# MANUAL SWITCH THROW



## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

At one time a saw a switch throw made of the cheap dead bolt throws you can get at Home Depot. Like the one's they use on screen doors or Men's room stall doors

Any one done this or do you have pictures 

JJ


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Do they use them in Women's room stalls also? 

D


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Good memory, JJ- I remember seeing that idea

Is this it?

http://www.calvertcentral.com/groundthrows.html

Jerry


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

The one I saw had a V bend in the connecting wire to compensate for the bolt having more travel then needed.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OVGRS, Paul Norton.

Greg


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Yep, just like that, thanks Greg


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No problemo... part of having 13,000 posts is reading at least 10 times that number of posts and web pages... ;-) 

Although I don't want to think of how many I have forgotten ha ha! 

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

woow, I did not realize you are a poster child.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, surprisingly I read more than I post. 

Greg


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Morning gang, 
I know that this thread sorta died in November, but it caught my attention and I've decided to try and do a few modifications to the simple idea....I know, I'll just muck it up. Ha. I like the spring idea in the picture that Greg posted. The typical (since I have bought several to test) throw of the door latch is 7/16" of an inch. But the latches also have a groved catch that allows about 1/16" of play....which is tricky if you are trying to keep the switch rails firm against the guide rails and thus not allowing a derailment. The one issue I am playing with is keeping the 90 degree rotation of the latch from affecting the extension spring and the switch slide from rotating. I also want to have the same manual movement operate a switch indicator for the "engineer". I'm getting closer and will probably either add pictures to this posting or start a new one in a couple of days. Thanks for the initial comments (John, Jerry and Jeff). It has provided many hours of experimentation and fun. 

Ed


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't know if will make any difference, but when ever I made hand operated switch machines, in the UK it is usual to use an Omega shaped spring .


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Rod Fearnley on 10 Mar 2013 01:45 PM 
I don't know if will make any difference, but when ever I made hand operated switch machines, in the UK it is usual to use an Omega shaped spring . 




Hey Rod

Can you buy these Omega shaped springs preshaped or is this basic design you shape yourself?

Gots not pictures?

JJ


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

JJ it's many years since I made any of these, I've been in "G" for 28 years now. However, we used to be able to buy little bits like this in the old style Hobby shops. But, it was quite easy to make them yourself. I used , what we call piano wire. Quite stiff and retains it's springiness (?) when bent in to the Omega shape.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

John and Rod, I make my "springs" from floral wire....buy it for $1.39 at Michaels Crafts store. Had a time finding it, but the staff can help. It comes in a paper envelope wrapper, the wire is about 1/16" of an inch in diamater...maybe a little less. The wire lenghts are around 16" each and I think you get a dozen of them. They are prepainted green and are used to support the stems of real flowers. The are stiff, but can be cut with a pair of wire cutters and using needle nose pliers, bent rather easily, might want to use a vise for an extra pair of hands. Piano wire is much tougher, but I haven't found a good source. Maybe you can try this and see how long the "spring" retains its shape. 

Ed


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Alright, I think I have this figured out. I have a couple of pictures that might be helpful for what I producted from a previous idea posted on MLS. I am still trying to figure out what sort of latch to use, but here is what I have made so far. I did drill a small 1/16" bit hole in the end of the barrel to insert the floral wire. I also used it to build a "stem" for the manual portion of the latch. I find that the five minute epoxy works well. Not sure how long it will last in the Arizona heat, but I saw someone indicate that "maintenance" is part of the hobby fun....


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm glad this was resurrected since I'm thinking about doing the same. A great idea to use these bolts but I wonder how they wil hold up outdoors? There are galvi ones but those tend to be bigger and are the smaller cheaper ones really be impervious to rust? Can the bolts be easily drilled through for the spring wire?


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

All that thar reedun is wat got Greg so dang smart and whys I lik himun input. ;-)


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By cape cod Todd on 11 Mar 2013 08:40 PM 
I'm glad this was resurrected since I'm thinking about doing the same. A great idea to use these bolts but I wonder how they wil hold up outdoors? There are galvi ones but those tend to be bigger and are the smaller cheaper ones really be impervious to rust? Can the bolts be easily drilled through for the spring wire? 
Todd,
They make smaller Galvy bolts too.
With a sharp bit and oil should be easy to drill, it's a mild steel that will bend a tad rather than shear off. That's the force it was designed to solve.

JJ,
an omega....









John


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If it was me, I'd see if the solid brass ones are still available. Of course the price might be way out of sight! That would eliminate any rusting issues. 

If I had to buy steel ones, galvanized or not then a regular shot of anti-corrosion spray would be the maintenance I would expect. 

I've used many sprays, but I find the "marine rated" ones most effective, this is my current "favorite"

http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Heavy-Duty-Corrosion-Inhibitor-10-oz-CRC/dm/view_id.71166?cm_mmc=Google_Main-_-Mall+Product+Listings%3AGoogle-_-+%3AMall+Product+Listings%3AGoogle-_-CRC&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKTY2bbT97UCFa9aMgod9wMAIw


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I also like marine grade protectants

This happens to be my choice for tough corrosive environments


http://boeshield.com/

Boeshield T-9

Jerry


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

I think I bought some ground throws made of material that resembles engineering nylon at ECLSTS a couple of years ago. They were offered by one of the manufacturers that only makes track and turnouts. I just can't remember which mfgr. at the moment.

Dang senior moments!

Anyway, someone with a Garden Railways magazine may try checking the track ads and their web sites. I doubt that these ground throws would cost more than solid brass toggle bolts.

Just my $0.02,
David Meashey 
P.S. If I don't get sidelined, I'll check them tonight.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have that one Jerry, it's a bit thinner bodied, and does not put on as heavy a coat and cling as long. Short mostly white can. I like the thicker stuff for the mechanical things and holding off rust. 

(I bought one of each at several supply stores ha ha!) 

I use the T-9 on exposed electrical parts some times... 

Greg


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

I'm in Arizona....rains about 3-4 times a year....what is rust? We still have 1931As running around with original blocks...no rust. Anyway, I did find that the combination of 3 in 1 oil and a 1/16" metal drill bit worked fine. I could drill a hole about 3/8" deep into the handle and the end of the barrel using a Dewalt hand drill. Drill press would have been nice. WD-40 still works well if you need to keep them clean. My issue is still how to work around the 90 degree rotation that the door latch delivers. I like the cabinet slide bolt since that doesn't affect the operation.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Well folks, I found the ground throws. They are made by Llagas Creek Railways and the current part number seems to be LCGT-35. The bad thing is I remember paying between six and seven dollars for them at the show, but the Llagas Creek Railways site now lists them at $15.75. Perhaps the dealer I bought them from was trying to get rid of his stock. I don't know anymore. But the way it looks right now, solid brass toggle bolts would be more cost effective. Sorry for getting anybody's hopes up.










They are nice ground throws. The throw rod is counter sprung. Too bad they are so much $$$.

Happy hunting on the toggle bolt end, David Meashey


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I still rather pay for the tenmill ground throws. 
I can cut corners in other areas. 
Switch Crafters carries them at a reasonable price. . I just ordered some.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

There is more info on the Llagas Creek ground throws in this post. 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/9/aft/127423/afv/topic/Default.aspx


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had one of those for years, not sure why I have not used it. Habit I guess.


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