# help : yellow pine 2-6-0- bachmann wont go moter noise?



## big Jerr (May 7, 2008)

hello ; its been many years, now that its time to let go of our family g scale collection a boxed like brand new unit was set on test track and makes moter noise but dont move tuning over I can see the worm moveing but wheels dont, is this a gear ? and is it hard to replace or find ? Itas a brand new looking unit from about 2002. its a baccmann 2-6-0 mogal old fashion like a 4-4-0, Jerry


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Most likely the main gear is cracked or broken. Bachmann sells replacements or you can get one from Northwest ShortLine. It's not difficult to fix, but dealing with the valve gear that's attached to the drive axle is a bit finicky. I read a how-to someone posted recently as they did this. I forget exactly where, but I think it was either at LargeScaleCentral or Bachmann's forum. 


Here's the instructions:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,19904.0.html

Note--there seems to be a bit of discrepancy as to the number of teeth the main drive gear has. According to NorthwestShortLine's replacement gears, the 2-6-0/4-4-0 gear is a 24-tooth gear (part #2223-6). On the ones I've got here, it's a 25-tooth gear (part #2226-6, the same as what's in the 2-8-0.) My suggestion - take the gearbox apart, count the teeth, and order the correct gear. 

Note also that if the original gear is just slipping on the axle, you can just repair that gear. I had that happen to one of mine. The hub cracked to where it was slipping on the axle, but the rim was intact. I took some 3/8" brass tubing (I forget whether that's ID or OD--measure the gear), cut two thin slices off of it, and used that to reinforce the hub of the gear. Then I used a bit of JB Weld to put the gear back in place. The loco's running great 3 years later. 


Later, 

K


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## big Jerr (May 7, 2008)

thank you, I shall check out its funny that every thing I get out to sell is in need of some sort of repair ,just reworked a set a USA f-3 gears with brass sleaves ,all cracked ,but easy to get too compared to this 2-6-0 ,I started to take it apart from bottem but was stopped by all the parts ...thanks again


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## big Jerr (May 7, 2008)

WOW I COUNT 25 TEETH TOO ! thanks for the info ,so very helpful ...Jerry


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

hi

There have been quite a lot of entries re this

here is one http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?pid=172780#p172780

the best one is the one of Bachmann trains on-line at the following link http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,19904.0.html Note in this post there is a photobucket link - that is a whole series of very good photos on the job.


Kevin also did a post somewhere one of the points from that was that the eccentrics need taping up to keep them all together.

I have a 4 4 0 that needs a new gear I have bought a couple from NWSL - their reference is 2223-6 for them - mine are black, and they are Delrin, and they are $11.95 each I believe, plus post. I live in England and they were quite quick for delivery.


They are a bit difficult to find on their website - type into the search ' Bachmann' is the best way. 



Extra ------- 


I have just looked for my files on these duff gears - here is Kevin Strong's comments on how to do it - with Thanks to Kevin.

You've got to drop the bottom plate that holds the bearing blocks in place in order to drop out the motor and gear assembly. A bunch of little screws to either side of each axle into the frame. Careful to make sure when you drop this that the springs that are between the top of the bearing block and the top of the frame don't get lost. With that plate out of the way and the siderods removed (hint: do this first), you should be able to drop the motor and gearbox assembly. Next step is to remove the drivers. There's a small cap over the center of each driver that hides a screw. Gently pry that off with a flat-head screwdriver to reveal the phillips head screw beneath. Remove that screw, and gently pull the wheels off the axle. The drivers are quartered, so you don't need to worry about that. Remove the bearing block, paying attention to its orientation. (And don't lose the springs.) Then you'll want to remove all the eccentrics and valve gear stuff. Hint - clamp or tape all that stuff together so it doesn't come apart. That way you can easily put it back together once you're done.

Now, you should have the motor, gearbox, and axle. I forget exactly how to take the gearbox apart, but I think it's six or so screws from the side that expose the gears. With that open, you can inspect the gears to figure out where the problem is. 99% of the time, it's going to be the main gear on the axle that's split. You have a few options.

