# Regner Heisler kit



## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a few thoughts, now it's mostly finished.
Rather than deal with Google translate, I used the English instructions from www.gardenrailways.co.uk


The steam line from the reversing valve does not resemble the one in the pictures. That's fine it was prebent but a tad long.


The exhaust line was it bit short and fouled the tab for the boiler hold down screw. I moved the hold down screw to the front of the smoke box where it's easier to reach.


You might leave the trucks off till the end, I had to keep taking off to reach things.


There a few, if any, spare screws so be careful.


Other than that it's a great kit and runs really well.


I added the details to the smoke box front, it looked really bare.


Harvey C.
SA 1838


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Thanks Harvey, I didn't realize there were English instructions! I built mine just looking at the pictures. 

I am still testing it. Overall I really enjoyed the kit. That said, mine seems to run a bit better in reverse than in forward. I think this may be due to the reversing bar not moving forward enough but I have not had time to test that. 

Will post some pictures of the build in a few days. Looking forward to watching it meander around the layout


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Way to go Harvey!
I decided not to get this kit as I still have to get the Shay (after all these years) running well. The insights you have given me will be a big help.
Congrats on another loco build. Let's have some videos of it running. You too Kevin.
Best regards,
Tom


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

Now that you mention it, I had to take the lock nut off the reverser piston to get enough travel to get it to run well in both directions



Harvey C


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Pictures


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

More Pictures


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## ddrum31 (Aug 30, 2017)

Pretty cool!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

fsts2k said:


> Pictures


 Mine looks like that too - a big box of wrapped parts.


I have ordered the r/c kit. While Jason calls it "R/C Ready", there's actually a kit of parts that Graham at https://www.gardenrailways.co.uk/ [Harvey - your link is not working] has on his list. 
https://www.gardenrailways.co.uk/regner-heisler-locomotive.html
I emailed to ask what was included.

_The R/C kit comprises of a replacement reversing rod to connect to a servo (the reversing arm in the cab and the existing reversing rod are removed). 2 servos, 1 servo bracket mount for the regulator, a replacement R/C regulator arm plus the control rod and connectors. A replacement bunker cover with the cut outs for the switch and charger socket and an assembled wiring loom including the switch and charger socket._
_You will need to find the rechargeable batteries, transmitter and receiver, they are not included._

The price from the UK is about $60.


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## dslinick (Nov 7, 2018)

*Regner Heisler*

Thanks to all for postings re the Regner Heisler. My Aster BR-5 is about done and looking for another project to start!


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## FoothillRails (Aug 31, 2017)

Are the wheels pressed onto the axles or held on by a set screw? I can't imagine that it's terribly easy to get all eight wheels quartered properly.


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

The wheels are held with set screws. Quartering was a matter of trial and error and error and...


Harvey C.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

FoothillRails said:


> Are the wheels pressed onto the axles or held on by a set screw? I can't imagine that it's terribly easy to get all eight wheels quartered properly.



The wheels have angled set-screws (grub screws) and the axles are round with no flats. This diagram tells you the essence of qusrtering. Getting to the point where each side runs freely and is at 90 degrees to the other side will be trial-and-error, based on the (english) instructions I got from the UK.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

hcampbell said:


> The wheels are held with set screws. Quartering was a matter of trial and error and error and...
> 
> Harvey C.


 In my experience, you can feel when the rods bind as you turn the wheels by hand. Then adjust a tiny amount and try again. And again . . Don't tighten the gear until you are happy with the rod angles.

The quartering doesn't have to be exactly 90 degrees - 92 works just as well, as long as the rods don't bind - i.e. the wheels are at the same angle on both axles.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Today I added the wheels and quartered them. No problems - didn't even have to fiddle; it worked first time. The spokes are such that you can see from the back when a spoke is at 12 o'clock.










I've had more of a problem with clearances. Test fitting the wheels and checking the gauge resulted in the wheels being far too tight on the frame - and Graham's instructions warn you to leave room for when it all gets hot. 










