# Track maintenance



## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

What's the best way to remove residue from (brass LGB) outdoor track. Residue builds up over time which hurts the electrical connection. For the past few years I've been "sanding" the track with fine emery paper every month plus or so. But someone said on another thread that this will pock mark the track and that I should use for instance that LGB track cleaning tool. But that tool doesn't seem to do much.

Spring is upon us and I need to clean up my track. What do I use?


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

I have lgb track that is outdoors and I use scott-brite pads to clean our track . I would not use sand paper it is to coarse the scott-brite pads are cheap and do a good job.


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

I have lgb track outdoors and use scotch-brite pads to clean our track. I would not use sand paper it is to coarse. The pads do not cost that much.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The green ScotchBrite pads on a pole are good. Not too abrasive. You don't want to use emery because it will leave fine scratches and the gunk will stick more and you are wearing away your rails slowly. White vinegar will remove oxidization and bring back a new brass look. 

Andrew


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been using green Scotchbrite pads on a dry wall sanding pole for over 30 years. No large scratches to collect more dirt.

Chuck


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Like Chuck I use greenie pads on a drywall sander. I occasionally spray isopropyl alcohol on the pad, especially in the upcoming pollen season here in MD, it can degrade my track power in a day when it is heavy. Another derivative approach that I heard from Greg is using a Swiffer pad setup. I buy the dry pads and apply alcohol to remove contamination without polishing. You may wish to try different approaches see what works for you.

Jerry


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are some pictures showing the pad.














































If the track hasn't been used for several months, I will use the LGB track cleaning engine. But for normal usage, the green pad is sufficient.

Chuck


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

My buddy Greg E suggests the Wet Swiffer for a simple cleaning.


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## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

Thanks to everyone! Very very useful. Special thanks to Chuck N for the pictures and measurements. I'm ready to go.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

One other track maintenance problem you likely will encounter, connectivity problems. My experience is that after a few years outdoors, the rail joiners that come with the track become loose and conductivity around the loop becomes a headache. This is because of thermal expansion and contraction, from day to night and winter to summer. Your track is always moving.

If you have AristoCraft track and used the small screws that came with it to screw your track together you should be OK. There are several other solutions out there. Some solder jumper wires across the rail joints, some use rail clamps, and others drill holes through the stock joiners and use screws of one kind or another.

I started off 25 years so so ago drilling holes a d using screws, #4 self tapping stainless screws and 0-80 stainless steel nuts and bolts.

I have been using rail clamps for the last 15 or so years. They are more expensive than the drill and screw system, but they are a lot easier to use, especially if you alter your track plan.

If you are interested in the screw systems I used, I can post some pictures.

Chuck


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## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

*GO BATTERY.* 

What's this track cleaning you speak of????? No comprehend track cleaning.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Actually, I've found that now after 18 years of getting watered 2-3 times daily, I have a new problem with my brass track.

It seems that in a couple areas the hard water deposits have deposited along the inside of the railhead actually to the point of causing the rail to go undergauge! Trains coming through that area are slowed or may even stop because the wheels are either getting "pinched," or are "climbing up so as to loose contact with the railhead and the minerals don't let electricity flow to the flanges. I don't know/think that stainless track would solve this problem either because it is not a matter of corrosion, it's a matter of mineral deposition.

I just spent an hour filing away water deposits in a problem area for the upcoming year. There needs to be a cleaner that does the railhead (easy) *and* inner portion of the rail head (not as easy).


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom

I'd rather buy rolling stock, than convert to all battery. Of course if you want to convert 30+ engines to battery and R -C. I'd love to have your donation. No matter what your power source, you still have to sweep the track. Walking the Scotchbrite pad around also clears debris.

Battery may be great for you and others. I have several battery locos and run them, mostly on layouts without track power. There are pluses and minuses for every power source. What works for some does not work for others.

Chuck


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used a mild drywall sanding screen on a past layout, but I think Chuck N's suggestion is much less aggressive towards the metal in the rail heads.

Since I became interested in live steamers, I don't have to clean track as much. I still have favored electric locomotives that I like to run from time to time. I have one of the AristoCraft track cleaning bobber cabooses. It usually does a good job, but, of course, the product is no longer in production. I have an extra cleaning pad for that vehicle, so I don't anticipate needing a replacement for a very long time. The nice feature about using the pole sander Chuck N demonstrates, is that it is easy on one's back.

I still like to run my trollies and interurbans on electricity, and guess what? - It's prototypical!

Have fun,
David Meashey


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave

YOU GOT THE BACK PART RIGHT!

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I degrease my track (organics like dead ants, bugs) with a Swiffer from the grocery store, and can stand up while doing it. 

I can wipe the outer main (about 500 foot of track) in 5 minutes and just pilot the swiffer on the rails. 

Disposable wet wipes on the head, no pressure or effort other than walking.

Yeah, I have SS track... it was worth the cost.

