# Cleaning track



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I run mostly brass track.

In cleaning the rails, I typically us a block of wood with sandpaper or I use my gondola that has a pc of drywall sandpaper mounted under it to clean the track.

Both of these methods only clean the top of the rail.

Is it important to clean the inside of the top head of the rail so the flanges has good conductivity or is cleaning the top of the rail good enough?

I'm assembling the track for my layout and I'm using a wire wheel to clean the end of the rails on each pc of track so the connection should have good conductivity.

I'll be starting a thread about my Garage layout soon.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy:

From my experience, sandpaper no matter how small the grit will leave scratches that will let dirt and crud accumulate. I prefer a green ScotchBrite pad. It does a good job polishing the rail and doesn't leave any obvious scratches. The flange for most wheels tapers away from the rail head, so there is very little contact with the rail other than on the rail top and perhaps a little on the roll over at the edge of the rail. The green pad is flexible enough to get that part of the rail.

This is what I use. I also use it to clean wheels on locomotives when they get cruddy.










It fits right on athe drywall sander that I use for track cleaning.



















This is the best system that I know of for easy track cleaning.

Chuck

PS: I have been using this system for over 25 years and I have not been able to detect any loss of rail height.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck 

I wonder if the 3M scotch brite pad is similar to the green scotch brite pads we use for the kitchen pots and pans?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What Chuck said on the scotchbrite. 

I like this unit:










See my page on track cleaning:

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains/tra...k-cleaning* 

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy: Yup!! Only, the ones I use are a little larger so that they fit on the drywall sander. Most hardware stores have them in the painting department.

Greg: The maroon pad in use on your cleaning car is a little too coarse for my liking. I thought that it puts more scratches on brass track than the green pad.

Chuck


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg 

the track cleaning cart looks great. 

Looks like a simple thing to make.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Somebody has to say it: "Clean track? Why?"


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No they don't Tom... battery people need track clear of sap and dirt and twigs too... 

Only people who have nothing better to do and don't have a layout???









Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg:

Well said!

Chuck

PS: It doesn't matter what your run. Tomorrow morning I'm going out to Dr. Rivet's to spent a couple of hours helping to get his track ready for the NG event this weekend. This is the time of year when things that don't melt fall from the sky. There will be only steam and battery. No track power. It still needs to be cleared.

PPS: only if you are running inside with non-track power can you probably get by without cleaning the track.


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

I run track power and I've used the Scothbrite pad for a few years just like Chuck. It does a great job. However, as the layout expanded I invested in the LGB cleaning loco (bought it from a fellow MLSer). God, I love that loco!!!! 


-Kevin.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've used the track cleaning loco (I used to own one) and it really does a good job of polishing off oxidation, but this was only needed when I had extreme oxidation. 

It also will grind down plastic frogs a bit. 

It's a bit costly to run, but really nice if you don't use the layout often enough so you build up heavy oxidation, or your climate (like mine) causes heavy oxidation. 

Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin:

I also have an LGB track cleaning loco. It does a great job, but it is abrasive. I use it probably once a year. Usually when we have been away for a month or more. Otherwise I use the green pad. You have to be careful with the LGB cleaner. I have some divots in my track where the engine derailed and stopped moving, but there was no short, so the grinder just ground away. 

Chuck


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

This is my design track cleaning engine that uses an AristoCraft U-boat. The U-boat has the necessary wheelbase to accept the hand held drywall sander. The I use the 220 grit drywall pads, but any type will work. 

It can run off track power, or an on-board 12 volt battery. When running on the battery, it can do automatic point-to-point between any two points (for cleaning spurs and troublesome area) simply by putting a pair of magnets next to the track to trigger on-board reed switches. You can barely see the mount for the reed switch that hangs from the steps to get it low enough. This feature includes momentum and pause to save wear and tear the motors.





The pad "articulates" to follow the track and avoid the LGB turnout motors. You can see where the old one didn't.


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Chuck- Your right. Always a good idea to keep an eye on the LGB loco. I've heard of other people having the divot issue as well. I guess that some people swear by them and others swear at them!!! I generally watch the loco as it cleans. It definitely has some navigation problems when it crosses over turnouts and rerailer sections. I use mine mostly at the beginning of the season when the track has been sitting under snow and gets oxidized. If I run trains on a regular basis, I can get away with an occasional sweep with the green pad on a drywall sander. If things sit too long, I put the LGB loco to work. There is also a bit of a learning curve with the LGB engine with regards to the speed control on top of the engine verses the speed of the spinning abrasive wheel. 


