# Starting a DACRE by Peter Jones



## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

I am looking to scratchbuild (mostly) a Gauge 1 live steam engine, preferably an alcohol Pot Boiler. I picked up a copy of Peter's booklet, as well as checked online and found some helpful websites for CAD plans for most of the parts. I understand the project was 20 years ago and many of the things that were available then just aren't made anymore. Still, I am willing to build what I need.

The plans call for 1/8" thick stock for the side frames and end buffers. However, that was for 0 gauge. For 1 gauge, he recommends 1/16" stock to give the wheels some extra room. I have three questions:
1. Will 1/16" stock be strong enough once the end buffers and frame spacers are attached?
2. Should I use brass or steel for the frame parts, from a strength point of view?
3. Would it be better to use the 1/8" steel as called for and spread the frame more then originally called for, and adjust the plans accordingly?

Thanks to anyone who can help me. I am excited about this project, and if I take it slow I think I will be fine.


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## FH&PB (Jan 2, 2008)

I think you're going to be the pioneer here. There were not many Dacres built, according to Peter. I corresponded with him on it many years ago and, if my memory serves, the book came out just around the time RH went to gas-fired boilers, rendering much of what Peter wrote obsolete. In any case, there aren't going to be many people around with the experience you are looking to draw on. 

Roundhouse uses 1/8" frames for their 45mm gauge engines, so I don't see any reason why you couldn't use it for this project - the RH axles are obviously spaced correctly to accommodate them. I would use steel for the frame, if possible, since brass is a good bit softer. It probably won't matter, once you get the spreaders and buffers attached, but why not go with belt and suspenders? 

Good luck on it, and do keep us posted on your progress!


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is someone who also builds a Dacre: 

http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/vi...sc&start=0 

He got the drawings from: 

http://www.stoomgroepzuid.nl/compon...tstart,10/ 

It is indeed based on a roundhouse loco. 
Regards


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

The Dacre looks like a very powerful engine with the longer stroke compared to the driver diameter. I would go with 1/8" plate frames simply to add weight over the drivers. The Dacre will like the extra weight. I did a modified "Tich" in 7/8" a few years ago and used 1/8" brass plate for frames. Works like a champ.

Pot boiler should work fine, but definitely add some water tubes. 3 preferably. Do a google search "Smithies Boiler", it is basically a pot inside a casing with water tubes. I think I have a drawing of one, I'll find it and post.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Scoobster28: Here is basically what I meant. Add 3 water tubes along the bottom of the pot boiler barrel. Modify/fit a casing to go around the boiler to keep in the heat. 










Alcohol is a good fuel. With a pot boiler design you get the simplicity of alcohol without messing with blowers and the other fittings.3


Please keep us posted on progress.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I downloaded the drawings for the Dacre from I think the 7/8's lounge sometime ago. There is an updated boiler with a gas burner and single flue.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, 
I never had any luck with Smithies boilers. In fact, my son built a simple pot boiler for his boat, which totally outdid my fancy Smithies, very embarrassing. Currently I stick to single flue gas fired boilers, which are simple and reliable. 
Regards


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By HMeinhold on 07 Dec 2009 08:51 PM 
Bob, 
I never had any luck with Smithies boilers. In fact, my son built a simple pot boiler for his boat, which totally outdid my fancy Smithies, very embarrassing. Currently I stick to single flue gas fired boilers, which are simple and reliable. 
Regards 

Smithies are actually a lot of work. More time spent on the casing than the boiler. He mentioned a pot boiler with alcohol, I was thinking more in terms of the water tubes than trying to do a Smithies. 

Henner, I tried the link to the plans and I got a "Forbidden" message. I am doing something wrong?


Bob


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'm not sure about Roundhouse's current production, but the ones I'm familiar with all use 1/16" steel for the frames, as does Accucraft on the Ruby. In both cases, it's quite amply strong. 

Later, 

K


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

My recent production RH 2-6-2 has 1/16" steel frames, which survived a tumble to the ground with no damage. 

