# best base material?



## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I tried searching for this but did not have much luck. What is the best material to use for a building base?

I've used trex, and insulation foam, and cedar, and ptp lumber. None of them are perfect. I saw Marty's post about the hardi-plank. My wife doesn't like to use PTP in the garden


We have a largish Colorado model structures building we want to place, and I'm thinking of using insulation foam covered with vinyl concrete. The problem is the only foam insulation I can find here is about two inches thick. I was thinking cover it with concrete patcher, then bury it an inch down. 



Suggestions on building bases welcome


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## Truthman (Dec 13, 2008)

Pressure treated is not a problem in the garden.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Bubba uses flat steping stones (concrete 12" X12") you can score and cut them down also. 
cheap and easy. 
silicone it so the wind does not move it.


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I used some 3/8" thick PVC sheet from TAP plastics for my station. It's been outside for 2 years and looks as good as the day I put it in. Talk with Russell at TAP if interested, he will fix you up.


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## Bruce Chandler (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike,


I started my making my bases from Quikrete Vinyl Patching Cement. 











I made a form from pink Styrofoam, placed a piece of hardware cloth in to act as rebar, and poured the Quikrete over it. After it had set up, I took it out of the mold and carved expansion joints and curb lines into the green concrete. The only problem I've had with it is that it tends to attract some mold, so it's got some green showing. I guess I could clean it. 


Lately, I've been using some foamed PVC that I got from TAPPlastics. 










This can be easily cut with a saw, and it's easy to carve in the curbs and sidewalk. I paint it gray, add some weathering powders and spray some clear Krylon on top.


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

I haven't had Marty's issues with my hardibacker bases but I don't tend to move my buildings around much. The ones I do get paint touch ups as needed. 
I use plexiglass for a client's buildings recently but it can be pricey ($60 for a 2'x4'x1/4" sheet) but I got 3 bases out it by cutting out the middle of the 3 building block- 



















covered with cedar glued down with silicone - 










-Brian


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Wonderboard. It's virtually all cement. 

I not only use it for bases, I make buildings from the stuff 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips7/wonderboard_tips.html


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Brain 
I think has a rail problem behind the building in the 2nd photo. 
BTY
We maybe talking different companies on the board. I only moved the building because I noticed the board was bad. 
other stuff has I use is durrock primed and painted. 
I don't think i primed the bad board and I like to hid my bases.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Thank you all. I can never find wonderboard at my local home despot. 

I cut a quick base out of insulation foam and troweled some concrete patcher on. Bruce I really like both the idea of casting it and the foamed PVC. Casting vinyl patcher is really easy


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

have you looked in the tile section at HD?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By lownote on 06/02/2009 6:41 PM
Thank you all. I can never find wonderboard at my local home despot. 

I cut a quick base out of insulation foam and troweled some concrete patcher on. Bruce I really like both the idea of casting it and the foamed PVC. Casting vinyl patcher is really easy






Just today I came up with a new technique for applying this type material. I've always had a problem smearing it on after mixing it.

So today I wanted to make a concrete walkway/stairway and the idea hit me. I made it out of wood and primed it. I then sprayed it with spray adhesive. I took a strainer and added a hand full of mortar mix and shook it over the wood dusting the structure. I let it dry a bit, shook off the excess, and did a second layer. Then I just misted it with a spray bottle. A perfect "concrete casting" with no mess, no muss, and no fuss. I also tried this with hydraulic cement with similar results.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't remember the brand, but what George said.. I bought the waterproof stuff... has been siting outside in the elements a couple of years, no problem... 

Regards, Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I've been using HardiBacker (similar to Wonderboard) as a base. It's designed for constant contact with moisture, and the freezing/thawing seems not to affet it too much. I have noticed the corners wanting to delaminate here and there where I've had the buildings out and brought them back in. I don't know that I'd use it if the building is going to be routinely transported, because if the entire base delaminates as a result of freezing/thawing, then you might have strength issues. Since I just set it and forget it, it's not a concern. If a building comes in at this point, it'll be because a train went through it or some catastrophic event where the base is the least of my worries.  

Later, 

K


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Foam board (painted with exterior latex) works well for raised concrete loading docks. Its holding up better than the roof - 










A recycled concrete pad lasts a long, long time - 










-Brian


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

The concrete covered foam buildings at Jim Strong's Woodland railway are what got me thinking about foam and patcher. Kevin, what does your Dad use as a base?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Usually, 1/2" blue foam. 

Later, 

K


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Depending on the size of the building I use the gray cement flat steps..I guess they would be called sold at Menards and such.

You can get them anywhere from 6x12, 12x12, or 16x16..in various colors...drill a hole in the middle of the stone, place a molly in the hole, place an eye screw inside the molly, not an hook , but one of those screws that have an eye.
Screw a SMALL screw on the underneath of the roof of the buyilding, use one of those SMALL bunge cords, tying knotts in it to make it to size with enough force to hold the building down..WHALA!

You have a sturdy building with sturdy foundation, that the wind cannot knock over, just maybe move it a little.

THEN if you use malibu lights, you can tip the building to replace the bulb when it goes out..I like the bulbs verses the solor lighting.

Every year you may have to relevel the concrete block..but that is not a problem....
What I hate is if you use the block the same size of the building and do not have sufficient block around the building and it is on dirt OR crusher fines when it rains the building gets dirty needing to be washed off occasionally..and dirt stains Pola or Piko kits after a few years..BUT they last longer then the Aristo cheap paint jobs!









IMHO

Bubba


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

I make a frame out of 1x2" and pour a concrete pad.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

HardiBacker and WonderBoard are not the same stuff at all. 

HardiBacker is not rated for continuos contact with moisture, WonderBoard is. HardiBacker needs to be cut with some kind of saw, it won't scribe and break well. Wonderboard is too abrasive to cut with most saws, it will ruin blades in a hurry. It needs to be scribed and broken which leaves a rough edge. For tile backing work, the broken edge is fine, but for modeling work, it needs to be sealed with a patching cement or it will crumble. Complex shapes are probably easier to form in HardiBacker but I've done pretty well in WonderBoard. 

Neither are very sag resistant, WonderBoard needs to be supported every couple of feet when used in a horizontal position. I don't know how often HardiBacker needs support, but a sheet standing against a wall takes a set pretty quickly. WonderBoard sags in the same condition but doesn't take a set. I've had problems with mold growing on a sheet of HardiBacker left outdoors, no problems with a sheet of WonderBoard right next to it.


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## Ross (Jul 19, 2009)

Try the local tile shop. Use a 12 x 12 inch or larger.


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

I started using concrete backer board last year. You can purchase it at Lowe's or Home Depot. It comes in 3' X 5' X 3/8" sheets and runs about $7.50 a sheet. It is all concrete and holds up better than Hardiboard laying on the ground.


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