# 3D Printed Baldwin 0-4-0 1:20 scale



## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I have already begun a thread on the Live Steam forum covering most of the parts of this project. I decided that since the model shown above is not going to be Live Steam, I should start the thread on this project here. 
The cab, the wheels, the frame, the cylinders, the smoke box, the domes, and the stack in the image above have all been printed. Except for the frames and the wheels are parts are printed in White Strong Flexible material from Shapeways. The wheels and frame are printed in stainless steel.
All the parts above have been primed and some are finished painted. 
I am expecting a few more parts and have some parts that were already printed that have not been finish primed yet.
I was thinking of installing an electric motor in this model, but decided against it because I have 3 electrics and I never run them. This model will just be a static run that I can use to test the movements of the running gear before I move on to printing out the Live Steam parts in 7/8ths.


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## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

Very, very nice Sir,

Don.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Looks good mate. Love the wheels they turned out great. I was thinking of getting mine CNC cut. This looks like another option.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

How strong is printed metal? Having cast and soldered professionally, I can't wrap my mind around a cold stick... How do they do that?
John


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks all.
John, 
These wheels are as strong as cast iron. The process is called sintering. They first print out the model using a mixture of stainless steel and bronze in each layer and held together with an epoxy that burns away after the model is subjected to a 1500 F oven.
The heated model is then sintered with additional bronze that binds all the steel together. It is very hard to drill, but not impossible.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks for the explanation, I can 'see' the particles fusing under heat.
John


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Was the cab printed as one unit or in parts?


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## peter_m (Aug 10, 2014)

That looks really nice, especially the cab
Are the handrails on the cab also printed?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Scott,
The cab was printed as one piece. No assembly required. In retrospect I will be redesigning the cab 3D file so the windows are printed out side their tracks and off their hinges. That way the sliders will work and the hinged windows will work too. The current file fuses those parts together in White strong material but it should allow them to move in the Frosted Ultra Detailed material.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Cool. Printed like that will give the cab additional structural strength. This is a huge bonus with 3d prints - changes can be effectively and rapidly made to suit your needs.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Work progresses on the Johnson bar. Unfortunately the model had to be orinted in a way that the most exposed side (shown above) has the worse detail. I will slowly sand and fill in the areas till it looks right.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Some more parts being worked on.


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## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

By any chance will you be offering any/all of your loke parts for sale? I think they are really nice and would be great building fodder.
Have a great day,

Don


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

For the 1:20.32 scale parts you can go here

http://scalehumans.com/info?NGF+part
I would hold off though if you intend to build the whole engine. I am having parts printed as I type and using them to assemble the engine at the begining of this thread. I will make adjustments to the parts that need to fit better.

http://scalehumans.com/info?NGF+part


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I will also create kits when I have enough platform space for doing that.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Nice details with the parts, look forwards to seeing those kits. I too am developing prototypes in 1:24.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Scott the great thing about 3D is a few clicks of the mouse and it can become a 1:32 scale model, an HO scale model or an O scale model


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

100% agreed. What did you use to remove the printing marks on the cab? I'm now using Smooth-ons XTC-3D to prep the surface prior to painting.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

wow ron, its gorgeous!
one of my favorie locos, and your details really make it "real"

i too would be one for a complete kit, hopefully with powering options


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Scott,
Oddly enough, I only used primer. The White Strong Flexible material at shapeways is very porous and very absorbent but once you quench it's thirst the primer levels out. 
I give it 4 liberal coats of primer and let it dry for 24 hours. I do not sand between each coat.
The next day I sand untill I can almost see the material peaking through, then I stop, add another 3 light coats of primer and repeat the process the next day. 
At this point the primer acts like a leveler. I sand this coat with finer grit sand paper starting with 220 and ending with 800. If there are still a few pores left, I don't worry about it. I just move on to the finish coats. 
The first finish coats I apply 2 coats without sanding and come back the next day and sand. Depending on how well I paint I use fine grit paper, usually 500 or the equivalent soft sanding pad. I like these pads better than paper because you can wash them out and use them over again. They're also great for wet sanding, but I haven't tried to wet sand the parts because they are not water proof I am told.
The paint and the primer provide the leveling of the surface on the Strong Flexible material both Black and White as well as the frosted ultra detailed materials. The stainless steel is another story.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

stevedenver said:


