# V&T Flanger build



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Over a year ago, I modeled (on computer) the V&T's Flanger #52. While a plow gets the snow off the track, a "flanger" gets the ice off the railhead and on the inside where the wheel flanges ride. If that ice isn't removed, the wheels could ride up on it, and plop over and off the rails.










The rotating red target on top tells the engineer if the blades are down. The flanger was driven in front of a specially-equipped loco, and operated by a single dedicated air valve in the cab.










It took quite a lot of what-if modeling with the computer and emails with a V&T historian and others to figure out how the mechanism worked. That was fun because the computer model helped clear up a couple of puzzles. And, I love the historical research part.

Here's a short animation or two that give an idea. The black double-bar that folds down at the end is a locking device that safely holds the blades up. If the blades were lowered while, say, running through a switch, it could tear the frog & inner rails up. 











I designed around Bachmann trucks, brass rod and a body built from scratch out of cedar strips. 










Shapeways printed the "metal" bits out of black nylon.



















Over the holidays I finally got a start, and cut all the wood and brass. 










Last weekend I was able to get going on assembly of the main car, which has a lower and upper deck. The prototype was weighted with rail in between these decks, but mine is weighted with 1/4" x 1-1/4" flat bar. 



















Jerry (Naptowneng) has been helping me think through the painting process, and here is the car with 1 diluted wash coat of Tuscan Red acrylic. That's the best choice, per the historian. This paint came in a 2 oz bottle from Walmart, for 50 cents (yes, in Tuscan Red)!










I've darkened it up since with a 2nd wash coat. Next will be some slight weathering, though this needs look like it's in-service. Then the fun part, assembly of the "metal" bits. 

For detailing, I started this project with the notion of doing an entirely 3D-printed set of plastic parts (in addition to the commercial items and stock that I mentioned earlier). I didn't bother with small details such as nut-washer items, because those would be tough to individually 3D print. But now that I've gotten into this (my first scratch build), little bits like that are on their way from Ozark, which will be a lot of fun to play with. 

One more detail thing to mention. If you look closely at the trucks (in the first pic), you'll see there's no springs. This was because (and I've confirmed this with those who know best) it was vital to have the blade properly distanced from the rail surfaces. And not bouncing on the rails, and gouging them. So, in place of the springs, they installed blocks of wood. Here's a higher res shot.

http://unrspecoll.pastperfectonline.com/photo/187F9058-45CA-4F10-8FD6-794825814425

I'll probably 3D print or carve these blocks, and glue them to the BM spring cavities. 

===>Cliffy


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Superb job Cliff! What program did you use to design your parts? Did you make your parts available for others to print via shapeways? What scale are you building to?

Thanks,
Jim


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jim, that means a lot! 

I've used SolidWorks for this.

The scale has been a tough call. Most of my locos (BM) seem to be 1:20.3, and I've resigned myself to that -- even though the V&T is standard gauge... ugh. So, what with working against prototype drawings and all, I had to make a compromise here, and went with 1:22.5. It's hard to be a rivet counter under these circumstances, 

My desire has been to make the parts available on SW (or even provide a whole kit), and I've been keeping the cutting and assembly drawings updated as I build it myself.

There is a big problem though, in that SW has really increased its prices. Like, more than doubled, from what I've seen on other project quotes. 

The other problem is that the 3D printed SLS nylon isn't the sturdiest of materials. For example, the handrail stanchions are iffy, these might need to become more brass rod and some 3DP "pipe fittings." For other parts, I might need to probe different printing methods before I'd feel comfortable recommending that someone would spend serious $$. 

Things I'm looking into though are PLM-3D printing (I have a PLM printer I need to put together and learn to use), at least for larger parts like the blades. Then, use Ozark bits for all the standard stuff on the undercarriage and car body. 

So, that's the long answer,


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking good Cliffy my man!


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

That looks really cool.

What are you thinking for tolerances on the parts that "scrape" the rails, and is this intended to be a working model? I was wondering how it would work out with the mechanism being centered on the car... on our non-prototypical curves. Also, I have some places where there are gaps between rails (insulated joiners, mostly) and was curious if it might get hung up on those if the mechanism touches the rails.

I noticed that about Shapeways prices, too. I'm working on 3D models for some parts for one of my armored draisines and a little 3 x 3 x 2 (inch) assembly of parts came out to $125 shipped. If I bought three or four of those, I could pay for a printer... I suspect that their business model will falter as their prices push more folks to get into printing for themselves.

Anyway, you've got a neat project going there.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Chris!

Hey Dan, and thanks. I don't intend this to be a working model, scraping ice off the rails. But, I hope to make it "work" to the extent of mechanism motion, just for fun.

