# Recommendations on purchasing a Sherline mill



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, the time has come to buy a small mill. Just for odd stuff. I have something small and expensive I want to machine, and my little Unimat 3 is probably not up to the job. It was good for playing, but want DRO, and CNC, etc.

Looking at the Sherline (yes I know there is other cheaper stuff), I can see various options, and I figure I need at least the one fitted for CNC, but probably not the package where they sell me a computer too, have plenty of those.

There appears to be 3 different "sizes" of the mills, and also there's the CNC options.

Anyone have a recommendation on models/packages and also options.
Please do not suggest an alternative product, Sherline is about 1 mile from here, and yes I will go there and get their recommendation too, but I want unbiased advice.

So any advice on Sherline and/or CNC gotchas, good software, things to avoid would be appreciated.

Thanks, Greg


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I can't comment specifically about Sherline... but I have heard they are fine machines.

I would recommend that you get the biggest and heaviest machine that your space and wallet will allow. I have a small lathe (Micromark 12 inch bed) and benchtop mill (Homier... slightly better than the Harbor Freight) and am forever wanting to work on something that is just slightly too big for them. And I want to work too fast with them and I can see the lathe bed warp when I take too big of a bite on the work piece with the tool. With the mill, I found that once I have a vice on the bed to hold the workpiece and the tool holder and bit in the spindle, there is little room for the workpiece between them!


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Greg

You might consider these people. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/

Their prices are reasonable and the best thing about them is that they stock all the parts. Quick service too.

I have a Homer lathe (bought it 15 years ago) and they have every part for that lathe in stock.

Alan


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Around the same price as the sherline and little machine shop are the Taig mill, lathe, and CNC.

I have run harbor freight equipment, consider them as a pre-built kit. They need to be taken apart, trued, deburred, lubed and reassembled.

Sherline is very fine for small detailed parts, almost watchmaker type. Taig can take heavier cuts, as well as little machine shop.

Check the hand wheels for even graduations per turn, some run a metric lead screw with inch dial. It's a bit screwy to work with.

I am currently running an atlas 618 lathe, and Lagun mill.

Currently in san Bernadine there's a pair of 618s for free on craigslist. 

As Semper recommends, get the biggest and heaviest machine you can fit in the space.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

I agree with Semper get the largest one you can, never regret it. have fun, cnc mills are fun
Dennis


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

On the CNC note, I would recommend getting a purpose built CNC, instead of a conversion. Little machine shop and Taig are sturdier than sherline.

On top of that, look for closed loop control ( position feedback ) because taking a heavy cut, or rough ways, or gunk on the leadscrew can cause missed stepper steps.

For a conversion, since they are cheaper, spend the time to make sure everything slides smoothly and easily from end to end without binding, or slop. Light oil or 0w motor oil with frequent application helps things slide easily, not grease.

I had a used harbor freight conversion CNC, person before had used grease to lube. It was so bad, I needed to use the big mill with a fly cutter to true up and smooth every bearing surface. .015 dip. Also the ways from factory were rough cut, not smooth.

If you have the patience and skill, you can convert a manual mill to CNC.

A CNC mill does not work that easily as a manual, and can damage the electronics well.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Like you Greg, I've looked and compared all those brands and even Proxxon as well. I've compared function and cost and needed a gin or two to decide what suits me.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, the cool thing is that Sherline is right here, maybe 2 miles from work. I bought the system with the steppers installed, and have been reading their manual a bit. 

The picture below shows the mill without the steppers on it. They put it all together at the factory. I bought their motion control, and will be using Mach4 on a Windows box.

I know this is not for big stuff, I model G and Z. Clearly it costs more than the other brands but the other brands need more tuning and tweaks from my research. Being a newbie, I'm not the "mill tuner" that a more experienced person can be. I definitely cannot call myself a machinist!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

JPCaputo said:


> For a conversion, since they are cheaper, spend the time to make sure everything slides smoothly and easily from end to end without binding, or slop. Light oil or 0w motor oil with frequent application helps things slide easily, not grease.


No no no! Use Mobil Vactra No. 2.

https://www.onlinemachinist.com/all...b-oXdB80ZdZfA47xWxuvd8kytdNpm_-TgEaAq4z8P8HAQ


BTW, nice toy.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll tell my story again (I think I have told it on this forum, but it has been a while)...

