# USAT Dockside 0-6-0 switcher



## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Does anyone have one of the USAT diecast metal 0-6-0 Dockside switchers? How do you like it? Is it meeting your expectations?

I recently purchased one of these engines. I liked the fact it was all metal, and hence weighs about 13 pounds. I am pulling 6 Aristo Sierra cars with it, and am very pleased so far. It seems to be a very smooth running engine. Since I run battery power, I immediately availed myself of the little connector under the coal load to connect my battery there. A small hole in the rear surface of the coalbox allows the leads from the battery to enter the engine.

I was interested to note that this engine does not have the sliders that USAT commonly uses. Instead, they have brushes pressing against the backside of each of the six drive wheels (3 wheels for each side of the track). I just lifted the bottom cover of the gearbox enough to pop off each of the brushes, eliminating any possible contact of my battery power with the track. I actually didn't even check to see if there was continuity between the power plug and the wheels.

USAT advertises that the engine comes with sound. I was quite interested in this, given the cost of the engine. Well, for my taste, the sound is very rudimentary. It does provide a chuff, and it does have a crossing horn and a bell that can be activated by magnets on the track (USAT includes two nice magnets with the engine). Unfortunately there is no other sound, and the chuff didn't appear to be REAL realistic, at least to my ear. There are no background sounds at all, no air tank sounds, no blow down, and as I recall no start and stop toot (although I may be forgetting that - happens when you get older than 74). As a result, I went into the engine, and disconnected the speaker from the internal sound system, and connected it to another pair of leads that now come out of the rear of the coalbox. Since I had a Sierra "small steam engine" soundboard, I installed that in my lead passenger car along with an adapter board to allow it to work with the Revolution, a Revolution receiver, and a pair of li-ion batteries for DC power. 

Equipped this way, I am quite pleased with the engine. As I said before, it runs well, does not draw a lot of current - appears to draw, on average, a little over 1 amp of power pulling my 6 Sierra passenger cars.

I would be interested to hear of anyone else's experience with this little engine.

Ed


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

One other side note concerning the locomotive is the cab. The good news is that the engine comes with two seated crew members. The bad news is that they are VERY small. THey look more like "O" gauge size rather than 1:29 size. Secondly, while there is a light in the cab, it seems to me we would be better off without a cab. There is very little detail inside the cab. There are no controls for the engineer, nor for the fireman, the firebox is behind the engineer, with a closed firebox door. Also there is nothing on the inside surface of the coal box, actually the circuit board and speaker can be seen through the windows in that direction. There is no floor to the cab, again if you look down in through the windows you see wiring etc. So, it seems to me that we would be better off without a cab light. I may do that one of these days.

Finally, there are two LED lights, in the front and rear. These are nice and bright, but they are both on all of the time. I was wondering if perhaps the 1:1 dockside switchers operated with both lights on all the time, since they would be moving back and forth pretty frequently. Does anyone know how the 1:1 docksides really operated???

Ed


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I do not own one but glade to hear it is up to your expectations. Little small for me for the type of main line running that I do. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, Ed, I have one, and have pulled it apart to look at what the task to do DCC and sound is.

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai.../docksider*

I agree, smooth runner, pulls well, good construction.

You are pretty kind to the "sound system", I'm surprised how crummy it is, since this is the "Prestige Series". It will go in the trash, but I'm researching the chuff pickup electronics, and the 2 boards in the loco share some functions.

Did you notice that the smoke unit chuffs? There is a piston connected to the output of the smoke unit.

I'm going to try to interface the chuff sensor to another DCC/DC decoder, probably a Zimo.

Regards, Greg


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Yeah, I did notice the "chuffing" smoke, Greg, and I agree that is pretty cool. You are more sophisticated than I am. All I did was install the soundboard in a trailing car with two leads coming up to the engine for the speaker. The speaker is pretty tiny too, but it seems to do a reasonable job. Not sure I'd want to push it with more than what Sierra puts out though, given that it is a 1 watt speaker.

I was really surprised at the size of the crew members. I haven't measured them carefully, but I can't believe they are really 1:29 scale figures. Oh well, I'm going to put in some "bigger" guys when I get to it!!!

Like I said, though, it is definitely a "likeable" engine.

Ed


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, I think it will prove to be a real workhorse. I wish it had more "complex" valve gear, but the fit and finish is great. 

Are you going to "Revo" it? 

Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Greg I've got one of those in the basement awaiting a repaint/rebadge and the installation of a decoder, I think one of the new QSI Titans since I have a few coming my way. I'd like to keep the chuffing smoke as is or make it better, but also would like to cut the awful sound system and install DCC. I wonder if the Titan decoders will have any capacity to drive a smoke unit?


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Greg, Yes, I have "Revo'd it". Actually what I did was install the REvolution receiver and the soundboard in the trailing car along with the batteries. I connected the input power to the little connector under the coal load, through a small hole in the rear of the engine. I also connected the speaker through another little hole on the rear surface of the engine so the sound comes from the engine. This way I can use the same receiver and sound for the Dockside, ARisto 0-4-0, or one of my two LGB Moguls.

