# Cedar - to paint or not to paint



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I'll put this question because it involves track, in that I'm building a "raised flower bed" to hold my yard/storage tracks.

I'm not fond of that green pressure-treated lumber - I don't think the color (colour, for our Canadian friends) would look right in the midst of my patio, flower beds, etc. So I sprang for Cedar. The planks have been cut to the desired lengths and I just spent a surprising amount for galvanized lag screws, nuts and washers. Now I'm wondering if the cedar is going to be reasonably weather-resistant (ten or more years?) sitting out naked in the elements. I haven't been able to find any decisive information on the Internet.

Should I paint or stain it first?

JackM


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Jack, 

I found this: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100610155324AAGHo6g 
And this: http://www.ehow.com/how_2311776_waterproof-wood-unpainted.html 

So, it looks cedar has natural preservatives in it and will hold many more that 10 years (25-50) and it is not necessary to paint or seal it if you don't mind the wood is turning grayish over the years. 

Paul


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Paul -

You people who can actually find what you're looking for on the Internet really bug me. I spent half an hour and found sources for kits to build raised beds, and advice that cedar shingles on your roof should be painted. And you find just the source I was looking for. My life is like a Bing.com commercial. Only I've tried them and they're not a bit better than Google. Bing just gives you different incorrect sources.

Thanks for your help. I will now move along to drilling the cedar full of holes for all the galvanized carriage bolts I bought today. This is getting to be one expensive "flower" bed.

JackM


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looks good stained too. 

John


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Jack, glad I could help a bit! I'm just one of these guys that just love to Google around to find something, whatever it is... ;-))) 

Good luck with the "storage yard - flowerbed" project. I hope you post some pictures of it when it's finished. 

Paul


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack,

My first layout was on 2x6 cedar. It was on the ground for 18 years before I had some rotting.
It was held together with galvanised plates and deck screws. It was not painted but on landscaping cloth.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Well, good!! I will proceed with the project, unpainted, but possibly add a coat of clear stain (something of an oxymoron) on the outside, just to prolong its natural look. With any luck it'll last long enough for me to be carried out in it when that day comes. 

Okay - next question. I have a few mountds of dirt/topsoil on the premisis which I figure I'll shovel into the box to get it near the desired level. Is dirt the best idea? Or should I get a load of rocks. It'll only be a foot deep, but I'm concerned about settling, etc. I'll tamp it down well before laying tracks, but what material will work best? 

JackM 

Actually I could just take off my shoes and stomp it the old fashioned way. (I'm close to New York's Fingerlakes and it's grape harvesting season.) Stomp the dirt, that is, not rocks.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

As an added precaution (it can't hurt!) you might want to give the cedar a coating of water sealant (Thompson's comes to mind) as this will keep the moisture out of the wood...for a while. If anything, it should give you an extra year or two of life for the wood.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Jack, 
I would definitely tamp the dirt. I don’t think it’s necessary to put only 1 foot of rock in since it will be resting on “unprepared” base. But the dirt will settle. The more black the dirt is the more organic matter it will contain and will have more ability to decompose and settle. Apply your dirt in 2 inch layers and compact each layer with a hand tamper before you put the next layer down. It will probably end up being the most stable part of your railroad!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Nice to know the difference between black and brown soil. I'll let the flower beds have the black stuff. Now I have to decide whether to go with #4 switches for the yard tracks. I have #6 code 250 SS on the mainline but they'd take a lot of real estate in the yard. Decision, decisions. 

JackM


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## SoCalStu (Dec 27, 2007)

If you're planning to run big engines and long cars, #4 switches create pretty sharp curves. Try not to make any "S" curves from them into the yard.


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