# Accucraft Legend 4-4-0



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Looks like the Accucraft Legend 4-4-0 is the right scale locomotive (1:24 or perhaps 1:22) to look good pulling the Bachmann 1:22.5 passenger cars I've kitbashed for the railway I'm modeling. Not too much online re this locomotive. Anyone have some tips about the Legend to pass along - photos and specs (fittings, water capacity, running characteristics, etc.)? Thanks.


----------



## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Jim 

AFAIK, model is 1:24 scale, commissioned by Richard Finlayson [as Legend Locomotive Co], built by Accucraft. Seem to run well. Very Credible model. maybe Ryan bednarik will chime in, as he actually knowsa something about these engines. 

JJS


----------



## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

The Legend 4-4-0 and their electric counterparts (Accucraft built) are indeed 1:24 scale. The electric locomotives were Accucraft's very first museum model, well detailed and nicely proportioned. The matching Carter Bros coaches and freight cars are very nice indeed, if not very heavy since they are made completely of brass. One of my favorite models is the limited run of the NPC Sonoma done in 1994-1995, there were 25 of these built. Eventually I would like to convert our Sonoma using a legend chassis. 

There were two runs of the legends, with the second run being a bit better in the running and QC department. They are very simple to work on, about the same as a Ruby in complexity and assembly. Many of them suffer from bad steam fittings at the steam chests, but this seems to be limited to the first editions. There were two paint schemes: SPC Red (#3 I believe) and DRG&W Black and maroon (#36 San Juan) 

Some specifications and features: 
-Butane tank in tender 
-Goodall valve 
-Sight glass 
-Half Stephenson valve gear between the firebox frames. 
-Cylinders are 1/2" bore, D valve actuation 
-Hinged cab roof (also removable) 

I will measure the boiler capacity tomorrow as well as look for more features that I may have missed.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Thanks for the info Ryan! Like the Ruby, is the Legend slow-speed challenged?


----------



## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

With the 1/2" cylinders and gradually pointed throttle, the Legend's are actually quite tame. Granted they can run like the wind if given the chance, as most all gauge one engines can. 

The boilers on the legends are quite small, with a maximum working pressure of 40-50 psi, and a capacity of 120 ml at 80% full


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Found a couple of stock photos online of the two Ryan mentioned. 

D&RG San Juan #36 

SPC red #1


Were there also these models?

SPC green #1 

Nevada County Grass Valley #1


----------



## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim
A couple of videos for you:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/charles/RyanB/MOV00370.MPG

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/charles/RyanB/DavesAmerican.mpg


----------



## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, 

Not to my knowledge. I believe that the Grass valley and Green SPC #1 were simply the 1:24 electric models that were repainted to represent the paint schemes of the new 1:20.3 4-4-0's, before the pilot models of the new engines became available. 

The 1:24 electric 4-4-0's also came in UP black, and NPC lake brown (early numbered versions were black) with tan (wood) cab. I may be missing a few schemes, but I have not found my product catalogs from the early Accucraft years. 

There were 1:24 moguls done in electric, based off of the Glenbrook, but I only have knowledge of a few of these, none were offered through the Legend corporation as live steam models. It was about this time that the C-16's were released in 1:20.3, signifying the end of the 1:24 range of engines/rollingstock


----------



## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim
Richard Finlayson who does occasionally post here on MLS knows more about this engine than most, maybe he will comment.


----------



## turbohvn (Jan 7, 2008)

For anyone interested, I have six, new in the box, Legends in stock. These are from the second, improved, run. I have both the D&RG and SPC versions in stock.

Royce
Quisenberry Station


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Did some of the D&RG San Juan #36 models come with a balloon stack? I've seen photos of both.


----------



## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, 

As far as I know, the San Juan #36 came with the diamond stack from the factory (ala your photo a few posts up). 

This is not to say that other owners have not changed them out (the 1:24 stacks and detail parts were/are still available through Accucraft). Some engines that I know of, such as Bob Trabucco's started life as a red SPC #3, being repainted in black, but retaining the balloon stack. A few engines are made up of a pot-luck bin of parts, so who knows what is accurate and what is not on those. 

I purchased both a Radley-Hunter and a Sunflower stack and have them sitting in a parts box, should I ever want/need to change them out. The only down side to most of the available stacks is that they are for the electric 4-4-0's and are soft soldered and may/will begin to separate with prolonged use. Solution? De solder the parts and reattach with silver solder or equivalent brazing alloy 

With that said, I am not too certain if the Legend stacks are actually any structurally different compared to the electric stacks. They may not produce enough dissipated/radiant heat to really affect the stacks.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

A couple of Legends with passenger cars on YouTube: Click here.


----------



## SailorDon (Jan 6, 2008)

I've got one of the "current version" Accucraft live steam Baldwin 4-4-0's. 