1) If it's just the hub that's cracked and loose on the axle, but the outside part of the gear is intact, you can get some 3/8" brass tubing, cut some thin slices off, and reinforce the hub of the gear with that. A little JB Weld and you're good to go. I did one that way and it's held up nicely since.

2) Call Bachmann service and get a replacement gear (if they have them). This should be around a $3 gear. Once you get that gear, get some 3/8" brass tubing, cut some thin slices to reinforce the hub, JB Weld in place, and reassemble. (You don't "need" to do that, but you'll just have to open the gearbox up down the road to do so or replace the gear again.

3) Order a replacement Delrin gear from Northwest ShortLine (Part # 2223-6, $12.95). This is a Delrin gear which has proven to be quite a bit stronger than the stock gear. To my knowledge, no one makes a metal replacement gear.

If it's not the main axle gear that's broken, then your only option is to call Bachmann and get a replacement for that gear, or a replacement motor/gear assembly.

Of course, if you're adventurous and don't mind doing some cutting and fitting, I've pondered fitting a BBT B'mann 2-8-0 replacement motor/gearbox in one of my 2-6-0s. I'm pretty sure there's ample room in the boiler, but you'd have to cut away some of the bottom so the gear tower could extend up. You'd also probably lose the operating reverse gear (no big loss, if it means the loco runs reliably.) Some day, I'll splurge for one and experiment. (Or, Barry will develop a replacement gearbox, hint, hint. wink

Good luck!

I also found some more to help - with thanks to the original posters as I have ommited to add who they were! Kevin is one of them

copy start



Taking apart the Bachmann 4 4 0





Remove the drivers by popping the little "hub caps" off the center of the drivers and using a small phillips head screw to loosen the screw that holds the driver in place. (You may want to remove the side rods first, but it's not mandatory. You should at this point be able to take the axle (with the eccentrics) at least far enough out of the frame to remove the bearing blocks. Next, carefully remove the eccentrics, each side as one unit. Have a small clamp handy to put on this assembly once it's off the axle. You'll want to keep this together. Do the same for the other side. Then you should be able to get to the axle to remove/replace the gear. 


Watch the springs dont go zoink when you remove the axle boxes[/b]






Northwest Short Line has a replacement gear for the 2-6-0/4-4-0. I forget what the exact part number is, but it's listed in the same place as their 2-8-0 replacement gear. If I recall, it's one number off, like 2225-6 or something, but don't quote me. 

That's going to be a more robust gear than the Bachmann gear, but if the Bachmann gear is not cracked all the way through, you can probably just repair it by using a little JB-weld on the axle to hold the gear firmly. I did this for my 4-4-0 gear, and it's held up well. You can also take some 3/8" brass tubing, cut two thin slices off of it, and use that to reinforce the hub of the Bachmann gear. That in conjunction with the JB-weld, and I think you'll have a good, solid gear. 

If the gear is cracked all the way through, I'd replace the gear. You could use the same brass sleeve method to reinforce it and bring it back together, but the $13 for the NWSL gear will be far less headache down the road.





This bit for info.





Had a go at removing gear and gearbox Thanks to Kevin! result 1 gear which is in two halves ( have'nt figured out how to post pic yet) and have been in touch with NWSL re new gear, question is as this appears to be a weak link why is this not corrected during manufacture? I am a bit brassed off by this as the Loco has only done about 4hrs running from new.
Close inspection of the gear shows that instead of being solid the gear has a recess cut into both sides in effect the meat driving the loco is only about 1/32" thick no wonder it fractures.
I have elected not to send it back as I reside in the UK and this would not be cost effective. this spoils what is otherwise a very well engineered model.


NWSL info for gear





The reference number from NWSL is as follows - 2223-6 

The description is as follows.

