# LGB digital sound



## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

I have modified an LGB Pennsy Mogul from track to battery power. Everything is working fine except the sound, in particular, the chuffing, i.e. there isn't any. I want to use the LGB digital sound card already in the tender and have the chuff rate synced to the motor voltage. I am using an AirWire G2 decoder card and 12v battery system.

Any help will be much appreciated.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Stephen... Do you have the motor leads from the Airwire decoder wired to the sound input?????? It should work that way....


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For the older moguls, LGB has a 6 wire cable on the moguls with the chuff sensor on the rear engine axle. Three wires of the 6 were for this sensor (power, ground, signal). 
So, all that is needed is this to be connected plus place your battery power to the board. 

This is assuming that the mogul had the original sound unit, original Pennsylvania was the 2219S.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

Attached is a wiring diagram of my setup. In the upper left corner is a list of all the numbers I could find on the engine tender and the LGB sound card. I didn't show the battery pack for clarity, but it connects to TM3-1 and TM3-8 of the AirWire G2 decoder card. I think P4 goes to the chuff circuit, but if it does it is not doing anything to vary the sound. 

/Users/stephenjurhs/Desktop/100_5512.JPG


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Your link looks like it is on your own computer, no reference to the world wide web.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By stephenkazoo on 05 Aug 2012 11:00 PM 
Attached is a wiring diagram of my setup. In the upper left corner is a list of all the numbers I could find on the engine tender and the LGB sound card. I didn't show the battery pack for clarity, but it connects to TM3-1 and TM3-8 of the AirWire G2 decoder card. I think P4 goes to the chuff circuit, but if it does it is not doing anything to vary the sound. 

/Users/stephenjurhs/Desktop/100_5512.JPG Stephen

From the value that you entered for the image file's URL, which I've highlighted in red above. It looks like you are pointing to a file located on your local computer, and that isn't accessible across the Internet so it won't work.

First you need to have your image file stored on a resource that is accessible over the Internet e.g. one of the free Photo Sharing sites that are available (i.e. Photobucket, Flickr, etc.). Then review the instructions provided in the MLS - FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) - Q11. As a Standard Member how do I use the Rich-text/HTML Editor?[/b] on how to include images in your posted replies.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

I am trying to work out posting a picture. Currently, I'm just getting a question mark. I'm waiting for a reply from my contact email. 

In the mean time, here are the numbers I have been able to locate if that helps any: 

Engine: LGB Pennsy Mogul number; 25182 
Tender: LGB Pennsy Tender number; 2018/10 
Digital Sound PC card: numbers; 20192 LGB 8.837010.9 ME 010601 V3.0


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

That is the newer pennsy with the real recorded whistle and bell sounds. It still uses a chuff sensor on the rear axel of the engine. Some of the newest ones had mts with the electronics in the engine with just a speaker in the tender. Refering to the one with the sound board in the tender ,the six pin plug uses three of the pins for sending signal to the board in the tender via the chuff sensor in the engine. 
When wiring the airwire , is it possible that you messed with these wires? You talk about p4 going to the chuff circuit. When you say P4 do you mean on the airwire or the LGB sound board? I have the newer sound system in one of mine but i dont really want to tear it apart. All the original wiring should have been left alone except for the wires powering the sound circuit board. There is where power from the airwire should have been used. I beleive it is two red wires in the center of the board. They are both red because the board has its on bridge rectifier. 
If you tried wiring the chuff from the airwire it will do nothing but hiss when you power it up. It needs to read input from the chuff sensor. It can also be done using a reed if one knows how to wire it up. I dont know much about airwire but if it does have a place to wire in for chuff ie. (p4) . Its should not be used in this application. I hope this helped. 

By the way ,this version has no battery for low voltage running. Just capicitors for standing sounds. If you wiring it up for battery ,i would wire it directly to battery power. If you wire it to the motor output of the airwire and dont run the engine fast enough. The sound wont work either because it won't get enough voltage to power up correctly. The LGB circuit board in the loco has a voltage drop that holds the engine back till it gains enough track voltage to power the sound unit. Hope this helps The Roundhouse RnR


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

by the way , if its the newer version with the sound module in the engine with MTS. It still has a chuff sensor and still needs to be used.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Also to be more clear incase know one was. The chuff sensor uses a cam on the back wheel and gives a two chuff per rev. The lgb sound does not respond to motor voltage which is what the op wants to do . Even the diesels use a sensor, unless you are using there add on sound system like the ones in the lil 0-4-0. I just now read that you have the board in the tender. sorry for not seeing that. I hope this info helps. Feel free to ask if you need more info. The Roundhouse RnR


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Of the many LGB models I own, all are equipped with a Hall Effect Sensor for chuff signal. A small PCB with an integral circuit and transducer is slid down into the rear of the motor block; the transducer is influenced by a magnetic field (a cam or ecentric shaped magnetic disc is fixed to the rear axle within the motor block). If I recall the circuit used is digital verses analog allowing the sensor to act as on/off switch. 