I agree, I wouldn't have bought a 3D printer if SW had kept its prices reasonable. For example, a stationary steam engine model I did a year and a half ago was $80. But now it's $160.

And, a big thanks to Stan Cedarleaf! Using a prototype drawing I sent him, he worked up the decal art, sent the proofs, did the printing, and mailed them out in a day. Wow, what service!

CJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Last Saturday I messed with the "weathering." I'm afraid it's pretty amateurish, but I had to draw the line and get moving on with assembly. 

I'd done two light wash coats of Tuscan Red over the cedar, but it was too uniform. So, using Jerry B's recommended vinegar + steel wool method, I did a very very diluted series of dabs here and there. After that, a very very very diluted series of dabs over everything. 

Then, I played with Jax blackener on the brass rods and steel wheels.

Sunday I began the undercarriage and mechanism assembly, and here's a couple shots.



















The 3DP parts are really grainy, in need of some paint.

More later...

Cliff


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Last weekend I assembled the main mechanism, and here's a few progress pics.




























The last pic shows Ozark the brake wheel and grab rails. I switched to those because the 3DP parts were flimsier. 

I'm in the process of adding some nut/bolt/washer castings. My first time working with the white metal parts, pretty fun. 

===>Cliffy


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Ah Cliff, looking very nice. Keep working, as it seems you will need that flanger plow to keep the V&T open after this weekend's snow. I like the variations in reds on the boards, looks very realistic.

Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jerry, I appreciate the kind comments. The variation in the red was achieved with your secret sauce (vinegar with steel wool) after the staining. I really like how it looks used and in-service, but not derelict. Come to think of it, looks kinda like my newly-refinished deck after the first year's wear. 

Speaking of weather, yeah, I heard the weatherman used the B(lizzard) word in today's forecast, huh...


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff your work is awesome. You must have a ton of patience to that kind of modeling. There is no way I could handle that. Pete


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

That's mighty generous of you Pete, I sure wouldn't go that far, haha! But thanks for the compliment, it's a nice motivator to get 'er done. 

Speaking of which, I'll be bringing the flanger to the LSC show-and-tell at York, and I'm sure Jerry (naptowneng) will be bringing his latest. Hope to see you there, it's a blast.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Haven't had much time for the flanger this weekend, but I did get some n-b-w castings from Ozark installed. Specifically, 1/2" and 3/4" ones.










Also modeling the (let's see if I can say it right) "body bolster truss rod washer plates." And the block pockets, in place of the truck springs, because the latter were locked out to maintain proper blade height. These will be 3d printed at Shapeways.










I'd like to model the brake hoses, but I can't find an Ozark product (with a photo) that looks like these. Anyone know of the right Ozark kit, photo or no photo?

Also wondering if I should get into the brake detailing... I'll post my quandary on a different thread.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Kevin S. gave me a neat brake shoe solution, and here it is in the computer model:










The two rods holding the brake beams in place are themselves held by new beam screwed to the truck's underside, using the existing BM screws (or maybe a bit longer).










The shoes are Ozark, the center rod beam is being made at Shapeways. Rods are brass, shoe beams will be cedar.

It'll be a couple more weekends till I get the parts in (and finish some work travel), so I'm trying to arrange all the missing bits now. Only remaining bunch of details are the brake linkage parts, and I'm not seeing a clear Ozark candidate yet (at least, one having a photo that I can check out). 

===>Cliffy


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I met with Cliff at a local dive bar to swap train stories, and he brought the flanger model. I assure you this thing is a beauty, that is some great work Cliff. Looking forward to the trucks and etc., being installed, and seeing it running on the SC&M Railroad. 

Jerry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks very Jerry, I'm sure glad you liked it!
Your caboose is amazing, I really enjoyed seeing it up close and appreciating all the detail work you did.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I've been working on the brake system for this flanger. It's been a tough slog, because:

-- I've never really understood RR car brake systems, but I want to.
-- The flanger has narrower sills than standard cars, and a centered brake cylinder, so those are departures from the norm.
-- I've bought the Ozark "K" kit, and am trying to work with that.
-- But I think that this flanger, with its unsual sill placements, used non-standard link bars.

Unless one of you c. 1880's brake system aficionados can point out a clear mistake that I've made, the choice I'm facing seems to be between the following:

-- Staying with the Ozark links bars, bend the brass rod around the cylinder, slit my wrists, and just call it a day.
-- Rolling my own link bars via Shapeways. Or just make my own in brass, using my meager manual skills, knowing that they made special live and floating brake linkage bars for this particular car.

Just trying to think it thru, so thanks for listening. Here's some pics WITHOUT THE FLANGER MECH.



















