# LV Caboose.



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

I got a "painted undecorated" USA Trains "Northeastern" caboose! 
as a life-long LV fan, I just had to have one!
here she is, and she's a beauty! 






























USA trains does offer the caboose in a LV scheme:
http://www.usatrains.com/r12163.html
but its not one of my favorite LV schemes, that is a very "late" scheme, from the 1970's.
Im going to paint my model is a much older LV scheme..the original scheme for these cabooses!
the scheme the cabooses recieved when they built in Sayre between 1937 and 1946:










At first glance, when looking at the painted undecorated caboose, LV fans might think "that red is all wrong
for the LV, its far too "bright"..but recently other LV fans and I have worked out quite the history
of the "as built" LV caboose scheme, and the Red on the USA trains is perfect for that scheme!
(1937 was before Cornell Red even existed! 

check out the discussion thread here:
http://forums.railfan.net/forums.cg...1250014389
and check out this amazing movie, from the 1939-40 NY worlds fair, shot with Kodachrome film!
the LV caboose is at minute 2:28 
http://www.archive.org/details/medicus_1939_nywf_reel4_part3 

and here is a still from the movie:









So thats really a perfect red on the model! 

Here is what I plan to do, and some observations:

1. have decals custom made
2. new wheelsets (I dont like the large clunky flanges)
3. maybe tweak the truck sideframes, to make them a little more prototype-specific.

4. I think I want to make all new handrails..they seem overly thick (probably for model robustness, but still..)
Im going to model my cab after LV 95011, built in Sayre in 1941, and currently on display in Sayre:
http://www.trainweb.org/gggrs/95011/LVRR_Caboose_95011.html
Im going to visit 95011 again in a few weeks, and I will measure the handrails! 

5. technically there should be a small end-window on each end..but I dont think im going to add them.
only because the model is already painted..if it was unpainted I would probably cut the windows in,
but I dont think I will bother this time..not totally sure yet though.


6. add body-mount kadee couplers (I will probably wait for the new kadee #1 coupler to come out)
7. I found a mistake! a rather large one actually..although im probably the only person who would ever notice! 
the side windows should be SQUARE! USA trains made them rectangular. 
im going to see if perhaps some early Reading cabooses were actually built that way, but I dont think they were.
im pretty sure all the "Northeast" cabooses had square windows..not something I can change without destroying the paint,
so I will just live with it. otherwise the model is gorgeous! up to USA trains' normal standards of excellent detail and quality.
I just cant imagine how they got the window wrong though, especially considering at least a hundred of these cabooses are preserved all
over the North East.

8. I will try some light weathering..I havent weathered a model since my HO scale days as a teenager back in the 80's, 
so its time to attempt to redevelop this skill..

9. One paint scheme detail that hasnt been worked out yet..we know the first batch of LV cabs, built in 1837, definately had all-red bodies,
including the roof! later variations on this scheme had a black roof..I dont yet know if my specific prototype, LV 95011, built in 1941,
had a red roof or a black roof when new! We dont yet know if some cabs recieved a black roof when new, or if the black roofs were later
additions.

10. LV drip strips! over the side windows..a LV-specific feature, which readily identifies a LV Northeastern caboose, as opposed to a Reading or CNJ
or WM built caboose. but again, not all the LV cabs had them when new! (although all eventually recieved them)
some of the early LV cabs had stylish metal window shades! like this:










I like that look! although the drip-strips are a LV icon..and I dont yet know if "my" cab, 95011, was built new with the drip-strips or not.
thats another detail im sure of yet..not sure which way im going to go. (I would like to model 95011 in "as built" condition, not as she appears today)

I feel a connection to LV 95011, mainly because she is Sayre's own preserved LV caboose, built in Sayre, and also I was born in Sayre! 
my Dad was born in 1941, same year as 95011, and its likely one of my Grandfathers
helped build her, (my Grandpa Kremer worked in the Sayre Shops at that time) and my other grandfather probably rode in her on many occasions! 
(my Grandfather Lawrence was a LV trainman, and later a LV engineer) the LV, and Sayre, are in my blood! 

