# Which Kozo book to buy?



## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Because of my period of interest (1820-1850), I have had no luck finding cast wheels that match, even remotely match. So I'm going to have to make my own.







I heard that Kozo details how to make a soldering jig to construct your own drivers, etc. I also heard that the new shay book has the process in it, or would one of the older books be better? Thanks

Jason


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

All. 
;-)

Regards,


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

Okay, seriously they are all great books. He makes everything without castings. I have looked through the other books and they are great too. I can't give you a specific recommendation except to say any of his books are a great addition to a live steamers library.

Regards,


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Cool, thanks Eric (I think  ). Can you recommend one for the wheel jig specifically? As much as I would like to buy them all, I only have funds for one.  

Jason


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## Eric M. (Jan 3, 2008)

I have only looked through them over at Henner Meinhold's house. He owns the Original Shay, Climax and Heisler books. Henner is also on this forum so maybe he can comment. I am pretty sure they all show how to build wheels with jigs because all the logging locomotives have spoked wheels but lets see if someone who is more familiar with the books can make a specific recommendation. If I didnt have access to the books over at Henner's place I would start collecting them myself.

Regards,


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason,
as Eric pointed out, I have the 3 older books about the geared locos. They all contain a chapter about making wheels. If you prefer imperial units, the Heisler book would be suitable, while the 2 others use the dreaded metric units







.
Regards


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks guys.







Units don't matter, I'm more interested in the hows and whys as I'm going to have to design my own jig for the wheels I want anyway. I will just pick one that interests me the most then. Hmmm the Heisler does look interesting. 

Jason


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## Ed Hume (Jan 3, 2008)

Jason, 

The Pennsy A3 book uses wheel castings, however it has better instruction for general fabrication methods than the older geared locomotive books or the new shay book. The new shay book has the best instruction for silver soldering wheels. Also the new shay book has valuable guidance for copper boiler design and testing. Metric units are not a problem. Take each mm as 1/32" and you have the right size for 3ft Narrow Gauge on Gauge 1 track. 

Ed


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## daveb (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Jason
I have both of the shay books. The New Shay book is far superiorthan the original. I have also built the wheels for the new shay and they came out beautifully. I am new to machining and was very surprised at how well they came out.

Dave


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

The new Shay book shows a wheel fabrication method with a reusable jig and one soldering step. In theory it looks good, but with my luck, it would have problems. Solder flux bubbles and pushes solder bits all over the places. It's highly likely I would solder the jig to the wheel and loose it anyway. Kozo's other wheel fabs require one jig per wheel that gets sacrificed and uses two soldering steps. I, personally, would have better luck with that.


If you can only get one of Kozo's books, I recommend the Climax. I think it's the best overall. If you want some basic fabrication, machine work and silver soldering skill ideas, they are in there. If you dig crazy intense machine work and math, that's in there too. The new Shay book is very good too, but Kozo did not build that engine himself. He designed it and drew the plans. Two other guys built it built it for him.


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

most of Kozo's work first appeared in Live Steam Magazine. if you are only interested in certain aspects of his technique and designs, you might want to look for some back issues which specifically address your needs.

http://www.livesteam.net/articleindex

cheers...gary


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks guys!









Bob, I was hoping you would respond. But, of course, in my enthusiasm I have already purchased "Building the New Shay". *sigh* Sometimes I think I create more problems for my self then should be allowed.







I was thinking that the jig would be made of aluminum, the solder shouldn't stick to it, should it? I'm just thinking that I would like to make a lot of these wheels (16-24) and if I have to make a jig for every single wheel, that could make me grumpy.









Thanks Gary, but I'm also interested in all the other good stuff too. Who knows, maybe I will make one of these too (one of these years).









Jason


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason, 

If you silver-solder the wheels, then the temperature needed to melt the silver solder will also melt the aluminum. Also aluminum makes a great heatsink, which I learned when using a fixture made out of a block of aluminum to do some low-temperature soldering. If I were to attempt to use an aluminum fixture to do low temperature soldering again I'd definitely surround it with firebricks and make sure it wasn't cooled by any breeze - things I didn't realize way back when. 

