# Plastic track



## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

I have a new shed (part of a mancave system) that measures 14' x 20' that I can put a layout in.
It will be predominantly used for storage tracks with lines running through a roller door to an outside elevated track.
Because it will be under cover I am considering plastic track mainly because it is cheaper than brass and will not be subject to weathering.
Anybody had any experience with using plastic track?
I know Train-Li have it but was wondering if there are other suppliers that I could compare prices with noting I am in Australia and freight will be the killer.
If the total price + freight is more than I can buy brass from my local supplier then I will use brass.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Also if I could be pointed in the direction of some track plans for the space that would be appreciated as well, ideally one that lets me run trains indoors when it is raining (I am in a heavy rainfall semi tropical area).


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I have no information on plastic track. Indoors, aluminum would be fine. For storage I would just use grooves in the shelves. If you are battery powered you can drive the trains on to the grooved shelves. If you run indoors a lot, I would question how well the plastic would stand up.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Not many manufacturers in Australia making plastic track.

The Train-Li track has worked well for indoor storage tracks, and some people have tried it outside, but if I remember correctly either the ties or the track did not have UV protection.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, it is some colors of ties that are not protected. When contacting Trainli ask about UV and track length.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So Dan, is the rail itself all UV treated?

Looks like it is available in only one color.

Greg


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## Batsco (Mar 30, 2011)

placitassteam said:


> I have no information on plastic track. Indoors, aluminum would be fine. For storage I would just use grooves in the shelves. If you are battery powered you can drive the trains on to the grooved shelves. If you run indoors a lot, I would question how well the plastic would stand up.


A friend has suggested I just use grooved plywood as I have battery powered locos. He also suggested I build my storage area with a sector plate or two (one each end).

Another suggestion is aluminum bar embedded in plywood.

These seem to be the possible solutions that I will explore.

Thanks all


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Trainli plastic rail is available in only one color and is code 332. It is advertised as storage track. Ask about the UV protection, I do not remember if it is. Note I have seen a comment in the past that wood grooves do work, but has more friction for the wheels than metal rail.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Also, the grooves place the car closer to the surface, so if you have Kadees for example, they will be skimming the surface of the wood if they are not perfectly set up.

The rails give you clearance you don't realize you "like" until you groove your wood. I have storage cabinets with grooves for the flanges and if I don't put long cars in perfectly level, I scrape the "glad hands"..

I realize this is a very specific case, but it is an example of something you don't realize until you are "there".

Greg - 276


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## simonov (Feb 7, 2018)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Also, the grooves place the car closer to the surface, so if you have Kadees for example, they will be skimming the surface of the wood if they are not perfectly set up.
> 
> The rails give you clearance you don't realize you "like" until you groove your wood. I have storage cabinets with grooves for the flanges and if I don't put long cars in perfectly level, I scrape the "glad hands"..


That's very interesting. It suggests that if someone were to use a router to groove their wood shelving for wheel flanges, they should also take the extra step of routing a wider groove between the flange grooves. Not a big deal if you are using a router; a bit more complicated on the table saw.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

simonov said:


> That's very interesting. It suggests that if someone were to use a router to groove their wood shelving for wheel flanges, they should also take the extra step of routing a wider groove between the flange grooves. Not a big deal if you are using a router; a bit more complicated on the table saw.


 Just cut a 1.75 inch wide dado.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Was not saying you need a center groove, it just means that if you have couplers like Kadees, you will notice if they are hanging too low.

No, not recommending center groove, just to be aware that the method points out if you have this issue with your couplers.

But you do bring something to mind. Many G scale locos are undergauge, or have overly thick flanges. That will mean that you need to make the grooves a bit wider to accommodate this. Be sure to check this out.

I've regauged all my rolling stock for proper back to back and thinned down any "monster flanges" so I stacked 2 saw blades next to each other and got a wider groove. 

Removing all the material to create a 1.75" wide dado over 1/8" deep is a lot of work!

Greg


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Well you want to go deeper than 1/8 inch for the space between "rails", but if you don't have a table saw and a 1" dado blade set, and a guide fence system that can handle making long cuts in a surface, then how about cutting any material thick enough to handle the depth of your car flanges and cut strips as wide as you want to space your tracks and nail them down on a substrate in parallel 1.75" apart. The right side of the left piece becomes the left rail and the left side of the right piece becomes the right rail, The right side of the right strip becomes the left rail of the next track to the right and so on for the number of tracks you want to make, with one last piece on the right to make the right rail. Fast, and if you can get boards of the thickness and width you want, you don't even need a saw!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want the raised type of system, cut a single strip of a width slightly under the back to back spec, a lot easier than 2 strips that must be gauged.

Thin wood is cheap.

Greg


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

That will guide the cars, but makes them roll on the flanges (not the tread) which could damage the flanges or cut grooves in the base. You also have a greater chance of "derailing" with the flanges climbing the interior "rails". Make this interior strip tall enough to prevent flanges climbing it, and you are back to the problem of car parts that hang down in the gauge.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, upon reflection, you are correct. I've seen people do it, but only with thin wood. Not much chance of damaging flanges, and most people could give 2 hoots about the base, since wherever the rolling surface winds up, it will get blackened and eventually wear.

But if you do indeed use thin wood to avoid hangups, then it is indeed easier to have the wheels climb over it. Also curves would have to be pre-cut.

Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing to remember about using plastic track it is very slick will. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That is for sure, remember when J.C. tried it on his layout outside on a grade? Too slippery, especially if there was moisture.

(Did you notice Jerry Barnes is moving out near J.C. and will probably join the same club?)

Greg


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I Guess I am confused about all this talk of things dragging if there is no space between the rails. Anything hanging below the rail heads would foul the switches or crossovers.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

placitassteam said:


> I Guess I am confused about all this talk of things dragging if there is no space between the rails. Anything hanging below the rail heads would foul the switches or crossovers.


They sure do! Had one very spectacular "derailment" in HO one time. A particular car would often make a clicking sound as it passed over a switch, but we all assumed it was just the wheels passing over the frog... but we now surmise that car was always running with a particular end of the car facing forward so the sound was the uncoupling tang hanging down hitting the switch rail on the tail end of the car... but one time it got put on the train with the ends reversed... highballing the line catapulted that car into the air and it came down ahead of the train and the engines collided with it. Sure wish I had a video of it! But alas, video recorders were not in the hands of consumers at that date!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep truck mounted kadees often do this


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Decide the space between the tracks, and cut 3-4 in strips. That way the wheels ride on their treads and couplers clear.

====!——!====!——!====!——!====

Where the = is base plus door skin or 1/4” plywood for the space between the tracks. The !——! Is the inside flange to flange track width.

Ripping 3” wide strips is way easier than cutting a 1.75” dado.

My 2c


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Very much agreed, the dado is the hardest and most time consuming.

Of course we are all speculating on how many tracks adjacent to each other and no mention of curves.

Greg


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