# Aster S2 photos



## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

Since the Aster S2 are beginning to ship a few days ago, somebody will received the engine in these days. Will you please care to post some photos of the final product and comment about the use and for those who received a KiT commnent about 
the assembly.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

I have seen the prototype here in the UK and noticed that none of the controls can be easily reached especially when the loco will be moving I understand that this loco was designed to be radio controlled only, can anybody tell me if this is true /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Tony the controlll layout is not like Berkshire or Mikados where they are in a common manifold. They are seperate fittings in the boiler picking up steam in the steam dome. The cab space is more compact on this engine and this arangement does leave more space for R/C. Remember the rear/center of the cab roof comes off ( see pictures on the web site) allowing plenty of space to get at the controlls. It was NOT designed for R/C ONLY. This has been done by Aster many times before, I am sure it was done on the BIG BOYS, and I think it is more common then the arangement on the Berkshire and Mikados. 

Privero, when the Berkshires came in Hans posted a picture of one of the boxes on a pallet jack with the dimensions and weight. I just checked his web site and did not see any mention of the S-2's having arrived. I don't know if he will do that again or not.. We will have to wait and see.


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## danielstroka (Jan 10, 2008)

The Asterhobbeyusa site was updated today. There is a picture of the GN S2 shipping carton and the production model.


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## Dan Pantages (Jan 2, 2008)

Hans shipped GNS2 kits yesterday, May 28 and RTR GNS2's today.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

WOW! The S2 on the photo looks with more detail than the previous photos. It is said that the production model will have some wood on the top of the tender. I could not notice that on the photo. Perhaps later we can see more photos.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

Also, I read that the production numbers of the S2 are 250. I wonder if this will be accurate. For example, the Berkshire engine says on the home page (ASTER DEALER) a production of 300 units. My RTR Berkshire, in the box, says 225 of 250 units. Is there a mistake on the homepage? or they are going to sell as a rerun later on 50 units they have store?


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Hey, I wouldn't lie awake at night worrying about it, as long as yours is one of the 250.  

tac


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

I got my S2 kit today. For those of you who have kits, make sure you look under the packing slip for a replacement whistle lever. Mine says S/N 051/257. Why 257?? AsterHobbyUSA website says that they have built some extra all-black versions so maybe that's it. 
Well packed with triple boxing as seen below. Now the fun starts.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Privero, On the Berkshire production, the complete run was 300 total units. It was originally planned for 250, but with strong sales they produced an extra 50 units. As for how the last 50 are numbered you can contact Hans by email and I am sure he will tell you. I think there are a few dealers with the remaining stock.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

What does the Aster engraved number plate say on it for the 51/X quantity? I bet is says 250. The number 257 outside the carton reflects the extra black boiler models as you said. I can't wait until my GN carton arrives! 

BTW, Hans has posted some instruction clarifications on the Aster website so print them out before you begin assembly


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

GNSteamer, 
I can't tear into all those boxes right now to find the number plate./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif 
Maybe someone else is already building theirs! 
Hans hasn't yet posted the errata on the AsterHobbyUSA website. But thanks for the heads-up.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

Please guys, more photographs of Kits and RTR S2 engines.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Interesting...Hans must have pulled the instruction correction because I was able to downloaded from my office earlier today. There weren't many items at all.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Main131 started another thread asking about pics of the S-2, so I thought I would bump this back to the top. Also I noticed Hans has posted 3 pages to down load with a few clarification on assembly and some building tips. Anyone taking photos as they build? /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blink.gif I know... who wants to read this forum when you have an engine to build.../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif 
Jeff


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Hi Jeff, 
I will be posting some pics of the S2 assembly as time permits. I sent Hans some additional minor errata which he may or may not post. 
Here are the first pics. 

Cylinders left and right 









Cylinders front 









Wheels 









More to come.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Here are some pics of the chassis assembly. 

FRONT VIEW 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/k5pat/Aster%20S2/chassis%20front.JPG 

MIDDLE VIEW 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/k5pat/Aster%20S2/chassis%20middle.JPG 

REAR VIEW 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/k5pat/Aster%20S2/chassis%20rear.JPG 

FRONT CLOSEUP 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/k5pat/Aster%20S2/front%20closeup.JPG 

SIDE VIEW 
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/k5pat/Aster%20S2/wheels%20side.JPG 

The chassis assembly took most of the day. It's tedious work especially if you put all the suspension hangers on the wrong side of one frame :crazy/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gifDon't ask!) Lots of small parts and loads of screws. 

