# Looking to build my first garden railroad



## propbreaker (Apr 25, 2010)

Hello Everyone!!!

I am new to the forum and am looking for recommendation on building my first garden railroad. I am in southern Michigan so snow will be a factor. The area we are looking to build this in is 40 foot deep and 180 foot wide on the back of my property. I am going to put a large shed outside of the garden for the Rolling stock and Engines to be stored in when not running also to house my control system.

This is what I am looking for input on.

Type of track that holds up better to the elements? ( stainless , Brass ,Aluminum, ETC.)


Digital control or remote control?

Any good book to get on preparing the ground to except the rail bed with layout help?

I already have a collection of rolling stock to engines Main manufacture of this stuff is ( Lionel , USA , Aristocraft , Bachman , K line , LGB ) I have been buying equipment when I get deals on it. I do a lot of Flea Markets in summer and Craigslist and have been buying the items when good deals come along.


So please I need some good pros and cons to my questions?

Also is there any clubs here in South Eastern Michigan?

Thanks
Matt


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt 
welcome, this will be a long thread. 
But for me, 
track power ,go SS track 
onboard RC/batt, brass is fine. 
Type of raodbed is almost more important than track. 
And How much $$$$$$ can you spend on track/ switches?. 
What size of trains and cars do you plan to run? 

Give more info so we can better help you. 
Think of your RR in sections so you don't get over whelmed and burned out at first.


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## propbreaker (Apr 25, 2010)

I will not be starting on it until July . I am receiving a large inheritance at that time. So money is not going to be an issue I do want to have switches, Bridges and so on. I do a lot of O gauge and am Also building a large ceiling layout in the house in O gauge. The cars are 1:29 scale and my longest car that I quickly could measure was was part of my Santa Fe War Bonyet Aristo Craft set and was about 34 inches long. So as I am figure large radius curves. I would like to run multiple trains at the same time like my indoor layout will as soon as it is completed. I am considering the ladder style. The least amount of heavy maintance will be the best do to the fact I am disable and do this as my body and friends and family can help me build it and work on it. Plus I have a young daughter who is in love with trains where we live she see the real thing running and see runs to the window to watch them go by. So as before that is why I am asking for the recommendation I was leaning more toward powered rail but have not ruled out battery powered yet . I have been trying to learn the pros and cons on that.


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## post oak and otter lake (Dec 27, 2007)

Welcome Matt 

I have brass [Aristo & LGB] and 5 stainless steel switches. I've not had any power issues that couldn't be fixed with my Aristo track cleaning car. My stainless has a few rust spots showing up after almost 1 1/2 unusual wet years in North Texas. I would recommend to get at least 10 ft diameter [5 ft radius] curves; larger if you can. I'm currently replacing my 4 ft radius with 5 ft. 
I rebuilt my rr last year on sections [3X8 & 4X8] similar to Richard Smith's Port Orford Coast RR. I raised it 32" above ground because of mobility issues. 

I recommend battery for multiple trains running. I have 2 battery locos and many more track powered. I am not a fan of DCC but many are. 

If you use track power and are on the ground use conduit to bury your wire in. Makes life easier. 

Roger 
Post Oak & Otter Lake RR 
Caddo Mills TX


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## propbreaker (Apr 25, 2010)

Thanks for the idea of conduit I forgot about that. I guess I should of listed that the garden is built up above the rest of the yard because the train will be running around the wife's koy ponds that are in it. but I still have plenty of room for the layout. I am still not sure on how I am going to power it but I still have time. I am thankful tho for all any ideas and suggestion, links, website to give me Ideas


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Welcome, 
I will recommend stainless because of it's ease to keep clean. As Roger noted chinese SS isn't pure, I too have rust spots and I have 2 - 10' diameter sections that are poor conductors. Both engines slow on those sections and then resume speed on the other side... where I can't use the screws I use rail clamps. 

Oh by the way, we'd rather confuse the new-comer than be confused by same, so we use diameter because it sounds so much bigger! Radius is for the smaller scales! 