The chuff sensor is not usable on its own as a trigger, it must be powered up; three wires, two from a regulated power source (V+ / V-) and third is the on/off trigger or signal.

If Stephen is using the original sound system the chuff sensor should be left alone. The AirWire card is driving the motor and perhaps some lighting effects only. The chuff sensor is not influenced by motor operating voltage, so it matters not what voltage the motor sees as the chuff sensor counts wheel revolutions and routes said data to the sound card interface which reproduces chuff based on the physical position of the rear driver. All other sound variables are likely voltage influenced, less the whistle and bell magnet triggered sounds of the reeds under the tender.

I don’t see the need to drive the sound system with the G2’s AUX or Sound DCC driver with this engine (unless it can accept DCC command protocol) in this circumstance you’d use the AUX DCC output of TM2, terminals #1&2 (I don't have any knowledge of the MTS protocol being compatible with NMRA standards, I believe not!). 

I’d suggest connecting the two wires that were originally connected to the track power pick-up terminals of the motor block to the G2 at terminals #1&8 of TM3; same as battery power input, this will power all the original stuff and allow the user to utilize the OEM on/off switches for lighting/sound/smoke/motor (sound/motor is not applicable any longer, so turn em off). The motor and sound power should be connected directly to terminals (A) #2 or 3 and (B) #3 or 4 of TM3 on the G2.

FWIW: I’d remove the sliders and gut all the power pick-up stuff internals. 

Michael


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

i do know the mogul has a switch in the cab that has 3 positions. Position 0 means motor, smoke, lights and sound off. Position 1 means smoke, lights on , no motor. Posistion 3 is full on. There is also a seperate power switch for the sound board on the tender alone. So if you turn off the sound and motor as michael states , no matter how its wired you will lose sound completly in the off position. Turning the motor off is irrelevant because you wont be using that part of the board, just isolate the leads. 
Also if wiring as michael states, smoke will always be on unless you set the switch to position 0 wich would leave you with no lights. And if wired to the same posts as battery input you lose directional lighting also. The way described is a very simple way to wire the unit but leaves all the functions useless of the g2. 

My opinion would be remove the sliders and power pickup brushes to cut down on drag and eleminate power from bleeding to track. Then i would wire the front and rear lights to the G2 with the apropriate resistor to the 5 volt lights( you need to use a resistor because lgb used a 5 volt regulator on the board to power lights). If you dont want to use a resistor then just put lgb 24 volt light bulbs in .( remember disconnect the leads from the lights going to the board in the loco) This gives you total control of directional lighting. 

Then Wire the sound board two position #1 and #8 of the g2 . The sound board has a built in on and off switch just incase you want sound off if needed so no need to wire one in . 

Remove the motor leads on the motor block to the board and insulate them. Then wire the motor to the G2 motor outputs if you havent yet. 

Then run another set of wires from #1 and #8 to where the original power pickup leads went to the board. Now the switch in the cab will be for smoke control. You need the board for 1 a means to shut the smoke off and 2 for the 5 volt regulator for smoke. Position 0 will be smoke off and postion 1 will be smoke on. This way will take a little more time and wire but gives you full control of the loco and the G2 functions. The Roundhouse RnR


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

almost forgot, only problem would be is you will lose your firebox glow when smoke is off. Sorta prototypical lol. You could get around this by adding an on off switch after the regulator but this gets more messy. There tons of ways to wire this correctly, just choose one that works for you.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

lol im bad at forgeting little things. Also if you choose to wire the sound card to the terminals # 2 and 3 of the G2 , at low voltages your sound will not work correctly because the sound card will be seeing motor voltage. This would be fine with the older units becase of the battery back up but not with your version. This is why i suggest giving the sound the full battery power. The newer sound board blows the whistle according to the movement in either dirrection not according to track voltage. This was true of the old analog units but not the newer units. Thus wiring this way would be perfect for you.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

As suggested there are many variables to evaluate. I think we can all agree it’s not a perfect marriage of equipment.

