# Cutting off fence posts -- what tool?



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

We had an old kennel in our yard, which I am trying to get rid of. I already removed the chainlink fencing, leaving only the galvanized steel posts. Those are set into a concrete pad. I'd like to cut them off flush with the surface of the concrete. What tool do I need for this job, and would it be better to rent it or buy it?


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

A hacksaw will do it. Or if you have a reciprocating saw...use that. In both case...you'll need a metal cutting blade....several maybe.

Me...I have a tractor jack...and I just pull the whole concrete foot up and out of the ground.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Easiest?... if you know how to use one, an acetylene cutting torch. Otherwise, your best bet is one of those hand held mini bandsaws. Check with your local tool rental joint. They are about $35/day here.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

I have removed many. Like Mike said, a decent reciprocating saw (Sawzall) will make quick work of it. You can pick up a decent one for around $100 or rent one easily. You'll need 6 inch coarse metal cutting blades to go with it. 

-Brian


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## coyote97 (Apr 5, 2009)

an angle grinder with a cutting pad (the thinner ones).
And you can make it perfect with using a thicker pad to make it all even.

Hacksaw, no doubt, will make it. But are u a masochist????











Frank


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Masochist....well, I've met Ray once...at his house...and I gotta tell ya, when you see his railroad...and all the REAL rock on it, that word could fit. It's an astounding layout...vertical like you can't believe...and all real rock.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I'd use a sawzall with the apropriate metal cutting blade. A six-inch blade will work but a longer blade will prove easier and allow you to control the sawzall much better. Don't be afraid to bend the blade on its flat side. You'll need several blades unless you master the saw and technique quickly. Buy quality bi-metal blades probably around a 9" x 14tpi will work nicely. 

A torch effort will require clean-up with a grinder and is dangerous close to concrete not to mention the fire hazard. 

Utilizing a thin made for cutting abrasive wheel with a side grinder is VERY dangerous in my opnion. These cutting discs work great but are fragile and known to be easily damaged, eye protection is a must with some due diligence respecting the spinning disics travel arc. 

Michael


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

A neighbor once used the neighborhood boys, but his posts weren't set in concrete. It was kindof fun, but they can really stick in.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry gents, IMO a Sawzall is a poor choice for this particular job.... unless you desire to leave a 1" stub to trip over or grind off. A torch can cut flush and there's not much danger and little cleanup, IF you have a clue what you're doing. If you don't, then the portable bandsaw will cut nearly flush, not shake the crap out of your shoulders when it grabs or pinches, and cut twice as fast because there is no wasted motion. If you've never used one, you wouldn't know what you're missing.

Millwaukee, from $199 on Amazon, or like I said, $35/day to rent. 












http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005OBDR...e=380333&creativeASIN=B00005OBDR&linkCode=asn


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

I dunno Allen. I've used a sawzall for this specific task...and it works fine. You need longer blade...but you just lay the blade on the ground and flex it a bit, it cuts just fine...and it cuts pretty flush too.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mik on 07 Jan 2010 10:10 AM 
Sorry gents, IMO a Sawzall is a poor choice for this particular job....


Well, I will let those couple of hundred posts I have cut down with my trusty 12 yr old Dewalt recip. saw that I did a lousy job of cutting them down!








Seriously, any remaining stub is easily pounded in with a 4 or 10# hammer. It helps to cover up the remaining hole too.

-Brian


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

All fine tools, but my mind would be made by what I already own...a sawzall. 

Flush cutting is easy enough with the above mentioned blade bending and an occasional shot of WD40, reduces any grabbing, and patience, let the saw do the cutting. 

John

edit; A small piece of shirt cardboard under the tip of the blade should help protect the crete side of the blade. Depending on the finnish of your slab, it should slide with the blade.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Rent some acetyline tanks and oxygen and use a cut-off torch! No muss. No fuss. Maybe a little overkill, but it'll get it done.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, you can use a Sawzall and get the job done. You can also use a screwdriver for a cold chisel, or a crescent wrench as a hammer if you want to, and even a cutting torch to light your pipe or cigar (Did all that before, and if push comes to shove I will again). BUT I'll stand by my two suggestions as BEST the choices of the proper tools for doing the job as described. No more, no less.


