# 2-6-6-2 Chuff Trigger Help



## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I am trying to use the chuff trigger in the pistons of the Bachmann 2-6-6-2, and can't seem to find answers to my questions.
So could someone please help or suggesta viable solution?
 
Do you just solder the reed switch wires to the pads on the board either to the right or left pads with the associated common?
 
Do you also have to attach a 6V battery to the board to use the optical chuff sensors, making it chuff..OR do you even need the battery...will it work without it?
 
Voltage is not a good way to get dependable chuff from this loco, as when you add a load the chuff charisterics change quite considerably!
 
I have looked again and again to mount a reed switch to the motor block and because of the side to side movement and the very small rollers for the power pickups leave NO option to mount a magnet on either the drivers OR the lead or trailing wheels.
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks
 
Bubba


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*RE: 2-6-6-6-2 Chuff Trigger Help*

Bubba, it all depends on the sound card you want to use, and how you want to use it. Let's start here. 

Also you track power or battery? 

Regards, Greg


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

*RE: 2-6-6-6-2 Chuff Trigger Help*

Sorry...I take the basics for granted.

I only use/have Phoenix..in the 2-6-6-2..Airwire and P-5. I turned to the darkside 4 years ago..battery power.

I want to hook up the reed wires from the P-5 to the board via the solder pads on the 2-6-6-2 board.

Help?

Bubba


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, the new chuff "triggers" on the 2-6-6-2 should work fine with your Phoenix. I understand that there are 2 chuff "outputs" from the 2-6-6-2, and you may have to put a diode to isolate them if you want both. I would try just connecting one to the P5 and make sure that is working. They are apparently "active high". 

I think if you put a diode on each one then you can connect both together and get "both" "chuffs".... Tony W knows all of this, and I hope he comes over to this thread. 

Regards, Greg


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Correction- 
The "chuff" triggers are NOT in the cylinders, rather in a black plastic "drum" around each motor block's #1 axle, soldered to a board. 
There is a way to gut this stuff out and use reeds and magnets, not hard, and necessary if you gut the Ames Stup.....errrr......Super Socket for battery placement and such.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I do not want to gut ecverything out only use what is inherant there..I am not going to use a diode as I wouyld need a diagram to follow...what I do want to do is use the double chuff on the Phoenix board..which is OK with me.

Now do I need the battery?

Thanks

Bubba


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

You feed the power from your traction batteries into the Super Socket which provides regulated power for the optics. 
So, yes, you need a battery, and no, you don't need the sound system battery. 

You're making this a lot harder than it is. 

Stanley made it very simple plug-and-pray.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Curmudgeon on 05/15/2009 12:42 PM
You feed the power from your traction batteries into the Super Socket which provides regulated power for the optics. 
So, yes, you need a battery, and no, you don't need the sound system battery. 

You're making this a lot harder than it is. 

Stanley made it very simple plug-and-pray.
Sorry to be so thick...the paper work that came with the engine states to use a 6V battery plugged into the pins on the board for the chuff sensor......this is the battery I do not need?
I feed power into the board via the 18volt battery that powers the engine...this will feed the power needed to power the optical sensors? Correct?

Thanks Bubba


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

As I understand it, the 6 volt battery is for use with regular DC track operation. The Bachmann electronics requires that much voltage to work at low speed. 

For battery R/C the traction batteries power the Bachmann electronics so the extra 6 volt battery is not needed. 

For my recent RCS installation I simply connected the two P5 triggers to the respective pads on the socket pcb. The triggers are set to trigger low. 
I ran the second chuff through a reed relay controlled by an RCS trigger which permits me to switch from Simple to Compound at will. Just like the prototype would have been able to do. 
I can't speak for AirWire of course, but it is really simple to do with RCS. 
I still don't think the loco provides adequate ventilation for the ESC so for the next 2-6-6-2T I do I will probably gut the loco and start from scratch using the TOC solution with magnets and reed switch on the axles.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 05/15/2009 11:33 AM
Yes, the new chuff "triggers" on the 2-6-6-2 should work fine with your Phoenix. I understand that there are 2 chuff "outputs" from the 2-6-6-2, and you may have to put a diode to isolate them if you want both. I would try just connecting one to the P5 and make sure that is working. They are apparently "active high". 

I think if you put a diode on each one then you can connect both together and get "both" "chuffs".... Tony W knows all of this, and I hope he comes over to this thread. 

Regards, Greg
Greg what size diodes?...does it matter which side of the trigger it goes to? sensor to board output? Or ground side?
Thanks

Bubba


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I thought I posted this before but here goes again.

Thanks to the guys that responded to my questions, as I now have chuff from the sensors in the 2-6-6-2!

I like the actual triggered chuff versus the voltage as when you apply a load to the voltage the chuffing charistics change to an unrealistic chuff output.

Thanks again!

Bubba


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