# New loco design.



## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Wondering if anyone has any similar projects or any similar proto type info. 

Afaik it is 100 percent freelance 

060 horizontal pot boiler with a simple osalating engine and flywheel on the front in front of the boiler 
A simple reversing and neutral clutch. Then goes down via chain drive to the axle 


Seems like a simple build compared to the scaled down a3 I was trying 

Trying to get plans uploaded to photobucket but I'm doing all this on an iPhone :/


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); @import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Sorry that took so long 
Here are a few really rough sketches and a few rough draft plans 
(plans are to scale)


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

```
[IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i275/astreafish/1ca97581.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i275/astreafish/3d9fb228.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i275/astreafish/e7a55785.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i275/astreafish/5527c262.jpg[/IMG]
```


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

You can't use the UBB/Forum Code tags (i.e. that is the ones with square brackets ( [ & ] )) you've gaot to use HTML tags, which use the angle brackets (i.e. < & > see below image).










You might also want to check out the FAQ (Irequently Asked Questions), You can navigate to using the below example path, or just click the link.

MLS menu bar >> Resources menu >> FAQ >> As a Standard Member how do I use the Rich-text/HTML Editor[/b]


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

I got it just could not get to the html section from the mobile. had to log into pc and edit the post. Been a while since i posted photos here and always forget it does not use 'BB' code and doesnt auto sense HTML


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Interesting idea. Would you use spoked drivers with crank pins, or some other type of wheel arrangement?


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Hey Chris, haven't heard from you in a while. Try to stop by at Tradewinds this coming weekend, it's a run day!


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## spincaster (Mar 10, 2012)

Aster 0-6-0?


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

It is gear and chain driven 


And yes I'll try and be at trade winds actualy have both days off this weekend for once...


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## spincaster (Mar 10, 2012)

Aster made an oscilator gear driven 0-6-0 based on JVRs design way back when. Why not build a "real" loco?


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Posted By spincaster on 16 May 2012 08:19 AM 
Aster made an oscilator gear driven 0-6-0 based on JVRs design way back when. Why not build a "real" loco? 


I intend to do the pensy a3 switcher eventually 
As well as a mikado I have been drawing out in cad for the past year 
However those each have thousands of parts. Id like Somthing with only a few hundred to practice on 
That would also be more forgiving to errors


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

here is a similar engine building log...I have to get back to...

It started with a Graham Industries model engine.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Have you made any more progress? 
looks like that will be a nice engine with the detail you put into it. 

I love my little ruby but cant wait to run somthing i said i made from scratch. 

still getting all the tools needed for my sherline mill and lathe but its been slow... with a wedding this year and work being slow. 
still need a 4 jaw chuck they run 130 for a sherline or 99 for offname that can be adapted to a sherline ( just need to shave the shaft a little) 
Kinda sad the mill has done more work on my rifle then it has my trains lol.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Oscillators make great motors for Gauge 1 loco's. They are simple to build and simple to operate. Oscillating motors turn at pretty much one speed, around 400 RPM. 20 PSI steam pressure is about maximum. Use a 3:1 to 4:1 gear/chain reduction. That will give it good torque and reasonable speed. Pot boiler will work great. Maybe add some porcupine quills to help transmit more heat inside the boiler.


According to the Australian Model Boiler Safety Code (AMBSC), boilers operating under 29PSI can be soft soldered. That would greatly simplify the project. 


We've been running "Chip" very hard since finishing it this winter. Chip has no throttle, no safety, no reverse and no lubricator. Fill, light, run. The motor acts as a safety. If the pressure gets too high, it lifts the cylinder. More accurately, it blows by the cylinder.











Chip 

Good plan. Go for it


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Any details on te engine it self 

Can't really find any details on port location or angle in relation to piston rod total length to stroke 

Far as I can tell Overall piston length (piston top to crank pin)is 2.5 to 3.5 times stroke 
Crank pin center sits that distance under the pivot of the cylqnder . 
If you draw a line from a point 1/2 distance of stroke 45 degrees out from 
Crank pin center passing from that point throu te pivot and then from the pivot add a little over 1/2 stroke distance and you should have where one of the inlet or outlet port goes 



Or am I just crazy noticing this trend?


