# Mild Steel (Bar-stock) Track - operational test track (photos)



## Craig C (Mar 21, 2018)

Got my test track of home-built steel track put together. This is mild-steel flat-bar
with welded ties, painted black. Costs less than fifty-cents per foot to built (not including paint!).

short video of running train:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/run_short.mkv

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/short_run_small.mkv


EDIT: the switcher has a old TE "Basic" installed, the Romex jacket holds the antenna up to give me range behind 8 inches.

Straight section of track:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/10ft_straight.jpg

small:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/10ft_straight_sm.jpg

12.5 diameter curve:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve1.jpg
http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve2.jpg
http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve3.jpg

small files:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve1_sm.jpg
http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve2_sm.jpg
http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/12.5_dia_curve3_sm.jpg

As a temporary solution for this temporary track, I'm using these sliding window sash locks as joiners... they're not pretty but they work. I may use these on switches on the final layout, but everywhere else I anticipate continuous welded rail &/or fish-plates at joints.

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/temporary_joiners.jpg

small:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/temporary_joiners_sm.jpg

First attempt at a set of points was not good (was "bent"), but I was able to save it. This is switch #0 AFTER remedial work (some bend is still evident):

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/Points_set0.jpg

small:
http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/Points_set0_sm.jpg


The second set came out much better, but future sets will include the "angle-iron" piece for the straight side that I used to straighten messed up switch #0:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/Points_set1.jpg

small:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/Points_set1_sm.jpg



This is a detail shot of points #1. Spring holds points in the "normal"/straight position. For now I just move the points with my finger (the wing-nut provides a means to add tension so the points stay set).

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/points_detail.jpg

small:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/points_detail_sm.jpg

Eventually I will go with air actuators for remote operation. Here is a dual-action (throw) 30mm stroke air actuator I got off of ebay for $3. I may stay with the dual-action type & use an external spring as I have heard that with some of the single action pistons, their internal spring can rust out over time. The external spring is easy & cheap to replace.

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/3_dollar_air_actuator.jpg

small:

http://www.vintage-art-and-posters.com/RR/3_dollar_air_actuator_sm.jpg

Curve track was made using a harbor-freight "ring-roller". It's kind of overkill, but it does work. I had a hard time getting my 10-foot sections of rail to make an accurate 90-degree turn, but 3 came out great, one required a lot of help to get it close enough to close the oval test track.

Edit: small files added.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I would like to see what you are doing but it takes 2 1/2 minutes to download 1 photo. Can you reduce the size so us slow pokes can see your work? Thanks


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## Craig C (Mar 21, 2018)

placitassteam said:


> I would like to see what you are doing but it takes 2 1/2 minutes to download 1 photo. Can you reduce the size so us slow pokes can see your work? Thanks



Absolutely. Apologies. Added small files & links to them in the original post.

Forum software kind fought me on the new links.. might need to refresh if the new links seem to still go to the large files. Had to re-edit & type everything in manually (& then correct my typos).


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig,Thanks for the small files, that makes life easier. Are you going to have some kind ties between the welded ones? Your switches look good. What kind of welder are you using? I have a wire welder and can't make welds that look that good. I'm going to have a look at those sash locks. If they are not too expensive I may have to get some to help putting our portable steam track together for public shows. Right now we use slip joiners and rubber bands. We are lucky to have the rubber bands last 2 days in the New Mexico sun.


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## Craig C (Mar 21, 2018)

placitassteam said:


> Craig,Thanks for the small files, that makes life easier. Are you going to have some kind ties between the welded ones? Your switches look good. What kind of welder are you using? I have a wire welder and can't make welds that look that good. I'm going to have a look at those sash locks. If they are not too expensive I may have to get some to help putting our portable steam track together for public shows. Right now we use slip joiners and rubber bands. We are lucky to have the rubber bands last 2 days in the New Mexico sun.


Winn:

I'm using THE cheapest harbor freight welder, their flux-core wire 125. My welds don't look very good either, I assure you, grinding & black paint help a lot. Originally that was the main reason for the paint.. to protect (& hide) the welds. I never welded before I bought the HF unit about a month ago, just for this project. Still learning.

re: more ties. The track doesn't really need more ties (it's very solid as is), but I anticipate adding more at my two "station" areas, just to have some photo-ready spots. That may change though, as once the track is down & ballasted, I doubt anyone but Model RR's & foamers will really notice/care.

Those window locks can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714BPVGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are $12 for 10, so not SUPER economical. I had to cut the back side (side without the wingnuts) down about 1/4" or better to make sure the flanges on passing trains don't hit them. I'm not sure that they will fit over the foot of 332 rail, but I can check if you like.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the info, I'll check them out. I took a welding class many years ago and the most helpful tip I got was to start the arc until you see a puddle form then as you move always keep the puddle going. Also if you haven't got one, get a self dimming helmet. It lets you have both hands free and you don't have problems with the stinger getting out of position while getting the helmet down. You can get one at Harbor freight for about $50, well worth it.


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