# AML K4 Display Stand, thoughts?



## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

*Hi all, names Jordan!*

*I'm new to the forum and live steam in general, I just recently purchased an Accucraft/AML Post War K4. I have always loved 1361 and get to see her sister 3750 every time I visit the Strasburg Railroad Museum. It is my first live steamer, though I have some experience in 1:1 scale steaming.
* 

*First, let me start off with a question. Just curious, how do you guys like the K4 as a runner? I like running at prototypical speeds, and it is a live steam loco so I dont expect it to perform flawless at snail speed, but in general, how smooth does it perform on level track with lets say, 3-4 Aristo heavy weights at around 20-35 scale mph?
* 

*Side note: I have already ordered new poppet valves from Jim Sanders. From what I have been hearing, the Accucraft relief valves seem to weep. 
* 

*Anyways, back to the reason I started this thread...
* 

*So I was in a bit of a dilemma, as I wanted to grab a K4 before they were all sold out, but I don't have a track to run it on yet as I am in the middle of moving. So I decided to make a display stand for her so I can view her beauty every day lol*


* Here are some pictures, what do you guys think?
* 

* p.s. I don't have the K4 yet, it is in transit and should be in my possession this Tuesday*











*Drawer for Manual/Paperwork*












*Track with ballast laid*




*Hand made code 215 rail joiner * 
 


*TBRC GP-30 #816 takes #1361's place until she gets here..*



 


* Thanks for viewing everyone! Let me know what you think, I do woodworking on the side and if enough people are interested I might start making display stands to order.
* 

*Jordan *


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## benshell (Oct 1, 2008)

It looks great, that's a beautiful piece of furniture! Thanks for sharing.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By benshell on 04 Dec 2011 08:49 PM 
It looks great, that's a beautiful piece of furniture! Thanks for sharing. 


Thanks!


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi Jordan, 
A very elegant piece of furniture. 
That must be your main hobby. 
I was a little concerned by the first couple of photos, that stability might be a problem with 25lbs of loco on top, and then in the later photos I see that there are leg stabiliser extensions. 
Looks very nice with the track on, BUT are you planning on buying any other locos in the future that will also need stands? 
If so, how large is your house? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

David,

Thank you for your kind words!

Believe it or not, carpentry is just another one of my hobbies, though I have many! Cars, trains, and metal fabrication being my number one hobbies, though there is something calm and relaxing about woodworking...

I actually have many locos, for the most part diesel. All are DCC Battery controlled. The main reason I built this stand for the 1361 was because, unlike my plastic


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Jordan,
The stand is beautiful. Wish I had the ability to do that fine woodworking craftsmanship.

But, why did you not use non-slotted hex head bolts for the rail joiner?


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Bruce,

Thank you!

Ah yes, I know, I really would have liked to use non slotted screws. At the time though I could only find slotted screws.. After laying the track I later found 0-80 hex and cap headed screws on the Micro Fasteners website haha. Oh well, I'll make sure to order hex head screws when I start to lay track on my layout.


Quick question, would you happen to know of a smaller 0-80 nut then the ones available on the Micro Fasteners website? Although small, I had to grind each one down to allow the wheel flanges to clear.


Jordan


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Micro Fasteners make what they call "Scale" nuts in the smaller brass sizes. These are similar in size to the heads. Go for 00-90's if you have to order them as they would be more to scale.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Ok great! Thanks for the info


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 06:47 AM 
Bruce,

Oh well, I'll make sure to order hex head screws when I start to lay track on my layout.


Jordan 


Jordan,
You will allow for expansion and contraction though, won't you?
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

David,

Great point!


Absolutely! Each joint, like the ones pictured above, have slots machined into the rail not just holes. There are aluminum bars on the inside and outside of the rail (just like prototype rail joints) that are basically clamping against the rail itself. By keeping the screws a little loose, you can adjust the gap between the rails up to an 1/8"

With each section of rail being 16" (scaled down 39' prototype rail sections) over the course of lets say 20' feet, there should be about 2" give or take, of room for expansion/contraction. Which should be more than sufficient for southern New York, where we have pretty mild summers/winters.



If anyone is interested in these rail joints and would like to see an illustration of them, I could post one up as soon as I get home from work.

Let me know,
Jordan


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd like more info about your rail joiners. What I've done to represent 39' sections is just to cut the head and foot of the rail, but not the web. That way the rail remains in tack, but it still looks like 39' sections. 
How about some more info about the GP30 too! What a wonderful model you've got there. 

Craig


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow , what a beautiful piece of furniture you have built. With the K4 on display on that, it will be a work of fine art. 

Charles M SA # 74


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Craig,

I will draw up a quick illustration of my rail joiners as soon as I get home and post up a pic for you.

That is a good idea as far as cutting the head and foot of the rail to give it the jointed look! I was going to do something along those lines for this display stand to save time from having to notch each rail, but I couldn't find a thin enough wheel or blade to cut a desirable groove.


Thank you! 


The GP-30 is one of my growing collection of custom built diesels. It started off as a USAT Illinois Central Gulf GP-30. It is one of my most recent projects that I have finished (I havent even had time to weather it yet). Its based on a Southern RR style High Hood GP-30 but with a modern twist. The only thing I do not like about it is the top section of the cab roof. The prototype sits farther back than mine but it will have to stay like that until I can modify and re-paint her. All of my locos are painted in my company's colors (Taconic & Berkshire Co).


Its got all the works... front/rear independent ditch lights, front/rear selectable green/white/red classification lights, porch lights, dimmable headlights, Soundtraxx Tsunami sound system, and a custom radio receiver that I built so that I can control all functions by a NCE Gwire Cab. 



I have MANY more locos to be finished! Right now I am working on a Southern RR style High Hood GP-40X, Santa Fe style GP-20, CSX Style SD38, Southern RR style GP-38 High Hood and a Metro North Style FL-9 which I would like to paint in New Haven colors.

