# Cutting Scale Dimensional Lumber on the Band Saw, Techniques and Procedures



## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Early last year I did a little series on cutting scale lumber on the table saw. That series generated a lot of interest in band saws. So I added the little piece at the end. Interest continued in band saws and a lot of questions came off the board. Lots of hobbyists don’t own tables saws and don’t have room for one in a small garage shop. They have room for a roll around/ bench top band saw, a drill press and hand tools. That’s about it. So I want to revisit band saws and show some accessories and techniques to cut scale dimensional lumber.

Before getting started, a word about band saw safety. Band saws are not as intimidating as table saws, but they still very dangerous machines. Review your band saw safety procedures thoroughly. Safety can not be emphasized enough. Make sure your machine is in good repair and operational in accordance with its manual. Make sure the shop has plenty of lighting and good ventilation. Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection and a good dust mask. Cutting scale lumber brings another type of safety hazard. It is very monotonous work. The same steps repeated several times over. It is easy to loose concentration or think ahead to the next part of the job. It is also easy to get distracted. Stay concentrated and totally focused on what you are doing.

Most home shop band saws are either a 14” or 7” capacity. That number refers to the diameter of the wheels. 14” band saws are generally fixed or on roll around carts. They use a blade that is 93.5” long. The 7” saw is a bench top style and uses a 56.5” blade. For many years I used an import 7”, I still have it and it still does a good job. The newer one is a “Ridgid” brand 14” from Home Depot. 










Before cutting lumber there are some modifications and accessories to do. First, secure the saw to a sturdy bench or solid locking wheel cart so that it does not move around while in operation. Then attach a pair of sturdy hardwood rails on the front and back of the table. Make them flush to the table, provide a cutout for a miter gauge. 14” saws usually have tapped holes for this purpose.










Next is a “zero clearance” throat plate. The stock throat plate is not very good. The slot is too wide and does not rest flush with the tabletop. Make a blank throat and fit it in the slot. The new throat plate here is 1/8” hardboard. 










The next thing to make is a sliding table for cross cuts. Some band saws may come with a miter gauge for this purpose. Mine did not. The miter gauge from the table saw does not fit the slot on the band saw. Buying a separate miter gauge for the band saw is too costly and not necessary. This is a top view of the sliding table.










Here’s the bottom view. The hardwood strip fits close and smooth in the slot on the table. Lube the bottom of the sliding table with paste wax for a really smooth glide.










Here’s the sliding table on the band saw. It is 12” wide and 14” long. Be careful to ensure the fence on top is exactly square to the guide strip on the bottom. We’ll demonstrate the sliding table later.










The next thing to make is a stop gauge for cross cutting. It’s used in conjunction with the sliding table. It is a 12” length of 1 x 2 board with a 1/4" hex head bolt stuck in sideways at the end.










And a close up of the bolt head. More on its use later.










Just like on a table saw, the band saw needs a fence. The fence is nothing more then a cleaned up, 16” length of nice 2” x 3” or 2” x 4”. That’s it for the fence. 










The last accessories are featherboards. They are the exact same featherboards used on the table saw. They are nice clean pine boards, with the end cut at 45 degrees. The saw cuts are 1/8” width wide and about 2” deep. The bottom board is 1/4" thick, the middle is 1/2" thick and the top is 3/4". From the ruler you can get the width and length. These get used a lot, so make some extras.










Featherboards may be commercially available, but may not be long enough to fit your saw. The feathers need to be consistent width to work best. You can cut them out on the band saw or ask a buddy to cut some for you on a table saw. Or give me a call and I’ll make you a set.

That’s all the accessories and modifications. Next time we will rip some lumber.


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## astrayelmgod (Jan 2, 2008)

"Next time we will rip some lumber." 

Before that, how about talking about setting up the band saw properly. My blade wanders, and I can't get it to stop. I tightened the top wheel, and set the guide rollers per instructions, and moved the guide roller holder down next to the work piece. Nothing helps. So I rarely use my band saw, and never use it when I care about the qualiity of the cut, which I almost always do.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By astrayelmgod on 27 Nov 2011 09:35 PM 
"Next time we will rip some lumber." 

Before that, how about talking about setting up the band saw properly. My blade wanders, and I can't get it to stop. I tightened the top wheel, and set the guide rollers per instructions, and moved the guide roller holder down next to the work piece. Nothing helps. So I rarely use my band saw, and never use it when I care about the qualiity of the cut, which I almost always do. 

