# Help Planning Layout



## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

Have tried using RR-Track and also just laying track out on the ground but very hard to come up with anything interesting. I have included my RR-Track grid with an attempted line but never can get it to match up. I want to use purchased, standard track, mostly LGB, that I have a lot of but will purchase whatever I need. The reason for this is I want to use the Split Jaw PVC pre-formed roadbed so railbending presented a problem here. I can never get my loops to close using standard curves. My only landscape requirements are the area which is mapped out, a "river bed" in blue that is a wash 6" lower that surrounding area that drains to marsh, and a 2 1/2' Oak tree signified by the "bush" on the right. My entrance to the area is from a retaining wall in the bottom right corner which ends there and is roughly set a 45 degree angle to the proposed area. Any ideas or help? (Hope image is attached!)


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

That is a lot of reverse loops. I assume you are using DCC or battery. Is there a fourth reverse loop off the bottom of the diagram to turn the train around?

Chuck


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

The first thing I see is if you are running track power you will have to address the issue of reverse loops. If battery not a problem.
As to your track plan, what is on paper does not necessarily mean it won't work once on the ground. Track does have some play.
I would skip the Splitjaw PVC and go with a PVC ladder system or concrete roadbed, and purchase a dual track bender. Best purchase I have made for laying track.
Although quite a long thread it has some good info.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-t...oadbed/25868-beginner-s-site-southern-az.html
Take pictures as you go.
Steve


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

Battery. This South End is connected to a 120' straight section that runs along the top of the wall. It's only 8" wide and the chairman of the board said I could not add a 12' topper to the wall to run parallel tracks each direction. Only solution is reversing loops at each end of the wall.


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

Battery, see above response about lower right entrance to this section of railway. I don't have to have my switch there but easy and sturdy on top end of the wall.


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

The reason I choosing the preformed PVC roadbed is: 1. Can easily and quickly change routing. 2. Wife recognizes that it is easily removed so if I lose interest like I do with some hobbies, it wouldn't take very long to pull out the PVC.
But, PVC ladder plus a railbender would make all this tedious planning moot! May swap as you suggest but leaning to the Split Jaw product.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

I recently reached a point where I'm mostly done putting down my track. My plan had some similar issues (where things didn't line up precisely) but it mostly worked out as I layed and adjusted the track. 

If those are 1' squares on your grid, then I would think that the section in the blue riverbed polygon could be worked out with the play that's in long sections of sectional track. I'm not sure how using the PVC road bed would change that, but as others mentioned PVC risers or concrete are other options. And if this unconnected run is on a bridge, as I assume, then you wouldn't be using the roadbed anyway.

The other unconnected section, near the middle, might be trickier. Because the crossover and switch are so close to each other, it doesn't look to me like you could find enough "wiggle room" to get those ends together. An option for solving that is flex track. Even if you're sold on the Split-jaw roadbed, you could always just have that one flex-tracked section ballasted in the more traditional manner.

Do be aware that to join those two you're going to be creating an s-curve. You will want to minimize that curve and if possible allow for straight sections between the curves to reduce chances of derailments.


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

Thanks. Do be aware that with the roadbed, you connect it all up on the ground prior to placing your pvc pipes. After the pipes are all in thru the roadbed, you slide it up the pvc posts until level or at desired grade. When you come to a bridge/trestle area, you unscrew the set screw and push that section of the roadbed down into the ground, cover it, and place your bridge above. As a result, all pvc pipes remain supported together. Trestle sits on the roadbed and can be screwed/glued to it. If you have it all up but you realize grade not steep enough or too steep for tunnel or bridge, then you just loosen the leveling set screws and raise or lower the roadbed until you are happy. If you want to add a turnout later, you remove the section where you want the switch, replace it with the pvc turnout piece, slide it over the pipe already there and tighten the set screw when level. BUT, that is all on paper since I (nor Jerry who makes it) have personally never done.