I ended up sanding the paint and the edges off the back of the wheels using a sheet of 320 emery flat on the bench. I even smoothed the washers (!) and rubbed down the side of the frames, though I was trying not to make anything visible. (2 wheels done on this pic, the other is just getting started.)


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Intesting that the Heisler had quarter turn on the cranks - there doesn't appear to be any mechanical reason when its a geared loco. I guess they just followd conventional practice for quartering.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

David Fletcher said:


> Intesting that the Heisler had quarter turn on the cranks - there doesn't appear to be any mechanical reason when its a geared loco. I guess they just followd conventional practice for quartering.


 Ah, but it is not. Only geared on the front axle - the rods drive the other. Therefore 90 degrees (+/-) is needed.
What I find weird is that they like the front truck and the back truck to be "in phase" - both trucks on one side should be at 12 when the other side are both at 9. Not sure why!


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## JoelB (Jan 3, 2008)

> they like the front truck and the back truck to be "in phase"


Apparently that's how the full-sized ones came from the factory, although as you point out, there's really no mechanical reason to have the trucks synchronized that way. In fact, as Heislers were shopped during their (often long) service lives, the two (or three) trucks would sometimes get out of sync with one another. No indication that I'm aware of that this had any effect on performance.


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, even with only one axle geared per truck, the quatering is irrelevant. The cranks can be set at any angle (so long as they're consistently the same on all cranks).
The quatering comes from direct piston design, where one side is always in power stroke, when the other side is at end of stroke. 

David.


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## bille1906 (May 2, 2009)

David
Correct except that if both sides were the same, the side rods would go over center and lock up. 
The closest to 90 degrees, the more stable they are.

In trucks with multiple drive shafts, the "U" joints need to be aligned (timed) or it will create a vibration and excess wear.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

David Fletcher said:


> Pete, even with only one axle geared per truck, the quatering is irrelevant. The cranks can be set at any angle (so long as they're consistently the same on all cranks).
> The quatering comes from direct piston design, where one side is always in power stroke, when the other side is at end of stroke.
> 
> David.


Hm. I understand the direct drive issue, but in my experience any rod-driven pair of wheels will need some degree of quartering. If both rods are at the same position, then you will be relying on the rolling of the wheels to make sure they don't bind. Should the driven wheel slip, you could get a situation at 9 o'clock where the front axle is at 9+ and the other is at 9-. Won't that cause a bind?


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## David Fletcher (Jan 2, 2008)

mmmm not sure, I would have thought anything between 90 and 180 deg would work. ..like a bicycle at 180 max.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I think Pete has it right.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

I think Bill and Pete have it right.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> the quatering is irrelevant. The cranks can be set at any angle (so long as they're consistently the same on all cranks).





David Fletcher said:


> mmmm not sure, I would have thought anything between 90 and 180 deg would work. ..like a bicycle at 180 max.


Ah, maybe I misconstrued your original post. I thought you were suggesting quartering 0 degrees would work. I don't think so, nor will 180 degrees work as they will bind at the 90 degree point as Bill says. But anything around 90 degrees will be fine as long as they spin freely.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

bille1906 said:


> David
> Correct except that if both sides were the same, the side rods would go over center and lock up.
> The closest to 90 degrees, the more stable they are.
> 
> In trucks with multiple drive shafts, the "U" joints need to be aligned (timed) or it will create a vibration and excess wear.


Bill, they do have a photo with 4 circles showing that the universals should be "aligned", which you didn't define, but apparently the universals should be 90 degrees different at opposite ends of the drive shaft.


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

"In trucks with multiple drive shafts, the "U" joints need to be aligned (timed) or it will create a vibration and excess wear."
I learned that 60 years ago working on cars.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Moving right along . . The weather became more pleasant today (only 80 degrees, instead of humid and 86/feels like 97.) So I took the frame down to the car to air test using the tire pump.

As Harvey and others commented, the reversing rod and valve are a pain to set. Once you mount the cylinders in the frame, the rod is almost touching the floor and is under all the universals.

