# Removing Xmas from Sam's Club Speical cars



## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Like a lot of people I purchased one of the Bachmann 2005 Sam's Club Xmas special sets. It's a nice Annie with a combo car and a passenger car. 

But the Xmas decorations, especially the "snow frosted" windows did little for me and I figured it would be easy to remove same. 

Easy is a relative term however. But I've haunted the forums here and picked up lots of very useful information including the tip on a degreaser called Super Clean that can be used to remove decals from Bachmann cars without eating the paint and plastic. 

But knowing what to do, and knowing how to do it, are two very different things. I do not have a vat to soak something as large as a Bachmann passenger car in, nor do I want to purchase gallons of what is, after all, a fairly toxic chemical. 

So I started with Q-tips, laboriously dipping and rubbing and much to my surprise it worked! But it was very time consuming. So I tried to figure out how to localize the Super Clean to only selected spots while at the same time allowing the chemical to stay on the areas to be de-Xmased for a good 10 minutes. 

Here's what I came up with. 










I used cotton to cover just the spots where I wanted to soak the Super Clean and using an eyedropper put just enough of the chemical to wet the cotton. 











10 minutes later I carefully, using tweezers, pulled up the cotton (you really don't want to get Super Clean on your skin) and then cleaned up the goo with Q-tips and then wet (with water) paper towels. The results so far have been good and the process very fast. 











In the picture above you see the original passenger car with Xmas decorations on top, and the Super Cleaned combo car below. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Whoa that appears to have worked really well. Thanks for sharing.


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## Guest (Sep 4, 2008)

Super Clean might be toxic but wait till you find out what China used to paint them with...../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sick.gif 
Toad


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

That really worked well!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

That's great, TJ. Thanks for sharing that product. I haven't tried that one yet but sure will get some. Thanks again.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Robert, Toby, 

The cotton to keep the stuff only where the decals were really made it quick and easy. I was able to keep some lettering, for example, while taking off the lettering right above it. 

Super Clean has the consistancy and look of Windex (but DO NOT get this stuff on your skin!) so it will run, but the cotton kept it right where I wanted it with the bonus of absorbing most of the decal paint making only minimal residual clean up necessary. 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Toad, 

> but wait till you find out what China used to paint them with..... 

I can only imagine ;-). 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan, 

> Thanks for sharing that product. 

I found out about Super Clean, like everything else I've learned about the hobby including some wonderful information provided by yourself, right here on MLS. 

I think I first heard of Super Clean in a post by Kevin Strong (but am not absolutly sure about that) and there has been the occasional reference to it here and there. Took me a while to find it (Wal Mart) and like so many things it sat on my hobby table for months before I got around to playing with it last night. But it will do the job. Have to see if I got all the residual off and that I have not damaged the paint but so far it looks very positive. 

I didn't read the label until after I had it soaking the cotton and noticed the label recommends wearing gloves when handling the stuff. Looking at my thumb and index finger this morning I'd say that is probably good advice. I will be MUCH MORE careful in handling this stuff in the future. But it works slick as can be. 

Best, 
TJ


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

I've used castrol super clean for years. There is a another product that is a ripoff of it called "coastal power clean" it is the same exact thing and works just as well. But, unlike most i do have a big vat of the stuff. I bought a 22 gallon storage tub and filled it with 5-6 gallons of super clean. When i want to strip an entire car i disassemble it & throw it in for a few days. When it comes out a good rinse and a lil work with a toothbrush and, viola. I also have a coffe can of the stuff that i strip white metal parts and models in. The cleaner last for years, i just pour it through a strainer once in awhile to get the old paint out. 
Terry


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Terry, 

I can see where a vat would be the ultimate, especially where you want to strip an entire car of everything. Wish I had the room for more hobby related stuff, but as it is now, before I can put something in my garage I have to first take something else out. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for taking the time to post, TJ. I wasn't sure what to use, and couldn't remember what was suggested here. 

Take care, 
Matt


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

> Thanks for taking the time to post, 

My pleasure, I've gotten so much from MLS that I really like it when I can share something and hope it helps someone else. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, I'll look for it at Walmart. Jerry


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## Guest (Sep 5, 2008)

one never sees the obvious... 
how often have i seen wife or daughters with chemical-wet cotton on finger or foot nails to clean up old warpaint.... 
but i never made the connections to put it to civil use too. 
thanks, tj-lee.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

What section of Walmart has this Super Clean stuff?


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

Automotive, it's made by castrol. It comes in a purple or white bottle. There is another product called Coastal Power Clean, same stuff.


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

I used Castrol Super Clean back in 1996 after it first came out. except I used it to clean an engine block. Sucked it straight out the bottle with a spry gun for my compressor and it not omly took the grease off the thengine, It took the paint and primer off to the bare metla. After experianceing this first hand, I would never have thought to use it to take paint off a plastic train car. 
I do have one question tho, did you use it full stregnth or did you dilute it ? 

