# LGB Coop Container Car



## kclarey1 (Dec 27, 2013)

Hi all,

I received an LGB 45897 Coop Container Car recently as a gift and have been having some issues with it. I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the same. 

First off the trucks follow the track... (I'm running R2 and R3); after going through a curve and going into a straight-away they remain turned, basically shaving/scraping down the track. Second off I must always put it at the end of a train as anything coupled to it won't remain coupled for long. I know I should just put couplers on both ends of my cars but I haven't gone around to it nor has it ever been necessary. 

Bottom line is I've owned a lot of LGB over the years and this one was the first problem child. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Kyle

*Edit* I replaced the original plastic wheels with a ball bearing set thinking that would help.


----------



## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I only run double hook and loops and metal wheels on all my cars.
Outside I prefer the solid metal wheels as these are heavier for a lower center of gravity and are vewry wind resistant.
Indoors the LGB rim type of wheels work great.


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I have two of these. Personally, I don't like the swiveling axle assemblies common to LGB's two axle cars. I find the bogie cars function better.

I want to try modifying one to fix the axle assembly in a centered position, but haven't done so yet.

As for uncoupling, how level is your track? I have a few places where tracks go from carpet to bare floor, and some cars do tend to uncouple in those places; longer cars are worse. LGB include a second coupling hook in the box, and having hooks on both cars should fix the uncoupling.


----------



## kclarey1 (Dec 27, 2013)

Thanks for your ideas. Yeah the axle assemblies on them aren't great. My track is fairly level but I think I'm going to have to compromise and and use hooks on both cars.


----------



## stevenfitch (May 21, 2015)

I have three of these and they derail with the slightest variation is track - i have noticed that compared to all other LGB stock that i have that they are very light weight.

I have tried adding some weight to them but putting a flat sheet of lead (spare roof flashing) inside the car but i think this is too high up for stability, next will try hanging some weight under the flat car bed.

These seem to be a lower quality than i have come to expect from LGB.


----------



## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

kclarey1 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I received an LGB 45897 Coop Container Car recently as a gift and have been having some issues with it. I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the same.
> 
> First off the trucks follow the track... (I'm running R2 and R3); after going through a curve and going into a straight-away they remain turned, basically shaving/scraping down the track.


I have come across that as well.

I have seen a couple of articles on the net where people designed a linkeage underneath the car that connects the two trucks and prevents this from happening.

There are also some commercial kits available to do the same thig - one is this one here:
http://www.gbdb.info/details.php?image_id=6792&mode=search&l=english

Knut


----------



## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

----


----------



## stevenfitch (May 21, 2015)

Any idea how to order those kits?

EDIT

Figured it out, the user guide on the page linked above (this forum wont let me post a link!) has a link to website and email address... all in German and e-mail sent in English so lets hope the guy on the other end is better with my language than i am with his!


----------



## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I have found the Kadee centering pieces work well on the smaller 2 axle cars (#839), and I also have used the truck mod which tied the 2 trucks together. I used scrap plastic from the kits I built.

I did have a package of 833 couplers which contained the parts which are the same as the #839.


----------



## stevenfitch (May 21, 2015)

ordered and fitted three of the sets from above from Germany - Problem solved.
The kit was ony 6 EUR pr car plus 4 EUR postage so not exctly a bank breaker!


----------



## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I just finished locking the swivelling trucks on two of mine by just putting a screw through the chassis into the truck--no problems now. I use steel wheels and hook and loops at both ends too. As long as your curves aren't to severe locking them up seems to work great. The detail on these cars is really good--but I agree they are finicky when you're backing up with them etc.


----------



## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

Do these cars with the trucks fixed still negotiate R1 both forward and backwards without a lot of drag?


----------



## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

krs said:


> Do these cars with the trucks fixed still negotiate R1 both forward and backwards without a lot of drag?


Hi Knut,

I don't have any curves that tight (which is why I felt it would not be an issue for me to lock the trucks). I suspect if you have R1 curves it may cause trouble, but sorry I have no way of testing this.

Keith


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

stevenfitch said:


> Any idea how to order those kits?
> 
> EDIT
> 
> Figured it out, the user guide on the page linked above (this forum wont let me post a link!) has a link to website and email address... all in German and e-mail sent in English so lets hope the guy on the other end is better with my language than i am with his!


Steve,
We had problems with people joining to spam us, so you have a limit of several posts without links, to prove to us you are real and not a bot.

This too shall pass. We really want your participation.
John


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So is the technical issue that there is no innate mechanism that will re-center the trucks after a turn, or too much friction/poor design?

Greg 1,183


----------



## stevenfitch (May 21, 2015)

So an update on this from my point of view:
I have sucsesfully installed three of these on my containers and it improved performance so well they went from my worst running stock to the best.... Ordered another three containers and the rod kits.

I have also just changed all of the stock plastic wheels on any of my stock to metal (the Bachmann ones which are IRO £20 for a pack of 4) this had had a massive improvement.

In relation to the containers going round R1 curves, I have R3 minimum but I have a double slip which it basically an R1 and they navigate it fine (but that's only 15degrees of R1).

Another solution I have devised which doesn't work as well but is very cheap and DIY is to construct a spring made out of piano wire to re-centre the axel (pictures to follow). I actually used the spring wire from a DCC Concepts Cobalt point motor as used on indoor layouts but it's basically the same as piano wire. I got the idea from some 00 gauge trucks which have a similar fine spring to draw double axel bogies back to centre.


----------



## stevenfitch (May 21, 2015)

ok i tried but i still cant post a picture


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I dealt with my 4-wheel LGB cars by fixing the swivels with a few pieces of plastic. In the photo, the white squares are 1/4" plastic square tube cut just over 1/4" long and glued on the swiveling piece so they jam against the car frame to stop the swivel.










Incidentally, while I have them apart, I put one "truck" (swiveling axle assembly) up to my belt sander and take off a little at either side of the center pivot. That allows the truck to wobble from side to side slightly - a bit like compensation, or the 3-legged stool.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Is it just the lens angle or is one of the wheels cockeyed?


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Lens, look at the lower wheel, it shows the same spherical distortion, just a bit less.

Greg 902


----------

