# Need advice on Bachmann Climax



## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

The LHS near my house, Roy's Trains, just picked up an estate and in the dusty stack of boxes was what I assume to be a first generation Bachmann Spectrum Climax engine. The box was in good shape for sitting for in a garage for no telling how long. Carefully opening the box revealed a "new" engine that didn't look like it was every taken out of the Styrofoam packaging.

I negotiated what I thought was a fair price with Roy and now have a Climax on my roster.


While I've been around for a while, I'm still a novice and would like advice from wiser hands here on the forum as to how best to prep this engine for running being as how it was been sitting in a garage for possibly years.

Oh, and any known gotcha's associated with this generation engine would also be most appreciated. 


Best,
TJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If TOC does not respond here, it would be worth a phone call to ask this question. Not too many people on the planet know as much about Bachmann mechanicals. 

Regards, Greg


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, 

Outstanding suggestion. If TOC does not pop in I'll give him a call. Thanks! 

Best, 
TJ


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

The original Climax release had a problem with potential binding due to a solid drive line which could bind up and cause over heating of the bolster power transmission bearings. To address this, Bachmann made a free rear drive shaft available which had a slip-joint incorporated into it. It's easy enough to turn the loco over and see if the rear drive shaft is the new one or the old one.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

My Bachmann Climax was new in 2003, and has the later 'slip'clutch' modification. In spite of a reputation gained from a report in GR that is was a pathetic puller, I have found the contrary to be true. Although it will not haul twenty loaded log cars, it WILL haul seven or eight plus a van - more than adequate to make a good impression on any on-lookers. 

Watch the DVD/Video that came with it, by a set of LaBelle lubes, and get to it. 

It really is a little gem. 

tac 
www.ovgrs.org 
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## LogSkidder01 (Jul 30, 2009)

As of February Bachmann still had the rear drive shafts in stock for $12 each. You will need a small Phillips screw driver for the very small screws in the U-joint. I often run a pair of Climaxes pulling eight to ten Accucraft log cars, couple of box cars and a bobber caboose. For comparison, I can pull the same set of cars with one of the three truck Shays. 

Ken


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a Bachmann Climax and have had it for a number of years. Lubricate it as per instructions. I run it regularly, and so far it has been a excellent runner. My curves are all 10' diameter or larger. Problems with the engine may be related to the curves as much as design.

I have no idea where in the production of the climax my engine came from. If there were modifications made along the production process, that could explain why some engines work better than others.


If so, how can we tell where our engine fits in the progression.

Chuck N 


I just reread Dwight's post. Mine has slip shafts on the both motor blocks. 


I would guess that is what you should look for, to see if one part of the shaft slips over the other part to compensate for curves.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine has slip shafts on the both motor blocks.Originally you only needed the slip-joint shaft on the rear. If memory serves, the problem was a binding between both trucks through the drive line, so only one such joint was necessary. While having slip-joints on both ends might be safer, I would think it may cause a lack of pulling power in certain circumstances. That's purely theoretical on my part as I have no practical experience with a Climax so equipped.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Dwight:

I wrote my previous post with out checking the engine. Your comment made me go out and check. Yes, my climax does have slip connections on both shafts. The front shaft is very short, and there isn't much movement, but there is some. The rear shaft is longer and has a lot more movement.

Chuck N 


PS: I haven't taxed the engine by pulling a lot. My usual consist is four long Accucraft skeleton cars with appropriate log loads and an Accucraft Westside Caboose.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By chuck n on 03 Aug 2010 08:01 PM 
Dwight:

I wrote my previous post with out checking the engine. Your comment made me go out and check. Yes, my climax does have slip connections on both shafts. The front shaft is very short, and there isn't much movement, but there is some. The rear shaft is longer and has a lot more movement.

Chuck N 


PS: I haven't taxed the engine by pulling a lot. My usual consist is four long Accucraft skeleton cars with appropriate log loads and an Accucraft Westside Caboose. 



That seems to me to be a perfectly reasonable consist to me, in view of the rather 'fragile' apprearance of the real loco. Of course, if you build your own log cars [I used the plans in GR a while back to build twelve of them], they are a lot lighter than the metal AccuCraft models - not as detailed either, but the 8 foot rule rules...

tac
www.ovgrs.org
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Good news! *Nonesuch Car and Foundry* is back in business after a long hiatus, and their fabulously detailed foam logs are once again available.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Everyone, 

Thanks for the great response! I'll check the engine tonight for the "slip-joint" modification (on either the rear or both drive shafts) and if it does not have it I'll contact Bachmann and see if a replacement can still be obtained. 

The box has all the original parts, figures, and a VHS tape for lube instructions. Unfortunately I don't have a VHS player any longer. I'll see if I can get a DVD of this or borrow a VHS player. 

I found a great page on George Schreyer's web site: 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips5/climax_tips.html 

I'm working my way through these tips but most are technically over my head. But some good pictures and advice on the drive chain binding problem and grease issues with the main gearbox. 
Installing a sound system looks like it may be beyond my meager skills as well. 

I know Roy still has some Sierra sound cards so I'll see if he has one left for a Climax. Oh, I heard that Roy also found a Heisler, a Shay, a Aristo Mallet and a number of other engines in the same estate. Not sure if the engines are "new in the box" or have been run if anyone is looking for any of these. Let me know if you want Roy's number. 

