# Bachmann 1:20.3 Scale 2-6-0 Mogul derailing



## lrparks (Nov 21, 2008)

I have all 10' diameter turns in my layout. However, I have one Aristocraft 4' manual switch and my Bachmann 1:20.3 Scale 2-6-0 Mogul keeps derailing on it. Any suggestions?


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Check to see where the derail occurs. 

If the wheels climb the frog and derails, you will need to work on the guide rail. Most often the guide rail doesn't hold the wheels on the inside of the curve close enough to keep the outside wheels from hitting the frog and derailing. 

Randy


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Toss the aristo and replace it with an LGB. No Bachmann loco I ever had has liked Aristo turnouts. The Mining Moguls (Indy) were the worst. They would pogo stick right off the rails every time they hit one.


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## Robbie Hanson (Jan 4, 2008)

The Bachmann 2-6-0(I'm assuming the Spectrum Baldwin one?): 

1. Cannot negotiate a 4' diameter turn(too long of wheelbase) 
2. Has derailment issues on sharper curves--you need to remove some sort of shim on the center axle. 

I don't own one but this is what I remember...I'll leave more intricate details to somebody else.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

You gotta replace the switch. Assuming you've got the large 2-6-0, not the puny industrial one, it's not designed to fit around a 2' radius (4' diameter) curve. You're battling physics, and I'm sorry to say physics will win every time. Go with one of LGB's 1600 series (R3) switches at an absolute minimum. 

Later, 

K


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi,

IF you have the big Bachmann Spectrum Mogul, check underneath to see if the center flangless wheel still has a plate on the base between the wheels, it is basically a diamond shape with a couple of shiny steel pins that are close to the inner face of the wheels.

It stops the wheels sling - take it off, and keep it safe in case you want to put it back to sell it. Now the center wheels will slide sideways more - it does not affect the loco, but give more room for that sliding motion.

That should help - give it a try, and remember where you put in a 'safe place' the bit + the two screws for possible later use!

IF its the tiny Industrial Mogul or Indy' see of you can add some weight - look at David Fletcher's Master Class re this loco , when he made the chassis of the 'Indy' into some Porter loco's; that should help in dismantling it - the only aggravation is there is a big basically useless circuit board in the small boiler! 

Re-wiring the loco can dispose of that freeing off the now empty boiler for adding some weight.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd put in a bigger switch.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

If you remove the "pin plate" from underneath, you're going to want to put some kind of shims between the gearbox and the frame to keep the center drivers from sliding laterally. If you don't do this, the wheels will drop down inside the curve (which is why the pins are there--to keep the wheels on top of the rails), leading to--well--derailments. Even with the plate removed and shims installed, the loco still only begrudgingly goes around a 2.5' radius curve. 










Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I vote for dumping that switch, they are way too sharp for almost all locos, why tweak all the locos when you can eliminate the source of the problem? 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd have to agree with Greg, get rid of the sore spot namely the sharp turnout. It's a lot easier to do than doing any modes to the loco. As they say bigger is better. Later RJD


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