# NPC #21 Live Steam Builder's Log - Con'd



## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Continuing the Builder's Log now in the archives *here*.

Today is an appropriate day for an update since it was one year ago today that I bought my CNC milling machine and started this project. 

I've been putting off installing the air pump for several reasons.  One, I was looking for an appropriate casting in both style and size.  Second, I was still agonizing over how the damn thing was connected.  Third, I knew what a tedious PITA making up all the pipes would be. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sick.gif

I picked up a few pumps from Trackside Details a little while back.  The most promising was their TD-9X (which was actually the first pump I bought).  I wasn't real thrilled with it due to the (imho) poor quality of the casting.  After receiving the others (TD-190, 191, and 192), while the castings were better quality, the size and/or style was all wrong.  I also got a Bachmann pump off their 4-4-0 from TOC (thanks Dave), but ultimately wasn't real happy with it either.

On a whim, I ordered another TD-9X.  This one was far better in quality - the first one must have been a fluke.  With the pump settled upon, it was time to modify it.

Here's the original casting...










While the second one was a lot smoother and cleaner, the center section between the cylinder and compressor was still filled with... well, I'm not sure what to call it.  The first step was to mill out the center section.  I also drilled a hole up through the bottom for a simulated connecting rod made from 1/16" piano wire which I shined up.  While I was at it, I cut the governor off the TD-190 air pump, drilled it for 0.06 brass wire, and silver soldered it to the 9X, and started fabbing the air line.  I then made an H-bracket to mount it.



















As I said, I've agonized over how this thing was hooked up for many months now.  I've gathered opinions from many people, including David Fletcher.  The problem is the lack of clear photos, so much is left to educated guesswork.  The steam input line and the exhaust were the problem.  In the following photo, which I'll call Figure 1...








 


it would make sense to assume that the exhaust would be the pipe running into the smokebox.  After long study, I came to the conclusion that such was not the case.  The pipe coming from the smokebox goes through a glove valve, then some sort of large hex-shaped union, and then appears to go into an elbow and head north.  This shows even more clearly in this photo, which I'll call Figure 2...










The exhaust seems to head down behind the air line, but deep shadows make it unclear where it actually ends (see (3) in Figure 1).  This last photo finally convinced me with reference to the exhaust line...










The cloud of steam right near the center of the air pump leads me to believe it ends here.  Consequently, that's where I chose to end mine, as shown here...











On to the steam supply line where similar problems are faced due to a lack of good photos and information.  Figures 1 and 2 were my only real sources of info here.  Referring to Figure 1, the shadow under the handrail (2) made it appear to me that the steam line ran above it, probably to the cab.  However, even more careful scrutiny exposed the little bit of light just to the right of the handrail stanchion (1).  Could it come from the globe valve on the rear of the weird steam collection cylinder atop the boiler?  I can also see what might be part of an elbow on the bottom of the globe valve.

I had as a reference this drawing from *Those Amazing Cab Forwards*...










This drawing originally convinced me that the globe valve ran back down into the boiler, though I had no idea why or what purpose it would serve.  Ultimately, I decided this drawing is probably wrong (like so much info about this loco).  If you look closely at the thing inside the cylinder the globe valve is connected to, it looks just like the steam collector connected to the throttle.  I concluded that the water probably didn't get up that high, and that both were most likely steam collectors, which left the lower one free to supply the air pump.  While it meant I'd have to change what I'd already done, I decided to connect the air pump steam supply line to this globe valve.

Figures 1 and 2 ultimately led me to conclude that the steam supply line comes off the cylinder globe valve, runs aft horizontally above the handrail, then down on the left side of the pump, through a tee, then aft through a second globe valve and into the smoke box.  I'm not sure why it's connected to the smokebox, but after months of staring at these photos, it' the only thing that seems to fit what I see.

Here are the completed pump and steam supply line...










and the two fit together...










and here they are mounted to the boiler...



















The air line runs back to the end of the running board, through a connector, and into a hose...










which in turn runs through another connector and into the large air tank on the tender...










Finally, on the 1-year anniversary of this project, I thought it would be fun to take a couple comparison photos from the same camera angle as my primary prototype photo. 

*The prototype...
*









*The Model...



















*Still more things to do before she's ready for paint, but she's getting real close!!!


