# Foundry methods and Ideas



## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

There has been a lot of talk on “Redbeards Ruby Heisler “ Thread about casting and foundry activity. In light of that I thought I would start a new thread where we can all share our methods experiences and opinions on what works for us. I am in the process of completing a garage (Just drywall to go) where I hope to create as many Live Steam locos as I can. I had my mill and lathe sat in place before I even put the walls up. Also on the must list of tools is some foundry equipment. Below is a link to an excellent site that I have learned a ton from. I intend to build a furnace based on many of the features he describes. Granted some of his furnaces may be a bit big for G gauge locos, but would be right at home for 1/8 scale. I’ll probably end up with one small and one large furnace as my intentions are to build a bit of both.









Backyard Metal Casting[/b]



So, anyone else out there have and Ideas methods or comments?


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Sorry For the above garble. Not sure What I did. Here is a less cluttered version: 

There has been a lot of talk on “Redbeards Ruby Heisler “ Thread about casting and foundry activity. In light of that I thought I would start a new thread where we can all share our methods experiences and opinions on what works for us. I am in the process of completing a garage (Just drywall to go) where I hope to create as many Live Steam locos as I can. I had my mill and lathe sat in place before I even put the walls up. Also on the must list of tools is some foundry equipment. Below is a link to an excellent site that I have learned a ton from. I intend to build a furnace based on many of the features he describes. Granted some of his furnaces may be a bit big for G gauge locos, but would be right at home for 1/8 scale. I’ll probably end up with one small and one large furnace as my intentions are to build a bit of both. 

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/ 

So, anyone else out there have and Ideas methods or comments?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

A foundry sound very intriguing to me


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Now that I think of it there was also a good article on foundry work in the last issue of "Live Steam and Outdoor Railroading" It's the Nov/Dec 2010 issue volume #44


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

for those just starting out, you can try some low-heat melting of lead and solder, which are or used to be sold at Ace Hardware. I 1 pound bars of each for about $10 each. The store also sold me a cast iron pot. I melt it outside on a burner on my grill. You can even pour the mixture into RTV molds. 

made these 7/8 scale wheels using that metal and RTV. You don't even need a furnace. 










Dave V


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## chrisb (Jan 3, 2008)

A while back I think I came across some stuff on the Insrtuctables web site that may have dealt with casting metals. 
I ad allways wanted to be able to cast brass. I was going to appoach it by msking a forge from a truck rim and fire brick 
then use a shop vac and reostat for the blower. I don't know if a steel melting post can handle the temp for brass. 
HF sells IR temp guns that would be handy for monitoring the process. Don't know if they go high enough. 
Soft coal bothers my sinuses so I didn't do much with this but just some basic black smithing.


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## Dwayne (Jun 10, 2010)

Posted By SE18 on 26 Nov 2010 06:02 AM 
for those just starting out, you can try some low-heat melting of lead and solder, which are or used to be sold at Ace Hardware. I 1 pound bars of each for about $10 each. The store also sold me a cast iron pot. I melt it outside on a burner on my grill. You can even pour the mixture into RTV molds. 

made these 7/8 scale wheels using that metal and RTV. You don't even need a furnace. 

Dave V 



Dave, how well are the flanges holding up on actual running from wear and tear? And are you machining them after casting? Reason I ask is that I have the equipment for casting bullets and had thought of using lead for wheels.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Posted By chrisb on 26 Nov 2010 06:33 AM 
A while back I think I came across some stuff on the Insrtuctables web site that may have dealt with casting metals. 
I ad allways wanted to be able to cast brass. I was going to appoach it by msking a forge from a truck rim and fire brick 
then use a shop vac and reostat for the blower. I don't know if a steel melting post can handle the temp for brass. 
HF sells IR temp guns that would be handy for monitoring the process. Don't know if they go high enough. 
Soft coal bothers my sinuses so I didn't do much with this but just some basic black smithing. 


Hi Chris,
Most IR temature guns that we would al consider affordable only go to 999 degrees. Aluminum melts at 1200 and brass at 1700. So these guns are not good for our purposes. Generally you can use a steel crucible to melt aluminum and you may get away with brass since steel melts around 2500 depending on the grade. For brass melting I would prefer a graphite crucible. I picked a decent sized one up off of ebay for only $40. If you look at the link I posted earlier, he has some great designs for propane burners that would give you all the punch you need and probably be adaptable to the temporary set up that you describe. You would not need a rehostat is you just added a hole to your blower pipe that had a slideable cover that could open or cover the hole. Mind you I have not melting chunk one of metal yet, but I've been researching it for a while and hope to jump into it with both feet in the spring. Hope I don't get burned!


