# Mason Bogie kit bash



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

I the process of attempting to build a mason bogie from a Lionel 0-6-0 gold rush engine, a LGB spreewald drive and a 3D printer made 3 axle truck and an eztec tender body. Cut a second cab and using the boiler end made the 3 window mason bogie cab also pieced the roof to the proper side, shortened the eztec tender body and lowered it also cut down the coal load to fit and added real coal to it. Added rivets using Mirce aircraft rivet set, very easy to use and lay straight even though they are of the flat style. Added height to them using gel super glue applied with a toothpick and they came out pretty good. Decided on a paint scheme and will match my present passenger cars. Have cut down the spreewald chassis and added horizontal cylinders and walschaerts valving. Just got the cowcatcher added and fitted. Next will be the decking for both the boiler and cab/tender.


----------



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cool! Looks like a fun project.

Later,

K


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Got the cab, tender, mounting plate, cowcatcher and cylinders done now on to articulation,,


----------



## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

On the actual Mason Bogie, the driver wheels and the leading truck are mounted on their own subframe and pivot on a central bearing. Most of the electric ones I have seen mount the motor vertically and use its mount as the pivot for this structure.


Hope it helps.


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

*articulation*



Ironton said:


> On the actual Mason Bogie, the driver wheels and the leading truck are mounted on their own subframe and pivot on a central bearing. Most of the electric ones I have seen mount the motor vertically and use its mount as the pivot for this structure.
> 
> 
> Hope it helps.


Mine will as also just didn't have one of those chassis but did have a spreewald so that is what I'm using, just have to dream up a pivot for it and it will mount in the center of the upper top where the 6 holes are just above the center driver, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Moving along with the build I got the domes bases built and sent them off to the paint shop, also got the upper section of the fir box fitted and glues to the boiler along with the base for the boiler running boards fitted, the boiler has been fitted and sized and now time to turn my attention to the articulation part of the build


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Further progress on the mason bogie, boiler painted using cab light green and missed with silver over spray and the fire box I added rivets and colored both it and the smoke box with a dark gray metallic graphite. Pretty much most of the detailed fitting is done allowing a better look at the articulation suspension. which will be next along with the coloring of the running boards. Domes are done and screwed to the boiler with single 8/32 screw and leaving only the bell to be built and fitted to the top of the boiler. More to come, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Moving along at a snails pace the Mason Bogie is taking shape. Finally got everything fitted, what a pain, being as I'm not a master builder I adjust as I go along. Funny after fitting 1 piece and going to another when rechecking now the first piece is off a little more readjustments and so it went, on and on but finally everything is now fitting. Next is fitting the headlight and making the bell bracket and mounting, always touch up paint and the motor chassis has to be re assembled but the tunnel is getting shorter, more as it progresses


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, adjust and making changes as you go along is pretty much how I do it. Finished product looks GREAT. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Since last post I have got the headlight done and mounted + got the side gear in place except for the reversing bar but moving right along, ordered the Gscale graphics rail boss 4 and a charging (door way) board and still looking at mounting the batteries in the boiler, more to come, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

More progress on the Mason Bogie, got the boiler handrails done and piping for the sand dome and was done with 1/16" brass wire, reused the stanchions from the original Lionel 0-6-0 and was going to purchase 2 more to put 3 on each side but after reviewing the shipping cost I decided on 2 on each side. Received my G scale graphics R?C system and am looking forward to getting it install but first will have to make some more detail parts like the bell and the firebox but at least it is starting to look like something, more to follow.


----------



## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Well, 2 less handrail stanchions is 2 fewer places the boiler jacketing has to be pierced, so my crew would call it good and move to the next task.


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Got some piping done on the boiler and finished the firebox/ash pan, also have detailed the firebox a little and finally got around to building a bracket for the bell and as soon as I locate the bell I will finish it, oh where oh where did my little bell go? more to come, Bill


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Coming along very nicely.


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, the beauty is in the details, and you got it. If you want, can add the rod linkage to the bell holder. Not a great pic, but gives the idea, it really does control cut off and direction. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

*rod linkage*



Nick Jr said:


> Bill, the beauty is in the details, and you got it. If you want, can add the rod linkage to the bell holder. Not a great pic, but gives the idea, it really does control cut off and direction. LiG


Plan on it but still working out the details got to get the motor under power to see how much the linkage moves, have a tubing to use and it is the outer sleeve of the linkage and the inner tubing I have been able to tap 2/56, which I use most, being as this is electric and really doesn't need the linkage just doing it for looks so plan on the vertical rod around elastic cord, figured it would take up slack and provide the look, thanks much for the picture, Bill, but sure would like to remember what I did with the bell, LOL


