# KKaydee Height Gauge - What's the diff?



## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

I see that Kaydee makes a #1 gauge coupler height gauge and a G-scale coupler height gauge. What's the difference, if any, other than the size of the coupler?

Bill


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

1/16" from centerline to top of rail. "G-scale" is 1 1/8", #1-scale is 1 1/16". 

Later, 

K


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

you can make your own for the price of one coupler


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## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

THANKS! Ya'll just saved me about $15.00. 

Bill


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Which is wrong in that picture Marty? The car or the gauge? 

I think I'll keep my gauge from Kadee!









Regards, Greg


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

Also, the Kadee gauge has a place to check the coupler mounting surface height.


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## John McGuyer (Jan 2, 2008)

My gauge is even simpler yet. It is a piece of aluminum with two notches at the bottom which sit on the rails and a square hole that the coupler has to pass through. It is very small and can even fit in your pocket. 

John


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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm in Marty's camp.....make your own.

I had the acrylic laying around so it too was just the cost of a coupler.










Brian B.
DT&I 1980ish


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

If you're going to install KaDee uncoupling magnets, the KaDee gauge is also the gluing fixture for the magnet.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine surface checker is on the back. bottom of the board 
Greg the car is off. the coupler center is right at 1 1/8" off rail. 

If I remember right, the gauges are around $70 not 15. 

On my RR you could be an 1/8" off and still stay coupled. 
I like the plastic one, but mine was built way back before I knew anything about styrene.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Geez Marty,you must have priced the gold plated version. Street price on the gauges through mail order is as low as $13.28.


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 12/14/2008 8:13 AM
Mine surface checker is on the back. bottom of the board 
Greg the car is off. the coupler center is right at 1 1/8" off rail. 

If I remember right, the gauges are around $70 not 15. 

On my RR you could be an 1/8" off and still stay coupled. 
I like the plastic one, but mine was built way back before I knew anything about styrene.


I like Kadee's height gauge have used it for years andI just checked the price at Kadee's web site it is- $17.95 BUT it's NOT gold plated







but it is "5 tools in 1" and like Paul said cheaper on the street.....








http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/height.htm


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I have no idea where I heard that, seems to me it was too high way back when I built it. 
Besides, the Kadee one will short the rail out for all of you who run full power to the rail all the time.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

My height gauge was a bit more expensive, but on the other hand, it came with a locomotive.  










Of course, my couplers are also set higher than what Kadee recommends, because they're mounted at a proper height for 1:20.3, not 1:32, so the Kadee gauge would have to be modified anyway. 

Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You are right Marty, sometimes I forget to turn off the track power on my "test track"... but the sparks usually tell me something is wrong! ha ha! 

yeah Kevin, 1-1/8" in 1:20.32 is 22.86" right? in 1:29 it's 32.6, and I thought 33" was pretty prototypical. 

Regards, Greg


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## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

Remember, once you let the magic smoke out, you can't put it back in and make things work.









The Kaydee gauge was $12 something. With shipping it would have been around $15 or so.

Think I'll sacrifice a coupler and build my own now that I know the height.


Bill


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Remember that the height gauge is made from metal (sturdy), and that it also has a projection to gauge the proper mounting height of the coupler, i.e. you can put the gauge on the track with a car and see where you need to cut or fill to get the coupler mounting pad the correct height. This is besides the obvious function of checking the height of an installed coupler. 

To me it's a good deal, considering the total cost of my trains, couplers, etc. 

Regards, Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Greg, 1 3/16" for a scale 24". I use the #1 scale coupler because it scale out for a 3/4-size coupler that was used by many (particularly eastern) narrow gauge railroads.

Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I believe the #1 scale coupler is actually closer in scale size for 1:29, but after reading about how Kadees can ride over, and knowing the grades I would have and wanting to run very long trains, I resigned myself to live with the slight oversize in return for greater reliability. 

So far, it seems to have been the right decision for me. 

Regards, Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Wait until Accucraft's new operable 1:32 coupler becomes available as a separate item. Same mount as a Kadee 820, so it will be a drop-in retrofit. 

Later, 

K


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## SteveF (Jan 2, 2008)

Having grown up with Lionel trains, the #1 coupler just looked too small for my eye, so I went with the "G" coupler. I've found that they (the #1 and the "G" sized couplers) will work fairly well together, and have had no problems with them coming uncoupled, only with operator error. 

If memory serves, there is a fairly accurate track gauge contained in the Kadee gizmo, too.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The track gauge is ok, but you really need a min and mas. The part on the right is how you check if the coupler mounting pad is the right height from the rail. The Wheel gauge part is ok, but sloppy, it is too dependent on the thickness of the very edge of the flange, not the right place to measure.


Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty worried about track power shorting with the kadee gauge Hummm maybe he is thinking of going DC.







And I thought I was cheap. Later RJD


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

ok A couple questions 

I just put an 831 Kadee on my LGB 2-4-0 Steamer. The couplers came out right at 1 1/8th ctr line above the rail. At first the coupler looked way too high, but it was the same height as my LGB knuckle couplers on my LGB 2 bay coal hopper. But now all my Aristocraft and Bachmann locos and frt cars are low. Like 3/4 inch above the rail. Is this typical? Also, I see alot of people have cut the arm off the bottom of the Kadee couplers. Why is this? 

Randy


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The Bachmann heights have been all over the planet... and the Aristo ones are severely affected by the trucks, and springs, and what wheels you have... 

Follow the Kadee gauge, the other manufacturers are coming along... Aristo finally made a coupler pad that has 2 out of the 3 criteria correct... amazing... now if they only got the height right, but there's shims for the 830's.... did you notice the shims supplied with the 831's? 

Regards, Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes I seen the shims


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

A lot of folks have trouble with the simulated air hose hanging too low and catching in turnouts, sound magnets, or debris on the right of way. They may just need bent up a little, some just cut them off.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By rlvette on 24 Jul 2009 06:56 PM 
ok A couple questions 
Also, I see alot of people have cut the arm off the bottom of the Kadee couplers. Why is this? 

Randy 
If you are not going to us magnetic uncoupling, the "arms" don't serve any purpose. Some people remove them because they think the appearance is more realistic without them.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you mount the couplers properly, you will not have trouble with the uncoupling arms... the only thing they can hit is debris. 

Properly means the right height, and not loosely so that the coupler remains horizontal. 

If someone has to bend them up, my experience has shown a problem that is not the Kadee's problem. 

Of course, if you do not want the remote uncoupling feature, you can cut them off as already stated. 

(sound magnets should not be higher than the rail tops... the Kadee arm is specified at 1/8" above the rail top) 

Regards, Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I was lucky, I found a #1 height gauge with coupler and uncoupling magnet all for $5.00. Just have to remember to check gauge on a non-powered track.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually, that reminds me of a "hidden" use of the gauge on DCC layouts: testing for proper circuit breaker tripping. 

In HO, the common test to make sure your wiring is good (can supply enough current) and that your circuit breaker is working, is to put a quarter on the track. 

I put my Kadee gauge on the track, and it did trip the circuit breaker... made some sparks though! Ha ha!. 

Reminded me of how much current can be pumped out! 

Regards, Greg


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