I bought a lathe with the intent to learn enough that I could whittle me a steamer from some chunks of metallic type stuff. 

I had already purchased a steam engine (just a single cylinder motor, not a locomotive) kit at a "fair" that the vendor had put together from bits and bobs of metal and pipe (most of which is easily available at hardware stores). He claimed that he had built his examples using only a handheld drill and some files (no lathe or mill... not even a drill press!, though he said a drill press would make some of the work easier and more accurate). I should have put 2 and TWO together and realized since I was unable to complete that kit I should forget that dream of whittling a steam engine on my own.

Anyway, I got the MicroMark lathe and began to learn how to use it. I made a few small items before I began to work on a set of wheels. I made other objects that were worthwhile to me; several brass bells (1 to 3 inch diameter), replacement air-tube socket for my sphygmomanometer, 2 brass hammers, a Rail bender, alcohol fuel pump fittings, self-contained battery operated locomotive headlights (I wrote about them in SitG magazine), Plexiglas "Ray-Gun" barrels for a friend that was casting and blow-molding the rest of several "Lost in Space" gun replicas, walking cane tips and ferrules to fit a wood handle to a conduit shaft, hand pump handles for a friend that left his at Diamondhead (K36 and 3 cylinder Shay), etc., etc., etc. All in all I think the lathe has paid for itself. So far, if I discount my time and the raw materials, apportioning the cost of the lathe out, the things I have made have cost me less than $25 a piece! 

I started to make one pair of wheels... I would chuck a disk in the lathe on a mandrel and turn it to size. Remove it and mount another disk and without changing anything else, turn that disk to size. Put them both on an axle and ATTEMPT to roll the assembly down a slight incline... it would turn sharply, indicating that the 2 wheels were not the same diameter! Chuck the larger one up and (with no change to the tool setting!) skim some dust off of it... not enough... do it again, not enough... do it again; too much, it turns the other way rolling down the incline! Do the other wheel... with the same stupid sequence of results!

I joined a "Machinist's board" web site and I was bemoaning my inability to make a pair of wheels the same diameter and was told, in no uncertain terms, that the MicroMark lathe was just a hobby toy and not up to the task. If I wanted to do any serious lathe work, I would need at least a Southbend or Clausing or something bigger than a benchtop toy.

I was looking at what I could (NOT) afford ($$,$$$), but was really more concerned about how I would get such a behemoth into my basement shop.

Then, I met a man on-line who was coming to the U.S. from England to visit his son in a city near here. He was asking if there were any G-Gauge tracks in the area where he could bring his "Project Engine" to run it. A member of the local Garden Railway Society had a new track ready so we planned to meet there.

The only "Project Engine" I had ever seen was a backwoodsy single oscillating cylinder chain drive "kludge" and that really turns me OFF, but in the interest of "International Relations" I figured I could ooo and ahh over it and then show him my Aster Mike! 

We met a month or so later and he was suitably impressed with the Aster. Then he proceeded to get a beautiful oak carrying case with bright brass fitments out of his son's car. From that case he pulled out a very fine British outline 0-6-0 locomotive. While he was fueling it up someone asked where he got it. (I was wondering if he had decided his "Project Engine" was not good enough and he had purchased some commercial loco.) He said he had made it all himself from some G1MRA plans... the cylinders and wheels were from purchased castings, but he had done all the work on his lathe. Someone asked what kind of lathe he had... my ears perked up to hear the name of the lathe I was gonna buy! His answer?:

"Oh, I have that little MicroMark lathe. It is not much but it does what I need."

That nice man saved me MANY THOUSANDS of dollars right then and there! It ain't the machine... it is the operator!

Greg... I hope you are a better at it than I! I refuse to sully the term "Machinist" by using it in relation to "me".


