# Dirt buildup on wheels



## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I spent an hour or so scraping dirt off the wheels of my rolling stock. they seem to collect the crud from the rails It seems to be a mix of dirt and oil...probably some of our local clay. It is pretty tough stuff and can build up enough to give the car a distinct bump-bump or even change the wheel profile. 

I have never thought to clean my rails. should I? with what? 

Does anyone else have similar problems?

I use Bachmann metal wheel sets on most of my cars but some have old Gary Raymond wheels as well as home made brass wheels...doesnt seem to matter...they all have some buildup. Well not every single wheel but about half of them. some wheels are completely coated some just in one spot -- "bump bump"

I do run quite frequently and my Rubys do spit "some" oil the track doesnt seem more than a little dirty but it must be enough to build up sometimes.

Any suggestions?


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

I did some testing a few years ago to see what long term exposure does to rolling stock. I had a siding and set two car on it. One with plastic and the other with a mixture metal wheels. Just sitting there being exposed to the elements for a four month period over spring and summer, the wheels became pitted. Dirt consists of numerous chemicals and it is these chemicals that damage metal and plastic. When it rains or is windy, dirt gets spread over the rolling stock. Regards, Dennis.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Is your track at ground level? What kind of ballast are you using?

My track was all at waist height and I used Chicken Grit (washed, crushed Rose Granite) for ballast and never had a great buildup of solids on the wheels. My wheels (plastic on the rolling stock and metal on the Aster Mike) were often BLACK with a greasy muck, but it wiped off easily, usually on my hands, shirt and pants, especially if my shirt and pants were my best ones! A quick wipe of the track with a cloth (or accidentally with my Sunday best white shirt cuff) was enough to clean the track... But it was usually a bit oily again after a couple of runs and then a couple of days later the Black stuff was back. Actually, I very seldom tried to clean the track other than to brush off twigs and leaves (and the occasional Cicada shell and maybe a walnut or acorn shell left by a squirrel). I never had anthing that was sticky or lumpy appear on the wheels like you have described. I have been told the black was the plastic wheels wearing, but I noticed it even when I was running light (the engine only).


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a railroad that is on the ground running 'through the garden'. And yes you get dirt build up on the wheels that has to be scraped off. I then clean them with kerosene using a cotton swab or pipe cleaners or a clean rag. I run live steam so I don't clean the track that often. However, eventually I have to clean it. To keep from breaking my back doing it I use a simple kitchen sponge mop that you can buy at any grocery store and soak the sponge base with kerosene. It cleans the track right up and you can just wash the mop off with water. This spring, after applying the mop technique, I for the first time in years used an abrasive sponge pad you can get at the hardware store or Home Depot from the paint dept. to further clean and polish the rails. If you keep the rails pretty clean you will have minimal build up on the wheels. Kerosene is cheap and available at most hardward stores. You can use more exotic cleaners if you want. The kerosene trick was taught to me by some 'old timers' when I was in HO scale. On the sponge mops, the quality has deteriorated since they started making them in China. The glue comes undone when exposed to kerosene. I just wire them to the mop base and continue on. It really pissed me off when I discovered this cheapining of the product.


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## deltatrains (Nov 25, 2010)

*My layout is on dirt and gravel roadbed. I run Sparkie and Live Steam so cleanliness is a requirement. My track is code 332 brass (mixed brands). My favourite tool is one of those large scotch brite pads duct taped to a long gyproc (sheetrock) sanding poll (swivel head type) and another on a long swiffer pole which also has a swivel head. One unit has a no. 800 wet/dry emery cloth and other has the scotch brite pad. If the track is really dirty I use the no. 800 grit paper and then the scotch brite unit. I run around on my 300 ft of total track layout in about an hour. I do this more often if I run electric units and less for steam. My wheels are relatively clean and they do not bounce like you describe.* *So the bottom line is if you keep your track clean then your wheels will reguire less maintenance. All the Best, Peter.*


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. I have an open house today and my cars should behave nicely. we will see if I get more buildup. I will not clean the rails today but might in the near future!


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

* Grunge build up on metal wheels is just part of the live steam experience. You just have to know that it is happening each time you run and get used to it. Then, every so often...................clean track and wheels. I do like John F. does and it works fine. *


*Plastic wheels on rolling stock can be a real culprit. The plastic wears onto track and makes a mess. I ask folks not to run plastic wheels on my track.*


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

On wheels use a Dremel.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Use an arsenal brake clean product and scotch brite pad...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

you probably don't need an abrasive cleaner on the track, try a Swiffer with the wet pad, great degreaser... try it you will be surprised 

greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I also run sparkies and LS. Once I'm done running the LS then I go around the track and clean it with a damp swifter. Cleans up nice and then the rolling stock wheels also stay nice and clean after a pass or two. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

As a follow-on, one time I experimented, and ran the swiffer over and over until nothing else came up. Then I ran some trains, and the rails were dirty again... I inspected the wheels on the cars, which I knew to be dirty... they were getting cleaner and cleaner! The dirt was transferring to the rails, which had some of the swiffer liquid.

Bottom line, I cleaned my wheels by running trains! Wow, now that was a nice low effort way to do it, and the swiffer does not need "elbow grease", just glide it around the track.

One of my best recent discoveries.

Greg


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

What is a swiffer?


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## gwscheil (Aug 6, 2008)

Which wet Swiffer are you using? There are several different ones, including different liquids.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The swiffer that can take the dry or wet pads, NOT the one with the sprayer, then get the *wet *pads, the ones already wet, and use the swiffer brand, the "house brands" are very inferior, do not waste your money trying to save a couple of bucks. I know, I tried them all.



