Larry


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

The G1MRA publication Modeling In Gauge 1 - Book 2 - John van Riemsdijk's Contribution to Gauge 1 contains a lot of information about Smithies boilers. Apparently the arrangement of the water tubes and firebox is critical. A Smithies boiler does require a draft in order to draw the flame along the water tubes, although in some designs there might be sufficient heat convection to generate a sustained draft without a blower. Mind you, this info is from the book and not from my own experience. A Smithies boiler is on my list of things to build and tinker with, and I fully expect to be surprised, confused, and enlightened along the way. 
Water tubes in the fire space below a pot boiler will increase the heated area, but it would probably be advised to make sure that the water tubes are completely enveloped by the flames. Otherwise the water tubes could re-radiate a lot of the heat that just got absorbed. Solid copper quills on the bottom of a pot boiler will also increase heated surface and are simpler to do than water tubes. Solid quills, too, should be in the flame area in order to work optimally.


Steve


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Steve Shyvers on 08 Dec 2009 09:34 AM 
The G1MRA publication Modeling In Gauge 1 - Book 2 - John van Riemsdijk's Contribution to Gauge 1 contains a lot of information about Smithies boilers. Apparently the arrangement of the water tubes and firebox is critical. A Smithies boiler does require a draft in order to draw the flame along the water tubes, although in some designs there might be sufficient heat convection to generate a sustained draft without a blower. Mind you, this info is from the book and not from my own experience. A Smithies boiler is on my list of things to build and tinker with, and I fully expect to be surprised, confused, and enlightened along the way. 
Water tubes in the fire space below a pot boiler will increase the heated area, but it would probably be advised to make sure that the water tubes are completely enveloped by the flames. Otherwise the water tubes could re-radiate a lot of the heat that just got absorbed. Solid copper quills on the bottom of a pot boiler will also increase heated surface and are simpler to do than water tubes. Solid quills, too, should be in the flame area in order to work optimally.


Steve



When scoobster said he was thinking a pot boiler and alcohol fuel, I immediately thought of the Dunkirk. As I recall, you modified the casing and got it to steam good.

Bob


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Was "surfing" the web and found a plan for a small loco with a pot boiler and casing arrangement. The side tank casing kind of looks Dacre, but you could modify as needed.




http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/xo...BURNER.jpg


http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/xo...SHIELD.jpg


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob, 

Thank you for reminding me about the Dunkirk! The casing that surrounded the burners and was supposed to keep the fire close to the boiler was modiifed to give more space for the flames to burn in. After that the boiler steamed quite well. However all I really did was rediscover what Jack Wheldon had already published a long time previously about the correct proportions for a pot-boiler firebox. "My" modifications turned out to be a re-invention of a well-known wheel. 

Another aspect of the Dunkirk's improvement was moving a "superheater" pipe that was serving as an effective damper to block heat convection up one side of the pot boiler. Moving the pipe down and to the side about 3/8" greatly improved steaming. Your sketch showing the sloped water tubes should work fine for a pot boiler as long as they don't block the flame. The tubes should be in contact with the burner flames with the flames passing up between them, and the flames must then be able to pass between the tubes and boiler surface. If the tubes are too close together or too close to the boiler the flame will be blocked and the flame will be partiially snuffed and what flame remains will find its way around the outside of the tubes. 

I'd recommend two tubes instead of three for a small boiler. The third one in the center might snuff the flame a bit. How about a row of quills up the center line of the boiler bottom instead of the third water tube? Jack Wheldon advocated quills on the bottoms of pot boilers. He thought that quills were as good or better than other methods of increasing heated area at a much lower level of difficulty to fabricate. 

