# New 0-6-0 in service



## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I just recently completed RC battery conversion on my Accucraft brass1/29 0-6-0. It is equipped with a Airwire G3 decoder and Phoenix P8 sound. The decoder,P8 and speaker are in the loco. Removeable battery,on/off and fuse are in the tender. Stan Cedarleaf decals and weathering with Bragdon powders completed the project. Great running little loco. It weighs about nine lbs. so has plenty of pulling power. Here are a few photos.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm really happy with that loco, seems AML took some advice and put a suitable motor instead of the typical pittman.

Notice the motor has cooling vents?

As always Paul, a beautiful and realistic looking railroad with realistic and detailed rolling stock.

Regards, Greg


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

That came out really nice.

Tommy
Rio Gracie


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Fantastic, Paul... 

It looks so very much like the real thing..


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Looks great! I love seeing smaller steam locos in 1:29. 

You may have mentioned this in the past, but what are you using for ballast, and are you doing anything to bond it in place? I experimented with a "sand" of similar size, but one rain and it was all over the place. That's just got such a great look to it.

Later,

K


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin,
The ballast is a blend of products,no set formula. I use something here that they call bridge topping, grey blast, # 1 chicken grit and sometimes a little paver sand. Most of it is not bonded and I do have some washing in winter. The yard area in the photos is all flat so it stays in place. My track is attached to concrete roadbed. Where the roadbed is wide enough beyond the ties I use some concrete adhesive just squirted directly on the concrete and then put the ballast down. Plastic condiment dispensers work well for the adhesive. Its that stuff you can buy by the gallon at the big box stores. What doesn't work is bonding the ballast over dirt. That is always a disaster.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

As a side note, I've been.trying to figure out what Manufacture Minerals (Renton, Wa) uses bridge topping for commercial purposes. They sell it in 50 &100 pound bags, so some sort of industrial use is likely. The first time I walked in based on a recommendation from TOC, I asked if they had small crushed rock. After I explained that this was for a model railroad, I was shown a huge selection of various rock all smaller than 1/4". If I can figure out the real purpose of this rock, it might be easier to find suppliers around the country. 
Craig


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig,
Maybe just call Manufacture Minerals and ask them who they sell it to.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

That would be way to easy Paul! Have you looked at variety of different choices that they have?


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

I really, really, really like your weathering. It is so easy (and common) to overdo the weathering on the locomotives. Yours shows service, but not neglect. Congratulations.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig,
It is amazing how many different colors and textures of rock that they have. My personal thought on the bridge topping is that it is used just as the name implies,as a topping on bridges that need additional winter traction. In fact going east on I-90 a few years ago on one of the bridges near Coeur d'Alene Idaho they were doing some work and there were several people with five gallon buckets hand spreading what looked to me like bridge topping mix. Maybe some substance underneath to bond it?


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Paul, while your new baby is impecible looking. ..I was really excited to view your new freight house used as a great back drop for the scenes here!!

What great additions they both add to your layout!!

Thanks for sharing here.

Dirk


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

For those that live outside the Pacific Northwest, Manufacturer Minerals now has a website. http://www.manminco.com/ 
From the looks, it seems pretty new and basic, however it establishes a point of contact for people to find them other than by word of mouth!
My dad (retired Civil Engineer, who actually worked a few blocks away from MM) thinks that it might be used in concrete mix, but he was just guessing. Your idea sounds just as plausible, but why would they only fill 50 & 100# bags? You would think an industrial use would require a much larger bag?
Craig


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Dirk,
Here is another shot that is good for the freight shed. For those not familiar with the freight shed, the basic structure was built by Daniel Peck. I did the finish work on the one I purchased from him. Here is the link.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/15-model-making/28346-new-building-i-working.html


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Say..is one of your house bridges removable...going indoors??


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Dirk,
The one on the far right will lift out but I hardly ever do it. It is easy to duck under.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok guys. I never mentioned the vanderbilt tender. Kind of wanted to see if anyone noticed. These Accucraft 1/29 0-6-0's only came with a standard tender either coal or oil. I wanted to see if anyone thought the tender looked a little small. I guess it passed ok. It is a Accucraft 1/32 tender from a live steam 0-6-0 modified for my battery operation. About all I did is raise it about 1/4" with larger wheels and a bushing on the top of the trucks and of course the wiring. What I really want is the larger tender from one of the new Accucraft M-6 locos. It would match up a lot better but so far absolutly no luck in finding one.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Paul....silly of us to pass on that!!
It looks like it's a go...

Same color n weathering..
Same number as the loco...
Looks like it ....belongs..

It works great...

...only option is to build one than.....
Now ya let the cat out..!!

