# Bought a paasche airbrush



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello All
I have always wanted an airbrush but couldn't justify the price compared to the use it would get until I found one at a yard sale saturday. The guy wanted $20 for it and without negotiations dropped the price to $10. I couldn't pass it up. It is a brand new never out of the box Paasche kit "H" set. Is this considered a good airbrush? The box has a price tag of $52.40. Everything is there including an air compressor to run it, the only thing missing is the instructions. Online I found a 2 page parts list that tells of how to put it together but not how to use it. Does anyone have one of these and know where I can find directions for it? 
I'm yearning to start making a mess. 
Thanks
Todd


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

That's around the price they are on the "Evil Bay" Regal


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Todd

Here's a site that I ran across, maybe it'll be of help.









Airbrush Lessons[/b]


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

It would be good to have a regulator and a moisture trap. Let us know how it works out. I have used only Badger for 30 years, and have never had a chance to use a Paashe. 
Once you are "fired up" and running, practice, practice, practice. I used to test spray on soda cans painted black, or on cardboard until I had the right pressure. Once you get the feel, you will never go back to any other way to paint.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

If you got a brand new Paasche H AND a compressor for only $10, you got a steal (assuming the compressor is at all decent). In case you haven't figured it out yet, the H is a single-action, external-mix brush, meaning the atomization of the paint occurs outside of the brush itself. Great for most painting of large scale train items, and easier to clean than an internal-mix brush, but you don't have the independent, fingertip control of paint and air that a double-action internal-mix brush can provide (for shading, for example). The H is a good place to start, and you can decide later if higher-end brush would be any benefit to you. 

Most air brushing books are targeted to artists, I've found. This one is targeted to modelers like us and is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/How-Use-Airbr...=sr_1_6?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1288056220&sr=1-6 How to Use an Airbrush


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

Todd, here's a link for the Paasche "H" instructions: http://www.paascheairbrush.com/2008...20List.pdf

If you have the parts list you may also have the instructions as they are brief.

This is a good basic brush which is operated by the air siphoning paint through the nozzle. Here, it is practice, practice, practice and practice more to get a good finish.


I'm sure there are experts on MLS who know much more than I, but my principle suggestion is that you make a cannister to soften the pulse from your compressor. Generally, the air pressure is relatively low, so a regulator isn't required, but if you connect the air hose directly from the compressor to the airbrush, you will get a pulsing spray that can be difficult to control. 

Some use a large coffee can [or similar cannister]. Attach the compressor hose to one side of the can, and a second hose from the other side of the can to airbrush. When you turn the compressor on with this simple setup, you will find the air stream through the airbrush will be much smoother than if the airbrush was connected directly to the compressor.

Finally, with an airbrush, cleanliness is truly next to Godliness. Dried paint in the nozzle area will be your worst enemy.

Good luck and go for it.

Will


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

I am usually hesitant to tell my wife about my latest yard sale finds and especially something like an airbrush but I was very suprised last night when i told her. Expecting the usual "what are you going to do with that" I got a that is really neat response and when she heard how much it cost she was very pleased. The best part is she had taken art classes years ago before we met and she has experience with an airbrush. Now we are both looking for a project to paint and of course there will be lots of practise before hand. 
Thanks for the info guys I will check out the links. I did check out the one Thumper sent and that was the one I had found. Not much in the way of actual step by step directions but I guess that is all they have. 
Thanks 
Todd


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Good Find and buy! I had an H back in college... way back Mr. Peabody. lol 

If I remember correctly the needle adjustment is at the back end of the gun. 
A steady air source is the best thing you can do to improve the small compressor... add a tank and a regulator and a moisture trap. (here's where you'll pay) 

Since I already have a compressor for my pin nailers, I'd use the tank on that.... and add the moisture trap in line. 

John


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

That is quite the deal for a Paasche "H". Love mine, but then I do not like internal mix or dual action brushes. To each their own in that regard tho.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Todd,

That is a GREAT ARIBRUSH AND AN AMAZING FIND. I have had my H brush for 28 years!! I do periodically need to buy new tips for it (drop one and you will see why--bent neeldes splatter paint). It is a real work horse and very easy to learn to get a smooth finish. The above advice (practice and more practice) is good advice. 

My suggestion is hit a trian swap meet and buy some cheep old HO boxcars and strip them and start painting. Some basics:use quality paint, mix the pigments well, THIN the paint to the consistancy of milk with the appropriate solvent (I use Poly S paints and thin with winshield washer fluid), use an even spray pattern about 8 to 12 inches from the model, do not stop or change directions over the model--spray past the end.

