# Best adhesive for name plates



## csinc (Jun 8, 2008)

I am looking for some suggestions of a good adhesive for name plates, and can be bought in the US.

Thank you!

-Adam


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Adam, 
People that I know have used JB Weld, and it seems to work okay. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

To elaborate, you want the high-temp (600+F) J B Weld if for a live steamer. This stuff is great, and is available at most hardware or auto supply stores. 

Larry


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Larry, 
I have only seen one type of JB WELD around here, so I checked their web site. 
They only show the one type of JB WELD, which they say is good for 500ºF. 
Could you give us a part number or something for the high temp one. 
Many thanks, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I wonder if they just consolidated to one JB weld like loctite did with one of their products. One tube for all your needs.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Another option: 00 x 90 model hex NBW. They look really cool.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

David, I no longer have the card with the stock # that held the twin tubes. I believe that JBW also markets a quick-setting epoxy, different from the high-temp gray colored product that takes 15 hours to cure. I will look into this my next trip to the store and report back. 

Larry


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Posted By Larry Green on 30 Jun 2012 08:30 AM 
To elaborate, you want the high-temp (600+F) J B Weld if for a live steamer. This stuff is great, and is available at most hardware or auto supply stores. 

Larry 
I've attached builders plates, hand rail stanchions, and fake clack valves with jb weld. It's either jb weld or silver solder in this hobby! 

Posted By David Leech on 30 Jun 2012 08:57 AM 
Larry, 
I have only seen one type of JB WELD around here, so I checked their web site. 
They only show the one type of JB WELD, which they say is good for 500ºF. 
Could you give us a part number or something for the high temp one. 
Many thanks, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
Discount auto has it and home depot too at least in Florida. I used the 500 f temp one and I only had one tiny little thing come loose after being wiggled hundreds of times and it re glued just as easily.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

David, after visiting the hardware store here in VT where I get the JBW, and also their website, here is what I have found-- 

Two products available in two-tube packs; 8265-S rated for 500 F service temp. (This is the one I started using after hearing about it here at MLS. My recollection still is that it was originally rated at 640 F, but can't prove it.) 

The other one available, 8276, is rated at 230 F on the package, 300 F on the website. This product appears to compete with all the other "5 minute" epoxies out there. 

So, whatever the max service temp. of the 8265-S, it works for me on live steam. 

Larry


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## Chris B (Oct 18, 2009)

Adam - I always use clear silicone sealant - the sort you use for bathrooms and kitchens. It just needs a smear and then to be left flat for an hour or so to go off. Any that sqeezes out is easy to remove and when/if you come to sell the loco, or if you have put them on crooked, the plates just come off with your thumbnail and leave no mark. Silicone is good for about 300 degrees C too. 
Cheers 
Chris


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

Posted By Chris B on 02 Jul 2012 03:34 PM 
Adam - I always use clear silicone sealant - the sort you use for bathrooms and kitchens. It just needs a smear and then to be left flat for an hour or so to go off. Any that sqeezes out is easy to remove and when/if you come to sell the loco, or if you have put them on crooked, the plates just come off with your thumbnail and leave no mark. Silicone is good for about 300 degrees C too. 
Cheers 
Chris 

Absolutely agree Chris. Nameplates do not go in a high heat area on a locomotive, JB Weld is real overkill and as you point out nameplates secured with silicone are reversable whereas JB Weld will probably ruin the paintwork.

David M-K
Ottawa


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## zubi (May 14, 2009)

I use double-sided tape, this works great for me, no danger of messing up the paint. I first stick the tape to the name/number/plate, cut to size along the edges and press to make best possible contact with the name/number/plate. After that, I remove the protecting tape from the name/number/plate which I can now stick to the surface of the locomotive body. Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Now that we are getting so specific--"nameplate"--versus number plates, builders plates, etc,--I have had the loco manufacturer's adhesive fail on a number plate and, on a different engine, a builders plate attached to the smokebox with a thin, clear unknown adhesive. JBW solved the problem. 

Larry


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

I used double sided tape on my Roundhouse Stanley, but it barely gets warm where it is...


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

The JB Weld will work fine, but lately I've been using the hi-temp silicone you can get at any auto parts store. The good thing about silicone is, it will flex slightly with expansion and contraction, as well as being reversable if you want to remove or change out later on, as mentioned previously.


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm for the hi-temp silicone for the plates. A lot of the Brits on the G Scale Central Forum also recommend it. And it's easy to remove if you change wives, girlfriends, or both and their name is on the loco.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

is that an X- change?


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By Phippsburg Eric on 13 Jul 2012 01:32 PM 
is that an X- change? 
It could be a X X X - change.


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