# Potential Ruby modification...



## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

View image for larger version... Drawings are not made yet, I'm doing this in my after-hours time at work while packing to move to a new apartment. For a scale reference, the gland is for a 1/16" rod and the lower mounting screws are M2 to match the Ruby cylinders. The lid screws are 1-64.


Trot, the conceptualizing, fox...


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

So Trot what are we trying to do, inquiring minds need to know!


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Andre, 

The idea is to give people the option of installing full Stephenson's gear with slide-valves. Basically, I'm fed up with the worn-out piston-valves on my Ruby and I want an excuse to butcher the loco a bit.  

Also, I like turning useless pieces of metal into smaller useless pieces of metal... 

Trot, the "just sayin", fox...


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks like its going to give the cylinder a more prototypical look too, if I'm not mistaken.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Ive though about doing the same too but with leaving the existing simple eccentric and making it a foward running only. Ive never used reverse on mine anyway. Well my Ruby at least.


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Yes, more prototypical if I'm thinking right. 

I will likely go with forward only at first just to get the loco running again and to tune the valves... mostly to test out the concept! 

Trot, the planning, fox...


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

If you can devise a spring to hold down the valve you can still use the piston reverser....Thinking something like a flat spring that the valve rides on and is held in by the cover. Not sure if it would handle 40psi though.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Can't wait to see how this turns out.


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Jason, 

I've done that sort of thing before with a PVC engine I built. It would handle up to 40 but started leaking after that. It had a small ball-bearing pushing against the valve to keep the gas in, an open chest for construction simplicity and ran on air. The idea here is to get rid of the poor running in whichever direction the locomotive isn't best tuned for. With 4 eccentrics you can tune each direction of travel independently. You know, like the real ones did.  

rkapuaala, 

Don't hold your breath... I'm currently packing to move to a different apartment and working plenty of overtime to cover the expenses of moving while my wife lives in a different state (Singing Opera and other gigs.) This project is going to move slowly and if it ends up like most of the stuff I do, it'll never get far enough to be built! I did find a used metal market near me though so tomorrow I'm going to take a few minutes to go see if htye have some brass for this project. Nothing like having the material in-hand to make you want to get something done.  

Trot, the prototypical, fox...


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Guys,
You've got me hooked on this one. I'd love to be able to run the ruby and adjust the cut off as needed. Trot, when I read your initial post my face went from a grin to a grimace once I read the bit about you moving. Like you, I have a lot of work to get done before I start a project like this. I'm definitely all ears whoever gets to it first.


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Randy, 

I'm not so proud as to not share. As I complete drawings I will post them here for discussion so anyone that wants to cut metal along with me or make suggestions will be welcome to. I develop equipment for a living and peer review is a huge part of the deal.  

Trot, the share-alike, fox...


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

I think this is a great idea. Stephenson gear between the frames is about as real as it gets. keep going on this idea Trot, it's a winner.

vr Bob


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

First drawing set is complete. Let me know what you think. :] 

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/trotfox/pix/RubySuzy/accu_ruby_chest.pdf 

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/trotfox/pix/RubySuzy/accu_ruby_chest-cap.pdf

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/trotfox/pix/RubySuzy/accu_ruby_gland_clamp.pdf

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/trotfox/pix/RubySuzy/accu_ruby_slide_valve.pdf

The gland is designed around McMaster-Carr o-ring part number 9464K181:


http://www.mcmaster.com/#9464k181/=baix6x

Trot, the grey, fox...


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Trot, 

I like what you're doing. I've thought about modifying the stock Ruby valve housings to use cylindrical "D" valves similar to the ones used on the G1MRA Dee locomotive. However I never got farther along than a few sketches. 

I remember that a while back you were investigating the possibility to convert a Ruby to a 1:32 0-4-0 switcher. I am sure that you know that a gentleman in Australia did just that to create a gauge-1 (10mm scale) model of a British B4 locomotive. I have read of another gentleman who modified Ruby running gear to have a longer wheelbase and to use Walschaerts valve gear in order to create a model of a different British prototype, also in gauge-1. Perhaps your design parameters for D-valves and the associated valve gear could be adapted for inside-valve operation as used in British prototypes. 

Do you plan to make full Stephenson valve gear or "simplified"? 

Steve


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Trot, 
Looks like a great idea and project. 
I would however suggest that the 'chest' be made in two parts rather than the one that you seem to be planning, and use studs to hold it in place. 
As one part, I would think that you would never be able to get the valve surface perfectly smooth and flat (i.e. with paper as one would normally do). 
Maybe you have another way of doing that? 
If I have read your drawing incorrectly, then I apologise. 
If you are not careful, you will have to put it out as a 'kit' for all the other Ruby owners that are reading this. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Steve, 

I was not aware of those bashes. I gave up on the 1:32 conversion once I started seeing what all would be needed to re-proportion to my liking. Since then I have also decided to go completely 1:20 scale so that whole idea went out the window. Converting to inside valves would mean a complete rebuild of the front end due to the way the cylinders mount. Not impossible but not something I want to get in to. 

The concept is to install full Stephenson's. There should be room to do it properly without much difficulty. I think finding a spot to mount the link lifting rods will be the worst part. 

David, 

I wrestled with those questions (studs and two-piece chest) for a while. I fear that the nuts for the studs would be difficult to hide and would look like a mess. Also, I doubt the holding ability of those tiny threads (1-72) if they have to seal two joints. I expect I'll know whether this idea was a good one after I've made the first one but I am somewhat concerned over the lack of traditional lapping capability. As I think it over I could go with 6 screws instead of 4 if I just give up some width in the chamber. We'll just have to see what happens. 

As for the "kit" possibility... If I am able to get these parts to work on mine and people want it done I'll consider taking orders and having a local shop turn out the parts. These things should be dead simple for a CNC shop to pump out a large handful.  I have one-off parts and small sets of parts made by the shops all the time at work so this doesn't bother me too much. Finding the money to get 'er done would be the only concern as it sure couldn't come from my bank. 

Trot, the realistic, fox...


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is my old Ruby, with an original Vance Bass cab kit... 













Since I removed the tanks, I probably should be running a tender. Oh well!


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

Tom, 

I have the same cab but have not completed it due to Servo interference. My J-bar servo is bolted to the back of the J-bar bracket and bumps in to the rear wall.  

You need to throw a firebox under that cab to fill up the space!  

Trot, the picky, fox...


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