# New project approved, need some help/idea's



## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

I got the go ahead to build the extension from my basement to phase 1 of my layout (wife finally got tired of helping me carry out all the rolling stock, I knew it was only a matter of time







)
now all I have to do is figure out how to do it.

Here is a picture of what I want to connect, the basement window is to the left. 


 

I want to exit the basement window and follow the fence line and then connect to the outer curve at the far end of the layout.
I am going to use Axel's R7/R10 curved switch to join the extension to the layout, and I am thinking of using a type of elevated ladder roadbed for along the fence line.

What I need is help with the 2 ends. 

On the right end I would like to be able to lift up the section (hinged on one side, or completely removable if thats easier) so I can still use the gate, but that still keeps track power continuity.
I have seen something like that at ECLSTS but didn't think to ask how they did it at the time.

For the basement side I want to have the indoor section hung from the ceiling and be strong enough to hold the heaviest metal engines and their rolling stock.
I also need it to have a removable section so that I can open and close the basement window. My basement is unfinished and have open access to the ceiling.

I know that some of you guys have done the exact thing I am trying to do and would really appreciate it if you could share some pictures and your tips on how you did it.

Thanks, Ron


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Hillman clamps ( which now seem to be back in business) had a rail clamp for lift out sections or for draw bridges. I think there is a add for them in the lattest issue of Garden Railways Magazine.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

* http://hillmanrailclamps.3dcartstores.com/BRG-01-Lift-Bridge-Hinge-Assembly-1-EA_p_84.html*

Where is the basement window? Off camera in the picture?

I have used both Hillman and SJ lift out clamps, the Hillmans are better.

Hillman sometimes will offer nickle plated hardware, you want to contact them directly.

Regards, Greg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

My first thought is 'Boy that's a long way to back up a train' 

Do you run your trains in one direction? If so then the train would have to back up one way. I ran into this when I added a reverse loop with a single entrance point. To turn a train a second time Required a full back up move. My solution was to make the lead to the R. loop a wye, came off he main from both sides, My solution for you is the wye and a reverse loop in your basement. While this makes train life easier, construction gets harder. 
I'd split the track before the gate and run parallel tracks past it, with the near track curving to join the front of the layout and the rear to the backside. Because your track is elevated, I'd look into a swing out hinged section for the gateway. Run jumper wires underground for that section and you'll maintain continuity. 

Instead of a lift out section of track, I'd go with a drop down door cut to match the track profile, add a strip of foam weather stripping on the bottom to lock out wee critters. If you do go with a liftout section, then make that track responsible for basement power, so you don't run them from the basement to the ground.... 

John


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Hey Ron, 

Very nice layout. Here's some photos of how I crossed our walkway with a lifting bridge.
























































Ron you must electrify the bridge track if your using track power. I used a hi-tech Bungee Cord attached to the tree to keep the bridge open. I also have a sign on my Massoth controller reminding me to "CHECK BRIDGE". Had one loco take the plunge off the opening, luckily not much damage.


Good Luck,
Dan
P-Town & West Side RR


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Great pics of the lift up bridge! Thanks for posting those. Inspiring. 

Best, 
TJ


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

This is how we done our clubs outdoors portable layout module, the track powered side has wires to the bridge at the hinge. The tapered pins align the track both ways. Once set after we set up we go through the bridge probable 20-30 times, I can not remember a failure due to misalignment. The set screw in the collar is not used.
Dennis


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

You could build a Y where the track from the storage area enters the layout. That way the trains could run either direction. They could also exit from either direction. 

Is the gate just a people gate? No heavy equipment going through it? Then lay track on the ground just outside the arc of the gate swing. 

JJ


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 08 May 2011 09:37 AM 
*http://hillmanrailclamps.3dcartstor..._p_84.html*

Where is the basement window? Off camera in the picture?

I have used both Hillman and SJ lift out clamps, the Hillmans are better.

Hillman sometimes will offer nickle plated hardware, you want to contact them directly.

