# Changing out couplers in the Kadee Remote Coupler



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Changing out couplers in the Kadee Remote Coupler


The new "remote control" couplers that came out on the market in the last year or so sure got my attention. My outdoor layout is designed for assembling and disassembling short- to medium-length consists in spite of the fact that I don't like bending down to manually uncouple cars. The "remotes" are just what the doctor ordered. Or are they? Here's my experience so far.

First I ordered a set from Phoenix. I have their sound boards in a couple of my engines, so I figured they'd make a good coupler, too. By "set" i mean one control board and two of their couplers. Just what I need for my yard switcher, a USAT S4. I was willing to overlook the fact that I didn't (don't) think their coupler looks as realistic as Kadees do. (Like many of us, my first experience with Kadee was back in my HO days.)

Perhaps I wasn't doing it right, but the Phoenix coupler didn't seem to mate right with the coupler on my Kadee #829 Coupler Gauge. Since all of my admittedly modest collection of rolling stock has been converted to Kadee #1 series couplers, this didn't seem acceptable. At this point, I believe Phoenix is still working on a #1 coupler. What I have are meant for G scale. So I ordered a Kadee control board and four of their #1 remote couplers. So you won't need to skip to the end, I'll let you know now that I'm very pleased with their couplers, although I'm using the Phoenix board, if only because I already opened the package.

But there's a problem that came up immediately with the Kadee remore coupler:it was hangin' way low on the S4. The USAT design makes installation bad enough. I had to "laminate" a big bunch of plastic pieces to hold up the rear of the coupler body to mount it in a realistic location. Once that was accomplished, I found that the coupler was sitting a good quarter inch too low, as compared to the coupler on the Kadee #829.

Since the remote #1 coupler comes in one "model" only, I started thinking of how this could be modified. If it was a standard Kadee, a swap could be done easily enough, so...it was time to open up the remote coupler and see about a swap.

Here's where I was at this point. Two Kadee couplers and one Phoenix board connected to my test track.










Just three teeeeny screws to take off the lid.









I had envisioned Kadee's "nano servo" being a bunch of impossibly small gears and...you should see the PCB in there! Now, that's SMALL! Fortunately the servo is contained in a plastic box, so only the Kadee springs will be jumping around.









I saw that the chain could be removed easily.



















Truth is, I had already emailed the Kadee folks to find out if they thought I could do what I was thinking. Sam Clarke gave me a really prompt return, suggesting the #1902 medium offset might help. Here's both couplers being held in this clamp's jaw. Sorry for the fuzzy

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jackM/KadeeRemoteCouplers/DSCN2008800.jpg

However, I'd have to enlarge the pivot hole. Sam also suggested I'd want to file a notch in the hole to....well, here's the difference between the 1902 mount and the #1 remote coupler mount.









The upsidedown V (or chevron) helps center the coupler.

Unfortunately, my camera couldn't take very good photos at a close enough distance. I found that the measurements I made with my digital caliper didn't help much - I'm not a machinist, carpenter, or anyone else who should own a caliper in the first place. Here's how I did what I did:

With my cheapo "model file set", I first used the triangular shaped file to notch the inside of the hole directly across from the actual coupler. Then I realized the square file would give a closer approximation of the chevron in the original coupler. I made only a small notch in the top of the 1902, enough to insure that a round drill would cut a hole only in the lower part of the 1902 and leave something in vaguely the shape of the chevron of the original.

With a small set of drill bits, I found that a 19/64 drill bit fit the circular part of the original coupler hole most comfortably. I simply held it between thumb & forefinger and twisted enough to enlarge the hole. If the bit is sharp, this is tough on the fingers, but it prevents careless drilling.

I tested it on the peg in the body of the Kadee box.









The peg is contoured to be a bit thicker at the bottom than the top. I carefully used the same drill bit to enlarge the appropriate part of the 1902 hole in my attempt to enlarge it to fit the peg. The 1902 has to sit so that the top of it is flush with the top of the peg. The best way to test is to install both springs and sneak the lid onto the box. The 1902 should center itself just like the original does. If you give the drill bit another twist or two, be sure to file off anything you left on the underside. Of course, a puff of graphite powder (Kadee sells their "Greas-em" dry graphite powder).is recommended to help the coupler center itself.

