# EBT 'End Gate' Flats #63 and #88



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Here is project I have been doing lately, models of EBT flat cars.

#63 is a 29.6ft and #88 is longer 33.4ft. Both these featured end gate for transporting paperwood.

Pete did a much more detailed version than me a while back: HERE.

So did Kevin, but lost in the archives. Kevin provided me with the info of lengths for these cars and numbers.

I used the Wayne Spence drawings for #63 and drawing posted on LSC by Jon Radder for the #88.






























The frame was a lengthened plastic one










Steps were cut-out and drilled









Painted and weathered































Stan did the decals and they seen to blend in nicely.

The wooden top was a nightmare to do. I used wire wool and vinegar, at first is turned the wood green! So it took lots of goes to get it to look decent. I don't think I left enough time for the rust to form before applying.

The planking- coffee stirrers were a pain too, warped, different sizes, ect. I tried to fill the gaps with Titebond glue. but the rust mixture made the glue fo darker brown, despite me sanding!

Should I leave or re-do the planks?

The couplers will be in transit from the US soon hopefully.

Alec.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

they look good to me. 

my best suggestion is, unless you're entering a contest, or it really bothers you... run 'em.


----------



## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

Those flat cars are looking good, I would leave the decks alone and let them age naturally. But what I really want to know about is the dual gauge, what are you running for standard gauge power and rolling stock


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks! 
Mik- No contests yet! The reason I build is to run them like you say. 
Andre- Yes it is F and Fn3 on that part of the layout, next year it will be expanded and finished off. 
Nothing to run specially for it yet. I was going to do a Bachmann 45 tonner for it as a temporary measure, but figured it would be a waste of money as it is way to modern. 
Sometime in the future I may do a EBT 0-6-0 switcher and some vintage rolling stock. 

Alec.


----------



## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alec,



They look good! Congratulations. 


If you want to color the decks I would suggest that you use Humbrol or the like - solvent paints to stop any more warping of the 'planks' A suggestion for Humbrol colors are 110/63/93, and possibly 186 which is to add some dark brown to the mix. 


Painting them should also hopefully stop any future warping as well, though it won't stop rain getting through! 


Thanks for the photos - very nice.


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Peter, 
Thanks for the info on the paint- I have been wanting to know 'wood effect' paints that are available here for a while, I can give them a go. 

Alec.


----------



## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alec,

All those listed are opaque enamel paints, when they are dry (mix them as you go along to give a varied base color) then you can add some 'grain' if you want to with either acrylic inks or the 'games workshops' inks, which may wel lbe the same though GW do have a rather nice 'chestnut' color, as well as a dark brown. The (well dried) enamel base layers should stop the acrylic/water mix getting to the wood re warping, to assist in that end only use very small amounts at a time.


Some Humbrol paints have silicone in them: to the water & ink mixture add a small amount (10% max) of windscreen washer fluid; this make the paint 'liedown' and will also, with care, stop it misbehavin' with the silicone.


The above can be done with enamels, and thinners but its a bit more difficult - the thinners can soften the paint when using brushes, and a airbrush is a bit of overkill - the cleaning takes much longer then the painting! 

The MIG range of weathering powders (mix with either enamel varnish - or use Johnson's Klear (acrylic varnish, intended for kitchen floors - its a semi matt finish) for that) are also good for adding color to the decks. Don't forget some dimples to replicate the bolts - it does make a difference. Use a kids compass point for them! (eeer! - that means that my 30footer has 180 bolts on the outer sides!! And to be honest there are many more in the full size versions as the extra end to end beams should really have the same + some others as well!


They are used by the Military Modellers and are good. Carr's also sell some in both brown and grey shades.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Fantastic, mate! The decking looks good. I wouldn't worry about the warping or colors. Just get a wire brush and distress the dickens out of it. Decks got beat up regularly. I've got a 27' flat stalled out on the workbench at the moment. Thanks for the inspiration. 

Not to short Stan on future decal sales, but the Friends of the EBT Company Store sells dry transfer lettering sets in 1:20.3 with accurate lettering for the cars in three different styles. They're sold as "hopper car" lettering, but the lettering would be the same for all freight cars. 

http://www.febt.org/Costore/order.php 

Part nos. 150EG (early graphics as shown on the flat cars) 150GG (gothic sans serif font), and 150AG (the familiar "Acorn" herald). $22 gets you lettering for two cars (and numbers for a LOT more). FEBT members get a 15% discount. All procedes go to support restoration efforts on the EBT. 

Later, 

K


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Alec. Thanks for the compliment, but i think yours are much better detailed than mine! I didn't replace the decks or the other hardware - I just added an EBT-style cut lever. 

I agree with Kevin (as usual,) leave the decks and scrape them with a wire brush to make them even more grungy. 

P.S. I use acrylic paint most of the time, bought from the local arts-and-crafts store. They can be diluted with water, which makesit easy to control the depth of weathering. But as Peter B says, enamels will stop to warping every time to add a new coat!


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks again! 
Peter, thanks for the technique with the paint. I have decided to leave the colour as is but distress the wood slightly- as sugested. But there are some plastic cars that I could try your technique for another project to experiment with. 
Kevin, I have seen the FEBT lettering before, I can try that for a hopper project. 
Pete, Yours had bolts and cut levers, I have found these: http://www.djbengineering.co.uk/index2.html - seem to be right, but a but to expensive for me! 

Alec.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Yours had bolts and cut levers 
Well, I don't exactly recall where the bolts came from, but I bet they were inexpensive Ozark NBW castings! The 'coach bolts' were an experiment with my new tap/die set - I don't think I actually made more than one. 

I also added Ozark poling pockets, though I now have some nicer brass ones from Geoff's efforts with Trackside Details that are more prototypical. 

The EBT cut levers are a distinctive addition. Back when all I had were the Bachmann 1:22.5-ish hoppers, I sat down and made a whole batch. (Which is why they look a bit short on the Fn3 flats!) The handle was a brass bar bent on a jig, with a piece of rod soldered on the end. I made another jig for the mounting bracket and drilled both for a pin. Then I bent the mounting bracket and soldered the pin in place. I still have a few left, as Accucraft is putting good cut levers on thheir hoppers these days!


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks to Pete T and Peter B, I had a go at making one from brass and wire. 
Looks about right, am I going in the right direction?










Alec.


----------



## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Alec,

Right direction - YES: that is looking good and it will be much cheaper! 

Perhaps a bit thicker (extra solder on the front face ?) but it looks good at the moment. An easier method could well be a good thick layer of paint.


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks Peter, 3 more to go! 

Alec.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

As we're talking cut levers, I dug around and discovered my original 2005 (!) stuff . Here's a photo of the prototype. The hook on the end varied depending on the car.










And here's one of my old 1:22.5 hoppers with the cut lever:











Finally, it turns out I wrote up the whole process, so here's the .PDF: 
*EBT Hopper cut lever article*


----------



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Pete, that is a really great artical there. 
Thanks for sharing it with us. 

Alec


----------

