# Bachmann 3 Truck Shay with Sound



## dwolson (Oct 17, 2008)

Well, I finally did it. I have been admiring the Bachmann 55 Ton 3 Truck Shay for some time now and I finally placed an order for one. I had been wanting one with the Tsunami sound, but didn't want to pay $700 for one. I found a heck of a deal on one and decided to take the plunge. Now I need to know from the experts if there is anything I should be looking for with this loco. I will be using track power for this Shay and DC for now and DCC later on. Also, what log cars would you recommend for this loco. I am sure Accucraft makes some nice ones, but I am on a budget.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Some moron wrote up a "fix" for it. 
Something about wires not soldered for strain-relief and no external strain relief installed. 
I think it was on the GR website, with photos.


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## dwolson (Oct 17, 2008)

Can you please post a link to that website?


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/85361/1008447.aspx#1008447


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think the moron was called TOC, but I cannot find the website.... seems to think he knows everything... funny thing is... may be right! 

dwolson: GR = Garden Railways.... go to trains.com.... also, don't let Dave pull your leg, one will be way longer than the rest... you'll walk funny for a long time! 

Regards, Greg


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

For log bunks on a budget ... two suggestions ...

The current issue of Garden Railways (Dec '08) gives a writeup by Eric Schade on buuilding your own ...

The second possibility are the B'mann cars - they are a bit short for western prototypes but can really be made to look very nice. a search of the archives here may turn up a pic or two of what some guys have done.

Regards ... Doug


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

> Some moron wrote up a "fix" for it.

If that guy's a moron, I hate to think where that would leave me.

I favor the less expensive B'mann cars. The tirck though to any car is finding the right replacement logs.









Before paint and replacement logs...









After paint and replacment logs.

Best,
TJ


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

I use wooden logs, made out of old trees. Funny thing is, they look SOOOOOOOOOOO real without ANY weathering at all.

They also prevent the cars from being blown off the track, too.

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

From what I have heard the sound volume can only be adjusted if using DCC. Later RJD


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

And, there is no possibility of mechanical chuff input. 

And, I can tell you from experience, when the Quasi-Nami's fail, it is easy to convert it back to track power.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Can the factory sound equipped shays with DCC installed be converted to run on battery? I don't want to use DCC, just battery operate it. If not, how hard is it to add sound to a non-sound version? How hard is it to syncronize the chuff? Does anyone have a write up on this?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

up9018, you never really said so... did you get one with factory sound or not? (that means the quasinami as we call it) 

You are on stage TOC..... 

Have fun.... 

Greg


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Depends. 

Since it has no provision for mechanical chuff input (hardware not there), and since it's a sound AND motor decoder, if you really want to have something usable for your radio/battery, either get one without or......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 


Cut and Throw! 

You also probably should check and see if anything has changed. 
When first offerred, the unit was not serviced by the board manufacturer. 
They referred you to the locomotive manufacturer, who had contracted it as OEM equipment. 
The locomotive manufacturer (back then) had no spares, nor the expertise to repair the units, and referred you back to the board manufacturer. 

At the time, the board manufacturer had shipped everything (drawings, diagrams, boards) to the locomotive manufacturer. 
When my board went "poof!", and I did get them to look at it, they didn't even know how to connect it. 

IF you buy one, the big question is, what happens when it dies? 
Add to that the "new" 90-day warranty on electrical devices that was in effect when that locomotive was released, and you might get the idea.


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## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By up9018 on 10/28/2008 8:44 PM
Can the factory sound equipped shays with DCC installed be converted to run on battery? I don't want to use DCC, just battery operate it. If not, how hard is it to add sound to a non-sound version? How hard is it to syncronize the chuff? Does anyone have a write up on this?


If you decide to use the soundtraxx product with battery/ RC they you need to consider AirWire or Gwire (same thing). This RC system will generate the DCC packets that the decoder desires. I believe the 3 truck comes with chuff contacts but the Bachmann/Soundtraxx decoder does not have any chuff inputs so you will have to let the sound unit in auto synchronize mode.