Nope it looks great!!!!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I noticed the tank looked a tad skinny, but it's a switcher and my SP info isn't strong enuf for a comment.
Besides, she's purdy! and you did another great job! I'd rather say that.
John


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## Manu (Feb 26, 2012)

hello
I think the engine looks great, the tender would me to my loco really liked it.
I also own an AML 0-6-0 with a Pittman motor, what is the problem with the engine?
My locomotive is equipped with an ESU sound decoder XL4.0, there is a problem that the locomotive sometimes does not respond and I have a feeling that the decoder is too warm.
I would like to have me buy a Second
greeting
Manuela_


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

LOOKS GREAT!
Nice Job you did.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Mark,
It's the one I purchased from you about three years ago. Been sitting ever since while I tried to find a tender. If you come across one of the M-6 tenders let me know.


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## daveyb (Feb 28, 2009)

agree the weathering is just great,,, makes all the difference, especially with those body mounted couplers
so much better


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## scottemcdonald (Jan 11, 2008)

Kevin,

Check out this link. http://www.alliancegator.com/2011/gator-polymeric-sand/ We have some WVMGRS members who are using this with great success, and you know how the winters in VA and MD can be. Take care,

Scott


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Paul,

Very nice model as usual, I was wondering as I read along about the tender thinking wondering were it came from of brass. I've been waiting for two of the AML 1/29 scale Vanderbilt tenders to be produced (pre-ordered). Hard to wait seeing how your 0-6-0 looks on the rail...


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael,
Hate to say it but Accucraft is not going to produce the 1/29 tender. Not enough pre-orders. Thats why I settled for what I did. The tender from an M-6 would be better.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks, Scott. I've used the Gator Dust product for my roads on my railroad (based on a recommendation from the guys out your way) and they've held up very well over the years. 










For the Gator Dust roads, I've found you have best results if you lay it down around 3/8 - 1/2" thick. Spread it, wet it, and let it dry for a day. It'll harden up, but still remain a touch flexible to withstand freeze/thaw cycles. After 5 years, I've got some areas that need resurfacing (mostly where I laid the stuff down too thin) but other than that, it's held up very well, including a lot of foot traffic, as my roads double as access paths for switching operations. 

I haven't tried using the stuff for bonding ballast, as I'm generally too much of a wimp to risk breaking/replacing ties with some of the extreme freeze/thaw movement I have on the railroad. Typically, I can re-ballast my entire railroad with all of a $7 investment of crusher fines every Spring, so at $30/bag of the Gator Dust, it's not really cost effective to do so. Lowe's is now selling a similar product at about half the cost, though I've not actually seen the product itself, just the black bucket in which it comes. I've got a few areas where I want to experiment with bonded ballast on some steeper slopes where I usually have a lot of washing away that I might try this stuff. Not next to the track--that I still want to "float" in the ballast--but for a few inches outside of the track where I have to keep filling the stuff in over the season. With the convention coming to town this coming Summer, I'm on the fence as to how much "new" I want to experiment with (and risk something going horribly wrong) or stick with what I know works for the convention and experiment after the crowds go home.

Later,

K


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## richg (Oct 22, 2011)

*0-6-0 tender*

Hello Paul-You switcher looks great.I was going to try and convert a Arsto Vandy tender.Do you know what the wheel base on SP 0-6-0 Vandy tender is and also what the length is. Also what would it be in 1/29 scale.Thanks Richard


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Rich, welcome to the forum. 

A basic rule of many forums is do not post to an old thread, but start a new one, so you get more attention. 

To get the 1:29 dimensions, divide the prototype by 29.

Do not be afraid to start a new thread with a subject line people will notice like "vandy tender for SP 0-6-0"

Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

richg,
I'm not sure what dimensions you want. Prototype or my 1/32 model. S.P had many versions of tenders. I also thought about using a cut down Aristo vandy but it is just too big to work with for the 0-6-0. I did use cut down Aristo vandy tenders for my 2-8-0's that came out nice.


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## richg (Oct 22, 2011)

Paul,
I was looking for the prototype dimensions of a SP 70-c-9 tender.I have looked on the internet and can not find anything also have a book on SP switchers but it has pictures only.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Rich,

SP S10 #1200 series 0-6-0 Switchers often used the 47-C, 52-C and 70-C cylindrical tenders.

70-C dimensions:
28'-3.5" overall length, 10'-2.5" overall width, 12'-11" overall height with 8' diameter tank and 33" wheels on 5'-6" centers together with 12'-6 3/4" between the truck pivot points.

Michael


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## richg (Oct 22, 2011)

Michael, 
Thanks so much just what I was looking for. Richard


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

richg,
Glad Michael was able to help you. We are away on vacation. Here is a link to some photos of my Aristo 2-8-0's with kitbashed Aristo vandy tenders.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/15-model-making/20388-two-s-p-2-8-0-s-better-than-one-pics.html


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Paul,

Your 2-8-0's are sweet... The 0-6-0 is no slouch either. 

