# DCC help - New to all this!



## logoguy (Dec 14, 2011)

Hey Guys,

I'm looking to get started with a garden railway and need a lot of help. I came from a DC HO scale background ( years ago ) and really interested in building my outdoor layout.

I decided that Im going with brass track, approx. 100 -150ft through my yard and I know very little about power supply and what my best options are.

I wont have more than 3 locos....currently have one and another on the way ( bachmann spectrum mogul 2-6-0 DCC ready )

What do i need to power the track of that size? 

What DCC unit should i go with? ( under $200 if at all possible )

What do i need to install to the loco itself to have control over it? 

Sorry to sound un-educated about all this. It's much different from my background in indoor HO scale layouts 20 years ago!

Steve


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

You may want to start with a DC power supply with a throttle. Power is not related to the amount of track, but the amount your rolling stock will draw. DCC is a jump, plan a larger budget.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, a good combination sound and motor decoder will cost your around $160-190. 

Inexpensive DCC systems can be had, but normally you run out of current and don't have enough voltage in the economy DCC systems that are really set up for HO motors. 

If you run a 24 volt DC supply and a DC throttle, like an AristoCraft one, then you can use that power supply for DCC later if you want. 

I agree with Mike, jump in with your track and locos, and then see what you want to do. 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

On many fronts, I agree with what's been said above. If you're just getting your feet wet, keep things simple to start. 

However, since you mention DCC, that tells me there may be something there that's appealing to you which you can't get with analog DC. I could be wrong, but why not take a look at what the possibilities are? 

In terms of decoders, yeah--they're going to be the pricey part of the equation. You don't want to skimp there, but what you get in terms of bang for your buck really can't be rivaled. We've got some great sound/motor control boards available to us. 

In terms of DCC base stations, what you're looking to do isn't going to tax a system, so why not look at the smaller "economy" models? I've got an MRC Prodigy Advance2 that I use to program and test DCC installations. It's rated at around 16 volts and 3.5 amps. That's plenty for running one locomotive at a time, maybe 2. Sure, 16 volts isn't going to run the Daily Express very quickly, but you're proposing 100 - 150' of track. You don't want to run very quickly, lest they quickly chase their tails, so the lower voltage won't be noticeable. I rarely send more than 12 volts to my motors at the speeds I run. You can easily upgrade to a "beefier" system as your needs increase, but at least you're started and running trains as you want to run them. 

So yeah... if you're just looking to get started and not sure really where you want to go, hang tight, get yourself a good analog DC throttle and have fun learning. But if you're after the kind of sound and control that's more and more becoming the "norm" in model railroading, there's no reason you can't get going with a lightweight system and build out from there. I have plenty of fun running with my MRC stuff on my shelf railroad. 

Later, 

K


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); @import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); I really like DCC--it's worked extremely well for me. I use the NCE 10 amp radio system, but it was a big chunk of cash starting out. I ran the layout on DC for several year before I committed to it. 

You could ease into it--the NCE system I use comes in a coule flavors. The cheapest would be to get the NCE 5 amp system to start, and then add a booster if you need it to bring it up to ten amps. The 5 amp, wired trottle system is not too expensive, and then you could add more components as you go along--add the wireless throttle and the second booster. 

The cheapest way to get a DCC decoder with sound that I have seen is the Digitrax DH465 decoder and then the SFX004 "soundbug." The decoder can handle large scale and the little "soundbug" chip that plugs into it gives decent sound at modest volume for under $100. I have two of them, one in a Bachmann "thomas" and one in an LGB 0-4-0. They work well, but are not as sophisticated as the more expensive sound decoders. I posted a review here:


http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/17/aft/118244/afv/topic/Default.aspx,


Starting with straight DC is a good idea, but if you know you want to get right into DCC, then you


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I would suggest you look at where you might be in 10 years with your RR. 

If you do not think you will expand, go with small units. 

However I have found many of us grow our Railroads and need bigger and bigger power requirements, so invest in bigger now. 

What you already have is useful on the work bench or under a Christmas tree. 

My first non starter set power pack was the Aristo 10 amp unit for DC power and the 10 amp TE transmitter/receiver back in the year 2000. 

