# A New “Twist” for Uncoupling Kadees



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Occasionally, we run operations on the T&LB. When we do, it is nice to be able to easily uncouple the Kadees without having to lift the trucks.

One way to accomplish this is to insert a flat blade screwdriver between the knuckles and give it a “twist.” This works OK once you find the right sized screwdriver and get used to the technique, but still requires a fair amount of stooping and is not always so easy to get the screwdriver in place.

I knew there had to be an easier way to accomplish this without all the bending/stooping or the need for the proper “twist technique.”

A piece of 1/4” wide by 1/32” thick brass rod fits almost perfectly between the knuckles and with a little contouring, will drop down with an easy push. The 90-degree twist in the brass will push the knuckles apart as the rod drops down and then it is merely a matter of pulling the two railcars apart. It is important to note that the twist MUST be in the counterclockwise direction to properly engage the knuckles.

When I initially tried to twist the brass rod, I put the end in the vice and tried to twist it using pliers. But the brass is not malleable enough and the twist would be over too small a span and I never did reach anywhere near 90 degrees before the brass started to “tear.” The remedy was to heat the brass using a propane torch prior to/while twisting it.

The next step is to obtain the telescoping rods. Harbor Freight sells some with a rubber handle that go out to 29-1/2”. I should be able to unscrew the magnet and find a brass slot head screw of the same thread. Then I can just cut the twist section from the brass rod and solder it into the slot head and have telescoping uncoupling wands.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Solder some tubing on the other end, will be easier to twist. 
John


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 15 Aug 2012 01:24 PM 
Solder some tubing on the other end, will be easier to twist. 
John 

I think he means that you don't have to manually twist the tool... just the act of sliding it between the couplers will force them apart... otherwise there would be no need for the 1/4 twist in the tool at all.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Oh! picture the blushing smilely.....







yeah that one! 
John


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I shoulda taken a pic... we use a similar device on my dad's railroad, only it's a long bamboo garden stake with a brass blade inserted in the end. They're about 3' long, so you don't need to bend over and can also use them to throw the switches. The end of the blade is rounded so it's easier to insert it between the knuckles when holding it by the other end of the stake. 

Later, 

K


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I always used a flat head screw driver. Later RJD


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Great idea. I'll be making one of those as soon as I can. Thanks for sharing. 

Robert


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By East Broad Top on 16 Aug 2012 06:57 PM 
I shoulda taken a pic... we use a similar device on my dad's railroad, only it's a long bamboo garden stake with a brass blade inserted in the end. They're about 3' long, so you don't need to bend over and can also use them to throw the switches. The end of the blade is rounded so it's easier to insert it between the knuckles when holding it by the other end of the stake. 

Later, 

K 

GMTA! 
Did Jim include the twist in the brass or did he insert the brass as a straight strip and twist the pole?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

No twist at the end, just twist the pole. I'll have to suggest the twist on the blade. 

Later, 

K


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## jaug (Oct 18, 2011)

Why not just slide a Kadee permanent magnet under the couplers and let them uncouple as they were made to. You could attach the magnet to an "L" shaped piece of flat stock, but the only draw back is that it would require raising the trip pins on the couplers a bit, but if your are not using any Kadee track installed uncouplers anyway the pin height is a mute point, and you could even take advantage of the Delayed Uncoupling feature also. Just a thought


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Why not just slide a Kadee permanent magnet under the couplers and let them uncouple as they were made to. 
Too limiting. You must uncouple at the same spot, then back up, push back together to use the pushing action, etc. With something like this, you spot the car wherever you need to, and just uncouple it there. Much less unnecessary movement. That's one thing I could never get used to when I used to operate on a friend's HO railroad. I always used manual uncoupling on my Kadees, he used magnets. I could switch out an industry much quicker using the manual tools. 

Later, 

K


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## jaug (Oct 18, 2011)

No E B T you misunderstood my suggestion, it was not to install a magnet permanently in between the rails but to mount a magnet on an "L" shaped piece of flat stock, it would work just like the portable twist tool, you take the magnet where ever you need to uncouple a car and slide it under the couplers between the 2 cars.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Ah, got it. At one point, I tried making a "G scale" version of the HO-scale Rix magnetic uncouplers I used--which was essentially an "h" shaped thing that sat over the couplers, with magnets on each of the "legs" of the "h". It works great in HO scale, but I couldn't get magnets strong enough to work in large scale. Maybe now with some rare-earth magnets might do it now. 

As far as slipping something unerneath, you may be able to get something going with the rare-earth magnets again, but the trick will be sliding it under the pins without the magnets sticking to them as you do so. The trip pins are 1/8" above the railhead, which isn't a lot of wiggle room. 

Later, 

K


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By jaug on 17 Aug 2012 08:40 PM 
Why not just slide a Kadee permanent magnet under the couplers and let them uncouple as they were made to. You could attach the magnet to an "L" shaped piece of flat stock, but the only draw back is that it would require raising the trip pins on the couplers a bit, but if your are not using any Kadee track installed uncouplers anyway the pin height is a mute point, and you could even take advantage of the Delayed Uncoupling feature also. Just a thought 



Been there, tried that..., didn't work.

When you try to slip the magnet on a "flat hocky stick" under the couplers, you continually snag the pin while trying to get the magnet(s) under. Then when you try to pull it away it again snags.

I still have it and may use it for testing/tripping reed switches around the layout.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I've finished the first one of three

The magnetic extension rods were obtained from Harbor Freight for $5 each. The brass screw is a #12 slothead wood screw and is 1-1/2" long.

After the magnet is removed from the end of the rod, held by a friction fit and CA, the screw is the perfect size to provide a nice tight fit within the tube.

I used a K&B tube flare tool to hold the rod while removing the magnet and inserting the screw.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

J'aime ca! Next time I'm at HF, I think I'll get what I need to build me one of these. I'm still about 50% Kadee on my own railroad (mix of Kadee and Accucraft 1:32 couplers). 

Later, 

K


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks guys.

I've now found that if you precut the brass to ~1-1/4" long, you can stick it 1/4" into the vice and grab it with a pair of vice grips 1/4" from the top and add the twist without the need to heat the brass, that ultimately softens it a bit.

One more thing. The brass needs to twist in a counterclockwise direction. However, when you put the strip in the vice and twist it, you need to consider that you are working upside down and will need to add the twist with a clockwise motion of the vice grips. Found this out the hard way.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

No, no, no, no, no... you found that out after extensive research on the subject.  

Later, 

K


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

There will be three very happy operators next month.


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