# Is this a good table saw?



## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Ready to purchase my 1st table saw and I think I found a good deal. This Dewalt model #DW744X is on sale at $449 and on the first Thursday of every month...hehe Seniors and women get additional 10% off! Just gotta figure out how to actually get the wife ok with me buying it, then doing it for me
( I fear it may cost me lots more before it's over!







) *Features:* 








Exclusive, telescoping fence delivers 24-1/2" rip capacity without sacrificing portability
*







*
*Rack and Pinion fence rails make fence adjustments fast, smooth and accurate*








Telescoping rails retract within the saw top for easy portability








Features a 15.0 Amp high-torque motor with the power to cut pressure-treated lumber and hardwoods








Electronic feedback maintains blade speed during difficult applications








Soft start allows blade to smoothly come up to speed








Features a heavy-duty internal motor mechanism which stabilizes the arbor, keeping vibration to a minimum








2" Dust Collection Port easily connects to a vacuum for efficient dust extraction








3-1/8" depth of cut at 90° and 2-1/4" at 45°








26-1/2" X 19-1/4" table surface provides superior material support











IS this a good deal?


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

I really like mine and I can take it in the yard or where ever I am building and it works well.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

It the one I have been using for the past 8 years or so. Its been a reliable workhorse for all types of work. It took a bit of time initially to set up the fence but I have not had to make any adjustments since. 

-Brian


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't have that particular saw but my experience with the considerable number of DeWalt tools I have has been that they were all excellent!! If I was in the market for a portable tablesaw that's the one I would look at.


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## Bunker (Feb 7, 2009)

If you do not need the saw to be portable and have the space, I would recommend a used "contractors saw, or used cabinet saw". 

Some of the "bench top saws" have proprietary accessories, (you must buy their accessories to fit). Jigs and fixtures for convenient functionality must be theirs and are often expensive to buy, unlike their base unit. 

Some are direct drive, like a drill. They'll lack power and can easily overload and burn out. A belt drive with a 1.5 to 5 HP motor, and a good quality sharp saw blade, will hardly break a sweat cutting the toughest hardwood and some will even have the connections to wire in at 220 VAC. (I will have my best brand new blades [and other new cutting tools] sharpened professionally out of the box.) 


It all depends on how you plan to use the saw. Most "homeowner saws" are plenty durable with enough functionality for the occasional user. If you plan to build or remodel a house, I would suggest a used, cast iron bed, stationary table saw.


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## Bunker (Feb 7, 2009)

P.S. For small hobby shop type work, consider a 14" (or larger) band saw.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

John - I have the DeWalt saw you're considering and I'm 100% happy with it. I had an old inexpensive Skil 10" table saw which served me for years, but it was impossible to do really good work with it, and keeping the fence parallel to the blade was impossible. I replaced it with the DeWalt. I looked at quite a few saws before making my decision, and the rack and pinion fence was a big plus in the DeWalt's favor. 

I don't use it heavily - three or four times a year - but it does a great job when I do need it. I replaced the supplied contractor's blade with a good quality finishing blade and the results were great. Very smooth cuts with no edge splintering and virtually no finish sanding required. The only real add-ons I've bought are the outfeed and side supports and a dado set. Haven't needed anything else.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

thank you guys... I will only use it frequently and NOT be building any houses. Mainly for trestle bents! Oh and the new tiki bar I would love to have this summer. I did not way the option of being able to move this thing around out in the yard (job site). After considering this I want it even more. Now what type thin blade do I need?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Now what type thin blade do I need?
Like I said, I bought a "finishing blade" from Home Depot. Cost me about $50.00 if memory serves. It isn't thin - about 1/8" wide cuts, which is about standard. Does a terrific job though.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Speaking of Table Saws. How many of you have seen, used or have, a table saw with a GRANITE TOP. Yea A marble table top on the saw. I saw one for the first time at Home Depot. 

The slot for the squar was chiped and it was on sale.


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## 3lphill (Feb 22, 2008)

Good Morning,
Take a look at http://www.matsushitaamerica.com/ saw blades. And then make Friends with your local sharpening shop.


