# ho/oo scale



## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

is it possible to switch things around and put an HO scale set outside?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sure, just more maintenance, and most people cover the track when not in use. You probably won't be able to find UV resistant plastic ties. 

Roadbed stability will become paramount. 

It has been done. 

Greg


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Watch out for a strong breeze. Hurricane force winds in HO scale!!!! Derailments might be an issue. 


-Kevin.


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

what would you suggest for road bed? i was thinking sand or fine fish tank gravel


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Neither! 
I'd lay that track directly on asphalt rolled roofing, cut to width. 
I considered putting my On3 outside, but when I saw how much sand and soil moved during a rain I changed my thinking. 
On3 shares your flanges on low profile rail, it wouldn't take much to tumble a more delicate model. If my mind wanders back there, I'll hopefully elevate my thoughts and put it on a table. At my age I'm afraid I wouldn't see crud in a flange way. 

Good Luck 

John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Like John said, and something that won't shift underneath... If I was doing such a small scale outdoors I would elevate it. 

I saw one where the guy did a shelf on his fence, and then had canvas covers that came out from the fence and draped over to cover the track when not running... like a long window shade. 

Greg


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

what about wood planks burried in the ground slightly?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

In most places, wood in the ground will warp, and you will get "cross level" problems on your track, and this will cause problems in running. 

If you wanted to put it on something, concrete pavers might work, but you have to set them level and not have frost heave. 

More along the lines of ladder track, elevated from the ground and then fill dirt around if you want it on the ground. 

Read all the problems people have with washouts, frost heave, rain, etc. and then multiply them by 3 times for your smaller scale. 

Greg


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

well I live in the north carolina mountains where we have a fairly moist climmate for except summer where everthing is bone dry what could I do as far as "weather proofing"?


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

what about track could I used standard snap track? or would I need to find special track for outdoor use?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I'd consider using steel or aluminum 1" square tubing for your roadbed. You'd need special tools to bend it to radius, but there are fabrication shops that can do that kind of stuff for you very easily. Not the cheapest way to do business, but it'll be sturdy and won't twist on you. As for track, the biggest thing (as was said earlier) is that most HO type track doesn't have UV inhibitors in it, since it's designed for indoors. I don't know if there are some that do, so you may be stuck. If you're going to use snap track, I might consider using the stuff that has the track and ballast together. (Atlas, Bachmann, Kato, etc.) so you don't have to worry about needing to ballast the track and having it wash away. (There are ways to do that with "standard" track, but you'd need a wider platform for your track than just the 1" square tubing.) 

Good luck. It's uncommon to see HO outdoors, largely because of the maintenance involved to keep the tracks clear and landscaping is seldom remotely in scale, but if you can make it work, more power to you! 

Later, 

K


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

what about structures would they survive the outdoor conditions?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I would advise against using sectional track unless you solder the joiners completely. 

I think that you will find this pretty close to impossible on the all in one track, due to the proximity of the plastic to the metal joiner. 

expansion and contraction can easily fracture a solder connection that does not have some mechanical strength... translation: you probably have to get the entire joiner wetted with solder. 

Structures built of the proper materials will survive, but I doubt any commercial HO structures would survive without reinforcement, painting of UV resistant paint, and other modifications. 

Regards, Greg


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

thanks but my biggest concern is rust


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What rust? 

The buildings? 

The track? 

Surely not the trains, you probably cannot leave them outside... 

? 

Greg


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

track rust 
plastic buildings 
and trains that I keep under lock and key when not in use


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Maybe you could try two pieces of 1" poly pipe, side by side joined with cable ties and pinned into the ground to set your track on to keep it raised and keep all smooth and transitional. It would span a few feet too. A strip of some type of synthetic mat that won't rot draped over the top to resemble ballast and hide the gap before attaching the track perhaps. Earth could then be filled over the lower edges. Long flexi track would be best. Just an idea! 

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Umm... brass or nickel silver does not rust. 

It will oxidize just like G scale, plenty of discussions here about how to handle that. 

Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Another concern with the outdoor environment is the sand/dirt that can get in to gears and such especially if laid ground level. I'd would think about an above ground layout as better suited. Later RJD


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

thank You i am going to put it above ground until it gets to the embankment behind my house at that point I was going do some georgous sweeping curves a trestle and a small logging/mining town 
new question however what plants would be good to tun my trains past the hill already has plenty of moss ground cover 
also would I need to do some complex wiring mineline run would probobly be 50 foot+


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

no complex wiring, feeders every 30 feet or so.


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

how would I do that? ive never done anything beyond a small 4X5 layout atop an old dinning table


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## ET&WNCfan (Mar 1, 2013)

how would I run "feeder wire"?


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## RCE (Sep 14, 2009)

I just saw your post about what track to use. Peco track is said to be UV protected. 
Here is a link to there web site. http://www.peco-uk.com/


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Your feeder wires are the wires that power the track. As Greg said you need to make sure you have them going to the track about every 30 feet otherwise you will get voltage drop in the rails after some distance. You will need to use some fairly thick copper wire. Solid wire would be best outside as the water gets in the ends of the stranded stuff. Common electrician's wire for houses will work OK, perhaps overkill. Someone else will know what's best if you describe your layout set-up and distances, and where your power supply/controllers will be. Also if you are going to have block control for several trains. You either have the wire follow the track and connect every 30 feet (or less), or if your power supply is in the center of things, better to have several shorter wires radiating out from there so you don't also get voltage drop through one long wire.

Andrew


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