# redbeard's Ruby Mason



## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow!


What a surprise. I don't know if I can do this but here goes. My log up to yesterday is here;


http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47282


I will post new stuff here later.     redbeard AKA  Larry Newman


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

Thanks for posting the link to your great project! 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## Chuck K (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for re-posting Larry. my computer did something strange and a boat load of archived stuff is floating in my hard drive in some strange location.Grrrr 
The information has been wonderful on your project. Thanks again. 

Chuck K


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I am going to try and post a picture or two.


This is my prototype;


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I am still trying to get a handle on the picture posting, Here goes! This the loco as she will go to Diamondhead (also my warm-up/steaming rack);












This is the loco pulling cars on a four foot circle of track;












This is my railroad logo and my first attempt at decal printing;












hope it worked!


redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry,


Beautiful work and I can't wait to see it in person at Diamondhead. I sort of like it unpainted. Thanks for the thread, an interesting one to follow.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Carl, 
While I am not unhappy with the unpainted brass I am anxious to finish all the little details and paint the engine. I hope that all of you who commented and are at Diamondhead will come and introduce yourselves to me. Some of you I have met there in previous years, but I was just a spectator then! Thanks for all the comments! 
redbeard AKA Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry - how are you getting your loco to DH?


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Dwight, 
I am driving over, it's only a couple of hours from home. I am going over Wed. morning to get some running in before it gets crowded. I just updated my profile to include my location. I feel for you guys who are flying in, I wonder what this will do to the attendance level. (particularly the overseas folks) 
redbeard AKA Larry


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, Some of us overseas guys are still flying in ,   but not bringing engines this year


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod, 

I'm bringing my Cricket - you're welcome to run it if you would like. The same goes for the diesel streamliner, which I will finish before Diamondhead if it kills me! 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Bob, 
You and I both need to learn that there is a time to stop! 
I don't think it will come before Diamondhead though! 
Larry


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

The base color is done on all 5 body shells, the stripes go on tonight and tomorrow night, then the decals and clearcoat and I'm done! I'm taking off all next week so I might try to build some simple boxes for transporting the beast. 

Having a deadline has been a big help for productivity - but I'm ready to be done and enjoy the model. 

Bob


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bob, Pleased to hear your making  excellent progress with your train painting. Really looking forward to seeing it all finished. Thanks for the offer to run with you and yours    Jerry R has also offered engines to run so I should have plenty to play with   /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif

See you there.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow! I am amazed that you can get around a 4 foot circle. I can't remember if you showed how you did the exhaust, looks like it would almost be outside the limits of the smoke box. Have fun an DH.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Winn,
One of the reasons I chose this particular Mason to model is that it is one of the few 0-4-4's. So the reason it turns tighter is likely just the difference in a four driver bogie compared to a six driver bogie. Plus no lead truck. I saw a recent post that stated a Ruby would run on a 2 foot curve, I don't know because I never put mine together as a Ruby. Any way it is at it's limits on a 4 foot curve. Here is a picture I pulled up from the original post showing the exhaust. It has changed a little, as it now is a small tube inside a larger floating tube to cut down on "cooking" the "spit-ups" while running. I never heard these sounds till I quieted down the howling burner. But the slots and basics are still the same. I have found that it likes to run clockwise better than counterclockwise, bugged me till I figured out that the flexible steam line running down the left side limits the motion in that direction. Not enough to worry about as I don't anticpate running a lot in 4 foot circles- It Makes My Head Spin!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crazy.gif 
Anyway here is the old picture;








redbeard  AKA Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif
Oh Boy!
Just returned from the post office with a package from Royce! The 1/2 inch cylinders are in and they look real good. Nice little detail on the front heads that was not on the prototypes shown on an earlier post. Now I have to get them on and try them out!
redbeard  AKA Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi All,


Well it WAS ready to go to Diamondhead! I just can't leave well enough alone Here is how far apart I had to go to install the new cylinders.











I guess I can't read a dial caliper either....I was sure I measured my piston rods at 1/8th inch, but they are 3MM. So I had to drill out the crossheads to fit the bigger 1/8th inch rods. If you are doing this I advise that you use only hand power and a NEW drill bit. I used a #30 drill in my "special" tool. (a drill chuck screwed ontao a hood pin off my old 65 Chevy) Brass drills and works nicely with SHARP tools.











Installed the cylinders with no problems, everything fit well and soon I was running on air!











