# 2 BAY ENGINE SHED



## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

The floor is the starting point, so here's some shots.
Overall dimensions of the floor are 21"w x 32" L ( 35' x 54')
Construction will be board on frame, all glued and pinned with the nailer

All wood is Western Red Cedar and the glue is Titebond III 

The rail is nailed to the joists with steel, ringed, panel nails and the rail is pre drilled though the foot to accept the nails.









There may or may not be a machine shop attached to one side....


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## Tom Daly (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow Larry,
You don't waste any time !
Looks great so far.
Tom


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a lot of time off Tom. People think we don't do tree work in the winter. But the smart ones call us now and save a hundred bucks or two.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking grand already! Did the grex pinner make the holes that look like nail holes? Nice tip on securing the track to the frame  Looking forward to seeing more progress. 

I know you were doing some 7/8s stuff but based on the dimensions you gave this is going to be 1:20.3. Are you modeling both 7/8s and 1:20.3?


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Are you free-handing the dimensions, or do you have some 1:1 scale drawings you are working from?


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim,
Yes this is 1:20.3. I've done a lot in 7/8ths but still have not managed to come up with a 7/8ths loco that I like and I've converted more than a few.
So I'm doing some 1:20 stuff for now and all the 7/8ths is on my shelf.









The nail holes are from the nailer and look great









Thsi is all free lance but I'm stealing ideas from the Gazett


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job so far. Can't wait to see the finished product. Later RJD


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## tbug (Feb 16, 2008)

Looks great!!! I'll be looking for the rest of this build!

tbug


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Work continues....

Post and beam construction has begun. The posts and beams are scale 12"x 12", which is the thickness of the standard 1x4 board of cedar...at least it is here. I would not have taken this approach with out the pin nailer. The nailer made nailing sooooo easy 

Next up window design issues so it may be awhile before the next progress report.

Meanwhile pics..


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

You're making it look easy ;-) After you're done stealing some ideas, I think I'll steal yours. Thanks for posting progress pics, so I can figure out how you did things. 

Since this is just 2-bays and the tracks seem to be coming out of the shed straight I assume there won't be a turntable?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

It is a great begining. Cant wait for the next up date 

I like it when guys put figures in thier pic's like you did. It adds something to the pic


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

No turntable Jim, just a switch to get 2 tracks to the shed.

I decided to actually build the windows in place so I framed the rest of one side to accept the siding.

Windows construction will begin by placing a single piece of plexi into each window bay and the I'll glue in the frame to hold it in place. After that dries I'll add the little bits to make it a 2 over 3 window.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

You are doing a wonderful job. Very inspiring. I love the frame work looks good and strong. The deck is great. Have you consider a working pit between the tracks where the engineers used to get under the train to do there maintenance and repairs?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Wow, looks great so far! Nice work.


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful start, Larry! What kind of siding do you have planned?

Thanks for sharing with us,
Matt


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## tbug (Feb 16, 2008)

Man - that looks great!!! Glad you are posting pic's as you go as I plan on doing something similar - and you're building the way I would too! I'll be looking closely at how you do the windows. I build my windows first, but yours may be a better way to go. Hmmm...

tbug


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

No pit for maintenance... it would just collect crud when outdoors. 


Matt, the siding will be vertical board... no battens.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That looks fantastic--just great. Keep posting!

You could just paint the deck black under where the locos park, give the suggestion of a pit. Cut a figure in half and glue it down under a loco...


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well if he does that he will be hiring the handicap. Great always nice to see folks finding jobs for them.. later RJD


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Finished the framing and the siding today. And so far have generated two loads of saw dust from the mill








Lots of pics enjoy.

And by the way.... the Bass River Lumber Co agreed to provide lumber for the new engine facility, water tank, fuel tank and ties for track if the RR would build a branch line up to the new dam, to pick up logs, since they can't float them down river all the way any longer







damn Corp of Engineers and their flood projects


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Larry, 
This looks great! Keep the pic's coming!


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

Looks really great. I'm glad you took trouble to post pixes as you go. I'm also glad you put the standing figure in, to give a noob like me a better idea of relative sizes.

I read your negative that you wouldn't put in a pit, and why. When I build mine, I've been thinking of laying a set of tram rails to the outsides of each engine, the idea being that a shop crane might look good, and let the rails lead to the blacksmith shop. What's your take on that notion? (My layout is indoors).

Les


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, If there's anything I've learned about RRing is that you only have to please yourself. Some will like what you do others won't. In the end if you like it do it.

I'm thinking about chain falls hanging from the rafters. This after all is more of a shed than a major maintenance facility. But if I changed my mind about a pit I could pull out the boards between the rails as. to make it. Having said that... If my RR was indoors I'd go to a whole new level of detail and put in a pit with lights too. That would make for a cool night time picture


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

I'm definitely going to put in pits. Now, I'd not thought about lights due to the era. But yeah, what a fine idea!