Stay tuned. Got you covered.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Time to rip some lumber. The blade on the saw is a standard, off-the-shelf blade from Lowe’s or Home depot. It is 1/4" wide with 6 teeth per inch. It will do for what we will cut today. The blade tension is not very high. Most 14” saws have a blade tightening gauge on the upper wheel based on the width of the blade. Just follow that. If your saw does not have a gauge, tighten it so you can deflect the blade about 1/4" without much pressure. 

Band saws have a very annoying habit of not cutting straight or “wandering”. If you have ever tried using a fixed, perpendicular fence you know that. The board either wants to bind tightly against the fence, or pull away from it. There are many possible reasons for that, but usually it’s a blade problem. The blade may have some teeth sticking out farther or maybe a bit dull one side. The blade will tend to cut towards the sharper side, the path of least resistance. Instead of changing the blade or trying to trouble shoot, just compensate for it. Compensating for the error is easy to do.

Draw a pencil line on a test piece of lumber exactly parallel to the edge. Start the band saw and freehand cut along the line. When you are cutting straight on the line, stop cutting, hold the board down on the table firmly by hand and shut the saw off. Let it wind down to a stop.










It is clear to see in the photo that this board is not cutting parallel to the saw. I had to maintain about 3 degrees counter-clock wise on the test board to cut straight on the line. Use your adjustable bevel to capture the angle between the test board and the table edge.










The adjustable bevel is set at 93 degrees.

Withdraw the test board. Place the fence on the table and use the setting on the adjustable bevel to set the fence while measuring the thickness of the cut you want from the blade.










With the fence set to the adjustable bevel, and the thickness you want, clamp the fence down on the end rails. Next clamp down a featherboard so the tip is just behind the blade. Make the featherboard just tight enough against the stock board to hold it against the fence. You are in business.










For this example, let’s cut some 3/8” x 1/8” strips. The fence is set with the adjustable bevel to 3/8”. The stock is ordinary 3/4" pine.

Run the stock through the blade at a good, steady pace. Let the blade do the cutting. Use a little push stick to finish the cut. It will cut straight and true each and every time. After the cut, re-adjust the featherboard.

For the second cut, readjust the fence to 1/8” and clamp down the feather board. Here’s where the tip of the featherboard goes. Just shy of the blade.










Run the stick thru on the new fence setting. Nice looking lumber.










You are not done yet. The scale lumber comes out of the saw with a lot of “whiskers” on the edges. They need to come off. Make a sanding block from a 2” x 4” block and course sandpaper.










Lightly buff the scale lumber to knock off the whiskers. Now you are done.








Rip 8

Some observations:

1. The featherboard is essential. It acts as a “third hand” to keep the stock up against the fence. Your left hand is pushing the stock; the right hand guides the forward end of the stock. The tendency is to push the stock with the right hand against the fence after its cut. After 3 or 4 cuts, the stock board is no longer straight; it will have a pronounced curve. The featherboard keeps the stock against the fence before the blade, where the support is needed.

2. Feed rate is important. Not to fast, not too slow, it’s just practice. Slower is generally better, but then work takes a long time. “Just right” is the best.

3. Band saw tables are not very long. For long cuts get a helper. The helper is called a “tailman”. The tailman’s position is on the out feed side of the table facing the sawyer. The tailman supports the end of the stock as it comes off the table. He gathers and organizes lumber so the sawyer can concentrate on the blade. The tailman DOES NOT pull stock through the blade, that’s the sawyer’s job.

4. The finish cut is very nice, but it is rough. The vertical saw marks, however, are not that pronounced and adds a nice texture. While a table saw cuts smoother, a glass smooth surface requires a planing machine.

That’s it for today, next time we’ll do some cross cut techniques.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Cross cutting scale lumber to length on the band saw requires the use of the sliding table we made earlier. There are 2 methods for cross cutting. The first method cross cuts long stock into short length finished lengths. Use a ruler to measure from the blade to the cross cut stop accessory. Clamp the cross cut stop to the table making sure the stop is well short of the blade.










Set the sliding table in the table slot. Set the stock piece on the sliding table and slide the stock to the left until it touches the stop.










