# Single R1 (4') curve and 8' minimum curve requirement



## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

The extension to my current loop will have a minimum of 8' diameter curves. I also have laying around an abundance of 4' diameter curve sections and a few R1 turnouts (ie also approximately 4' diameter equivalent). My question is, if I put at least a 3' straight both before and after a single section (30 degrees) of 4' diameter curve (and/or an R1 turnout), what would that do to a loco or rolling stock recommended for a minimum of 8' curves. It seems to me that 30 degrees of R1 would not have the same impact as 90 or 180 degrees of R1. If nothing else, maybe I could use some for a switching yard or sidings (staying away from S curves or course).


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Find a friend with a railbender and make them wider radius. I used mine to bend 5 and 8 ft diameter track into 10 ft diameter. Used alot more rail clamps but I already had the track, cheaper to buy railclamps than new track. 
Steve


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

What you are suggesting would work, but I think that the visual impact would be jarring. The train would turn go straight, turn and go straight all the way around the curve. Either rebend the track are buy larger radius curves.

Chuck 


This might work if you are planing to run short wheel base 2 axle cars and LGB Stanz type engines. It all will depend upon what rolling stock and engines you want to run.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Does not make it a wider curve, in fact it makes it worse going from straight to way too tight... 

Buy the railbender. 

Greg


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

R1 ones definately prohibt quite an amount of rolling stock. Forget SD45, SD70 and streamline passenger cars. If oyu are OK with that, then by all means go R1. But even then, perfect level or even your small rolling stock will derail.


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## Pterosaur (May 6, 2008)

That's a lot of sections if you want to re-bend the R1's. You will likely need to cut the plastic webbing beneath the ties to allow it to bend ("flex rail" comes this way). You could always sell what you have to cut down on the cost of new. Also I think RLD offers a rental on rail benders if cost is a problem. 3 weeks for $90.00 I think. Ways to save if you need to.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By chuck n on 07 Oct 2011 07:35 PM 
What you are suggesting would work, but I think that the visual impact would be jarring. The train would turn go straight, turn and go straight all the way around the curve. Either rebend the track are buy larger radius curves.

Chuck 





VERY true, it would be jerky at speeds, Actually, what CAN be done, sneak a R1 in the middle of some R2/3s to make it a bit less jarring if you have the need to do it....


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

if you got enough space to put straights, then bend the curves to your need. 

you dont need a railbender. take two R1 curves. cut the sleeper webs from one on the inside between every sleeper, the other one on the outside. 

take from both curves the longer, outer rail. one of these you bend by hand to the desired curve, you need for the new outer rail. 
slip it into the outer side of the sleeperweb, that has been cut on the inside. 
then bend the other former outside rail till it matches the plastic-spikes on the inner side. 
slip in this new inner rail, test-fit the rail to its future connections and saw away the excess length from the new inner rail. 

either do the same with the two shorter, former inside rails, or just bend them straight. then you get a 1ft. straight. 

hand bending is not 100% exact. for finetuning the curves or straights i use a small hammer. but dont hammer at the railhead! the trains will show any roughness by dancing over these spots. 
just hammer at the railfoot. better three light taps, than one strong swing. 

if you look here: http://kormsen.info/tracks/ 

nearly all of these curves and straights began their util life as R1 curves. 

edit: somewhere i saw a description, how somebody transformed R1 turnouts into 20 degree turnouts. he cut the frog, and then drew the frog together and the diverging track behind the frog too.
but i myself never tryed that.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think it's getting a little off track







here.

He did not really ask if you could connect the track, but "It seems to me that 30 degrees of R1 would not have the same impact as 90 or 180 degrees of R1." Saying "it will work" really is misleading. 


The bottom line is that while that it COULD be technically true, that 30 degrees of R1 is less than 180 degrees of R1,
having one car on a straight track, and another on an R1 will be a lot more "jerk" than an 8' diameter curve. The reason is that the length of the cars come into play, as well as the trucks themselves.
Just plain not a good idea. It also looks bad, visually.

Greg

The extension to my current loop will have a minimum of 8' diameter curves. I also have laying around an abundance of 4' diameter curve sections and a few R1 turnouts (ie also approximately 4' diameter equivalent). My question is, if I put at least a 3' straight both before and after a single section (30 degrees) of 4' diameter curve (and/or an R1 turnout), what would that do to a loco or rolling stock recommended for a minimum of 8' curves. It seems to me that 30 degrees of R1 would not have the same impact as 90 or 180 degrees of R1. If nothing else, maybe I could use some for a switching yard or sidings (staying away from S curves or course).


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a small layout it has two loops . Each loop has about eighty feet of track all of our curves are r1 and one of the curves has a r1 switch in it i do not have any trobule with derailments. but i run 1/29 cars and two of our engines are lbg and one is a buchmaan climax. The bigger engines will not work on r1 curves and 1/20 cars do not like it . Hope that helps .


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