I'm a true believer in Rule 8, as the Brits say, but I want to stay inside the mainstream--not particularly for positive/negative feedback, but to get more practiced as a modeller _and_ prototype RR'er. (Up to a point).

The reason I thought of the tram crane was, I'm taken by the kick switches over on the microscale website. I think those folks are nothing short of artistic geniuses. Also, overhead chainfalls need I-beams, or at least heavily reinforced beams, and I didn't want to bother with 'em. I agree, they're nearly indispensable for an engine house.

Seeing your building, and the tipple last month--sorry can't remember names--all done out of redwood is making me reconsider using resawn fir. I'm going to go to the lumber yard and see what red cedar would set me back. By using a bandsaw, I don't think the wastage would be all that bad. Red cedar would be unusual for my location, though.

Incidentally, I've got a great idea for the 'chip car'. I burn wood, about 6 cord/yr, and if I take a hardware cloth screen, I think I might come up with some really coarse chips. Or, turn on my chainsaw....

Les


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## Tom Daly (Jan 3, 2008)

Hey Larry,
You better put a tarp over that gondola with the sawdust, we are expecting 8 - 12" of snow tonight. ;-)
Tom


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, I burn wood too an have a 18" inch chipper...now those chips are really big. Cross cutting a log will give you big chips. Cutting on the length will give you shavings....but turn a section on end and crosscut from the end and you'll get great saw dust. 


The snow gives me an excuse to stay in and work on it Tom ...









Now for the roof trusses. I built them like I would for an airplane( the kind you ride in) wing rib made of wood. There is no glue where each member meets another, the glue is applied to the gusset and then nailed in place....very strong. Gussets on both sides of each joint on all the trusses except the outside of the ends units, there the trusses are covered with siding so gussets are not needed.

A must have is a jig, so I cut the parts for the first truss, assemble them dry and nail the keying plates in place. The tedious part is cutting all the raw stock but once that's done it all goes together quick.

And now the pictures....

And once again....I never would have done this without the pin nailer.....way too many pins


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice jig!


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

Thanks for the great pixes.

I just found out there're archives on this site, but don't know how to access them. (I've already posted this someplace else, so no need to answer). I assume this thread will wind up someplace where I can find it again? I'm starting to lose track of pixes on my computer that I've copied off different threads.

Most thoughful, that jig.









Les


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## Splicer (Nov 29, 2008)

Larry...What a FINE piece of craftsmanship!!! Outstanding is an understatement...


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Fantastic engine shed, Larry! I like everything about it!


Posted By Les on 01/29/2009 2:05 PM
Larry,

Thanks for the great pixes.

I just found out there're archives on this site, but don't know how to access them. (I've already posted this someplace else, so no need to answer). I assume this thread will wind up someplace where I can find it again? I'm starting to lose track of pixes on my computer that I've copied off different threads.

Most thoughful, that jig.









Les



Yes, Les, you will be able to access this later, either by bookmarking it, looking at 'your topics' if you have subscribed to it, or searching for '2 Bay Engine Shed.'

Take care,
Matt


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Work continues on the roof. The whole roof assembly is lift off so I can do inside maintenance without killing myself.

Today the ends were boarded up and the planking was added to the rafters. I decided to go with corrugated aluminum roof panels which is why there are gaps in the planking. I also got the exhaust pipe started. More tomorrow


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry, really nice. Prototypical, too. That's how I roofed a barn I built a long time ago. I'll wait to see if you buy corrugated iron, or make your own.

Les


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## SteveF (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry,

You are an inspiration! Thanks for building that for me, I know just where to put it, once it is done. It will hold a B-mann two truck Shay, won't it?












I am curious how you plan to go about constructing the windows. I read your proposal, but can't really grasp the idea. Since the frames are the same size, wouldn't it be easier to build another jig and mass produce them, instead of trying to fit your fingers into the small hole? Or have I missed something.

How do you plan to attach the roofing?



Again, fantastic work! 


SteveF


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, The plan is to make the roofing using a paper crimper since I have a nice roll of soft aluminum that I got from Yogi a few years back. I was sure I had seen more than one barn with roofing like this...thanks for the confirmation.


Steve, It's going to hold 2 three truck shays so I'm sure the 2 truck will fit fine....







...back achya'


Even though the window opening are the "same" size, it only takes a half milimeter to make a jig formed window not fit....I'll do the windows last so we'll see what develops.


The plan today is to attached the roofing with beads of caulk.


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Larry, 
This building is such an inspiration, and it looks GREAT! 

Keep the pics coming! 

Can't wait to see the roofing going on


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

I have cut all the roof panels and now they need crimping but I had a brain storm on the windows so have started them.

The original plan was to build them in place and that's still true for the most part.


Here's a shot of the rough window opening.










Then the inside casings...at least that's what I think they are called.










Then the outside framing.