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

While still looking for the misplaced bell I have gotten most of the shifter mechanism done still in styrene white but as soon as it dries up around here it will get some paint. Left to do on it is designing the vertical lift bar that runs between the shift leaver at the top and the side drive bar on the chassis. Am considering using round cord elastic that would give with the turning and side rod movements, got to get it on the rollers and see how much everything moves, more to come, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Update to the Mason Bogie bash, tested the operation of the reversing bar in relation ship to the reversing shaft at the bell housing and found very little up/down movement and very little front to rear, most of the movement comes when the engine is in a turn and that seems to more or less just flex with the turn. Not having the patience or tools necessary to machine parts for the vertical lifting bar I settled on elastic black cord and small crimp on fittings from Hobby Lobby to simulate the steel lifting rod and it seems to preform very well. The cord is stretched just enough to make it look straight and it puts up well with both side rod and turning applications. Both ends are secured with 2/56 Allen head screws which allow the grips to move freely and still looking for the bell, train show in a week might find one there. Being as the reversing shaft is free to move the shifting bar that runs from the cab interior to the long bar from the shifting shaft will be secured to the rear section of the boiler just before the cab in order to keep tension on the cord. Pleased with the out come so far and as with everything on this project it comes apart with 2/56 screws, just a lot of screws. At the moment I'm gathering parts to build a flickering fire box which I have built several and look really neat at night. So next step is getting into the wiring of headlight, smoke unit along with R/C and battery, more to come, Bill


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, the elastic lifting bar is a great piece of 'imagineering'. Anticipating the next installment. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Bill, the elastic lifting bar is a great piece of 'imagineering'. Anticipating the next installment. LiG


Thanks Nick, and for your help, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Still working on the mason bogie, got the port side piping done and the reverse linkage secure, and on the starboard side I got the reach rod installed to the shifting linkage it is secured to the side of the engine in the black part of the firebox and does not enter into the cab, all the piping and grab rails move forward to remove themselves from the cab this way I can remove the boiler, cab or chassis for repair. Everything is built with styrene except for the bolts which are 2/56 black hex bolts. Next on the list is the sand dome activation bar and pull rod, still waiting on a replacement bell to arrive. More to follow, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Got a surprise in the mail yesterday from a new friend who donated a beautiful new bell to the project, easy install and now all that is left for the top of the boiler is a new lever and control rod for the sand dome.


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Added a little more detail, put a coat of matt on the bell so it would match the brass domes on the steam and sand dome, also installed a leaver at the base of the sand dome along with an activation rod, think I'm pretty much done with the boiler detail except for the builders plates which I have been experimenting with and so far nothing has worked. Had some brass paper that I tried printing on from an image of a real mason bogie plate which looked good on regular white paper but wasn't dark enough to show up well on the brass, might use the sticker end of a 38 caliber shell cartridge, just have to see, till then, Bill


----------



## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

Perhaps you could do the printing on clear decal paper, then transfer the decals to the brass paper. I had a similar problem once in HO. Nobody made the black engine numbers on white number board lenses. Finally solved that by applying black dry transfer numbers to white freezer tape. Then cut the freezer tape to fit over the number board lens.

Just a thought,
David Meashey


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, much better match with a coat of dull on the bell. Looks great. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Dave Meashey said:


> Bill;
> 
> Perhaps you could do the printing on clear decal paper, then transfer the decals to the brass paper. I had a similar problem once in HO. Nobody made the black engine numbers on white number board lenses. Finally solved that by applying black dry transfer numbers to white freezer tape. Then cut the freezer tape to fit over the number board lens.
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the idea, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Dave, I took your suggestion and so far after a couple of tries I have a good print and placed it on brass/gold foil paper, going to let it dry over night and then laminate it and then cut out, I'll let you know how it goes, Thanks for your suggestion, Bill


----------



## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

My brain initially registered hutch in background as a building on the layout!



choochoowilly said:


>


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, builders plates look great. on30gn15: a very good idea about the hutch, Bill, will we see it on your layout any tie soon??? LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Well right now it's in about 5 pieces, good thing I made it where I could take it apart. When operating it, the motor, on test stand it had a hitch in it, discovered that one of the geared wheels was 1 tooth off easy fix just loosened front end to lower cover and changed the front driver 1 tooth. Then it still was binding on something that's when I found that the valve rod location when being run was being off set by the elastic lift rod string and causing parts of the valve gearing to rub on the chassis. So I relocated the valve rod location and today I will reassemble it and make sure it works before hooking up the R/C system. 2 steps forward and 1 back it seems, more to come, Bill


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, all part of build and kit bashing, I know you are still havin' fun. LiG


----------



## rdj6737 (Apr 22, 2016)

*A Wonder and a Beauty*

It is a locomotive of wonder and a beauty to behold. I love its color scheme. I wish I could see it in person, and so I thank you for posting its progress on mylargescale.com


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Like to thank Dave Meashey for his decal paper solution, worked out well, They could have been a little bigger but not something I can't do later Put the printed decal in a hot laminate machine for water proofing and thickness and applied with a dab of glue. While up there I made my bell rope out of twisted strands of wire and colored it with Jax pewter black. Being as the bell didn't have the long spread out activation arms that the original did I put so eyelets on the side of the sand and steam dome for the rope to go thru.


