# Bonus Room G scale Wall Train construction log.



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I have decided to build a indoor wall hugging G scale layout in the upstairs bonus room (AKA man cave). It will be mainly for display and storage.
This project is expected to take months to accomplish so i though i would log the progress and lessons i learned along the way.

So the train will basically run along the wall at a height of about 3 foot using about 90 feet of track.








More to come.......


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## MJSavage (Dec 27, 2007)

That will be great. Does that say "Bridges" under the stairs?

Mike


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

I had a set up like that, I took it down because the noise was extreme. This brass track over carpet felt underlay. The problem was using metal wheels on the cars, plastic wheels are alot quieter


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

Perfect - exactly what I'm planning in one of the rooms in my new house.

So I will be very interested in exactly what you do.

I need some sort of lift out bridge where my door is.

Right now I'm deciding if it makes more sense to use wall brackets to support the road bed around the room or use table legs.

And the comment about some noise dampening - very useful.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Why not use sound deadening material like Dynamat?


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

After shopping around,, i discovered the cheapest i could find shelf suports was about $1.30 each for cheap little metal ones. I would need about 20 of them which got me thinking, "can i do this for less?" I decided just to get a $5 dollar 2x6x8 and make them myself.
You can tell by the brand names on my tools that i'm a bit of a cheapskate


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

HomeDepot has this 3.25x8 primed base molding for $3.66 (online order only) It's the lowest price i could find for a non-pro consumer such as myself.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgrai...nger-Jointed-Base-Moulding-10000558/203209372








Flipped upside down, this will look good on the wall between the shelf supports and it will add support to the shelf.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What curvature are the corners? Not R1 I hope.

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> What curvature are the corners? Not R1 I hope.
> 
> Greg


Good point, this is something i considered as well. This is a functioning room so pace is an issue here. I opted for 5' diameter( 30" radius) in the corners. Clearance for long cars has been verified. Im not going to be running any Hudsons or BigBoys  and the engines and cars will be speed governed to scale narrow gauge. mainly the track is going to be for storage and display but i thought it would be nice to have a running loop .


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

MJSavage said:


> That will be great. Does that say "Bridges" under the stairs?
> 
> Mike


It's a upstairs room, the Bridges will actually be visible on the wall as one ascends the stairs.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I was able to zoom the picture, it says R1/30 degrees...

You should realize R1 is 23.6" radius, 47" diameter, less than 4 foot, not 5 foot.

This will severely limit your trains, but it appears you realize that.

I'd take a long hard look to see if you could live with something a lot less "tight"

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Shelf supports painted and ready to be mounted









After dwelling on it a bit i realized regular wood screws might not be the best for this system as they could easily split the wood. So i found these large head wood screws which should hold well. Even so, i still will have to be careful.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Welcome to MFM! Measuring Fail Monday!








Never assume any building you are in is level


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

the progress thus far.








Whew. time for a sandwich


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## MJSavage (Dec 27, 2007)

You should have trains running in no time at all!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I was able to zoom the picture, it says R1/30 degrees...
> 
> You should realize R1 is 23.6" radius, 47" diameter, less than 4 foot, not 5 foot.
> 
> ...


Good points Greg. I was measuring O.D
I think the LGB 1500 might be a better choice, but im already past my budget. Humm
This is quickly turning into a "in for a penny, in for pound" project.
Maybe i need to start selling railroad stock shares LOL


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## rpludwig (Dec 27, 2007)

have a similar (smaller) layout, one loop, one bridge, ceiling layout though, used 1x8 pine supported by 2 1/2" metal angle brackets from above @32" o/c into studs...your brackets will work well....had it up and running in a few days after paint. Trimed the inboard edge with base cap molding to finish it off...used R1 corners, running no long cars and moderate speeds...suggest you take Greg's advice and run wider radii if you can...fwiw....


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good! And stronger than those metal ones


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't mean to keep hammering on you, but if you say "well I have the R1's now, and I can change them later"... consider that the common history is "human inertia"... right now it is easy to change your mind and go bigger curves.

Later, it will be a much bigger project in your mind, pulling things apart, etc.

