# Faux rivet strips



## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

Looking for strips of material with rivet bumps to apply to the edges to make them look like they were assembled by riveting. Plastic or metal. Micro-Mark has decal strips in HO &O gauge but they are too small. Any suggestions? Thanks, Gary


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

Hi Gary, Have a look at Archer surface details as they do decal rivets in various sizes Archer Surface Details 
Russell


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

ferroequinologist said:


> Hi Gary, Have a look at Archer surface details as they do decal rivets in various sizes Archer Surface Details
> Russell


That looks good, I think ill try some. Thanks, Gary


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Gary,
Dan Pantages might chime in here, as he was trying to find a way to simulate rivets.
I had in the past tried the Archer ones, and even though Archer suggested to me to try 'doing two layers' for thicker rivets, it did not work for me.
BUT it may work for you.
Someone told Dan, that he had used something like a comb to dip the tips into a glue and then apply to the model to get a nice straight line of dots.
I'll leave it to Dan to give any more details if he reads this.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Another method is to use a Pounce Wheel Tracing Wheel on .010 thick styrene and overlay on a subsiding. It takes a bit of practice to not damage the rivet detail with the solvent cement, but the effect is very good.

Here is a roof corner showing the rivet detail









I need to add that this technique is that of a fellow modeler, not my own.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

David Leech said:


> I had in the past tried the Archer ones,


Me too, but the depth didn't work for me.
I had some success printing rows of rivets on paper (I use Visio but any CAD program can do a straight row,) and then sticking/taping the paper to thin brass or styrene, in order to guide my punch.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

As David said a of mine friend uses a comb, actually a steel pet comb, which he dips in Titebond 3 glue (he puts the glue in a shallow tray he makes out of tinfoil) and then touches the surface of the model. He lets it dry and then paints over them. In his words "it takes practice". I haven't tried it but it sounds like it would work. Of course if you can get to the back side of the sheet you want rivet detail on just use a punch on the backside. Getting a straight line and evenly spaced is the hard part but using Pete's idea solves that problem. Using a CAD program you can draw straight lines, curved lines or any shape you could need.


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

You might try 1/2 sided 2 mm craft plastic beads, have to install each but once you get the hang of it you can really fly, they are a little large but once painted they don;t look that big, personally I like them bigger. Bill


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

I used a starwheel (Fabricstore)on metalducttape and ruler!


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

choochoowilly said:


> You might try 1/2 sided 2 mm craft plastic beads, have to install each but once you get the hang of it you can really fly, they are a little large but once painted they don;t look that big, personally I like them bigger. Bill


Those look great! Where do I get them?


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

Rufus said:


> Those look great! Where do I get them?


Where do you get those railing stand-off bolts?


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Ebay, they now have 1.5 mm which I couldn't find some time ago, but they would be awful hard to work with (Flat back Acrylic Rhinestones Round Loose Beads Mix Color 1.5mm 4mm 6m 8mm 10mm), 1000 Crystal Flat Back Resin Rhinestones Gems 60 colors, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6.5 ., as far as installing them, I mark where they are to go, then with a tooth pick dabbed in thick super glue I touch it to the marked spot just hard enough to leave a little glue and I do about 5 or 6 spots at this time there is very little glue left on the tooth pick but just enough to pick up 5 or 6 rivets. Might mention that before starting, to turn several beads to be used round side up. Then touch the top of a rivet picking it up with the tooth pick and place it on the spot of glue where you placed earlier. You will find that the spot of glue has gotten sticky from sitting and although the glue on the top of tip pf the tooth pick has also, that the spot is stickier than that the glue holding the bead. Touching the bead down on the spot will stick the bead too it and allow you to pull the tooth pick away but you still have a few seconds to reposition the bead if slightly out of place..
The railing standoffs as you call them are actually called stanchions and the ones shown on both the yellow are off a REA Aristocraft 2-4-2 Rogers, the ones on the red engine are the Bachmann ones you can buy them from Bachmann and they sell different lengths. the ones on the black engine are some I made years ago before parts were available and they are made with a 1/8' crush rivet with the mandrel removed and turned upside down and the installing a small cotter-pin to hold the had rail and when finished a small drop of glue sort of smooths every thing out, Hope this helps, Bill 

larger image
*Stanchion (Large K-27*

.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Rufus said:


> Where do you get those railing stand-off bolts?


