# Soldering aluminum?



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Is there any way to solder aluminum? My attempts have been fruitless, but perhaps there's just some trick to it that I'm unaware of.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); BTW, what's all that html gibberish that keeps getting added to my posts lately?? 


Edit: Well, some posts anyway. Not sure why. I'm not using any html in the posts.


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## Nutz-n-Bolts (Aug 12, 2010)

Ray,I could be wrong but I don't think you can solder it though conventional means. There is however, a product called Alimiweld. which boasts strong tough joints. their site: 

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/more_info.asp 

There is a great video in the upper right of this page. I haven't gotten any my self yet but it's on my shopping list. 

As for the recent garble in your posts this is a result of posting using Google Chrome as your browser. I hear that Safari can also cause it. The only way to avoid it is to use different browser (I use Firefox) when posting on MLS. Some have also said it's possible edit your post three times and some how delete it out but I'm not into spending that kind of energy on a post.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray; 

Many years ago I bought some solder that was special for aluminum at Radio Shack. Used it to solder the electrical leads to some code 250 aluminum track on a 4X2 module. It seemed to work fairly well. Took a couple of tries, but I attributed that to the operator's (me) learning curve. 

You could check to see whether Radio Shack still carries the product. 

Yours, 
David Meashey


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

*http://www.solder-it.com...trong>**








*


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks, I'll give that stuff a try.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I read about how to solder aluminium with regular 60/40 solder and tried it and it worked! But it was a lot of hard work and would be very difficult in most situations. I soldered two sheets of aluminium together by forming a "V" trough to pool the solder in, then with a torch keeping a big puddle of solder in the liquid state, take a stiff steel wire brush and scrub the surface of the aluminium under the pool of liquid solder. This scrapes away the aluminium oxide (that always immediately forms on the surface of aluminium) and lets the solder bond to the aluminium. But the joint was formed only by the bead of solder between the two sheets, so it was very weak. It probably would not work on thin sheets that might melt through or on wire that you cannot keep submerged while scraping.

Better to use the aluminium alloys made for joining aluminium. I have used the stuff advertised on TV (Alumaloy) and another brand I got at a tool show. Both worked great when done properly, on clean metal. The only problem was one time when it didn't look just right and a 2nd heating to "pretty it up" caused the whole blob that was added to a part to just turn liquid and dribble off onto the floor (an expensive dribble$$$).


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

The two primary difficulties with soldering aluminum are: 

1. Aluminum oxidized immediately on contact with oxygen (air). This oxide is tough stuff. Aluminum oxide is a great blasting medium for small model brass parts prior to painting to get a good clean surface and add a bit of tooth. Aluminum oxide also does not combine with other substances well, and mechanically is not bonded real well either. 

2. Aluminum also is very temperamental in regards to temperature. Aluminum has a VERY small plastic state. Aluminum goes from solid to liquid almost immediately, leaving very little room for error. 

The combination of these factors make soldering aluminum difficult at best. In a conversation with Switch Crafters, (the name escapes me at the moment) told me he was doing it with XX solder paste and solder available at Big Box store whatever. He also said it would take a bit of practice before getting it right, so plan on some scrap generation. I will look for the email at home this evening and add the information when I find it. 

Bob C.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

I did it once as a kid, made a little bracket and ran a bead of solder... 

Dad said, "You can't solder aluminum!" 

I didn't know that before I did it.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Ray, et al, 

Coped direct from the email "I use Harris "Stay-Clean" for aluminum flux. I use a lead free solder made by Oakley." 

That is the materials, now practice, practice, practice........ 

Bob C.


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); I started out using HTS-2000 and it works great as long as you only heat what you are building and let it flow to weld it together. I have now switched to durafix, 1/2 the price and the same results for a pound which lasts a long time. www.durafix.com Great for building bridges from stock that you can get at Loews or HD. 24 rods on average to a pound. It took 4 rods to build a 6 foot arch bridge. What Greg showed also works the same but to get the same amount to do a large job costs almost 10x the price. If you don't need a pound share with a friend and split the cost. Jack


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