11. Im going to have to scratch-build new steps! the USA trains model is probably based on the original Reading design.
LV used a different style of steps (two styles)..im going to scratch build the "cast" LV steps, this style:
http://www.trainweb.org/gggrs/95011/DCP_0506.JPG

and I think thats everything!
I will post model updates as I work on it.

thanks,
Scot


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

From looking at the photos, I wonder if by adding the drip strips over the windows, you couldn't easily cut out the top bit of the window frame to make it appear a bit more square. The drip strip would then probably hide or at least add visual balance to make the windows look taller. The photo of 95053 gives me the visual impression they're a little squat, so things may work out on that front. A dab of red touch-up paint on the inside of the window frame wouldn't stick out bad at all. And if you're going to do that, you may as well cut in the end windows. Again, it's just a bit of touch-up paint on the inside edges and sash, which (a) is in shadow below the roof, and (b) is inset from the body so a slight difference in color would never really be noticeable. Besides, if you're going to do some light weathering, you can easily hide that with a bit of black grime. (I'm assuming that with the slogan "Route of the Black Diamonds," that a healthy coating of coal dust would be somewhat apropos.) 

I agree--the handrails are atrociously oversized, and the white paint just accentuates it. Smaller wire is definitely called for. I'd be tempted to rebuild the ladders out of brass, too. All depends on how OC you want to get on that end. I'm working on repainting an Accucraft caboose right now, whose end railings and ladders are similarly round (as opposed to flat), but I have the advantage of painting them black. The ladders in the black and white photos look to be darker (red?), so you may be able to take advantage of that. 

Looking forward to the progress! 

Later, 

K


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

I did a little research on LV cabooses for a web site I created in the 90's. I have not done any work on it since 2000 but it is still up. 

http://crcaboose.railfan.net/, the LV cars became Conrails N5G class. 

You pretty well covered most of the changes needed for a great model. Most of these cars had cushion underframes, the reason the hose hanging under the center of the car. It would be neat to model a working cushion underframe in this scale. I had an O scale boxcar that I built from a kit that had a working cushion underframe but I have not seen it done in large scale. 

An other item is the running boards, I believe some of the cars had diamond tread that was flat on the roof while others had a design that was spaced above the roof. I am not sure if the style of the running board was related to the roof paint color or not. 

I always like to hear why someone chooses to model specific item, thanks for the background.


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Scotty, I don't know if your particular prototype had the cushion underframe, but if it did, maybe you could get a hold of some parts from USA from their new boxcar series that has the operating cushion underframes.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin, 
maybe that could work..(your idea about the drip strips) I will check into that! 
yes, the windows on 95053 do look squat, but thats probably because of the sun shade!  
the windows are square to begin with, the shade makes the remaining portion of the window under the shade look rectangular.. 
if I went and added a sunshade to the model, it would be even *more* squat!   

Tom, 
thats your conrail caboose site? thats one of my favorite railfan sites!  
I have been using it, and referencing it, for years! 
thanks for a great resource! 

Jason, 
honestly, im not at all interested in modeling the cushion underframe! 
but only because I really dont know what it is!  
or what it looks like, or how its different than a "regular" frame.. 
its just something I have never looked into, or learned about.. 
maybe I will check into it! 

thanks, 
Scot


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

Scot, 

Thanks, I did the site when I was modeling Conrail in HO scale. It fell by the wayside when I made the switch to the narrow gauge big stuff. 

The cushion underframe was used to make the ride more comfortable by absorbing jolts from rough starts and slack run-in, etc... 

Some designs used springs and some were hydraulic. The coupler and draft gear could slide in a channel on the underframe cushioned by the springs. On the LV cars the trainlines were fixed to the moving part of the draft gear so a flexible hose was used to make the connection across the center of the car. This is the loop of hose you see hanging under the car in the middle. When starting the coupler pulls 'out' a little bit as the springs take up the load, on a stop the coupler moves 'in' a bit. IIRC travel is about 12". 


