# Wheels for aluminum rail



## dwalker (May 14, 2011)

I'm scratch building some wheelsets for my Fn3 rolling stock.
My layout has aluminum rail. 

I want to make steel wheels for the weight, but I'm wondering if it will wear down the aluminum rail.

Which would be better for wheels, aluminum or steel?


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## ralphbrades (Jan 3, 2008)

There is no problem with you using steel or cast iron wheels with aluminium track work. I would favour steel over aluminium for your wheels for durability. The reason is that your aluminium track has to take seconds of contact with your steel wheel -thus not wearing it much -whilst if the wheels were aluminium they would wear quite quickly. There are several suppliers of aluminium track work for 3.5 and 5 inch gauge here in the UK and most of the locos that run on it use cast iron or steel wheels -even for passenger work. If you are going to produce your own wheels from scratch then steel is your best bet. "Grey" cast iron can have quite a large crystaline structure and can crack easily in small wheels. 

regards 

ralph


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Steel is the way to go. Free machining 12L14 is the very best.


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I'm not 100% convinced that wheels have to be steel. If they are for a riding car or locomotive in a live steam scale, then yes they should be steel or cast iron. In smaller scales, track and wheels won't see loads anywhere close to significant. In such a case, a hard series 6000 or 7000 aluminum alloy will work just as well. If you want the wheels to be extra hard, they can be anodized. The only time wheels would see any wear, is when the wheel slides instead of turns on the track. Models scale down in dimensions, but not in weight. A 300000 pound locomotive doesn't scale down in 1/8 scale to37500 pounds. In Fn3 scale, that same weight would be 14778 pounds, over 7 tons.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Isn't there also the factor of "work hardening" of aluminum surfaces that also makes it durable? 

I remember years ago when people started making aluminum rear sprockets for motorcycles, we were in disbelief at first because we thought the aluminum would wear right away as compared to steel. 

The chain work hardened the surface of the sprocket and they lasted just fine. 

Regards, Greg


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Realistically speaking Gauge 1 rail will not "wear out" or work harden. The pressures, forces, speeds and temperatures are just not there. When turning your own wheels you want the most friendly material you can get. Steel 12L14 is absolutely the most wonderful stuff to work with, bar none it is the best. Brass 360** is creamy delicious stuff to cut too. Brass wheels don't look authentic, but it colors very well. Grade 40 cast iron is good material too. It is spun cast so it's clean throughout. You have to dig under or grind off the outside scale to get to clean metal under. For aluminum use Type 2011 T3. Any other aluminum will gum up the lathe tool and be a mess. 

Invest in good material when turning wheels. Go with 12L14 or 360 brass. 




** Don't confuse 360 brass with 260 brass. 260 is sheet metal from the hobby shops, that stuff is terrible miserable stuff to work.


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I machine 6061-T6511 all the time and find it to be a fantastic material. I think this material is easier to machine than any steel, but if steel works for you, great.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mr Ron on 28 May 2011 05:32 PM 
I machine 6061-T6511 all the time and find it to be a fantastic material. I think this material is easier to machine than any steel, but if steel works for you, great.

I am probably using the wrong tool. It always get gummy for me. I need to look into it.


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## dwalker (May 14, 2011)

Thanks for the input guys! 

I'm going with the 12L14.


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## TrotFox (Feb 15, 2008)

I turn 6061 with the same tool I use on steel... no problems. Hit it with a little rubbing alcohol for lubricant (careful of its flammability!) and it gives a beautiful finish, much nicer/easier than my experiences with steel. Granted, the tools came with the lathe and I'm not ready to buy new ones so I couldn't tell you what it's actually ground for.  

Trot, the money-less, fox...


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

Sharp tools and the right tool geometry is a must for any machining job. A tool for steel or aluminum won't work on stainless steel withoug changing the grind. steel and brass machine differently. A positive rake is used on steel and a negative rake on brass. Much information can be gotten just by reading catalogs that list tools for machinists. It will tell you which tool is best with different materials. For example, they will tell you to use bright HSS drill bits or coated bits in aluminum and not to use black oxide coating. It will tell you what drill point angle to use for different materials. The McMaster-Carr catalog is one of the best for information. You can access it on the internet at www.mcmastercarr.com.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I have been making wheels from brass for a long time and use them hard...no problems with wear. I would think the same will be true with aluminum. I use brass because I have it...I collected it over the years from scrap dealers etc. I also like it because it is easy to machine, as the right kind of aluminum would be. 

I have noticed that there is some wear on my wheels now that I think about it...the cheap Bachmann metal wheels are plated, The plating has worn enough on some cars that I can see the copper underplating...Must have worn off a little over the miles but probably less than one thousanth of an inch. maybe about one ten-thousanth. but who cares, that does not change the wheel shape enought to notice let alone cause problems.


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