Being in the great NorthEast, I can't test my coupler on the layout yet, but it does seem to center itself pretty well. I tried to do the drilling and filing a bit less than was absolutly necessary at this point. I can always disassemble the box and touch it up if necessary. The nice part of all this is that if you're unsure you want to go drilling out couplers, all you're going to waste is five or six bucks for a pair of them.

Feel free to toss any questions my way. I might be able to get some better photos of the parts. My Nikon doesn't seem to want to get involved with close-ups.

JackM

Ted Doskaris I'm not.


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

sorry but how do I get the photos?


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

One other thing that doesn't work here, besides the photos, is the cancellation feature so I could have removed this. Because I know how to store photos here, I foolishly thought I could stuff them into the monologue. Then I thought I should be able to remove the post until I could.....

I'll give it some thought and see if I can do it by dropbox or something. (My photography isn't all that good anyway.

Sorry.

JackM


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

A picture is worth a thousand words. Unfortunately, English teachers don't agree.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Jack, I fixed your photo links. The best way to insert photos is to use the "insert image" box in the text editor. (It's the yellow one with the mountains and sun.) When you click on that, it brings up a pop-up window where you can paste the entire URL of the photo, such as: 

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jackM/KadeeRemoteCouplers/DSCN2019800.jpg

Click "insert" and the photo will show up in your text editor window.

Simply typing the URL of the photo as above makes it a clickable link to the photo, but will not display it in the post.

Later,

K


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Kevin -

I just woke up from a super-weird dream, put on the coffee, opened MLS, and quietly freaked when I saw my photos suddenly appear. Now, I have an old Lotto ticket; can you make that work for me, too??

I knew about the mountains. Now I will etch the URL into my desktop so I know how to next time. Thanks. Now I can go back to where I hope this thread is of some use to someone.

JackM


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, before you actuate the couplers, I would reset the servo arm to the 4 o'clock position to keep from stretching the wire rings that attach the chain. Better yet, remove the arm completely and actuate the coupler open and closed then reinstall the servo arm. If you do accidently stretch a ring, Sam will send you new ones, I know, I did it.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Jim - I just now checked the three other Kadees, including two still pristine in plastic containers and they're all set at the 4 o'clock position, as the installed one was. I don't really know why that one required the adjustment but it was hardly moving the coupler when I first got it working. Strange. Examining it now, I can't see any appreciable stretch in those fragile-looking rings.

Again, it might show up when in actual use. As it is, it's not yet really installed in the S4. That'll be tomorrow's project. Then I'll be playing with a box car like a kid under the Xmas tree.

One interesting thing I noticed, that may be a quirk from using the Phoenix board with Kadees: after I first turn on the power the coupler doesn't activate on the first press of F3 or F13. Press the func button a second time and it works perfectly for the rest of the session til I turn off the power. I can live with that.

JackM


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

I have noticed this "wake up" issue also. You might want to reprogram F13 to F1, makes it a little easier to toggle between the 2 couplers. But then I also turn off the triggering of the bell.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Excellent idea! Not that fond of the bell myself.

I also have to rewire the interior light of the switcher - it's on F3. Might be silly to have "the guys" turning their light on and off constantly.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Turn on the light when in uncouple mode would work for me!!


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Something else I forgot - pretty much anywhere you install the PCB you'll have to splice in about half a foot of wire (three-wire cable) on each coupler. Anyone know of a compatible jumper?

Also: the plug on that 3-wire cable isn't plainly marked as to direction. Find the side with two corners molded as a diagonal edge. Whether plugging in one coupler or two, BOTH will face the same way. The corners that are cut as diagonals will face AWAY from the 5-pin receptacle on the board. From my foolin' around with them, plugging in the wrong way won't cause any problem, it just won't work.

JackM


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I get servo extension cables from my local R/C hobby shop. You can usually find them in 6", 12" and 24" lengths. If you don't have a convenient local shop, try Tower Hobbies or Servo City online.

