# Aftermarket drivers, custom built gearboxes...



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Hello all, 

First of all...I admit it. Never scratchbuilt an entire locomotive before. I've fiddled with styrene before, chopped and modified a number of HO equipment with the stuff, but I've yet to master the tips and tricks of the medium. 

This said, I have the idea of building a 1/29th scale F40PH-2C shell and chassis embedded firmly in mind - and I dare say I'm not going to stop myself - but sensibility IS telling me to try fiddling around with an easier subject first. 

Call it silly, but I've got it in mind to copy one of the Shepperton Studio's own scratchbuilt machines: 









_EDIT: Picture reduced to 640 pixel width - paragraphs restored to message. -Kurt_ 

Growing up as a child with it, it is hard to resist, and I've always thought the design - especially the squared-off tanks - to be a good starting point for the styrene newbie. (Whether I'll still say that when I'm fitting the splashers...yet to be seen) For that matter, I always did curse Lionel's model as being proportionally incorrect, even as a kid. Rivet-counter's disease, I guess. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif" border=0> 

Now, all this aside, I've been toying with the various possibilities for drivetrains to start with. Aristo's Pacific drivers have the right "look", but are too large, Bachmann's Annie is out of the question, and besides being impossible to find, the original Marklin drives - as used on the actual Gauge 1 TV equipment - are overpriced. 
Being that I'm not too familiar with availability of G-gauge parts, are aftermarket drivers available for custom jobs such as this? Who would carry them? 

The other question I had in mind is whether it would be feasible to cut apart a small electrical project box to utilize as a drivetrain; personally, I still have trouble with the idea of a chassis scratchbuilt from styrene - I keep envisioning too much potential lateral flex without it being entirely rigid. Am I just imagining things here? I've seen a few examples on this forum already, but I'm still a skeptic... 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------



## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

Could I suggest an easy route? I make all my own stuff (not because I am a cheapskate -despite my wife's claims) but because I enjoy it. Have a look at the home page and examine the section "Kitchen Sink Engineering". 

Other places to look are: 

*GRS* http://www.grsuk.com/index.asp?info/welcome.htm 
*IP Engineering* http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/ 
*Brandbright* http://www.brandbright.co.uk/catindex.htm 

regards 

ralph


----------



## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Kurt, 

Check out Hartland's web site, they have 3 different driver sizes, gearbox and motors as well as motor bricks. These parts where used in some of the master class engine builds. The larger wheels should be close to what your looking for. 

chuckger


----------



## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I've wondered about building a Thomas as the Lionell ones are really old and getting hard to repair. 

I think the Aristo gear boxes would be great for scratchbuilding and bashing, but I haven't tried them.


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Kurt, 
Besides Ralph's links, the GIMRA has a page of links ( www.gaugeone.org links page) and many of them sell wheels. 
GRS UK have a range of chassis and motor/gearbox parts that might help. Cumberland Model Engineering (Dave Queener) have some nice wheels. 

But it does occur to me that you've got a slight scale problem. The original locos (both the ones that the stories were based on and the stories themselves,) were standard gauge. Are you planning to go to 1:32nd scale? Or 1/29th, or some vague scale like the Lionel ones that are falling apart - and proportionally incorrect because of the scale problem? 
I couldn't find a decent prototype photo, but here's the Hornby model that was repainted to make their 'Thomas"


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Thanks all for the links. Didn't find many who detailed their lineup of wheels 

But it does occur to me that you've got a slight scale problem. The original locos (both the ones that the stories were based on and the stories themselves,) were standard gauge. Are you planning to go to 1:32nd scale? Or 1/29th, or some vague scale like the Lionel ones that are falling apart - and proportionally incorrect because of the scale problem? 

I intend to build them to match their original scale - indeed, Gauge 1/standard gauge. No sense in ruining the proportions, for that is exactly what I intend to avoid with the build. 

