# New Design Track Cleaning Car



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Stoked with the success of the new track cleaning engine, I decided to incorporate this technology into revising my track cleaning car. I figured that it was really just a matter of "splitting" the spine and making the two pieces rigid to the trucks. I even had a piece of leftover steel.

But looking through the parts, I found something even better. I found two brackets that were designed to hold ??? that were the perfect length and already drilled. If fact, each of these brackets had two sized holes in them. One hole is the perfect size to match the hole in a set of LGB trucks, and the other the perfect size for my existing track cleaning drywall pad.

So it was just a matter of coming up with the right size screws. The plastic even "self threads."

This is the old cleaner.


And the new version.



A screw pins the bracket in place.



This demonstrates the difference in clearance.

Old cleaner along LGB turnout motor.



And the new version.



This should track much better because it won't kick up as much rock on the curves. Because it is set up "disconnect-style" (i.e., without a spine), there is no need to slot the holes to let the pad track the track.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

By jove I think you've got it. Great minds think kinda alike. I'm sure there will be a few railroaders out there who will benefit from your ideas. Their backs will appreciate them even more.

Doc


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I'm thinking of doing a load of PVC pipe to go on the disconnects. Then I can leave it parked on a siding and it won't look so "out of place." I currently remove the old cleaner from the tracks when not in use. 

I can drill the bottom of the PVC and let the screw in the trucks stick up into it and nut it from the inside. I can do the same on the other side, but _slot it_ and nut it so it can compensate for the variation in length on the curves. Then the other pieces of PVC would be glued to this piece and will move with it.

I could then put sand or ballast inside the pipes for weight and get rid of the fishing weights over the trucks. I'll try this with a piece of existing PVC, and if it works out, buy a 10' piece to do six pipes ~17" long.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I added a PVC load today. I just used the PVC stack from one of my static displays. I would have liked the pipes to be a couple inches longer, so that's a project for another time. Meanwhile this looks much better and now I can park it on the railroad and it won't look so out of place.



The pad still "floats " and follows the track.



Instead of slotting the pad holders, I slotted the rear end of the PVC load to allow it to negotiate the corners. I made the curved washer by suspending it in the vice and giving it a whack.



Now I can just add weight to the tubes as necessary.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

how high above the rails (if at all) is the LGB switch motor? 

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The turnout motors sit approximately level to just above the rail. Note the slight gap at the railhead with a straight edge. Recognize that the straight edge may even be pointing downward a bit due to the prior abrasion of the plastic. Also recognize that drywall sanders and hand pads have a rubber padding and that actually allows the screen to ride a bit below the railhead both inside and outside as it compresses at the railhead.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Todd... I've always wondered why manufacturers couldn't just get things just under the rail head... like the Kadee magnet 1/64" above... 

I can see the scuff marks on the corner of the housing, and it looks like that philips screw in the corner is now flush with the cover top. 

Thanks! 

Greg


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