# Installing a Revolution in a Bachmann 4-6-0



## dpotp (May 25, 2011)

I guys. I'am new to the form but a long time G scaler. I have a Revolution 57000 I want to install in a Bachmann 4-6-0. Has anyone out there done this and if so got any suggestions?


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

I've done a couple of non-plug and play installations of the Revo. 

Are you track powered or battery powered?

The track powered version goes like this:

Wire the revo non plug and play board so that the power coming in to the circuit board go to the REVO power in.
Run the MOTOR out wires to the circuit board. 
I don't know if the BH headlights are directional or not, but if the loco moves forward with the headlight off, you'll need to swap the motor output wires or in the set up of the REVO (programming), reverse the motor direction. 

Mark


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## dpotp (May 25, 2011)

I am using battery power. There is only one headlight in the engine, the tender does not have a light.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

A few possibilities, then. Assuming with battery power you're putting everything in the tender... 

Isolate the wires going to the headlight. Depending on the model of the 4-6-0, this will either be an incandescent bulb or an LED. If it's an LED, it's got a dropping resistor in series with it right near the headlight, so you can put full battery voltage to it without worries. Clip these from the main PC board and run those back to the tender. Find the motor and remove the "noise filter" on the back of it. That's the little circular PC board attached to the motor. Don't need it. Then run wires from the motor back to the tender. Everything else in the locomotive, don't worry about unless you want the really wimpy smoke that comes from the stock smoke unit. 

So, now you've got a total of 6 wires going between the loco and tender. Two for the motor, two for the headlight, and two for the sound cam that's on one of the drivers. (Note - the sound cam only has two contacts, so you only get two chuffs per revolution of the driver. If you want four, get some aluminum duct tape and cut a thin strip, taping it to the round cam in between the metal contacts that are already there. (You may even consider removing those and and using magnets and a reed switch instead.) Use whatever plugs you'd like to use between the loco and tender. I've found that R/C servo extension cables have very nice plugs on them. I've used others (Dean's, stock Bachmann, etc.) and the servo plugs are the easiest to plug and unplug. They're also capable of handling the current used by our locomotives. 

On the Revolution, connect the motor leads to the motor output, and the headlight to one of two places. Either connect it to the headlight connectors if you want it directional (on only when moving forward, off when stopped and in reverse) or wire it to the power input to the Revolution, in which case it will be on whenever the power is turned on to the locomotive. As a third alternative--_if the light is an LED_--you can connect one lead to the headlight common, and the other to one of the six auxiliary triggers, and use the function buttons to turn the headlight on and off. Note that with LEDs, they only light up when power flows one way. If they don't light up as you'd expect them to, switch the leads. I believe the Revolution uses a positive common for the headlight, but don't quote me on that. The two wires for the chuff can go to the sound system if you install one. 

On the batteries, put a 5-amp fuse in line with them before the power switch. Out of convention, I put it on the positive lead, but it really doesn't matter. You just want something in there that will protect the battery and electronics in the event of an "oops." Don't rely on the built-in circuit protection. The fuse and fuse holder will run you all of $2. Cheap insurance if nothing else. 

Later, 

K


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## dpotp (May 25, 2011)

Thanks for the input, its a big help.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Very well written and thorough description Kevin. Thanks for taking the time.

I think the only thing you left out was battery charging. If you want to charge the batteries in place without having to remove them each time, you need a charging jack in your power circuit. I offer a very nice little board that combines all of the power functions for you. It has a power on/off switch with LED, 5 amp fuse, and a remote charging jack that you can mount anywhere on your tender. The on/off switch protrudes through the floor for easy access. There are also extra power output terminals to simplify getting power to your sound board. This eliminates a lot the wiring and soldering hassles. Click here for: Floor mount Battery Conversion Module There is also a version without charging jack if you plan on removing/swapping out batteries to extend run times. Another version is designed for use in trailing cars. They work great for any battery power installation.


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## dpotp (May 25, 2011)

Thanks Del. I just bookmarked your site for future installations.


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