# Piko New 2014 Camelback



## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Not sure if Piko's new Camelback locomotive has come up here yet. 
There is some talk on LSC 

Piko - Camelback  










Andrew


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

*RE: Piko Camelback*

Andrew;

Oh #*&%$!! Just when I had decided "no more sparkies," Piko has to go and do a thing like that! As a long-time Reading fan, this really puts me back on the fence. I still can remember riding a Reading Iron Horse Ramble - powered by T1s (4-8-4) 2124 and 2100 - as a tender lad of 12 years age.

Well, thanks for the news.

Yours,
David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I think this version is the best on this motor block, the 2-6-0 looked forced to me. 
Other than the wrong tender it is fairly balanced, 
There was talk of incomplete valve gear, but I think the link to the rear driver is over the main rod and hidden. 

John


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

David, 

You could always scratch build a steam one!


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Posted By BigRedOne on 24 Jan 2014 04:19 PM 
David, 

You could always scratch build a steam one!  Where can I buy scale anthracite for fuel? 

Andrew


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

A big hammer should produce scale anthracite from the real thing.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

"David, 

You could always scratch build a steam one!" 

BigRedOne; 

Wood and plastic I can manage. Metal pressure vessels are a whole different story. I have enough good sense to know that I couldn't and shouldn't scratch build a live steamer. I will leave that endeavor to those who have the proper skills. Now when it comes to running them, I DO have the proper skills. I earned my engineer's card on the W, K&S in 1976, so no problems there. The largest steamer I have run only weighed 65 tons in working order, but that still puts me ahead of the curve. 

Andrew; 

Buckwheat sized anthracite should be about right. Just remember that the prototypes mixed bituminous steam coal with the anthracite, so slip a little Welsh steam coal into the blend. 

Best to you both, 
David Measheyu


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I like big hammers... and big mallets too!



















Andrew


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Andrew, nice pic.
I like mine new...














































Perfect!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

The big 0-8-8-0 would be a neat model.


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## Dennis Paulson (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll be getting the camelback , it looks good to me , and my grandfather was a fireman on a camelback , back around 1900 , but I do not know what RR or what class of camelback that he fired on . It will look good in my glass case , and maybe run it sometimes .


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## rmcintir (Apr 24, 2009)

I asked several manufacturers to make one over the years. Of course engineers don't really like them, no fun when drivers come up through the cab but they do look awesome! Not buying much now but this will be the exception.


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## Bill C. (Jan 2, 2008)

The February issue of Model Railroad News has a nice ad for the new Piko camelback. I'm guessing it will have a lot of buyers. I have always liked them and still have my Japanese-manufactured New One diecast HO 0-4-0 camelback from circa 1959, even though it is a basket case.

Above is a shot of a 1955 last-run of a Jersey Central camelback which was taken not too far from my present location. It was taken by my late friend Bob Long.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

In Bert Penneypacker's book Reading Steam Pictorial it is noted that the Reading crews were so accustomed to camelbacks, that when the law decreed cab on the rear locomotives, the Reading men referred to them as "long Johns."

Best Wishes,
David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Speaking of long and Dave we know of the 4 - 8 - 0 .....


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh Wow!

Thanks John. Never saw a "mastadon camelback" before. Almost sounds like some kind of hanky-panky between two different species of mammals.  That locomotive is quite a beast.

Our Roanoke Chapter of the NRHS is slooooooooowly restoring an N&W "Molly" (M class) 4-8-0. Currently the goal is cosmetic restoration, but who knows? Engines in worse condition have been brought back to life. Time will tell.

Best,
David Meashey

P. S. On second glance, I've never seen knuckle couplers with dumb buffers on either side of them either. (Check the front coupler arrangement on the 4-8-0 and the locomotive in the background.) I wonder whether that was part of a scheme to reduce slack-action in helper service?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Kinda looks like they are using Janeys with the link and pin option. A slot was in the knuckle for the link.

I knew you'd like the pic, I posted as an attachment so you can capture the beast in full size.
Happy Rails,

John


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Is it just me...the loco appears to not have equal spaced drivers...

Correct or goof up?

Dirk. Might be food fer bashing if they were equaly spaced...


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Correct, #1 is forward a tad. That happens a lot. Moguls often have the last driver a lot farther back...

Way to go Eagle Eye.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Notice the backwards strut? The ones to the pilot are common, but back to the frame? Not seen that before...


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Lots of bad choices here..

Move front axle closer to middle driver
...then all is farther from cyclinders....short side rod

Or..

Move rear two axles forward ..closer to front driver..shorten main rod

Dirk


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Bad for whom? From the looks of all those back porches, they liked the look!


