# LGB 2018D mogul (dsp&prr)



## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Hi there, not sure if this is the right forum to post, but I have an opportunity to aquire one at a seemingly good price. The owner tells me they purchased it new in the mid 80's, and last ran it around 1995. Since then it has been a shelf piece. The owner presumes it to be runnable still. Other than a lot of dust, some patina, and broken couplers, it looks to be in OK shape as best as I can tell in the pics. I'd be buying it untested - is there anything I should look for or worry about in particular? I've heard these things are overall tough locomotives. This is the "iconic" red boiler version, with split handrails around the boiler.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Here are some photos the seller sent.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

Myself I only run LGB engines, but I do redue all of them to my railroad likings, that is I'm a modeler first and not so much a runner. I would say by looking at the pics and the underside of the engine that the engine has very little wear, or running time. My only suggestion is to remove the bottom plate on the motor gearbox and clean off the old gear lube and replace with new, be sure to use the type for plastic gears as some lubes will damage plastic. Turn the engine totally upside down so when removing the 4-6 small screws and the bottom plate that nothing falls out, were talking the track sliders and the two brass strips that make contact with the axles for power pickup. I also see the traction tires may need replacing as they do become brittle, easily done just remove the side rods so you can get the new traction tire on. The engine really doesn't look that bad to me, but a good cleanup is needed, I would say this engine would sell for around $250-$300 on eBay as it sets, so your good price you can figure from there. I wouldn't worry too much about it running as LGB engines pretty much run forever and give very little trouble. The two engines in the pics are both around 30 years old and I just redid them in the last six months, as far as mechanical work all I did was re-lube the drivetrain and put on new traction tires. All the wheels need a good cleaning, I do use a fine grit auto compound to polish them as they are your track electrical pickups, a must for good running. 

trainman


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Thanks for all of that - great information and was very helpful. I picked it up at the sellers listed price ($100!). Started cleaning it, opened it up, the internals look dang good to me. Greased/lubed it up, will put it on the track later to test it out. Here's a pic of the internals


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Also, I meant to add that your moguls are absolutely beautiful (if that is a word acceptable to use when describing a locomotive). What types of paint do you recommend? I at least want to touch up the side rods, etc. on the one I just picked up


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Hey Jordan. I have that exact same locomotive. It is a great motive power with LGB craftsmanship. You will probably have to replace the smoke unit which doesn't last more than a couple of decades. You can get them for around $20.00 from multiple train stores like Only Trains. The smoke unit in your loco is the 5 volt one. Click here for Only Trains It is easy to pull out with needle nose pliers, cut the wire, and splice in the new one and drop it in without having to disassemble the unit. Also, the traction tires look brittle and will also need to be replaced. I personally do not like rubber tires on any of my motive power so I ordered the front replacement wheels and stuck it in the back and added a couple of ounces of weight using fishing drop weights on the floor inside the cab. My 2018D can pull about 20 era rolling stock with ease without rubber tires. Here are some pics.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Count me as impressed - put her on the tracks, after a few moments of stuttering, she started running smoothly. Smoke unit even works! I need to polish up the wheels to get better electrical contact, but considering it hasn't run in 25 years I'm super impressed.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The sliders show a bit of wear, but the wheels look pretty darn near new. Great deal.

Greg


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

I use Testors in the blue/white spray cans sold at Hobby Lobby and hobby shops I also use the Rust-Oleum X2 sold at Home Depot for many of my railroad colors, mainly rolling stock cars. Due note here the mogul painted in the D&RGW Bumbee Orange was painted with Textors sold in the small bottles with the red strip (indicates enamel) Testors bright yellow and added a drop of red and I sprayed with my airbrush to get the correct color. Painting the side rods and other parts on the engine including the valve gear, I would remove to paint, they come off very easily. I would paint them with the Rust-Oleum silver X2 should work just fine. Here is a website with a LGB diagram of the 2018D engine, https://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/2018d-1.pdf This website onlytrains.com will have all the replacement parts that are available for LGB, I've used them and got great service. The traction tires will be the 45mm ones, LGB really only has two sizes that most of there engine use, the other is 37mm. Let me know if you need any help with the 2018D as I have taken those engines totally apart, painted, and resembled and yes they did run the first time. 
trainman