_(images converted to links - exceed 640 pixel max. width. - K)_


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good Pat, thanks for posting. I like the all black wheels.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Seems like the S2 is a great kit with many hours of successful moments in building the locomotive.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

What's with the pilot beam? Did the milll slip machining the top surface? If I can figure out how to post pictures here, I will post extensive assembly photographs.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

The parts itself look so fantastic. I wish somebody post some photos of an RTR S2 engine. It is said that the production engine is more beautifull than the pilot engine we all saw by photos.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Harlan, 
It's a blemish in the paint. It looks a lot worse in the picture than in reality. The reflection from the light caught it at a bad angle. My lighting was poor in those last pictures, I'll do better next time.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

More S2 assembly photos 

Cylinders installed 









Combination lever 









Axle pump bypass, cylinder draincock lever, blowdown valve (opposite side) 









Chassis complete full view 









Ready for valve timing


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## Zonk (Feb 20, 2008)

if you can, build an adapter valve on there so you can run it on air. its always best getting the running gear as square as y ou can before you run it on steam, even though its still going to run different on steam and under a load. 
But so far it looks great! Sure looks like its going to be a beautiful engine! 

Oh, and p.s. that Walchearts running gear is easier to time over stephenson any day! Have fun!!!


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Zonk, 
I definitely plan to run it on air after setting the timing. Aster provides instructions on how to use their existing fittings to run it on air. 
One thing different on this engine, you cannot run it by jacking up front and rear on blocks. When suspended in mid-air, the drivers drop down and rub on the brake shoes. They will not freewheel. I would have to remove all the brake shoes and hangers which is a pain. I'll run it on rollers for the air and steam test.


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## Zonk (Feb 20, 2008)

Well thats probably even a better option, that way its still going to be under some load. I cant get over how nice the workmanship is. That is true quality!


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

You're making great progress! This is going to be one gorgeous locomotive. How many hours do you have into the assembly to this point? How is the quality of the fit and finish of the parts?


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

If you do not have any rollers you can always run it on a sheet of glass


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

GNSteamer, 
I have about 10 hours so far and am ready to air-test the chassis. Up to here it's been tedious work with all the small parts and many, many screws. Several parts have a "Left" and a "Right" version and you have to double check that you put them in the right place. 

Some filing and fitting is required, more than on my previous Aster kits.


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## Jim Overland (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for the photos! 
jim o


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## Rob Meadows (Jan 6, 2008)

I appreciate the photos, am enjoying your build.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Grr, if I only wasn't buying a house right now.... 

Ahh I am only 29 so I have a long way to go  

Keep the photos of the build coming, I love small intricate machines! 


Andrew


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

If you model the Great Northern, the S2 is a "must have" model as most model companies are pretty much set on producing Eastern railroad prototypes or as the other 'A' model manufacturer kicking out just about every SP prototype locomotive. Until the S2, the choice in live steam for a GN modeler has been limited to non-existent. In fact I modeled my Aster Mikado loosely after the GN heavy Mikado several years ago where Hans has posted a photo of it on the U.S. site. It might be nice to see something out of the Northern Pacific roster of steam locomotives from any of the two manufacturers. 
Pat, 
I am noticing from your photographs so far the Aster lineage and progression of live steam locomotive model design. I didn't buy the Berkshire, but I do see many similarities in the assembly and sub-assemblies to that of the Mikado, and knowing what I learned in assembling the Mikado, should make assembling the S2 that much more enjoyable or frustrating. I'll be sure to have my metric taps on hand to do any clean-up of threads. BTW are you using Loctite 222 on your fasteners?


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

GNSteamer, 
Yes, the S2 is very similar to the Berk in the chassis design. But, as best as I can remember, the Berk was easier to assemble with less filing and fitting. I haven't had to use any taps on threaded holes, but have had to file a few mating part holes that did not line up with the threaded hole.


I am using Permatex #24024 (purple) which is made by Loctite and equivalent to Loctite 222. I am also using Loctite 290 (green) wicking threadlocker on the screws that need to be removed and reinserted after fitting. That way after all the fitting and adjusting is completed, I put a tiny drop of #290 on the exposed threads and it wicks into the end of the screw. However, on all the running gear I used the permatex.