Do you guys think you'll be able to fit the Zimo or the QSI receiver inside the engine? Seemed to me it is pretty tight under there. I guess if you could remove one or more of the circuit boards that would help a lot.

Ed


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I need to look at the current draw. 

Right now I'm deciding on whether to keep the mechanical puffer or not. I think I will, but drive the heating element from a Zimo. That will let me toss the electronics, except I need to figure out the chuff sensor electronics... want to use that too... 

Greg


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Greg, as you know, running with battery power all the time, current draw is pretty important to me. I did run a "runtime" test on the engine shortly after I got it, and it appears to draw just slightly more than the Aristo FA/RS3/U25B motorblocks (that is one motor in Dockside roughly equals the two motorblocks in the diesels). As you also know I have been rather critical of the current draw of USAT based on the GP38 I had, but I was quite pleased with the performance of the Dockside in this regard. Recognizing that my test did not include 100% of continual travel at a constant speed, it looked to me like my "average" current consumption was a little over 1 amp.

Ed


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## fred j (Jan 12, 2011)

I saw one of these things pulling a 35 car train, That out pullled any thing i have seen steam wise in Largescale. I'm saving up for one Myself.

Gosh USA is Great, They make some Neato stuff. I will want to QSI it if i can.


Fred


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## Adam Anderson (Apr 21, 2011)

I agree, these are a great little locomotive as are all the USAT steamers. Ive had them all from Aster to Aristocraft and USA seems to have made the best most Durable Steamer in Largescale. I have 2 of these and they just keep on Running, never had a issue unlike my Aristocraft and Bachmann Locos that seem to spend more time in the shop then on the Layout.
Regards

Adam.


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

This is a Awsome little locomotive, It can out pull most everything else ive seem in Largescale for its size and it runs great but the sound isn't that good.


Here's a oldie but a goody video, God i luv Blueberry Koolaid................................................









You BETCHA .............LOL


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nick, when I DCC mine, I can DCC yours too, at the same time... give me a bit of time to figure out what will work best, want to experiment with that smoke unit, and want to use the chuff trigger already in there... Should be no problem, since we don't need any batteries, just speaker and single decoder. board. 

Greg


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

That sure sounds great Greg, Should be a Fun DCC project. Thank you.









You BETCHA..........LOL.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think either Zimo (for the smoke effects) or maybe the new QSI (might be fun to use the stereo speaker function). 

We'll see. (nice to have choices)

Greg


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## Adam Anderson (Apr 21, 2011)

Docksider seems to be a great running loco. The sound is a little weak, but pulls like no insider ive ever meet.
I also got a cool new caboose to go with it. The size is just rite and heres a little info for those who wish to have it.








SPECIAL FEATURES [*]  Full Interior Detail with Brakeman Figure [*]  Operating Smoke Unit [*] Battery charging circuit allows marker
lights to remain illuminated when train stops [*]  Interior Lighting [*] Highly Detailed Roof with Walkways [/list] [*]  Metal Handrails and ladders [*]  New Caboose Style Trucks [*] Metal Wheels [*] Quality Graphics [*] Road Number Matrix [*] Center Cupola Caboose Instructions 
*Item Number* *Description* *Price* R12150 Undecorated - Painted Red (Unlettered) $199.95 R12151  Alaska  - Blue/Yellow 199.95 R12152  Baltimore & Ohio - Red 199.95 R12153  Boston & Maine - Blue 199.95 R12154  Boston & Maine - Brown/Red Ends 199.95 R12155  Canadian National - Red 199.95 R12156  Canadian Pacific - Brown/Red Ends 199.95 R12157  Chessie -Yellow/Orange 199.95 R12158 Christmas - Red 199.95 R12159 Conrail  - Blue 199.95 R12160 Delaware & Hudson  - Red/Black 199.95 R12161 Erie Lackawanna  - Oxide 199.95 R12162  Lehigh & New England - Red/Yellow Stripe 199.95 R12163 Lehigh Valley  - Cornell Red 199.95 R12164 Maine Central  - Harvest Gold/Green 199.95 R12165 New Haven  - Sacony Red 199.95 R12166 New York Central  - Brown 199.95 R12167 Pennsylvania  - Brown/Black 199.95 R12168  Reading - Red 199.95 R12169  Santa Fe - Red 199.95 R12170  Southern Pacific - Brown/Orange 199.95 R12171  Toronto Hamilton & Buffalo - Yellow/Black 199.95 R12172  Union Pacific - Yellow/Oxide 199.95 R12173  Western Maryland - Brown 199.95 R12174 Jersey Central Lines - Red 199.95 R12175 Great Northern - Red 199.95 R12176 Bethlehem Steel - Yellow 199.95 
Home Cabooses Dealer Requirements New Releases E-mail *USA Trains*
P.O. Box 100, Malden, MA 02148
Phone: (781) 322-6084
Fax: (781) 321-6459


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## Ward H (Jan 5, 2008)

Concerning the Docksider sound system, is the chuff a double chuff? Friend just bought one and I heard it last night. At slow speeds it had a double chuff, which sounded odd. I listened to Nick's video but couldn't be sure as he was runninghis at speed.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, seems to be some interference of the valve gear and the chuff sensor:




Greg


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## Ward H (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks for the video Greg. Can you let us know what fix you end up applying? 
I am going to get him to try the puffing smoke today.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have not converted this loco yet, want to preserve the puffing smoke, and am investigating the regulator circuit, since there is also a temperature sensor in the smoke unit. 