Phillip


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## Bunker (Feb 7, 2009)

Again I would ask, how do you plan to use the saw and what are you cutting? If, as you wrote, you plan to cut trestle lumber, if you are starting with a cedar post, then a 40-60 tooth blade will work for ripping (cutting with the grain) and cross-cutting (across the grain). 
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20099


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

For cutting cedar I use a thin kerf, carbide tipped, 60 tooth blade I got at HarborFreight for $10 years ago. Still works great. 
I have my saw on a homemade wood stand (from 2x4s) with a wheel kit and dust bag from HF. Cutting cedar can be dusty so its good to do it outdoors or hooked up to a shop vac. Don't forget eye protection and a dust mask. 

- Brian


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## wildbill001 (Feb 28, 2008)

Not familiar with that saw but couple of things to think about when buying any tablesaw.

1) Is the throat-plate (the thing the saw-blade comes up through) a stamped piece of steel? _Usually _stamped steel throat-plates are difficult if not impossible, to replace with a zero-clearance throat. Zero-clearance is very handy to have when cutting small, thin pieces.


2) How much table is in front of the blade? some of the table-top saws have almost no space in front of the blade which makes getting a cut started difficult

My experience with DeWalt, like others on this list, have been stellar. No reason to believe otherwise with the table-saw.

Hope that helps some.

Bill


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## imrnjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have one that I got 5 years ago and have used it to cut a multitude of different sized materials from 1x and 2x, 4x4s, 4x8 beams to 4x16 glulams, and various sized sheet goods for construction of an apartment in my barn, a pergola in the back yard and 1000's of various sized ripped pieces as small as 3/8x3/8 for trestle stringers and braces. You need to tune it to square the blade, fence and level the insert, and get a good blade but that's all. Make sure you have a good outfeed table and/or side table if cutting long stock or sheet goods to help keep the cut square and clean. It's only drawback is power when cutting very large stock like 4x6 or 8 beams, but how often do you do that?? (8 cuts in 5 years for me!







)

I replaced the folding stand with a roll around box stand. I built the stand to the same height as my make up/assembly table so I can use the assembly table as an out feed table. The stand also allows me to control and capture the sawdust generated a little easier.

Good luck with the saw I think you'll be satified.









Mark


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By wildbill001 on 05/24/2009 11:30 AM
Not familiar with that saw but couple of things to think about when buying any tablesaw.

1) Is the throat-plate (the thing the saw-blade comes up through) a stamped piece of steel? _Usually _stamped steel throat-plates are difficult if not impossible, to replace with a zero-clearance throat. Zero-clearance is very handy to have when cutting small, thin pieces.

*The throat plate pops out easily to replace with a dado or other plate. It also has screws to adjust its height to be level with the table. I made my own zero clearance plate from an old plastic cutting board my wife was tossing.*


2) How much table is in front of the blade? some of the table-top saws have almost no space in front of the blade which makes getting a cut started difficult

*The blade is in the middle of the table so there is plenty of space to you wood lined up before cutting.* 


-Brian


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## chrisb (Jan 3, 2008)

I've never used one of these, but I've own a couple of motorized table saws that were other brands. I've mainly done carpentry with them though a little cabinet work with one. It's hard to beat a cast iron top
for accuracy. My complaint with motorized saws is there seemed to be a slight slop or run out (side to side movement in the blade) that i have not seen with a belt driven saw.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't have a DeWalt saw, but every other tool I have from them is very high quality. I bet the table saw is first rate. Use a DeWalt 8 1/4" thin kerf, 40 tooth, carbide tipped construction blade in that baby and you will get glass smooth glue lines every time.

Get rid of the stock throat plate as others mention and make your own zero clearance plates.

Get rid of the stock table leg thing too and make a cabinet like this. Use nice, heavy duty, lockable casters to move it around. Router table part is nice, but optional:













You will be in business.


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

I swear by mine. I originally had a Sears Craftsman and burned it up. I like the DeWalt SO MUCH, I bought a second one. I will keep the dado blades in one and rip in the other. Use zero clearance plastic inserts and real good blades. Having cut miles of trestle parts and board and batten siding and shingles, I can't say enough about it. B&D is a home town (Towson) company that supported the Maryland & Pennsylvania RR. Still in their original building, long after the RR died.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

thank you to everyone! I think this is the saw for me, but... there were many different blades suggested. Yes, I will be using 12' cedar boards that come in many different sizes. What is the square size of a scale bent?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Depends upon the scale actually. A 10x10 in 1:20.3 is roughly 1/2" square. In 1:29 it would be roughly 11/32. 

A 12x12 in 1:20.3 is roughly 19/32. In 1:29 it would be roughly 13/32. 