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## Bob Starr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight!
That is some real fine work you have done there!  Bet you feel like you have learned a lot in this year.  My hat is off to ya.  Btw, are you going to make the change to the stack?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Bob. Yes, I've certainly learned a lot this year. hehehe 

The stack is one of those things still left to do. I'm not going to change what's already there, but I am going to turn an insert for the top. All of the later photos show it already removed, but I kinda like the look of it.  Figure 2 must be an intermediate transition period. The spark arrestor is already gone and the whistle has been moved, but the headlight hasn't yet been raised up and there's no sand dome.


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, 

Beautiful work on the air pump. And a fantastic job on the photography for a sise-by-side comparison with the prototype! 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight 
I found this resource for me to better understand the design and operations of your locomotive very informative (given I do not have the book, Amazing Cab Forwards): 
http://www.ironhorse129.com/Projects/Engines/NPC_21/no_21_backhead_detail.htm


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Alan. 

Charles - thanks for the link.  That's Tom Farin's #21 page.  He put that together from discussions on MLS when Bob Baxter and Chris Walas were building their sparkie versions a few years back.  It's been useful to me throughout this project.  Doesn't say anything about the air pump or its plumbing though. 

Part of the fun (to me) of this whole thing has been the research.  Same with my yet-to-be-started On30 layout based upon the SPC.  I enjoy learning about local history and how my area used to look.  It's fun to come across a street name like "Lick Mill Rd." and know where it came from. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

It just keeps getting better all the time-as the Beatles said! Jerry


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

There's a device sitting atop the small air tank that for months I couldn't figure out what it was or what it looked like.  It was large enough and prominent enough that I wanted to reasonably represent it.










I finally sent out an email to a bunch of people I know and posted the same question and photos in the Public Forum (figuring I'd get the most views and responses there).  See *this topic*.
 
Only two people responded (including the emails) - Matthew and David Fletcher.  Both agreed it was a triple valve for the brake system on the tender.  David was also kind enough to email me this image of an 1883 triple valve...










Armed with this info, and not being able to find a commercial casting that would work, I set about to make one.

Taking proportions from the prototype photo, I determined that the overall height should be 0.656".  Measuring the above image of the triple valve, I generated an AutoCAD drawing from which I could take measurements.  The first step to making one was to rough out the shape from a piece of 0.375 brass hexagonal stock.  I turned the upper and lower cylinders manually, then clamped the part vertically in a machinist's vice on the milling table and wrote a little g-code program to mill the body profile and center-drill the hole locations.




























After milling and drilling, I then had to use the lathe again to remove the scars left by the vice /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif (I did that after taking these photos 'cause I didn't notice them until I looked at the pictures).

I then started making and adding parts using various sizes of tube, rod, and wire.  Here's the finished triple valve...





































Now to mount it and run the plumbing (I need more elbows again - sigh).


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight,
your builder's log has two big disadvantages/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue2.gif:

#1 It makes everybody jealous of your excellent NPC #21
#2 Same holds for your CNC equipment!

By the way, I googled over the weekend and tried to find any patents by William(Bill) Thomas (designer of #21). Amazingly, none showed up... 
One more thing: Are you sure, the lower "steam collector" is really for steam. If you look at the backhead (or what would be a backhead on a conventional loco), you see a water gauge right at this spot. I think this is real, because the photos of the unfinished boiler don't show any fittings/holes for such a device at a different location.

Regards


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By HMeinhold on 02/19/2008 8:30 AM
#2 Same holds for your CNC equipment!
Thanks Henner.  However, with the exception of the main body profile, everything here was done by hand.  

One more thing: Are you sure, the lower "steam collector" is really for steam. If you look at the backhead (or what would be a backhead on a conventional loco), you see a water gauge right at this spot. I think this is real, because the photos of the unfinished boiler don't show any fittings/holes for such a device at a different location.

I'm not 100% sure about anything on this locomotive.  Where did you see the site glass?  In a photo?


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## rodblakeman (Jan 2, 2008)

More beautiful work Dwight, you are showing us all the way these models should be made  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight,
the sight glass is visible in the drawing, spanning exactly the water level. On the photos of the boiler you can't see any fittings for either such a sight glass or try cocks. It would be mounted on the plate bolted  to the upper drum (which is still missing on the photos). I still think the drawing is quite authentic; it may even be from the (not yet found) patent drawings.
Regards


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

That triple valve is a beautiful little part Dwight.  Can you make me one?  I want to wear it as a piece of jewelery.

Regards,

Eric


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Rod. 