I have a kit bashed A/C tender for my SP P-10 #2485 had to shorten it and rework the oil bunker shape/size and look. Its still BIG...

I need a Vandy for my 0-6-0 project, need to find something!

How was Marty's?

Michael


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## richg (Oct 22, 2011)

Paul,
Thanks for the pictures you have a very,very nice layout would like to see it one day. Your tenders look great and I think a converted Aristo tender would look big behind a 0-6-0. Maybe try building a scratch built tender?

Thanks,Richard


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Richg,
It probably wouldn't hurt to pester Accucraft about the tender. They were after all going to make one. Just not enough preorders. I was very lucky to come up with the one I have. Not perfect, but works for now.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael,
The Aristo vandy tenders are big. I did everything I could to lower it so it would look ok with the 2-8-0. Making it shorter was not too hard. Converting to an oil bunker did take a little work. My next project might be a generic northern kitbashed from Aristo Pacifics. I would use my Sierra Cascade & Pacific roadname so it wouldn't have to follow a prototype.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

Beautiful layout Paul! This must be one of the first time I see a really nice scale looking layout in 1/29th scale with a class one railroad theme. congratulations, I have really been looking for it. Although I prefer 1/32 myself. I like that gondola it seems to be lengthened to scale length.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Gee, last post on this was way over a year ago. The gondola is a Aristo freelance kitbash to about 52'. Not hard to do but it will take two to get one. I did three of them. I have seen others done in a similiar way. There still are no long gondolas available in 1/29. Never did understand that since they are so common.


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

One of the problems I have experienced here in France with bonded ballast is the invasion of moss in the bonded ballast. It is nearly impossible to get out. I have one curve where I bonded ballast around some plastick tie track. but the moss spreads in and is impossible to get out (I have tried moss inhibiting chemicals and even brushing it off with a tooth brush in the summer), but the roots stay in and next winter its there again.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

?? revive a year old thread?

You did compliment the author, but why revive it?

Now change the topic to bonded ballast? And moss invading it?

????????????????

Greg

p.s. get some real herbicide, moss is easy to kill with chemicals... roundup works here in the US, you can look up glyptophosphate or whatever is the active ingredient


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
I don't mind the question about moss. In fact, I just purchased some moss spray two days ago for my annual spray along the right of way. Living in the northwest moss can be a problem. just like weeds if not controlled. I buy a spray concentrate for roofs and walkways. It does the job. I envy your weather where you live. Just blew through your neigborhood a few weeks ago after returning from Mexico with friends down the hill from you.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Heck Paul, too bad you couldn't drop by!

So moss spray only affects moss?

Isn't the area well enough defined to just use a general herbicide?

Yeah, the weather has been just like summer for weeks now. Fall was mild and we really have not had winter, and I don't expect we will.

Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
Moss is kind of a different animal. A general herbicide like roundup will kind of work but not really well. The moss spray will kill whats there and prevent any new growth for close to a year, so its kill and treat. The key with moss is don't let it get started. Even if you kill it, the dead brown stuff will stay. Doesn't look good in the ties. I use roundup or a lawn weed killer and casoran for general weed prevention. Maybe if this weed talk goes on we should start another thread. Here is an old photo that shows some sprayed track,some dead moss and some live moss. You can see the roadbed is clear, it was treated. In the bacground the brown is dead moss that looks like dead weeds. and some of the green is live moss. Good in the landscape but bad on track.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Paul,
Have you tried Tide Laundry powder for moss control on the layout? I've been using it on my roof for the past 10+ years as a moss control. Cheaper than the moss killer products, and I think it works good. I sprinkle it on my house roof just before a nice PNW rainy day. 
Craig


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig,
That's a new one to me.


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## work4fil (Jan 4, 2008)

I too, have heard using Tide powdered detergent to deter, kill moss. What I wondered about with Tide is whether it foams up, when it rains hard.

Fil


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

My guess is that it will foam only with a very hard rain and very poor derainige. It sounds like a good idea to me. I won't use it on my layout in Virginia, because moss is part of my ground cover. I might try it on the road bed, if moss invades too much.

Chuck


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

work4fil said:


> I too, have heard using Tide powdered detergent to deter, kill moss. What I wondered about with Tide is whether it foams up, when it rains hard.
> 
> Fil


I use it on my roof, and if you put a lot down it will foam up a bit during a heavy rain. I tend to sprinkle it on my roof during the last few weeks of the fall, and just forget about it. I have a white roof until it rains...In the spring, go up and sweep the dead moss off, but that is more for roof maintenance than anything else. Cheapest moss control that's available!


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig,
I would worry about putting it on the ground in concentrations like that. Too many unknowns about side effects. The moss control I use is sprayed on so I can keep it to the right of way. It does not leach out into other areas.


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