Use the following formula... 

Timber size in inches / scale 

Ex. 12x12 in 1:20.3 

12" / 20.3 = 0.591" 

To convert to 32nds, multiply decimal fraction by 32 

0.591 * 32 = 18.916 = 19/32


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Weellll.....

I can tell already you're in love with it.

Consider this: It looks like it's got a polymer table and aluminum fittings. Poly can warp over time, crack from UV exposure, get brittle when cold--that's just a fast overlook. Aluminum has a habit of springing out of true if it gets hit with a sharp blow.

It's a direct drive saw. That means the motor is attached directly to the sawblade. It has a heavy motor, so a jam might send the workpiece back into your soft middle parts instead of stalling the saw. Since it has 'electronics', it might have overload/stall protection. You should check on this feature.

In the future you might want to add a molding head. With a belt-drive saw, you can add a double-step pulley to the motor to 'up' the rpms when doing molding cuts. (Cleaner, crisper cuts.) With a direct drive, you've got one speed only.

Do what another person has said and put a substantial base under it. You don't want to be ripping something long and heavy while your saw writhes around out there in front of you about six feet.

If you intend to take it out in the yard, make sure you've got a heavy enough extension cord to carry that kind of current. Those are expensive. And 15 amps means, unless you have up-to-date wiring, a dedicated circuit. 20 amp.

Lightweight saws tend to bounce around, or vibrate. That's one of the advantages of cast iron.

There is an alignment feature on any good saw: the 'heel' alignment. That is to make sure or be able to set the saw carriage so that the rotation of the blade is exactly parallel to the miter gage slots. Make sure that the rip fence is also parallel to both.

If the motor shoots craps, you're out of a saw, in practical terms. With a belt-driven one, you change the motor.

In any case, enjoy your saw. The VERY FIRST project you want to make is a PUSH STICK. The second is a HEEL BLOCK. That way, you get to keep all your fingers as long as you want.









Les


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

it IS only $400... 


what's a heel block?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

The table is cast iron I believe. The saw is good and heavy and doesn't bounce around. I too was suspicious of the seemingly spindly stand, but it's actually good and stout, at least in so far as supporting the saw goes (like I said, the saw is heavy and doesn't bounce around at all). 

I did once have something catch and fling back, catching me in the abs on its way to the wall. My fault for standing behind the blade, something I'm normally very careful not to do, and using no guard. On the whole, I have a very healthy respect for any table saw bordering on paranoia (too many gory "safety films" in high school shop class), but complacency happens regardless.


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## Bunker (Feb 7, 2009)

This is a table saw: http://www.sawstop.com/contractor/contractor_home.php


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

If they won't disclose the price up front on their website, I'm betting I couldn't afford it.


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

$2899.00 it is there.He changed the url.


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## Marauderer (Jan 5, 2008)

Dynamite Tool Co wants $1599.00 for it. It's a really nice saw but???


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 05/25/2009 9:42 AM
thank you to everyone! I think this is the saw for me, but... there were many different blades suggested. Yes, I will be using 12' cedar boards that come in many different sizes. What is the square size of a scale bent? 

I recommend a 50 tooth thin kerf general purpose/combination blade such as a Freud LU83R. The thin kerf requires less power than a "standard" 1/8" kerf. The combination teeth will work for both ripping and cross-cutting. The 50T will give a smoother finish in thin material than would a 40T. Save this as your "good" blade, using the 24T blade that comes with the saw for rough work.
-Jim


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

I also have the saw, and I have been very happy with it. I looked around a LOT. There are many better saws out there, but there is also a huge jump in price to the next level. For my needs, it has suited quite well. I don't know specifically where I bought them, but I Googled to find zero clearance plates, and got two for under $15. Les has a very good suggestion - push sticks. I use them constantly. 