Stan Ames


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Posted By StanleyAmes on 10/29/2008 6:00 AM
Posted By up9018 on 10/28/2008 8:44 PM
Can the factory sound equipped shays with DCC installed be converted to run on battery? I don't want to use DCC, just battery operate it. If not, how hard is it to add sound to a non-sound version? How hard is it to syncronize the chuff? Does anyone have a write up on this?


If you decide to use the soundtraxx product with battery/ RC they you need to consider AirWire or Gwire (same thing). This RC system will generate the DCC packets that the decoder desires. I believe the 3 truck comes with chuff contacts but the Bachmann/Soundtraxx decoder does not have any chuff inputs so you will have to let the sound unit in auto synchronize mode.

Stan Ames




Valiant attempt!
But, not good enough.

The Quasi is set to 21V max, which means on some control systems, you will need to be smarter than plug-and-play to add voltage dropping diode networks.

The Shays all do have chuff contacts.
But, the Quasi does not have any inputs (hardware...remember?) to accept them.

Auto chuff is not "good enough".

There are pages and pages of discussion on this very subject on the various forums.

As long as one checks with the manufacturer FIRST, to see what options for warranty are, and how long said warranty is for, to check the additional cost of the Quasi-equipped version over a stock version, and decide based upon that information whether the additional cost is worth it to you.

Some folks think I gave up on the K.

I actually gave up on the 3-truck, but stuck around by request to try to make sure the K was right.

When I found out who was behind the 3-truck Quasi, that's when I gave up.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you have the quasinami, then be sure to keep track voltage down, as TOC says, many people have reported that their shay is "broken" because all it does is sit there and blink. 

Many DCC systems run at 22 volts or above, and the shay starts blinking at 21 as TOC says. Also, many "DC" people have track power voltage in excess of 21 volts, and you may encounter the same problem. 

If you are unhappy with how it runs, I would suggest using a QSI if you are trying to save $$ and will go to DCC or AirWire later. It will take 35 volts, and you get sound and motor control and auto chuff or you can use the chuff contacts. 

Talk to TOC about chuff switch contact maintenance and adjustment. 

Regards, Greg 

p.s. hoping you will respond and confirm if you have it with the factory sound or not...


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## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Curmudgeon on 10/29/2008 9:43 AM

Valiant attempt!
But, not good enough.

The Quasi is set to 21V max, which means on some control systems, you will need to be smarter than plug-and-play to add voltage dropping diode networks.

The Shays all do have chuff contacts.
But, the Quasi does not have any inputs (hardware...remember?) to accept them.

Auto chuff is not "good enough".

There are pages and pages of discussion on this very subject on the various forums.




Dave

The origional question was about using the Bachmann factory equipped sound 3 truck shay with Battery/RC which can be done using the Airwire approach. The voltage in this case depends on the number of battery cells chosen. 12 -14 cells is likely what most users would choose. In this case the additional issues you raise do not apply.

If the question was about track power then indeed all SoundTraxx Tsumani products producded to date shut down at aound 21 volts. Bachmann uses similar Soundtraxx products with autochuff very successfully in many of their smaller scale products. These smaller scales seldum see 21 volts so this is not an issue and apparently these sound locomotives are very popular. In large scale we commonly use higher track voltages so yes indeed while easy it is a pain to have to put in a voltage reduction component to allow the locomotive to function as desired when using higher voltage track power.

And yes most of us found that you also had to adjust the autochuff to get the correct shay effect. Once adjusted the effect is reasonable. And yes indeed this requires a DCC style programmer such is commonly found in most DCC systerms This adjustment is easy for a RC user to do as well so long as the RC system can generate DC packets such as available through AirWire or Gwire.

And also yes indeed if the user wants to use other RC systems that are not capable of generating DCC packets (such as the one you sell) then the Soundtraxx sound product found in the 3 truck shay is indeed not a good option.

How well this product as shipped works depends a great deal on what the end user wants to do with it.

Stan Ames


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

or, if you put the unit on an MTS system, it shuts down. 
Or, as Greg pointed out, just about anything over 21 volts. 