As far as the Mikado, it was a breeze compared to the Berk and S2. My Mikado needed no fitting or filing and ran like a swiss watch first time and every time. I did add ceramic wicks which improved the steaming somewhat, but the original wicks worked fine.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmm, strange to find the Berk and now the S2 should have to be filed and fettled on something as expensive as these. My friend has just completed the Aster SNCF 140C and has had to do the same to a point of on the Green version having to paint many fittings and pipe work Green as they only came surplied in Black something I don't think we should have to do. 
I must say I have built a few British locos (Battle of Britain) and the new 9F and they have gone together with no problems at all, do you think the person behind ordering which loco Aster should make is not making sure everything is 100% before going into production? I know Andrew Pullen has a lot of input into his locos which is why they are so precise and perfect.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

do you think the person behind ordering which loco Aster should make is not making sure everything is 100% before going into production? 


Not a chance. There is no one any more dedicated to these projects then Hans. It's a kit, is not part of the building experience a little fileing and fitting?


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

I agree with Steve, Hans is very conscientious when it comes to the quality and accuracy of these models.

Unfortunately he cannot put together a kit prior to the production run so he has to rely on the Japanese model builder who assembles the first prototype to convey any problems with the fit/finish of parts. He also has to rely on that guy to write the assemby manual, in Japanese, and then Hans has to get it translated into English that we can understand. I'm sure you guys remember years ago the first Japanese manuals on your camera, VCR's , etc. They didn't make much sense. 

Lots of work. I'm sure he earns his profits. It has to be a labor of love.

I'm not so much complaining about the filing/fitting as comparing this model to previous models I have assembled.

In case you are wondering how the air-test came out, I am out of town this weekend so the air test will have to wait till Monday./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Tolerances build up. Parts, during manufacture/fabrication, can be slightly different due to wear of the machinery. Temperatures affect sizes. The person doing the assembly might hold some parts sllightly one way or another against the tolerances. All this means that after several items are assembled the total dimensions are just far enough off that the next part needs some "assistance" to fit. 

Woodworkers just pound the nails in harder or warp the boards to fit. Metal working is a whole 'nuther matter. Futzing and fitting are part of the process.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 06/07/2008 11:28 AM

Woodworkers just pound the nails in harder or warp the boards to fit. Metal working is a whole 'nuther matter. Futzing and fitting are part of the process.




being a carpenter I wish you could pound and warp try that on dovetail joints which have to be perfect


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I said, "woodworker" not "craftsman"!  

Me? I'm a "wood butcher".


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

It's hard to imagine how big this loco is could maybe we see the chassis next to something to see the size of it


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

There ya go - 

Length: 981 mm (38.62 inches) 
Width: 106 mm (4.17 inches) 
Height: 156.5 mm (6.16 inches) 

Wheels - 
Drivers: dia. 61 mm 
Pilot: dia. 28 mm 
Trailing Truck: dia. 35 mm 

tac


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Anything modelled in 1:32 scale is 3/8" = 1'-0", Has anyone else but Pat started building their S2 care to share build photographs?


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## Ron67 (Jan 14, 2008)

I am building the black version and spent about five hours assembling both cylinders. I am taking a slow deliberate approach to make sure I get everything right the first time. So far I'm very excited with the process and outcome. I am taking lots of pics but don't know how to add to the forum.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

For you to post pictures on here you need to be a 1st Class Member which means you have to pay to post pictures /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

You can host photos on another site and link to them here. Photobucket is one place.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Here is a pictorial comparison of the S2 and Mikado sizes.



Cowcatchers even 











Rear of Mikado is 6" shorter than the S2 











This is a big engine!


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Here is the air test of the S2 chassis on rollers. I am using a cheap airbrush pump which puts out about 20 psi. I have not sealed the steam chests nor the temporary air fittings so there are lots of leaks in the system. As you can see, the running gear starts up easily in forward and reverse. It was pretty easy to set the timing just by following the pictorials and description in the manuals.


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## Zonk (Feb 20, 2008)

ya, you definitely need a regulator! " border=0> 

It sure looks great! Keep up the work i cant wait to see it done!