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

jordanhd87, one thing I noticed on the underside pic is don't forget the lube the axles where they roll in the motor housing, this part is not available anymore from LGB and it it wears out then you have a problem, your engine looks like it doesn't have enough wear on it, so just lube it. 

trainman


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## RobertHuffman60 (Dec 13, 2020)

trainmanfw&sw said:


> Myself I only run LGB engines, but I do redue all of them to my railroad likings, that is I'm a modeler first and not so much a runner. I would say by looking at the pics and the underside of the engine that the engine has very little wear, or running time. My only suggestion is to remove the bottom plate on the motor gearbox and clean off the old gear lube and replace with new, be sure to use the type for plastic gears as some lubes will damage plastic. Turn the engine totally upside down so when removing the 4-6 small screws and the bottom plate that nothing falls out, were talking the track sliders and the two brass strips that make contact with the axles for power pickup. I also see the traction tires may need replacing as they do become brittle, easily done just remove the side rods so you can get the new traction tire on. The engine really doesn't look that bad to me, but a good cleanup is needed, I would say this engine would sell for around $250-$300 on eBay as it sets, so your good price you can figure from there. I wouldn't worry too much about it running as LGB engines pretty much run forever and give very little trouble. The two engines in the pics are both around 30 years old and I just redid them in the last six months, as far as mechanical work all I did was re-lube the drivetrain and put on new traction tires. All the wheels need a good cleaning, I do use a fine grit auto compound to polish them as they are your track electrical pickups, a must for good running.
> 
> This service can do my essay, just click here https://essayhub.com/do-my-essay/ if you desire to get a high-quality essay.
> 
> ...


Hi! I have this loco and just started getting back into the hobby.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Got her cleaned up quite a bit and repainted the side rods and piston rods. Already looking a million times better. Trying to decide if I will repaint any other parts or not and keep the vintage/patina look. Thinking I may at least repaint the gold bits. Here's a shot as she currently sits:


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

Looking good, you got a great deal on this engine.

trainman


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## ezaircon4jc (Mar 31, 2012)

trainmanfw&sw said:


> ... I have taken those engines totally apart, painted, and resembled and yes they did run the first time.
> trainman
> View attachment 60999


Did you remove the sand domes? If so, how do they come off? I have the 2118D Lake George & Boulder loco and want to paint the domes a different color for some contrast.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

ezaircon4jc said:


> Did you remove the sand domes? If so, how do they come off? I have the 2118D Lake George & Boulder loco and want to paint the domes a different color for some contrast.


I've redone four Moguls over the years and have never been able to get the sand, or steam domes off, they are really glued on from LGB, I think I would pass on removing them as I see no reason to remove them for any reason, repainting can be done without there removal. If you look at my mogul pics in the previous post, both engine are total repaints and the domes were not removed. 

trainman


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

ezaircon4jc said:


> Did you remove the sand domes? If so, how do they come off? I have the 2118D Lake George & Boulder loco and want to paint the domes a different color for some contrast.


The domes on mine were loose and previously popped off from the last owner (as you can see in my very first pic). I took a small amount of two part epoxy to re-attach (small enough that I could remove for possibly repainting at some point). It looked like LGB used quite a bit of glue, but perhaps age/handling of the locomotive loosens it up over time. You could try to wiggle them off and see if they come free, but I wouldn't force them. Both the black dome caps and gold rings of the sand domes come apart separately.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Does anyone know where I may be able to find replacement tender steps? I need two, one is missing and one is broken. Here's a pic of one in tact. EDIT: Nevermind, found them at onlytrains.com


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

I've bought from this guy before, usually takes 7-10 to get my order, but always got what I wanted, in like new condition, LGB 20180 20190 SERIES MOGUL STEAM LOCO TENDER PLASTIC STEP PARTS 2 PIECES NEW! | eBay

trainman


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

trainmanfw&sw said:


> I've bought from this guy before, usually takes 7-10 to get my order, but always got what I wanted, in like new condition, LGB 20180 20190 SERIES MOGUL STEAM LOCO TENDER PLASTIC STEP PARTS 2 PIECES NEW! | eBay
> 
> trainman


The prices for LGB parts the LGBDude on eBay are way too high. I have the LGB Mogul tender steps available.......I do LGB locomotive repairs and DCC sound installations for customers and carry a supply of parts for that but will sell them to customers too. My Website: LGB Trains | Old Dominion Railways | Repairs & DCC Installs | United States


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## K-5 (Dec 4, 2020)

LGB333$$$$ said:


> The prices for LGB parts the LGBDude on eBay are way too high. I have the LGB Mogul tender steps available.......I do LGB locomotive repairs and DCC sound installations for customers and carry a supply of parts for that but will sell them to customers too. My Website: LGB Trains | Old Dominion Railways | Repairs & DCC Installs | United States


Would you happen to have any mogul boiler shells in stock.