Look up 'duryea underframe'.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Scottychaos on 13 Aug 2010 05:35 AM 
yes, the windows on 95053 do look squat, but thats probably because of the sun shade!  
the windows are square to begin with, the shade makes the remaining portion of the window under the shade look rectangular.. 
if I went and added a sunshade to the model, it would be even *more* squat!   

I think the point was to add the sunshades _above_ the windows, so they cover the upper frame of the window rather than the top of the window opening. That would give the illusion that there's more to the window behind the sunshade, and it's the sunshade that makes the window look squat, just like on the prototype. For that matter, if you decide you absolutely need to have correct square windows, you could always cut or file the tops of the window openings to make them square, and the sunshade would help to hide the touch-up paint and any less-than-perfect file work.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By rwjenkins on 13 Aug 2010 12:38 PM 
Posted By Scottychaos on 13 Aug 2010 05:35 AM 
yes, the windows on 95053 do look squat, but thats probably because of the sun shade!  
the windows are square to begin with, the shade makes the remaining portion of the window under the shade look rectangular.. 
if I went and added a sunshade to the model, it would be even *more* squat!   



I think the point was to add the sunshades _above_ the windows, so they cover the upper frame of the window rather than the top of the window opening. 





Richard,
yes I know! 
but we are talking about two different "window treatments"..when Kevin said the windows look squat on 95053, he was referring to this photo:

and then I said they look squat because of the sun shade, but they are square in reality.

Kevin also refereed to the "drip strips", and suggested adding those might help with the retangular-looking windows
the drips strips are these:


completely different thing...they arent really sun shades, they are "gutters" for rain.
and they wouldnt really hide much though..because the top of the window is still visable under the drip strip..
so there isnt really a good solution..apart from actually physically opening up the window..

there is no such thing as a sun shade above the window, on the prototype cabooses..
so thats not really an option.

thanks,
Scot


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Got it, I was thinking he was calling the sunshades drip strips, rather than talking about two different things. I was thinking of the sunshades in the shot of 95053. I realize they didn't put sunshades above the windows on the prototype, but that was kind of my point - the idea is to give the illusion that the window goes higher than it actually does. Unless you duck down and look at it from underneath, you wouldn't really see that the window doesn't extend up behind it.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Ah, from the orignal photos, I thought the "drip strips" were the sunshades. I see the difficulties. Just get a can of red spray paint, cut the windows wider, and be done with it!  

Later, 

K


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Scot what about the marker lights and the hole they are mounted in?


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dick413 on 14 Aug 2010 08:54 AM 
Scot what about the marker lights and the hole they are mounted in? 


Dick,
the marker lights pop right off (they are just pressed on, not glued)
revealing a light bulb and a square hole..

I will probably remove the lights and fill in the hole..
I guess no matter what im going to have to find some red touch-up paint!
in that case, maybe I will just cut in the side windows afterall..

Scot


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

Scot, 

Do you have or have access to the August '82 RMC? There are a lot of photos and drawings of the LV cars. I can scan mine if needed. 

There was a series about the 'Northeastern' cabooses running for a few months.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By pinewoods on 16 Aug 2010 10:07 AM 
Scot, 

Do you have or have access to the August '82 RMC? There are a lot of photos and drawings of the LV cars. I can scan mine if needed. 

There was a series about the 'Northeastern' cabooses running for a few months. 



Tom,
I do have that issue! 
but thanks for the offer to scan! 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I might owe an apology to USA trains, 
I think I was wrong about the rectangular windows.. 