Cliff


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff, 

> do have one question tho, did you use it full stregnth or did you dilute it ? 

I use it full strenght out of the bottle. I sprayed it into a shot glass and used a eyedropper to wet the cotton that I placed over the (what I think are) decals making up the Xmas decorations on the Bachmann cars. The garlands, the wreaths, and the dreaded snow frosting on the windows. Also allowed me to take off selected areas of lettering so I was able to remove references to the North Pole and the North Star Express lettering. 

This stuff is very strong and I only would leave it on for about 10 minutes which dissolved the painted decorations but did not seem to touch the underlying paint. 

But as noted by Terry, you can use this stuff to take the paint off all the way down to the plastic by prolonged soaking. Terry has a vat of this stuff (also full strength I believe) and can soak an entire car as prep for repainting. 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Finished removing all the Xmas decals and paint from the passenger, combo, and the "North Star Express" lettering from the tender. 










Of course, now the tender begs for come new lettering. I think decals are probably the way to go as I don't think I have a steady enough hand to hand letter something like that. Have to give it some thought. 










Certainly gives the train a very different look, and as I was running it today in 98+ degree weather it did not look so out of place. 



















The tender has the two rows of raised "rivets" so maybe smaller lettering above and below the rows? I left some of the gold piping around the sides of the tender, but removed same from below the windows and along the bottom of the cars. 










Best, 
TJ


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

TJ, I had Stan Cederleaf in Arizona make my decals for me. Got a good price and they look good. He also includes instructions. The lettering on the tender normaly goes in between the rivests. Thtat way you can have a larger size font in there that is easy to read and draws attention to it. By the way, Great Job!!!!! They look good.  
Cliff


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff, 
> The lettering on the tender normaly goes in between the rivests. 

Hmmm. The two rows of rivets on this particular tender series are only about a 1/4 inch apart and run right down the center. There is over twice as much room above and below the rivets so I'm not following the part about larger font between the rivets? 










In this closeup you can see the rivets better and how the North Star Express lettering was put on right on top of the rivets. Does anybody know how Bachmann decorates cars? The lettering on the tender seems just be painted on in gold over the green background. The snow-frost on the car windows also seem to just be paint, but the Xmas wreaths and garlands seemed to almost look like decals although they seemed to dissolve and come off like paint. Just wondering. 

I'll have to get in touch with Stan and see about getting some new lettering. 

Best, 
TJ


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

TJ, 
My humble appolagies. I am wrong. It has been a while since I have looked at my Annie and HONESTLY forgot how it is lettered. I did put the decals on over the rivests. It seems that Bachman used gold paint for the Name on the cars and the Engine and tender. As for the snow, it looks like paint to me also. They must be doing it somewhere in the assebly process of putting it together. I took my cars apart and it looked like the wreth dececal was molded into the paint. I am sorry for the confusion. 
Cliff


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff, 

> It has been a while since I have looked at my Annie and HONESTLY forgot how it is lettered. 

No problem at all, my friend. I'm just thrilled I was able to easily get the snow off the windows without damaging the paint. My first attemp was with nail polish remover (on the caboose) and that did not turn out well . 

Did the decals over the rivets present any difficulties in application? Did it look okay? Any pictures of the final result available? 

Best, 
TJ


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Friends, 
This thread sure has me thinking about some GREEN D&RGW Passenger cars I have been wanting. I could get the Bachmann or LGB versions and remove the lettering. Sounds simple enough. I went to Walmart. Only had the gallon size 'Super Clean' in concentrate form. Anyone tried this and if so, how much do I water it down. I do only want to remove lettering NOT ALL PAINT!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I got a gallon of it, pretty cheap! Had some paint problems on a gun truck model. Krylon primer does not seem to be compatible with Krylon paint. Took it off pretty good,, but had to soak some of it for hours. Did not harm the plastic at all and I had some real thin pieces. Tried it on a MDC boxcar, it would not hardly do a thing to it! Sandpaper here I come! Jerry


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

TJ, 
I've been using Stan's decals for years, and they work GREAT! I've never had a problem with installations. He gives full instructions with each order. Follow them, and you'll have no problem. I do however use "decal setting solution" when I'm going on woodgrain or over rivets. I just take my time, coat it with the solution, and the decals dry completely around the rivets or into the woodgrain. 

Good luck!


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Steamnutt, 

> decals dry completely around the rivets 

When you say "around the rivets" how does that work exactly? The rivet rows seem so close together that I would think the decal would tent on each one and look odd if you just go over the top of them. Of course, you have to keep in mind I've never applied a decal in my life that I can remember. 

Best, 
TJ


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Posted By tj-lee on 09/11/2008 1:12 PM
Steamnutt, 
> decals dry completely around the rivets 
When you say "around the rivets" how does that work exactly? The rivet rows seem so close together that I would think the decal would tent on each one and look odd if you just go over the top of them. Of course, you have to keep in mind I've never applied a decal in my life that I can remember. 
Best, 
TJ 


TJ, 
Decal setting solution will disolve the decal film, and allow the decal to settle around vatious details like rivets. If you apply the decal to a gloss surface, the setting solution will also cause the film to almost completely disapear, making the decal look painted on. Without it, the decal will tend to "tent" around tings like rivets, and bridge gaps on the body (a common issue on diesel models). 