Couple of thoughts:

AUTO whistle/bell sequences are influenced by polarity/voltage changes of other cards, I’m assuming the LGB card does the same as I don’t recall. There are other ambient noises are influenced by time and voltage changes, again with other sound cards. 

Battery guys don’t generally use smoke, so it’s a moot consideration for most IMO.

Once the capacitors are charged its all good, the sound unit works as designed. 
The G2 affords some flexibility with starting voltage curves and speed steps.

I’ll have to see if I have a Mogul with the digital sound still in place or a loose card available for interrogation. 

Michael


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

Thanks guys for all the input. I will spend some time analyzing your responses. When I get my current wiring diagram posted, maybe you guys can be more explicit.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

The only reason im familiar with the new digital board is because i have added the new board to my old 2219s. You know the tuscan red mogul with the old analog sound unit. Its actually pictured in my profile picture. I had some extra hall effect sensors laying around with a new axel with the magent to replace the metal disc one in the original unit. One day the new board popped up on ebay and i won it for about 50 bucks. 
I added the new axel to the old 2219s and wired in a bridge rectifier with the - and + leads twisted together, then the one side of the motor input went to the variable input of the rectifier. The other side went to the board in the cab. Now the engine sits and waits till i get full lights and smoke and sound before it even makes a wheel revolution. I personally like this way better then to run the engine like crazy to charge a capacitor bank and even then it still wont operate at low volltage. This gave me the voltage drop i needed to power up the board before the engine moved. 

The board doesnt power up till about 7 volts with this version. There is NO auto bell or whistle regaurdless of track voltage. This is a total different beast compared to the old sound board. The old sound board had an auto whistle once the engine got around 6 to 7 volts. You can varify this by switching your mogul to the 2 position in the cab and powering up . The old mogul will sit idle and blow the whistle. The new board sences direction and gives a protypical 2 or 3 toots in the appropiate direction. There is again no auto whistle or bell in this unit. Have fun and hope you figure it out. The Roundhouse RnR


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

Still have not received any information on getting a picture into a post. So here's a description of the pertinent connections. 

There are three inputs into the LGB sound card. Two three pin connectors and a two pin connector. One of the three pin connectors goes to a magnetic switch assembly to operate the bell and whistle. The other three pin connector feeds through the tender connector assembly and into and through the boiler PC card. From there, I believe, it feeds into the chuff circuitry. The two pin connector, I think is for power input to the sound card. I currently have it connected to the motor voltage coming from the Airwire G2 card. That may be wrong, perhaps it should have a fixed battery voltage instead. Currently, the battery voltage only feeds the Airwire G2 card. 

The 12v battery pack is connected to TM3-1(+) and TM3-8 (-). The motor drive voltage from TM3-2 and TM3-4 is connected into the tender connector card and from there into the boiler PC card. From there it feeds the motor, front light, and the firebox circuit. All of which work. I've replaced the flicker circuitry with flashing LEDs. 

I hope this isn't too confusing and can be made sense of.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Your connections to the G2 is correct. My question is, what do you mean by tender connector card? Are you talking about where the six pin plug plugs into ? You also mention that you ran motor voltage to the sound card itself, so does that mean you ran your connections to both the sound card and the tender " connector card". 
Also things to know that would help, 
* Are you getting any sound at all? Hissing , or anything. 
* obviously you have the switch on the sound card turned on and volume up right?? 
* Have you tried running the loco up to full throttle? This will tell you if the card is not getting enough voltage. Remember that particular board doesnt power up till around six volts or so. 
So since you have it wired to motor voltage you will need to run it a little faster to charge the caps. 