To REALLY do a 'proper' job, the absolute best choice would be to dig the bloody things out concrete and all. Easy and fun with one of those mini excavators ... a royal pita with a slice bar and idiot stick.


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## jamarti (Jan 2, 2008)

I re-read the original post. It appears to be an old kennel. There is no information on how many posts need to be cut off. There is no information on the diameter or wall thickness. If you had a recip saw and the right blade I know I could cut a dozen posts before one could drive to the rental store, fill out the rental form, run your credit card and drive back home. And if you "kink" the motorized hack-saw blade, "oops" there might be an extra $$. 

I see the request was to flush cut with the existing concrete pad. There is no way to do a "flush" cut with the portable bandsaw. There will be close to a half inch stub left over. Recipricating saw and a few blades are the way to go. A flush cut it very possible.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Sawzall. Should be on in every man's tool arsenal. Right there with the cordless drill/driver. 

If that does not get it, then a cutting torch.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Like most of the others here, I would reach for my reciprocating saw ("Sawzall ® by Milwaukee Tools). The portable bandsaw won't cut flush to the ground, and cutting galvanized steel with a torch exposes you to zinc oxide fumes which can lead to a sickness known as "metal fume fever". You can get a cheapy recipro saw from Harbor Freight for $40 or a lot less than that when they are on sale - it will last you long enough to get your job done (if it doesn't, it will still be under warranty).


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I remove fence posts by pulling them out of the ground! And I ain't NO "He-Man", I am a fat weakling!

The first time I pulled one, I got all set with a chain and lever and when I stepped on the end of the lever I nearly fell over and almost launched the post into the air! The second one, I just gripped with my hands and pulled it out. Most of the others required the use of the lever, but several were simple "hand pulls"!


Wrap a chain around the post down low and connect the chain to the end of a long lever (with the fulcrum right at the base of the post). I have used a 6-ft 4x4 post as the lever and a 4x4 laying flat on the ground next to the post as the fulcrum. If the post does not dislodge the dirt over the concrete it is in (or if the post does not just come loose from the concrete) you may have to reposition the chain connection to the post to work the lever one or two more times.

A car "Bumper Jack" can also be used if you don't have a lever.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

I agree with Frank, a side grinder with a .060 abrasive cutting wheel will make quick work of the pipe. You should be able to cut almost perfectly flush with the top of the concrete. 

Jim, you are absolutely correct about cutting galvanized pipe (or anything else galvanized) with a torch. The real issue is a form of lead poisoning from the lead mixed with the zinc. The fumes will attack your lungs and make you sick as a dog. You actually turn yellow from it. I don't recommend torches. 

As for the portable band saw and reciprocating saw, neither will get as close to the ground as the side grinder. I picked up a cheap Chinese knockoff side grinder at what used to be Northern Handyman (Northern Tool) in Knoxville TN for $20.00 fifteen years ago and it has cut literally tons of steel that way, from 16 ga to C8x11.5 structural channel. My advice - go for the grinder. 

Bob C.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By Mike Reilley on 06 Jan 2010 11:45 PM 
Masochist....well, I've met Ray once...at his house...and I gotta tell ya, when you see his railroad...and all the REAL rock on it, that word could fit. It's an astounding layout...vertical like you can't believe...and all real rock. 



LOL!! And I'm currently adding more.


Looks like either the angle cutter (aka side grinder) or the sawzall would be my best for a quick, close cut.


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## barnmichael (Jan 2, 2008)

First, I recommend removing the whole thing. I can just about guarantee that somewhere down the line, those concrete lumps will catch up and bite you in the backside. It is much easier to remove the whole thing with the full length of the post. If you can get your vehicle to the location, I just wrap a chain around the base of the post a few times, hook it to the trailer hitch, and pull it out. If you can't get the vehicle there, you can use a tractor/farm jack or you can use a come-along hooked to a good anchor point. 

I would strongly discourage using a torch to cut it off. Using a torch on galvanized pipe releases very nasty toxic fumes. Not good for you or the environment. 

