# G scale ruler



## Trestle (Mar 8, 2010)

First and foremost I would like to thank everyone for all there help and information on my point to point line. Thanks again. Went and measured the area that I have to work with and as long as I leave room for the walkway and a bench I ended up with an area of 61/2ft x 26ft. This now gives me a few more options that I didn't think I had. My newest question is there a G scale ruler for making G scale buildings that is available to purchase online. 

Thanks again


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Trestle:

There is no single "G" scale. Depending upon who is counting there may be up to 6 different scales that run on 45mm track. That is the common track dimension and it is referred to Gauge 1 or G gauge.

The common scales for "G" gauge track are: 1:32 (correct for modern standard gauge trains), 1:29 (modern standard gauge trains adjusted for the wow factor, incorrect), 1:24 (Correct for narrow gauge in some other parts of the world, but some American style narrow gauge has been modeled to this scale (incorrect)), 1:22.5 European meter gauge (correct, but some American style narrow gauge has been modeled to this scale (incorrect)), 1:20.3 Correct for the 3 foot narrow gauge common in the USA. There is a scale for the Maine 2 foot trains, but it slips my mind at the moment, I think that it is 7/8th.


The scale that you will want for your buildings will depend on the scale trains (trolleys) that you will be running. Pola and Piko buildings are about 1:22.5 and I think that they go well with most of the scales. They are probably way too big for anything in 1:32.


I'm sure that others will chime in on this topic.

Scale and gauge are very confusing to those entering this hobby for the first time. Keep asking questions.

Chuck 


PS look at the thread by Mickey in this forum on "MTH Scale". The answers there apply to your question.


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

FYI - I don't like to post commercials, but I offer a program (_Handy Converter_) that might be helpful. It provides conversion of measurements to any model RR scale, converts measurements from any scale to another, and a bunch of other stuff. It's at www.StansTrains.com.


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

And the Handy Convertor is handy indeed.


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## sandbarn (Feb 13, 2010)

Trestle, 
Greg is right on. 
I'm a beginner also and had the same question about a ruler for my specific scale (1:20.3). I didn't find an actual ruler anywhere and the best advise I got was to use a CAD program to create a ruler of my own. That didn't work out so good. So I found Stans' Handy Converter, bought it and have used it several times a day (since I got started actually building a kit). It has been much more valuable to me than the $17.95 (including shipping) cost. Buy it, you won't regret it. 

Lloyd


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi,

Some time ago on MLS these very useful PDF's were shown, since I downloaded them they have been very useful - 'Thank you' to whoever uploaded them so long ago: here they both are, and shown as links for downloading - 


http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/peterbunce/scale.pdf and http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/peterbunce/scalerule.pdf


The second one has a four scales of rulers on it, print them out, check the scales, and if OK fix the ruler to 1.5mm styrene for your rulers, perhaps wrapping them then in clear plastic. They also have some figure sillouetes on the ruler sheets as well. 


Stan's program is also good,, and I do use it as well, though my computer is not in my workshop.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

A few years ago, in response to a friend in Sweden, I made up a couple of sets of conversion tables for measurements in all the common scales. They excluded Gauge 1/10mm, as they generally do not build structures and such for their tracks, but DO include 1/29, 1/24, 1/20.3. 7/8th scale was done in fractional inches, BTW. 

But since none of you guys work in metric it's a waste of time posting them to ya. 

Anybody who DOES use metric, tho', I'd be happy to send them if you email me via PM. 

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## hawkeye2 (Jan 6, 2008)

Follow this link to an eBay seller that has rules, T squares, triangles and french curves in most of the "G scales" as well as many other common modeling scales. Click on "See other items" to view them. The items are buy it now rather than auctions, the prices don't seem too bad and he combines shipping. I haven't had them in hand so I can't comment on them but I am thinking about buying some. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-22-5-Scale-12...wItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item1c0e66a8d7


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

You might want to check this out.