#1 Bachmann 4-4-0 axle gear 24T SGd x 15.5mm OD x 1/4″ ID






Instructions for removing - 



Always good to hear from another Railroader Sorry to hear about the problem you have, I must admit I was gutted as the loco had run less than 8 hrs from new.
Any way I ordered a new gear and fitted and the loco runs a treat.
1st of all you will require a cradle to fit the loco in upside down, If you have not got one I would suggest that you make one, as it could be in it for as long as it takes you to get round to doing the repair.
Once the loco is upside down and well supported it is really a simple matter to undo the bottom plate and ease the motor and gearbox up but you may have to dismantle and remove the connecting rods first. having done that the driving wheels need to come off the axle. simple as they are held in by a screw under the plastic cap in the centre of the wheel once undone the wheel slides off.
now comes the tricky bit, the valve gear! the simple answer is to clamp the valve gear together before you try sliding the whole off of the axle if you use a clamp it holds all of the eccentrics together and takes the guesswork out of reassembly, If you now pull the assembly up it will pull the axle bearings up also and these can be slid off of the axle and left to dangle whilst you remove /slide off the valve eccentrics. having removed both sets the just let them hang to either side and pull up the motor and gearbox.
You will now have take out the screws in the gearbox to allow the motor to come free. you will likely find that the gear is in two halves, mine was. the axle will come right out and the new gear can be pressed on.
This was very tight and I ended up using a vice to support the gear and tapping the axle through it. The rest is just the reverse of what you have done. It took me about 1 hour to get it apart and another hour to put it back. 
Good luck.





Note sent re little springs flying out! 



Conclusion – 





I must admit to being a bit tardy as I only got around to fitting the gear (bought in Jan- Feb) about 6 weeks ago, I was putting it off as I have had experiences in the past to know that often a loco does not go back together and work as well as it did before being taken apart.
Imagine my elation when after only about 1.5 hrs work it ran a treat! it has since done about 3.5 hrs running.
Thanks for the tips and thank Bachmann for a truly great loco. BUUUT Please use a better class of gear in the future. 





Kevin strong has an article re removing gear from axle in Garden Railways mag (in box on front of cupboard on deskside)





Just read your message on Bachmann, The loco I repaired was the 2-6-0 and there were no springs in that one, I doubt there are any in the 4-4-0 but just to be on the safe side don't rush taking it to bits take it slow and easy and any tiny screws stick them to a piece of sellotape just in case it takes you a while before you get back to it. 


Also if you are unsure take pictures of it at each stage of the dis-assembly with your camera or phone for reference.


as before let me know how you get on.






End of copies



Hope that the above will help - don't forget to copy the photos - it will take longer but the results are much better if each photo is opened first before copying - they are much better and larger than way.


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## Dansgscale (Jan 9, 2010)

I Just finished replacing the Axle drive gear on both a Bachmann 4-4-0 and 2-6-0 that were cracked and did what you described. In talking with Kevin and with NWSL, trying to find the right gear to use, since NWSL says to use the 24tooth gear, I went with the 25 toothed gears as that is what was in both of my engines. I purchased the Delrin gears and when they arrived I went about the task of replacing them Thanks to the tips from Kevin and looking at the photos Peter mentioned it was fairly easy to replace them. I did notice that the bore hole in the gears were smaller than the axle on my engines. I started out using a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the axle diameter and hand twisted it through the bore, then stepped up to the next size and kept checking the hole against the axle, when I finally got to the 1/4 bit the gear slipped on the the end part of the axle but would go no further. It was then that I took the gear and axle out to my garage and used my drill press to press the axle through the gear until it was centered. The Knurling on the axle cut nicely into the Delrin and locked the gear snugly in place. 

Both engines now have new gears and both run really nice even at low speeds. The 2-6-0 was just had a Old Modeltronics Sound Module and Air pump module added that were made for HO scale models in stalled with a 3" speaker and I have to say the steam chuff sound is on par with the Dallee ones I have heard. Next thing to do is add the remote Bell and whistle sounds that have been recorded onto a sound module and she will be ready for service. 

I found that changing out these gears was not difficult and rather instructional, since I got to know the inner workings of the locomotives. 

Dan S. 
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern 
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html


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