# ProLine DCC switch drive



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I have installed three of the ProLine DCC switch drives from Train Li. At first I had some trouble with them, with shorting due to moisture, but Axel made some improvements. I'm very impressed and I'll explain why.

Last January we started construction on an addition to our house. The train layout was almost entirely inaccessibel from January through May, and after that all our attention was focused on landscaping and the interior of the house. I just today--barely in time for Christmas--got the track fixed and leveled and working again (and managed in the process to lose six inches of grade, a good thing indeed).

The ProLine drives have been out there for a full year and a half, unused, in heavy rain, snow, temps in the low single digits and over 100, and with zero effort on my part they are still working perfectly. 



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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Seeing how yours have set for some time you may encounter at some point where the motors fail. This is my biggest problem now. Knowing you live in an area with out much humidity is good however where I'm at I have found moisture in side the cases. I have worked with Axle over the last year and a half making improvements pt the switch machines. Still can not find why the motors fail. I have 14 of these switch machines so far, they are all outdoors. I have also noticed that the switch box will distort in the high temps. Also if you remove the cover you may find that the screw post may be cracking. This is due to to large of screws being used. Hopefully this will get corrected soon as I have notified Axle of this condition. I do run year round so the switches get plemty of use. Later RJD


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

I am a bit confused. I was under the impression that Proline switch machines worked via a servo, while the Masterline machines had the motor inside. I had also read some pieces about the moisture problem having been solved. The reason I mention this is that I am about to embark on the task of converting all of my turnouts from EPL 12010 machines to Masterline switch machines. I am still waiting for the first one to arrive so that I can try one out to see how it performs. 

One issue I have been experiencing with EPL drives is that the points don't move 100% of the way in some cases. I was hoping that the Masterline machines would help solve that problem. I understand that they have a 9mm travel as opposed to the 7mm on the EPL drives.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The servo is a motor that is geared down.In the picture below you see the motor with the blue-ish coating on it... the motor is in there and a gear reduction and a feedback mechanism, I think a pot that feeds back the position.


That pot is in the thick "collar" near the output shaft. If water gets in there, the switch motor goes nuts, because it cannot feed back position information. 











Greg


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Greg, is that not an Aristocraft drive in your photo? I read your posts on them, here, a few weeks back. I have visited your site, which has a wealth of information, and also found infomation on them and the Masterline drives. Most of what you have posted on your site is geared toward the DCC crowd. I use plain old analog. The Masterline switch drives can be operated via EPL 17100 contacts or 51750 orange control boxes. Both of which use AC. This information came directly from Axel Tillmann. That's one of the reasons why I am making the switch from LGB 12010 drives to Masterline drives.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Train-Li stocks the LGB EPL drives, the opened DC/DCC drive pictured by Greg, and the masterline drives. 

You should know that there is a mounting kit available for the master line drive that has a lever/fulcrum added to enhance the throw distance of the switch points. 

Call Axel when he reopens the shop and is available Jan 6th


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Dan. I did know about the mounting kit and ordered it with the Masterline drive. I suspect I was mistaken about Greg's photo above.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

This is the proline drive. It can run on DC or DCC. 

I responded with this because it was the one lownote was talking about. The Masterline are different. 

Actually the site is not "geared" towards DCC per se, but I have a lot more DCC info than wireless R/C control or batteries, since it's what I use. 

What I am trying to do is "fill in" the information that's not out there, like disassembly procedures, tips to improve performance, reliability. 

Thanks for the kind comments. 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Any one else using these out doors. Some problems starting to arise. Later RJD


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Two of mine stopped working. I went out and opened one up, and the servo arm that moves the throwbar was disengaged. I reset it so the servo arm was in the right place, and it seems to be working 


For what it's worth, the inside of the unit was dry, no condensation. There were some spider eggs. I had drilled hole sin the bottom of the unit to prevent condensation build up. Seems to have worked. But why did the servo arm come out of the slot? I think the case warped a bit


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

How about the 2nd one. Have you checked it yet? Yes I have also notice that the cases are warped. Maybe why the servo arm slipped out of the throw rod. Later RJD


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll check it as soon as I can, but work is interfering with RR operations


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