# Modified William 2-6-2 tanker in gauge one



## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Hi I am building a 2-6-2 tanker locomotive in gauge one.Here's some of the progress.


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Marinus, it's looking great! Please keep us updated.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

That's some real progress. I like the prototype too. How will you be firing it? It almost looked like a full wet side firebox. Thanks very much for sharing! keep posting your progress.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Wonderful to see another build being presented in the live steam forum. Did you boiler test yet?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome! I'm looking forward to watching your progress. 

Larry


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you all for your kind comments. It will be coal fired and I am still waiting for the water gauge so it hasn't been boiler yet. 
Next week my 3/4" pressure gauge from Blackgates Engineering will arrive, can't wait.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi Marinus, 
Looking good. 
I am not sure what the "Modified William" refers to. 
I see that there are some plans in one photo, but wondering where they come from. 
It doesn't look British, so is it from somewhere else in the world. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

The original plans for a "William" are in 3 1/2" gauge, and it was desinged by Martin Evans. 
All that's different is the cab, chimney,dome and the engine. 
Here's a link to a website of a Japanese who built a modified "William" in 3 1/2"gauge http://ww3.tiki.ne.jp/~hwata/index_e.html


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 08 Jan 2013 08:46 AM 
{snip...}[/i] I see that there are some plans in one photo, but wondering where they come from. 
It doesn't look British, so is it from somewhere else in the world. {snip...}[/i] David

Maybe Marinus' introductory post below will be of some help.









New Members Forum/Topic: Hi, from South Africa[/b]


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Sorry, forgot to include where I got the plans, I didn't buy any plans just printed it to see how the original looked and I cannot see a thing that has been written on it, but that doen't matter at all because I am building a much smaler loco. Here's the site where I saw the plans http://shop.ajreeves.com/william-23-c.asp


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Hi everyone







I am busy drilling the port holes in the cylinder and I am strugling to drill holes from the piston cylinder to the valve cylinder in a normal press drill with a 2mm drilling bit with a vise and just can't get enough comfidence to try again . Any tips, please.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

I'm guessing you are trying to start drilling where I see the material removed from the top of the cylinder on an angle into the block to eventually inter sect the valve cylinder? Is the drill wanting to wander off course? 

You should use a spot drill or a center Drill to start the hole. This will make a divot that the normal drill bit will settle into and the cut straight from there. A spot drill is very rigid and inflexible and wont wander off your center when starting to cut. They are available in many diameters, and don't come cheap. One should last a life time though. I just bought a 1/4" diameter by 2" long solid carbide one for $30 USD. You want them to be short since you are only going to start a hole with it and then switch to a regular drill to finish the hole. If spot drills were longer they would have more tendency to wander the longer they got.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

When I have done piston valve engines...long ago and not the best runners in my case...I made the valve section separate from the piston section and bolted them together. I drilled up from the cylinder as you have done into a groove cut in the mating surface between the valve block and cylinder block. made locating the holes for the valve easier and more precise. 

Mind you this was before I had a complete shop and thus the bore for the piston valve was imperfect allowing a certain amount of leakage. I now perfer "D" or slide valves as they are self sealing and do not require precision fits.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

If you cut a bar of metal into a triangle, and clamp that to your cylinder block, it will provide a surface to approach square with the drill.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

I do this usually in the milling machine. First I clamp the cylinder at the correct angle and test it by moving the drill bit up/down in front and close to the cylinder. Next I replace the drill bit with a mill bit and mill a small flat where the hole is about to start. I then center drill and finally drill through. I have found that even a center drill wanders slightly if there is no flat. 

Regards


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Finally I've drilled the all the port holes and with breaking four 2mm drills that I have used to drill the port hole. I wanted it to be a bit square but now it is just one round hole. I had to rotate the hole stand 33 degrees and than I had to turn the cylinder too to drill straight, it worked with one side but the other one a bit of a mess.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Here's some more pics. Silver solderd 3mm copper plate to the back of the cylinder as for it was a bit too small.

etched 2mm brass sheet with a number 1 on it without using pcb transfer paper, used parmenent marker so you can see the nasty job but all of it will be clearded after painting the etched part red.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Made a bit of progress lately. 
Here's the valve liner. 
 
 
The piston, made from stainless with an o-ring. 
 
Superheater tubes brazed in place. 
 
The throttle handle. 
 
My newly etched number plate.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

impressive work Marinus. 

I take it that the valve liner presses into the cylinder/valve block. that should make the complicated porting all work more easily, I wasn't sure how you would handle that. Just hadn't occurred to me to make a liner. I have only done slide valves.


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## pickleford75 (May 3, 2012)

your doing a great job.... you should be proud of yourself


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you Eric and pickleford75 for the comments. 
And yes the valve liner presses into the cylinder and than it will be secured by Loctite 272 or 510 thier both high heat ressistance. 
If I make a piston valve with o-rings won't the porting holes tear the o-ring apart? 
And now I have to find 3mm, 4mm and 6mm stainless, 3mm for the piston valve rod, 4mm for the piston rod and 6mm for the piston valve! 
I'm planning on making/casting alu wheels and putting a stainless tyre on it or a mild steel tyre.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Great work Marius. You are really taking time to add so many features I'm sure this will be a great runner. Are you using copper tube for the super heating tubing? I am by no means an authority on the subject but most SH tubes I've seen have been from stainless since they can get quite hot to the point where copper or brass may fail. The nice thing about you arangement is that it looks like the could easily be removed and reworked if need be. Keep up the stellar work!


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I've had my doubt about the super heater, but where can I get 3mm stainlesss tube?