Steve


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Steve Shyvers on 08 Dec 2009 12:29 PM 
Bob, 

Thank you for reminding me about the Dunkirk! The casing that surrounded the burners and was supposed to keep the fire close to the boiler was modiifed to give more space for the flames to burn in. After that the boiler steamed quite well. However all I really did was rediscover what Jack Wheldon had already published a long time previously about the correct proportions for a pot-boiler firebox. "My" modifications turned out to be a re-invention of a well-known wheel. 

Another aspect of the Dunkirk's improvement was moving a "superheater" pipe that was serving as an effective damper to block heat convection up one side of the pot boiler. Moving the pipe down and to the side about 3/8" greatly improved steaming. Your sketch showing the sloped water tubes should work fine for a pot boiler as long as they don't block the flame. The tubes should be in contact with the burner flames with the flames passing up between them, and the flames must then be able to pass between the tubes and boiler surface. If the tubes are too close together or too close to the boiler the flame will be blocked and the flame will be partiially snuffed and what flame remains will find its way around the outside of the tubes. 

I'd recommend two tubes instead of three for a small boiler. The third one in the center might snuff the flame a bit. How about a row of quills up the center line of the boiler bottom instead of the third water tube? Jack Wheldon advocated quills on the bottoms of pot boilers. He thought that quills were as good or better than other methods of increasing heated area at a much lower level of difficulty to fabricate. 

Steve 



You know, I forgot about quills. They would be a good way to go too. Radiate the heat directly into the boiler. And I also forgot about running the "superheater" tube under the boiler barrel. You would have to take out one water tube for that.


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

Wow! Thanks for all of the replies! When Vance said I was a bit of a pioneer, I was afraid I would be on my own for everything. 

I have seen the websites posted in the beginning about the Dutch modelers who built Dacre engines as both butane and alcohol fired models. I have their drawings, which will become useful for parts I decide not to purchase from Roundhouse.

Currently on the Roundhouse website they list their frames as being made up from 1/16" material. So, I think I will try that. It isn't too much work to build side frames in both 1/8" and 1/16" and see which works better.

As for wheels, Roundhouse sells both 33mm and 42mm diameter wheels. I ASSUME that 33mm is the one I should go with, and that 42mm is just for their special Farlie engines. Can anyone confirm this? Peter Jones doesn't list the diameter in his original booklet. 

Thanks to everyone for their help so far. I might be on my own physically, but it sure is nice to know that I can pick the minds of some great people on this forum!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By scoobster28 on 08 Dec 2009 03:39 PM 
Wow! Thanks for all of the replies! When Vance said I was a bit of a pioneer, I was afraid I would be on my own for everything. 

I have seen the websites posted in the beginning about the Dutch modelers who built Dacre engines as both butane and alcohol fired models. I have their drawings, which will become useful for parts I decide not to purchase from Roundhouse.

Currently on the Roundhouse website they list their frames as being made up from 1/16" material. So, I think I will try that. It isn't too much work to build side frames in both 1/8" and 1/16" and see which works better.

As for wheels, Roundhouse sells both 33mm and 42mm diameter wheels. I ASSUME that 33mm is the one I should go with, and that 42mm is just for their special Farlie engines. Can anyone confirm this? Peter Jones doesn't list the diameter in his original booklet. 

Thanks to everyone for their help so far. I might be on my own physically, but it sure is nice to know that I can pick the minds of some great people on this forum! 

I just checked the 3 plans I have for other engines in the Dacre type category and they show 40mm and 38mm for drivers. 33mm maybe pilots. The drawing of the Katie chassis looks like 42mm drivers. Maybe contact Royce at Quisenberry Station. I think he carries Roundhouse products. 

What are you planning for cylinders? Roundhouse has cylinder sets with 9/16" bore, 5/8" stroke, D valve.

The Dacre looks like you would have several options. With some jazzed platework you could even do a Darjeeling. 

Don't hesitate to ask for help. We've all been stuck before on something and there is always an answer. 