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you read my web site on mills and lathes (still filling in data), it says that I am definitely not deserving of the title "Machinist".... the very cool thing here is that Sherline employs hobbyists that use the equipment and make stuff. They are there on site. (There's a great museum on site there too of stuff made on Sherline products, see picture below) 

There are classes and lots of free advice available locally. I did have some formal training by the professional machinists at Hewlett Packard, and therefore have a few basics, but lots to learn. The thing I have found is that you can use a small machine of good quality and make stuff, I don't need a huge Bridgeport.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Greg, that motor looks fine. Sherlines were originally made in Australia, but it's good to see someone is building a quality unit even if it is a 'toy'.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep:

"Ron Sher brought the lathe into production under the Sherline name in Australia. The original Sherline Model 1000 Lathe was designed in the late 1960’s and built in Australia"

But not a toy, but a small precision lathe. Toy implies several things, small, yes, low quality, no.

Greg


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, I think you'll love the Sherline--it's definitely not a toy in the hands of a machinist. I've had my long bed lathe for years now and it's my favourite tool to use. You can slide it to the back of the workbench when you're not using it, and it's the perfect size for G. Support is excellent, and given their proximity to you I'm sure you'll be down there quite often checking out all the cool accessories. I'd advise you to forget the CNC until you're used to the machine enough to know and 'feel' the limits of it by hand so you can get an idea of when you are crowding it and when you're not. I'm sure you'll figure it out--have fun!

Keith


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I concur Sherline equipment is not toy like... Very capable in its realm.

I have an original Aussie S1000, purchased used with accessories. I reconditioned it, finding replacement original headstock bearings was a chore. Since restoration the lathe has not been used, kinda unique and I have the newer equipment.

Michael


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well guys I will take and appreciate all the advice I can get thanks!

Greg


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, got the Mach4 controlling the unit. The mill, the usb interface and the software all have independent instructions, and they all "conspire" to make a system that does not work.

I'll be posting the recipe for success on my site. Anyway the support from dPP engineering was great, just 2 emails solved the problem, which was basically being provided with the wrong drivers and configuration.



Now I need some tools. While the system is provided with a holder that uses a setscrew to hold a 3/8 mill, it also comes with a 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" collets.

I need a mill that is about 1 mm, so I'm figuring I want to use the smallest collet here.

Where's a good place to buy quality mills? I don't want K-Mart or Nieman Marcus, but Nordstrom is ok, better to use good tools that are a bit more expensive for me.



Greg


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

LittleMachineShop.com


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I buy the large majority of cutters from MSC Industrial Supply...

https://www.mscdirect.com/

They make specific mention of tooling manufactured in the USA. Suggest you get their catalog.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

<<I need a mill that is about 1 mm, so I'm figuring I want to use the smallest collet here.>>

Greg,

That is a very small cutter, even with your relatively small mill. The smallest cutter I ever used in a Haas Vertical CNC mill was around .020 and that was to mill an embossed logo into a forging die. That was also an operation to get the tinist detail into the logo AFTER all of the roughing and finishing was done by larger cutters. You are looking at about .040. 

Purchase cutters that are made for the material you will be cutting. The number of flutes and the helix angle and cutting rake (clearance) will be different for aluminum or steel and also the various alloys of those materials. I just looked at the site at McMaster-Carr. Looked at their inventory of small cutters (1/8th inch dia.) and these were coated or uncoated and made for cutting aluminum (6061 I would assume....industry standard for tooling stock for fixtures) and they cost around $15. These were 2 flute, 37 degree helix, .125 dia., 3/8 shank dia., 3/8 long cutting flutes and 2-5/16 total length. A cutter that was .250 diameter was around $18. This gives you a range of cost and size. These were also "uncoated" , meaning high speed steel. Also available "coated" TICN (Titanium Carbonitride) and the cost is about 75% more. The tolerance on the diameter of these cutters is plus.001 down to .000 (need to know this when "programming").

The type of tool path that you will be using is also involved in the cutter selection. Contour path vs. a straight cut.

Always remember, you need the largest diameter cutter you can use for roughing and finishing so that you have rigidity in your cutter and little or no "spring" in cutting. ALL cutters flex, no matter the size. I took "spring cuts" with end mills as large as 3-1/2 inches in diameter and 6 inches long with 2 to 3 inch shanks (high speed cutters). 

Good luck with your tooling selection. Lots to consider before buying. I would also agree with Dwight's suggestion of MSC Industrial Supply

https://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=17fb6l3


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

yes, seems small mills hard to find, I have a really precise operation, where I need to mill a notch in the corner of a piece of material and not damage stuff around it.