So, are you saying by not addressing the question that the locomotive manufacturer has parts to fix these when the boards fail? 
What cost to the consumer if over 90 days? 

Smaller scales use it successfully. 
Right. 

You can't even SEE where the rods are, and it's okay.....but it seems maybe your memory needs to be refreshed on the question of consumer satisfaction with non-mechanically-synchronized chuff in large scale? 

EDIT:
Ain't WRITEN history grand?
http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=6927&p=1


More to come.
You are in fine form in this thread.

I do believe this thread was the one where you also started the "Sierra is dead" manifesto.


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Posted By StanleyAmes on 10/29/2008 2:15 PM




The origional question was about using the Bachmann factory equipped sound 3 truck shay with Battery/RC which can be done using the Airwire approach. The voltage in this case depends on the number of battery cells chosen. 12 -14 cells is likely what most users would choose. In this case the additional issues you raise do not apply.

Stan Ames


Stanley.
Read with comprehension.
That is the key to success.

Do NOT try to hijack threads to fit what you think they said.

Allow me to copy the original question here for you:

" I will be using track power for this Shay and DC for now and DCC later on. "

The original question had absolutely zero to do with radio/battery.
Nada.
Zilch.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Not to give anyone a hard time, but this thread is just on one page. There should be absolutely no question as to what the original question was: I quote the author of the thread: 

Now I need to know from the experts if there is anything I should be looking for with this loco. I will be using track power for this Shay and DC for now and DCC later on." 

There is only one question, and the thread starter indicated what kind of power he will run now, and in the future. 

I see no battery, R/C, AirWire. 

I think it is clear the originator has no secret agenda, just finally bought one, and wants to know what he should look out for. 

1. don't go over 21 volts. 
2. there are no spare electronic parts (just ask Bob Grosh) 
3. Bachmann does not support nor really understand the electronics, they told many people to go to SoundTraxx. 
4. Soundtraxx has indicated that they sold the units as OEM to Bachmann, and they do not support nor repair them. 

I think that's my beginning list to the author of what to watch for. 

Regards, Greg


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

And, since he said "dcc", that is why the 21V max was brought up. 
For G.P. the wiring issue was brought up. 

And fo no good reason at all, ........ooops, best not.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Aaaaah!!!!!!!!! Stanley. 

What a guy!!


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## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By dwolson on 10/27/2008 8:05 PM
Well, I finally did it. I have been admiring the Bachmann 55 Ton 3 Truck Shay for some time now and I finally placed an order for one. I had been wanting one with the Tsunami sound, but didn't want to pay $700 for one. I found a heck of a deal on one and decided to take the plunge. Now I need to know from the experts if there is anything I should be looking for with this loco. I will be using track power for this Shay and DC for now and DCC later on. 

Thanks



Dwolson
I wanted to respond to the questions that up9018 asked first. As stated earlier how well the 3 truck shay with the Tsumani light decoder works for you depends a great deal how you intend to use it.
Since you indicate that you have already placed an order for one I assume that you are looking on what you can expect and what you may want to do to enhance it.
You might want to check out the following youtube link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz9m0LUCJ0g
As I understand it this link is with the stock locomotive on DCC but with the chuff adjusted.
As shipped the auto sync chuff is way to slow and the effect does not work well. You will need to use a DCC programmer to adjust the chuff rate to get the effect shown in the video.
Also on DC track power you will find that several of the automatic sounds for DC use are turned off and again need to be turned on if desired using a DCC programmer. 
There is no separate trigger for the Whistle and bell on DC track power and the MRC unit to activate this remotely as is done in the smaller scales has yet to be released for higher amp locomotives.
Thus to get the full potential of this locomotive you will need to be using one of the DCC modes. (Track DCC, DCC direct (track signal or RC signal) or a hybrid.)
If you go with track powered DCC then it is highly likely you will eventually choose a DCC track voltage level that is greater than the 21 volts max for the supplied decoder.
In this case you unfortunately have take off the bunker and add two voltage dropping rectifiers. 
http://www.atlasrr.com/voltage.htm
This shows the use of using rectifiers between the system and the track. I think it best for this locomotive to apply this between the track pickups and the decoder. I have found 2 rectifiers work fine for this application, one on each track lead. 
While you are in the locomotive I would recommend one other change.
As shipped the track pickups from the front truck to the rear trucks go through a circuit board. The traces are way to small for this purpose and it is possible if you have a derailment that causes a direct short that one of the traces will melt. I always recommend that if using track power for this locomotive that you place a jumper so that the pickups are directly connected together.
If instead you choose to go with an RC DCC approach then the above two suggestions are unnecessary.
Hope the above helps.
Stan
http://www.tttrains.com/largescale 
using DCC in the garden since 1992
www.tttrains.com/largescale