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't know how the instructions for the S2 go, but on the Mikes they said to put "bathtub caulk" on the gaskets to put it together. I was told by the dealer (and have read elsewhere, like here on MLS) to use steam oil instead, so the parts can be taken apart more easily if necessary. I did it that way and it seals very well and has NO risk of getting that sticky caulking compound on something that it should not get on. I have opened the steam chests on on of my Mikes about 3 years after the assembly (and many hours of run time) and it didn't even damage the gasket in taking it apart. Another good coat of steam oil and it sealed up just fine afterward.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

The Mikado instructions say to use silicone caulk for the steam fittings similar to using the teflon plumbing tape in life size plumbing. 
Silicone is used because it is resilient to the effects of heat. Used sparingly, just enough to coat the threads, the excess ooze is wiped off when the fitting is tightened. If you can remember the gaskets on the Mikado are simple paper cutouts and are supposed to be coated with a thin coating of the silicone caulk. I cannot see how the use of steam oil in the place of the silicone caulk "packing compound" could maintain a steam tight seal. The heat of the boiled water and steam would certainly dissolve any of the qualities of the steam oil in the first moments that the locomotive reaches operating temperatures. 

Use a round toothpick to pick up just enough of the caulk to coat the threads on the fittings and to prevent excessive amounts.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, use the caulking compound on the threaded fittings AND USE IT SPARINGLY! and only where there is not some other seal provided (like, don't use it on the gland nuts). 

But the steam oil on the gaskets sealed very well and I got zero of that caulking compound any anything like the valve face or the rods/glands. And I do mean "Steam Oil", of the 460 weight range (NOT "3-in-1" or other 5 to 20 weight light oil). Perks werfectly!


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Yes, no packing compound on the gland nuts, as the friction from the rubber O-rings keep things from leaking. Packing compound (Silicone caulk) only on threaded joints on stationary non moving parts.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

I coat my gaskets with the Aster supplied "bathtub caulk" very sparingly and once the caulk has cured I have disassembled the steam chests on other engines and they come apart pretty easily if you take your time. 

I usually lay the gasket on an empty plastic parts bag and coat one side with a toothpick and wipe off the excess. I then turn it over and coat the other side. By that time the plastic bag has a coating of caulk on it and I just peel off the gasket and there is a nice thin coat of caulk on both sides.


The S2 cylinder is different than previous Aster cylinders in that there are two sets of screws. One set of 4 screws mounts the cross port plate, steam port plate and the steam chest to the cylinder body. The other set of 4 screws mounts the steam chest cover plate. That way you can assemble the cylinder and steam chest and tighten all the gaskets and packing compound and not have to disturb them later on when you need to adjust the valve timing. The Mikado and Berkshire had one set of 4 screws that held together the whole sandwich. 

I'll bet Hans had something to do with that setup which makes assembly and adjusting easier.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

For you to post pictures on here you need to be a 1st Class Member which means you have to pay to post pictures 
Not true. All you need is a place to host your photos. While it's true that 1st Class members get 100mb of web space as part of their membership for such purposes, photos can be hosted on any web server which allows external linking. Many (most) ISPs provide personal web space, and this can be used to host your photos. As Charles mentioned, sites like Photo Bucket are another option. 

Bottom line - you do NOT have to "pay" to post photos.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

I have said it many times before. For the fun and knowledge I get from MLS, its the best bang for the buck in Live Steam.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Here are the latest pics of S2 assembly. Boiler backhead and fittings. 


Boiler rear and firebox. Whistle at lower left, steam pipe in center-top is throttle, Large copper tubing is for water glass. 










Another view of backhead with (L-R) water glass return at left, throttle, blower pipe, water inlet from tender. Steam manifold on top.












Backhead and water glass in place. It's a tight fit between boiler and backhead. 










Here's a better view of the backhead and piping. I had to use the water pump handle to align 
that banjo fitting on top of the water glass. The tubing was rubbing on the backplate and I could not get the banjo bolt threads to align. Whistle lever is to the left of the throttle extension.












Another view of backhead. That small tubing on the right goes to the steam gauge. I haven't figured out the routing yet. It's not clear in the manual. Maybe the next few steps will show it better.












The red stuff oozing out from the insulation in pics #1 and 2 is High Temp RTV. I used this all around the fire box instead of the bathtub caulk. A fair amount of re-bending was required on most of the copper tubing to properly align male and female parts.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

do you not think you may be using a little too much caulk on some of the joints as what you see ooz outside will be the same inside and sometimes over time this can break off and block something


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

do you not think you may be using a little too much caulk on some of the joints as what you see ooz outside will be the same inside and sometimes over time this can break off and block something




Tony,


That was a bitch of a joint to mate up and it took me two tries after caulking to align the banjo fitting and banjo bolt. Most of what you see is only on the outside as I cleaned off anything that might get inside the joint. That's why it looks so messy. After I took the picture, I cleaned off most of the caulk on the outside so it looks much better now. 