Regards, Greg 




Here are some pictures of the basement window and the inside, 
I am thinking of a single rail going out the window like the picture below.



 


 

And having it curve to run to the rear wall.


 

The using one of Axel's 3 way switches and have a 3 track elevated rail yard in the rear of the basement, with each track section about 25 feet in length.


 


Now all I have to do is figure out how best to do it, it has to be strong enough to hold the weight of 3 25 ft consists.

I would appreciate all of your expertise.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Awesome bridges Dennis and Dan those look first class for sure.

I see you both used a wired hinge similar to the one Greg linked to maintain power on the hinged end, how do you bridge the gap and maintain power on the non hinged side?

Ron


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Dennis, 

I like the tapered metal pins for alignment. The block of composite decking, in my last photo, aligns the track when the bridge comes down. It does get a little tight when the redwood bridge swells in the winter, I just push a little harder. Metal pins may be in its future. 

Thanks, 
Dan 
P-Town & West Side RR


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Ron, 

The power is supplied off the main buss to both sides of the Bridge. 

Dan P-Town & West Side RR


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 08 May 2011 09:55 AM 
My first thought is 'Boy that's a long way to back up a train' 

Do you run your trains in one direction? If so then the train would have to back up one way. I ran into this when I added a reverse loop with a single entrance point. To turn a train a second time Required a full back up move. My solution was to make the lead to the R. loop a wye, came off he main from both sides, My solution for you is the wye and a reverse loop in your basement. While this makes train life easier, construction gets harder. 
I'd split the track before the gate and run parallel tracks past it, with the near track curving to join the front of the layout and the rear to the backside. Because your track is elevated, I'd look into a swing out hinged section for the gateway. Run jumper wires underground for that section and you'll maintain continuity. 

Instead of a lift out section of track, I'd go with a drop down door cut to match the track profile, add a strip of foam weather stripping on the bottom to lock out wee critters. If you do go with a liftout section, then make that track responsible for basement power, so you don't run them from the basement to the ground.... 

John Thats a lot of information to think over and some great tips as well. 

I am planing to install a reversing loop around the shed as part of phase two, so for now I will use a helper engine to "pull" the consist back into the house. 
While not perfect right now it will still be a lot better than carrying out the cars by hand. Plus I don't want to get carried away and loose the bosses approval









As for the basement window I'd like to keep it intact and just remove the track section and close the window when not running trains. 

Ron


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By ddevoto on 08 May 2011 09:24 PM 
Ron, 

The power is supplied off the main buss to both sides of the Bridge. 

Dan P-Town & West Side RR 

Is yours a circle as well? Dans is so bridging the gap electrically is not a problem, my basement side terminates there so I have to transfer power from the layout side. One suggestion was to run wires underground to bridge the gap.

But I seem to recall some clamps that stayed on the lifted track end and when the track was placed down they completed the circuit to the other side. I think they are hilamans

I went to their site that Greg linked but their pictures aren't working so I cant be sure.

Ron


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Ron, Make it simple. A lift bridge is a simple concept, just make the pivot point above the hinge point. In the basement use threaded rod to suspend either a 2X4 or L-angle steel with holes in it (Home Depot) to support your track. The threaded rod lets you adjust height easily. Make the track section ,through the window, removable. Just slide the rail clamps to the side and remove one section. 

Dan 
P-Town & West Side RR


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Ron, 

Yes, it's part of a loop, run wires under ground to complete connectivity. Don't rely on A "touchdown" connection, HARDWIRE only. 

Dan 
P-Town & West Side RR


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

One I would add is instead of removing the section from the window. Why not swing the bridge inside on a hinge. Then you wont have worry about fumbling around with a section of track.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

One of the guys gave me a link to Ted Doskaris's feature on how he built his suspended basement layout and that's exactly what I was looking for.

So I have a good plan for the indoor section and the bridge part by the gate, no all I need to decide is how to elevate the track going from the basement to the layout.

I know that there are 2 main method's of building this section, the PVC Ladder method, or the pressure treated wood method.

