# Piko switch electrical issues?



## Michael L (Mar 18, 2014)

Hi guys,

I've got a two month old piko turnout that is on a raised wooden track bed that recently had an electrical failure. The connections to the wires contained underneath that connect the two sides of the switch had corroded to the point that they heated up and melted the plastic. I was lucky I noticed my train speed getting slower and slower until it stopped. After some trouble shooting I found a high level of resistance in the switch and then discovered the corroded wires. After a quick cleaning and reassembly it runs fine now. Anyone else has this problem? And what are some potential solutions? Could the little plastic pocket that acts as a dust cover be filled with silicone?....just regular inspection? (The switch was only two months old). Has anyone replaced these little wires with something heavier? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers
Mike


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

I have two R5's that have been on the ground for about a year and one R7 for about a half year with no problems. Guess I should take a look underneath.
I wouldn't think you would have a corrosion problem on a raised wooden bed. Maybe the track was sprayed with bug or weed killer that reacted with the connectors? Or was the wood pressure treated? They are known to have some bad chemicals in them. Otherwise just a bad prodution run.
Steve


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I have had two Piko R5s on the ground for well over a year with no issues. I just installed three more for my staging yard area. Of course, I do install jumpers from one end of the switch to the other as a failsafe.


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## ntpntpntp (Jan 14, 2008)

Problems with the wiring under Piko switches have been known about by users in the UK and Europe since 2011 - not long after Piko released them. It was discussed on the gscalecentral forum and it was reported to Piko. Corroded screws, under-gauge wire and/or poor insulation that melted and shorted out.

A friend bought one, we examined it and could see that it wasn't going to last long. He replaced the wiring and screws.

I've not read of any recent problems until this post, so maybe Piko have made changes and your problem switch was old stock?

Nick (in the UK)


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Easiest fix is to solder an exterior jumper wire from the live rail to the culprit rail. You don't even need to remove the track.

Simply scratch away at the brass with a small screwdriver to get a nice shiny spot as far from the plastic as feasible.

Place a wet/damp rag over the plastic areas at the brass to keep it from melting.

Select a length of wire to span distance. Have the ends stripped and tinned (ready to go). I use a Weller 325 watt gun to solder the wire right to the brass. For a turnout, use flexible wire and leave a bit of slack to account for movement of the points.

Coat the tip of the gun with solder and place the tip of the gun at the shiny spot. Touch the solder to the shiny spot and, to avoid a "cold" solder joint, do not add the wire until the solder "flows" on the brass. You want to get "in and out" fast to avoid melting the base where the point pivot.


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## Michael L (Mar 18, 2014)

Thanks for all the advice. It seems the most logical solution is to solder on some jumper wires under the road bed and avoid any future problems.m my switches are connected using split jaws so they are easy to remove. On a second note...does anyone take them indoors for the winter?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael:

When I lived in Colorado and now in Virginia, I left the track and switches out all year. I ran year round too.

In Ontario, the snow may be to deep for winter running, but on a nice day it is fun to run. I used a rotary when the conditions were right, when not I used a plastic shovel to clear the track. A metal shovel scratched the track and might do some damage to items near the track.

Rotary in Colorado.










removing snow in Virginia.










Winter running in Virginia.











Chuck


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