Have fun! 
Matt


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

A little late, but here it goes anyway. Those types of table saws make really good work site table saws. My first saw was a Rockwell 10" contractors table saw. At the time that was considered a worksite table saw,,, I'm not sure why, I nearly broke my back dragging it around. I've owned a newer lighter delta 10" work site table saw and was not satisfied with it. It could be picked up easily and thrown on the back of the truck, but it was useless on heaver larger stock. It just didn't have the weight to keep it stable and the fence couldn't take the pressures of wider heavier stock being slammed against it. 
Even on the lighter stuff it lacked the accuracy and ease of setup that I continue to have with my old contractors saw, which I put a Beismeyer fence on about 20 years ago when they first came out. 
Another thing I don't like about the newer job site table saws: You can't rip plywood on them length wise. Even with the old fence on the Rockwell I could do this with a little difficulty. 
Lastly, if you find you really need a more accurate fence, how are you going to mount one? 
I would save up and at a minimum get a contractors table saw. 
The Dewalt model #DW744X is a great jobsite table saw. Good for applications where you need to rip some trim or some scrap 2x for shims and what not. But for a good shop table saw, you'll want something with more girth. 
That being said, if you don't ever plan on ripping or cross cutting large sheets of ply or mdf,,, or large stock of any kind, ignore everything I said about. I just felt like putting in my 2 &cents;


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

thanks, 
What is a "heel block" ?


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

I have that saw myself. I can guarantee that it works fine. It is sitting my garage never to be used by me again.
You see, it is the saw that I came close to losong two fingers making a RR project that I shud have bought from the vendor. I donot care what saw you have, just be extremely careful. Thye bite very quickly.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Another thing I don't like about the newer job site table saws: You can't rip plywood on them length wise. Even with the old fence on the Rockwell I could do this with a little difficulty.
I've cut plywood on my DeWalt Richard. While it helps to have some help with something that bulky, at least for those of us not lucky enough to have room for outfeed tables and the like, it isn't absolutely necessary if you have a chair or stool of appropriate height handy. The optional DeWalt Outfeed and Side Supports help here as well. 

I'm not trying to push this saw on Bible or anyone else btw - just factually passing on my experience with this particular tool I own. For the money, it's hard to beat and will do just about anything I need it to do!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow Gibs, sorry to hear that and trust me, POINT TAKEN! Wanna sell your saw? I'll be in Ruston La. in July...


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Gibs, 
Safety first for sure! I've come awful close to loosing a finger, and once was almost dragged through a big 16 inch saw when my new wedding ring go snagged in a sliver and I couldn't reach the feeder buttons. I finally ripped the splinter off, deformed my ring and had one big nasty splinter in the middle of my ring finger and the middle finger. Another time on panel cutter I just cut a clean line across my nail when I forgot about the scoring blade underneath. Didn't break the skin, only part of the nail. 
Dwight, 
Not having any experience with the dewalt, I'd have to take your word for it. I just know it was near impossible on the delta without clamping the thing down. Even then the cut took for ever and was not clean. That's ok for acx, but any better grade of ply I wouldn't risk ruining them. Floor space can be an issue if you're not willing to put your saws on rollers. I have all my equipment on rollers and am constantly jockeying them around to a spot where I can use the. Not fun, but I make due.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I have a Ryobi: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...51&langId=-1&catalogId=10&productId=100058430 My model may be slightly older 

The plate has a lot of space in it so the blade can tilt, consequently, wood gets stuck in there. I took off the plate and made my own. The other issue, is that that's no splitter and no place to attach a splitter. I understand that a splitter (a fin just past the blade), helps to keep the wood from closing up and binding and then exploding or going crazy. 

Also, the dust cover gets in the way a lot. I have taken it off when using the table saw. I've been using it extensively for about 3-4 years and have cut all my ties, wood flooring and so on. i wear thick gloves, full face mask and use a push stick and clamps. I've never had close calls with fingers but have had wood explode when a hidden knot hits the blade. 

I've also used the table saw to cut aluminum and steel with a metal cutoff wheel.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I have a newer Ryobi 10", the splitter is attached to a round post on the back wall of the box and fits underthe dust cover, but I find it useless as it tends to lean away from 90 degrees. I work out side and use safety glasses instead of the cover. Getting the fence parallel to the blade is the most inportant set up for me, then a feather board and several push sticks and never stand directly behind the blade, wooden bullets hurt!

I only use it to rough cut planks (2 3/4" thick) down to managable sizes and then use an old sears 8" bench model with a 1/8th masonite table top cover. My fence will work over it.

The Ryobi was on sale and I had a gift card to spend. It's ok and hasn't stalled as I push 50 yr old cedar through it. I salvaged a roof! It's ok for the price, but I wouldn't recomend it as a do-all saw.
John


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 05/26/2009 8:01 AM
it IS only $400... 


what's a heel block?








