# Can brass and stainless steel track be mixed?



## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

I have brass track now for my starter layout, but in the future as I expand I plan on going with stainless steel (using DCC). Just curious if brass and stainless steel track can be mixed?


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

The 'starter set' track is typically not the same high quality materials as the after market brands. LGB track would be an exception to the rule. Stainless steel is a very good choice for DCC operations as well as the other types.

SS does not require cleaning as will the brass track and is certainly more durable. If it were me - I'd throw the brass track in a dark corner and ONLY use stainless steel.

I use DCC/battery power and have about 265 feet of nickel silver track installed so far. I used 6 ft. flex track and connected all of the joints with rail clamps. I have been a long time believer (no matter what scale you model), that GOOD track work is the foundation of an enjoyable railroad. That's my 2 cents worth...


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Sorry, should have said it's USA and Aristocraft track.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

ewarhol said:


> I have brass track now for my starter layout, but in the future as I expand I plan on going with stainless steel (using DCC). Just curious if brass and stainless steel track can be mixed?


yes.


you can use even some aluminum curtain-rails in between, if you want to.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks!


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Eric

If you are going to buy SS use that for your mainline and your brass track for sidings and storage tracks. If you mix them on the mainline you will have to keep the brass track polished for good electrical contact, which will not save you very much work. Brass on little used sidings will only need to be polished occasionally.

Chuck


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I've heard that the train can change speed slightly going from one material to the next, because they conduct electricity differently. I don't have any experience with it myself, so I can't say for sure if you will notice any difference.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Depending on your environment there may be some issues regarding galvanic corrosion at the connection points. This could be especially true in higher moisture climes or rails that get regular watering such as those near sprinklers.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

It is a potential problem, but as long as the metal rails and joiners are above the moist ground, OK for ties to have wet feet, it shouldn't be a significant problem.

Chuck


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Chuck,

I'm curious about your observation that infrequently used track needs less cleaning?

My experience in HO is that the less a section of track was used, the more it needed cleaning. Dust seemed to be the biggest problem I had.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

If trains are going to be run regularly on it , it needs to be cleaned. If it is used for parking cars with an occasional pickup, not so much.

All my track is brass, I have several sidings I haven't touched for years, just for show.

I also have two passing sidings, I only polish them when I bring out additional trains to run. Usually, I just polish the mainline.


Chuck


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Ah, so you are saying if you're not going to use the track (except for storage) it doesn't need to be cleaned? That makes sense.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

You got it! If it isn't used a lot, the moss fills in the gaps and looks like scale grass and weeds.

Here is a picture of my mainline and two passing sidings. To the left are seldom used sidings to and from the coaling and water tower.

It has been years since those tracks were polished.










Chuck

PS, for those asking about set train consists, here are two.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a pair of stainless steel switches connected on three sides to brass track . I got the stainless because at the time I needed the switches no brass switches were immediately available. They have been in place well over 10 years.

I pulled both this summer to change out the switch stands and found no corrosion at all and other than the color of the rails. I have seen no difference in performance of the track powered electrics when crossing these points.

One maintenance note; the switches are attached using split jaw rail clamps liberally coated with LGB conductive paste.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I started with brass, but quickly swapped out to stainless, bit by bit. After a couple of years, I noticed locos speed changed on one spot on the layout, lo and behold, one old 12" section of brass was still there. I don't think the speed change was conductivity of the base metal, but how well the power picked up from the rail to the wheels.

On how often track needs to be "cleaned", and how fast brass oxidizes, the only commonality is that there is no commonality... there are people who have brass track that keeps perfectly clean (oxidation) just by running, and there are people like me, where it oxidizes overnight, and in 2 days needs severe cleaning.

Every environment is different and there are no hard and fast rules. I made a layout of 3 brands of brass track to experiement... all of the 3 types were a pain. I tested 2 loops with stainless... and have been there ever since.

Greg


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the replies. My questions were answered.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

What are you going to do?

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Aluminum ;-)


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## Trainwreckfilms (Aug 19, 2009)

Currently I use. Stainless Steel, Brass and Nickel Silver. All work PERFECT for me! I use Split Jaw Rail Clamps to join different codes of rail as well as join all the rail.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Aluminum ;-)


LOL... Definitely not aluminum 



chuck n said:


> What are you going to do?
> 
> Chuck


I'll keep the brass I have for know, but will expand with stainless and eventually replace the brass with stainless.


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