Thanks for your concern though.


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## steam8hack (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By k5pat on 06/11/2008 1:32 PM



Backhead and water glass in place. It's a tight fit between boiler and backhead. 












That flattened tube bend in the top copper water glass pipe, is that the way you got it?


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## steam8hack (Feb 11, 2008)

double post - never mind /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Now the fun starts. Here is the Boiler casing finally attached to the boiler.

It was harder than it looks. I had to take the casing on and off a couple of times to adjust tubing and turn hex nuts on the backhead fittings to allow the backhead to fit close enough to the boiler to match up the mounting holes on the casing.










































Makes for a nice clean look in the engine cab.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

That flattened tube bend in the top copper water glass pipe, is that the way you got it?



Yep, that's the way it came. It looks worse in the picture than it really is. My guess is that the size has something to do with keeping bubbles out of the water glass. 

That's the one that gave me the most trouble getting lined up with the top of the water glass holder. That banjo collar has to fit flush just right on top or you cannot start to screw in the banjo bolt. It tries to cross-thread. 


It sure seems to me like Aster has used a different vendor (or a different employee) to manufacture their silver soldered tubing assemblies for this engine. Their quality and fit is not up to previous engines. IMHO


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

I am glad that I order a RTR engine instead of a KIT version. It would be nice to have more KIT opinions to see if the problems that have encountered Pat are the same. Maybe some of these problems can be send to ASTER for corrections, unless this is the way it has always been with KITS.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

I am glad that I order a RTR engine instead of a KIT version. It would be nice to have more KIT opinions to see if the problems that have encountered Pat are the same. Maybe some of these problems can be send to ASTER for corrections, unless this is the way it has always been with KITS.



Privero, 
I also would like to hear more comments from other kit builders. Maybe my engine has more than its share of tolerance buildups.

Since I have minimum machinist skills I can't really scratchbuild so I build kits. I enjoy working with precision tools building precision machinery and I get pleasure out of creating a beautiful machine out of a box of parts. I'm an engineer and I marvel at the engineering that went into these kits and the solutions they come up with to solve some of the packaging problems fitting all these parts and pipes in the tiny spaces allowed.

Some "adjustments" are expected with kits and notwithstanding my "problems", Aster makes some of the best kits in any hobby.


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## steam8hack (Feb 11, 2008)

Posted By k5pat on 06/11/2008 7:00 PM 
That flattened tube bend in the top copper water glass pipe, is that the way you got it?



Yep, that's the way it came. It looks worse in the picture than it really is. My guess is that the size has something to do with keeping bubbles out of the water glass. 

That's the one that gave me the most trouble getting lined up with the top of the water glass holder. That banjo collar has to fit flush just right on top or you cannot start to screw in the banjo bolt. It tries to cross-thread. 


It sure seems to me like Aster has used a different vendor (or a different employee) to manufacture their silver soldered tubing assemblies for this engine. Their quality and fit is not up to previous engines. IMHO " border=0>" border=0>

Go figure? Wouldn't the right way be just anneal it and use a proper tube bender? Simple things are off, is not encouraging. 
I'll push out my reservation, see if more kits and experiences go the same way.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Excellent progress! How's the paint finish on the boiler shell? The photographs kind of elude to some orange peel, then it could be due to the resolution of the photograph on the screen. 

Carol Comley of Sunset Valley RR met with me this afternoon where I took delivery of kit locomotive No.038, however I'll be out of town for a few days so I won't have time to even open the box until I get home. To my surprise, the shipping box wouldn't into my car resorting to opening the box and slipping the inner box onto the folded down rear seats. Along with my sales receipt, I got a small plastic bag with the whistle control lever. How does this lever differ with what's in the box? About 2.5" of styrofoam around all sides of the inner box, seemed to be pretty well packed. I heard that the RTR came in the same outer box but some locos suffered a bit of damage in transit.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By GNSteamer on 06/12/2008 12:41 AM

Carol Comley of Sunset Valley RR met with me this afternoon where I took delivery of kit locomotive No.038, however I'll be out of town for a few days so I won't have time to even open the box until I get home. 