Greg

p.s. track gets watered every day, and our water is harder than Todds in O.C. and no buildup on the rails in about 10 years.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Both my indoor and outdoor railways are all LGB track. I have kept it clean using LGB's own track cleaning block, red in color. Keeps the rail tops polished and doesn't create scratches in the rail's surface that will make matters worse. I have had my track outdoors for over 10 years, splite between here in Indiana and in Erie, PA where its much wetter and snowier. I use thier graphite paste in all my rail joiners. Only had a 2 ever go dead on me where I had to take up that section of track and clean/polish its joiners. I have been slowly gathering the needed stuff to convert to battery power so I can do away with cleaning the rails. Running all metal wheelsets and running trains often helps extend times between when I need to clean the rails. Both of my LGB engines have thier track skates on them, they help as well with keeping the rails cleaner. Mike


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Chuck. Hope you're having fun in sunny AZ. Heading for York tomorrow.

Doc


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Doc

Have fun in York!

Chuck

Ps the picture is about 4 or 5 years old. I took that series of pictures for an earlier track cleaning discussion. The green carpet was replaced with tile three years ago.


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## rntfrmme (May 23, 2013)

FWIW I live in Lost Wages where our water is also pretty hard. I picked up a load of (brass) used track that had a lot of alkali build up. I tumbled the rail joiners in my brass tumbler for eight hours using walnut shells with little effect. A big waste of time. I then soaked the rail joiners in a bowl of straight vinegar over night and they looked almost new. No build up, no scrubbing, it was gone. 

You might possibly try wiping the rail down with vinegar and see how that works. A little patience with a spray bottle might just do wonders.

Bill


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks, sounds like it's worth a try.

Recognize that while most of the track gets watered, this is only in a couple areas where the track stays submerged in the water/_ballast dust_/mud/dirt/shade well after the watering cycle. I think the combination of water/minerals and ballast dust form a "cement" that coats the track.

Would stainless do this??? Most probably if it is subject to the same conditions on a long term basis. Perhaps Greg will submerge some of his stainless in a similar situation and report back in 10 years. Recognize that my track has been down for 18 years and this problem only started in the last couple. Maybe the deposition is some exponential curve.

And as for hardness, there are various chemicals/compounds that make up hardness. And while Carlsbad _may_ have more total hardness, measured as CaCO3, the various constituents that make up this measurement (e.g., calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium) can vary considerably and some of these may be more condusive to this coating behavior than others.

(BTW, I grew up in Lost Wages and did my first year at UNLV in 1971.)


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

rntfrmme said:


> FWIW I live in Lost Wages where our water is also pretty hard. I picked up a load of (brass) used track that had a lot of alkali build up. I tumbled the rail joiners in my brass tumbler for eight hours using walnut shells with little effect. A big waste of time. I then soaked the rail joiners in a bowl of straight vinegar over night and they looked almost new. No build up, no scrubbing, it was gone.
> 
> You might possibly try wiping the rail down with vinegar and see how that works. A little patience with a spray bottle might just do wonders.
> 
> Bill


The man is a genius! Just goes to show that Nevada has some of the best schooling in the country.  (We were 5th in the nation back in my day.)

I tried some distilled white vinegar as a track cleaning fluid and this is the best stuff I've used on the track! I applied it using a scotchbrite pad, and the grime and even discoloration in the brass wipes away in a few passes and the rails shine.

In the future, some vinegar will probably find its way onto my track cleaner. 

Thanks again.


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## rntfrmme (May 23, 2013)

You are too kind, but i'll take the complement. I'm new to the hobby and saving money wherever I can. So far I have about a thousand feet of brass track I have scrounged locally. So necessity is the mother of invention when it comes to cleaning and refurbishing track. Now to find the time to repair/rebuild all the switches I have and start laying track.

Bill


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Todd

You are getting salt accumulation in the low areas, because some of the standing water evaporates rather than soaks in, salts precipitating from the water will slowly build up. This will cement everything together, ballast, track, ties, etc., most likely the major salts are calcium carbonate and/or calcium sulphate. Once the salts start to form they will slowly grow, migrate. Capillary action in the "cement" will carry the water up a little bit above the level of the puddle. As that water evaporates it raises the top level of the salt deposits.

The only way I know of to stop the process is to improve the drainage, so that the water soaks in and doesn't have time to evaporate.

This will happen regardless of the metal in your rails. Salt deposits and oxidation are two entirely different processes.

Chuck


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

I also use a green scotch brite pad on a sanding pole for the track. When things get really bad for a few weeks in Spring with pollen, tree sap and caterpillar poop I will use a scotchbrite pad and a bucket of soapy water.
Another thing to consider is what is leaving a lot of the gunk on your track could be the plastic wheels on your rolling stock. Last Summer I replaced many of the plastic wheels with metal ones and suddenly I wasn't cleaning the track as much.


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## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

Yes, Chuck, keeping the track from riding apart at the connections is another nagging issue. Are the rail clamps an LGB product? What do they clamp onto, the outside or the underside of the rails themselves?


