# C P Huntington Build Log



## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I have thought about building this very small standard gauge engine many times but figured it would be too hard to get a boiler that would hold any water to fit between the wheels. I posted another thread asking for input on a T type boiler and though there was some doubt, I think the general consenses was that it would work provided it was strong enough. I reciently completed a Ruby bash for a friend and it came out so well that I figured I could use some of the replaced Ruby parts on this project.
Here is the Prototype








I start by checking the Ruby valve to see how much I can cut off








Then a whack on the table saw








The valves are now cut to length and ready for drilling








The new holes are drilled on the mill








The finished valve It is a littls longer than the scale drawing so I will need to increase the pilot wheel wheelbase








The 1/2" cylinders are turned out of 3/4" stock. The boring bar is ground from an old end mill








The finished cylinder-1/2" bore x .800 stroke next to a Ruby 3/8" cylinder

The bioler box is made from .080" copper. two simicircles were cut with the band saw slightly undersize. Luckly they came around and matched up
The stay was threaded and the SS nut held it in place while it was soldered








After soldering, the hole was finished with a spindle sander. A half round file would have done the trick also








The top and bottom were then cut and fitted








Stay holes were countersunk so that they could be ground flush after soldering








The stays were double nutted to keep the top from dropping down and from moving up. The SS nuts on the inside will stay there
The cross stays are flattened to keep them from falling out








The box is soldered together








The boiler tube is set in place








This gives you an idea of the size








These well nuts were soldered in the bottom for mounting they are turned from 3/16" stock to 1/8" and tapped to 2-56








This shows the bushings and the filler, throttle and pressure gauge tube








Entire assembly ready for soldering. We used two MAPP tourches with the large ends








Then pressure tested with air in a bucket of water









Because of the very small scale, I made the sight glass fittings as small as possible using a combination of metric and standard sizes and metric o-rings








The prototype has rivits around the side of the smokebox so I made a cover for this. Here I am embossing the rivets








1/8" X 1/8" square stock was silver soldered to the cover and then the relief for the hole was cut out on the band saw before the piece was bent








The wagon top boiler wrap raises 1/4" so I used a brass rod to keep things in place while I was measuring and cutting the pieces.
Unfortunatly this is the only shot I have of the process








Here is the boiler to date. The dings and scratches are filled in with JB Weld. The sides had to be hamered in to alow for the wheel clearence








The used Ruby eccentrics were replaced because they were worn out. I chucked the worn out part in the collet and turned the larger diameter down to the size I needed








Then on the mill, I duplicated the set screw holes on the other side








I now fit skate board bearings on the turned portion. I could have made new eccentrics but I now have a set which is factory matched to the valves I have
The ball bearings should ensure a lifetime of maintenance free operation.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Bill, 

Neat project and your superior craftsmanship too! 

Michael


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Bill-- you sure don't mess around!!! you get right to it and it looks great so far.


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, 

Impressive work, as aways. The boring bar in the photo looks like it was ground from an old twist drill? Was it? 

Steve


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Eric 
Steve 
It is ground from an end mill. Dennis' invention


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, 

Hat's off to Dennis. Tell him I'll pay the same royalty for "borrowing" as I always have. I recently had a notion to use some shanks of old twist drills to make a couple of very small 1/2 round punches, since I couldn't put my hands on any thin-wall steel tubing. The idea came from Colin Binnie's writings, but he used "silver steel". I decided to recycle some old drill bits. 

I annealed the drill shank, faced off the end in the lathe, and then bored into the end with a large enough drill bit to leave a hollow tube with a wall thickness of maybe 15 mils or less. Then filed a long tapered flat that removed half of it. I haven't tried to harden it yet. Good project for tomorrow. Not sure whether the shanks of twist drills are the same alloy as is used on the business end. My assumption is "yes", but maybe not typically hardened to the same degree. 

