# Electric Brad Nailer Suitable for LS RR?



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

While getting ready to build my switch, I found my old Campbell Hausfield small compressor has a cracked hose connection port, which causes a leak. Guess what the only part in the replacement manual they don't stock? While I haven't inspected it with great attention, I think it is integral with the air pressure cutoff switch, which nobody sells, that I can find. (I have an Asian compressor I picked up for a few bucks, but nowhere can I buy an air-over-electric cutoff switch for under ~ $100. Got any sources on those by chance?)

Sooo... the question for the day is, for the kind of building we do on track, small houses, model RR projects in general, who sells a decent electric nailer? I prefer cheap, actually.







But serviceable, like most of the HF stuff I get. (Emphasis on 'most').

Les


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Nailer; 
Did you look at Harbor Frieght? 
I seem to remember that I had to make up my mind...air or 'lectricity...I chose air. 

A pin nailer will suit your needs. 


John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

Uh, according to a thread a few inches down on this very same board, a 'pin' doesn't have a head or serrations. Call me old fashioned, but I sorta like nails with heads.

I have the HF brad nailer/tacker, wind driven, but as I said, an electric one would make me happier.

Les


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Les: Are you talking about hand laid track? If so, I don't think any powered nailer has the type of head needed to hold the rail.

The 23 gauge pinner does not have heads in any way, nor serrations. 18 gauge had small heads and some serration. If regular 18 gauge nails from an air gun fit the electrics, I think it would be just fine. The kind of wood we use is pine, bass, poplar and other soft stuff. 


Bob


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Les, 

I had to buy a new switch for CH compressor a couple of years ado. I will look and see if I still have the old switch ( I don't throw things away ). Also, I got the new switch from a company here in KC that services CH compressors. I will drive by there today and get ther name and give you thier contact info. I don't recall thier name off hand, but I do know where the place is.. 

Cliff


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob,

Yes, primarily hand laid track, though other structures as well. What got me started was, I need to put a base of furring strips around the 'switch module', which will be of luan. I was intending to glue the wood and shoot a few nails when I found my old C/H compressor had a problem. In the interests of simplicity, I thought I'd see what sort of light-duty electric tackers--I have electric staplers--and that's what got me thinking. Since I'm building strap rail, it might not be possible to use a 'brad shooter' of any kind, I might have to do the pliers, punch and tackhammer bit.

While this particular switch is more of a study model than anything, I want to build my track off board, in sections, and affix them to the benchwork.

But. My daughter is moving back in with us, so the 'benchwork' has slid into the indefinable future. That's not so critical (though frustrating) because I have a lot of building to do on motive power, rolling stock, buildings, etc. I think a circle of track ala Vic's will work for the present. Since I have no experience modeling, I need to do a lot of trial and error type work.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Cliff,

Many thanks for the offer. The problem is, I find after getting the compressor up where I can really see it is not the switch, but the output port/safety valve/air cutoff portion. That's where it has cracked. Today's problem is to take apart that piece and see if I can salvage out the pop-off valve. If I can, I think a little new plumbing will fix the problem.

Having said that, I'd still like the electric switch for the little asian compressor, and I am happy to pay you for it. The only ones I can find around here start at just under a hundred dollars, and the guys act like they're selling nuclear technology. I gave five bucks for the complete compressor, never dreaming a simple pneumatic-operated switch would be so expensive. (My greatest pleasure is to find something broken and repair it.) And much worse, the two places I did contact a couple of years ago for the asian one wanted the model #, part #, and when I explained I just wanted a generic cutoff switch set at 90 psi, both told me they don't sell those without a proper number. One guy warned me I would blow myself up. Sigh. Both of them were amazingly disinterested when I told them I was trying to fix an off-shore compressor.

I get really exasperated, trying to buy replacement parts. For example, I put my daughter onto locating and pricing a ballast transformer for a utility two-tube, 48" florescent light, ceiling hang type. From one place, I'm still waiting the reply on the price. ("We'll call you back in a few minutes.") From Home Despot, my daughter got a real runaround: first she looked up online the HD stock #, then she called the local Home Destroyer and waited for nearly 20 minutes on the phone for them to see if they had the part on hand, using _their own_ part number! (They didn't.)