Later,

K


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

East Broad Top said:


> I get servo extension cables from my local R/C hobby shop. You can usually find them in 6", 12" and 24" lengths.


Ya mean there is such a thing???

I will be stopping by the local hobby shop tomorrow. I know one of the guys behind the counter in the R/C department. 

Thanks, Kevin!

JackM

This is why MLS exists


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I discovered another mistake in the (what started out to be a) "review" at the top. The drill bit I used wasn't a 19/64, it was a *13/64*.

To be on the safe side, find a bit that just fits inside the mounting hole of the original coupler. Using your fingers to hold the bit, enlarge the 1902 then test it and gradually enlarge the hole as necessary to allow smooth movement of the coupler.

Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

JackM


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Yet another addendum -

You probably want to do the chevron before enlarging the actual hole. Cutting the notch at the top first helps keep you from accidentally enlarging the top of the hole, leaving you with no material for the chevron. A 90 degree notch with a model "square" file, then flattening a bit on either side is all you need to get the "chevron effect".

JackM


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Here it is, a year later, a minor update and a major one.

Minor: I learned last summer that, contrary to what I said in post #8, that quirk about having to press the function an extra time at first use happens every time you have controlled a different locomotive (at least with an NCE system). If you have switched to a different loco, you're back to scratch when you return to operate the Phoenix/Kadee remote coupler. Not really a big deal in the overall scheme of things, I guess.

Major: I was modifying a Kadee 1902 to get a better match with the Kadee coupler gauge and checked my directions up there in the first posting in this thread to find what drill bit I needed.

19/64 is INCORRECT! It should say 13/64.

I suspect the larger size would render the 1902 or 902 useless. Please be sure you use a 13/64 bit.

JackM

I found a really good product to use for mounting the Kadee remote coupler nice and solid. I'll try to put up an update in the next week or two.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

In scrolling over the original posts I see that both of these issues have already been attended to. Well, at my age, I wish it would take a year for all that other stuff I forget: location of keys, which key goes with which car, why the house key doesn't work in any of the cars, etc.

jackm


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Jack,

Thank you for sharing experiences about the remote controlled Kadees. Good Info.

Maybe someday I will try it out. With close to 400 rolling stock & locos to fit with conventional Kadees (G type centersets), I am still busy retrofitting them all.

BTW, How is it you chose to use #1 Kadees rather than the G types? Presumably you like the small size thinking it was closer to scale?

-Ted


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Ted -

My reason for choosing to put #1 couplers in my rolling stock (not a tenth of what you have) would be considered more emotion than logic. For some reason, anytime I got close to a box car I was amazed that the coupler was actually quite small. How could such a little steel gizmo pull all those other boxcars behind it? Boxcar huge, coupler small.

The G types just look too big to me. Admittedly #1 scale is a bit undersize, but I figured it would be worth the effort messing with the smaller couplers, just to have them "look right" to me.

I guess it's as good a reason as any.

JackM


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Thank you Jack,

Yes, the Kadee "G" types, particularly the newer 900 series, look and are big for 1/29 scale.
I had considered the smaller #1 Kadees that on the other hand look a bit too small (I think intended for for 1/32 scale), but I chose the bigger ones as a compromise for operational performance with long, heavy trains on my outdoor layout with its loops and grades. 

What type of trains do you operate, and have you had any performance problems using #1 Kadees with them?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For the DCC users out there, I used a standard Kadee coupler and a servo and tied this to my Zimo decoder. I use my Zimo remote to control both the front and rear couplers and I even programmed in the 'waltz'. Zimo lets the decoder take over the uncoupling action by activating the uncoupler and backing up the engine and then pulling forward uncoupled automagically!!
Zimo large scale decoders have 4 servo connections and can control smoke fans and heaters also.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Ted -

If I had to guess, I'd expect that the larger G scale Kadees would be a better choice if I ran "long, heavy trains", etc. I think the longest train I've run is the six intermodal cars I have with five or six gons and boxcars. They're all on metal wheels, most carrying 1 lb. of BBs for better stability. All of my rolling stock is run of the mill A/C or USAT. Motive power is one each, S-4, GP-40, SD-45 and SD70. The pair of RDCs retain their original A/C couplers.