John,

A heel block is just a 1x4" piece of lumber about 6" long. (Cut it the length you like best save that it should be a couple of inches longer than your fingers. Use a bandsaw or ripsaw and take about 1" slice down one side, to within 1 or 1-1/2" of the end, then cut at right angles so you have something that looks like a fat 'L' with a short foot. How you use them is usually in conjunction with the push stick on small pieces of wood, or ripping when you get down to the point where your thumb will be in the near vicinity of the blade. You put the 'heel block' behind the wood and running up alongside and use the push stick to hold it down, lest it wants to rise up off the table while being ripped. This gives you good postive feed control and no thumbs involved.

You say, "Oh, but I'm going to rip 5/8" wide, and my push stick is 3/4" thick." Well, it won't be after the first pass.







Or you might think, "How can I rip my 5/8" bents with a foot that's an inch long?" Well, again, push the work through the saw (being mindful of your thumb) and lo, you'll have another custom tool for your saw, one with a 5/8" heel. You can make push sticks and heel blocks to your heart's content for particular cuts.

Also, go find at a library, used bookstore, or Amazon, 'How to Use a Table Saw'. Sears used to sell them. You might find something free on Google, even. There are an amazing number of things you can do with a table saw that you cannot with a radial arm saw. While you're nosing around, keep an eye out for booklets called "Common Jigs and Fixtures for the Woodworker". Or suchlike title.

I would hazard to advance the notion that, of all the tools called 'basic', a table saw, drill press and grinder are about the three most basic, though a band saw is certainly nice to have. Did you know you can 'hog out' slots in a piece of wood with a bandsaw? Ya gotta be careful and feed slowly, but you can. (They don't tell that one in any book, because it'll get you in trouble fast if you're impatient, unlucky or careless.)

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 05/26/2009 8:46 AM
The table is cast iron I believe. The saw is good and heavy and doesn't bounce around. I too was suspicious of the seemingly spindly stand, but it's actually good and stout, at least in so far as supporting the saw goes (like I said, the saw is heavy and doesn't bounce around at all). 

I did once have something catch and fling back, catching me in the abs on its way to the wall. My fault for standing behind the blade, something I'm normally very careful not to do, and using no guard. On the whole, I have a very healthy respect for any table saw bordering on paranoia (too many gory "safety films" in high school shop class), but complacency happens regardless.








If the table is cast iron, that's great. But that aluminum rip fence looks pretty fragile. I'm not downing the saw, I suspect it'll do everything John wants to do. The best type of rip fence is a hefty one that locks on the front and back rails--or at least pulls against the back rail (the one farside of the blade from the operator.) Ratcheting 'sets' are nice, but how secure are the lockdown clamps? And with that extruded aluminum, is there a means to mount a faceboard? That's so you don't accidentally set such a narrow rip that your saw blade gets to meet the rip fence. You see that a lot on old table saw fences. With a board, you've got no problem: screw it up, replace it. Also, for certain molding work, you can make a half-moon on one and have a bit of clearance for the head. Also, that saw doesn't look like the fence will interchange, left to right. There are times you want to use the l/h side of the saw.

Actually, your 'fling back' probably wasn't your fault: you need a push stick to hold the workpiece down, they like to go airborne. Another way is to mount a--guess what?-- hold-down finger on your rip fence board. That'll keep UFO's to a minimum. Those little 'rip guards' they put on saws are as dangerous as anything I've seen: there are times when you want, very badly, to pull the work backwards, and there you have those dumb things locking up on you, so you've got to hold everything steady and fumble for the off switch, which usually means you have your face even closer to where all the action is. I don't use them at all. Ditto with that plastic shield. I want to see what's going on at the point of cut. That's what safety glasses are for. Those, I heartily recommend.

Les


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By gibs035 on 05/27/2009 10:15 AM
I have that saw myself. I can guarantee that it works fine. It is sitting my garage never to be used by me again.
You see, it is the saw that I came close to losong two fingers making a RR project that I shud have bought from the vendor. I donot care what saw you have, just be extremely careful. Thye bite very quickly.








Gibs,

Might I suggest that you sell/get rid of/give away that saw? I do not for a moment think ill of you in any way. Sometimes we all err, and I've done it myself--using my molding head freehand to put some _inside_ radii on brackets for my fireplace mantle. That was very far up the scale of the stupidest things I've done. At any point those blocks could've grabbed and sucked my fingers right in. I still clench my teeth when I remember.

