# NAR 36' Flat



## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

This is another flat car I complete a few weeks ago, it still needs to have a load and I think it'll be a tractor.
The NAR (Northern Alberta Railways) acquired quite a few flat cars when it came in to existence in 1929, but most, even at that time were ancient having been used by both the Edmonton Dunvegan & British Columbia railway as well as the Alberta and Great Waterways railway, both predecessors of the NAR.
This particular car still survives at the Alberta Railway Museum north of Edmonton, albeit in need of restoration, but I thought it would be worthy of a place on my railway.










This car followed the usual construction process of styrene, brass hand rails etc.










The brass rivet heads are pins from Billing Boats, but I've not been able to get more as they seem to have changes the size of the pin, but kept the same numbering?










These are side post location pockets.










This is how I attached bolt heads to the sides of the handrails. A bit of messing around, but they look alright when painted.










This photo shows some of the underside detailing.










And finally the end.
Once again I would like to offer my thanks to Stan Cedarleaf for the work on the decals. Thanks Stan.

Cheers.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow Harvey, that is great work. Lots more detailed than my stuff. I feel humbled. Keep inspiring us.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

brass rivet heads are pins from Billing Boats, but I've not been able to get more 
Have you looked at the plastic ones? Both Tichy and Grandt Line make rivets.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Nice! You do all the brake rigging from scratch? 

Later, 

K


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Kevin,
Yes I do build the brake rigging and some of the locals here who have seen it comment to me that it's important to do this for when one of the cars roll off the track they can examine what I've done. Then for some reason they just roll their eyes!
When I built the CPR coaches some years ago the brake rigging actually worked until all the pins were glued in place. It's the same with the flat cars I've built. I put the brake piping in then when I'm satisfied everything is where it should be I glue the pins, I also make the pins.
Here are some pictures of the brake rigging for another on going project.









The brake cylinders are made from laminated 1/8" styrene.











This is the finish machined part, I then add the bolt heads from 0.040 Hex styrene.










The longer shafts with the larger diameter are to fit in the brake cylinder.










This is a trial fit for some of the links before installing.
Now you can see why they roll their eyes. Cheers.


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanks Pete,
I'll follow up on these. Cheers.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow. That's some scratchbuilding skills. How did you make the clevises for the brake rigging? 
I'd be willing to fork over some cash to buy some brake parts if you're interesting in casting up? 
Craig


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi Harvey, Kevin asked the same question I wanted to.. great workmanship and incredible details....on the entire car!! 

I also noticed the large chain links and clevis used on the brake rigging. Where do they come from? Billingsboats again... 
Craig..bnsfconductor.. and I have recently been talking about the safety chains used on power trucks to keep them attached to the frame...looks like same parts used on your brakes...we generally concluded modeling them on a loco might be too restrictive to operate on the curves typically used for layouts...have you considered using these safety chains on your locos? 

Keep up the great work!!!! More please.... 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Craig, Hi Dirk, 
I purchase the shackles from modelsforsale.com in the UK. With regards to casting the clevises...no thanks. I have made a lot and would have certainly bought them if they had been available in 1/29, but I haven't seen any yet. 
For the clevises I use the following; 
0.030" plasticard 3/16 x 5/16 x 2 
0.060" square rod 0.150" long x 2 
0.060 dia rod x 1, 
3/32" dia. tube. 
I glue the square rod either side of the end on the 0.060 dia. rod, then attach the 0.030" flat pieces each side so that the square rods projects back from the edge about 0.060" see pictures above. This allows the square pieces to be cut at about 45 degrees and blended to the rod. The tuning fork type end can be filed to a radius and drilled. If using two clevises on the end of a brake plank make sure the inner clevis is deeper. If the clevis is to be used at the end of the brake rod from the brake cylinder or it needs to be a little more beefed up I use 3/32" dia. tube and file two shoulders on the end to give the 0.060" clevis gap. Everything else is the same except if the clevis is to be uses at other locations I drill the tube to accept a 0.060" rod. This type is shown where the shackles are located. 
I'm sure this all as clear as mud, but they are quite simple to build and look very good when installed and painted. 
Cheers.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for the step by step. I've bookmarked this for future reference.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Harvey....THANks ..!! 

Good thing I can under stand "mud".eh!! 

Even easier since I used to make real ones from steel by hand.. using 1/2" to 1" plate, with holes from 1" - 1 1/2" diameter. 
These will be much easier. And can be produced in quantity. 
Thanks again for the lift!! 

Dirk


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## D-n-H - Kirkville Branch (Jan 14, 2008)

Wow very impressive scratch build, did you draw up the project before hand or is this design as you build?


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## harvey (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi, 
The real one, 12 inch to the foot, is only five miles away.
What I typically do is photograph just about all the details I can, print the pictures then go back and put the actual dimensions in the pictures, this saves me from making drawings etc..
I've done this with my latest project, the caboose. I've already made several visits for this project as well as for a couple of other projects that are crawling along. Thanks for your comments.
Cheers.


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