# Frick Engine



## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

I bet you thought this was some kind of euphemism for something else. Well, it really is a FRICK engine.

More specifically, it’s a 1:20.3-scale model of a portable steam engine manufactured by the Frick Company of Waynesville, Pennsylvania, sometime around the turn of the last century. The model is the latest offering by Bob Hartford, of Hartford Products. I acquired it at ECLSTS last spring and built it as a flatcar load (pix of that to follow later.)


In a departure from his regular production practices, Bob makes extensive use of urethane parts because of the size of the boiler casting and complexity of other parts. Also to be found in the kit, are the usual high-quality white metal and basswood parts that you would expect in a Hartford kit. A word of caution: the urethane parts are extremely delicate and therefore fragile. Handle them with care.[/i] This model was fun for me to build and bash (as is my nature), but it is definitely not[/i] a kit for beginners.










The Frick Company of Waynesboro, Pennsylvania was founded by George Frick in 1853. It initially manufactured steam engines, and later diversified into harvesting and sawmill machinery as well. They built both stationary and portable steam engines – the portable versions were known as “The Eclipse.” Their single-cylinder engines ranged from two to twenty horsepower, depending on bore and stroke. The illustration above is from period Frick advertising catalogs. The prototype for the Hartford model Eclipse had a 7½-inch bore diameter and a 9-inch stroke, which produced about eight horsepower.











Here’s the model with smokestack extended and ready to have a flywheel connected to a piece of leather belt-driven machinery. (Humphrey has volunteered to stand in to give you a sense of size and proportion.)
















Now it’s got the smokestack folded down and ready for transport. As usual, I wasn’t content to build the kit exactly as it came out of the box. However, while following no particular prototype, I did adhere to typical practices in bashing it a bit.














For instance, I added a rudimentary brake system, “powered” by a 25-pound weight. Most Fricks had no brakes at all and were probably held in place with chocks during operation. Iron tires were added to the kit wheels using strip styrene.














Using commercial brass castings and brass rod, I built an injector system on the right side, which includes a whistle and a hose (made from solder) to tap any convenient water source. I also incorporated a control valve into the main steam line from the steam dome to the governor and put a simple spark arrestor on the top of the stack.
















The smoke stack parts in the kit were solid castings. But I wanted to be able to see the through it when it was folded horizontal, so I fabricated a completely new stack - from the smoke box up - of hollow styrene tube, retaining only the upper and lower flanges from the original castings.














Usually, any moving parts on a model I glue down - my theory is anything movable, is breakable. However, I couldn’t help myself with this smoke stack. It just looks so cool when fully extended but, obviously, needs to be folded down for transport on a flatcar. Clearly, I had to find a way to build it so it could be shown both extended and[/i] stowed.

















Bob Hartford says the stack can be made to pivot on the cast hinges, but recommends not to because they are so fragile. I couldn’t agree more, so I removed them completely and scratch-built a set of offset hinges from brass that are much more robust, albeit oversized and not in scale. I guess that’s just the price I have to pay for functionality and[/i] security.

















Bob’s included instructions in the kit are quite detailed and complete, but do not provide any drawings or illustrations. The parts list gives only the number required, and no description or way to identify them. There are black ‘n’ white photographs of the completed model and some more of the prototype, but that’s about it. Therefore, I thought it might be useful, to anyone else attempting to build one of these models, to post some depictions of what goes where.

















I built the single-cylinder engine pretty much “stock”, but I did add a connecting rod from the rocker arm (run by an eccentric on the right flywheel axle) to the steam chest on the cylinder. You can see it here just to the right of the governor pulley rope (which I also added), next to the crosshead.


Bob says that the model can be built to “run” if you carefully[/i] scoop out enough room in the bottom of the urethane engine bed casting for the crankshaft and flywheel counterweights to rotate freely. But, even if that is done, there’s no way the governor and pulley can be made to spin. Plus, I refer you to my “breakable parts” theory, as stated above. My model engine’s flywheels are fixed in place.

















Here’s a good close up shot of the governor and pulley system. You can also see how the main steam line (with the added the control valve) is connected to the dome.

















