# command performance. Anybody got junker 0-4-0s?



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Kimmee has decided that she wants a THIRD locomotive (I made her that 2-4-0 for xmas, and she's laid claim the baby Climax...) She saw a picture of one in a book, so now she wants a mini mallet! It doesn't look THAT hard, but I'd really rather not have to buy two nice (and $$) locos just to scavenge the drives, cylinders and rods. Aristo, LGB, HLW, Kalamazoo, it doesn't matter just as long as I can find two identical -- and cheap. 

the basic ideer iz sumptin like these:


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I've got an LGB Stainz I might part with if the price is right.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Bruce Chandler on 04/07/2009 7:05 AM
I've got an LGB Stainz I might part with if the price is right. " align="absmiddle" border="0" />

Right for you.... or right for me?







Only thing I have to horsetrade at the moment is a Monogram Mack Bulldog kit, and some REALLY scruffy (used southern Cali scruffy) two foot straights.... Otherwise I guess we'll have to dicker... how about $20?


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

Mik one thing to consider is that the Cherry Creek that you have pictured does NOT have identical power chassis. In fact the rear chassis is OUTSIDE frame while the front is INSIDE. Take a look at the scale drawing











I know you are on the hunt for two identical chassis but you are a creative builder so maybe you could do some thing with two different chassis too. 

BTW the Cherry Creek which is made by Orenstein and Koppel had the rear truck outside frame because it was the only way to fit the fire box. It also had different size cylinders in the front and back because it was a compound. 

Regards,


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Baldwin's versions... Skookum, and her baby sister. I'm probably going to base much of mine on the Little River #148... except narrow gauge (of course), but I'm not sure yet whether it will be a 2-4-4-2 or a never built 2-4-4-0 - no trailing truck would allow it to be shorter for tighter curves. (Plus save me getting a second wheelset, lol)


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## Mikka (Jan 8, 2009)

Allan cash built one out of old big hauler wheels 

also 

if you want suitable sturdy drives purchase 2 hartland blocks


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## itsmcgee (Jan 4, 2008)

I am close to finished with this 2-4-4-2 I made from two aristo 0-4-0 drives. It runs pretty well. This was a pic my freind John took from the test run yesterday.


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## itsmcgee (Jan 4, 2008)

Mik you could also use one powered drive and one dummy. I think that is how Alan Cash did his.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

If I could find two 2017s and a power tender, then it would be 12 wheel drive and could maybe outpull one of those K's that everybody thinks are so grande, hehehe.  

Unfortunately that would cost more than I'm willing to spend


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

still looking. Would prefer a pair of 2017s (metal valve gear Stainz w/ the flat top steam chests).... All I need is everything below the running boards (motor block, wheels, cylinders & rods). Please? Anybody have one or two runners in the $40 range?


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

I've got a 2020 I could let go for that.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I build things as the muse strikes. Bruce's 2020 was sitting on the bench outside the front door this afternoon, so.... 

I butchered it. The entire upper works fell off. I'll probably salvage the directional lighting circuit, and the lights. A visit to the scrapbox yielded probably the last usable parts off the junker B'mann Porter, a pair of steamchests...bye bye funky sloped ones. 









I couldn't resist a mockup. Good thing I have extra 2" pvc pipe. I think the c-16 boiler is gonna be a lil (by about 3") short. 









Still looking for another drive (with the metal rods). I keep getting outbid.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Great, promising start!


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## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Posted By Bruce Chandler on 04/07/2009 7:05 AM
I've got an LGB Stainz I might part with if the price is right. " align="absmiddle" border="0" />

Seeing that there's a demand for Staniz chassis in this thread, allow me to throw my hat in the ring for the third one to pop up (seeing that Mik needs a second). I've got a bash here that could use one (I also have the entire shell off of one that I'd like to get rid of).

-Kurt


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Got an email that the 2017D that I won off ebay will be mailed tomorrow. So the mangling starts early next week. I'm trying to decide whether I'm going to cut down the Aristo c-16 tender shell to fit the power tender brick and have 12wd, or just put trucks under it. Got a nice deal off the Delton parts guy for a couple c-16 boiler shells, so I'll splice those together rather than scratchbuild from pvc. 

Need to come up with a couple domes, yet... I'm thinking copper pipe caps... unless someone has a couple in their scrap box.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Woo Hoo! A kinda overworked, faded looking 2017D arrived in today's mail. It promptly got torn apart..... 

The engine sets (motor blocks) now look like this... A bit of paint and maybe some brake detail to hide the skates, and maybe do something about the European style inserts on the second one: 









And a quick mock-up with 1-1/2 Delton c-16 boilers cut n spliced back together. I'm beginning to think this thing might actually work.: 









Since I want it to be able to negotiate R-2 curves, it's definitely gonna have to be more Meyer than Mallet. Both motor blocks will pivot directly above the second axle. Other people have done it this way, so hopefully it won't look TOO ridiculous.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Progress today! ....Wired the motor blocks together (nice of LGB to provide little brass tabs!). Built the pony truck and mounted it, Started on the 'bridge' that will hold the two bricks together, and also fill the void in the underside of the boiler. Added another inch to the boiler, removed two cast in boiler bands, and built the upper part of the firebox (above the running boards)....then painted the whole thing Hunter Green. Found one big cast iron weight and added it to the boiler. I'll have to trim the other one 
(zinc, I think) to fit. Worked on the smokebox a bit, too. I cut the 2020 headlight down to look like an electric light and mounted a B'mann Annie dynamo behind it. (this isn't a scale model of Skookum, or any other real loco, rather a 'coulda been') Then carved off the pilot rod plates, and mounted an Ozark square number board and cleanouts. 