It did run fine in one direction on my first test but not the other, so I took it back to my bench, removed the trucks [good thought, Harvey,] and took off the reversing rod and lever. I added some blue tape to enable me to mark the location of the rod if it worked. It did. 

On this pic you can see 2 black lines, which mark where the threaded part of the rod starts in both forward and reverse. Now, when I re-install the reversing rod, I know where the end points should be.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

With all the boiler fittings in place, it was time for a steam test. As you can see, I took Harvey's advice and left the trucks off while I worked on it.











The 'exhaust diverter' is nowhere to be found, but once it was explained that it is only a crimped tube to stick on the exhaust, like an accucraft, I just made one up.

You can see the blank bolt on the side - there's another on the back of the manifold which is mentioned in the instructions. What isn't mentioned is that there's a 3rd one on the end of the manifold. As I've been primarily working from this side, I didn't notice until steam started pouring out of the hole. It only took a minute to find it and tighten it in position. I should have checked that I had fitted all the parts - even though this one isn't mentioned in the instructions or on the photo-diagram.











The steam test was successful, though I only tried one way, as I am waiting for the r/c kit so the reversing rod isn't installed. There's a slight leak under the Goodall filler on the water glass, but I'm sure a judicious use of the spanner will fix that.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Has anyone figured out how to get more travel in the forward / reverse lever? I have great reverse, the forward is not perfect. When I unscrew the lever mount and pull it back I get consistent forward. Wondering what I can do to provide more throw in the bar... thoughts?


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Never mind... figured it out. The jam nut (I think this was mentioned earlier) kept the clevis from screwing far enough into the thread. I removed that and threaded the clevis almost to the end. I was then able to adjust the lever position to get enough travel for forward and reverse.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

fsts2k said:


> Never mind... figured it out. The jam nut (I think this was mentioned earlier) kept the clevis from screwing far enough into the thread. I removed that and threaded the clevis almost to the end. I was then able to adjust the lever position to get enough travel for forward and reverse.


Thanks - saved me scratching my head. I just installed the reversing servo as my R/C kit arrived yesterday. With the servo installed, I had the same issue - couldn't get it to move far enough to reverse. You can see my 2 marks and the reversing rod is pulled out as far to the right as it will go with the servo in it's proper place.












Some other minor issues were found - the instructions say use the M3 shouldered bolt as a pivot in the servo arm, but the small servo has tiny holes in the arms! I took the thickest one and drilled as close to the hub as I could as the reversing rod doesn't need to move much, and it is very stiff at the moment so the more leverage the better.











And here's the final assembly, with the lock nut removed, the bolt shortened so it clears the servo body, and the whole thing tested with the R/C. You can see the back of the rod goes all the way to my mark. [Note: without the lock nut you have to screw the clevis hard on the rod and you loose any adjustability. If it isn't tight, the rod could rotate in the valve as you run and unscrew itself.]


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Nice job Pete! Looking forward to it seeing it under steam


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Out of curiosity, I asked Shawn for pics of his engine. His was one of the first factory-built locos (there's a thread and video somewhere.)












As you can see, the lock nut and clevis are all the way on the threaded rod, but the lock nut is still used. I wonder what happened between that batch and ours.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Interesting, it is a good question. I have no idea. I also wonder what the value of the lock nut is for since it is not like that clevis can turn based on the attachment to the forward/reverse lever.

Have you played with the oil valve yet? I filled the tube up with steam oil and have cracked the valve but I am not sure if I am getting enough steam oil into the cylinders yet.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

fsts2k said:


> Interesting, it is a good question. I have no idea. I also wonder what the value of the lock nut is for since it is not like that clevis can turn based on the attachment to the forward/reverse lever.


Ah, but it can turn. The reversing valve rod can turn as it moves in and out, and (in theory) unwind the clevis from the rod. I jammed mine firmly against the end, but that means I lost any adjustment. If I need to, I will adjust and then lock it with a thinner nut or locktite.