Trust me, over the years the number of people who fell in love with some rolling stock that would not run on their layout, it's high and common.

Just asking you to think deeply, once it's up, it's there.

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Well, it looks like R3 is out of the question as it would encroach too much on the traffic area of the stairway. I might be able to get away with R2 but not sure if that would really help considering an additional $140 and only gain a a couple inches in radius.
Decisions decisions


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

I agree with Greg.

R1 should be your very last option.
Not only do trains look funny going around R1 (unless all your rolling stock is very short), but a lot of G-scale equipment won't make it around R1 and you have constant problems.
It's really only LGB that goes through great pains to make all their equipment R1 compatible - a lot of USA Trains and Aristocraft equipment requires even just slightly larger radii.

If R1 really doesn't fit - I think R2 is definitely worth considering - or what about flex track - then you can add an easement to the curve which really helps with smooth running.

Not rally sure where your $140 extra comes from - did you allow for the fact that with R3 you need fewer feet of straight track compared to R1?
And if you're starting from scratch buying track, I would seriously consider code 250 rather than code 332.

Knut


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

To heck with the small inconvenience on the stairway.

Why don't you list out the locomotives you want to run and see which will actually work on R1 track?

You cannot even run a USA Trains F3 unit on that track, a short locomotive... or an RS-3, etc. etc... all you will be able to run is LGB locos with a lot of overhang (which means $$, so don't complain about $140 worth of track!!) or really short steam locos.

You are painting yourself into a corner. Forget the extra cost of track, it is nothing compared to the restrictions and extra cost of the locos that WILL run on R1. Look at the big picture, and the future. Restricting yourself now will last the life of the layout.

Greg


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## du-bousquetaire (Feb 14, 2011)

I would certainly add my grain of salt in that direction of making that radius as large as can possibly be, unless you plan to model traction or rapid transit prototypes or very very small narrow gauge. We in live steam recomend 10' minimum radius. for standard gauge 1/32 or 1/29 rolling stock and even on that curve a big boy looks really weird!
This is the most common beginners mistake, after you find that you have to rebuild the whole thing again , that's when many give up.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Progressing slowly. There is going to be a lot of caulking and nail hole putting to be done. This has to be done in a style that blends with the existing trim or it could negatively effect the resale value of the home.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think you will find that you have to take it out when selling the home anyway. A full interior repaint is usual when selling a home.

The number of buyers that appreciate trains is pretty small, read the forums, very few people want the outdoor layouts too, no matter how nicely landscaped they are.



Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I think you will find that you have to take it out when selling the home anyway. A full interior repaint is usual when selling a home.
> 
> The number of buyers that appreciate trains is pretty small, read the forums, very few people want the outdoor layouts too, no matter how nicely landscaped they are.
> 
> ...


That's true for sure


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

But they are a thing of beauty to us!!

Greg


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I agree on the radius topic. I run LGB equipment, since I prefer the small European prototype. R1 does work okay for the small engines (bogie engines run well too, but look weird) and wagons. But R3 is so much better if at all possible.

I'd accept the intrusion into the corner of the stairs.

One thing to consider, if it works for you, is to bring the railway out from the wall in places, and get some flowing S-turns in. I think this greatly improves the look of a running train.

It's not necessary to use only a single radius, either. You could go with tighter in one or more corners where space is at a premium, and loosen it up elsewhere for appearance sake where space is available. (I've been contemplating bringing my HO back out for my home office, and this is the track plan I came up with.)

This would call for a bit of a redesign from the brackets and shelf, but sometimes it works to go in front of another object. For example a corner bookshelf in a corner can actually be behind the track.


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## SophieB (Nov 22, 2015)

Something else to consider is track wear. Even small trains will grind down R1 brass track fairly quickly. We had a display at a Christmas show last year that had trains running for a total of maybe 30 hours. With an LGB Stainz, a power tender and two-axle HLW mini's running on a track with 4 foot LGB brass curves, when we took down after the show there was an impressive amount of brass dust under the track and a visible bevel on the inside of the curves.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

R2 ordered. 
i can't go much wider than that and still fit the furniture in the room LOL


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You will be happy you withstood all this abuse ha ha!