Heres how i would wire it now that i know a little better how you have it wired. 
These instruction are for assuming you are starting from factory wiring. 
* Disconnect all power going to the rails( removing carbon brushes is optional but recommened ) 
* Disconnect smoke unit if you dont plan on using it. This is important because if you plan on just shutting it off by the switch you will lose motor and lights also. 
* Pick either wires going to either tender trucks for power. They are black and red. Wire the G2 TM3-2 and 4 here. This will give you directional lighting and motor control. 
* i just remembered but forgot because i dont use PWM. However LGB sound cards dont like PWM which is what your controler uses for motor control. It cause them to go haywire. You cannot use motor control for power to the sound because it is not a linear power source. SO disconnect the orginal power leads going to the board. You have it right as far as which ones are the power leads as long as your not thinking of the 2 pin connector which is for the speaker. Just trace the leads . It is the opposite of the one not leading to the speaker. There is where you should wire leads dirrectly from the battery. Polarity doesnt matter and the sound card has its own switch incase you get tired of hearing sound. Give that a try . Im sorry i completely forgot about PWM and LGB sound cards. This is a better way to wire it anyway as it gives you sound at low speeds. 
The Roundhouse RnR


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

If that dont work, i will need more symtoms. Meaning Is there sound at all and so on? What all did you modify on the PC card in the loco under the cab? Where exactly did you attach your power wires from the G2 TM3- 2 and 4 in the tender.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By stephenkazoo on 09 Aug 2012 09:28 PM 
Still have not received any information on getting a picture into a post. So here's a description of the pertinent connections. {snip...}[/i] Stephen

I would suggest that you review my post of _06 Aug 2012 10:12 AM_, this topic.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

I left the sound card power in where it was, so it is getting power from the motor control. That may be the problem. I will rewire that to battery power which will be a fixed 12 volts. Will that be a problem? 

By tender connector card I do mean the small T shaped card that has the six pins going to the locomotive and the eight pins shown circled in your diagram. 

I get a continuous hissing sound and I have run the loco up to full throttle. 

My setup is pretty much the same as shown in your diagram except for the power in to the sound card which I will change as suggested. 

I have also disconnected the smoke power and all wipers to wheels.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

I just powered up my mogul under pulse power and the sound worked fined. I remember someone saying that the newer digital boards work with pulse power but the olders ones don't due to the way that they sence track voltage for auto whistle. 
So that being said i would still try and wire the battery to the board direct just to elminate any wierd possible problem of the G2 sending goofy signals over the motor leads. ( unlikely but still) 
Even if it is just temporary just to be sure. It will be fine with 12 volts . It must be a problem of the hall effect not making signal with the board. 
Two possible problems 
1- The wires going to the six pin plug have torn loose inside the plug from being pulled in and out. I have seen it happen on moguls with hardly any wear. Just takes the wrong tug on the wires and thats it. Involes you to gently pull the plug apart. Strip back the wires about a quarter inch. Push the wires back in. When you push the plug back together it automatically strips the wires for you. 
2- is there any chance the plugs got switched for the reed switches under the truck for bell and whistle with the plug going to the chuff sensor? 

Also possibility is something got messed up when you where in side the engine. 
* wires could have got pinched inside when you put the boiler back on the motor block. 
* Not sure what got modified for the fireboxs but maybe a loose solder joint. 

Get the ohm meter out and start checking. I hope you figure this out. I assume the loco worked prior to this so it should be an easy fix. The Roundhouse RnR


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

TheRoundHouseRnR 

I just finished removing the motor control wiring from the two pin connector and rewiring the battery power to it, as shown in your diagram. The wire going to the connector was clipped from the PC card and connected to the battery pack. 
The motor control wires (G2 TM3-2 and 4) are wired as suggested in your diagram. The wiring coming from the tender trucks has been removed and so have the brushes. 
My setup now looks just like your diagram, except for the truck wires which have been removed. 

Unfortunately, no joy just the continual hissing sound of escaping steam. Will now proceed to ring out the connections going to the boiler PC card. 

Stephen


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

I would suggest that you review my post of 06 Aug 2012 10:12 AM, this topic. 

SteveC 

I reviewed the section suggested with the same results. Here is the template file I created: 

 










 


http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenkazoo/77279211498/in/photostream 


 










 


When I posted the above (last 3 lines only) into "Add Reply" HTML mode and then returned to normal, what I got was a small block with a question mark inside. 

What am I doing wrong? Does the picture have to be other than jpg? Does it have to be a certain size? Is there something wrong with my text? Should the web storage be something other than Flickr? 

Stephen


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

SteveC 

Well that didn't turn out well. At least you can see what I got. 

