# New Layout Begun



## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

This is a layout I'm beginning for someone else above a 3-car garage. When I started it was a group of tables, like the one shown, in the center of the 12' x 37' room with access around the perimeter. That meant a lot of head bumping on the slanted ceiling! I'm changing it to a shelf layout attached to the wall and crossing over stairwell railings to the other half of the room where it will have a lift-out section for access to storage closets. The wood blocks are on 16" centers and will hold horizontal stringers on legs. It will be about 3' deep for easy arm reach and wide enough for several tracks, switches and buildings. This will also allow for wider curves. More photos as it progresses. If anyone who has built one of these has any helpful input, it is always welcome.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Pretty cool.


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

As someone who is always bumping my head on low things, I think this will be an excellent design. Plus lots of space inside to move around. Can't wait to see more.

Paul


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting! Look forward to seeing a track plan


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By bottino on 11 Jan 2010 08:37 AM 
Can't wait to see more.

Paul 



Progress report! Wish I could just copy and paste all those stringers. But, progress is progress whether it's slow or fast, right?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Is everything going to be on the walls, or will you have a track "cut across" on a duck under bridge? 

The benchwork looks nice. 

Regards, Greg


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Here's something less than a thousand words...the curves and switches have not been determined yet. It was designed with O gauge track so the conversion to G has not been made at this point.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Good progress so far! 

As far as the track plan goes... 

...you have a dreaded 'S' curve situation brewing at the Villiage. Hmmm...maybe move 
the villiage so that it is coming out of the corner there instead of along the wall? 

Might also want to drop the two switches at the 'bottom' of the plan. (So trains on the villiage 
loop *have* to pass through the villiage. 

Also notice you have the biggest table sections in front of the windows. Not sure about that, 
you might want to get to those windows sometime. 

Pretty good overall though - one liftout, no real 'reachj' problems, fair amount of mainline run. 
Might even be able to do most of it with R3 (8 foot diamter) curves; not sure what is supposed 
to be ran on this layout.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Good thinkin' ThinkerT! I plan to do the basic 2' benchwork all the way around with 4' square panels on the four corners then come back and see what additions will work and what ones won't. Thanks.


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## Al McEvoy (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks good so far SoCalStu. Suggestion - for the section that passes over the stairs, make sure you have some sort of "guard rail" edge on the shelf such that any equipment that happens to derail in this area (MURPHY'S LAW…) doesn't take a surely-fatal fall down the stairs. Also get that drawing worked up in 45mm track G-"Scale" sooner than later. Big difference between G and O - will especially affect clearance at curves and corners due to much larger overhang with G equipment. 
Al


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

What's on the far right side, past the lift-out bridge?

I think it's great to have the entrance inside the railroad, by the steps.


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## ZachsPappaw (Jan 3, 2008)

nice, I could play there









Jeff


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

In your Northeast and Southeast corners, I think I'd use a bigger radius curve instead of a straight section in the inside curve.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good. Just think about the two reverse curves, could be a problem. Later RJD


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Will do, thanks! Finished the framework this week. Looking forwad to putting on the plywood and designing the lift-out.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By Torby on 15 Jan 2010 05:40 PM 
What's on the far right side, past the lift-out bridge?


They are small closets with shelves on which the trains are stored. The benchwork now runs behind the guest lounge chairs and past the closet doors. The lift-out section in the center between the doors allows standup access to them. The anticipation increases as more and more plywood is applied!


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Too bad you couldn't just knock a few holes through the walls and send the trains through the closets.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By ThinkerT on 19 Jan 2010 01:49 AM 
Too bad you couldn't just knock a few holes through the walls and send the trains through the closets.
Too much wiring and studs to contend with. Today I framed in the yard extension and possible station location. Also tested the 8' curves and 10' switch double crossovers. Boy, those really take up a lot of real estate!


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

This is shaping up to be a nice warm place to play, what Motive power will you be running?


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 20 Jan 2010 05:28 PM 
This is shaping up to be a nice warm place to play, what Motive power will you be running?
Yeah, the fellow I'm building it for put in full HVAC. With our rain storms coming through, I can listen to the rain on the roof as I work. He has LGB now and began with a small R1 layout he built himself. Showing him what could be done with a shelf layout inspired him to go all out. He'll be buying motive power that will require those 8' curves shortly.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

8 foot diameter curves in a twelve foot wide space...yep, that'll eat uo some room...hopefully you won't get into trouble with the corners...


