# Question about EPL and voltages



## cenright (Dec 27, 2007)

I've been outside all day trying to get my railroad running.

It's a dogleg with reversing loops on both ends controlled by EPL (sort of automatic K/T reversing loop found in the LGB book).

The main line track polarity is switched by a 1203 double pull double throw accessory in one of the switches. I'm always having trouble with that switch not throwing all of the way and then the train stopping when it comes to the main line.

I can usually get it working, but today having major trouble. I was trying to narrow it down to mechanical friction or electrical. I tried all kinds of stuff like cleaning everything, re-stripping wires to get new connections everywhere. Still having trouble.

I have a 5amp Bridgewerks transformer. I measured around 23VAC coming out of it to the switch system. 


When I stop the loco with magnet over the 17100 reed sensor to throw the switch, I measure only about 12VAC at the switch itself. Is this normal?


I thought I'd see the full voltage, or is there that much of a drop from the load of the switch? I'd really like to solve this.

Thanks,

Chris


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, this is probably not what you want to hear, but electrically controlled switches are not, in my experience, reliable outdoors on an extended basis. My suggestion is to get rid of the reverse loops and run a parallel track between the end loops, life will be a lot easier. In my part of the country, Virginia, all the EPL machines filled with mud, ants, and the iron components rusted. Open up your machines and see if they are clean and free of rust.

Chuck 

PS, they did work in Colorado for couple of years. Indoors is an entirely different situation. 20+ years ago when I was using EPL switch motors, I was less that happy about the performance of them using the AC tap on my power supplies. At that time someone in the Denver Club suggested getting a 24v AC transformer from a hardware store. It is designed to power lawn sprinkler relays. It worked magic. All my switches moved strongly and secured in place.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By cenright on 25 May 2013 04:29 PM 
I've been outside all day trying to get my railroad running.

It's a dogleg with reversing loops on both ends controlled by EPL (sort of automatic K/T reversing loop found in the LGB book).

The main line track polarity is switched by a 1203 double pull double throw accessory in one of the switches. I'm always having trouble with that switch not throwing all of the way and then the train stopping when it comes to the main line.

I can usually get it working, but today having major trouble. I was trying to narrow it down to mechanical friction or electrical. I tried all kinds of stuff like cleaning everything, re-stripping wires to get new connections everywhere. Still having trouble.

I have a 5amp Bridgewerks transformer. I measured around 23VAC coming out of it to the switch system. 


When I stop the loco with magnet over the 17100 reed sensor to throw the switch, I measure only about 12VAC at the switch itself. Is this normal?


I thought I'd see the full voltage, or is there that much of a drop from the load of the switch? I'd really like to solve this.

Thanks,

Chris




The problem is typically inside the 1203. Remove the screw and observe the contacts as they go through their motion. You will find that one "lags" the other and may not even be throwing all of the way. CA a shim to the red tab to take up that slop. I've had to do a few with shims to make them work right. I use pieces of Plastruct plastic.

Yes, the 12 volts is normal. You are reading half of the ac input because there is a diode creating "half wave" dc.


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## cenright (Dec 27, 2007)

I did some more work on the switch today and got it working. I disassembled the electric drive and re-timed the rack and pinion which really helped a lot. The switch was replaced a few months ago, and the 1203 was replaced today. Everything is pretty clean. I agree, this stuff isn't super great for outdoors over long periods of floating debris gunking it all up. 

I wonder what it would take to convert the system over to MTS with the double reversing loops and the 1015 T/K tracks installed?

Chris


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Since MTS is really 10 year old technology (14 speed steps only, no read back with the hand helds) I would select a different system and there are many out there. 
The more you spend, the more features you will get. 

Several systems will allow you to go over 24 volts, and I would never go for less than 8 amps and prefer to go 10 amps or more now. 

DCC systems do not use the diodes that the 1015k has, but these can be removed and the 1015K becomes just a dual gap in the track, then add the DCC reverse loop unit. 

Biggest problem with the LGB EPL units is that the micro switches do not activate at the same time, thus a short is created and that is why you must take them apart and shim them. 
Newer style 12070 has metal tabs that can be bent.


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