And, the proto:










CJ


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Cliff

Have you tried doing some of your cool animations of the brake system in action? Perhaps that would help you construct a plausible design scenario for it's operation

Jer


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jer, I'll keep that in mind. I'm afraid that for this project though, since I didn't plan the brakes along with all else, it'll probably end up only sorta looking like a brake system, but not under close inspection. But, we'll see.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I've finished the design of the brake linkage & plumbing. Because the flanger is so narrow, and the lack of documentation, it's hard to know exactly what was going on underneath. 

I'll have to abandon the Ozark link levers and roll my own out of brass. And, add various questionable blocks & bits to mount everything. The lever geometry is still wrong, but I had to keep the cylinder centered between the blade braces, and the linkage between the narrow truss rod arrangement. Honestly, I have no idea how they fit everything together on this narrow chassis. So, this design is only an approximation & guess. And there it will have to remain. 



















I am using the Ozark hose fittings, here's an end shot. Hope the couplers clear! 











Now, to try to build it!

CJ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

It just dawned on me what the problem is with the brake lever geometry. Since the proto was standard gauge, there was more width than this 1:22 scale squeezed version has. That would permitted the levers to be longer, and do their job. But as I've modeled them, they would never work, the forces would be stupidly wrong.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Making some progress today on the brake system. 










The hose valves & brackets are Ozark. The piping is brass rod with soldered tube for couplings. 










Hmm, need to straighten that cylinder out! There are two air lines, one set for brakes, the other for the flanger; and they have to cross over each other. Hoses are on both ends, to be able to drag or push the flanger, and have the brake air continue to other cars.

The trucks are almost done. 










Shoes from Ozark, show beams are cedar, hanger rods brass. The adapter is 3d printed. Thanks again Kevin for the idea!

Next step is the brake linkage...

Cliff


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking good Cliffy. Stay away from the 7-11 Burritos and you can spend more time at the bench on it.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

As usual, very cool.


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Very nicely done mate, love the details.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Chris, Chris Scott, Scott, I'm pleased you like it. 
Uppy Chris, point taken.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Still pecking away on this, and I think I had some success today on the brake hoses.

The Ozark valve and glad hand castings are ok, and they have a stem to insert into a small bit of hose. Unfortunately, the length of tubing they supplied with the hose kit was too large in diameter to anywhere fit the stems.

Any rigid alternative is out, because the way these hang put there demands flexibility. The tubing needs to hug the mating components, and not be unsightly in outer diameter. And finding the right adhesive seems like a science project, especially in view of the unknown material of the tbd tubing. 

So, after several experiments with different products, here's what I ended up with for the hoses.

1. Cut a a 1/2" bit of insulation from a #14 solid wire (the kind used for house wiring)
2. Use that to connect the stems of the valve and glad hand
3. Cut a 3/4" bit of 1/8 OD heat shrink tubing
4. Install that over the insulation, and let it lap onto the of the bulges on the valve and glad hand
5. Take a match or lighter, and shrink the outer tube (the inner insulation maintains a decent OD for the heatshrink, and also gets flexible when the heat is applied)
6. Take a block of wood or something, and prop the thing to its desired droop

That way, the result is a hose that...
- droops as desired
- is semi-flexible (for when the coupler or other stuff hits it)
- is easily and cheaply replaced when needed

Here's a pic.










To the left is the stack up of, from top to bottom, the glad hand, insulation, and valve.
To the right is with the outer shrink-tube applied. 

There was printing on the heatshrink, but it cleaned off easily with a q-tip and lacquer thinner.

An improvement might be to make a band of (twisted & soldered) copper wire at the very ends of the heatshrink, to represent the actual hose clamp and ensure the model hose stays firmly connected. 

But then I thought, Naaah... not for this project, I need to get to the brake linkage.

Cliff


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

It's looking terrific, Cliffy. 

Do you plan for the hoses to actually "connect" to other cars, or are they going to appear connected based on the curvature of the hoses and the distance between cars? I ask because I abandoned my project to duplicate the commercially available air hose coupling that works with extremely small rare earth magnets...

If you were thinking about doing something similar, I could try to dig the magnets up and pass them along.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Dan!

No, these are just for looks, but thanks for the offer. What did you use for hose material?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Finally got the brake linkage in, woo hoo!



















I found that the main two groups surrounding the two levers could be pre-assembled. I slightly crimped the clevises to the levers to hold them in place, then inserted 1/8" long .062 rod and sideways-crimped (slightly) the clevises to the rods. Some CA will come next to bond the joints together, after some touchup painting.

And the trucks are done,










Note the wood blocks in place of the springs.

