# Track Cleaning Cars/Locomotives



## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Finally I got my pike installed this summer/fall, well the first 150 foot loop anyway. But here is my problem: I was able to purchase approximately 800 feet of track 2nd hand (mostly Aristo with some LGB) at a very attractive price a few years ago (thats the good news) but it is badly corroded (the bad news). Here I am this morning applying several coats of Brasso and spending a lot of time polishing to remove the crud and getting it to look a bit better for a siding and a second and possibly a smaller third loop.

Now my question: if after spending hours after hours getting this track in usable condition how can I prevent corrosion building up again. I am considering getting a track cleaning car with those pads that rub on the rail but wonder how effective they are. Any recommendations? I think maybe a better bet is a LGB track cleaning locomotive but before I shell out that much $$$ I want to make sure they work. I do have a 12 foot straight tunnel (track mounted on a PT 2x6 so it can be removed) and with several feet of track in shrubbery it makes it difficult to use a pole scrubber/sander. Besides I am a bit lazy :-} Yes, I know I am a candidate for battery power but that will be down the road.

Thanks for any reply and a big THANKS for all the good info on these forums. Really appreciated by one getting started in the world of G scale.

Dale


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Before I recommend anything, how about we be sure we are on the same page: 

1 dirt/obstructions - dirt, rocks, dust, other foreign matter that can get on the rails that has nothing to do with the rails themselves. 
2 oxidation - the act of air operating on bare metal, normally brass oxidizing to a darker color, very thin on the surface 
3 corrosion - normally the action of chemicals that actually cause damage to the metal, large buildups of crud on the metal, or actual erosion 

So, I'm hoping you have 1 and 2 only and not #3. 

Let's proceed when we get the answer 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Get some Scot bright pads and use them for cleaning the track. If you can run your trains pretty regular like every other day the track will stay clean. It's when you do not operate on it that it crud's over. You can buy an Aristo track cleaning car and will do fine. Just run a few times when ever you run your trains. Just tack on behind the train and go. I do not think I'd spend the bucks for the LGB track cleaning car especially if your looking to go battery one day. Safe the money and convert to battery power. Later RJD


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

The LGB is the best, and also most expensive way to clean track. I use mine only a few times per year, when the track especially nasty. Most of the time I just pull a aristo track cleaning car, which is basically useless for cleaning. Do not expect it to do much of anything for you. 

I do find that even a single swipe with the pole sander and pad is a fast and good enough way to get the trains running. 

Also, if you use clamps and have jumper wires around the track you will find that the track can be dirty and the loco will still run.


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. 
Greg, the best I can describe it the rails have rough feelings to the touch as you run your finger over the darken rail. After applications of Brasso and polishing the rail is fairly bright, few small dark spots but rail feels smooth and engines run fine w/o hesitation until it hits an uncleaned section so I would assume oxidation only. Yet to see any pitting. 

Probably once track is cleaned/polished I'll be OK but I won't run till April here in Indiana. 

Dale


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have an LGB track cleaning locomotive. It works very well, but I only use it if I haven't been running for a long time. I usually use it when we get back from our 2 month stay in Arizona. 

My usual practice is to us a 3M green Scotch Bright pad on a dry wall sanding pole. Once around the track and you are good to go. I think that method is the best as it is easy, inexpensive, and does a great job. It also sweeps the occasional leaves and twigs into a pile that can be easily picked up as a group, not singly.


If you are cleaning the track before you put it down, I would attach the green pad to a sanding block.

Chuck


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Brass will oxidize, depending on your environment, you might have to clean every few days to every few weeks. 

See link for details on cheap and effective track cleaning cars 

Track Cleaning Tips


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

For 2nd hand rail with heavy oxidation (black/brown or verdigris) a fine grit sanding sponge from the hardware store will clean the rail tops with just a couple passes, and doesn't stink like brasso. Note I said 'heavy'... once you get it clean enough to run the first time, the scotchbrite pad is much easier on the rail.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

When I ran track power I used a Swivel head sheet rock snader. I used it the narrow point to clean single track then turned it 90 degrees and use the wide section to cover switchts and double track areas. The time it took me to walk the circumferance of the layou is all it took.

I have never used a liquid to clean my tracks. Will Braso leave a film to prevent the tracks from Cororodeing again? Or even oxidizing? 

