# Rotary Snow Blower



## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

As you can see it is still a work in progress. The body parts are crude and only close to how it would look like on the RR.
So far the rotary assembly is complete, or so I think. Vacume cleaner vane, nothing new there, but I added pre vanes that will help push the snow into the vanes when spun in either direction. I added a directional flap to the top of the rotary assembly so the snow can be thrown to either side of the track. 
The rotary shaft is supported by ball bearings to reduce friction there. The rotary assembly will be driven by battery and an electric motor since I will be using it to clear a Steam Track, I can also use it to clear my electrified track. 
I am presently on hold waiting for a delivery of very nice machined Stainless Steel U joints and still researching motors.
I want to thank Jerry from Neb and Sean from Mass for their suggestions and encourgement in this project. Enjoy, i have and still am.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

What motor are you using Nick? Pix of it mounted?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I Don't have it yet, the shaft is still laying on the bottom of the car. I'm still researching possibilities. The one I have just doesn't seem powerful enough as I can easily stop it with my fingers. I thought after the holidays I'd go to my local hobby shop. They are deep into the large scale racing cars, and see just what they have. Between what they have to offer and my local Batteries Plus store II have a tough decision to make. LG


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good, I really like the chopper blades in front of the main impeller. I've thought about doing some similar, but...

Chuck


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I got my u-joint, but have not tried hooking it up to the new motor, or mounting the motor for that matter.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Another motor option is a replacement for gas engine starter. It is a high winding count, with a lot of torque.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are some pictures of my rotary. Unfortunately I didn't build it.




























Plow train extra.










I made the housing from a Delton caboose, that encounted a Colorado Hail storm.









It worked very well in Colorado, not so great in Virginia. That is why I like your cutters in the front.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

JPCaputo, very good idea, I've only seen them in magazines. Is that motor reversible??

Chuck, I have pics of the blower you have on my wall that you posted in the past. The windows and door give me inspiration to further cababalize the caboose I got the coupla from. That is the caboose I used from USAT, some hole in the roof. 
Is the snow in Co drier than the snow in Va?? is that why not so good?? just guessing. LG


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, there is on average a real difference between the snow in Colorado and the east, particularly here in Virginia. Western snow is usually drier and more fluffy. Not like the wet cement I encounter most of the time here in Virginia.

Unfortunately, Snow is 1:1, not "G" scale. The lighter and drier it is the better our plows will work, whether it is a wedge plow or a rotary.

I'm glad my pictures have been of some assistance.

I want some pictures of yours in action.

What part of the country do you call home?

Chuck

When you take it out for a workout, be sure to take it and your engine out an hour or more before you put them on the track. It is important to get the wheels cold. Or the snow will melt on the wheels and refreeze. This will prevent them from rolling.

One other suggestion, use body mounted rather than truck mounted couplers. That way you are pushing on the frame, not a truck that can easily derail.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, I reside in South Joysey so my snow will most likely be the same as yours in Va. Your pics have been an inspiration to me, and now even more to add the doors and windows from the caboose. I realize the wood planking will be different, but low budget RR's can only do with what they have. 
And you have added to my quandary??? should I scrap the box car I am using and convert the caboose I took the coupla from?? I've said in the past, it isn't the destination, it's the journey. And the more I think about it the more I want to do it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd say it depends on which car body does a better job of holding the motor, gears, etc. Windows and doors are part of rotary plows, largely because the crew members had to move around and needed the light and ventilation.

Remember it is. Your railroad you are the only one who has to be pleased with the result.

Chuck


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

http://www.buntbahn.de/modellbau/viewtopic.php?t=4594

great building log


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick

With our heavy wet snow, bring it out early, it will work better with less than an inch of snow. Spray the blades with "PAM" or some other oil. It will help keep the snow from sticking to the blades.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

chuck, PAM, great idea, I was going to try that on my shovel this year. Thank You.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have taken quite a detour of this journey since last posting. 
Since deciding to move from the box car to the Caboose I also thought I'd change the rotary housing I'd like to use a flat 4" to 2" but couldn't find one locally. I decided to make one and did so using a 4" cap and 2" coupler. If my measurements were right it will be centered and I can reuse the impeller and hopper assembly. This will also reduce the amount of modification I have to do the the floor of the car. Thank You, LG


