# Kadee Couplers



## cyrtonyx (May 1, 2011)

New to the scale. Have inherited some LGB and have added Aristo and USAT rollingstock. A mix of couplers and it is clear it is not going to work. Problems coupling/uncoupling etc. What model of Kadee coupler would I need for the three manufacurers of rolling stock I have? I need them to be truck mounted as I have a couple of 4' diameter curves. Any advice welcomed.
Thanks!

--Cyrtonyx


----------



## 6323 (Jan 17, 2008)

I used KD 831 on my Aristo and USAT cars. 
Truck mount. Minor modification needed. 
Takes maybe 5 - 10 minutes, depending on how the mods are made. 
It'll take me maybe 10 minutes. 
Based on personal experience only! 
Mileage may vary.


----------



## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

Good place to start is the Kadee website:

http://www.kadee.com/

Look under Conversions.

But more than one way to skin a cat









Alan


----------



## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Cyrtonyx; 

As already mentioned, 831 and 833 couplers will work with a majority of the cars. The link Alan gave you will be very helpful for locomotives and the "exceptions." After you have some experience with Kadees, you will become proficient at modifying standard Kadee couplers to fit special situations. ( I just modified the shank of a Kadee 830 to fit the pilot pocket on the Hartland Locomotive Works LaPorte Forney locomotive.) 

Best, 
David Meashey


----------



## cyrtonyx (May 1, 2011)

Thanks, guys. That Kadee website is a trove of information. 

--Cyrtonyx


----------



## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For long trains, body mount is a must with the kadees.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Because this is a beginners forum, I want to modify Dan's 3 posts: 

Body mounts are great, really for any trains, but you need to remember that tight curves will control if you can go body mounts or not, and also there are also some restrictions on automatic uncoupling and tighter curves. 

My opinion is that body mounts on 40' cars and shorter should be limited to curves of 8' diameter and greater... if you are under 8' diameter, or run longer cars/locomotive, I'd test body mounts out to see if they work ok. 

Not to confuse the issue, but there are "tweaks" to the coupler mounting, types of Kadee draft gear, and modifications to the draft gear itself that can "bend" these "rules", but you need more experience first. 

Start out conservative and successful and enjoy reliable operation, then later as you learn, you can "push the envelope". 

Greg


----------



## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Add to list for California: 

Talbot's Toyland, 445 South B Street, San Mateo, CA 94401 (650) 931-8110 
http://www.talbotstoyland.com/ 

Talbot's web site appears to be fairly new, and having called Talbot's, I am told that it is still being worked on, and it will be updated to include train products that it currently does not show. 

Talbot's is one of those few non franchise stores left where I first purchased items to get started in "G" scale - maybe 12 years ago. 
Talbot's will order items they don't have through a distributor. 

-Ted


----------



## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

*As a long time user of Kadee couplers, (well over 50 years) I'd strongly *
*recommend U get rid of the 4 ft dia curves, then body mount... The smaller *
*820 series couplers will work fine down to 6 ft dia when body mounted, *
*but thats about as low as U can go with 40 ft class cars... Since KDs offer 
**no particular advantages **when truck mounted, an in some cases they R ill*
*suited for the job when truck mounted... I believe U would probably be *
*better off to pick the AC, USA, or LGB coupler U like best and truck mount *
*them on all Ur rolling stock... Most folks that I know chose the AC couplers *
*for their truck mounts... There would be a couple of advantages here as well, *
*a lot less work involved, an a lot less cost too...*
*Paul R...*


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I agree with virtually all of that Paul, and do respect your experience. 

I have left the stock aristo couplers on my Aristo HW passenger cars for example, since the "shelf" prevents coupler override on vertical grades. 

But, when you say the the is a "lot less cost", what do you have to pay for a pair of AR couplers? They look just about the same price as I remember... maybe I was looking at list price on the AC site... 

Greg


----------



## W3NZL (Jan 2, 2008)

I've really got no idea what AC couplers cost Greg, never bought any, like most KD users I guess, I give them, 
and other types, away to my friends by the fist-full...hehe This fella probably already has a bunch of cars with
AC couplers anyway, so he's probably at least somewhat ahead of the game...
Paul R...


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Was not trying to be picky, but when you said "using AC couplers... could be a "lot less cost" than Kadees, well I have a friend that buys Aristo cars, takes off the couplers, and basically sells them on ebay for enough to buy his Kadees... so the net cost to go to Kadee is zero for him. 

Just trying not to create or further a myth about how expensive it is to go to Kadees... in this particular case, there's plenty of people who need to buy replacement Aristo couplers. 

Just giving some experience in this particular instance. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, 

I think Paul is saying that sinc crytonix already has some cars equipped with AC couplers, he would not have to buy new couplers for those cars. Since he would have to buy less sets of couplers, it would be cheaper. Not cheaper on a car by car basis, but cheaper for the conversion of the remaining cars only.


----------

