# Mobile One automotive oil as a train lube



## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

To all: 

As I noted on the companion site Large Scale Online, I will be making a change to lubing rolling stock axles and loco parts with Mobile One synthetic automobile engine oil. This decision is based on two sources having over four years of continual product experience. 

Apparently, this synthetic engine oil is plastic compatible. Granted, compatibility may not be exclusive to Mobile One as there are other brands of synthetic motor oil. Meanwhile, both long-time users of Mobile One say there has been no damage to either locos or their rolling stock. Comparisons in cost with LGB's products are obvious. Futhermore, a long-time employee with LGB indicated to me LGB's oil in their "oiler pens" was actually a brand of transmission oil they had packaged. Transmission oil compatibility with plastic fits considering the composition of internal automotive automatic transmission valves and servos. I now have good use for those empty LaBelle oil bottles with their convenient application tubes. 

What has been your experience with synthetic motor oil used as a model train lubricant? 

Thanks, 
Wendell


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I donn't know I have not tried it.....................yet /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif 

But I sure will look into it. 

I use it in my cars.( as in automobile)


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## wthumbtzen (Jan 10, 2008)

I have used Mobil1 exclusively for as long as I can remember in my automobiles and in my trains. It is the best. A friend of mine comparison tested Mobil1 against Castrol Synthetic and found rpms and power output significantly higher with Mobil1. NASA uses Mobil1 in space shuttles. 
Bill


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Bill- 
Have you seen any evidence of wear -- even miniscule -- that would not have been present if the standard lube, e.g. LGB/Bachmann/Aristo, etc. - were used? This evidence of Mobile One being a positive comparable product means a big savings over the hobby shop products. 
Thanks for the input. 

Wendell


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Mobil 1 is the BEST. I've used it exclusively since 1971 in all my motorized vehicles...lawn mowers....shredders, etc. This stuff does NOT: 
a. breakdown under heat (got a wife that WILL drive a car with the engine light on) 
b. evaporate 
c. oxidize (least I can't see it do it) 

And it: 
a. sticks to what it's coated onto...providing lubrication...even when massively HOT 
b. doesn't thicken at low temperature...much easier to start a BIG engine with Mobil 1 in it 
c. keeps "dirt" in the oil...allowing the filter to remove it (remember the non-detergent vs detergent oil wars in the 70s??? Mobil 1 is MASSIVELY detergent...that's why it's black after just a few miles driving with it 
d. has a LONG life...in fact, the US Army does NOT change oil in it's trucks in Alaska...it changes filters...and adds a quart of Mobile 1. The "chemistry" tests show that Mobil 1 does NOT lose it's lubrication power...but it does lose some of its additives...ergo the "add a quart" to replace the additives. 
e. is expanding in coverage of lubrication issues...transmissions, many automotive viscosities, etc.... 

Based on the above, I'd think the 5W version of Mobil 1 would work VERY well in lubricating GRR engines. Even if the journals get dirty...the Mobil 1 will keep the dirt in suspension so that you can clean it easily...vs grinding in the bearing. 

Downsides...remember the part where I said it doesn't evaporate? It really doesn't....so do NOT over lube your drivetrain...it will suck up all dirt around. 

I KNOW it will handle Live Steam cylindar temps...but I don't know if it has a thick enough viscosity to replace steam oil...but, I'd bet it would be a better lubricant than regular steam oil.


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike and all: 

I bought a quart of Mobile One 10-30 weight. 
I am guessing this weight or the 5-30 weight is comparable to the LeBelle 107 light oil. 

For those who use the Mobile One, is it accurate the lower number is the oil weight that will be consistent with our outdoor locos and rolling stock? In short, there is no way enough heat is generated to activate the viscosity improver to raise the oil weight upwards beyond 10 or 5 weight? 

Any further thoughts on oil weight choice? 
Do we have any chemically-savy readers who would comment/ 

Thanks, 
Wendell


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Ok This is going to sound stupid. 

Those of you who have converted from regular oil to Moble 1 in your cars. 

Have you noticed any change in your engine performace at all? 

I think I have but I am not sure if it is for real or just my "imagination" thinking it has changed.