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is my setup Nick. I used a cap also, just drilled a hole through it to hold the sleeve bearing the shaft from the blade goes through. Support with another sleeve bearing on the inside to the u-joint. Motor spins like crazy on 14v, so will first try a 9.6 and see how that does in the snow.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, I added the 2" coupler so I could re-use the BB shaft assembly. After removing the divider in the center of the coupler the whole rotary assembly will now just slide into the new housing. And I lucked out as it all is centered. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

This is what I have accomplished so far, and am very happy with the results. Doing the box car gave me the experience so as not to make the same mistakes again. Since most parts were screwed together it was fairly easy to transfer them to this one. This car took more frame mods as the truck had to be moved back 1mm so the truck could swivel properly. Still need to attach the hopper assembly. I also received the U joints I ordered, and what works of SS art they are. I still don't understand how they could be manufactured AND shipped for less than it cost me to sent a 1 lb post from S jersey to N jersey???

chuck, since I'm using a former caboose with a porch, and the couplers have very long extensions from the trucks, and I'd like to take your advice to body mount the coupler, my ?? is I'm thinking of body attaching the coupler further back than the rear porch to allow more swivel??? since the truck isn't close to the end of the car, your thoughts please.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick

What is the minimum diameter (radius) through which you will be pushing the plow? The caboose is a relatively short car. My recommendation would be to mount the coupler pocket under the platform ar the end of the car in the usual place.

If you are using 4' or 5' (LGB R1,2) diameter curves you might have to stay with truck mounted couplers. It could also depend on the engine and its coupler. 

You may have to try several options.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

chuck, still on line and appreciate your prompt response: I have 15' radius curves and will be using a LS 3 CYLINDER shay as pusher. The factory couplers are Link & Pin body mounted. For my other 2 cylinder shays I made several knuckle conversations that will also fit this one. So I guess to secure the coupler to the porch will be OK?? thank you.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

With those curves you won't have any problems with body mounted couplers. I don't see why you couldn't use link and pin on the plow. It would be relatively easy to adjust the heights so they match. 

I forgot to mention earlier, the the caboose body with the rotary mechanism looks great.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

chuck, thank you for your compliment. I never thought to use link and pin on the rotary, why not??

Also if I may add, I made it so the rotary blades could be adjusted to project in or out depending on the density of the snow. Sorry if the pic attached doesn't fully demonstrate my thought. If I loosen the screws I can adjust the sleeve which will move the 2" PVC shaft IN or OUT.. The drive attachment, which I haven't set up yet, will also be able to accommodate that.

Further Suggestions will be greatly appreciated, never too late to make improvements. THANK YOU


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## Beddhist (Dec 17, 2013)

How or where does the snow exit the housing?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Beddhist, I haven't finished the conversation yet, Pics of my previous start showed a shoot with a diverter on the top which I haven't moved over yet.
also, switching gears again. I ran the 3 Cylinder Shay yesterday afternoon. It wasn't very cold but was very difficult to maintain a head of steam as it is only Butane fired. Sitting on a shelf right in front of me is a Bachmann 3 Truck shay that I converted to battery and RC some time ago. Hoping the battery is still good enough to charge that will go on the track this afternoon for a test. 
?? for those that have done this before: I know the train has to brought down to outside temp, so how long before actual use should I put them outside?? My concern is the low temp will drop the battery's charge. 
All responses appreciated.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick

Can you easily remove the battery? If you can, leave it in the house until the last minute.

I usually take the plow and engine out about an hour before I start plowing.


Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, the battery took a charge without any trouble. The battery is in the third truck so can easily be kept inside while the loco is outside. Thank You


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I use a 6 volt gel cell to power the rotary. Temperature doesn't seem to bother it very much. At least it still turns at a speed to throw snow and lasts for about an hour. I don't know about other battery technologies.

