# Here is my work Mik



## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

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Though I have not done much in the way of scratch building outdoors Mik, here is an example of my work using techniques from research and knowledge. I plan to carry what I have learned indoors to the outdoors. So you said to stand up for myself, fine, here it is as best as I can show. feel free to criticize!







that's right, this is my best work, and my work only getting better!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks pretty nice there, JJW.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

It looks great my friend! 

I think you'll find that some things don't translate well into the great outdoors. I'm still looking for a lot of detail stuff that went AWOL last summer after years of working just fine on the tabletop central. I also need to drill about 10 resin figures to re-attach their feet........ 


Today I spent 3 hours shifting dirt and rocks and it looked almost exactly the same when I was done as when I started (I was reducing a downgrade on a curve from about 4% to half that.... or about 1/2" difference)


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Well, at least I am aware of some of the problems, next step, tackling them. By the way, I'm not doing this to be a jack--- or a show off, to avoid confusion, but you did say you wanted me to share some work, and i will be happy to show more as time goes on. 
sincerely, JJWtrainman


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

JWW, 
Nice work, if you're agreeable I'll take some shots of an On3 mini-diarama I did about 15 years ago. Like you just to share indoor skills. I'd like to post them here to keep it relevant, if you agree, no biggee if you don't. It's your thread. 

The biggest shock to me, besides the 10' rule was how small the track curves really are. 10'D = 5'r =60". Using 1:24 as a middle ground, half of that =30"r in O scale (1:48) and half of O = 15"r in HO (aproximately). 
While I own an acre, there is also a house and driveway to contend with, 10'curves eat up real estate too quickly and the exhorbitant price eats the budget! Woe to the Empire builder! So I learned to compromise and compress. It had been years since I did a roundy layout, but that's how I started and it was fun to be a kid again! Wow! That's my train running on the ground! Then a couple of spurs inside added some more fun... until I tired of using the 0-5-0 big hook to turn my locos. 
So the reverse loop was purchased and laid on the ground and after turning a train once the cold reality seeped in... to turn again would require backing the train around it, the wye was purchased, but couldn't go where the R loop was laid out ... a tunnel bench in the way... I like where it ended up and has established the setting for The Total Wreck mine, a local abandoned mine of the 1900s. I live in Vail Az and John Vail owned The Total Wreck, I've not only researched the mine, I've been through it several times... not recommended. I do recomend tailing piles for great color rock. Host rock (overburden) stained by the ore next to it. All the color of real, without any profit! Dang! Another how do I make a small fortune with my trains? Start with a big one.... groan now. 

Details, I love 'em, but transporting a car under each elbow and one in each hand quickly removed details. I had to decide if they were worth replacing, fairly often, or omitting... yep if you can't see it at 10' don't bother.... Once my car and loco barn is finnished more details can return, provided I never have a wreck! Odds go down when my grand nephews are visiting... 

I apologise; I was thinking 'critique' and wrote criticising, my bad. 

Respectfully, 
John 
ps; Totalwrecker is my 'address' here, my name is John


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

john, 
I just realized that a more appropriate place to have put this, and maybe yours to, is in the indoor railroad section. i think I will start another one like this only in that section. 
JJWtrainman


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

"Feel free to criticize..." Ah! We _never _would do that! We might _critique_ a project, (let's use your fine work as an example: Very nicely done! It's a shame you don't do narrow gauge!







) but we would never criticize it! Besides, those of us that have shared our talent with all of us here on MLS should be encouraged and thanked for their contributions! We literally run the gamut from complete neophyte (i.e. "newbie") all the way to Master Modelers that have worked making miniatures for the movies! I am grateful for each and everyone! Thanks for sharing your talent and I'm looking forward to seeing more!


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Steve,
The reason i am using "criticize" instead of critique is because of a misunderstanding on another forum from a post that I put up. by the way, it was resolved







.
another thing though is that "critique" is a form of criticism, which is not negative, but rather constructive. so "criticize" is not completely out of context here, although i do understand the confusion, I too was confused until about a week ago.
--JJWtrainman 
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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Isn't criticism unsolicited opinion , and Critique a requested opinion by some one? 