Locos I have completed are The GP-30, and a Springfield Terminal Style GP-40 (which is under the knife to update its electronics)


I have pictures of both and a current video of the GP-30 that I can post up as well when I get home.

Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Charles,

Thank you very much!

I actually just checked the tracking info, it seems as though UPS delivered earlier than expecting. Looks like the K4 will be waiting for me when I get home!!!









I will have to post some picture of her as soon as she is un-boxed and on the stand!


Jordan


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

I used a Zona saw from Micro-mark to cut my rail. I used both a 52 tpi and 32 tpi. The 32 tpi cuts a slightly thicker piece of rail out, and I think it looks much better. To improve the look of the rail joiners I would also suggest using a hex head bolt like previous posters have suggested. Here's two places to look. 
http://www.scalehardware.com/ 
http://www.microfasteners.com/ 

I'm in kind of the same situation as you, as I would like to have some super detailed rail joiners. I'm planning on making my out of styrene, and using HO scale NBW sets. 

How did you wire the class lights up? I want to do something similar to my locomotives. I'm assuming you found a Red/Green/White Led somewhere? Same goes with the headlights. I've got the old Sierra boards, and RCS in my locomotives so it might not be possible to what you've done. 

Sorry to derail the tread so much, but I don't often see much superdetailing from anyone any more. 

Craig


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Jordan, 
Nice stand. I like it. Be sure to post pics of your new AML K4. The K4 is a favorite engine of mine.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Craig,

Definitely, I will absolutely be using hex head screws on my layout. Those are great resources for them, thanks for the heads up!


And I know how you feel, we spend so much money in the hobby that everything should be as detailed as possible when it come to the locos and rollingstock that we purchase. The track to me is just as important when it comes to attention to detail as the consists themselves. Some people would think I was crazy when it comes to detail but everything has to be as prototypical as I can physically make it lol.


Thats a great idea, using styrene. I was considering styrene or cast resin joiners but I eventually want to have block signaling set up on my layout so material conductivity is key, which for me ruled out using any form of plastic.


The class lights are actually individual green/white/red LEDs that were flattened and super glued together to be the same diameter as one single LED. They are wired in parallel with the ground to each color going to my controller. The way they are set up is... when the forward green or white is illuminated, the rear red are illuminated. The same goes for the reverse end. As for how all the lighting functions are controlled, well thats my little secret haha sorry man









The motor control of the loco is set up basically the same as the "Airwire" receivers. The functions are all processed through a circuit board that I designed, etched and built. The only electronics on each loco that aren't mine are the Sountraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 decoders, which are only used for their sound. I choose Soundtraxx primarily for its real easy DCC compatibilities and its manual notching sound features.


And please! Ask any questions! You have no idea what its like having been in this hobby my whole life with not many people to share it with. This forum it great, its been a great opportunity to share my interests and love of trains with others.


Here is a video and some Pictures of #816 and #334

Note: At a few points in the video, I put the headlight and reverse light on dim. Because the dim function is controlled by a pwm signal the camera seems to pick it up and "flashes" the lights.. in person the light just becomes dim.






#816

































#334


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Jeremia,

Thank you!


She got here today, been unwrapping her and enjoying her presence since 7:30.

Pictures and first recations will be up in a few.

Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

The K4 came today!!![/b]


First off, it was a wonderful surprise receiving it a day early. But once I cut the top layer of tape off the box, the real excitement began.



* The packaging:* 

What a wonderful job Accucraft does with sufficiently packaging the K4.. I am not a fan of UPS to begin with, and have had many issues using them in the past, but Accucraft almost make the packaging bulletproof!.. 


The tender comes nicely wrapped. It even had two pieces of red yarn securing the wrapping to it.

The loco its self comes wrapped in many layers of foam paper, then tapped to a piece of plywood (and this is not your typical tape, King Kong couldn't rip this thing off the Plywood)The Plywood is then bolted to a metal carrying frame, which should come in handy when it comes to transporting the loco to steam meets or wherever. 


Both the Loco and tender came in two different boxes with the AML logo on the outside. Both boxes were packaged nicely in one larger box. 



*Seeing the Loco for the first time:*

My expectations were pretty high from the beginning, considering this is the most expensive loco I have ever purchased... But Holy crap! (I'll keep it PG) This thing is absolutely Gorgeous!!! Not to mention, ITS AN OPERATING LIVE STEAM LOCOMOTIVE!!!! The details are just outstanding! Its almost as though Accucraft took the real 1361 and minimized it to roll around on G gauge track.

There isnt a single sloppy soldering job on the boiler or any of the fittings, everything looks perfect, nothing out of place. The craftsmanship is A+ 

Maybe I am just over reacting with this being my first live steamer, but I am genuinely impressed! I almost feel as though it should be worth more.


*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.


Second thing, when I first took the tender out of the box the trucks were very hard to rotate back and forth. Not sure if any of you other K4 owners had this issue, but on the tender, where the bolsters of the trucks mate up to the tenders frame, both surfaces are painted. This makes for very stiff operation of the tender on a curve. so what I had to do was remove the paint from both surfaces on the truck and tender frame with a dremel, then add a little machine oil before screwing the truck back on to the tender. The difference now is like night and day!



*Final Thoughts:*

All in all I could not be happier! I hate to say this, but if I had to leave it on its stand for the next year I wouldn't complain (she sure is a beauty to look at). With that said though, I cannot wait to steam here up for the first time! (even if it has to be on rollers lol)




*Now for the big moment, THE PICTURES!!! *


Enjoy


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Those GP's look great. If you want to PM me we can talk offline about modern modeling etc. I'm working on building some super detailed turnouts in the correct 56.5" gauge trackage for 1/29. 
I've got a thread started about it, but it's buried. 
And not to be too picky, class lights didn't change colors every time the loco changes direction. Green is for a scheduled train with a following section. Red the following section, and white is an extra. I'm most likely going to just change mine to white as my timetable only has a few scheduled trains. 