What you were supposed to see in the first block was: 
*div*$nbsp*/div* 
*div**img alt="" src="http://picture_url/" width="800" /**/div* 
*div*$nbsp*/div* 

What you were supposed to see in the third block was: 
*div*$nbsp*/div*
*div**img alt="" src="http://http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenkazoo/77279211498/in/photostream/" width="800" /**/div* 
*div*$nbsp*/div*

I've replaced the


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Stephen

The problem that I see is that you are trying to use a URL intended as a link to a web page and putting it in an image element, which will not work. Don't know just which images you were attempting to display. Additionally, you've got access locked down (i.e. This photo is © All Rights Reserved) so only you have access to the information to create a direct link to your image files. The following is the URL you were using, which I used to create a link to your Flickr album web page.

Flickr - Stephen Kazoo's Photostream link[/b]


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The LGB sound card was designed for the chuff to have a signal from the axle of the engine. In the mogul, the rear axle has the electronic circuit and needs power and ground wires. A third wire is the signal that goes to the sound board so voltage triggering of the 'chuff' is not done. 

In the diagrams above, the unused 3 wire connector is where the chuff wires are attached and need to go to the 6 pin cable to the engine. The board in your engine just passes these 3 wires to another set of 3 wires that go to the module at the rear axle. And the rear axle has a rectangular plate that is used to interrupt the sensors and creates 2 chuffs per revolution.


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

Dan , this engine has the newer round magnet on the rear axle. Not the older metal rectangular plate.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

SteveC 

I have made all diagrams available to all. How would you suggest my line should read since I think I wrote it exactly as written in the the instruction sheet.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Stephen

Since I am not you and cannot log-in as the Flickr account holder. The only way I have now found to pick up the direct URL to your images is using the following procedure, while this works for me I have no way of knowing if; 1) It will work for you when logged-in or 2) There is a simpler method available to you as the account holder. Hope the following is found to be of help to you.








[*] Starting on the Flickr photostream page where you see all the images as thumbnail images.










[*] Click the desired image (see arrow #1 above image).










[*] After the single image page displays, right-click the image.
[*] Point to and click the desired image size (see arrow #1 above image).










[*] After the page refreshes and displays the desired image size.

[*] Using MS/Internet Explorer-9
[*] Right-click the displayed image and then click *Properties* on the context menu (see arrow #1 above image).










[*] After the Properties page displays copy the text displayed in the *Address (URL):* field (see arrow #1 above image).
[*] This is the URL that you want to use in the HTML template file, to replace the URL place holder. Which looks like the following example (Note, I left off the http:// in the example so it would not execute as a link).

farm9.staticflickr.com/8288/7745089298_87408d9e9f_c.jpg

[*] The image(s) will be displayed in the MLS editor's message content area and your posted reply, after following the procedure described in the *FAQ - As a Standard Member how do I use the Rich-text/HTML Editor?* (see below image.)









[/list][/list] If you would like a copy of the above for future reference, click the link below and after the PDF document displays save a copy.

MLS Flickr Image Posting As a Standard Member (PDF 504KB)[/b]


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## TheRoundHouseRnR (Jul 15, 2012)

I was wondering how you are making out. 
On your diagram above you have P4 marked with a question mark. This 3 pin plug is the one coming from the hall effect(chuff sensor) on the rear axle of the loco. This needs to be plugged into the boiler PC Card. On your drawing it comes off as you dont know what its for so you didnt plug it in. 

Same goes for P1. Its the chuff sensor and needs to be plugged into the sound board. 

Hope your having fun and got this all figured out by now. 
The Roundhouse RnR


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

RoundHouseRnR 

Haven't had a lot of time this week to work on the problem. Here's what I have found out. I disassembled the loco, located the chuff sensor and traced out the circuitry. It is as shown in the above diagram and all connectors are plugged in, connecting the sensor all the way to the sound card input. See physical description below. 

By the way, thanks to Steve C for providing access to my photos. I think I have solved that problem, will deal with it later. 

As to modifications to the boiler card and other locomotive circuitry, I removed the bottom cover plate of the loco and removed all of the brushes to the drive wheels and the connecting circuitry, I then removed the top cover plate. The chuff sensor sits on the rear axle and goes to a connector on the boiler PC card labeled "Takt", German for timing I think. On the backside of the card another three wire ribbon cable is soldered which leads out to the six pin connector which goes to the tender connector on the tender PC card. That connector has another 3 wire ribbon cable and 3 pin connector which plugs into the LGB sound card. Whew! 