Good for you!

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

SophieB said:


> Something else to consider is track wear. Even small trains will grind down R1 brass track fairly quickly. We had a display at a Christmas show last year that had trains running for a total of maybe 30 hours. With an LGB Stainz, a power tender and two-axle HLW mini's running on a track with 4 foot LGB brass curves, when we took down after the show there was an impressive amount of brass dust under the track and a visible bevel on the inside of the curves.


It's interesting you should say that. There is a section of actual rail road track not far from my home, where the track bend is unusually sharp in fact the track is banked heavily in that section. The inside rail is worn down nearly to the narrow part of the rail and there is metal shavings and piles of rust along that inner rail. It's something i personally have not seen anywhere else.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Really looking nice!!

Rare to see a layout opportunity that has no doors to contend with. And that's a great solution on the stairway -- it'll be quite dramatic looking!

If you sell the place, you've built in a beautiful wrap-around shelf that the new owners can modify however they want.

And if you stay, you can always put in a nice peninsula for a town, and then maybe another one after that... 

Cliff


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob:

Just an additional note about tight curves on the prototype. In the latter part of the 1980s I worked at the Virginia Museum of Transportation here in Roanoke, VA. There was a Coca Cola bottling plant opposite our facility, separated by the Schaffer's Crossing yard approach tracks and Norfolk Avenue. At least once a week a string of twenty or more corn sweetener tank cars cars would be shoved into the bottling plant, and the empties pulled out. During that move, the wheel flanges howled like banshees. I never got to inspect the rail on that curve, but suspect that it also had a fair amount of shavings present.

On the model track, I suppose the plastic wheels would wear first, but metal wheels could be another story.

Your construction is really looking great.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Have a look at TrainLine R3 turnouts (same as LGB R2 curves) if you need to keep things tight. Only a little longer than typical LGB R1 turnouts but much better.

Andrew


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok new layout with R2 curves and now "proposed"  half bath and closet.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob;

A friend of mine had an O gauge (3 rail) layout traversing the upper 2 feet from the ceiling in his basement. There was a station located just above the top tank of the toilet in his half bath. The station's name was (appropriately) *Potter*. Thought I should mention that should you want to follow suit.

Have fun,
David Meashey


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

A passing siding along one wall would be very beneficial.

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Two trains alternating in opposite directions would add some interest.

Greg


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

It also saves adding and removing locos and cars manually on the track all the time to clear the way. The unused ones can be parked or run as a separate train. If the siding is along the straight you can use a minimal track spacing if necessary.

Andrew


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Oh Come on guys!  You're trying to turn my wall train into a functioning layout LOL


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

What about a turntable for a Big Boy? 

Andrew


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You could put some R2 switches in the corners that lead into short stub tracks for loco and car storage.

Greg


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

At least put in a passing siding over the toilet.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

So i won these 6 turnouts for $48 delivered on EvilBay. Guess i could add them to one side and rig up some sort of Harp or Stub switch levers.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

They look like R1, not good for much for regular trains. could be used for a short siding, but not to run a loco through, and the curve would be too severe on the corners.

If you do make a passing siding, don't use R1's

Did you check what model/part number they are?

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I was thinking they might be OK for a parking rail.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

They look like LGB R1 (2ft radius) with 11 ties.

If you are tight for space, the below TrainLine R3 ProSwitch (Equivelent to an LGB R2 curve) will work better while only a little longer than an LGB R1 switch.










The 'R' number is different between manufacturers. Refer to the table in the link below but ignore the first 2 lines as they also make little sense. 
A TrainLine ProSwitch R number is the approximate radius unlike LGB R number. 

https://www.trainli.com/straight-p-55

ProSwitch R2 = LGB R1. 
ProSwitch R3 = LGB R2 (Curves only. LGB don't make an R2 switch). 
ProSwitch R4 = LGB R3. 