I reinstalled the boiler and fired her up to check things on steam. Man these cylinders run good! I can control the throttle much better than with the smaller cylinders. I had a very small leak from around a rear head bolt, so I stopped after one boiler full. I called Royce and talked to him about the leak. I have applied a little RTV to the bolts and will let that sit over night and then see how it goes. Here is where she is for tonight.








redbeard  AKA Larry


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

Are the new cylinders available from Royce now, or are these a one off pair, just for this engine? Have been waiting on new cylinders for my Mimi for the last year, hope these are available now so I can get it running. Any information is appreciated. Thanks in advance 

Charles M SA # 74


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Larry,

  Hope you get it all back together and running well for the big weekend. Good luck and have fun.

  chuckger


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Charles, 
Yes as far as I know they are now available. Royce told me by phone that he has not announced them yet since he (and I'm sure all the dealers) are in the middle of delivery of the new Cab Forwards. And of course everyone wants theirs yesterday to go to Diamondhead or Cabin Fever. So he is a bit busy this week-but has responded to every call of mine. 
redbeard AKA Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I saw a recent post that stated a Ruby would run on a 2 foot curve, I don't know because I never put mine together as a Ruby.
That's true. My old Santa Cruz Lumber Co. (now long gone) was built with R1 and R2 curves. My first steamer was a Ruby 2, and it ran on that layout. It had some problems with my grades (4 to 5%), but none with my curves.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Well Alright! A little RTV took care of my small leak and my "Pirate Loco" is reassembled and has been run. I have run a total of six boilers of steam through it and it runs better with each run. BUT enough is enough- I am stopping and packing for Diamondhead now. Thanks Royce for the shipment and for the advice. The cylinders are great! Here is a picture of the loco running in my driveway.








And if I can make this work here is a poor quality short video of the same run. I do not have a great camera for video and I am not a good photographer..........but my loco RUNS!
www.youtube.com/watch
Thanks for all the comments. Dwight I am not sure I should be grouped with the guys you mentioned in the Diamondhead post. Maybe after two or three more engines! But Thanks! I look forward to meeting everyone in person.
redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

Very nice - I look forward to seeing you at Diamondhead. Sal, Bill, and I arrive on Wednesday. Mike will be there Tuesday. 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, 
I am looking forward to seeing everyone there. I will arrive Wednesday also. 
Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

The pirate loco (loco pirate?) went to Diamondhead and had a wonderful time. Being there with an engine to run is so much better than just looking on. I met a lot of the people I share this post with, and learned a lot about steam and steamers. Saw a lot of really great engines and rolling stock, got a lot of ideas to work with and things to look for. Several people helped me to get the redbeard running better, thanks Jim, John, and Norm! It was great to swap ideas with folks in person and get more questions into my head. I bought some "stuff" at the "flea market tables" and have lots of new things to work on. Now I am going to ask for a little help from all of you! I am looking for pictures of any of the first Mason Bogies, in particular the first group of smaller 0-4-4 engines like Stockton, New Brunswick #7, North & South of Georgia #2, Shoo Fly, and of course my prototype - Onward. I am looking for pictures beyond what is found on the Mason Bogie Archive pages. I need front and rear pictures for details. So far I have found one other picture of Onward under the "hanging rock" on the American Fork line. Onward was sold to the American Fork Railroad in American Fork, Utah in the early 1870's and was renamed "American Fork". ANY help would be appreciated. Dwight it was great to meet you in person, I sure wish you could have brought your engine. I have seen a couple of pictures of my engine on John Fuller's Diamondhead post, but here is one that I took of redbeard running late at night (as pirates oft do).
 








Then the 2nd picture that I found of the prototype engine. 








As you can see this one does not give me much detail. One last thing for today, Royce the cylinders performed flawlessly and when they seated in at about 1:30 AM Thursday, she became a very sweet running engine. Lots of interested folks! Thanks Royce!


redbeard AKA Larry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I had the privilege of seeing Larry's Mason up close and personal. With the new cylinders, she runs like no Ruby I've ever seen, and she looks beautiful doing it!!! Larry's workmanship is excellent! 

Great to meet you Larry. I enjoyed every second of it!


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## alcashj94 (Jan 2, 2008)

I think it is the larger cylinders that have changed the performance - I fitted larger ones from Milton Engineering to my Ruby-Mason soon after completing it and the difference has to be seen to be believed. Does not want to race away like a rocket anymore and climbs grades that it would not look at before with the orginal cylinders. 

I don't know if Milton are producing their cylinders anymore but if Royce is marketing some I would recommend any Ruby owners who want to make it into a serious loco to buy a set. 

Allan.


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

I'm glad you have joined the live steamers at Diamondhead (and Tallahassee). The Ruby-Mason runs great! 

Bob


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob,  I thought it was live diesels in Tallahassee  ??/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/doze.gif


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod, 

I have more live steamers (trains and boats) than diesels. And of course, as an American, more guns than anything! (inside joke) 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I only have one thing to say to Shad;


THANK YOU!


To all of you other steamers, I have been busy since Diamondhead but not on my Mason. I have been creating a dedicated workspace for train building in my already overstuffed shop.Here is a picture of said space.