Steve


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Ball bearings for the eccentrics, great idea!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Dennis just finished machining the cast iron drivers I got from Walsall in England and emailed the photos to me








I'll post some higher res photos later








Here is the smoke box front all silver soldered up
The door hinges were super glued in place and then the rivet holes were drilled. It was then taken apart and cleaned in acetone and silver soldered together using the rivets to keep everything aligned








The 1/32" rivets are set in place with JB Weld which is a high temp epoxy








I will add the number plate bracket after I get a chance to see the real thing at the Sacramento RR Museum Tomorrow








Here is the cylinder and valve setup which looks good except that the smoke box on the Huntington sets much lower than the Ruby smoke box








I measured the amount of offset I will need and also the horozontal offset to get the exhaust port in the center of the stack.
I cut two pieces of foundry brick to that size. I cut off the 3mm ruby tubes and drilled the holes out to 1/8"
I then annealed some 1/8" tubing and bent it as shown








I then soldered everything up with 95/5 solder. I didn't use silver solder as I didn't want the valve bores to get distorted from the high heat


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting little project you have going here Bill. I haven't commented before now, but I'm following your Build Log.







I like your solution to the small boiler and will be interested to see how it steams and what kind of run times you get.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Dwight 
Hopefully it will be more than just once around the track


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

I too am following this thread with interest. I did notice one thing, though. Your smokebox seems to be round, but the C.P.Huntington has a "D" smokebox which the cylinders bolt to, instead of a saddle. Did you make that change intentionally?


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful, Bill.... Just beautiful...


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Stan 
Kenneth, good eye 
It looked round with a saddle underneath from the photo I had. 

I just got back from the museum and indeed it is done that way except there is a D shaped cover which goes all the way around it. You can see where the two meet only in the rear. looking at the front, the smokecox does go straight down from the sides. I will probably reconfigure mine to more closely resemble the real thing 
I took a ton of photos which I will study tonight


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

After my visit to Sac, I started on some of the things, I couldn't make out from the pictures








The smoke box cover now goes down to form a D shape








The door is insulated and number plate is attached








The frame for the pilot is cut, annealed and bent to shape and then held in place for mounting








Counterweights are cut and set in JB Weld








Wheels are painted and the tire portion is scraped off and polished on the lathe. The cylinder valve caps get the diamond plate and a paint job








Dennis did a CAD drawing for the stack, I cut the pieces just shy of the line on the band saw and finished the outside with the 1" belt sander and the inside with the spindle sander








Ready to silver solder








Here you can see the Ruby base which was turned down and soldered on the inside. below are the stock Ruby nut and washer








The base looks like this








Pilot is silversoldered together and mounted








Dennis did the lines on CAD and with a little adjustment, they will be ready to give to Stan for the decal process








The crosshead took a lot of time to design. The prototype has a four rail setup with the rails scalling down to 1/16"
I start with a piece of 1/4" stock and mill four 1/16" x 1/16" slots








The pieces I need are then cut from the milled stock and the slot for the drive rod and the hole for the piston rod as well as the set screw and pivot pin are machined
I couldn't find any 1/16' square stock so I used this high carbon steel. Similar to water hardened drill rod.








The moint at the cylinder is cut from the same stock and bored out to allow the piston rod clearence
The bolts are 00-90








The brackets on the right will bolt on to the crosshead bracket


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
your crossheads look beautiful! How did you finally tap them? This loco will definitely join the ranks of "Steam Rolexes". 

Regards
Henner


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Hey Bill, I got some extra Ruby cylinders lying around and a cross head. You think you could build a second one? LOL Awesome work!


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill
Did the engine have a cross head water pump? I cannot see it in the photo.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

No Charles, it had an injector 
Stephen 
Thanks for the compliment. I am glad to see the Ruby cylinders and valves are becoming plentiful. The new 1/2" cylinders come with a complete valve setup so the old valves can be used for different projects. They actually work pretty good if the admission is reversed. I find valve making much more challenging than cylinder making so using the ruby valves saves a lot of time and headaches.


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## Rail Planet (Jan 22, 2012)

Everything looks really sweet. I can't wait to see it run!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, Beautiful work! I love your solution for a small boiler, I'll be ancsious to hear how it works.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well, I have been busy on the CPH and haven't done much posting so here goes some catch up
I didn't get any shots of the cab front ar roof construction. 