Craig 

PS. If you want too, repost the pics of the GP's under something other then the live steam thread. I don't normally read the live steam thread that much, and I would suspect that a few other modern modelers don't either. 
C


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

PM'd Ya


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 10:36 PM 

The K4 came today!!![/b]



*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.




Well, I guess that's the difference between 1/32 Scale, and 1/29 Toy!!!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Nice pics. It really is a nice looking engine. Looks good sitting on the display stand too. I know the sparky version of the K4 by AML had some issues with the front trucks having a bit of paint which when scraped by the countersunk screw would gum up the works a bit and restrict lateral movement. Another forum member has a site which touched on this issue and the easy fix was to remove the pilot truck and scrape off the paint around the slot, then clean off and re-assemble. Could be a similar issue with the tender trucks?

As for the flange, it might be possible to contact accucraft and request a driver set and you could possibly replace the middle drivers?


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 06 Dec 2011 09:55 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 10:36 PM 

The K4 came today!!![/b]



*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.




Well, I guess that's the difference between 1/32 Scale, and 1/29 Toy!!!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


"Is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange" Could be in the real 1:1 world they come from the shop that way.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 06 Dec 2011 09:55 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 10:36 PM 

The K4 came today!!![/b]



*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.




Well, I guess that's the difference between 1/32 Scale, and 1/29 Toy!!!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada

Why does 1/29 always have to be considered a 'toy'? 1/32 is just as much of a toy as 1/29. I'm sick and tired of all of the 1/32 crowd telling me my 1/29 trains are toys. And yes I'm building track to the right gauge for 1/29 so don't give me that ****! I guess I shouldn't be to surprised though.... 

Craig
my little rant for the day.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By David Leech on 06 Dec 2011 09:55 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 10:36 PM 

The K4 came today!!![/b]



*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.




Well, I guess that's the difference between 1/32 Scale, and 1/29 Toy!!!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


Woaaaah Dave no need to be hating on my 1:29... hahaha

Not referring to 1:32 Accucraft locos, but every other 1:32 diesel and steam loco I have seen seems to be even less realistic than most 1:29 locos. especially MTH.. With their front pilots that are detached from the frame of the loco itself and fallow the the trucks path... All it makes me think about is a glorified 3 rail 0 Gauge train running on 45mm track lol


In all honesty though, if there was a larger selection of 1:32 products at an affordable price, and I didnt already have thousands of dollars invested in my 1:29 scale trains (which I have been collecting since before 1:32 became popular), I would probably model in 1:32 instead.


In reality, I could just space all my 1:29 locos and cars wheels and hand lay 1:29 true scale track.. That way its would be 100% to scale, and we all know, BIGGER is BETTER hahaha

Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 06 Dec 2011 10:15 AM 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Nice pics. It really is a nice looking engine. Looks good sitting on the display stand too. I know the sparky version of the K4 by AML had some issues with the front trucks having a bit of paint which when scraped by the countersunk screw would gum up the works a bit and restrict lateral movement. Another forum member has a site which touched on this issue and the easy fix was to remove the pilot truck and scrape off the paint around the slot, then clean off and re-assemble. Could be a similar issue with the tender trucks?

As for the flange, it might be possible to contact accucraft and request a driver set and you could possibly replace the middle drivers? 





Jeremia,

Thank you, glad you enjoyed the pics of the loco on the stand!



Yeah, it looks like Accucraft didn't take into consideration that the areas where there would be axial and radial movement on the tender and loco should be kept clear of paint. I haven't noticed any issues on the loco yet, but clearing the paint off the tender was an easy fix and it works flawless now.

Thant is a good idea as far as contacting Accucraft about the center drive wheels, I didnt think about that.

Thanks,
Jordan


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Don't be too offended. I know people who collect sports cars who fondly refer to them as toys. After all, isn't that what makes this hobby great? We can play with toys and at the end of the day, go about our other duties.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Charles on 06 Dec 2011 10:57 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 06 Dec 2011 09:55 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 10:36 PM 

The K4 came today!!![/b]



*A few things I wasn't too impressed with:*


First thing I don't like, and I knew this before buying it, is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange.. I understand that Accucraft did this so that it would operate on tighter radius turns.. But the Accucraft F4/5 has 10 drive wheels, and all of them have inner flanges.. I couldnt understand why the K4 was missing them. I'll just have to machine up a set of new center drive wheels if this bothers me enough down the road haha.




Well, I guess that's the difference between 1/32 Scale, and 1/29 Toy!!!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


"Is that the center drive wheels have no inner flange" Could be in the real 1:1 world they come from the shop that way. 




Charles,

The prototype K4's all have flanged center drive wheels, actually if I am correct (someone please let me know if I am or not), the Aster K4 has flanged center drive wheels just like the prototype... thats why I couldn't understand why Accucrafdt would do that.


Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 06 Dec 2011 11:44 AM 
Don't be too offended. I know people who collect sports cars who fondly refer to them as toys. After all, isn't that what makes this hobby great? We can play with toys and at the end of the day, go about our other duties. 
Couldnt have said it better myself!


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Aster did have some of the K4s with flange-less center drivers. I know of at least one, which was recently built by another forum member, did not.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Okay, sorry, no more poking fun at 1/29th unscale, ooops sorry scale, model railroad equipment! 
What is important is that the owner of any scale of model is happy with what he has. 
Unfortunately, manufacturers have to modify their models to fit the buyers needs, like overly tight radius turns to be negotiated, hence flangless drivers. 
Overall, I think that we should think ourselves lucky that there are so many manufacturers nowadays who support our hobby. 
We can always pick things apart if we want to, but the most important thing is to have fun. 
I actually want to thank Mr Polk for inventing 1/29th, as it has done me the world of good. 
Merry Christmas, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 06 Dec 2011 11:47 AM 
Aster did have some of the K4s with flange-less center drivers. I know of at least one, which was recently built by another forum member, did not. 
Jeremiah,

Thank you for the clarification! Was it an option from the factory? or was it a "if i get it that way, i get it that way.. if i dont, i dont" kind of thing?