(I said that USA trains made the side windows slightly rectangular, and they should be perfectly square) 
its clear all the LV cabooses have square windows, but it appears some of the Reading cabooses might in fact have had the rectangular windows! 
(and USA probably designed their model after the Reading pattern, since they were the originator of the type) 

some Reading pics: 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/rdg/rdg92891afm.jpg 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/rdg/rdg92857ags.jpg 

http://www.hebners.net/cr/crN4/reading92837%3F-2.jpg 

Its hard to tell exactly from photos, but those do look slightly rectangular.. 
im going to measure a LV caboose this weekend, and I will see if I can get conformation from a Reading caboose 
on those windows, to put this all to rest once and for all. 

thanks, 
Scot


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks to me like the window openings in the side of the Reading cabooses are square (except the first one, which has obviously had its windows replaced at some point), but the window glass is rectangular because the window frame is thicker at the top and bottom than it is at the sides. I'm guessing that's probably the case with the LV caboose too. By taking your broadside shot of the USA caboose and counting pixels in PhotoShop on the window closest to the camera (second from the left), I get a window opening 34 pixels high and 39 pixels wide, not quite square, but not far off. Is it worth obsessing over? Probably not, remember these things didn't run on 4' 3-3/8" gauge track either!


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

I dont know if anyone really cares about this window issue!  
but since im taking measurements, I might as well record the results, for posterity. 

I measured two prototype LV cabooses this past weekend (LV 95113 in Groton, NY, on the way to Ron Brown's steamup) 
and the caboose im going to model, LV 95011, in Sayre, PA. 
One is phase 1, and one is phase II, and they have identical side window measurements, so I think its safe to conclude all LV cabooses 
had identical measurements, (apart from the end windows and other small details.) 

Here are some drawings and photos (im also going to record all this on a webpage) 




















And here is the gist of the "rectangular windows" issue: 

the prototype windows are *not* perfectly square afterall! so I was wrong about that. 
they measure 26" wide by 24" tall. 
but that is so close to square, that from a distance its hard to tell they are not square. 

The USA trains caboose clearly has rectangular windows..and they are *more* rectangular than the prototype. 
The USA trains caboose windows scale out to 26.5" wide (nearly correct for the prototype) 
but only 22.5" tall. (noticably shorter, in height, than the prototype.) 

So the windows on the model are in fact a bit too "squat".. 
1.5 inches too short.. 
thats 1.3mm on the model.. 
I dont think I will make the adjustment..I will probably just leave it, 
even though I would prefer to "fix" the windows.. 

some people will say "that difference is so tiny, you can barely tell!" 
other people (like me!  will say "wow..thats a large and noticable difference!" 
judge for yourself..open these two images in two different browser windows, 
then toggle between them: 

http://scotlawrence.smugmug.com/Other/LV-caboose/LVcabmeasure7a/979642272_MAoQW-O.jpg 

http://scotlawrence.smugmug.com/Other/LV-caboose/LVcabmeasure6a/979642306_Y4yXG-O.jpg 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

If anyone is interested, I measured the handrails on the prototype LV 95011 yesterday: 

they are 7/8 of an inch in diameter, 0.875" 
In 1/29 scale, that translates to 0.75mm 
(I model in millimeters, its just easier) 

The handrails on the USA trains caboose are 1.7 mm in diameter..over double the prototype width.. 
My caboose will definitely be getting new handrails.. 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

New scratch-built brass handrail (scale size) compared to stock USA trains handrail, (double scale thickness) 










I need to get 1/16 stryene rod to fill in the hole, paint red, drill new hole, paint and install new handrail.. 
repeat for every handrail on the caboose!  










Scot


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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

Scot, 

Welcome back to this project! 

The new handrails look good.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

What did you use for the handrails? You've got me convinced to replace all the handrails on my cabeese now! So the ladders are most like over thickness too because it seems they are the same thickness as the handrails. It's amazing how a simple change like that adds visually! 

Craig


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Craig, Im using .032" brass rod, K&S engineering, from my local craft shop.. 
thats .81mm..closest I could find to the .75mm I was looking for..*very* close!  

yes, im also planning to re-do the ladders.. 
I will leave the brake wheel stand alone probably.. 

