# Aristocraft 0-4-0 switcher



## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

Does anyone know how to extract a bit more performance from this loco? It stalls on the mildest of grades. thanks for any help!

DJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Seriously, you probably need to double head them. You can take it to someone to try to adjust the timing, but with the small water/fuel capacity, you are most likely fighting a losing battle. 

Greg


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

You may want to contact our forum sponsor, Triple R Services they may have some experience with this engine and have a few suggestions.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

All you can really do is try to add a bit of weight.. 

there is probably nothing wrong with the locomotive at all, its probably working just fine within its capabilities. 
if it stalls on grades, there are one of two problems, (or both) 
1. the train is too long/heavy. 
2. the grade is too steep. 

it's unlikely there is anything wrong with the locomotive. 
real locomotives have limits..so do model locomotives.

Scot


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Umm... are you thinking electric, not live steam Scot? 

Where would you add weight? 

Greg


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

It does not hold steam well at all. pop off is around 35psi. It rapidly falls off to abot 15~18 even at low throttle. If I park at the bottom of the grade, let it build steam, then advance the throttle, it accelerates right up the hill. Could by gas be out of adjustment? edit: Greg, I do not know what double head means. BTW, On occasion, it just doesn't really go, even on level.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Greg wants you to get another and have them both pull your train up the hill! It is great fun to run two engines pulling the train, though you DO have to have two to make it work.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sorry, double head means "double the head end power, meaning two locomotives. 

I think 35 psi is about right. It does not have a big burner. I don't think this loco has a water bath, but someone will know for sure, so maybe the fuel is getting too cold, and the pressure is dropping, and not letting you maintain a good enough flame. 

The pressure dropping is definitely not right. Sounds like you do have a problem that can be corrected. 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I don't have one of these locos (nor have I seen one run) so I have no baseline to know what they "should" be capable of. Having said that, I've run my share of lethargic locos over the years. 

First, look at the safety valve. If it's weeping at fairly low pressures, you're losing steam through there, and it's not going to the cylinders. Repair/replace the safety valve so it stays closed until it gets to the pressure at which it's supposed to release. I've seen that one little change bring many lethargic locos immediately back to life. Check with WeeBee to see if they make an aftermarket safety valve for the Aristo locos. I've got one installed on my Accucraft Mogul, and I really like it. 

Second, compare the typical operating pressure with what the safety's set for. If the safety's supposed to pop at 40 pounds, but you're never getting more than 20 pounds no matter how much fire you give it, then something's amiss. You're not getting enough fire to keep the water hot. That could be a fuel valve issue, jet issue, or it could be that the fuel tank is getting too cold and can't supply the gas at sufficient pressure. (Note - if you're constantly pulling a heavy train, you may find yourself running under the maximum pressure even with a healthy fire, just because of the steam demands of the train.) 

If you've got plenty of pressure in the boiler but the loco's still not pulling its own shadow, there's something wrong with the steam delivery plumbing. Possible issues include (a) obstruction or leak in the steam line going to the cylinders, (b) poor seals in the cylinders causing the steam to "blow by" the cylinder instead of pushing against it, or (c) blockage in the exhaust once it leaves the cylinders which can also bog down the loco. These problems typically manifest themselves more under load than running light. 

(Also, just check around the loco to make sure all the screws/fittings are tight and that there are no leaks here or there which could be robbing you of power.) 

You don't clarify what "mild" is, nor do you indicate what kind of train you're pulling. That could have a profound impact as well. But if "mild" means around 1 - 2%, and the train is maybe two - four cars, the loco should reasonably be able to handle that. 

Good luck! 

Later, 

K


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

I have the 0-4-0 live steam switcher. Mine will climb a pretty steep grade as long as it isn't pulling many cars!!!! I believe you said that you start out at 35 psi (good) but the pressure drops off. When that has happened to me it means that I don't have the gas valve opened enough - in other words I'm not providing enough heat to keep the pressure up. 

Ed


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 20 May 2012 09:42 AM 
Umm... are you thinking electric, not live steam Scot? 

Where would you add weight? 

Greg 



No, I know he is talking about live steam..
I dont know where one would add weight..I was only offering it as a potential fix.

Scot


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ahh... since he said it was stalling I think this means not enough power, not slipping drivers. Additional weight did not make sense to me. If the drivers were spinning it would. 

Again, I assumed stalling meant the drivers stopped turning. 

Regards, Greg


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Aristo's 0-4-0 does have a water bath for the fuel tank. After I've built up steam I empty the water bath and refill it with warm water. I've found that helps a lot. But my 0-4-0 will still have problems with a 3% grade. It pulls pretty well on level track. 35 psi is where the safety valve pops.
Bob


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

I was running a warm water bath, however the plates at the rear and front of the cylinder started bubbling , getting worse. I plan to return it to Aristo craft under warranty. You couldx watch the pressure gauge drop from 30 to 15 the instant the throttle was advanced. 

DJ


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If the plates at the ends of the cylinders are bubbling, that means they're not sealed well, and steam is leaking out the front and back instead of pushing against the cylinders. Yep, that's gonna be a problem. If the screws are loose, tighten them. If they're tight, then you'll have to re-seal them with new gasket material. A common material is a dollar bill. (You can use higher denominations if you'd like, but it's your money.) Seriously--the paper our currency is printed on has a high cotton content, and works very well as cylinder gasket material. I've used that on all the cylinders I've had to re-seal, and it works great. 

Later, 

K


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## bdelmo (Oct 21, 2010)

I had my first run of Aristo-Craft Live Steam Switcher on my Bonanza Goldrush Garden Railway in 2012. 

http://youtu.be/OTpk-uweYw8 

Continuing my first run of Aristo-Craft Live Steam Switcher on my Bonanza Goldrush Garden Railway in 2012. 

http://youtu.be/p7YbOe1_esU 

While trying to take pictures while running this steamer, I sped up going downhill grade 4% around the curve after the bridge and fell three feet down. Several parts broke off, including three wires between the tender and engine, which will require me to mail it out to AC for repairs. 

It is back from AC repairs just one week after shiping and ready for PLS Memorial Day Run days. 


Bryan


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I also hade an 0-4-0 and it ran very well on my layout with grades pulling a few cars. I would try what Kevin said and see if it makes a difference. Also try changing the water bath. I found that once the steam was built up the water bath became cold. I would change it before running it and sometimes halfway through a run. It really made a difference especially on cooler days.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One of the things to consider is boosting the PSI to 40. This loco is not made to pull a large trains. One must remember when first starting out with the loco that the PSI will drop till the cylinders get warm. One must get them warm and then wait again for the pressure to come up to 40. Also make sure to get the fuel burning to maintain the 40 psi. And then this loco will run like a champ. 
Also one thing to remember is you do not have the forward/reverse servo in completely neutral then you will have indications of steam leaking from the cylinders, 

Later RJD


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## cocobear1313 (Apr 27, 2012)

How does one boost the pressure to 40 PSI? 
Thanks, 
DJ


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