# Aristocraft 0-4-0



## PennaRailroad1361 (Jun 19, 2012)

I'm considering purchasing an Aristocraft 0-4-0 model but I have some questions. The first question is how strong is the engine? I know its based off of a PRR A5 switcher and switchers were generally not used for more than 4-5 cars on a short yard move (hence the term "switcher"). My second question is will it be able to push an Aristocraft (wedge) snowplow? Some youtube videos have the snowplow weighed down to prevent derailments, will the 0-4-0 still be able to plow the snow with it? My third and final question is besides the missing tender, is there any difference between the one included in the aristocraft starter set and the one sold separately? Thank you, all help is appreciated.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

As long as there is not any snow on the track it will push the plow. In order to move real snow you will need a large heavy engine. Most of us use mallets or diesels. Many times it takes double or triple heading. It all depends on the depth and whether the snow is wet and heavy or dry and light. The diameter of your curves also comes into play. tight curves, less than 10' diameter, make the engine work harder. Most of the larger engines will move upto an inch without need of a plow. Chuck


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

The aristo 0-4-0 is a nice little engine but not a very strong puller and as mentioned, it won't show you much love behind a snowplow. Also the version with the tender is better, IMHO, because you can wire it to pick up power from the tender. A good small and inexpensive choice for plowing might be the aristo center cab switcher, which pulls as well as any 8 wheel diesel. But also as mentioned, snow is very heavy. 

For what it's worth, the PRR A5 was a pretty powerful engine for it's size and could haul 15 cars through tight urban and industrial curves.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the Aristo plow with a brick in the bed plus a lead weight and push it with 2 SD-45's. 

I tried just 1 SD45, but with track power 2 were better for power pickup. 

I would never try the plow with anything smaller than the SD45 for plowing snow. 

PS each SD45 has 4 motors and over 15 pounds of weight, plus I use the MU cable between the 2 units for better power pickup.


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## ntpntpntp (Jan 14, 2008)

I second lownote's recommendation to wire up the 0-4-0 to a tender. I did this when I chipped my start-set 0-4-0, it greatly improved the pickups for smooth running. I've also done the same with an old REA Rogers 2-4-2.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The 0-4-0 does not have a reputation a a strong puller, nor is the drivetrain as bulletproof as all the other Aristo steamers using the "prime mover" gearboxes. 

It's not going to be a long term workhorse if you intend to pull a lot of cars. 

The first questions you asked concerns me that you might be getting off on the wrong foot with this particular loco. 

Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

To answer your question, I believe the tenders are the same. I picked up a couple and they had the Hall effect wheel and limited switch control under the coal pile. 
I got the starter set with 2 Sierra coaches. It ran fine for a year or more until I got it wet inside.... I picked up Hartland's Jupiter fot the passenger train consist. 

If you want a small display layout, this is probably ok, but if this is an entry to a larger layout, I'd start with a larger loco for all the reasons others have stated. I went larger and only use the 2 cars today. 

John


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I have 2 of them. 

For continuous running, keep the train short. Like 2 or 3 cars at the most. Mine was happy with 2 Sierra coaches, but when I added the 3rd, it cooked the motor. 

Here's my impression. 

With a new motor, they'll practically pull trees (exaggeration). With too long a train, after running a few hours, the motor overheats. From then on, they'll run fine, but not have much torque and can stall out easily. Once you've stalled it a few times, the motor will burn out a winding and you'll have a dead spot. Then you'll have to nudge it to get it to start. If you're handing with a soldering iron and screw driver, you can replace the motor in about 20 minutes. A new motor is less than $20 (last I looked). I once bought a $40 pittman motor from North West Short Line. "Just move the worms from one of your old motors to this one," he said. If he can move those worms from the old shaft, he's a better man than I! 

If the loco starts to waddle down the track, one axle has slipped a tooth. Look closely at the spokes and you can see if the back is ahead or behind. Take out the 4 screws and pry off the bottom. Then pull the back wheels up and advance or retard them a tooth to get back in sync with the front. They'll likely be fine till the next derailment. 

I've been using larger locos for years, but I've thought about fixing one of them up with a battery and RC for people to use shunting cars on Midwest RAILS' yard with plastic track. I've also thought about replacing the drive with 2 mikado/mallet axles and gear boxes. 

By modern standards, the smoke unit is nothing. There's a piston in one cylinder and it's pretty cute how it puffs smoke as it runs. 

Keep in mind they're LITTLE locos and they run very nicely.


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