# Broken 4-6-2 pacific engine 1991 old style need advise to repair



## LOST AND CONFUSED (Mar 7, 2008)

I* purchased it from EBAY POST OFFICE USED AS A PINYATTA . Insurance takes forever so seller and I worked out a lower price so I could keep it . I got motor running by directly running DC to it I cant figure out why* 
I am not able to get power from track on to wheels. I can get motor to run by hooking up to long copper connectors above wheels but cant get it to run under power from wheels. If anyone has had this problem please respond.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

The motor runs when power is applied to the copper reed connectors....probably used for sound pickup? Have you check to see that the small spring loaded brushes are both there? You haven't mentioned the manufacturer of the engine? Bachmann, USA, Aristocraft, etc.? Normally for track power, the metal wheels must transfer the electricity from the rails through some pickup brushes. Maybe you could load a pickup for where you are applying power vs. where you think it should be picking up power. If it is LGB, then the pickup is done with "shoes" that are spring loaded to bear directly to the rails and are not dependent on the wheels. Little more info may help. Ed


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

One other thought....was this engine converted for battery operation? If so, the wires from the pickup wheels would have been cut or removed....in which case you would have to rewire it to get track power.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Check to see if the switches on the cab floor are set properly. 
As Paul noted over on the Public forum (confusing having both - let's use this one.) The old Aristo 4-6-2 has two slider switches on the cab floor. One disconnects the motor from the track so the lights, etc., will work while it is 'parked'. Slide the tab forward or backwards to test it. 

Whaddya know - I still have the 1993 Manual that came with my loco. Again - assuming it is the Aristocraft 4-6-2, the Motor on/off switch is on the engineer's side (RH looking forward) - "push in for ON" it says. I assume that "in" is towards the front.
The smoke unit is controlled from a slider in front on the pilot. So what's the second switch in the cab for . . Aha! The lights switch is on the freman's side.

I have taken mine apart a couple of times, so if the switches don't solve your problem, just ask.

Also read George's "tips" page: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips2/pacific_tips.html


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

It's also possible that some of the wires inside the area of the drivers are burnt. You will need to remove the cover plate to access. Been awhile but I had to completely rewire mine after a short burned them up. Later RJD


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## LOST AND CONFUSED (Mar 7, 2008)

thanks for everyone's input I verified floor switches not the problem I cant get contact from the middle wheels so I took it apart all seems fine the springs are attached. I have contact between the gear box assembly and the two long copper strips. The only thing I found was the bushing for the wheels were not setting in their grooves properly. I resent them into there grooves by putting the metal washers to the inside of shafts before the groove that the bushings holding the wheel shafts goes into.

I still get no response when I apply power directly to wheels or to the guide wheels. I was next going to try and meter between the long brass contacts and the wheels. Any other suggestions will be welcomed and tried .I did visit GEORGES PAGE BUT COULD NOT FIND A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR MY LOCO SINCERELY LOST AND CONFUSED


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe this will help.









Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific Newer Version (c. 2008) - Wiring (George Schreyer)[/b]
_(Pacific/Mikado schematics - as built by Aristo & as modified by George.) 
Take note of wiring change in second schematic (i.e. T1, B1, & Com).
Also in the newer Pacific there is the Planar Meander Resistor/Thermal Switch combination for over current protection. if the thermal switch is defective it might also account for your problem._










_ (Photo above & drawing below from George Schreyer's web site.)_









Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific Older Version (c. 1997) - Installation of DCC in the Pacific (George Schreyer)[/b]
_(Pacific schematic - as built by Aristo & as modified by George)_

Aristo-Craft 4-6-2 Pacific (ART-21400, c. 1997) - Exploded Diagrams PDF (location on new Aristo web site)[/b]
_(Note: Page 4; Item #171 - Electrical Eyelet; (One per driver depicted in drawing, don't know if newer style used same method, but if disconnected or removed for battery operation could account for your problem.))_

Aristo-Craft 2-8-2 Mikado (ART-21500, c. 2003) - Exploded Diagrams PDF (location on new Aristo web site)[/b]
_(Note: Page 5; Item #161 - Electrical Eyelet; One per driver depicted, the newer Pacific may be done in this manner like the Mikado is, again may be broken or removed.))_
_(Also if new Electrical Eyelet refer to __Greg Elmassian's web site - Aristo Prime Mover Basics - Power conduction overview: - 10th picture down__.)_


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it shorting out when you apply power? I think you may have over look the wiring in the driver area. You mentioned a brass strip. Look for any small wires that may attach to it. Have you completely disassemble the driver brick? Later RJD


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## Paul Norton (Jan 8, 2008)

Have you printed the Exploded Parts Diagrams for the vintage Pacific that is available on the Aristo-Craft web site?

http://aristocraftforum.com/NewDocs/explodedDiagrams/pacific.pdf 

On page 2 it shows the track power wires for both the pilot and trailing truck. All the wires have small brass loop connectors on one end that should be attached with screws to the brass strips running from the smoke box to the backhead.

On page 4 is shows the track power wires (part 171) behind each of the drive wheels. All the wires have small brass loop connectors on one end that should be attached with screws to the brass strips running from the smoke box to the backhead.

It has been over a decade since I worked with a track powered vintage Pacific, but the diagrams I drew at that time for our club web site indicate that all the track power wires are attached to these two brass strips.

If you want to look at the diagrams just click on the following link. 

http://www.ovgrs.org/Paciific 

You can probably remove the backhead to see these brass strips. As I remember the backhead is fastened to the cab floor with two screws at the bottom. You will also have to push the cab light out of its holder at the top of the backhead. See page 1 of the Exploded Parts Diagrams.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ahh.. the good old days of all wheel pickup...


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## LOST AND CONFUSED (Mar 7, 2008)

I thank everyone for their input I finally found problem by metering the wheels. The contact on the wheel looked hooked up but when metered it failed so I bent it into place. I also found the contacts in the cab were slightly bent and they would

not always make contact. I ran for 10 minutes and it runs great.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

And thank you for coming back to us and letting us know what happened.


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