Going on the theory that one can never have too many 4-4-0 live steam model locomotives, I am considering adding another Accucraft 4-4-0 to my live steam collection.
(I wish I had bought 2 of the 4-4-0's instead of just the one.)

The question is, how does the Legend version compare to the current version? Which is the best value?


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

My new/old Legend should arrive this week, just in time for Jimmy's birthday (See profile pic - "What a dork!" my wife, kids, and friends say. I've come to accept what I am







). I'll post photos of the Legend in front of my Bachmann Jackson & Sharp passenger car and next to a Bachmann 4-4-0 for comparison.

Does anyone know in what year Bachmann began making its 1:22.5 J&S coaches?


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Legend arrived today. For comparison purposes it's posing next to to a Bachmann 1:20.3 4-4-0 and 1:22.5 passenger cars:


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Over a decade after being entombed in its metal box at the factory in China, this Legend emerged for a decent first steaming. There were a couple of O rings that needed to be replaced and the Goodall valve needed a new silicone tube because the original had turned to dust, but other than that there were no major issues. Thanks to Jim Sanders and Dave Hottmann for their advice and guidance. Looks like the Legend could use some adjustments for optimal performance, namely turning the burner so it faces down, which would enable a longer run time, and replacing the lubricator with a Ruby lubricator. The current lubricator puts out too much oil. And the exhaust pipe discharges straight out the stack, which can blow water and oil all over especially if the boiler is filled too full. Here's a clip at Jim's place:


----------



## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim
As you stated a little tuning and maintenance it should runs as well as ours does:


----------



## Hugcard (May 8, 2010)

I might be intereasted in one of the D&RG legends what are you wonting for one?

Richard


----------



## Hugcard (May 8, 2010)

The 4-4-0 has been my favorite of the old steam locomotives since I was a little boy almost fifty years.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Richard, contact me with a private message for more information. 

Jim


----------



## Hugcard (May 8, 2010)

Jim, 
I am concidering adding a Legend 4-4-0 to my colection of 4-4-0's but I don't know mach about them. Is Legend the compony that made an Accucraft engine live steam ? I have one of the Accucarft Sanoma's in electric. #14 of 25 or 50 Iam not sure how many where built. 

Richard


----------



## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard
You can contact the live steam sponsor on the MLS forum, who has them in stock.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Installing a Ruby displacement lubricator is an improvement over the original, which put out too much oil - mostly on the outside of the boiler. Next is to insulate the smoke box and work out a way to keep the smoke box door from falling out.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

I've started some simple cosmetic modifications to make this the basic black C&NW 4-4-0 that ran on the narrow gauge line between Woodman and Fennimore, Wisconsin. The decals came off easily with Scotch tape and a little denatured alcohol. I've stripped the paint off the cab to start fresh. However, I plan to install a more "modern" steel cab eventually ala Bronson Tate Architectural Models. I used a permanent black magic marker to cover the white lining on the boiler foot boards and tender and the rim of the wheels. Pieces of coal glued to a styrene lid covers the gas tank.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

One of the issues I've discovered with at least this Legend 4-4-0 is that after a while the smoke box door/front doesn't stay put (I've only got about an hour of run time on it so far). It is friction-fit to the diameter of the smoke box and after the paint wears away, the front just falls out. So, since I was going to replace the number plate anyway, I tapped a hole in the middle of the smoke box door to take 8-32 x 3/4 inch Phillips oval head screw. I then reamed out the head so that I could JB WELD a Trackside Details number plate. I've also put insulation on the back of the smoke box door, held in place by a brass plate. I've used this approach on my Forney and it has held so far. One difference, however, would be that I'll actually be pulling out the smoke box front by the number plate, whereas on the Forney, I don't often touch it because there's a hinge to open the front. If this doesn't hold up, I'll put a hinge on this door too. 



















To get the smoke box front to stay put, I've attached a piece of brass bar that presses against the insides of the smoke box.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

OK, I'm happy the way things turned out: 

First, a new Accucraft Arc style headlight (AP-11409) mounted on the Legend headlight bracket. I found out after cutting it off that the Legend headlight was soldered on to the bracket. A torch probably would have popped it off. I had to make a lot of brass dust to find that out. 










I'm going to just leave the number plate blackened by Brass Black and use vinyl adhesive numbers (if they can be made that small). I figure there's less chance for mess from removing and replacing a hot smoke box front than if it were painted. 










The original:


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I don't know that the vinyl would stand up to the heat. (Del?) I'd be tempted to go with the paint, or use the vinyl to mask the number and blacken the plate. (You may have to unblacken it first, I can't tell from your photo.) With the raw brass plate, apply the mask over where you want the number, then swab on the blackener. Remove the number, and viola! I did this (albeit with dry transfer instead of vinyl) for one of my steamers, and it still looks great some 10 years or more later. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Interesting Kevin. I think I'll try the dry transfer idea. Now how do it un-blacken it?