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By ThinkerT on 20 Jan 2010 06:58 PM 
8 foot diameter curves in a twelve foot wide space...yep, that'll eat uo some room...hopefully you won't get into trouble with the corners... I laid out loose track to see if it will work and I have a few feet of straight between corners on the ends of the room. I'm using 8' curves on both the outer and inner mainlines. That gives me greater seperation for onverhang on the 4 corners. Anyone have a recommendation for mating Aristo track with LGB? Seems the joiners are slightly different.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Force'em - they'll fit once you shove them together. There is a slight difference in web thickness between AC and LGB rails but once together there good to go, been mixing track since I started. Hint - A little conductive grease in the joiners assures a solid electrical connection


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks V, I'll try that. Can I solder the leads to the joiners? Too bad the ties are different colors. I may have to do some painting as well.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, you can solder wires to brass joiners easier than the rail.

Take the joiner off the rail. Clean the bottom well, I used a polishing wheel in a dremel. Then put some resin flux (not acid flux). My Weller 100w soldering gun is plenty to heat the joiner and solder a wire.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks, Torby. The plywood is on and the lift bridge is finished.! Next comes the fascia and paint. Now I'm thinking 16AWG buss wire with 18AWG drops.

[url]http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj144/SoCalStu/104_1393.jpg[/b][/url] 
(image exceeds 800 pixels in width changed to link, SteveC)[/i]


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Wonderful! Another great indoor layout in progress. I've been following along and you definitely have things under control. I'd be interested in what 'theme' your planning on introducing but it looks as if you've thought about some continuous running while your switching another train in and around the inside track. Sadly, something I never thought of. 

Best of luck with this.


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## coyote97 (Apr 5, 2009)

I dont know if we can tell how fine this is going to be!
I am planning for months on my indoor-part, and all what is left are some tracks and s turntable, because i have to fit in workplace to do minor works on cars and locos. 

Here is not THAT much space, so this layout is incredible. Simple, but good. ME, I know how short space is with a G-Scale RR indoors.

So, hats up, men! This is going to be very fine.

Im curious to see how the landscape will be and what will be the "all-in-all" -impression.


Go on!

Frank


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

SoCalStu, 

as i myself am building an indoors layout too, and the fact, that you are building for a customer implicates that you got experience... 

i would like to consult about the benchwork. 
why do you build it with a solid tabletop? 
where do you see the advantages and disadvantages of a closed tabletop or an open framework? 

thanks, korm


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Hi, Korm,

I like to do cookie-cutter layouts but I have to have the room to do it. I did one in a 16'x26' in O that came out great. On this one I have 10" from table top to slant of the ceiling. Not enough room for an over/under or wild and fun flying bridges. The customer wanted to maintain the 2' reachover where ever possible and have a flat surface for scenery.

Here I've started installing fascia to cover the rough plywood edges and the screw heads. It also provides some protection in event of a derailment...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj144/SoCalStu/104_1396.jpg[/b] 
(Image exceeds 800 pixels in width changed to link, SteveC)[/i]

But it causes a problem at the lift bridge so I simulated a girder bridge that will still fold back on itself by meshing inside the fascia...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj144/SoCalStu/104_1397.jpg[/b] 
(Image exceeds 800 pixels in width changed to link, SteveC)[/i]


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By SoCalStu on 27 Jan 2010 05:06 PM 

Hey, da,
No theme at this point. Still to come.

Hi, Korm,

I like to do cookie-cutter layouts but I have to have the room to do it. I did one in a 16'x26' in O that came out great. On this one I have 10" from table top to slant of the ceiling. Not enough room for an over/under or wild and fun flying bridges. The customer wanted to maintain the 2' reachover where ever possible and have a flat surface for scenery.

Here I've started installing fascia to cover the rough plywood edges and the screw heads. It also provides some protection in event of a derailment...










[/b]
But it causes a problem at the lift bridge so I simulated a girder bridge that will still fold back on itself by meshing inside the fascia...











(Sorry for the size mixup)


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Hey, Korm, how about sharing a photo or two? Would love to see the layout.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Stu, was that you I spoke with at Thanksgiving Point last weekend?


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Posted By SoCalStu on 27 Jan 2010 10:28 PM 



Hey, Korm, how about sharing a photo or two? Would love to see the layout.


well, it's still in the chaos-stage. nothing much to show. but that what there is, you'll find, if you follow the link in my signature. (most everything was posted here in one thread or another)


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By Dave F on 27 Jan 2010 11:14 PM 
Stu, was that you I spoke with at Thanksgiving Point last weekend? No, don't remember anything about Thanksgiving Point, but then that was almost a week ago!!