This is the start of the valve linkage bell crank. The tube will have one bushing at each end








The tubes are set in the brackets for silver soldering








The bushings are then pressed in








Here I am milling out a home made quartering jig








The wheels are then quartered and set with locktite








Originally this was to be brass but I found that the original was wood with this detail








A cabinet scraper was cut to the profile with a dremmel cut off wheel









The cab sides are started. The pannels are cut from Basswood with oak rails









Windows are fitted








Center rail is set in place and glued








Mahogony windo frames are epoxied to polycarbonate as shown in upper rt. They will slide in place and be glued after the cab is painted.








Lower pannel detail is added








Hinge for roof is attached with JB Weld








Cab is completed and painted








Chassis is assembled and air tested








Side view










Crosshead and valve detail. The crank pin is left long for removal and will be cut flush later








Side rod and nut were machined from brass and then tin plated








Boiler wrap is painted silver blue








Boiler front is brown and the rear is black because of the cab windows need to have a dark interior.


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

This is so cool, I really like one-armed billy's. It will be a lot of fun to see it under steam. 

Jason


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Things are moving along ok
I just painted the headlight assymbly and am posting these photos while I am waiting for them to dry.








I turned the domes and Dennis made the octagon bases on his mill with the spindex attachment. I then painted the domes and then, on the lathe,
painted the black and red detail with a striping brush and the gold and green with a paint pen with the tip cut down to a chisel point with a razor blade








I started the cow catcher by cutting these groves in a piece of maple with a thin kerf blade on the table saw. The kerf is .100" and the spacing is 5/32"
I used the fence and started from the ends cutting both sides before moving the fence
Maple was used for it's strength and painting ability








I then cut the upper and lower piece to size and shape








The upper piece is clamped in place and the mounting holes are drilled








The unit is squared up and the outer vertical rails are glued in place








The angle cuts are cut on the rails and they are about 1/4" long to allow for the sanding which is done after the glue dries








The flat item you see behind the cow catcher is a brass reinfoecement member which is epoxied to one of the groves on the bottom of the cow catcher and bolted to the frame cross member








Completed pilot








The wheels were turned out of steel stock to match the prototype on Dennis' lathe. My 7" x 14" was straining too much for the job
The striping was done on the lathe








The headlight is formed by silver soldering some .025 stock up
The bezel and reflector are turned on the lathe








The mounting bracket is cut from .025 stock and the detail is done with a 1/16" end mill. Screws are 00-90








A 6v light bulb from Radio Shack is JB'ed to the reflector.
One insulated and one stripped 28ga wire are fed through the 1/16" OD tube (two won't fit)


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Can anybody recommend a good method for getting drool out of a computer keyboard? What a beautiful little gem of a locomotive she is shaping up to be. Great work, Bill!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Richard 
I was sitting here doing my taxes and feeling low when I saw your response and it cheered me up 
Oh well, back to work.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Only thing I'd done different is build a brass cow catcher. I have bad luck with wooden ones! Awesome!


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I must chime in on admiring your workmanship. VERY NICE

Like diamond jewelry.

Each piece is exquisite...

However, due to my own personal aesthetic vision, I see only diamond jewelry hanging on an ugly ol' sea-cow. When the C.P. Huntington was desgned somebody forgot the 2nd set of drvers and ruined the whole thing! I realize that there are those that like the design, and if I hide the lower rear quadrant it is a nice engine, but when the 2nd set of drivers are replaced by the small 4-wheel truck the whole balance is lost.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Steven 
I want to use the same materials as the prototype as much as possible 
I have built two other wooden cow catchers, both out of mahogony which is very strong and stains up nicely but does not paint well. The maple is even stronger and you can see how it holds paint. 
The cow catcher I made for my C-16 withstood a 3' nose first dive off my track. It bent the SS frame horns but the cow catcher remained intact. The secret is the interlocking joints formed by the groves. 
It is hard to see but I also have a substantial brass reinforcement on the underside. I will post a shot of that. 
Also, I would never use any wood other than Maple or Mahogony for one of these. 
Semper 
The single drive axle is what lured me to making this. 
Beauty, is in the eye of the beholder


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, I know. I spent the afternoon one time talking to a nice biologist in Florida that thought Sea-Cows were beautiful!

There is just no accouting for taste!









Beautiful jewelry anyway!


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Ah ok Billie. I love Bronson Tate's cabs but his cow catchers are very fragile. I'll never forgot that one wood cow catcher kit I built for my Ruby that got crushed with one foul acorn! Sounds awesome!


