# remote turnout control



## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

I notice all these turnouts don't come with the actual control switch. what does everybody use and what is most common type. also, are they powered off track power, or do I run a separate surce .. and what would be an example of that source.
thanks


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

They all require an external power source. Whose switch machines are you asking about? 

Chuck


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

i will have a mixture of manufacturers, so any suggestions and info for aristo / lgb / etc etc would be great. if there is a sticky or thread that addresses this info , that would also help


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB and Piko have DC units and a DCC controller can be added. Trainli has a DC/DCC unit. Aristo may be hard to find as the original Aristo is gone but Generation next (track/rolling stock) and Crest (Electronics like Revolution) are making some of the products.
And any HO units could be used as long as you get enough throw. There is air control units also.
Just remember that for outdoor use, one must protect against the elements (moisture/water/dust/dirt/debri)


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i have to disagree.
LGB uses AC for powering turnout motors, not DC.

for LGB system have a look here:
http://kormsen.info/lgb-manual.pdf
(scroll down to "Taking Control")


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB had/has a control box (#51750) that can control up to 4 switches and/or signals. It takes an AC feed off the power supply and then through diodes sends a DC momentary pulse to the switch motor. The polarity of the DC pulse controls the direction the points will move.

It worked very well, with my LGB switches and signals, when I used it many years ago. I gave up on automatic switches after moving to Virginia. In Colorado I didn't have any problems. The climate in Virginia caused the switch motors to rust, and the housing to fill with dirt and ant nests.

Now all my switches are manual.

Since you are planning an indoor layout you shouldn't have any problems.

Chuck


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

*Got air?*

I've had pneumatic controls in my "yard yard" (train yard in my backyard) for a bout five years now. They just sit there, with no maintenance at all.

But I have two switches way around the front of the house, so I use the NCE switch controller that uses track power. But if your trains are indoors, you might not want to have a little compressor that runs periodically to keep the air pressure up (about 30 psi will do it).

All my pneumatics are from Sunset Valley since I use their SS track.

JackM


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## domer94 (May 4, 2015)

so just to be clear, I would have to use a "momentary" type switch to control the turnouts? would a regular DPDT be able to be wired up? something I can pick up at the electrical supply store? as far as the LGB control boxes, what type of power supply is usually used to give it and the turnouts the juice?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, momentary is needed. Otherwise you might burn out the coils.

I have used the AC tap on the back of my power supplies, but I found that a 24 volt AC transformer for lawn sprinkler controls worked better.

Chuck


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

well, the LGB manual (link in my first post) specifies - powered by 16V AC.
in the swichbox/or in the reedcontact are diodes. one button has the diode forwards, the other has it backwards.
they cut the AC in half. you get intermittent DC.
the direction of the diode sets the direction of the movement of the switch motor.

you could use simple DC (about 12V) and bellbuttons as well... - but keeping the thumb down too long, the real DC would burn your switchmotor.

the "cut" AC (= intermittent DC) does not burn out the switchmotors, even if left on permanently for some minutes. (it just makes a **** of a noise, telling you, which switch has problems)

on my layout (indoors) i am using the LGB color code.
red and blue for rails.
white and black from transformer to switchbox and orange and white to the switchmotor.
to save on cables i do connect the white direct to the blue, and take "white" for the switchmotors from the blue rail near the switches.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Clearly the LGB motors run on DC, whether continuous or pulsating, they will not operate if fed AC.

By using pulsed DC (actually just the positive or negative half of a 60 Hz AC wave), they run a higher voltage but the duty cycle is lower, so they effectively get the same "motor power" with less heat, and somewhat safer than continuous DC at the same voltage.

The nicest way would be a supply that provides a measured pulse and does not repeat it, so if someone holds the switch "engaged" it would not burn out the motor.

These circuits are available for HO so most likely would work here.

But the cheapest solution is a spdt switch, and 2 diodes fed by AC. A DPDT momentary switch is more money, and probably more than the extra costs of the 2 diodes.

Greg


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

http://www.reindeerpass.com/switch-control-box.aspx These work well, operate 4 switches.


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## AppleYankee (Jan 3, 2008)

LGB switch controls on my indoor layout










Jan


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

AppleYankee, you should feed the diodes with the power source and then you only need 1 pair of diodes for all switches, just or the 2 momentary switches to the switch motor.


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