No sense in overlooking parts from 1/32nd or 1:29th if they can be adapted though, I say - hence the idea of possibly using the Aristo Pacific brick with Mikado drivers. 
Posted By chuckger on 04/02/2008 5:06 AM 
Hi Kurt, 
Check out Hartland's web site, they have 3 different driver sizes, gearbox and motors as well as motor bricks. These parts where used in some of the master class engine builds. The larger wheels should be close to what your looking for. 
chuckger 


Would that be http://www.h-l-w.com/? Just curious, because it doesn't look it. 
-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

...but here's the Hornby model that was repainted to make their 'Thomas" 










Sorry to say, that isn't the case. All the original models were styrene on a modified Marklin chassis. (That said, there is a photo from the same Model Railroad Constructor article that the Thomas photos came from that show the staging of a scene with a stock Marklin DR tank unit. 

P.S.: Isn't that an OO model? Looks it. 

-Kurt


----------



## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Kurt, 

I copied this from HLW site 

Motor Blocks and Wheels. 

Economy Motor Block A great 12VDC block with light/pole. $30.00 

Motor & Gear Box Want to Kit Bash a rail car? $25.00 

Short Block A lot of power in a little package $35.00 

Large Block This is our big hauler. Used on our 4-4-0's and Big John's $65.00 

Comes with choice of wheels. 3 different sizes. 

Small (Red or Black), Medium (Red or Black) and Large (Red or Black) 
Last I bought parts Wheels where $5 each, contact Phil Jensen in parts Tues or Thursday PN 402-571-2933. The large block with the 2inch wheels plus an extra set of wheels should give you what you need. 

chuckger


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By cudak888 on 04/02/2008 8:18 AM
...but here's the Hornby model that was repainted to make their 'Thomas" 










Sorry to say, that isn't the case. All the original models were styrene on a modified Marklin chassis. (That said, there is a photo from the same Model Railroad Constructor article that the Thomas photos came from that show the staging of a scene with a stock Marklin DR tank unit. 
P.S.: Isn't that an OO model? Looks it. 
-Kurt




Kurt, 

That is indeed the OO model - that Hornby repainted to make their OO "Thomas"./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/cry.gif 

Sorry - I didn't realise you were set on making a model like the one used by the TV series. I thought any old "Thomas" would do! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Kurt, 
I was poking around some of the UK sites and noticed this little loco: 










Although the bodywork isn't any use, the chassis might be pretty close to a 1/32 or 1/29th version of your 'Thomas'. It's available from Accucraft: http://www.accucraft.com/index.php?show_aux_page=125 

Another loco that has a possbly-useful chassis is the LMS 3F from Prestige on their website 
http://www.prestige10.webeden.co.uk/#/rtrlocos/4520332230


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Sorry - I didn't realise you were set on making a model like the one used by the TV series. I thought any old "Thomas" would do! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif" border=0>




That's all right - not many people are fishing about to do the "unthinkable" - build a prototypical replica of an entirely fictional locomotive from a child's TV series. 

Posted By Pete Thornton on 04/02/2008 12:01 PM
Kurt, 
I was poking around some of the UK sites and noticed this little loco... 





Sharp looking little critters there, if a bit long in the wheelspacing. Expensive little buggers there too - a little bit out of price range considering that I'm trying to cook up a reasonably easy first-time bash. I'll keep it in mind, nevertheless. 

-Kurt


----------



## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I put the drive wheels from a Bachman 4-6-0 under a Thomas toy engine and thought that it turned out alright. I wouldn't spring for the drive from their premium engine the Annnie, not needed. 

























I think that the proportions are good. Now I don't have a scale drawing of the prototype British engine, but I would suspect that the above model is probably oversized by quite a bit. 

Terl


----------



## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Please note that the Accucraft IoM 'Caledonia' is in 16mm to the foot scale - that is to say, 1/19th. 

Over here it's around $700 or so. 

The other site noted is a builder of very high quality Gauge 1 [1/32nd scale] models. If Kurt thinks that Maerklin bits are over-priced, he might just be loathe to fork out the £1200 [$2376.00] cost of the little 3F. 

