# Best track for outdoor, battery operated?



## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

I'm getting ready to start purchasing track for my out door adventure. So I'm asking what would be the best track to use? I will be switching everything over to battery power so I will not have to worry about track power. I currently have some LGB 332 brass track. I can paint the track to look weathered, which I have done in the past.

Should I continue with LGB?

Switch to something different? Alunium? Plastic? Wood? Some new fangeld gadget?

Go hide in a closet?

Thanks for any help.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Not a recommendation (I use aluminum indoors) but you might consider the plastic rails if you are starting from nothing.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I'd start by checking your wallet...you'll know by doing that yourself... 

What can you spend fot track..on a budget! 

Wood...no 
Plastic. Would not let you get close to it..maybe for display . 
Aluminum. Pretty good choice there...then depends on "your environment"..is it damp? 

If your wallet can cover it. Go SS or .... 

We can advise. 
You have to choose! 

Dirk 
Using Al rail in the desert......


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Plastic is good for a circus ride..lolly pops up and down... 

I've seen it ...just a joke...far too much expansion there... 

D


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Guess I should have stated the enviroment.

I live in So Cal, 50 miles north of LA, about 5 miles from the beach. Dosen't get too hot or too cold. But the salt air is always here. The area is not fully lit by sun, even my grass in that area is hard to grow compared to the rest of the yard.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Whichever material you decide to go with, I would recommend code 260, everything looks better on that smaller rail.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I'm leaning toward aluminum, because it's almost half the cost of brass.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been alum since it came out in 5ft sections. love it.


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Not sure if it's available, but has anyone looked at using a I beam mild steel and machining it down some to look like rail? I have access to a milling machine.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Its back to how much rail you need and what your able to do.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Same 'ol... 
....same 'ol 

Story. When one tries to cut corners in this hobby... 
..they ...eventually come to some reasonable sense... 

Now..leemee see if I got this right so far... 
You wanna compare a steel eye-beam to model rail...do the "work" to male it useable for trains... 
You live 5 miles from the left sea! 

Steel and salt do not play well together... 
How much mill work ( read time here ) is it gunna take to make rail? 

I know you'll come to a conclusion..eventually. 
And do what the rest of us have... 

Sleep on it .. 

D


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

If I had known, I would have gone Code 250 Aluminum Flex in 5' lengths. 
Stainless Steel was/is available at a local store, I wanted it now, so that's what I use.... I also started with track power and SS was good for that. 

Before you re-invent the wheel, or it's roll, you want switches with that? 

John


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

My two cents. Sunset Valley code 250 aluminum with AML or Sunset Valley standard gauge tie strip. Sunset Valley turnouts in Nickle silver or Stainless. All of it on concrete roadbed.


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

You say you already have some LGB track, but not how much and what quantity you need for your expansion. Being in the UK I opted for the track which was available and the most reasonable at that time i.e. Aristo-Craft brass Code 332. I have a mixture of their USA and Euro styles. I like the larger code track, it seems, on my railroad anyway, to be better for ballasting particularly if your tracks are at dirt level. Being at dirt level also means that misplaced feet are less likely to damage this taller and stronger rail.


Another advantage to the higher rail profile, I have found, is that debris from bushes, plants, birds and the rest that you will get in a garden if it has many bushes and plants and gets lots of strong winds, as mine does, is that it seems less likely that you will suffer derailments from this particular source.










As you already have some LGB track, then most of the other Code 332 brass tracks, Aristo-Craft ( still available), USA trains, PIKO, Bachmann and others will match. A reliable dealer will advise you and do look out for the Track Sales which often occur at this time of year.


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Thanks all for the input. I'm not trying to reenvet the wheel ,or track, here. Just looking at what the alternatives are and thinking outside the box some. I have no issues using what is available. I also have no issues making something myself, that's one of the things I like about a hobby, find a way to build/do it myself. It saves money and keeps me out of the bars at night. 

I know all to well about steel and other materials and salt. I've sailed big steel ships all around the world for 30 years. I also have a 400G Salt water aquarium in my house that I've had for a decade. So yes, I know about it. Same thing happens to alunimum as well with salt.

I'd prefer to use balast ina trench on the ground rather than pour in concrete. That way if I ever sell the house or decide to do something else or redo the layout, it would be easier to change.

The switch part I wasn't too worried about. I can but some or even build my own. I did that with my N scale layout so I know what has to be done. It would be easier in G scale than it was in N scale.

But I guess unless I find an inexpensive alternative, then I'll either stick to Brass or go alunimum.


