# Solar Lights for Buildings



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I hope this is the place to post this question. 

I've read previous posts that some have had success with lighting structures with the inexpensive solar lights purchsed at HD or Lowes. I picked up two Hampton Bay pathway lights; one was about $2 and the other $4 (brighter). I am trying to dismantle the $2 light with the idea of mounting the solar panel on the roof of a building and the light on the iniside roof. I'm having a heck of at time separating the solar panel from the casing...any ideas? I don't want to damage the solar cell while removing it.

What have others of you done?

I also purchased an inexpensive Malibu light set with 10 lights that have 4 watt bulbs...

What do you guys prefer??


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

If you buy the smaller white led ones, I just cut a hole in the top of the building or structure, and put the whole thing in there minus the lawn spike. If you look at my videos on Livestream and on you tube you may see them in the Bonner Mine building, and the other buildings I have on there. Works good for me, Eazy Peasey!!! No wiring taking apart, just cut a hole so fixture willl set down in it. 

http://www.livestream.com/crazytrainguyschannel/ 

http://www.youtube.com/7485jerry


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## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks for the links...that really helped me figure out what to do. And it's so much easier than the method I was going to employ.

I really appreciate it. Your model structures look very nice!

Richard


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Richard let me know if I can be of any help to you. Three of those structures are from Colo Model Structures. Good product nice guy to deal with, and competitive in pricing. Also Noel Wilson is my partner on "Livestream" He would also be one to help you he's a genius when it comes to electronics, animation, and lighting. Here's his link on livestream. 

http://livestream.com/noelw 

you tube 
YouTube - ‪noelw71's Channel‬‏


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Here's a link for LEDs "ready to use". Their Universal LEDs can be used directly from track power 9-25volt AC/DC. They work great and all I had to do is wire to the track. 

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I installed Malibu lights minus the black plastic top and place my houses over them. Wind no longer moves my buildings. 

Malibu wire is great as it is made for the outdoors and is weather and uv resistant. I even use it for track power.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I'm having a heck of at time separating the solar panel from the casing...any ideas? I don't want to damage the solar cell while removing it.



Not everyone would want to do it this way, but you might consider my meat-axe approach:












If the solar panel will fit into the desired opening - in this case the chimney of a house I made from a pair of birdfeeders that cost me $15 each at Lowe's last fall - I take the unit apart as far as possible, then step over to the bench grinder and gradually remove most of what's left. In the photos, the light still needs to lose some more plastic but the battery holder has come apart. I expect a piece of large shrink tubing can be used to hold the contacts to the ends of the battery. Some hot glue should then hold the battery against the underside of the roof and the LED can just hang. If the light isn't right I may want to splice in a bit of wire to allow the LED to hang further down.










It ain't pretty, but it's self-contained and cheap.

JackM


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## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Jack...that' really awesome. Thanks for the pictures. I found some square solar lights at Big Lots...not sure of the quality but they are not that expensive for a box of 8. The square panels seem easier to fabricate into something on the roof of building than the round. 

Richard


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

A follow-up to my June posting (refer back to my photo of the solar panel ground down to almost the minimum to hold it's shape.

It turned out that the absolute minimum was still a bit too big, so I kinda tore it apart - keeping the solar panel itself intact. I ended up soldering the battery contacts directly to the battery tips and the entire workings are simply hanging down from each solar panel. Here's a photo looking UP.











I don't see any real concern that the weight will be too much. If these oddballs should break their solder joint and drop, I'll just re-solder and hot glue them to the roof. As it stands, the LEDs light up both portions of the building nicely. 












Next project was the control stand for the 22 pneumatic track switches in the new yard. These copper-look panels look nice unless you notice that I've had a lifelong problem with parallel and perpendicular. I got a set of ten of these at Harbor Freight for $20-25 last year. A foot-long wire was spliced in to get the LEDs up to the switch panel for some back lighting. Beats fumbling around to find the right toggle.












A current project is this MofW unit. I got an undec stock car at ECLTSS (you know, York!) in spring. It's being fitted with plastic panels inside to keep the weather out. Since lighting would be logical, I cut this solar panel my son gave me (part of a set wasn't working) and cut the hole in the car. It'll be in the rear of the car so not all that visible.












The sides have been painted to match the car and, again, a wire has been spliced in to allow the LED to be placed on the interior ceiling.

These garden lights a really easy to work with and just cost a few bucks each. Batteries included.

JackM


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## grabriellemartin (Sep 22, 2011)

Thanks for those helpful links I also appreciate them all. I would like to familiarize myself better for those you've provided. Thanks for sharing. You're a great help.


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