# Control Panel examples...



## eroc731 (Aug 4, 2010)

Greetings gang!
Okay NOT to re-start the "great debate" here please understand I am using track power...its what I now own and will start with it to run my railroad...THAT SAID.....
I have acquired an Arsito Train Master controller/setup but also have a practically brand new MRC AG990 as well.

I am looking for photos and or advice on examples of how to set up a "control center" that will withstand weather but also allow for quick disconnects if need be to "winterize" if needed...
I am ultimately looking for something that will allow for AC control of accessories... DC for the track and how others who use TRACK power have set up their "control/power centers"....

I have access to an existing outdoor receptacle on my deck that can provide the main power supply either permanently or through exterior rated extension cord (to start)....
Right now I'm pretty "rube -goldberged" just get something running to test track alignments and power continuity....

As always your assisatnce is greatly appreciated!
Evan


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you just want to cover something, you can do what I did, an inverted catch basin, cheap, lasts forever. Not great looking, but not bad either.

I used the grate that would be on the top, for the bottom, that gives access and organization for the wires. I added some finer screen to keep critters out.

















Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The answer really depends upon what part of the country you call home. When I lived in Denver, I could leave my power supplies out year round, under a suitable cover. There was never enough condensation to cause any rust or corrosion. But here in the humid east, northern Virginia, I do not leave them out for extended periods of time. I cover them with an inverted plastic tub if rain is expected. Even doing that I see signs of rust on some of the steel parts.

I have heard that some use a light bulb in the enclosure with the electronics. This may provide enough heat to keep the components dry. 


Chuck N 


I just have the power cord from the house, and the two leads to the track to plug in when I go out to run. All of my switch throws are manual and are all on one side of the layout near the power supply. In Denver I used EPL (LGB) electric switch motors, but here there are no automatic switches. Electric switch motors were too much maintenance here. They kept filling with mud and ants, and the metal parts rusted. I had none of those problems in the dryer climate of the west.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Some palce I remember seeing some one re-cycling an older Gas Grill body and stand to store the "stuff" in. I alwys thought that "might" be a neat idea. However most Gas grills I've seen are pretty beat up once they get to the point of being tossed out. 

Chas


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They also have a number of oddly-shaped holes underneath that might be more work to screen/cover over. 

Regards, Greg


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

I have heard that some use a light bulb in the enclosure with the electronics. This may provide enough heat to keep the components dry. 
That's a pretty good bet. At the rod & gun club where I shoot trap, they keep a light bulb lit in each trap house to ward off the spiders and mice that otherwise would love to set up home there. Just be careful with the bulb size - it doesn't take much power (wattage) in a small confined space to raise the temperature.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I have mine on a secretary table that I roll into the garage when not in use. I added a shelf to house the three power supplies and controllers to allow for three independant "cabs." I also have A/C for the turnouts and accessories and to power the automation system. To avoid confusion, the three power supplies plug into the control panel with 1/4" phono connectors while the A/C uses an amphenol microphone connector. There is a power strip for all the supplies/accessories and I just plug in the 120 volt extension cord to my outlet by the door. The panel connects to the track through two cables each with a 24-pin Cannonl connector at a junction box. 

We run 23 regular blocks and a few "X-blocks" and 21 LGB turnout motors and there are three reversing units with selectable time delays built right into the control panel. Some blocks have slow/kill switches so that an engine may be parked without taking the control away from the operator for another engine. There is also a diode matrix to throw various combinations of turnouts to select different routes, as well as default positions. Other features include a digital voltmeter that is selectable to any of the three cabs. Also the three cabs can be stopped or revesred right at the panel over-riding the three TEs, and each cab has a red/green LED that tells the ultimate direction of the current at the track and provides a relative value by its brightness.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a plastic cabinet That I got from Home Depot and install all my electronics it it. I also installed a 25 watt bulb to keep moisture out and also keep things warm during the winter. My stuff has been in this unit for 6 years now with no problems.



















If you look closely you can see the bulb. Later RJD


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## eroc731 (Aug 4, 2010)

Great ideas! To clarify I'm outside Philly...so two 20+" snow storms this past winter tells me weather is an issue and that taking the power supply inside when not in use for long periods is probably a good idea....love the light bulb trick....never would have thought of that! 

Thanks 
Evan


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW Starting to look like my TV, cable box , VCR, DVR, Surround sound, Blu-ray setup!!!! 

Makes my computer setup look neat and compact!!!


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

OK mine is much simpler setup than what I see here but it is kid friendly and less intimidating to new onlookers. I do have future plans to switch to DCC when I am able to save up some cash. The whole cabinet only weighs about 10 pounds and easy to carry as you do not have to bend over to pick up. It stands 36 inches tall and water proof so if it does get stuck in the rain it is safe. I put it in my shed when I am not using it anyway.


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## Morgar (Mar 1, 2010)

I'm looking for ideas for an outdoor control panel. What has everyone else done? Photos would be extemely helpful! 