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## lurch (Dec 27, 2007)

I get 3 to 5 mpg more when using Mobil 1. I am a mechanic and this stuff really keeps an engine clean inside. Worth every penny.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By John J on 06/26/2008 6:26 PM 
Ok This is going to sound stupid. 
Those of you who have converted from regular oil to Moble 1 in your cars. 
Have you noticed any change in your engine performace at all? 
I think I have but I am not sure if it is for real or just my "imagination" thinking it has changed. 


Yeah...it's the real deal JJ. 

One...started using it in 1971 in my Oldsmobile (tank) station wagon with a 455 cu in engine. In the winter, the engine lugged when I turned the ignition...and caught after a few seconds. With the Mobil 1, it started instantly. 

Two...after a month in the engine, the Mobil 1 was black...black black...indicating that it was scouring out the crap in all of the engine...and letting the filter do its job...filtering. After the next oil change, it was black after a month. After the next oil change, it took two months to get black. This stuff keeps dirt in suspension...and cleans your engine of sludge. 

Three...I had an 8 to 9 MPG three ton Olds wagon that became a 11 to 12 MPG three ton Olds wagon. That alone paid for the (then) $3 cost per quart of the Mobil 1. 

Fourth...I have a wife that will NOT pull over to the side of a freeway IF the engine light goes on. She'll drive all the way home to tell me the light is on. That happened 4 times...cooling system issues. I could find NO damage to the engine even after driving it for 5 minutes with no (minimal) water in the radiator. Car ran fine after I fixed the cooling issues...and continued for years.

Lastly....Mobil 1 is 15,000 mile oil...at least. Like I said earlier...the Army does NOT change the oil in their Alaska trucks...they just top off the oil to keep it full...and change the filter every 7500 miles. I've followed a 15,000 mile oil change practice for 37 years with a new filter every 7500 miles and had NO problems...cept on the only new car I've ever bought...where I follow the 5,000 mile oil change intervals...but I pay to have Mobil 1 put in that too.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

One more thing...if you're feeling "rich"....Mobil 1 makes a transmission fluid too...and it is flat bulletproof for 1 million mile kinda driving...OR driving a vehicle with an auto transmission that is hauling weight or pulling heavy. You'll NEVER loose a transmission with this stuff...just ask ANY pro drag racer...or NASCAR racer. You'll find Mobil 1 stickers on most if not all NASCAR cars...right behind the left front tire on the side panel...kinda Mobil 1's reserved spot for a sticker. I say "rich" because trannies hold a LOT of tranny fluid...and you need to change all of it...transmission AND torque converter.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a good source of all kinds of oil info: 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php 

....but like any forum, there is some "chaff" to dig through to get to the good stuff. 

Check out the main site too, not just the forum.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree completely with everything Mike and Lurch said as well as Wendell. Mobil 1 is simply an excellent product. I have found the same, when you use Mobil 1 from the get go, it keeps the underside of valve covers PERFECTLY clean, no build-up whatsoever. I also have one vehicle an 1987 Chrysler Conquest which is a turbocharged 2.4L 4 cylinder which currently has 138k miles. I did a compression test before replacing the headgasket not many miles before this and got a reading of 142lbs with the factory spec being 147. That's 5lbs off on a turbo charged vehicle and on these especially that is almost unheard of. Most folks are down to 80lbs by this point and are looking at engine rebuilds. I use the stuff in everything I can except my Honda auto trannies. Another example that I found and had to dig to find (as truly objective reviews can be hard to fine) was a fellow that had a BMW 325i that he put 100k miles on, changing oil every 15k miles and running only mobil 1. After the 100k, he did a compression test and was factory spec on every cylinder. After what I saw with my Conquest I completely believe it. 

On the train end, I've been using Mobil 1 since I first started into the hobby in 2004 and have had no issues or problems at all from the oil attacking the plastic. As Mike said, this stuff never evaporates and as a result doesn't gum or dry up. I have found that the 0-30w(I think it is or is it the 0-20, can't remember off hand) does seem to be thinner than even the 5-30w so I have gone to that for connecting rods etc. Now that Mobil has released the extended life oil (15k mile guarantee change interval) I've now moved to that. 