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Bill-- 

the engine is coming along beautifully! she looks kinda like an express Forney! 

I have a walnut wood pilot on my number nine. I have dug some cinders with her front end several times. The pilot is fine but I just now looked up (she resides above my monitor) and the brass step next to the pilot was bent. No worries, I bent it back without a problem.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Outstanding work Bill. She's gonna be a real little gem!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

I am enthralled!! You are definitely putting together one gem of a locomotive!


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Outstanding! The attention to detail is incredible. I cant wait to see how it steams.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thank you all for your compliments.
I just finished the underside of the chassis and a few other things








I got a bell casting from a friend. It had to be finished though. I filed off the flashings with a diamond needle file then sanded the bell with
180, 220, 320 and 600 and then polished it on my buffing wheel. here I am applying a clear coat. The picture is blurry because of the shiny bell reflecting the light








I made this mounting bracket. The hole in the middle will center the mounting bracket which will be soldered on








Finished bell. Screws are 00-90








Here is the rear pony truck. Again, Dennis made the wheels. There is a little pivot in the center on each side but other than tat there is no lateral movement in the truck it's self
The brass spacers on the outside of the wheels were turned to alow only a few thousands of clearence.
On the prototype, these axles are fixed to the frame to keep it on the straight and narrow as there is only one drive axle
Because I will be running on our smaller G scale radii I need some movement thus the springs which will keep it centered and bring it back after the turns









Because everything is so small, this is the only place which accomodates the batteries. These are AAA's and will be removable by removing the two screws on the left
The batteries on the right slide through their mounting brackets. The springs and brass terminals are epoxied th the wood frame. Nothing touches the brass frame








The truck is mounted in place and clearences are checked. You can see the 1/8" lateral movement built in to the assembly

The reverse servo is mounted and the wire routed. 
This is a good shot of the cow catcher brace shown just ahead of the front axle with the two brass screws

Side view of the chassis with the pony truck in place
Next up, the bunker, fuel tank, lubricator and RC


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

FYI: A "pony truck" has only two wheels. A leading truck with 4 wheels has no specific name other than a "4-wheel leading truck".


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Generally speaking, the bell rope is on the fireman's side and the whistle cord on the engineer's side - just an FYI.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

It is amazing how little I know 
Thanks for the corrections. Luckily The bell bracket is symetrical so i can turn it around


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By bille1906 on 16 Apr 2012 04:59 PM 
It is amazing how little I know 
Thanks for the corrections. Luckily The bell bracket is symetrical so i can turn it around 

We're only nit-picking because we are insanely jealous of what you have going!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

OK
I have been putting this off for a while and all of the time trying to figure out how to put all of the working parts in a bunker which is only 3" wide and has a working height of 1"
When you look at a Ruby, you think the fuel tank and lubricator are small but they are 3" high vs my 1" so I needed to do some shoe-horn'ing








The lube and fuel tank sheels are bent to shape from 1/16" brass and fitted with the RC receiver








The bunker is rivit embosed bent and solderded .025 brass sheet is used








The three components








Ready for the tops now








The lubricator is a pass-through design. The .0135 hole is drilled with a #80 bit after the tube is silver soldered on and before the top is attached








The completed lubricator has the inlet and filler plug at the top and an offset outlet manifold at the bottom which is set in the bunker floor
Tube at the botton goes directly to the cylinder valve








The fuel valve is at the top and the filler riser on the bottom. The 5 mm X.5 Accucraft filler valve will be used








Here is the underside of the fuel tank top. The valve is on the left. The hole at the base is where the gas is picked up and the tube at the top 
goes to a solder fitting and then to the jet. The filler riser is on the right








The completed tank shows the filler at the bottom, the valve at the top and the outlet on the left. There is a hole in the outlet which does not show in the picture








The tank is gassed up and checked in warm watter for leaks.








The bunker is so close to the boiler that i had to cut down the burner tube, the jet and the jet holder. Here you see a complete assymbly which is the same size as the original burner alone
This setup will allow for removing the jet without removing the bunker.








Finished setup with tubing instaled


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Wowee!!! that is slick! 