Henner - I have my doubts about drawings - first because I've seen a couple of them that were obviously wrong, and second because I doubt there were very many drawings made at the time she was built, and I doubt those survived.  If you're referring to the drawing I posted earlier from *Those Amazing Cab Forwards*, it was first published in 1983 - 81 years after #21 was built.  While I don't have the book and so haven't read it, I seriously doubt the author was an expert in obscure marine boilers.  The fact that the lower collector(?) connected to the globe valve out the back is, for all intents and purposes, identical to the upper collector(?) connected to the throttle valve, and yet is under water, indicates to me that the author was guessing at best.  The additional fact that the globe valve isn't shown connected to anything reinforces my suspicion that this drawing is wrong, as does my own study of the actual photos.

At any rate, when you come right down to it, without actual builder's drawings and with only a few grainy photos to go on, we're all guessing here, no matter how educated the guess may be.    That being the case, if I can't see it and recognize it in an actual photo of the prototype, it's up for interpretation.  

Eric - thanks, but no thanks.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, Your #21 is certainly looking FINE!!! Those little tiny pieces sure time consuming, I admire the amount of work you put in to them. I'm glad the Mason Bogie research and drawings were done for me or I would have never even gotten started. Looking forward to the finished loco.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Winn. I enjoy the detailing on my models - always have (Tom Bowdler says I'm "anal" - hehehe). 

I'm glad the Mason Bogie research and drawings were done for me or I would have never even gotten started.

And I'm equally glad I didn't have to make my own cylinders and valve gear or *I* never would have gotten started!  How's your Mason coming btw?


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Hope to have an update in a day or two. I'm finishing up the cab except for decals and windows. Trying to get all the parts for th RC servo links figured out. I'm getting down to the detailing which goes very slowly for me.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

But Dwight, 
I meant ANAL only in the nicest way. 
Your work is superb! 
Tom


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I know that Tom. Thanks.   Just having a little fun at your expense.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the triple valve installed tonight.  There's one more pipe connection out the top, but unfortunately I'm out of elbows again. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif 

Here are the requisite pics... /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue2.gif



















and one from the same relative perspective as the prototype photo...


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## GrizzlyFlatsFan (Jan 5, 2008)

Dwight, truly spectacular work.  Your research and modeling ability is amazing!  This is one beautiful locomotive.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Dan.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif  I've had a lot of help in the research department!!

Speaking of which, a few days ago, I logged into MLS and found I had a message from our own Steve Conkle (SteveC) telling me I had "a surprise" and directing me to a link in his web space where I could pick it up.  Imagine my surprise when I found that Steve had rooted out a PDF of one of the original patents on #21!!!  The next day, a second message directed me to a _second_ patent... this one containing the major details of the boiler construction, _including a drawing!!!_  Here's the drawing...










The text explains most of the major construction features of the boiler and how they work.  David Fletcher was amazingly accurate when he came up with his *backhead drawing* a few years back when Bob Baxter and Chris Walas were working on their sparkie models.  Kudos to David!!

There are a few differences between the patent drawing and the prototype.  For one thing, the patent drawing is a rendering of a more general cab-behind locomotive while #21 was a cab forward.  As a result, the steam pipe out of the "steam drum" (as it's called in the patent - I've been calling it a "steam collection cylinder") exits into the cab on #21, not down towards the stack and under the bell as is shown in the drawing.

The most glaring difference I noticed is that the patent calls for mounting the steam drum level on the inclined boiler, while the photos of #21 clearly show the steam drum inclined and parallel with the boiler centerline.

The patent _does_ answer a question many have had when looking at this... why was the boiler inclined?  Apparently, it was for water circulation purposes inside the boiler and aided in the creation of convection currents through the water-filled flues (it was a water-tube boiler).

I have heard from practically every source that #21 used a marine boiler.  However, after seeing this patent, I'm beginning to wonder whether or not it was built from scratch - probably not by the NPC shops, but by a boiler manufacturer according to NPC design specifications.  Any opinions on that?

Those interested can download the patent *here*.  I'm _*very grateful*_ to Steve for taking the time to root this out for me!!  

It's rewarding to find that most of my guesses have been correct.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

#21 is sure looking good....your work is inspiring.  Your triple valve is really nicely done.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight:
Since you're into unusual (aka strange) locos, I thought you might make this your next project...