Next is final touchup painting of everything, decals, and maybe a little weathering. 

Cliff


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

CliffyJ said:


> Thanks Dan!
> 
> No, these are just for looks, but thanks for the offer. What did you use for hose material?


Before I gave up?  Most of the images I've seen of NG European locos have "ribbed" hoses and a lot of the Euro LGB stuff is provided with them, so I wanted something that wasn't smooth like U.S. hoses are. I found a bulk buy (25, I think) of the ribbed hoses they sell for Legos. They're about the right diameter, once you cut off the "connectors" on the ends, though the ribs are out of scale. 

Unfortunately, I was trying to do way too many things at once--I had the magnets embedded in the hose ends with wire crimped/wrapped around the rare earth magnets, because I had the brilliant idea that I could use the setup to conduct electricity and have both "working" air hoses and a simple way to connect/disconnect an electrical connection between cars. It worked OK on my bench on a test section of track, but was way too finicky outdoors.

Once I've finished grading the layout and level/ballast the whole track I may give it another go. But it's definitely a back-burner project for now


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

OK, understood Dan. I've got a bunch of those back-burner projects, waiting for another jolt of inspiration and opportunity.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Almost done! Yesterday was touchup and making the display base, today was completing the base and applying Stan Cedarleaf's excellent decals. I think the only thing remaining is top-coating with flat overcoat.

Here's how she's looking.





































Thanks all for watching, and for all the kind encouragements during this project!

===>Cliffy


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliffy;

The flanger really looks great. Are you planning to enter it in a contest at York? The display base is a really good feature for showing the "works." You may want to place some LGB wheel chocks on the back rail to keep things from moving. Fore and aft wheels on one truck should be sufficient. You can always tone down the bright yellow plastic on the wheel chocks by painting them a dark rust color.

I have run out of time to do the B&G RR car I was hoping to build. I got my Accucraft Dora running instead. Hoping to purchase one or more "peekaboo" horse stock cars at the show. They will get repainted and lettered as "Rides of Rohan - The Finest Horses in all of Middle Earth."

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi David, 

Thanks for suggesting the flanger is contest quality! Didn't know there was a contest though, other than the drag & brag, where last year Bob just handed out out 1st place ribbons to everyone, haha! But is there something more formal?

Yes, I was also concerned that the thing wouldn't fall off it's pedestals. So there are four vertical rods hammered into the base, which hold the trucks in place. 

Where will you be running your Dora? And are you going to the drag & brag Friday night?


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliffy;

There used to be a model contest at the ECLSTS. I didn't pay attention last year, as I was having some teething problems with the Dora. The contest may have passed into history after 2013 and the demise of AristoCraft. Perhaps another regular attendee can set us straight.

I am planning to bring the Dora and my two Roundhouse locomotives to run. I should have several B&G RR cars with me. The Roundhouse ALCO 2-6-2t (Gandalf) tends to take off like a scalded cat if you don't tie a sufficient train behind it. I won't make the drag & brag, as my college buddy will be with me Friday, and we will be headed back to his place in Fredericksburg, PA by then.

Regards,
David Meashey


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for the info David. I guess there's only one live steam layout, so I'll try to catch your train there!


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

re: contest: While I have no knowledge of 2016 contest, I finished my log loader model to take to ECLSTS last year 2015, and was informed the contest was dead too much work to manage, etc.
So I just went and got a first place ribbon at the drag and brag 

I can speculate none this year either, no mention of it on the site

Jerry

Flanger looks great Cliff! Needs to run on the SC&M with plow flanger OV

J


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Very nice looking flanger, and displayed very nice
Dennis


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Jer, and thanks Dennis!

Bummer about the contest-less-ness Jer, maybe we should prod the powers that be to find a different avenue than Aristocraft...


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Fantastic! Now I know why you put so much work on the underside  Sweet display.

-Jim


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hey, thanks Jim! It was a heck of a lot easier to make the display than that stuff under the chassis, haha! I was inspired by the display that Jerry B. made for his log loader, which had a mirror arranged like this.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Great car on a great display. You done GOOD!


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks very much Winn!


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## Loggerhead (Feb 16, 2016)

Cliff. Came across this build today while looking for truss rod fabrication hints. Very nice work ! Did you finish, any additional pictures ?. Question, did you decide on making any of the parts, plans avail for others to scratch build?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Hi Loggerhead,

Thanks very much. I did finish it, and was able to show it at a couple of conventions this year. 

Though I did make full plans, I'm not sure I have the (3d printed) parts in a buy-able condition at Shapeways... long story, but I haven't kept up on that end. They'd be pretty expensive parts through Shapeways, after their price hikes, but if you're serious about it let me know. 

Cliff


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