Great work Bill! 

where did you get the filler valve for the gas tank?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Eric 
From Cliff at Accucraft $7.00 each 
The Accucraft valve has a nice big vent hole where generic valves vent through the space between the filler tube and the valve body 
You just need to make sure your mount is no thicker than 1/16" or you will block the vent hole. If you need a riser like the one I did, it should be wide enough to allow the fluid to pass by the venting gas


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well I am getting near the end. I have a few more detail parts to make and then disassmble and install the decals which I will be getting from Stan Cederleaf.
I took some shots prior to the disassembly








I used 14 ga copper wire to make the bunker beading with the scroll detail per the original. The prototype has a horse shoe shaped
bunker but I needed more room so i made the rivit detail on the cover in that shape as I understand that an oil tank was added on later so the center section represents the added tank








The flag poles are chrome plated so i used SS to duplicate them These pieces were done on the lathe and then sanded and polished while still on the lathe
















The number was cut on the band saw and cleaned up with a needle file. I learned this trick on this Forum - I think from Eric








The number is soldered on








Here is a bottom shot with the rear truck removed you can see how the steam line hooks up to the lubricator. The micro conectors with the white dots are for the battery switch and the lights
The servo for reverse will also control the speed


Below are shots from diffferent angles Big brother is in the background
















The buckets were made from .010" brass sheet. The coupeler was turned from round brass stock, annealed and then flattened out in the vise
The rest of the detail was done in the mill
You can just barely see the toggle swithc for the battery under the roof on the left side
The throttle valve is under the center of the roof. I haven't decided on the handle I will use
















You can see the servo and rod between the drivers abd rear truck. This will be covered with a replica of the extra water tank used on the original








I'm not sure I like the running board diamond plate. I used a mesh and the epoxy came through in a few places causing the shiny areas
Dennis says it just looks like oil or grease spots but I am not sure. I painted some flat black on it last night and if it doesn't work, I may try something else


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill
Very anxious to see that outstanding craftsmanship on the track!


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

We'll be expecting a full report on her first steam-up, I'm sure we're all interested to see how the box-T-boiler performs. She looks spectacular!


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Very nice. Q- when cutting your stack material on the band saw, what gauge metal, speed, and what size (tpi) blade did you use?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome! A beautiful model. 

I want one - can't you ask Accucraft to make a run of them for us?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for the compliments 
On the boiler, I checked the capacity this morning and it is 180 ML and a Ruby is 120 ML so I should be able to go 20 - 30 minutes before refilling through the goodall valve. It's ready to run but I don't want to get any oil on it before the decals go on. 
On the stack, it is cut from .025 brass sheet. There is a company near me that sells new and recycled metals and there seems to be a lot of remnants in this size. I usually anneal it by heating it with a butane or MAPP torch till it is red. This makes it easier to bend and keeps it fron springing back. It softens and weakens the material somewhat but with the .025 thickness it is still plenty strong. The thickness also allows drilling and tapping holes to mount things when you use it for a boiler wrap 
I have a 1/4" metal cutting blade and an 8 tooth wood cutting blade on a 16" Jet band saw. It has only one speed as it is designed for wood. Either blade works good with the .025 stock but if I need real fine work (like on the number "1" ) or am using thin material, I use the metal blade. 
When I cut the material, I only go to the line with the band saw and then use the 1" belt sander and the occilating spindle sander or sometimes files to take out the line. This gives a perfect fit and takes out the band saw blade marks. 
You really only need a slow speed for cutting steel.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

You run it all on air? Is the throttle going to be r/c or just the reverse? I have a Pearse switcher setup with no r/c on the throttle but the reverse is r/c. It does work for piston reversers but it is not the smoothest way to drive a train. If you ever want to sell it let me know! j/k Great job!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Steven 
Yes I will only have the reverse on a servo. I will probably set the running speed with the manual throttle and tweek it with the reverser. I have actually had good luck controlling the piston reversed trains that way but you are right it becomes very sensitive. 
I ran it and tuned it up on air so it should be good to go.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well
I am nearing completion
I decaled the parts last night and clear coated them today so everything should be ready for assymbly tomorrow
Finished up a few detail parts last week while waitng for the decals to come in.