Trying to use a tool one is afraid of is more dangerous yet. Healthy respect isn't the same as fear. The chance of hurting yourself again are higher, because of the tension involved.

Don't feel alone. I have a healthy respect for all my power tools save my bandsaw. And guess which one of 'em I got a fingernail gnawed down to where the meat is? Hm? I'm not afraid of the bandsaw, but I'm sure pissed at myself.









Les


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Quote from Les: "so you've got to hold everything steady and fumble for the off switch" 

This is the #1 improvement I think that needs to be made with table saws; perhaps a foot pedal off switch. I use my knee to hit the switch on mine when I need 2 hands on the wood but need to stop cutting for one reason or another.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Also check the blade height. To low and the piece will ride up the blade and be flung back, too high and its a bit dangerous. You want it high enough to clear any crowns on the piece or unevenness. Keep in mind that often the first part of the board is sniped. That happens when it comes out the planer and there is only one roller contacting the surface. If the board isn't joinged, you end up with it rocking up in to the cutters at the end. 
So be careful when you are sitting your blade height that you aren't measuring the height from the sniped end.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By SE18 on 05/29/2009 7:13 AM
Quote from Les: "so you've got to hold everything steady and fumble for the off switch" 

This is the #1 improvement I think that needs to be made with table saws; perhaps a foot pedal off switch. I use my knee to hit the switch on mine when I need 2 hands on the wood but need to stop cutting for one reason or another.








My ancient (?) --bought new ca 1973--Craftsman 10" has the power switch located right up under the table where it's easy to whack to turn off. The switch is so mounted that it extremely easy to hit for 'off'. I also upgraded the original cheap rip fence system to the best of the time, two angle bars and a heavy stamped steel rip fence as long as the table is. (Got 'em free, long story.) It has a 2 hp 'rated' motor, a belt drive which stalls or slips when things go amuck. I've used the snot out of it since I bought it, up until the last few years. I got a little 6" Dunlap--the one where the table itself tilts-- and use it almost exclusively now. And I wouldn't recommend any Sears tool today, howsumever. They are junky and the warranty is no good. To wit: I bought a Craftsman 3/8" reversible at a garage sale. $3. It had a bad chuck. "Oh, my lucky day," thinks I. Took it to the Sears store, found the replacement chuck it needed--but they said, "We can't give you free parts." I said, "Ok, give me a new drill." They said, "We don't make that model anymore, so it's out of warranty. We only warranty in-production items." So I went home and put a chuck on out of my stock. Now we know, ladies, why they come out with new models so often.

Les


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Here is the slickest table saw accessory I've found for ripping small pieces safely: GRR-Ripper Adjustable Push Block It completely changes your idea of what you can do safely. Well worth the money, IMHO, for model size work.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I can see that thing 'gripping' the workpiece to the point where it sqeezes against the sawblade. And, what happens to the materail lost in the kerf? Does the piece get loose in the gripper, then? Anyone try one of these?


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## imrnjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I think I would rather utilze a pair of feather boards to hold the outside edges and push blocks to feed with. I just don't think you need to put your hands directly over the sawblade ever!! 

and yes Les I have a great deal of respect for all my tools hand, bench, floor or field ....carelessness, or even seemingly careful misuse of the tool to compensate for lack of appropriate help or planning can cause considerable pain and blood loss. (I speak from personal experience on this....







)

The tools I'm most respectful of are the 3hp Shaper/router table with an open bit, and of course the table saw. I just will not work by myself on long or cumbersom large stock without appropriate infeed and outfeed support. Just too freakin' dangerous......

Mark


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By imrnjr on 06/05/2009 9:28 AM
I think I would rather utilze a pair of feather boards to hold the outside edges and push blocks to feed with. I just don't think you need to put your hands directly over the sawblade ever!! 