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

My mistake... sorry..


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## Dave Ottney (Jan 2, 2008)

Stu, 
Nice benchwork. 
Dave


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good but still have concerns on the S curves. Later RJD


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Well, AceinSPP, the S curves are no more. Now you can sleep well tonight! We've shifted the mountain/tunnel and now it takes up more space on the left. Amazing how a fresh coat of paint brings it to life! Just poured it on and rolled it out. No paint tray to clean! The track was laid out just to see if we have enough of what we'll need.


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## ZachsPappaw (Jan 3, 2008)

I painted mine green, but I kinda like that color.

Jeff


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

"It's not easy being green," sings Kermit. But after the track is in the green will eventually come from scenery.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Two little kids at the Milwaukee trainfest informed me in no uncertain terms: *"You paint the ground brown and put the green grass over the brown paint."* They thought a piece of our layout wasn't done right. I humored them and told them I didn't paint that part. (I didn't)


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Are you going to put foam down under the rails? 1" thick would be enough, recommend something or you'll get alot of noise, also gives to texture depth to work on the scenery.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Not planning on it. Ran an LGB on a long stretch and noise wasn't a factor. It helps to screw down the surface well to kill the 'drum effect.' Also compared metal wheels and plastic wheels and plastic further reduced the noise significantly. Cork wasn't a noticeable difference. The foam isn't readily available in SoCal and I was quoted over $40 for a 2'x8' sheet. I used to get a 4'x8' for $35. So, we'll see how it goes without it for now. If necessary we can remove some screws and slip it under later.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I just bought a 4 by 8 sheet of 3/4 inch pink foam for like $9 last fall.

The roadbed at the Mitchell Domes in Milwaukee is pink foam painted.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SoCalStu on 30 Jan 2010 10:07 PM 
Not planning on it. Ran an LGB on a long stretch and noise wasn't a factor. It helps to screw down the surface well to kill the 'drum effect.' Also compared metal wheels and plastic wheels and plastic further reduced the noise significantly. Cork wasn't a noticeable difference. The foam isn't readily available in SoCal and I was quoted over $40 for a 2'x8' sheet. I used to get a 4'x8' for $35. So, we'll see how it goes without it for now. If necessary we can remove some screws and slip it under later. 

Try it for a while see how loud it is in use,but before you start laying down any Scenery. It can be a real headache installing after


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

The thing that impresses me most is knowing how messy this work can be, and the pics look so clean. I'm sure that shop vac is getting an Olymipc workout. 

Looking great as well


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

V: I'll check into special ordering. No store within driving range has it in stock. 

Kent: Well, it was very messy with the chop saw and circular saw. But what you can't see is all the sawdust worked down into the carpet. Hopefully a vacuum with a rotating brush will get it out.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Theres a place in Burbank that sells blue foam in 1 and 2 inch thick sheets, Foam Sales 

http://foamsalesandmarketing.com/


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks, V, for the lead. They only sell 2'x8' sheets. It's $39 for a 2" thick sheet or $20 for a 1" thick sheet. Only $8 for a 1/2" thick sheet which would probably work.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Hope you do not decide to use plastic wheels. Will cause you additional problems down the road. Will gum up track eventually. Glade the S curves are gone smart move even tho they are cool looking. later RJD


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks, RJD. Now I'm wondering about track spacing to accommodate buildings that he doesn't have yet. He'll probably want some buildings, station, roads but I'm not sure how much room they will need. Any general rule for leaving enough room to accommodate buildings and streets? What size footprint might a station have?


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i calculate 6 and a half inches space for a single track. 
then you might want to add oneto three inches per platform. 
for short trains (loco, tender, plus five foot-worth of cars, i need ten foot for a one-siding station. (switches in R1)


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## blackburn49 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SoCalStu on 28 Jan 2010 07:36 PM 
Well, AceinSPP, the S curves are no more. Now you can sleep well tonight! We've shifted the mountain/tunnel and now it takes up more space on the left. Amazing how a fresh coat of paint brings it to life! Just poured it on and rolled it out. No paint tray to clean! The track was laid out just to see if we have enough of what we'll need.