Bob


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## Captain Dan (Feb 7, 2008)

I cannot get to my old "Steam in the Garden" Magazines, but in the first 2 or 3 years issues was an article by Jack Weldon about pot boiler with the porcupine quills. A simple pot boiler with quills will get you all the steam you want as long as you make the flame guard (might be call firebox in the Dacre book.) I once took apart a pot boilered Roundhouse Lady Ann and added quills to the boiler. It worked great. Unfortunately, (for me) I traded it away. The present owner is still happy with it.

Dan


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a link to a Jack Wheldon article about pot boilers, quills, etc. This link and the article exists courtesy of the 16mm Narrow Gauge Modelers Association, Garden Railways magazine, and Marc Horovitz. 

http://home.vianetworks.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/porky.htm 

Steve


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

I just checked the 3 plans I have for other engines in the Dacre type category and they show 40mm and 38mm for drivers. 33mm maybe pilots. The drawing of the Katie chassis looks like 42mm drivers. Maybe contact Royce at Quisenberry Station. I think he carries Roundhouse products. 

What are you planning for cylinders? Roundhouse has cylinder sets with 9/16" bore, 5/8" stroke, D valve.


I have called Royce him this week and emailed him a week or two ago and haven't heard back from him. Must be busy with the holiday season.

As for cylinders, I was going to use whatever was "standard" Roundhouse ones. Peter Jones didn't specify that either, but whatever is on their current Lady Anne is probably the same as it was then.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By scoobster28 on 09 Dec 2009 09:48 AM 

I just checked the 3 plans I have for other engines in the Dacre type category and they show 40mm and 38mm for drivers. 33mm maybe pilots. The drawing of the Katie chassis looks like 42mm drivers. Maybe contact Royce at Quisenberry Station. I think he carries Roundhouse products. 

What are you planning for cylinders? Roundhouse has cylinder sets with 9/16" bore, 5/8" stroke, D valve.


I have called Royce him this week and emailed him a week or two ago and haven't heard back from him. Must be busy with the holiday season.

As for cylinders, I was going to use whatever was "standard" Roundhouse ones. Peter Jones didn't specify that either, but whatever is on their current Lady Anne is probably the same as it was then.




Roundhouse has built a lot of very fine engines around those cylinders over the years. I don't think you could go wrong with them.

What about valve gear??

Bob


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

The plans call for slip eccentric, which is what I want to use. However, I might need to fashion it all myself because I doubt the Roundhouse Millie valve gear is the same as that called for in the book. Frankly, I wouldn't even mind if it ONLY ran forward!


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

Anybody know a good source for 1/16" mild steel, both in 1" and 2" widths? I tried the chain Metal Supermarkets but they couldn't help with something that thin. They could shear it from a sheet, but that would introduce problems like twisting/warping that I want to avoid. 

Where do you guys go to get the good stuff!


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## Havoc (Jan 2, 2008)

I just cut it out of a piece of sheet with a saw. You won 't always find just the right dimensions in the shop! 

http://users.bart.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/porky.htm


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By scoobster28 on 09 Dec 2009 11:47 AM 
Anybody know a good source for 1/16" mild steel, both in 1" and 2" widths? I tried the chain Metal Supermarkets but they couldn't help with something that thin. They could shear it from a sheet, but that would introduce problems like twisting/warping that I want to avoid. 

Where do you guys go to get the good stuff! 



McMaster Carr is a good source for raw materials. They have about every alloy imaginable. They also carry a huge variety of tools and equipment from economy grade to aircraft grade. Their “import” grade come from Japan and is good quality. No crap from China. Theirs a little pricey, but ships in a hurry. http://www.mcmaster.com/#



Online Metals has raw stock. They have drops real cheap. http://www.onlinemetals.com/



Metal Express has raw stock. They have wide variety of sizes and sell by the inch. http://www.metalexpress.net



MSC Supply has taps and dies at great prices in every size possible. If they don’t have you won’t find it. http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm



Little Machine Shop has lathe and mill accessories for small home machinery. Their stuff is China, but you probably won’t find small stuff anywhere else. I have had good luck with them. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By scoobster28 on 09 Dec 2009 11:47 AM 
Anybody know a good source for 1/16" mild steel, both in 1" and 2" widths? I tried the chain Metal Supermarkets but they couldn't help with something that thin. They could shear it from a sheet, but that would introduce problems like twisting/warping that I want to avoid. 