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

No, no Mogul boilers. But Modell-land.de in Germany has them available. Look on their Website under LGB Spare Parts.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

I find that it not always price, it's finding what you want, or need and price is not be my first concern. Plus that guy does give free shipping with that price so his prices many not be any higher then others. 

trainman


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

trainmanfw&sw said:


> I find that it not always price, it's finding what you want, or need and price is not be my first concern. Plus that guy does give free shipping with that price so his prices many not be any higher then others.
> 
> trainman


I agree that sometimes no other source is available for a part and then the LGBDude must be used. This guy can also get real nasty when you just ask him a question about his postings and then block you from buying it.

His pricing: I sell the Mogul Tender Steps for $5 each plus $3.50 shipping Total $13.50 for two each.......his price $17 with free shipping. His price on the Mogul Steam Dyamo part is $25 plus free shipping. I sell them for $8 each plus $3.50 shipping Total $11.50. I rest my case.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

True on the Mogul Steam Dyamo, I purchased one for a Mogul re-build from OnlyTrains for the $8 price and it was added to an order for other parts, so the shipping was around $8-9 dollars, very reasonable. So all being said, I do shop around for a good price, not so much because of being tight, but just retired and nothing else to do at the time. Just to show you how things are priced, I purchased a front grill for an LGB 2063 switcher for around $12, then I purchased a second for the same price, guess what happened next, he raised the price to $17, I guess he thought they were becoming a hot selling item, glad I didn't need a third one. Since I'm at the point in my life I really don't need any more train stuff, I have found the hunt for items that I think I may need, is just another part of the hobby.

Here is the latest sale on ebay that just sold yesterday that I thought was crazy. An LGB WP&Y Alco Diesel in the Red/White paint scheme sold for $2216.00 was the closing bid. My self owing a couple of the LGB Alco's, one a WP&Y (blue/white paint), a Rio Grande, and a Santa Fe. The WP&Y (blue/white) is probably has the least valued of these three models which sells on ebay for around $350/400 dollars on the auctions there. There are a few other special LGB Alco's that were special painted that are around the $750/$1000 range, but from what I see they are not big sellers and are available if you desire one. So I guess my question is why would anyone pay $2216.00 for a Red/White WP&Y engine, did they only make 10, I guess only a collector could answer this question. Plus the WP&Y never painted and engine this color. Here is a pic of my LGB Alco repainted to my railroad colors, I bet I can do it in the Red/White paint scheme for very little red paint over the blue and have a very nice knockoff model.
















trainman


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Trainman - where did you get the "Cooke" decals (I assume they're decals)? The "Cooke" lettering on my mogul (as seen in my photos) is worn down. I'd like to refresh it.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

Those are not decals, those are the factory stamping done by LGB. I just taped them off with a cut circle of masking tape, painted the smoke box a different color of silver, then when I dull coated the engine with Testors DullCoat the two silver blended together very well. If you wanted your smoke box to be a different color I would still do the same thing as many engines had silver manufactures plates. 

trainman


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

trainmanfw&sw said:


> Those are not decals, those are the factory stamping done by LGB. I just taped them off with a cut circle of masking tape, painted the smoke box a different color of silver, then when I dull coated the engine with Testors DullCoat the two silver blended together very well. If you wanted your smoke box to be a different color I would still do the same thing as many engines had silver manufactures plates.
> 
> trainman


Thanks! The issue is that the lettering is halfway worn off (I suspect because it is a common area to grab and pick the locomotive up by). I will have to come up with another option to refresh them.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

