# Building of A3 switcher in 1/32



## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

This is to follor the building of (hopfully a pair) of A3 switchers in 1/32 scale
i am currently cutting 1/4 inch disk for the wheels and will be posting photos shortly.
cutting 1.25 inch round steel by hand is a workout. if only i had a angle grinder... that will be next on list hello harbor freight


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds like a nice project! 
Are you using Kozo's plans scaled down?


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

i am attempting to. however i can not "scale "everything such as the running gear and some screws and material thickness atleast not perfectly so i am sure i will be making alot of mistakes while trying to get the proper messuments.
hopfully others can learn from it and we may see a run of little A3s steaming around.


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Awesome! 
I bought the "Building the Climax" book a while back hoping it would inspire me to take on a project in 1:20.3. I'm hoping to start off with a small saddle tank loco...so we might have some similarities down the road! One concession I've already committed to make is the boiler design. I'm much more likely to use a gas-fired type. Specifically an Accucraft"-style boiler (single fire tube within a boiler tube). Much simpler than the elaborate Kozo design with true firebox, water jacket, etc...


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

i think im going to keep the boiler as is for the most part since i dont want anohter gas loco. 

BTW still working on that first 1/4 inch thick 1.25 inch disk i am sore


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

You need to use that metal band saw in the TARR barn (its under the work bench and its pretty big (hefty looking) lol) 

 

Andrew


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

ha good idea. 
Anyways i cant find my new lathe tools so i kinda used this wheel as a practice and skipped a few of the detailing steps on the back side but all thats left on this one is the flange but i want to find my new tools first ( these have some chips in them and dont cut well) 

wish the lathe had autofeeds so i could get a better finish. or atleast if the dials were easier to turn... gonna take it apart and look it over prior to actualy starting anything that will go onto the loco. photos after i get this black goo off of me.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't forget to join the G1MRA or just download the wheel profiles - that will make your loco run-able on most 45mm gauge tracks. 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org 
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Andrew does that band saw even work ? 
if they will let me use it i will use it sunday to cut the rest of the wheels.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

made a jig to hold the wheel while i turned the flange. Jig didnt hold up to well as it came undone. first try at a wheel is a fail. not so much the jigs fault for that but the poor quality cutting tool from HF.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Used some round stock to make a 'ghetto' rocker post so i can adjust the tools a bit. starting work on the wheels again


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

This will be cool, I'll be watching too.







To get better photos, take a look at your camera for the macro button, on most cameras the button has a flower on it. This allows you to take close-ups and the camera will focus correctly. Adding some more light and using a tripod will help too.


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## GaryR (Feb 6, 2010)

Myself, and this is just me, I chuck a couple of inches of stock in the lathe and turn the out board face and flange. Then cut off with the band saw and chuck on the "tire" to turn the back or inboard side. The width of the tire being about 5/32". 
I have a 7x12 form MicroMark and get my carbide cutting bits from McMaster Carr. I've done about 30 wheels so far for my rolling stock and a speeder. 

My 2 cents 

GaryR


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

I like that idea but i dont have a band saw yet. 
i think i figured out a good way to worka bit faster on the wheels from what the book states. i am not going to care about the thickness untill i do the back of the wheel. i will just face it then when i turn it around worry about the thickness. This way i can take readings from the dials and beable to repeat everything without having to messure every ten seconds. 

I finished starting a few more wheels. The idea is i am going to make as many wheels as i can out of my 1 ft roundstock and how ever many sets of 8 i have that is how many locos i will attempt to build. its looking like i will be doing 3 or 4. 

As for the photos. its an iphone i dont think it has macro but will look next time.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

more photos soon. i have 6/8 tender wheels done and several have minor flaws from the nature of such a small lathe an the size of the tools ( tailstock does not hold anything well and causes deflection however i am learning how to counteract these "flaws" and have decided since the damage done has only been cosmetic i decided to use the part so eventualy i can look as see the progress i made as i learned. it will add to the character of the loco .


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

finaly started the axels


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Two of four done 




 I am still getting used to the"flaws" of a small lathe and learning to counter them such can be seen in some of the cosmetic aspects of the wheels,
the tailstock desperatly needs modification as the taper does not properly engage untill you begin drilling causing some wandering of the bit tip. also the size of the dials and faint marks are very hard to read. i think i till do a digital mod by taking cheep calipers and finding a way to mount them.

i am allowing .003 inch tolorances on these parts but ofcourse aiming for less.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking great, 

Can't wait to see a chassis put together (I know, I know - long way away). I bet you get better with each item that you make with your lathe. 
BTW, I installed an accucraft pop valve to my C-19, trying to get it to act properly, sometimes it doesn't want to shut (dumps over 40lbs of steam from 60lbs to 20lbs then shuts lol, sometimes it works perfectly (dumps 5lbs or less), doh) - its neat when it goes off though! 

Your still waaay ahead of me, I'm am in the process of designing my workbench for my garage.


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Well I am ordering material for the trucks soon. Depending on when it arrives I nay have something that can roll next steamup 
The axles are super easy to make I'm just worried since i used scrap instead of recommended metal that it may cause excess wear I think I used stainless steel 


The chuck does not hold anything well 
Making facing operations hard as the stock 
Slips back into 
The chuck


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Went to make the final axle and nearly broke the tool some how harden tool steel made it into 
The scrap pile I need to locate the rest of my stainless scrap


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

about to place this order once I get "approval" 
these are for a large portion of the trucks. 

1 each 

8954K305 Ultra-Machinable Brass (Alloy 360) 5/16" Thick, 3/8" Width, 1' Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning $9.94 each 9.94 

2 each 

8971K311 HI-Strength Bearing-Grade Bronze (Alloy 544) 1/4" Diameter, 1' Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning 6.60 each 6.60 

3 each 

8956K124 Formable Brass (Alloy 260) Strip, .032" Thick, 2" Width, 36" Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning 14.08 each 14.08 

4 each 

8956K127 Formable Brass (Alloy 260) Strip, .050" Thick, 2" Width, 36" Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning 20.81 each 20.81 

5 each 

8951K19 Ultra-Machinable Brass (Alloy 360) 5/32" Square Size, 6' Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning 10.48 each 10.48 

6 each 

8954K803 Ultra-Machinable Brass (Alloy 360) 3/16" Thick, 3/8" Width, 3' Length 

Your referenceLine references cannot contain credit card numbers. 
Monday morning 12.25 each 12.25


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

Made a few more parts.. Can't find my wheels now as I took them to a steamup to try them on the switch....grr 
I'm starting on the trucks now will post photos tonight 

Things I still need 
Boring tool and tool post on lathe 
Boring head for mill 
4 jaw chuck 
Parrellel bars


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

You are making a good start. Building an engine is a big project but well within your ability if you keep at it. I just finnished a 0-4-4T forney based on WW&F#9...see my "avatar". this is my first engine. I purchased cylinders and boiler fittings from Rroundhouse Engineering in the UK which did make life easier and did result in a nicely running engine. http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/


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## cjsrch (May 29, 2010)

have not had any updates due to working so much. 
sadly no progress has been made for three months or so... 
I left off on the axleboxes. still have not found the wheels >


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