# Removable Track Section



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

My railway has a 12 foot gap where I needed a removal section of track where it is 18" above the ground.








The original 'bridge' was made up of two separate pieces on wood with a central block that the two pieces were placed on. Like much of the track it suffered over the years and was always a pain to set up and take down, so I wanted something in one piece and easier to put in place.
A couple of years ago, my son had presented me with a bunch of steel slotted angle material and after a bit of measuring, I worked out that I would have enough to make up a sort of cantilever bridge.








This has proved to be nice and strong, but a little on the heavy side and awkward to maneuver into place, so I needed to build something. Here is the first version which may or may not be improved on.








It is on casters (since I am rolling this on a solid surface this works for me) and is slid into position under the bridge.








As you can see, there are strange shaped plywood pieces that fit under the bridge so that the lifting is transferred to the underneath of the top of the bridge, and as it is curved, it is offset to keep the balance even.








The green painted lever acts upon a rope that connects the two lifting levers that in turn lift the plywood pieces to lift clear of the ground. I should explain that one of the reasons for an even lift is that with the two inboard legs on the bridge, when you lift just one end, the other end goes down, so it is not possible to only attach one end of the bridge to the track at a time.
The green lever is currently held down in the lifting position by a hook and eye. (Hey, it works)








So the bridge is rolled into position so that just one pin can be inserted through the bridge and into a brass tube in the track baseboard.








Then the bridge is swivelled into position so that the remaining four pins can drop into position.
As you can see, being lifted, the bridge alignment extensions are well clear of the rail.








The green lever is then unhooked and the bridge lowered down to the ground, with the alignment pins keeping it in the correct place. Then the rail joiners are slide across and the railway is ready for use.








It probably only takes a couple of minutes to put the bridge in, or take it out.








I plan to make it look a little more bridge like by adding some railings or something - one day!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Pretty dang clever solution!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

A real quick way to make tracks join and have power conducted is to use the track expander, sand much easier than sliding track joiners.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Or lift out bridge joiners:


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Thanks Greg.
I looked at similar ways of doing this, but stuck with the sliding rail joiners because they hold the rail both laterally AND vertically so I can be assured of good alignment by just sliding them on.
No screws to tighten or anything additional.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That's true, although I thought gravity was holding them "down".

Clearly you have a nice method that works.

Regards, Greg


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Although they might have saved having to build the dolly, I suppose you didn't like the look of foot peddle operated retractable wheels?


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job. I used 3x4 inch aluminum tubing to make two lift out bridges at my last house. They worked because the spans were straight. You have a curved span that is even longer than my 13 feet.


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