Now there are much better choices for DC. Also, DCC has come a long way and has many choices.


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## logoguy (Dec 14, 2011)

Thanks guys for all your input. I would eventually like to move to DCC, but if I can find a DC that I can expand from that would probably be my best option.


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## logoguy (Dec 14, 2011)

can someone recommend a power supply....particular brand? will any 10amp do? 

I also font a crest 24v power controller on ebay, any good to start off? 

Thanks again for all your help!


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

The crest controller will work well. For the power supply, its amps you want--10 amps is a good number if you want to run anything big or long. You could look for a mean-well s-240-24, which puts out 24 volts at 10 amps 

http://powersupplyemporium.com/product_info.php?products_id=2182 

You'd need to add a power cord to it, which is easy. I've had one for years: very dependable.

You can use the mean-well power supply with a DCC system if you change over later


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Do not get the Aristo Everest, it has electrical issues.... the Elite is OK, but you can get the one lownote recommends... (I use them too)... 

Greg


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## dawktah (Dec 29, 2011)

Posted By lownote on 03 Jan 2012 12:49 PM 
The crest controller will work well. For the power supply, its amps you want--10 amps is a good number if you want to run anything big or long. You could look for a mean-well s-240-24, which puts out 24 volts at 10 amps 

http://powersupplyemporium.com/product_info.php?products_id=2182 

You'd need to add a power cord to it, which is easy. I've had one for years: very dependable.
 
You can use the mean-well power supply with a DCC system if you change over later


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## dawktah (Dec 29, 2011)

This is the second time everything I typed didn't show up! 

I am starting my second layout which is much larger than the present. Will be 175-200 feet of track indoor G-scale. Already have Massoth Central Station and Navigator. How does this transformer in above referenced post compare to the units that cost more than $500??? Future layout will have 4 or 5 locos, with a goal to have 3 running at once. Multiple decoders in passenger cars and buildings, 12 or more switches, 5 disconnects, two timed stop at station. Two separate areas for blocking. I have the MRC 20 and it doesn't power the central station in DC only works on 16VAC. Only have the one loco now so haven't pushed the MRC 20. 

--Chris


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It's almost 10 times cheaper... 

You must be referencing a Bridgeworks power supply. No need for it, the DC from the switching power supply will be fine... I have not found anything that needs a heavily filtered, analog power supply except MTH systems. 

Forgot, you have a Massoth, which apparently needs AC input... I use NCE which will accept AC or DC... The Bridgeworks is not AC I believe. 

With 3 loos running at once, and indoors, 10 amps will be plenty. You have to work really hard to use that up. I have one train that draws 9.97 amps, it has a bunch of lighted passenger cars with inefficient incandescent bulbs and 3 large locos up a 3.4% grade. 

In DCC, you can use multiple boosters (might be expensive with the Massoth though, about the most expensive stuff you can buy). 

Downside of using AC input, is that you cannot easily buy a regulated supply, so the voltage will sag under load. 

Regards, Greg


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## dawktah (Dec 29, 2011)

I was refering to this one:


http://powersupplyemporium.com/prod...ts_id=2182 



You're right Massoth is costing a "King's Ransom." Instructions state the Central Station can accept AC or DC. No matter where I set the throttle, nugde/momentum on or/off the Central Station just flashes on DC. Connect to AC output on MRC 20 and it works. My intended layout is probably child's play in comparison to others on this board, but hopefully I will not need the DiMax 1203B booster. Given what I want to do and the apparent steep learning curve I will probably connect a PC and use software to run layout. So far just a little frustated on lack on instructions provided by Massoth.


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## pryzby1963 (Feb 16, 2008)

I have a very similar basement layout - 220 feet of track, six locos (I have run all at the same time) plus two trolleys on an auto reversing track using analog 5amp LGB power supply. All my locos have Massoth XLS decoders with sound and run on a Massoth DiMax 1210Z 12 amp central station with a wireless Navigator and with a Crest SP-220-24 320VA, 13amp 18 to 28 volt regulated power supply. I an very happy with my layout and control system that is six years old. I am glad I spent the extra money for Massoth. I talked to many dealers and users before making my choice for Massoth which was recommended by Klaus Stork. If you have questions, my email address is [email protected]


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