# track design



## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

I want to add a small track which will be elevated on wood platform above the current track in my garden rail. I have a question about what type of split rail (at the joint shown in the question marks in the photo) I should order.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Unless you are running battery or live steam, the reversing loops at each end will require special wiring. Without insulated gaps and some switches (electric, not rail) you will have a short. Follow the right rail around the track. As it comes back through the switch it becomes the left rail. It can be done, but it takes some work. LGB made a reversing loop kit a while back. I'm sure there are others out there. The easiest and least complicated solution is the add track and bring the train back on a parallel line. This creates what we call a dog bone track plan. 


The diameter you choose depends in a large part on the type of cars and engines you will be running. Tight diameter curves (such as LGB R1), which is 4' diameter, are really best for short 2 axle engines and cars. I would say the same for R2 (LGB), about 5' diameter. You would have to use R1 for your switches as none are made in R2, that I know of. If you want to run longer engines and cars R3 (8' diameter) would be a suggested minimum. Many long engines and cars are not happy even with the 8' diameter curves. Some of the large diesels and steam engines and cars, such as USAt SDs and streamliners and longer freight cars require a minimum of 10' d or bigger. They look a little funny, with a lot of overhang, on the 10' d curves. I run them on my 10' d curves, and they would look a lot better on 12' or greater, but my track was in before they were available.

This is what I did for a dog bone with R2 curves on my layout In Denver.



















If you are limited in space for the curves at each end, a point to point might be a good choice. There is a gap in the track near each end with a diode across it. The train goes to the end of the track stops when it passes the diode gap and then a timing circuit reverses the polarity on the track and the train backs up to the other end and stops to then repeat the process. There are commercial reversing controls out there. If you look at both pictures you will see a red engine up against the wall. It is a LGB cog engine that is on a point to point. It connects the upper and lower loops, via cog rail on the climb.

Here is a picture of the cog on the curve (R1) bringing it into the station on the upper loop.











Chuck


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

Chuck, 
Nice photos. I would go with the "dog bone" rail as you suggested. I though my original design could save me time and effort but it seems the other way around.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Well....what is the track length your considering here? the middle portion... 

Dirk


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## mymodeltrain (May 14, 2013)

"Well....what is the track length your considering here? the middle portion... " 
The middle section is about 18'. The diameters of the end circles are 5-6'.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Ok...not that much track ... 

Got room for double track down the mid section than? 

Best way to go ...easy loop!! 

Hav-n fun yet?!!!! 


Thanks - Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Go with the double track down the center. It won't be that much more track and it will cost a lot less than two switches and the two reversing loop kits. You can probably buy a couple of cars with the savings.

As long as you are only running one train you can put the two straight sections up close, next to each other. No need for any extra space.


Chuck


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Should we cornfuse him with a gantlet and then invite the gauntletters join the fray? 

Naw. 

John


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Go with catenary power. This is like a third rail and can eliminate the reverse loop issues. Funny, i never see this suggested.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dan, I had never thought about the catenary for that. The cog engine in my pictures above got it's power from the over head.


Chuck


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Posted By Dan Pierce on 16 Nov 2013 04:14 AM 
Go with catenary power. This is like a third rail and can eliminate the reverse loop issues. Funny, i never see this suggested. 

Or boiling water! Has the added benefit of eliminating pesky conductivity issues too.


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