# RDC-3 Modifications



## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Just received my new Aristo RDC-3 in New Haven paint. First impressions are good. "Looks" like a New Haven RDC-3 EXCEPT it is waaaaay too bright and clean!!!! Looks like weathering is in order. The other thing that bothers me is that it sits too high off the rail. Measured the wheels with the calipers and found they are 40" diameter which is not really a surprise since they used the FA/U-25B motor block. We won't get into the fact that the wheelbase is too long. In any case I'm thinking that to lower the unit I could replace the 40" wheels with NWSL 34" or 36" wheels which are correct for the prototype RDC's (first units had 33" wheels, but the bulk of the units had 34" wheels). Also thinking of fabricating a new metal truck bolster to lower the unit even more.

Comments??? Ideas???

Mike McCormack
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

I think for the little bit that you are lookin to lower it too, it might be better just to leave it alone. Dont tell anyone, but i think Aristos finally getting the message about QC, I like the 2 i received and they look and run good as well......


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

You might get it to low and then the undercarriage components start to rub on the rails. later RJD


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Replacing the wheels would lower the car about 1/10" on the frame, which I don't know you'd even notice unless perhaps both cars were sitting side by side. If you can replace the wheels easily, by all means do so for no other reason than to get a more prototypical wheel profile. The wheels on Aristo's are just funky looking. I think, however, that if you were to give the trucks a prototypical bath in grit and grime (and perhaps paint them black if that's what the NH did), then they'd blend into the shadows and you'd probably not notice anyway. I didn't find the body to sit objectionably high on the trucks (unlike Aristo's early streamlined passenger cars), and when comparing it to photos, it looked "good enough" to my eyes. The overall shortness (and especially the shininess) of the Aristo unit stuck out more than anything. 

But then, I've never known you to shy away from a mechanical challenge...  

Later, 

K


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

A new truck bolster would be a worth-while venture. I would make sure to add the side-to-side ability to rock in order to smooth out tracking. Ideally, the axle ends should extend into sprung journal bushings like the real deal.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Unfortunatelythose where the old style trucks AC use and now the newer versions no longer have the axle extending into the journal. I guess if one wanted to use the older version some can be found. Later RJD


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

I think the design change was a big mistake. I would have replaced the brass bushings with ball bearings or even just bronze bushings. After acquiring a taste for 1:20.3, the only AC locos I kept were my old REA FAs from the early nineties. ...that said, the improvements to the 1:29 rolling stock were done very well.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

The AC truck is still a 3 point suspension and the whole truck can rock enough to deal with wavy track. It is a design change, but not a bad one. The ball bearings, while not designed to transfer current, do work well and they don't wear like the old bushings. The contact is more reliable, the load bearing capability is much higher and the bearing friction, especially with added weight, is much lower.


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*I am posting these photos for Mike.*


*Left side of Photo Modified Unit*
*- Bottom of Pilot is now 6 scale " off the rail.*












*Modified truck on Left - Stock on Right*
*NWSL wheels and modified Bolster.*











*>K*
*>But then, I've never known you to shy away from a mechanical challenge...  *
*"Kevin you know me too well - Mike Mc"
*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, would love to see a shot of your modified bolster! 

It definitely looks a lot better! 

Greg


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## Boston Maine Mike (Sep 20, 2010)

Ditto on Greg's comment!

I need bolsters for two units please... they look to be outstanding work!

Best Regards,

Mike


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*I am posting these photos for Mike.*


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

And i thought you posted them for me with the new revo????????????????? and i thought we were Freinds Rays pants............


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, I asked first and Ray dissed me too! 

Oh the humiliation! 

Seriously Ray, pretty darn cool, soldered up out of flat and C channel. Where did you find the C channel brass? 

Damn, you ARE resourceful! 

The other Greg


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*re: Resourceful

..Na..Its the difference between: *
*Boy's and their TOYS - AKA MicroLux Mini Lathe and
Men and their MACHINES - AKA Bridgeport Lathe....;^)....*

*Mike_Mc and Gilbert play with soldering and BRASS STOCK. -
I'll stick to soldering IC's and posting photos of THEIR metal handy work.

re: Dissed
Dang keyboard - I typed FROM MIKE and it typed FOR MIKE...;^:....*
*as in from "He still has ALL his fingers Mike McCormack" and not me*
*"ALL THUMBS the_Other_Ray".
*


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Many thanks to Ray for posting the pictures. He's much better at this 'puter stuff than I am. I specialize in taking perfectly good raw brass and tuning it ito scrap brass. 

