# Goodall valve not working on Ruby?



## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

Hello, 

So I have been testing my new Ruby #5 and all looks well.


I installed a MJ2 goodall valve.


It appears to not work? after 15-20 minutes of running I stop and try to use the Goodall Bottle to fill the boiler, I preload the bottle so water is squirting out. When I put the brass end into the MJ2 and hold/push down on it nothing happens. I have actually broken the handle off the water bottle as it appears to not pump water through the valve. I took the rubber hose off and blew out the hole, it appears to be clear of debris. I re-installed the hose. At one point I could not build up pressure and it appears the valve is "lettting" off steam. This is a brand new valve and Loco. By making sure the rubber hose is seated properly the losing steam issue has gone away. I can use the stock valve and it works fine EG no steam leaks on the loco.


It's a simple device - not much to fiddle with. Is the rubber (more like clear plastic) to stiff too let water in? Does it need break in? I initially used it installed in the loco and after running (per above) with the thought that the rubber/plastic and steam/air pressure would work. Since I broke the handle off the water bottle I tried using the valve cool/outside the loco and no water gets passed through.


Any Suggestions?


Thanks


Wayne


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Try taking the Goodall valve off the loco, hook it to your pump bottle and see if water passes by the silicone, which should be soft and pliable. It's best to have a pump bottle with a large piston in it to get past the boiler pressure.


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## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

Thank You - yes I tried removing the valve from the engine and no water passes through - I can feel the pressure building in the bottle and water squirting from the pump. I am/was using Accucraft's goodall bottle. 

The water bottle nozzle is clear - I can pump water out without attaching the goodall valve from the bottle. No water comes out when attached to the goodall valve inside or outside of attachment to the loco. It does not work either way. The only thing I assume could be an issue is the rubber hose around the bottom of the valve is too stiff but it is stock tubing and one would think it would work out of the box no?


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## steveciambrone (Jan 2, 2008)

Try to remove the silicone tubing then pump water through, from your description is still sounds like the valve has a blockage. You can stick a small drill bit or wire down the valve with the tubing off and see if it is clear and to clear it out. 

Steve


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Steve. Sounds like a blockage. If there is a brass quick disconnect fitting soldered to the Goodall, sounds like some solder blocked the passage. A drill bit in your hand will clear it.


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## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

Again Thank You all 

I removed the silcone tube and water squirts through the bottom hole so I am fairly certain the issue is with the tubing. I replace the stock tubing and water now kind of squirts through the valve but the engine will not build steam as it leaks out the valve when firing up. This happens if the tube is lower on the portion. when placed up high (like in the pictures of the valve) it does not lose steam but will not fill. 

Any one know of what tubing to use to replace the current tube with? Due to pressure and heat I'm not sure that "surgical" tubing will work (the tannish color tubing found at pharmacies. I guess I am also a gluten for punishment because I orded another one just to make sure this one isn't defective.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

I've built several of my own Goodall valves, and have always used the 'clear' silicone fuel line tubing that is readily available from pretty much any RC supplier. One thing, if you have another G-valve, try swapping out the little piece of tubing to see if it makes a difference.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Wayne, 
Welcome to the world of live steam. 
After experience you will learn what to expect, what is right and what is wrong. 
It is all part of the fun of running a 'real' locomotive. 
So much more exciting than putting a locomotive on the track and adding volts! 
Sorry, I don't use Goodall type valves, but as long as the silicone tubing is tight AND flexible it should work as the boiler pressure will keep it shut. 
Not sure what you mean about lower and high - the tube should (I believe) be the same length as the shaft. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

Thank You I have a hobby store local that does R/C. I will search there for tubing. 
Yes I researched this issue and it is a simple device and found out how to build my own. But being new to Live Steam didn't want to "break anything" 
out of the box - well I broke the handle off my goodall water bottle pumping so now it is too late. 

I will update at a later time when the new valve and tubing get here. 

Thank you again for your suggestions. It was very helpful 

Wayne


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## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

on the post that extends from the bottom with the hole - the tube is shorter than the extension (with the right angle hole) 
the hole is covered in the situation when it works but does not hold steam - will not build up pressure and water spits/whistles out of the valve 
in this case all I am doing is moving the tube up or down while always having the hole covered by tubing. Lower on the post does not hold steam but lets in water and higher on the stem holds steam but does not allow water to pass through (on or off the loco) 


```

```
http://www.silverstatetrains.com/MJ2-GOODALL-VALVE-Accucraft-Live-Steam-WATER-INJECTION-_p_194.html

```

```
 The link is to SST and the picture of the valve - sorry if I got the linking wrong. 

Actually - many years ago - when I was into G scale sparkies I was actually looking to get into live steam and all they had was the mamod (affordable) What a mistake and all that. Live steam is fun - and yes that is one of the reasons why I am now back into Large Scale and asking questions. 

I can pretty much say I am done with electric power especially outdoors. 

I will work this out - can't be too complicated and it does not prevent me from running (with the OEM cap) - just takes a little longer between runs. 
Right now with steam-up I can run about 18 minutes with about 10ml of water left. 

Once again - Thank You all for the input and advice. Much appreciated 

Wayne


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

A couple of our live steamers here in Denver have also had trouble with the newer Goodall Valves from Accucraft. It seems that the tubing is much stiffer than what was used previously on the valves. I have modified the valves by cross drilling the valve body and replacing the tubing with softer tubing. . Accucraft has quit drilling the hole through from one side of the valve to the other. You can see the hole doesn't go all the way through from one side to the other when you hold it up to the light. It seems to make a difference in the operation of valve and the pumping pressure required. 

Charles M SA#74


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Charles, 
I wonder if Accucraft's theory is - Stiffer tubing - therefor hole to one side only so it can 'bulge' just that side. 
With the through hole, perhaps it's just too stiff. 
Or maybe like the 'O' ring problem, where someone just fitted the wrong tube type for a batch! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Wayne,
this sounds almost as if the tube is too short. It should sit snugly in the groove. That's at least how I make my Goodall type valves.
Regards


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

I know that the modification does work, as I have two of the newer valves on my on locomotives. The valve wouldn't work when I first tested it with the original tubing. I had some of the original tubing replacements included with the earlier valves. I cross drilled the valves and replaced the tubing and was successful with that . Our Accucraft rep said he has had 3 bottles go bad beginning at about the same time as the new valves came out. 

Charles M SA# 74


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By weaverc on 22 Feb 2012 09:34 AM 
Try taking the Goodall valve off the loco, hook it to your pump bottle and see if water passes by the silicone, which should be soft and pliable. It's best to have a pump bottle with a large piston in it to get past the boiler pressure. 

Actually, for a given force on the pump bottle lever, a smaller piston will create more pressure than a large one, since the piston is on the output side, not the input. The trade-off is less volume per stroke. Basic hydraulics at work.


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## Seawhisp (Feb 16, 2012)

I contacted Cliff at Accucraft and he said they are having a problem with the tubing on the new goodall valves being too stiff 

He will replace my broken bottle and Goodall valve (they are out of stock at the moment on the valve) 

I am happy with this and very pleased Accucraft is standing behind thier products - this is customer service. 

Thank You all for the help 

Wayne


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I am happy with this and very pleased Accucraft is standing behind thier products 
Wayne, 

We're happy that Cliff provides such wonderful service. But it would be nice if they didn't make these kind of problem products.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

I wonder if they started using that clear plastic aquarium type tubing instead of the flexible silicon stuff??


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Silicone tubing also comes in various hardnesses - all the way from rubber band flexible to shoe heel. So it could be silicone and still useless.


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