If you are using flex track, you could use the LGB R1 switches just for now and swap them out later by cutting the rail back a little to accommodate the slightly longer TrainLine switches.
It is also nice to have some straight leading into the switch points but that will shorten your siding if along the straight. Even a little will help avoid derailments but that set-up will create an S bend which may give you trouble with couplers on long cars. It may be better to have the switches as a part of the curve but then you will have to at least match the 3ft curve radius.

Andrew


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Progressing, two corners done. Learning to cut the shelf a bit fat for trimming and shaping because apparently sheetrockers or framers are drunk by the time they get to the bonus room. 









Had to make a fold down area for the attic access


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Checking clearances on the old number 12.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Beauteous!


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## MJSavage (Dec 27, 2007)

Looking good!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice solution for the attic access!

Great to see a train on the track!

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Just made my first purchase from OzarkMinatures for some harp switches. I would of preferred to order from Tracksidedetails because most of their parts are brass cast as opposed white metal. but alas ther website seems to be kaput.

Weird,, i can't get to the Tracksidedetails web page but i can search and order some of their products from the CabooseHobbies web page . I thought Caboose Hobbies had gone out of business?


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## perego (Feb 1, 2017)

Steel wheels regards noise is a catch-22 being plastic ones leave track residue. At a recent train show one manufacturer rep told me they have a new plastic formula that reduces residue.
For tight curves I really like my "Clementine" pulling short ore cars and a small caboose. 
Looking good, enjoy.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

perego said:


> Steel wheels regards noise is a catch-22 being plastic ones leave track residue. At a recent train show one manufacturer rep told me they have a new plastic formula that reduces residue.
> For tight curves I really like my "Clementine" pulling short ore cars and a small caboose.
> Looking good, enjoy.


Yep i suspect there is going to be quite a bit of noise on my wall train, all my wheels are metal


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## krs (Feb 29, 2008)

OldNoob said:


> Just made my first purchase from OzarkMinatures for some harp switches. I would of preferred to order from Tracksidedetails because most of their parts are brass cast as opposed white metal. but alas ther website seems to be kaput.
> 
> Weird,, i can't get to the Tracksidedetails web page but i can search and order some of their products from the CabooseHobbies web page . I thought Caboose Hobbies had gone out of business?


The Tracksidedetails website is under construction.
All you get now is Dave's phone number and email.

You can look here to see if you find the items you want:
http://www.warriorrunlocoworks.com/trackside.php
and then call or email Dave to see if he has the items in stock.

Warrior Run Loco works is out of business but Caboose hobbies I though are still in business.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

krs said:


> The Tracksidedetails website is under construction.
> All you get now is Dave's phone number and email.
> 
> You can look here to see if you find the items you want:
> ...


Thank You


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Thought i might fill in this little nook with a couple of small buildings or a small Depot. What do you think?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Wonderful idea, and great lighting & scenic opportunities. You could make a spur and create a depot as you mention, or an industrial scene involving a mining, logging, warehousing, whatever you wish. 

AND, you could pick one or two small other places in the room for another mini-scene, but leave everything connected exactly as you have it. Package the mini-scenes to take with you, if you have to move. 

Back to the corner. You could also, at a later time, cut out your shelf and make a trestle and an entire canyon scene, complete with a "distant" (HO or N scale) town on the mountainside, all gently moonlighted with a small LED surface lamp planted in the underside of your stair, with animated...

oops, I'm going off the deep end...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Places to store trains while on the rails is always a good idea.

You could make some hidden storage, etc.

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Garratt said:


> What about a turntable for a Big Boy?
> 
> Andrew


Humm,, I could make it a revolving coffee table


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

OK, I'm freaking out a bit. 
I had expected and calculated that i would have to make some cuts and special length pieces for the track to fit properly,,, But So far on three walls, every piece is just falling into place in seemingly perfect lengths.
Which makes me fear that there is some horrible misalignment waiting for me somewhere.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

krs said:


> The Tracksidedetails website is under construction.
> All you get now is Dave's phone number and email.
> 
> You can look here to see if you find the items you want:
> ...


