# Aluminum track in Arid zone



## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

In the Continental United states, the Climate is separated into an arid(dry) zone, and a humid(wet)zone where the humidity(amount of suspended water in air) changes dramadicly. I live in the black hills of SD and am in the Arid zone. I was wondering if I could use aluminum track with brass clamps in my garden railroad in the area that I live in. The surrounding area where I plan to construct the railroad is flat, away from my pets, enclosed by a fence to the outside world, and only my family and friends would really see it. However, I plan to run trains almost daily. * Is this combination of track and rail clamps satisfactory?* It will only be temporary until a larger railroad is built.

--JJWtrainman 
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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi JJW, 
I think your issue might become one of material incompatibility, in regards to galvanic corrosion. But others here far more knowledgeable than I will surely swing in, to correct or confirm the point. 
How temporary? 
===Cliff


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, greasing the joints liberally might help. There is a product called NoAlox (No Aluminum Oxidation) found in the electrical department of Loews, Menards, Home Depot that is specifically to help prevent aluminum oxidation in electrical joints. Without moisture, there is no galvanic action from a practical point of view. 

Might work. 

Make a small loop and try it is all I can say. Some people have success with aluminum some do not. No guarantees. 

Regards, Greg


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

I plan to have it up for 6 to 24 months an i just need something that is basic, 1-2 switches, 4ft diameter curves and small rolling stock and porter engines. as far as I know there are several materials that rail clamps are made of, nickel silver, brass, stainless, and aluminum.


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

thanks greg, the railroad i plan is just that, a loop of track and not much more. 
--JJWtrainman


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

For that length of time I would not worry at all, and use clamps of whatever composition you want. I'd still recommend the NoAlOx though. 

Regards, Greg


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

thanks again, later I plan to use stainless steel and a combination of track and battery power. But with aluminum, is it hard to keep clean in a dry climate like mine, or is it a piece of cake for maintaining?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Define terms first: 

Clean: remove dirt, twigs, tree sap, dead bugs - no more difficult for any rail type over another. 

Remove oxidation: remove insulating layer that forms on the surface as a result of oxygen in the atmosphere. It will oxidize quicker than any other rail type, you may have to run a sanding pole with scotchbrite, or maybe with fine sandpaper. 

This is what no one can tell you for sure. Every environment is different and no predicting. Depends on how often you run too. 

Like I said, no guarantees. 

Make up a small circle, just buy a little bit of track to make the smallest circle your loco will run on. Hook it up and see how much cleaning. 

The only track I can guarantee you don't have to remove oxide on is the Nickel-plated brass track from Train-Li, or Stainless Steel track. 

If you want guarantees, bite the bullet, buy the SS now and be done with it. 

Regards, Greg


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## R.W. Marty (Jan 2, 2008)

I just pulled up a large railroad that was all aluminum code 250 with a combination of brass and aluminum rail clamps. It was all track power and had been in continuous operation for at least the last 10 years. There was something in the clamps I assume that it was NoAlux, as Greg mentioned, I know they were damn hard to get apart. The climate here is wet winters, 30-40 inches of rain and long hot dry summers, 95-115 degrees. 

Myself, I used aluminum rail with track power in this climate for over 10 years with no problems at all, I cleaned the track with a sanding pole about twice a year. Don't run plastic wheels!!!! 

Good luck 
Rick


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

JJW 

My first layout in Virginia [definitely NOT the arid zone] used code 250 aluminum rail. I did not use clamps because AL expands more than brass rail. I actually used LGB brass joiners that I filed down so they would fit under the code 250 rail head. I did exactly what Greg recommended and filled the joiners with a dielectric grease called OX-Gard, normally used [at least in 1988] when you put AL wire into a breaker box. It kept all the water out of the joints for almost three years. Unless you like to watch the electrical arcs between oxidized AL rail and your power pickups at night, use a Scotchbrite pad on a drywall sanding pole to clean the track [another Greg recommendation] If you don't, you will be posting here in the future about the pitted wheels on your locomotives. 

When you rebuild with SS or NS or whatever, just save the AL for yard storage track. 

V/r


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

Ha, something I actually have a small amount of experience with, aluminum wiring. 

Our first house, which was built in about 1974, had aluminum wiring and you had to use the No-Alox type stuff at every outlet and switch in the house. Some of the outlets had probably not had any applied in twenty years, and when I took the outlets apart there was a black residue where the aluminum met the copper. Not too hard to fix, simply clean and apply the No-Alox goop, but talk about a pain. Aluminum wiring was apparently only allowed for a short time in the 1970's during a metals price jump. When we remodeled it was at the top of my list to be ripped out, I really enjoyed tearing that stuff out. 

I still have a bottle of the No-Alox type goop, and I can attest that it will eventually harden and attract dirt when used on stainless steel joiners. Why did I use some on stainless steel track when I first started? I don't know, it was in my electrical kit and I figured it would help with conductivity. It actually kind of looked like rust after a while, and for a bit I contemplated whether it would be worth the trouble to smear some on the sides of the rails. But I didn't. I did get to clean some joiners eventually. 

But I'd agree with Greg, that stuff seems necessary to promote a long-term conductive connection between aluminum and copper, or in this case, brass. If I were doing it in my damp climate I would seriously consider using jumpers, as much of a pain as that would be, and just rely on clamps and joiners to make the physical connection. However, in your dry climate the No-Alox goop might last a considerable time, especially on the interior of clamps. Worst case you get to clean the clamps out in a year or so is my guess. Good luck!


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Glad to see a fellow modeler in my area. I also am in the Black Hills. There are a few of us around. As for your question, sorry as Im just starting out I have no experience in what aluminum will do. 

However, I have recently gotten to know a few fellow garden railroaders in our area. We are all working on an HO layout at the Railroad museum in Hill City. Contact Rick Mills to see when we will be there working and stop in, I or one of the others might be able to answer some questions.


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Actually, I work at the SDSRM and am currently volunteering to help with an indoor modular layout.


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Thanks everyone, I found a place on the internet that is selling AL track for $35 per 12 pieces. I feel that even if it is a mistake to use Aluminum, atleast it won't cost me a large amount. the loop I plan to build is only 5X10ft and is as large a temporary layout as I can fit in the space that is out of the way. 
--JJWtrainman


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