Scot


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

That's pretty close. I've time I see scale width handrails or detail I keep wondering why USA trains seems to detail their cars much better then the loco's and cabooses. It seems, and I could be wrong, that the scale handrails, door latches are closer to scale on the boxcars, refeers etc then on the loco and cabooses. Have you noticed this too? I've never measured to see if I'm right or wrong. 
I think that the brake wheel stand will look out of scale after you complete the ladder and grabs. You might as well go for that too! I'm sure you planning on setting up a jig for the ladders? 

Craig


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)




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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

Scot, 

Neat idea. I use the wood and pry them up with a screwdriver.....similar idea with the same result. 

Craig, 

I agree with you up until the release of the 60' boxcars. Unfortunately, they have thickened the details on the new 60' boxcars. The stirrups and side and end ladders are oversized :-(


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Filling in the old handrail holes.. 
using 1.5mm styrene rod, cut to about 2.5mm long "plugs", 
using a tiny dab of superglue right in the hole, then insert the plugs, trying to press them down so they are "flush".. 
(a few im going to have to trim down a bit, but im getting better at it as I go along..) 



















Im still undecided if I want to keep the marker lamps.. 
on the one hand, they are way out of scale, and the prototype LV cabooses didnt have them, 
but on the other hand, they would look cool when lit.. 
Since im going to the effort to be as "scale" as possible with this model, I will probably remove them!  

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

If you decide you want to remove the marker lamps..the bulbs dont press back into the body, 
so you have to pull them out to snip the wires.. (they are small incandescent bulbs)

safety tip: dont grip the lightbulb with pliers to pull it out! 
even if you think to yourself "I will just hold the bulb lightly" 
ask me how I know!  
fortunately I had the sense enough to put on the safety glasses first..before the bulb shattered into a thousand microscopic shards.. 

for the other side, I pried up the bottom of the bulb with a small screwdriver, and placed a wad of toilet paper over the bulb 
as I pried it outward..it wont come out very far, but enough that you can snip the wires.. 
this bulb also broke, but not as dramatically as the first one..and the tissue paper caught all the glass. 

(you could also dissemble the body and reach them from the inside..but I didn't feel the need to go that far) 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Decision made, on the marker lamps: 










Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

gradual progress: 










Made the decision on which style of window treatment to go with, as you can see.. 
iim going for the full "original as-built" look, circa 1937. 
All LV caboose models have the angular drip strips, mine will be the first without them!  

Scot


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Hmm, going into its third year... I'm starting to feel a lot more normal about my passenger car projects that haven't been touched for two years.  

Lookin' sharp! 

Later, 

K


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing this done! I'd like to do the same to the handrails on one of my "northeastern" cabooses, but to be honest, I find had rails really difficult. Hoping you'll show me the way


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah..third year!








The garden railroad itself is also in super-slow mode! 
its just life though..the trains arent just on the "bottom burner"..the burner has basically been turned off for a few years!  

Got laid off from Kodak last March..im going back to college full-time! started in September.. 
(a 2-year program in Computer Networks! Cisco routers and such..) 
im in the middle of a three week "winter break" right now..which is the only reason any work is being done on the caboose at all! 
but oh well..life happens..there is no deadline for these kinds of things!  
good thing too.. 

I hope to get all the handrails made, painted and installed this winter. 
but because I was laid off from Kodak, I no longer have access to my beloved Adobe Photoshop! 
(that is the one thing I miss the most from Kodak!) 
which means I cant design my decals.. 
So..this project will be *completely* finished, including lettering, in...no idea when.. 
2 to 5 years maybe?  
I need to see if I can locate a computer with photoshop at school.. 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 02 Jan 2013 05:26 AM 
Looking forward to seeing this done! I'd like to do the same to the handrails on one of my "northeastern" cabooses, but to be honest, I find had rails really difficult. Hoping you'll show me the way



I'll make another video! 

Scot


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

For a free alternative to photoshop, have you tried Gimp? or "gimp shop," designed to be more photoshop like?