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Sunset valley track and switches a re a fine choice as they have a complete line of products. AMS/AML is also a good choice but they do not have a standard gauge switch available yet. Plus, i am a dealer for both sunset and AMS/AMl, so you can avoid heavy freight costs by aranging local pickup as 
I am somewhat local to you. 
Jerry and Paul are correct, in that code 250 looks so much better, and cost less that code 332. Code 332 has about double the metal of code 250, costs reduce accordingly. 

We have good history with Sunset aluminum in socal, just delivers a over 800 feet late in 2013 to a palm springs locations, among other installations previously. 

jonathan 
www.rctrains.com 
Electric Steam modelworks


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You are not the first to suffer sticker shock with G $cale trains. 
Recently there was a thread about making track with metal strips inserted into slots in ties, google a search for it. 

I used the trench method too and it works well. 
My philosophy is to accept the price and build on a strong foundation.... I run on Stainless Steel and I no longer worry about track. 

Build your track with wood, batteries don't care. But take 'Best Track' out of your title and insert Cheapest Track.. you might get answers you like. 

John


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I hand lay my own switches.. 
I understand the desire to stay out'a bars...or..ha! 

Whatever is used..at the end of the day it needs to be reliable to use for our trains.. 

And not require tons of clean up before running..each time! 

We are here to support each other in this hobby. 
I'm not into store bought stuff..others are enjoying I think it is Piko's new track with a coating.. 

First ...look at all aspects of building a solid foundation for your future trains to run on. 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

John, not looking for cheapiest, but best "bang for the buck". That's why I said inexpensive, which is different than cheap. I want to do it right the first time, not over, hence my questions as I'm new to the outdoor railroads.

K27, can you email me your place of bussiness, or where you are located? I didn't see it on your website. I'm up in the Ventura area but have visited a lot of stores down in the LA area.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Buddy we understand all that, but what may be best for you may not be what I'd define as best. 
Cheap on my railroad is not a floozy lol it means my miserly ways are at work... Use Inexpensive by all means, my thinking was using a Header that attracts the answers you seek. 
That's all. 
Happy Rails, what ever they be, 

John


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'd echo the recommendation for Sunset Valley and/or AMS brass code 250. I use AMS track with Sunset Valley switches on crushed ballast roadbed. It's very sturdy and the brass tarnishes to a nice brownish black in a few seasons. There's also Llagas Creek, which I've used in the past with good success. 

Whatever you do, do yourself two favors. 

1) Buy pre-assembled sections of flex track 
2) Buy a good 2-rail railbender such as that from Train-Li. They're pricey, but worth their weight in gold (or at least brass.) I wouldn't build a railroad without one any more. 

Later, 

K


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Crusty Old Shellback on 04 Feb 2014 09:13 AM 
K27, can you email me your place of bussiness, or where you are located? I didn't see it on your website. I'm up in the Ventura area but have visited a lot of stores down in the LA area.
Jonathan owns Electric & Steam Modelworks. He is located in Chino, CA. Many of us on this site deal with Jonathan. Great guy to work with and he will answer all your questions honestly. I have purchased two locomotives from him and had all three of my Airwire/Phoenix installations done by him. All of my 1/20.3 rolling stock I purchased from EMW.

Email: [email protected]

Website: https://rctrains.com/


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Kevin: 

Hopefully not a "derail", but curiously why recommendation #1? 

I used SVRR aluminium rail on their narrow gauge ties. After painting them I assembled the sections and it took about 5 minutes per section. I just did the assembly on a flat surface (the kitchen counter top) and it wasn't a "big" deal. This was 160' of rail so it wasn't a huge amount but I'd not have any reservations doing more. It was kind of a mindless exercise that was a nice break from other railroad duties and I'd do about 5 sections or so at at time. 

Also, contrary to SVRR's instructions, I use the dual-rail bender from RLD Hobbies and bent each section as they were being laid. It all worked well for me and I'm quite satisfied. This is an indoor layout, but I doubt that should make any difference. 

Thanks, Mark


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Hey John, I fully understand. I just didn't think that putting cheap in the head line would get the responses I was looking for. But I have gotten a lot of info I was looking for from this thread. Happy Rails to you.