What have you collected the Green or Black version


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

I can understand why they are fitting larger pipes to the gauge glass but have they made it easier to get to the blow down control /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif only on the British stuff they used a slot head which was useless then on the later 9f a t-bar which has improved things what's on the S2


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

GNSteamer: 

Hopefully you can post your assembly here and see if the same problems occur with your kit. Did you buy a balck version or a green version? Also, the RTR engines that were damage are the ones that Pete received? and there should be out ther someone that bought a RTR version son he can post some pictures of the production model. By the way Pat, your loco is looking great, and since I do not have your skills and private place to assemble, I rather order a RTR engine. 

Patricio Rivero


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

More photos from late last night.


Smokebox ready to install












Backhead with throttle and blower controls installed.


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## Jim Overland (Jan 3, 2008)

Keep up the great pictures and comments! 

jim o


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

This has got me tempted I went to a GTG today in the UK I saw an Aster Berkshire and Mikado running and to top it all a recently finished kit built meths fired Allegheny /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif with 30 reefers.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Tony23, 
Here's a video showing a Berkshire pulling 72 hoppers.


click here


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Aster S2 boiler mated to chassis. Some tweaking and bending of the steam gauge tube was needed, but overall it was pretty easy to mount.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Wow, you've made some excellent progress! I collected the green boiler version of course, to match up with my Great Northern Mikado, if anyone is curious a picture of which is posted on Han's Aster site, Mikado page.


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## Ron67 (Jan 14, 2008)

Impressions from a first timer, both Aster and live steam. I took delivery of black kit #08 last Thursday and am thoroughly impressed with every aspect from packaging to the instructions to the fit and finish of every part thus far. I have approximately 10 hours in the build and should be ready for air testing with another couple of hours of work. Again, I can't get over the level of engineering and how the parts seem to fit perfectly. During the 10 hours in thus far, I have only had to lightly file two parts for a perfect fit. Wow! I certainly appreciate the time and effort that go into a build like this and have learned a bunch so far. Everything I ever expected and more. Can't wait to see and hear the steam.....


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Early Saturday kit building.


Smoke box front assembly






















The book says to use 22-28 strands of wick material. I used 28 and the fit was not too tight, but they did not fall out when turned over. I had 26 strands extra.


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## Ron67 (Jan 14, 2008)

Pat, axle water pump question in step 3, figure 5. The diagram shows only 1 SB3 ball bearing when conneting the water pipe 40 to the housing. Although the diagram does not show it, is there also a SB3 ball bearing that needs to be installed when connecting water pipe 39 to the housing?


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

is there also a SB3 ball bearing that needs to be installed when connecting water pipe 39 to the housing?



No Ron, if a ball were placed in #39 it would prevent the pump from pumping water back to the tender or into the boiler through bypass valve #36. The SB3 ball in tube #40 prevents the axle pump from pumping back into the water intake line and is shown correctly. Make sure you seat the ball in the banjo bolt with a wood or brass dowel and small hammer.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

No Ron, if a ball were placed in #39 it would prevent the pump from pumping water back to the tender or into the boiler through bypass valve #36. The SB3 ball in tube #40 prevents the axle pump from pumping back into the water intake line and is shown correctly. Make sure you seat the ball in the banjo bolt with a wood or brass dowel and small hammer.




...and use a spare ball to do it, not the one supplied in the kit. 

tac


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Interesting observation but are the screws flanking the headlight on the smoke box face to be replaced in a future step or are these screw heads painted silver? If you look at the photographs on the Aster site, these appear to be bolts and not screws and are painted silver.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

GNSteamer--The screws flanking the headlight are black and crosshead. I guess they decided not to paint them.


Here are the latest pics of the S2 kit.


Cab installed























Smokebox front, running boards, ladders installed












Still have to install fittings, piping, railing, etc.












The tender is next.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Were the numbers and letters already in place?


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Were the numbers and letters already in place?



The small 2584 below the headlight is glued on. The big 2584 on the sides of the cab is a metal plate with mounting tabs which are bent inside the cab. The rest of the numbers are painted on.


The serial number plate has peel&stick adhesive on the back. Mine says 051/257.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Aster S2 engine detailing.













































Compare the size and color with the Southern Mikado


Front to front lineup even












Cab to cab, the S2 is much longer. The green color on the S2 is very close to GN green IMHO. 
Although everyone's different monitor will show some variation in the colors depending on my lighting source in the pictures.

You really have to view it in person to see the comparison.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Pat, 
Looking at the pictures I see two safety valves but one looks false " border=0> is it. 