Warrior Run is back in business. Clem relocated/rebuilt after the fire.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Now making tracks into "Piddlin Station"


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok here comes the hard part. I am going to need to bridge about a 10 foot span.
Do I..
A. Add a couple hundred to the project and have a custone truss bridge built?
B. Spend another 50 bucks in supplies and try to make the bridge myself,, which may take weeks and weeks and no doubt be full of aggravation. 
OR 
C. just continue the shelf around and put up some railing or Pony truss type sides?


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

It took a moment to understand the geometry, and correct me if I'm wrong. The stairway is on the left, and you need to bridge over that, to get to the far stairwell wall, right? 

Some folks (like naptowneng / Jerry) have made nice long bridges out of a length of rectangular aluminum tube, which you can get at a local metal supply house. With plastic vertical angles and paint, he made look just like a girder bridge. Or, you might be able to buy a pre-made or kit truss bridge, it you want a wooden look. 

Point being, you may want to build short shelves to allow the track to curve into the straight bridge and serve as its "abutments". A small metal plate beneath the shelf's edge could catch the end of the bridge. That way, you can have a straight bridge section that you can clip in, and perhaps take out for later detailing / upgrading.

Also, have you considered a siding along your half-wall? I know, that would be living a little dangerously... but you could make a short wall on the stair side, for safety. 

Cliff

PS, that's a mighty fine study-hideaway!!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

CliffyJ said:


> It took a moment to understand the geometry, and correct me if I'm wrong. The stairway is on the left, and you need to bridge over that, to get to the far stairwell wall, right?
> 
> Some folks (like naptowneng / Jerry) have made nice long bridges out of a length of rectangular aluminum tube, which you can get at a local metal supply house. With plastic vertical angles and paint, he made look just like a girder bridge. Or, you might be able to buy a pre-made or kit truss bridge, it you want a wooden look.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the thoughts, very helpful.
About the half wall,, i have a bad tendency to knock just about anything i sit on it off. I once sent a 1/72 model submarine i was working on into a literal "Crash Dive" off that shelf. It wasn't pretty


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## MJSavage (Dec 27, 2007)

I would go with option C and you could run trains now and still have option A & B available for the future.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

MJSavage said:


> I would go with option C and you could run trains now and still have option A & B available for the future.


Great Point


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

OK,,,
After sitting back and looking at the stairwell and dwelling on it, I have come to the following conclusions.
I can't just carry over the shelf, I will have to instead use a removable bridge to fill the gap. Here's why.
This shelf, around the wall, sticks out 7.5 inches from the wall and is pretty much solidly attached to wall and this house will be on the market in a couple years. Since it sticks out so far, it might hit someone on the head or shoulder as they near the top of the stairs. This might cause some injuries. I would hate to cause someone to hit their head or possibly fall down the stairs. In addition, removing the shelf would require sheetrock repairs since the trim is nailed and glued and the supports are screwed, glued and caulked to the shelf and wall. So...
I have decided to use a bridge to connect the curved shelf in one corner to the half wall at the top of the stairs. This way i can remove the bridge if i sell the house and i don't have to worry about the next occupant injuring themselves on the shelf.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

The bridge build in the following link is INSPIRING! But a lot of work that requires patience. Might be beyond me. 
http://gscaletrain.blogspot.com/2011/03/g-scale-train-bridge-from-scratch-03-15.html


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

One other idea, about using the shelf on the half-wall. You could make a removable shelf, with a back on it. Say, an L-shape made of 1x6's or 8's, painted like the rest. A minimal number of screws could secure it to the existing shelf, and allow its quick removal. The back board would be for fall-prevention.

At its end, at the top of the landing, could be a hinged segment to the opposite wall. 

Just thoughts, FWIW.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

CliffyJ said:


> One other idea, about using the shelf on the half-wall. You could make a removable shelf, with a back on it. Say, an L-shape made of 1x6's or 8's, painted like the rest. A minimal number of screws could secure it to the existing shelf, and allow its quick removal. The back board would be for fall-prevention.
> 
> At its end, at the top of the landing, could be a hinged segment to the opposite wall.
> 
> Just thoughts, FWIW.