Gary, I looked at his website but didn't see a location. I usually pass thru Chino on the 57 on my way down to visit the inlaws down in Escondido. Might just have to leave early one day and make a "pit stop"


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Crusty Old Shellback on 04 Feb 2014 12:08 PM 
Gary, I looked at his website but didn't see a location. I usually pass thru Chino on the 57 on my way down to visit the inlaws down in Escondido. Might just have to leave early one day and make a "pit stop"  
The address and phone number are difficult to locate. But if you click on the Order Form on the first page, all of the contact information you will need is there: telephone number and address in Chino.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

You've got a few points beyond cost to consider. Strength if walked on and lawn debris were mentioned. Using flex track will allow longer lengths of rail (six or eight feet), as well as staggered joiners. Flex track allows you to ease into and out of curves. 

I think aluminum expands more than brass with temperature change, while stainless steel is better still. 

Appearance of 0.250 is a lot better to my eye than 0.332 

If I build outside, where I live theft (literally for scrap metal, often) is a concern, as is vandalism. So I'd consider replacement cost as well as initial cost.


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

If you are looking for track. We have over 6,000 ft of AML 332 Brass flex track in stock and 6,000 ft of AMS code 250 Brass in stock. as well dual railbenders made in the USA


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Big one, lawn debri and theft are not a problem. I only have grass in the back yard and it is surounded on 2 sieds by the house and garage and by a 8' tall brick wall on the other 2. AS of right now, I'v been regulated to the back yard. ;(

Rob, took a quick peak at your site. Almost a one stop shopping for me as I also do home made wine and beer. Now if you had some beer kits to go with the wine kits, I'd be set.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have been using 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron in places where it doesn't matter. I weld them together but you can screw them if you wish.


I also have a Dual Rail, Rail Bender. This allows me to buy all kinds of bargains on E bay and adjust them to what I need on my RR. 

I have gone so far as to take a bunch of 4 ft curves and straighten them out to use on a straight away. 

With Battery power there is a lot of stuff you don't have to worry about. 

JJ


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

I have beer kits as well. I just haven't got the on the website yet. same for wine I don't have everything on the web yet.


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Can you ship them to Calif?

I know some places won't ship them out here while others will.

Since you sell them, I take it you also use them?


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

I'll ship them anywhere. I make mainly wine. about 25 gallons a year.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Mark, if the ties fit loosely into the tie strips, stringing them on can be fairly easy. The Llagas Creek ties and rail I used on my previous railroad, and to a lesser extent the AMS rails and tie strips I use now are on the tight end of the spectrum. The Llagas Creek stuff was a bloody bugger to assemble, requiring copious amounts of soapy water and stringing the ties on two at a time. The AMS stuff I use is pre-assembled, but I have to re-string ties on the rails when I do maintenance, most often because the ties pop off the rails for myriad reasons. I've not strung the Sunset Valley tries, so I don't know how they compare. 

You do bring up a good point... if you're using aluminum or stainless steel rail that you're going to paint, chances are good you'll want the rails and ties separate. 

Later, 

K


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Posted By Robby D on 06 Feb 2014 09:24 PM 
I'll ship them anywhere. I make mainly wine. about 25 gallons a year. I've got a wine rack that holds 240 bottles that I try and keep filled. I make about 75 G a year of wine for the wife and about 100 G of beer for me, Stouts, West Coast IPA's and regular IPA's with a few Belgian Witts thrown in for good measure. We share it with friends and family.


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Glad to hear you share it. Otherwise the wife would be drinking about a bottle of wine a day, and you'd be going through 2 gallons of beer a week? 

I started out 6 or 8 years ago with 332 microengineering aluminum track. At times I've had a little trouble matching it up with other 332 track due to slight size differences in the rail width. 

the other Rodney


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Actually my doctor said the home made beer was good for me. All the fiber and vitimans with none of the preseratives. All natural.

I took a good look at the brass rail I have sitting at home. I'm going to take a look for some 1/4"( i.e. .250 ) I beams in alunimum and steel to see what I come up with. With a good bit, I can easily machine down the top to the correct width for rail. If I can't find any, then I'll be ordering some rail.


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## Skeeterweazel (Feb 11, 2014)

Excuse the hijack, but i'm in similar boat as OP. I'm planning going w/ aluminum track for live steam. Cheapest track i've found is from Accucraft: 12pcs of 6' 332 for $150 +$30 S&H = $2.50/ft. Am i figuring this right? Seems like an OK deal. Any better deals out there? 
Thx. 
Marty


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## Crusty Old Shellback (Jun 3, 2013)

Well after trying to search the web, and talking with some local suppliers, seesm no one know of any 1/4" I beams built in any material besdies plastic. 

Guess I'll have to just buy what everyone else as. But I'll keep looking.


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