It should also be noted that Mobil 1 is actually no longer a true synthetic oil. (In fact some of you may have noticed when they switched as the oil became darker brown than the original light gold color.) Well Mobil sued Castrol for false advertising for selling highly refined dino oil as "full synthetic" (Castrol Syntec). Well they LOST the suit if you can believe it! Mobil apparently decided, well if they can do it so can we so they changed over.(The evidence of this is on some older Mobil 1 bottles you will see the term (Exclusive of carrier oil) which means dino oil. The end result from reading a very detail discussion on it was you can actually get almost the same properties and performance with highly refined dino oil + additives as you can with true full synthetic. I have noticed now however that the new extended life mobil 1 has that original light gold color again and wonder if they are now producing the true synthetic again in that product line. 

Raymond


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Rayman4449 on 06/29/2008 12:39 AM

...It should also be noted that Mobil 1 is actually no longer a true synthetic oil. (In fact some of you may have noticed when they switched as the oil became darker brown than the original light gold color.) Well Mobil sued Castrol for false advertising for selling highly refined dino oil as "full synthetic" (Castrol Syntec). Well they LOST the suit if you can believe it! Mobil apparently decided, well if they can do it so can we so they changed over.(The evidence of this is on some older Mobil 1 bottles you will see the term (Exclusive of carrier oil) which means dino oil. The end result from reading a very detail discussion on it was you can actually get almost the same properties and performance with highly refined dino oil + additives as you can with true full synthetic. I have noticed now however that the new extended life mobil 1 has that original light gold color again and wonder if they are now producing the true synthetic again in that product line. 
Raymond




Can you tell me where you got the information that Mobil 1 is NO LONGER a true synthetic oil? All of the product data sheets for Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 Extended Performance use the term "fully synthetic" or "synthetic". The product data sheets for the Mobil Clean series of oil say a "blend of synthetic and conventional quality base stocks" or "high quality base stocks"...which means dino oil. 

Also I noted that there is this new Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy product that was developed to reduce wear in engines when they're started and cold. There's a good description of how it works on the web page for this oil...and it focuses on improved lubrication of COLD metal. This looks like the stuff I'd use on the sparky models because I can't imagine them the bearings getting HOT by motor oil standards. For the live steam models, it looks great too for the general lube...and it will stand the heat of the engine as well. 

One last point...Mobil 1 does NOT look like it will work as a steam oil...to thin. Steam oils are in the 80 - 100 viscosity index area...and mix with steam well. I don't think Mobil 1 would mix at all with water/steam...otherwise the engine light experiences should have resulted in a lost block.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Sure. I think this is where I first read it. The info on the exclusive of carrier oil may have come from somewhere else. It's been three years since I first read up on all this. 

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html See under the Group II Group III section. Here is the specific writeup: 

************************** 
In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed. 

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics. 
************************** 

If you have time to read the entire webpage it has a lot of interesting information. 


Raymond


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks...


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## Road Foreman (Jan 2, 2008)

Guys, 

Mobil 1 is good stuff.. Back in the mid '80s I put it in a Chevy 1/2 ton pick-up that had 85K miles on it.. @ the same time I switched it to LP.. I had added duel oil filters.. @ the 185K mile mark removed the LP system & back to gas.. The Chevy burned 1 quart every 2.5K miles ( no smoke & no plug problems ) & I changed the filters every 10K miles.. The Chevy left the family with 245K miles.. Wish I had it back.. 

BulletBob


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

My attempt at using Mobil 1 in my VW didn't turn out well. I have their 4 cylinder turbo in my passat, and that apparently takes 0W-40 for Mobil 1. Of course, it was a dealer shop telling me that after I had purchased 10W-30 for their use in the oil change. 

I think the current shop I use puts that Castrol Syntac in. Have had good luck with this car, after 6 years and 166,000 miles. Only had to replace the steering rack two weeks ago, and that has been the biggest component replacement to date. I don't think I'd get another automatic tranny next time. A manual with this engine would be a lot more fun to drive. 

Mark


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Why did you buy the 10-30w? I would use what the owners manual says to use.


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## markoles (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray- didn't plan ahead! It wasn't until I showed up with the 5 qts of oil that the dealer told me for Mobil 1, 0W-40 is the only type they'll put in. Otherwise, it is 5W-30. Its probably a German thing. I decided a while ago that I don't really want to work on my own vehicles. Better to let someone who does that as their livelyhood do it. Luckily, I have a relatively honest mechanic who only works on VW and Audis. Example: the steering rack was quoted by the dealer at $1200 for the part. This guy did the whole install, alignment and an oil change for $600. But, even though I don't really like working on my car, being a VW owner, you have to learn at least a few things, like how to change light bulbs, etc.. 

