# Reshaping Aristo[Craft Curved Stainless Steel Track



## inganeer (Nov 30, 2012)

New to G scale track and have questions about reshaping Aristo-Craft stainless steel curved track. I know the track is fish-plated to the plastic ties and can be reshaped by loosening the screws. Do you loosen the screw only on the inside of the curve? I assume the track tends to increase the radius when the screws are loosened and a track gauge is needed to hold the gauge; Is a track bending machine needed to make minor (less than 5 degree) changes? Any tips regarding whether the operation should be done on individual pieces or on assembled track with several pieces? Question may sound trivial, and I probably could experiment until i got it right, but this stuff is too expensive to waste. You old pros will probably think it's a piece of cake - so please tell me how you do it. Thanks and happy railroading.


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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

I have bent 300 ft of Aristro 8 ft SS "pipe" rail & a few pieces of Aristo 12.5 ft Diameter SS Track..... 

I would remove all bottom curved track screws..... before rebending..... 

You do need either the $125 (was $190) Aristo dual rail bender or the Train LI $325 dual track bender. Both will work, 
but you must file 4 bottom bolt heads at 45 degree angle on that Aristo bender. Use Flat hand file & file 2 minutes per head.... 
See Greg E notes on this Aristo Clearance issue..... 

The curved rail bottom plastic tie joiners are factory pre cut on outside rail.... Fine!! 

Lastly you need a 4" or 4.5" 90 Deg angle grinder from Harbor Freight (~$20) with a cut off wheel...... 

The Train LI "keep parallel" $40 clamp purchase will reduce grinding from 2 rail ends to 1 rail end..... 

Dennis M GBay, WI


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I've repurposed a circle of 8'D SS track, some straight and some nearly so for unkempt spurs. All by hand, I did use a couple of crescent wrenches (adjustable parallel jaws) to straighten the ends, the off set angle of the jaws gave me the torq I needed. Otherwise I just used my knee to lessen the bend. 
There was no springing of the rails when the screws were removed and I pulled off all the ties. I eyeballed for ga, matching the bends and slipped the ties back on. 2 curved sections together to form an S doesn't need cutting if straightened. Just adjust the rail ends to match. 

Happy Rails 

John


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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

More track rebend Info....... 

Bend each track segment individually.... The last 2 inches at both ends can not be bent by the dual track bender..... 

Bending a group of attached track segments.... Both destroys the Aristo Joiners and leads to an "uncontrolled coiled snake"..... 

It's best IF you only rebend only 2 track segments at a time using a pair of 4 bolt Split Jaw SS Track clamps temporarly...... 
This process for a Joint bend makes for nice looking continuous curves.... 

Two bolt SS Spit Jaw clamps should be used after a rail has been final bent and cut by the 90 Angle grinder..... 
Dennis M. GBay, WI


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've rebent some SS track to 9.5 foot... I think I started with 8 foot. 

I used the best dual track bender I could find, which is the Train-Li in my opinion (although there are some serious contenders now). 

Since the track was going larger, I left screws in the "inside rails" and let the outside ones float. 

I connected 2 sections with split jaw rail clamps, and bent them to shape. I made several of these "pairs". 

Then I joined 2 of these assemblies with clamps again. 

This allowed me to run the rail bender across the joints and I got nice curves on the ends of the rail sections. Now the outside rail was too long at the ends of the assembly, cut off the excess at the 2 ends that weren't bent. 

So I have nice smooth bends all along all the rails, out to the ends of the rails. 

Worked great for me. 

Greg


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## inganeer (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks for the advice. So, I need a rail bender and at leat two pieces can be bent at one time. Inganeer


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## inganeer (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks to all for the advice. Can't afford the rail bender, but sounds like I can manually reshape with care so long as I don't lose the gauge, properly grind the excess rail, securely reclamp the ends. The section gang in on the way out to the roadbed. Wish me luck. inganeer.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

To me whether I used a rail bender depended on the new use. I was making rural branch line low speed sidings. 
If I were making mainline iron I'd want the smooth curve and transitions that a bender can do. High speed operators, like Gregg E. (above) need the benders. 

If you are doing several sections, I'd stagger the rail joints as they change and only make one adapter section at the end of the changed section, unless switches or other track work need symetrical ends. 

I believe some rail clamps have lower profiles and the benders can clear them resulting in a smoother curve. 

Is there a club in your area? Many times clubs have benders that members can use. Plus you get to meet a lot of neato poeples! 

Happy Rails 

John


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

For cutting the rail ends after bending to square up I use a dremel with the good metal cutting disks. It's fast and easy just use a square to mark your two rails. Later RJD


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