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By David Leech on 06 Dec 2011 12:03 PM 
Okay, sorry, no more poking fun at 1/29th unscale, ooops sorry scale, model railroad equipment! 
What is important is that the owner of any scale of model is happy with what he has. 
Unfortunately, manufacturers have to modify their models to fit the buyers needs, like overly tight radius turns to be negotiated, hence flangless drivers. 
Overall, I think that we should think ourselves lucky that there are so many manufacturers nowadays who support our hobby. 
We can always pick things apart if we want to, but the most important thing is to have fun. 
I actually want to thank Mr Polk for inventing 1/29th, as it has done me the world of good. 
Merry Christmas, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
Hahaha its all good David, no hard feeling taken!

I actually find most of my enjoyment in the hobby when it comes to modifying my trains... Seriously, who wants to take their toys out of the box and just play with them?? When you can give it an extra arm and a leg if you desire!


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## JWLaRue (Jan 3, 2008)

Jordan,

Several weeks ago I received the same model AML K4 as you have (s/n #5) and the trucks on my tender do not exhibit the same issues as yours did. Perhaps an over site?

-Jeff 
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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By JWLaRue on 06 Dec 2011 08:24 PM 
Jordan,

Several weeks ago I received the same model AML K4 as you have (s/n #5) and the trucks on my tender do not exhibit the same issues as yours did. Perhaps an over site?

-Jeff 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); 
Jeff,

Not sure exactly, though I'm sure the same areas on my tender are painted the same on all.


Here are the areas that I took paint off and added a bit of oil.. The difference now vs out of the box is quite dramatic.


 


It gave me a problem out of the box, but I'm sure yours and many others are perfectly fine the way they came. I just wanted to give anyone else who might have had the same issues as me a heads up and an example of what I did to fix it. Though it wouldn't hurt to smooth off the surfaces and add a bit of oil as insurance for possible future issues even if you didnt have the same issue out of the box as me.


By the way, how do you like your K4? I havent had a chance to steam mine up yet. How does she run?

Jordan


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

If you look at the builders photos of a K4 (think pre-war and with the multi-stripe paint scheme) you will in fact see that the main (center) driver of the engine is blind. This was, it seems a common practice on the PRR, the M1a/b Mountains had the middle two drivers blind, the I1 "Hippo" followed suit with a blind main driving wheel and the list is probably more than that. 

There seems to be much debate amongst most Scrutinizing Pennsy Fans (of which I cannot claim to be) in regards to the reasoning behind this. From end of service photos, one can assume that most K4s ended up with all the driving wheels flanged. I know the 1361 has all drivers flanged, but the 3750 is not as clear. Another interesting bit is the style/make of the driving wheels on any one engine could vary depending on what was available in the shops at the time, but that's a study in itself!

The Aster engine was correct with the blind driver in the as-built scheme and metal work, but I would think the reasoning behind the AML engine having a blind driver follows more along the practicality of getting the engine round tighter corners.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

So for the Aster K4, which was the more common. Flanged or Flangeless center drivers? I know I have seen them with either one or the other. @import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## rbednarik (Jan 2, 2008)

I believe the flanged drivers were an optional part on the Aster K4, it may well have been offered after the production was finished. As far as I can recall, the kits (probably the factory built engines as well) came with the bilnd center drivers as standard.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

which I have been collecting since before 1:32 became popular 
Woohoo.. I could have sworn 1:32 was popular long before 1:29 came along. Like 50-100 years longer? And they were very much scale models - correct track gauge, for example. 

Sorry Jordan. Couldn't resist. Best of luck making your 1/29 more like scale models.


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## steveciambrone (Jan 2, 2008)

I think it would be more correct to say 1/32 is popular with a very small group of modelers. USA large scale mainline modelers 1/29 is the most popular. 

Thanks 
Steve


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By rbednarik on 07 Dec 2011 06:38 AM 
I believe the flanged drivers were an optional part on the Aster K4, it may well have been offered after the production was finished. As far as I can recall, the kits (probably the factory built engines as well) came with the bilnd center drivers as standard. 
Ryan,

Thank you so much for the shared knowledge!

Just to clarify 3750. After looking as some of my photos, as she sits in Strasburg right now, her center drivers are flanged. Not sure if they were changed at one point or could she have come from Juanita that way... sadly I am not old enough to have to see any of the K4s back in their operating days, which really is a shame..


Thanks again,
Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 07 Dec 2011 07:32 AM 
which I have been collecting since before 1:32 became popular 
Woohoo.. I could have sworn 1:32 was popular long before 1:29 came along. Like 50-100 years longer? And they were very much scale models - correct track gauge, for example. 

Sorry Jordan. Couldn't resist. Best of luck making your 1/29 more like scale models. 



Pete,

Thanks to Aristocraft and USA Trains, when I started modeling in G scale (around 1995) 1:29 was the only scale I had heard of, or that was being advertised in any garden railroad magazines. Although I would have to agree that 1:32 has been around longer, and with it being the only scale available before 1:29 came out, it's pretty easy for the only scale available to be most poplular....


p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By steveciambrone on 07 Dec 2011 10:01 AM 
I think it would be more correct to say 1/32 is popular with a very small group of modelers. USA large scale mainline modelers 1/29 is the most popular. 

