# Help on elevated roadbed



## beyond.logic (Aug 10, 2008)

I am developing a track plan for my garden rr. Track length will be 200 t0 230 feet in a (more or less) skinny oval or dogbone. Being that I'm a _steamaholic_ I want to install an elevated roadbed (24" to 30") dead level (for live steam) supported by 4x4 posts. I'd really welcome wisdom regarding low cost elevated roadbed design; thoughts on best width for the roadbed; solutions for designing/constructing curved roadbed; construction materials; distance between supports; and anything else that I won't think to consider.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Rob,
I sent you a message.
Send me an email and I will send you pictures of my raised track under construction. Lots of ideas in the photos.


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob

I am located in the Ottawa Valley in Ontario so maybe the climate is not too different from yours.

I built an oval about 40 metres (about 130 feet) long and about 15 metres (almost 50 feet) wide. The track is all elevated but I did include two short 1% grades due to the slope of the land where I built. The sandy soil is undisturbed (for at least the last 50 years) and is well compacted. I mowed down the field grass and built without disturbing the soil.

I used deck block on 6 foot centres and 4x4 pt posts well doused in end cut. The decking in some areas is just a 2x6 pt board where I build garden elevated to the height. This is narrow and I would not recommend it in the absence of a garden. A good portion of the oval is laid on decking 16 inches wide for single track and 24 inches wide for double track. The decking is built from 2x4 pt beams in a rectangular shape decked with short 2x6 pt boards set crossways. This has given solid construction for me though some would argue that 2x6 pt should be used for the beams just as the building code calls for in deck construction. All is assembled with #8 Robertson deck screws. The only problem with this is that pt lunber is rough and there is not always a precise uniform thickness between boards. A bit of shimming is needed to get all to align perfectly.

The curves are built exactly the same ... I modify the rectangular beam structure to fit the shape of curve I am looking for and the deck pieces set sideways easily follow the desired contour. My track is Llagas Creek code 215 aluminum which I can hand bend to to the desired curve. I lay out the track centreline on the decking and then spike the track through the tie ends (after drilling a suitable hole in the tie) every 12th tie using brown headed aluminum siding nails. Some switches have been built in place while most are assembled on my workbench and then placed on the benchwork.

I have also used ladders in several places but I reserve this for where I am laying industrial trackage at ground level - I do run a mix od aprky and live steam with mostly geared locos. I do not think ladders are the least cost way to build an elevated live steam track.

This method of construction was started 5 years ago and has seen the 6 month long cold Ottawa Valley winters. The frost heave has not been noticeable and the trackwork has survived well.

Regards ... Doug


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Reposting this for you to see too, think it applies here too. (sorry for double answering lol)


I have built 3 outdoor raised layouts in the last 3 years, each getting better and better. My latest one is in my backyard at my new house, I have not posted it on here yet (waiting until after this weekend when I can get some nice pics of the k28 with my new Canon EOS rebel XS (birthday present to myself)). I use all pressure treated 4x4's and 1"x4"x8' plus stainless steel screws. I am doing it on a semi budget.

First layout in 2007:











Second Layout in 2008:









Third layout in 2009 (new camera :-D):

















I was playing around with the apeture on the last one, just got a new circular polarizer filter and will post the full build details and materials on how I built my third track next week in this forum. 




P.S. anyone with livesteamers in south florida is welcome to come over and steamup, call/pm first though


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## David_DK (Oct 24, 2008)

Rob: We have made an elevated railway here in Denmark. We made a cost benefit analysis first, and decided that pylwood was an acceptable solution, where we were able to use allmost all of the material. Try to look at our website. The pictures tells everything. link: http://www.havebane.dk/?Bygning_af_Havebanen:Bane_2%26nbsp%3B%282008-9%29

The advantage is that you get smooth curves, and that the whole railway is one structure. 



Good lock with your project.
David Clement


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## donupton (Jan 5, 2008)

Hi Rob,
I'm in Calgary and am interested in building an elevated outdoor loop for testing locos. I have 600ft of outdoor track in the Foothills west of Calgary, but it is 35 minutes away. I am not interested in burying the posts because of frost heave problems even though we don't have winters like yours here in the "banana belt". I was wondering about using recycled "plastic wood" but haven't priced it, out for the decking". Have you progressed to the decking stage? 
Do you know Emily Kaldestad who is an avid live steam type in Edmonton?


 It is interesting to hear of a live steamer in Edmonton as I only know of 3 or 4 in Calgary.


SA# 2860


Don Upton


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## beyond.logic (Aug 10, 2008)

Hi Don, I don't know of any live steamers here in Edmonton either and I only know one other aspiring garden railroader but he's a sparky (poor chap). He's offered to share but I don't know if he wants steam oil all over his roadbed. 

I have not yet progressed .... period. But thanks to all the feedback I have received to my post a plan is starting to gel.


I have just received 240 feet of Sunset Valley code 250 and have a Countess on the way. I have a Ruby that I ran on sectional code 332 (follow link Rob's Ruby) and I'm now looking to build an expandable layout that can grow along my back fence (about 100 feet). The current plan is for concrete deck supports for feet, 4x4 posts, box beams of pressure treated fence boards, deck 18" wide (again from pt fence boards or pt 5 ply ), deck height about 30" ( allows for a seated steam up but also allows me to incorporate the layout into a raised garden as time and money permit (trains now, garden later). I will start with a small oval with 8' radius curves and extend over time. Eventual goal is to build the layout into an elevated garden and incorporate a trestle or two.


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## beyond.logic (Aug 10, 2008)

... and here is a link that will work (I hope)


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## beyond.logic (Aug 10, 2008)

... one more time ...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JF0mpohnto


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Mornin', All - forgive me for stating the obvious, but why do we have two parallel threads running about the same subject?

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

lol I almost posted a double answer again but Ill just put the link lol 


http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/view/topic/postid/103649/Default.aspx


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