# 3D Printed 1/32 Scale Pullman Heavyweight



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

As promised on another thread, I just thought that I would share with you the fact that my prototype 1/32 scale 3D printed Pullman Heavyweight is complete, although only in primer.
I decided that it was not good enough to make the effort to fully paint and decal.
Please don’t look too closely as there are lots of things that need improving, but I have satisfied myself that it IS possible to do!
The roof is held on by four magnets, one on each corner which connect with the metal angles, and the battery box for the lights is velcro’d on.
Total weight as seen is 5 pounds.
The paint on the roof was taking too long to dry so I was handling it while still not fully cured.
It still isn’t!!!!
Other than the trucks, couplers, the aluminum floor, the window plastic and the interior, it was ALL 3D printed on the Makerbot Replicator2.
If you look closely at the last photo, you will see the slots that the window material fits into, so that it can't fall out, and doesn't need gluing in!
For those who might be interested, this is a plan 2410 car, which is a 12 section and 1 drawing room layout and was one of the most numerous built car by Pullman, there being a total of 1600.
The car was classified by Pullman as being a 73' 6" car, but then they did not include the vestibules, so the total length is 82' 6".
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

David that is a fine effort for a small 3D printer. I know a couple of guys here in the Adelaide are who have 3D printed in 1:32 (one was a 350 class diesel shunter and, the other was Centenary cars printed in panels). They have had similar outcomes in the finish.

This is a fine example of the emerging technologies augmenting our great hobby.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW, looks good to me David! Nice work. Interior is great also.


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

David
Very nice first effort. Look forward to the results of your fine tuning. Inquiring minds want to know about the trucks. Please elucidate.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jim,
The trucks are my standard fully compensated 6 wheel trucks that I have used on the SP Daylight sets for the three car articulated.
Resin cast detail outer, and HD Poly inner moving parts.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Here are a couple of photos of my 6 wheel trucks.
They are actually the ones that I use on the SP Daylight three car articulated sets, but are close enough for this prototype.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

That's a beautiful model. Did you make the roof and sides in segments and bond them together? Or, was your printer big enough to do them all in one go?


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Llyn,
Both the sides and the roof are in six segments.
If you look at the last photo with the inside of the roof, you can see the joins.
I am looking at a printer that would allow me to have just one join per side and roof, but actually if I can perfect the joins, I may just keep it this way.
Nothing worse that getting nearly to the end of an 16" print and having something go wrong (which does happen) and have to throw the whole thing away.
By only doing 4" - 6" at a time, not as much of a waste.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

That is absolutely stunning David!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Very, very nicely done, David... It's so very interesting to see what's being done with the 3D printers today...


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## machiningfool (Nov 15, 2008)

*Bravo on your heavyweights.*

Nicely done David. I might delve into the 3D printing also, after I finish my other 100 projects, very nice.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

that is VERY interesting.


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I only just saw your message about this thread. That's pretty impressive work for an FDM printer. I myself am still waiting for the day when SLS machines can be had for $5,000 instead of $50,000.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

It looks great to me David. Can't wait to see more items being 3D printed. It's time for someone to 3D print a 250 ton rail crane.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

David
Thanks for the chat and overview of the coach at Stavers. Impressive work for the initial coach. The coach ran well on the rails at the meet.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> It's time for someone to 3D print a 250 ton rail crane.


Randy,
Alan at G.A.L. already laser-cut the 120 ton crane in 1/29th. He seems to be reworking his models in 1/32nd, so ne might make one for you.
http://www.thegalline.com/Page21.html


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Pete

I have designs available for the 120 ton crane and 250 ton crane in 1/29th scale.

A 1/32nd scale version of the 250 ton crane is already in the queue.

Alan www.thegalline.com


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Wow, lots of time in the modeling there, both on the computer and on the bench. Great job David!


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## astrayelmgod (Jan 2, 2008)

"Please don’t look too closely as there are lots of things that need improving"
Well, it passes the 1,272 mile rule; so it's all good.

If you were to make an exact copy, how long would the printer take to churn out all the parts?


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

astrayelmgod said:


> If you were to make an exact copy, how long would the printer take to churn out all the parts?


Machine time on my printer is between 35 and 40 hours for all the parts.
Yes ..... 3D printers are NOT fast machines, but then other than pressing the button to start, and to remove each part, it doesn't take much of my time to make the parts.
Then of course there is some clean up and gluing the sections together.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Zack72 (May 2, 2016)

very precise work.