Best regards, 
Michael O'Brien


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## LogSkidder01 (Jul 30, 2009)

We have four loops at the Children's Museum of Oak Ridge necessitating multiple supplies and four controllers. And for security reasons we have to store the controllers when not in use. We opted to install the power supplies and controllers in a Stanley FatMax® 28" Structural Foam Water Resistant Toolbox. The 24 VDC switching power supplies are installed in the bottom of the box and the controllers are mounted on an aluminum shelf. A mains power receptacle and power switch / circuit breaker are also installed in the shelf. For storage the power cord and track feed wires wrap up in the upper section with the controllers. All track feeder connections are made using 30 Amp, Anderson PowerPole connectors which allow for ease of setup and breakdown. In addition I installed four Arsito Revolution receivers in a box which can be installed in place of the controllers allowing for remote control of all loops.

 


It takes less than a minute to setup or breakdown the box. Once closed and latched the box is easily transported.

We have also constructed a single channel power pack installed in a smaller tool box for testing and road shows.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Gary Wollard "The Railroad Hobo" had taken and posted the most recent pics of ours but the myLargescale search feature doesn't come up with anything from Gary, let alone our pics.









An old pic:


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

Here are a couple of extra ideas, in particular well suited for your area. It all depends on the size of your layout ad how many (if any) switches you need to control:

1. Smaller implementation
Buy a decent size portable tool box from Home depot. In the back you mount you interconnect plug-ins. In the top you can actually wire up DPDT switches with LED indicators (for some switch control). I have mounted my PowerSource and in my case command station (in yours the Aristo receiver) into the base of the toolbox. for that purchase I took a 1/4" plywood and screwed it tot he toolbox bottom for more rigid support. Then I mounted the power source (in my case the right transformer) and the control system onto that floor and the put the input output wires to the back of the system. When I open the lid, I can fit into the top tray the handheld. Done. When I go to the layout I just carry the toolbox to the central feeder point where I have also 120V outlet on a post (in the middle of the garden).1 minute to hook up, 1 minute to tear down.

2. Large scale implementation
By a simple tool cart with two doors in the bottom. Potentially replace the wheels with 4"-6" wheels (E.g. Harborfreight) unless you have a very smooth surface on the outside. In the bottom you mount the power and control station. In the drawers you can have tools, and If your unit has a top you can have your control panel (e.g. DPDT switch control with LEDs).

1 minute to hook up, 1 minute to tear down. No weight to carry, just roll it into a nice place of the garage.









Of course you can also custom build this out of MDF/Plywood which will even look much nicer!!!!







In that case I would use a 2 x 2 frame construction, 1" plywood in the bottom for the wheel support. Left and right side Pegboard for things to hang, doors and bag side 1/2" Plywood or MDF, 1,2,3... drawers and then a slanted top to glue on the layout plan and possibly the DPDT switches. Actually I am flalling in love with the later solution modified for my layout:

On top notebook terminal for train automation control, bottom for the entire power hook up and RF receiver, 2 tool drawers, two supply drawers and maybe a little ambrella holder for shade to the notebook







. I would be able to consolidate my tool cart with my toolbox.


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## Morgar (Mar 1, 2010)

Hi, 
Referring to the pictures with the rolling cart and the gray power box, what do you call the "connectors, plugs" on the gray box that allow you to hook up the black wires to the gray box? I assume that they are connectors where they can be removed and the cart stored inside?? I think I may have to go to an electical supply. But I need to know what to ask for. 

Best regards, 
Michael O'Brien


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Morgar on 10 Sep 2010 10:59 AM 
Hi, 
Referring to the pictures with the rolling cart and the gray power box, what do you call the "connectors, plugs" on the gray box that allow you to hook up the black wires to the gray box? I assume that they are connectors where they can be removed and the cart stored inside?? I think I may have to go to an electical supply. But I need to know what to ask for. 

Best regards, 
Michael O'Brien They are Mil Spec 24-pin Cannon connectors. I believe that amphenol makes similar connectors. For reference, here's a link to a similar 19-pin connector on the 'bay, as well as a supplier for these connectors. I would not expect to find these in an electronics store unless it was a big surplus house (where I got mine back in '97), and the bay may be your best bet at this point in time.

To install/remove, you simply push/pull the male into the female and screw the ring on/off. I leave the ends on the control panel screwed in and simply coil the two 25-foot umbilical cords and lay them on top when not in use. The umbilicals let me move the cart around the patio for best viewing, take advantage of the shade, etc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mil-Spec-ITT-CA...5d29e7ffd1


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

I've seen the tool box approach used before, it works well IF you make sure that water puddling in the handle depression (if it has one) won't leak inside eventually. There are tool boxes made with a sloped top that acts more like a roof.

I had a cabinet on the back of my house handy, I put all the stuff on the door.

Control Panels


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