Then I pop in the magic window 










The brain storm was the window glass.... I cut groves in the Plexiglas with the table saw and then painted the groves black. I could actually glue little bits for all the vertical and horizontal pieces so that they stand proud of the glass but for now I'm taking the easier route.

Here's the window with the grooves in place...and painted..


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

That effect is not too far away from the steel casement(?) windows one sees in industrial buildings. Some open, some don't. Those little vertical and horizontal pieces for the glass are called 'mullions', I do believe. Better check that, though.









Les


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

That's the idea Les. Steel windows. I had them on my house, built in the 50s, but they're long gone. No opening windows for now but making one look like an open casement is real easy to do. )


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## Nohandles (Jan 2, 2009)

Have you thought about a mold and plastic windows? I build 14 different window molds in the early 90's that I still use today. 
I forgot cool building and great craftmanship.


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Just amazing, Larry. You need to put these into production!


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

That's a heck of an idea, Larry! Did you cut them on a full size table saw? Must have brass cahoonas if you did! 
They look great!


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## sheepdog (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking engine shed! Nice craftsmanship.

Even works better if you leave the paper on.




















Craig


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Loving this thread and continue to be very impressed by your work. Your use of a pin nailer reminded me of a question I've had for a while. What's the difference between a brad and a pin?


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Robert, I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong , but I believe the only difference is that brads have heads, pins don't. 

Take care, 
Matt


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great tip on the magic windows, thanks!


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## Mickeyls (Jan 2, 2008)

Brad nailer shoots a 16ga or 18ga brad with a head, Pin nailer shoots a 23ga pin with a head. Looks about like a sewing needle. 

With the glue on them, once they go in they do not want to come out


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## Mickeyls (Jan 2, 2008)

Correction; the pin nailer does not have a head. There is a marker on the side of the pins that shows direction to insert.


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

That's it Les...steel casement windows, I had them on the house which was built in the 50s...long gone now.

Doug, no interest here in molding windows









Matt, they were cut on a Micro Mark mini table saw. I would not try it on a standard 10" saw.....too scary.









Craig, do you cut grooves just though the paper and then paint?? Your factory window look nice


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## sheepdog (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry - Same as you but leave the paper on and use the micro-mart hobby table saw.... Anything else would scare the crap outta me.

Craig 

Edit: Just a bit more info. I do not want to clog up this great thread. Initially I used the 80t blade that comes with the hobby saw and a wobble washer. Terrible results..... The little pointy teeth seem to have frayed the paper and paint was able to get under it. Switched to the carbide blade and everything went great. I have not tried it but it seems to me that if you had removed the paper, one could cover the surface with blue masking tape and then cut the grooves. Ready to be painted. The grooves add a 3D effect that just plain paint does not.

P.S. Great idea with the little paper clamps!!!


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

The roof panels are all cut and crimped and the first row is installed.
I hold the panels in place with little spring clips (from Staples ) while the caulk sets up. Set up for the caulk is at least over night. It dries slow but is translucent when dry and paintable.





























The windows are all done but won't be installed until the shed is painted.

Meanwhile I ordered more lamps from Ozark $6.95 for two...but I like them.
There will be 12 in the shed hanging from the beams. Each draws 50maA so with lights on the draw will be 600mA. I'll use a rechargable battery, for now, that will give me 7 hours. I painted the shades with 12 minute Krylon. Inside of the shade white and the outside green.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

On the roof panels:

You said you used a paper crimper. I've read where these lack the proper 'pitch' and leave more a peaked effect than a rounded contour. Yet yours look excellent to me. And I've put up the real stuff. Sooo.... what kind of paper crimper are you using, because from the photographs, it looks just fine to me. I'd like to buy one.

And thank you again for the effort to take and publish these series. I assure you, seeing it happen is both encouraging and educational---not to mention motivational!









Les


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Les, 
I don't know where Larry got his, but the one I use came from a Michaels Art's and Crafts. It makes the rounded contours like the ones in the pics. I really like the one I have, it's easy to use and does a great job!


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, It is a paper crimper, but I run the panels through at least twice to get a nice shape....and you have to squeeze hard on the handle or do what I do..put it in a vice.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a picture...









Fiskars - 6 1/2" wide


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

And if you want something heavy duty, here's what Lawrence 'Yogi' Wallace did.

Crimper_Home_made.pdf[/b]


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

I went out this very morning and bought a Fiskar's crimper from Michael's, $20 + loose change. Other than the plastic frame, it looks just dandy. I'll see how it handles various grades of light metal. I'd be wary of putting that thing in a vise and clamping on it, howsumever.

I just saw your posts, and the one about 'making your own'. I wept. (I'm a retired tool & die maker). I'll read how, later.

To salve my injured billfold, however, I also scored 50% OFF on a big, huge box of Sculpey, normally $49.99, Michael's, again.

I do believes I'm ahead of the game, I do.







. Because I also got two more 50% off receipts (my wife is savvy, that way--we each paid separately).