Now on to finishing the REDBEARD and building the next (maybe 2 at a time) engine and some rolling stock. I will keep everbody posted as work procedes.


redbeard AKA Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I am finally working on the Mason again!  After running at Diamondhead, several things became apparent - fuel tank and lubricator both needed to be moved, some slight binding on the steam bogie when turning clockwise, gauge needs to be seen from either side, and the burner needs to be reworked. Some of these things were partially dealt with at Diamondhead with the advice and guidance of some of the long time steamers. Thanks again to all who helped and advised me! The burner was partially reworked at the motel and allowed for much better running, but the lug in the back of the boiler needs to be opened up to allow a "tent" to be put over the burner. This would have taken her down too far at the steam-up so I put it off til I came home. So now I am starting all of these changes at the same time since most involve a total dis-assembly of the loco. I started with moving the fuel tank away from the cab, and relocating the lubricator to the old tank location. This tank location was orginally chosen because I wanted to drop the tank down and this was the only clear place for it to go through the cab floor. After getting the engine mostly together I began to hate the "big black box" hanging down where nothing should be. Plus it was getting too warm from the closeness to the lubricator steam line. So the tank goes to the back of the tender and the lubricator moves forward and left enough to stop draining it on the rear wheels. (another bad location choice) This also had the advantage of shortening the steam line from the 
boiler to the lubricator.







 
This is all for tonight, but hopefully work will be a little more regular on the engine now. There are still a lot of detail pieces to make and having everything apart will make some of them easier to deal with. ( sure am glad I have not painted her yet ! ) Having a place to work where I don't have to put everything away each night will help a lot as well.     More to come !
redbeard  AKA  Larry Newman


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Always nice to see progress Larry.  I have stuff to do that also requires complete disassembly... not looking forward to it. Always a daunting prospect.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Last night and tonight I got several small but time consuming things done. First I corrected a design flaw in my stack. This was all internal and I could not even get a picture to come out. Basically what I had done was to mount the stack using bolts through the flange into the smoke box. When I did this I did away with the Ruby mount completely. What I did not do was to run a tube down through the opening in the smoke box. This has been letting condensate and oil run down between the smoke box and the wrapper. So I turned a collar and soldered it to a tube that extends into the smoke box. I added an "air-gap insulation" to the inside of the smoke box door. Also did away with the "pocupine" of long bolts in the smoke box.








Then I addressed the burner. This is what I am using right now.








At some later date I may try and build a complete new burner rod, but not now. This seems to work quite well.
Next I built a couple of steps below the cab doors.








And now I am feeling the effects of a couple of extra long days, so I am calling it a night.
redbeard   AKA Larry


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry - looking good! 

The dreaded painting looms ahead - are you going for basic black? 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmmmmm Black ??? Maybe black and tan ???? 
Hi Bob ! 
No, the pirate loco will be a dark green. (eventually he he he!) 
Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I got  some more done on the pirate loco. While I had the boiler loose and the stack off the boiler I mounted a Trackside Details bell.








Then I started work on the hungry boards, or in this case the hungry bars. I just finished soldering the bits together and cleaning everything up. Thought I would post this now so that if I mess it up installing the control mounts (which will pass through between the cab and the first bar) I can at least prove I built  a pretty piece to start with!








Thats it for now, as soon as I mount the controls I will post a picture of them to explain what the heck I am talking about.
redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Got the control mounts soldered in without destroying the whole thing! Yipee!
At some point I will put a wood load over the top and cover the tender portion of the cab. This way the fuel and steam controls are easy to get to.








Next up will be door pull bars and door knobs!

redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the door pull bars made. I have to stop for a day or four because I am going to a steam-up at Norm Saley's this weekend. I will try and post pictures when I come back. For now here are the pull bars.








More later!
redbeard   AKA  larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Put everything back together so I can go run trains this weekend. Here is a picture showing the engine in front of a picture of my prototype. I also got the doorknobs made and mounted.








I will try and get some running shots posted when I get back home.
redbeard   AKA   Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I just got home from a steam-up at Norm and Ruth Saley's home in Orlando. 
          What a great time we had! 
    Thanks Norm and Ruth for hosting a wonderful day of steaming. 
The weather had threatened for days but cleared early Saturday morning and stayed clear (but a little windy) all day! Just cool enough for good steam plumes. I am struggling a little with a computer that was put together the day before I left, so I will only post one photo right now. I will try to start a new thread on the steam-up when I get my photo program "play nice" with my new system. For now here is my Mason bogie pulling a mixed load of cars on the Lake Margaret & Conway Railroad.








I'll try and get my system worked out by tomorrow and post pictures of a nice group of loco's.
redbeard   AKA  Larry Newman


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello all,
I built the springs and hangers on the rear truck today. I have put this off for a while because it is "decor" only and is fairly difficult to make. I am very close to painting the Mason now. I think just one more detail part, but that may change when I consider it with a fresher point of view. Today is going on 15 hours and I am sure I am overlooking something. Here is a picture of the springs-









That's it for tonight.
redbeard  AKA   Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

In between mowing the grass (ah Florida!) and making jewelry, I made the covers for the beam on the rear truck. 