Here's an eight-horsepower Frick that has seen better days. As you can see, it has the much more common iron wheels instead of wooden ones (which Bob said are much easier to cast.) If you are handier with a soldering iron than I am, it might be fun to build your model with this type of wheel made from brass strip and rods. If you do, good luck! BTW, another nice detail you could add is the water-level sight glass on the back head.






If you’d like to see one of these portable engines in operation, here’s a YouTube video showing one just like mine, albeit with a short smokestack and iron wheels, running some sawmill equipment. 

As I mentioned above, I built this model to be an open-air load on a narrow-gauge D&RGW (the Dulles & Reston Garden Weeds, [/i]that is) flatcar. When I get that done, I’ll post some more pix.


I’m really happy with the way this model turned out. It was quite a challenge to build, but the results are well worth the effort. I hope you agree.


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Lovely work Jack! I especially like the weathering. 

Alec


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

very sweet work Jack.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

fantastic work, wonderful weathering job. Remarkable


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## trainbuffjr (Jan 11, 2008)

Incredible work as usual Jack! Being a traction engine engineer i was excited to hear of this kit, so it is very nice to see one built. Very nice indeed!


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Jack,

Very nice, love your work. If you come up through Pa in the near future, you might want to stop at Knobles ammusemt park, Elysburge Pa. They have two of the Frick enginens on display. Im not certain but I think one was steaming the last time we where there. Next time I go I will take some picks.

Chuck


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow. Talk about some great craftmanship! That sure turned out nice, Jack. I hope you'll bring it to York next spring so we can all see it in person. 

It would sure look great next to one of those portable saw mills! Any plans for something like that, or will it just be a flat car load?


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Jack - That's just "frickin" fabulous! 


I really like your Pump House & Windmill - http://4largescale.com/Thompson/46.htm, well actually everything on your site. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration!


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## dangell (Jul 15, 2012)

Wow, now I want to build one of those. I can add it to my must build list with the other 19845 things I fully intend to build. Super cool build of a super cool model. Love the rust! 

Dale


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## Don Howard (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree! 

Thanks for taking the time to make all the detailed photos and explanation.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Beautiful! The stack hinge may be oversized but it certainly doesn't look it.


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, guys, for all the nice comments.

Dale - I wanted it to look like a hard working, but relatively well-cared for, piece of equipment. On any machine primarily made of iron used around so much water and steam, there is going be some inevitable rust, I just didn't want to overdo it.

Ray - I'm glad you said what you said about the stack hinges. I agonized over making them so over sized, but I think the model still captures the "spirit of the thing" if not the reality of it. Bottom line: better safe than sorry. 

Bruce - I will definitely mount it securely on a flatcar so I won't have to handle it directly - there are just too many fragile parts. I will have it in my consist the next time we set up Clem's layout, either in Timmonium, Maryland, or up in York.

See you all then...


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, wood wheel farm portables often used diagonal "braces" between the wheels during operation. There were two on each side, they clamped on the rims by bolts that ran between the spokes. 









I made a set for my Russell portable out of coffee stirrers and finishing nails.


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## Big65Dude (Jan 2, 2008)

Very interesting, Mik. I've never seen anything like that before. Makes pretty good sense, though....

Thanks for sharing.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, thanks for bringing the kit to my attention as well... even though it's about twice what I'm willing to pay. 

Here are the addys for photos of Henry Ford's 1881 Westinghouse sporting a set, hopefully one will work. 
http://remarkablevehicles.com/image...00px-1881-westinghouse-steam-engine-06761.JPG 
http://www.smokstak.com/gallery/files/2/6/1/9/henrysportable.JPG 
http://fineartamerica.com/featured/westinghouse-engine-dearborn-mi-nicholas-grunas.html


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

You sure do nice work Jack. I'm always amazed at the level of "additional" detail you go to and your weathering is outstanding as usual. I too am looking forward to seeing you and your latest at York.

Doc


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## PVRR_Adam (Nov 17, 2010)

This is one heck of a build! Being pretty local to Waynesboro, I've always had a thing for Frick engines, and you nailed this one!


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