Thanks 
Steve 
Hi Steve,
Now we are in 'live steam', and I would suggest that there are more 1/32 live steam locomotives around, than there are 1/29 live steam!
If you are talking more overall steam and electric, locos and rolling stock, then I would say you are correct.
But that's a really nice stand that Jordan built.
All the best and a Merry Christmas,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 10:26 AM 
p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan









Okay Jordan,
I'm sorry, BUT I have to correct you here.
You speak about prototypical.
4' 8 1/2" gauge x 1/32 = 1.76" (44.8mm), very close to 1.75" or 45mm model track gauge.
In 1/29 scale, this model gauge represents only 4' 2 3/4", so how can that be 'more' prototypical.
You may have super detailed everything, but is that the same? 
Also no hard feelings meant.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:00 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 10:26 AM 
p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan









Okay Jordan,
I'm sorry, BUT I have to correct you here.
You speak about prototypical.
4' 8 1/2" gauge x 1/32 = 1.76" (44.8mm), very close to 1.75" or 45mm model track gauge.
In 1/29 scale, this model gauge represents only 4' 2 3/4", so how can that be 'more' prototypical.
You may have super detailed everything, but is that the same? 
Also no hard feelings meant.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Not sure what happened there. 
I tried to edit, and it duplicated itself! 
But I guess I made my point twice! 
Regards, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:01 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:00 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 10:26 AM 
p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan









Okay Jordan,
I'm sorry, BUT I have to correct you here.
You speak about prototypical.
4' 8 1/2" gauge x 1/32 = 1.76" (44.8mm), very close to 1.75" or 45mm model track gauge.
In 1/29 scale, this model gauge represents only 4' 2 3/4", so how can that be 'more' prototypical.
You may have super detailed everything, but is that the same? 
Also no hard feelings meant.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada

WOOOAAH! So even 1:32 isnt exactly the correct gauge then... hmmm 

I think we are all looking at this the wrong way... It looks like I'm modeling on track thats too narrow, and you guys are modeling on track that is too wide! Looks like we are all just going to have to either start laying our own correct gauge track... Or just respect each others scales and understand that even though we are modeling in two different scales on the same gauge track, we put countless time and effort into modifying and operating out trains.


I came to My large scale to share my work with others and enjoy other modelers work. Yet ever since "someone" came out of nowhere criticizing my my models saying that "they are toys and 1:32 is the real thing" I have felt like I am on an Domestic vs. Import car forum...

Its not like I have been going around on other people threads with 1:32 content and stating that "my models are larger therefor far more superior" hahaha


Seriously, this is ridiculous and definitely not what I was expecting to find on a railroad related forum.


All the best,
Jordan

p.s. Happy Holidays David! I cant believe its already that time of year.. lol


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Jordan, 
Here on this live steam forum you'll find many opinions. I don't think any were meant to offend as I have interacted with these members for awhile now. So, if you were expecting everyone to agree with you then I guess your expectations were a bit unrealistic. 

Your stand looks great as does the AML K4. If it were not for my Aster Mikado, I would be a proud owner of the K4. I did not buy the Mikado because it was 1/32 and the k4 was 1/29th. For me, I am happy with a good running loco. It seems the K4 is exactly that from everything I have read and watched. You also sound like you have already been in 1/29th scale model railroading, so you have what you model after. 

Hope you enjoy the K4. Please post s video of it when you get it steamed up.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 07 Dec 2011 11:27 AM 
Jordan, 
Here on this live steam forum you'll find many opinions. I don't think any were meant to offend as I have interacted with these members for awhile now. So, if you were expecting everyone to agree with you then I guess your expectations were a bit unrealistic. 

Your stand looks great as does the AML K4. If it were not for my Aster Mikado, I would be a proud owner of the K4. I did not buy the Mikado because it was 1/32 and the k4 was 1/29th. For me, I am happy with a good running loco. It seems the K4 is exactly that from everything I have read and watched. You also sound like you have already been in 1/29th scale model railroading, so you have what you model after. 

Hope you enjoy the K4. Please post s video of it when you get it steamed up. 
Jeremiah,

I agree, and I always try to stay neutral when someone has an opinion. I want everyone to know that I have nothing against 1:32 at all! many of my favorite steam locos are only produced in 1:32 such as the Aster Berkshire and Accucraft f4/5. Just like you, the scale was not a factor in my decision. I chose the K4 because I have most steam memories with that loco. If Accucraft never made the K4 than this thread would probably have the title "Accucraft F5 Display stand, thoughts?" 


Its not that I want anyone to agree with me, I was just not expecting to find such a diversity on a railroad forum due to track scale.

Also Jeremiah, you say you have the Aster Mikado? I love that loco! infact I was originally going to buy the Mikado and model it after a 1:1 scale Mikado I have been helping restore for the past 5 or so years. I later found out that the boilers were quite different so I scrapped that idea... but how do you like it? good running times and all?


I will definitely post some videos up once I receive my order of steam oil from Green Velvet... I ordered it over a week ago and it still hasnt shown up yet. I called yesterday and they still havent shipped it.









Thanks,
Jordan


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 11:20 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:01 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:00 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 10:26 AM 
p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan









Okay Jordan,
I'm sorry, BUT I have to correct you here.
You speak about prototypical.
4' 8 1/2" gauge x 1/32 = 1.76" (44.8mm), very close to 1.75" or 45mm model track gauge.
In 1/29 scale, this model gauge represents only 4' 2 3/4", so how can that be 'more' prototypical.
You may have super detailed everything, but is that the same? 
Also no hard feelings meant.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada

WOOOAAH! So even 1:32 isnt exactly the correct gauge then... hmmm 

I think we are all looking at this the wrong way... It looks like I'm modeling on track thats too narrow, and you guys are modeling on track that is too wide! Looks like we are all just going to have to either start laying our own correct gauge track... Or just respect each others scales and understand that even though we are modeling in two different scales on the same gauge track, we put countless time and effort into modifying and operating out trains.


I came to My large scale to share my work with others and enjoy other modelers work. Yet ever since "someone" came out of nowhere criticizing my my models saying that "they are toys and 1:32 is the real thing" I have felt like I am on an Domestic vs. Import car forum...

Its not like I have been going around on other people threads with 1:32 content and stating that "my models are larger therefor far more superior" hahaha


Seriously, this is ridiculous and definitely not what I was expecting to find on a railroad related forum.


All the best,
Jordan

p.s. Happy Holidays David! I cant believe its already that time of year.. lol




Actually 45mm=1.7717 inches.









