# Biblegrove R/R update...



## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I hope I post the pictures correctly or I'll have to do it all over....








Here are some pictures of my front yard project. I installed the pool this Spring and started on the retaining wall. I pretty much finished the wall with another 50 blocks this week. The hill raises about 6' from the top of the wall to the sidewalk along the side of the house, and are about 30' apart (20% grade?)








I have to use 8' curves and need grade to be less than 3% unless I use this section as downgrade only. Anyways, any ideas or comments will be appreciated, greatly!












































looking off the Ridge of the Estate









Good 6-8' waterfall drop next to stairs going along the Concrete "wing" Wall









all done with Mocrosoft paint-the best I can do...

Switchbacks were suggested too...Is it even possible to climb this high as I have mapped out. 
If I have to go up 72 inches at 3% grade, how much track length do I need?


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## Dougald (Jan 2, 2008)

To answer the last question only because it is easy ... to rise 6 feet in climb at 3% you would need 200 lineal feet of track. I will leave the track planning suggestions to others as no matter how you slice the salami, this is a serious hill.

Regards ... Doug


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd add additional blocks and raise up and fill in with dirt and get it more level. I did almost the same thing you are looking at. I had to build a retaining wall 5 1/2 ft tall and then filled in with 25 yards of dirt but at least I do not have a grade per say. Later RJD


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## nkelsey (Jan 4, 2008)

Easy way to get a rough estimate of grade, use a 8 foot 2x4 or 2x6, (96") and each inch you raise one end is 1% of grade. Looking at that yard, you are probably looking at terracing and additional fill in. Also, if that retaining concrete wall is an integral part of the house foundation system, I would be leery of having a 6 ft waterfall next to it. If the ponds/stream leaked and washed away under the wall..... well we just had a house slide down a hill in Portland, Or because of leaking sprinkler piping. That is certainly a challenge.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow, I think the best way to "seal" the river and waterfall is to line with that heavy duty rubber lining? I plan on getting a straight board with long level taped to it as I make grade. I am wondering if the PVC pipe and stakes may be the way to go for me. Yes, I plan on filling the lower part to be level with the top of the blocks.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

If you are going to use a straight board to make grades. Make sure that it is strong enought not to sag in the middle. I did that and made a big problem.

What I did find in the trash was 6 FT contractors level made of metal that had all the bubbles broken out.

I just set it up and put a torpedo level on tops. It works well


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Just find you a straight 2 x 4 turn on edge and make sure not warped in that direction then your good to go with the level. Later RJD


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

Slice into the hilland/or make lotsa trestles Biblegrove, then you can reduce the grade. Either that or you can build up the roadbed, maybe with another wall. Good luck neighbor, I'm starting mine this year too hehe ^^

-Will


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 12/04/2008 7:45 PM
Wow, I think the best way to "seal" the river and waterfall is to line with that heavy duty rubber lining?


Be careful. Even a heavy rubber lining can get oles, cracks, etc. Of course, there's also the problem of sealing the joints, unless you can find a single piee large enough to cover the entire area in one go. Keeping the water completely contained can probably be done, but are you really willing to bet your house on it?

Just a friendly warning against underestimating the invasive and destructive power of water.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

You should check out Ray Dunakin's In-Ko-Pah RR layout, his winds up what most of us would consider a virtual cliff!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Yeah, this is a sweet slope compared to mine! My space is also a lot more limited. I'm crammed into a pretty narrow strip. What are the dimensions of your yard? The bottom of your trackplan doesn't show, so it's hard to tell exactly how long a run you could get. 

If it was me, I'd probably run the river downslope about halfway, then over to the middle of the block wall and put your waterfall in there. Not as spectacular a drop but you'd get a lot more scenic use out of the river and wouldn't risk your concrete retaining wall.


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## astrayelmgod (Jan 2, 2008)

It's hard to tell from the sketch, but I don't see what value the river or the waterfall adds to the railroad. There aren't any bridges, log dumps, harbor scenes or anything else even vaguely train related. 