-Kevin.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

A agree DON'T use sandpaper you will scratch up the brass. 
I"m another that uses the green pad on a pole and it works really well. If you have stubborn dirt try squirting a bit of "goo gone" on the pad. If the grime is really bad I have used dish soap and water and dip the pad into the bucket and just go along with it. You will be surprised how much dirt comes off. 
Before the first run I will give thetrack the once over with the green pad to look for and remove sticks and acorns etc.. then on the first few runarounds I tow a Aristo track cleaning caboose. I also clean the pad on the caboose with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to keep it good and clean. 
If you are still having troubles check your engines wheels they are probably dirty. It is amazing how dirty the traack can be and the engine still runs well. 

Todd


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I put a green pad on my Aristo track cleaning car today. Cleaned up the track real well. Ran the Pioneer Zephyer for the first time in months. It's the only track power train I still have, but think I'll do the Shark with track power also.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you have grime, try what I found, which has made all the difference in the world to me, a Swiffer, and wet pads (not the dry pads)... thing was MADE to clean track! 

Greg


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

Chuck

I agree, most sandpaper can scratch brass track. I have also used 1000 grit wet-dry sand paper and I cannot see any scratches on my track, even under high power magnification.

I also use the long-pole method of track cleaning but I must say after 30 minutes of this effort, I am properly wamred up for a mean game of shuffleboard.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Scotchbrite is all we use at the botanic. Sometimes guys will wrap one of those pink towels from the box around it.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I clean track with a pole sander, too. Since I use aluminum 250 track, I was very concerned that sandpaper was too coarse. I went to scotchbrite green or red and have used both. Green is less abrasive, but red can get gunk of the rail. 

One more vote for scotchbrite.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Scotchbrite seems to be the material of choice in Southern Arizona also


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## avlisk (Apr 27, 2012)

I just bought my first track-cleaning car, the Bridge Master one that comes with a maroon Scotchbrite pad. It did a great job of cleaning the used track I included in my new layout in Phoenix. I've just been reading that the green Scotchbrite pads are better because they don't scratch the rails as much as the maroon. I will switch over to the green. But the car is wonderfully designed and constructed. I'd buy it again in a second if I needed another one, but it will probably easily outlive me. 
Ken S.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Cut a slot in the other end of it so you can put it between the loco and a sweeper car... 

(you don't have a sweeper car??? ) 

Greg


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Pole sander with drywall screen (finest mesh), works great! Track cleaning car (homemade), drags the same behind a battery powered loco. Took the gears out of two different Bachmann Big Haulers with this setup. All track cleaning methods retired many years ago.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So, it's many years since you cleaned track? 

Over time, the sandpaper wears and flattens the rail head. How much depends on how long you have been doing it, and how often, etc. 

I try to use the least aggressive means to remove oxidation. 

I've used the pole sander and it is aggressive... fast, easy, and takes too much metal in my opinion. Last resort when I help someone with brass track. 

So, since it's many years since you have cleaned track, exactly how many years were you track powered with an outside layout using a pole sander?

Just curious as to real data on long term effects.

Greg


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

I maintained track power and the associated cleaning regiment for 9-10 years, on brass LGB track, on a daily basis in the warm months. I don't remember exactly, but probably the first 5 or 6 years I used the red grade synthetic steel wool pads ( a little more agressive than the green, if I remember right). Then I switched to the drywall sanding screen,which I had always thought would be way too agressive. However, I would never change the screen. After several uses, it would wear down, yet was still quite effective and much easier to use than the synthetic steel wool. I've never seen any degradation of the rail.

I now clean my track once a year, if I think about it. There's really nothing to clean, other than grit from the ballast. Of course I do inspect and clear the track of debris prior to every run.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, I have used "worn out" drywall sandpaper, and that is much less aggressive when worn. Basically you are scrubbing with a piece of fiberglas screen... it actually works ok, as long as the pad behind it has a bit of "give"... 

With the additional information about getting it worn down, now I see what you are talking about and I have experienced the same issue... 

I would suspect your track may just need occasional clearing of debris, or sap on the rails can be bad if you get a lot of it... 

Thanks for the further explanation Del. 

Greg


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