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## CapeCodSteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, that is exactly what I need! The floor platform is low enough that you can make a drop down ramp in the back, instead of like a swinging door. Then I'd have my own wheelchair accessible steam engine. Come on Dennis, after you finish the #21, wanna build it for me? /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris - remember the photo I took of you at the NSS?  Can I use it on the inner-front wall of the carriage to represent the missing part of the horse?  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight:  Very nice work.  The detail work really goes a long way.  Again, I am convinced that saws and files are so last century.  I need to get one of those CNC mills

Looking forward to the next

Bob


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks to Mike Oates for sending me the package of TD-53's.  I have completed the triple valve.
 








I also ordered a Grex Genesis.XT airbrush which can produce a paint pattern up to 1.5 inches.  I considered their X1000 spray gun, but after talking to the distributor (himself a large scale railroader), his opinion was that the XT airbrush would be a better tool for this application.

At work, we use a water-based two-part satin black epoxy paint.  Spec's wise, I think it would be perfect for this application.  It's extremely durable, won't scratch or wear off easily, and heat actually hardens it.  I'm going to experiment on some scrap parts and see if I can lay down a couple of thin enough coat of the stuff using the XT so as not to obscure detail.  If it works, I've found my paint.


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, 

Fantastic bit of research by SteveC ! 

Do you think that the various references to "marine boiler" maybe should really say "marine-type boiler"? At the time #21 was designed the San Francisco Bay waters were extrmemely important for transporatation and commerce. Steam dominated for larger vessels. Gasoline engines were new technology and typically used only in smaller craft. There must have been many facilities around the Bay that could produce a marine-type boiler to custom specifications. 

Steve


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you think that the various references to "marine boiler" maybe should really say "marine-type boiler"? 
Good question Steve.  From the references in various books, I'd always assumed that a stock marine boiler was used. Looking at the patent, however, I now suspect the boiler was designed by the NPC. They wouldn't have been able to get a patent on it otherwise. 

Were there even gasoline engines in 1901? I don't know enough about marine boilers used in that era to even know if they were typically water tube types. 

Bottom line, most of the stuff previously printed seems to have been based upon guesswork (some of it educated), and it seems much (if not most) of it was wrong. The patent drawings prove that.  We probably know more about this loco now than most of the people writing the books. hehehe


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Tonight I finally got around to turning the spark arrestor for the stack.  I started with a 1.25" diameter piece of brass rod.  Since I was going to have to remove a lot of material, and since lathes are messy, I set mine up out in the garage.

The first order of business was to turn a 0.345 x 0.250 shoulder to fit in the existing stack.  This was done manually (the tool marks are from the steady rest).










Next I drilled it 0.250" through...










Next I wrote a little g-code program that would cut the profile.  I supported the end with a live center and started turning, taking off 0.005" each pass.  I'd run the program, manually advance the crossfeed 0.005", run the program again, advance the crossfeed, run the program, etc.  77 passes later, I had the correct profile.  A couple of passes taking off 1/2 mil for a good finish, and I was done turning.  Some polishing with a fine file and the some 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper,and I was ready to part it off.










Once parted off, I turned it around and drilled the top 0.375", cleaned up the part line, and I was done.


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

Cool Dwight.  That is one fancy spark arrestor!  It looks like if you rub the locomotive a genie will pop out.  Better start thinking about what your three wishes will be!


Regards,

Eric


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Better start thinking about what your three wishes will be!
A paint job?


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, 

Beautiful work. I'm sending a message off line regarding what's behind door #3. (Or door #21!) 

Best regards, 

Alan


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## Walt_Linn (Jan 3, 2008)

Dwight,

Very nice work!  For an ugle duckling, you are sure making her look real purdy 

My wife looked over my shoulder and saw a picture of  #21.  Her comment was "all it needs are some blinds with tassles to cover windows!"  

Walt


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

"all it needs are some blinds with tassles to cover windows!"
Tell her I hope to get around to adding those this weekend.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

For several weeks now, I've been wanting to get the "innards" made for my tender water bunker. Something was holding me back - essentially, a dis-satisfaction with the way things were arranging themselves. A week or so ago, a light went off - what if I mounted things vertically instead of trying to stack then on top of each other? I test-fit things vertically, and it all fit! This was going to work! 

The first step was to make a bracket to mount the WLDS water pump out of 0.06 brass sheet. Easy enough... 