I suppose the hall effect circuit might just need some changes to the magnets used. 

Will post when I do it. 

Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I've got one of these in pieces, waiting for the new QSI titan decoder. I'm also trying to keep the puffing smoke, but may gut it and try something else if the QSI titan ends up beng able to drive a smoke unit


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The thing on the smoke unit may be to drive the element directly, but find a way to "read" the temp sensor. Have not seen any details on decoders that do this, but have not looked for this feature diligently yet. The puffer piston may work ok. 

The other method (Which is what I am doing first) is just optimize it for max smoke and let the mechanical puffer do it's thing. 

Greg


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

On the video, after eliminating the "double chuff" effect, it seemed there were only two chuffs per revolution? 

Robert


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

yep, typical, prototype chuff rate often gets too much at higher speeds 

greg


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*I 'stole' one of the USA Docksiders 060T fot $150 off of Evil-Bay.







*
*The prior owner had horror stories and 2 return shipments to USA (no problem found).* 

*So he gutted the electronics/smoke and connected the track to the motor.







*
*He even changed the White/Blue LED's for WarmWhite Lights from days of old.*

*The 'truck' arrived while I was at work. It took only one hour to install a 
QSI Aristo/Magnumn (Not TITAN) and get the lights working - **minus the chuff. 
The whole chuff/smoke assembly was also removed.*

*The smoke is no real big deal for me since I mostly use battery's.*
*Now I am working on a solid mechanical chuff (magnet-on-axel+PickUp on frame today.*

*Very nice STUMP PULLER 4-sure.*

*Ed/Greg/et-al*
*What decoder did you end up with for the docksider?

Words of wisdom to get the chuff trigger working (CV/setting-wise)?

I attemped to use the default setting on 2 different boards with
the same (programmed chuff - not the chuff switch) action?

It's a cold rainy day so maybe I will find the DCC manual and re-read it!
Being a diesel guy - chuff is a 4-letter word......;^)...*


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*Guys*
*The 'chuff' solution has been corrected after reading the manual (SURPRISE---not).







*

*CV 56 just had to be changed from 0 to 10 to enable the CHUFF CAM *
*sensor to enable the syncronized chuff.







*

*There was a cut-out on the front frame that allowed a Phoenix type reed switch to be installed*
*with a matching Radio Shack "Super magnet" to be attached to the from axel.

The only catch was the lower motor block cover plate needed some 'adjustment' with my
dremel tool to handle the Super magnet 3/16" attached to the front axel.

I installed a set of QSI super caps to keep the sound alive at the station.

Just need to install some tie wraps to finish this upgrade.

Anyone have a spare working old QSI (Non-Titan) decoder board collecting dust?*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Hah! 

I have a line forming for mine... Probably will let them go for around $100 to $115 .... 

Greg


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## Dean Palmer (Mar 30, 2021)

Has anyone found a solution to the double chuff on the stock locomotive? Meaning not gutting it or replacing parts with aftermarket devices. I had thought that someone was considering placing a block of ferrous metal in there somewhere to smooth out the magnetics.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you watch my video?


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## Dean Palmer (Mar 30, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Did you watch my video?


Yes, I've watched all the videos and I've tried to digest the years of info, but I have not found anywhere that anyone shows a solution to the factory setup. On my unit, I cannot even get the chuff to go single by placing the end of the screwdriver (or any metal rod) near the sensor. Unless I have missed it, I was looking for someone to show how to place a chunk of metal or do something to the devices to fix the double chuff. Did I miss something? I've spent hours researching it. I know the root cause is shown, but yet to find a solution and directions to implement without installing other aftermarket parts.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The things I would try would be repositioning the sensor, a different magnet, or failing that a debouncing circuit (requires a knowledge of electronics)

Greg


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## Dean Palmer (Mar 30, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> The things I would try would be repositioning the sensor, a different magnet, or failing that a debouncing circuit (requires a knowledge of electronics)
> 
> Greg


I will dig into it and post results if I get it fixed


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## Dean Palmer (Mar 30, 2021)

So, after tinkering on the test rollers, the solution to the double chuff issue is to move the sensor device away from the flywheel slightly as Greg suspected. No need to add metal or anything, just a slight tug and it is almost visually no different, but the double chuff is eliminated.


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