This is turning into ONE impressive layout especially considering the limitations of size. It is both visually appealing and maximized for the conditions.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SoCalStu on 03 Feb 2010 10:48 AM 
Thanks, V, for the lead. They only sell 2'x8' sheets. It's $39 for a 2" thick sheet or $20 for a 1" thick sheet. Only $8 for a 1/2" thick sheet which would probably work. 1/2 inch should be all you need, just enough to cut the soundboarding into the plywood.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By aceinspp on 04 Feb 2010 08:27 AM 
Hope you do not decide to use plastic wheels. Will cause you additional problems down the road. Will gum up track eventually. Glade the S curves are gone smart move even tho they are cool looking. later RJD 

True but indoor layouts are far easier to keep clean than outdoors, just use a track cleaning car regularley, but the sound of metal wheels against metal rails can get very loud in a small enclosed space. I suggest try both and see what your tolerance level is.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

That is why I like live steam, no track car required, just a broom


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By vsmith on 04 Feb 2010 04:46 PM 
Posted By aceinspp on 04 Feb 2010 08:27 AM 
Hope you do not decide to use plastic wheels. Will cause you additional problems down the road. Will gum up track eventually. Glade the S curves are gone smart move even tho they are cool looking. later RJD 

True but indoor layouts are far easier to keep clean than outdoors, just use a track cleaning car regularley, but the sound of metal wheels against metal rails can get very loud in a small enclosed space. I suggest try both and see what your tolerance level is. 

There's nothing wrong with plastic wheels. They work ok, but just a couple of points here if I might jump in. (1) I use metal wheels exclusively. I'm running indoors and I haven't cleaned my track in about 10 years. I don't even own a track cleaning car or tool. I run a fine sanding block over the rails where I was doing scenery just to clean up glue for example but that's it. For good. (2) I also found the the lower center of gravity offered by heavy metal wheels allows the lead or middle few cars on a long train to negotiate curves, switches and yes, even S curves through switches, easily. I never have derailments.

Yes, the sound can be an issue for some but it's a train after all and they can be pretty noisy in real life. Your enclosed space will probably allow 6 to 8 car trains and they will be operating relatively slowly, say 10 to 30 SMiles, so it might be a good idea to just try metal for a short while and see how it goes. Me? I like the sound and find it just as facinating for visitors as those expensive sound cards I installed in some engines. 
Dave


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One other thing you can try for sound deadening is using non skid rug pad. Comes in a roll at Lowe's and is cheap. It's very thin also. I used it under the Christmas tree layout as I have hard wood floors and it definitely deaden the sound plus the track did not shift. Have all metal wheels on the cars also. Later RJD


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

So, after a week off remodeling someone's HO layout, I'm back at the "G Challenge." Can't see much because I merely screwed down the outer loop track and began under-table wiring. The bridge (behind us in this photo) is wired in and I'm starting to wire blocks. Running the train on a test run showed how much the carpeting absorbs the sound. Looks like we'll be going with 'naked' track for now. The yard area (on the right) will consist of the two sidings with room for buildings. The control panel will have a two cabs for power -- one for each mainline loop -- SPST toggles for block control and two LGB 51750's for switch control. Anyone have to use a 'booster' for operating two crossover switches in unison? That's a new one on me after working with HO.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Get the spike ccrews in there, look at that rail. Trains need to run here. 

Great job so far!


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## Bill4373 (Jan 3, 2008)

If you're not to far along, I would suggest putting down homasote between the plywood and track. Homasote is recycled newspaper, is a gray color, 4 x 8 sheet, 1/2" thick. It would take care of a lot of track noise. Most lumber yards can order it for you.


.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Well, the 'spike crews' have been busy. The track is down and wired to the new control panel block toggles. Another power supply will be coming, then each of the two loops will be powered seperately. Still have the LGB switch machines to wire up. Tested them using the orange box rockers but they only threw in one direction. Have to find out if it's something the way they're wired.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Looks great. Thats a perfect train room. Nothing but your trains. The LGB switch machine wiring is simple, but can be tricky. Sometimes its just a matter of reversing wires.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Still have the LGB switch machines to wire up. Tested them using the orange box rockers but they only threw in one direction. 
did you feed them with DC? 
they need AC input.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Glad to see the crews back at work. Will you also be inchagre of structures? For some reason I got the impression you were contracted to build this for someone else, is that correct? 

Best of luck with wiring the points


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Korm: Using MRC G power fixed 22V outputs. Monday I'll try hooking it up to the power pack that came with his set.

Cape: Yes, I'm the designer/builder. The owner will be looking over layouts for scenery ideas at the Long Beach train show this weekend.


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Cool, I hope makes many wonderful finds


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Monday I'll try hooking it up to the power pack that came with his set 

then hook it to black and white.(AC) 
white directly to the switchmotor, black to your double-throw switch. 
behind the doublethrow switch put two diodes. (one forward, one backwards). join the free ends of the diodes, and connect them to the orange input of the switchmotor.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks, Korm. You were right. We found an old LGB transformer with fixed AC on it and it solved the problem. Everything is working the way it should so I guess I worked myself out of a job. It was a fun trip! Thanks to everyone for your helpful comments. 