Then to mount the pump... this is where I hit my first snag. The damn screws are 5-40s! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif At work, we have 4-40s and 6-32s - no 5-40s. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif So I went to Orchard Supply on my lunch - they didn't have 5-40s either. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif I ended up having to buy 100 of them from McMaster. Cost me more to ship the things Next Day than it did for the screws. 

Oh well, it's only money right?  Onward and Upward!  

I gt some aluminum hex standoffs from work and parted them off to the correct length. Here's the pump attached to the bracket... 










I mounted the WLDS itself to the pump servo with self-stick velcro with the adjustment screw facing out... 










I cut the one of the five cells loose from the 6v battery pack and repositioned it to better conform to the inner curve, then re-wrapped it with some fiberglass tape from work. Here's everything inside the water bunker... 










Next I had to make the tank to actually hold the water. I ended up with less room that I'd have liked, and the tank only holds about 75ml of water (60-65 under actual operating conditions). Still, that's better than nothing. 



















To connect the water line, I used some brass tube and a Du-Bro 1/8" ID Fuel Line Barb... 










to give the hose clamp something to grab on to... 

















She's-a fini!! 









I tried things out and a satisfying pulse of water comes out the front tender water line. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif I was going to take a mocie, but my video camera went on the fritz. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif 

Another piece of good news... Cliff from Accucraft is driving to the Phoenix Con, and is taking #21 with him, so I'll be able to run her at Duncan's and at the Con itself.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

It's been over a year since my last update. Part of the reason is that I simply burned out and shelved the whole thing for a while, at least so far as working on the locomotive. Another part was that I knew I'd inevitably hear, _*"So when are you going to paint it?"*_ - a question I was frankly sick of answering. However, much progress has been made, and a few issues still need to be resolved. At any rate, it's time to post an update. 

Most of the progress has been in the way of improvements as opposed to additions, though there have been a few additions as well. The biggest change was to swap boilers. I managed to acquire a boiler from one of the newer Accucraft 4-4-0's. These are almost identical to the Mogul boiler originally used - same size, same capacity, but the 4-4-0 has a site glass already, and the safety valve is nearer the backhead than the Mogul.

I wanted a site glass!!! Rather than try and silver-braze one into the existing Mogul boiler, swapping seemed a lot easier. The other advantage - safety valve placement - allowed me to add a Goodall valve, something I couldn't do before due to the safety being one and the same with the filler plug.

The new site glass interfered with the existing reversing servo, so that had to be remounted. I also wasn't happy with the pushrod setup on the throttle. I'd originally had a sprocket and chain setup on the throttle, but the large cab windows front and center made the servo sprocket all too visible. In short, it looked like a big nautical steering wheel visible through the front windows, so I went to a pushrod for aesthetic reasons. Unfortunately, the byproduct of this change was limited throttle throw (90 degrees), something I've never been entirely happy with.

Onward and upward! Once I acquired the new boiler, a tear-down to the chassis was inevitable, so while I had her apart, I took the opportunity to mill a slot in the cab deck for a larger throttle servo sprocket. This allowed the servo to mount sideways instead of vertically, with almost half the sprocket extending through the slot below the floor into the parallelogram-shaped "toolbox" below the cab, and not really project itself much into the area visible through the windows. Since I also needed to relocate the reversing servo and eliminate the Johnson bar, I milled another smaller slot for the servo arm to project through the floor as well.

While I had the loco apart, I took the opportunity to fix a few errors made previously along the way, improve upon some other things, and to add a few remaining details I'd never gotten around to. I replaced and rewired the connector where the battery and headlight power plugs into the loco from the tender. The previous connector had melted a couple of times, so I replaced it with a higher temperature connector. I simplified the wiring running forward to three wires instead of four, and ran those wires within a piece of black, flexible 200*C fiberglass electrical sleeving nicked from work. I added a small MicroElectronics connector for the headlight connection, and drilled the headlight and cab for an warm white LED. I also relocated the Rx to the fireman's side, and made a hold-down bracket for it, wrapping it edgewise in 1/8" fiber mat to insulate it from the heat of the cab floor.

I added small - I can only assume they were water pipes to the injectors - to each side. I agonized over these for a long time, as on the prototype, they start above the running boards at the cab end, run aft and parallel to the inclined boiler, through the running boards, and end up at water fittings under the smokebox. Thing is, I already have an oversized "water fitting" on each side, one for butane and one for water from the WLDS pump. More fittings would look out of place, and what to connect them to? Photos of that area are in deep shadow and are unclear. No matter what, I'd have to locate where they passed through the running boards and mill an appropriate clearance slot for them. In the end, I decided to take a modeler's license and end them flush with the bottom of the running boards.

