# My layout design



## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Here is my initial design for my layout. I'm wanting to get started as soon as the weather breaks. I'd like some input if you dont mind.

Here are some specs:
- The mailine curve radius is 14 ft diameter. I'd like to get them wider, but space doesnt permit it.
- I'll be using battery power.
- The roadbed will be ladder.

So what do you think?


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## WSOR (Jun 27, 2010)

Seems like a nice simple layout. Will you be operating the industries? Any more industries for the lumber mill and mine to serve?


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I'll use the storage as a sort of staging area. So the cars will have a place to go.


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## fsfazekas (Feb 19, 2008)

Nice and clean...the crossing will make things fun. With battery power it might be worth it to consider if you can add a way to turn a train or engine around. Finally, just call the storage are an "interchange" and you're all set. Best wishes on your construction!


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I didnt put it in 3D, but the crossing is not a diamond. The one track is raised above the other. 

I wanted this track plan to be small so I could get a majority of it done this year, if not all of it. I have plenty of room for expansion and have already thought about a mining expansion into the "Ruby Basin". But my goal is to get trains running and this part done, so I dont have a torn up yard for the next few years. 

Also this will be a narrow guage line, except for the occational "wild hair"


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Jake, 

Looks like a lot of fun. here are a couple of thoughts. If the drawing is roughly to scale it looks like the siding over the "Brick Retaining Wall" text is about 7 or 8 feet long. That won't be long enough to run around most trains, and looks to be a good deal shorter than the storage tracks. You might want to consider extending it around the loop to near the mine. Also, trains leaving the storage tracks going forward will encounter facing point switches on the mine, lumber mill and the short siding in the town. Cars destined for those sidings will need to be spotted at the run around siding in town and then shoved into the industries. The alternative would be to back the trains out of staging/storage so they can switch the industries. if space is available you might want to consider adding a double ended siding along the fence near the lumber mill. 

It also appears that the curve terminates right at the crossing. it is normally a good idea, but not mandatory, to have at least some tangent track right next to a crossing to give the rolling stock a chance to line up. 

And finally, when you chose your industries, did you consider the rolling stock? Lumber mills receive logs (a great load), and ship with box cars, flat car,s and perhaps wood chip gons. The mine will have mineral cars and an occasional boxcar. Nothing wrong with that, but if you want a reason (other than its my railroad and I'll run what I want to - perfectly OK) to run a greater variety of cars, then perhaps look at other industries. 

Hope this helps. 

Mike


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Jake, 

Given the crossing is raised, it might be a good idea to extend the run around track to the lumber mill. Then, if you connected the storage siding closest to the loop to the middle siding instead of the main, you could use the siding as a yard lead and switch the yard while a train runs on the main. The siding would also be long enough to have meets/passes, as well as allowing run arounds for switching facing point industries. 

Mike


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the sounds of what you have thus far - 14 ft diameter is excellent, I have some 8's - battery should make running through the switches no additional work - I love my ladder sub-roadbed. 

Since you are looping over the track, what will the maximum grade be? I would recommend 4% at most. Do you have enough room for that? 

Second, what size switches will you be using? I recommend at lest #6. The other item regarding switches depends on if you have a "preferred" direction of running the train. If you think of a switch as a "Y", if your train comes into the "Y" from the top I've found they get through the switch more reliably, as you don't have to worry about the switch getting picked if the point is not 100% up against the rail.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Jake, 
Looks like a very sensible track design. 
One question that I always suggest that a designer of a new track should ask is, "is he expecting that only 'he', or 'she', will be using the railway?" 
IF you are expecting friends over, or even a club, you will NEVER have enough storage tracks. 
Another question which effects choice of grades, is do you ever think that you might want a live steam loco, or will you have friends over that have them. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

The grade is figured out to about 3%. 

Mike, you bring up a good point. the passing siding in the town is small. It is 36" between the switches. I'm using #6 on most places except a #4 in the small stub in the town. The loop coming down from the mine would seem the most logical spot to add more to the siding, to get an appropriate runaround. Perhaps if I add a #6 after the Mine switch and then turn the loop under the deck into a double track. It would make the inside loop less then the 14' diameter I was working for. It also complicates my future plans to extend a "Ruby Basin" mining district to the west coming off the main just after the mine switch. 

As for the curve after the crossing, I dont think it will matter because it isnt a diamond crossing. Although the drawing doesnt show it, there are easements designed into the plan. 