You can buy brass "hand rail knobs" from Roundhouse Engineering in the UK quite cheaply.
Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd.


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

Pete Thornton said:


> You can buy brass "hand rail knobs" from Roundhouse Engineering in the UK quite cheaply.
> Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd.


Shipping from there is not done “cheaply”


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

choochoowilly said:


> Ebay, they now have 1.5 mm which I couldn't find some time ago, but they would be awful hard to work with (Flat back Acrylic Rhinestones Round Loose Beads Mix Color 1.5mm 4mm 6m 8mm 10mm), 1000 Crystal Flat Back Resin Rhinestones Gems 60 colors, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6.5 ., as far as installing them, I mark where they are to go, then with a tooth pick dabbed in thick super glue I touch it to the marked spot just hard enough to leave a little glue and I do about 5 or 6 spots at this time there is very little glue left on the tooth pick but just enough to pick up 5 or 6 rivets. Might mention that before starting, to turn several beads to be used round side up. Then touch the top of a rivet picking it up with the tooth pick and place it on the spot of glue where you placed earlier. You will find that the spot of glue has gotten sticky from sitting and although the glue on the top of tip pf the tooth pick has also, that the spot is stickier than that the glue holding the bead. Touching the bead down on the spot will stick the bead too it and allow you to pull the tooth pick away but you still have a few seconds to reposition the bead if slightly out of place..
> The railing standoffs as you call them are actually called stanchions and the ones shown on both the yellow are off a REA Aristocraft 2-4-2 Rogers, the ones on the red engine are the Bachmann ones you can buy them from Bachmann and they sell different lengths. the ones on the black engine are some I made years ago before parts were available and they are made with a 1/8' crush rivet with the mandrel removed and turned upside down and the installing a small cotter-pin to hold the had rail and when finished a small drop of glue sort of smooths every thing out, Hope this helps, Bill
> 
> larger image
> ...


👍 on that rivet hint! Stanchions too


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry taught me use a Pounce wheel on metal foil that has an adhesive on one side. You determine the height of the rivet with pressure.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

What does the pounce wheel look like and are these examples in 1/32 scale or smaller?
Russell


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Russell, this is what a Pounce wheel looks like, I didn't know either till Jerry told me. They come in different sizes so can be used for almost any scale you want. The Mail/Baggage car in my pic is about 1:24. The 'rise' on the dimple depends on your pressure and the mat under the item you are rolling it on. I also made rivets on .005 plastic, great for small panels where you don't have to feather the edges.


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

You can find pounce wheels in the sewing section of Michael's or Hobby Lobby. Just pick one of the size you want.


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## ferroequinologist (May 8, 2016)

Thanks, I'll go and get one and try it out.
Russell


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Rufus said:


> Shipping from there is not done “cheaply”


I think you'd be surprised. It's a very small package (costing a mere GBP5.13, or around $7 for a pack of 10.)


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Pete, but as Rusus points out it is often the shipping that costs much more than the product.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

The shippers are really destroying this hobby.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

David Leech said:


> it is often the shipping that costs much more than the product.


David, you still get some very nice brass handrail knobs for a total price that is reasonable. Do you not buy something because the shipping is too high, or do you add the prices and see if the total is acceptable?


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Pete Thornton said:


> David, you still get some very nice brass handrail knobs for a total price that is reasonable. Do you not buy something because the shipping is too high, or do you add the prices and see if the total is acceptable?


Pete,
I normally take the total and see if it's worth while.
The other day I tried to buy something from the States for $9.99 US.
The shipping quoted was $50, so at that total I decided not to proceed.
So, yes to both, the shipping was too high, and I added the total up to make a decision.
Cheers,
David


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## Rufus (Jun 26, 2018)

Yes, some of these parts are so small that they could be put in a small padded envelope with a stamp on it.


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