Mind you, you CAN take our 17.5% tax off that. 

tac the griper 
www.ovgrs.org


----------



## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

I actually HAVE 1:32 scale drawings of Thomas and Toby -but Matthews' versions run on 32mm track. I have never seen the reason for buying a loco to throw away the bits that are not required -I would simply buy a chassis and graft the plasticard body work to it. The chassis that I used is the one from IP Engineering -the 6wd one. If I thought it was worth the effort (and was as durable!!!) then I would have looked at modding the GRS G126 chassis for him. The IP Engineering chassis has the advantage that the axles are simple lengths of 1/8th steel rod -and are easy to replace... 

regards 

ralph


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Quite amusing, and I must say, the Bachmann Big Hauler chassis seems as if it would fit quite well regardless of whether it was built to Gauge 1 or otherwise. Had considered it earlier, but I thought the drivers would be undersized - looks as if I was wrong. Fewer spokes in the wheels never hurt anything either. 

Could also bash the Big Hauler boiler into an early Pacific too. 

I'll probably go this route - inexpensive enough, even though I don't care for the Big Hauler drive. I dare say I can do something with the Big Hauler shell as well - nice little bonus. 

Posted By ralphbrades on 04/03/2008 8:45 AM
I actually HAVE 1:32 scale drawings of Thomas and Toby




Might you be willing to share them? I can always scale them down if necessary. 

-Kurt


----------



## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

OK -I have them scanned at 300dpi and 8 bit grey scale and uploaded them. You will find them here: 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sheila.capella/mls/ 

The home page is here: 

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sheila.capella/cabbage/default.html 

regards 

ralph


----------



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Over on the Aristo site, someone did a Thomas with some Aristo drivers, as I recall. Jerry


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Posted By ralphbrades on 04/03/2008 1:01 PM
OK -I have them scanned at 300dpi and 8 bit grey scale and uploaded them. You will find them here: 




Thanks, Ralph. I'll scale and print them out this weekend. 

Posted By Jerry Barnes on 04/03/2008 2:03 PM
Over on the Aristo site, someone did a Thomas with some Aristo drivers, as I recall. Jerry




Indeed: 

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/N1CW/JimH/DSCF0008.jpg 

Says he used Mikado drivers in the SD45 gearbox - didn't know the SD45 gearbox would accommodate the Mikado drivers - and the chassis looks about right (even though that particular model shell does rides high). Pretty much what I had in mind, except for the donor gearbox. Cheap and effective - and I dare say I'll be going that route. 

Thanks to all for their help. 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Terl that's a GREAT idea--my three year old daughter loves Thomas, and I've been looking for a way to put one on our layout without spending a lot of money. I even have an old big hauler around. Now I need to find a big enough toy...


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Hello all, 
Do forgive me for bumping this up, but I thought it would be a tad better then starting up an existing thread. I decided against Thomas - don't know why - and I went for James. Finally located a local source of Plastistruct - this is what I have so far. 

For better or worse, the only thing that will fit under him that is to scale and won't break the bank is a shortened Bachmann Big Hauler drivetrain - I cannot find a source for proper drivers except for an outfit in England that sells rough-cast wheels in need of drilling and machining. In the meantime, I've been watching the track-powered Big Haulers on eBay until something comes up that has an intact motor and wheelset. 










Unfortunately, the firebox came out just a tad wider then the model on the show - same for the cab. Can't be helped, looks fine though. 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

I'd say you're doing a great job there, Kurt! I'll be excited to see how James turns out. Keep the updates coming, please. 

Kenneth Rickman


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

I will keep the updates coming, though I can't proceed much at this point without the drivetrain. Not much to do on it otherwise, save for the drive, smokestack and dome (and the obligatory putty party). 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Large image of the above 



Can't say that I've done much on James since I last posted, save for the addition of his smokestack (cut from a discarded Sharpie pen). Have had no luck bagging a Big Hauler to yank the drive and wheels out either. Still seeking just the right piece of plastic to seize and attack with the file to serve as the dome. 



