# Kleine Dicke a.k.a. 995001



## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

After a little over than a year waiting, I finally got delivery of my WYKO DR 995001 IIm live steam locomotive.
I always loved small 0-4-0 locomotives. One of my longtime favorites is the DR 995001. I came across a picture of this locomotive about ten years ago. I fell in love with it instantly. 
German rail enthusiasts lovingly call this locomotive as Kleine Dicke, that translates as Fatty or Fatso. The name is coming from the very short, 75"/1900mm, and rather wide 55"/ 1400mm, superheated boiler. The locomotive was built by Borsig, in 1925. It was designed for the Spremberg city freight rail company. The extremely sharp in city turnouts mandated using locomotives with rather short wheelbase. 995001 has a 59"/1500mm wheelbase. The locomotive worked as Locomotive Nr. 11 until 1956 when the rail sytem in Spremberg closed down. The Deutsche Reichsbahn (DR, the East German State Railways) took over the locomotive and put it in service as 995001 in the Harz mountains one meter gauge railways, where it served until the early seventies. It was sold to a French rail museum. It is still in France, in storege, out of sight. How sad.
About eight years ago I started building a 1/8 scale 5"gauge version of this locomotive. Since I had no plans to the loco, I made them out of available sketches. Not being an engineer or professional locomotive builder, it takes a long time, and I have to constantly revise and rebuild. So it is still not steaming.
Just to get somewhere closer, in having a functioning 995001, I decided to build a garden scale version that I saw first about five years ago at the Sinsheim steam show.
So it arrived yesterday.
The parts are built very well, they feel really robust.
Workmanship and finishing is very good.
Will post building updates as it comes along.
Thanks: Denes
P.S. For those interested,I posted pictures of the 5" loco in the gallery


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking foward to the build! Please do update us. This is the first Wyko kit I've seen here on MLS. and don't be too sad that the orginal is locked away in a shed. It could be worse, like many U.S. engine that have fallen under the torch! There is still hope that one day Fatso could be brought back to life. We'll just have to call him Fluffy now!


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Very neat. Interesting as Dave says to see a Wyko in the states. I'm not sure if our friend Wayne has got many of his open orders with Michael.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Unfortunately there is a reason 995001 is not in working order. The short wheelbase and the fairly heavy weight together with a low speed makes it unsuitable for preserved railways. It is very hard on the track and track maintenance is a big cost factor for these organizations. So Cinderella will sleep for some more time.
BTW, I could not find the pictures of the 5" gauge version.
Regards


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

HMeinhold said:


> Unfortunately there is a reason 995001 is not in working order. The short wheelbase and the fairly heavy weight together with a low speed makes it unsuitable for preserved railways. It is very hard on the track and track maintenance is a big cost factor for these organizations. So Cinderella will sleep for some more time.
> BTW, I could not find the pictures of the 5" gauge version.
> Regards


Here they are:
http://forums.mylargescale.com/members/11314-pappde-albums-kleine-dicke.html


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

I made very good progress today.
Installed the wheels. Removed the hideous and huge LGB coupler link.
Converted the center buffer to a "balancier kupplung". Very much like on the original. I installed a draw hook in the place where the LGB coupler was.
Picture of the rear end of the original.
Next step is the cylinder amd rods.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

This was a very productive weekend.
Fabricated brake rigging.
Painted, then installed brake system. I am only missing a brake cylinder. Maybe a working one, not a dummy?
I think the whole brake system looks pretty prototypical.
I am entertaining the thought more and more about going oil less. In preparation for that I ordered some Teflon bar stock. To machine spacers and bushings, to begin with and to get a feel how to work with teflon on the lathe.
In the meantime I decided to go ahead and install the Regner steam waterfeed pump. The locomotive oiler and the water pump oiler will be moved to the cab.
I have to see how much space I have there with the RC installation. It will be a cramped cab for sure.
You can also see on this picture the very nice Latowski bell. I got this one from Herrmann Echtampf. The original that came with the loco was not fit to be on such a nice machine.
Denes


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## waynesal46 (Dec 29, 2012)

Jason
I have the following WYKO engines: BR10,BR23,BR56, and BR81 Have on order the following;BR01,BR58,BR61,BR64,andBR95. The narrow gauge German engine looks great, enjoy.
Wayne
SA1946


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Another well spent weekend. Finished the motion work. The steering is in place. It took some arduous adjusting of the link pieces. As supplied, there was a fair amount of binding of the parts. Now all move smoothly.
The steering works still a little hard in some positions. Any wisdom from the community?
Finally, the moment of truth. The compressed air test. Worked really well, slow or fast, forward or backwards.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Denes, when you say "the steering works a little hard" are you referring to "Steuerung" as in "Steuerung Walschaert gleichläufig"? Or sometimes Steuerung refers to the the drivers (wheels) and the drive rods.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Changing direction


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

It's coming along nicely!
Steuerung = valve gear
Regards


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Denes, if you mean that the reverser lever is tight when changing from forward to reverse, it *MAY *get better over time by just running it. However, you might need to see how well the "expansion die-block" (The grey circle near the tip of the arrow of #7 below) moves up and down in the "expansion link" (the curved piece that pivots and holds the die-block), see below...