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Not the best choice as fodder food...
Better bashers are out there...

D


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Per the catalog, release date is second quarter 2014, hope I get something back on my taxes this year.


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## GN_Rocky (Jan 6, 2008)

I don't know if this loco is like the Mogul that Piko made, but I know the rolling stock they are making is 1/32nd scale. Basically the old MDC molds spiffed up a bit. Does it have those dreadful sliders too ??? On the Mogul, it is close to 1/29th, but it has those horrible sliders that contribute to the loco crashing/derailing on switches  I won't be getting one due to the look of it and the RRs I model didn't have it. But the slider thing is something to keep in mind. Perhaps if it does and you remove them, it will be an ok runner. I still need to remove the sliders on my Piko mogul. Then I'll know how well a runner it is.

Rocky


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Rocky;

There appears to be a slider (sometimes called a track shoe) between the first and second driver sets in the original post's photo.

I have seldom had a problem from my LGB locomotives with sliders, but do not have any experience with Piko. Guess I will find out once I purchase one.

The only locomotive that ever derailed due to the slider was the one below. No more problems once I gently bent the edges of the shoe upwards.










Yours,
David Meashey


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

not


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Madstang said:


> NO F'IN WAY!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> BUBBA WANT....BUBBA WANT!!!!!!
> 
> ...


What post are you referring to?  No one can tell..
(and the swearing is not cool..even when you "disguise" it..its not really disguised at all..)

Scot


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Scotty Hes asking Treeman I believe, his dealer.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Totalwrecker said:


> Scotty Hes asking Treeman I believe, his dealer.


am I missing something? because that doesnt make any sense either..
he is asking who? and asking him what? and asking him why?
there is no Mike, and there is no Treeman, anywhere in this thread.. 

Scot


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

not


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

and that explained nothing..ok then.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

It was not at all uncommon for locos to have unequally-spaced drivers. Typically on moguls, the space between the #1 and #2 axles was there because that's where the Stephenson linkage came through the frame to get to the steam chest. The eccentrics were on the #2 axle, with the reverse quadrants just forward of that. 

The spacing between the #2 and #3 axle depended on the style of mogul. If it was an early design a la the Bachmann c. 1876 2-6-0, the #2 and #3 axles were to the front and rear of the firebox, similar to 4-4-0s of the period. So on these, the #1 and #2 axles were closer together than the #2 and #3 axles, which would be very far apart.










Other moguls had fireboxes that were predominantly above the axles (the ashpan wrapped around them) or in some cases, behind the #3 axle. On these, the spacing between the #2 and #3 axles was pretty close--often about as close as you could get and still have room for brakes. So on these, there was a larger gap between the #1 and #2 axles than there was between the #2 and #3 axles










Once locomotives went to Walschearts valve gear (or others like Baker, Southern, etc.), everything was outside of the frames, so there was no need to leave space for mechanics to pass from the inside to the outside. (That's one of the reasons Walschearts became so popular--repairs were comparatively simple.) Once you got to that point, you began to see drivers become a bit more evenly spaced, but even then it was not at all uncommon for there to be a difference of a few inches in the spacing.

Later,

K


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I just know that he's (a poster) (in my mind ) associated with the Marty Party and the Treeman goes to those shows...


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Thank you for the clarifications about various Mogols Kevin...

It may have been prompted by my comment on driver spacing..
In my case I'm looking for drivers with equal spacing...for a loco other than a Mogol..
Mallets and articulateds need equally spaced drivers to me..

Thanks for great photos too!

Dirk


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

[ not


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

edited to match another.

Peace and Love

John


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

yeah, its always amusing when the person who is actually being very rude spends so much time suggesting that others are being rude..for saying he is rude..which is not being rude, it is simply stating the truth..but rude people are often very defensive.

Scot


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

It just a playing game called mind control...
Do as I say...
Not as I do....

It's Saturday..cold ..windy..nobody feels like playing follow the leader...thanks anyway Bubba...

Dirk


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

We have been to Marty's for many years. Also the National and ECLSTS. Long time member and advertise here.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Mike there is no friction with you, nor any doubts cast your way.
Thank you for supporting the site And taking care of Mr Bubba's wants. I hope you can get him this loco, he seems quite smitten by it.

Have a great day.

John


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

No problem here. We are looking forward to the new Piko loco, hope that it is a good seller. Piko seems to be doing quite a bit for the hobby in American rolling stock. Trying to fill a void left by LGB.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Gentlemen, enough. Y'all have said your piece about behavior, I suggest we let it lie.