Stu


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

This is how it ended up until he gets his second power pack. The additional AC pack is on a shelf under the table top and is wired to the orange control boxes with their rocker toggles. I also discovered that a crossover with 2 switches operating simultaneiously does not require a "booster" as stated in the instructions.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

you might counsel your customer to get a real barstool. (makes it easier to turn around)


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I know this is a dumb question, but on the bridge section for you to walk thru, how does the track come back down and connect? Can you add a pic of this area with track down? This is giving me great ideas as I have a similar over the garage area I plan on using with slopped ceilings too. It is a 12 by 16 plus.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They make lift-out bridge clamps. Hillman and Split Jaw. There is also a kit with a special hinge that allows the rail to swing up a bit before away (better clearance). 

Regards, Greg


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By mickey on 19 Feb 2010 09:30 AM 
I know this is a dumb question, but on the bridge section for you to walk thru, how does the track come back down and connect? Can you add a pic of this area with track down? This is giving me great ideas as I have a similar over the garage area I plan on using with slopped ceilings too. It is a 12 by 16 plus. Good question! Same one I had some time ago. So if you look at the photo you'll see I raised the hinges. The key is that the hinge pin has to be at the rail head height or slightly above or the rails ends mash together instead of separating upon raising. As I lift the right side of the bridge, the track gap on the left widens and then raises up giving good clearance. You can actually lay the bridge down over the left end of the layout with about a 1" gap between the layout and the upside down bridge. The girders keep the tracks from touching when fully opened but a chain or block of wood could also be used. The track on the right end of the bridge I cut on an angle so as the bridge comes down the tracks mate with only a small gap. 

Because there are gaps on both ends of the bridge track, it has to be wired separately to the layout track at the hinged end (I like to solder wires to the bottom of joiners). I used stranded wire for this with a long enough loop to accommodate raising the bridge. To prevent an engine dropping off if the bridge is accidentally left open, I may wire the bridge to shut off power to both sides of the layout within about 3' feet before the bridge opening. That is a bit more complicated but I have the way to do it if you're interested.

The bridge plywood will warp easily because of its small size, especially in damp conditions. I built a frame of 1" x 3"s (see the lower section of the girders) and screwed the bridge ply to the frame to stabilize it and keep it from twisting. Notice, too, that I've screwed the legs to the floor braces for additional stability.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Noise insulation; 
Another material and source; Rubber padding for carpets, about 1/4" and effective. Visit carpet stores and ask for scraps/remnants. Prices are good, sometimes free. Cuts easily with razor blade on wood or scissors.... 

Very nice job you are doing there. 

John


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

That makes more sense. Why the angles cut on your edge strip close to where the hings is mounted? Any specific reason for the functioning of it? Is it possible you can post a couple close up pics with the bridge just stating to open and with it up so I can see what you mean by the gap widens before it lifts up. I am not real clear on that. You mentioned flexing due to plywood. What thickness did your use? Thanks.


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By mickey on 20 Feb 2010 08:25 AM 
That makes more sense. Why the angles cut on your edge strip close to where the hings is mounted? Any specific reason for the functioning of it? Is it possible you can post a couple close up pics with the bridge just stating to open and with it up so I can see what you mean by the gap widens before it lifts up. I am not real clear on that. You mentioned flexing due to plywood. What thickness did your use? Thanks. 
The angles are merely for aesthetics. I started with just the 3/4" x 6" piece under each hinge and then added the longer pieces later when I decided to attach the girders. They're not really needed otherwise. I'm finished with the project so these are the only photos I have. If he calls me back for additional work I'll take more. But it's just the fulcrum action of the hinge that seperates the tracks. You can set up a test hinge and see how it works. I always use 1/2" birch for the layout top but because he had a lot of 3/8" ply (sanded one side) lying around he choose to use that. It's very flexible so it takes a lot of screws to keep it flat and level on the layout.


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Thanks. Nice job by the way...


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## pacbelt (Jul 8, 2008)

What a perfect space! Good job on the track plan too!


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## craftsmaster (Jun 3, 2010)

It seems a good start. Do you mind if I ask what scale are you planning to place on it?

*Each individual has compelling reasons to love model railroading. But beneath these varied reasons are common threads that make it an awesome hobby everyone.*

*The Australian Model Train Guide*


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