> Have you played with the oil valve yet? I filled the tube up with steam oil and have cracked the valve but I am not sure if I am getting enough steam oil into the cylinders yet.


I cracked the valve on my first test but found no water in the lubricator after the run - which was only 30 seconds anyway!
Today, with the R/C hooked up, I steamed up again to see if the reversing worked (it did - see video.) This time I opened the valve about 1 full turn. I haven't checked whether it used any oil - it is still cooling down.

Edit: (2 hours later) no, it did not use oil. The gas and water are still in the loco, so I will light up with the top off the lubricator to see if there's a blockage. I'll bet it just needs to be open 1 1/2 turns initially.









I also did some re-fitting before this test. It was almost impossible to get behind the servo mount, so I drilled out the threads in the frame and used a regular M2 screw with a bolt underneath. Much easier!










The other refit was to put back the original servo. I had used an SG90 I had lying around (because I had oversized the only remaining arm for the supplied Hitec,) but I decided the Hitec would be good if I used another M2 nut with locktite on the arm. [I found my stash of metric nuts and bolts is what brought all this about.] The original rig had the throttle reversed, but I figured if I moved the arm 180 degrees it would no longer be reversed. And that gave me a chance to fix the bolt behind the mount.










The other reason for changing the bolt was that the servo cable is supposed to run underneath, but there are no clips to stop it dangling, so I made a couple with brass wire. One is under the new nut on the throttle servo mount.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Have you played with the oil valve yet?


It only took a couple of minutes to raise steam again with the lubricator cap off, and mine poured lots of steam out, so no blockage there.
The "running" instructions tell you to back off the adjustment screw at least 2 turns while it is running in. Then keep checking and work towards a single turn.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Thanks for pointing out it can turn, you are right. I thought about that after I posted... good call on locktite

I will open up my steam oil valve a bit more and check that out. 

Looks like the RC is going well! Seems to run really smoothly

Kevin


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Pete, I adjusted my pressure valve a bit as it was leaking pretty badly at 3 bar. Found that with a little more pressure it would run better.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

fsts2k said:


> Pete, I adjusted my pressure valve a bit as it was leaking pretty badly at 3 bar. Found that with a little more pressure it would run better.


Haven't quite got there yet - and until they let me go and play trains with my garden layout pal, it won't be running anywhere.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Well this was a strange one. After screwing down the cab I had to fit a bolt behind the manifold to hold the steam line below the whistle.










It's essentially impossible - much easier to release the cab and get the bolt installed then re-attach the cab.

How did you guys do it? Did I miss an instruction?
(P.S. I already told Graham at Gardenrailways.co.uk, and I will be reporting my other findings to him. If you have any info/complaints, let me know. Latest is the headlight, which arrived with 2 bolts instead of 4. Good job I found my metric bolt stash!)


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

I ran into the same problem, I had to pull the cab off and put in the bolt, then put it all back together


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's the new cover which came with the R/C kit. (A friend who is clearing his bushes promised me some twigs to make scale logs.) 









The R/C gear is well hidden. I tidied up the long cables from the servos, and discovered the receiver would fit next to the battery and servo in the floor. The on/off switch and charging socket were pre-wired, which is nice. No idea what size the socket is, but my 5.5mm ones seem to fit. In practice, I charge the batteries out of my locos as I try to make sure I carry them between my 2 homes - I don't want to leave one for 6-7 months without a top-up.











Doesn't it look nice? Mine has the optional headlight and a Ronson fill valve. I even got the rods almost at the same position!










I put it on rollers and ran another steam test. I'll try to post a video when it gets some track time.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello Pete.
Nice installation.
I would caution against using that type of telephone socket.
The Jack will momentarily short out the battery as the plug is inserted or removed.
I would recommend using as DC coax plug which will not short out.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Looks great!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

TonyWalsham said:


> Hello Pete.
> Nice installation.
> I would caution against using that type of telephone socket.
> The Jack will momentarily short out the battery as the plug is inserted or removed.
> I would recommend using as DC coax plug which will not short out.


