# Clamps on LGB 90 crossing



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I have a quick question on clamping and the LGB 90 degree crossing. The rest of my track is Aristo and Train-Li switches. In the places where I will be using clamps, I got the SJ and have removed the factory brass joiners. However, I was planning on using clamps on this 90 but noticed the factory joiner is not held on by screws. It appears there is a press dimple on the bottom. I'm not sure if removing those joiners is an issue or not. Should I consider just getting 4 over the joiner clamps? Experience and input please.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

All LGB track has the joiners attached like this. If you look closer you wil also see at tab on the joiner that fits into a groove on the ties. I have heard of guys being able to save the joiner when they remove them but I haven't had success with that and usually twist them off with pliers just don't break the plastic tabs that hold the track to the tie. 
The joiner also keeps the track from sliding in the tie strip. LGB doesn't have the little screws underneath the track. 
Are you in or outside? I have used track joiners with conductive grease applied outside for 6 years now and have had few problems for my track powered trains. I use clamps where I anticipate problems like inside tunnels and near switches so I can remove them without disturbing too much track ballast. 
Since you approach tracks have the clamps why not save some dough and try leaving the rail joiners on.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with Todd. Use care if you remove a joiner from certain types of LGB track: switches, crossings and power feeders, such as 1015T and U. With those track types you can do damage to some of the electrical connections further up the track. It is easy to remove the joiner from standard LGB track. Place a heavy duty flat head screw driver at the end of the rail just above the joiner and gently tap the handle with a hammer. The rail will slide back and release the joiner. You can get over the rail joiner clamps from Split-Jaw. I have used regular Split-Jaw clamps over joiners on occasion. Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd break the tab off on the joiner underneath, the take off the old LGB joiner and use clamps. 

The over the joiner clamps add little to conductivity, since you want rail to rail conductivity. the original joiners themselves can allow dirt and muck to work in as they expand and contract with heat, since they are just "springy". 

Some people like Todd have great results with standard joiners and grease, some people have terrible times with joiners. I'm a better safe than sorry guy. 

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There is also the Denver solution developed by Byron Fenton in the 1980s. Drill two holes at about 45 degrees through the joiner and the rail. One on each side of the gap and then use a #4 self tapping stainless steel screw. This is a secure connection with excellent electrical conductivity, especially if you dip the screw in a conducting paste. I you look carefully at the top join, you can see the tips of the screws sticking out under the joiner.











I still have some of my track held together this way. These connections have lasted for over 25 years.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

To remove the LGB joiner I drill out the dimple on the bottom, then I pull it straight off with strong pliers. 
It is the dimple that makes removing this joiner a problem, the brass tab will just bend when pulling the joiner off if the dimple is removed. 
Greg, add it to your tips if it has not there, and would someone reading this confirm it does work this way.


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm definitely in the remove and put on clamps camp with Greg, though one of the guys in our club uses the screw-through-the-joiner method that Chuck shows with excellent results as well. 

Keith


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