Car question- If I switched it over to Mobil 1, I am guessing I'd need to change my filter sooner than 3-5K miles, right? Would it be sooner for the first time or two? Maybe it is time I started doing my own oil changes. The real problem is what to do with the waste oil? I suppose I can dump it in our waste oil bins, but that might get a little dodgy. 

It is interesting that Mobil 1 is used by folks for lubing their trains. You guys are talking about using this oil for lubing the axles and siderods, etc.. not the gears, correct? Maybe when I finish off this LGB oiling pen I have...


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hehe don't worry, happens to the best of us. 

No, you can wait till your next oil change interval before you replace the filter. It won't hurt anything. 'Synthetic' is compatible with conventional oil. The local autopart stores accept (or should accept) the used oil now. All the ones in my area do. Just bring it in and they dump it for you, for free. 

Yeah, I use Mobil 1 on everything except the gears. I've actually been trying to research a full synthetic food grade grease that could be used in gears. 


Raymond


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

That 0W-40 Mobil 1 specifically designed for cars with turbochargers...that's why they said it was the only oil they'd use. The 0W part means is has the viscosity of water at cold temperature...which is important for the turbo when it's cold and you're starting the car...it actually keeps it lubed as it comes up to temperature. They gave you GOOD advice. 

Regular filter changes...like at 5000 miles...or 7500 miles...and topping the Mobil 1 off to full has been my pattern for 30 some years. Changing the filter regularly is important because Mobil 1 excells at keeping the dirt in suspension in the oil (that's why it is so black) and it's the filter that removes the dirt. Because I've saved on oil change costs (the labor), I've invested in the better oil filters all this time...been using the top end Fram filters.


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Any replacement, that is easily purchased, equivalent to the LGB grease in the all-too-familar pricy squeeze tube?


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

There are some companies that produce food grade greases and some have special tackiness additives which would be good/necessary for our gears. All this in a variety of thicknesses I got some info and sent some emails but never got replies. Just never followed-up on it. 

Raymond


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

One word : AMSOIL, when only THE best will do.


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Raymond - thanks for your input. 
There's more..... 

I did find, on the Mobil One website, reference to Mobil 1 grease. Interesting, there is a lengthy product summary including a health and safety statement: 
"...this product is not expected to produce adverse effects on health when used for the intended application.." It is a lithium soap base. Maybe we are close to discovery of an LGB replacement. 

I found a technical support phone number and will call on Monday, July 7, and see what I can discover as to plastic compatibility. My guess is the forumula for their grease is similar to their "oil;" so it is plastic compatible. 

The giant outdoor railway volunteers in Palm Desert, Calif., The LIving Desert Museum, will be estatic if there is a compatible product compared to the $8.00 plus squeeze tubes of LGB product. the Mobil One replacement for the "LGB lube tubes" of oil or LaBelle's oil was a BIG savings. 

More later. 

Wendell


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Mobil One Synthetic Grease -- OK for model train gears? 
From the technical support office at Mobil Corporation (1-800-662-4525) the technical advice was simple: "If any plastic gearing on the model trains can handle mineral oil, then Mobil One synthetic grease will be fine." 

I offered that collective experience is showing Mobil One synthetic oil (for car engines) works well as a lubricant for model train axles, etc., therefore, the Mobil One synthetic grease would likely be equally successful. The technical advice remained the same affirming that their grease is "a synthetic base fluid with a lithium complex soap thickener and likely will be no problem." 

What container inventions do you suggest to hold and apply grease to be taken from the Mobile 1 automotive grease gun tube packaging ? 


Wendell


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the great info Wendell. 

I've found I just pop the top on one and scoop it out as needed. I haven't used the grease gun grease on my gears yet although I seem to remember testing it once and can't remember if the grease stuck to the gears (i.e. had sufficient tackiness to hold on and not come off.) I would need to retest. 


Raymond


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Raymond- 
Please do make a test. The claim in the specs -- Mobil website -- is that the grease is has, for other language, staying power and is resistant to water washing away the grease (ball joints?). 
Let us know if you see any difference from X brand (I'm guessing that LGB's grease is a standard or even LaBelle's white grease with "teflon" additive might be a comparison). 

Please let us know. 