Oh, and for the record, here's the Holy Grail of drivetrains for this model: 














God only knows what Marklin unit those wheels were sourced from, though I'm quite sure that is the larger Gauge-5 model used on the show presently for interaction with the Narrow Gauge sets. 



-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Posted By cudak888 on 08/25/2008 6:44 PM 
Have had no luck bagging a Big Hauler to yank the drive and wheels out either.

You might try the Hartland parts section. Also, the Aristo 2-4-2 Rogers loco has 1.7" drivers, available for about $17/pair, if I remember correctly. That may be an option, depending on your budget. 
Still seeking just the right piece of plastic to seize and attack with the file to serve as the dome. 


Depending on what size dome you're needing, here are some ideas I had for my own loco... 
1. I found a bottle of shampoo at the local Walgreens which came with a free sample of hair spray. The hair spray container was a small cylinder with a hemispherical cap - perfect for my purposes.

2. Most drugstores and convenience stores have cheap flavored cigars which come in plastic tubes. The tubes have a nice cylindrical end, and although a bit small, they may be useful fomr some locos. 

3. I found a candy package, some sort of sucker I believe, which had a nice hemispherical plastic cap on it. In my case, it was a bit large, but again, that would depend on the loco. 

4. Generally, have a look around a drugstore, dollar store, or any of a number of other unusual places. Cheap toys, candy, and cosmetics often come in packages which suit our needs perfectly, and for a very reasonable price. 

James is looking good. It's satisfying to see an engine come to life out of a pile of raw plastic, isn't it? 

Kenneth Rickman


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

The Ariso drivers are a bit on the small side. I must confess though that the cheap-o Buddy L 2-6-2 doesn't look too bad. Drivers look about the right diameter, spaced correctly, and there is a spare set of drivers alone on eBay that would allow me to remove the blind driver from the center. 

That would also keep me from having to build my own motorblock too, but if the Buddy-L machine lives up to its name in its performance...well, you get the picture. 

As for the dome, I definitely considered what you mentioned. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any caps around the house that were suitable. Guess I'm out huntin' then. 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Kurt, 

Any progress on James lately? If you're like me, there are probably plenty of little things, but nothing that really screams out for a new set of pics or a post.. 

Anyway, just thought I'd offer a little encouragement.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Nothing so far. I acquired a pair of LGB 0-4-0 drives (one diesel, the other a Stanz) in the meantime, but with no particular reason for doing so other then give me some future project ideas. Percy, perhaps. 

I did happen to post a question about the driver size on the Keystone 2-6-2 sets, but after an hour of eyeballing, I've pretty much convinced myself that the Big Hauler wheelset and a shortened drive is my only option. I have a snipe bid ready on a parts locomotive, but I'm still not thrilled about using the blind center driver. Ruins the look, as if the lesser-spoke-count and oversized counterweights weren't bad enough. 

Funny thing, I found that the wheelset and drive on the Bachmann 0-4-0 side-tanks are a near perfect match for Bill & Ben. Not that I have any aspirations to do either of them - never cared for the characters in the first place, nor the TV models. 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Posted By cudak888 on 09/04/2008 6:32 PM
I've pretty much convinced myself that the Big Hauler wheelset and a shortened drive is my only option. I have a snipe bid ready on a parts locomotive, but I'm still not thrilled about using the blind center driver. Ruins the look, as if the lesser-spoke-count and oversized counterweights weren't bad enough. 
-Kurt

Something to think about... 

The Big Hauler wheels are solid metal, with a decorative plastic (ABS?) center on the outside. This can be removed, and spokes glued between each spoke which is there now. You could also cut/grind away the counterweight area of the metal wheel. If you're really ambitious, you can make a whole new plastic center. I'm in the process of this at the moment. Doesn't look any more challenging than any of a number of other aspects of scratchbuilding a steam loco, since it doesn't have to be functional or perfect, just has to look pretty. 