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)




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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks--that's close to what I do but I need to practice more. I was thinking of maybe making a template, but it's probably not necessary

You really should give GIMP a try as a photoshop substitute--free and open source, widely supported and it comes in a more photoshop like flavor, "gimpshop"

http://www.gimpshop.com/


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 03 Jan 2013 08:19 AM 
Thanks--that's close to what I do but I need to practice more. I was thinking of maybe making a template, but it's probably not necessary

You really should give GIMP a try as a photoshop substitute--free and open source, widely supported and it comes in a more photoshop like flavor, "gimpshop"

http://www.gimpshop.com/ 

I have used Gimp..dont much care for it.

I havent heard of "Gimp Shop" before though..thanks for the tip, I will check it out! 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)




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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice difference--very well done!


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Scot,
Probably too late but Tomar Industries makes a nice marker lamp. I have used them but replace the bulb with a led. G-807 or G-809.
 https://tomarindustries.com/gs.htm


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Paul Burch on 03 Jan 2013 02:58 PM 
Scot,
Probably too late but Tomar Industries makes a nice marker lamp. I have used them but replace the bulb with a led. G-807 or G-809.
 https://tomarindustries.com/gs.htm



Thanks Paul, those look really nice!

yeah, too late for me!  but not for others who might check out this thread in the future, and might want to add the marker lamps to their caboose..
although I could still make them work if I wanted to..the wires are still in there behind the plates..

Scot


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Scot, looks great! 

Paul, could you give a quick measurement on that marker, either the body or overall height? 

Hard to tell the size. 

Greg


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

All the handrails on the main body of the caboose are done! 
now all I have left are the end details..(and the decals..Stan, I will be in touch soon!  
im getting rid of everything on the ends except the brake wheel and its pedestal, 
everything else will be scratch built. 

The ladder above is scratch built from K&S "special shapes" brass flat bar, 1/64 x 3/32, for the ladder sides. 
and the rungs are the same .032" (.81mm) brass rod im using for all the railings. 
I cut the ladder sides first, taped them together, measured and drilled the holes, then decided to super-glue the rungs rather than solder them. 
I made a jig to hold it together while I adjusted and glued the rungs.. 

LV cabooses underwent a lot of changes and upgrades during their 30 to 40 year career on the LV, 
and most of the ends ended up like this: 









But im basing my caboose model on the "as built" configuration from 1937, which had a more simplified end.. 
im basing my model mostly on this photo: 










Which is believed to be late 30's or early 40's, and shows a caboose in "as built" condition, and original paint scheme.. 
but there arent a lot of good photos of LV cabooses that early..and I dont have any that show good end detail! 
So im basing the end platform detail for my model on this photo: 










Which is a modern photo of Steamtown's caboose in Scranton PA..they have "backdated" their caboose somewhat.. 
It might not be exact for original configuration, but its pretty close.. 
So I going to scratch-build, out of styrene, those three "posts" on the end.. 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

...


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Slowly but surely:










Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Went out to the craft store and got some tiny beads, to build the air thingy..(I dont know what it is! 
and I made an interesting discovery..the brake wheel broke off from this side of the caboose, so I glued it back on..
but the detail of the brake wheel is much better on the side that faces *inside* (which is not very visable)..
and the side that faces out (which is much more visible) is very plain..
So it looks a lot better if you glue on the brake wheel "backwards"! 
compare the wheel in this photo with the wheel in the previous post..(previous post shows the the way it comes from USA trains)

Scot


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Scottychaos on 19 Jul 2013 12:20 PM 

Went out to the craft store and got some tiny beads, to build the air thingy..(I dont know what it is! 

Scot

Scot,

That is a combination emergency brake handle and caboose whistle. It's connected directly into the trainline. A caboose whistle is a unique high pitched tone. 

Craig


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Scot,

Awesome caboose and very nice modeling.