 Hi Tony,
Thanks for the tip. I'm not planning to use the socket anyway, but now I will definitely ignore it! I have a bunch of 5.5mm plugs and sockets somewhere if I decide to start charging onboard.

Definitely have to tidy up all those wires. And I forgot to put the steam dome on for the photo - it was safely wrapped in a bag to protect it.


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

In my boats and trains I have changed to using dry cells, it eliminates having to recharge the batteries and have them go bad due to non-use. With dry cells they can sit for months and the batteries are still good, if they are dead then just a quick change of the batteries and the engine is ready to use.


Steve


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello Steve.


Have you ever considered using the Alkaline/NiMh hybrid cells.
They will hold 85% of a charge for at least 12 months.
Quality varies but the Sanyo/Panasonic ENELOOP brand are the best.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve Ciambrone said:


> In my boats and trains I have changed to using dry cells, it eliminates having to recharge the batteries and have them go bad due to non-use. With dry cells they can sit for months and the batteries are still good, if they are dead then just a quick change of the batteries and the engine is ready to use.


Several of my locos use regular (dry) batteries. I find it easy to swap them as necessary. But there are a few that don't have bettery holders so a "pack" of NiMH work better.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> Definitely have to tidy up all those wires. And I forgot to put the steam dome on for the photo - it was safely wrapped in a bag to protect it.


I was tidying my bench yesterday and noticed the original bunker cover that came with the kit. I figured it might make a good front cover, as I already have a new top with the R/C bits. After being shortened, it fits beautifully behind the bunket extensions at the doorway. Now the wires are hidden and protected from the heat.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

I was able to run my kit this past weekend (forgot the camera) and it runs pretty well. It is now a bit better in forward than reverse so I think I need to back the clevis off a few turns. It pulls nicely and I love the speed, sloooooowwwww

I get about four laps around my layout before the butane runs out. It is a great quick to steam up engine. 

I need to make a few new small cars to pull behind it and a small caboose. My AMS stuff is a bit too substantive to look right.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine gets its first run tomorrow, hopefully.



> I need to make a few new small cars to pull behind it and a small caboose.


I have just what you need!











It even comes with a choice of roof.











I built it while in lock-down, intending it for my feldbahn - but that got an even smaller van. This one is/was an Ozark Clear Creek 10' kit. (PM me if you want it.)


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

thanks Pete! I am going to try to make this one on my own at first to test my brass workmanship. If (or probably when) I screw it up badly enough that I need to buy something I will reach out


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The final touch. Found some twigs outside the YMCA, and Scott McD sent me some from his garden cleanup.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

I like that!


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice little loco, Pete. Great job on the assembly and finish.


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

*Now with handrails*

I added handrails with Roundhouse short posts. With a bit of time and tarnish they'll be fine.
Harvey C.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I added handrails with Roundhouse short posts.


I have some posts, but my headlamp uses that hole in the smokebox!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Just a short video from my latest outing.








Still not using any steam oil. I now have the lubricator screw out 3 1/2 turns, so there had better be some water visible next time. . .


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

Great looking outing! 

I hope you figure out the steam oil.. I need to watch mine as well


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

That little dude moves out pretty fast for a geared loco!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

placitassteam said:


> That little dude moves out pretty fast for a geared loco!


Those oscillators do move fast. My Chaloner is geared 8:1 and it is slower, so I suspect this guy is 6:1 or 4:1.
Of course, the radio control is totally unnecessary unless you plan switching moves. It doesn't run away down hills or stall going up!


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

fsts2k, (and anyone else with a Regner 'easy line' loco)
Here's something really interesting on the lubricator adjuster.

I was running my Chaloner today, and afterwards I drained the lubricator - lots of water came out (good.) Before I added oil, I grabbed a light and my phone and took this pic.











As you can see, the lubricator adjuster is doing absolutely nothing. 

This is exactly how it came from the factory a few years ago. It took 4+ turns to close it, and I left it open at 2 turns. I think my Heisler is set to 3 1/2 turns, but I may just open it up more while it is running in.