I pulled the Bangham whistle out of my Shay and added it to #21 instead. This required drilling a couple of holes in the "steam collection cylinder" (i.e. warp drive nacelle) atop the boiler. Where on the Shay, the whistle plugged directly into the resonator through a hole in the cab, here the resonator would have to be 90 degrees from the whistle and connected via an elbow or hunk of bent brass or copper tubing. Since I'd have to drill holes for it, I decided to make the 90 degree connecting tube, connect it to the otherwise still-connected steam supply and valve on the Shay, fire the Shay's boiler, and see what this different connection did to the whistle's "voice" before drilling holes in #21 which I couldn't later un-drill.

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that, rather than screw things up, the "voice" actually got deeper. Satisfied, I drilled holes and commenced with the install.

Finally, some pictures! 

This first shot shows the whistle bottom, resonator, and 90 degree connection inside the "steam collection cylinder."










The new boiler has the steam take-off from the throttle valve on the opposite side than did the Mogul boiler. This required extending the line to the lubricator so it would reach. Rather than hard-splice a new line, I decided to make an extension in the interests of easing future disassembly. While I was at it, I also decided to add a union of sorts between the lubricator and the cylinder connection 'cause the latter is a b!tch to get to when things need to come apart or go together. While I had cones and cone nuts, I didn't have the part they mate to, so I had to make some. Not really a whole lot to them, but as I've never made any before, I was sorta proud of them. 



















I ended up making three - two for the lubricator lines and one for the water line where it enters the cab. These were silver-brazed to the appropriate tubes.

The whistle would also need a steam supply, so I made a manifold to tap steam from the pressure gauge fitting (sorry for the blurry photo - it's the only one I took).










There a cone and nut to connect to the boiler, a threaded bushing for the steam gauge cone and nut to connect to, and a steam supply tube for the whistle valve. Actually, this is the second one I made - the first got clogged up with silver solder, so I had to make another. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif

Here's an overall shot of the cab with all the changes...










The Johnson bar is now gone and the reversing servo now lays down sideways on the engineer's side, while the throttle servo lays sideways along the front. A small square of fiber mat insulates it from the burner. The third servo is new and sits behind the reversing servo from where it operates the whistle valve, which itself sits horizontally just in front of the filler plug. You can see the safety tucked back in the "steam collection cylinder, behind which is the resonator connection, and the silicon tube supplying steam to the whistle. The Rx sits behind the lubricator in the fireman's side. The black tube running forward is flexible fiberglass-sleeved power for the headlight. The bushing at front-right is the water line.

Compare this to the old arrangement in Dec. '07...










Something else which bears mentioning... I discovered that there was enough slop in the throttle needle valve that the chain arrangement would pull it downward, thereby binding it enough that the servo couldn't turn it any further in either direction. To solve this, I turned a supporting bushing out of bearing bronze. This slips over the throttle needle arm and the boiler seat and fastens via two set screws. A small hole is supplied for occasional oiling of the needle arm where it rides inside the bushing. This arrangement supports the end of the arm and prevents downward motion and the subsequent binding.










Some additional photos..

This shows the whistle and the "injector pipes"...










Additional shots of the cab reconfiguration...



















Test runs show that I'm having trouble keeping 40psi in the boiler. Dave Hottman and I have discussed several possible causes and solutions. I did go so far as to pull the electronics out, pressurize the boiler with air, and submerge the whole works in the sink to look for bubbles. A couple of small leaks were found and corrected, but the problem remains. I sleeved part of the burner a.k.a. Dave Hottmann...










Still no joy. The work continues, and until this is solved, I doubt I'll paint the loco. 

*HOWEVER...*

Today, I took the tender apart and soaked and scrubbed all parts in industrial strength Simple Green, then rinsed thoroughly with hot water and allowed to air dry!










Next comes a soaking in vinegar, another rinse, and finally paint and lettering, at least for the tender which needs no further mods. I might just do the cab too!  I hope to have this done and everything put back together before I leave for the BTS. Maybe that will shut you guys up about paint!


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

*Hey Dwight, when are you going to pa*------  uh just kidding.  I better not even finish the question










Looks awesome.  Nice mods.


