# Stainz Mallet - FINALLY more progress pix!



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

HOW long ago did I start on this thing? The original thread is HERE, but I'm afraid to even look. Toooooo long anyway.

Today I brushed the cobwebs off (literally, actually they were spider webs, lots of them... little bugger had been busy), and did some more chassis work. Somewhere I've misplaced a package of Ozark brake shoes, so only half are installed, but I added the pivot rods and lift arms for the reversing gear on both bricks, and a Manzell mechanical lubricator (A plastic casting, came in a bunch of miscellaneous junk I got off evilbay, I had it, so...) to the engineer's side of the front engine. I also mounted the dumplex pump and modified the power reverser I got off Bruce Chandler to look more like the one on Skookum.








Jerry McColgan was nice enough to sell me a LGB 2-4-0 tender awhile back. I finally got around to seeing how it actually looked with the beast. I'm thinking it may need narrowed about 1/4" and the tank shortened about 3/8" to really look right, But that's a LOT of cutting.I'll probably change out the trucks for B'mann archbars as well. I also got this nice LGB trailing truck from England, which I promptly cut up to make it fit. It will still require a bit more trimming on the overhang on the rear engine brick to let it swing freely enough for R-2 curves.



















Next step is to add some more in cab details. Tri cocks, water column, maybe an Ozark fire door, pressure gauges, etc. I think the injectors will be mounted out in the open in front of the cab like on the EBT Mikes just for visual interest....


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I shortened the tender tank this morning -- and decided narrowing it was too much like work, at least for now. Then took off every other step on the ladder so it looks better to me. I'll take more pix after I re-install the grab irons. So far it actually looks pretty good, except for being missing the bottom row of rivets. It's still a little taller than the prototype (needs shortened another 1/4" or so), but taking that much additional off would require a bit more drastic reconfiguring.









I also got rid of that long curved bar on the reverser in favor of a vertical one -- more in keeping with Baldwin practice on these little Mallets. And added the 4 air tanks under the running boards, water column, larger fire door and try-cocks. It's apart again to add weights and wiring, so here's the Baldwin builder's photo of Little River #126 (aka Skookum) to give you an idea where I'm headed.










I'm going to be away this weekend helping the antique machinery club in Portersville make cider and apple butter, so my renewed interest in this project has to be put on hold again.... hopefully NOT for another two months.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

A bit more tender progress... I changed out the truck sideframes and wheels, trimmed off the truck support pads and kingpins to lower the body, rebent the handrails to fit the shorter shell, replaced the front steps, and added a brake wheel. Still needing to be added are the tender shutoff valves, brakes and chains on the trucks and rerail frogs. I think it's actually starting to look about 'right' for the loco.









Posed with the locomotive - which is just sorta temporarily stuck together at the moment. I gotta do a LOT more to it before she'll be ready to go


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm thinking maybe I should name this thing "Republic" (Only because "Congress" doesn't sound like a proper engine name).... The entire project has been more cussing than progress, hopelessly behind schedule, waaaaaayyy over budget, and had so many revisions that I'm lucky the end result looks anything like what I originally planned.............

I FINALLY wired the headlight and smoke unit, and fastened the boiler to the chassis. The smokebox door got changed out because the old one was TOO old (1880s vs 1910). I couldn't get the number plate off the new door, so the square one got stuck back in my parts bin. Maybe another day I'll feel like drilling it out.









Poor old Fritz, he was about 1/4" too tall. So he had meatball surgery. Now he looks like a bow legged midget, but at least he gets to drive 










The end is in sight! I hope.....(The table has a sag, it doesn't sit crooked)


----------



## DarkTalon (Nov 8, 2008)

Really liking it so far..i've had a couple of stainz blocks sitting around for ages that i've been wanting to similar with, just didn't know how to bridge them..do you have any pics of that process and materials used, by chance? THANKS!


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

DT, That was explained back on the other thread. In a nutshell I superglued blind nuts to the tops of the motor blocks, ans used the c-16 baseplate to make a bridge, which also serves as the bottom of the boiler shell. I used short cap screws and springs to finish the connecting job. 









I also glued a strap across the front of each brick which engages a hook on the underside of the chassis to keep the bricks from drooping when picked up. 










And a pic of the c-16 boilers (it took 3) might have been easier to build from scratch


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Only because "Congress" doesn't sound like a proper engine name 
Not if you want it to actually _go_ anywhere.  And you really have to watch out for track that wants to lean left or right... 

All kidding aside, that's turning out quite nice. 

Later, 

K


----------



## DarkTalon (Nov 8, 2008)

Wouldn't have assembly of that bridge though would you? I'm not quite following how it goes together, is the big issue I'm having(yes i'm a little dense when it comes to figuring out things sometimes!) I'm moving to 7/8 so what I'm making will appear to be a bit shorter engine, more like a Meyer, but it'll be freelanced so I can't really compare it to much otherwise!


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Just the ones I showed you. 



All there is to it is a flat piece about an inch wide and 8" long with holes drilled on each end and flat washers glued top and bottom for 'bearings'. I added a couple lengths of 1/4 x 1/4 basswood for strength, but they probably weren't needed. The blind, or tee nuts are available at Lowes. Get the ones with the little buttons, not the spikes.


----------



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Maiden run 05-DE-09!!!!! It's still not finished because I'm still waiting on a pair of injectors, but the girls insisted... 

Pilot wheels were a little stiff, and the new headlight bulb decided it was burnt out, but after about 5 minutes we had all that sorted out. She's amazingly quiet, nearly perfectly silent, will creep at about 18"/minute if you want, and all that monkey motion is just a blast to watch!


----------



## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

WOW! That has become a good looking locomotive!!!


----------