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## fsts2k (Jan 13, 2009)

interesting.. thanks for sharing


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Pete;

Have you noticed whether the oscillator engine units just seem to take more cylinder oil. My Chaloner is a real "slobber puss." The water in the condenser tank seems pretty oily at the end of a run. The Dora does not seem to use as much oil, but 15 minutes is a long run for that little locomotive. Just wondering whether heavier oil consumption is partly "the nature on the beast" with the oscillator types.









Regards, David Meashey


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave Meashey said:


> Hi Pete;
> 
> Have you noticed whether the oscillator engine units just seem to take more cylinder oil. My Chaloner is a real "slobber puss." The water in the condenser tank seems pretty oily at the end of a run. The Dora does not seem to use as much oil, but 15 minutes is a long run for that little locomotive. Just wondering whether heavier oil consumption is partly "the nature on the beast" with the oscillator types.
> 
> Regards, David Meashey


Hi Dave,
Yes, the Chaloner water tank does get a lot of oil. (I started removing the drain before I start the run if I am outdoors. No reason to have to drain it indoors later!)
Maybe your Chaloner has the lubricator valve totally open like mine?

The Dora is also a dual oscillator, but mine did not seem to use all that much oil - but it did use some. 

My Mamod Brunel and Regner Otto are only single cylinder devices - I did install a catch tank in the Otto exhaust to get the oil droplets off the roof, so the lubricator is working. (I should check the adjuster valve on that!) The Brunel also uses oil.


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

My Regner is almost complete. Just need to add the decor. 

As an amateur - and no experience building a steamer - it's completely doable for anyone interested. My temper is shorter than most - and if I can go without laying a sledgehammer to it, anyone can.

Thoughts from my amateur point of view: 

1. Mount trucks later than instructions indicate (UK or German). Look thru spokes for wheel alignment.
2. Air test, air test, air test - no further steps until reverser and running gear rolling as desired.
3. Have proper tools. 
4. Have a good, level test track. (sometimes new folk are w/out any track) 
5. Check, and recheck all running gear screws (even the ones w/Loctite) early in the process.
6. Be sure to release Goodall valve when filling w/water when you lack a Goodall fill bottle. 
7. Ronson valve is tricky - keep working with it, lube, etc. Filling w/butane is hit/miss right now but will get sorted. 
8. Walk away when the cloud of frustration taints the air of challenge. 

As for RC - yes, I have the kit ordered but may not install right away. I have the RCS Tx2 on my POS Ruby that I could steal...but really does not need it unless you have complex switching options.

Buy one. 

Best, 
Ruger


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Ruger, are you using the stock Regner non self venting type of gas filler valve or a proper Ronson self venting? The Regner non self venting are a pain in the tail till you figure them out. Most guy I know swap them out for a more common Ronson self venting. My friend had me put them in his Lumberjack and 2 truck vertical boiler Shay. Mike


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

Hey Mike- no, it’s the Ronson. Can’t tell when/if it’s filling. Interestingly, I have the same problem with Ruby. I only have ‘Ronson’ brand butane bottles. Eventually it’ll fill. Lighting can be an event- whole front of train goes up in flame at initial light...I keep playing with gas valve to settle it down...spits a little too (the gas). The Ronson depresses as expected so not sure. 





Mike Toney said:


> Ruger, are you using the stock Regner non self venting type of gas filler valve or a proper Ronson self venting? The Regner non self venting are a pain in the tail till you figure them out. Most guy I know swap them out for a more common Ronson self venting. My friend had me put them in his Lumberjack and 2 truck vertical boiler Shay. Mike


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

It is cool as **** tho...


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

When you first light up with a full tank, open the valve for a few seconds till it quits making a spitting sound, then close it. Blow the gas fumes away or wait a min or so, then reopen the valve just a tiny bit, wait a second then light up. The pyro effects will be much less. Yes, practice makes perfect, so enjoy lots of steaming! I find the tanks when good and hot do not like to refuel for back to back running. A cool down period is in order after the run is over to allow the fuel tank to cool so it will take gas again. Mike


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## Steve Ciambrone (Feb 25, 2014)

The Ronson butane fuel is expensive, all of use use either the Butane cans from Asian markets or the Butane/Propane cans from walmart or sporting goods stores. Both require an adapter and are different. The Train Dept. and other suppliers have the required adapters. 