The combo brake valve is a nice added detail.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I should add that a good brakeman and/or conductor could/can actually make a set on the train line through the caboose valve... A little trick that the old heads used to do when cabooses were common...


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Update! working on couplers.. 

One end of the caboose is going to the "display end".. 
the end not attached to the train, the end that will be the most visible.. 
On that end, I am body-mounting a "static" coupler, at prototype height.. 
I am planning to not use that coupler..it will be "display only".. 

Scratch-built a coupler box, from bits of scrap styrene, based on prototype photos: 



















attached and painted up..coupler is a Kadee 1901: 



















The other end is the "working end", and has a kadee truck-mounted to the stock USA coupler box.. 
(modified a bit to fit) 










next is finishing up the end details, new wheels, and im starting to design the decals.. 
Scot


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Nice work, Scot, but you best hurry or It won't be ready for the RIT Tiger Tracks show. 


-Kevin.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Kevin.. 
yeah, its not going to be ready!  
I work on it about 10 minutes a month.. 

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Scratchbuilding the coupler release bar out of brass: 










I know in more modern years, that coupler bar does not extend to both sides..only one side. 
but I cant tell from the "as built" photos, if it was on both sides or not..so I just went ahead and made 
it go to both sides..it will look good that way!  added detail on both sides.. 

annnd! the "display end" is done!  
(the end that is "for looks" only..with a coupler that is meant to be non-functioning.) 
just needs some light weathering.. 




























thanks, 
Scot


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Scot looks really nice, great, awesome..pick one.or not!!! 

I like RED... 

Did you try in the narrow gear box to still have a moving coupler? 
I have been rebuilding draft gear boxes to a narrower width for increased realism. The couplers still move also. 
You'd be amazed at how little movement is actually needed for cars to negotiate curves. 

I like RED!!!!!!! YA... 

Dirk


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dirk! 
No, I didnt bother to make the coupler moveable..it's glued in tight!  
the knuckle opens, but the coupler itself doesn't move.. 

but that is a non-issue for me, because this caboose will always be at the rear of a train.. 
only one coupler will ever need to be functional.. 
I know in "the real world" cabooses could often be coupled to other cars, on both ends, at the same time, 
but that simply wont need to happen in my model world.. 
I dont care about switching, or "operations"..that kind of thing doesn't interest me.. 
so this caboose will forever have only one end attached to a train!  

Scot


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Oh Scot... 

I fully understand your reasoning....was not trying to desude you into having a working unit... 

Dirk


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Decals! yay! 

I designed the decals myself, in photoshop, and had Stan Cedarleaf print them..
thanks Stan! 

I used several historic photos:










plus a real LV caboose recently restored in Buffalo:










as lettering guides to make the decals:










(The image above is low-resolution..the actual file for printing is 300 ppi)
I had to stretch out some of the lettering to match the prototype lettering, physically stretching out the letters wider, but not taller..turned out nice!



















(I love decaling!)

I decided to number my model LV 95053, based on the B&W photo above, because that photo has been
my main guide in building the model..I was originally planning make my caboose 95011, which is today preserved in Sayre, PA.
but im not sure if 95011 was built new *without* the drip-strips over the windows..It now believe it probably wasn't..

Probably only the first two phases were built without them, in the configuration I am modeling (With "window shades" rather than "drip strips")
later cabooses were probably built new with the drip strips. (and all were later retrofitted with them)
95011 is younger than 95053..(the numbers weren't consecutive by build date..)
In fact, 95050, shown above preserved in Buffalo, is the first! and oldest, of the LV steel cabooses..
built new at the LV's home shops, Sayre PA, in 1937. (where I was also born! 32 years later.)

So I thought instead I would honor the 95053, who is no longer with us. (as far as we know.)


Scot


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Lookin' good! 

BTW- that restored LV caboose is sitting about a mile or two from my house!