And the results you got, at least in photos, looks good enough to satisfy me. At least I got off dead center and got the stuff I need to start. (I got timbers from M.'s yesterday, to study the feasibility of cutting my own.) I don't know if fir, ripped, will warp. It usually does. I have _no_ experience with redwood.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Oops!

Sorry, Steve. In my post to Larry, I credited him with the how-to on the crimper. What those gear rollers cost, assuming one length did for both, is what I paid for the Fiskar's. But at least I've got a source. Yogi did a great job on that tool.

If 'bowing' in the middle is a problem on heavier stock, I wonder if a set of rollers, like unto lathe followers, could be made up for the Fiskar's? I'll have to try it out and see what's what.

Thanks for the file!

Les


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## bruce warnke (Jan 28, 2009)

Larry, 
I have the same crimper and after running a number of beer cans threw it the crimp started looking off. the plastic frame around the shafts started to wear (no lube). 
You can take the rollers out and cut some 1/4" brake line tubing for bushings and drill out the plastic frame to fit the bushings and press in, Lube the 
bushings and put the crimper back together. 

Bruce. 

P.S. Works great now.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bruce,

Ho! Talk about a post at the right time! Go, you.

Les


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, what are the dimensions of your roof panels and how much will they be overlapped?


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Bruce, I am thinking of making something custom...we'll see,,

Jim, the panels start as 2.5" x 5". 2.5" because that's the width of the raw stock on the roll. 5" because that's the natural spacing of the boards on the roof. I over lap 3 or 4 ribs to the side and the width of one board from the top.


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## Bob Rich (Jan 4, 2008)

Larry,
 
That Engine House is looking really good. How are you going to make the ridge cap? 
 
I have one of those Fiskar paper rollers and I bought some aluminum drip pans for the oven to roll into siding and roofing. It looks to be fairly soft so that you wouldn’t have to anneal it in the gas grill, as some people have reported needs doing when using soda and beer cans. The cost of the drip pans was fairly cheap at the $1 store. Three sheets about 18”X24” for $1, not to bad.
 
Keep up the posts as I am looking for ideas to copy all the time.








 
Regards, 
Bob Rich


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob,

Just yesterday I went to Michael's and bought a Fiskcar paper crimper. At first glance I don't much care for it, the plastic frame seems 'way too soft. However, on the various scraps of paper I've tried, on all but one kind it gives very reasonable-looking crimps. I read that the 'pitch'--the distance from one peak to the next--isn't in scale, but my gosh, it looks very good to me.

I got blank spots in the middle of one particular kind of heavy, glossy paper, but by turning it at right angles (grain?) it did okay, too.

The real answer, of course, is to make a stiffer frame to hold the rollers. Steve the Moderator posted a PDF on one built with spline stock on a heavy aluminum frame; I doubt I want to go that far. Also, there's no way to remove the crimper-rollers without destroying the tool, though I suspect I might eventually do that. Maybe. Not a high priority as the results satisfy me.

How does yours do for you?

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

I'm unclear if your roof panel dimensions are scale or actual. In real life, those panels were 2.5' x 8', though I think longer lenghts were available by special order. (It's been forty years, I'm a tad foggy, but I remember they were gut-tighteningly expensive, even then).

I tried my Fiskar's crimper on whatever I could lay my hands on. I'm underwhelmed by the strength of the frame, but that's fixable. OTOH, the crimps I got from yellow card stock certainly satisfy me.

If you intend to show nails, the nails go on the peak, not in the valley, and they've got a lead washer underneath to seal.

FWIW.

Les


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## bruce warnke (Jan 28, 2009)

Les. 
You can take the crimper apart without damage, but if you lube the plastic at the shafts you can crimp beer cans with out wear on the plastic. You may have to run the can back and forth a number of times, and squeeze like ****. 
BRUCE.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bruce,

I squeeze the handles until they 'nest' against each other. There's no more room left to sqeeze. And still, on certain kinds of heavy, glossy paper (like you find in desktop notebooks) they leave blanks spots in the middle which suggests the rollers themselves are flexing. Why they would is a mystery to me. Also, the paper being crimped sometimes 'works' to the right or left, giving a fan-like appearance to the finished piece, particularly a long one. (An easy work-around is to use narrower pieces).

I'm not unhappy exactly, with it. It's a case of a tool not having meat where it's needed in my NSHO. One fix would be to just mount the rollers in a pair of blocks on a frame, I suspect wood would do. A simpler fix might be to cinch the rollers together with a pair of tie-wraps spread far enough apart to clear the workpiece. I dunno. I have to play around with it some more. I want to emphasize that I'm not downing the tool out of hand. It does work on heavy tag paper, for instance, and when it works, it does well enough to suit me. Would I recommend it? Eeehhh.... if it's the only type to be had, yeah, I guess I would.

I can't imagine running even beercan aluminum through it. I wonder if my 'newer' one benefits from a lighter frame, to increase profit margins?

