# MRL SD45,supplement to Ted's review



## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

After seeing Ted's review on his latest release Aristo-Craft Montana Rail Link SD45 it got me to get my new one off the shelf and do something with it. I ended up doing a full battery RC conversion and detailing it like the prototype of the same road number. Here are a few observations on mine before I started the conversion. Ted had some problems with the motor blocks so I removed them and did some bench testing. Both of mine were quiet and ran well. They both started turning at between 1.5 and 1.75 volts with no load. There was a little wheel wobble but not bad. After that while running the motors I polished the wheel treads with some fine emery paper to get a little shine on them. During this process I did notice some pitting in the plating. Not real bad but I suppose it could cause some problems at some point with track power. The engineer and seat were floating around loose in the cab and a couple windows were loose but still in place. After making sure the motors were good I went ahead with the conversion. I will add some photos with comments.
The first photos are of the interior just before closing it up. The factory boards and most wiring were removed. I like to start over and rewire myself. This unit has a Airwire G3 decoder,Phoenix P8 and a TCS FL4 decoder for the ditch lights. Also a nice big battery compartment. My batteries are on plugs and in this case removable through the dynamic brake casting. The photo shows two batteries. Either one will fit. One is a 14.4v nimh and the other a 14.8 li-ion. All my replacement batteries are now Li-ion. The front and rear headlights have been replaced with 5mm leds ,ditch lights are 3mm. The board with red,yellow switches and jack are the main on/off,Phoenix volume and computer jack. Just to the front of that are two slide switches to isolate the Phoenix and FL4 during programing. The G3 has some duplication in CV's that could cause problems so it is a good idea to add the isolation switches.



























I'll just summarize on the exterior changes. I worked from some photos of the prototype MRL 356. I did modify the engineer and add a conductor. Added were a scratch built brass plow,new MU boxes,ditch light castings,speed cable and skate antenna from Ozark. Also new coupler reales levers. The foot steps were removed. Can't remember at what point but they were outlawed by the FRA. Thus the newer style release levers that could be reached from the steps. One of the biggest modifications was to the sideframes. They are now a more correct C2H flexicoil instead of the 3 brake cylinder C1 that comes on the stock loco. The classification lights were plugged. The couplers are Kadee 1789 number 1 scale. Here are some photos. Better than more words.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Nice work once again Paul!! Exciting to have it running and a 53 ft. plug door MRL box car to pull!! 

Thanks for taking time to outline your work also... 

Dirk


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Thanks Paul 
are the two resisters on the G3 for the led's and where did you hook up the FL4? do the ditch lights wig wag?
Thanks Richard


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Paul, 

As always,your work is absolutely superb. 

As to the wheels, I suspect they are made of sintered iron (not plated), hence, the intrinsic appearance of "pitting". When placing an ohm meter lead on either side of the tread surface (even after some cleaning) I noticed these wheels to be somewhat resistive compared to the previous production run plated wheels or Aristo's short lived stainless steel replacement wheels offering. 

-Ted


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard, 
The resistors coming off the G3 are for the headlights. I have found that connecting them at the terminal strip is the easiest. The FL4 input comes off the DCC output on the G3 just like the Phoenix. You can see the small FL4 circuit board to the far right in the first photo. I set the ditch lights to alternately flash for 10 seconds when the horn is blown, then come back solid. They are turned on/off with a function key. Those that have G3's are aware that they also have an output for ditch lights. However the way the software is setup they don't act like the prototype. They come on with the headlights. No option for independant control. I used rule 17 headlight dimming when the loco is at speed step 0, but with the G3 the ditch lights would stay on bright. Kind of defeats rule 17. Thus the FL4 for the ditch lights. 
Ted, 
You are most likely right. I didn't really pursue it ,just observed the wheel pitting. Not really a concern to me with battery power.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul,

Great report on your installation and awesome hhotos of your work!







Some of your close-up photos actually look like the real thing. Really hard to tell that it is a model.









Thanks for posting, I was anxiously awaiting this post after you told me what you were doing. Great work.


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

Thanks Paul 
I did know that the G3 had ditch lights but have not used them. did not know you could program the FL4 that way thanks i will have to give it a try i have 4 of them. I did not stop to think about it got the first to run sound. 
Richard


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a link to one of the prototype photos I used. I was a little afraid to post the photo itself in case it violates copyright.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/sh...?id=183386


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW, looks so real! Nice job!


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## tmejia (Jan 2, 2008)

That really looks nice








Is all the weathering done with powders?

Tommy








Rio Gracie


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## apo234 (Aug 14, 2013)

That is an amazing model now!


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice weathering job.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice Paul! Great install and pictures.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Tommy,
All the weathering was done with Bragdon powders. The Aristo MRL blue seemed a little dark so I used mostly colors that would just give it a kind of dusty look and lighten the paint. Most of the MRL units we have seen on the drive to Marty's are pretty clean. As I get older and lazier the airbrush gets far less work.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I just noticed a post by Jerry Barnes over on the old Aristo-Craft forum regarding plastic sunshades coming off or getting broke. I forgot to mention on my MRL unit and other locos that I don't even bother with plastic anymore just because they do tend to break. What I have been doing is fabricating them from .015 sheet brass and soldering a couple 1/32 brass rods to the underside for mounting pins. Works really well and will not break off.


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

Paul; 
Thanks for this additional thread of info. fantastic (real) lookin' engine  


"... been doing is fabricating them from .015 sheet brass and soldering a couple 1/32 brass rods to the underside for mounting p..." 

Great tip ! I also think there was a separate article about this or integrated as part of a -9 upgrade article in a GR issue from at least 4 yrs ago, might be able to find it in my GR mag 'lib.'


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## Santafe 2343 (Jan 2, 2008)

Not any of Aristo's SD-45's came with sun shades, Only GP-40's and Dash-9's had the plastic add on shades. But I really like your idea Paul, I think I am going start to make some for some of my SD-45's, just makes them look more complete[/b]


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