If I've had any problems at all with the #1s, it's been poor mountings (me) rather than the couplers themselves. As you'd guess, their smaller size makes them more susceptible to slipping up and out of each other if the track isn't properly graded. I had trouble the past couple of years with finding the right gravel locally. I didn't have enough time to repeatedly re-grade the trouble spots. But even then, the 1s did a good job, considering.

I think that, if you could wave a magic wand over your entire railroad empire and instantly turn your Gs into 1s (now that would be one seriously _magic _wand), you would have maybe a few minor issues. (I have to admit to being a big fan of the entire Kadee line. It's all very high quality stuff.) Whether the 1s are sturdy enough to pull a hundred cars - ?????

JackM


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Dan -

I don't know if the "waltz" is enough to make me run out and replace my NCE with a Zimo system ( pretty impressive though it might be), I think the waltz would be interesting in a test to see how level the track has to be in order for the Kadees to uncouple satisfactorily.

Do you have any idea how precise the leveling has to be for them to waltz properly? I've found that the Kadee remote control couplers are pretty fussy hoe flat the track is. It becomes difficult to uncouple if the back end cars want to pull downhill very much.

JackM


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

the waltz is in the decoder i think
body mount couplers is all Ted does so as long cars traverse our non-prototype grade transitions the #1 couplers will be a lot more problematic


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg is correct, the waltz is a decoder feature.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

*Update - an improved mounting method*

Time to update this project -


Having finally gotten my SD-45 running like it's supposed to, after two years of not being able to get it around my layout once under its own power (we won't discuss that here – it took a lot of chat here on MLS and finally resolved itself), I went back to installing a Kadee 11221 remote control coupler (#1 scale) onto the rear. The front (short hood) auto-cplr was done last year and works just fine, although I think it could use a bit of a “chain adjustment”.


The SD-45 is an Aristo-Craft product (collective “sigh”), so it came with the A/C coupler mounted on that “tower” which does seem to be pretty sturdy. This time I had a new tool in my toolbox. I had already shortened the column by removing the top, smaller part. This puts the 11221 box at about the right height to slip straight out the opening in the snow plow. 


Now, the bad news, although you probably already know what it is. The 11221 box is way too long to mount with less than half an inch sticking out. We have no choice in the matter, short of removing the first axle (motor, wheels, etc.). The best we can do is slide the 11221 into the plow up to the two screw sleeves that I usually refer to as the “ears” of the coupler box. In this position, the rear of the box barely misses the flanges of the first axle. 


First caveat – I don't know for sure if this position allows the truck allows sufficient room for the “brake” to avoid hitting the edge of the coupler box. Or even if the flange can miss striking the box depending on the vertical attitude of the truck. My experience so far: I mounted a 11221 on the front of the SD-45 and had no problems on my own layout (other than the non-related power problem mentioned in the first sentence). Thus, I am _presuming_ the rear will be the same. Your mileage may vary. My minimum diameter is 16 ft., or at least that's what I tell my friends.









2349800.jpg

Back to my new tool: I ran across JB Weld SteelStik a few weeks ago at the local Hobby & Craft store. Never knew this stuff existed. I was thinking about some way to get rid of the plastic strips thing discussed at the beginning of this thread as a mount for the 11221 box. Something like an epoxy, only not a liquid because I want to build a tower around that A/C tower. As I was thinking this, the skies opened up, bringing me SteelStik, an epoxy putty. It comes in a long gray roll. Slice off a hunk, knead it with your fingers for a minute or two until the two gray materials become one color. With this fairly firm putty, I formed a “box” around the A/C coupler tower, about as wide as the Kadee box. The more difficult dimension was the area forward and back.




I've gotten ahead of myself. You'll have to remove the end pieces of the engine's body – plow, stairs, railings, etc. But keep them handy because you'll need to constantly recheck your work to be sure nothing prevents these pieces from being reattached correctly. 