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Aaaaah!!!!!!!!! Stanley. 

What a guy!!


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Posted By StanleyAmes on 10/30/2008 11:23 AM
I wanted to respond to the questions that up9018 asked first. As stated earlier how well the 3 truck shay with the Tsumani light decoder works for you depends a great deal how you intend to use it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz9m0LUCJ0g
This shows the use of using rectifiers between the system and the track. I think it best for this locomotive to apply this between the track pickups and the decoder. I have found 2 rectifiers work fine for this application, one on each track lead. 
While you are in the locomotive I would recommend one other change.
As shipped the track pickups from the front truck to the rear trucks go through a circuit board. The traces are way to small for this purpose and it is possible if you have a derailment that causes a direct short that one of the traces will melt. I always recommend that if using track power for this locomotive that you place a jumper so that the pickups are directly connected together.
If instead you choose to go with an RC DCC approach then the above two suggestions are unnecessary.
Hope the above helps.
Stan
http://www.tttrains.com/largescale 
Ah, valiant save attempt!
Just not quite there.
Yes, jumper the trucks.
That way, when it derails, you take out the pickups which are made of unobtainium.
Polyswitches?
Nah, too easy.

Real good plug-and-play.
Add rectifiers.
Good!

Good thing I know who was behind the list of requirements on this one.

Easier to buy one without, gut what's there, and add your own components from a manufacturer that A) actually builds the stuff, and B) can fix it when you blow it up and possibly C) can help with technical support.

But, you knew that, right?
You're just playing with us.......


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

My 2 cents: 

Don't know why the shay would be any more likely to damage anything with a truck to truck short, but I would fuse the pickups if you were concerned. 

Bypassing the board to protect it would most likely just let the short melt the pickup housings and overheat and collapse the pickup springs. I think I would rather have a burned up wire or trace than damage those parts. 

Regards, Greg


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Holy cr*p what a can of worms I opened....Let me elaborate a bit more and maybe get some more direction. No, I haven't purchased one YET, I want to run battery and Airwire on my layout. I also want all of my locomotives to be sound equipped, and to sound CORRECT, ie I want my shay to sound like it is moving a 100mph when it's going nowhere, just like the real ones.

Now since we have so affectionately refered to the factory sound as "QUASI" I assume it's not very good? With that in mind, then my plan would be to add a Soundtraxx System? That is why I need to know how hard it would be to synchronize the chuff to the cylinders. I'm not too keen on the idea of paying extra for the factory sound and DCC equipped version just to cut half of it out.

So wth all that in mind, who volunteers to install the sound and Airwire for me?


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

No, it's not that it's not any good. 
It IS a Soundtraxx unit, with specified design criteria as an OEM unit. 
As such, it doesn't have some things other Soudtraxx units have. 

IF you desire mechanical, triggered chuff, this one isn't it. 

IF you desire something you can get service on, or replacements for, this one isn't it.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd buy a non-sound one, add one of the new Phoenix P9B's and you would have great sound, lower cost than the 2K2, and you could use the chuff switches in the shay. 

