# Lighting a DC USAT caboose using DCC



## Cushtime2 (Jan 29, 2014)

Hi All,

I was wondering what the best? quickest? easiest? or cheapest way would be to convert a USAT caboose currently wired with incandescent bulbs for track DC power to track DCC power. I would more than likely be replacing the bulbs with leds. The caboose has a board wired to the track pickups. Would getting a cheap decoder be the answer? And if so which one?

Thank You,
John


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Hi John-

I covered this topic in the November 2014 issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist http://mrhpub.com/2014-11-nov/land/#56

If you want sound in your caboose you could use the Soundtraxx Soundcar decoder. The Soundcar decoder takes care of sound and lighting. I use the Soundtraxx Currentkeeper with the decoder incase I run into dirty track spots.

Hope this helps


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, what a nice article!

Comments:



for DCC, your track voltage will be higher, be sure to recalculate the resistors.
You might want to dump the carbon brush pickups for ball bearing ones.
The body mount coupler method does block the grating, it's possible to make a mount that leaves the platform grill unobstructed by a spacer glued up to it:








See Ted Doskaris' article on installing Kadee body mounts:


http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=556&Itemid=675


Again, a beautiful job super detailing that caboose!


Greg


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## Cushtime2 (Jan 29, 2014)

Thanks Guys,

Eric I bookmarked your link, I'm excited to have that for a winter project. Greg thanks for the additional info. I have all USAT loco's and cars still with the hook and loop couplers except for a tanker which I haven't been able to use yet. I need to do some more figuring as to just install the couplers supplied withe cars or go to Kaydee.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

When using LEDS, be sure to install a capacitor fo at least 35 WVDC (Working Volts DC) for making sure there is no flicker. The bigger the capacitor the more time for lightsa to be on.

470uf at a minimum for me. 25 volts could work, but anything on the track with a coil (read motor/s on DC) can create a back emf and some power packs with pwc can output more than 25 volts (some as high as 38 volts!!)


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks Greg!
Reading your comment, who makes the ball bearing pick ups?

John, have fun this winter. Post pictures of your work


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, LGB, Train-Li, Accucraft/AML, and old stock Aristo-Craft, and perhaps a few others.

The more you pay, the better they are. If you run them on all 4 axles, like I do, the cheaper ones will do. I have stocked up on the old Aristo and got some deals on the AML, right now, if the AML is not in stock, try the Train-Li, even better than the LGB.

I hate flicker (yes I know what a capacitor is ha ha), so I do all 4 axles with the resulting 8 wheel pickup.

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

When using the trainli and LGB ball bearing sets, use the connector pins as soldering the leads will distort the plastic. Experienced solderers will know how to keep the leads cool while soldering, novices should use caution.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What he said!!!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Note that there are light boards with DCC control available. They can even run a servo (think uncoupling on the caboose) I have used a Massoth one and it has control of its own lights plus several function outputs for controlling other things, possibly smoke stack and/or couplers.


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