Regards,


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

But Dwight....paint then you'll have to weather it! Since you are fine tuning your skills of making parts, we could send some draws to you.....


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe that will shut you guys up about paint!
Jeez, I hope no one got offended. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif I was only kidding around.  

Thanks Eric.  

Charles - I don't plan to weather her as I'm building her as she appeared right out of the shop on her trial run.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, what size sprockets are you using on the throttle? Looks like you will get almost a full turn on the throttle valve?!?


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight I came across somewhere a rc throttle valve. 3mm or 1/8" pipe unions and a 90 degree close to full open. I though it was Regner but cant find it on their catalog now. Not sure where else it would of been from. O well its another option, if I found it or if someone else knows where its from. 

Getting better with the cnc huh, looks like a sweet stack. 

Did you change over the 440 burner and jet holder with the boiler?? I think both were the same burners anyway but odd that it cant keep steam. Another think is on my k28 I had the battery pack near the burner and it was too close to to one of the air holes on the burner and caused some weak flames. I see your servo is very close any change without the servo there?? 

Look into Gunkote paint also. Its what Ed Hume used and kept all the detail from the photos, its a thin paint that holds up very well. Dont touch it before its baked though.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Jeff - I have a 12-tooth on the throttle needle and a 36-tooth on the servo for a 3:1 ratio. For 90* of servo travel I get 270* of throttle movement.  

Jason - the burner and jet are the ones that came with the 4-4-0 boiler. Subsequent to the pressure problem, Dave suggested I pull the Mogul burner and take a look at it. He had sleeved the first 1.25" with a piece of split brass tubing. I duplicated it on the 4-4-0 burner. It resulted in getting pressure up faster, but made little difference in keeping the pressure up. 

Funny thing is that it makes little difference to loco performance - she still runs just fine. It's the new whistle that needs the pressure to operate correctly. I wish now I'd paid more attention tot he steam gauge prior to swapping boilers. She runs pretty much the same as she always has, and now I'm wondering if there's always been a pressure issue. Thinking back to running at Mark's over Christmas, before I swapped boilers, there were a few slight grades - very small - more irregularities in leveling than grades actually. Sometimes she'd get to that point and slow to a crawl, or actually stop for a moment to build pressure before moving on. I'd always attributed this to having limited throttle throw, but thinking back now, it may have been a similar pressure issue. 

So far I've looked for leaks and fixed them, stretched the spring on the safety to increase pressure, and sleeved the burner. The safety is still going off between 45-50psi, so I need to play with that some more. Once I get the tender back together, I think I'll try a run or two with the safety from the Mogul boiler which has a higher relief pressure - just for grins. I've also been testing using 70/30 butane/propane. Dave suggests I try it with pure butane (higher btu's per volume) and a warm water bath (I always use water, but not warm water). If that doesn't work, a few runs with Lucas oil to see if there's possible blowby in the piston valves. Worse comes to worse, Dave will be at the NSS and we can mull it over together after he observes what's happening. We'll get it fixed - I just don't know how soon. hehehe 
I see your servo is very close any change without the servo there??
That might be worth an experiment. Thanks for the suggestion. The flame looks and sounds good and strong, but who knows. 

Regarding Gunkote paint, I took a look at that a while back. After doing some research, I've decided to try Scalecoat 1. It's designed for use on bare brass locomotives, and they claim it won't scratch or chip if it's baked on. I bought a new toaster oven specifically for that purpose.


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## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight,

Thanks for the update. Amazing work as usual!

Best regards,

Alan


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I done do'ed it. I started painting the tender today. The first batch of parts is baking as I type.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Finally !
Now when you _did_ done do'ed it, show us with photos, please.


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 05/26/2009 11:18 PM
Regarding Gunkote paint, I took a look at that a while back. After doing some research, I've decided to try Scalecoat 1. It's designed for use on bare brass locomotives, and they claim it won't scratch or chip if it's baked on. I bought a new toaster oven specifically for that purpose.


Dwight....What temperature and how long for baking?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Second and last batch of parts are painted and baking.







If all goes well, I can letter tomorrow - assuming I can find the damn dry transfers I bought over a year ago! /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif

Howard - Scalecoat's web site recommends ~175*F for ~2 hours.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay, here it is... the painted tender. Not 100% perfect, but I can live with it. Reassembled just in time to pack it up for the BTS. 














































IT'S PAINTED!!![/b]







Well, half of it anyway.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Dwight! Can't wait to see it in person this weekend.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight
Impressed with the overall look, like it better than brass.
I think "not perfect" is perfect, after all it's a steam engine....even better weathered but I know, out of the shops for you.


