# treated lumber for pedistrian traffic on railway



## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hello. Did a quick search on this topic, nothing came up. Sure it has been asked before. I am reaching out the community to get some advice before I attempt to construct.

In the middle of building my first outdoor railroad. I have a 12' area where my tracks will be stepped on by pedestrians (just foot traffic). Cannot avoid people traffic (have kids, area is between bench and pond, new railroad will run thru this space, wife says kids are going to stay so have to find a work around). I have my main line and a passing siding in this area. Need about 14" of support for both tracks. 

My plan is to purchase four treated 1X8X12's. Two of the boards will be connected side to side (making a 1X16X12, can't locally purchase wood this size). The other two boards will be attached to these base boards (now have basically a 2x16x12). Before attaching these top boards, planning on cutting out the area for the tracks (the tracks will be recessed into the wood, 1" deep, basically the top boards will have missing sections where the track will be installed, when everything is connected together the track will be placed in these missing sections). This seams the easiest way to try to construct. Would be difficult to try to due this with only two 2X8X12 (would have to somehow carve out the wood). By using two 1" boards can cut out area for tracks using my saber saw.

Ok, this seams like a reasonable solution to my problem. What am I missing. Will also be including a recessed turn out. Using LGB standard brass track. Thinking about installing small strips of wood between rails to help protect rails from pressure sideways (kids get there shoes in grove and push laterally, not straight down). Have kids and dog, amazing amount of damage they can do. Will build a small building to cover the turn out (protect the points). Wood will be installed on the ground, clay soil. Sleepers will be attached to wood loosely to allow for expansion.

Any help greatly appreciated. Realize cementing tracking in the ground would be a stronger solution. This is my first outdoor railroad and while everything looks good on paper, expect some future changes will be required (i.e., I messed up).

Thank you for reading my post and if you have a better solution or comment on my idea I would appreciate your thoughts.


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I would think that even though it is pressure treated wood you might expect some warping and twisting when it is in contact with the ground, basically just on one side.
Good luck, and I always reckon that with new things, it's not until the third try that I get it right!
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

The pressure treated I've had with houses (not wood I worked for the purpose of an outdoor railway), has exhibited warping and swelling / opening of the grain. In addition, PT is treated with toxic chemicals, so I don't like working with it.

I'm concerned your piece will break apart, due to swelling from moisture above and below. Another option is to take a stack of 2 x 4's, drill them, and fasten them together with a length of all-thread and a nut and washer at each end. You can vary the hole placement to obtain the desired inset depth for the track. I expect this would be a stronger construction, and any surface warping should be limited to each 2" exposed face of a 2 x 4.

I agree with filling in between the rails, that should help reduce the trip hazard, too.


----------



## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

You may want to look at these: http://www.railclamp.com/#!/~/category/id=3572148&offset=0&sort=normal


----------



## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

When I started building my outdoor layout (still in progress), I, also, experienced warped and twisting boards using 2 x 6 inch PT wood as a road bed placed on clay ground. I replaced it with man made decking material (a plastic and cedar composite) which works OK. 

The stuff I used is 5 & 5/16 inch wide by 15/16 inch thick in 8, 12, or 16 foot lengths, and you can get it with a flat surface on both sides (some have ribs on the underside).

-Ted


----------



## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Read this thread:

http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/34818-getting-across-tracks.html


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want to use wood, then get a synthetic wood like trex, etc. No warping.

Greg


----------



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Agree, %100 synthetic "wood" is the best (e.g., PVC deck boards).
Next is probably composite boards, but some say the sawdust content messes up.
Next is ground-contact rated treated wood (4x4's & 6x6's).
Last is regular treated wood (1x, 2x) which is only supposed to be used above grade.

Just my opinion, I'm not a contractor.

Jeff, those are neat products, thanks for the post.

BLK, for the track grooves, do you own a router? Because with that, and some straight edges and creative clamping, you can buzz those things out in no time. But, your idea sounds good, as long as you overlap the joints well. I suppose with deck boards, they're already too thin to do otherwise.

Best luck, post pics!

===>Cliffy


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Are you going to run Track Power or Battery Power?


----------



## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

Well was all set to head to lowes and get my treated lumber. Had a nice plan with recessed tracks with a section of wood between tracks for added protection. Then I remembered I am using track power with brass LGB tracks. They need cleaned all the time and my plan was to keep everything less the truck wheels out of the tracks. No way to clean the tracks with my plan. Darn. Now back to square 1. Thinking only option is to make a removable cover to provide rail protection when not in use.with cover removed, track would be similar to rest of,project, set with ground ballast.


----------



## mikell (Apr 27, 2014)

Draw Bridge

Good excuse to build something extreme


----------



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

How long a distance are we talking?

JJ


----------



## Blk69 (Dec 6, 2009)

As with many things in life, actually track on the ground looks different then on paper. Turnout in a pedestrian area I felt was just asking for trouble. I am able to move my passing loop to an alternate (not as desirable) location. Now just having a single track, feel flanking with bricks the best option. Will add a pic of completed construction to this tread when done. Thank you for all your incite and suggestions.


----------