My NW-2 engine by USA trains Use to clean the track too. I would send that out with it's calf. The first tirp around was kind of jerky after that things smoothed out. It has Sliders for power pick up.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Dale, sure sounds like oxidation only.

The milder the abrasive on brass that works for you, the better, in my opinion.

I have a page on my web site that shows a number of different track cleaning cars and my experience/observations.

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai...inmenu-272* 


See if this helps.

Regards, Greg


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks Guys, great info you all offered. 

George, was quite aware of your excellent site but apparently had not visited it since August as was not aware of your suggestion of the use of a drywall sander. Would make short work of my cruddy track as I'll lay them out on the garage floor this winter and do them all at once. I take it you do not use a solvent? Will the drywall sander leave harmful scratches? I would use a 3M ScotchBrite pad for subsequent cleaning after it is laid. 

Greg, And thanks for the helpful info in your site. Was aware of some but not all of the track cleaning cars. Will be back to you before a I purchase one. 

Regards 
Dale


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dale:

The green Scotch bright pad will not scratch the rails, at least at a level I can see, there is a maroon one (for metals) that will scratch the rails. What ever you do do not use sandpaper or emery cloth. That will scratch the rails and cause more dirt and oxidation problems until the scratches are eventually polished out. Unfortunately, I LEARNED THE HARD WAY!! 


It does not need any solvent. 

Chuck


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

The Chicago Botanic cleans the outdoor track daily using mainly maroon scotchbrite pads and sometimes "feminine unmentionables." Some mounted to cleaning cars, some to drywall poles, some to sanding blocks. We also have some LGB cleaning engines for trouble spots.

Indoors, we just do it when needed, and that's mostly where the snow machines leave an oily residu on the track.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I would only use sandpaper as a last resort, and then the finest I could find. 

That is basically why I asked "corrosion" vs. "oxidation" in the beginning. 

I have found many different "scotchbrite" pads, and also imitations in the same colors but not exactly the same "roughness". Since it's so inexpensive, my recommendation is to try the milder stuff first, and only increase the "roughness" if the track is not cleaned. 

How fast oxidation builds up varies widely from place to place, so some people need one thing, and others need something more radical. 

If you do wind up using the scotchbrite or sandpaper, that Bridgemasters car on my site is a very good choice, quick to change pads, can use either sandpaper or scotchbrite, and inexpensive. 

Regards, Greg


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've been using Aero Lube Track Cleaner and Conditioner. It cleans well and leaves a conductive film. No more of the black buildup around the clamps either. Seems to last for a long time, I've gone for a week or two with no running and trains run fine with no cleaning.
http://www.aerocarlubricants.com/


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## Splicer (Nov 29, 2008)

Brass track cleaning, I used the LGB track cleaning engine. I really liked it but it costs too much. The best thing so far I have used is SS track. Been using it for years (indoor) with plastic wheels and all the not advisable things like that, with zero problems around the Christmas tree. My sons Bachman 4-6-0 runs as smooth as silk every year and the track has never needed cleaning. If (when) I am fortunate enough to have another layout, I will be using SS track. It is just more durable all around compared to brass in my opinion.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

since the original poster asked about cleaning track and keeping it clean, I've kept my comments to that. I also have SS track, and think it's a superior solution. 

On the cleaner that Jerry recommended, it may, for some people, help oxidation down, but you need to start with clean track, and it will not remove oxidation. 

While there are chemicals that will remove oxidation without mechanical friction/agitation, they are usually not good things to leave on the track without rinsing, and no good for the environment. 

Regards, Greg


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Yes, I understand SS is superior to brass, but brass is what I have and need/want to use considering the cost. However should I need more and I may need more curves I'll certainly consider SS. I assume one can intermingle w/o problems. Any problems using brass connectors (such as Split jaw) with SS or is it better to use SS connectors with brass where they meet? 
Thanks for your input guys. It is appreciated. 

Dale


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

Here's how the big guys clear the tracks: Clearing the Tracks[/b]


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I wrote up something on joiners on my site, and mentioned no problem brass joiners on SS, although since SS joiners never oxidize, I prefer them. 

Intermixing track types is no problem. 

Regards, Greg


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