Oh, BTW. After doing business up front, my wife and I went around back to the dumpster (where the _real _buys are) and found most of a pack of this 'scrapbook paper' (?) Some sheets look like chipboard, or have faux 'tape strips' marks. The paper surface is even somewhat uneven. I suspect it'll make first-class tarpaper roofing. You might want to check it out. If you don't know what to ask for, take your wife along. The packet these came in was in tough shape, so my wife fed it to the fireplace this morning. (Always, efficiency when you don't want it)







That's why I don't have a brand name to offer.

Les


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## bruce warnke (Jan 28, 2009)

Les. 
Try using ligth pressure on the first pass and more pressure ever other pass. maybe that may help. 
Bruce


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bruce,

There's a thought. Thanks.

Les


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

There is a lot of info on how to prepare beer/soda cans for crimping in the *MLS archives* one thing is to heat them on the Bar-B-Q to remove the temper.....just check the _*Archived Posts*_ box, select _*building *_from the drop down menu, and in the _*search for*_ box enter the word "_*crimper*_"......and you'll get about 50 links..... 
Here is a picture of some made by Lawrence "Yogi" Wallace make sure and check out his web site for a lot more info on "*Making Aluminum Siding and Trim*"....while you're there check out the rest of *"Yogi" web site* for a lot of other great info....


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, more aluminum for the ridge cap, smooth without ridges.

Les, I know what you mean. I'm starting with aluminum that's already soft. I tried flashing once but it's too hard. You'll have to anneal the aluminum if you want it easier to crimp. A torch would work but I'd probably try cutting all the panels and then put them in a self cleaning oven and set the oven to clean.

No fancy details on the panels are planned..too much work. My panels scale out to 40" (2") wide 100"(5") long after crimping, but I start with 2.5" wide.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Dean,

Thanks for the detailed directions. The pic you provided looks about as good as anyone could want. FWIW, in my neck of the woods, nobody, but nobody, failed to align the bottom edge of the roof--it was considered poor workmanship.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

I hesitate to post this because it borders on rivet-counting, which I loathe. The proto ridge cap was rounded at the peak and had flanges that were corrugated to match the tin roof. I think you could do it, but I also think it'd be a royal PIA. The reason I'm even bothering is that I've been turning the same problem over in my mind since I actually got a crimper.

Now, what I have seen those old farmers do is extend the weather-side of the roof a couple of inches higher, and just let it go. What drips in, drips in. (And surprisingly little does).

Whatever. You've done a great, great job and managed to motivate me to go spend some money and try to get rolling. (Pun not exactly intended.)









One of the guys suggested cheapo throwaway aluminum baking pans (for turkeys?). I can't remember. Tired. I want t try that, too.

Keep up the good work.

Les


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## Bob Rich (Jan 4, 2008)

Larry, 

Don’t try the self-cleaning oven set on “Clean”. I did that with a pair of aluminum grills from a Jen Air indoor grilling stove. It softened the grill bars till they sagged. Didn’t melt them into a puddle mind you but they were unusable after that. I guess the outdoor gas grill doesn’t get as hot as the self clean setting in the oven. 

Les,

Sorry about my slow response. I just don’t get time to check the web every day, AND I’M RETIRED!! I haven’t really done a lot of work with the Fiskar Paper Crimper. I just fooled around with it to see how it works, as you seem to be doing. So I haven’t worn out the bearing surfaces in the plastic frame. It sounds like a good idea to lube them, I never thought of that.

I suggested the oven bottom sheets designed to protect the bottom of the oven from spills, they seem to be plenty soft. They are mostly flat with a little lip around the edge and some light ridges through the body of the sheet. I trimmed of the edges and then I kind of smoothed the ridges out with my hand on a tabletop and cut it into smaller pieces as Larry did.

However, when I did try it I had the wandering problem (pie effect) with the aluminum also. The rollers will make more of an impression if you run the piece back and forth but you can get the pie effect when you do that. I haven’t fully figured out how to avoid that yet. I think smaller pieces help avoid it a little. Another idea is to go slow when you roll the piece, I found I got less pie effect when I did that. 

Bruce’s suggestion to start with a lighter pressure and increase it with each pass may work to avoid the pie effect. I remember someone once posted that they used rubber bands wrapped tight around the handles to exert the maximum pressure without hurting their hand. I haven’t tried that so I don’t know how well it works.

Let us know of anything you figure out.

Regards,
Bob


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't mean to detour this thread with crimper issues but as Dean suggest there are plenty in the archives.

Here is my link to archive about the crimper for Rusty roofing & siding.

Scroll down in the link to see how to mount the crimper to apply adequate pressure.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob,

I hear ya about 'retired'. So'm I. Yeah, those aluminum grease-catchers--I couldn't think of the name. I'd been at the Train Show and was pretty much done for, after. You can see my post on the 'General Forum' if you're interested in my take on it.