Chuck

When you take the battery outside, you could wrap in in a wash cloth, or bubble wrap to give it a little insulation. If there is room.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, I do like the idea of using bubble wrap to insulate it, I already use it on windows on the windy side of the house and i know it is a great insulator, can easily feel the difference with just my hand. 
I mentioned on another forum that I was going to try the 'new to me' UV adhesive. I have, so far only have secured nuts to the parts of the assembly that I won't have easy access to, and am happy with it, and the screws are not effected at all. One thing I did find out is the darker the area you are applying and curing it in, the better the adhesion. If others have experience with it I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thank You


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, liking the look of yours, I took the door assembly that was removed from the front and installed in on the side. I still need to add grab irons and other details, making slow progress. I also removed half of the rear decking and steps but am leaving the whole roof length so the crew has cover in inclement weather. My thought is to make it appear like the rotary assembly is diesel powered and having a small trailing tank car for the fuel, just thinking.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL LIFE IS GOOD.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick

Looks, good. That I what I did with the back platform.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, that is what I thought when I saw the tender. 
I'm once again going off on a tangent. Now thinking to not use a trailing car but putting belly tanks under the car to hold the fuel. My thinking is a trailing car would carry much more than needed to just power the rotary assembly. I'm sure I either have something in the scrap box or can easily fabricate a reasonable facsimile. I am going to leave the porch and roof as they are, crew still needs consideration. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Following up on my last post: Since I was going to use on board tanks the crew no longer needed the rear porch and most of the roof over hang. I also moved the rear door to the other side of the car so now there is access from both sides. Now had to move the bolster holding the rear truck further inward to allow the wheels to clear the end of the now shortened car. As advised body mounted the coupler and designed a centering device using a pen spring to keep it centered, but yet very flexible. I also added a bumper to give the car a more modified and stronger look. Discarded the entire Truss Rod assembly to allow the tanks to be installed. Still undecided on the drive. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Here it is fully assembled minus a few steps and grab irons, most of all the drive. After much on line research, and not really understanding some of what I see, I'm going to my local hobby shop to see some of these things in person. Looking at race car motors and considering the air plane starting device recommended by JPCaputo. I especially want to thank Chuck and Jerry for their input on this project, and those that have shown interest giving me the incentive to continue.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Nick

Congratulations, looks great. Bring on the snow!!!

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

NOW I'm ready for the snow. Picked up a motor from my local hobby shop. Fashioned a bracket attempting to align the motor with the rotary shaft without using the U joints I purchased. I lucked out first try. It is now on the bench spinning for the last 25 minutes to make sure it doesn't blow itself apart. 
I tried spinning the motor in both directions and found when the rotary assembly is turning Clock Wise, looking at the front, the air flow from the discharge shoot is much stronger, so that will be how I use it, hopefully.
Going to test it with saw dust if the outside air calms down. LG


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

How are you powering it? 

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

The gel cell battery is sitting next to it on the bench. It will be a very tight fit at the very rear of the car but I'm hoping to go to Batteries + and use a Li-ion battery.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds good. Now for some snow!

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

UPDATE: some changes have taken place since last posting. First the rubber tubing connections have a tendency to fail at the 12V 15K rpms that the motor was spinning at. First I made the coupling assembly much more substantial using Ujoints and brass tubing. The motor is rated at 4.5-12VDC I started experimenting with different voltages using a Bridgewerks 10A power supply. Found that at 4.5V the motor was still very strong and the draft at the diverter shoot was also strong. Unfortunately the draw was 3A, I used separate Volt and Amp meters for the test and not the lighting strips on the power supply. For those of you using track power that may not be an issue, but using battery it is. Monday I will take my creation to my local Batteries Plus and hopefully Roy will be able to make a Ni power supply that will fit into the available spaces, he's a master at that. Thank You