One of the narrow-minded guys in 1/20.3. TRUE 3 foot narrow gauge in 45mm.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Jordan,
My mikado runs great. Built it from a kit.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Gary Armitstead on 07 Dec 2011 11:47 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 11:20 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:01 AM 
Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 11:00 AM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 10:26 AM 
p.s. I bet my 1:29's are more prototypical than any 1:32's you have seen before. And if track gauge is an issue, give me about a week to space all of my cars and locos wheelsets, and I will be in a league of my own, and a scale larger than your tiny little 1:32's. It will almost be as if your 1:32's are just a glorified 0 scale.


no hard feelings meant,
Jordan









Okay Jordan,
I'm sorry, BUT I have to correct you here.
You speak about prototypical.
4' 8 1/2" gauge x 1/32 = 1.76" (44.8mm), very close to 1.75" or 45mm model track gauge.
In 1/29 scale, this model gauge represents only 4' 2 3/4", so how can that be 'more' prototypical.
You may have super detailed everything, but is that the same? 
Also no hard feelings meant.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada

WOOOAAH! So even 1:32 isnt exactly the correct gauge then... hmmm 

I think we are all looking at this the wrong way... It looks like I'm modeling on track thats too narrow, and you guys are modeling on track that is too wide! Looks like we are all just going to have to either start laying our own correct gauge track... Or just respect each others scales and understand that even though we are modeling in two different scales on the same gauge track, we put countless time and effort into modifying and operating out trains.


I came to My large scale to share my work with others and enjoy other modelers work. Yet ever since "someone" came out of nowhere criticizing my my models saying that "they are toys and 1:32 is the real thing" I have felt like I am on an Domestic vs. Import car forum...

Its not like I have been going around on other people threads with 1:32 content and stating that "my models are larger therefor far more superior" hahaha


Seriously, this is ridiculous and definitely not what I was expecting to find on a railroad related forum.


All the best,
Jordan

p.s. Happy Holidays David! I cant believe its already that time of year.. lol




Actually 45mm=1.7717 inches.









One of the narrow-minded guys in 1/20.3. TRUE 3 foot narrow gauge in 45mm.










HAHAHA! 

1:20.3 another scale I have lots of interest in but havent had the chance to model yet.

Thanks Gary

Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 07 Dec 2011 11:50 AM 
Jordan,
My mikado runs great. Built it from a kit. 


Jeremiah,

I would love to see here run. Have any videos??









Jordan


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jordan,
I hope that Jeremiah won't mind me posting this. 
Here is what I perceive as a slightly nervous Jeremiah with his Mikado on the very first test run on a track. 
He did a great job assembling the kit on his first foray into live steam.
Merry Christmas,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

In 1/32 the gauge should be 1.766. 1.75 is .016 out, or in 1/1 scale it's out .00050”. In 1/29 the gauge should be 1.948. 1.75 is .198 out, or in 1/1 it’s out .00683”. Now you all go to the nearest track in your area and let us all know if the Gandy dancers laid the rail that accurately. 

Then again gauge 1 track should be 45mm or 1.77165" which changes everything. :>) 

I think my math is correct. If it’s not I still hope you see my point, WHO CARES, they’re still toys that we pay way to much for.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Sorry Dan, I think that you divided instead of multiplying. 
1/32 x .016 = 0.512" (1/2") 
1/29 x .198 = 5.742" (5 3/4") 
WHATEVER that means. 
You only spend what you have, no-one is forcing you to order that next loco! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By David Leech on 07 Dec 2011 12:59 PM 
Jordan,
I hope that Jeremiah won't mind me posting this. 
Here is what I perceive as a slightly nervous Jeremiah with his Mikado on the very first test run on a track. 
He did a great job assembling the kit on his first foray into live steam.
Merry Christmas,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


David,

Just got a PM with the video from Jeremiah, What an outstanding loco.

I feel his nervousness as I will probably be in quite the same state. But for him to have built the kit I am sure it was much more of a reward to see here steam for the first time.

Beautiful!


Jordan


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

Of course you're correct David. That's what you get for not checking the spreadsheet.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

45mm x 0.03937" = 1.77165"

56.5" / 32 = 1.765625" (rounded 1.76563")

56.5" / 29 = 1.9482758620689655172413793103448" (rounded 1.94828")

1.77165" - 1.76563" = 0.00602" (+0.3% scale gauge mismatch)

1.94828" - 1.77165" = 0.17663" (-9.1% scale gauge mismatch)

0.00602" x 32 = 0.19264" (0.3% to wide)

0.17663" x 29 = 5.12227" (9.1% to narrow)

But like Dan said "Big Deal" they're all just expensive toys.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I was nervous for sure. I think it wasn't until a few laps where I actually had faith that it would not fly off the tracks if I did not run along side it.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

With a teacher like that you had nothing to worry about.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Right about that Bruce. I actually had two great teachers present that morning.


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## JWLaRue (Jan 3, 2008)

Jordan, 

Haven't had a chance to even fire her up yet.....and it's really bothering me!  

I don't care what anyone says, the AML K4 is a beautiful looking live steam engine.   

-Jeff


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By JWLaRue on 07 Dec 2011 05:05 PM 
Jordan, 

Haven't had a chance to even fire her up yet.....and it's really bothering me!  

I don't care what anyone says, the AML K4 is a beautiful looking live steam engine.   

-Jeff 
Jeff,

That is rough man! I have only had mine for a few days and I cant stand not being able to fire it up.


I went and ordered some track today from RLD. Tomorrow is my day off so I'm going to go to home depot and pick up some lumber. Hopefully in a few weeks I can have decent temporary oval set up in the yard to chase her around on for the time being.... Ahh the things we do for our trains. Im beginning to think it was cheaper when I had a girlfriend around hahaha


Jordan


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

While not the same, you could always fire it up on a treadmill. Should be able to get some rollers from your local railroading supply store. Just put the rollers under the drivers.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 07 Dec 2011 06:24 PM 
While not the same, you could always fire it up on a treadmill. Should be able to get some rollers from your local railroading supply store. Just put the rollers under the drivers. 
Jeremiah,

Got a set already, should help with initial steam up... Already have them mounted on a board so that the pilot and trailing wheels will be supported as well as the tender at an even height with the drivers.

