# Working wall lanterns scratchbuild



## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

For my station I scratched 4 wall mounted lanterns using a LED as lightsource;

First I cutted the clear parts. The dimensions of a clear part are: top 20 mm., bottom 10 mm., height 20 mm.
The 4 clear parts are glued together using 2.5 mm. L shaped strip (Evergreen 293).

This is how it looks like glued together:










Then I cutted a base from app.10 x 10 mm (just so it fits in the bottom of the lamp). In the base I drilled/filed a hole that fits the LED.










Small pastic strips are placed horizontally at the bottom:










Same thing on the top; app 20 x20 mm plate placed on top of the lantern:










On top of this I placed a square balse plate. The sides shaped in an 45 degree angle. On top of the balsa I placed a little square piece of plastic and again smaller piece on top of that. Off course you can file or cut the balsa in other desired forms, and decide to make the top different; just how you want the lantern to look like. 
Also little horizontal strips are placed along the top sides.










When the lantern is to be used outside it's important to 'seal' the balsa to make it weather resistant. I 'painted' a layer of waterproof whiteglue over the top of the lantern before I painted it in the color I want.

*Now on to part 2; the lamp support.*

I used 2 mm. brass wire (the core of a stripped electric wire) to construct the support. After decided how the support had to look like I made a little piece of wood as a stand. This helps soldering the pieces together. 










I soldered a low voltage electric wire on one of the legs of the LED. The other leg was soldered to the support. The lantern can be placed over the LED by the hole in the base. On the support I soldered another low voltage wire. I glued the support against the wall; the two wires are going through the wall to the inside of the building. 



















When everything works fine I painted the support in a green colour. This picture shows the LED on the support.










Depending on the colour of LED you can decide to tone the LED with clear colour to give it a nice shine (I used clear paint from Tamiya).

The final result. If you can paint bether than my sloppy work your lanterns will look just fine!!



















Hope you liked this ' how-to' and just give it a try once. It is easier than you think and it's fun to do!

Paul


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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

Paul, 

Great idea and excellent execution! 

Very nice job. 

Thanks for sharing,


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul, 

A very elegant solution, nicely executed. Thanks for the all of the "how to" photos. 

Mike


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

That wall bracket is particularly attractive. And, you settled a problem that I haven't gotten around to thinking about: how to illuminate my RR in the ca 1875 era--no electric. But they had gas! Great job!


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Thanks for the nice comments!


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## Ted_Roy (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice solution that I may have to use myself! Great work, and the how-to-photos really tell the story..


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## Seans_World (Aug 14, 2009)

Very nice idea! some pics of them powered on would be super too!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Good job!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

The sign says, "Place of the Train?"


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

The sign says, "Place of the Train?" 

Almost right! It's a French streetname sign meaning: "Station Square" 
(directly translated: Square of the Station) 

Very nice idea! some pics of them powered on would be super too! 

Here they are!! Played with shuttertime on camera to try to get a simular look as in reality. Notice that some of the lights are more yellow than others. This is because of the toning with clear paint. I toned some more as others to see what results it gives. I like the most yellow ones; they look like old electric glowbulbs or even bether: gaslights (like Les also mentioned). 





































Paul


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting, and very nice work. 

Years ago, I was going to make some brass H0 streetlamps. I still have scars from the attempt of soldering


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