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Since last posting I made brackets for 6V Gel Cell batteries that will be put in parallel, and a PWM speed control will be in the circuit so I can adjust the blade speed. That along with the ability to adjust the blades in and out of the unit I should be able to clear the track.
Looks like minor snow fall is in my future, and since I doubt the PWM speed control will be here by then I have a couple of 2V 2.5AH batteries, will be put in series and be at the ready for the test, camera charged up also. Going to do my best to move some snow before this winter has passed. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry to say that as the snow fell it also turned to slush as the temp was just above freezing in my area, so no test was done. Not giving up hope as if predictions are correct I should get more on Tuesday, got my fingers crossed.
BTW, on another forum I was asked the weight of the unit, it is 5lbs 0oz empty and 6lb 6 oz with batteries. If any one has any suggestions as what the weight should be, I'd appreciate any input, Thank You.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Such is life trying to throw 1:1 snow in the east with a 1:24ish rotary. The time will come when conditions will be perfect, take it from an experienced rotary operator. Conditions weren't always good in Colorado either.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, and others that followed the build: TODAY IT WORKED. The snow was very wet and heavy. My battery Shay refused to push it, so I did. While trying to push and take pics, unfortunately this is the best one I was able to get. I think it proves the point that it does work, even in the worst of situations. IS LIFE GOOD OR WHAT.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Great, congratulations!

I've used the five fingered pusher many times.

Chuck


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Chuck, thank you. I do feel good about it. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Made more progress this weekend. I wired the Gel Cell batteries in parallel so as to give me enough power to plow for one plus hours. Installed the Pulse Wave speed regulator and direction control switch. Put them on the outside to make access easy as the roof screws on and didn't want it to possibly fly off, I think they'll still be a bit concelled as it will be pushed by a locomotive, unlike the last test. I'd like to add another pound to the weight. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I decided that I could kill two birds with one stone. I wanted additional weight and longer run time. Decided additional Batteries were my answer. While making the stalls for the additional batteries I need to move the motor mount bracket. while doing so I drilled holes for more cooling of the motor and aligned the motor and rotary assembly much more precisely. This alone dropped the amperage draw by 1/2 amp and also almost doubled the run time, on the bench. The motor didn't get nearly as hot as before, and only became even warm to the touch after 45 minutes of run time. The additional batteries will not only add weight but even longer run. The meter readings shown are after 75 minutes of running. After the additional batteries arrive, all I will need is snow, but don't think that will happen till next year. Thank You


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

While wiring for the additional batteries, realizing all the power I now have, I couldn't resist the temptation. Installed lighting in the cap, the marker lights and installed a headlamp using resistors and LED's.
The additional switch on the back controls the newly installed lighting separate from the rotary controls. I also installed a distribution block that is sturdier than the termination block on the Pulse Wave circuit board to make battery charging easier and less likely to damage the delicate board. LG


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## on30gn15 (May 23, 2009)

Man, this is evolving in to quite the thing. 
On the cooling holes, how are they for keeping moisture out from snow being caught under plow?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes I do have a tendency to go over board with some things, especially now that I am retired and have the time and thankfully the ability to do so. 
I guess I didn't fully explain the cooling holes I mentioned previously. They are holes in the motor mount bracket that were not accounted for when I first fashioned it. There was always an opening under and to the sides of the Rotary Assembly to allow cooling air in. I figured the snow would have been blown away by then. 
BTW, I enjoy projects, and the longer they last the better. If I may mention another. I enjoyed myself assembling an early edition of the Hyde Out Mountain Diesel assembly and modifying the shell of an Aristo RS3 locomotive for it to fit and function, took me almost 9 months, but i was employed at that time. UTubes are out there of it running., Thank You Jerry it still runs great. LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Today's snow fall was again very wet and heavy. First attempt was another failure. I designed it so the blades would have the ability to be adjusted on the plow. Adjusted them further outward to grab the snow instead of letting it pile up against the plow. I was rewarded with the results as the attached pics attest to. Even when the snow was gathering at the plow, it still threw the chunks. Again not so much success with the pushing locomotive so had to use the 0-5-0 loco again. I'm happy with the outcome, LG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I realized a flaw in the ability to adjust the blade assembly. To adjust the blade I would have to cut a drive shaft of the desired length, which I did on the last test. I think I can make it better. Building a sliding drive shaft as on logging locomotives seemed to be the answer. The blade adjustment can now be made right on the track for the type of snow by loosening one screw and moving the blade assembly in or out. An additional benefit is it also gives movement of the motor shaft and lessen the stress on that assembly. I think I have run out of things to do to make this the best I can, but always open to suggestions. Thank You.


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