# Trackless shelves



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

What are you using for the centering guides on your shelves? While I wanted to use 1x6 solid wood boards and cut groves for the flanges to ride in, the cost was very expensive so I decided to use 1/2 inch plywood with 1/4 inch thick wood strips for the centering guides. Well this proved to be a mistake as the couplers drag the guides, both the arm on the Kadees and the Hook and Loop. Using my Table top saw, the 1/4 inch was about as thin as I could cut the strips. So now I'll be off to Lowe's to look at something like a metal sill plate that I can screw into place upside down. Problem will be getting one that is very close to 1.5 inch wide so the cars don't track too far to the side and into the support columns.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Just cut the flange grooves, that is all that would be needed.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Randy, what issues did you have cutting grooves for the flanges? You do state you have a table saw. I used mine to to cut grooves in my cabinets.

Greg


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Randy
I did use the wood lattice strips which are 1/4 inch thick and just under 1.5 inches wide. Yup the KD couplers do drag their hooks some. I use that feature to keep the car from rolling out of my vertical cabinet. And with a mix of KD and BM, it seems to work for me. I have also trimmed many of my Kadee hooks as they sometimes hit some of my switches...of course you could always use your table saw to cut a less then full thickness groove in the lattice, eh?

Jerry


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## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

I use 1/4" square strips brad nailed to the shelf, forming wooden rails / track. Nothing between the 'rails.'

A friend gave me several hundred feet of redwood strips he had left over from some other project. I just put a line where I want one rail, use my pneumatic brad nailer to fasten it down, then use my track gauge to locate the second rail and brad nail it down. No glue.

This allows me to change the layout anytime I want. As an example, I have recently added a standard gauge 'track' to one shelf that will allow storing my SG 45 tonner on 'track.'

BTW, since all my operational locomotives are battery / R/C, they can actually be operated on the shelf tracks. This is handy for loading them onto the carrier I use to take them to the outdoor layout.

Happy RRing,

Jerry


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

1/8" Masonite...easy to rip strips


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I didn't try cutting the grooves in the plywood thinking it wouldn't work very well with plywood. I think it would rip pcs along the edges of the grooves loose. To do it now, I'd have to take it all back down to cut the grooves now. Being the shelves are 20 feet in length, the dragging of the couplers causes the cars with truck mounted couplers to buckle.


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## Fred Mills (Nov 24, 2008)

If your Kadee coupler "Tails" are catching on your switches, it is high time you purchased a Kadee coupler gauge, and actually used it...

99% of the time when people complain of the tails dragging, it's because the couplers are set too low......if you do find tails that are low, but the couplers are at the absolutely correct height, simply use a pair of "Water pump pliers" to bend them up a shade.

The 1/8th" Masonite works great for wheel guides...it's inexpensive, easy to cut, and all you need to do is use carpenters glue to attach them to the shelf board....

Keep it simple stupid, is the way to go......

Fred Mills


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

When I first started making shelves to display my loco's I purchased aluminum track, was very cheap at that time. Since then I do as so many other have, simply cut grooves using a table saw using 1X 6, which in reality is closer to 3/4 X 51/2.
EDIT: If your KD tails are hitting the shelf, maybe your cutting too deep. I only go down 1/8" and only one blade width where the flange sits. I attached a pic with USAT couplers and one KD on a Ditcher Hope that helps. LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Same here, just cut the grooves deep enough to hold the flange, no problems with the Kadees.

Kadee uncoupler arms should clear rail heads by 1/8", with riding on a flange (no grooves) you should have about another .1" of clearance, so the distance under the Kadee coupler arm of a truck sitting on a flat surface should be no less than .225.

So an 1/8" strip between the wheels on a flat surface should be fine, and if the couplers hit, they are going to hit your switches when running.

So the solution is to use 1/8" strip between the wheels, like masonite/hardboard or cheap luan plywood, and if your couplers hang, you need to fix them because you should have had at least .1" clearance over the strip.

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Have a new USAT covered hopper..with #1 coupler set at proper 34" centerline...
There is 3/8" clearance sitting on flanges alone...


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I just set them on the shelves, easiest way to go.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I didn't want to EDIT the previous post again, but here is what I meant with just the flanges below the surface, the rest of the wheel sits on the wood surface, This should give your KD's enough clearance, if set even close to the spec. LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You kadees should have 1/8" clearance from the top of the surface in this case, or even a bit more depending on where the wheel tread is touching the wood.

Greg


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## derPeter (Dec 26, 2010)

simple and easy made..
greetings derPeter


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

derPeter, beautiful. we are like minded LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Grooves in 3/4" plywood, worked fine.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy, ply wood is pretty well adhesive between layers. I think you can you just flip them over and cut the groove on the other side? still use the lumber, or is it one side good and the other rough. LG


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

How about using plastic track instead of cutting grooves or adding strips between the wheels?

Would look more realistic and is cheap.

Knut


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, the shelves are done. At least for now. I don't like them. I wish now I'd spent the extra money for the 1/6 boards and cut the grooves, but I've wasted enough time and money. The plywood is anything but level even though there is no track and the hoppers weigh very little. I ended up using 1 1/2 x 8 ft screen cap from Lowe's for the centering track. $3.84 for 8 ft was pretty low cost. Time now to put the empty boxes up and lay track on the table.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Ya have plenty of head room above cars..

Add more legs buddy!!!!


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy, looks good and it's functional, can't ask for more. LG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think the room above the cars works good with "big paws"... leave Randy alone ha ha!

Greg


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