SteelStik sets in five minutes, cures in an hour – after which it can be drilled, filed, machined, etc. Not having any modeling clay to practice with, I went ahead and formed the SteelStik into a glob around the tower and attempted to flatten it out horizontally while frequently checking to make sure my glob wouldn't inter.....well it did. When I went back the next day and tried to put the body piece back I could see that the epoxy/putty was bulging out and needed some trimming. The cutting wheel in my Dremel was fairly quick in slicing off what needed to go. After a couple thin slices I got everything to fit back the way it should. I also had to sand a bit off the top to get it so the box would be level forward-backward and side-to-side. The Dremel cutting wheel did this job well, too. I tried a sanding drum first, but that clogged up in no time. (The cutting wheel is about 1-1/2 in. diameter and costs a few bucks each. Not those little $3-a-dozen discs that send nasty chunks flying thru space.)


A few days later I was in a local hardware store (not a home center, a real hardware store) and noticed two other brands of what appears to be the same thing as SteelStik, in much larger tubes. I had another use for this stuff since working on the SD-45: fixing a broken drapery rod hanger bracket. I definitely like this stuff.









Dscn2348800.jpg

Now that we have a podium for the box to rest on, we need a semi-permanent way to mount it. As was done at the other end of the SD-45, I cut a thin piece of aluminum the shape of the box (with ears). This piece is attached to the putty-encircled mounting tower. Because the aluminum piece is pretty thin, I was lucky to find a very small flathead wood screw that has a fairly shallow cone-shaped head. After drilling the mounting hole (I'll leave you to your own methods to find the point to drill – you don't want to know mine, but a blindfold is required). With any luck, the ears of your aluminum bracket will abut the front of the engine, preventing any movement. Next find the thru-hole in the 11221 box. Drill a hole thru the appropriate spot in the aluminum plate; the Kadee box will be held in place with a machine screw here. If you prefer, you could use the ears to secure the box to the plate.


Yes, I skipped a few things that are absolutely crucial, but hopefully you will read this whole thing before starting out on this journey. Ignore the white paper on the aluminum piece. It's a scrounged piece of tin (aluminum, tin, what's the difference?) and I'll be painting over it anyway.











You can't slip the 11221 box thru the hole, can you? You need to do some cosmetic surgery to your precious locomotive. Widen the hole on both edges to allow the servo crank, etc. to pass thru. Remove a small bit then test to see if it will fit thru. With the wire on one side and the chain and crank on the other, try to widen the hole evenly. You'll also want to make sure the chain can pull thru smoothly. Maybe there's a way to fit the 11221 without major surgery to the ends, but I can't see any. I guess we have to make a choice: rivet-counting correctness, or not having to twiddle a little stick to get two pieces of rolling stock to go their separate ways.

I'll leave you on your own as far as the bodywork you need to do to makes things fit. I don't seem to be able to measure things to a closer tolerance than half a thumbwidth. I can only point you in the right direction, presuming the right direction is really the right direction. And when it's all done you can probably paint the box, add a strip of plastic to cover any gaps you find embarrassing. (Nobody will notice – they'll be too much in awe of the magic uncoupling. “Try _this_ in HO!!”)










You may notice that the I'm still using the (1)902 coupler, as discussed at the beginning of this thread. It ends up (for me, at least) just a shade high compared to the Kadee gauge. If that proves to be a problem it won't be toooo big a deal to pull it all apart and insert a shim on top of the box.


Feel free to ask questions and/or point out errors, blatant or otherwise.


A brief discussion about chains will be forthcoming.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Anyone know why I can't edit? I hit the edit button on the bottom right and it gives me an empty, totally white, window like this Quick Reply window. If I do anything except close it out, it loses my entire posting.

Ask me how I know it loses my entire posting.

JackM


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

update your browser, flash player, clean your registry, etc.

http://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236&Itemid=270

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Yes.. given good track work .. the KD #1 coupler could pull a 100 car train..

I have tested to destruct both styles with help from KDR..also here on MLS.
The #1 broke at about 33-34 pounds of direct in line pull..
The larger G breaks at about 51 pounds...