Also, those mortarless blocks aren't rated for retaining walls that are more than about 3-4 feet tall. If you do have a leak that manages not to ruin your house, it will probably push the bottom of the hill out and collapse the hill.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Waterfalls are COOL!









The wall is less than 4 feet high

Has anyone in here experianced a leaking river/waterfall? Can't it be done? 

I could use 1 continuous piece of that heavy rubbr liner the pros use. I appreciate the concern and info on water damage, it never crossed my mind but some good news here would be helpful...


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Water seepage is always an issue and concern. But looking at the slope of your yard I think you'll be OK, Everything slopes away from your foundation fairly quickly. I'd say as long as you keep the "river" at least 20 feet away from the house you shold be fine. It may be worth a call to the local building inspector for piece of mind.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

20 FEET! It's only 30 feet to the pool. 
Building inspector in Southern Illinois?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 12/10/2008 3:00 PM
Building inspector in Southern Illinois?


Yeah.. you can usually find him at the gun club or jug fishin' on Crab Orchard,,,


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I did not read all these. 
but with a pool is there kids? 

does public kids go down the walks? 

I'd keep 10'dia min reguardless of changes. 

can you run the trains inside the house someplace? 

just thinking out loud


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

BiblegroveRR 

Here is a rough sketch of my suggestion. I think that you should consider going from a loop above the pool to the area next to the pool. Putting 100 feet of track between the two would give you a 3 percent grade. It would take 200 feet of track to go up the hill at a 3 percent grade to rise 6 feet. Doable, but more trouble. Try laying out some garden hose or some electrical conduit to get some ideas. 










Terl


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Concerning the pool and the wall... May I recommend one of the following:

1. Keep the wall at least 15 ft away from the pool, or at least far enough that a child under the influence of testosterone won't try to leap the chasm.

2. Build a deck between the wall and the pool, such that there is no chasm to leap.

3. Install a permanent video camera to record the kids (and occasional adult) jumping from the wall into the pool, just to catch the perfect video for America's Funniest Home Videos of the one that slips as they start their leap and slams into and breaks the pool sidewall, dumping the whole water content into the base of the wall, causing it to collapse which creates a landslide which brings the $8,000 live steam locomotive and $2,000 worth of rolling stock down into the muck of dirt and swimming pool water. You might recoup the cost of the accident, (IF your video is not up against a naked child making an obscene noise which scares the dog into biting grandpa's groin). Oh wait, there is also the cost to repair the pool and landscaping... well maybe you'll go on to win the $100,000 at the end of the season.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

forget about it, I'm moving to the housing projects after getting laid off last week anyways. 

Thanks for your support!


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

No BG! =( Obama, please help us...


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

You wern't working for the Governor were you?


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Biblegrove RR 

Bummer man. Best of luck to you. 

Terl


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well wish you luck on finding a new job. I'd keep all the ideas suggested here for when your back in the swing of things. Later RJD


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks guys, I'm a salesman and everything has a price so something should come up. I have not been unemployed in 20 years! Now I have plenty of time on my hands and spend it raising my 4 year old and dreamin about trains (and looking for a job of course). There are lots of things to do to the yard and I already have the trains. Rock is cheap and I have a truck and trailer. I learned I can re-bend what track I have to wider curves which will help. Thanks to Ray Dunakin I have the blocks and plan to put in some steps! Just a few problems... 
Low funds 
Gotta find a neighbor with a bucket on his tractor! 
It's FREEZING outside! 

Maybe I can get some work with a Landscaper this Spring to get some experiance. I wish I would have invested in a dump truck and could lease a tractor to start my own dirt/rock/landscape business!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

It's warmed up a little today so with shovel in hand I started digging... Although it's for putting in steps it does have to do with the layout. I also unloaded the blocks for the steps and hope I have enough (I knew I saved them things for a reason) It is too muddy to continue, boy I need an end loader right now!









Steps will go along this wall, maybe I should place a drainage pipe under it?








top view, look for rough drawn steps in white chalk..12" but will be more like 8 1/2"


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I am sure you guys are getting bored with me posting but.... Your comments and remarks keep me motivated. Not to mention taking shots of stages in progress. I did manage to install the 1st row of steps. They will be capped off with flat stones and I'm wondering if anyone has cut masonry with their Skill saw using a $4 masonry blade I saw at Menards the other day?