> wow ron, its gorgeous!
> one of my favorie locos, and your details really make it "real"
> 
> i too would be one for a complete kit, hopefully with powering options


Shapeways only does prints, so the power train would be something you need to supply. 
For the 7/8ths I am using live steam, but I can't print out the boiler, and printing out the cylinders is proofing to be too stressful on my budget. 
For the 1:20.32 scale the firebox, smoke box and the boiler and tank are all hollow which should provide more than enough space for a motor. I had thought of using one of my spare driver trains from an old HO loco hooked up to the back driver, but I do not want to spoil the look. I also never run my electrics, so I didn't see the point in it.
Although, if I do a kit, I may be more into exploring the possibilities of power. 
One of two options I decided was a separate powered car, possibly a passenger car, that actually pushes the loco. That way I wouldn't have a driver train spoiling the details under the boiler.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Painted the cab and put on roofing material. I also mounted the head lamp.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I thought this might make an interesting view for those interested in printed stainless steel parts.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/i6Px6RSL9Ac


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Got my first casting from Shapeways. I was a little concerned about the size. The materials guidelines say nothing about accuracy nor do they instruct users to increase the size of the model to compensate for shrinkage, but I guess they took all that in to consideration. This model is spot on correct.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I decided to print out more of the model and put parts I made on the shelf for future projects. With the above part and the one below.








This will bring the percentage of printed parts to fabricated parts to 98%. I can call this a 3D printed model.


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## daveyb (Feb 28, 2009)

its amazing how the 3d printing field is moving on,,,,, even to make patterns for casting

i must start learning how to do it,,,,


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

3D printing is great. I have been working on creating items for the past couple of years and refining the process each time. This is a great way to augment our modelling abilities.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I just got my 3D printed water tank and boiler combo. It really turned out sweet. It is way over engineered so I need to modify it a little to help make the costs more reasonable.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I got the print of the whistle and pop valve assembly. It was printed in Frosted Extreme detail and is perfect, but I wish it was in brass. Although this whistle passed the initial tests for brass, it did not pass the project manager tests 
I also recieved my engineer.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I weathered the whistle a little and then started on finishing up some other details.








I started finishing up some of the cab details. 








I remounted the head lamp using some small 1.0 mm hex head bolts. I realize now that I will have to redesign this print to provide some predrilled holes for mounting. I also want to add more detail to the stand, like the dragon design I have on the 3D version.








I also made a little fasterner for the bottom of the cylinder assembly. This will clamp the assembly to the frame preventing it from moving around once the 1/4-20 x 2 inch machine screw is tightened.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Was the whistle printed as one piece or individual pieces and assembled with glue/solder/bailing wire/bubble gum/spit and best hopes?

Was it or were the parts printed laying down or standing up?

What is the diameter of the pipe?

How big is the hole in the end of the whistle lever? Was it printed as a hole or drilled later?

What is the height and depth of the embossed lettering on the whistle lever?

How strong are the parts? Will they survive normal handling?

Is that metal or plastic? Will it withstand being in the sun for hours and hours or would that result in a puddle under where it used to be? Will the lever remain standing up or eventually be pointing down to one side?

I have an ulterior motive in asking these questions as I have something I want to have printed and I cannot find answers of what "detail" and "fine detail" REALLY mean. What is the smallest/thinnest strip of material that can be printed and have any strength to it?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow,,, lots of questions.
Printed as one piece. The pipe is about 1/16" in ciameter. I do not know the size of the hole it was printed with the piece. I don't know the depth of the lettering, I embossed it to a dept that I thought looked good.
here is a link to the whistel with over all dimensions.
It was printed in Frosted Extreme Detail material. I tried having it done in brass, but they rejected it even though it passed initial tests.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/D...-pop-valves?li=shop-results&optionId=57269124


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Richard, I'm continuing to enjoy your amazing work!
I noticed the lettering on your whistle lever, wow, nice touch.
Cliff


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

thanks Cliff.