What I'd like to know is how deep do you guys like to dig the holes for the posts and do you cement them in using the wet or dry method.

Thanks again for all the great tips is really helping out a ton.

Ron


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

here's the lift out clamps to transfer power:




















If you cannot get any pictures, I think you need to load Adobe flash... remember it's browser dependent, so you need to install for IE and/or install for Firefox.

greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I use the lift out clamps and they work quite well for my lift out section. I span a 4 ft section. Later RJD


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Posted By BodsRailRoad on 08 May 2011 11:12 PM 
One of the guys gave me a link to Ted Doskaris's feature on how he built his suspended basement layout and that's exactly what I was looking for.

So I have a good plan for the indoor section and the bridge part by the gate, no all I need to decide is how to elevate the track going from the basement to the layout.

I know that there are 2 main method's of building this section, the PVC Ladder method, or the pressure treated wood method.

What I'd like to know is how deep do you guys like to dig the holes for the posts and do you cement them in using the wet or dry method.

Thanks again for all the great tips is really helping out a ton.

Ron


I would say that the PVC ladder is more durable. The pressure trated wood will eventually rot. Plus the white color would match the fence.

How deep? A contractor will tell you to go below the frost line and then pour some concrete. Easiest way is dig the hole, pour bag of concrete in and then water, mix it up, put the post in and your done. 

However, I think this is a little extreme. Even though it is different to what I did, I would suggest a 2" PVS pipe set in the ground. I dont think it needs to be cemented. Put it in about 24" in the ground. Then leave it so its about 6" below your ladder height. Then put a small pip inside the 2" (you might need to use a reducing coupling) Then screw the smaller pipe to the larger one. The smaller pipe can then be adjusted for heave if you have any.


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By jake3404 on 09 May 2011 10:40 AM 
I would say that the PVC ladder is more durable. The pressure trated wood will eventually rot. Plus the white color would match the fence.

How deep? A contractor will tell you to go below the frost line and then pour some concrete. Easiest way is dig the hole, pour bag of concrete in and then water, mix it up, put the post in and your done. 

However, I think this is a little extreme. Even though it is different to what I did, I would suggest a 2" PVS pipe set in the ground. I dont think it needs to be cemented. Put it in about 24" in the ground. Then leave it so its about 6" below your ladder height. Then put a small pip inside the 2" (you might need to use a reducing coupling) Then screw the smaller pipe to the larger one. The smaller pipe can then be adjusted for heave if you have any. 
That's a great tip Jake I'll be sure to make use of it. 

I think for now I am going to use 2 lift out sections for the gate area and the window. For the gate area I'll since it's longer I'll add a support leg in the center of it.

The window area will only be a 1 foot section so I will just have an extra long lip on the inner and outer roadbed for it to sit on.

Well I think I'm good to go now, so it's on to the build, I'll post some pics as I progress.
Thanks again, Ron


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09 May 2011 12:01 AM 
here's the lift out clamps to transfer power:




















If you cannot get any pictures, I think you need to load Adobe flash... remember it's browser dependent, so you need to install for IE and/or install for Firefox.

greg 



This is exactly what I have been looking for, does anyone know if ordering from Hillmans is OK these days?


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Ron, 

How about an update on your project. How well is it working?


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## BodsRailRoad (Jul 26, 2008)

Posted By ddevoto on 14 Nov 2011 01:49 PM 
Ron, 

How about an update on your project. How well is it working? Everything is working perfectly, I haven't had any problems whatsoever.

I must say that it is one of the best things I have done so far. It used to be a long drawn out process just to run trains when I felt like it.
It would easily take over an hour and half to get things ready for action and then another hour and a half to put everything away
(not to mention the sore legs the next day from walking up and down the basement stairs doing it)

It now takes me about 10 minutes to have 4 fully loaded consists out and running on the layout and then just another 10 minutes or so to put everything away.
It takes even less time if the bridge is already connected to the layout which I leave out if I plan on running multiple days in a row.

I don't know if you have seen the finished product if not here is the link to the post. Basement Railyard project Completed

Ron


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