I verified continuity of the above. Then I powered up and measured the voltage across the 3 pins. The voltage reads 9.4vdc across the two outside pins and 2.0vdc between the center pin and one outside pin. 7.4vdc was measured between the center pin and the other outside pin. This same voltage was measured at both ends of the cable string. i.e. the sound card input and the chuff sensor. The same voltage was measured at zero throttle, minimum throttle (the firebox lights begin to flash), half and full throttle. Through all of this there was no change in sound output, that is no chuffing. 

The only question I can think to ask is, is this the correct voltage? 

There are four pins on the boiler circuit card which feed power to the motor and the flicker circuitry. They are labeled ge (geld in German, actually yellow), ws (weisz = white), br (braun = brown), and gn (grun = green). The green and yellow wires feed the motor and the white/brown wires input power to the flicker circuitry. They are connected together as shown in the diagram since there is no longer any track power pickups. 

Also on the boiler card are two wires (labeled L1) going to the front light and two going to the smoke generator (labeled "dampf"= steam). I have disconnected the smoke generator wiring. 

There are also some unknowns on this card. There are 3 pins labeled 24v, F1, and Gnd. They go to the blue 6 pin connector on this card. Don't know where the other 3 pins go or their purpose. Also, there is a DIP switch (4 circuit) the purpose of which I do not know. Trying to keep a little humor here. 

Hope you or anyone else can make sense of this as I really don't want to spend anymore money on this, besides I'm stubborn.

stephen


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The dip switch is for adding LGB's MTS 55020 or 55021 board for digital control. It separates the motor from track power to allow the digital board to control the motor. 

F1 is function 1 and can be used for digital to control the smoke unit. 

Some info is in the engine pamphlet, more is in the decoder pamphlet. These can be downloaded from various sites.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

SteveC 

I use a Mac PC not a Windows PC so when I do a right click (really a control click on the Mac) "properties" is not one of the options. So the address (URL) is not available in this way. However, after you have selected the desired image in Flickr, you will see Share as one of the Favorite Actions. See the second image in SteveC's reply above, right near the 1 enclosed in a square. In the drop down menu you will be able to select the size you desire and then copy the HTML code. Select HTML and paste this in your reply. Then go to Normal and you will get the image you selected.

stephenkazoo


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Stephen

Thanks for the reply and explaining how you went about getting your URL. When I first tried the *Share* button I got the same rectangular box depicted in the second image of my previous reply. Having gone back and tried again it works differently, I'll go back and redo the PDF and include your method as primary, with mine as secondary way.









Additionally, your way makes the displayed image a link to the Flickr web page displaying that specific image.


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## stephenkazoo (Aug 3, 2012)

As to modifications to the boiler card and other locomotive circuitry, I removed the bottom cover plate of the loco and removed all of the brushes to the drive wheels and the connecting circuitry, I then removed the top cover plate. The chuff sensor sits on the rear axle and goes to a connector on the boiler PC card labeled "Takt", German for timing I think. On the backside of the card another three wire ribbon cable is soldered which leads out to the six pin connector which goes to the tender connector on the tender PC card. That connector has another 3 wire ribbon cable and 3 pin connector which plugs into the LGB sound card. Whew! 

I verified continuity of the above. Then I powered up and measured the voltage across the 3 pins. The voltage reads 9.4vdc across the two outside pins and 2.0vdc between the center pin and one outside pin. 7.4vdc was measured between the center pin and the other outside pin. This same voltage was measured at both ends of the cable string. i.e. the sound card input and the chuff sensor. The same voltage was measured at zero throttle, minimum throttle (the firebox lights begin to flash), half and full throttle. Through all of this there was no change in sound output, that is no chuffing. 

The only question I can think to ask is, is this the correct voltage? 

There are four pins on the boiler circuit card which feed power to the motor and the flicker circuitry. They are labeled ge (geld in German, actually yellow), ws (weisz = white), br (braun = brown), and gn (grun = green). The green and yellow wires feed the motor and the white/brown wires input power to the flicker circuitry. They are connected together as shown in the diagram since there is no longer any track power pickups. 

Also on the boiler card are two wires (labeled L1) going to the front light and two going to the smoke generator (labeled "dampf"= steam). I have disconnected the smoke generator wiring. 


Anyone have any further comments regarding this problem and the information provided above? TheRoundHouseRnR, Dan Pierce, anyone. 

If not, many thanks for the help that was given. I certainly learned a lot. A special thanks to SteveC for the his help with getting images into these posts. 

stephenkazoo


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