Oh well.

Les


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By Les on 28 Oct 2009 01:43 PM 
John,

Uh, according to a thread a few inches down on this very same board, a 'pin' doesn't have a head or serrations. Call me old fashioned, but I sorta like nails with heads.

I have the HF brad nailer/tacker, wind driven, but as I said, an electric one would make me happier.

Les
Ever try to pull one? They are plenty 'sticky'! Two driven at a slight angle to each other hold fine. The HF pins appear to have a plastic coating that helps. I used the pins on my trestles and arched bridge, after a year outside not one pin is showing. From freezing to 'near' boiling..117 degrees and nothing has loosened, besides the head only holds on one side anyway. Over the years I've hammered many a headed nail back in, whereas the pins are recessed a tad and the wood prevents then from backing out as easily. Plus all joints are Tite-bond III glued and pinned. I use the pins to hold while the glue sets, speeds up assembly.

I can't pull them straight out, usually grab with needle nose pliers and roll the pliers to get 'em out!

A brad is more likely to split your wood as they are much thicker, they have T heads...but not wide enough to spike track.( I know doesn't apply here)

I own both types but favor the pinner for models and the brad nailer for general full size construction work...

I'm pretty sure HF carries 'lectric nailers seeing hows you've got your heart set on one....

I got my small compressor at an Auto parts store on sale around $60, it's a Coleman, which is probably a rebranding.... has a small tank (aprox; 14" x 8") and only takes a couple of minutes to catchup with the brad nailer, never run out with the pinner....

John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

Never even _seen_ a pin nailer. Or if I did, I didn't know what I was looking at. Well, that's a pretty convincing set of facts you wrote down. I may rethink and try the pin nailer. Who sells a decent middle of the road one? What brand is yours?

Oh. What kind of HD solder did you recommend for brass/copper? I may have to do some torch soldering to rebuild that valve assy if the epoxy won't hold.

Les


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Les,
By "cutoff switch", I assume you are talking about the pressure switch which controls the starting and stopping of the motor. Does your compressor have a 1/4"NPT fitting for the switch? If so, you can buy a switch from McMaster-Carr for $27.56 McMaster #4154K612 (I'm guessing your little compressor doesn't have an unloader). You could check Grainger, too, which is probably a better source as they carry a wide array of air compressor equipment.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By Les on 29 Oct 2009 01:09 PM 
John,

Never even _seen_ a pin nailer. Or if I did, I didn't know what I was looking at. Well, that's a pretty convincing set of facts you wrote down. I may rethink and try the pin nailer. Who sells a decent middle of the road one? What brand is yours?

Oh. What kind of HD solder did you recommend for brass/copper? I may have to do some torch soldering to rebuild that valve assy if the epoxy won't hold.

Les

Think of a roofing gun, but smaller, mine loads oh at least 100 pins at a time.

Moderate? Harbor Freight! lol 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...mber=97526









I did find that if I loosened the feed tray slightly it stopped jamming, but remember 23 ga is only .022". Comes with a spare hammer I think...I know the brad nailer does.

It's purdy too! lol

The solder is Stay-Brite, has a liquid flux and is silver bearing,works well with a torch. Not to be confused with much harder silver solder. Think I got it in plumbing, I used it where silver plate would burn off with oxy/acet.

John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Jim,

Many thanks for that pt # from McMaster Carr. Yes the little compressor uses 1/4" fittings. Has a respectable tank, for what it is, maybe 8 or 10" across and 18" long.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

Thanks for the pic and info. I believe when my check drops, I'll have one. Pneumatic, I see. Ah, well.

Stay Brite, huh? I couldn't remember. 

Tomorrow I'm going to groove out the cracks with a dremel--it's cracked far worse on the bottom than the top. I'll put a hose clamp on it to give it some support, but I'll glue it and clamp it in the vise, then prob'ly run an NPT tap down to clean out the threads. I'm debating just gluing the nipple for the pressure regulator in along with it, I bet that'd stop the leaks.