In other news - I've done a couple more things to the mogul. The most recent one is that I noticed the power pickup was not as strong as I thought it should be on my garden RR (stuttered a little bit over the turnouts). I troubleshot and found the tender power pickup was working, but the wire was broken internal to the insulation right at the connector. So I trimmed the wire by about 1/4" and reset the connector pins onto the fresh portion of wiring and voila, power pickup is MUCH improved. Also, replaced the traction tires on it. Here she is running a mixed consist on my garden RR (build in progress)


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

LGB333$$$$ said:


> The prices for LGB parts the LGBDude on eBay are way too high. I have the LGB Mogul tender steps available.......I do LGB locomotive repairs and DCC sound installations for customers and carry a supply of parts for that but will sell them to customers too. My Website: LGB Trains | Old Dominion Railways | Repairs & DCC Installs | United States


Good to know! Do you happen to have any of the gold rings that go around the boiler? I either need to replace mine or worst case repaint them as they have definitely seen better days. I'd prefer to replace if possible as they are actually cracked in a couple of places.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

The gold rings are not a serviceable part from LGB today, but you would just have to find them from a parts engine. 

trainman


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Just a little update - I took the mogul apart just to go through it more thoroughly and restore some of the faded plastic bits, etc. 

For the brass boiler rings, one of them was cracked and broke on me during removal. I was able to find an alternative. Its 1/8" wide gold mylar tape. A tad pricey, but well worth it.









I also found the lead weight in the boiler was flaking. So I took it out, soaked it in vinegar overnight, then coated it with a thick layer of plastidip before reinstalling. Mine doesn't have the extra lead weights in the motorbox, so I didn't have to worry about coating those.








I also painted the plastic bits that were looking rough. Here's what she looks like now. Night and day difference from when I bought her.









She's quickly becoming my favorite locomotive in my collection.


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

Your engine looks great and you also are doing a great job on updating your Red/Green mogul. My Red/Green mogul got totally re-done and turned into this. Complete with RailPro battery power system, all LED lighting, with detail parts added and much work done to the engine and tender. I purchase my Red/Green mogul back when they came out back in the 1980's and it sat in the closet till the first of last year when the re-due was started, about one month to complete the engine. 

trainman


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

jordanhd87 said:


> Just a little update - I took the mogul apart just to go through it more thoroughly and restore some of the faded plastic bits, etc.
> 
> For the brass boiler rings, one of them was cracked and broke on me during removal. I was able to find an alternative. Its 1/8" wide gold mylar tape. A tad pricey, but well worth it.
> View attachment 61187
> ...


Nice work! The bottom picture looks like the cow catcher is angled downward........do you have a cracked mounting bracket for the cow catcher? I've received some Moguls from customers that are damaged during shipment when the Mogul moves around in the foam sleeve and the motor block bracket cracks.

What's plastidip? Is it similar to the GB Spay Liquid Tape Electrical I use to coat the LGB locomotive lead weights after to remove the oxidation from the lead weights?

You can also add the lead weights to your motor block........some of the first LGB 2018D Moguls were produced with the lead weights but then LGB started installing two additional lead weights into the motor blocks for added stability of the leading wheels set and better traction/pulling power. I sell them on eBay and on my Website.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

LGB333$$$$ said:


> Nice work! The bottom picture looks like the cow catcher is angled downward........do you have a cracked mounting bracket for the cow catcher? I've received some Moguls from customers that are damaged during shipment when the Mogul moves around in the foam sleeve and the motor block bracket cracks.
> 
> What's plastidip? Is it similar to the GB Spay Liquid Tape Electrical I use to coat the LGB locomotive lead weights after to remove the oxidation from the lead weights?
> 
> You can also add the lead weights to your motor block........some of the first LGB 2018D Moguls were produced with the lead weights but then LGB started installing two additional lead weights into the motor blocks for added stability of the leading wheels set and better traction/pulling power. I sell them on eBay and on my Website.


There is a slight downward angle. The bracket is bent, with what looks to be a possible hairline fracture. I epoxied it to reinforce it. It is not angled downward enough to come in contact with the rails. Can the frame be purchased? It looks like it is one piece with part of the motor block. 

Plastidip can be purchased in a "dip" format, or a spray can format. Many people use it to recoat the handles of tools, or spray a temporary coating on their cars (that can be pulled off if not left on for too long). If you leave it on, it becomes more permanent. Figure it to be a good application for the lead weight, as it is literally like dipping it into a rubberized/plastic coating. Plasti Dip® - PLASTI DIP®


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

Another thing you can do to improve the performance of your power picks is replace the tender pickup wheels with the LGB ball bearing. This also improves the drag on the tender.


