# derailment problems



## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

I have been having a lot of derailment problems lately, went and bought an aristo tool that measures all that stuff, got it last nite, went and checked my spacing between rails, I have a some spaces that are real tight, I think that could be a major problem, 1st question is how do you get them to space apart more and to get them to stay that way.

2nd question is some of my 50ft boxcars and 40 ft boxcars derail all the time, those are the one with lighter wheel assemblies, would just adding weight be o.k.? 

Thanks for the help!!

tom h


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Best idea, and most common problem is bad back to back on the wheelsets... Your Aristo gauge has a place for this, a min and a max, your wheels should be loose on the min. 

Unless you are running curves under 6ft diameter, your boxcars should not be derailing. 

After you check the wheelsets, check your track. 

The normal thing that I have seen dozens of times is to try to blame it on the rolling stock because "only such and such car derails", when the trackwork is actually bad and those cars are just the FIRST to derail. 

Where do the derailments occur? Describe the track, and if there are switches close by. 

Also, the track curvature needs to be known. 

put a short level crosswise on the rails and see if the track is level. 

Start there, trust me, I've been there and done that. 

Get your trackwork right first, it is the foundation of your railroad. 

Regards, Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By tom h on 29 Jul 2009 07:44 PM 
I have a some spaces that are real tight, I think that could be a major problem, 1st question is how do you get them to space apart more and to get them to stay that way.


Thanks for the help!!

tom h




The only ways I've found to make the spacing wider with AristoCraft track is to shove a piece of wire between the inside "fish plate" and rail to push the rails out to the ends of the plastic as far as possible, and with a file along the inner side of each rail.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You might look to see if some pressure or expansion is causing this. 

Regards, Greg


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

Try adding some weight to the cars. It is a simple thing to try and it often works.
Russ


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

I knew I should of explained more, I have USA track and 10ft curves, 2ft sections, and its in a spot that has kinda a real lazt S, but I have 4 ft in between curves, and the curves are only 1 section of a 10ft curve, the level of the track is fine, no switches anywhere close, usually happens in same place, right where it gets real tight, thanks Greg I will check those wheels because it seems like the same cars keep doing it, would taking out the screws underneath help?

tom h


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Tom, your track is not "tight", so you should be able to have perfect trackwork. I run 45 car trains on 10' dia curves with only a single 1 foot in between. 

The typical thing on wheels is that they are undergauge, but check them first. 

Can you measure the actual gauge on the "tight" sections? Harbor Freight has digital calipers for about 10 bucks, a worthwhile investment. I have tight gauge in a couple of spots but it has not caused any problems, because properly gauged wheelsets still have some "slop" on properly gauged track. 

I do not think taking out the screws will help, they may be keeping the track from gettin worse! See if you can tell if there is some pressure that could explain this, like expansion with no place to go. I agree with Todd's suggestion, I've heard it from several people also. 

Regards, Greg


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom,
If you check the guage on the track and it is looser/tighter than acceptable, you can use a set of vice grips to gently flex the track apart or together slightly. I used the Aristo guage to check the track spacing. I also did a second check using a digital calliper from Harbor freight.

Another suggestion: Take a camcorder and put it at track level slightly past the point where the derailments occur. Then run the train through. By looking at the tape in slow motion, you may find out the exact point where the problem is like I did with my K-4. 
See youtube link for example of what I am talking about. The track was a 6.5in curve and pinched slightly below spec. The combination of the two issues on an engine designed to work on 8ft track caused the front truck to pop off the track almost every pass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuWA5JV6KvY



JimC


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the ideas Jim, I have to get one of those calipers yet, dont have time for it yet ( My son and I are going on our first fishing trip this weekend







)

When I get back I think I am going to try to make it wider with the vise grips, I did run the engine slow through a couple of spots where it always derails, seems like its always one car, I think it needs some weight, I have to check it with my sons switcher engine and his cars to make sure its not just a weight issue.

I did adjust the track at some joints, seemed real loose at some of them, right where it derails all the time its a 2 1/2 foot drop, thats why its bugging me, I already saw my new 50 ft boxcar go down







.

Tom H


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom,
Before adjusting with vice grips, be sure to check the gauge with either the calliper or the track gauge.

JimC.


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

O.k., I was just going to do the real tight spots just to see if it pulls it out a bit.

Tom H


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