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## BrianTFowler (Sep 20, 2012)

I have been toiling with 3D production too. I can understand being critical of the final product. After all the time that goes into the CAD work, the amazing savings of time in production, and the precision the machines have it would be great if the finish texture was better. A model of a coach should have glass smooth sides at that scale. There are some techniques that could smooth that out, but hard to do and still get the rivets to show. Ive been working on the same thing!! I want to do a PRR B-1 on a lil' critter frame, in a single print. 
Can your friend post the electric model he did?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can get very smooth surfaces with the commercial machines, it just costs WAY more, beyond what most people are willing to pay.

We have to wait for the technology to get a bit cheaper, and it is.

Greg


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

David: I was away to the USA for the last month and a half, this is fantastic you have mastered the whole thing. I find especially great the problem of fitting the windows into the sides (a feature I also used on my wood and styreen construction coaches) which solves the problem of making them stay in place but in this case also puts the window plane in the correct depth in relation to the sides. I am sure that with the progress in the machines and in the evolution, the minor surface problem will get worked out. This is a real breakthrough as I don't think many such size equipment has been 3D printed before. Félicitation!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Given that I know nothing about how 3D printers actually work, how long it would be until a manufacturer (such as USAT) can get a design of a new item and print out a bunch of copies for sale as a reasonably priced kit?

At what point would it be possible for DaveLeechCo Ltd. to print out a bunch of copies of this Pullman heavyweight and become competition for USAT, etc. Or should I ask at what point will it be inevitable...?

JackM

"Reasonably priced" is a given.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jack,
I am not quite ready to be able to supply kits of all the different types of Pullman and PRR cars just yet.
I need more 'testing' time.
The PLA material I am using seems to be okay with regards the sun's heat in thicker (⅛") sections, but where I am down to around 1/32" behind the windows, the inside of the car seemed to get hot enough to cause sagging and warpage!
NOT ACCEPTABLE!
A new "High Temperature Carbon Fibre" PLA is now available so I will be trying that soon.
REASONABLY PRICED?
Is $250 to $300 US too much for a complete kit of parts?
Two sides (glued and primed), two vestibules (primed), roof (glued and primed), roof vents, aluminum floor, steps, basic underframe detail, diaphragms, trucks, couplers, interior floor, walls and cast seats.
The great thing about the 3D printing, is that as I have the basic building blocks in the computer, I can just assemble the window positions as needed for all the different cars at no real expense, unlike the big manufacturers that have to spend big bucks for each injection mold for every different side.
Time will tell how things go.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

This is a very fascinating avenue and it is good that you and innovative modelers are willing to spend the time to try and develop these new processes. So far all that was available (but it is developping fast ) was for the smaller gauges N scale and HO or narrow gauge. It also surprised me not that many people at the forefront of experimentation in these scales were from "niche market" nations like the Dutch, New Zealand, South Africa , Australia etc. Who know they will never get an injection molded model of a particular prototype they want. We kind of have the same problem, but ours are much bigger and do have to stand up in the sun. Nothing like a running session on a nice summer day isn'it? And our stock has to be able to take it.


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## machiningfool (Nov 15, 2008)

Du-busquetaire, thanks for commenting and I share your concern. The previous medium that I was using, epoxy, mixed with cotton fiber, there was no question about it being able to stand up to the elements, but I don't know about this type of plastic. All I can do is make one and see how it stands up. The plastic that I am using seems very tough and the supplier says that it should stand up to 150 degrees without deforming, we shall see. If I do have a problem, I can always go back to making them out of epoxy. Bob.


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## machiningfool (Nov 15, 2008)

*Sorry, wrong post.*

I am sorry, I answered the wrong post, Bob.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Bob: Its good you got into this forum because I was meaning to let you know that David makes some fine Six wheel trucks that could save you the hastle of making your own patterns molds etc. I scratchbuild a lot and like to use available products that permit the scratchbuilder to save precious time so hope this info helps. I have used one pair in intensive service since four years and it is like new.