Yep thats how i thought i might attach the bridge.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

So today, i was testing the rolling stock in the R2 corners, sending them trough at various speeds and weights. All cars did well in the turn with no unusual bogging down in the turn EXCEPT,, the Caboose, which would derail intermittently.
After pulling apart the truck and inspecting and lubricating, i tried it again and the problem persisted. After staring at it a while i noticed the axles were nearly a full 2mm shorter than my other cars. The inside wheels were literally falling off the rail. Has anyone ever experienced this with a Bachmann 4 wheel caboose?









UPDATE* Turns out it was an easy fix just twisting the wheels a bit to open up the gap. Apparently the plastic spacing piece on the middle of the axle had shrunk a tad with age which affected the wheel spacing.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good to take a set of calipers and set ALL wheels back to back properly.

NMRA has specs and so does my site (referencing the standards)

While there you can lube your axles... Since you are indoors, I'd suggest dry lube, like powdered moly. Make sure there is no oil or grease in the journals first.

Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Good to take a set of calipers and set ALL wheels back to back properly.
> 
> NMRA has specs and so does my site (referencing the standards)
> 
> ...


Thanks Greg, that's going to be some helpful resources. I figure some of my stock is over 30 years old and probably does indeed need to be checked out.
Now why do you advise dry lube over synthetic plastic safe grease?


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Been thinking about the bridge and i have decided since it is going to be indoor, that i would go ahead and make it from the plywood scraps i have left over. Today while at the Hardware store i noticed a clearance priced gallon of paint that had apparently been mixed wrong and rejected by a previous customer, but i saw it and noticed that it's pretty much the perfect color for my bridge. So that was a pleasant experience.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

From my site:

(there is a page on lubrication)

*Dry vs. wet lubricants:*

I prefer to use dry lubricants for situations where there is plastic on at least one bearing surface, like most wheel journals. The dry lubricants tend not to gather grit. The dry lubricants I recommend are graphite/molybdenum mixtures. The "moly" tends to "plate" the plastic and works very well.


When it's metal to metal, then I like a lithium-based grease with moly in it. Again, the moly tends to "plate" the surfaces and make them very slippery.


Oil is usually good on the rods on a steam loco.


The smaller moving parts in valve gear will take a "light" oil.


Grease is good for sleeve type bearings where there is a higher load, and grease on the gears.


On motors, a drop of oil on the shafts, and heavier oil on really big motors.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok i narrowed my bridge option down to ether a simple truss or Bow truss design.
I like the look of the bow truss, although i am limited to a 12 inch height with my current materials


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wonder if the wife will let me do this to the living room? Hmmm. Very nice work.

Chris


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

up9018 said:


> Wonder if the wife will let me do this to the living room? Hmmm. Very nice work.
> 
> Chris


Thank You Chris.

Now attacking the final wall.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I'm too old and fat to be standing on a ladder that has all the structural integrity of a wet noodle.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

These are good things to put on the ladder tips, protects from damage to wall too...


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok the final wall has been prepared and the ocean depths filled in. Now to bridge the gap









UPDATE* Accounting has informed us that the bridge must be built under cost and with second hand supplies. What could possibly go wrong with that thinking?


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Starting the Bridge. I'm not going to try to copy any particular bridge or try to reach any level of accuracy. The goal now is simple completion of the circuit.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

looks good. how do you plan on cutting out parst inside of the bridge?

keep us posted!


Nate


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Holy Holes Batman!








Seriously, My kingdom for a plunge router!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

humm, maybe not pretty or but it was somewhat quick and i still used scraps.








Now to do the other side, the bottom and the other parts.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

OldNoob said:


> humm, maybe not pretty or but it was somewhat quick and i still used scraps.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks really good! if it is made out of plywood, may i suggest staining your bridge instead of paint? I think it would look better stained.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Tomahawk & Western RR said:


> Looks really good! if it is made out of plywood, may i suggest staining your bridge instead of paint? I think it would look better stained.


 I really should stain it. but that would mean sanding off all the old paint from the scrap plywood. humm something to consider.



This turning out to be to be some sort of crucible for the poor little Ryobi Jigsaw.


