# Question about bar width for those who use flat bar for track.



## Trapped (Apr 5, 2018)

Is it possible to run on track skinnier than 1/8 in.?
Someone on FB recommended using angle bar mounted on a 2x4 for straights, however all of the local big box hardware stores only stock 1/2 in. angle bar that's just 1/21 in. thick. Is that too thin to run on? 

I'm completely new at this, and trying to be economical about everything, and 12 bucks for 8 feet of track seems worth it if it works. I'm going for function over form.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Trapped:

Welcome to the forums.

I cannot speak to the rail question as I have no experience in this area.

I would be concerned about using 2x4s as the rail base. Regardless of the type of lumber used (redwood, pine, pressure-treated,etc.) it seems to me that it will quickly twist or bow when exposed to the elements. It is difficult enough to maintain proper transitions and gauge when using traditional track on the various types of roadbed such as concrete, ballast, PVC pipe and the like. I cannot imagine that dimensional lumber is up to the task most anywhere in the US resulting in smooth and dependable running.

While my layout is indoors I do have a fair amount of experience with wood products and their behaviors when "battling" to survive in the great outdoors.

I would recommend that you focus on building the most stable foundation for your railroad you can afford as that will lead to hours of trouble-free operation and minimize the frustration that uneven track work most often results in. I'm all for cuttings costs but the track is not where I'd look.

If this method is something that you are going to pursue I would strongly suggest building a small prototype section and see how it holds up in your particular environment before fully committing.

Many people save considerably by purchasing used track via auctions, ebay, clubs, private sales and such. You might look at that approach as a method of reducing your costs.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with ****. As for buying steel I would suggest going to a metal vendor. They are generally much less expensive than the big box stores.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

In general I agree with **** Habilis, except it you use PT material that is designated 'For Ground Contact' it will last fairly well.....for an increased cost.

As for rail, I have see both aluminum and steel flat bar on edge in grooves in the ties used and work well. Your description above is a bit confusing, but I am assuming you mean something on the order of 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 angle. The flat bar will be much easier to bend into your curves that the angle. The flat bar 'can' be worked into switches as well.

As for purchasing from a local metal supplier, their prices are usually much cheaper than the big box stores, but they also have minimum quantity order rules that usually bring the purchase price above the average LSers budget, not to mention most folks don't have the ability to handle 12 to 20 long pieces the metal suppliers usually deal in.

For what it is worth I would recommend hand laid aluminum track. Much cheaper than store bought brass/


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a forum thread on a very large layout in Portland that uses bar stock exclusively and hand builds everything. Lots of great photos should give you lots of ideas.

Topic: Big changes at Staver Locomotive for Spring Steamup
http://www.largescalecentral.com/fo...anges-at-staver-locomotive-for-spring-steamup


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I agree with Armorsmith regarding the 'For Ground Contact' treated wood lasting a fairly long time. However my experience is that (assuming you can find reasonably straight pieces to begin with) they still have a tendency to bow and twist after a bit of time.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

In my car barn I used even cheaper Z flashing for straight rails. Found it in the stucco department. One in five brads will shoot through it too.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

if it is just a temporary measure to save, you might think about cheap curtainrails.
(but that will not last as long as steel in the garden)


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