# worn out track



## Train Man2 (Oct 20, 2010)

Hello, I'm new to trains and I just took over a train department at Science Museum Oklahoma in Oklahoma City and I have fond that they have a few G scale trains that the front wheel have had the out side of the traction tire have been worn down to were the rubber won't stay on and that the train derails. Some are on the left side,some are on the right, because they run the trains clockwise when running passenger cars and counter clockwise with freight cars. I have fond that at every curve the inner flang on all of the outside rail of the track is almost gone if not gone completly, is this a sign that the track needs to be replaced any help on this I would be greatfull. thanks !!!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

As to track, the easiest thing (other than replacing all the curves) would be to get some single rail strips (I believe they come in 6 ft. sections) and use a rail bender to match the curvature of the outer rail that needs to be replaced. As to the wheels, it would be helpful to know what brand the locomotives are. Both Aristocraft and LGB had replacement drivers. They also had replacement traction tires as these would wear out periodically as well. I'd start there.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Back when I worked at a hobby shop we wore the inside of the heads of the outer rails in the curves on the basic oval of track. We simply replaced them at the store but I remember someone else someplace used a railbender to reverse those rails. Putting the worn side towards the outside. 

Chas


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## Robbie Hanson (Jan 4, 2008)

According to this website, they appear to be LGB 2-6-0s. http://www.sciencemuseumok.org/trains.html 

Traction tire replacement is the easiest option; Train-Li-USA or Watts Train Shop (google them) should have them.


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Measure the height of the rail before you try to reverse it. 
I have a big pile of german stuff in the basement from a restaurant, ran at least 10 hours a day for like 7-10 years. 
There is no saving most of it. 
The flanges hit the spike/retainer details. 

.332" high rail....and if it's below .300 or so, there isn't much head left. 

Buy new rail.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

We wear out the rails at the Chicago Botanic. Sometimes the side of the rail head is so worn that the flanges have made a notch in the rail web.

We wear out a lot of wheels too.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

One can do what the real Railroads use to do as that was to transpose the rail providing the head is not worn that much. By doing this you can save the cost of buying new for now and get a little more life out of it before buying new. Later RJD


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

True RJ, however, if is dealing with sectional curves your suggestion has several drawbacks:

1. All sectionals need to be taken apart. Depending on the track manufactuer this may destroy the joiners if joiners are used.
2. Turning it aorund requires to bend it the opposite way - piece by piece. You can even use a dual railbender for this process
3. Tedious assembly.

If it is flextrack take a dual rail bender straighten it out remove the rail from the ties and insert it the other way around and bend it again.

It is very unlikely that that rail is much lower, becasue the wheels don't actually run on the top of the railheads but on the inside of the railhead. Before the could destroy the entire railhead all cars will fall into the center of the track due to the fact that the rails are getting tooooo wide.


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## Train Man2 (Oct 20, 2010)

Thanks for all the great Info everybody..... I forgot to mention that they are sectionals 4 pieces per curve. and was wondering if I replaced them if flex track would be better or if sectional would be the way to go? And if any body that lives in the OKC area or traveling through that would like to come out and look at whats going on just send me a pm and I can make arangements for a visit. I work monday-friday 10-4/5 ish. Thanks Again TM2


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Axle several flaws in you diagnostic for transposing of rail. You do not need to rebend as you state. Transposing of rail is when you take the outer rail(High side) and bring it to the lower side and vise versa there for no reshaping required. One must understand what is done when talking about transposing of rail such as the 1 to 1 RRs use to do. Later RJD


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

RJ:

with all due respect that is not correct - at least not in our world. The mistake might be negligible if you are using 30' diameter curves but once you use even 20' diameter, you have the problem that your out rail is now too short and the inner rail is too long. Secondly the outer rail has a lesser radius than the inner and you will feel the effect if you exchange just as you state. Maybe that's what they did for the big trains, but not in our scale.

Make a simple test, take an LGB or Aristocrat R3 sectional track and exchange the inner to the outer and the outer to the inner rail. You will immediately see what I am saying.


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

Posted By Train Man2 on 26 Oct 2010 12:43 PM 
Thanks for all the great Info everybody..... I forgot to mention that they are sectionals 4 pieces per curve. and was wondering if I replaced them if flex track would be better or if sectional would be the way to go? And if any body that lives in the OKC area or traveling through that would like to come out and look at whats going on just send me a pm and I can make arangements for a visit. I work monday-friday 10-4/5 ish. Thanks Again TM2 
While I am a proponent of flextrack, flextrack requires a railbender for proper installation. If this is the only installtion you will be doing, it might be cheaper to buy new sectional track and throw the exisitng track away. As I pointed out to RJ changing the rails is not going to work for you. Rebending still requires a bender.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Axle I did not say that it would not have to be cut. My statement stands as is and will work. Ya maybe a slight rebend but its not that much and most can be formed by hand. Rail is rail no mater whether its 1 to 1 or 332 rail You can work it any way you want. I did not say it would be just a simple swap. There are always some give and take just like on the 1 to 1. Later RJD


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