Where do you guys go to get the good stuff! 
As my good friend Havoc mentioned, don't be afraid to saw the frames out of 1/16" plate. It is not that hard. Clamp the stock to the work bench with a board on top to prevent chattering. Use a fine sharp hack saw blade in a stiff frame with some oil. Hold the saw at about 30 degrees. Let the blade do the cutting. It will walk right thru. You can get the cut within 0.010" of the line with a little practice. Off hand grind the edges on the grinder or finish with a file. Check the edges with a straight edge for straightness. Finish the edges by "draw filing". This is draw filing:









Pull the file towards you. Use a little oil. This will give you a mirror finish on the edges. They will look like a precision straight edge. 


Start with a "soft touch" sawing, grinding and filing. Let the tool do the work. You will quickly learn how much force to apply and it won't be much.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By scoobster28 on 09 Dec 2009 11:28 AM 
The plans call for slip eccentric, which is what I want to use. However, I might need to fashion it all myself because I doubt the Roundhouse Millie valve gear is the same as that called for in the book. Frankly, I wouldn't even mind if it ONLY ran forward!

Nothing wrong with going forward only.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I usually buy by steel sheets from lowes. Look in the asile with the rods and bars. There is a bin of all different sizes. If you dont sand the surface or sandblast, it has a think clearcoat so they dont rust in the store.

I usually use 14ga or 16ga


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

A friend has a shear so I plan on purchasing a sheet of 14ga steel this weekend. I will cut it into strips at his house Monday night, and then it will begin!


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Shearing 14GA???? Probally going to have a hard time. My Diarco and most are only rated for 16GA Steel. Even the 16ga steel on the 4' diarco puts considerable stress on it. I usually saw cut on a bandsaw then square up on the mill. I do shear 1/16" brass though.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

14 gauge is .0747" I think??


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

I just checked the driving wheel diameter on my RH Billy, and it is 33 mm. (Sorry for getting to this so late.) This is RH's "standard" wheel diameter for its 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 locos such as Billy, Jack, Katie, Lady Anne, etc. Not sure which RH locos are fitted with the 42 mm diameter wheels. 

Steve


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

Hi, all 

I have started a Dacre using the online plans. I also have the book by Peter Jones, but the online plans allow you to fabricate everything, including the cylinders and wheels. I know of another Dacre being started according to the book in upstate New York. I am using 5/64" steel for the frames, as this is the closest to 2mm the plans call for. The cylinders are 9/16"x1" bore, and the wheels have a tread diameter of 35mm. The boiler is a single flue, gas fired one, with the burner being made similar to a Lady Anne unit. So far, I have the frames and wheels done, and the eccentrics parts partially done. Cast iron will be used for the cylinders. Looking to be a fun project to make over the next few months. 

Larry


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

Hey Larry,
It is Ben here, the other guy building a DACRE in upstate NY. I picked up some steel at Lowes this weekend. It was the exact width I needed (1") and the end was painted green to indicare 14g. However, it was galvanized making it a little bit thicker. The sticker on the metal, though, listed it as 12g! So, it could be either 12g or 14g, with galvanizing. Not having my caliper in my pocket, I bought it and it sits around on my workbench. Either way, it is still not as thick as the maximum 1/8" so I think it will work. I HOPE it will work!

Because it is galvanized, I cannot weld it but I didn't plan to anyways. For painting, I will probably just hit it with a wirebrush to roughen it up. Some galvanized metal has weird bubbles and bumps and patterns from the galvenizing material, but this piece is nice and smooth so it should work well. If not, then I am only down $5 and I will get something else.