Still wont be the same as watching her run around the track though.

I'll make sure to post a video as soon as my steam oil gets here 


Jordan


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

Sounds good. I let my pilot and trailing trucks hang as it hurts nothing. The drivers are supported and due to the mikado being alcohol fired, I make sure the tender is level with the engine so the chicken feed system can work properly. Good luck. One good thing about rollers is that it lets you get a good handle on the operation of the loco, but that is about the only good thing I can find in rollers.

Hey, Altoona, PA had a test bed and I have a VHS tape showing some engines being tested on them, so you could always pretend you are working at the Juniata workshops testing the K4 before putting her on the mainline. 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By iceclimber on 07 Dec 2011 07:26 PM 



Hey, Altoona, PA had a test bed and I have a VHS tape showing some engines being tested on them, so you could always pretend you are working at the Juniata workshops testing the K4 before putting her on the mainline. 

Hmmmm... I like the way you think


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## JWLaRue (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a treadmill that I built and use for my Aster Mikado. That's what the K4 is sitting on right now.

....and I still haven't had a change to light her up! 

-Jeff 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By JWLaRue on 07 Dec 2011 08:00 PM 
I have a treadmill that I built and use for my Aster Mikado. That's what the K4 is sitting on right now.

....and I still haven't had a change to light her up! 

-Jeff 
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); 
Geezz dude, what are you waiting for?! haha


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## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 05 Dec 2011 01:49 PM 
Craig,

I will draw up a quick illustration of my rail joiners as soon as I get home and post up a pic for you.

That is a good idea as far as cutting the head and foot of the rail to give it the jointed look! I was going to do something along those lines for this display stand to save time from having to notch each rail, but I couldn't find a thin enough wheel or blade to cut a desirable groove.


Thank you! 


The GP-30 is one of my growing collection of custom built diesels. It started off as a USAT Illinois Central Gulf GP-30. It is one of my most recent projects that I have finished (I havent even had time to weather it yet). Its based on a Southern RR style High Hood GP-30 but with a modern twist. The only thing I do not like about it is the top section of the cab roof. The prototype sits farther back than mine but it will have to stay like that until I can modify and re-paint her. All of my locos are painted in my company's colors (Taconic & Berkshire Co).


Its got all the works... front/rear independent ditch lights, front/rear selectable green/white/red classification lights, porch lights, dimmable headlights, Soundtraxx Tsunami sound system, and a custom radio receiver that I built so that I can control all functions by a NCE Gwire Cab. 



I have MANY more locos to be finished! Right now I am working on a Southern RR style High Hood GP-40X, Santa Fe style GP-20, CSX Style SD38, Southern RR style GP-38 High Hood and a Metro North Style FL-9 which I would like to paint in New Haven colors.

Locos I have completed are The GP-30, and a Springfield Terminal Style GP-40 (which is under the knife to update its electronics)


I have pictures of both and a current video of the GP-30 that I can post up as well when I get home.

Jordan 





Hi Jordan,


The GP30 looks pretty impressive. May I know how you worked out the hi-hood. It seems that it is not from the one of Aristocraft SD45.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Raymond Lam on 07 Dec 2011 10:37 PM 



Hi Jordan,


The GP30 looks pretty impressive. May I know how you worked out the hi-hood. It seems that it is not from the one of Aristocraft SD45.




Raymond,

Thank you!

Correct, the High hood is simply a casting made from the rear hood of the GP30 modified to fit the profile of a High Hood Southern RR GP30.

I am trying to get a closer look at your GP7 you have as your picture. Looks pretty nice! Have any pictures??









P.S. Since aristo stopped making their High Hood SD45's they have become absolutely rediculously priced whenever they're around on Ebay.. If I knew that 10 years ago I would have bought aristo's whole batch haha, would have made me a millionaire.


Jordan


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## steamupdad (Aug 19, 2008)

Jeremiah,
It's my understanding that the K4's were fitted with a blind driver. All the Aster K4's (live steam and electric) were also fitted with blind drivers as prototypical. The reason for the flanged center driver option for the aster K4, jump in if I need correcting (David or Ryan), is because of the equalized suspension. Unlike your mikado with independant coil spring suspension, the center driver on the aster K4 could drop significantly, in a manner of speaking,, depending on the type switch, crossing, or radius curve it was running on. The flanged driver option fixed this. Plus I think it looks better. I'm not familiar with the AML K4, but if it is coil spring suspension (I'm sure it is), then no worries on the blind driver. If it aint broke then don't fix it. Just tear it apart for fun, like I do, just to see how it all works - potato--potahto.....


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## steamupdad (Aug 19, 2008)

Oh, by the way, I like display stand.


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I see. Thanks for the explanation on the drivers.


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## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 07 Dec 2011 11:23 PM 
Posted By Raymond Lam on 07 Dec 2011 10:37 PM 



Hi Jordan,


The GP30 looks pretty impressive. May I know how you worked out the hi-hood. It seems that it is not from the one of Aristocraft SD45.




Raymond,

Thank you!

Correct, the High hood is simply a casting made from the rear hood of the GP30 modified to fit the profile of a High Hood Southern RR GP30.

I am trying to get a closer look at your GP7 you have as your picture. Looks pretty nice! Have any pictures??









P.S. Since aristo stopped making their High Hood SD45's they have become absolutely rediculously priced whenever they're around on Ebay.. If I knew that 10 years ago I would have bought aristo's whole batch haha, would have made me a millionaire.


Jordan 


Jordan,


The GP9 is in 1:32, a brass import from Korea. Here is some info about that in case you're interested to know more.

http://raymondwclam.blogspot.com/2008/06/emd-gp9-to-132-scale-in-chessie-system.html

Talking about the casting of the high short hood, it's a piece of very nice work. Do you have any spare copies (ready-to-use) for trade or something?  If so, pls PM me. Tks.