Steve


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> 3. Have proper tools.
> 4. Have a good, level test track. (sometimes new folk are w/out any track)


Just a minor correction - there are tools in the kit that deal with the M2 bolts. However, most steamers develop a 'kit' of useful tools, like long-nose pliers, and I find the small "ignition wrenches" which were sold by Sears to be invaluable. 
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Combination-Ignition-Wrench-Set/dp/B003BL04BK



> Ronson butane fuel is expensive, all of us use either the Butane cans from Asian markets


(minor typo corrected.) For some reason, like you I find the Regner gas fillers with the ronson valves to be more finicky than ones on Accucraft gas tanks. It's a matter of practice. I find that sometimes you don't have to press the valve completely down, on other locos it is best to press firmly. I have a filler with a clear tube which helps - I can see gas bubbles flowing!

Adaptors and gas has been endlessly discussed:

https://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/27093-butane-adapter-2.html
https://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/72794-yet-another-butane-bottle-adapter-thread.html


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

Yes, Mike - I'm on my 5th run and developing the 'finesse' so to speak  

Cool down? LOL it's about 105 outside when I run....nothing cools down expect me when I have to hop into the pool....

...however, I see where you're going with this and I agree: Needed is a 2nd loco with that gorgeous shiny Walschaerts drive candy. 




Mike Toney said:


> When you first light up with a full tank, open the valve for a few seconds till it quits making a spitting sound, then close it. Blow the gas fumes away or wait a min or so, then reopen the valve just a tiny bit, wait a second then light up. The pyro effects will be much less. Yes, practice makes perfect, so enjoy lots of steaming! I find the tanks when good and hot do not like to refuel for back to back running. A cool down period is in order after the run is over to allow the fuel tank to cool so it will take gas again. Mike


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

I hear ya, Steve. I bought a bundle of Ronson on Amazon and a fair price. I do have the big cheap bottles but the fuel valve will not allow the can to get close enough...and I lack an extension. My car is a gas hog so this little train shouldn't break me....I think? ha ha



Steve Ciambrone said:


> The Ronson butane fuel is expensive, all of use use either the Butane cans from Asian markets or the Butane/Propane cans from walmart or sporting goods stores. Both require an adapter and are different. The Train Dept. and other suppliers have the required adapters.
> 
> Steve


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## Ruger B (Jun 15, 2020)

It's kinda funny, Pete. I've had a Craftsman ignition set for 30 years - maybe used them twice...if that! Well they're kinda handy now. I also suggest long nut drivers - Amazon $15. 

For anyone looking to get into this - the supplied tools are great but supplementation will ease the process. The only thing that annoyed me was teflon tape - hate it on small items - I'd probably try to find a liquid alternative if there is such a thing.. 

I did get the Ruby ronson valve working - heck, I'm tempted to pull out the gut and stick it in the Heisler! 

EDIT TO HIGHLIGHT THE BELOW IN RED FOR OTHER LURKING AMATUERS OR STEAM CONTEMPLATORS: 




Pete Thornton said:


> Just a minor correction - there are tools in the kit that deal with the M2 bolts. However, most steamers develop a 'kit' of useful tools, like long-nose pliers, and I find the small "ignition wrenches" which were sold by Sears to be invaluable.
> https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Combination-Ignition-Wrench-Set/dp/B003BL04BK
> 
> (minor typo corrected.) For some reason, like you I find the Regner gas fillers with the ronson valves to be more finicky than ones on Accucraft gas tanks. *It's a matter of practice. I find that sometimes you don't have to press the valve completely down, on other locos it is best to press firmly.* I have a filler with a clear tube which helps - I can see gas bubbles flowing!
> ...


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