/// Hi, Mark,

I don't have featherboards. They were after my time. I have spring-steel 'fingers', the bases of which screw to the wood facings of the rip fence. Once the bases are mounted you can get both vertical & horizontal 'in' pressure ( 'in' = in towards the fence) fore & aft of the blade. I've threatened to make some featherboards, but I'm beginning to face the fact that I no longer need 10" table saws w. all the goodies, jointers, arc and gas welders, shapers---heck, using my router sets my teeth on edge . And that's in a nice, safe table. Not only that, the shriek of a router sets my teeth on edge. I'm thinking of selling all of the heavy stuff and keep only what it takes to model RR. I've got an old Dremel drill press, for pete's sake (I used to run a Bridgeport II) and have an industrial benchmount drill press, Fordham Walker? that I've never turned on, with the 'router' attachments'. It takes my 27 yr old son to lift it onto the bench I made for it. But I've never gone ahead and bolted it down and set it up. 

and yes Les I have a great deal of respect for all my tools hand, bench, floor or field ....carelessness, or even seemingly careful misuse of the tool to compensate for lack of appropriate help or planning can cause considerable pain and blood loss. (I speak from personal experience on this....







)

//// Weeelllll.... as much as I agree with your point, both you and I know that sometimes 'there ain't no other way to get 'er done'. Sometimes you just have to grit your teeth, say a little prayer, and 'git 'er done'. Oddly enough, the only tool that ever drew blood was a stupid little bandsaw. I don't count the times I've slashed my hand on a mounted two-flute mill bit, while setting the work up. I somehow got in the habit of doing that as a greenhorn, and never got over it. But never hurt myself while actually running the tool. Now, I've used up/wore out five chainsaws in the logwoods. (Years 'n years ago.) So, a couple of years ago, what do I do? I followed through with a cut, and let the sawbase rest on my knee, just like I always have, like some young dude--except somewhere, something went away. (Strength.) And I put that chain right into the knee of my jeans. It was all idled down, but the chain was still running in fits and starts. I got the wife to wrap my knee up and went back to cutting firewood. My son heard of it and got me, took me to the store, and said, "Pick out something small." I got one of these 12" Stihl Mini Boss saws that's ever so perfect. I love that saw, yet I remember when I sneered at such a bar length as 'City Boy Stuff'. Ain't sneering now. (BTW: want a good chainsaw? Buy a Stihl.)

The tools I'm most respectful of are the 3hp Shaper/router table with an open bit, and of course the table saw. I just will not work by myself on long or cumbersom large stock without appropriate infeed and outfeed support. Just too freakin' dangerous......

/// I bought an older Craftsman shaper some few years ago, and it's been sitting on the floor of my shop ever since. I know I'll never mount it, now. I'm wore out. I'm saving for a MicroMark mill, but I doubt I'll ever buy it. Might. Got to have something to look forward to. But two grand just to mill itsy bitsy stuff? I dunno. I get by with using roller stands fore and aft on my 10" table saw. I have to since the wife got too crippled up to be my 'outfeed man'. Of course, I don't do much of that anymore, either. I got to thinking: I haven't even turned that saw on in the last couple of years. I use the little Dunlap 6" downstairs. Gettin' old comes naturally--gettin' used to the idea doesn't. 

Les

Mark


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Les on 05/30/2009 7:46 PM
I can see that thing 'gripping' the workpiece to the point where it sqeezes against the sawblade. And, what happens to the materail lost in the kerf? Does the piece get loose in the gripper, then? Anyone try one of these?




There is nothing to cause any squeezing against the blade, only downward and forward force. Think of it as a much-improved pushstick/heelblock combination. The material lost in the kerf becomes sawdust, just like it always does. There is a grip pad on each side of the blade, so nothing gets loose. And yes, I have tried one of these - I wouldn't have recommended it otherwise.
-Jim


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By RimfireJim on 06/05/2009 3:09 PM
Posted By Les on 05/30/2009 7:46 PM
I can see that thing 'gripping' the workpiece to the point where it sqeezes against the sawblade. And, what happens to the materail lost in the kerf? Does the piece get loose in the gripper, then? Anyone try one of these?




There is nothing to cause any squeezing against the blade, only downward and forward force. Think of it as a much-improved pushstick/heelblock combination. The material lost in the kerf becomes sawdust, just like it always does. There is a grip pad on each side of the blade, so nothing gets loose. And yes, I have tried one of these - I wouldn't have recommended it otherwise.
-Jim 











Works for me!









Les


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## imrnjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Les-- 

Yeah... your right, sometimes you just have to go do it however you can. Living out in the country and being a small farming and ranching operator create a lot of opportunity for having to do something by yourself on a nearly daily basis that can get you hurt, irrespective of age or physical condition.

I ain't wore out yet, but as I get a little more used up I tend think about it a lot more before I go do it.... to the point my lovely bride has accused me of procrastination!!!









