# D&RGW track and switch building



## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello guys!

Found a great site for information about the D&RGW. 


http://www.drgwrr.co.uk/drgw-track-and-rail-conversion-for-model-railways/


I am trying to build as prototypical as possible. Seems the D&RGW used 30 foot rail sections (about 18" in 1/20.3) as well as 33' (19.5") and 39' (23") with the rails laid offset:











I want to make the rail joiners look good so I checked out the originals:










I first made one out of 1/8 x 1/16 brass strips that I had. I wasn't able to find any supplier that carried the size, but after seeing the original, I realized it would be much simpler to drill through the normal rail joiners and insert 1-72 hex screws and nuts (available at a reasonable price http://www.microfasteners.com/):













I obtained code 250 rail and a switch from Sunset Valley Railroad and realized that the tie spacing was a little off from the D&RGW. The usual distance from tie to tie middle was 22" (1.1" in 1/20.3). I printed out their switch picture and drew the ties according to the prototypical spacing.












Then I made a simple jig out of cardboard. I'm still waiting for a shipment of longer lumber so I'm stuck at the moment.









It is interesting the the original also switch uses a kink in the curved rail where the straight blade connects.













I'll let you know if I succeed in this build.

Have a great day,

TOM


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

In the top photo it looks like some ties are quite a bit longer than the rest? Is that actually the case, and do you think there's a reason for it?


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello again,

I read somewhere that D&RGW used non-creosol ties and used local suppliers. At times there were delivery delays and maybe they just used what was available in order to stay on schedule.
Just a possible explanation.
TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Found a great site for information about the D&RGW. 
Tom, 
There was a website with all kinds of prototypical D&RGW track info, much like the PRR Standards Docs site, but the owner took it down and made the info available as a CD. 

It included all the original plans for the track components and the plans for switches, etc. I managed to save some crucial stuff, including lists of switch tie sizes.


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello Pete,
Since I only have room for 4 foot radii, my switches won't be truly prototypical. Thanks,
TOM


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

A lot of the farmers in Colorado cut ties in their spare time. They would cut the ties from their wood lots and stack them alongside the rails for the railroad to use. Got paid for the number of ties used. As you can imagine, the length could vary some and was allowed as long as a minimum length was met. 

In later days the railroad was replacing the narrow gauge ties with standard gauge ties. I am sure it kept down costs by not needing to inventory two sizes of ties. 

Hope this helps.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom, any progress? 

Greg


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hi Guys,

Finally made some progress with the switch.
Here the result along with some of the tools. 










The curve looks good. 8 foot diameter. Code 250 brass rail. 




















The frog is not insulated. Put a thin strip of PVC between the inner and outer rails at the point. Since the guard rails are touching these, I trimmed them slightly to prohibit the wheels from touching and causing a short when they come from the other track. I hope this works. I haven't been able to test the switch yet.
The black material at the center of the frog is rubberized flooring (back side up).










I haven't built the switch stand yet.

Have a great day
TOM


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hi guys,

I just finished my second attempt at building a turnout.
I sawed the ties on my table saw and made a template out of plywood.











































The tie plates I got are supposed to be 250 code, however the depression between the holes is not quite wide enough to accommodate the 250 code rails I bought.
Since this caused the rails to tilt I ended up cutting the tie plates to widen the space to receive the rail base.

I'm not completely happy with the arrangement of the ties and am working on a new template for the next switch.
This is the drawing.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom,

As you indicate some issues with tie plates and ties, I looked around my files an discovered that I saved some of the D&RGW drawings when they were online.

First, the tie plates:










Then there's the ties themselves:









This came from the original switch drawings:










My math didn't work on that #4 1/2 turnout (14' in Fn3 scale?) What radius is it - anyone?


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello again,

Thanks for the input. This picture is probably a 4 1/2 switch. Since my space limits me to 8' diameters my switches are much tighter than the original. I still however want them to look similar.










I have now made version 3 of my switches.
I made a new template to better match the original.
I cut the ties from left over "table legs". They are about 7/16 x 7/16 x as needed. I decided to keep them higher than the original so the spikes hold better and don't go completely through. 










They are 3"x3" yellow pine. The spikes hold well and they are easy to structure with my steel wire brush.






