I decided to add some more detail on the head lamp. This matches the 3D render closer.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I commissioned Stan Cedarcliff to print new decals on his decal printer so that I could get more vibrant color. He did one color pass over a double underlay of white. The improvement was noticable as soon as the decals hit the water. The decals I printed turned translucent when soaked in water, Stan's was not effected at all. I am confident that there will be little to no effect on the color once I apply a clear coat.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I finished painting the Engineer for Kauila yesterday. Unfortunately I mistakenly selected FUD for printing instead of FXD so the detail level is not as high and I had a little cleaning to do before painting.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard;

Wow! That guy sure gets around. He was running a 7/8ths scale whimsical "D cell" locomotive just a few years ago. He was badly in need of a haircut back then. Glad to see the old topper got nicely trimmed.



















I'm really enjoying your build.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Richard, awesome Einstein!

David, awesome Einstein as well! Although, in the first pic, he reminded me of Michael Jackson with long flowing gray hair. 

Probably just me. Wonderful work as usual David.

Great figures guys!

CJ


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I decided to really see how far I can go with prints. I'm prining these builder plates out in FXD. They won't print in raw brass. I'm also working on the number plate.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

It can be printed in FXD, but I think I'm going to try it in brass. What the heck they can just reject it if they don't want to print it


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Attractive little loco shaping up there. 
I wouldn't lose any sleep over the less sharp detail on the figure, that fellow looks sharp enough to figure out who he is at most any resolution.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks on30gn15.
The decal color made it through the clear coat. To be safe I used Stan's recommended Krylon Clear Matt finish 1311. Absolutely no color loss, well worth the money.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job Rick!! Fabulous little model!


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Love the progress on your project, sure is a winner. How well does the loco run?


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

rkapuaala said:


> To be safe I used Stan's recommended Krylon Clear Matt finish 1311. Absolutely no color loss, well worth the money.


 Ahh, appreciate that, note made.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Scott,
It's what we used to call a dummy engine in HO. The detail is too fine to include a motor and gear. My main goal was to make as an accurate a model as I could given the amount of data I had acquired over the years regarding Kauila.
I'm not much of an electric engine fan and this model was too small to do in live steam. I thought I made make a motorized 3D class car to push the engine along, but like I said I enjoy running live steam so I'm just going to build a 7/8ths scale live steam version at 2.5" gauge which works out to a little over 34.5 inches. I'll be shy a scale inch and half but it will be less noticible had I gone with 3" gauge or 1 3/4 (G) gauge. 
I will sacrifice detail to make the 7/8ths version run. My main goal on that model will be to have a smooth running engine that is exactly the correct proportions for the prototyp although I will have to sacrifice things like back head detail and cab detail to accomodate the equipment I need to run my live steamer successfully.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Ok, cool - so this is the test piece before going the next step? 

My V class loco may not get all the electronics into it for wireless control, so a water gin (tender) may have to carry the extra bits coupled to it.

It seems we are travelling along same lines, albeit with different models.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Will this be a kit?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I've already got parts available on my website under 3D printed parts. I don't want to get into production work any more as it detracts from my other interests.
I will try to organize the 3D prints into printable parts of a complete kits with instructions available on my website with the number and links to the 3D printed kit parts needed to complete the model.
First I want to make sure they all fit together and make any necessary modifcations that make assembly more stream lined.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Ran into a little snag this morning. I found out my eccentric blades were 1/8" too long. I'm not sure how that happened. It is definately my fault and not shapeways as I just opened the model and compared the dimensions.
The trouble with having them that long is this 1:20.32 scale model is very tight between the various parts of the frames. As the image shows if I won't be able to put the engine in reverse with the current dimensions because the crosshead saddle is blocking the D-blocks from rising. 
Instead of printing out a revised model I'll just chop the existing ones and sister a new blad on that is the correct length. 
The D-block radius was set for the center of the rear axle and the center of rocker arm pivot, so even if I could throw it in reverse I think there might be a little binding going on.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

