# 1:1 Crossing



## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I recently came across a full size RR crossing signal with double face lights bell, and a crossing arm. Not sure if I want to sell it or set up some where on the Farm property. I think it all runs on 12VDC, not positive. Would need to come up with motion sensing if we decide to install across drive or road. I am sure that some one would have some piratical experience that could give some advice.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I'd worry if anyone here has piratical experience! 

At least locally rail crossings run on conventional 120 volts AC - they have utility meters and accounts, I pay one for my employer. It's activated by the train completing an electrical circuit. 

It sounds like you'll need a location sensor, not just a motion sensor, since you'd want to prevent the gate from lowering on a motionless obstruction. The optical sensor units often used with garage door openers, for instance.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

If you got the place to put it, you may as well set up just the bucks and lights. Setting up the arm might make things all a bit more involved though to make all stable. You can always sell it all later once the train passes trough.









Andrew


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

If I set it up will drill a 24" hole 48" deep with 4 anchor bolts. I need to open the control box and try to identify voltage on electrical components. Last summer I wired a crossing light for a friend, it had 12 automotive lights. I changed them to LED's That's why I was thinking they were all 12VDC.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine had 12V bulbs in them, but I don't know if that is standard. I have no idea what the voltage or current requirements are for the motor to raise and lower a gate.

I didn't get a RR control box with mine, so to power them I used a car turn-signal flasher and a SPDT relay, powered by a 120V AC to 12V DC power supply. To operate it, I put an adapter in the light socket of my garage door opener that added a socket (the bulb then fit the adapter too) and plugged the 12V power supply into it. The RR lights flashed as long as the door opener light was on.

I gave up on that when I realized I was driving past flashing lights every time I drove in or out of the garage!

So I got a small remote controlled AC power switch to plug the power supply into. It had a small transmitter to carry in my pocket. I could press the button in my pocket to turn the lights on and off. Had great fun convincing the neighborhood kids that it was voice activated... I'd say, "Computer, Lights ON!" and secretly press the button in my pocket. The kids would scream and yell and not get it to work.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

use plywood scrap to set your pattern for your bolts in the concrete.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Marty, That is good advice. I have poured a few dozen light pole bases in my other life.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike, 
Here is a neat website for a company that restores and sells signals. It might give you some ideas. I ordered a set of crossbucks from them years ago for a crossing I restored. 
http://www.railroadstuff.com/main.htm


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## Robby D (Oct 15, 2009)

I have one that operates at my store. it was set up to work on 24v AC or DC I put a Cordless Renovations flasher unit in it and changed the lights to 12v DC It works very well.


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

Look at http://www.mightymule.com/gate-opener-access-controls.htm Vehicle Sensor (FM138) You can down load instruction that have specs. The have a wireless also. Other part may be required to convert to crossing singal. 
I use this direct bury sensor to open my gate when exiting my property. 
Wesley


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Robby, Does yours have a crossing arm.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

how about a remote thingy that would turn on grade crossing lights for a minute or so? solar power?


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I have thought about a remote of some kind, but have not done any thing with it.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Have you noticed the following? Could be modified to accomplish the task at hand.









RC/Battery Operations/Topic: Topic: Found: Inexpensive and Capable Radio Control Un[/b]i[/b]*t*


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

The actual set up on the railroad runs on 9volt dc. If you feed the original RR issued signal bulbs with 12vt they are overly bright and dont last as long. The set up uses a bank of gel cell batteries charged from the 120vt mains coming into the control box. The batteries power the track detection circuit relays and the EOR relay that actualy alternates the lights. A simple trickle charger keeps the batteries up to snuff. They are set up to run up to 24hours without commercial power. Older sets used all glass bottomed relays, newer sets are more computerized and solid state and can detect if a train stops short of the crossing and turn off the lights. Older sets kept the lights going and the gates down as long as there was a train within the insulated segment of track. You can trip a set of grade crossing lights by just connecting a jumper cable from one rail other rail. On CTC control track this will also trigger a block detection circuit on his board, and change line side signals accordingly. The correct relay's show up on ebay and IMHO do the best at flashing the lights the most realistic in both rate and dwel time. I ran mine using a 12vt car bulbs, a 12vt deep cycle battery as a buffer between the charger and relay. A simple switch between the negitive side of the battery and the flasher relay(Union Switch and Signal DN11) turned mine on and off. A motion sensor or other automatic setup could be done as well. Cheers Mike


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