# weight and track connections



## johnssleepingnow (Feb 27, 2010)

When I just run the engine #1 or engine #1 and #2 everything seems to be connected.
When I add #3 thru 6 passenger cars the engine stops at every connection but will start 
again and go to the next connection. I have tried the split rail connectors on my aristrocraft
brass and stanless steel track. Hot and frustrated.

Thank you all for your imput,

John


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## Chucks_Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Huh









Need more info such as engine types.
Type of power used.
How many feet of track.
Feeder wires..jow many and what gauge.
What type of passenger cars.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Try pulling each passenger car with engine #1 alone and see if the problem can betraced to a single car. It sounds to me like you have lighted cars and there is a short in one of them.

Chuck N


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sure need more info. 

The title is intriguing... could be that connections are electrically weak, and the extra load of lit passenger cars lets the voltage drop a lot. 

Hard to believe it would stop, but will wait for some answers. 

Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Wake up John:

If you ask a question and we try to help, please respond. We would like to help you, but you need to help us help you.

Chuck


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Im thinkin he sold all his trains and is now playing with Dolls.................. much easier hobby...........................were are you John


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

So? What'sa matter with dolls?

This is just a portion of my porcelain managerie.










Not only are they gorgeous, they don't eat much and they like trains, too!


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

It's only when you start collecting the blow-up kind that we'll really worry!







As to the problem at hand, punt track power and switch to batteries! (There, that was easy!)


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 17 Jul 2010 06:28 PM 

So? What'sa matter with dolls?

This is just a portion of my porcelain managerie.










Not only are they gorgeous, they don't eat much and they like trains, too!





I knew there was something strange about that semper dude the first day I met him.









I just couldn't put my finger on it.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe it would be a good idea not to put your finger on it John J.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By TonyWalsham on 17 Jul 2010 07:35 PM 
Maybe it would be a good idea not to put your finger on it John J. 

I think your right Tony


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By John J on 17 Jul 2010 07:44 PM 
Posted By TonyWalsham on 17 Jul 2010 07:35 PM 
Maybe it would be a good idea not to put your finger on it John J. 

I think your right Tony









I'm cornfuzed... when did we meet? I already asked the dollies and they don't indicate that you and I have ever met; and I am sure they would remember it.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I think that I have finally been able to figure out the code in your original and only post.

You have only one engine, not engine #1 and engine #2.


#1 refers to passenger car 1 and #2 refers to passenger car 2. Problems come when passenger cars 3 to 6 are added. I think that there is probably something wrong with car #3. The way I read your post was that engine #1 ran fine by itself and engine #2 likewise ran well by itself. Engine #2 and a passenger car also ran without problems. 


You still need to answer some of the questions in the first response if you really want some assistance.


Chuck


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

My advise stay away from the dude. He is nut so. Later RJD


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

RJD:

I'm afraid you are correct. I'm closing off this thread unless something positive happens.

Chuck


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey, we're all just milling around until the OP comes back to answer some of the queries so we can offer some more positive suggestions. 

As for "stay away from the dude"... well, why do you think I don't make to any of the gatherings?


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## johnssleepingnow (Feb 27, 2010)

Sorry guys I don't live on this site! I appreciate the couple of good guess you threw out there. Been busy doing other things this is just a HOBBY! I did discover by running each individual car behind the engine that they all worked. Only when I cranked up the MRC transformer to 100% the engine pullled every thing fine. I had been trying to run the transformer at about 70 to 80%. I just have the one hot connection to the track: no extra wires. 

Thank you, 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

John, I'm guessing you have USAT or similar lighted cars. Cars with incandescent bulbs have been known to draw an amp or so each. 

You might consider going to LEDs. 

On the "response time", there's a lot of helpful people here, and often we get posts for help, and if no one helps right away, another peeved post comes from the OP (original poster)... 

So, I guess we try to please, and sometimes we are frustrated with no response. 

In "normal" Internet forum etiquette, if you post a question, you should watch the forum over the next couple of days for a response. It's sort of "return courtesy". 

In any case, sounds like you are OK, but just have a high current draw. Strange that it "stopped at every connection". 

I (as many others) was intrigued by the situation, something did not make sense, so I was hoping to learn something myself. 

I hope this long-winded explanation puts the responses you saw in perspective. 

Regards, Greg


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## johnssleepingnow (Feb 27, 2010)

thanks Gregg, so its OK to run at 100% for hours? To be as specific as I can be the trains are MTH 70-2016 Texas Special. 
I have about 140 ft of track on the ground. Eventually the next 10 years or so I think it would be cool to run a train thru my oak tree from my storage shed to the rest of the running track. Kind of a redwood thing to scale. But I would need lots of patient help explaining how to connect with a "y" or switches, would I need an additional transformer, etc? I will try to be back Saturday. 

Thanks again. 


John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You did not specify the model, but I believe you have the MRC "Power G" unit. It is fan cooled, but that will probably be hard on it. It's a good product, but you probably want to look into reducing the load. 

It sounds like you have 5 lighted cars. 

The first thing I would do is verify the current draw of the individual cars on a single piece of test track, i.e. with an amp meter in series with one of the track power leads. 

I suggest this to make sure there is nothing else drawing power on your track. I would also then measure the current draw in a like manner on the layout running the train. 

5 cars could be an amp each, 5 amps, and then the locos (again assuming you have 2 of them) could draw up to around 4-5 amps too (would be good to give make, model and manufacturer of your locos, they vary). 

So, you could get to 10 amps pretty quickly. (you can get an inexpensive amp meter (combination) from Harbor Freight for about 5 bucks that will measure 10 amps) 

You might want to consider a larger power supply, if: 
1. there are no other current draws in the track ("semi shorts", etc.) 
2. you don't want to find a way to reduce the current draw 

If you were going up from 10 amps, a 15 amp supply from Aristo (ok quality, reasonable price) and a controller from them (15 amp) 
or 
A Bridgeworks power supply with throttle in it (great quality, expensive) in 15 amp or above. 

If your locos are MTH, there's an additional reason to go Bridgeworks, the MTH DCS system is sensitive to "noisy power" and seems to run better with heavily filtered DC supplies like the Bridgeworks.... note I am speaking if you are going to the MTH DCS remote control system, not just running on DC. 

Hope this helps, 

Greg


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Soooooooooooooooo Greg you didn't suggest the Meanwell????? That won't work as good with MTH????? Just Bridgeworks???? I finally got mine to work with the 10 amp Aristo Ultima through the TIU!! Regal


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By blueregal on 23 Jul 2010 01:04 PM 
Soooooooooooooooo Greg you didn't suggest the Meanwell????? That won't work as good with MTH????? Just Bridgeworks???? I finally got mine to work with the 10 amp Aristo Ultima through the TIU!! Regal 

Bridgewerks Rules Brothers as theres no equal....................


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Fridays i luv them..................


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## johnssleepingnow (Feb 27, 2010)

thanks 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I personally think that a quality switching supply SHOULD be fine with DCS, but from everything I have read, heard, and observed first hand, it can be very touchy, and require more care in wiring, etc. 

So, if someone is up over the 10 amp area, and has MTH, and needs a power supply and throttle, if cost was no object, I recommend Bridgeworks. 

If it was my layout, I'd probably get a Meanwell and an Aristo 15 amp throttle, but if it was a newcomer, it's probably better to go with a power supply that already has a power cord and no exposed terminals. 

Remember Ray Dunakin's bad experience, where he shocked himself (although no one can figure out why?) 

There's the basis for my recommendation in this particular situation. 

Regards, Greg


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