I think I am down to two more pieces, a wood load for the tender and a "spit-elator" (sorry Bruce I am unsure of the spelling of this "word") or condensate tank for the exhaust to stop the popping and spitting in the smoke box. Can any of you tell me how large a tank for this purpose needs to be? Thanks in advance!
redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry - Think spit eliminator - hence, SPITINATOR!


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## Walt_Linn (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi all,  I am a newbie to live steam and the proud owner of a new Accucraft 2-cylinder shay.  I am facing the same issue as Larry right now with the spitting and popping in the exhaust.  
My brain is a little fuzzy when it comes to the operation of a condensate tank, so please help me understand. 
Does a condensate tank adversely affect the steam plume?  If it actively induces condensation by reducing the exhaust pressure and/or steam temperature, then it reduces the steam plume by the volume of water that collects in the tank, no?  I have no idea how much water/water vapor this would actually be.  Perhaps it is negligible compared to the total volume of steam in the plume in which case my concern is for naught.  

If the steam plume is unaffected by a condensate tank, then that seems like a great solution to the popping issue.

If the plume is affected, or if space for a tank is limited, then a lubricator modification looks like the way to go.

Dave Hottman lubricator mod: http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=23544&SearchTerms=nuts,lubricator

Pass-through vs. dead leg lubricator info: http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37456&SearchTerms=nuts,lubricator

Once again, please educate me. 

Walt


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Walt,
I also consider myself new to the hobby. I have been working on this engine since February 2007, but it my first locomotive of any type. I have changed to a regulated deadleg lubricator already. I feel that I have my oil consumption under contol. The problem that I have is mostly a problem with condensate dripping back down on the hot blast pipe in the smoke box. This is made many times worse since the Mason Bogie blast pipe can not extend up into the stack ddue to the movement of the front bogie. So when the engine is running straight, the exhaust blows straight out the stack with no problem. But when the engine is in a curve, the exhaust is directed at the side of the stack and/or the "petticoat" (under the stack inside the smokebox). The blast pipe has to stop with clearance between it and the "petticoat" so that the front can turn.  I can't post a picture of it now as I have it all out to machine a diverter to fasten to the exhaust port and send the exhaust down to a tank under the plate that the cylinders mount to. I may in fact cut back on the plume but the hot water pops are a little over the top for me. As soon as I get parts made I will post pictures of what I am doing. I remembered that a bunch of the guys I met at Diamondhead had dealt with the Accucraft 2 cylinder Shays with a tank type condensor that they came up with a name for. As Bruce mentioned here, he called it a "Spitinator". He also said they were written up in Steam in the Garden Magazine, but I don't know when. I will live with a reduced plume if I can hush-up the noise. Again I will post pictures when I have parts made.
redbeard   AKA Larry


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## Walt_Linn (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry,  oops... my oversight.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif  I missed seeing your post back in December when you replaced the lubricator.  

You really do make me feel quite humble you know.  You are relatively new to live steam... and your first locomotive is a Ruby bash... and a Mason Bogie bash at that... and it is a work of art... and you don't have machine tools!!!   It seems God created folks like you to inspire folks like me.  My hats off to you and keep up the outstanding work.

Walt


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Walt 
When I began this project I did not have any machine tools beyond a drill press, however I now know that this is only the first live steam locomotive I will build. So I have now purchased a 7X14 mini lathe, and am building a light duty milling machine. But machining processes are not new to me, my first after school job as a teen was in a machine shop. Processes are the same no matter what tools you have available. I worked for 3 different men who all had the philosophy that if you need a tool you don't have, first ask yourself if you can build one. This has been a great background for me in almost all of my endeavors. Having said that, Thanks for the compliment! I am gathering parts for two more locos already. (one of which will be a freelance steam rail truck) The best thing about the live steam community is that everyone I have met is happy to share their knowledge with you. 
redbeard AKA Larry


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi everybody!
I got my "Spitinator" built ! (Thanks Bruce for the info !) The first picture shows the diverter tube and the return exhaust tube.








The next picture shows the tank  mounted between the cylinders.








The tube coming forward is the drain for the tank. It runs into the pilot and will drip in the center of the triangle of the pilot. The next picture shows the new petticoat I built to try and get as much of the steam as I can up the stack. I have not done any finishing on this part since I have not steamed up to see how it all works.








I will need to build a new cover over the original Ruby 'reversing valve to clylinders' steam lines since the lines out of and back into the smokebox will not fit the first cover. As soon as I raise some steam and check everything I will build this, remount the pilot and take another picture.
redbeard  AKA  Larry


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow!! That is some kind of plumbing job! I 'll be anxious to hear how it works and if you get any chuff.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Winn, 
Good to hear from you. I got the "spitinator" finished and steamed up several times while adjusting this and that. The thing works very well...............BUT my loco now sounds like a sewing machine. No chuff at all. Now I have to decide whether the popping with a fair amount of chuff is more acceptable than the almost silent engine. Also with the condensing tank there is no waiting, as soon as you crack the steam valve she starts. But its sounds so wimpy. I will think about it before I decide, but I am leaning towards removing the condensing unit so my steam engine sounds like a steam engine. More later. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## NHSTEAMER (Jan 2, 2008)

Redbeard, 
Just a suggestion, but look into a bark Box (can be found on MLS and you can Hear it on YOUTUBE) I ordered 2 and from what I am told there is no spitting from the stack at startup and it adds a nice sound. He has made one for the ruby so it should fit the Mason.


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## alcashj94 (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
you might like to try something similar to what I have made on my Ruby Mason. 
Stops the spitting and also acts like a mini resonator box, it is certainly better than a straight pipe. Any condensate tends to stay in the chamber and is evaporated by the heat in the smokebox once you have the initial start up out of the way and the cylinders are warmed up. 
Allan.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi all, 
It's a busy time for me so I have not been here or worked on the loco for a few days. Thanks for the input! Bill, without seeing a bark box I can't see if it would work on the Ruby-MASON. I have a blast tube that moves a half inch to either side when the engine is in a turn. My spitting is caused by the exhaust hitting the top of the smoke box in turns. I had a similar resonator arrangement to the picture that Al posted.(good to hear from you Al !) BTW Al, how much movement do you have in your steam bogie? I am getting about 15 degrees after improvements. I had a decent chuff, but when turning you could see the plume cut off when the exhaust missed the stack. This was easily seen at Diamondhead in the LATE night runs when the air was cool. While I was building the condensor, I also made an oval funnel shaped petticoat forr the bottom of the stack. I have yet to try this with my original "resonator". (I built the spitinator first, should have done the petticoat first!) This weekend is a work weekend for me so I can't try anything till Sunday night as far as removing the "spitinator" and reinstalling my resonator with the new petticoat. When I first ran the Mason I had restricted the steam bogie turning radius enough that the exhaust was not missing the stack. Now I am trying to get more turning for tighter radius curves so the problem starts. Everything I do to the loco seems to create more room for improvement. More later. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By redbeard on 04/02/2008 10:12 AM
Everything I do to the loco seems to create more room for improvement. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956




It also gives those of us that will be following in your footsteps some insight as to what we might encounter too! 

Thanks! 

Chas


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## alcashj94 (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
I guess I have a similar ammount of movement on mine although I have not measured the angle.The exhaust pipe moves right away from the base of the chimney on my tightest curve which is an LGB radius 2 - 30inch radius curve. 

Here is a shot of it working round this bend, you can see by the position of the cylinder block how far the pipe has moved away from the stack, there is still visible steam coming out. In fact, the amount of side movement was what limited the diameter of tube I could use on my exhaust arrangement as it is almost touching the side of the smokebox. 

I have a fitting clamped to the steam chest with a straight pipe coming up into the smokebox, the exhaust assembly is then slid onto this stub from inside the smokebox so I can try different designs (they are too big to pass up through the slot in the base of the smokebox) and tried several before I settled on the one I am using. It's a compromise between stopping the water 'spits' and having some stack noise. You might like to try a similar arrangement as you can quickly swap tops whilst the loco is in steam and test away, maybe you will hit on a better solution!


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi everybody! 
I finally got a video up on You Tube of the Mason bogie running at Diamondhead. This was taken by my good freind Jim Sanders at about 10:30 one night. 

http://www.youtube.com/v/K-spBqz4LTk 

More pics soon. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
Yep, I was there and remember remarking what a clever way to keep the camera on the locomotive. But now that I see it on screen, I gotta think you're pulling the locomotive with a string  
Thanks for the video. It was one of the coolest locomotives there. Keep the pictures and videos coming, please.


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## coolhand (Jan 7, 2008)

Larry: Excellent work. You've done that in a matter of months and I've still got a Ruby/Forney conversion waiting to be finished after two years. 
Wait! I have been busy remodeling my house. Just about done though and have built the plat form on the end of the patio for one end of my RR.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

It also gives those of us that will be following in your footsteps some insight as to what we might encounter too! 

Thanks! 

Chas 

Hi Chas, 
I know exactly what you mean......if it were not for the goodness of the live steam community I would not be where I am on this loco. I need to thank all who have replied here and given suggestions, especially Al Cash! Al once again you have given me aa idea that I am running with. In order to use a tube in tube like you are, I had to move my stack. Part of the problem was that the exhaust port was not lined up with the stack. So any thing I did was complicated by the side to side movement PLUS had to step back about a half inch. So I moved my stack opening forward to line up with the exhaust, here is a picture of the new location with the old location shown in the inset. 

This meant blocking off the old location with a piece of brass, and making a new wrapper for the smoke box. Then I used Al's exhaust tube idea with my petticoat. Here is a picture. 

Just steamed her up, I think this will work out OK. Hard to tell on the bench........I really need a track here. Thanks again for the comments and more later! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

HMMM.... 
I don't know why pics won't show. Here are the addresses if youwant to cut and paste. 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/redbeard/Onward Build Log/stack moved.jpg 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/redbeard/Onward Build Log/new exhaust.jpg 
I figured it out. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi everybody, 
Added a small drain tube to the exhaust tube. Al, you said try things, well this REALLY quieted down the spits and pops even when first starting up. As I said in earlier post, I think the chuff is good. On rollers it is really hard to tell. I added the tube to your drawing here. 

And a picture. 

Instead of the condensate evaporating when the smoke box gets hot, I added a small drain tube to the bottom of the larger tube. I was able to solder a piece of 1/8" square brass to the inside of the cover I built to hide the Ruby reverser valve and copper tubes. The small tube drops into a hole in the top of the square tube and everything drips out on the middle of the track. 

No more water on the drivers or on top of the locomotive ! Now maybe I am real close to painting her! More to come 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956!


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the wood load made for the tender section of the Mason. I finished it a couple of days ago, but I have been making some changes to my computer and was offline for a day or so. Anyway here is a picture of the wood load. 








This was the last thing on my list of things to do before I disassemble the engine for painting. There are a few things that need to be done that were best put off till the disassembly begins. No big things, a lot of unfinished edges that need smoothing up. I am also going to modify a couple of things while they are out of the loco. I am also considering adding a sight glass to the back of the boiler. I'm not sure if it would be visible enough to be worth the effort. So she is soon to have color! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## alcashj94 (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
glad the exhaust tube is working for you, I think half the fun is in working round these little problems and coming up with a solution - keeps the mind going! 
I fitted a gauge glass to my Ruby boiler but there were a couple of problems and it has never been very reliable. Main thing to do is have a separate tapping into the boiler for the top glass fitting. I originally tapped into the end of the manifold but the way the manifold is fitted to the Ruby boiler with the hollow bolt, which has a very small steam passage, means that when the throttle is opened the easyest route for the steam is via the much larger gauge glass. This results in the throttle sucking all the water from the boiler and the loco not running very well!! As you suggest, the glass is not that easy to see inside an enclosed cab and I found it not much practicle use. 
I have recently fitted an electronic water level indicator to mine which lights up a red LED when the probe is uncovered so you know it is time for a water top up, mine is made in the UK but is similar to the Bill Ford system available in the US - the BF system can also include an electric pump which is triggered by the probe so the water level is taken care of automatically. Several people have posted on this system and I think it is the way to go. 
Looks like you are on the last lap now, guess you will have to think of another project soon! 
Allan.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Al, 
The painting will be a long careful process, so I knew I needed another project as I approached this point. I actually have 2 more in the parts collecting stage, and another Ruby kit of yet to be determined plans. The next engine will be a freelanced steam powered rail truck. I bought a Midwest boiler and single cylinder engine kit at the "flea market" at Diamondhead in January. I will start on it at some point during the painting process. Thanks for the input and comments. 

redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Everybody! 
I am still here! I have had a time with business in this economy and have not worked on the pirate loco very much. Took a little time this weekend and began the disassembly to prepare for painting. She sure doesn't look the same as a pile of parts! The box is full of labeled bags of screws to try and keep things straight. 








Now I have to figure out which pieces need a bit more work, decide which pieces will be what color, clean and degrease everything, prepare surfaces, and paint everything. Then I will have a painted pile of parts! 
More Later! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow!! That looks pretty scary. I hope it all goes back together for you. I'm not really looking forward to doing that job on mine. Can't wait to see yours all done.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry, 
Make sure you paint the screws so you can have a true Ruby kit to put back together! It is amazing to see the box of bags and parts that it takes to make a beautiful work of art.


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## SalM (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry....will you have her painted and ready for the show in Tallahassee on June 21th....we would like to show it off to the millions who will attend, well maybe hundreds that will attend.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Sal, 
The Tallahassee show is what prompted me to get the process rolling. I do plan on having the pirate loco together and in attendance at the Tallahassee show. Will sent me a flyer for the show and told me to be sure and let you know if I plan on coming. So I can now say that this is all Will and Sal's fault! Just kidding! I am looking forward to coming over with a finished (I hope!) Mason Bogie. I will e-mail you also. Thanks! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I have to admit, as I took the locomotive apart I thought how easy it would be to leave it in brass. But I really want to see it finished so here I go. First was to sort parts into groups based on the final color. Most parts will be Hunter Green, but there will be a few black parts, and the boiler jacket will be ???. Have the idea but not the name! And a small number of pieces will not be painted. Then I have to degrease (or de-steam oil) every thing. Next I will soak brass parts in white vinegar. Finally I will prime, let dry, color coat and bake. 

OK Bruce, I am painting ALL the nuts and bolts! I made this plate to hold onto them while painting and baking. This is the first group, very small group that is only painted on one side. These are the door knobs and they are polished brass. But the threads and nuts are painted to blend in with the inside of the cab. I made the plate large enough that I can do all of the green bolts in two batches. Then all of the black bolts can be done in one batch. Even so its a long process. So it may be a while before the next posting. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry, 
ALRIGHT! I just knew you were going to do it right!


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

FINALLY ! 
The first major piece of the loco is now GREEN! Doesn't seem like much of a start, but it's the procedure that it represents. Now all the other parts can be done the same way. 

redbeard AKA Larry SA#1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello all, 
Well here is the next batch of parts fresh out of the oven. This represents a full days work - cleaning, prepping, priming, painting, and baking. The next batch needs a little "body work" before paint so it will take a bit longer. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA#1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello all, 
Well here is the next batch of parts fresh out of the oven. The first part that's not green......the stack is flat black. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA#1956


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

You're going to do that loco proud, Larry!


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

So far I'm amazed! Looking good. 


I've been thinking on some parts for mine! Gotta get in touch with folks and get a couple things for my kit. 

Chas


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## modlmkr (Jan 3, 2008)

Are these parts being power coated, or are you baking the paint? Could you give some details of your painitng process?


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## chooch (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By redbeard on 05/27/2008 3:13 PM
Hello all, 
Well here is the next batch of parts fresh out of the oven.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi modlmkr, 

The bare brass pieces are scuffed with a scotch-brite pad during the fitting and soldering stage. Since the engine has been run a good bit there is a lot of cleaning to do. First I clean with plain old dish detergent and water. Then I scrub with a concentrated household degreaser.(right now I'm using ZEP) Rinse well. Then a dip in white vinegar, rinse and dry with clean towel. (and very clean hands!) I stack the parts on a sheet of aluminum and put a 100 watt light down over them for about 20 minutes. This insures no drops of water sneaking out as you paint. I am using regular Krylon spray cans. I prime one side, (grey primer) let it sit for 12 minutes, turn it over and prime the other side. After twelve minutes I spray a color coat. I use the same process to put on two coats of color. Then I bake the parts in a small kiln (I am a jeweler by trade) at 295 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours. I turn the oven off and let it cool down to room temperature before I open it. Sounds real good, but this is the first time I have painted brass so it will be a while before I know anything about durability. The stack and smoke box are done the same way with Krylon flat black. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA#1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Today's batch of painted parts is mostly flat black. This is the smoke box door and hinges, smoke box wrapper, the ash box, the petticoat for the stack, a large batch of green bolts and a couple of spacer blocks. More to come! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

Looking good! Are you planning to come to the train show in Tallahassee in June? 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Bob! 
Yes I am planning on bringing my newly painted Pirate Mason Bogie Ruby-bash to the Tallahassee show. Hopefully I will not bring a box of green and black parts. Going to try real hard to have her running by then. 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow! Getting access to my web space was tough! Anyway I will try and post a single picture now. The re-assembly HAS BEGUN! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm Back! 
I have been working on the road with no computer to post with, but I had the pirate loco with me to work on the reassembly. Here is where I am right now. 








I am pushing myself so I can take her to a show in Tallahassee, FL this weekend. So far so good! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA #1956


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

She look GREAT Larry!!!


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice Larry 

chuckger


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

I remember doing the 'Krylon Hustle' to get my streamliner ready for Diamondhead. We look forward to seeing you and the pirate loco in Tallahassee this weekend! I hope all goes smoothly with the reassembly. 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks everybody! 
I am looking forward to running a little this weekend in Tallahassee. I will get as much done today as I can and pack her up for the trip over to see all the Tallahassee steamers. I have raised steam this weekend to be sure all was back in the right place before I started putting the sheet metal back on. So I know she will at least boil water! 
redbeard AKA Larry SA#1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh Yeah! 
I have all the pieces back on the loco and none left over! I guess that means it is finished......well not quite- no lettering yet. But I am going to take the pirate loco to Tallahassee whether it is lettered or not. Here are some pictures of "my Ruby!" 




































Here I come Tallahassee club! 

redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

The Tallahassee crew will be happy to host the first 'in public' runs of the completed Pirate locomotive. After all, Tallahassee was the site of one of the first powered runs (at Sal's track). 

See you this weekend! 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Talk about the last minute! 
The logos are on and I am packing everything to head for Tallahassee. 










I hope to get pictures of the pirates doing their thing in Tallahassee! 

redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

The pirates ran the locomotive this weekend at the Tallahassee Model Railroad Show this weekend. The show was great and all that came had to enjoy the large variety of scales and other railroad items. I know I did! Thank you Big Bend Model Railroad Association for putting on a great show and inviting me to show off ..... I mean run my locomotive. Special thanks to Harold, Mike, and Will for letting me pull their cars. I guess I need to start working on my own rolling stock. Thanks Bill, Bob, Mike, Sal, and Will for inviting me over. I had a GREAT time! 
Here are a couple of pictures of the pirates pulling some of Harold Dunsford's beautiful work cars. 




















And if I can do this right.............. 



Sorry for the low quality, I do not have a video camera, this was done with my regular digital camera. Thanks again guys! 


redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA#1956


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Way to go Larry, 
I'm very happy to see that your locomotive runs as good as it looks. It has been a fun project to follow for the past many months and I'm glad I had the chance to see it in person at Diamondhead earlier this year. What's next???


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Carl, 
Thanks a lot! I really enjoyed meeting a lot of you as a steamer this year instead of just the jeweler. At the Diamondhead "flea market" this year I bought a Midwest boiler and engine kit to build a rail truck. I know that Howard Maculsay is building a similar truck and posting it, but that is my next-est project. I actually have two more projects begun as far as the parts collecting stage is concerned. Another Ruby bash and a total scratch build that is just tubes and grand ideas so far. Your logging loco at Diamondhead takes a backseat to no one! I am also getting "stuff" together for building and bashing rolling stock. Got a few goodies at the Tallahassee show and from my friend Will Davis to get a good start on this. So...... more more more to come! 
redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry, 
It looks great pulling those cars! 
Now that you have it operational I think Bob Pope needs inquires regularly, from you, about his latest creation and its progress. I have an interest since I need to determine if an upgrade will be required in the drawbar equipment for next Diamondhead for his new "Diseasel".


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## Bob Pope (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 
It was great to see you again - the pirate loco ran perfectly and looked terrific. Thanks for getting it ready for our show! It was hard to believe your locomotive started out life as a Ruby. 

Hi Bruce, 
I have all the parts for a new Diesel. And I've completed all the test stand work, so now I can start building. It will basically be an up-rated version of my current P-1. The 'P-2' will have a .21 engine instead of a .15, and alternator instead of a generator, and will use the new Aristocraft 2-axle trucks with the large 550 motors. I think your drawbar equipment will be fine! But you might need to talk to some of the steam guys - Charlie, Larry, and Ed. I hear they have some tricks up their sleeves... 

Bob


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello everybody! 
As much as I have enjoyed this post, this will be my last post on this locomotive build. I am FINISHED with my first locomotive!! 
AND it runs well! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif 
So I am going to post this today and I will be back soon with my next addition to the pirate railroad. Since I did not have a high speed connection when I posted the movie from Diamondhead, I only posted part of it to you-tube. Here is the entire video from Diamondhead, Mississippi in January. Please note that it is fairly long. 



Many thanks to Jim Sanders for staying up late to record this and then put it on a cd for me. Lots and lots of thanks to all the good friends I have met through building this locomotive. You are all responsible for infecting me with live steam! (And I couldn't be happier!) Here is a final picture of my Ruby to Mason Bogie conversion. 









I am sure that I may change a few things in the future and I may post a picture or two if I change anything big, but it's time for me to move on to the next steamer. To all the Diamondhead crowd... I'll see you in 2009 and I will bring the finished Mason to run. I have decided that my "weathering" process is going to be running it untill it looks weathered. Thanks for all the online suggestions and answers to questions. Talk to you all soon! 
redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA#1956 /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, Congratulations on finishing your Bogie!!! Tha is a nice piece of work. I have taking a break from my Bogie to do some other things including installing RC on my Ruby/Forney and my C16. The Forney is very easy to control, the C16 I haven't run yet, but it runs so well without RC that I'm sure it will be very controlable with the RC.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the posting of the video and the entire process on your excellent locomotive.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

Ha! 
Fooled you! Bet you thought you wouldn't see this post again! I finally decided to see about some "real" decals for the Mason. So I e-mailed Stan Cedarleaf and asked him a bunch of questions, got a bunch of answers by e-mail, then a phone call and a very thorough tutorial on how to do what I wanted. Man, what a nice guy! THANK YOU Stan! So here are the new decals on the Mason, what a difference!





















I can't tell you guys how helpful Stan was, my only regret is that I did not do this when I first painted the engine. And I also have new decals for the railtruck. (installed soon I hope) 

Thanks Stan!

redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA # 1956


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, great looking locomotive, Larry..... Great job.

Thanks for the kind works. It sure helps when there's an open line of communication as we've had...

Thank you.


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## redbeard (Jan 2, 2008)

And one more in front of a picture of the prototype.










redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry,
Your most recent picture says it all.
What a beauty !!!


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