Mark

*Good judgement comes from years of experience..... and experience is mostly made up of bad judgement!!*


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Finally brought the new saw in the kitchen and set it up tonight. What is wrong with this throat plate? Looks pretty tight to me.... Unless cutting VERY small stuff...?

















isn't she beautiful?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Plate looks ok to me,,, for rough cuts on fairly large stock, the wide gap allows for tilt cuts. 

When I'm cutting scale wood I use a thin 1/8" tempered Masonite sheet over the table top, set with clamps. 
With the saw running I tilt the masonite from the back edge to the blade, keeping my hands to the sides. The blade cuts a tighter hole and less will fall through. My fence will fit over the masonite, I have heard of one person using mylar plastic.... you do lose the use of the slide grooves, unless allowed for.


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 06/13/2009 8:50 PM
Plate looks ok to me,,, for rough cuts on fairly large stock, the wide gap allows for tilt cuts. 

When I'm cutting scale wood I use a thin 1/8" tempered Masonite sheet over the table top, set with clamps. 
With the saw running I tilt the masonite from the back edge to the blade, keeping my hands to the sides. The blade cuts a tighter hole and less will fall through. My fence will fit over the masonite, I have heard of one person using mylar plastic.... you do lose the use of the slide grooves, unless allowed for.

There is a safer way of making a zero-clearance throat plate: With the saw off, lower the blade all the way and put your throat plate material over the table and clamp it in place. THEN turn the saw on, and raise the blade through the material to cut the slot for the blade.

I recommend a zero-clearance insert rather than an overlay. It is a little more work to make one (use the original insert as a pattern), but it lasts a long time and doesn't affect any other operation of the saw (miter gauge grooves, fence). You can make an insert for any saw blade angle; 90° and 45° are convenient ones to have on hand. My saw has a zero-clearance insert in it almost all the time.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

cool idea on the overly, now.... what type "cheap" material do I use? thin Luon board?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd also recommend a good "finishing" blade. Much cleaner cuts with virtually no splintering - even on plywood. The contractors blade that came with the saw is okay if you're building 1:1 houses. Model work generally requires something finer.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

like 40+ tooth or something? 

Going to Menards RIGHT NOW!


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 06/15/2009 2:24 PM
like 40+ tooth or something? 

Going to Menards RIGHT NOW!

See my post about halfway down on page 2 of this very thread. You probably won't find it at Menards. Go to a contractor-oriented tool supplier.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

I'm fixing to use Luan, and shim underneath to bring it up to table level, if necessary.

I think another name for these 'finishing blades' is a 'plywood blade'. It's got a herd of teeth/inch. Gives smooth cuts like everyone says.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

John: You need a very close fitting zero clearance throat plate for any model sized work. That stock throat plate is fine for real life furniture (maybe) or framing the house, not model work. Make one to fit the table and raise the saw blade up and thru it. You will also need a sacrificial fence on the miter gauge so you can do "zero clearance" cross cuts too. Long enough to support the wood on both sides of the cut. The stock miter gauge is not wide enough to safely cross cut anything. Read up on the use of "feather boards" You will need them to safely rip thin stock. As well as "push sticks"

Here's a thread I did a while back on cutting scale lumber on the table saw.



http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/ForumArchives/tabid/100/Default.aspx?TOPIC_ID=46385 
Bob


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

They had the plywood blade but I got this..... should I take it back and swap them out?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

That looks a lot like what I got John. I couldn't be happier with mine. 

I'd check mine for you, but right now the saw is buried under a couple feet of crap.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Mr. Ennis, it is time for you to start another project that involves you using that thing! Can never have too many bents eh?


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Go ahead and get the plywood blade, too. 

I think a couple of mine are in the 120 tooth range (or is that 160, or 180?? can't recall right off). 

The one pictured would be acceptable for general cutting. 

You may wish to consider cabide tipped blades for longer life. 

Also a "Thin-Rim Satin Cut" blade is nice for finish stuff. Nice narrow kerf...


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 06/16/2009 8:47 AM
Mr. Ennis, it is time for you to start another project that involves you using that thing! Can never have too many bents eh?


I have the projects - just don't have the time.


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## Les (Feb 11, 2008)

If the plywood blade had lots more tiny teeth, yeah, go swap. Somebody mentioned 'satin cut' blades, I think that was a Sears name, but if so or not, that's what I have in mind. Lots more teeth than what you're showing, there.


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