# Anchoring buildings



## sbendall (Mar 20, 2013)

Hi there,

I have some g scale pola buildings that I am fixing up and planning to put outside. Some of the buildings don't have their base plates and was seeking some advise on how best to secure the buildings outside so they don't blow away in strong wind

Thanks

Simon


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

You could use cement backer board as a base plate. This is the material that is used under bathroom tile. It is available in 3' x 5' sheets from Home Depot or Lowe's. One manufacture is Hardy board, another is Durock. You can scribe it with a razor knife, and snap and break it to size. Use Goop, or construction adhesive to attach your building. In some applications, cut it larger and it makes for a good sidewalk.


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I second the use of concrete backer board. I used silicone caulk to attach the vinyl blind "platforms" to the backer board. I decided not to attach the station itself so that I could store it for the winter. I suppose the entire piece could be stored if space permitted.


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## MikeMcL (Apr 25, 2013)

backyardRR said:


> I used silicone caulk to attach the vinyl blind "platforms" to the backer board.


I like that idea! Looks good. Are they mini-blinds?


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

No, they were full size vinyl blinds. When I replaced them (with mini-blinds) I knew I could find a use for them on the RR. 3 windows so I have 
plenty of material to work with. I scribed the lines with a hacksaw blade using an old mitre box to steady the work and insure a 90 degree scribe.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

A lot of my buildings are set on concrete pads (poured in place to fit the building footprint) I use a very small piece of wood to leave a hole (about 1/8") through the concrete to the soil when I build and fill my forms. Then I build a sintra "plate" just bigger then the structure and drill holes to match those in the concrete. I affix the building to the sintra with silicone and press 18" brass rod (with 1/4" bent over on one end) through the hole in the plate, through the hole in the concrete, and down into the soil. This means that each building is held by at least two rods driven 16" into the dirt. The winds here in central Kansas regularly gust to 50mph and I haven't lost a building yet. If your soil is extremely rocky, this might not work for you.


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## JerryB (Jan 2, 2008)

I tried cement backer board several years ago. It absorbed water and soon came apart. We typically get something well over 40" of rain each winter, so the base is pretty wet for long periods.

I now use solid concrete stepping stones and glue an appropriate material to the top. For example, I recently put a 12" x 18" x 1.5" thick stepping stone down, then glued cut to fit plastic trim boards to the concrete. The trim boards are cut to fit inside the structure, but can also be left to come out of the structure where (for example) I want a dock or other raised surface.

I do use small wire pins through the wall of the structure into the PVC trim boards where I am concerned about a light weight structure being blown away.

Happy (Well Anchored) RRing,

Jerry


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

A different way to use a backer board. I glue most any piece of wood I have handy (eg. 1/2 x 3/4 inch by three or four inches long) to two walls inside the building. Then, placing the building in the desireable spot on the board, drill a small hole thru the wood and backer (did I mention the roof hasn't been glued on yet?). Then use a screw from beneath to hold the building to the board. The backer board seems to hold my buildings down well for our winds (a few storms each summer might have some gusts of 40-50-60 mph).

This method allows me to remove the building from the board to possibly make changes to the inside. For the most part, I only detail minimally, but I usually mount a garden-type solar panel w LED inside one of the windows for interior lighting at night. The solar panel is mostly "invisible" - just looks like a dark room. 

Another method of holding 'em down: tent stakes. I have a ranger station (*Florist Ranger*, if you must know) located in amongst a number of fairly tall Peonies. It doesn't take much of a wind to topple it. So I bought some stakes that have a sturdy plastic hook attached. The hooks are bright green, but after a few months outdoors they're more of a dirty brown. Nobody's looking at the base anyway.

JackM


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the Malibu lights with 4 watt bulbs and just place small buildings over them.
Been in place for 10 years now.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Right. It's a trade off between wiring -which I dislike - and replacing bateries - which I don't mind. I figure a cost of about $1 per year per building. And I get a chance to upgrade and/or rearrange them easily.

Different strokes!

JackM


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## neals645 (Apr 7, 2008)

*Seal It*

If you do use backer board be sure to seal the edges with a good exterior primer. It won't stop it from absorbing water but it will slow it down.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Hmmmm. I'm using regular house paint. Would primer be better? 

JackM


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had POLA buildings for 30 plus years. Some have bases and some sit directly on the ground. I have had only two structures tip over from wind (squirrels). A coaling tower and a water tower. Both are tall with a relatively small base. Houses, barns, engine sheds, and stations have stayed upright.

They have been out during chinooks in Lakewood, Colorado and hurricanes in Virginia. 

Over the years, UV has done more damage.

Chuck


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

most of the box stores sell tile by the piece and silicone down works pretty good, I have since switched to PVC board as it is easier to work with and although not as heavy works pretty good. The pictured station is screwed to a piece of it, textured on 1 side and smooth on the other, Bill


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