# Quick fix for poor conductivity at a rail joint ?



## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Recently, a fellow club member who runs track power on a 15 year old layout was having problems with a loco stalling at a bad track joint. Is there any quick (i.e. temporary) fix for this during an open house? I suggested electrical contact cleaner, although I've never really tried it. I have used CRC 2-26 (as being discussed in another thread) on wheels and track, but never tried it on a rail joint.


Obviously, the proper way to fix it is dis-assembly, cleaning, greasing, and replacing the slip-on joiner with a rail clamp. But what do you do under pressure with people watching?
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## Anton Vacek (Jan 4, 2008)

At one time, San-Val sold a stainless steel clamp that had 4 screws and was put on over the original rail joiner. It can be installed in about 2 minutes from the top without moving the track and may be left on permanently. It is also excellent for connecting wires to the rails. I keep a few on hand for just such an emergency. I believe Al (from San-Val) can still furnish these clamps. Once I installed these clamps, I have never had a conductivity problem with that joint again. Check out San-Val on the web. Tony


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

the quickest solution would be some cable with the ends squezed between the rail and the sleeper webbing on both sides of the dead connection. 
i even sometimes use welding-wire (the uppermost part of the pic) 

http://kormsen.info/steering/bilder/jumper01.JPG


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By kormsen on 28 Sep 2011 10:11 AM 
the quickest solution would be some cable with the ends squezed between the rail and the sleeper webbing on both sides of the dead connection. 
i even sometimes use welding-wire (the uppermost part of the pic) 

http://kormsen.info/steering/bilder/jumper01.JPG 
Great idea ! I'll bet a paper clip would even work.


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking at Kormsen's pictures gave me an idea. The clamp below is from an LGB starter set. Two of them wired together would give you a temporary screw on quick fix so long as you had space to slide it under the rail and you had enough clamps. 










Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

Ditto the Kormson's KISS method.


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## Therios (Sep 28, 2008)

For that matter, I would think that a wire with alligator clips on the end would be quite effective for a quick fix.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Yes, both quick and permanent. Just resolder the jumper wire that you had put on when first laying the track.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Posted By toddalin on 28 Sep 2011 01:32 PM 
Yes, both quick and permanent. Just resolder the jumper wire that you had put on when first laying the track.










tss, tss, tss ...
don't you know, that jumper wires are only for reliable, planning, sane and stable persons?
i think, i would go crazy, if i had to unsolder each connection, every time i want to change my track.


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## reeveha (Jan 2, 2008)

Some of our club members use WD40 but don't get it on any plastic


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

As an alternative to rail clamps, one of the guys in our club drills holes right through the slide-on connector and into the rails from about a 45deg angle, then installs self-tapping screws into the holes. Very simple and works like a charm.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

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As an alternative to rail clamps, one of the guys in our club drills holes right through the slide-on connector and into the rails from about a 45deg angle, then installs self-tapping screws into the holes. Very simple and works like a charm. 
A lot of folks I know use that very successfully. But it certainly isn't a "quick fix". I'm talking about getting a train going while you have 30 people in your yard asking you why it keeps screwing up in the same spot. There is no time for tools, etc. 

So far I like the idea of a quick jumper under the rails (paper clip or whatever) the best. 

Was the WD40 suggestion to spray it in the joint? Dirty rails and wheels ... That another problem altogether.

Great input. Keep it coming.


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

For a quick fix, try spraying vinegar on the rail joint. Told this to an "HO" friend of mine and a week later he told me it worked great but his basement smelled like a pickel factory.


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

If it's aristo track, simply unscrewing the track screws slide the connector back and forth a few times and screwing the track screws back in can work in a pinch. The moving of everything usually breaks through the crust and opens a path for current to follow. 

But i agree with the alligator clips. have a few premade on hand for just such an occasion. 

Terry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Alligator clips are tough to get to hold on to the foot the the rail, the only place you can put them without derailing a loco. 

If you have small clips, you might be able to hook onto the heads of screws on Aristo track (allen socket head screws). 

If you have clamps, loosening the screws, levering the clamp away from the rails, and a squirt of brake cleaner spray works, followed by some crc and tightening up. 

If you have rail joiners, like Terry said, try to move them back and forth, and squirt with crc while doing. 

I also have those LGB power connectors, and they would be the easiest and fastest temporary connection, I buy them up whenever I see them in a swap meet. 

Greg


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Quickest way is to remove the joiner and have on hand some Split Jaw clamps, replace it right away for a permenent solution....can be done in the clutch...that is if you are yourself good in the clutch.









Those clamps Al sold were called the Conductor....I used those origionally and always had problems either still with conduction OR the screws stripping or the plate not tapped to except the screw...a very expensive lesson trying to save a little money buying those when I should have purchased the more expensive ones, Split Jaw. The Conductor are used over the rail joiner.

I have since replaced all my conductors and have NO problems...but then I am battery power due mostly to conduction issues. 

I always have on hand some Split Jaw clamps, to make changes or adjustments easy, not to mention removing a switch when needed. 

Bubba


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## reeveha (Jan 2, 2008)

Del, the WD40 was just for the joints. The wheels pick it up as you operate your trains.


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