# Installing windows



## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

I have several Grandt Line windows to install in various structures. Is it practical to install the plexiglass 'windows' that are provided or leave them open? My primary concern is the plexiglass will craze very quickly in the harsh Colorado sun.

Suggestions are most welcome.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i would say, that depends on if you want your buildings inhabited or not.

have you thought about using real glass?
(the slides for microscopes)


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

I have installed real glass with silicone sealant.


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

Yes, I have considered installing real glass and that is a great suggestion. Yes Korm, I do have microscope slide glass on hand and have seriously considered using it.

I don't have experience trying to cut microscope slide glass. Any suggestions/advise gentlemen would be greatly appreciated.


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## backyardRR (Aug 14, 2012)

I have built numerous Piko buildings and have always used the clear plastic window material provided with the kits. My main concern with leaving them out is that these buildings could become nice dry places for various bees, wasps and hornets. I suppose that small rodents could also find them to be relatively nice accommodations. I even glue the doors shut.


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

Yes, critters... I share the same concerns of not wanting to provide a shelter for any unwelcome guests. Here in the Front Range of Colorado, we have black widow and brown recluse spiders. The black widows don't bother so much, but I sure don't want any brown recluse around. No thanks!

I don't leave my structures out in the elements all of the time, so pests shouldn't be a problem.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Tenwheeler;

I don't know whether the product is still available, but decided to run this up the flagpole. I remember in the early days of the outdoor hobby that some folks put mothballs inside their structures. Most bugs and small mammals did not care for the odor at all, so they did not move in. It could be there are restrictions against using then outdoors, depending on locality, but it is worth checking out. Mothballs DO evaporate over time, so you would have to check inside the structures occasionally. 

Just a thought,
David Meashey


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used clear acrylic (PlexiGlass) from Home Depot on all my buildings. They stand up well being outside all year in New Mexico. I actually have more trouble with the styrene and cast resin frames.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I've used Grant Line windows in my buildings. I'm also in Colorado. They get a bit foggy (er, prototypically dirty), but they haven't (yet) turned yellow. I install them with clear silicon, so if they do need to come out, they're easy to remove. 

I leave my buildings out year-round, and the windows have held up very well. I've got a few panes which have fallen out every now and then (usually from me getting too close with the hose while watering the garden), but they're easy enough to re-install.

Later,

K


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the acrylic or lexon(?) from home depot. It is made for the sun and stays clear. Score it with a sharp blade and snap it off.


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

Thanks for all the recommendations/suggestions gentlemen. I am going to use the plastic windows provided with the Grandt Line windows and secure them with clear waterproof silicone. Thanks for your feedback Kevin - if it works for you in Denver, it will work for me.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Dave Meashey said:


> Tenwheeler;
> 
> I don't know whether the product is still available, but decided to run this up the flagpole. I remember in the early days of the outdoor hobby that some folks put mothballs inside their structures. Most bugs and small mammals did not care for the odor at all, so they did not move in. It could be there are restrictions against using then outdoors, depending on locality, but it is worth checking out. Mothballs DO evaporate over time, so you would have to check inside the structures occasionally.
> 
> ...



I use bits of mothballs where the critters chewed a door way into the car barn... works great. Replace as needed.

John


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Tenwheeler said:


> Yes, I have considered installing real glass and that is a great suggestion. Yes Korm, I do have microscope slide glass on hand and have seriously considered using it.
> 
> I don't have experience trying to cut microscope slide glass. Any suggestions/advise gentlemen would be greatly appreciated.


 I see by your post of 7/15, you've already found an answer, but if you do decide to use glass, there are numerous How-To videos on You Tube. It's simple, just remember to wear leather gloves when cutting and snapping the glass.


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

Update:

This past weekend, I cemented all of the windows supplied with the Grandt Line castings in the window frames. I started using GE clear RTV silicone waterproof sealant and found it difficult to apply to the edge of the 'window' using a small screw driver. The nozzle I used had been trimmed to a wide opening so that made it impractical to use.

I remembered from my HO and Sn3 modeling days, using Faller Expert liquid cement to secure windows in frames. Great - glad I remembered.

Process - remove the plastic coating on both sides of the window and drop in the window frame. Place the metal tip of the Faller cement in the corner of the frame and allow the cement to gravity flow and wick under the window. DO NOT squeeze the bottle! A small drop goes a long ways. Set the window and frame aside and allow to dry.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

'I don't have experience trying to cut microscope slide glass. Any suggestions/advise gentlemen would be greatly appreciated.'

Just put it on a smooth flat surface and run a wheeled glass cutter over it then hang it over the square edge of a work board with the score on top over the edge. Hold the glass down with one hand/thumb and bend what is overhanging with the other hand down - snap!

Best to use a quality glass cutter with a small tungsten carbide wheel. Dip in light oil to lubricate the little axle.
When scoring only just use enough pressure to get a 'zip' sound. If it sounds gritty you are pushing too hard. Practice first.
You only need to create a fine fissure in the surface of the glass which should be snapped straight away.

You don't need gloves if careful but never run hands over work area when working with glass because that's how you will pick up a small sliver in the skin - Ouch! 
A piece of wet n' dry over a block run diagonally along each side/edge/corners and all will be safe to handle later.

Andrew


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

LOL! I clicked on this thinking it had something to do with computers! Silly me!

Robert


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