A couple of ways to make mild steel fixtures less likely to get soldered to the wheel are to rub a #2 pencil all over the fixture or to use a salt solution or pickling solution to form a thin coating of rust all over the fixture. Pencil lead is graphite and clay (or so I've read) which resist the silver solder. Just don't get it where you want the solder to flow. A layer of rust will also resist the silver solder. Of course you can also design the fixture to have minimal contact with the wheel pieces, and then plan how and where you apply the flux to ensure that the silver solder flows only to where you want it. 

I don't think that you did wrong to buy Kozo's "New Shay" book. I bought it a few years back although will likely never build anything as ambitious as his Shay nor achieve that level of building skill. However his illustrations and notes on fabricating a boiler provided the info I needed to fabricate my own boiler successfully. The info on making fittings, safety valves, and boiler design can apply to any locomotive project. 

Steve


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## Ed Hume (Jan 3, 2008)

Jason, 

You cannot use aluminum because it melts at 933F and the silver braze BAg-1 melts at 1125F. However, you can control your torch heating to dry the flux without moving the solder pieces around and you can succeed with a re-usable jig as shown in the new shay book. You chose well getting the new shay book although you will likely buy more of the books if you continue scratch building. 

I suggest using a mortar and pestle to keep your flux finely ground and well-mixed with an amount of water that is adjusted for the job at hand. I have posted many construction photos with before and after silver soldering shots on flickr although none are of brazing wheels. See for example, the shay series, still in progress, http://www.flickr.com/photos/edhume3/sets/72157614192042835/ or my two climax sets- http://www.flickr.com/photos/edhume3/sets/72157600964223180/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/edhume3/sets/72157604664938888/ . 

Ed


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## Engineer Larry (Jun 2, 2009)

For those building the A3 switcher or New Shay in 3/4" scale, Friends Models has wheel and cylinder castings available.

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http://www.friendsmodels.com./productsforsale/kozowheelsdrivers.html

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 Larry


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a technique to make wheels using a reusable jig and single soldering step. To do this you need a rotary table and mill. I've made 12 drivers and 60 other wheels with this method, so it works. First is machine out wheel rims and hubs. The hubs and wheel rim insides are to final dimension. Outside wheel rim is oversize. Turn the soldering jig from 1/4" thick brass or steel. The central part of the jig is rather depressed. Only a small portion of the wheel rim and hub are in contact with the jig. All solder points are well clear of the jig. 1/16" x 3/16" brass strip make the spokes.













Center the rotary table with soldering jig under the spindle of the mill. Clamp in a wheel rim blank. Use a 1/16" mill to cut slots for spokes. I used plunging cuts as with a drill bit. Take little cuts to avoid breaking the bit.










Clamp down a little holder jig to machine the hubs. Use the 1/16" mill to make slots for spokes.










After machining this is what you end up with










Cut lengths of spoke material. Clamp wheel parts in soldering jig. Press in the spokes. Flux up. Drop in some 1/32" dia jeweler's silver solder in the little holes around the spokes.











Machine the wheels to final dimension. 


If you need counterweights on the drivers, shape and soft solder in some brass sheet.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Those are some pretty good looking wheels there Bob. 

I cannot guess by the size and number what you were making though. perhaps a British ten wheeler engine with 6 wheel tender? got a photo?


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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

Wow! Thanks Bob,

Those look great! In fact the wheels on the second row from the bottom are almost exactly like the ones I wish to make. Although mine will probably need to be a bit bigger (1.875" diameter). I have a rotary table, just need to get the indicating plates for it. 

Thanks guys on the aluminum jig, I will get it sooner or later, I promise.









Jason 
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## Grimm (Oct 5, 2009)

I got the book today. GREAT GOOGLY MOOGLY!!! There's so much machining goodness in that book it should be illegal.














It's going to take me a couple of years just to learn all the goodness in the book. I'm definitely going to have to get the other books too. Even my wife, who doesn't have any interest, is impressed and thinks it's a good idea. Thanks for the recommendation everyone. 

Happy Jason


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Great news Jason. 

I wish they would publish a book of just the appendixes of all his books.


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## daveb (Jan 2, 2008)

For those interested, a couple of issues ago Live Steam magazine had an ad in it saying Kozo was returning to Live steam. It should be interesing.

Dave


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