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## dwegmull (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Dwight, 
Nice photoshop job! 

Seriously, this is nice. Are you going to keep it clean or will you add weathering at a later point?


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks great Dwight. Dwight take it from someone who has built models for movies, "not perfect" is better for realism anyway. I doubt any real locomotive when new was as perfect as most shiny new models depict. With outdoor light, on a nice layout, I think your loco will look just like the real deal.

Regards,

Eric


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

How did you get the protypical oil stains seeping through. I thought that it was a cat paw print on my screen but it is not. Very realistic. After all these are oil and water tanks aren't they? Some more steam oil spatters and she will really look great. Very nice job there young man. 
Noel


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys!  I must admit I was nervous! I've painted small scale locos before, but never anything this big. I ended up using my airbrush and it didn't come out too bad.
even better weathered but I know, out of the shops for you.

Few photos of this loco are around, and she only lived four short years. However, none of the photos of her in various stages of her life show her heavily weathered. At most, the sheen is off her, but she isn't all dirty and stained up, nor does she seem to be seriously discolored in places. So in this case at least, no weathering seems to be prototypical. 
Seriously, this is nice. Are you going to keep it clean or will you add weathering at a later point?

I don't plan to weather it, though a certain amount of staining and stuff is inevitable with a live steamer and a matte finish.
With outdoor light, on a nice layout, I think your loco will look just like the real deal.

Thanks Eric. Coming from you, that's a real compliment! 
How did you get the protypical oil stains seeping through.

It was purely unintentional. The Scalecoat 1 black I used is supposed to be gloss finish. I also used their clear gloss overcoat, which didn't come out glossy. I suspect what happened is more paint hit certain areas than others, giving that area a sheen.

Since the photos were taken, I sprayed it with a coat of Krylon UV Resistant Matte Acrylic. That evened things out quite a bit. I had noticed that the clear coat I used before was very thin and wasn't offering much protection for the lettering (one of the "C's" in "N.P.C." was actually starting to peel up slightly), so I wanted to get a thicker clear overcoat on it.

As for imperfections, the dry transfers I used are slightly shorter than on the prototype (3/8 as opposed to an estimated 7/16 to be scale), and the letters are narrower in proportion to their height than on the prototype. That leaves a larger gap between N.P.C. and R.R. than on the prototype, but I can live with that. Any nitpickers determined to point that out can go build their own. hehehe

I have several things to try at the BTS to see if I can resolve the steam pressure problem. If they work and the problem is solved, I'll try and have the loco itself painted in time for the NSS. If not, I won't, as Dave Hottmann and I will be fooling with it and I don't want it all scratched up.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

Dwight,
Looks Great! The locomotive itself wouldn't be too sooted up since the stack is in the back. I wonder if the tanks got a good coating though... 
Russ


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

*Dwight,*

*You need to finish painting the tender!*

*Those bright shinny wheels and axles need some of that black on them also!*


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight, 

Sweet. from the photos, I think it came out great. 

Mike


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

You need to finish painting the tender! 

Those bright shinny wheels and axles need some of that black on them also!
You're right Bruce. The inside of the wheels and the axles will get a rust color - Floquil Rail Brown or something similar, and the outside a coat of the same black (to match shade and sheen and also to get rid of the silver rims). The tires I'll leave alone. I forgot to clean and prep the wheels and just plain ran out of time.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Dream on Dwight... nit pickers never build... where's the fun in that? 

Beautiful work. I am in awe. 

Back in the day an engineer was often given one loco to run, they took pride in 'em and kept them clean and polished on their own dime. 

Out of the shops might not be polished enough! 

Thanks also for expanding our knowledge, I wasn't aware of an American cabforward, before I saw yours. 

At first I thought it was a whimsy pulling stills!... An original ethanol; corn licker fired.... classic! 

Great build. 

John


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight: Really nice work, no doubt about it. Can't wait to see the engine next. Don't worry about weathering it. Just run it a lot and the weathering will take care of itself.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautifully done, Dwight. Ya really done proud with the paint job. The tender looks great.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Holey Batman he actually is painting this loco. It will never be the same and most folks will think you just built a new loco.







. Great job maybe I'll get to see it again one day. Later RJD


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