# Split Jaw for LGB



## [email protected] (Apr 13, 2014)

I am planning my first outdoor layout near Atlanta and have a couple of questions regarding using Split Jaw clamps with LGB track. Want to do it right the first time to avoid future issues, so any assistance will be appreciated:


1) I am getting different opinions on if Split Jaw clamps are recommended over using the standard LGB rail joiners. I believe that the Split Jaws would eliminate any future trouble with electrical issues. My local train store says they are not necessary. Can anyone share their experience?


2) When using clamps, is it recommended to use "expanding rail" sections to allow for track expansion?


Thanks!


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

You will receive many suggestions from the posters here. I live in NC and use Split Jaws for all my connections. I used to use rail joiners but found that joiners got dirty and effected continuity. Since I began using Split Jaws, I have no connectivity issues. They are expensive but are well worth the price. Whether you need expansion sections depends on how your track is laid. I float mine in ballast and the track is free to move with heating and cooling. If you attach your track to the roadbed, whatever that may be, you may need expansion sections for long, straight runs.

Doc


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Over the rail clamps do more than just connect the track.
I find they align the rails better and after years outdoors, they keep the rails aligned.
Joiners will never align the rails as they are not very strong.
And I use a conductive paste when assembling and when taken apart for switch repair, I found the brass to be very bright and clean where the clamp was placed.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

I used a mix of aristo slip joiners and split jaw on free floating ballasted track. 

The slip joiners are slowly coming out as I have connection failures. The biggest reason is maintenance. Some of my track has been sitting in the ballast for 10 years and finally nice and happy in the road bed. As mentioned earlier, over time stuff gets in the slip joiners and they have to be cleaned.

This creates a problem in that changing a slip joiner requires moving more track than just the two pieces being connected and messing up my ballast for many feet. Makes me unhappy.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I use both. I only put one screw on one side of the slip joints. It allows my track to move. I have concrete road bed. Put in a Anchor every 4 of 5 feet. I also run battery power so continuity is not a issue. I also live near Phoenix AZ. 

If you are going to run track power I would say use the Split Jaw clamps. It is worth it.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

My suggestion: Remove the stock joiners. They will fail you sooner or later if you use track power. Use split jaw or rquivalent after market clamps. Use a dab of conductive grease under clamp and on side of track to discourage oxidation. Do not try to clamp over existing stock joiners. Remove them. Buy your clamps in boxes of 50 or more for best price.

Jerry


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

As others have posted, conductive grease helps to prevent oxidation in the connectors. A word of caution, try to not walk into the house wearing shoes after using conductive grease. 

Ask me how I know. 

The wife did not appreciate the smear of black grease from my shoes on her light gray carpeting. Leave your shoes outside, work gloves and possibly clothes too depending on how careful you are apply the grease.

A thin blade screwdriver works well to apply and smear on the grease.


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used split-jaw clamps with my lgb track for six years and have had no problems. I also removed the lgb rail clamps and just used the split-jaws.


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been using Splitjaw over the rail clamps for more than a decade and live in southwestern Ontario. These clamps are really needed more on the curves where the weight of the consist pushes against the outside edge. I don't use conductive grease either.
Splitjaw are the strongest of the railclamps. Some brands are made of a softer metal and have a tendency to break over a short period of time.
There is also a financial aspect to this. The Splitjaw clamps that go over the rail cost more and as such are not in high demand when the time comes when you wish to sell them. This also holds true of the track that now needs a pair of joiners for resale.
No one is in the hobby for life. Track is a major investment along with the railclamps. One has to keep the future in mind with so much invested in a hobby.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Would this conductive grease work for outdoor use?

http://www.amazon.com/ounce-A-Speci...sr=8-16&keywords=Electrical+conductive+grease


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

Eric,
Looks like it would do the job just fine. I use the old LGB conductive grease. I like the fact it comes in a tube which makes it east to apply. Can't get it now but Piko and Train Li have their versions in tubes for easy application.
Steve


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with the others about removing the original joiners. You will need to apply some conducting grease to the rail joiner before you use the clamp. It is easy to apply the grease to the free end of the joiner, but making sure you have some under the fixed end is not that easy. You will want good conductivity between the rail and the joiner as well as between the joiner and the clamp. In the long run, I think that it is easier to just remove the joiner.

Chuck


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I only used clamps where I couldn't use the SS joiner, Aristo Stainless Steel track. I torque the screws tight and yes fine grit gets inside, but I was counting on the physical integrity of the screws for continuity, not the friction fit of slip ons.
I only used clamps when threads were bad, holes off or custom cut ends.
When I converted to battery the above switched to holding the track together. Still works great for me.
I hope you have good luck too. I live in S az and I let the whole layout float, I find it grows as a unit and I've never seen a kink.
John


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

ewarhol said:


> Would this conductive grease work for outdoor use?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/ounce-A-Speci...sr=8-16&keywords=Electrical+conductive+grease


In addition to my question from yesterday, I found some automotive dielectric grease I had. Anyone try something like this?


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