Raymond


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Jordan:
Your stand is amazing. I've only built cabinets and some relative straight forward furniture compared to your stand and its details. That limited experience does give me a deep appreciation of the skill and work you invested in your piece.

I thought you might like to see the photos I have of the carry cases Bob Weltyk's built. Maybe this might inspire you to make one of these your next project: (I don't think Bob would object to me showing off his work.)














































Chris Scott


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## iceclimber (Aug 8, 2010)

I need one of those boxes for my Aster Mikado.


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Raymond Lam on 08 Dec 2011 07:55 AM 


Jordan,


The GP9 is in 1:32, a brass import from Korea. Here is some info about that in case you're interested to know more.

http://raymondwclam.blogspot.com/2008/06/emd-gp9-to-132-scale-in-chessie-system.html

Talking about the casting of the high short hood, it's a piece of very nice work. Do you have any spare copies (ready-to-use) for trade or something? If so, pls PM me. Tks.

Raymond


Raymond,

The GP9 looks great and is quite detailed!









Sorry though, I wish I had the mold still but it was accidentally torn while I was removing the casting. If I make any more high hood noses and molds I will be sure to let you know.


Jordan


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Chris Scott on 08 Dec 2011 09:19 AM 


Jordan:
Your stand is amazing. I've only built cabinets and some relative straight forward furniture compared to your stand and its details. That limited experience does give me a deep appreciation of the skill and work you invested in your piece.

I thought you might like to see the photos I have of the carry cases Bob Weltyk's built. Maybe this might inspire you to make one of these your next project: (I don't think Bob would object to me showing off his work.)














































Chris Scott


Chris,

Thank you so much, but WOW those carrying cases are beautiful!!

Definitely giving me some ideas for the K4









The maker of those cases wouldn't happen to be the same Bob Weltyk that makes whistles for live steamers would it? If so I would like to get in contact with him to see if he could make me a 3 chime for the K4...

Jordan


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 08 Dec 2011 08:30 PM 
Posted By Chris Scott on 08 Dec 2011 09:19 AM 


Jordan:
Your stand is amazing. I've only built cabinets and some relative straight forward furniture compared to your stand and its details. That limited experience does give me a deep appreciation of the skill and work you invested in your piece.

I thought you might like to see the photos I have of the carry cases Bob Weltyk's built. Maybe this might inspire you to make one of these your next project: (I don't think Bob would object to me showing off his work.)

Chris Scott


Chris,

Thank you so much, but WOW those carrying cases are beautiful!!

Definitely giving me some ideas for the K4









The maker of those cases wouldn't happen to be the same Bob Weltyk that makes whistles for live steamers would it? If so I would like to get in contact with him to see if he could make me a 3 chime for the K4...

Jordan 



_
*Here comes Bob now ! 
*
.............. toot toot toot ................ toot toot toot ................._ [/i]


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Chris Scott on 08 Dec 2011 09:36 PM 
Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 08 Dec 2011 08:30 PM 
Posted By Chris Scott on 08 Dec 2011 09:19 AM 


Jordan:
Your stand is amazing. I've only built cabinets and some relative straight forward furniture compared to your stand and its details. That limited experience does give me a deep appreciation of the skill and work you invested in your piece.

I thought you might like to see the photos I have of the carry cases Bob Weltyk's built. Maybe this might inspire you to make one of these your next project: (I don't think Bob would object to me showing off his work.)

Chris Scott


Chris,

Thank you so much, but WOW those carrying cases are beautiful!!

Definitely giving me some ideas for the K4









The maker of those cases wouldn't happen to be the same Bob Weltyk that makes whistles for live steamers would it? If so I would like to get in contact with him to see if he could make me a 3 chime for the K4...

Jordan 



_
*Here comes Bob now ! 
*
.............. toot toot toot ................ toot toot toot ................._ [/i] 





Chris,

Thank you for the hook-up with bob!

Maybe the K4 will have a whistle to show off soon









Jordan


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## Bob in Mich (Mar 8, 2008)

Jordan,Here is My Whistle for an Aster K-4


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## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 08 Dec 2011 08:20 PM 


Raymond,
The GP9 looks great and is quite detailed!









Sorry though, I wish I had the mold still but it was accidentally torn while I was removing the casting. If I make any more high hood noses and molds I will be sure to let you know.


Jordan 



Jordan,

Thanks for your quick response though it's a heart-breaking one. Unfortunately the high short hood from Aristo SD45 doesn't fit the GP30 well. Awaiting your next casting project.

Raymond


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## Tac&BerkCo (Dec 4, 2011)

Posted By Raymond Lam on 09 Dec 2011 12:43 AM 


Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 08 Dec 2011 08:20 PM 


Raymond,
The GP9 looks great and is quite detailed!









Sorry though, I wish I had the mold still but it was accidentally torn while I was removing the casting. If I make any more high hood noses and molds I will be sure to let you know.


Jordan 



Jordan,

Thanks for your quick response though it's a heart-breaking one. Unfortunately the high short hood from Aristo SD45 doesn't fit the GP30 well. Awaiting your next casting project.

Raymond

Raymond,

Very sorry, I will keep in touch with you. I am working on a GP40X right now, though it shares the same High short hood as the SD45. If I have any rubber left over after the GP40X I will make you a casting of my GP30's High Hood.

Will let you know,
Jordan


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## Raymond Lam (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Tac&BerkCo on 10 Dec 2011 10:21 PM 
Jordan,

Thanks for your quick response though it's a heart-breaking one. Unfortunately the high short hood from Aristo SD45 doesn't fit the GP30 well. Awaiting your next casting project.

Raymond

Raymond,

Very sorry, I will keep in touch with you. I am working on a GP40X right now, though it shares the same High short hood as the SD45. If I have any rubber left over after the GP40X I will make you a casting of my GP30's High Hood.

Will let you know,
Jordan 




Wow.....that would be the best news or gift for the Xmas!!!









Wish you success with the next kitbash and look forward to seeing it.

Raymond


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