# Bachman switch stands



## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Anybody tried them out and what do you think of them? Later RJD


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I have one on layout for test, two more waiting for install.
Seem to be robust, look pretty good. Have enough parts to fit most situations I would think.
I like the targets.
Of course, you lose the spring function on the points, so need to be alert to switch position. I will not use one on a junction with my train barn since the train pushes the points over as it passes, then backs into the train barn without any intervention from me

Jerry


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I am thinking of buying some of these during Trainland's Memorial Day sale. Has anyone used them with Piko turnouts?
From the picture it appears that the switchstand includes plastic pieces that attach to the turnout point ties, maybe with screws. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I like how they come with 3 lengths of ties / throw bars, and that the targets are easily removed. I haven't installed one yet, but it seems to me that a lot of thought was put into the design. Great price too, IMO.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the info. I just installed two on my Train-Li turnouts. Had to modify the one tie and drill a hole to mount the second headblock tie. I suggest making sure the straight side of the point is up snug against the stock rail before drilling the hole. As Train-Li turnouts use a large throw. Later RJD


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

Just ordered 5 from Trainland. Hopefully they will be usable with my Piko turnouts right out of the box. I will report back with pics.


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## Tom Lapointe (Jan 2, 2008)

Does anyone know if they're compatible with LGB turnouts? (My "Watuppa Railway" uses the LGB R3 & R5 turnouts). Also wondering if the manual linkage would allow the use of switch machines; I'd like to have *working targets* on the turnouts that have DCC-controlled switch machines on them. Virtually *every time* that I've had collisions  while running multiple trains, its because a turnout was positioned *opposite* the way I've *thought* it was  (& my distant eyesight has never been great  to see which way the points are actually facing!).

 *Tom*


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## StanleyAmes (Jan 3, 2008)

Wayne

The PIKO turnouts have holes on the 1st and 3rd tie. The Bachmann ground throw uses the first and 2nd tie. You will have to hollow out the end and drill a hole in the 2nd tie. 

Tom 

The Bachmann units work fine on LGB turnouts. Some LGB turnouts have a hole in the 2nd tie for their ground throw and with others you will have to drill the hole in the tie.

Stan


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

OK, thanks for the info Stan. Drilling in the dirt! I can think of worst things.
Just took a look and see those holes in the ties you indicate. Stands should come by tomorrow.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Train Li and (I think) LGB turnouts also have holes on the 1st and 3rd ties. I like the BM stands for their 1st & 2nd tie mounting, because that allows them to work on either side without having to have the throw bar coming out both sides of the mechanism. The unused throw bar side adds a dirt entry point to the inner workings, and, well, it's unused. If manufacturers had gone with a reversible 1st & 2nd tie mounting (straddling the throw bar) from the get-go, life would have been better.

Oops, didn't mean to preach...


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

My Bachmann switch stands arrived yesterday and I had a chance to install one this morning with my Piko R5 turnouts.

*This is what the package looks like. As it turns out I did not have to use the standoff spacers or rods.*










*As Stan mentioned in an earlier posting, the Piko turnouts have holes in the first and third ties while the Bachmann switch stand uses the first and second ties.*









*Also, the first and third Piko ties have open ends for insertion of the standoff ties but the second tie is capped. This requires opening up the end of the second Piko tie and drilling a 7/64 hole on the top. To open the tie end up I drilled a starter hole and then cut and filed out the square opening. Thankfully, the ties are hollow.*










*Completed install*


















Since my turnouts are installed and not easily removed, which side I positioned the switch stand on was dictated by the location of any obstructions like walls or edging and the ability to access the side of the turnout to opening up the second tie end.

*I used my worst case Bachmann JS passenger cars to check the clearance. **They cleared with ease. Longer equipment may require the use of the supplied standoff spacers and rods.*










*The MOW crew admires their work.*


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for the pics and notes Wayne!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Guys;

Just so you know this is prototypical. During the 1978 clerk's strike against N&W, I was sent to the hump yard at Bellevue, OH. There were some cases in the yard where two switches were too close together to allow room for the ground throw to be mounted on one of the "inside" switches. The railroad's solution to the problem was to mount the ground throw beyond the outside switch and run the throw rod in conduit to the inside switch. I actually duplicated this on an HO layout by using a coffee stir straw as the conduit.

Don't see why this could not be done with #1 gauge switches. You would simply need a more robust conduit (aluminum tubing, perhaps) and throw rod (stiff music wire). Anyway, just thought you might like to know.

Have fun,
David Meashey


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