The Scale Card[/b]


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

check out 
www.therailscale.com


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

Posted By hawkeye2 on 12 Mar 2010 06:58 AM 
Follow this link to an eBay seller that has rules, T squares, triangles and french curves in most of the "G scales" as well as many other common modeling scales. Click on "See other items" to view them. The items are buy it now rather than auctions, the prices don't seem too bad and he combines shipping. I haven't had them in hand so I can't comment on them but I am thinking about buying some. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-22-5-Scale-12...wItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item1c0e66a8d7 

fassett stuff is cool I sell it in the store the only thing you need to to is fill in the markes with a little ink becouse the it is so clear it is hard to see . we have been useing a white board marker to do thia as it sticks in the grovies an wipes off the flat


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

I have purchased a couple of scales from denray and they are great!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Posted By hawkeye2 on 12 Mar 2010 06:58 AM 
Follow this link to an eBay seller that has rules, T squares, triangles and french curves in most of the "G scales" as well as many other common modeling scales. Click on "See other items" to view them. The items are buy it now rather than auctions, the prices don't seem too bad and he combines shipping. I haven't had them in hand so I can't comment on them but I am thinking about buying some. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-22-5-Scale-12...wItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item1c0e66a8d7 

I purchased a couple of his rulers, etc. on eBay. Reasonable price and just what I was looking for for when I get started on building building. But be careful which "G scale" you're buying.


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Ozark makes them in brass, many different scales. I have a 6" and a 24" 1:29 ruler from them. I use them all the time. 

Ray


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## Johnn (Jan 5, 2010)

Posted By SteveC on 12 Mar 2010 07:49 AM 
You might want to check this out.

The Scale Card[/b] 


Yes, I need to get one of these. It will be a handy tool.
Thank you,
Johnn


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## post oak and otter lake (Dec 27, 2007)

I've used The Scale Card for Z, N, O and now LS. The nice thing about the scale card is they come in credit card size to carry in your wallet so while you are browsing the toy, craft, hobby section or store you can check the scale of those "few" items that don't list scale. Especially good for Woodland Scenics "G scale" figures. 

Roger 
Post Oak & Otter Lake GRR 
Caddo Mills, TX


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## Camp5 (Nov 6, 2015)

try www.fn3inc.com


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Welcome to MLS Mr, or Mrs., Miss etc, Camp5.
Nice rulers, but maybe a little expensive?
Good luck with the new business.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Why don't you become a sponsor, or become a first class member?

We've paid to participate, maybe you should too.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

yeah,camp5,free website means free rulers for us all&#55357;&#56842;


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

I figured that several of the items listed here in 2010 were probably no longer available. I did hit one dead site but was happy to learn that Stan's Handy Converter is still $19.95. Being a simple person I decided to build in 1:24 scale which is much easier to convert in my head 1" = 2'. A little large with 1:29 Aristo and small for 1:20.3 Big Hauler but close enough for government work. Still going to buy the Converter. Thanks for all the good information and resources.


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## Camp5 (Nov 6, 2015)

Ok, guys I'm paid up until I die or turn 101. Now buy a ruler 
Ed


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Roflol!: D


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Oops! I tried the link again to order a ruler and got:

"This site does not exist within the LDAP database. "

With the site listed as:

"http://webapps.myregisteredsite.com/frozen-redirect.html"


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## Camp5 (Nov 6, 2015)

Don't know what the problem is. Am I posting in the wrong place or something?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Semper Vaporo said:


> Oops! I tried the link again to order a ruler and got:
> 
> "This site does not exist within the LDAP database. "
> 
> ...



Worked for me, this morning and now...

http://www.fn3inc.com/
John


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Took a while to load the page, but it worked for me this morning, too.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I'd have to agree that Stan's conversion program is very useful, especially for the few bucks he charges for it.

In the past few years I've bought a couple rulers from a guy I've seen at train shows (don't recall whether local shows or ECLSTS). My 1:29 ruler show his web address as: http://RULERS-of-the-WORLD.com.

JackM


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

JackM said:


> I'd have to agree that Stan's conversion program is very useful, especially for the few bucks he charges for it.
> 
> 
> JackM


I bought one of Stan's early converters probably 20 years ago. The lastest I have from him is Version 16. I use it all the time! Great product at any price.


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

A great way to tell newbies the difference between scale and gauge is:
Scale = you being 6' tall and you child is about 3' tall, then he or she is about 1/2 scale to you.
Gauge = we all start out narrow gauge and over time many of us become broad gauge.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is another source. I have one of the 1/29 rulers. Easy to read black print on white background.
http://www.rulers-of-the-world.com/


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## camper415 (Jan 18, 2013)

I ordered a ruler from Fn3inc.com happy to support a paying member


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I was considering purchase of a 1:32 scale ruler, but have some concerns...

Two of them are pet peeves of mine , regarding just about every ruler I have...