I also like batteries as my power source for the ease of return loops and wyes, just throw the switch and go, no relays, solenoids, etc... to wire up or critters to disable. I use simple R/C. Built for young nephews in mind. 
Others will soon tell you of their favorites. Some will direct you to their home pages where most of your questions are already answered, in fair and balanced ways.... they are valuable and helpful. 
If you use a wheel chair an elevated RR might be the ticket and would make it easier to run a track in front of a window.... Some have built table tops and laid the ladders on that. You could adapt the 'Cookie Cutter' method to those table tops for elevations... 

Stay between the rails, 
John


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

Matt, whatever the design of the layout you end up with, go with a minumum of 8' radius or 16' diameter curves. 10' radius or 20' diameter is you have the room. You never know where the future will take you in this hobby, but the large curve will not only look good but will accomidate the larger engines if you desire one in coming years. 
Ron


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Best thing is that your not a "beginner" in trains. You know O gauge.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome Matt. There are pros and cons to what ever type of power and track types to use. Also types of road bed and ways to lay. Do some reading and searches here on the form as there has been many like you with these questions. Take your time and read read read. In the long run you have to make your decisions to what you want. You already have a layout in O scale so this should help you understand some of the things you lik or dislike. Remember its a hobby and have fun with it. Later RJD


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

I ran across a web site called "Family Garden Trains" when I first contemplated even trying this (I was new to trains, model trains, model trains outdoors, fixing small things, etc.) You might find the article on using recycled plastic (HDPE) lumber to construct roadbed interesting. I can't attest to it, as my little layout is on gravel, but if I had the room I would definitely consider it. Best in your endeavor!

http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

I see I've done something wrong just copying an URL! let's try typing it by hand and see what happens

http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Edited both links so they work, it seems that the URL doesn't use index.htm, that's all I did was remove the page ID.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Welcome to the world of large scale and this forum where you will find lots of answers to your questions from some very helpful people. If I was just getting "in" I would check out garden railways magazine, they have lots of articles geared towards beginers and lots of great photos of layouts and lots of ads which will give you an idea of what is offered in "G" and how much it costs. I would also pick up a copy of " How to design and build your garden railway" Lots of great ideas and photos in there. Just starting I would keep it simple and low cost maybe 100' of track with a few switches, electrified brass rail you can modify to battery later, use the broadest curves you can fit in your area and build the RR up off the ground so you can see it better, and maintain it easier. Start small but keep in mind expansion in the future. Most of all have fun. 
Todd


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## propbreaker (Apr 25, 2010)

Thanks for the new website link. I like the pages info. I did get a subscription to a garden railroad magazine but some of the ideas are some what vag I always prefer talking to people who actually have built something over just reading an article. Just so everyone Know I am not confine to wheel chair I broke my back 7 years ago I have nerve damage in my leg were I walk with a cane and have trouble moving around so I do not need to build it up higher for that kind of access I like the idea of 100 of track with switches maybe some bridges. to leave room to expand.


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## Bob in Kalamazoo (Apr 2, 2009)

Welcome,
I'm in southwest Michigan, Kalamazoo. I've had my garden railroad for about 5 or 6 years now, maybe longer, time gets away. I have all brass track and use DCC through the rails. It works great for me and I don't do much cleaning at all. I pull an Aristocraft track cleaner car around periodically and that takes care of my cleaning needs. Occasionally if I haven't run trains in a long time (like a month or more) I might have to walk around the layout pushing a drywall sanding pole with a Scotch bright pad on it. Easy to do and only takes a few minutes. Otherwise things work well for me. 