I might try and get started either tonight or tomorrow, depending on how my wife is feeling. She has been pretty excited about this project, and once I told her I was starting an engine she wanted it to be "hers." I already had named it after her: "Princess" (Princess = Sarah), so she liked that. She picked out the pilot shape (round at the bottom, like a Lady Anne's buffers) and will get to pick the color when we get to that point. Ironically, her middle name is "Anne" and my favorite engine is the Lady Anne, so she might think that when I get one I named BOTH engines after her. He he he.

Anyway, I am pretty excited.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Where are these online plans for Dacre? Can't seem to find them.

Thanks, Bob


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

Ben, 

Good to see you are getting started. 12 gauge galvanized sheet is .108" and 14 gauge would be .078" I am using 14 gauge 
steel which is 5/64" thickness .(078") as per the plans I am using. I may be wrong, but I believe you may need to use an etching primer before you paint galvanized steel. You are fortunate to have your wife giving you support on this project. 

Bob, 

Here are a couple of links to whet your appetite on the Dacre: 

http://home.claranet.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/HMDacre.htm 

http://members.chello.nl/e.stroetinga/Dacre.htm 

The plans in .dwg format are here; scroll down and click on "This is the complete drawing set..." 

http://members.chello.nl/e.stroetinga/Downloads.htm 

Note you need a free .dwg reader like A9cad to view, zoom in, and print from this file. 
The individual cells on the file have been converted to .jpeg format and are available at the Steammodelloco16mm yahoo forum for forum members to download, or let me know, and I can e-mail them to you. 

Happy scratchbuilding, 

Larry


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## hawkeye2 (Jan 6, 2008)

Shearing relativly narrow strips off a sheet will give you trouble. The sheared piece will have a bow in it and possibly a mild curl too. Both will be difficult to get out.


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

Talk about anti-climatic! I purchased a cheap junior hacksaw at Home Depot this week and went at cutting the steel I purchased. I had laid out the first cut line from the end (after using a square to determine the cut end of the steel was indeed square to the sides) with magic marker and a scriber, so today I cut it while the wife was out. Not having a proper work bench, I used my rickety kitchen table with the piece to be cut overhanging a garbage can. I eventually had to sit on the metal on the table to stabilize the cut, but it worked out okay. I then clamped it to my desk and used a large file to square up the ends to the scribe line I had made.

Surprise surprise! In my poorly lit office, I had measured the side's length wrong. Instead of 275mm, it is 274mm! Not a deal breaker in any event, and better learned on this piece then something critical like side rods, but still annoying. As Peter Jones said, _"It is easy to cut steel, but it is a swine to try and glue back together again." _Ain't that the truth. 

*So, new rules for my project will be as follows:*

1. No using cheap clear, dark colored rulers to layout out the pieces in poorly-lit rooms late at night.
2. When double-checking the measurements (which, ironically, I did), no using the same cheap clear, dark colored ruler in the same poorly-lit room late at night to confirm the original line.
3. Before laying out the sides for critical things like axle holes, cylinder holes,etc, purchase a proper dial caliper to make life easier.
4. Purchase a proper wooden handle for my file.
5. When setting up my eventual workshop, make sure my workbench is taller then my kitchen table is to prevent back aches.

Still, it is one piece down, and the first step is always the toughest. With the holiday weekend approaching, I hope to have all four pieces completed by Sunday night.


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## steamboatmodel (Jan 2, 2008)

Basic shop rules 
4. Purchase a proper wooden handle for my file. Never use a file without a handle, I will not go into the accidents I have seen and heard about. A file without a handle and a lathe are almost as dangerous as a table saw. 
5. When setting up my eventual workshop, make sure my workbench is taller then my kitchen table is to prevent back aches. The item you are working on should be level with your elbows. This not only allows better work but helps ease the back. 
Regards, 
Gerald.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Mistakes always happen. Part of this business is dealing with them. Either fixing them or hiding them. Put that 1mm mistake to the rear of the engine and hide it in the cab. The key thing is make both frames the same. When it comes time to finish them and drill holes, clamp the two together and do everything "in situ". They will be identical. Do the front and rear buffer plates the same way to get a constant width.