-Kevin.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Kevin,
They did a great job on that Williamsville caboose! they also hope to have a LV Alco S2 on display there as well! eventually..

update on the caboose project:

I use Krylon "satin" clear as the clear spray to seal in the decals..been using it for several years now, it works nicely:










I cant stand "dull coat"..I used to use it in my HO scale painting and decaling days when I was a teenager in the 80's, 
because I didnt know any better, but I now think it horrible..

Real locomotives and rolling stock are *not* totally dull and flat! unless they are very old and very weathered..
but most people make models that are meant to represent "mostly new" rolling stock, with just perhaps some light weathering..
they should not be totally flat!  New locomotives and rolling stock are actually highly glossy..

So I dont want "high gloss"..but I also dont want dead-flat..
This Krylon "satin" is a nice compromise between the two extremes.

Masked off everything except what I want to spray:



















I had some "orange peel" from the spray! 
I hate when that happens..it's not the sprays fault, its my technique to blame..
I sprayed too thickly on one of the passes..
I either went too slow, or I went back across too many times..
gotta go really really light on the spray..

It's not too bad..you can only see it from one to three feet away, and only if the light hits it just right..otherwise its not visible..
probably no one will ever notice, but I will know its there! urrrr..








oh well, I will have to do better on the other side..

One side is complete! 




























Scot


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## Sjoc78 (Jan 25, 2014)

Great work! Just curious what kind of chain do you recommend for the coupler release? That's like one of the last things I want to add to the caboose that I just built.


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Sjoc78 said:


> Great work! Just curious what kind of chain do you recommend for the coupler release? That's like one of the last things I want to add to the caboose that I just built.


I bought the chain at a local craft store..
we just happen to have another thread going right now about chain! 
I posted some detail about the chain I used there..rather than repeat what I wrote, you can just check it out there, and also see what other people have said about sources for chain:

http://forums.mylargescale.com/21-rolling-stock/35978-chains.html

Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

In my decaling post above I mentioned Stan Cedarleaf decals, but neglected to provide a link:

http://gold.mylargescale.com/stancedarleaf/webpagedecals/customdecalsx.html

thanks Stan!
Scot


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Update! new wheels!
I knew when I started this project that the caboose would definitely need new wheels..
the stock USA Trains wheels have gigantic flanges that are WAY larger than they need to be, (if you have good track!  
But since im detailing the whole caboose, new wheels were a must.

Gary Raymond wheels has just the thing:
http://www.audiomobiles.com/trains/trainwheels.html
They are model A33RL. also need the spacers for this USA caboose.

Stock USA trains wheel on the left, Gary Raymond wheel on the right:


















Stock USA Trains:









New wheels painted up:









And a photo with both:









I painted up the new wheels with "rust" paint..it doesnt look much like rust to me..it just looks brown to me..
but im still going to do some light weathering with chalks, so it will be fine. Im also going to paint the backs of the wheels, and the axles in black.

Next post should be of the finished caboose!
thanks,
Scot


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Scott..do you get to see running trains much?

The axles I see turn the same color of rusty dirty brown as both sides of the wheels....

I paint them all the same...rust oleum primer brown. For a start...then weathering..

Looks great ...

Dirk


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

SD90WLMT said:


> Scott..do you get to see running trains much?


Do you mean my own trains? 
actually yes, all the time..but at club events and on other railroads..
In 14 years of being in this hobby, trains have actually run at my own house.. one time! 
on a loop of track on the deck..



> The axles I see turn the same color of rusty dirty brown as both sides of the wheels....
> 
> I paint them all the same...rust oleum primer brown. For a start...then weathering..
> 
> ...


good idea! thanks..
I think I will mask off the treads and front of the wheels with masking tape, then hit them with primer..

Scot


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi Scott....

I meant...full scale ..real trains!!

I see this stuff everyday...why I asked...

Great "living resource" ...to have right in front of me.... constantly...

With amazing things to see...you would never consider some times for modeling...
Yet...there it goes by..in real life!

Dirk


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Scot, on the wheels, just wipe the treads with Vasoline before spraying. Once dry, the paint wipes right off the tread. 

Later,

K


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