# Nooob from IL



## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

Hey guys, great looking site... been looking around the last few days. 
Was wanting to do O scale for awhile after researching into it but i cant afford to get rid of basement space.
Where as G scale i can have outside and not take up crucial storage area to me  

I saw a chart around here earlier... cant find it though.
Broke down all the G Scale's since found out today theres like 6 u can run on G. 
So im a nooob on ALL accounts. 

But im really wanting G scale, diesel engines no steamers. 
any tips and advice you can give a new guy? 

Just wandering how cost effective is this going to be? 
i want a decent layout running around outside, i think it'd be a great time and i love trains. 
Saw that track for outside is expensive and same with rolling stock? 
maybe im just looking at premier type models? not sure.

Anyway any insight on how much fun this will be and tips etc will be appreciated, 

Thanks! 

Im in galesburg, IL, be cool if theres someone in the area within a couple hours with G scale... would really like to see in person before i commit.


Smitty


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want diesels, your choices will all be pretty much in either 1:32 or 1:29. LGB used to make diesels in larger scales, but not right now. 

1:32 is the correct scale for standard gage equipment running on "G scale" track. 1:29 is oversized, for the "wow" factor. USA Trains and Aristocraft make diesels in 1:29. MTH and accucraft and AMS make stuff in 1:32--I know that MTH makes diesels, not sure about AMS or Accucraft. MTH locos come with sound included, so they are more expensive out of the box. But you have to use their proprietary control system to get the most out of them. 1:32 is significantly smaller than 1:29


The track is really pricey. Aluminum is cheapest but less than optimum for track power. Brass is next, stainless is the most expensive for the most part. Standard G track comes in "code 332," which is oversized. Code 225 rail is cheaper and looks better to my eye. 

The engines and rolling stock are really pricey too--no way around it!


I should add I started a couple years a go with basically no experience at all, and now I'm running a DCC system with a bunch of locos and cars. it's a lot of fun--neighbors and kids come by all the time.


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

is there noticeable differences from 1:29 to 1:32 
ie diesels and rolling stock? 
can they work with each other or the differences noticable persay? 

what would be the better of the two to go with? 

only ones id like to run are BNSF. Santa Fe, or UP... Fe and UP i see once in a blue moon. but i see them up here. galesburg has huge bnsf yard so see those mainly. 

anywho. thanks for the help along the way guys.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, real noticeable, especially with diesels. 

Remember that 1:32 is always more expensive, MTH is more than Aristo/USA, and then it goes out of sight with brass. 

Although it is somewhat bastardized, go with 1:29, lots of locos available... 

Greg


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

thanks greg. 
Btw your website has alot of great information. 
Im having a good time reading through it  

i like bigger stuff o thats a + 
down side its expensive but oh well. 
i already have 2 expensive hobbies... going fast and vannin.


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Don't know how close you are to Albion Illinois, but there is a knowledgeable, and very helpful retailer in your state anyways. I'll post the link for you at the bottom, his name is Robbie!! Also I run diesels mostly dash 9's from Aristo, I have a U.P. Pa/Pb pass setup and a couple 3 steamers. Biggest thing I can tell you is don't go any smaller than 10 ft curves, use brass track if going outdoors!! If I can be of any help myself and 8 other guys on here are in a train group that have "live" sites you can go to and see what we have done, for some suggestions. I'll list myself and Noel who are the most active with our "live" sites!! Howard E of My Hobby Corner is a "live" steamer and excellent! Greg E. above is part of our group, Take a look at our sites and get some ideas. Contact me if you would like to visit. I'm sure by visiting our "live" sites you will get some ideas!! Regal



Crazy Train Guy's Garden Railroad Channel - live streaming video powered by Livestream 

Santa fe & Butthead Cove. R.R. - live streaming video powered by Livestream 

my Hobby Corner - live streaming video powered by Livestream

GregsTrains

geoff's garden railroad and...

the ALLY

Hedge Apple RioGram Rail Road - live streaming video powered by Livestream

Turtle Creek Garden Railroad - live streaming video powered by Livestream 


Here is the retailer I referred to, in your state, I would also recommend Trainworld too if for no other reason than to price compare! 

