# Cutting Kadee coupler "hoses" off...ouch!



## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm posting this here as it is a rant of sorts (and I believe the Public Forum is for rants?). Anyway, this weekend I installed some of the new Kadee 900 series couplers to a loco and caboose. They look and operate great.

I'm looking into adding Ozark's air hoses to a select few cars and locos so I'll be cutting off the Kadee "hoses" as I do not use magnetic uncoupling and really have no use for the Kadee "hose".


So I cut off the hoses on four Kadee couplers. Man was that hard to do. I still have a painful blister on my left hand from it (maybe wear gloves next time).


What I used was a simple cutting pliers. Looks like this (although mine is older and has yellow handle grips):










It worked, but I had to crimp and crimp and crimp and this required a lot of hand crushing strength before the hose would break off. Then I filed down what was left. But it was hard work to cut off the hose, and the crushing strength required to cut these little hoses off was really surprising. And it took forever to do just one. Not a pleasant thought considering how many of these I might end up cutting off.


The big problem couplers seemed to be the 903 (Large Offset). There isn't much room to get a cutting tool close in for flush cutting with this large offset coupler head. The 901 centerset couplers were easier to cut the hoses off as the coupler head did not get in the way of the cutting tool. But I have loads of truck mounted couplers on LGB type equipment so I'll be dealing with lots of 903s in the future. 

Are there any better methods to cut Kadee hoses off? Maybe a better tool to use? My hand is still hurting







Maybe I just need to sharpen my cutting pliers as they are probably 15 years old.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Moto-tool (Dremel) with a cut-off wheel.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Yea, your cutting pliers are made for copper. These are ferrous, *much* harder!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have had many people melt the Kadee plastic when using the carbide cutoff wheels. I would keep a bowl of ice water handy and dip the coupler in it. 

I f you got a small pair of "bolt cutters" that cut chain or locks that would nip the pin off easily. You might have to look for a pair that cut close to the ends, or grind the tips a bit. This would be very fast and no heat. About $15.









Regards, Greg


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Hmmm, never thought about using a Dremel. That would be a lot easier, but the heat could be an issue. 

I'll look into getting a bolt cutter. It would come in handy for other uses as well.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Smaller size bolt cutters will do the job although it's difficult to get a very close cut. I usually just leave a small bit hanging as they hardly show when painted and weathered. Easier on the couplers too.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, I use the same type of cutter. Just bear down and "clip", off goes the hose. Where it lands is another question....


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Safety glasses.... 

Greg


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By toddalin on 08 Mar 2010 12:55 PM 
Moto-tool (Dremel) with a cut-off wheel.

Dremel with the abrasive cut-off wheel. They cut everything. Just take it easy so it does not overheat.


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## Robbie Hanson (Jan 4, 2008)

For the single hose I've cut off(Big Boy front coupler), I pushed the hose out the bottom of the coupler 1/8 inch or so past its normal point, hacksawed the hose off, pushed it back and then filed it flat.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt, 

I agree about the Dremel with a cut-off wheel. Just make sure it is a REINFORCED wheel, i.e. it has fibers running through the wheel to keep it from exploding. I was in a trade where we used these on a daily basis and they DO (the PLAIN WHEELS) explode! SAFETY GLASSES! You won't generate that much heat. Just go easy.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Using a fine tooth sonna saw works great also. Later RJD


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I use a good, sharp set of lineman's wire cutters. I tap the pin down from above around 1/8" or so, clip it (hint: put the pin as close to the pivot as possible) and clip. Then just tap the remaining part back into place. I used to use Dremels and saws, but it was far more trouble than this method. 

Later, 

K


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

I remove the factory "hose" on all Kaydee installations with a razor saw, the plastic handled Atlas or Zona type. It helps to hold the uncoupling pin in a bench vise, but not necessary. The steel used for the uncoupling pin is rather soft, so any fine-tooth hand saw should work fine. 

Larry


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

yea, what they said. side cutters.


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## DTI356 (Jan 3, 2008)

Clamp the 'hose' in a vise and use a hacksaw. Works great and gives a flat end - just a touch with a file finishes it off. You can do a bunch in a short time and will reduce the safety factor as well as keep the heat down.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

I have a set of high quality miniature 8" bolt cutters, been using them for years on small hardware, bolts and piano wire. These can be had for about $40.00 now days... Another invaluable tool in the scheme of things... Do a search with 8" minature bolt cutters, lost of results.

Quality cut-off wheels are a must, inexpensive NON-reinforced wheels are dangerous!!!!! 

Regards, 
Michael


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