# An 0-6-0F Build



## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

I've finally started building my first locomotive. I've had the information for  couple years now but havent really been ready to try it.

The locomotive: 

The locomotive is a H.K. Porter fireless built for the Public Service Electric Company in 1923. 

Fireless locomotives were steam locomotives that did not have a firebox and instead ran off of steam stored in its insulated resivoir. When the steam runs low, it is recharged at a stationary boiler. Fireless and compressed air locomotives were used extensively in mines and other such facilities where a spark could potentially cause a fire. They allowed the owner to move the fire out of the danger area without sacrificing the abilities of a locomotive. This one was built for a coal fired electrical plant where coal dust in the air could potentially cause an explosion. It was never given a road number and held its shop number of 6816.

6816 is now on display at Steamtown in Scranton, PA. I found a picture of it online a while back and wrote to the park service asking for documents that might help me build a model of it and one of the historians sent me copies of everything they have. It was quite extensive and contained parts and operations manuals, purchace orders and other correspondence.

Essential specs.
Gauge: 4ft 8.5 in
Turn Radius: 200ft
Driver Radius: 52 in
Driver configuration: 0-6-0

i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/smckittr/Fireless/fireless.jpg
i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/smckittr/Fireless/fireless4.jpg
The model will be in 1:29th scale.

i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/smckittr/Fireless/6.jpg
i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii75/smckittr/Fireless/100_0349.jpg
And the beginining...




















More to follow.

Suggestions constructive critisism are not only welcome, but requested. 

Thanks,
Scott


----------



## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Cool, I'll be watching this one!


----------



## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Scott

Interesting choice, the 0-6-0F in the topic title really had me going, I knew that I'd seen the F designation before but for the life of me I couldn't remember what it stood for, thanks for including the explanation in your posting. I'll be another watching how things turn out, thanks for taking the time to share.


----------



## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks ,

Heres the chassis after i put in the spacers.I found some 1-72 screws at ace hardware and they turned out to be the perfect size. 

The hard part was making sure it was squared up, but i think its pretty close. Next i'll cut some brass tube for bushings and thats about as far as i can go until i come up with a motor for it.










Thanks,
Scott


----------



## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi 

Hartland sell a motor and gearbox in one unit.


----------



## eddie (Jan 2, 2008)

that is awesome looking forward to more updates


----------



## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

Gotta ask....Where did you get the drivers?

Also, once you get a motor, any thoughts on how you are going to transfer energy from motor to wheels?  That is, gearing, and where to obtain the gears?

Thanks

Bill W


----------



## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks, 

the drivers are from LGB they are part of the DR Loco (#21811); four wheels with short crankshafts and two with long. I'm currently waiting for Mr. Mahon at LGBoA to get some motors and a drive kit in stock that will cover both motor and gearing needs. 

Right now i'm working on the cylinders. 

I've heard a lot about fillers/puttys that people have used to fill gaps between parts or to create smooth curves on their models. What type of putty is this? 

Thanks, 
Scott


----------



## pcentral (Jan 3, 2008)

Hey Scott, 
Looking good! I'm happy to see you doing some scratchbuilding, keep at it you'll love it. 

I use Squadron Green Putty. They also make White Putty but I haven't tried it. You should be able to find it at any of the LHS's. 

Steve


----------



## trainmaster1989 (Jan 4, 2008)

I still havent gotten the motor in so work has been kind of slow. I built the cylinders and worked on spacing them properly. 

















The spacer is a piece of carboard with center lines drawn on it to match the centers on the cylinders. I think the appropriate spacing would be 72mm from center to center. 
Is there some way to derive the spacing other than eyeballing it? 

Steve, 
I do like the challenge of screatchbuilding. 
I'll look into the squadron putty. 


Thanks 
Scott 

BTW i'd be happy to share any of the documents and such that i have on trains.


----------

