# coal tenders for LGB



## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Hi guys. Maybe I should explain where I'm coming from first. 
I have two LGB starter trains, One for each boy. I bought the trains separately as the boys are 6 years apart. I have the little black and red 2010 Locomotive and a few freight cars and the little Boulder Lake George train with passenger cars. We have always set it up at Christmas under the tree and all around the living room as I bought more track. The boys are grown now and the oldest has three children (two girls and a boy 5 and under). My younger boy is getting one in July, we don't know sex yet. When I offered, a while back, neither would take a train home and get it out of my limited closet space. So I have decided to keep them here and set them up at Christmas for the little ones. I'll say here that both trains are still it really good shape even though they were "played with" by boys, for a number of years. A testment to both my boys respect for things and LGB durability. My plan, at this time, is to build several more buildings to go with my station that I build in the 80's from scratch, maybe a bit of a mining mountain so I can have a pretty cool set up for the kids at Christmas and for the Christmas party we have yearly for adults and kids alike.
Later, and my wife seems especially keen on this idea, she usually shows no interest in anything that interests me, I may set up a garden railway in the back yard. 
Anyway, here is my subject. I want to have coal tenders for both trains. I just like the look. Eventually the kids will want them at home, I think, and I'll have to buy my own toy train. 
All I can find is tenders with sound and a motor and they are expensive, too much to buy two of them, at this time. So I'm wondering if there is a cheaper version of a tender for LGB? Or something that will fit scale from another vender. OR, maybe I could fabricate one myself using styrene. Has there been a thread of someone doing something like that I could look up. Maybe an artical in Garden railways? I have tools and I'm a pretty good fabricator. I build a Lotus 7 sports car form scratch, full scale, of course. I'm just looking for starting place. Maybe even some good pictures of coal tenders that would look right with my small engnes.
thanks, Wayne


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> maybe I could fabricate one


Wayne,
Sounds like a fun project. I'm sure the grandkids will enjoy it - especially when you get into the garden!

I would try to make something like the powered coal tenders that you have seen. There are lots of pictures (I googled lgb lake george and boulder.) Start with a freight car that has similar trucks and cut it down in length. Make a box from Evergreen styrene, add a top, make another box and pile some real or fake coal on top.

You can get details like handrails, etc., from Ozark Miniatures and other suppliers.

[Still got the Lotus 7? I sold my Elan a few years ago.]


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## morrjr (Jan 14, 2015)

Do a search for "G scale tender" on ebay. There are several that are $30.00 or less. Most are American style, but you may be able to kit bash one to look more like a European tender to go with your locomotives.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks Pete, yes I still have the Lotus. Texaslocost.com will pull up the pics of the whole build. Not as much fun here in Houston as it was in Colorado, no mountain roads. And the streets here are really bad, it's a city disgrace right now.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Welcome!

I think your first question should be whether you want powered tenders? LGB's tender is powered and has additional electrical contacts with the track. It is like adding a second locomotive, but also draws more power - too much for starter set power supplies to keep up. If you're still using starter set power supplies, plan on having to upgrade those too.

If you don't need them powered, and are okay with some mismatch in appearance and quality (and the possibility of having to retrofit couplers), you might look at Peco's range; their models are usually less expensive than LGB's.

I'd also suggest starting with e-Bay, or some of the dealers who do a lot of used sales.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

If you're wanting a European profile tender, I'd keep an eye out on eBay. I've see the tender shells for sale on eBay periodically. It wouldn't be hard to add a polystyrene base and set of trucks to a shell. As an alternative, if you're looking for U.S.-style tenders, those New Bright tenders could be easily improved with a paint job, a bit of detailing, and a set of metal wheels.

I have one of the European profile powered tenders and they do add quite a bit to the pulling power/track pickup equation, if you're willing to spend the money and buy a bigger power supply.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice car Wayne. Go cart on steroids.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB did have a non powered toytrain tender with a button on top for a 20 second play of sound. these are small and short. they came in black and later on in green.