Regards, Greg


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg: The Phoenix P9 is not yet in production or available. He wants to go Airwire anyway, so needs the lower cost p5 for best return on investment, not the P9. No need to wait. He just needs to get one without the Bachmann electronics if possible, as it is impossible to correctly sync the factory sound, The included sound file is a 2 cylinder rod engine anyway, not even close to a three cyl shay. 
Jonathan/EMW


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

You could always go Live Steam and get "REAL" sound!


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 11/01/2008 12:47 AM
You could always go Live Steam and get "REAL" sound! 

Live-steam three-truck Shay - Aster only - a rarity and hard to find at around $5-8K.

Electric three-truck shay, including sound and battery/remote control - $1K or so.

Not everybody has a $1M to spend on toy trains, Mr Vaporo.

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Considering this Forum is entitled Beginners Forum a lot of the posts have been rather heavy going: to the extent possibly of deterring some beginners from sound installations.

Even UP9018 who posed the original question doesn't seem to feel he got any answers to his benefit.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Great Western on 11/01/2008 6:37 AM
Considering this Forum is entitled Beginners Forum a lot of the posts have been rather heavy going: to the extent possibly of deterring some beginners from sound installations.

Even UP9018 who posed the original question doesn't seem to feel he got any answers to his benefit.











Agreed, Mr Lott - I, too, am very interested in finding out about installing sound in a Bachmann three-truck Shay - mine is sitting in its box beside me as I write this.

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Jonathan, missed the airwire on his last post.... I figured if he had not bought it yet, by the time he bought it, the P9 would be out!. His first post was DC and DCC later, so I was still in DC mode! 

So AirWire, then a DCC sound decoder. But he asked for chuff sync, and the Shay DOES have chuff contacts built in, so, even though it would be more maintenance to keep the contacts clean and in shape, following his request strictly would mean a sound board that has accurate shay sounds and chuff input. The P5 needs an extra board to do this, so if he had to have one right now, wouldn't the 2K2 be a better fit and lower cost as opposed to the P5 and the extra board for inputs? 

Regards, Greg


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

If the P5 is being used with DCC, it has inbuilt contacts for a mechanical chuff timer. In fact it has two sets of chuff timers. The extra P5T pcb is only used if regular R/C sound triggers are the selected method of triggerring sounds.


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Plus, to expand on what Tony said, there are a few ways to program a shay to arrive at the best sound. The the 3 cylinder having three contacts, setting the P5 software to 2 hits per pulse will give 6 chuffs per crankshaft revolution-exactly half of a prototypical 12 chuffs. Since we run our locos faster than scale anyway, the 6 chuffs blend into a nice roar just like a real shay at higher speeds. I suggest turning chuff averaging off, but some like it on. If you really want to have 12 chuffs, then it is better to use 4 magnets and set the software to three hits each, as using the Bachmann contacts ( set of three) with software set at 4 hits does not work as well. 
Jonathan/EMW


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By tacfoley on 11/01/2008 5:13 AM
Posted By Semper Vaporo on 11/01/2008 12:47 AM
You could always go Live Steam and get "REAL" sound! 

Live-steam three-truck Shay - Aster only - a rarity and hard to find at around $5-8K.

Electric three-truck shay, including sound and battery/remote control - $1K or so.

Not everybody has a $1M to spend on toy trains, Mr Vaporo.

tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/ 






WHAT?







!?!?!?! !!! ??? !!!!









Not everybody here is a Bazzionaire?!?!?!?!







Dain'g, I was gonna ask for a quick loan!









I'm aghast with.... well.... wonder and amazement! I guess... maybe... oh well...

My comment was about the apparent difficulty and utter consternation caused by said inability to synchronize the "chuff sound"... what better way to obtain such synchronization and fidelity of sound than to do the "REAL" thing?

I should also point out that your "Time" is of some value, too! 

I realize that there is the VALUE of the tremendous emotional return on investment in the adventure of installing a sound card and making it not only fit in a space that was not designed to contain said sound card, but squeeze in a speaker and possibly batteries, (or at least tap some other power source in the loco with a voltage regulator that is also some sort of power extender so the sound can continue after the loco has been shut off or is laying on its side after a wreck), and to figure out HOW to make all the connections; I compare that to piddling with the oiler and burner (either twiddling with the wicks or cleaning the nozzle) in the Live Steam world.