Thanks everyone for all your help! 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay, I checked the drivetrain and there is no sign of a slip-joint on either the front or rear drive bar. I have to contact Bachmann and see if I can still get the parts to correct the potential problem. I understand that calling for support with Bachmann is superior to trying to email them, correct? 

Best, 
TJ


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By tj-lee on 04 Aug 2010 11:07 PM 
Okay, I checked the drivetrain and there is no sign of a slip-joint on either the front or rear drive bar. I have to contact Bachmann and see if I can still get the parts to correct the potential problem. I understand that calling for support with Bachmann is superior to trying to email them, correct? 

Best, 
TJ Yup. You might as well email Atlantis rather than try it with Bachmann. You'll get a whole lot more response from a myth and legend than you will from the Bachmann reality.

tac
www.ovgrs.org
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

A phone call to Bachmann Parts department, a conversation with Jennifer, and I have purchased a replacement rear drive shaft with slip joint for the Climax engine. $11.00 plus shipping. 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

The slip-joint rear drive shaft arrived. No instructions whatsoever. Gonna have to rely entirely on George Schreyer's web page instructions. Hope to get the drive swapped out this weekend and run the new engine. 

Best, 
TJ


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm a little confused. If you have a slip joint on the front AND rear at the same time, which drives the flywheel/rods/pistons arrangement? The rear slip joint was to remove ONE truck from the mix, because, as stated above, they were binding on each other when one truck was, for whatever reason, getting ahead of the other. Putting the slip joint on one shaft solved that problem, but still allowed the front truck to drive the mechanism. Putting slip joints on both would, I think, keep the front mechanism from turning the actual "engine" part of the engine.....; 

Matthew (OV)


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

Ahh! On further reflection I think I have it. 

All climaxes (climaces?) have "Slip Joints" on both front and rear shafts, in that the square metal shaft fits into a square plastic receiver where the universal joint is... and therefore can slide in and out as the truck turns left and right. ALL of them have this. 

The "Slip Joint" in question refers to the practice, originally made by rounding off the hole and the shaft in the rear "slip joint" so that the universal end can turn independantly of the truck end (as well as sliding in and out) so that it doesn't actually apply any torque between the truck and the "engine" mechanism (again, this being the pistons, rods, valve gear, and flywheels) while the front one (with the square shaft and socket still applying torque) do. 

So, hopefully we're all talking about the same thing here ... the "slip joint" in question is the rotational one, not the telescoping one. If you have a new Climax (or retrofitted one) with the factory "slip joint" you can see the division aft of the universal joint where the shaft can turn independantly .... if you do the self-mod, since you're just rounding off both the shaft and the receiver, you won't see anything, but you'll be able to turn the engine mechanism (with the front shaft disconnected) with the rear shaft in place. If you have an old, unmodified climax, both the front and rear shafts apply torque to the engine mechanism... and you must disconnect both to rotate it by hand. Because of this, if one truck runs faster than the other (due to motor speed, tight curve, whatever...) the shaft is trying to turn at two different speeds and binds.... the weak point ususally being the gears behind the flywheels, which you'll hear snapping and popping. 

Hope that helps. 

Matthew (OV)


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

The rotational slip joint is really a friction clutch.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

George, 

Any advice beyond what's on your Web site? As you mentioned there are no instructions with the replacement drive piece. Just the one section and a small plastic part that I have no idea what to do with. Any tips? 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

I manged to replace the drive shaft with the replacement from Bachmann with the friction clutch. Still no idea what to do with the tiny plastic Y piece with the even tinier pin that came with it. 

Anyway, does anyone know where I can find an exploded diagram of the original Climax? I want to remove the tender shell and while undid the two screws under the water valves it won't lift up enough to disengage the brackets at the rear. Any help would be appreciated! 

best, 
TJ Lee


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

TJ, 

I have the original book that came with my Climax. I can scan it if you would like. PM me with your email address and I will get it out to you in a day or two. 

Bob C.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

The tender may need a little prodding to break it loose the first time. Pry from the front, very gently. It will pop up. Then you can remove the tender but be careful of the clips in the back. Once the shell is loose, you may have to wiggle it a lot to get the clips to release. 

I don't recall any other pieces that came with the drive shaft.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

George, 

I'll take some pix of the "extra" parts and post them to this thread this weekend. Thanks for the advice on removing the tender. I'll let you know how that works out. 

Bob C., 

Not sure how to PM to you. But if you go here: 

http://sites.google.com/site/garden-railroad/ 

there's an email link to me in the last paragraph on the right side. 

Best, 
TJ


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Bob C., 

Glad you got my PM (it was way too easy for me to figure out the first try). 

I want to thank you for taking the time and trouble to scan and send me that manual. It will make things much easier! I don't know why I did not get one in the box, everything else was new right down to the VHS tape, the two figures, and the plastic bag of miscellaneous parts. 

But you really went above and beyond and I really appreciate it. 

Best regards, 
TJ


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## Gary Woolard (Jan 2, 2008)

Gosh Durn it, I' ve tried several times now to send a message to Bob C. via P.M., and each time it's hung while "processing my message"

Bob, could I get a copy of that scanned manual? I've got a Climax sitting here that I bought used -- the seller had attempted to switch it to battery power, but I'd like to switch it back, or at least make sure I can get it working! No docs, no tape..

If you can P.M. me, I can send you my email. Thanks in advance for the trouble..


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