# First locomotive for beginner



## tazzytazzy (Dec 27, 2007)

Hey everyone. I'm just getting started (yes, another 'one of those'). I'm in Sacramento and I'm going to be "breaking ground" on the railroad this weekend. I've been working on the planning phase for a few years (saving money, moving dirt, etc). Playing with various layout ideas on paper, running around the yard "pretending" (or as an adult 'visualizing') some ideas for the train lines. Last week I splurged and ordered 200 feet worth of H&R trains flex stainless steel and some Aristo wide radius turns (not #6).

I won't complete my planned layout with the amount of track I purchased, but it'll give me a great start. I'm planning on making a rather large U shaped layout around the sides/back of the house. The sides of the house are narrow and can only allow up to 7.5 feet wide for turning around (one turn around will be in the front yard). I'll redraw the plans shortly and get them posted online for a better representation. I'm basically making one large circle (boring), with a few sidings (passing) and some spurs for local freight / passengers, train stations, etc. I also plan to put in some track to changing train directions, etc. I'd get bored without being able to mix it up.

And to make things more dynamic, along the sides of house (and part of the front yard on one side), i want the longer trains to be able to stop while the smaller locals to run around. Then, i could let a smaller local go through (or, mix the local in with the long distance, however you look at it).

I'm not into prototypical modeling. I just want to run a few trains around the yard/garden. I want to have a couple of longer trains, and a few passenger/random/fantasy spurs/stations/stops. I've planned two larger 25+ feet passing sidings on each side of the house (the switches will be there, but with no track until the next order of track)...So I can stop the larger trains and let some smaller passengers/local freight/whatever go by to mix things up. I've picked up some rolling stock on ebay/sales over the last couple of years, and even managed to snag an Eggliner for super cheap.


So. My questions:

I'm looking for a decent loco to pull some cargo. I'm looking at the USAT refer cars / wood cargo cars, and perhaps a second train later down the road to run some intermodal cars. I really like intermodal for some reason, and i'm eyeing a 5 unit set from USAT. Now, for my very first loco... I like the USAT GP38-2 BNSF followed by SD40. If the GP38 won't pull enough, I could start with fewer rolling stock and add a second GP38 and more rolling stock next year. Any thoughts for my first loco purchase? I could even do SD70 if that will fit on the 7.5 turn around. I know the intermodal will cut in on the curves, and that the track needs to be super level as they tend to derail.


Train control (and this is where I've done a ton of research, reading, etc). I work in the technology/silicon manufacturing industry as a software engineer. My job is all about computers I can handle the DCC just fine and can understand it. So... I've settled on Digitrax command station/booster. However, i'll be using a meanwell SP-320-27 power supply using an NCE PB110 booster to get to 10 amps. The DCS100 will still be wired to track with a switch to convert a section of track to programming track. I picked up a nearly new DCS100 on ebay for 90 bucks (a mislabeled item on ebay in an estate sale, but the pics clearly showed it as a DCS100). I tested it with the power supply and a DT402D (plugged in, no UR92 yet) using the eggliner for a minute in zero stretching mode. It works great.

I'm also wiring in a BDL168 for 16 zones to start with (i'm using RS2's to cut down on bus wiring). In a year or two, I plan to use RR&CO for automated turnout and train control to help keep things more dynamic and to be able run more trains at the same time. For now, i'll use JMRI or some other free solution. I need to let my credit card cool off before I can afford RR&CO.

*I look forward to hearing ideas on Locomotive ideas.* I want to stick with diesel for now, and later will get into steam with a nice passenger setup.

Thanks everyone. 

-Mitch


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think your first choices are good. 

The GP38 has 2 axle trucks, no problem. The USAT design for the SD series has a "floppy" first axle that accommodates tight turns and uneven track much better than the Aristo motor blocks. There are tips on my site about some tricks on lubricating the "slide plate" for the floppy axle (many people who don't like this design have never lubricated this area and have problems). 

USAT locos can have problems with "cracked axles" which is easy to fix, and I actually recommend removing the axles and putting a small piece of brass tubing on the plastic axle "casting" to make sure it never happens to you, cheap, easy insurance. Again on my web site under USAT motive power. 

Go for it! 


Greg


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## tazzytazzy (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks Greg. I'll look into the axle item you raised when I install a DCC decoder.. 

Soo.. What basic DCC decoder with sound and spending as much on the decoder as the loco itself? I hope there is something that will power this with sound. I'd be happy with basic sound for now - engine sound and a horn. I can circle back around after I get more track laid and some rolling stock if I don't like a basic sound decoder. 

The digitrax soundbug is only rated for 20 volts, i'm planning on 22v at the track. 