While I was at it I modified a pair of Ozark Baldwin builders plates so they sorta read 1912 instead of 1872 and painted them. I'll stick those on tomorrow after I see if an LGB smoke unit is gonna fit. A set of smokebox door dogs are ordered and should arrive the end of the week. Since this is Kim's 'dativersary' present (3 years of putting up with my shtuff, and it's what she wanted) I'm going whole hog on this one. 

No pix uploaded, too tired to fool with em now. Maybe in the AM......


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay pix! 

The bridge is the bottom plate from the pile of Delton parts. the rear engine can swivel about 1/4" I know it's now a Meyer not a Mallet, but it looks OK to me, and will run on R-2 without a ridiculous amount of overhang.... 









Domes are pvc pipe caps. Steam lines are styrene pipe and cut down 1/4" copper pipe ells (dang them things is expensive!) 









more later.....


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

A fellow on another board asked for a bill of materials for this project..... So I thought I'd post it here as well. All I can say is, WOW!!! It simply didn't look like I had THAT much tied up in it before I wrote it all out! 

Bill of materials so far: 
1 LGB 2020 (power brick with cylinders, weight, and lights used) 
1 LGB 2017D with power tender (both power bricks, cylinders, and weights used) 
3 Delton c-16 boiler shells 
1 Delton c-16 smokebox 
1 Delton c-16 firebox 
1 Delton c-16 walkway 
1 Delton c-16 cab w/ roof and 'steel' side panels 
1 Delton c-16 bottom plate 
1 Delton c-16 pony truck casting 
1 Aristo c-16 tender shell 
1 Bachmann ten wheeler pilot wheelset 
2 1/4" blind nuts and bolts 
4 1/4" flat washers 
4 1/4" copper solder ells (these things are rather expensive and hard to find) 
1 1" pvc pipe cap 
1 3/4" pvc pipe cap 
1 1/2" pvc pipe cap 
1 Bachmann Annie dynamo 
2 Ozark Baldwin builder's plates modified from 1872 to 1912 
2 Ozark smokebox cleanouts 
4 Ozark boiler steps 
4 Ozark boiler cleanouts 
1 Ozark backhead throttle modified for boiler top mounting 
1 Ozark Johnson Bar 
4 Ozark drifting valves 
6 Ozark loco springs 
8 Ozark loco brake shoes w/ hangers 
8 Ozark handrail stanchions 
1 Ozark loco bell 
1 Ozark domed whistle 
2 Ozark pop valves 
10 Ozark smokebox door dogs 
1 Ozark square number board 
A bunch of basswood and Plastruct


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Back at the start of this thread I showed a pic of an Alco Mallet in New Zealand with a 4 wheel tender. 









When I bought the second Stainz (2017D) the power tender came with it. I also had a c-16 tender shell looking for a home. Sooooooo. 









And with a slightly modified, but standard sized Bug Mauler tender for comparison. 









It still needs the socket to connect it to the loco, a brake wheel, rear steps, coal and half a zillion other little details (plus another coat of black, I ran out).... but not bad for an afternoon's work. I may decide to build a larger tender at a later date. If I do I'll just put this one behind my other 2017. 

After I finished testing the tender to make sure that I had wired the backup light correctly (I had, yay me!), I decided to stick the mallet chassis on my daughter's r-1 circle, just for giggles. The flanges squeeked a little, and it looked rather goofy, but IT RAN!!!!


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay, I admit it... I've been lazy this past week or two and not gotten very much done on this beast. I DO have SOME progress to show, though. 

Pic one: For some reason there doesn't seem to be any compound air pumps of the proper size on the market... So I'm trying to mate an LGB one to a metal B'mann one -- with mixed results. It may have to DO, but I'm not really happy with it yet. On the same note, does anybody sell injectors besides Trackside Details? 









Pic two: Some chassis details, the rear springs are Ozark, as is the brake stuff. The front are Delton c-16 ones. The brass strap will hold the front of the truck from drooping when the loco is picked up, yet still allow it to swing. Not very elegant, but inexpensive and simple... hopefully it won't be TOO noticeable once it's painted.... Yes, I need to add the reverser rigging yet. 









Pic three: A face only a mother could love? The cowcatcher and tread plate are off that battery junker I used the chassis to build my faux Falk from (try to say that three times fast). The rectangular D&RGW number board, the door dogs, the cleanouts, the mostly hidden drifting valves, and the link 'n pin coupler bracket are all Ozark pieces. The toolbox is Aristo. The rest is mostly basswood and styrene. 









Side view, the boiler isn't fastened down yet, since I'm not done with the chassis details, and need to fit the boiler weights and wire everything. But I thought I'd let you more or less see how the monstrosity will look....


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Mik,

Your loco is looking good, nice work. What type of a tender are you going to make for it?

Chuck


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By chuckger on 06/29/2009 7:08 AM
Hi Mik,

Your loco is looking good, nice work. What type of a tender are you going to make for it?

Chuck


Chuck, It's on the previous page. I bashed the power tender with a wood deck and a shortened c-16 shell. 12 wheel drive!









I may make a larger one down the road, but for those who will insist that it's 'too small' -- This is the tender behind an Alco 2-4-4-2 in New Zealand


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