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## Bill C. (Jan 2, 2008)

I have one of those Lehmann ToyTrain tenders that I usually operate with my Porter. So I hooked it up to my Stainz and actually it looks pretty good.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

I saw the tender shells on Ebay and that may be an easy way to go to build one. I just realized, looking at your picture, that the back of that engine doesn't open. something I simply hadn't noticed. Only my other one has the open back for a tender. Mummm, interesting.But the tender does look good behind it anyway.
Wayne


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## trainstrainstrains (Nov 9, 2014)

I see G scale tenders in eBay today start at $ 4.99 , several sell for $8!


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Don't forget the little Hartland Mini Series. Not quite a tender and a bit narrow but the flatcars could make a good base to stick a small cheap tender shell on.
The Lehman ToyTrain tenders don't seem to be around that much.










Andrew


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)




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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

I used the LGB shell above on a hartland gondola body, sides lifted. The shell fits perfectly. While a bit 'euro', it is consistent with the LGB look, and the whole deal, new hartland and ebay shell, cost $20.00, sans paint and details. I added the bunker extensions using styrene to give a it a slightly more US look, as well as the marker lanterns. 

My real impetus to this thing was something that could withstand being left in the garden, as well as not investing a bunch in $$ or my time.

In looking at this photo, I am less than pleased with the overall paint and tender rusting, but, that's what happens when you build, paint, detail etc in an hour. The tender, admittedly, is a 'bit' too large for a porter, imho. But, as I stated, only about an hour of effort and about another $20.00 in paint, details, etc. I used rail clippers on twigs for the wood load to split, and to give the logs squared ends. As I recall, I used Tamaya german grey, cos I had it in the paint box and had used it as well on the porter-not a great choice in hindsight, a little too much blue. I would recommend Tamaya. Its one of the few can paints that gives as perfect and fine a coat as using my spray gun. 

FWIW, that is a stock LGB german built porter, with decoder, and I added the upright panels on the cab. 

I would mention, that the motorized tenders match the stainz and 2015/2017, but, in my experience do not match the speed of the porters, which have a different gear drive ratio. While i can usually find a certain speed at which two slightly different gear drives 'sync' I would not recommend this, as unless one was meticulous in running, eventually the mis match 'push-pull' between them will cause premature gear wear and failure.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

hey, cool. I picked up that tender body from e bay a couple days ago and found a floor and a base piece I think I can make work for the trucks. I found the coal load too but might just use wood instead. Thanks for the picture I can see that it will work now. I still need a couple of couplers and that swivel piece that goes with them now. any ides where I could find those?
Wayne


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Swivel piece? You just need the loop because it will always be attached to a loco that has a hook, in fact it could just be a bent piece of wire to make a loop attached to the body because it doesn't need to function as a regular coupler.

I have something to slice up with a dremel disc, add some styrene and fuel load and fit to a larger deck over a Hartland flatcar...
It took some hunting at the supermarket to find a tin with sharp curves. I can get two from one tin.
I'll beef up the inside with styrene. It could be wrapped with thin styrene sheet for rivet detail.
I like the lipped edge and curved corners. Now what to do with the oil?  Anyone for stir-fry?










Andrew


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Wow, the tin is very clever. I got a tender body off ebay and a floor for it and I was thinking I could get a lower frame for a flat car, actually I bought one from ebay this morning. What I still need is the swivel unit that the trucks mount to. look under any car to see what I mean. Both the wheels and the connectors mount to those pieces. I want to do exactly what is pictured above our posts and have it set up with just the single trucks like my small European cars.
Wayne


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

How about using a Hartland gondola. I have used a black one that actually has COAL written on the side behind my LGB Stainz. I made a coal load for mine. Hartland stuff is economical.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Wayne, do you mean the part on 2 axle LGB cars that the axles attach to so they swivel?
You can get them in pairs on eBay but be aware there are a few different types. Some have a longer coupler mount and some have a different sized pivot hole. Even those from the different ToyTrain style design can have different center holes and each end has a different coupler length. 