I don't know what to tell you about the blind driver, except buy a second parts model (or maybe get lucky and find just the drivers) and swap them out. That might be better anyway, since James is an inside cylinder loco, and you won't need the longer main crank pin. Of course, it can be ground down (just finished that myself), but swapping drivers is easier.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Got it: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260281352255&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=016 

Old version, but it'll do the job. I'll probably have to source out a second model, but that's just the nature of scratchbuilding. Of course, the proper wheel will no doubt show up on eBay sans the rest just after I purchase a second one of these things, but that's the way it is, isn't it... 

Good to know - I dare say a simple mold and cast replacement center might be just the trick. It also appears as if the larger counterweight can be hid reasonably easy in a variety of ways depending on its mounting. Sounds like this thing is going to be fun once I get my hands on it /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif 

-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Big Hauler arrived today, though I'm dissatisfied with the wheel size. They look far too big for James, even if I opened up the openings in the frame to lower him down. 


















On the plus side, I gained a running Big Hauler... 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

They are a little big but they're not too bad. If you painted them black they would look smaller, sounds silly but it's true. The "whitewalls" and the white dot really call attention to the wheel size 


Maybe the new Piko 0-6-0 would work?


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

They would be too big, even in black - mind you, I still have to grind out a bit more space to bring the shell over the wheels a tad more. It just wouldn't look right. 

I had considered the Keystone unit, but from what I hear, its drivers are larger then the Big Hauler's. Out of curiousity, I checked one of my LGB Stanz-type drives against it. Too small. 

The Piko wheels look a tad undersized from what I've seen as well. If I could only find something just under 2" (across the non-flanged section), then I'd probably be in business. There was a set of three drivers on eBay (with a BIN) a while back that were purportedly of similar measurements, but the seller didn't seem to care about confirming whether his measurement was the diameter taken from the railhead contact point, or the flange. 

-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

http://cgi.ebay.com/LIONEL-G-GAUGE-...oryZ4149QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 

Also just located this - and I'll put a bet to it that it is a clueless seller and a pair of O-scale drivers. 

-Kurt


----------



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

And these are probably too small as well 

http://www.usatrains.com/r20051.html 


did you look int the drive train for the Aristo Mikado? 

http://www.aristocraft.com/catalog/locomotives/2-8-2/index.html 

You could get a mikado drive block and cut one of the gearboxes out


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

As a matter of fact, it so happened that I stumbled upon the powerblock/drivetrain database on this site (where was it when I needed it? :crazy and it seems as if the LGB Mogul (46mm) or Aristo Rodgers (44.5mm) drivers would work. 

The chart specifies that this measurement does not take the flanges into account though, and as James is rather close-coupled with no more then 5mm of wiggle room to work with, I'd like to be quite sure before I go buying wheels again. 

I had intended to start a new post inquiring about the driver diameter + flanges of both of these models, but I haven't found time to get around to it. 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Kurt, 

I know it's been mentioned before, but HLW has 1.5, 1.75, and 2" drivers (38.1, 44.5, and 50.8mm, respectively) They also have a modular gearbox that makes it easy to build your own drive however you need it. It was used in the


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

I've thought of it, but are all of HLW's drivers in the old-tyme pattern? I realize neither the LGB or Aristo drivers are correct either, but I'd rather have a flat-ended counterweight and a reasonable amount of spokes in the wheel then the distinctly earlier styles I see predominantly on their site. 

Or am I only roadblocking myself? Do they make drive wheels of later-era patterns? 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

As far as I know, you are correct that the couterweights are all the same style. You might want to call and ask, though, since the full list of parts does not seem to be available on line at the moment. Also, it looks to me as though the centers are plastic, so some form of cosmetic modification might not be too difficult. Ther counterweights look a bit too large to simply cover with a piece of styrene, but it doesn't look too bad to cut them away and make new ones.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Well, I think you've convinced me, regardless. Now I just have to bite the bullet and find out how much this new stuff is going to set me back... 



