# Glue for USA trains shells & styrene?



## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi all,

I'm about to start a little kit-bashing project using a USA trains SD40-2 shell. I need to be able to glue styrene to it if possible, hopefully using the same solvent I use for the styrene. Can anyone tell me what will work?

Thanks
Keith


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

ON all my loco work I have used "Jet" - Medium... super glues, using the small dot method, i.e.,.. not lots of glue. 

This bonds to the loco plastic used by both A/C and USA Trains, and PVC or ABS products that I might add to a loco project! 

I have used Jet glues for over 20 years on R/C aircraft projects and continue so now on Model trains also, including any metals I may use in the process too!!! 

And of course your mileage may vary, depending on prep work before gluing starts. Always have a stripped of paint and sanded clean surface when you can, before gluing on any new parts.

Good luck and happy bashing, & Show us your work too!! THX

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great tip Dirk, I've had trouble getting stuff to hold on those plastics. 

If you are not sanding the surface, what solvent prep would be good? 

Thanks, Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Of course paint removal is important here, 91% Alcohol, sand paper - whatever - get the paint off where glue goes - Period...!! 

Glue does not stick to paint for any solid and lasting "structural parts"... 

If a clean bare surface - a lite wipe down with lacquer thinner also helps to clean and remove any particles left behind and it cleans sanded areas well also.. 

But I have had to just work at a bare surface with multiple wipings with a soaked rag and thinner to get the paint off... Bare in mind we are talking internal surfaces here, not detailed exterior areas. Strong paint thinner will dissolve the detail if it is too wet and stays on too long... 'nuph said!! 

Given the area to be worked I do try to rough up the glue joint surface before gluing - using any method that will work! Even on my 7-bay long hopper cars, there is a 1/8" ply-wood splice across the joints inside on flat areas that again is supper glued together, and these have not created a issue later on! Both the pastlic and ply are rough sanded first and cleaned. I use a lot of those finger nail file boards to sand with; cheap, you can buy lots of 'em, and they are sized just right for Our hobby work!

Anything else? I have generally used really good auto-motive grade paint thinners also for my work. Why? I have it around and it is stronger than most stuff on the market, and works well... 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I will give ALL credit to "Fletch" - down under - Our very own Master Class Master himself, ... 

...... for the small dot glue technique................. too much never drys, and creates a great deal of hydraulic-ing presense between two plastic parts, not so with some materials like wood products that can absorb some of the glue... 

the glue gets us pushing parts out of alignment when we try to add pressure to 'em, more like ball bearings than glue here. 

He learned' me this trick about 8-9 years ago!! THX Fletch!! 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

Keith, Ambroid ProWeld is a very good glue for styrene. I have been using it for years and it continues to hold. I use it for my styrene bridges that live outside year round and they stay together. 
Ron


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Great info, thanks very much guys! 

Keith


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

While I haven't used MEK to glue styrene to USA trains plastic, I have used it to glue different plastics together (ABS to styrene, ABS to PVC, etc). MEK is cheap and seems to hold fairly well. You just need to buy a needle applicator to apply the glue as it is very runny. 

Craig


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