This is stronger than anyone will ever be able to pull cars with.
Other testing I've done resulted in seeing averages of 3 #'s to pull 50 car trains at the couplers

Once I'm running here in AZ... I will be re-running all the tests I have ever run on model trains..looking for consistent numbers and any changes in results..

More in the future!!

Dirk


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They made the #1 couplers available in metal because the Arizona boys were breaking them. (heat plus tension)

Greg


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

*Kadee remote couplers - CHAINS*

- A Look at the Chains -​ 

Before I get to fixing broken chains and stuff like that, let's look at how the 11221 operates. Basically, the nanoservo causes the “crank” to rotate about 90 degrees, pulling then releasing the chain, which is attached to the coupler.


When mounted, the crank arm should be at about the four o'clock position as you face it from the side of the engine. Obviously you want to be certain the chain can move easily with no place to snag. The chain is attached to an arm on the coupler that can be adjusted simply by loosening the _very_ small screw that tightens the clamp. I've never removed that screw, if only because I doubt Lowe's or Home Depot will have a replacement for it. Loosen it just a bit, then, with a very small flat blade screwdriver, spread the clamp just enough to let you wiggle it to about a 90 degrees angle from the coupler.


From what I've seen, the Kadee folks seem to want the chain to first pull open the coupler “hook” before it begins to pull the entire coupler to the side. From my experience, however, that seems to be quite a trick to pull off. It may be that some graphite powder could be “poofed” toward that area to expedite that movement. Or not. (I dislike graphite powder because it always seems I get it everywhere but where I want it. But I use it because sometimes it's the exact right stuff to use.)


It should be noted that there are two additional elements between crank and coupler: two very tiny wires which connect the chain to the crank on one end and the coupler on the other. It's pretty obvious the chain is too small to be hooked directly to the crank or the coupler, so that must be the main purpose. But I can't help thinking this wire is a bit springy and possibly it helps soften the “yank” if the crank attempts to pull the chain further that the coupler will allow. Something of a shock absorber.


So we come to the repair portion of today's session. I suggest you arm yourself with two things you may or may not have in your toolbox:


 chain of a comparable size
 wire you can hardly see
 

Another trip to the local Hobby & Craft store. Note that I didn't say “train store”. It's possible, of course, but you need a place that sells doll houses, If you model 1:24, you're probably familiar with them. But we of the 1:29 bent go there most unwillingly.


A good h&c store should have chain in various sizes. Mine had a sort of blackend-bronze chain that matches the Kadee's very well. It seems to hold up as well as Kadee's, as well. The nice lady will cut you as much as you need. Get a foot or two, you might need it some day(s).


I got wire there on the same trip. This was on a peg board with various sizes. The card says “dark annealed Steel Wire”, 28 gauge x 50 ft (.41 mm x 15.2 m) for $7.99. That should be a lifetime supply for me. I've used this wire for the springy end pieces, although it's not really very springy. Haven't lost any yet.












You might be wondering why you'd need chain when you have wire to tie together the two pieces of existing chain.











(Notice I took these two photos thru my benchlight's magnifier? All these years, I never thought of it.)




In the above shot, I need to tighten up the two sides of wire, then cut them off and crimp further. Actually, the difficult part is stringing the rear half of the wire thru the snowplow so you can hold it long enough to slip the wire thru it. Use the wire like a fishhook to pull the wire thru. Be gentle. Like it's a dollhouse.

Oh yeah, why do you need chain? Remember those springy end pieces? You might be able to avoid this if you don't have trees dropping things, or breezes blowing junk onto your track, but I have lots of stuff, all year long. I've had a couple of the chains just disappear. I suspect a twig or leaf got between the chain and some body part, or a wheel, and the chain just got yanked out of both springy wires at once. Or the chain broke in the middle and only half is left. Or, unbeknownst to you, the servo crank got rotated and went into yank mode. Get out your skinniest long-nose pliers, or tweezers, and lots of patience.




Questions are welcome, of course.


JackM

Now I must remount the 11221 on my S4. It got a ton o' use last summer.


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