In the meantime, I found the perfect dome donor for James in the shape of a promotional pen: 














-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Looking good, Kurt! keep up the good work. 

Posted By cudak888 on 09/23/2008 5:32 PM

In the meantime, I found the perfect dome donor for James in the shape of a promotional pen:

Funny how they disguise things like domes as all sorts of everyday items. It takes a trained eye to see through the facade and realize the true purposes of such items


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Posted By DKRickman on 09/23/2008 7:12 PM
Funny how they disguise things like domes as all sorts of everyday items. It takes a trained eye to see through the facade and realize the true purposes of such items " border=0> 







What is funnier is that I did not initially realize it. Pen had run out of ink, and I went to get another. Did a little sketch, put the good pen away, then proceeded to sit down and relax. 



I absentmindedly picked up the old pen while woolgathering, resting my thumb at the top of the round "dome." Right then and there, I realized that I had James' dome in my hands /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif . The pocket clip was immidiately snapped off, the black dome cap glued to the red pen shell, the raised portion that served as a transition between the dome and clip sanded down, and about 10 minutes after this brainstorm, the dome was glued to James' boiler. 



...now back to woolgathering. 



-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Those little moments of inspiration, and the creative energy that follows, are what make scratchbuilding so enjoyable and rewarding for me. It's also why I tend to take so long at a project, waiting for the next round to hit.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Just a little update: Three pairs of Aristo Rogers drivers plus a gearbox are on their way to me at present. We'll see how they work out. 

-Kurt


----------



## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

If thats an E2 I am a Chinaman, oh but wait....


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Try an entirely fictional 2-6-0:















-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Nothing much to say for James at this point (drivers were shipped out today), though I did do some work on Percy (mainly extending the front footplate properly): 











-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

FedEx delivered a little surprise today in the form of one Aristo Rogers drive gear + three pairs of drivers: 



















Short two axles (apparently, they're included with the motorblock, not the wheelsets) and the fixing hardware. I dare say I'll have to fashion a pair of axles (wouldn't expect Aristo to sell the axles separately) and contact Aristo about what appear to be special slotted screws (or washers w/screws) that hold the wheels to the axles. 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Do you plan on changing the counterweight style from the arc to a crescent? I'll bet it would be pretty easily acomplished with a styrene overlay, and possibly a little epoxy or putty to back it up.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Probably not. Too much work for drivers that will likely look artificially thick as a result. 

-Kurt


----------



## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

You might want to try it, just to see if the difference is worth the work. I'm picturing a simple crescent cut from .010" or .015" styrene and glued straight on top of the current weights. Yu might be able to make filler pieces between the spokes out of the same material, so that the new weights would litterally drop in and out, to compare the look each way.


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

I'll consider it, though I'm a tad more concerned about getting the special locking washers and screws intended for these axles. I'm crossing my fingers that the C-16 (seeing that the drive axle is not available from the Rogers, though the mounting is identical) axles are available separately.

Then there's the ordeal of getting the motor to sit right and not skip over the teeth (and make it serviceable, just the same). Sometimes easier done with tie-wraps then anything else







- case in point, a 3rd-gen Big Hauler I recently purchased for parts.

-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

New drivetrain build photos (moving everything out of the Aristo motorbox). Still need to get the remaining two axles from Aristo (from their C-16, in this case), and the axle screws/lockwashers: 




























Still need to drill mounting holes for the motor (it has a pair of tapped holes at the bottom), develop a sturdy cradle around the "can," and also allow for the mounting of the stock thrust bearings at each end.