I'm beginning to think I've got a 'new model' crimper. The frame is so weak. Howsumever, I'm going to keep messing with it for awhile. I happen to think, at $20, it's overpriced.

I never was a fan of annealing stuff in the kitchen oven--lots of fumes containing particles of probably unhealthy chemical composition can be generated. That's just my opinion.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Richard,

I don't see the 'crimper issue' as derailing the thread. I see it as a natural offshoot of Larry's project. But that's just my take. Some folks are more focussed and like to keep an orderly progression, others tend to amplify particular aspects. That's a potential issue that'll never be resolved, likely.

I appreciate the links, I'm getting more out of them than just crimper use. I see some very good stuff in the background that's worth noting, and I thank you for taking time to post them.

Les


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard...it's not a detour








Bob, I think I did it before with aluminum roof flashing. Perhaps my oven is different than yours. I'll test another piece of flashing and report back. 


Les, you mean like this? This was easy.


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

I put a half dozen sheets of the roof flashing in the oven just now. My oven has a low temp and a high temp cycle so I started with the low. 
I little Googling came up with a 900 deg F temp for self cleaning ovens and 800 deg F to anneal aluminum. I'd guess my oven goes to 900 on high but I don't know what it goes to on med. we'll see what happens in 3 hours.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry

I believe that what Les is referring to is more along the lines of the following (i.e. ridge cap, ridge roll, or ridge flashing).


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Steve.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

No, not like you've pictured.

Lemme think ... this is gonna be hard to describe ... think of a soda straw split in half longways. Now, attach to the straw, at a 90 deg included angle (or whatever the pitch angle of your roof is, both sides) and attach six scale inches or so of corregated roofing at that angle, to the bottom of the straw. If you can visualize that, that's what those roof caps looked like. They sit on top of the ridge, straddling both sides with a smooth, rounded top. You nail the skirts of the cap into the roofing and sheeting below.

Hope that makes sense. Like I said, PIA....

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Steve,

Right on!

Les


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I took the easy route for the ridge cap and have started the painting process.

I still have to install the lights, make doors and finish the exhaust stacks.


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Larry, 
It's looking great! Will the roof be removable so that the interior details can be viewed? If so, how (or what) will the roof be held on against the wind? 

Great job!


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

That's really marvelous!


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## Nohandles (Jan 2, 2009)

Absolute work of art. Any chance of posting plans?


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Larry,

Roofcap looks just fine! You've done a really great job on that engine house. Makes me want to start mine tomorrow.

Les


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

That's beautiful, Larry! A job very well done! 

Take care, 
Matt


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice work, Larry. Are you bringing it to York?


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## Bob Rich (Jan 4, 2008)

Larry,

That is beautiful to say the least. I like the color you have chosen for the outside. Did you paint or stain the inside? Don’t forget to post some pictures of it in place once you get it outside on the layout.

Regards,
Bob


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## EFP&CO (Nov 16, 2008)

Larry:


Beautiful color,and the roofing is excellent! You can´t place that piece of art outside??









I´m also enjoying your beautiful steamer locos, and all the trees are looking real right to scale, at Cape Ann Railway.

Oddvar


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys,

To answer the questions..... 

There are no plans it was all freelance.
The roof comes off as a unit. Look at some of the earlier post and you'll see where it separates. I don't think I'll have to worry about wind but I may make a latch for the roof.

The paint is Krylon, black and ruddy brown primers.
I'll put a clear wood preservative on the floor a little later. Then it will go outside to weather...after the snow melts...probably early April.


York? it might make the trip, have not decided.... I'll be there though










Next up a dust collector for the mill.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

That is one fine engine shed Larry. I love the roof. I would also like to see it at the ECLSTS.

Doc


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

I'd like to see it at York as well!


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Les,
Is this what you were talking about?

Be pretty tough to build a jig to make it in 1:20 scale.
Later
Rick Marty


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Rick,

That's exactly what I had in mind, and you're right. As I opened with, 'It'd be a real PIA...' I just wanted to let Larry know what the prototype was all about. He did a great job w/o it.

Les


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

Les,
It surprised me that they are still making that ridge pattern and it is still available.
I have put several miles of that on in past years but haven't seen it used around here
in probably 30 years. Everybody has gone to the flat flashing with foam closure strip
because it is lots cheaper.

Just as a side note in Nam we had tents, then we were upgraded to hooches which were 
plywood floors and walls 4' high with screen above that (4' higher) then the tent was used for a 
roof. The sides could be dropped down to cover the screen during the Monsoons. Getting
to the point, they later replaced the tent roofs with corrugated Transite roof sheeting and the ridge
cap was a corrugated casting as in the drawing shown before. I have never seen or heard of 
corrugated transite roofing before or since. Hmmmm, might look into a service related disability








Later
Rick Marty


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Rick,

I think I put in a disclaimer in my first post to Larry that I'd last used that stuff forty years ago. I do know I tried to put it on my subdivision house in the 70's when hail destroyed the 'first' roof. The neighbors had a screaming fit. All they could see was 'barn'. So I went to the building authorities and found out, sure enough, 'no barn roof allowed'.