The box you see on the right is the whole thing, it has a bunch of sections for the handle that snap together to form what you see at the left. The head is a flat piece of rubber/foam, and the wipes come in a big box. Don't be tempted to get the sprayer one and the separate liquids, more hassle and more money and less efficient on track...


Greg


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## deltatrains (Nov 25, 2010)

I never thought that when I mentioned using a swiffer pole in previous notes that it would get such a high profile endorsement in such a public forum and that I should have considered getting a commission from Proctor and Gamble. (chuckle) 
All the best to everyone out there and don't forget your aprons. (more chuckling)
Peter.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Just shows you can learn something new everyday. Great idea Greg. I plan to try it out.


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

Eric, 
I would suggest that you go to the source of the problem which is over-lubrication of our locomotives. Accucraft engines, from my own experience, are generally the worst offenders and seem to blow out all their steam oil within the first 5-10 minutes of a run. Where does it go? Well all over your engine and track. In most cases it is a very easy job to restrict the flow on a displacement lubricator, the restriction needs to be no larger than about a #80 drill. With saturated or semi saturated steam that's going to give you a lovely barely visible film of oil at the stack rather than the gobs of snot you are used to seeing. 
I have not cleaned my track in many years and if you run your finger along the rail you won't feel any oil and rolling stock wheels are clean and shiney. On Friday we had 7 different locos running for about 5 hours. 
David M-K 
Ottawa


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

David 
This is the first I have heard of the #80 drill being the ticket. I have been making adjustable lubricator valves for my trains which works fine but is a little harder than just drilling a jet hole. Using a standard copper syringe, what percentage of the syringe do you use for a 40 minute run. I have been adjusting mine to about 1/4 of a load which keeps everything lubed well but may still be too much but it does keep a nice film on the running gear. I also find that if you are not careful and overfill the lubricator, it will spurt out some junk when first starting out. On some of them the filler plug goes into the fluid and displaces it where it is now above the inlet tube.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I agree that the Rubies throw out way too much oil...tends to make them smoky, too, when that oil hits the hot heat shield in the smokebox! 

Re-working their lubicators is not so easy, though one could always fill them only part way. Making a new lubricator with a smaller hole is not all that difficult if you have the tools and equipment.


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## Dr Rivet (Jan 5, 2008)

Eric 

I am thinking putting one of the new Accucraft adjustable lubricators on my C-16. It is an early one that lubricates everything in the vicinity as it goes by. Cleaning the track is not so bad, but putting oil on other poeple's rolling stock is not always popular, especially if they have done a great weathering job on it. 

The oil on the track is not too bad unless there is water on the track as well; hen traction on the grades become problematic. I did not see anyone out with either Scotchbrites or rags cleaning the track during either of my Fall meets.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

There is a Dave Hottmann fix for the C16 which moves the inlet tube to the top of the tank but it is lost in the archives. If someone has it maybe they can post it here. I have just posted some side tank lubricators on my Quadruplex Build log wich are adjustable and would work on the C16 if you have the tools to make one or modify the C16 tank. If you use the Hottmann fix, I would suggest you also restrict it with a #80 drilled orficeas suggested by David


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Posted By GaugeOneLines on 24 Oct 2011 08:15 AM 
In most cases it is a very easy job to restrict the flow on a displacement lubricator, the restriction needs to be no larger than about a #80 drill.
David M-K 
Ottawa 
David,
I was recommended a #62 (0.038") hole by Dick and Alan when I modified the Accucraft Royal Hudson.
After an hour plus I still have oil left.
I would worry that a #80 might be too restrictive.
But since you guys must use it, I will exchange the lubricator with another one, and see what happens. 
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dr Rivet on 24 Oct 2011 09:14 AM 
Eric 

I am thinking putting one of the new Accucraft adjustable lubricators on my C-16. It is an early one that lubricates everything in the vicinity as it goes by. Cleaning the track is not so bad, but putting oil on other poeple's rolling stock is not always popular, especially if they have done a great weathering job on it. 

The oil on the track is not too bad unless there is water on the track as well; hen traction on the grades become problematic. I did not see anyone out with either Scotchbrites or rags cleaning the track during either of my Fall meets. 

Jim, I just removed the front brake shoes on mine to stop the oil getting on the track. It all just falls between the rails now. Mine uses the air tank as the oil tank.


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## GaugeOneLines (Feb 23, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 24 Oct 2011 06:33 PM 
Posted By GaugeOneLines on 24 Oct 2011 08:15 AM 
In most cases it is a very easy job to restrict the flow on a displacement lubricator, the restriction needs to be no larger than about a #80 drill.
David M-K 
Ottawa 
David,
I was recommended a #62 (0.038") hole by Dick and Alan when I modified the Accucraft Royal Hudson.
After an hour plus I still have oil left.
I would worry that a #80 might be too restrictive.
But since you guys must use it, I will exchange the lubricator with another one, and see what happens. 
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


Suck it and see David, if you find #80 too small then open up the hole a little with say a #72. It depends on the weight of steam oil you use of course but it is easier to open out a hole than making it smaller!!!
David M-K


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I think a #62 is about .038 and a #80 is .013 and the Accucraft hole is about .020. The first one I did on my Garratt dead leg was #60 (.040) and it was way too big. I put an adjustment valve in the line. Problem solved.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

O.K. I'll hae to see what I can do on the Ruby Lubricators! I am too cheap to buy a replacement but I could make a new one or perhaps add a valve to the old one.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

I will post a how to do it in a day or two on a different thread


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