# how to fix crazing from dull coat



## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

Just finished applying the paint (Polly-S acrylic), decals (adhesive vinyl) and weathering (Polly-S acrylic) of my kitbashed Bachman baggage car. When I applied dull coat to finish the job, the dull coat left a white crazing in various places. Any suggestions on how to fix this?


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## Henson (Jan 2, 2008)

Heavy weathering is what I did on a locomotive. Turned out looking nice.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I would guess the hazing is moisture. Maybe place it near a dehumidifier?

I had a terrible experience where I fnished a model in Pullman green, then sprayed it in krylon matte and the green crzed and wrinkled. I had to clear it all off with a toothbrush and more krylon paint. Took hours, a huge mess


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Jim, high humidity level is generally the cause for the "blushing" or crazing. If you can gently spray the surface with a gloss or semi gloss coat over the crazed dull coat, it may "melt" the solids and save the job. 

I tend to stay away from dull coate and stick with the Krylon products although even Krylon Matte will blush in more humid conditions. Our humidity is generally in the teens.....


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## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

It didn't happen all over, so I think I'll repaint the affected areas and touch up with weathering. It does beg the questions for future projects: how do I permanently set decals (any type) to the car body if I don't use a dull coat?


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Jim - Your vinyl transfers do not _require _a clear coat to seal them, but we do recommend that as an option. Very few of my personal vinyl applications have been sealed, and they are all holding up just fine after 4-5 years. Like others, I have had horrible results using Testor's Dullcoat - yellowing was my problem. Krylon or whatever I can find at the craft store is cheaper and works better.


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## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

The vinyl transfers are looking good and held up well after being attacked by the dull coat. I used Woodland Scenics dry transfers for the other lettering. That's what I'm concerned about going into the future. I'll use all vinyl tranfers for the passenger car I'm working on for looks and durability, but was planning on using dry transfers for less important rolling stock. This was the first time I used "Floquil flat finish". I've always used Testors dull coat and never had a problem. What may have contributed to this crazing problem is that I think I may not have waited long enough between applying a weathering wash (with a couple drops of Isopropyl rubbing alcohol to make it flow better) and the dull coat. The wash was "dry", but was it "really dry"? Did the rubbing alcohol contribute to the problem? It was a wet day yesterday here in the "Crossroads of America."


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I use Dull-Cote as my main way of weathering to show a dirty road weary loco.......whet causes the crazing as you call it is the effect I look for when I use it with "The Grunge" method.

This method is spraying the entire item that you want to weather with Dul-Cote..let dry...then use 70-90% Isopropal alcohol and either brushing it, brushing cause streaks in the finished outcome...OR pouring all over the item you are trying to weather, this way gives a more uniform coverage without brush marks.

What the effect that the alcohol leaves on the item...part if you will, is that crazing effect the whitish look, that looks like those heavily used engines you see in the books that are not "just painted" engines.

SOOOO my explination for you getting the crazing..the whitish look is that maybe the decals have some sort of alcohol in the decals..and if so that will give you the effect I soo routinely want to eachive...with MY weathering process.

You will even get that white crazing when you use ANY alcohol in the same room that you have used the Dul-Cote..its the fumes..I know this first hand as I stumbled upon this by accident..I know it sounds wierd but I have had this happen..once by accident and a couple of times by testing...so make sure you do not use alcohol anywhere close to any area you are going to spray Dul-Cote. 

Sorry Del but I have used Dul-Cote for at least 10 years and no yellowing even on trains painted..sealed and left outside.

My 2 cents

Bubba


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

I also have had issues with the whitening problem using Krylon satin.. High Humidity, combined with spraying too heavy a coat, seem to agravate the problem. If the humidity is high, be sure to use several very light coats instead of one heavy coat. 

JimC.


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## Greg Stevens (Jan 3, 2008)

I have never had any luck with Dull Coat. It always crazes the paint and/or I get the white problem already mentioned. I have yet to try the other rattle can brands mentioned as I am afraid to mix different paint brands. I do believe that moisture in the air and too much paint are the problems however, plus mixing brands.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

As I have used dulcoat for many years. I finally had the crazing problem and believe the cause is high humidity and lots of rain. I have encounter both this year and this is the first time I've had the problem with dulcoat so for now will look at trying other methods that are available and listed here. Later RJD


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