# Water Tower



## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am researching ways too make a stone wall around the lower section of a round water tower. I have seen pictures of people using some sort of plaster that was applied to a wall and scribed then painted. can wall plaster be used out doors? 

I am thinking of using a 4inch PVC pipe and make a water tower similar to this. 








I do not think that 4 inch PVC will be large enough but I could use a couple paint cans would work. Feel free to give advice on what works and what does not.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Neat looking water tower. 
I wouldn't try plaster outdoors, I have used cement (CementAll) for outdoors. 
We've got a couple of Stone Masters and I think they use a product called Magic Sculpt or Sculppy or close to that, found at art supply stores. 
Look at irrigation pipe for larger diameters say 8" and thin wall construction. From the pic it looks like the tower is more than twice the train width. 

Of course we want pics as you go! 

John


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

I would recommend looking into Precision Products styrene sheets. They have many stone/brick patterns that would easily bend around the curves you are working with. The waterproof glue called Welder would allow you to glue it to almost any material you select for the tower.

Doc


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I thought of styrene but I really do not want perfect brick work and want too create my own brick or stone work. Styrene in 1:24 scale is not easy t get at my hobby store as I would have to wait weeks for it to come in. I will look into the sculpt putty. Would tile thin set work? I also have a small bucket of permacrete powder that you mix with water to bond concrete together that may work?


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Thinset and tile would work on PVC; another, better option that would be better and would make it more solid would be to purchase a post form (hollow cardboard tube from HD or Lowes); fill it with cement and aggregate and maybe rebar, although the latter would be overkill. The concrete would make an ideal surface to stick tile, stone, miniature bricks to with thinset. 

I built this using the concrete and form method (also built the table beside it and the patio they are on. The pedestal thingy weighs over 300 pounds. I use it to hold my coffee cup


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I use hydraulic cement sifted over styrofoam. This is extremely easy and clean. Watch for my article in an upcoming _Garden Railways Magazine_.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I was think more about spreading the tile thin set on the tube and letting it set for a few min then scribe the pattern in the thin set then when it dry's completely paint it. I to not really want too put tile or actual brick on it. I do love what you have done with the table though...nice job...


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

In describing what I've done, I forgot to mention that to scale it down, use oatmeal tubes. The cardboard can be stripped away when dry (or burned off if need be). 


The scribbing you mention would be interesting, assuming you use white PVC and not blue; post some photos later 

Oh, I've done that before too (the pattern in thinset, but I used mortar). 

later Dave


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Once I find out what diameter the water tower should be and the overall height should be I will get started. I think that I will try using the permicrete as it is a fine powder and should be durable out doors.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By NavyTech on 18 Aug 2010 11:45 AM 
Once I find out what diameter the water tower should be and the overall height should be I will get started. I think that I will try using the permicrete as it is a fine powder and should be durable out doors. I use DryLock Hydraulic Cement. This is a fine powder that makes a permanent waterproof filler/coating. The ramp in the photo (subject of the article) at the link was made this way as was the curved bridge in the upper left corner of the second link.

Hydraulic Cement RampHydraulic Cement Bridge


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

You can also use some waterproof epoxy putty like Milliput or Magic Sculpt. Those work great; easy to apply and bring in the desired forms and shapes. Rockhard and easy to paint when dry. 

I know here on MLS Denray uses Magic Sculp for his (superb) buildings; Check his watermill for instance: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/7/aft/114078/afv/topic/Default.aspx 

On my buildings I use Milliput White as well as Milliput Terracotta (a little bit more "rougher" surface look). Both are water resistant. 

Milliput: http://www.milliput.com/prod.htm 
Magic Sculp: http://www.magicsculp.com/ 

Paul


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Magic Sculpt is pretty pricey? 

I forgot to mention, if you are going to slather on thinset over PVC, I'd recommend first sanding the PVC to give it something to cling to. I'd still fill it with cement so it stays sturdy; styrofoam will blow away


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

First I dug out an old coffee can and cut some cedar strips down to 7 inch long. They are 3/4 X 1/8 inch. Then I decided instead of a typical frame under the water tank that I would have a work shed, so I cut some plywood down to 6 X 7 inch. The 1/2 inch square stock will be glued on the inside corners to re enforce the walls. 


