# truck grease



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Is there a cheap plastic-compatible grease for trucks that I can grab at the hardware store? I've got some real squeakers, you can hear 'em comin' from 30 yards, like a bad hip replacement. These are mainly Bachmann trucks. But their gear oil (light or heavy) sure isn't lasting, and it's expensive. I have lithium, graphite, 3-in-1, WD40, lots of stuff, but I understand that using any of those will cause global meltdown.


===>Cliffy


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I think the rave right now is automotive synthetics (which happen to be plastic compatible). I already use Mobil 1 synthetic grease on my gearing, and I'm quite pleased...the sizable tubs are much more cost considerate than we are used to. I've yet to try the motor oil on the axel journals yet, but I suspect this will be a good option. I wouldn't use the grease on the journals because it could attract dirt. Are folks using mobil1 10w30 (etc..) oil on their axles?


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

I've started using Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2. Called Lucas Oil, they said it's compatible with all plastics. Use it on gears and axle ends/journals. Just lubed up a USAT SD40-2, runs great now. 

I've got about 3.5 hours of quiet running since greasing, can't say how long it lasts until the next lube is needed. I'm thinking the axle ends will be more often than the gears. Other members of Minnesota Garden Railway Society (MGRS) tell me that only once is needed for the gears. Sticks very well.

Now that I reread your post, I'm thinking you're talking about freight trucks. I was thinking locomotive trucks.

Other MGRS members use bearing oil for freight trucks.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Mobil1 full synth in my truck and trains... grease on gears and oil in bearings. Sparingly!
Just enough is better than too much.
John


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## So_Pac (Oct 15, 2015)

I've always used either Labelle 102 or 107 on my rolling stock. Both are plastic compatible and 102 is the more viscous of the two. It comes in a smaller sized bottle that's nice to keep in a tool box and has a small applicator tip that makes it incredibly easy to apply the oil to the axle ends when they're inside the bearing. All you have to do is push the axle to the side and put a few drops in and you're good to go. 

One bottle for me, lasts more than a year, and I oil all my cars every 6 months. I use Labelle 102 on rolling stock bearings and 107 on smaller things like steam locomotive vale gear connections. 

Austin Goodwin
Lead Operations Instructor - Fairplex Garden Railroad


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for all the ideas guys!

Eric, I'll keep my eye out. Looks like good value, and something to just have around. 

But I agree with Austin, the needle applicator is almost a must for getting at the tiny bit of exposed axle. It comes with the B'mann oil I've been using. I'd like to find something at a local hardware store though, if it's there, and if it's just as good as the hobby products. But if Labelle is the best, so be it.

John & s-4, it's interesting that an automotive oil would work. Do you think it's thin enough to apply with needle-bottle like this? 
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNI6TOE

Thanks again guys---
Cliff


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff

I've got a labelle's bottle that is about empty. I'm planning to refill it with armed synthetic motor oil when it goes dry. One quart of motor oil should last a long time.

Chuck


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Sounds good Chuck. You think it'll go thru the little needle?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Hope so. Nothing to loose, if it doesn't it'll go into my garden tractor.

Then there always the old option of dipping a toothpick into the oil.

Chuck


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello All,

I've been using a tiny bit of the Labelle 106 white grease with PTFE on a toothpick and work it back into the bearing then add a drop of either Labelle 107 or Liquid Bearings synthetic lubricant (off eBay) -- and then spin the wheels again to dilute/carry the grease into the bearing further. 

I've been doing this for years on both plastic and brass, and while I only run at meets, have found that I might get an individual squeaker after 5 years or so that I touch up, but the rest are staying lubed. (I run long strings of 20 to 50 Accucraft 1:32 reefers behind my cab forwards, and a variety heavy brass cars. The only thing this hasn't worked on was needle point axles on some brass cars, and I bit the bullet and installed BB wheels.) 

However I can't possibly compete with the lubrication needs of Austin at the Fairplex. He probably does more running during the fair than I do in several years!

Best regards,

Alan


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