 I've lived in this home for 38 years and have spent thousands redoing the roof after hailstorms or age take their tolls. One 'iron' roof, once installed, would've probably just now been showing minor rust streaks that would need to be painted. But no, we have 'fashion' to consider. I've given up trying to explain things like 'planned obsolescence' to the sheep. The answer is invariably a shrug and a smirk, "Well, what can ya do about it? That's the way it is." Turns out, there's a great deal one can do about it, but it requires work, self-education, and a certain indifference to fashiion.

This, most people will not abide.

Les


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

The lights went in today









Here's the Ozark Miniature lamp kit. 











There are 3 beams that cross the shed and each has been drilled to take 4 lamps.
Wire ties keep the wires neat. 











Here's a pic of all 12 lamps and note the floor has been coated with preservative.










Two brass nails go into the center beam to act as a solder point. And two brass rods act as the main buss for power.










Here's a mid point connection.










And finally... let there be light... running on a 12 volt battery connected to the buss.









Down to making doors and finishing the stacks.


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow, Larry! You could take another shot of that last one without the wires in it and win some money, betting people that is the model you made, and not a real engine shed!


*Very *nicely done, Larry! 

Edit: Have you planned for storage of the building? If not, I could work it out so I could swing by there...


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

wow Larry that is awesome, after a few months outside it will really look authenic, you have a real masterpiece and you can be really proud of it.







Dennis


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely the greatest Larry


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

You did a wonderful job. I do have to admit that this structure build is the most impressive build I have ever seen. You obviously put muck thought into it. 
I would love to sea a detailed step by step article on this done and placed in the builders log. maybe even in pdf format so that we could save it as a file for future builds


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, if not too much work I second NavyTech's request


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

While it may not be a step-by-step, maybe the following may be found of use.

*2-Bay Engine Shed*
File Type: PDF - File Size: 1.7MB
Left-click to open / Right-click to download

When Larry complets the project/topic i.e. finishes with the doors and such the file will be updated. 
File Updated 15-FEB-2009


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve, you worked your magic once again. Your organization and eye for detail, along with your dedication continue to amaze me. THANK YOU!


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## Mickeyls (Jan 2, 2008)

Super looking engine shed. 

What is the size of doors. Also, what is the distance between the tracks.


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## tbug (Feb 16, 2008)

Superb build Larry!!! Thanks for posting. I took particular interest in the lighting and brass rods used as a buss. Will likely use the concept in a future project. 

tbug


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm glad Steve made you folks a pdf...... I'm way to busy to write detailed instructions....but, that's why you get all the pictures








On to the doors.
Rough opening is 6.25"w x 8" h


Step 1. placed a piece of scrap plywood on the inside and then traced the opening.










Step 2. cut out the shape









Step 3. Edge glued boards the same size as the siding until I had a panel larger than the template. Traced template onto panel and
cut out the shape. Here I also started adding the edges. 









Step 4. Add more trim to both sides. Note the gap between the two middle boards. The gap is equal to the thickness of my thinest table saw blade.









Step 5. Cut the two halvs loose from each other keep adding trim.









Step 6. Hinges. I thought about this a lot and decided I wanted something that was easy to maintain and would make the doors operational.
Here a section of brass rod is glued to the outside edge of one of the door panels. 










Step 7. More hinge parts. Here you can see the part that will hold the rod for the two doors near the middle.
The square tube is drilled to accept the brass rod and is bolted to the shed. 










Here's a pic of the first panel mounted. You can also see that the middle doors share the hinge mount. More parts to go make now


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

The doors are done... hinges trimmed, doors painted, door stops in place....







.. I suppose I'll put handles on the doors too.


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

Larry, this is absolutley beautiful! I have to admit, I will have to use your design for one of my own. 

Wonderful job!


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## Bob Rich (Jan 4, 2008)

Larry,

That is a great looking building and a nice design on the door hinges. They look very sturdy and reliable. 

I’ve been trying to figure out what to do for doors on my Engine House. I may have to steal your idea.









How do you plan on keeping the doors in the proper open position? For instance, is there enough friction in the hinges to hold the doors open against a breeze? Or do you have a way to have the doors latch onto a post?

Please keep up the posts so we can see your Engine Shed installed on site. 
Regards,


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Absolutely fantastic Larry. Lot's of great ideas. If I ever build an engine house, yours will be the prototype.

Doc


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry
Thanks for sharing the pics of the build up.
You make everyone envious!!
Again nice job!!!!!
I'm still playing outside in the snow.
Sean


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## benbailey50 (Feb 15, 2009)

Hi Larry.

Great job on the loco shed.............







.

Ben.


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Guys, 
Bob, there will be some kind of door latch system once it's outside.