As I said, clearances are tight and today I dealt with a clearance issue on the fireman's side of the engine. Coincidentally it gave me an opportunity to fix a mistake I made in the design.
The image above has two inserts. The insert to your right is the original image I was using to design the saddles. I didn't have a clear view of the fireman's side of the saddles so I mistakenly made both sides the same thinking that they must be symmetrical.
The insert image to your left is and image I received from my friends at the Railway Society. It shows the fireman's side. Unfortunately by the time I got this image the saddles were already fabricated, painted and installed. I knew about the discrepancy but my woodworking mind told me not to worry that 1/64" would be fine. NOT!
As the wheels spin there is about 1/64" clearance between the hub and the journal on both sides. So the wheel has a little side to side travel. So does the crossheads and so do the piston rods. About one out of 4 revolutions the various clearance will align just right to where the crankpin hit the crossheads and stopped the wheels from turning.
My solution was to extend the saddle out so it ran perfectly square with cylinders. This allowed me to also fix the saddle so that the fireman's side is now square.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I got the couplers, the number plate, and the builders plates yesterday, and I attached the builder's plates and number plate to the smoke box this morning. The coupler needs to be polished, but I'm going to wait till after I get some HONEY DO projects out of the way.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I re-engineered the main connecting rods and had them printed a couple of weeks ago. I've been polishing them up before I drill the hole for the cross head. It's been hectic around the house since my son and his daughter have come to live with us. I've been busy trying to make adjustments to my work and living space to facilitate domestic harmony


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Got my SE domes printed in stainless steel. They arrived this evening. They look rough but experience tells me the smooth out just fine


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Excellent work, you've given me the inspiration to follow your lead and produce printed driver components for my loco. Look forwards to see how they handle with a operating loco drive.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I painted the steam dome yesterday. 5 coats of primer. I only had white primer so I did one finish coat so I could easily see the registration marks. There were very few so I did 5 final coats of finish and the dome is waiting for a final smooth sanding, it's number 6 decal and some clear coat.


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## jbwilcox (Jan 2, 2008)

This is truly amazing! I have no understanding of how you can print parts for an engine. 

What do these printers look like? Is the metal in liquid form when you start and if so, there must be tremendous amounts of heat involved.

How much do these printers cost? Can they fit on a desk? 

How much does it cost to do this? If you wouldn't mind, how much is it costing to print this engine?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

JB check the beginning of the thread, the process is described. I'm not sure which printers shapeways uses, so I don't know exactly what they look like. They cost 137 USD for a 7/8ths steam dome and sand dome. 
I haven't tallied up the costs yet but I will at the conclusion of the thread. It will be cheaper to build one from scratch using conventional mill and lathe techniques, but it wouldn't be as accurate and all the parts would be one offs. Doing in 3D means that I can duplicate any part of the engine any time I need to do it.
A significant amount of the 7/8ths will be fabricated the traditional way, but I wanted to print the plastic version in 1:20th scale first and the bigger parts when I have the money and I know they fit and look right. So the 1:20 scale is my practice run for a live steamer in 7/8ths.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Progress on 3D Kauila. The side rods have been installed, the eccentrics are on there axles and are working. I tested the engine out by pushing it down a length of track and there is no binding or the running gear. The only issue is that the D block on the eccentrics is jammed into reverse because the bolts to connnect the eccentric blades cannont pass the valve cam axle. Considering it was only intended to be a static model, I'm okay with that. Very few people will notice that it should running in reverse.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

It's not completely done, but it is done enough for me to put it aside and finish some other projects. The only thing left is glazing the cab, building the hand brakes and installing the smoke box struts. My attempts at finding any plans or photos of actual baldwin hand brakes have failed so far and I can't really progress with out one or the other.


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