Andrew


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

yes, that's the only thing I need at this point. I'll keep looking for some and try to figure out what size I need.
Thanks, I hadn't noticed them on ebay but I wasn't looking specifically for them yet.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

well the hartland has all you need, hooks up just fine with its protruding hook and loops

and, that was one reason I did my half A$$ job, because I didn't need to buy a lot of add-ons, which rapidly add up.

ideally, it seems, the tender should only be about 2/3 in length, and a bit less tall as well. but, there is value to me in not cutting and having a very robust shell for handling, weather, etc.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

elewayne said:


> hey, cool. I picked up that tender body from e bay a couple days ago and found a floor and a base piece I think I can make work for the trucks. I found the coal load too but might just use wood instead. Thanks for the picture I can see that it will work now. I still need a couple of couplers and that swivel piece that goes with them now. any ides where I could find those?
> Wayne


if you buy a hartland flat kit, youll be all set regarding couplers, as they are included and the mount works with the shell.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks for the info. I picked up a powered tender with sound for the other train, and I'm making a tender for the freight train without all that. IT's been fun looking for parts and all on ebay but I should have just bought another one with sound for what it's cost me. Lesson learned, no biggie. Anyway, I have two engines, a 2010 for the freight train and a 2017 for the passenger train. The 2010 had a hook coupler on the back of it and the 2017 had a loop coupler on it. The powered tender I have to use on that train is set up backwards to the train. 
I'd like to put a hook on back of the 2017 engine instead of the loop. The mounting point is completely different though. Can I get a hook that mounts on the 2017 engine? (sorry, it's hard to make all that clear). I think the tender is the same way and I can't change the couplers ene for end. I really need to change the engine to a hook coupler.
Wayne


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Check with Train-Li for the tender parts which should have the following for the 2017.
1 platform that goes in the rear of the engine to prevent the fireman from falling under the tender. This is in the tender kit which has the platform and special front loop coupler that is only used on powered tenders.

1 mounting bracket for the hook 20150-M041
1 hook 20150-M039

1 screw for the hook
1 washer for the hook.
1 power cable Make sure they know what connectors are on theengine and tender, dual round sockets, or rectangular socket, or 1 of each.

Older engines had a different mounting bracket for the hook than the newer engines which take a standard hook and loop coupler.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks, I noticed in looking at some pictures on line that there seems to be several parts that I didn't get with the tender. I've seen a down elbow hook on the back of some engines in pictures. 
So who is train Li? How do I check there for the parts?
Wayne


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Go to FORUMS at the top of the page in the menu bar and click. Then scroll down to the product reviews forum. Train-Li has a small add there, click on it. That should give you all the information that you need to contact them.

They have been an excellent source of LGB parts for me.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Train-Li phone is 508-529-9166.
I am usually there on Tuesdays for tech support.
We have a booth at the ECLSTS and bring LGB common parts, Train-li track, switches, LGB and Train-li engines/rolling stock.
We also set up a DCC test track.


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

I called and ordered the parts I needed today. Thanks for the lead, everyone.
WAyne


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## elewayne (Dec 16, 2014)

Well, I built myself a coal tender, using parts obtained from ebay. Not the cheap method I have hoped for but fun still. I modified a box car chassis to mount 2 axles underneath tender instead of 4, to go with all my two axle cars. I like the finished tender but it is totally out of scale with the small engine I have. Crap. So the other day I found an engine on Ebay that really goes with that coal tender so I bought it, adding to the growing expense of getting two tenders. (which was where I started) Oh well, lessons learned, I suppose. What the heck, I'm having fun while my shoulder surgery heals and I can't work on full scale projects which I have in abundance. I currently have a "scale" range of motion in my left arm.
so this engine has a cracked part I can glue back together easily enough so what is the best glue for a LGP body part?
I'll try to upload a couple pictures soon.
Wayne


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Glue is a bit tricky on LGB plastic. The UHU stuff that comes in a small tube with LGB and Pola kits works the best apparently. Some have success with Plastisrtuct, some not. They other day I glued a broken tail light from it's mount on an LGB tender with ZAP-A-GAP Medium CA. Not much happened at first but after securing with blu-tac and a half hour wait it stuck. Seems OK so far. 

Andrew


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