# 1st gen bachmann 4-6-0



## Phantom197 (Jul 22, 2015)

I just got what I think is a 1st gen bachmann 4-6-0 big hauler. It has the rc component and has 6 d batteries. What I want to do to the loco is give it a whole new chassis, an upgrade from the plastic wheels and drive gear. Is it possible to put a recharable battery in place of the 6 D batteries? I would think so as long as it hooks up and fits in the boiler. One last thing. I tested the loco and it does not go in reverse. I move the lever to reverse and boom nothing happens. Any ideas? This will be my project loco as I already have an aristo pacific and a bachmann 2-4-2t Thanks!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think Bachmann still has the chassis sale on... so that solves your (drive) wheels and gearbox.

So now you need a rechargeable battery and really a control system, if the old system is not running, doubt that repairing it other than obvious broken connections is worth it.

Greg


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## Phantom197 (Jul 22, 2015)

The old system does work and i dont think getting a whole new rc system is worth it. It only does not work in reverse. Could be something in the engine or controller who knows. Maybe upgrading drivetrain will fix that.


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## Fred Mills (Nov 24, 2008)

I doubt very much that you will enjoy the change over to a new drive, and retain the R/C control system...in fact it is very, very probable that it won't work...period.

The original drive on that model is far different than the replacement drive. The motor itself was a different one. 
Don't waste your time and frustration. Just the fact that the existing control system is an AM one, gives many many glitches.
The only reason to go ahead, is to save money by giving you, with a lot of work, possibly a reasonable track powered 10 wheeler. The R/C system is not much more than a piece of junk.
Sorry for seeming unkind, but others seem reluctant to call a spade a spade, and give you the facts. It might be worth more to keep it as is, and treat it as a collection piece, on a shelf somewhere, not that its value will ever grow much in your life time.. Put the money on a brand new model, with the latest drive, and pilot truck upgrades, and run it on track power, until you can afford a new control system, either R/C, battery, or DCC.

Fred Mills


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Phantom,

Is this the set you have? If it is, don't waste your time or money on it. I bought this one in the mid 1980's and put it under the tree. Lasted all of a week and hasn't worked since. It's been stored in my garage rafters for over thirty years. I wouldn't waste the gas to take it to be recycled! These photos were taken less than two weeks ago. The whole set is pristine except it doesn't work!


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

If it won't reverse, the problem is almost guaranteed to be the R/C system causing it.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

6 d batteries is 10.2 volts max (read when new/fresh) and more likely 9 volts average.

The newer chassis has a higher voltage motor so it would not run very fast on the old electronics.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Like they all said - don't bother with a new chassis as it isn't compatible with the r/c battery system.
There should be a cable with your loco that connects a rechargeable battery to a couple of pins in the floor of the battery chamber. It was supplied in the original sets and lets you use a r/c car battery. I think they recommended 7.2V.

We wouldn't be so negative if the current locos were expensive - but you can get a 5th or 6th gen 4-6-0 for less than $100. They are quite decent. Or buy the chassis and fit it so you have a track-powered loco.

Finally, the source of all info is George Schreyer's technical tips website:
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html


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## Phantom197 (Jul 22, 2015)

Thanks for being honest guys. The loco wad thrown in with 3 passenger cars for a total of $90 so it was free basically. It can just be a shed piece then. In total me and my uncle have a lot more locos to focus on. The 2 i said before are ones i own completely. If I were to get a big hauler I would just go ahead and get an anniversary edition. For now I am going to focus on either some n scale stuff or getting rc/sound in the aristo pacific


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with the others. I had running problems with mine and repainted and relettered it for a decorative object. Because it has plastic wheels, I can place in on a siding for visual effect and not have to worry about whether the siding is powered of not. Here is a picture of mine sitting under a coaling tower.










Three Bachmann passenger cars for $90 isn't a bad deal.

Chuck


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## mcr22 (Mar 10, 2018)

*big hauler battery cable pin out*

HI...want to use a rechargeable battery instead of the 6 D cells. I need to know the pinout for the 4 pin socket on battery box floor to be able to make up a suitable cable
Thanks


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted your answer on gscale.net.

See my web page with your answer.

https://elmassian.com/index.php?opt...article&id=251:big-hauler&catid=14&Itemid=283

Greg

Greg


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Converted mine to a 2-6-2 prairie using a mogul chassis 2080 rear trailing truck. This is a reprint of a post I did in GRW about it. It's about an inch longer than my LGB mogul with tender. 







Remember the "G" scale coaling tower that came with the first battery powered 4-6-0 Bachmann train sets, well this is the engine from that set. Just now getting around to making it hole again and finishing details I left off years ago. Built in 1995 hence the engine # 501. Lettering has disappeared and sound system has failed but all in all engine is still in good shape, I shortened the smoke box by 1 set of rivets and shortened the boiler up to the last boiler ban. moved the steam generator to the center. Again as before I used cotter pins with pop rivets bases to make railing stanchions. Use to drive by an old Prairie up in Leesburg, Fl. when I covered that area, took pictures and did research on the engine. Unusual to see electrical wires run through the boiler grab rails but that was the way it was built, Shortened the tender by about an inch, trying to keep the engine /tender as short as possible. mounted the boiler on a LGB Mogul motor block and added trailing truck from a LGB 2080. Rope is copper wire strands twisted. If you notice the air tank on the back of the tender it is a cigar tube that my dad had. The fireman is screwed to the draw bar between the engine and tender and when the train is moving, he moves all around. Originally had a flat plate under him which is now open and cant find the part. Plan on cleaning the engine up and lettering the tender again. I also have a LGB Mogul and use it for my passenger train, the prairie is my freight. I will up date pictures as I progress, Bill


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So, the motorblock is now LGB so you solved that issue of the old gearbox and plastic wheels and plastic siderods.

mcr22's problem and this thread are solved, I got him the pinout and wiring for the Bachmann adapter cable

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

That's got a nice look to it. Kinda chunky. I like it. Maybe someday I'll get inspired to get going on my Bachmann 4-6-0 to 2-6-2 conversion again. The mood still has not struck me yet. 

Later,

K


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