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## Techgunner (Jan 13, 2021)

If you received the original box with the loco from the seller Jordan, check inside to see if the original decal sheet is in there. LGB sent a decal sticker sheet to replace the numbers and road name with every 2018D loco. I put my decal stickers to change the road name to Rio Grande.








I also replaced the wood mold with actual scaled wood I cut from a trig in my yard.


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

jordanhd87 said:


> There is a slight downward angle. The bracket is bent, with what looks to be a possible hairline fracture. I epoxied it to reinforce it. It is not angled downward enough to come in contact with the rails. Can the frame be purchased? It looks like it is one piece with part of the motor block.
> 
> Plastidip can be purchased in a "dip" format, or a spray can format. Many people use it to recoat the handles of tools, or spray a temporary coating on their cars (that can be pulled off if not left on for too long). If you leave it on, it becomes more permanent. Figure it to be a good application for the lead weight, as it is literally like dipping it into a rubberized/plastic coating. Plasti Dip® - PLASTI DIP®


Jordanhd87 - The cow catcher bracket is part of the motor block frame. You can replace the frame which requires a complete disassemble of the motor block.......that out everything and reinstall it into the new frame. Not too difficult but pretty timeconsuming. You can get the replacement frames for the LGB 2018D/2028D Moguls.......I have some in stock. Alternatively, there are a couple ways to correct the downward angle of the bracket. A customer sent his Mogul to me for some maintenance work and he had repaired his cow catcher bracket as shown in the below photos.......looks good and less work than replacing the entire motor block. He used four screws to fasten a plastic support brace and I think also epoxy the crack to hold the cow catcher at the correct angle.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

When replacing just the center block, be sure to specify 3 pin or 4 pin connections. Top and Bottom plates have 3 and 4 pin versions also. 2018D is a 3 pin motor block.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

LGB333$$$$ said:


> Jordanhd87 - The cow catcher bracket is part of the motor block frame. You can replace the frame which requires a complete disassemble of the motor block.......that out everything and reinstall it into the new frame. Not too difficult but pretty timeconsuming. You can get the replacement frames for the LGB 2018D/2028D Moguls.......I have some in stock. Alternatively, there are a couple ways to correct the downward angle of the bracket. A customer sent his Mogul to me for some maintenance work and he had repaired his cow catcher bracket as shown in the below photos.......looks good and less work than replacing the entire motor block. He used four screws to fasten a plastic support brace and I think also epoxy the crack to hold the cow catcher at the correct angle.
> View attachment 61247
> 
> 
> View attachment 61248



UPDATE on my Mogul: something snagged the cow catcher and it bent further down to the point it became a problem and started hanging up on my turnouts. I thought about using the method you showed here, but decided I would try epoxy first. So I what I did was break off the bracket, and simply epoxied it back in place while supporting it level as the epoxy cured. The break was jagged in a good way, which gave more surface area for the epoxy to bond to. It was a SUCCESS is now nice and straight and strong. In other news with the Mogul, this is one locomotive I can always count on to just work. If I just want to run a train with no fuss, this is the one that goes on the track. Power pickup is great, so it will tolerate dirty track really well. And it just RUNS. It is probably my best G scale purchase to date.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

It has power pickups in the engine and tender, 4 axles plus the shoes. This is why I always add a power pickup car behind my small 2 axle engines, or a powered tender with wiring to the small engines.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Dan Pierce said:


> It has power pickups in the engine and tender, 4 axles plus the shoes. This is why I always add a power pickup car behind my small 2 axle engines, or a powered tender with wiring to the small engines.


I've done the same with my aristo 2-4-2. It tolerates dirty track (and dirty wheels) quite nicely now. I ultimately want to do the same with my LGB 2-4-0 and bachmann big hauler.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have added power pickups to the rear tender truck on the 2-4-0 by modifing the LGB 63193 to fit on the front of the rear truck. Track power is on the rear socket of this tender. Big difference in running this engine.


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## LGB333$$$$ (Oct 11, 2017)

K-5 said:


> Would you happen to have any mogul boiler shells in stock.


Did you find an LGB Mogul boiler shell you needed?


