriver that has a torque setting that works well with tightening spit jaw rail clamps? I am sure that once I find a suitable screwdriver it will not be hard to find the bit to fit.


Thanks,

Tim


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Why are they coming loose? Hot/cold cycles? We go from -20 deg F to +110 deg F here in Colorado. Mine have been down for 12 years now, and as far as I know, they are all still tight. No problems.


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## pagosarr (Jan 5, 2008)

Gettin' cooler? Guess that's relative! I live in central TX which has temperature swings much greater than North East Florida. And like Del, when I did live in Colorado (southeast), temperature swings were something to behold! Thought North East Florida was where one goes to retire! 

At any rate why would you purchase a power screwdriver when you could purchase a hex ball driver of the correct drive size for your rail clamps for a lot less? I think the correct size for Split Jaw is 7/32 - but, can't claim that as correct as I'm on vacation (TX is too hot) and don't have access to my hobby stuff. I would rather rely on "real time" feedback from a manual hex drive so as not to over tighten the machine screws on the Split Jaws and perhaps bend them. 

On another topic, tighten' up your rail clamps to improve conductivity is an oxymoron. If you don't already have satisfactory conductivity, making the clamps tighter just compresses the corrosion, junk, dirt, etc., already inside the rail clamps. If you didn't put conductive paste in the rail clamps when they were first installed, then you have a bigger project ahead of you. Y'all need to remove all of the clamps, clean them, and use conductive paste to reinstall them. After that you can lay back and enjoy. You won't ever need to tighten them again! 

Rog Bush


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I found some of the SJ's have some burrs on the screws and/or the clamp. I run them in and out a few times before first use and put some lube on the threads... that allows more of the pressure to be in the clamping, not friction in the threads... those clamps stay tight for a long time... they will loosen over time with thermal cycling unless they seize... 

Greg


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## tmmhead (Feb 22, 2008)

I would attribute the loose screws from hot/cold cycles as there is nothing else going on with the track. I have noticed that while not all are loose that there are a few that require tightening every year and before I start working on ballast and cleaning that it's a good idea to walk the line looking for loose screws on the rail-clamps. not a wide spread problem but worth the check over.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I'd bet it's the expansion and contraction that is your undoing.... 

I use an old fashioned bent allen wrench for the final 1/4 turn after hand tightening with a ball tipped screwdriver. My arthritis prevents stripped threads... 

From my experience of 5 years floating in ballast, undoing for an expansion, required using that same allen wrench. The ball head allen driver could round out the socket because they were still tight. My temps range from 20 - 110+ F. I have SS track, assembled dry and only clamps where necessary by circumstance; cut rails and stripped or out of place holes. 

Note: if you remove both screws from an Aristo joiner, it can be pushed past the rail joint and will slide under the 'spikes' easily. Verticle lifts don't require clamps. Use a tool, joiners can be sharp. 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Just want to reinforce what John said about the ball end driver... mine wear out much more quickly than I want. They also won't torque to the same degree once they have a little wear on them. I find it's the smaller contact area (doh) on the ball end that causes the quicker wear. I now use the allen wrench to "finish up"... 

Greg


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I am using both Hillman and S/P. I have never had them come loose. They take two different size allen with the ball on the end . I got to a Hadware store that sells the indiviual allens. I buy about 4 of each size. I cut the Angle end off. I use a cordless drill set at lowest seting and screw the clamp together. I then finish up with a standard allen. I always have trouble with the split end of the Split Jaw. Once I get one started the other piece is always in the worng posistion.

I bought a new really small Ridgid Cordless drill. It is about the size of a 38 cal pistal. It is really great from small jobs on the layout or the work bench. I have wacked off handels of my most used screw drivers and can put them in the chuck of this corless drill


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

I found these for my R/C planes and they are also great for my Trains. Check with Ron, he will probably sell just the size you need. I have all sets both metric and US. 

Just click on the first sentence for the link.


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