As others have said, if you're going to cut it off, IMHO, a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) is the tool of choice. Properly used, you can get the job done safely, quickly and have the best results. Every man should own a reciprocating saw. Here's your excuse to buy one  

My $.0002


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Can't remove the whole thing, the posts are set into a concrete slab and I want to keep the slab. I'm hoping to put a small shed there.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Hard to break the saw blade, grinding wheels shatter.... wear your body armour!


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

We cut metal tubing, pipe and the like day in and day out, so I have lots of experience with same. We have torches, reciprocating saws, portable band saws, grinders, abrasive saws and whatever else that makes sense. In my opinion the most economical, safest and fastest method without question will be a reciprocating saw (sawzall). I could cut a typical 2" galvanized schedule 40 pipe flush on a concrete slab in 20-30 seconds with a quality reciprocating saw. The slab in of itself is not a concern; in fact it makes a great guide. 

Fence posts are typically tubing, 16-10 gauge, probably the most common size used 1 5/8” dia.. Ray originally suggested the posts were set in a concrete slab, not footings, so pulling them out is not likely…

Michael


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

An angle grinder with a cut off disc has always been my tool of choice. Never had to wear body armour! But then I guess it is how comfortable you are with
your chosen tool.
Rod F.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray, I'll add my 2 cents...

I'd use a sawzall or an angle grinder then use a small 5# sledge hammer to peen the stub back into the concrete base to prevent cuts from the sharp edges left from the cutting.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

All this just to cut a few post???


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

C 4 guys You need C 4. That will get rid of the pip and the concrete. Then you can use the craters as open pit mines which could a industry for your RR


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## 2footdrive (Jun 4, 2009)

Maybe it's just me, but I have never had a cutting disk break on me using my 4.5 angle grinder! Might it be that I only use high quaility disks? or that I let the tool do the cutting? Or is it that I wear gloves and a pair of goggles? Or is it that I have just lucky and it has not happened yet. Of course I do have some experince with exploding disks but they have always Dremal tools.

Now for the posts that you need removed the grinder will take a few mintutes each and leave it almost flush with the concrete, changing to a grinding disk and it will be flushed. Oh ys I do like the sparks.

Dan


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Angle grinder is the way to go. Cuts fast. and yes I have also seen Rays layout up and close and watched his construction of the RR hauling all thoise big rocks in by hand. got them from rock slides along the inter state highways. Later RJD


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I'm not going beat this horse anymore, but I'll offer this. Angle grinders especially those fitted with cutting wheels verses grinding wheels are said to be the most dangerous tool available in the "do it yourselfers" arsenal. Angle grinders are the third or fourth most dangerous tool in play with regard to the list of "most dangerous tools". Be careful and use the correct cutting or grinding wheel for the job at hand. 

Grinding wheels are not designed for cutting nor are cutting wheels to be used for grinding. 

I can't imagine using one of these things without proper hand, body or eye protection............ Do a Google search, numerous studies, data compilations and more suggesting these things are dangerous if not fatal if improperly used, the operator is complacent or not properly trained and or simply unlucky. The very nature of brittle disc spinning at speed invites failure with spurious contact with metallic objects. Some cutting efforts are more likely than others to shatter the disc; tubing is right at the top of the list. 

Michael


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

What ever you use be sure to wear your safety glasses! 

-Brian


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Michael, 

So are skill saws, saber saws, band saws (vertical and horizontal), table saws, radial arm saws, planers, joiners, etc. Any power tool not given the correct respect has the potential to be a serious hazard to the operator. Simply put, use the proper tool for the job at hand. 

Bob C.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

REALLY dumb suggestion. If you're just gonna build a shed on the pad, why not lag screw 2x4s to the stupid posts and use them to start your framing???


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Mik, it's not a dumb suggestion... however, the posts aren't in the right place. One is in the middle of where I want to put the shed, and a couple others are not close enough for use as part of the shed, but are kind of in the way for access.


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## Jbcphotos (Oct 25, 2020)

I just encountered this same problem of having a postmaster stake in the way of something I was doing. A corded grinder with a metal cutting disc took about a minute. A very clean cut as well.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The posts were removed 10 years ago


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Yeah this one is kinda old, but what did Ray finally do to remove fence posts?

Michael


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