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## 3lphill (Feb 22, 2008)

Good Afternoon,


I have cut retaining wall blocks with my worm drive and a dry diamond blade. I think I payed more like $30.00 for it but it has lasted through residing a house in concrete plank (you have got to love LP siding, good for mushrooms) and my brother in laws wall. Use a good respirator, not a dust mask, tight sealing goggles and ear plugs. It is messy.


Phillip


PS works on carbon fiber composites, very nasty.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

BG.. Three things.. 

1) Never ever worry about about anyone here getting bored with your post. I've found this community on here to be rife with wonderful supportive folks. If one of us is in need of moral support, they'll find it here in plentitude. You're among friends here, if you need us, we'll be there for you. 

2) Something will turn up for you. My wife lost her position of 15 years in August. She was home for a few weeks, but now she has a new job and is doing additional work part time for an old associate from her previous position. Have faith, stay positive and enjoy what life gives you. You didn't lose a job, you gained endless possibilities for what to do next. 

3) Keep the great pictures coming. You're really going to town there. It's looking great and I like the ideas you have. I fully expect to be able to drop over in 4.5 years when I get back in the neighborhood and run my trains untill I get mine up and running at my place.. 


Peace & love Bro...


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Dave! 

I need to keep from having one giant step at the top, I suppose the depth of the steps will determine this mostly.








Blocks are *7 1/2" tall*...

88" divided by 7.5 =
It would take 12 steps high _(not counting the bottom one, I measured up from there)_ 
117 / 12 = *9.75" deep* steps?

So, If I offset the 2nd row 3" over the 1st (need to be over it anyway) I will have even 7 1/2" X 10" steps.
And if my calculations are correct the last step up to the sidewalk will be about 3" (nice and safe) 

Does this make sense? It's been a long day and I need an engineer's help.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Heat wave in the 50's today so I was able to accomplish something on the steps.








I am about half way there.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Those steps are looking great, and probably much more skillfully laid than mine! BTW, that concrete wall is much more substantial than it looked from the other angle, in your first photo. No worries there. 

Sorry to hear about the job loss. Sad to say, there's a lot of that going around these days. Good luck and best wishes!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Freaky warm temp here today, must be in the 60's! Very Windy though...
I was able to install more steps as part of landscaping the front yard for trains this Spring.








All but one step left and I am wondering if I should place a drainage tube under the top step and then turn 
90 degrees and run along the outside of the steps all the way down. I have the tube, it's perfect length and I
have no other plans for it.....?








As you can see here, it looks like water drains from under the sidewalk here. I definately don't want it to build up 
and was away my hard work! I can get some gravel to fill around the pipe to help the drainage too. I am also 
thinking of maybe cutting the top piece that runs cross ways in half so the water would enter easier?

Any engineers out there to give suggestions, or any of you guys that may have some ideas please?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

WHOA !!!! Nice job there big fella. Making great progress .....


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice progress! Looking real good so far. It's hard to say for sure without actually being there and seeing what it's like when it rains, but my guess is you could be just fine without putting that tube under the top step. It would take a heck of a lot of runoff to wash away your steps, much more than it appears possible from your photo. Most likely the runoff would just soak in -- and/or seep through the steps since the blocks are quite porous. 

Just my two cents...


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

There should be sufficient holes in the drain tube so I would think cutting the tube to be unnecessary. 

I would be more concerned about the drainage of your retaining wall. You might check with a local landscaping contractor or experienced gardener about your wall and satisfy yourself that it has good drainage and is stable for the height and configuration as built. 

I have seen in my local dry climate even low walls of only 2 feet high start to topple over without proper anchoring back into the slope. However we have an expansive clay here so my situation could be very different from yours, which is why I recomend you talk to someone local.

When you put in your track, pay attention to drainage. Don't let the track dam up the slope. Make drainage pipes and bridges in natuaral gulleys. Espeacially where does the water go when it drains off your roof? Your lucky to get work done this late in the winter. Keep us posted.