Bob


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Propbreaker, join us on Friday nites with several other garden railroaders and share with all the others or ask away on questions. Noel from California, and myself Jerry/Regal do a "live" show every friday nite from 7-9pm MST on the channel listed below or email us and we will help you or get you to someone who does know the answer to your questions. There is always a wealth of information every friday nite. You can view about 5 weeks back on previously recorded show by viewing the videos on demand there. Don't get annoyed by the commercials, if you are using Firefox, and download they're ad blocker plus from their ad ons, it eliminates the annoying commercials completely but only in Firefox. Regards Regal 

Crazy Train Guy's Garden Railroad Channel - live streaming video powered by Livestream

YouTube - 7485jerry's Channel 

Santa fe & Butthead Cove. R.R. - Mogulus Live Broadcast


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

And check out Greg's site at Greg Elmassian's train pages, especially the Beginner's FAQs.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

If you have not gotten any rail yet I'd urge you to check out code 250 rail, looks a lot nicer with the trains and being on an elevated line you would have no fears of anyone stepping on it. Mines on the ground and I've never had any problems for 15 years. SVRR sells code 250, even has dual gauge track and switches if you wanted to run some of your O stuff outside. 
http://www.svrronline.com/index.htm


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Great suggestion Jerry. I'm very happy with my code 250 Sunset Valley track.


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## propbreaker (Apr 25, 2010)

Thanks for the youtube show times I will try to tune in to it. I am going to check out the code 250 and the daul gauge track. I do love my O gauge stuff I have been around it since I was young and I got my wife into it see builds a lot of my building and scenery pieces. That is also the plan with the G gauge.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Get a piece of code 250 and a piece of Aristo/LGB/USa-they are code 332 and sit your train on each, after you see how they look it's a no brainer to pick 250. I got the link up on my post about SVRR now.


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By propbreaker on 26 Apr 2010 07:47 PM 
Thanks for the youtube show times I will try to tune in to it. I am going to check out the code 250 and the daul gauge track. I do love my O gauge stuff I have been around it since I was young and I got my wife into it see builds a lot of my building and scenery pieces. That is also the plan with the G gauge. 
Propbreaker, the you tube channel is different from our live show site!! Just wanted to clarify those two for you. You tube are uploaded videos on my you tube page, and the "live" site also has video of our last 6 "live" shows, join us on Friday nite here Crazy Train Guy's Garden Railroad Channel - live streaming video powered by Livestream


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Code 250 rail does look a lot better. I have all code 332 and if I was starting over I'd go code 250. 

We have a mix of brass and stainless track, running DCC, and on our layout it's very hard to see a difference. I think track cleaning difficulties vary a lot depending on where you live. On our layout, we just run a cleaning car around. There are many advantages to battery as well, it just did not make sense for the way we tend to run. 

Elevated is nice--even just an elevated section. The best thing I ever did, by far, was to build a storage shed with tracks rolling right out onto the line. We have a bunch of assembled trains in the shed and just roll them right out. Carrying a bunch of rolling stock back and forth in my experience is a pain and leads to damage. 

Curves--I think it depends what you want to run. We have some old LGB stuff that looks great on 4 foot curves. But most our stuff is mainline, standard gage in 1:29 and it looks really silly on 8 foot diameter curves.


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

Matt,
Everyone seems to have their own opinion on what type of track, etc. to use, so do a lot of reading and if you can find someone doing Garden Railroading in your area, go visit. There might be a club within driving distance you can also join. I have only one regret. When I started and I did not do this. I built my layout and a year later went around to others in the area to see what they were doing. If I had made the visits before building, I would have known right off that 6 foot curves were not big enough. 4 years later, I redid them and took them up to 10 & 12 foot. Live and learn....

For what it’s worth department, I’m very happy using Brass track. It’s 100% AristoCraft. I live in Northern Ohio and find that just pulling the Aristo rail cleaning car around the layout occasionally, maybe once per month, is enough to keep things running. This also might be dependent on what area of the country a person lives. At the time I started building, there was also a large price difference between Brass and SS. So much so, I did not even consider SS because of the extra cost. I think that price difference has decreased substantially now, so SS might be cost competitive with Brass, where before it was not. 

Have fun and try and make a visit to a few existing outdoor layouts if possible. 

Regards,
Mark


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Good idea Mark. There were none to visit here in the wilds of Nebraska when I got started except for one. He got hailed out a few years back and I bought most of his track/buildings. Now there are two layouts near me and a couple of more withing 65-150 miles.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Matt - Jerry has produced an excellent article in the latest issue of GR - well-worth reading if you can lay your paws on a copy. 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org


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