# Dry transfer lettering outdoors



## tbug (Feb 16, 2008)

How well - or not so well - would dry transfer lettering hold up outdoors when sealed by a clear matte finish? This would be done on cedar.

tbug


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Dry transfers are basically a Lacquer process. This is teh reason they are hard to get now, as Lacquers are being phased out. Anyway, they will work as any lacquer paint would and need to be protected as such. Wood could be a problem from the back side as it accepts moisture and humidity. 
jonathan


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Have you considered vinyl transfers? They are made for outdoors. I have building signs that are now 5 years old, been outside 24/7, and they still look like new.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I have used dry transfers from woodland scenics routinely. I have left cars outside in the elements and I have noticed that even with sealing they seem to dissappear.

So as long as you don't leave them outside they will work fine...if left outside I don't think so.

You will have to reapply after a time. 

My 2 cents 

Bubba


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Agreed 


Although I like the effect of sun and rain on the dry transfer decals it's not for everyone. I haven't used my vinyl decals outside but those that have are pleased with how they stand up to the wx. 


Dave


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Further to the above....
 
This is what happens when the UV and the weather get at those dry transfer decals - even with a protective coat of clear laquer.
 
Both were outside during two hot summer seasons.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Hee hee, I was down at the railyards yesterday and saw cars that looked just like that. I'd say you are just an expert at representing the prototype.


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## tbug (Feb 16, 2008)

Although I do like the worn look after being outdoors, it will only get worse. Vinyl? Any ways to make it NOT look like new (in time)?

Thanks for the input thus far. What about this idea...

What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look.

What would a sign painter charge for a 10"w x 2"h lettered sign?

Hmmm, tbug


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By tbug on 10/15/2008 9:12 PM
... Vinyl? Any ways to make it NOT look like new (in time)? ...


Hmmm, tbug 


While vinyl does not lend itself to things like scraping it with a saw blade to distress it, you _can_ weather it with paints, etc. and then seal the weathering with clear coat. All of the vinyl I use has a matte finish. No shiny stuff.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have a laser printer you can create your sign with Paint or any text editor and print on paper the size you want. Laser print inks last better than ink jet. Or create the file and take it to a copy shop to print it for you... or print it with an ink jet and have the copy shop (or the copier at the drugstore) dupe it with a laser copier.


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By tbug on 10/15/2008 9:12 PM

.............. What about this idea...

What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look. 




UV is the killer.


Dave


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks prototypical to me. I'd say, "Wow, how'd you get the lettering to weather that way?"


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