Wendell


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## gtrainman (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By Wendell Hanks on 07/05/2008 1:17 PM
Any replacement, that is easily purchased, equivalent to the LGB grease in the all-too-familar pricy squeeze tube?




Ever use fishing real lube.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

It may be sometime before I'll be able to check this out myself but will report back. 

Also on the oil filter change intervals, Mobil 1's line of filters either all is or now has an extended life change filter available for the extended change intervals. I personally won't be changing the filter any sooner than the oil now that I've gone to the extended oil change periods. 


Raymond


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Raymond- 
I'll open up one of my moguls and apply some grease -- watch it to see if it spins off. Is this the "test"? Any other thoughts? 
Wendell


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, that’s what would do it. It’s such that from what I remember as I think I tested it on my MTH Challenger before (just can’t remember for 100%) and after running it just a bit, it didn’t adhere to the worm gear like the original grease did as it didn’t seem to be as sticky (tacky) as the original. 

Raymond


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Mobil One Synthetic Grease: I choose the one pound can for ease of use vs. the "lube gun tube" container. Cost was $6.20 
The grease is visually easy to use as it is colored -- I was told a red color. 

Test for "sticky" capacity: Gears on both sides of the motor in a Hartland "Mack" switcher were cleaned along with the gear on each of the two axles. 
LGB's grease - in the $8.00+ white tube - was applied to one gear set and Mobil One applied to the other set. The motor block was reassembled, tightened, and the loco ran for 3 minutes at high speed on a stand. Once opened and assessed, the outcome was no difference visually as to the quantity of lube remaining on either gear set. However, the LGB grease was considerably more liquified -- almost now like a heavy oil. The Mobil One remained visually as grease and continued covering both the motor and axle gears. The same for the LGB, as their was coverage with the note of the effect now being more like a heavy oil. All gears, independent of product, remained visually covered and wiping with a kleenex and Q-tip showed substantial amounts remaining no matter the type of lube. 

CONCLUSION: 
Other tests on other locos may be in order -- please conduct same and report to us. 
At this point, I find no significicant differences in the lubrication capacity between either product. 
Cost is the key factor. 

Wendell


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## gtrainman (Jan 5, 2008)

The LGB grease is fine. 
The other grease your trying will be stiff once it get chilly or cold outside, perhaps to stiff to lube correctly. 
LGB grease is light weight, not like automotive type grease. 
If you run your trains outside near freezing I think you will find that the automotive type grease will put a great drag on the gears and motor once it gets cold outside and the grease stiffens like glue. 
Been there done it!


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

gtrainman and all: 

The bigger question, unasked to this point, will LGB/Marklin continue to market the LGB "grease." 
Granted, testing the freezing property of Mobil One is not insurmountable, and I am curious as to the effect -- as well as heeding your concern until tested. 

Further.... 
I have asked if you are employed by either Silvergate or Marklin and therefore can be a source for information that is not speculative -- as so much often is the case. One response to this question asked earlier was responded to by a reader that you are an active LGB enthusiast and not an employee of either company. 
Is this accurate? 

Thanks, 
Wendell


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Good points and Wendell, thanks for providing your great review and thoughts on the testing. I will give it a shot next time I get a chance.  

Raymond


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## gtrainman (Jan 5, 2008)

Wendell, 

One thing you can bank on, I do not speculate !


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## pacbelt (Jul 8, 2008)

Speaking as an ASE certified Auto Technician of 23 years, I have seen marked differences in performance and longevity between convential and synthetic oils - lots of other people have too. 
Finding out that Mobil 1 is plastic compatible, well I just found that out today! " border=0> 

I have used Mobil 1 exclusively most of my life, and have taken apart engines with almost 200,000 miles with only slight signs of wear (with few exception - engines built with softer bearings in the 80's) 

A couple of fallicies I can clear up: 
1. Changing to synthetic DOES NOT cause leaks! What happens is; over time when your engine's gaskets deteriorate, and if you are part of the some who wait too long between oil changes and/or use inferior oil, sludge builds up around the gaskets, further deteriating the gaskets, because sludge contains combustion by-products that are corrosive. 
After the change to synthetic, which has high cleaning properties, the sludge is washed away from those gaskets, exposing breaches, and leaking out. 

2. Synthetic oil DOES NOT give you more power or better fuel economy! 
It does however, make the engine more efficient by giving better lubrication at all temperatures and driving situations. This causes your engine to unlock more of it's performance and efficiency. I'm just saying, lubricants ton't make horsepower, better lubricants unlock it! 