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## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

Yes, keeping the track from riding apart at the connections is another nagging issue. Are the rail clamps an LGB product? What do they clamp onto, the outside or the underside of the rails themselves?


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## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

Yes, Chuck, keeping the track from riding apart at the connections is another nagging issue. Are the rail clamps an LGB product? What do they clamp onto, the outside or the underside of the rails themselves?


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## pdholl50 (Nov 24, 2014)

****, sorry about the spam. Trying to reply on another thread but failing....


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Rail clamps are brass or stainless steel channels that are cut into two pieces and held together by machine screws. They are milled out to conform to the profile of the rail. Slip them over the ends of two pieces of rail and tighten the screws. It is a very secure connection.

I use Split-Jaw, but there are other manufacturers that make them. Try a Google search on rail clamps, or look at a recent GR for ads.

Chuck
here is a link to Split Jaw
http://www.railclamp.com/


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> and conductivity around the loop becomes a headache


And then some of us switched to onboard battery power . .


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

The other option is to solder jumpers across the joint. A piece of 14ga copper house wire ( stripped romex) is easy to solder. I use a Dremel with fine plastic or brass hair wheel to remove oxidation on the track at the spots to solder. The amount of service loop you leave can account for and limit expansion/contraction gaps or can be pulled thought to keep the joint tight.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

And some of us are able to easily succeed on track power and did not have to give up and buy a bunch of batteries and chargers (for you Pete...)

I have not had to even adjust a rail clamp in 5 years.

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm with you Greg. I've been running track power for 30+ years. After a couple of years with occasional broken joiners, in Denver, I used screws through the joiners and didn't have any further problems. Upon moving to Virginia 21 years ago, I started using rail clamps when I added new track. No problems other than a rare splitting of an occasional clamp. Haven't had that problem for years. 

Where I live I would have to sweep the track each session regardless of my power source. Walking the green pad around polishes the rails and sweeps off the leaves, twigs and other stuff that lands on the track. I think the pad is faster than a rake or broom and is less likely to accidentally catch on something near the track, if I'm not paying attention.

The money I save on adding batteries and controllers to more engines, goes into more rolling stock (cars and engines).

The choice of power source is a personal one. No one source is universally suitable for every one. I prefer straight DC for my layouts. But I do have some engines that are battery powered so that I can run as a guest on non track powered layouts.

Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

In case the readers of the thread don't get it... this thread is about cleaning and maintaining track with track power.

I think it is WAY out of line for someone to come in and post about changing to battery. 

I think it's worse when it's a long time member.

Guys, why not respect the op on the thread. We (track power guys) all know you are all proud to have battery power.

I don't think there is anything to brag about, especially those who started on track power and were unable to maintain it.

So, if you don't have something helpful to add to the thread and is on topic, why not just do something else?

Isn't that basic courtesy on ALL forums?

Greg


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Greg, I agree. Keep to topic and not pushing your own personal preference


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

You know, as a bystander, I find the above comments a bit snarky, if not simply, rude. And, I read nothing about 'changing to battery power', but rather simply a comment about using it.

I doubt in a face to face conversation you would ever dare to say, 'that comment doesn't fit within our conversation and don't speak about that issue again'.

I see no problem with a topic which changes into tangential issues. It is, imho, a very natural course for friendly discussions. There a large group of folks, and some will have thoughts on a topic, 'good' or 'bad'.

More to the point, if the OP doesn't object, I don't understand why others feel it necessary to do so.

This police type attitude, imho, as a long time forum member and contributor, adds to the perception of intolerance, rigidity and growing incivility, which is not always helpful nor welcoming to those who may be observing or new to the forum. 

By making a comment about battery power, albeit 'off topic' in terms of track maintenance, it is related as a way to potentially address the issue in another manner, it can serve to open a discussion to the possible benefit not only of the OP but the forum. Not unlike rail clamps and joiners, in this thread, but unrelated to cleaning, but to conductivity, and , smooth running.


Is there a personal issue here I am missing?


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

ive created a monster............LOL.

Actually, what I love about track power, is its relative simplicity and reliability. I don't have to plan, I don't have to manage charging stuff., and I don't need to convert (including DCC).

I can run as many lights and smoke units and sound units as I desire, without practical downside.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd have no problem saying to your face that butting into a track power discussion by suggesting batteries is rude, just like butting into a battery thread and suggesting track power.

I live in San Diego, I'll meet you anywhere you want if you want me to back up my words. It's NOT a threat, I NEVER say anything on a forum I won't back up in public. (I'll even buy your Starbucks if you want, should not waste a meeting entirely! Then we can talk trains.)

As a bystander with almost 600 posts, I find it hard to believe that you are not cognizant of the baiting and competition the battery guys continually fuel the battery vs. track power thing, and how it is a sensitive subject.

And speaking of police type attitude, you violate the rules here by making a personal comment AND if you have not noticed, the owner of the forum desires this forum to be self policing.

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Actually, the owners of the forum are depending on the moderators to keep things in check, same as we always have. And this moderator is saying "enough already." We're done here.

K


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