I see McMaster has 0.04" mills in carbide, $18 for a 2 flute and $26 for a 4 flute. I've always preferred the 4 flute because of the surface it left behind, I'm rarely going to do stuff where the speed of removal would point towards a 2 flute, but suggestions and experience *VERY* welcome here..

https://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=17fbf4o


Thanks, Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,

I agree you should use a 4 flute for a finer finish and definitely the best carbide you can get. McMaster-Carr has always been my "go to" supplier, even to this day as I build my 1/8 scale locomotives and rolling stock. I always have it delivered to the house. Cheaper by far than the drive to the Main Warehouse in Santa Fe Springs.

We always used 4 flute, spiral end mills to finish walls on a die lock or impression lock on forging dies that would have .001 to .003 clearance in the mating lock surfaces. Absolutely straight and true.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Cool, thanks Gary, that is the one I was considering, so that's what I went with. Funny, you make the order, and they tell you the tax and shipping later. Weird. I'm sure that means shipping will be nuts for one little mill. Oh well, I used to work for McMaster at that location summers while at college, crazy place, big..

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> ....... I used to work for McMaster at that location summers while at college, crazy place, big..
> 
> Greg


Yeah, BIG! Have you been in Will Call recently? They have ceiling fans overhead, above the sales counter and those have blades on them about 20 feet across. Says Great Big Ceiling Fan Company right on them. Absolutely hilarious. The warehouse is probably three stories high in that area, so the fans are quite a ways above you. I believe there are three of these in that area.

I have had drills (much the same as your cutter) delivered to the house and the shipping is usually around $7 to $8. That's same day delivery too. I usually try to order other items while I'm at it to make the shipping a little easier to swallow.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

At that size, I hope you ordered a couple of spares.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Me break something?

I'll probably need spares of everything. Actually just ordered one to see if it is what I want, I got a set of mills, and some odds and ends, and will play first. I realize that diameter mill will be EASY to feed wrong. But some smart guy gave me a link to a calculator for feed rate and spindle speed, so maybe that will help. Also reading a couple of books, watching that MIT series, and practicing on scrap delrin, etc.

We'll see, was just happy that everything is working, set up, etc.

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

With a small end mill like 1mm, there's not much material there to help maintain rigidity and prevent flexing, so if's VERY easy to break the tool. That's all I'm saying. I can't remember now if the calculator provides maximum depth of a single cut and number of passes required to achieve a given final depth. As I mentioned before elsewhere, there will also be gumming issues with aluminum to take into account (unless you bought a special end mill designed specifically for aluminum). At any rate, you'll likely break one or more tools unless you're very careful. LOL! Like they say, if you ain't making scrap, you ain't learning anything.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, sort of was taking the hint, where they offered 3 depths of cut on the mill, one was only 6 hundredths... so I figured they were touchy... 

Yes these are for aluminum, but I see the helix angle is only 30 degrees, where many are at 50... it will be slow going and lots to learn.


I'm going to start with the carbide, uncoated 4 flute...

https://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=17fro0k

I do like the McMaster site, makes it pretty easy to narrow down... not cheap, but heck, this is a hobby...

Greg


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## Allegheny (Jan 2, 2008)

If you are looking for miniature end mills there is only one source that I know of:

http://www.harveytool.com/

They stock cutting diameters down to 0.001" (0.25mm) in several geometries and for several types of materials. They are NOT cheap.

They will also manufacture end mills to spec for you if they don't stock what you want.

Brian


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Brian! Their prices are on par with McMaster, and an even bigger selection!

http://www.harveytool.com/cat/Brows...End-Mills/Square-Miniature-End-Mills_255.aspx


Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

The tools offered at Harvey are fairly competitive with other sub-1/8th cutter manufacturers. When you get down to sub-.010 diameters, you are dealing with multi-million dollar NC machines and doing "high speed" machining, i.e. speeds in excess of 100,000 rpm and feeds that are faster than most NC machines move in "rapid traverse" mode! As I mentioned before, the smallest I ever used in my 42 years as a die sinker, was .015 die. and that was very difficult to see once mounted in the machine.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

You should also be aware that your selection of "tools" is partially governed by the collets available for your machine.