Thanks.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

A GP 38 will pull just fine for your first loco. I stalled out my GP9 (same motor block) with 33 cars on a 4% grade in the rain (aluminum rail). You should have plenty of power with the GP38. 
A locomotive fleet can be slowly acquired, second hand units, repaints (if your willing). That's how I've acquired most of my locomotives.  
I'll ditto what Greg says about the cracked axles. If for some reason you don't want to fix the cracked axle yourself, NWSL sells a replacement Delron gear for the USA loco's. I'd check your locomotive sooner than later as the axles have been known to come from the factory cracked. 

Craig


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

tazzy.... you could use an inexpensive decoder like a NCE D408 (although they will tell you that you need the D808) and add a cheap sound card, but you are around $150 and at $200 you have have fantastic sound, many features in the decoder and so many features you would go bonkers. 

Drop the extra $50 in each loco, you will thank me. 

Greg


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Mitch, 
You will be very happy with the GP38s! (My personal favorite pick). One or two of them will likely be more than adequate. If your train is too long for your 7.5ft diameter curves one loco will likely pull hard enough to derail the cars. However, two engines might make the operation smoother, with less slowing in the curves. 

For 6 axle power, I say the Aristo SD45 is probably the best.... but it won't be happy on a 7.5ft diameter curve.

For freight cars, I think you will appreciate keeping with more modern equipment like the Aristo 100t hoppers and USA medium-sized tankers. These will better match your modern locomotives and intermodal cars while still being short enough to work properly. Sadly, most of the reefers made in 1:29 were of prototypes which have long ago met the scrapper's torch...and although a late 1960's GP38 could have pulled some of them, it was long before the BNSF merger.


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## Vinny D (Jan 25, 2013)

I like all of the USAT diesels, any of them would be a great choice!


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## tazzytazzy (Dec 27, 2007)

Craig, thanks for the input on the pulling capacity. I would love to get long enough to have a lco in the middle of a train.  

Greg, You have summarized what I have been finding. So, what decoder would you get. I would very appreciate an exact suggestion (model number/brand) of a DCC decoder. 

S-4: Thanks for your comments about the gp38 and suggestions for rolling stock. I wouldn't know what rolling stock wouldn't match what locomotives based on years. I'm just into watching some cool cars running around. Now. If you want to talk about what seat to put on an R1200RT, I can help.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm very partial to combination decoders, ones that have good sound, and a good american sound library, sounds vary according to the actual load on the loco, and high current capability. 

To me in your case that comes down to the new QSI, can handle up to 10 amps, new dual speaker/stereo output and many great features. I liked them so much wound up being a beta tester.


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## tazzytazzy (Dec 27, 2007)

I did it. Ordered the USAT GP-38-2 loco and the qsi titan 10 amp for USAT. I also ordered the traintek adapter board w led kit.. This will be my first real loco, so I went the easy route. I received the qsi, but not the loco.. 

Just realized, I need a couple of 8 ohm speakers. Any suggestions on two speakers that will fit this? As much as my credit card is on fire from the loco, Im fine spending more than $2 on a cheap paper speaker.  

I've read a few sites about speakers and enclosures, but I would appreciate a pointer to a specific speaker.. Thanks everyone.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, I'd try a oval speaker underneath the fans (same size as Aristo oval), remove the smoke unit, and work a small high bass speaker feeding into the cab (like the small phoenix), and open the cab windows. 

Then the QSI can be set to have the prime mover come out of the speaker under the fans and you can have the horn and bell come out of the cab, so they appear to come from the front of the loco. 

I just did the same thing to an Aristo RS3, see my site on this. Very happy with the results. 

Greg


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## Budd1 (Apr 9, 2009)

TazzyTazzy
not to hijack your thread, but welcome to the site and I see your in the Sacramento area, great club here (Sacramento Valley Garden Railroad Socitey) having a meeting at my house on may 11, maybe you could come and see what the club is about. I am in the Colfax area.
Bud


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Tazzy, 

Welcome to MLS and Garden Scale trains.

What couplers are you going to use on your trains (hook & loop, USA Trains knuckles, Kadee, others)?

I discovered it would have been best if I decided early on, but finally ended up using Kadee couplers.

Anyway, you mentioned choosing USA Trains products. 
I have articles that Greg E. hosts for me on his Web site in addition to his items. Included are some about USAT locos and cars - mostly with respect to mounting Kadee center set type couplers - but they also describe many other things, too.

The articles are called "*Vignettes*", in alphabetical order, and include what you have or plan to get (GP38, SD70, Intermodal car).

BTW, the SD 70 has a lot of front pilot overhang on curves, so it is the least likely to work on tight curves depending more or less on couplers you choose.

-Ted


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Welcome to MLS and to Large scale. I recently all but gave up HO scale to concentrate on Large scale outdoors. I played around with track powered LGB for awhile but grew tired of track cleaning and the cost of equiping several engines with battery RC set up. I had mess with live steam in the past and went back to it with a Regner Willi found second hand online, then sold all my HO brass and the Regner engine and bought a Roundhouse Lady Anne kit. My layout by space requirements is LGB R1 curves so small engines are the rule. Good luck in your endevor and we cant wait to see some pictures. Mike and Michele T


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