Terl


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I think the standard for foundations around here is 8"-10" thick concrete and mine are 12"! There are also little drain holes in the bottoms of the wings too.

BTW I went to the quarry today and got some rock. I wanted the "rip raff" loaded in the pick up truck so it would be easier to unload. They were hesitant to do so but did it anyway, he dropped it in from a HUGE endloader as easy as he could but still damaged my bed I'm sure.... old truck, no big deal. I had the CA5= 1 1/2" gravel loaded on the trailer. I unloaded 2.4 ton of this stuff on the renters driveway yesterday by hand! Anyway, I am using the gravel as fill since I have no bucket to move my dirt/mud around. Sure won't hurt with water drainage either eh? The boulders will be mortared together making small retaining walls etc. 
Today's load of Limestone was 3.6 ton and cost only $23~!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice deal on the limestone. If I'd had to pay for rocks here it would have cost me thousands, for the amount of rock I needed.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks for your continued support Ray!
For those interested, here is what I got accomplished today. I am sorry that I seem to post EVERY single step I accomplish but it's in hopes of someone with more experiance may chime in and help me out.









I got most of the 6 ton of limestone unloaded...OH MY BACK!









Most of the gravel went for fill where the village of Biblegrove itself will be established.
The wife reminded me to place enough dirt on top to support plantings...I hope 6"+ will do here.









Here are some of the Larger stones that will have to be rolled off the tailgate.
Question: Shouldn't I use these for the base of me mountain? 









Here you can see the steps are all but finished, only need to top them with stepping stones and face them.
much THANKS to Ray Dunakin and the In-Ko-Pah Railroad!
I did install the 4" drainage tube under the top step and along the side of the steps too, just in case.
Remember the waterfall will be right between the red blocks and steps








P.S. the steps don't "look" level in this shot but they are. I have them topped with Lime and dirt so they will be good and packed before placing the step stones on top. You can see them at the bottom of the picture.









Here you can get overall view of steps. The Village of Biblegrove will have an 8'-10' circle where it will start to make the climb up the Mountain.
I am more thrilled to get the township's base filled than the steps, I'm that much more closer to laying track!

I am now entertaining the thought of picking up some PVC piping so I can start laying grade before building mountains/retaining walls/cribbing/trestles etc.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Lookin' GREAT ! 

I assume that you'll have a small basin (pond) below the falls? And some method to pump the water back to the top?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Dave....
OOOPS, I originally wanted to run the return line from the pond along the steps where I just buried the drainage pipe.
OH well. I'll just run it up along side the river I guess.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice work, it's really coming along! 

Try to use a variety of rocks sizes and shapes as you build your mountains, from top to bottom. If you use all the large rocks at the base of the mountains, and put only smaller ones on top, it won't look as natural. Study full-size mountains. In many cases the largest sections of solid rock on a real mountain, are at the top. Smaller rocks tend to end up lower, because they have broken off the main mass. Of course, if you put only small ones at the bottom and only large ones at the top, that won't look natural either.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks, I am concerned about the Mountain/cliff ending up looking like a bunch of rocks mortared together. 

Today I picked up 200' of PVC, some stakes and $30 worth of Portland cement and concrete for only $2! Busted bags at Lowe's...


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 01/04/2009 6:52 PM
Thanks, I am concerned about the Mountain/cliff ending up looking like a bunch of rocks mortared together. 


Just a suggestion but, don't mortar them... build a loose base of rocks, then infill with soil, add another layer of rocks and more soil.. keep adding untill you get to your desired height. THEN.. plant mosses and small shrubs in the exposed soil areas between the rocks.. half a growing season later you'll be amazed at the realism..


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Dave,

Does anyone in here have some pictures tp share?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You need to go to Ray's site to see his pictures.

I have a few on my site at: *[url]http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/misc-train-stuff-mainmenu-135/others-layouts-mainmenu-223/ray-dunakin*[/url]

Here's one to whet your appetite:











Regards, Greg


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks, 

Ray has been most helpful and I am using most all of his suggestions too.