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## rpludwig (Dec 27, 2007)

might want to consider this as a finish....eze...

nice work on your layout!


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob;

That bridge is really shaping up! I doubt that I could do as good of a job cutting the pieces out. You will have a great looking bridge.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Thanks David

I decided to go ahead and use the graygreen paint i had bought on sale, it looks ok i think.

BrainStorms can make life complicated.
Today i was rummaging through some parts bens and refound some wee tiny nails that i had forgot about,,. And boom! the brain storm hit. I grabbed a old moldy piece of paneling in the garage and started cutting away. ( i hope i don't get sick from breathing the old mold dust.)

















So the bridge has now grown from "Simple" to Semi-complicated.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

now starting two more sections


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

What about guard rails? angle aluminum? actual rail? How do i secure it to the LGB track?


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Nibbling away at the scrap bridge bit by bit.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Getting near completion. Just have to attach the arched truss.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Lookin' mighty fine!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Thanks Cliffy

OSHA requires I add a hand rail, apparently so the little G scale people don't fall off and sue me. Well, there go my Tomato cages.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Progressing, almost there. I think i will be OK with this color. but it changes with the type of light it's in.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ugh, installed.
Cost in materials $28 dollars
Cost in compressed vertebra,,, Priceless.


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

Nice! soon ready for a train.....


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Time to go Fishin


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

That is just great! You really gotta be happy with that, people will drop their jaws on the steps and trip for sure!!

Nice color scheme too, I really like the maritime feel. Almost like the stair well is under water. 

Cliff

PS, maybe later on, add a harbor seen in the middle of the room....


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

well, im getting reminded of just how handy a resistance solderer would be.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Nice bridgework!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Mike Flea said:


> Nice bridgework!


Thanks Mike.

Well here it is, the first run of the Wall Train. It's a bit blurry because i haven't figured out camera settings yet.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Soundtrack?


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Dwight Ennis said:


> Soundtrack?


No, just lowered the tone a bit (a lot).


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## Wesley Furman (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice project and only 66 days. Congratulations.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Great job!! Congrats!!


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Dwight Ennis said:


> Great job!! Congrats!!





Wesley Furman said:


> Nice project and only 66 days. Congratulations.


Thanks guys.
I have a question though, at some point i will be replacing the turnouts with hand built ones as a future project, but for now, i was wondering if i could deepen the grove a bit at the crossover area? The wheel flanges are hitting the plastic grove and raising up , making the motion of the train look too "bouncy" as it travels over it. Any thoughts on that?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Set your wheels to NMRA or G1MRA standards first, flange depth, flange thickness, back to back and gauge.

I'll bet the crossover is probably correct, or not as far off as you think.

Please check the standards... save yourself from making modifications that are not the best idea.

This page may be helpful: http://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=85&Itemid=110

Regards, Greg


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Thanks Greg ill do that.
One more run with better focus.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok so ive decided to do a sort of "Mayberry" themed 1/24, or near-about, diorama in one corner of the Walltrain.
But im not sure how i will go about it. I could purchase a large print from one of the artist below,, or i could try to build the buildings.
http://www.davebarnhouseart.com/gh/DisplayLargeImage+Username=barnhouse+ServiceName=NewReleases+PIC=15+Prefix=Large


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob;

I like the first example because it shows the most characters from the television series. The disadvantages include that the setting is at dusk. and it appears that there was a recent thunderstorm. 
But it does draw the viewer into the scene.

Yours,
David Meashey


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

The brick wall panels from 'Colorado Model Structures' closely resemble those in the pictures.

http://www.coloradomodel.com/babmain11.htm

I used them to make an industrial façade for my layout, and will probably be getting more soon to make a scene not too different from the one posted here.


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## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

ThinkerT said:


> The brick wall panels from 'Colorado Model Structures' closely resemble those in the pictures.
> 
> http://www.coloradomodel.com/babmain11.htm
> 
> I used them to make an industrial façade for my layout, and will probably be getting more soon to make a scene not too different from the one posted here.


Definitely some things i could use there. i may have to determine building height by scale brick count.


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