Of course we have to ignore the emotional trauma caused by cutting out and throwing away all the OEM installed stuff (sound card/speaker/controller/etc) that you paid for in the original purchase.

But, to me, an excessive amount of TIME is being spent trying to find just the "right" (







) sound card with the "correct" (







) sound (nothing like a Diesel horn going off in synchronization with the rotation of the wheels !







" BEEP honk honk honk BEEP honk honk honk" and sounding for the grade crossing with "chuf chuf CHUUUUFFFFFFFF chuf"







). If you spent less time trying to figure all that out, you could get a second or third job and then you could afford that elusive, yet eminently desirable, Aster Shay. Then you will have the "Correct" sound, that is perfectly synchronized, AND since you are so busy with the three jobs, you won't have time to run it so you can send it to me and I'll run it for you!THANKS!









I have to admit that I am in total wonderment as to why the manufacturers cannot install all this stuff to begin with... why do we have to go off and buy different couplers, different wheels, different trucks, different lights, different sound card, different speaker, different controller, different power system, different cab, different smokebox door, different boiler shell, different chassis, different decorations, ad nauseum, and then disolve off all the decals and repaint it... I swear, sometimes it seems the only thing left from the original purchase is the receipt!









But I guess I have wandered off topic, haven't I? Sorry


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Because, we all have our 'druthers on equipment. 

If the manufacturer installs dcc, I don't want it, so I pay to buy it and to gut it. 

I may also prefer my own type of wheels. 
They don't provide them, rather inexpensive units I don't feel bad about pitching. 

Couplers? 
Manufacturers put Kadees on OEM, I won't buy it. 

I would have to cut them off and pitch them. 

SIMPLICITY. 

Like, simple screw terminals so anyone can connect what they want. 

Mandated sockets are the first step on a slippery slope. 

And anybody that tells you those sockets don't cost anything either doesn't have a clue or is purposefully trying to divert attention from the issue. 

We've got it down pretty pat now. 
Set the gauge, rip out the wimpy yellow LED headlights (or bright blue) for proper (on steam) incandescents, gut the circuit boards out that are too big, in the way, exceesively complex, and have an unknown long-term serviceability, and any factory sound, especially that done OEM with less functionality than what I desire. 

And start from scratch, with new wire that I know will work long-term.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

o.

Right.

Thank you [I think].

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like he got a lot of answers now to sort and apply.








Later RJD


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow, that's a lot of information to digest, but a lot of great ideas and suggestions. I plan on purchasing a non-sound, non-dcc version. I'm pretty sure I can get the airwire and battery installation in myself, as well as the sound system. My biggest difficulty is they snyc of the cylinders. Right now I'm in the ordering/deciding what I need stage. I am on somewhat of a budget, but I still want it to be correct. I plan on tearing it down, painting and customizing it to my particular desires. (This is my winter project) I'm sure you will be hearing from me more in the future for help. Thanks again everyone.


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## poikadoom (Oct 24, 2012)

Hey what are the dimensions of 55 ton Shay? And how much does it weigh ?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Dude! 

You are reviving a thread from 2008? 

So you can ask the size and weight? Go the bachmanntrains.com and find out. 

Seriously... start a new thread if you can't find the specs.... google is your friend. 

Greg


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

I like TJs replacement logs...looks a little like the bark of a Russian Olive tree? Nice job and do agree that you don't need any detailing for their realistic appearance. I've got some LGB logging trucks, but haven't put them together yet.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

there is also a guy on line here that makes very ice logs out of foam, no weight at all and look real. All I can remember right now is his name is Mike, will look in my stuff and see if I can find more information.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Here is two redwood logs, made from a styrafoam block covered with magic sculpt.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

>I like TJs replacement logs...looks a little like the bark of a Russian Olive tree? 

Thanks! 

I made my logs from a bottle-brush bush. The bark looks great although naturally it's a silverish color. Some redwood stain and it's good to go. 

Best, 
TJ


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