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

Started this response but it got lost. Wish there was an easier ladder system that could easily be adjusted like the Split Jaw roadbed. Sorta like Dirk's where your central PVC post could be used to attach twin 1/2" PVC pipe "rails" straddling it but who's height could be raised or lowered easily when everything was attached. After leveling, the top of the pipe could be removed and the track screwed to the twin PVC rails.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Or cut off level with the runners. In case frost heave happens later, with the pipes in place it would be fairly easy to bring the tracks back to level. Would the Assoc allow you to put lag bolts and brackets into the wall below eye level?


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

She probably wouldn't worry as long as it looks like the yard ends with grass then marsh/water like infinity pool. Good thought but I need to see how that works with the 5 "up" outdoor tree lights. Just have to drive the support into concrete block somehow. The wall is concrete block topped with sideways laying brick. Have to find some type of bracket that could hold something that held the track. Interesting thought, thanks! This hobby always seems to make you problem-solve something new - I guess that's why it can be so addicting...i.e. one amazing dude, Dirk.


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

*Re-Try to Get Help With Planning*

Let me resubmit my drawing of my area for suggests with just the start and the only 2 obstacles: the oak tree in middle left and the river/pond low wash area in lower center. I have already built two mounds of dirt with concrete bases on the "river's" edge to prevent erosion and direct the water between them. I have the track aimed and running across this loosely until I can decide on a bridge. Other than that, I just start out with an 1800 LGB L turnout as the start of my loop (it sits on the south end of my 120' mostly straight retaining wall). I had planned on using my 36 LGB 18000 R5 curves as much as possible, plus some 10' diameter Aristo craft curves as tightest curve, if possible. I have tons of straight and some tighter LGB curves. The whole area has a 2% grade top to bottom and 1.5% from left to right (water flows down from the house 20' above top right corner) around tree, diagonally down to the bridge area in the lower center. I wanted things of crossing tracks with a tunnel/bridge, something better than just a loop. Some type of elevated roadbed will be used, like ladder so I can avoid trying to stabilize the soggy, soft dirt of my side yard. So, I have included a RR-Track plan with only the start and the two obstacles shown. I understand that I will end up having to railbend some to get it to connect but I would like to keep that to a minimum and use my pre-formed track and maybe will be set up for rail yards and train "work" while this south will be mainly for traveling through the hills. Thanks for any suggestions to make this area interesting!
View attachment South Section Complex Try.bmp


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## Jcutter (Dec 16, 2015)

*Re-Try to Get Help With Planning*

Let me resubmit my drawing of my area for suggests with just the start and the only 2 obstacles: the oak tree in middle left and the river/pond low wash area in lower center. I have already built two mounds of dirt with concrete bases on the "river's" edge to prevent erosion and direct the water between them. I have the track aimed and running across this loosely until I can decide on a bridge. Other than that, I just start out with an 1800 LGB L turnout as the start of my loop (it sits on the south end of my 120' mostly straight retaining wall). I had planned on using my 36 LGB 18000 R5 curves as much as possible, plus some 10' diameter Aristo craft curves as tightest curve, if possible. I have tons of straight and some tighter LGB curves. The whole area has a 2% grade top to bottom and 1.5% from left to right (water flows down from the house 20' above top right corner) around tree, diagonally down to the bridge area in the lower center. I wanted things likecrossing tracks with a tunnel/bridge, something better than just a loop. Some type of elevated roadbed will be used, like ladder so I can avoid trying to stabilize the soggy, soft dirt of my side yard. So, I have included a RR-Track plan with only the start and the two obstacles shown. I understand that I will end up having to railbend some to get it to connect but I would like to keep that to a minimum and use my pre-formed track and maybe the Split Jaw roadbed. The north loop will be set up for rail yards and train "work" while this south will be mainly for traveling through the hills. Thanks for any suggestions to make this area interesting!
View attachment 28626


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