1) They ALWAYS measure from Left to Right. WHY? About 50 percent of the time I want to measure something from a point on the Right back to the Left. I put the ruler down with the Right end at the point to measure FROM and when I measure to the Left, to get the distance I have to do quick mental math subtracting the measured value from the length of the ruler... if the distance is a whole number, that is relatively easy... i.e.: if the measurement falls on a "7" on a "12" inch ruler then my math can handle the "12-7=5"... but if there are fractions involved, i.e.: like the measured value fell on the 3rd mark past the "7", then that is "7 and 3 somethings subtracted from 12 = ummm... ummm.... uh... no, it is 6 and some number of somethings minus 3 subtracted from 12 = ummm... ummm.... uh... well... what usually happens is that I then flip the ruler over in the hopeless hope that the scale will be numbered from the other end on the flip side. But, of course, even if it does have a scale on the other side, it is also numbered from Left to Right and the situation is unchanged. So, I rotate the ruler to put the "0" at the Left end, but the numbers are now upside-down and the last 4 digits are "h", "E", "7", "I" instead of "4", "3", "2", "1".

Is it impossible for ruler manufacturers to make the numbers go from Right to Left? Is there some law that prohibits counting from the Right?

2) Many rulers have only the first major distance marked off in fractions of the major distance (such as those rulers offered by the vendor here). WHY? Is it too difficult to mark ALL major increments in fractions too? I don't like having to put the ruler down on the starting point and then see which major mark is more than the distance desired and then shift that number to the end point of the measurement and then go back and see how many subdivisions are left of the 1st major increment and subtract one from the end measured point. It would make a lot more sense to leave that first major increment blank and put the sub-divisions in all the rest of the major divisions, 

But why not just mark them ALL with the subdivisions?

3) I noted in the photos on the vendor's web site that the 1:32 ruler is marked in sub-divisions only in the first major distance (see comment #2 above) and there are 12 subdivisions... representing 1 inch each in the 1:32 scale... fine and dandy to do that, but the 12th "inch" seems to be about 1.5 "inches" and all the rest are slightly less than 1 "inch". NOT GOOD. If your product really has that error, I don't want it.

I fear my comments are way too late. I fear that the vendor may have already manufactured a quantity of 1:32 scale rulers and to remake them to take my concerns into account would be cost prohibitive. Sorry.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Considering he (fn3inc) placed a nice size advert in the latest GR, I'm pretty sure he has some stock built up.
John


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Probably 30 years ago, or more, I bought a MUTOH clear plastic architectural type drafting ruler, that is marked in ⅜" (1/32), ¾", 1 ½" and 3" scales - two on each side overlapping, if you see what I mean.
I have found being clear is sometimes a great help when placing it on a printed plan to make sure that it is placed where you want it, so you don't have to keep moving it to see what you might be covering.
I think that Semper's idea of a 'reverse' scale is a good one.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Semper,

There are blades (rulers in laymen's terms) made that are exactly what you want........just not in the scale rules you are looking for. 

Back in ancient times when I was a die sinker/tool maker, I purchased Starrett Satin Chrome blades to physically layout dies with a scriber. Now this work is done with CNC mills programmed to cut the forging cavities. In the "old days", we used manual hydrotels and cut to "scribed lines on the surface of the die face. If you were good enough and had a very sharp cutter, you could literally have the scribed line peel away from the layout, a couple of thousands thick! Anyway these blades were set-up in different graduations....some in 1/32, 1/16, 1 inch or in .010 or .020 increments and you could read the blade face correctly whether from the right or the left. These blades weren't cheap then and they are still very expensive today. BUT, very, very accurate! A 12 inch long blade is about $75. I purchased my 36 inch blade about 40 years ago and it was about a buck per inch. Today they go for almost $400! I also used Starrett :shrink" blades. These were made in different shrink values depending on the material being forged in the dies. If it was steel material, the shrink value of 3/16 per foot was incorporated in the increments. You didn't have to compute the amount of shrink....you just used the numbers on the scale and the 3/16 shrink value was automatic. The dies are heated and the steel is heated as it is forged. When the forging cools and is cold, then the blueprint figure and the cold forging will ce exactly the same. The same holds true for aluminum, titanium, other alloys of steel. Different shrink scales for different materials. Sorry about the drift.  

It would be nice if the scale ruler manufacturers made their rules in the same manner.


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