Detail parts are turned and added to the steam dome








Sand pipe and angle fitting are added to the sand dome base. This will be JB'ed after the base decal is installed








Pilot fender blanks are roughed out on the band saw and annealed








Pieces are bent to shape and final markings are made in place. Then the 1" belt sander is used to finish to the line








Final adjustments are made for proper clearence. The cut out part in the middle is to clear the cylinders








Painted and ready for mounting


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Wow, just wow. Even the pilot truck is a fiddley work of art! Please don't leave us hang long, we need to see this thing steam. Did you come to a decision on you diamond plate running boards?


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Hi Randy
The flat black on the running boards works out ok
I should be giving it a steam run next week
Here are some shots of it decaled



































Here you can see the rosewood throttle handle above the pressure gauge and the hand made buckets










Spring loaded ball catch for the smoke box door


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
did the Solvaset work?
Regards


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh man!! That turned out _ fantastic!!!_


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## Gerd (Jan 7, 2008)

Aewsome work !!!! 

Bye, Gerd


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Billie, 
Super build, great work and thanks for the explination on how you built the cowcather. 
Chuck


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Hi Henner
On the stack decal...
I forgot your directions and couldn't find the Train Shop in the navagator and got lost. I was late in getting back home so I never picked it up. After I got home, I looked it over and decided it wasn't that bad so I clear coated it and it actually came out pretty good.
My main concern was that any bubbles might cause a problem in the high heat areas but I used clear engine enamel (500 F) so I will give it a try. If it lifts, I will just redo it


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Bill-- 

She looks great! the decals and painting really give it the final glory. cant wait to see how she performs.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

It does look really good. Great job!


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Well, I have the answer to the question many of you were asking 
Will this contraption run. 
I gave her a couple of runs today and it was great. 
She came up to 40psi in about five minutes or so. I had the gas on low as I am not familiar with it yet. 
It had a little condensation which cleared out with a couple of forward and reverse shifts on the RC and took off pulling three small cars. 
The speed is adjustable from a slow prototypical speed to about 150 mph 
Even though it is a sunny day, the plume was nice and the chuff is noticable because the diamond stack is actually a chuff box (Dennis' design) 
It ran about 20 minutes and then ran out of gas with some water still on the sight glass 
On the second run, I added two cars but it didn't seem to make any difference. 
The lubricator worked as planned with the #80 hole but it actually could have been smaller. It uses about 1/4 the amount of oil as the Ruby does and I should be able to get 6 or 8 runs out of a tank full 
The plan was to have the lubricator heat the gas tank and the gas tank cool the lubricator. I think it is working as the lubricator was at 120F and the gas tank at 85F at the end of both runs. It's about 80F outside 
In the future, I'll probably top off the gas after reaching pressure. 
I am having some friends over Saturday to run trains and hope to post some videos of it next week


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill
Great accomplishment, hope the next run will allow us to enjoy your steam re-creation of a historic locomotive.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
congratulation to the successful run! I know this was a fiddly project. Do we need to christen it with a Champagne bottle on Saturday?
Regards


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Henner 
I actually have a 1/32 Champagne bottle Dennis gave me. I will try to find it for Saturday


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, it turned out fantastic. The stack decals look great...









Glad you have it done.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

_"It is ALIVE!!!"_ Seriously, a fantastic job! Bravo!!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, That is a fabulous work of art! I can't believe how fast you got it done. My live steam Bogie using Fletcher's drawings took about 2 1/2 years! Thanks for sharing, you have some great ideas on how to do things.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Stan, Steve & Winn 
Thanks for the compliments 
Winn 
That was pretty fast. I had to go back to check my first posting on March 16 which was a day or two after I started work 
But, I have been thinking about the project for a couple of years so even though I didn't have plans drawn up, I kind of knew how I was going to go about it. 
I actually went up to the Sacramento museum library and got photos and drawings a couple of years before I started the project and decided it would be too hard to do so I decided a Garratt would be easier 
Surprisingly, I find that I am able to keep things going by making most of the stuff my self rather than waiting for something to be shipped and then to find out it isn't the right thing 
My friend Dennis Mead helps me a lot on some of the more difficult machining jobs and puts my drawings into CAD which is helpful in the build and is good for future reference. He made the octagon dome bases and the pilot and trailing wheels


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## norman (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi Bill Allen: 

Have you thought of having a local US firm mfg a qty of these? 
What would be the required retail price? 