(I can't find a decent picture, that doesn't confuse the die-block and expansion link pivot)










On a couple of my REGNER engines, I needed to polish the inside of the expansion link.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a picture of a full sized die-block resting in the expansion link. It should smoothly slide up and down in the expansion link. (Hope that's not too much information (TMI)!

Not sure if I approve of his chosen workbench!


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks Dave
It sounds very plausible cause. Will disassemble and check die block this weekend.
Denes
P.S. great picture of the link!


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

More progress. Installed valve gear servo. Found for it a very good place. Underneath the footplate.
The two other servos that controll the whistle valve and the water pump will be on the both side of the boiler.
Unexpected snag, broken O ring in the throttle valve.
Also made the exhaust steam condenser. The exhaust opening is in the lower 1/3 of the chimney. It is a very simple affair, but works very well with the Summerlands chuffer. On my Fairymead locomotive I have the same arrangement. It runs very clean, without a drop of water or oil outside. The captured oil burns away in the hot pot. It adds more visible smoke!
The servo is just 0.25 mm thicker than the space between the footplate and the spring housing. When the footplate is screwed in it holds the servo very tight.
Here is a video of the servo action.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

I havent posted an update for a long time.
I am having a hard time with servo placement in the cab. I have not realised that WYKO offers servo brackets to the locomotive. Instead I used the brackets I had at home. This created a lot of headache. I had to move, rearrange and move the servo brackets again. This created a really crowded cab.
I think, finally I am close to the solution. Will post pictures soon.
I dont know how you are with this, but for me the most challenging part was the water gauge glass. I used a 6mm brass rod (I have 5mm glasses) to align the top and bottom parts. It aligned very nicely. Applying the screws with the O rings was the hardest part. I used lots of saliva around the glass, still it was finger braking work!


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

I made nice progress in the past two weeks.
Finished with the installation of the boiler fittings.
I had to rearrange quite a bit. This is a very small boiler and I have way to many components that had to plumbed in.
Throttle
Water-glass
Manometer
Steam valve for the Steam water pump
Whistle valve
Inlet for the water pump check valve
Inlet for the water feed valve (german version of Godall valve)
After all was placed, I made another test run on air:





Denes


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

I am still waiting for the water tank to arrive from Regner. I need it to finish the plumbing connections on the boiler and the water pump.
In the meantime I tackled another problem.
The loco kit came with a one piece cast smokebox front. I prefer to have a smokebox with an opening door. No fear. I bought from Wilgro a two piece smokebox front casting that fits my boiler. I jut had to modify it for my specifications.
And it looks just perfect! See the pic of the original.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Have not posted recently. 
The recent few weeks were hard. I lost my beloved dog, early in May. She was my love and joy for the past nine years.








I was able to get back to build a few days ago.
Finished mounting and connecting the steam waterpump. Here is a video of the air test.





I finally finished installing all the boiler fittings. I had to rearrange the different connections to the boiler three times. I made the design of the arrangement of the different valves, in my head. When I tried to realize the design, it did not fit in to the restraint of the cab or other valve already installed. The cab is indeed crowded now.

































After all was finished and tested on air, a very samall leak was discovered. The lower leg of the waterglass had a very small leak at the point where it was soldered. 








It leaked about 2ml per hour. Herr Wryvich was very kind and very promptly sent me a new lower leg. Now all is well and air and water tight.


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

One small suggestion: turn the whistle upside down so that the condensate drains out. The way it is now the whistle will collect water and will not work correctly.

John


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Hi John
I changed the whole whistle. I realized that I have to move the whistle around to prevent it drowning in water, also I have to keep water off the servo also. Turning the whistle 180º lengthwise would solve these problems, but the I will have a very long steam line. My solution is to "flip" the whistle.










The steam pipe enters the top of the whistle and runs in the middle of the whistle to the base plate.
Sounds good too!





And here is the final setup.










Next up test the loco on steam!


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Very neat.


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

I fired up Kleine Dicke for the first time today.
Mixed results. Loco fires up easy, raises steam fast and maintains steam well.
Water pump works well. Fills boiler easy. The water tank I have is small. Have to watch to keep filled. And fill frequently. As others predicted, the whistle in its current position is a problem. Even with the whistle window facing down, most of the steam is blown back towards the rear. And hits the servo! I managed to cause an electrical malfunction in it. I will try to build a baffle inside the water tank. Maybe that will isolate the servo from steam. There is not too much space on this small loco to place a whistle of this size. I might have to find another alternative.
The steam regulator servo also stopped working after the boiler heated up. Maybe it is too close to the boiler?
Also, I think the chuffer pipe is a bit short. The "chug" is better when the smokebox door is open.
So now back to the drawing board!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Pappde;

I can sympathize with your whistle plight. I tried mounting a whistle on my Regner DeWinton. It looked outlandish and tended to run the locomotive out of steam whenever I tried to blow a crossing signal. 










I also think that the valve had a tendency to weep, which also reduced the steaming efficiency. For now the whistle has been set aside. I may try it again if I ever get a locomotive with a large enough boiler.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## pappde (Jan 21, 2014)

Second steam up.
Made some changes to the servos. Switched to carbonite gear. Also put a heat insulation around the servos. The throttle servo is too close to the boiler and on the first steam up it stopped working halfways the steam up. It was fried I think. I also mad a baffle that will direct the steam and condensate from the whistle away from the whistle servo.
Here is the video:





I consider the test a success.


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