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## trainbuffjr (Jan 11, 2008)

Wow!!! That is incredible work Larry. I thought I was looking at the real deal when I saw the finished product. Thanks for posting it.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, That is a real work of art! It looks like as much work as building one full size, maybe more since the parts are small and harder to handle. Great job. I would be afraid to leave it outside, if the weather didn't get it, someone else might decide they need it.


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## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Wonderful work! If you please, what is the height of the ridge and the ground floor? We have the floor dimensions, and with the requested dimensions the shed can be easily reproduced.

Thanks in advance,

studeclunker


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## GG (Jan 1, 2009)

Larry, have been following with interest. 

I am not a modeller, however I really do see the detail and effort here. You have tweaked my interest in this approach and side of 45mm railroading. 

Thanks for sharing this with me.

gg


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys. I'll get back with the dimensions a little later.


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## Big John (Jan 4, 2008)

Your engine shed is flat in the front. By that I mean the two openings are not at an angle to each other. How long is the required length of track from the turntable or switch point to the door opening to allow you to drive the engine in at 90 degrees with the openings on either side? I am a little restricted on space and would need the entrance track length to be no longer than the length of the engine and tender. Would this work with a flat faced building? 

Big John


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## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Posted By Big John on 03/20/2009 5:40 PM
Your engine shed is flat in the front. By that I mean the two openings are not at an angle to each other. How long is the required length of track from the turntable or switch point to the door opening to allow you to drive the engine in at 90 degrees with the openings on either side? I am a little restricted on space and would need the entrance track length to be no longer than the length of the engine and tender. Would this work with a flat faced building? 

Big John

John, Being that this building is just a barn and the front is fairly flat (as you pointed out), then all you have to do is put in a switch and run your engines in on two tracks. Set your switch parallel to the front of the building. Then run a quarter circle running into the building and same from the other side. Each is going to have to be different radii, of course. Then again, if your tack is leading direct into the location, just put your switch about two feet in front of the building. With one piece of curved track and a straight on one side and two one foots or a two foot on the other side, you're in business.







Anything that would fit in this building should be able to negotiate a short (six foot?) radius turn.


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## gilv (Mar 31, 2009)

Larry 

Excellent job. Any change we can get the lumber dimensions for us nubies?


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry - Can't wait to see this in person. Qualifies as one of those projects even my non-trains-enthusiast friends (for instance, my wife, Sara) will be stunned by.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry, 

Outstanding project! I'll have to try your technique for windows myself not to mention purloining your engine house design.. Great idea! 

I like the color you used as well.


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

Out of the workshop and into the sun light.......[/b]









































...First run of the day with a Battery powered USA Hudson with trailing LGB Battery car.....[/b]












...FILL UP THE BACK YARD WITH PLANTS, PONDS AND TRAINS
.....that way he does not have to mow very much....SWEET......[/b]


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## btill (Jun 1, 2008)

That is one sweet shed. It looks great in the layout also. How soon do we get to see the night pics? I learned so much from your pics and explanations. 

Brian Tillotson 
Escondido, CA


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks again for the kind comments. I never did get the dimensions... The phone started ringing on the tree business and we've been busy ever since.
We got lucky for the open house that we had on Saturday, in that the rain stopped for 24 hours starting the night before. I'll get some night shots eventually but they'll show up in the photography forum


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Those building are real beautifull! Looking forward to the evening pictures. 

Paul


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## Big John (Jan 4, 2008)

I had plans for a two bay engine shed that was in an old model RR magazine that I had planned to build for my logging line Shay and Climax. After seeing your engine shed I have decided to copy your design as it looks so much better. I hope to have it finished sometime in July. I will try to post a few pictures to see if my version can hold a candle to yours. After this project I will need to build an eight bay engine shed for my main line engine facility. If you have any ideas on that size engine shed I would like to hear them. Being eight bays will require the shed to have a curved front with the engines being sent into it from a turntable. I was looking at the five bay engine shed that Richard Smith did but the roof on his is beyond my scope. 

Big John


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Larry 
theres lots of room in the tender for RC batt. bend the corners out alittle and it will be easy to pick up and open. 
why is your RR always perfect?? 
never a mess , no ,,,weeds,,, 
I don't understand???


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## lvmosher (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,

Well I do like the garden aspect of the RR, And I am limited by space 80' x 80' so keeping after the weeds is not a problem.


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*Marty*
*>there is lots of room in the tender for RC batt. bend the corners out a little 
>and it will be easy to pick up and open. 
*

*The owner wanted a loooong run time battery car to 'FEED' his engines.*
*(USA Hudson, LGB F-7A/B/B/A, LGB Genesis, misc Aristo's)*

*This is the 3rd generation with a total of 32 D 4500ma cells.*
*There are two rows of 16 (19.2volts) feeding an Trackside TE.
It needs a 24 volt wheel around charger.








**
Down under, all BB wheels and new springs for my MiniVan...







*
*
Ray*


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