I should add that Synthetic oil should be the only oil used in turbo-charged engines. It's the only oil tested and proven to prevent coking and scarring of hot, high-speed turbo shafts. 

About Mobil 1 no longer being pure synthetic; I don't know! I would like to know. That's information we all could use!


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By pacbelt  on 07/13/2008 4:44 PM
Speaking as an ASE certified Auto Technician of 23 years, I have seen marked differences in performance and longevity between convential and synthetic oils - lots of other people have too. 
Finding out that Mobil 1 is plastic compatible, well I just found that out today! " border=0>" border=0> 
I have used Mobil 1 exclusively most of my life, and have taken apart engines with almost 200,000 miles with only slight signs of wear (with few exception - engines built with softer bearings in the 80's) 
A couple of fallicies I can clear up: 
1. Changing to synthetic DOES NOT cause leaks! What happens is; over time when your engine's gaskets deteriorate, and if you are part of the some who wait too long between oil changes and/or use inferior oil, sludge builds up around the gaskets, further deteriating the gaskets, because sludge contains combustion by-products that are corrosive. 
After the change to synthetic, which has high cleaning properties, the sludge is washed away from those gaskets, exposing breaches, and leaking out. 
2. Synthetic oil DOES NOT give you more power or better fuel economy! 
It does however, make the engine more efficient by giving better lubrication at all temperatures and driving situations. This causes your engine to unlock more of it's performance and efficiency. I'm just saying, lubricants ton't make horsepower, better lubricants unlock it! 
I should add that Synthetic oil should be the only oil used in turbo-charged engines. It's the only oil tested and proven to prevent coking and scarring of hot, high-speed turbo shafts. 
About Mobil 1 no longer being pure synthetic; I don't know! I would like to know. That's information we all could use!




Very good points and I agree with all of them. (I've always gotten a good chuckle out of the "causes leaks" belief.) I will add that I replaced my Conquest's turbo charger around 130k miles which again is almost unheard of durability as most get ~80k. Others were complaining of turbo failure from the turbo oil feeder lines clogging from caking. When I pulled mine apart, it was perfectly clean and clear. If you have ever seen a turbo charger and exhaust manifold right after driving a turbo charged car on the freeway you would find that just as amazing as I do. They are all glowing red hot! 

While I do believe the standard Mobil 1 is now highly refined dino oil, I really think the new extended life product is true synthetic. 

Raymond


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## Wendell Hanks (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's my latest "testing" of the Mobil One synthetic grease vs. LGB's grease (tube). In response to the above posting concerning possible freezing of synthetic grease on our loco gears: 

I took equal amounts of both the LGB and the Mobil One, placed the Mobil One grease in an empty LGB squeeze tube container and using a equally full tube of LGB, put them both in the freezer section of our refrigerator. 

RESULTS: 
After three hours, neither one showed any more or less consistency thickening than the other. Granted, squeezing the closed tubes was one unscientific method, the second was to squeeze out the grease and evaluate it. Yes, the Mobil One is thicker in the first place -- once out on a plate alongside the LGB, I found them both still stiff but not in any way frozen. 


OUTCOME: 
Don't run your trains in the snow unless you "warm up" the motors by running them a few moments to make sure the grease is on all the gears. 

I welcome your trying your own experiments and report in. 
With LGB's grease now difficult to find -- albeit outside the cost -- this series of postings shows an interest in discovering what may have been available to us all along. 

Wendell


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Wendell for the great info and testing. 

Raymond


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Wendell, 

I took another serious look at the Mobil 1 grease after your post and everything you provided and just redid my Challenger gears (all metal) with the Mobil 1. Of the other greases that I've seen the Mobil 1 does in fact have a tackiness that is better than some of the others. (like the thin white lithium grease it seems most of the mfgs use.) I think in my prior test a long time ago I was a little afraid (as I was new to all this) and didn't really work it into the gears. I'm going to run it some and check the front motor and report back. I think I will be moving to Mobil 1 grease as well. 

For me the level of thickness and tack helps to add that little bit of extra smoothness to my DCS engines at 1 SMPH. 

On Mobil 1 grease being plastic safe, I am of the same opinion as you that it should be safe and I'm not too concerned. 

Thanks! Good thread.  


Raymond


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