Greg: The channel was milled out of a solid block of brass, mainly because I had it and have a mill. I have two other units to convert and have begin the search for suitable stock that doesn't need milling. I'll advise if I find anything usable. Otherwise it's a pretty straightforward fabrication. 

Mike: If I find suitable channel stock more bolsters are possible. Milling out of solid just takes too long on a Sherline mill. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Great stuff guys! 

Yeah, hogging a C channel from solid stock has to take a while! 

Were you able to buy wheels from NWSL recently? The last 3 times I called, no one knew the part numbers for wheels on the Aristo blocks, nor the price, nor if they were in stock. 

Have they improved? 

I'd like to make up a set, my poor little Unimat 3 will be similarly challenged. If you could share a couple dimensions, that would be great... looks like all I would need is the diameter of your bolsters on top, and the flat stock thickness, the height of the mounting posts inside. The rest just needs to fit the block pretty much, and your mounting post must be a little under 1/2" tall. 

Nice work and clever way to fabricate a part that is normally molded plastic. 

Regards, Greg


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Thanks for the kudos Greg. 

I emailed NWSL to order the wheels and got an acknowledgement the following day, but they did not indicate a delivery time. It turned out to be 25 days. Now I just emailed again this past Wednesday to order another set, and the silence is deafening, no response yet. As an aside, they have publically complained about people bugging them on delivery dates, the way to stop that is to acknowledge the order and give an estimated date. Why is it so difficult to do that? I don't know. But anyway, the part number is 2607-6, #1 Aristo RDC Car, 33"/270 NS wheels ("screw secured") at $39.95 per set and $5.95 shipping. 

Let me give you some dimensions in my next email. 

Mike McCormack 
mocrownsteam 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mike, thanks a load! 

You decided on the NS wheels and not the SS ones? Ahh. I see that part number but no number for the SS ones. I guess the 270 is 0.270" tread width. I sure wish they would spec the flange depth. 

If you are track power, are you happy with the NS wheels? I'm sure they are way better than plated steel, but I was concerned that NS might still get some oxidation. Do they stay shiny? 

Sorry to ask all the questions. 

And yes, the need to "Ack" your order, it's not hard to send an email. I ordered last may, and never got anything, gave order on phone plus my credit card. 

I know it's a lot of work to run a business, but don't whine about it if it's tough. 

Thanks for all the info Mike! 

Greg


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Greg, 

Yes, the NS wheels seem to stay pretty shiny. The 270 is the tread width. The flanges are not gross like Aristo, but are definately not finescale. I think they used to bill these as a good "compromise" flange. I just ordered a second set through their on-line store function using PayPal. It will be interesting to see how long it takes to get the order. Why not try that route? I think calling is not going to work as you don't get to talk to the folks "in the know". 

Some measurements for you. The top plate is .032 brass. The round spacer pieces on the top of the plate (bolster pivot points) are 3/32 brass rod. The spacer between the top plate and the motor truck mounting ears is .482" long. (Trying to match the metric dim. of the plastic item). It's threaded 4-40 which clears the hole on the mounting ear. You may have to open it up a tad with a drill to have a loose fit to allow a little adjustment. 

Mike McCormack 
mocrownsteam 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mike, I want to send you a private email, can you email me with your email address (I've disabled the private messaging here), just email me at [email protected] ... just want to ask you about posting your pictures in another place. 

Regards, Greg


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Greg, 
Sent you an email with my address. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Mike please try again, did not get the email. 

Greg


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Greg, 

Tried again, but it looks like it didn't make it to you. So, try mocrownsteam-AT-verizon.net. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## mocrownsteam (Jan 7, 2008)

Greg, 

It's been too long a day. I can't even type my email address correctly. Try mocrown AT verizon.net. 

Mike McCormack 
Hudson, Massachusetts


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

*Another "Message in a Bottle" arrived from Metal Munching Mike 
for your reading and viewing enjoyment.*

*>*
*Ray,*
*Here is the latest attempt at lowering an RDC-1. I think this way is less work than fabricating new brass bolsters. 
This method recesses the stock truck up into the body of the car, thus achieving the same result as the fabricated bolster. 
I milled the extruded aluminum floor to get the mounting holes out of the extrusion in a "square" shape. 
I made sure the hole was large enough to allow truck swing on curves. I then milled the brass mounting bars to size 
and attached the "square" mounting hole unit to the brass bars, and then attached them to the aluminum extrusion. 
You will have to mill clearance holes in the steel weight, but it takes less time to do this than fabricating new 
brass bolster units. 
An even easier way is to not mill the brass bars at all, but make mounting spacers to the correct height 
and then screw the "square" mounting hole piece to the bars.*
*Mike*


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