# electrical connections on a F-A1



## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

I have an Aristo F-A1 and two F-Bs. Thing is that the A unit has an electrical connector front and rear and the Bs don’t. The B units are new old stock (1990) and never opened or used. The A unit is used and in excellent condition. I just got all of them off the ‘bay. So, are the electrical connectors on the A unit stock? Should I install these connectors on my B units? If so, where do I get them?


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, the A units have been updated with the "MU" connectors, usually used for battery power... If you open them up you will probably also find the Aristo socket, and the newer style smoke unit. 

The B units were never updated, so old style wiring and no "MU" connectors. 

The answer to your next to last question is if you are running battery and a trail car or sharing batteries between the A and B unit, yes... otherwise you will not use them. 

Last question, you can find these connectiors cheap at all electronics... 

see my page for the part numbers: http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai...nics-mainmenu-225/misc-electronics/connectors 

Regards, Greg


----------



## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 04/04/2009 9:18 PM
Yes, the A units have been updated with the "MU" connectors, usually used for battery power... If you open them up you will probably also find the Aristo socket, and the newer style smoke unit. 

Okay… so if I use them (after installing on the B units) to interconnect the A and B units, will this give me one contiguous electrical unit? I interconnected my passenger cars this way and it eliminated the flickering of the interior lights. Would these connectors also enhance the power supply to all three Locomotives? What is an '_Aristo Socket'_ and the advantage to the newer style smoke unit?[/b]
[/b]
The B units were never updated, so old style wiring and no "MU" connectors. 

The answer to your next to last question is if you are running battery and a trail car or sharing batteries between the A and B unit, yes... otherwise you will not use them.

So, they won’t work to even out track power?[/b] 

Last question, you can find these connectiors cheap at all electronics... 

Like Radio Shack?[/b]

see my page for the part numbers: http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/dcc-battery-rc-electronics-mainmenu-225/misc-electronics/connectors 

Regards, Greg 

Thanks for such a quick answer, Greg. I didn’t even get the pictures taken and uploaded before you came through (LOL)! [/b]


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Service with a smile! 

Yes, you could connect them together, but the power pickup is good enough, and there are other issues, I would not do it, you really don't want to get involved in the wiring vagaries of Aristo equipment now, you want to keep your sanity. 

I do not believe Radio Shack has them.. 

In the newer locos, Aristo has a socket that you can plug remote control or DCC receivers into. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Posted By studeclunker on 04/04/2009 8:45 PM
...SNIP... 

I have an Aristo F-A1 and two F-Bs. Thing is that the A unit has an electrical connector front and rear and the Bs don’t. The B units are new old stock (1990) and never opened or used. 
...SNIP...




Studeclunker, (Studebaker car collector?),

What road name did you obtain for your Aristo ALCO F units?

This has noting to do with the electrical connectors' functionality, but given the '90s NOS vintage of your Aristo ALCO F1 "B" units and that your "A" unit has an electrical connector, your "A" unit is likely of the newer design having non suspended ball bearing motor block trucks - it also being the "lowered" version having less space between chassis & trucks in comparison to the older designed "B" units with suspended motor block trucks that include sleeve bearings.

-Ted


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Yea, your B's are just old ones from before the MU connectors. They'll run fine unconnected.


----------



## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Posted By Ted Doskaris on 04/05/2009 12:09 AM

Posted By studeclunker on 04/04/2009 8:45 PM
...SNIP... 

I have an Aristo F-A1 and two F-Bs. Thing is that the A unit has an electrical connector front and rear and the Bs don’t. The B units are new old stock (1990) and never opened or used. 
...SNIP...




Studeclunker, (Studebaker car collector?),

Yes, Ted, I drive Studebakers. Currently have one for sale if you’re interested.










What road name did you obtain for your Aristo ALCO F units?


This has noting to do with the electrical connectors' functionality, but given the '90s NOS vintage of your Aristo ALCO F1 "B" units and that your "A" unit has an electrical connector, your "A" unit is likely of the newer design having non suspended ball bearing motor block trucks - it also being the "lowered" version having less space between chassis & trucks in comparison to the older designed "B" units with suspended motor block trucks that include sleeve bearings.

-Ted 


Ah, that would explain why the A and B units don’t like to couple easily.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually the different trucks should not have anything to do with the coupling. The lowered chassis might. Also, some older Aristo couplers need to be slammed together to couple.. if you standardize on Aristo couplers, you will be buying some replacements. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Studeclunker,


Be aware newer Aristo production runs of their knuckle couplers are at risk of physically distorting and pulling apart (not unlatching) under heavy load conditions.
My experience with the real old production runs was, like Greg stated, not latching when attempting to couple up cars so you would have to slam the cars together to make them work. Worse, these older ones would tend to unlatch under heavy loads. 

BTW, What year and model Stude do you have for sale?


-Ted


----------



## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Actually, they will run better if they ARE interconnected. If they really are 1990's vintage units, then you can access track power without even opening them up. Just find some small lugs and connect them to the trucks like the black and white wires that are already there. You can connect them forward to the A unit with one of the Aristo style plugs or these: 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips3/connector_tips.html


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So George, the power pickups are not all that good on their own? Would this just be insurance from dirty track and/or wheels, or is it the pickup system itself? 

I've never heard anyone complain that the power pickup system was not very good on the FA... (but maybe I'm hard of hearing!). 

Regards, Greg


----------



## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Insurance against dirty track and wheels. The more wheels are on the track that can supply power to the whole consist, the more that the consist can tolerate dirty track. This means that the track does not have to be cleaned as often. 

It does work.


----------



## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Posted By Ted Doskaris on 04/05/2009 7:53 PM
Studeclunker,

Be aware newer Aristo production runs of their knuckle couplers are at risk of physically distorting and pulling apart (not unlatching) under heavy load conditions.
My experience with the real old production runs was, like Greg stated, not latching when attempting to couple up cars so you would have to slam the cars together to make them work. Worse, these older ones would tend to unlatch under heavy loads. 

BTW, What year and model Stude do you have for sale?

-Ted 

Oh… that’s[/i] great news! Well, forewarned is forearmed. I just may have to convert the whole consist to Kadee. Maybe… I’ll have to see how it goes.

She’s a 1959 Lark Delux. The old girl is kinda rough and needs a lot of TLC. There's information on the 'ol girl here:

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27585


----------



## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing I have found out about these bricks either new or old that maybe not all wheels are picking up like intended. If it looks like your getting a jurky movement out of them then check the power pickup. found several lately that failed. Later RJD


----------