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Wire brush. Blackening is only skin deep. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Of course (wire brush, sand paper, etc.), thought of steel wool just after I shot that last post. Here's a couple photos, one with Woodland Scenics dry transfers on after blackening, one without. Easy to do, cheap, and durable, but I like how the white of the transfers stands out, I think.


----------



## Hugcard (May 8, 2010)

I like what you have done to your engine. I'd like to try dry transfer for the number plate on my #2 Michigan Cal Shay. I just purchased a Legend and am awaiting its arrival. Richard


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

I couldn't help myself, I had to change the handrail stanchions so that they stick straight out of the boiler jacket. So I took the boiler jacket off and after removing the current stanchion brackets, I was able to secure the stanchions to the boiler jacket using the screws that held them to the brackets. I had to drill two new holes for the stanchions near the front and they're about a millimeter too wide - I eye-balled it and it's visible not so much from the sides but from above - oh well. While the smoke box was removed I opened a bigger hole in the bottom to get better air flow and drainage of condensate. 

Here's a fussy photo of everything off except the smoke box which I put back on for the close-up: 










Close-up of the enlarged hole in the smoke box:


----------



## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, 

Apologies for not getting back to you on disassembling the Legend, but as you have found out, it is fairly straight forward. I hold the legend akin to part C-16 and part ruby in construction. They are very simple engines and your kit-bash will certainly be a stunner! Let us know if you have any other questions, but aside from removing the boiler, you have gotten most of the engine disassembled. 

Prior experience tells that dry transfers do not like the heat from a smoke box number plate. I have found that you normally get 3-4 runs before the numbers match the plate in color, although decals may not be any better. The best solution if space is available is either paint or individual cast numbers (trackside details).


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

I may need longer screws to keep the handrail stanchions on. One of them between the steam and sand domes popped off the threads while installing the cab - not enough threads to grip. I decided to file down the nuts between the steam and sand domes, which were soldered on the inside of the boiler jacket. This gave me more screw to work with. I'm also thinking of adding some Loctite to keep them in place. Any other suggestions for keeping the screws in place? For the number plate, I'm going to try white printed numbers on a black vinyl circle the diameter of the number plate. 

Black styrofoam is not the best background for photos, but you get the idea:


----------



## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good! If the goal for the number plate is white numbers on a black background, how about painting it white, applying vinyl numbers as a mask, then painting it black and removing the vinyl lettering? I imagine the paint should take the heat much better than the vinyl would, especially if you use high-temp paint.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

I decided to go with a G-Scale Graphics printed vinyl transfer for the number plate. So far (1/2 hour under steam), "278" holds fast and firm. 










Also, it looks like opening a bigger hole in the bottom of the smoke box did the trick for drainage of the condensate. There's no more "snap, crackle and pop" of hot, oily water. The number plate stays firmly in place with the JB Weld.


----------



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

The Midwest Live Steamers met at the Wildcat Creek Antique Tractor and Engine Show today in Greentown, Indiana. Jim Sanders brought his portable track, and along with Steve Jarvis, Julian and his son Peter Garner, we had a good day running our locomotives. The video clip is of my Accucraft Legend American 4-4-0. I'm happy with its performance. The next modifications I'm going to do is make a new cab (ala Bronson-Tate) and letter/number it with G scale graphics vinyl transfers for the C. & N.-W. R. no. 278. 



And a brief clip of full-scale live steam action at the show:


----------



## Kristine (Mar 13, 2010)

wow, I just stumbled over your auction on ebay for the engine.. lol I'm watching and hoping to be able to get it at around it's current bid price.. otherwise I'll likely just keep working on my current projects and put a 3 cylinder shay on lay away.. 

nut I'm a little confused.. based upon my experience with my ruby, I've replaced the it's exhaust pipe with a bark box, which makes the whole experience a lot more fun.. more smoke and sound.. a neat side effect of the bark box, is that the excess steam oil collects in the box and burns off producing more smoke, while keeping the boiler cleaner.. also excess smoke ends up leaking out the bottom, near the steam cylinders, then add a load and it’s a whole different engine.. 

on one of the auto forums I belong to I signed my signature said, "girl with tools" lol 
should I say steam girl, here? 

while I'm fascinated with history, green energy(steam) and some of the diorama details.. I can't really call myself a punker.. if anything back when I was going to the arts school I was more of a Goth.. Therefore the idea of being a steam punk girl doesn't really work.. I don’t know perhaps at the next steam up in the bay area, I’ll show up wearing a mini skirt and corset with an apron, just to be silly, but either way I should have something much more interesting than a basic Ruby.. 

next, in my list of projects is learning to silver solder so I can make my own boilers, I want to make a vertical boiler or two for a couple of longer term porjects. 

fire + water = steam = motion 

Steam Girl


----------