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

K&S engineering who makes brass tubing and rod for hobbiests also makes stainless tubing. it comes 12" long 1/8", I assume that metric dimensioned tubing should be available if you are located in a metric oriented country.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

The problem is that I'm in South Africa and that the postage takes long, waiting 18 working days for my pressure gauge and Royal Mail's dilivery aim is 5-7 working days.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I finally created the valve gear on my computer


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Sorry, here's the pic


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I haven't been up to much the past month but made an axle and one axlebox








The one axlebox











 
Made the axle out of a stainless steel rod and drilled pin holes at the ends. 
 
Some shots of the boiler 
 
 
 
Close ups of the dome and stack/chimney


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## pickleford75 (May 3, 2012)

looking good so far.... keep it up


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

These parts look very good! Are the dome and smokestack made from scratch or castings? What method did you use to make the rounded saddle portion?


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you picleford75 and Eric. 
Eric, the dome and chimney were made from casted alu ignots that I've cast and I turned it to shape and then filing the rounded saddle to fit to the boiler. ( If you look closely you can see the defects on the dome)


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Well done! I like seeing things done "old school." A file is a very powerful weapon for shaping metal in the hands of a skilled worker.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Hi Marinus 
This is the first I have seen of this project. The sorting is finally fixed on the forum. 
Things are looking good. 
I agree that you should try to get some SS for the superheater. My superheaters get red hot and a coal fire is the hottest. 
Stainless is so strong it can be easily bent in a bender without collapsing so for me it is the only choice 
If you can't find the K&S, McMaster Carr has all of that but I don't know if they can ship to South Africa. Did you Google metal supply in SA? 
On the piston valve, I have tried o-rings before and found that the hole cuts them. The hole needs to have a sharp edge for correct timing and I haven't found anything other than a good metal to metal close tolerance fit using SS piston and bronze or brass sleeve.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you Bill, 
I,ve found a place in South Africa that has SS tube and has sent them an email, so will have to wait, and if it's cheap enough I will have to go and get it direct at the place , because the main post office is on strike. 
As for the piston valve, if there's a bit of a leak will something go wrong?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

You will probably have plenty of steam since it is coal fired so a small leak will not be a problem. 
If you can get some precision ground SS and just cut the grooves in it, you should be able to get a pretty geed seal. Use a reamer on your sleeve and if the fit is too tight, you can lap it with brass or metal polish. 
When you cut the grooves in the stainless, there will probably be a raised portion at the edge which will need to be cleaned up with a file or stone.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

I had precision ground steel that at first didn't rust but after I've cut the grooves it started to rust (maybe a anti rust coat) 
What do you usualy use for the wheel axles? 
Do you know if it will be problem whith the axles if there's play on the axleboxes? 

Can't wait till tomorrow, because then my dad will cast my wheels and then the axles will maybe be finished ( Made two pairs of axles, just have to make one pair more!)


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have used drill rod for axles which comes with a nice polish and hasn't rusted yet. 

If you mean back and forth play, it is not good as it would be similar to a rod knock in a car. A little is ok but you don't want the axle or the drive rods hammering. 
Sometimes a little play is needed if the axle hole spacing is off from the side rod spacing. I believe from your prior postings that you don't have a mill so getting that exactly right may be a problem. 
The other thing that may become a problem is quartering the wheels. You need a quartering jig for this. 
I would set up the wheels and side rods and then see if you need to file the axle box cutouts. Once everything id true, you can make shims to get the axle boxes to a slip fit and JB or soft solder them in.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Thank you for the tips Bill. My dad knows a guy at Exarro mine that works with the CNC mills. Just wish my dad an work with the mills there again (He was a master fitter and turner and then they moved him to an office) 
The quartering jig can be made from steel and I can cut it with the plasma cutter.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

The CNC should be a great help 
You can give him all of your Dockstader dimensions. 
Would you like me to check them out? 
I think you can attach the file here and I can save it and open it up. or you can send a private message.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Posted By bille1906 on 01 Mar 2013 10:14 AM 
The CNC should be a great help 
You can give him all of your Dockstader dimensions. 
Would you like me to check them out? 
I think you can attach the file here and I can save it and open it up. or you can send a private message. 
I just have to recreate the valve gear on the computer because I saved it in the wrong format and now it doesn't want to open it.
And I don't think I should ask them to do it on the CNC mill, the price is a bit high. I will have to ask around for someone thats a bit cheaper.
What if me and my dad could make mill attachtment for the lathe  I will send the file later by private message.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Hi all, didn't get much done lately. 
 
The axleboxes, look closely and you will see something fishy at the last axlebox  
 
The sight glass fitting finished. The brass nuts were made from 12mm brass round bar and drawn/shaped on the lathe  I've brazed it together with copper to copper instead of silver solder because the silver solder's flowing temp. is higher. 
Just have to wait for my free 4mm sight glass that a kind sir is sending me for free (He's not a crook, I think  ) 
 
The sight glass fitting to the boiler. 
 
One of the bushes to go on boiler. 
 
Milled the wall away between port and cylinder cover with a dremel bit in the press drill  
That's all folks


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mk on 09 Mar 2013 10:38 AM 
Hi all, didn't get much done lately. 
 
The axleboxes, look closely and you will see something fishy at the last axlebox  



I see nothing piscine about the axle boxes, except that the photo itself has me confused... the axle and boxes on the left appear smaller than the set on the right and that is accounted for by asssuming perspective... but the one in the middle seems smaller still and perspective is out of whack for that.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

The last one has been put there by my computer  and the one on the left is bit smaller in the midlle due to the axle pump.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Just needed to add some pics

The backhead


Close ups of the engine. 
The hole loco was put together with insulation tape (the blue stuff!!)


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

Today I've ( and my dad) cast one wheel and made a mild steel tire  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The regulator that's going to fit in the boiler.


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## Mk (Jan 7, 2013)

This project will be on old for a few months







Hope to still work on it though. Thank you all for the support so far


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