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, Pics please so we all can admire your work. LiG.


----------



## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill;

Glad my suggestion worked.

Best,
David Meashey


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, I like it A LOT. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Nick Jr said:


> Bill, I like it A LOT. LiG


Nick, as always Thanks, BB, still waiting to see your wine red car


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

I made rope from brass wire strands that I place in a drill and twisted. Wasn't to happy with the bell rope as I selected too small a wire to twist and didn't hang right, so I made another using a larger diameter wire and liking the results. Well since last post, I have been researching batteries and types and with the help of several on the forum have selected Lipo, reason being as hobby shops are far and few between in Daytona Beach, Fl. but one that has been around for several years and even thru the down town street redo is High Fly Hobbies. Primarily an R/C plane and car dealer but they have been more than helpful with my small purchases of styrene, brass wire, and paints and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems. Was able to find a battery that along with the Gscalegraphics control board, fits nicely into the tender section of the engine with room left over for their, GSG's, sound board. Have hooked up the speed control and tested and all I can say is there isn't any thing much easer, worked great. The only thing left is to complete the wiring of the R/C system, front headlight, smoke unit and want to put a flickering led's in the fire box, thanks to all with the help and suggestions, more to come, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Not a lot done but it's something I have been working on for a while now, numbering the engine. Time spent trying to select a number and how to do it, I settled on year built, which I have done before, and but still having problems on how. I usually use a silhouette machine to do lettering but the vinyl does like irregularities especially rivets. The vinyl is flexible but not to the size of the head if a pin, so I thought about spray painting but need a template that would adhere to the surface including rivets. After some research I settled on stencil paper for my machine. First try was great, not only does the stencil paper stay in place, doesn't fold over it's self, but is pretty sticky and weeds well. Still didn't sit down the best on the rivets but was acceptable to the point that over sprays could be dealt with after the fact with a small brush and back ground paint. But then with a brain storm I thought if the stencil was more flexible maybe it would contour better. 15 minutes in the sun seemed about right and firm pressure with my thumb on the stencil was all it took, only a couple of spots that paint crept under the stencil but not bad. Now it's not the engine anymore now it's #"19" Again pleased with the results and now working on hiding the wiring for the engine from front to rear. More to come, Bill


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, looks great, can't wait for next installment. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Thanks Nick, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Still working on numbering, got the smoke box plate numbered along with the sand dome, added some Jax pewter black to the bell rope and have made a plate for the center of the cab where I can run my wiring, sort of like a tunnel and is removable using magnetic tape so removal is easy. Have gotten the R/C board along with battery and charging board fitted in the tender section and might have room to place a sound board in there also, pretty small space. If I can do it I will place the speaker in the roof of the cab as I have used this location before with good results, more to come, Bill


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Well with the MIK challenge finished I think it's time to turn my attention back to unfinished projects, still on the burners is "old Joe" and my Mason Bogie. Before the MIK I was able to temporally install the R/C system which I'm using a gscale graphics unit, took it to a friends house who has a standup railroad and ran it, wow was I pleased it ran perfectly and the articulation worked better than I hoped, even negotiated 1100 S curves and switches, only down side was 1 turn I showed a little wheel slippage but think it was because of un even track and tight curve but I've added additional weight any ways, also looking for another traction tire wheel for the other side. Have managed to cram all the electronics into the tender area and left now is just cleaning up the wiring, after Old Joe is finished, Just headlight wiring to do, I think I will paint up a combine car for the Mason and that will give me a 3 car train and with the engine being 2' long that's going to be enough, More to come, Bill 
​


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, sounds like your test run was very good, glad you are happy with it. And nothing like coming close to finishing a project. Keep up the good work and keep us posted. LiG


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBmR0UNd4eA


Had a good friend around the corner from me that just finished a dead rail garden trackage and wanted to test it and being as he has no battery powered locos yet and I no longer have a layout was invited to run my Mason Bogie train there on 7-10-2020 and every thing worked great in 1 direction. had problems in 1 location running the other way as the 3 axle mason bogie truck seem to derail with the lead wheel wanting to clime the rail in a tight turn. Located the problem as the wheels were too tight in the bogie and there wasn't enough slop and being as the bogie is over 5" long it caused a problem, cure was swapping the wheels out for a different brand that allowed the the wheels to move back and forth in the frame and seems to work fine now


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Great paint job and great video. The Bogie looks great.


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

Thanks Pete fun build


----------



## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Good to see your Bogie in operation. It looks great and runs well. It was fun to scroll through your build again, I'm glad your photos are still there. Glad your friend let you run on his nice layout.


----------



## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

actually I could have charged him as he had nothing to run, LOL, thanks to Jimmy we both had a great day, fun time especially as it was my birthday, what a present


----------



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill, looks GREAT on the track and doing what it was made for. Keep up the good work. LiG


----------

