# Resistance Soldering for the Live Steam Hobby...



## clifforddward (Jan 2, 2008)

Decided to open a new thread for discussions about resistance soldering for our live steam building application.

For those who are curious about just what resistance soldering is or advantages for our live steam building application, there is a good description on the American Beauty web site:

Resistance Soldering: How it Works & What are the Benefits?

I'd be interested to hear from others using resistance soldering for building live steam locomotives...success stories, challenges, etc....let's hear! 

Best Regards,
Cliff


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

This is probably a subject for the Tools forum, but here goes. The subject has appeared before in a discussion about soldering rail joints.

I too solder this way and use a Graskop resistance soldering unit built in England by Dick Ganderton. It has a foot pedal for operation (essential) and different slots into which to plug the probes so that various levels of resistance can be attained. One probe has a alligator clip with a strong grip and the other accepts a variation in sizes of carbon tips. On the highest level, the unit seems to spot weld, but with practice, the correct level can be selected to keep heat low and for the solder being used to flow nicely. Two essentials to this easy and neat process is to have clean metal and plenty of flux. I found that the small diameter silver solder from jewelry maker suppliers works best when using this unit. 


For those who don't want to lay out the cash for a commercial resistance solderer, Vance Bass has plans for a unit that works quite well.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Cliff, 
Just wondering 'where' on our live steam locos, you expect to use resistance soldering. 
You can't use it for boilers and boiler parts. 
I guess you can use it for cabs and tenders, if they are made of brass. 
What were you thinking of? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Detail parts?


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## deltatrains (Nov 25, 2010)

At one of the meets a snowplow broke off one of my little live steamers and it was fixed by using a resistance soldering device. The paint was not scorched and the there were no unsightly blobs of solder to file away and I did not have to touch up any of the paint. So, as far as details, which are away from the boiler, this is a neat way to join two pieces of metal.
All the best.
Peter.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Peter, 
Agreed, but the loco could have been a sparky! 
I'm just wondering for which parts, peculiar to a live steam locomotive, resistance soldering works. 
We all know that resistance soldering works great. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

*Railroad Model Craftsman:*

Craftsman Tool Chest: 5 Mastering techniques for Resistance Soldering


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

I have one of these fancy units but rarely use it. I have difficulties adjusting power/time, so the solder melts nicely and does not overheat. In most cases I prefer torch soldering with Ruby fluid as flux. By the way: Carl, do you really use silver solder or only silver bearing solder? Some people try to solder their boilers with this stuff.
Regards


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Henner,
I get my solder from Contenti, a jewelry supplier somewhere in the northeast. They have silver solder in little flat clips (which I find useful for small low temperature joints), silver solder wire in small diameters, and silver solder paste. the wire and paste are offered in 3 melting temperatures and contain your choice of 56% to 75% silver. By the way, I find that the pastes make resistance soldering very easy with practically no mess to clean up. The paste is wonderful for very small repairs

I have only soldered two pot boilers and for them I used a torch and silver wire I purchsed at Diamondhead. I also use Contenti's Ultra Flux, which cleans up easily with water.

http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/solders.html


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 27 Oct 2012 04:48 PM 
Peter, 
Agreed, but the loco could have been a sparky! 
I'm just wondering for which parts, peculiar to a live steam locomotive, resistance soldering works. 
We all know that resistance soldering works great. 
All the best, ,David Leech, Delta, Canada 

Nipples
Cones
Brass and Copper Pipe
Steam Plumbing 
Copper to Stainless Pipe (super heater pipe, Accucraft)
Detail Parts
Fittings (assorted)
Chuffer
Gas Pipe to Jet Housing
Electrical Wiring and R/C 
Etc.

David, Does that help?


Boilers; seems like with enough power you could solder/braze a boiler and fittings, i.e. 3000W, 5000W, 10,000W, ? I think Dave Hottmann told me he built or bought something like a 10,000W unit and it worked fine building boilers That was about two maybe three years ago now.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Thanks Chris, 
I had no idea that it would work on things like that. 
I have a boiler to build in the future so I must look into getting one of these for that purpose. 
All the best, 
David


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Carl,
I did not know you can really silver solder with this unit. I'll give it a try. Thanks,


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## Alan Wright (Jan 9, 2008)

I would not be without my RSU having had one for many years. I was fortunate to see one advertised in a machine tool auction. It is a Luma Electric Company Model 551. It had little or no use and being a commercial unit I knew it was safe and would handle all my needs. They are still made and parts are available. I paid $110.00 for mine and I use it on a regular basis. 
Some examples of what I use it for are soldering up tenders, cabs and boiler cladding. Silver soldering handrail knobs on the inside of cladding, silver soldering details onto a model where too much of a heat spread would dislodge other parts. The beauty of them is the local intense heat that can be applied quickly to a small area. 
My track has turnouts, points, made of brass rail and strips of undrilled or etched printed circuit board that are bonded to suitable under ties and these are soldered with the RSU.

I would definitely NOT recommend even a heavy commercial unit for boiler making. I have not heard of anyone even attempting such a thing. That is one time when you need a spread of heat to ensure even silver soldering and to avoid building in stress. Stay with the tried and trusted method of torch and fire bricks.
The only thing to buy was a foot switch and some spare copper clad carbon rods or gouging rods as welders call them. 
Cheers 
Alan


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