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## machiningfool (Nov 15, 2008)

I agree, his trucks are beautiful, but I love a challenge and that is part of my hobbying experience. I am still learning how to program my cnc mill using Mastercam and because of the challenge of making these trucks, I have learned more advanced programing. The trucks that I have made in the past were done by hand with mixed results. I have, with this train hobby actually four hobbies, patterns, molds, putting them together, and running them, not so much running them, but I am working on that portion. Thank you for everyones encouragement. Bob.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

It was just a suggestion Bob, I love building too and the chalenge that goes with it, so I certainly can relate to that. Besides I have a lot of admiration for what you have produced thus far. Especially since I, personnally, sail way away from resin, for both health resons (I was a set designer and saw what it could do to people working on large surfaces...) and because I am afraid of what it can become over time,or concearned over its stability to express myself more clearly. So I must admit that succeding the way you have with that medium calls for respect.
I do wonder what resin can do on trucks without any other rigid reinforcements. Davids' use resin castings screwed into laser cut (I think) vinyl side frames. That I can vouch stands up to quite a lot of use.


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## machiningfool (Nov 15, 2008)

I think you might be talking about polyester resin, which I know that it has some pretty intense hazards, but when I talk resin, I am talking about epoxy resin which I believe is more inert with less exo- therm vapors, the stuff that I use is almost vaporless. Bob.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Yes I guess my experience with resins is a bit old now and that they have improved the formulas. I just remembered a team of young builders who had rented a house near Brussels in the middle of winter to make a huge dune for a scene design of ours for the Brussels opera (Théâtre royale de la Monnaie). They had their eyes red from the fiber glass and had to keep all the windows and doors open to get enough fresh air and as it was in the middle of winter, they all had cought colds. We never used resin after that experience in our sets. it was horrible.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I can't believe that 3 ½ years have passed since I started this thread.
Anyway, I thought that I would update it a little, by showing that I am now successfully able to print a complete side and roof in one go with my much modified printer.
In actual fact, I print the two sides and the roof all together at the same time.
A long print - some 50 hours of it!
Mind you, that's machine time, NOT mine.
Still a lot of testing and tweaking to go, but I have proved that it can be done.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Ditto what Pete said....WOW!!! 

How about a few more pictures? 

Surprised your able to build so high, always heard eventually your work would like the "Leaning Tower of Pisa"... 

Nicely perfected Dave, and your one off machine looks good too! 

Michael


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi Michael,
Okay, some more photos.
The first two are of a Pennsylvania P54 coach being printed.
You can see that I print the two sides and the roof in a triangular shape for stability.
Also the windows are supported while being printed, otherwise the 'top' side would sag.
These support pieces just pop out when pressed.
The other two photos are of the Pullman side and roof after a couple of coats of primer to hide the layer striations.
On the back of the side, you can see the slots for the window material to slide in. I originally had a straight slot which worked fine, but when working with the side, the part above the window would bend and sag, making it hard to sand.
So the new and improved slot goes in at an angle and curves.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Again; WOW! All looks great.... The primered exterior shots look quite acceptable with regard to layer steps and or striations. I've heard noise about some process that works to dissolve and or smooth out the finish, perhaps they've figured it out? Do you know what your machine is claimed to layer/step at? Said numbers are getting better of late and your work exemplifies to me that taller/longer models are more than doable now...

I have a 3D Systems resin printer and to be honest haven't done much with it, do to size limitations (length) and the need to focus my time on work and property I recently purchased.

Michael


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Dave,

Printing the walls and roof structure in a triangle layout is a clever method. I suspect you've invested a lot time and effort to get this far, thanks for sharing. 

What's your MAXIMUM build height? I'm interested in Aristo H/W roof conversions to metal roof.

Michael


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Maximum height of a print would be about 32 inches right now before the wires and filament feed get in the way of the top cross beam.
With a bit of modifying you could probably make it to 36 inches.
But iff you are modifying a printer as I did, you can buy even longer vertical pieces up to 59 inches.
To answer your earlier question, I am printing with the standard 0.4mm nozzle with a layer height of 0.2mm.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Wow David, that P54 looks like something I might order when you feel up to it. It would make a perfect train behind my E6! No, hurry though, I have to build a new layout now so I have quite some time to wait. I admire the way you perfect this technique as time goes on. We have moved to southern France and I can't wait to get started on a new layout. Best to all.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

David that is inspiring and awesome!!!


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Here are the PRR P54 coach parts, now primed - roof, two sides and two vestibule ends fitted together to check if everything looks okay.
So far, so good.
Cheers,
David


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Looks good David


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

The body shell looks great in primer Dave, well done!

Metal undercarriage? 

Michael


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Very good indeed David.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Michael,
Sorry, but I never answered your question.
There is an aluminum floor that the sides and ends are screwed into.
The hope is that as a complete structure there will be less chance of any 'sagging'.
We will find out next summer when I can put samples out in the heat of the day.
And thank you Simon for the kind remark.
Merry Christmas,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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