The Quikcrete mixes in a nice thin base concrete and I will use to plaster on the outside walls to create a stone structure. I have never done this before so I am unsure how it will turn out, but nothing ventured nothing gained.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

methinks the can, letting it rust without anything on it would make a splendid watertower


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I am wrapping the can with cedar as most water towers were made of wood. I do not want anything too modern looking on my layout. I have started gluing things up and it is coming together nice. I am now thinking of roof ideas. Leaving it open as a rain collection type would be easy but I think having a roof would be much nicer Copper roof would look nice and blend with my Station. 

This project will not take as long as I originally thought so I will end up adding plenty of details too it.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

More progress today.

Here everything is being glued together. For the roof I took and old ice cream lid and drilled a whole in the centre and cut from the centre to the edge and created a dome shape then glued it together.

Later I will glue copper sheets too the plastic roof and add a decretive peek. (not sure how..)


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Interesting progress update! 
I'm always interested to new techniques so I'm very curious how your watertower will turn out. 

Magic Sculpt is pretty pricey? 
It is pricey perhaps (at least more pricey than plaster or Thinset I guess) but you can cover a lot of surface with it (it does not have to be a thick layer) and it just works so nice... ;-)


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The concrete went on really good and I let it dry for about 30 min before I began scribing it. Next time I think I would let it sit for an hour before scribing.


I also cut some planks for the roof to make it look like the tank is supported well.










You all can watch me build on skype just add me as a contact I am navytechgscale and should be easy too find.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

The copper roof is on and the deck was assembled and all glued. trim around the door is styrene strips heated up and bent then painted. 


frame work for the spout has started. Next will be deck rails and ladders along with a spout.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

Thanks for posting photos of progress. 

I'm glad the concrete part went well. How did you get the darker mortar lines in the scribbing? I normally get different colored lines by applying a different colored cement and then slathering on another coat of different colored cement and then scribbing. 

I'm guessing that you painted them in with a small brush? 

Dave V


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

I have not painted the concrete yet as I am waiting for it too dry. It is all the same colour just the shadow. I will get more done today as I plan t start the spout and door, guard rails and ladders


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Copper wire was used as strapping and simply twisted tight. I did not try and get it all straight as I want it too look old sort of falling apart.


I put hand rails on one corner and placed a copper pipe in where the spout would connect


I am using a tire air gauge as a spout and soldered an eye on the top and modified a finishing nail on the bottom end.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Using a tire gauge may sound strange but it is worth a try. It has the basic shape.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Here I added a couple ladders and lights. I am slowly adding detail as I figure out what it needs.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

As you can see the tire gauge worked out well. With the chains and counter weights it adds that last detail it needed.


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## Ross (Jul 19, 2009)

Pressure gauge for a water spout. That's lateral thinking!. Been trying a few ways myself to make one. 
Well done Navy.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Very nice work! Good idea using the gauge, looks fine! The counterweights are a nice detail. 

Just one question; are you gonna leave the window this way? I think it just can't compete with the rest of the building. 
Perhaps you could paint the "inside" of the window black instead of lightbrown. If you paint it in gloss black (or paint some gloss coat over the black) and the window styles matt (or use wood strips) you get the idea of, well, window glass in the window styles. The black will give an idea of the dark inside of the building. You will see it will be more realistic than the way it is now.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

a lot of guys will just show the nice finished project, but you showed us all the steps and a nice finished look with ingenuity. Bravo!


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

Thanks SE18 I am glad there are people getting something out of it. I try too get ideas from people and incorporate them some how. I have set up my web page in the same way. I also enjoy getting constructive criticism but find I get less of that these days.


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

I can't find much to criticize. Maybe rust compound for the copper wire; possibly the metal barrel; someone mentioned the small window. Otherwise, GTG


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think the copper will oxidize pretty quickly, you could make up a solution that would blacken it more quickly, I think egg yolks will do it. 

The metal barrel is chrome plated brass apparently, that will take paint, or stripping to bare brass and blackening. 

I think it came out quite well! 

Greg


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

to darken copper or brass, i use sulphur with water. 
apply with a paintbrush - wait -wash off. 
the longer one waits to wash it off, the darker it gets. first from light brown to dark brown, than to gun-darkblue.


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## NavyTech (Aug 2, 2008)

You can also use vinegar and water in order to speed up the weathering effect on copper


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow. That tire gauge fits the bill.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I like that tire gauge idea, very creative!


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