# Russia iron boiler jacket colour question..



## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello everybody, new to this forum and a new steam modeler, I am reading this forum the last few days in order to learn about Ruby locomotive and i have lot of questions for you experts. While waiting my accucraft ruby kit which I plan to build straight from the box first and then start modifications I want to ask you about that Russia iron boiler jacket color. Is this a special color that changes brass into that black shade? Can you tell me where can I find it?


Thomas


----------



## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

Russia Iron was a planished (hammered) sheet iron that was rust-resistant, which was why it was used for boiler jackets. It had a very shiny surface, and a color anywhere from light gray to black. Because it was so reflective, it also picked up a lot of sky color, which is why some models have been painted metallic blue. 

To make a "Russia iron" jacket, any of the blackening solutions will do. I've used BlackenIt and Cupric Sulfate in ammonia (which gives a brownish tint). If you have steel shim stock, you could use gun bluing. 

Bottom line, though, is that any patinated metal that tends to gray or black will be "authentic", as long as it's very shiny. If you haven't found it yet, I put a template for cutting a Ruby boiler jacket on my "Things to do with a Ruby" page. 

http://vrbass.swcp.com/steam/ruby/rubythings.htm


----------



## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

For more background: http://www.narrowgauge.iform.com.au/russian-iron.html


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

For even more background: Russia Iron

Scot


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I use one of three "finishes" to replicate a Russian Iron (or any plannished iron) finish. 

Here's a Ruby with a blackened brass jacket, using Birchwood Casey's Brass Black 









I've also used Testor's ModelMaster "Buffable" Gunmetal paint, though I've only done this on my electric mice. I don't know how well it would hold up to heat, though other commercial spray finishes I've used (Krylon, Floquil, etc.) seem to do okay. 









My most recent technique involves brushing graphite powder on a previously painted boiler jacket, then coating with clear acrylic to seal it in. 









All three techniques give similar, but unique results. All are very reflective in terms of picking up the color of the sky (much more than what's seen in the photos for whatever reason). 

Later, 

K


----------



## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Thank you very much guys for the info. I have already ordered Birchwood Casey's Brass Black and ‘’Blacken it’’ liquids to use em on my forthcoming Ruby. Since im coming from static scale modeling that weathering is a critical factor i have some ideas to try.
If the results are good i will make a post here. 
Kevin, from all three I love Ruby boiler, looks more authentic, ofcourse as you said it is difficult to understand from a picture.

Thank you again.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I wholeheartedly agree that the blackened brass looks the most "realistic" of the three, given that it's actually a treated metal. It's definitely the way to go when working on models in which you can easily take all the details off the boiler to put a new jacket on. The trade-off is that it is bare metal, so you may run into some difficulties when applying weathering, depending on the level of weathering you want to accomplish. Powders aren't going to stick well (if at all), and acrylic washes have difficulty finding "tooth" to grab onto, as well. If they're thicker, then they grab on better, but they still have a tendency to easily scratch off. You could try clear-coating the boiler jacket once you apply the blacken-it and see if that makes a difference. I've managed to do some light weathering on my blackened brass jackets, but not to the extent that I've been able to do on my "painted" ones. 

Having said that, the oil from the steam loco and the dust that invariably collects on it as it sits on the shelf is in many ways its own weathering. 

Later, 

K


----------



## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Actually I was thinking something like this method: http://mastermodels.blogspot.com/20...egins.html using maskol and playing with the shades buy making the solution thinner or heavier without using any colors. I expect that heat itself produce its own weathering. I just have to make some trials to see what happens.


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Be sure your brass is clean and free of oil, including fingerprints. If you hit an area that refuses to turn black stick the tip of an Exacto blade into the liquid, being careful to not scratch the metal and it will get darker. Iron/steel is an accelerator... 

John


----------



## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Posted By gordini on 16 Jan 2012 10:40 AM 





I don’t understand why in my replies before my message i get all this characters which I don’t know what it is !!


----------



## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"I don’t understand why in my replies before my message i get all this characters which I don’t know what it is !!" 

gordini 

I have read on these forums that certain web browsers tend to leave random code in the poster's messages. This may be what is happening to you. Other members may be able to identify the browsers that cause this "irregularity." 

Hope this helps, 
David Meashey


----------