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Dwayne, 

They're holding up fine. I used a mixture 50/50 of solder/lead. The flanges are a bit thick, as you can see. The only machining I did was to file the back of the wheel a bit to get the flange in tolerance to pass thru the flangeways. IOW, I made the flanges a bit thick to begin with and then reduced. 

Dave 

Wheels are a bit extreme for thin parts using this method. There are other portions of the train that would work well too. Or, this technique works for filling under-body cavities to add weight to rolling stock or over loco drivers.


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## Dwayne (Jun 10, 2010)

Posted By SE18 on 26 Nov 2010 09:15 AM 
Dwayne, 

They're holding up fine. I used a mixture 50/50 of solder/lead. The flanges are a bit thick, as you can see. The only machining I did was to file the back of the wheel a bit to get the flange in tolerance to pass thru the flangeways. IOW, I made the flanges a bit thick to begin with and then reduced. 

Dave 

Wheels are a bit extreme for thin parts using this method. There are other portions of the train that would work well too. Or, this technique works for filling under-body cavities to add weight to rolling stock or over loco drivers. 


Thanks Dave. It's an option I may look into. Not sure if I'll want to deplete my lead supply meant for ammo.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are some very interesting books I got years ago on lost wax casting. Amazon has them.

First is "Lost Wax or Investment Casting" by James E. Sopcak, ISBN# 0-935182-28-4. This book shows how to make all the equipment for lost wax casting. He has a homemade vacuum mixer, burnout over, pressure casting machine, wax injector and other stuff. A buddy if mine built all this stuff and he says they work good. 

Second is "Centrifugal or Lost Wax Jewelry Casting" by Murray Bovin. ISBN# 0-910280-05-3. This book is intended for professionals with commercial equipment, but goes extensively into mold making. Most of the mold making stuf you can do in a homeshop I'm sure.

Third is "Li'l Bertha, A Compact Electric Resistance Shop Furnace" by David L. Gingery, ISBN 0-917914-16-3. This describes how to make a neat little electric furnace capable of melting brass. Budget Casting sell the parts. "Unka Dave" specifies the use of a cast refractory to make this. But that's hard to do. Most guys make this furnace from soft fire brick. (Lindsay Publications has this book)

I really want to set up a lost wax foundry before I leave this earth. And I think Sopcak and Grigery are within my reach. Like everythinmg else, have to find the time.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Speaking of 'Gingery' you may find this of interest.

David J. Gingery Publishing[/b]


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't want to dis low heat white metal castings, but in my opinion they are only good for applications where tinsel strength and rigidity are not an issue. Decorative items that have some support and will not be subjected to constant wear. Brass is much more preferable and well worth the investment in time and money (if you can afford both) to learn and to use. First brass is a lot more durable than white metals (especially lead) and it is less toxic. 
I know that the Romans used to use it as a seasoning and that a lot of the scare about lead is over exaggerated. But it is a metal that accumulates in the system and too much of it can cause neurological disorders, so I think it should be used conservatively, and not just to a paranoid level of avoidance. 
Heck, I was a kid in the 50s and 60s and all the houses I lived in and the schools I went to had lead pipes. I've crimped more lead fishing weights with my teeth than I can count, and I'm still in ok condition. So, I am just saying be conservative with it. 
Being able to cast in brass adds a whole new level of craftsmanship to your modeling skills. I wish I had the time and money to do it. Keep us posted on your progress Randy. 
BTW: Dave those are nice castings and that dog is amazing. Really good painting on it.


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## Tim Hytrek (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a video I found on you tube. This guy has a whole series, dealing with sand casting, and many videos on machining tips.

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## Tim Hytrek (Jan 2, 2008)

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These are videos I found on you tube. I found them very helpful, and this guy was kind enough to show some very interesting looks into foundry work. Hats off to Tublicane! He has 155 videos, with even more info if youre hungry for it!


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## GaryR (Feb 6, 2010)

My self, I have the 5 gallon can furnace. I can cast up to 4.5 lbs of aluminum. I have both green sand(water based), and petrobond(oil based). I have a crucible made from 4" pipe . I use either propane or charcoal for heat.

I can tell you, what will hold up the making of the furnace will be the refractory. It''s not cheap and the home brew stuff doesn't work too well, but it will get you started. 

I will be casting parts in the next few weeks for 7.5 gauge locos and rolling stock. Likely the wheels will be first. I will be going roughly by examples found on 

http://www.cannonballltd.com/ . 
I started some years ago with the Back Yard casting group mentioned above. I'll try to answer questions if asked. 


Like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...Y-M3DWhyT8 


GaryR


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Tim, 
Those were awesome videos


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

what can I say but awesome videos. I've seen this guys videos some time ago but not these. He took his name from Genesis. First metal maker. 

Dave


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