Les


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

I find after getting the compressor up where I can really see it is not the switch, but the output port/safety valve/air cutoff portion. That's where it has cracked. 

Les, 
The switch on mine was bad, but I had to buy the whole unit ( switch, regulator and pop-off valve). I was thinking that you could take my switch off of it and put yours on, because it has all the 1/4 in NPT fittings that you will need on it.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By stumpycc on 30 Oct 2009 06:34 AM 
I find after getting the compressor up where I can really see it is not the switch, but the output port/safety valve/air cutoff portion. That's where it has cracked. 

Les, 
The switch on mine was bad, but I had to buy the whole unit ( switch, regulator and pop-off valve). I was thinking that you could take my switch off of it and put yours on, because it has all the 1/4 in NPT fittings that you will need on it. 




Stumpy,

I'd very definitely be interested. Thanks. PM me if you like.

Les


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Les, 
Sorry I gave false info, I couldda sworn they had an 'lectric one, but I looked and couldn't find one... so yeah it's air powered... 

If you strap it up good and use the glue as gaskets, it could hold... after bottoming out my sports car I found the oil intake in the flattened pan in pieces.. Permatex and brass strips and screws held it together just fine for another 4 years until the (fix it again tony) Fiat, gave up on a different cause.. 

I'd put it all together and glue it up, screwing the nip in might cause stress cracks in the glue...or to seperate from the metal. Whereas the threads might give more overall strength to the glue. I might even run a hacksaw across the threads for teeth. 

John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

Either you've been looking over my shoulder, or you've been around the block, too. It just happens, today I had a good 'un and went down there and got a lot of insight into that cracked piece. I'm gonna take one of those thin Dremel wheels and grind out a groove in both cracks, just like I was fixing to arcweld some cast, except this piece won't be heated. Then I'm gonna dump Gorrila ... Gorilla? ... glue in there and cinch up a hex-head worm clamp with a breaker bar and see what happens. The clamp stays on, after. I won't grind clear to the bottom, I may be dumb but I ain't stupid.









I already tried the cinching up with a breaker, and doggone me, but it looks to seal up like it never cracked. Some little sense is involved because my F.I.L bought that compressor in '76. I know that because I helped him pay for it. Not that he asked me. I had to go through his only daughter, which happened to be my wife. He then went and made a lot of money for an old guy, doing furniture stuff. That compressor don't owe anybody. But that plastic is Old. (I hate to use that word).









I'll cinch 'er up and leave it overnight. I got nothing but good to say about that glue: I fixed the wrist stock on a gun once with it, and tested it across my knee back when that made a difference.









I also have a tap--I forget the thread, but it's a half inch diameter NPT, to clean out the threads happen that glue goes on through into there.

Les


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## stumpycc (Jan 2, 2008)

Les,

Here are a few pictures of the valve assembly off my compressor. It has the regulatoer, and both oreasure guages on it. Let me know if you can use it.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Les, 
Tho' you swear by it, I'd be more likely to use an epoxy to glue 'er up. Apeglue (deftly sidestepping the spelling...) is known to react to moisture...aka humidity. In fact takes a bit of water to set.. All the airline driers I've seen have been external of the valves, so moisture will be present, I'm just not sure how it (glue) will hold up. 

It's a never ending block...always more to learn... lol 

John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Stumpy,

I'm sorry to be so slow replying; my daughter is moving in and things are sort of out of skew, here. But no, that's not the part I need. Thank you for the pics, though.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

I now own one of those pin 23 ga pin nailers, from HF. Got the little sucker for $19.99--just walked in on an unadvertised sale. They only had two lengths of pins, though. Anybody else sell the pins?

Soon's I get the compressor fixed....

Les


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Les on 05 Nov 2009 03:12 PM 
John,

I now own one of those pin 23 ga pin nailers, from HF. Got the little sucker for $19.99--just walked in on an unadvertised sale. They only had two lengths of pins, though. Anybody else sell the pins?

Soon's I get the compressor fixed....