OOops! just seen the other ones!


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

S2 Tender assembly


Front view looking at alcohol tank












rear view looking into water tank












Rear straight-on












Side view with GN logo












Wooden planks over water tank, alcohol cover,wheels are next.


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## privero (Jan 18, 2008)

So, Pat, how many hours up to now? And I am posting a photo of my RTR S2 engine, No. 246 out of 257. This photo was taken by Pete Comley, which I ask him to check it out before shipping, just to be sure that everything is ok. Somebody post before that there were some RTR locos that were damage in shipping.


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## Ron67 (Jan 14, 2008)

So Pat, what is your impression with the build so far? Fit/finish/engineering comparable to prior Asters?


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

So Pat, what is your impression with the build so far? Fit/finish/engineering comparable to prior Asters?



I am impressed with the overall quality and appearance of the engine/tender. A lot of design thought and engineering has gone into this engine. I continue to be impressed by the engineering solutions to fitting all these parts together and get it to work properly and look prototypical.


There are a lot more tiny screws and tiny parts to assemble thus requiring a lot more work in assembly with some filing for parts to fit and a couple of threaded holes to clean up.


I have not kept close count of the number of hours so far, but it is probably 35-40 hours.


If it runs like it looks, I'll be a happy camper.


Ron, 
What was the outcome of your axle pump problem?


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## Ron67 (Jan 14, 2008)

Pat, although I have no reference to prior Aster models, I too am very impressed with the engineering that went into this model. Lots of detail and I am amazed that everything fits so well, given the numerous parts. So far I have only used a file twice for a perfect fit (I carry the burdon of being a perfectionist). This really looks to be a fine classic model. 

Concerning the pump, a new one is on order from Japan and Hans should receive the original kit pump tomorrow for inspection and exchange. w/o the pump, the running gear is as smooth as a sewing machine when turned by hand. I would note that there is minute clearance between the drive rods and the brake hangers. I've moved along to the boiler assembly until the new pump arrives.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

I started a new thread, "Aster S2 kit--First run".


Check there for a video of my first run.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Pat, Thanks for the excellent build photographs! I have read the instructions several times over now taking them on a vacation trip and will probably get started on my kit this week. I'm setting up a build studio area so that I can photo-document the process as I go along and post them somewhere with a link to them here. 

Did you use any special wire bending pliers or forms when you bent up the assorted hand rails and pipes? I'm going to call my buddy who's an orthodontist to borrow one of his wire forming pliers. 

With all of the detail that already comes with the kit, I think the only minute detail that is needed is routing of a piece of black thread for the bell cord. There must be a way of swagging a line back to the cab.


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## tony23 (Jan 2, 2008)

How about a picture of the wooden deck fitted to the tender


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

How about a picture of the wooden deck fitted to the tender



To see some still pics 
click here


I was looking at a way to run a line to the bell, but that is a long engine and I'm still looking at it.


To bend all the various wires I used regular needle nose pliers, round nose pliers, round nose pliers with tubing over the noses, and fingers. The stainless steel wire (SUS) was the hardest to bend and cut. Don't use your "good" cutting pliers to cut the stainless wire. Don't forget to slide the standoffs over the wires on the tender before bending!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/doze.gif


I still have a few handrails to install. With all those wires sticking out it is hard to pick up the engine without bending something.


My very next project is to build a carrying cradle for this engine and tender./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

The wooden tender deck is painted with "Grimy black" model paint. I was going to stain with "Early American" stain and clear coat them, but I remembered I had some grimy black from another project so I tried that. It looks pretty good, especially with some steam oil stains after running. Just like the real ones.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

The book tells you to cut the hoses from tender to engine to 70mm, but that is too long and they rub on the rails. It's best to make a trial fit before cutting so yours will come out with no rubbing, especially the one with fittings on both ends.


The blowdown valve works great for clearing the water glass.


The whistle sounds like most Aster whistles--European. And it burns your finger. 


The headlamp (LED) takes a 2032 lithium battery and you have to use needle nose pliers to turn it on & off, there is no switch; not enough room.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By k5pat on 06/23/2008 4:26 PM

snip%>< 
The headlamp (LED) takes a 2032 lithium battery and you have to use needle nose pliers to turn it on & off, there is no switch; not enough room.