I buy extra bottles, but check with Micro Mark, they have an adapter jar lid that will fit Poly S and Floquil bottles--now I save my empty paint bottles and clean them out to mix thinned paints for painting.

Just DO IT--it is a lot of fun to paint with an airbrush. Once you get comfortable with it you will not be happy with rattle cans again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I painted this engine with my H airbrush:










Get painting.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice job there Dr G 
Looking at the compressor last night that came with the airbrush it is a Badger with a price tag on the box of $115 !! 
This deal is getting better and better. I understand the need for a constant airflow when using a spray gun. Years ago I painted a boat and a visor for my truck. I bought a 15 gallon compressor for that and other automotive projects. I also have a 5 gallon which is alot quieter than the big one and I use that for my brad nailer when building stuff. Would I be better off using one of these compressors or should I build a coffee can type of tank that Thumper suggested? 
I'm not sure about a moisture trap like Total wrecker suggested so will have to look into one of those. 
I have one project in mind but will need lots of practise before attempting it. 
Thanks for the info guys.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

I _told _you you got a good deal at $10 if it included the compressor! 

I advise _against _the coffee can surge suppressor, because a coffee can is not a rated pressure vessel. Whenever the airflow is stopped at the gun, the tank will be full pressure. A coffee can could blow up on you, and "cheap" could become very expensive. The compressors you already have will work just fine, and better than a hobby compressor without a tank. I imagine they already have a regulator and gauge on them; if not, I'd add them to the end of a 1/4" hose near where you are working with the brush, and plug the brush hose into the regulator. That way it is easy to adjust as you work. On my setup, I leave the regulator on my 1.5hp/60gal compressor set at 100 psi for shop tools, then use a second, small regulator at the paint bench for the brush. 

The moisture trap should be as far away (downstream) of the compressor as possible to trap the water that will condense out of the air in the hose. Putting right on the compressor is not very effective, as the air is still hot at that point (from compression). I have mine just before the regulator at the paint bench. You can buy combo regulator/filter/moisture trap units. 

Since you already have two compressors that will do the job, you might be able to sell the Badger unit and come out ahead $-wise.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

I agree with Jim 100% and I have a setup similar to his. I have a shop compressor also set to about 100psi for the shop tools. I took an old computer talbe, put a lazy susan on it, bolted a pressure regulator and moisture trap from Harbor Freight and a quick disconnect to the compressor end, and I leave the aribrush hose on the other end. When I want to paint, I wheel the table to the car port, plug in the compressor air hose, set the regulator for the paint I am spraying (about 12 to 20 psi), hook up the airbrush and go. It works very well. Only problem is I really cant paint in the summer in Florida, too much humidity--just have not been able to convince my wife of the need for a spray booth in her house where the humidity and temp are perfect--oh well.

Matt


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Good reminder on the lazy susan, Matt. I also use a turntable. I didn't have an old lazy susan, so I bought the bearing assembly and mounted it between two plywood panels. I also have lots of long wire hooks to hang parts on to dry from a piece of EMT conduit spanning some collar ties in my garage. 
I've read about the high humidity problem with painting from other hobbyists in Florida, and none of them had a solution. Not a problem here in southern California!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Once you get the feel, you will never go back to any other way to paint. 

Truer words was never spoke! And I cheaped out and decided to spring for the $14.95 unit at Harbor Freight! I'm perfectly happy with it and perfectly happy with the results (see avatar). I'll be putting the company livery on my new GP-40 while cooped up for the winter, but probably start feeling like I'm ready for a luxury model at some point. As everyone else has pointed out, clean up is as important as anything else. 

Painting rolling stock has three steps: 
1 - masking. Time- approx. two hours 
2 - air brushing. Time - approx. two minutes 
3 - cleaning. Time - approx. two hours 

I forgot step 4. 
4 - looking at that professional paint job. Time - incalculable.


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I have custom painted for over 30 years. I used a Badger compressor, and now have a new Iwata. The moisture trap and the regulator were both mounted on the compressor. I paint in constant humidity Florida and have never had a problem with this set up. I have never had any pulsing problems. You are not dealing with a high PSI when you are airbrushing.


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## Dr G (Jan 16, 2008)

Bob, 

Are you painting indoors or outdoors. I paint outdoors, and find that in the summer (you know 100 degrees, 110 percent humidity) I get a significant orange peel rather than a smooth glossy finish. Now if I only had a place in the AC to paint!?


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

I paint in my garage with a simple paint booth and vent fan in cooler weather. In the summer, I paint out on my lanai. Your temps are higher than mine but the humidity is the same. I will probably put an A/C unit in my garage since I sweat a lot. I am in the Tampa area.


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

Check out this site on orange peel. 

http://www.finishwiz.com/orangepeel.htm


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