# Best Electrically Conductive Lubricant?



## noela (May 22, 2008)

What is the best Electrically Conductive lubricant for lubing the brass bushings/wheel axles on the side frames of locos that are used for electrical pickup?
Any thoughts on lubricating the other parts of power trucks?
Thank you. 
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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

I'm not sure how it works on Plastics...... 

But my GUESS is Di-electric Auto distributor points Grease ???????


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There is basically no "conductive" lubricant that you want to use. 

If you had a real conductive lubricant, you would find that you would be causing shorts in your wheels. 

Most "conductive" lubricants you see advertised are actually not conductive, they maintain conductivity by keeping air out, from oxidizing the conductive surfaces. 

For your loco axles, I recommend a heavy gear oil, not a grease, grease is good on gears, but with the close fit of a bearing, you want a liquid that wicks into the gap. My favorite lube in this area is Hob-e-lube.. they are one of the few plastic compatible companies that make a heavy bodied oil. 

Greg


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

I have obtained a "conductive grease", which was loaded with carbon black (as the conductor). But also have had customers using some kind of conductive grease which was causing shorts all over the locomotive, not good. 

Barry - BBT


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Most "conductive" lubricants you see advertised are actually not conductive, they maintain conductivity by keeping air out, from oxidizing the conductive surfaces. 

Greg - The concept of "conductive grease" never made sense to me. Recently, I applied some NoAlOx to an insulating rail clamp and noted that it was pretty hard to avoid getting a "grease bridge" between the sides I needed to insulate from each other. I figured it had to be some miracle element that automatically knows my electrical needs and turns itself into part conductive and part non-conductive. I was awestruck by the magnitude of my reasoning, but still not satisfied. 

Your one-sentence explanation has put this conundrum to rest and at last I'll be able to sleep at night! 

JackM


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## noela (May 22, 2008)

Hi Greg,
Thank you.
For the Hob-e-lube product you mentioned, would that be Gear Lube (HL655), or Moly Grease (HL656)?

Noel 
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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

HL655 is the one...

The grease is very good on gears, although I prefer the NG gel grease from another company.

see my page on lubrication: *http://www.elmassian.com...trong>** 


There are also some insanely funny stories as some companies tried an explanation of "conductivity on demand".... 

LGB claimed a few times that their "conductive grease", which carries graphite, is conductive. When confronted by measurements that showed infinite resistance, they countered (they have since given this up) that under pressure, like in a rail joiner, the pressure smashed the little balls of graphite into conducting between the joiner and the rail... 

That was pretty funny. Of course untrue, but hard to disprove, unless you really think about it.

Also, I have found one lubricant that is actually somewhat conductive, but it washes away with water, and has proven to "eat" plastic, a video is on my site. 

So, just stay with plastic compatible lubes, and I give some of my personal recommendations on my site, see what works for you.

Regards, Greg*


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Because I use aluminum rail, but cannot find aluminum clamps, I use brass ones. The brass and aluminum create oxidation that makes the clamp fail to conduct electricity. I use to use no-ox in the joint. While this DOES eliminate oxidation, it's water soluble, so it washes out of the clamp after a season, and the joint fails. 

I've taken to wrapping the aluminum rail with a piece of aluminum foil. A spot of no-ox holds it in place, 'til the clamp joins everything tight. The electrons stay in the aluminum, never getting to the brass. No oxidation, no joint failure. 

If this would only work on my knees!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Dick, specifically is the product name Noalox by Ideal corp? (NOALuminumOXidation) 

Just checking if it's the same stuff I'm testing out on my SS clamps.. 

Greg


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Greg, I've used a couple of brands. I think the first was call NO-OX, but the one I've got now (I just looked) is caalle GB Ox-Gard (OX-100).


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## Pterosaur (May 6, 2008)

I have been using Bachmann's EZ-Lube conductive lubricant. I like it for its easy to use "needle" applicator for precise application in tight areas. Regardless of "conductivity" it cured a horrid squeak on an LGB Mikado once I applied it to the pick-up brushes and had no noticeable negative impact on electrical pick-up performance. I have used it on all brands of loco's without issue.


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