You are doing fine.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

One thing I've learned is to measure twice then double check it again. Use only proper measuring tools. And never cut on the line. Being only 1mm off just match the other one. its only .039 off.


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

Ben, 

Glad to hear the frames have been started. Always clamp material to be cut to give better control of the cut. I cannot cut a straight line to save my life, so I always mark at least 1/4" oversize, and cut outside the line to be safe. Do get a good 8" dial caliper, and an inexpensive 12" vernier height gauge is a must for accurately laying out and scribing lines on material. A piece of 3/4" plywood on a couple of saw horses makes a decent temporary workbench that can be easily knocked down and stored when not in use. 
My Dacre's buffer beams are rough cut, and the cast iron for the cylinders is waiting to be machined. Plenty to do in the next week. 

Enjoy your project. 
Merry Christmas to all. 

Larry


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## twofoot (Nov 8, 2009)

.


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## twofoot (Nov 8, 2009)

Where did you locate the Peter Jones booklet? I have had no luck sourcing one here in the states.

Cheers,

Chris
twofoot (at) comcast.net


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

Chris, 

The book by Peter Jones is available from Brandbright directly. 

http://www.brandbright.co.uk/ 

On the left side, click on Price List, then click Specialist Reading on the next page that comes up. 
The book is GRG4 "First Steps In Building A Steam Loco" about $3.00 + postage. 
Use their contact page to fax or e-mail your info. Service is very good. 

A Happy Steam-filled New Year to all! 

Larry


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

I purchased my copy through Amazon. 

http://www.amazon.com/Building-Smal...184797029X 

Jason


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

Although the book selling on Amazon mentions Dacre, it is not the construction booklet on building the loco. It is nonetheless a 
good book to have, seemingly written for the newcomer to live steam locomotive construction. 
The booklet in question is an 8"x6" paperback covering just the construction of the locomotive. 

I now have a rolling chassis with cylinders bored, drilled and mounted. Just finished hogging out the steam chests to size and need to drill and bore them out next. Eccentrics need finishing, and the copper tube for the boiler has been ordered (ouch!) 
No end of things to do to keep busy. 

Happy machining, 
Larry


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Ooops, sorry, in the book he has a whole chapter devoted to the "Dacre Principle" with plans, etc. so I assumed they were the same.









Jason


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

As has been mentioned earlier, Brandbright does in fact still have it in stock and I ordered it directly from them. While the booklet does contain some drawings for a few pieces (frame, footplate, etc.) it has drawings as well for the meths burner and a couple of other things. I believe to total cost for this booklet and another booklet about the Compton Downs railway was under $10 American. Someone had already loaned me a copy of the booklet which I scanned too, just in case it wasn't available or I lost mine.

My engine project came to a standstill when my tendinitis started acting up. However, a friend is letting me use his shop this weekend so I will finish cutting the frame pieces on Saturday. Then, I can layout the sides.

Slow going, but also costing me only pennies and having fun in the process!


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## scoobster28 (Sep 15, 2008)

Well, how time goes by so quickly! My frame is slowly coming along nicely and this weekend I will have the sideframes drilled and bored 1/4" for the axle bushing. I am using stock Roundhouse axle bushings, and wondered how they were to be attached to the frame. The original booklet from Peter Jones says to use "a whiff of epoxy," and in reading the Roundhouse "Lady Anne" it just says to put them in with the "axle bush bosses facing outward." Will they press in, should I use epoxy after all, or perhaps some form of superglue or Loctite? 

Thanks.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Soft solder works. Put the frame together, put in the bearings, use a length of axle material to align the bearings, make sure the axle rod turns freely. Glues/epoxies may work as long as they don't react with water or oil.

Pressing is not really an option because the frames are to thin and difficult to get the bearings aligned. 


Bob


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