# Bending .332 Brass Flextrack?



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Can anyone point me to a source for the best method for bending .332 brass flextrack? I have the bender and the track, but need to know a few things. I am using Aristo brass track and 1' tie sections.
1. I am assuming that I need to cut the alternating sides of the plastic that joins the ties together so they can move, is this right (I'll be doing minimum 20' diameter curves).
2. Once the track is bent (I have a duo rail rail bender from Li) what do I have to do to keep the arc I have created? Will it stay that shape or will it eventually spring back?
3. If I have to secure the ties to maintain the curvature, will nailing them loosely (so they'll move if necessary) be a good idea?
If I have forgotten anything that might get me in trouble when I do this, please let me know as it looks as if my original estimate of 1200 feet of track is off by about 800 feet, so I want to do it right. 
Thank you.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Place the rail in the ties and bend away. You may not need to split the ties as the diameter of curve is not to great. do a section and then look at the ties if they seemed to be slewed then you need to cut them apart. Once the track is bent it will hold it's shape. Later RJD


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Once bent the rail will hold it's shape. 
Some suggest removing the screws that hold the tie strips to the rails, more true for tighter curves.... 
When you bend straight rails the outer rail will appear shorter, instead of cutting off the ends of the inner curve to make matched ends, slide the outer raill to mate with the previous section of track. Staggared joints are stronger and more prototypical, but you will need to add some rail to make up the differance on the outer rail between the end of the curve and the straight track it mates to. Use rail clamps to add that section of 'make up' rail. 

Reverse curves should have a straight section, as long as your longest car or loco, between them for reliable tracking of your trains. 

Are you plaanning on floating your track in ballast or securing it to a base? 
I float mine as it's easier to allow for expansion and contraction without it being secured mechanically to a subroadbed. 
There are many trains of thought on this.... I won't get into which is better, I just know what has worked for me. 

Funny how layouts grow between our heads and the ground... 

John


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Use a dual rail bender, Train-Li has an awesome one. You can bend with the track in place!!


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## noela (May 22, 2008)

Thank you so much. I appreciate the direction. 

MVC-548S.JPG 

Effectively, with the exception of the freight yard already installed, this is a 480' x 32" deck, with minimal grades. I hope to float the track and hold it with crushed granite or limestone, whichever is better. With very few exceptions, there will be minimal turnouts on the mains, and those t/o's will basically be within a 32' linear area so that the main runs will not have to worry about switching "accidents." I live in NY State and the temperature range is from -10 to 100, so I do bellieve that I will have some expaqnsion issues, but the longest straight areas will only be about 45' long. Do have some compound curve areas, but there are substantial straights between the curves. 
I have enclosed a picture of the current layout, but not sure if it will come through.


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