For example McMaster lists a 1.6 mm, 4 flute that uses a 3/16" collet. Fine. But if you want a 1 mm mill, MSC has one that uses a 4 or 8 mm collet.

As such, your selection is partially limited and you may want to seek out an aftermarket source that makes collets to the sizes you may need. This is why I alluded to such on the other forum. I wasn't asking of the diameter, but the "type" [e.g., MT3, R5], which I don't see listed on their web site. If you know the type, and it is fairly common, there may be a world of other size tools you can use.

But you already know all this and don't need any help.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Gary, the size I am going for is an 0.040 mill, still plenty tiny I know, and I'm sure I will break a few on the way.

The sherline goes to 2800 rpm, so maybe the smaller mills will have to take very tiny bites due to spindle speed, not just diameter.

Anyway, it will be fun learning. I'm going to put up the picture of what I need to modify, it's a Z scale "rolling road", which is a bunch of rollers on a fixture.

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,

There is another factor you need to enter when you are determining your cutter speeds and feeds. That factor is sfpm (surface feet per minute). I found this series of charts that might help you

http://www.etantdonnes.com/MACHINE/TABLES/cuttingSpeeds.html


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ive been eyeing them as well, but they are SO expensive! I would love to have one to make my Periscopes which i currently do by hand.
















I would love to have a CNC to make them. Takes a couple hours to make these by hand.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I learned a lot from this article, especially about "rubbing"...

*Chiploads, Surface Speed and Other Concepts*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Here's the project (when I am capable) that needs a 1mm mill:

The picture below is a Z scale "rolling road":









There's a piece of track for a tender if you have a steamer, and then there are 8 adjustable sets of rollers.

Here's a closeup of one of the roller units:









The issue is that with smaller diameter diesel wheels, the wheel sits in the "valley" between the 2 rollers.

Unfortunately the metal behind the rollers is higher than where the loco wheel lives (in the "valley").

In current production, the sideframes of diesels will sit down and contact the metal frame before the wheel sits in the "valley".

So I need to mill down the corner of the frame behind the rollers. I need about 1 mm of clearance, and about 1/2 mm deep.

I figure the pins that secure the tiny rollers will still stay in place, even if they get partially exposed, since the pins securing the rollers must be more than 1mm deep in the metal.

This will be fun, and I will need to set up a jig or something repeatable as I need to do this 16 times.

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Oh that would be nice!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,
A question and a suggestion on milling the clearance you need for the diesel side frames........did your mill come with a small precision vise? If it did, I would setup a vise so that the open jaws are 90 degrees to the table slots. this will make it easy to access the tightening handle as you put each piece to be milled in the jaws. You would be cutting the clearance along the X axis. Now you should place a small piece of aluminum stock on one of the jaws (preferably the stationary jaw) This will establish your Y axis location. Level the top of each wheel set roller unit with the top of the jaw. Now set your mill up for 0,0,0 and make a straight line tool path to cut the clearance. Multiple cut depths and multiple side wall passes depending on how well your cutter works. Remove the roller unit and do the next unit the same way. You are already indexed in by the stop block on Y, by the stationary jaw for X and the level top of the jaw for Z. After the 3rd or 4th roller unit, you will be bored and grinning yourself "silly".

I'm assuming you have a dial indicator and know how to use it.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, I do nothave a dial indicator, but I do know how to use them.

Thank you very much for the suggestion, I did get a small precision mill vise.

I assume the dial indicator would be used to make sure the parts put in the vise are in the right places... I most likely need one anyway to check things out and to gauge wear etc.

hmm, with aluminum slides, guess I won't be using a magnetic base ha ha..

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> No, I do nothave a dial indicator, but I do know how to use them.
> 
> Thank you very much for the suggestion, I did get a small precision mill vise.
> 
> ...