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

A shop in Kokomo, Indiana has a super clean 2018d in stock if someone is looking for the complete locomotive. They have it priced at $598 if my memory serves me right.


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## trains4fun (Jan 1, 2013)

jordanhd87 said:


> View attachment 60995
> Thanks for all of that - great information and was very helpful. I picked it up at the sellers listed price ($100!). Started cleaning it, opened it up, the internals look dang good to me. Greased/lubed it up, will put it on the track later to test it out. Here's a pic of the internals


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## trains4fun (Jan 1, 2013)

looking for some help with a 2018D. I had to replace the idler gears that run off the worm gear of the motor and connect to the wheels.
I cannot seem to figure out how the pickups get to the motor. In the picture that I think I am replying to, it shows 2 strips connecting between the axle pickups. you can see a third wire on the left side that goes directly to the motor. I would have expected to see one of the strips touching that wire.
On the other side of the motor block, there are 3 pins that attach to a green, brown and white wire. The green and the white pins are what attach to the motor and there is no obvious connection to the brown pin. However that is the pin that the track pickup strip contacts.
If I move the strip to the left (does not want to go there naturally) I can get the train to run, but if I set it up in the configuration shown in the picture, there no power to the motor.

What am I missing?

Rich


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The strips are track power and connect to the rear connector via the board in the firebox to give power connection to the tender and the track power jack on the rear of the tender. Motor is only connected to one power strip for track power, the other motor lead goes to the switch in the firebox. Switch should be all the way to the right for all features to work on the LGB moguls. All the way left is nothing will work. Middle position/s is for lights to work but not the motor.


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## trains4fun (Jan 1, 2013)

trains4fun said:


> looking for some help with a 2018D. I had to replace the idler gears that run off the worm gear of the motor and connect to the wheels.
> I cannot seem to figure out how the pickups get to the motor. In the picture that I think I am replying to, it shows 2 strips connecting between the axle pickups. you can see a third wire on the left side that goes directly to the motor. I would have expected to see one of the strips touching that wire.
> On the other side of the motor block, there are 3 pins that attach to a green, brown and white wire. The green and the white pins are what attach to the motor and there is no obvious connection to the brown pin. However that is the pin that the track pickup strip contacts.
> If I move the strip to the left (does not want to go there naturally) I can get the train to run, but if I set it up in the configuration shown in the picture, there no power to the motor.
> ...





Dan Pierce said:


> The strips are track power and connect to the rear connector via the board in the firebox to give power connection to the tender and the track power jack on the rear of the tender. Motor is only connected to one power strip for track power, the other motor lead goes to the switch in the firebox. Switch should be all the way to the right for all features to work on the LGB moguls. All the way left is nothing will work. Middle position/s is for lights to work but not the motor.


Dan, you and Jordan are genius, I knew that switch was there and assumed it turned on smoke and maybe the light. Did not consider that it would switch the motor on and off. I never tried a different position because I never touch it. I must have bumped it when I took the locomotive apart (multiple times).
Thanks to both of you.
P.S. Thanks for the quick response. My grandson is on me every day to get the locomotive working.

Rich


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The first thing I do is download the user's manual for a new toy. Seems that no one has suggested that in 3 pages of posts. Strange.


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Greg Elmassian said:


> The first thing I do is download the user's manual for a new toy. Seems that no one has suggested that in 3 pages of posts. Strange.


Not correct. Look at post #9 in this thread.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Little too quick on the trigger there... did you ACTUALLY open that manual (no), it is not the user manual that describes the switch. (it is a parts diagram).

As I said I START with the user manual...


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## jordanhd87 (Dec 9, 2020)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Little too quick on the trigger there... did you ACTUALLY open that manual (no), it is not the user manual that describes the switch. (it is a parts diagram).
> 
> As I said I START with the user manual...


Ah yes, you are correct it was the parts breakdown. But if you peruse the root of that URL address (onlytrains.com) the user manual can be found for this model and many other LGB models. Guess it's such second nature for me to find and look at the manuals I forget to specifically refer other people to it.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, clearly it can be found as suggested. Just the comment that if the OP had the user manual, then the switch function would have been specified in that manual. You still would have to make the leap to connect the issue with the switch position.

This happens all the time, that switch gets bumped, and it's not obvious you turned something on or off. Very typical LGB thing. I've done it too.


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