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

I have a reprint of an old book on making, among other things, a couple of types of oscillating steam engines, the single acting, and the double acting, with ports on both ends. It doesn't give many measurements, but it has reasonably good drawings of the assemblies. To me, it looks like you have to decide on the length of the stroke, and the length of the piston and rod. Thport location would be determined by the maximum angle that the cylinder pivots. I would think that you would draw a line from the crank pin at maximum angle of pivot, through the pivot pin up to just past the upward length of stroke. I'm not sure if you want the port at max angle or slightly less than max angle, depends on when you want the port to line up in the cycle. If you make a double acting cylinder, the same would apply for the lower ports also. Maybe someone else with more knowledge than myself could say how close to maximum angle to put the ports. And also, I'm guessing you already know this but, there's only 1 hole in the cylinder wall, and 2 port holes in the slide plate.


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## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

Try reading this, 

http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/diyoscillator.pdf 

regards 

ralph


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Ralph I just skimmed that as i am leaving for work but so far that looks PERFECT.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

These things are lots of fun to do and they have a lot of character. I did this one years ago...yours will be better!


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

I love the wood work. What's that fueled by


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

she burns alcohol and and her oak frame! I made a little doughnut shaped tray filled with fiberglass insulation as the burner which works OK when it has JUST the right amount of fuel...too much and it spills out and everything catches fire too little and well too little happens!


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Using google sketch up as i cant fidn my auto cad serial number... may just downlaod a crack since i paid for it once and wont pa again lol google sketch up only allows 1/16th inch increments so a few small things dont line up but the idea is the same.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Mr J.P. Duval has a very nice oscillator design on his website. 7mm bore by 10mm stroke. But you can scale the size you want from the plan. "Chip" uses that motor with a scale of 1mm = 1/16". Chip is 7/16" bore and 5/8" stroke. Here is Mr Duval's plan: 7mm x 10mm 


Here's his website. It's all French so just read the pictures: Mr Duval's website


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

was going to start this project today with some scrap steel for the frame but found out it isnt square (has a big bow to it down centrline) 
anyways 
I will order good stuff from mcmaster but have a question. Think a sherline mill can handle working on 1018 carbon steel? the price is 14 bucks for 6 ft vs 57 bucks for 6 ft of brass.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I ave best luck milling free machining brass. I have had problems with hard brass. I have hesitated to try steel or stainless, though some cuts pretty well with the right tooling. I would add that because mine is CNC controlled rather than manual I do not have the benefit of the "feel" of the metal as it cuts, the machine just charges ahead at the speed i selected on the computer when programming it. you may have better luck with harder materials than I have had. give it a go and see what happens! you are only out a few bucks as you say.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

i chipped an endmill today on a piece of unknown scrap i think its that steel stuff from homedepot.. no clue.. 

cost difference isnt much it would be 9 bucks for all 1/4 inch thick pieces.if using a combo of brass and steel and 24 bucks for all brass..


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have a whole bin full of busted endmills!


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Plan changed ditched the side tanks for a small boiler jacket that allows for pot boiler still.


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## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

Before you finalise your boiler design -could I suggest you read this? 

http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/mls/g3/Little Steamers.pdf 

regards 

ralph


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By cjsrch on 23 May 2012 04:34 PM 
was going to start this project today with some scrap steel for the frame but found out it isnt square (has a big bow to it down centrline) 
anyways 
I will order good stuff from mcmaster but have a question. Think a sherline mill can handle working on 1018 carbon steel? the price is 14 bucks for 6 ft vs 57 bucks for 6 ft of brass. 
I don't know if a Sherline will cut 1018. Give it a try. Run it at the slowest speed you have and use oil. If it chatters too much, hacksaws, files and off hand grinding are time honored methods. You should develop hand skills as well as machine skills. As for bent material -- straighten it. Work it over the edge of the bench and use a straight edge to check it. If you cut a thin piece of new stock lengthwise, it's likely it will twist anyway. Thin brass strip cut lengthwise will twist like a curly que.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

That is true I could grind most of it and im sure the drills and taps will still work. 

For a couple bucks it's worth a shot. 

Changed the design again for use of thinner metal like was done on"the nina" 
And will use bushing rather the. The screw in style axle box


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By cjsrch on 28 May 2012 08:04 AM 
That is true I could grind most of it and im sure the drills and taps will still work. 

For a couple bucks it's worth a shot. 

Changed the design again for use of thinner metal like was done on"the nina" 
And will use bushing rather the. The screw in style axle box 
Some stretchers between the frame add a lot of strength. It will be rock solid.


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