I also like the idea of extending the track to the lumber mill. I'll get on Autocadd and post a couple changes and see what you guys think. Thanks for the input.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I'm thinking about this double ended staging and I dont think I'll be able to get it to fit. I put the storage under the deck so I have some shelter from the NW winds that are prevailent in my neck of the woods. I also hoped to get some kind of protection of the cars staged there with out having to make a separate car barn to put over the top. 

Part of what complicates things is the small square that is just north of where the staging stops, are steps. So there is limited space there.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

It looks like you have a somewhat tight space to work with but it looks to be a good plan and with 14' curves your train will run and look better. I'm not sure from your diagram which is the upper section over the "X" in your plan. Is the town high or low? The only reason I ask is... can people step off the patio and will they be going over or through the layout? Under the deck do you have headroom to stand or is it like my space on my layout where I need to climb on hands and knees to maintain the track. Will the switches be manually powered under the deck? An issue if your deck is low. 
I would say run what you like when it comes to equipment but it is always nice for your RR to have a purpose or a theme. Will you be running clockwise or counter clockwise? That will make a difference in the way your sidings are pointed. Since you are running battery you could have 2 trains going in opposite directions so the sidings don't matter just make sure you put a passing siding in somewhere long enough to accomadate your longest train. I would definantly keep the grade under 3% 
It is always exciting to see someone designing their layout so keep us posted as to how things are progressing.


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

That one switch on what I presume is the top part of the loop, may not be a good idea. at least indoors, switches on grades aren't so hot. but if you level out just that little section of track, that might help. Aside from that, it looks to be a very good track plan. 
JJWtrainman


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

another thing to think about is that if you are indeed running battery trains, and those trains only,putting in a wye, or turntable could make the layout more interesting while not complicating things.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Good point on the switch on grade, however the switch you are refering to is on level ground. I also thought of how to put a wye or turntable in, and at this point I dont have the room. I want enough room for scenery and not just a spegetti bowl of track. I will add the feature in phase 2, for now I'll just have to use the 0-5-0 if I really need to turn a locomotive.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I was perusing through some posts here and I failed to answer one of them. The question was will people be able to step over the layout from the patio side? 

The answer is no. The patio is actually about 4 ft below the grade of the railroad. It actually makes a good place to steam up a live steamer because it is technically on a raised platform. Not that I'm going into live steam at this time, but I like to keep my options open. 

The other thing is, that center of the upper loop and north of the town will be a small "mountain" with a waterfall and then a stream that empties into a pond in the middle of the lower loop. This is my compromise with the "chief land baron" in order to get my property rights, I had to have a water feature. But, I think it will look nice. 

Another question asked was the clearance under my deck. The Deck is actually raised and a normal height person can almost stand underneath it. My thinking is a perfect place for car storage. 

I'll try to post a photo of the area in question. However, I'm at work and it is usually about dark before I get home, so we shall see.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

No picture of the area in question, but this is an update with some suggestions put forth. Mainly I extended the "runaround" from the town so I could get around a decent size train.

I expect most of my trains will be short, but this way I have plenty of room.


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## Mike O (Jan 2, 2008)

Jake, 

Looks good. The water feature should be great. The only comment I would make on the plan is consider moving the switch for the northern most leg of staging from the main to connect with the middle leg between the switch for the east leg of staging and the switch for middle leg to connect to the main. That way, if you decide to build trains in the staging yard while you (or someone else) is running a train on the main, you can do so without blocking the main.


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## jjwtrainman (Mar 11, 2011)

or you could extend the siding past that particular switch, then the yard would be VERY operation-able.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Perhaps I should try to put a threeway in the that spot you talked about Mike?? Or one of those "slideable switches"


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

I have to laugh, as I start to pound in the stakes I am negotiating with "Land Office" and will now probably extend the lower loop in the lower part of the yard. This will give me a longer run and a "better pool for goldfish" (Thats what I'm telling the "Land Office"). Its funny, I haven't even started and I'm already modifying.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Welcome aboard Jake, Modifying? Naw, it's 'growing'. My latest addition offered the most variation and broke the monotony of always in the same direction... 
I think you should look into a cut off track from north of the lumber yard at the curve towards town and run a track along the fence up to the track near the mine. Using battery power makes that easy, if you ever use track power that would need isolation. A pair of insulated joiners and an off limit sign, without wiring it special.... 

What era and type of locos will you be running? 

Babies and little kids love goldfish.... 

Have fun, happy rails ahead. 

John


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Mostly running narrow gauge. I have a Bachman Connie and a Bachman K-27 right now.


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