Here is a 10' loop of PVC to get a rough idea of the 1st installation. 
I multiplied 10' x 3.1416 (pie) to get circumfrance.


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Biblegroverr 

Looking back at your original plan, it might be convenient for you to start the track up the hill at a different place on the lower loop so that it becomes a return loop. Also how about bringing the river meanduring down the hill in the middle of the hill so that the rail road has to bridge is several times on it's way up the hill. It would add more railroad interest. 

Terl


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Do not discount using cement to make mountains even if you incorporate you rocks within the formations
I think one mistake that could be made if you use rocks and mortar is trying to lay it up as if you were making a wall
place your rocks in the cement, with a 2-4 inches apart and let your cement almost dry and then shape the cement to
resemble your stones, the mistake people make with cement is trying to shape while it is still wet or soft.
Below is a couple sites i have submitted
Dennis


www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/9/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/37566/Default.aspx
www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/9/postid/36650/view/topic/Default.aspx


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Yeah, I come across this old issue of GR and would like to follow this article's guidelines.









Has anyone reading this have experiance they can share please.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Biblegrove RR, 

http://www.mylargescale.com/Features/BuildersLogs/tabid/66/EntryID/12/Default.aspx 

Lots of pics in the PDF. Like Dennis, I favor using concrete and sculpting whatever rock effect you are going for. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Here is my latest plans to incorporate more of the river/waterfall into the track plans... HELIX baby!









I wonder if I could run a little side stream (off the main river) down the hill into town that ends in small pond. In that pond have an overflow tube run down to the Main pond?
Maybe have someway to adjust the flow etc?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Man Grover.. You're just coming out with one idea after another.. I like the helix, go for it.. 

(For the record.. I claim nicknaming you Grover... )


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Dave! 

BTW I do a great Grover impression from Sesame Street! Just for the 4 year old of course.... : p


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Just my opinion, but I am not a big fan of helixs. There is quite abit of tack in that helix, that I think would be more interesting to stretch out and put on the slope. I would definitely mock it up with electrical PVC pipe and compare it to snaking down the slope. 

Terl


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

pertaining a Helix... I do not know the Helix rules as to diameter/grade etc. 
I am considering the use of a larger 10' Dia. Circle on the bottom and an 8' Dia curve on the "top". 
This way the bottom curve will cross the creek on the down side of the hill and the top curve will come 
around behind it as you are looking up hill. A rather tall trestle will be needed on top and maybe a tunnel 
on the lower curve. This portion will no doubt determine whether this route will be a one way down hill 
only or if it can be climbed within a 2% grade. 
Question: Is 10" enough for clearence of a train. 
a 3% grade would give me 1.23' of clearence I think... 

I will still have to snake up and down the hill but wanting 8-10' curves makes it tough to turn around on such a steep slope. 
Thanks for the reminder to mock it up with my PVC, after racking my brain using my imagination. It will take on a whole new 
aspect when I actually stake grade etc. 

thanks


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Let's do some quick calculating for your helix. I would make 10" clearance the minimum from the top of the rail to the Bottom of the bridge above. Assume that it is 2" from the bottom of the bridge to the top of the bridge rail, this would give us an even 1 foot rail to rail. With a 10 foot diameter curve the circumference is about 31 feet and the grade would be 1ft / 31ft = 3.2%. With 8 ft diameter the circumference is 25 ft so the grade is 1/25 = 4%. This would be about the limit for traction on such a curve. Actually you would be much better off to make all your curves level and make the grade of the track steeper between the return curves. For a 2% grade curve with 1 ft of grade rise you would need 1/ 0.02 = 50 feet of circumference, which is about 16 foot diameter. It might be a good idea on your return curves to plan on cutting into the hill on the upper part of the curve and use that dirt to fill in on the lower part of the curve. This would reduce how high your tresttle work would be needed on the lower part and how far (what diameter) it would stick out in the air on the downhill part. 

Terl


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Steps are almost finished...








I am mimicking Ray Dunakin's steps on his most awesome layout. