# LGB Stainz, any model years to avoid



## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hello. A friend lent me his LGB Stainz engine for a few weeks. After about 5 min realize I need on for my own. Have a small curvy outdoor layout an this 0-4-0 handled the curves great. No issues with the LGB 1200 turnouts ether.

Looks like their is a good supply of used units for sale. Is there any particular model I should get or avoid. Are all LGB Stainz equal?


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I think the main points would be whether you want sound and / or smoke, as you'd be better off paying a bit more to find one where it's included (or already been added.)

At some point LGB switched from metal to molded plastic side rods. Don't think it impacts the performance either way.

The number molded into the side of the cab is a measure of vintage (though I don't know what it correlates to, if it does.)

Both of mine are number three, and I've had no problems. Three complaints: using track power, smoke doesn't work unless you turn the power close to full, at which point it's too fast; lamps are not constant brightness (meaning they change as the speed changes); and sound has no volume control.

Good models, they cope well with R1, and they pull a lot.


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Will be using track power. Smoke unit would be nice, could go ether way with sound. 

Seams like a good engine what would be reliable. At max would be pulling 4 cars.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The early Stantz locos, made in Germany were bullet proof. I don't have any of the later ones made elsewhere so I can't answer about their reliability.

Chuck

It has been a while, but I don't think that Stantz that came in sets had smoke. If they were bought as a separate item, they had smoke. All of my Stantzs came in sets and none have smoke. My preference is to disconnect the smoke if it doesn't have a switch. Between the odor and lack of output I have found the smoke less that inspiring.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

The later stanizes have constant voltage headlights, look for the clear bi pin bulb instead of the rounded yellow bulb in the headlight. The molded plastic side rods are more prototypical to the real engine in thier style, espicaly the Allen straight link valve motion. I have one of the older 2020 Stainz #2's and it runs flawlessly. Parts are easy to find, has no smoke, which is fine with me. It can be upgraded with a smoke unit if I wanted one. Find one you like and go for it. Mike


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## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

The Stainz I have on loan is from a circus set and is late 80's early 90 (best guess). It has metal side rods. Very heavy with normal headlight (dim at low speeds) has a lever under the engine by cow catcher you can move to activate a smoke unit.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Several sets did have engines with smoke. The work train set I have has smoke which I bought in 2002.
Latest 72403 set has smoke.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The Stainz I have (got to have at least one) is numbered #20212 made in Germany. It is the common color of green cab with a red base with the spark arrester on the stack. Apparently from the construction set marked 2004. It has a printed number '2' with plastic rods, sound and smoke.
The 72403 model is exactly the same except made in Hungary. Both have the 'D' motor block with a cover plate for lubing.
Earlier ones like #2020 up to the 80's are similar looking but no smoke or sound with metal rods and a raised number have split motor blocks to access the gears.

Don't forget to look at the Americanized Porter version from the 80's which has a split motor block and metal rods, no smoke or sound. They came in sets with a pair of 2 axle cars with wooden siding. 

Andrew


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## Sampug394 (Dec 30, 2010)

I have one 1983 2010D #1 Stainz with a chocolate brown cab, and it has been a reliable, pull-anything workhorse and the genesis of my G gauge collection. Finally replaced the original motor in it a few months ago after _thirty-one_ years of service - That's what I call reliability!

Train-LI and various people on eBay source replacement parts if you need 'em. I personally beleive that the older stainzes made before the new generation (1991? 2000s?) are superior. Absolutely solid runners. Keep em lubed and greased and taken care of, and they'll run forever.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

I have 8 Stainz, made between 1982 to 2009, and a representation of all eras, (except the 1968 growlers-which are collectible, if only one axel drive-probably not the one you want to start with-the have a round vent on the roof and tiny little headlights to help you spot). I too have a soft spot for the metal rod versions, but only because they were my first 'true love'.



Simply, all eras are superb and robust. I prefer the newer models with the more details rods and gearing, visually. The late versions, ie about 2000, finally have the rods and valves that the real Stainz has. The plastic rods are strong, and robust. I would not worry about this from a strength/longevity standpoint. Another significant virtue of a 'modern' stainz, ie 1988 or later, is a 'sandwich' or D motor block assembly-these allow for simple lubrication of gears by simply removing the cover, and adding lube. The older 'clamshell' versions require complete disassembly of the motor block to access the gears. Clean old lube, add a MODEST amount of plastic compatible grease-you're good for another ten years). 



Here's some info to help you:

generally, and assuming you don't want to tinker or to search for bargain parts, 

don't buy a fixer-upper-don't buy one that looks like its had a tough life-look for wear on the skates and wheels as a general, but not foolproof, indicator of usage.



You will get scalped in bits and pieces parts pricing -ie parts are often hugely overpriced (compared to a few years back). Some parts are extremely difficult to find, and others, the ones you don't need, are common and still expensive.



Wheels for the older split shell engines are virtually impossible to source. These are the ones that screw onto the axel. So, the rule, imho, would be not to buy one with excessively worn wheels. What does that mean, look for bright plating, and run away from any sign of the underlying brass being exposed-brass means a lot, really a lot, of running. Motors too have become expensive, and in this sense, paying more for one in like new condition may be a better bet. There are many used ones that are great, but you need to look carefully. Avoid any hint of rust anywhere-like metal rods-why? because it is likely that the motor may have corrosion issues too. Trust me on this one. A new motor can cost up to $100, and typically, now around $60+.



Secondly, as noted starter sets engines don't have a smoke unit. The newer sets, with the modern rods, AND easily identified by the PAINTED ON cab number (older ones are raised and embossed) the #3 is the more stripped down version-no smoke, non directional lights, no lighting plug-the #2 is the luxury version with smoke and plug. IMHO there is little difference but the plug aspect, if you use them as do I.



Stainz factory sound, imho, is typically terrible, really bad-more like rubbing sandpaper than a loco-there was a brief period where some had decent sound-they are the less common.



Stainzs are not that difficult to dismantle, but, and a big one at that, you need to have a schematic if you have never done this. They have a certain order in which things need to be 'undone'. Once you understand this, while having a fair lot of parts, they are pretty straightforward. FWIW, I often need to rework things, as don't do it frequently enough to remember every little trick. Never force. If you have to force, your missing something. Everything fits perfectly, and if it doesn't , you have missed something and need to go back and check.



Overall , I would suggest also considering those used ones in sets, provided you can get a good look at the loco, as I have found these, in my experience offer the best value and condition, on a very very general basis.



I would also suggest considering a 2015, the two motor tendered version. Equally superb, and better electrical pick up if you use the electrical tether between loco and tender. The 2105 is indeed much better in an earlier version, as the late ones and current ones, do not have the powered tender. Powered tenders tend to be offered for very high prices used. There are exceptions, but this is what I have seen.



If you buy a stainz, in good condition, from any era, you will not be disappointed. 

They all run superbly, and anything pre marklin weighs about the same as any era LGB. At some point, I think around 2006 or so, the lead used for weights changed to some slightly lighter alloy due to health laws. The difference is de minimus, imho. I don't own a marklin stainz-i presume they too are identical, and superb, but, the big difference is value and price.



If you have to add a smoke unit, try to find an 18 v version, as the 24 v versions need more juice and powered resulting in high loco speed as mentioned. Add on, smoke units are expensive. My 18 volts versions smoke around 10-12 volts-that's a pretty good clip for the loco, but not Indy 500 speeds.



good hunting!


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## Sampug394 (Dec 30, 2010)

Can certainly vouch for the difficulty of fixer-upper stainzes. Few years ago I wound up with an old 1976 unit for free, dark green cab, that was in pretty rough shape. Dead wheels, dead contacts, and a tired motor. Poor thing had seen too much run time and was inevitable parted out and mostly sold since new wheels were impossible to acquire. (of course a year after this decision, spare wheelsets pop up on ebay...) Kept some spare bits just in case the 1983 stainz may need something cosmetic. And yes, a new Buhler motor cost $70 from Train-LI, but it breathed new life into my little workhorse. Some things are worth the premium...


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Regarding the post by Steve, some starter sets do have the smoke, directional lights and electrical socket. I have two of these passenger sets, and the loco has all this and sound. I don't really know how good the sound is, compared to other models or aftermarket sound (just too little exposure, not recent enough.)

I also think a used set can be a good value, as you can always sell off any parts you don't need.

LGB starter set-7 by BigRedOne45mm, on Flickr


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## Tom Leaton (Apr 26, 2008)

Steve was right about the first year growlers--you can spot one by its visibly smaller headlight. Early 2020s had two marklin style plugs om the back of the cab for passenger car lighting; later a single plug style was adopted. We got ours 38 years ago at Christmas and its still runs like a watch.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

BigRedOne said:


> Regarding the post by Steve, some starter sets do have the smoke, directional lights and electrical socket. I have two of these passenger sets, and the loco has all this and sound. I don't really know how good the sound is, compared to other models or aftermarket sound (just too little exposure, not recent enough.)
> 
> I also think a used set can be a good value, as you can always sell off any parts you don't need.
> 
> LGB starter set-7 by BigRedOne45mm, on Flickr


you're quite right, and I really shouldn't have made the generalization 
my own first sets , one euro passenger and another euro freight, circa 1988 both had smoke and directional lights, sockets etc.
it seems this was the norm, and then later, they got a bit Spartan and now back nice looking red and black Stainz


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Here is my little mid 70's era Stainz #2 with the drivers held on by screws and a sandwich style gear box. She is like the enigizer bunny, just keeps going and going. Bout the only thing I have done is replace track skates when they get worn. I got her with the work train style starter set with the yellow Matra crane car and the low side gon with the MB Unimog on it. Cheers Mike and Michele T


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