# Shadow box mini layout



## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Hello everyone.
This is my first post and it's great to be here.
Long time model railroad tinkerer...~ 25 years in N but never achieved a real layout. 
I'm now approaching retirement and a bit more time allows me to ponder some possibilities...especially since changing over to O gauge and G scale.

I'm a big fan of mini and micro-type layouts and, with limited space but great scenic talents (I'm a professional Horticulturist) I'd like to build a G small/mini shelf type, proto based layout in a series of table top and portable connectible shadow boxes...~ 18-24" wide and of varying lengths for an eventual around-the-small room affair. Considering space for light valances, foam foundation, height of tree and structures...what might be a recommended box(s) height I should construct? Any structural ideas are also welcome though carpentry is the bane of my modelling skills...again, trying to keep it simple or pre fab where possible.

Basic and KISS layout design is mentally complete; locos are cars are narrow gauge logging...Porters and flats...small backwoods rustic decrepit track critter stuff.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Pat in Maryland


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome to the forum

That's not an easy question to answer. Its really up to what you want to achieve. What I might recommend may not match your long term goals.

That said, given that the average large scale vertical clearance is about 9", not knowing how big your planning your background scenes, with 1" foam base and allowance for internal lighting above I would say your looking at a overall minimum 16"H, maybe 18"H better. If the display boxes are kept to 36"~48"L this would keep the boxes manageable for handling while still allowing a reasonable amount of interior detailing.

I kinda have an idea what you have in mind, a series of different portable box vignettes that can be interconnected like a modular layout? My best friend for ideas like this is a good sketchpad. It allows me to "think' my ideas on paper. 

As for carpentry I built a series of box shelves out of 1x12's with a plywood back and open on front. I used simple butt joining with drywall screws. If it was anything that was going to be highly visible I would have countersunk the screws, and if it was anything movable I would have used glue at the joints.

Have any sketches of your ideas you can post? It would help to have a better idea of what your goals are.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Welcome Pat-

I don't have experience in building mico or shelf layouts. I've often thought of building one, I think they are very neat. 

Here's a few websites I have looked at. Not sure that they'll answer all of your questions in detail. But hopefully they help the creative juices flow.

http://www.carendt.com/index.html
http://smallmr.com/wordpress/
http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/small-layouts.html
http://home.wanadoo.nl/reinoud.kaasschieter/railway/index.en.htm


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Vsmith, yes...that is exactly what I would like to accomplish, in 3-4 foot sections for handling and vignettes that can be expanded. No sketches yet. I'll likely do the same for my O gauge. I've been spending much time on many of the small layout sites, and even studied your wonderful micro. Thanks ewarhol, a couple links I'm unfamiliar...

Pat


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Welcome!

As to height, I'd think about the potential for varying height of viewers (from children to tall adults) and how that translates to the angle necessary to see the entire presentation without stooping. As I see it, this means the height needs to be much higher than that which accommodates the scenes themselves. Have you considered omitting any kind of "top?" Use ceiling mounted track light to selectively illuminate scenes.

For understructure, I like using grids built from pine dimensional lumber (not construction studs, which are much heavier.) For 24" x 48" modules, where portability and durability are important, I'd probably use an outer perimeter of 1" x 3" pine, with two or three cross pieces of 1" x 2".


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Hello Pat,

You're in Luck, Vsmith is excellent at making large scale trains do circles in small spaces.

If it's a shelf layout you're after, I will be starting construction of a layout that uses 22" wide modules that are going to be 4-5 feet long. I'll be hand-laying track and the scale is slightly larger than the standard 1:22.5 or 1:29th scale train. I model in 1:20.3 which uses 45mm track t represent 3 foot gauge. That means that I need more clearance than the standard G scale train.

Thus far, my track-plan has been evolving and I have had several design ideas, ut I keep changing my mind on what sort of module I want t go with. So I've hesitated putting up more posts until actual construction begins. I'm in college, so I have to wait for classes to get out and for my summer employment to start. But I'm happy to announce that construction will begin on May 10th with the purchasing of bench work materials.

You can check out the action at: http://www.clearcreekrr.blogspot.com

For updates. I think I'm correct in saying that I'm breaking new ground because normally no one does a shelf layout this narrow in such a large scale. Most people like to take their G scale trains outside.

I can't wait to see what you're able to come up with, perhaps we can learn from each other's experiences?

--James


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Hello James,
My property is 1/3 acre intensively naturalistic landscaped w/veggie garden and utility areas...I pondered outside trains but since I "do" landscaping and plants as a living and despite it being a perfect match my 52 yr old back and knees are about shot, plus that last thing this Horticulturist wants to do sometimes is work in my yard after working in "others" all day. I DO get a chuckle re the possibility of an elevated railway to help transport vegetables to the house :O...a chuckle as in "yea, riiiight."

Pat in MD


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

hello,

you mentioned logging.
in any of the "G"scales that would signify trees from two to three foot height.

the unfinished section in the pics is 60cm/2ft. high.


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

More trees in G-scale.










TOM


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, if the OP has limited space he doesn't have the model the whole tree, just the lower part. You can still model quite a lot in a limited space. The secret is to treat the shadow box opening the same as if you were looking into a TV screen. You simply cut off everything out of the view of the close up vignette you are modeling. 

The idea of the shadow boxes I like is that you can model each shadow box as a different part of the railroad. The idea is that the ends are solid with an opening between each box. This allows for a wide variety of scenes that can be exchanged or swapped out.


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

From a (an) near eye level view standing in the prototype, looking up I would not necessarily see the tops of southern pine but a forest of long, tall trunks, undersides and interior of canopy, scattered tops through breaks or edges of cut areas. I've seen some interesting modeled examples of this perspective in Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette as well as Narrow Gauge Down Under.


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

This is the type of scenery I foresee for the "boxes"...


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Can't post follow design images and message do to "security token" error message. Report feedback to admin blocked. Oh well.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Too bad, I would like to see your progress.
Happy Rails,
John


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Track plan is in the mental stage but I'm working from a series of old prototype logging line and mill photos. Obscure with anecdotal accounts of it's actual route, I'm using Google Earth, vintage aerial photos and in-the-field observation to determine where the track would most likely have been laid. Goal is to have something VSmithian; compact, micro mini, tight curves (what few exist), short cars...here is 1954 truck era aerial photo.


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

This pic shows the current location Google Earth. 
Yellow is the main line (now abandoned) through Town.
Red is my superimposed likely track which extended north/south, crossing the main at a diamond and entering the complex.
Any track diagram mockups or ideas are welcome.


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

This obscure pic, and the only indication I've found so far, is what lit the fire under my butt.


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

Bachman Porter and a few cars I've assembled as a preliminary attempt to reproduce this train and eventually lumber mill scene in compact micro/mini form. The Accucraft porter is a dead ringer so I'm not locked into brands. Long term, with some expansion, I might like to have the mainline run a short/critter train through the edge of the scene past the mill.

Anyone have any track arrangement ideas?


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## PKelly (Mar 9, 2014)

The Center of the Universe for my developing historical and model G scale world.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

This lengthy thread may give you plenty of good ideas for a modular layout.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36635

Andrew


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## Bill C. (Jan 2, 2008)

I always keep my eyes open for potential "trees" in the plastic flower departments of big box stores. I found these relatively flat ones in a Walmart in Virginia. They're not suitable for logging, but they don't take up much space on my shelf railway.


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