RLD Hobbies, LLC 

http://www.trainworld.com/


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## Santafe 2343 (Jan 2, 2008)

Smitty, 
You live in Galesburg, and if you want to see a layout, come over to Bloomington, Il, there is a nice one 5 miles north of here and there is one in Washington, IL Just let me know. Most of my stuff is Santa Fe, BNSF and UP 
Thanks, Rex


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By Santafe 2343 on 03 Jan 2011 09:31 PM 
Smitty, 
You live in Galesburg, and if you want to see a layout, come over to Bloomington, Il, there is a nice one 5 miles north of here and there is one in Washington, IL Just let me know. Most of my stuff is Santa Fe, BNSF and UP 
Thanks, Rex 
One of my Hero's.........


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 03 Jan 2011 09:58 PM 
Posted By Santafe 2343 on 03 Jan 2011 09:31 PM 
Smitty, 
You live in Galesburg, and if you want to see a layout, come over to Bloomington, Il, there is a nice one 5 miles north of here and there is one in Washington, IL Just let me know. Most of my stuff is Santa Fe, BNSF and UP 
Thanks, Rex 
One of my Hero's.........











Well you are..........


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

went to a hobby shop earlier. 
they had a few G scale items. 
couple diesels *yay* wierd looking one and one i want. a UP i think it's a Sd70? sound right? 
was sitting on the shelf and they pulled it down for me. i liked it and the whole WOW factor set in. 
Price on it was 300$ its a USA one also. 

its a nice RR shop too. 
the other one in the area has a steamer and some B units... so not really worth much there. 

So may start saving pennies and soda cans. 
Still gonna make my way within the next couple weeks to get out and see Rex and shoot the RR with him and get a better feel for it. 
But i think imma jump into this hobby. Seems like it'll be a blast. 
Im very good with gardening / landscaping. dont know how i ever came of this but always been fond of the two so it'll be nice to have the RR with it. 
Btw im 24.


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## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Code 225 rail does look much better than 332. However, the trade-off is that everything you buy has to be modified to run on code 225, unless it’s a finescale unit. I wouldn’t run anything that’s done to finescale outside. There’s just too much risk of damage. The nice thing about USA and Aristo stuff is that it’s durable. If a green pinecone blows off the neighbor’s tree and drops on your RPO car, it likely won’t trash it. Likewise if it rolls over on a turn.

Email me. I might be able to help you out with the track. That is, if you don't mind running on a mixture of Code 332.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

I run everything on my code 225 track (I think you mean code 215 for finescale). Even the LGB engines with the huge flanges don't have any issue with code 225 track!

- Andrew Finegan


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## RRwannabe (Jan 20, 2009)

Posted By afinegan on 06 Jan 2011 12:26 AM 
I run everything on my code 225 track (I think you mean code 215 for finescale). Even the LGB engines with the huge flanges don't have any issue with code 225 track! - Andrew Finegan 
Yeah, but that's also dependent on the ballast you use etc. I think its safe to say your going to have more problems with 225 on a blasated track than one that's on a raised loop. IMO oversize engines look better on oversize track.


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

guess imma have to do some searching here on different track.. 
seen it mentioned a couple times. 
ILL search. i dont wanna make a discussion about it. lol heard about lil post wars going on with rail. 

all i've seen so far is brass track with plastic ties. 

anywho


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

A lot of people run on code 250 with no problems at all. You have to order it from llagas creek or sunset valley RR. I suppose you could have more trouble if you used huge ballast. If you go to google and do a search for "mylargescale" and "code 250" you should find a lot. 


Cheapest track is aluminum, probably only really good for running the trains using onboard batteries, because it oxidizes a lot. 
Next is brass, the most common, good for all-round use 
Stainless or "nickel silver" are the most pricey and the most corrosion resistant 

For what it's worth, I have a combination of brass and stainless code 332 track. I don't see a huge difference between the brass and the stainless. Other people find that Stainless is WAY better. It depends a lot on local conditions. I do think the code 250 looks better, but in real life rail sizes varied a lot, and you might think it looks just fine. It's cheaper because there's less metal in it. 

You'll eventually have to decide between running on batteries or running on some form of track power. I ended up with a DCC control system and it's great.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

There are a good amount of choices out their and its really depends on what your going to run on it. No one solution is good for everything. 