-Kurt


----------



## Hagen (Jan 10, 2008)

I buy some from these guys, and the quality is fantastic and not too bad prices either.
http://www.slatersplastikard.com/Master pages/larger scales.htm


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

While I wait on Aristo for the remaining parts, I thought I'd put a video up of the motor in action. One of the fellows on another forum was concerned as to the possibility of skipping under load a-la Bachmann Big Hauler. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N9i4yjW1lE

While the video does not show any load being placed on the motor, I did try doing so myself. Glad to say that it does not skip - and that is without anything holding the motor down except for the hole bored in the styrene, no less. A very snug fit that seems to work well. 

I drilled two mounting holes for motor mounting screws in the meantime - the screws have since been installed, and should be visible in the video. If not, better photos are shown below: 



















-Kurt


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Hope you fellows don't mind the bump - figured I'd keep this consolidated to one thread: 

Progress has been made since: 

Took me a while to figure out the cheapest solution for power pickups - HLW's were considered until I realized that I could tear them out of my Aristo Rogers parts unit. 



















...now all I have to do is figure out whether its easier to buy and strip two more off of eBay, or go through the hassle of buying the parts from Aristo. 

Did a test run video to particular success: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn-aP2H0c50&feature=email 
-Kurt


----------



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Kurt,

Thanks for the pixes, they are educational.

I'm trying to figure out a way to pick up power from the track, directly, while not using 'scrubbers' ala LGB. (Though I will if I have to, or can figure out a similar arrangement.)

Since your wheels are metal, that's a nice solution you've shown.

Les


----------



## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Les
On the subject of electrical pick-up I have used the following system on 7mm models that have front and rear trucks in the past.
Assuming metal wheels,axles and frames insulate the drivers on one side by either bushing the axle ends with insulating material or cut trough the spokes, half at a time, and fill the cut gaps with a good epoxy. Wire one side of the motor directly to the frame. Insulate the wheels of the front and rear trucks on the opposite side to the now insulated drivers and inulate the trucks from the mainframes then wire the remaing side of the motor to the truck frames.
Voila!!! no pick ups to drag or clean. If there is a tender the same method can be used, the benefit here being a longer pickup interface withe track.
Just a thought
Bunny


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Posted By david bunn on 06/09/2009 10:15 AM
Les
On the subject of electrical pick-up I have used the following system on 7mm models...



Hello Les,

I've seen that method used on HO equipment before - tenders and cheaper locomotives. The only problem is that it leaves at least one side of each truck isolated, rendering the wheels on the isolated side useless for power pickup.


I prefer all-wheel power pickup, myself, even if it requires the plungers. Paranoia left over from the HO years (!)

I intend to stick with the Aristo piece if I can find more, and use them on the tender as well (provided I can find three LGB 67319 spoked wheelsets that won't set me back a fortune).
-Kurt


----------



## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Bunn & Kurt,

Gentlemen, my apologies. I forgot to mention that all my wheels are plastic.







Since my layout will be indoors, I have no issue with plastic wheels. My trains won't go very fast or very far, thus they should last as long as I care. Sorry.

Les

But, the brush solution is still a great idea, with applications elsewhere in a layout.....


----------



## xxxThomasandDBZxxx (Apr 24, 2009)

As always, your model is extremely decent. Looking forward to the face, buffers, couplings, etc.


----------



## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Your motor mounting method is identical to what Delton did with the c16 back in the early 90's. It works- sort of. They stripped a lot of axle gears in those days. What WILL happen is that the styrene will soften as heat from the motor transfers and the gear mesh will fail under even mild load. Even low voltage operation will still generate enough heat to soften the styrene mount plate. it will not melt, just distort enough to be an issue. Save your self some trouble and make 2 brassplates , drilled identically, and create a sandwich of brass/styrene/brass. Longer screws may be needed. This will likely solve the problem for this particular loco. The Delton c16 motor was exactly the same as you have , by the way. 

Jonathan


----------



## cudak888 (Mar 22, 2008)

Thank you for the suggestion, Jonathan. Sounds as if it is an easy cure for a nasty problem - I gather the brass sheets serve as a heat shield, correct? 

Might I ask what you would recommend in terms of the brass thickness? 

Take care, 

-Kurt


----------

