# Kaydee question



## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

I seen this topic before but I can't find it now. 
I wan't to put Kadee couplers on my SD70, USA freight cars, USA bay window caboose, and a gp7. Any ideas on what would work best. I don't plan on every having less than 10' curves. 
Thanks


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

Go to http://www.kadee.com/ 

You did not state your scale so do not know whether you should be using the "G scale" couplers or the #1 couplers ... 

Regards ... Doug


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

He's mentioned all 1:29 equipment, so I imagine he wants the #1. But then, some guys like the G Scale coupler 'cause it's bigger and handles bad track better.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

I truck mounted 831's on everything, and they work great!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The "G" scale coupler is intended for larger scales... the #1 was intended for 1:32.... 

That said, the facts are that the #1 is closer to scale for 1:29 than the G scales 

For someone starting out, the G scale ones will be more reliable. 

Moreover, for people just starting out, the conversion kits from Kadee generally are only for the G version, they often either cannot be used or need modification for #1. 

Regards, Greg


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

I see you planing on using 10' curves, with 10' curves you would be better using body mounted couplers, they are a little harder to install but they look much better, they don't sag, and they allow you to back up your train...below is the URL for Kadee conversion page as to which size to use the, choice is one you have to make, the installation of either size coupler is exactly the same smaller '#1' which is the correct size for USA equipment, or the larger 'G' coupler is more for 1:22.5 or 1:20.3 scale...I model in 1:20.3 narrow gauge so I use the 'G' couplers, if I were to model in 1:32 or 1:29 scale I would us '#1" couplers because the are the correct size....

here is the Kadee conversion page


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I have to second the body mount advice, my min diameter is 10' and body mounting all cars and locos made a big difference in reliability, and the length of trains. 

I have mostly USAT freight cars, and the G scale 830's bolt on in 5 minutes. Do the 820's bolt on or you need a shim? I think so. 

So for me the G scale was easier, and more resistant to uncoupling from vertical curves. 

My advice is to look at the cars and locos you have and research the amount of effort so you are not unpleasantly surprised. 

Regards, Greg


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09/20/2008 6:56 PM
I have to second the body mount advice, my min diameter is 10' and body mounting all cars and locos made a big difference in reliability, and the length of trains. 
I have mostly USAT freight cars, and the G scale 830's bolt on in 5 minutes. Do the 820's bolt on or you need a shim? I think so. 
So for me the G scale was easier, and more resistant to uncoupling from vertical curves. 
My advice is to look at the cars and locos you have and research the amount of effort so you are not unpleasantly surprised. 
Regards, Greg





Who said G scales not fun??? heres a video with the g scale couplers. i like them better email me if youd like install pictures 
Nick


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## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks for all the help. From the conversion lists I think the G scale will be easier with USA freight cars. I didn't see anything for the Caboose. Is there a body mount for that or just truck mount? Or is it too short for a body mount? 

I also believe I read where someone used something other than the 836 or 831 on the SD70 but I can't seem to find it when I search. 

Thanks again for all the help 
Rick


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Just checked, I left them truck mounted, 831's, screwed right on, although I dumped the problematic carbon brushes and put on LGB ball bearing wheels (they have better power pickup). 

(2 ball bearing axles and 2 non-ball bearing, since the wheels are a bit different in size). 

I have mostly USAT and AML freight cars, and the Kadee 830's bolt right on just a few minutes. Very convenient and the coupler height is spot on. 

As you probably know, Kadees are more sensitive to being at exactly the right coupler height. Taking care here results in much better operation. 

Body mounts also control coupler height much better, which means you can set the uncoupling lever height just right, and then uncoupling is very reliable. 

Regards, Greg


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## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks Greg. Looks like I will be off to St Aubin for some 830's and 831's. Doing my part to help the economy LOL. 
Rick


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By castlebravo on 09/21/2008 3:35 PM
Thanks Greg. Looks like I will be off to St Aubin for some 830's and 831's. Doing my part to help the economy LOL. 
Rick





Before you go do not count out the 789 body mount coupler. 

It has the same box as the 831, but it has a straight shaft coupler, it offers the MOST latitude then the 830. 

Yes it will take some adjustment work adding Evergreen plastic shims but you will be happier then if you used the 830's. 

Great if you run on 10' curves always...but lets say you take it to a friends house that has 8'OR smaller, the 830 do not like tight curves..yes I know they bolt right up to USA and possibly bachman..BUT you will be happier with the 789s'. 

Don't let the adding shims scare you..it did me at first, but after doing a car or 2 it becomes totally easy! 

I also use truck mount 831 couplers, as stated by Don Hofshier, but I use them for shorter trains, I use both the 789 and the 831. Those are one of my standards on my layout. 

Backing up my trains into my storage in my garage has such an incline and it has a couple of switches and the truck mounted dont like a lot of weight to push against so the derail themselves ALWAYS, if I back up a long train. 

Most if not all of my trains have 789s' on them...and a few still have 831's. 

Just my 2 cents. 

Bubba


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## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks Bubba. I guess I will look into that one also. I hope St Aubin has them in stock so I can get a good look at them. It is hard to tell what your getting from the pictures on the net.


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

While your at St. Aubin's you should buy Kadee's height gauge It makes installing and adjusting the couplers much easier...


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## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

I will do that also. 
Thanks, Rick


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Hehe









In photography, you have to pay attention to what's going on in the background. It's even more important in video. Listen closely to the start of that video.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Since there are several options here, I would suggest trying both on a few cars... If you lived nearby I could give you a few 831's... 

Seriously the comment Bubba made about backing up truck mounts is also an important item. I wanted to do a lot of switching and operations, so backing long trains happens. I have friends that love their truck mounts, and Bubba is right that there are differences in swing between the 2 types proposed for body mounts. 

Also, people do modify 830's on occasion for more swing, but then that is balanced by ease of installation, etc. 

Try a few and see how they work on your layout. 

Regards, Greg


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## Guest (Sep 23, 2008)

Posted By Torby on 09/22/2008 6:37 AM
Hehe








In photography, you have to pay attention to what's going on in the background. It's even more important in video. Listen closely to the start of that video.



Hey Tom YOU TRYING TO GET ME IN TROUBLE...HE HE HE


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I just put kadee 820's on the USA wood chip car. Took a few minutes, mostly for the paint on the shims to dry. I used an 830 box to size the plate (USA provides holes in the underframe) then I put the 820 on the shim. Used a kadee guage for height and it works fine. 

Body mounts look and act great. They aren't that hard to install. By about the third car, they went on pretty quickly.


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## castlebravo (Jun 9, 2008)

I hope St Aubin has some mounted on their cars. I'll find out when I get off work early enough to shoot out there.


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