Later,

K


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Bubba


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Bubba


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Pre-production version of the Piko Camelback demonstrated by Train World

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spsSvFfYD5Q&feature=youtu.be

Andrew


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

*BUMP!!*

Does anyone have the "skinny" on the status of these locomotives?

I paid for mine on 06/02/14. Sent the dealer an email requesting information yesterday, but they could be off to a show. I just want to know whether the product is now available to ship. I will try to be patient once I have some information.

Thanks in advance,
David Meashey


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Dave:

Does this help - from that other site?


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, that helps.

Looks as though they are just arriving at the dealers' locations. (Must be patient!)

Thanks,
David Meashey


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Yes aparently for sale here

http://www.trainworld.com/manufactu...back-loco-with-sound-and-smoke-reading-lines/


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

They shipped to us on the 16th, we had them on the 19th. All back orders were out on the 20th.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

As information.

Just got an email stating my locomotive will be shipped tomorrow. Horray!

Regards,
David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Excellent!


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)




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## Mike M (Jan 3, 2008)

Dave you will love it great engine for the price
Mike


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Would be great if someone could do a short video with sound and smoke on so we can see and hear it in action. Looks like a cool little loco for the money.

Boo Boo


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Boo Boo;

I was going to suggest checking the video on Train World's site. I checked it first, only to find that the pre-production model was shown - still running in "stealth" mode.

I do not have a video camera, so will have to defer that task to someone else.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi All;

I have not been able to read or post much lately, but I did get a chance to test my Piko camelback today (in between thunderstorms) - so I thought I should share my findings. I wanted to be sure the locomotive performed as it should before I recycled the shipping carton. I was not disappointed. Sorry, I did not have time to take photos - perhaps after I mount the Kadees and repair a broken flag post there will be time for photos.

The locomotive survived its journey fairly well, except for the above-mentioned flag post on the left side of the pilot beam. Some glue and a concealed wire armature should solve that problem - it's not worth sending the locomotive back for such a minor detail.

A quick read through the manual told me that the locomotive was able to tell whether it was getting DC power or a DCC signal. That was a relief, as I only have a Zephyr system, which is really only rated for HO equipment. To test, I used a small oval of 1500 LGB curves with OLD (Korean made) Aristo straight sections. I had to clean the rail heads first, as I have not run any electric locomotives for over a year. I used the MRC 10 amp pack (designed for large scale) as my power supply. Piko does not supply any sound activating magnets with the locomotive, so I used two of the magnets that I "harvest" from the toothbrush struts from my Phillips Sonicare system once the brush heads are worn out. These tiny magnets work quite well once bonded to a tie with some 3M mounting putty. Since the magnets are black, they are almost invisible once mounted to a tie. I placed one magnet on a section of straight track near the outside rail; the other magnet was placed on the opposite side of the oval near the inside rail.

I added smoke fluid to the stack (10 drops) and made sure the smoke selector switch (under the water hatch on the tender) was set to "On." The locomotive and tender are coupled electrically and mechanically by sliding the plug on the front tender truck into the socket on the locomotive, then closing a hinged metal clasp (from the tender plug) over the matching retainer lugs on locomotive's socket. I found that it was too difficult for me to see the plug and socket with the locomotive and tender at ground level (68 year old eyes), so I put some straight track on an outdoor storage chest and joined the two units there, then carried the locomotive to the oval.

The locomotive comes to life with the throttle on the power pack at about the 40% full power mark. This seems somewhat high to me, but may be due to the DCC/DC system within this locomotive. When the locomotive starts up, you hear the air pump cycle and perhaps some shoveling, then the whistle signal for the direction of travel - two longs for forward and three longs for reverse. The forward signal is correct, but reverse should be three short (three longs usually means the train has parted). At least it is three.

The exhaust beats are appropriate for the locomotive's speed and sound good and crisp. The smoke unit produces a good plume smoke. Once the smoke dwindled, I shut the smoke selector switch off. That cut out the unit immediately.

Depending on the direction of travel, either the headlight or the tender lamp is illuminated. The bell sounds good, and it does not sound for more than about 15 seconds. Now here is the icing on the cake! The whistle blows a proper crossing signal - two longs, a short, and another long. Somebody finally got it right.

All in all, I think this is a great little locomotive. Now I have to get the Kadees on it.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## Mike M (Jan 3, 2008)

Dave contact Piko they will ship the post to you. You do not have to ship the engine. if you have a problem I can send one to you
Mike


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## scoooterc (Jul 21, 2014)

Excellent.


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Unlike the Rock, I will be getting one. Who has the absolute best price as I Dont need it but could do with one. 

Boo Boo


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