# MY GROUND THROWS FOR MY SWITCHES.



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I build some ground throws for my switches based on some pictures I saw here in one of my other threads. 


I got these dead bolt latches at ace hardware. I have purchased several dead bolt latches as a test.

I chose these because they had the shortest stroke when operating them. 



I mounted one to a piece of steel 6 inches long. It would be a little easier to use wood or plastic 










Here I am marking mounting holes to be drilled to mount the track on the switch throw base. 











I drilled a and taped a hole in the end of the dead bolt and inserted as screw 

I am using Piano wire for a spring. I got it at a local hardware store. 

I bent a loop in the end of my piece of wire and I bent the wire to make a two way spring. 

Since the dead bolt stroke is longer than needed to move the switch the spring will either pull the points or push the points to hold them against the rail with a little pressure 

The screw is screwd into the end of the dead bolt and the nut is tightened against the end of the dead bolt. This will lock the screw in a position to give us a gap so that the dead bolt can turn as it is moved from one locked position to the other with out twisting out spring.


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Why not using a large nut with an lever soldered on(a couple stops either throw} ,this way if you use a socket on an extension (rod) you can set the switch without going ground level and busting your back? 

Manfred


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good JJ


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By lotsasteam on 08 May 2013 05:46 PM 
Why not using a large nut with an lever soldered on(a couple stops either throw} ,this way if you use a socket on an extension (rod) you can set the switch without going ground level and busting your back? 

Manfred 









I am working on one like you describer. 

I have not worked out the mounting yet 

JJ


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

Bolt the nut to a brace so it still turns,attach a lever(silver solder)to the underside of the nut drill small holes into the lever to attach the wire which moves the switch..... 

Manfred


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I revised my design for the ground throws.


Here is the new and improved version of my ground throws. 


There is base plate made with 3/4 x 1/8th x 6 inch steel .

A 1/2 inch piece of 1/2 x1/2 x1/8th angle iron

The throw lever is 2inch of 1/2 x 1/8th steel 

1 6/32 screw with 4 washers 2 lock washers and a nut. 

1 6/32 screw with 4 washers to mount the angle iron 










Holes were drilled and taped for mounting of the angle iron and the anchoring of the base plate to the ties of the switch 

I put a washer, lock washer, washer, lever, washer, lock washer, washer, then the screw was inserted to the taped hole in the angle iron on the other side is a jam nut. 


I did it this way thinking the lock washers would act as a drag on the throw lever to hold it in place after it was thrown 

The lever is mounted on the diverging side of the switch in this case.

The lever points to the direction that the points are thrown.

Give you a quick reference as you are high balling down the track rapidly approaching the switch


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Cleaner. 
What locks them in place?







(edit) Wuld help to read, I just looked at the pictures....


John


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Totalwrecker on 13 May 2013 10:40 AM 
Cleaner. 
What locks them in place?







(edit) Wuld help to read, I just looked at the pictures....

John 

I have been known to do that. Especially when there are multiple pages. 


Of course everyone is quick to point out my mistake. 

JJ


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Very nice JJ, interesting evolution since you began talking about barrel bolt switch technique, well done 

Jerry


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Both ideas are good, but I kind a like the first idea best due to spring loaded points. So a train can go thro with out de-railing if forgot to throw the switch.. Also, if any long frt. cars, it low so over hang can swing over the slide bolt that can be locked. 
Just my two bits worth.. lol.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Morning JJ and others, 
I made something similar when down in Sun City, Arizona or the winter. I used some inexpensive cabinet latches that put enough friction on the throw plate to prevent it from moving when the train rolls over the points. I also used floral wire (has spring like properties) to make the flexible push rod. They seem to work well. 










I actually like the second one better and it was easier to build and install. The "springs" are easy and cheap and can be replaced in a couple of minutes. These have held up outside for over a year. I'm sure you can add details that would make them look more proto typical if you don't like the door latch effect. 

Ed


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Actually, I'll bet JJ's second version has a "spring" effect too. Once the weight of the bar stock goes over center it should keep the points against the stock rail. Conversely if a train tries to run through a closed switch it should give enough to let it pass through. This idea would need a free moving swivel point instead of the lock washer with semi tight fit that JJ described. JJ, have you tried it with a loose fit







The weight and length of the bar may need to be fiddled with for optimum results, but I think it has a lot of promise.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

No I have not tried anything different yet 

But I will try suggestions posted 

Right now I am back working on my layout. 

I will be installing more switches later and will make any improvements then 

JJ


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