Also, if any air gets trapped behind the decal, it will cause an unsightly bubble. Prick it with a needle or sharp knofe, and apply setting solution to make everything settle down properly.


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

TJ, 
It's exactly what Kenneth said. When I apply a decal, I follow Stan's directions. I add some water to the area to get lettered before laying down the decal, then once I have the decal where I want it, I then coat it with the decal set. I actully then reapply it when it's no longer visible. 
I did a kitbash on a tender making it shorter, but still ALOT of rivets. I added one of Stan's decals, applied the decal set, and after all was dry, you can see all the rivets, and no tenting. 
It does the same thing when you do woodgrains. I added decals to a molded plastic woodgrain boxcar, same technique and you can see all the details in the woodgrain. I have on occasion after applying several coats of setting solution, pressed straight down on the rivet area with a damp paper towel when it seems like it's not pulling down as nice as I'd like. 
Of course, you have to be very careful with the decals while they are still wet, they will move. 

Good luck


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Friends, 
Anyone tried the 'SUPER CLEAN' on LGB or Aristo cars? Anyone tried the concentrated form of 'SUPER CLEAN'? I bought a large sized jug of the stuff and was just curious before I put it to the test. Thought I might learn a few things from you guys! (experience is great!)


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Friends, 
I just put the Super Clean on an Aristo Classic Line caboose. Took the herald right off after 15 minute soak time and some elbow grease applied after the 15 minute soak time. Waiting for it to completely dry from clean up before applying the gloss coat for the decal. Have not tried LGB car yet. I used the concentrate at full strength (after testing on the bottom of the car for potential pain damage).


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

Ted, it is all concentrate, spray bottle and gallon jug just use it straight. It worked on a few of my LGB cars but not all of them. Also, alot of LGB equipment is molded in color so you can't do a total restrip.


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Paintjockey, 
Did not realize the small spry bottle was concentrate, too. I'm changing the herald on the Aristo caboose to match the Flying Grande on the C-16. I also want to do a passenger set in green for the D&RGW. May get the White Pass, C&S, or Southern RR LGB ones or similar Bachmann. Will just remove the lettering, not strip the whole car. Thanks for the reply and info!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

TJ..... There is alternative solution to the rivet thing on the tender. I've used a chisel blade in an Exacto handle and chiseled the rivet off flush with the tender surface. But only under the area where the decals would be applied. You may need to repaint the tender, but I usually do that anyway. 

Just a thought to solve some struggles..


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan, 

Never thought about removing the rivets... hmmm. Still trying to decide what I'd want on the tender and what color the lettering should be before contacting you to see about getting decals. 

It has been discussed in this thread that others have used your decals and layed them on right over the rivets with good results. What are your thougths on that? 

Best, 
TJ


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## Steamnutt (Apr 12, 2008)

HI TJ, 
I'm actually doing a tender right now on the dining room table (the work bench has two other cars on it!), and I'm using Stan's decals. I go right over the rivets. Once the decal is in place, I apply SOLVASET full strength (at least with Stan's decal material). I did one side last night before going to bed, and I'm doing the other side right now. I apply several coats to really soften up the material, and after an hour or so, if there is any "tenting" of the decal, I just push straight down with a moist paper towel around the rivets, then give it a last coat and walk away. 
This morning it's perfect, it looks like someone painted the lettering right over the rivets. If I can get some digital pics, I'll try and post them


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Friends, 
I posted a few photos of my Aristo Classic Line Caboose relettered over on the Aristo forum. Take a look! Thanks to all of you for the ideas and suggestions! I used Stan's decals, by the way.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

This sounds good. I do a lot of lettering and removing of such also. Well have to try. Thanks for the tip. Later RJD


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

TJ I tried the super clean on a USA's wood sided caboose. The cotton keeps the solvent moist, and that seems to be the ticket. Thanks for your incite. Sean


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Never thought about removing the rivets


I can suggest that removing that center row of rivets improves the look of any B'mann ten-wheeler. They are far too large and numerous. Here's a photo of mine, next to an Accucraft 1:20.3 (Fn3) C-16 tender, which has scale rivets.


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## Ted Yarbrough (Jan 2, 2008)

Friends,
Anyone tried this product on an LGB car?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks TJ. 

My next project will require removing the lettering from some Bachmann cars, this stuff looks like just the ticket.. 

Great tip!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

It works good on Aristo cars. I took some strips of paper towel and soaked them in it, then let it set on there for awhile, took most off, finished up with a wipe of denatured alcohol.


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## ohioriverrailway (Jan 2, 2008)

If that stuff works that good then somebody will probably get the idea to ban it!


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Then I better buy a case of the gallon jugs pretty soon.


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