Norman


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Here is a video of the Huntington at my house yesterday. Please excuse the rolling stock, it was the only thing I had around that was close to scale.
I will be making some cars for it. If anyone has some info or photos of 1860 - 1910 cars, I would appreciate it. Actually, post 1911 would work too as that was the date the original was restored.

http://youtu.be/3OeY_XU3hbM

To answer the question about having a company make these, I would think that it would be too expensive to produce and sell at a reasonable price.
I believe Delron made a brass electric model a few years ago but the scale, colors and some of the material was off. I think it sold somewhere in the $2k range


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Just looked at the video. Fantastic. Bravo! 

Steve


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Thanks Steve
I forgot to post this photo of my little guy next to Joel Taylor's Coal fired K-28


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

So cool, looks great! Doesn't appear like it has any problem keeping the steam pressure up too.  

Jason


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Wonderful video, Bill. Runs like a champ... 

Love the "Specially Designed, Hi Tech" coupler....


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Jason 
No problem on the steam at all. Runs as planned 
Stan 
Yes, the coupler took a lot of tome on the CAD and 3-D printer 
The decals are nice also


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill,
thanks again for a wonderful day! Both your locos ran flawlessly. I was surprised, how well the Huntington kept up steam, even with the heavy train and full speed. The photo above is quite interesting: The Russian iron looks gray in the shade and turns to blue in full sunshine with the blue sky reflecting. Exactly what the experts say all along.

Regards


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## norman (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi Bill: 

This is super neat. 

What is the run time on the model? 

The T boiler filling the inside of the cab is not a negative at all. Rather it is a plus as this makes the throttle lever and steam gauge more accessable. 

Can you post a summary of model line drawing plans and step by step construction similar to what Dave Fletcher did for his MasterClass Series? I believe several folks would like to build this loco. 


Norman


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Norman 
I haven't timed it yet but I think it is about 20 minutes before it runs out of gas. There is still a little water left at that time. I could probably lengthen the time bu cutting the gas down so that the pop off doesent go off and run it at a more prototypical speed but it is more fun doing Indy 500 version for now. 
I haven't seen David Fletcher's series. Fron what I understand it has been lost in the archives so I don't know how he did it. 
I tried to document most of what I did in this build log. I thought I had posted the drawing but I just looked and it is not here. 
I'll send what I have in a few minutes.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Norman
Here is the drawing of the CP Huntington I used to get my demensions. I saved the file and printed it out to the scale I needed using the percentage tool in the printer. From that I was able to measure every part with my calipers. I have the original files from the meuseum but they are in bitmap and I can't get them in here. On this one, I printed it and then scaned it into my computer in jpeg. I can email the files I have which include the top and front/back view if you send me a private message with your email address

My scale is 1/29 so I just divided the scale by 29 and reduced till I got the right number on the print out


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Henner was able to convert all on the drawings I have to Jpeg
Also in his previous posting he mentioned about the changes in color when the engine is in the sunlight under a clear blue sky how it reflecte the blue color.
I tried several different paints before I decided on this color which most closly matches the restored original.


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## norman (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi Bill: 

Which drivers did you order from England. Company and specific cast driver? 

Running the loco with the pop valve lifting is actually fun to watch. Do you have a bark box in the stack? 

I like the wagon top boiler, cab, stack, oil headlamp and cowcatcher of the CP Huntington. The single driver is a love / hate opinion for me. However, watching your model run under steam makes it all look great. 

The Disneyland Ward Kimball loco ( but then altered ) with fluted domes, diamond stack, flat panel roof cab and cowcatcher as per the CP Huntington is the most attractive combination for my tastes. Similar to the HLW "Princess" loco freelance design. 

Has Cliff at Accucraft seen the finished model in person? This would be a nice follow up to the Mason Bogie project if it could retail under the 1,500.00 mark. 


Norman


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

Norman 
I think this link will get you there G1909 wheels with5/16" cramks 
walsallmodelindustries.co.uk 
The stack is a bark box 
I doubt that any company would undertake one if these as a project in standard gauge. I believe Aster did an American with an alcohol pot boiler in 1/28 but it wasn't under $1500


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