I did a lot of research on track before I made my decisions. I usually build above ground tracks, run electric and live steam, and cost is a big factor. I have 2 sunset valley raised track installs, 1 LGB and 1 USA. Brass, Stainless Steel. Depends on how close you want to model the track or go for a "no fuss" size. Or something thats the best of both worlds. 

I refer you to this thread  

Look at the plentiful opinions on track: 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...ft/76209/afv/topic/afpgj/1/Default.aspx#78376


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I've heard of code 332 and code 250 and code 215, but who makes/made code 225?


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

ACK, I mean 250 - I think I posted that too late at night. 

DOH 

Andrew


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

is DCC track powerd units but ran by a remote? or hmm 
lol i've been trying to take a lot in so i may mess that up.


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## studeclunker (Mar 15, 2009)

Posted By Soaper on 06 Jan 2011 12:22 PM 
is DCC track powerd units but ran by a remote? or hmm 
lol i've been trying to take a lot in so i may mess that up. I believe that DCC is run by battery packs carried in one of the cars being pulled. At least, that’s one way of doing it. It is possible to do so from track power as well. In fact, I seem to remember an article in Garden Railways magazine on this very subject and one of the modelers mentioned in it did just that. The constant power enabled his passenger cars to be brightly lit all the time.

Speaking of which, Soaper, you might consider a subscription to Garden Railways magazine. It’s excellent! Just packed with ideas and sometimes included plans for various projects and items.


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

DCC is not what i want then i spose. 

I want it to be able to run offa track power. 
but be ran by remote so i can still control it. 
maybe its a form of DCC? im not 100% sure. 

yeah the garden railways magazine looks like a great mag to get. Ill have to get a subscription going next paycheck.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Whoa!!!! 
Go look at Greg E.'s site or George S .... you need to be set straight 

Geg Esselman; a link is in his signature. I don't tust my spelling of their names, didn't even try George's.... 

DCC is track powered. Digital commands are piggybacked on the rails and a constant power is in the rails. The decoder tells the motor and accessories what to do. You control with, usually, a wireless throttle/tx to a command station which sends out the signal/codes. 

Battery power can either be R/C or a version of DCC or Revo. Each has it's merits. 

John


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## Soaper (Jan 3, 2011)

Greg E, if he is the one with the huge steamer sketch in his sig then i've been on his site for the past few hours. 
Lot of valuable information there. + his layout is a nice work of art. 
ill see where it says electronics and such on his webpage... ill gander through that when i get to it  going through each link on there.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

DCC is track power and sends a command signal through the rails to decoders mounted in the locos. 


There is also Airwire, that uses an RF link to send the DCC commands to the decoder in the loco. This can run on batteries. I don't use it, but I have had a chance to play with one a little and it's pretty cool.

We also have RC options that can run either on battery or track and send control signals to a receiver in the loco. I use RC and batteries myself.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

There are three ways to run the trains 

1. via straight dc on the rails. Simple, cheap, works out of the box. Hard to run more than one train. Most everybody starts this way, lots of people still use straight DC. 
2. via DCC on the rails. "DCC" is a set of commands--basically a set of computer codes sent over the rails. You install a decoder in each loco, and the decoder translates the commands into speed, or sound, or turning on the lights. DCC lets you do a lot of very sophisticated stuff, but it's pricey upfront. This is the option I use 
3. via batteries and remote control. In this case you install a battery and a wireless receiver in each loco. Big advantage is you never have to worry about track conductivity. 

There's a fourth way, kind of a hybrid: you put straight DC on the rials, and send a DCC signal to a decoder wirelessly, OR, you can put a battery in the train, and send DCC signals wirelessly. 

There--that's just as clear as mud I'll bet! 

It's Greg Elmassian--his site is very helpful. You should also definitely checkj out George Schreyer's "Large Scale Tech Tips" (http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips.html)


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You can use wireless control of track power analog(DC) or DC. 
Same for battery and even live steam. There are many companies out there making various accessories for wireless. 

DCC has the NMRA for standards, so you are not linked to anyone company for the decoders. Many companies make the decoders. 

For controllers, you must pick a method and company that supports it. Transmitters and receivers are pretty much a single company when it comes to wireless. 

Get a subscription to Garden Railways (trains.com) for great info/ads by vendors on all aspects of this hobby as well as here on MYLSOL.


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