Could you provide some detail about the headlamp? How do you use the pliers to turn it on & off? Is the battery integral to the headlamp? (Your description sounds suspiciously like my article in 'SitG'?)


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

I think I remember on the prototype, the battery holder is between the frame rails, and not sure here but the battery was slid up into the holder to turn the light on, and slid out slightly to turn it off ? 
It was about 6 months ago and I only looked at the light , I did not turn it on and off.. so I could be wrong on how it turns on and off. 
Jeff


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Jeff & C.T., 
Go back and look at my picture on 6/3/08, 9:31PM on the first page of this thread. It shows the battery wire(white) going from battery holder to the pins to connect to the headlamp. The headlamp has two short leads coming from it that plug into these two pins just under the small "2584" numbers.


Also look at my pics on this page on 6/14, 9:37PM and you can see the two pins that come from the headlamp and plug into the two copper pins from the battery.


I suppose one could turn over the engine and take out the battery, but it will be much easier to take a pair of needlenose and unplug one of the pins under the headlamp. 
Hans told me it was done this way in order to make it easier to take off the smokebox front. All you have to do is unscrew 4 screws and unplug the headlamp to take the cover off. There are also some pipes coming from the air pumps that will need to be moved a little, at least on my kit.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

I just unpacked the Number One parts box last night and am setting up to start assembly of my kit. 
Beginning with the lapping process, I immediately noticed that one of the 1-8 valve plates in my kit was slightly warped (The center area would lap, but the edges where the holes are took much more time lapping to eventually even out, when flipped over the edges would lap but took some time until the center would lap). The other side's plate lapped evenly almost immediately. I used a 1000 grit wet and finished with 1500 grit wet on a piece of granite counter sample I had laying around. 
I don't think this slight warp age will affect performance since I've now got the faces evenly lapped, the use of the paper gaskets with the packing compound (caulk) will make up for any slight discrepancy that might exist in the other components in the stack of cylinder assembly parts. It's surprising how much "slop" there is and still these things run like a clock (Mikado). 
In the assembly of my Mikado and I recall lapping the actual face of the cylinder blocks (1-5, on the S2) with the larger cylinders of the S2 and stacked assembly, the components that actually work face to face are much more diminutive in comparison to the Mikado. (Estimated time spent 1.0 hour) 
Here's a question for you guys, should I continue to log my assembly here or should I start my own thread? 
Scheduled for this evening, will be the assembly of cylinders.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Pat, why is access to the smoke box face so critical? Hans and Aster could have certainly excercised some of their creativity in developing a switch for this headlight.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Harlan, 
You should start another thread IMHO. This one's getting looooooong. 
I don't know why Hans did it this way, but he must have received lots of comments about getting to the smoke box or he wouldn't have gone to the trouble of making it easily removable. 


Maybe you guys will want to install a "Bark Box" in the S2.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Pat, Did you experience anything like the warped 1-8 plate? This was obviously done during the punch process of the three openings. The cylinder assembly seems to be pretty straight forward. A lot of attention needs to be paid to orientation of openings and distances as related to which side uses which parts. I guess we'll end up with a few assembly threads here. 

Interesting, my Mike leaks a bit while steam is building up in the smoke box but stops when there is enough pressure to remove the draft fan and the fire maintained with the blower opened.


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

My steam port plate was not warped as far as I could tell. It polished rather easily after about 10 minutes on the 1000 grit paper.


If yours looks shiny after polishing, it should come out OK after torquing all the screws properly.


Yes, you do have to pay close attention to the orientation and placement of all those plates on the cylinders.


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## GNSteamer (Jan 16, 2008)

Pat, 
I am assembling the left cylinder and was wondering which countersunk cross head screw to use on page 21? The written instruction say to use (4) CM2-5 screws which are black, while the exploded diagram depicts using the C-M2-5 (Ni) silver finished countersunk cross head screws, along with the (2)M2-8 crosshead black finish screws. I then noticed that on page one of your thread, that you used the silver screws on your cylinders from your photograph. Did this pose a problem later on? Which screw is the correct to use here? Thanks!


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## k5pat (Jan 18, 2008)

Harlan, 
I used the nickel plated screws on the cylinders and had no problems later on.


The only problem I had was that I ran out of 1.7-3 crosshead screws. There are black steel ones and black brass ones. Make sure you use the correct ones as stated in the instructions. Also double check with the diagram, sometimes the instructions don't say which screw to use, steel or brass. Luckily, I had some extras from other kits.


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