Les

I think they come in only 2 lengths, 1/2 and 3/4. Home Depot has them


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By xo18thfa on 05 Nov 2009 03:25 PM 
Posted By Les on 05 Nov 2009 03:12 PM 
John,

I now own one of those pin 23 ga pin nailers, from HF. Got the little sucker for $19.99--just walked in on an unadvertised sale. They only had two lengths of pins, though. Anybody else sell the pins?

Soon's I get the compressor fixed....

Les

I think they come in only 2 lengths, 1/2 and 3/4. Home Depot has them 
If by "they", you mean HF or HD, perhaps you are correct, but pins come in a lot more lengths than just 1/2" and 3/4". See Grex pins or a well-stocked contractors tool outlet.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By RimfireJim on 05 Nov 2009 04:07 PM 
Posted By xo18thfa on 05 Nov 2009 03:25 PM 
Posted By Les on 05 Nov 2009 03:12 PM 
John,

I now own one of those pin 23 ga pin nailers, from HF. Got the little sucker for $19.99--just walked in on an unadvertised sale. They only had two lengths of pins, though. Anybody else sell the pins?

Soon's I get the compressor fixed....

Les

I think they come in only 2 lengths, 1/2 and 3/4. Home Depot has them 


If by "they", you mean HF or HD, perhaps you are correct, but pins come in a lot more lengths than just 1/2" and 3/4". See Grex pins or a well-stocked contractors tool outlet. 


Jim & XO & anyone else interested,

Here's what it says on the box: "100 pin magazine capacity: 23ga pins. 5 pin length *settings* on magazine: 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" 7/8" and 1" pin lengths."

I haven't opened it yet to fool with it, but I did pick up a box each of the two lengths HF had, and which I disrecollect at the moment. 

Thanks for the link to Grex.









Les


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Les, 
HF has more sizes, as noted on the slide on the pinner. They are color coded to match the pin diameter to the pinner. Maybe the Sale caused a run on the pins, ask when more are coming in stock. I got a box of each when I got my gun. All 5 sizes as I needed to see how they held and if a 1/2" would shoot with the same force as a 1" pin, I envisioned the shorter pins passing through! That hasn't happened. 

I haven't tried other brands. 

John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

John,

There are two HF's in driving distance of me, one down a long, busy interstate into a town full of seriously crazy drivers, the other only half as far away but staffed and ran by .... um ... can we say the 'Rarely Motivated'? or 'Sufferers of the Low Wage Attitude'? Thus, asking 'when or if' something will be in stock only gets the following: 1) Ask question. 2) "Lemme go check'. 3) If you brought your lunch you'll have time to eat it, and maybe supper too.

The other store is staffed by younger people of a different race in the main, on the way up and out. They fall all overthemselves to help, mostly. One cashier let me run my 20% off coupon through her register twice. And it's 14 miles away down ****'s Racetrack (I-70)

I've looked up the link that Jim left, and it's only about 5 miles away, and I believe I'll give 'em a visit this afternoon. The thought crossed my mind that different brands of pins might not work in different products, until I figured that probably most of the 'Brand Names' are made in China anyway.

Anyway, nothing makes my day like buying a new tool. And nothing makes it brighter than getiing said tool 30% off, unexpectedly.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Les on 06 Nov 2009 08:53 AM 

I've looked up the link that Jim left, and it's only about 5 miles away, and I believe I'll give 'em a visit this afternoon. The thought crossed my mind that different brands of pins might not work in different products, until I figured that probably most of the 'Brand Names' are made in China anyway.
I don't think you have to worry about that. The pins should be universal. That is the case for brads, finish nails, and framing nails. 
Anyway, nothing makes my day like buying a new tool.








Amen, brother! Just when I thought I had practically every tool I can possibly justify, I managed to add another one this weekend: a very nice miter saw stand by Dewalt to put under my sliding compound miter saw. I've been working with it on the ground or on my Black & Decker Workmate (which is then unavailable to use for anything else) for YEARS. When I saw an ad in the Lowe's flyer for one made by Skil for $99, I went in to check it out and came home with the Dewalt version for $169, "was $219". (I'm loving these new, lower prices.) Wow, what a difference using the saw now. Totally stable, right height, 16' of stock support. Life is good.


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