JJ


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

what i said is just what my English teacher said, but even they are wrong sometimes. You could be right, but really, it's just one word that is close to what may be the right one. it's not worth any kind of argument.


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## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Soo Line Box car. I like weathered cars. Looks good to me. 


Outdoors, what type of paint are you using? Will it hold up in dirt, moisture and UV? Likewise on buildings. Building for outdoors structures takes a little different approach than indoors. You have to carefully select your materials. Are you planning to keep your rolling stock outdoors all of the time, sometime, or only when operating? Structures generally are out most of the time. 

Amtrak scene looks very nice. 

Outdoors I think the forces of nature will not permit that much detail. Squirrels and wind and rain may do a number on that signal bridge. Probably need something a little more sturdy. The details of the trackwork look real nice. Again the forces of nature will take over. WEEDS, Grass, leaves, dirt shifting. 

I don't want to discourage you, I just want you to be aware that what works indoors does not always work outdoors. I just spent a day reballasting from the ravages of winter weather. But I reminded myself that the big boys have to do that do. And I enjoyed myself. 

Tom P


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

well outside detail is fine imho 
-but youre absolutely right 

fine carefuul detail of any type and all your hard work, goes to **** in a hurry exposed to the elements 
doesnt stop me , but i dont leave this type of stuff out other than for the time im operating or showing off my stuff 

as for the work-i think it looks great too and 
youll have a very convincing outside rr with that quality of work 

what has happened to me, tho-is other than for my own amusement- 


the vast majority of my stuff, LGB and POLA, is straight from the box 
not because i dont see the difference or care 

but 
simply because i want less work and less maintenance- 
good operation and cleaning the ROW is enough 

easier to spif up something that doesnt have a finely weathered, paper thin coat of paint or india ink, decals etc, 
when using dish soap and a sponge/toothbrush during the season


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

Well, as far as paint goes, I don't know of anything else except water resistant oils that could be used out side, and as soon as my railroad is operating reliably, i will have to test out a couple of methods. i am also very glad to hear that I did a good job weathering, considering I am still pretty new to the hobby. Thanks Guys! 
--JJWtrainman


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

craft store acylics work pretty well outside... they fade in a very realistic manner too. Just in half the time.


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## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

JJWtrainman says_ I don't know of anything else except water resistant oils that could be used out side _

Actually there are many latex paints that do extremely well outdoors. Sears Weatherbeater paint is excellent. Those craft store acrylics usually also work well. But nothing is quite as permanent outdoors as indoors. Nature will indeed weather our rolling if you let it. 


One of the differences you may find between outdoor and indoor large scale is that you will find yourself spending as much time at Lowes as at the Hobby Shop. I now take pleasure in going to hardware and outdoor shops and looking around and seeing what could be useful. It takes a while to start thinking in terms of outdoor materials. But you will eventually make that transition. 

Some indoor skills do not especially translate well outdoors. Plaster, ground foam, lichen bushes, white glue cemented ballast, foam mountains generally don't work well outside for the long term. There are certainly exceptions. Dirt piles, rocks, ponds, moss, live plants do work well outdoors. Just stay tuned to the forum and keep asking as you transition. ENJOY.


Tom P


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

i use enamels, floquil, tamaya, humbrol, pactra acrylics, model master, and-tube acrylics straight from the tube, indai ink, chalks oversprayed with model master or krylon clear coat, and other stuff as well 
-they all work-i find enamels adhere the best, latex and acrylics have the greatest resistance -but also tend to soften fine detail when amply applied 

none really will hold up to the strong Colorado sun-nor will any "hold" to plastic -even when primed-for any length of time exposed to the elements 
-which is why i have kept many but not all of my models low maintenance plastic designed to outside-(at elast thats the story)


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