Hold the stock against the fence by hand and glide it thru the blade. Repeat the process until the stock is used up.










The other cross cut method is used for stock that only needs a trim or shorter lengths of stock that fits inside the band saw throat. For this method, use a block of wood as a stop. Clamp the stop directly to the sliding table.










Load the stock onto the sliding table and take the cut. In this case there are 3 pieces of stock on the table for a gang cut.










That’s basically it for cross cutting. The sliding table is a very handy attachment. You can use it for cross cutting strips and cutting large panels. It’s only limitation is that it will not make an angled cut. For that you will be a regular miter gauge or make a sliding table with the fence set at the desired angle. 

So far we have only made cuts on 3/4" thick boards. The blade is a 1/4", 6 teeth per inch. A 14" band saw is capable of a much wider cut. The 6 tooth blade works for thinner stock, but on wider boards, it will have trouble. For wider cuts switch to a 1/2" wide, 4 teeth per inch blade. 










That blade is also an off-the-shelf blade from Lowe’s or Home Depot. All the techniques discussed so far work for wider cuts. Take a test cut on a 2 x 4 and set the adjustable bevel, just as before. Here’s a 2 x 4 laid flat, cutting 3/4" thick slabs.










The band saw can easily handle a 2 x 4 turned up on end. Put a little riser block under the featherboard to center it on the 2 x 4. 










The sheet on the right is 1/8” thick. The sheet on the left is 1/16”. Easy cuts.










1/16” square is not hard to do. Even with the course blade.










The maximum width cut on a 14” band saw is 6”. But for our hobby purposes, ripping a 2 x 4 on edge is probably enough. Anything wider will require a 3-tooth blade or maybe coarser.

That’s it for cutting scale lumber on the band saw. Cutting lumber on the band saw is not difficult. Once you get used to setting the fence, work moves quickly. Perhaps down the road you can make a fancy adjustable fence and really get to work. 

Thanks to everyone who stopped by for a look see. In the next week or two we will get started on a “proof of concept” project using the band saw to cut all the lumber.

Take care and be safe.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Bob, 
My band saw table doesn't have a slot or mounting holes. How do you suggest I go about using my table effectively and efficiently? Should I try and find a new table for my old saw? 
And does the wood stop (for cross cutting) you made have to be perpendicular to the blade? In your example above you noted that the angle of the fence needs to be adjusted (in your case 93%) so that the wood is cut straight. I wouldn't think it would be a problem cross cutting, but just wondering. 
Craig


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By bnsfconductor on 01 Dec 2011 06:49 PM 
Bob, 
My band saw table doesn't have a slot or mounting holes. How do you suggest I go about using my table effectively and efficiently? Should I try and find a new table for my old saw? 
And does the wood stop (for cross cutting) you made have to be perpendicular to the blade? In your example above you noted that the angle of the fence needs to be adjusted (in your case 93%) so that the wood is cut straight. I wouldn't think it would be a problem cross cutting, but just wondering. 
Craig 
Craig: Mounting holes, you mean to attach the rails? You can drill them and use bolts if you have to. I did that on a saw I had years ago. No slot, you can do a sliding table where the guide on the bottom rides against the side of the saw table. But the side has to be smooth and clean. It probably isn't. You may want to get a new table.

No, the stop does not have to be perpendicular to the blade. Eye close is good enough. You are correct, cross cut is straight 90 degree, there is no wandering like on a rip cut. 


vr Bob


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Bob, 
My table is nice and smooth and waxed so I shouldn't have a problem with sliding a table across. Before my brother in law gave the saw to me, he sandblasted the table, and put wax on it.  
If you use a sliding table do you have to do any other adjustments? 

Craig


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By bnsfconductor on 01 Dec 2011 07:53 PM 
Bob, 
My table is nice and smooth and waxed so I shouldn't have a problem with sliding a table across. Before my brother in law gave the saw to me, he sandblasted the table, and put wax on it.  
If you use a sliding table do you have to do any other adjustments? 

Craig 
That's good, it will work. A sliding table bearing on the side of the band saw table will work fine. I did that on a little home made table I saw had in Belgium


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I don't know why it is but my Shopsmith band saw does not seem to wander. I use it to cut scale lumber. I made a fence, but have not yet built the sliding arriage. Nice job with your lesson. It cleared up a bunch of issues for me. 

Keep upt the good work.


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