The frog looks good and the side rails (don't know what they are called) are much shorter that the earlier versions.










The point joints are also similar to the original. The nut holder is a great help. The slanted cut of the base of the blade lets it move easier.










I really like the way this version looks.

















On the left PIKO. Versions 1, 2 & 3










Now I have to work on a switch stand.

Have a great day

TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The frog looks good and the side rails (don't know what they are called) 
Tom, 
The whole thing looks very good. (They are called 'check rails', btw, and there's no practical reason to make them shorter.) 

A couple o thoughts. 
If you were in the Mid-Atlantic region, those pine ties wouldn't last long. I used redwood as we are a bit wet!

Your curved rails at the points seem to be a bit sharp, as if you added an extra bit of bend. It makes little difference as long as you maintain the gauge, but it isn't as smooth as the prototype. [There's a long discussion on the 13-page "Frist Attempt at Turnout Building" thread.] 

My other thought is the frog (looks good!) I assume you are running track power, as you seem to have insulated it. However, I recall comments about some manufacturers switches that had brief short circuits when the wheel went over the frog and bridged across from one side to the other. 
One solution is to make a solid frog complete with wing rails and part of the point rails, insulate it completely, and use a microswitch to change the polarity. The other is to make the frog dead so nothing shorts on the way through, but you need locos with good pickups. Here's the Llagas version:











I like the look of your switches, and I can see why you'd like them to 'look' the same. Viewing prototype photos helps a lot. My inspiration comes from a piece of Microsoft clipart : 











When I found that, I got inspired to start building switches with more track - when you make your own you don't have to make them an exact length. I once made a crossover using 6' long rail.


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Thanks for your comments Pete,

The reason I wanted to make the check rails shorter was to make the switch appear longer.










Since my layout is inside, I don't think I'll have problems with the elements (unless the roof leaks.

The curve was patterned to the R5 PIKO curve (8' diameter).
On two I made a tiny kink at the junction point with the point blade just like the original.










Since I didn't want to switch the frog polarity, I trimmed the frogs slightly at the point where a shorting could occur. I don't think the wheels will get contact. 










Wish I had room for something like your picture.
Thanks again,
TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

On two I made a tiny kink at the junction point with the point blade just like the original 
Hmmm... Not something you'd want to run through at speed. But there's a prototype for everything.


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

Hello Guys,


I’ve been working on a switch stand for my turnouts.
I want them to match the turn outs and at least be similar to the original in the 1950s.
They should be lighted and I will be using under the table Hanks-craft motors I got on eBay.
I prefer using brass.
I researched the internet. There is quite a variety of switch stands.


Since I will be having about 25 turnouts on the exposed sections I decided to make a jig for some of the build.












I built some parts to see how they would loo, how best to build them and what parts I would need.
Here the array of most of the parts.











Costume jewellery is cheap and small. Chains, lenses etc.












Some brass parts drilled and cut.










The lantern










Assembling the base













Building the upper portion.


The top of the LED is painted yellow to emulate light leaking out of the heat vents.










Almost finished. Still needs further painting. The straight sign used to be white in the early years, but probably already green by the 1950’s.
Will use black shrink wrap at the base of the lantern to cover the base of the LED.












Have a great day 


TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome!


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

*Switch changes*

Hello again,

When I finaly installed and tested my switch I discovered two problems. My Kiss C36 derailed when going through the curve.
I realised that the four main drivers (all flanged wheels) were getting caught up in the side check rails. I increased the distance slightly and no problem.










The second problem was more difficult. My Kiss 99 mallet was shorting out on the center check rails since they were powered. Isolating them solved this (they are not powered anymore). It was however still shorting at the frog point (plastic) when the wheel hit the brass of the other direction. Raising the plastic frog point slightly stopped this.
All other rails are always under power.

I am now repairing the other switches I have built in the same way.

TOM


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## TOM_1/20.3 (Mar 28, 2013)

*curved switch*

Hello again,
I just finished my first curved switch. Code 250 brass rail and #6 frog from Sunset Valley.




















TOM


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great, Tom. Now how about a three-way ? ;-)


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

Tom,
Real Nice work.
Thanks for posting.


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## trainsbt (Jan 11, 2008)

Thanks Tom! This post is great, and the photos, too!


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