Greg,

A dial indicator is mandatory. You would use the indicator to set the vise square and lined up 0,0 along either the x axis or Y axis. Maybe even check vertical 0,0 along the Z axis. In the case of my suggestion of using your vise, you would clamp the indicator to the spindle and "indicate" the long wall of the stationary jaw. That establishes that you are "square" with the X and Y axis. You might want to think about a 0-1 inch travel on your indicator if you will be doing taper cuts. Also get yourself a small "sine bar" for setting up angles someday. I would definitely NOT suggest using a magnetic base anywhere around this mill! I DID use a magnetic base when setting up dies on the large Haas mills though. This can be done because the electronics and ball screws are fairly insulated against any magnetic problems occurring.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good enough, that's right, I need to confirm the squareness of the setup too.

Curious about the magnetics though? The only electronics are about 5 feet away, the stepper motors are only motors, and I would not try putting a magnetic base on them anyway.

In any case, the table is all aluminum, I think the headstock is steel.

I'll look up what I can get, but how to secure to the various locations? The mill vise is steel.

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Good enough, that's right, I need to confirm the squareness of the setup too.
> 
> Curious about the magnetics though? The only electronics are about 5 feet away, the stepper motors are only motors, and I would not try putting a magnetic base on them anyway.
> 
> ...


Magnetic bases have a pretty strong magnetic field around them. You can probably use it on the headstock........just ask Sherline first to be safe. I can send you some photos of my magnetic bases and the 0-1 inch indicator I have here. In my 42+ years in the trade, I've gone through quite a few of them . I still have some of them, including my Starrett .100-0-.100. Bought it in 1966 and it still works. It does need some cleaning ng though. The 0-1 inch I have is a Techloc brand, but it's a good indicator. Got it at Industrial Pipe&Steel (El Monte) during one of their tool sales. A good base will come with the stems and rods and adjusting knobs to get your indicator into to difficult places.

Use the T-Slot holders that came with the mill to fasten parts and the vise to the table. I would have thought the table was steel and not aluminum. Pretty easy to "nick" a table even when they are steel.

I'll take some photos tonight and send them by email.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Have been looking way out of my league, also whether I need a test indicator or full on long travel dial indicator.

The bestest look great, but about $300... wow..

http://longislandindicator.com/p4.html


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg,

Your champagne tastes are showing.......those are brand name high-end indicators.

There are similar small indicators available from Starrett. I found these on Amazon and a little less expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-Last-Word-Indicator-Attachments/dp/B007WZQJTM

Starrett is a great name in tools, although I believe they might be importing some of their tools from China. You just can't get around it now. If I were looking for something for a small mill, I would go for these personally.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So, you recommend I get a test indicator, and a longer travel general purpost dial caliper?

Greg


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

You might also want to pick up an edge finder set if you haven't already. 

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn..._id=86425279&gclid=CJnC86LP0dMCFca3wAod0OoHzg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

The reason for using a test indicator is that it is graduated in .0005 (half thousandth)!) good for very accurate setups and checking spindle run-out. The drawback is that they are fragile in shop environs. The pro for using these is that they are easy to twist around into areas of your small mill and little parts you will be doing. Also notice the "points" on the tip are very small so you can indicate in very small detail areas that are impossible to get to with the larger "general purpose" type.

Mitutoyo is another very good manufacturer.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I got those bits from reading a bit, and the Bestest comes with 3 carbide tips... 3 different sizes...

Of course I see they make 0.0005" resolution dial indicators with 1" travel, although I may have to sell the Mercedes!

Thanks guys, all suggestions welcome... edge finder added to list.

Greg


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I think you made a good purchase. Sherline does a great job building stuff. Plus lots of accessories as the time comes. If you live near Sherline, go to the The Miniature Engineering Craftsmanship Museum in Carlsbad. A lot of those exhibits were made on Sherline equipment.

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/

Way back in ancient times, before digital readout, dial indicators were widely used for precise measurements on mill. The graduated handwheels may not be accurate and are prone to backlash. The old timers would fix dial indicators to the X and Y axis on the mill. This is how I set up my cheapo Chinese mill with some homemade attachments for the dial indicators.





















This systems works great. These dial indicators came from Travers Tool for about $15 each.

Oh, and an edge finder. Yes, you'll need one. They have all these optical, audible, laser and other way too complicated things. An old school single end, 0.200" is perfectly fine. You might want to "Google" or "YouTube" a device called a wiggler. Wigglers come in sets and can be used on a lathe too.


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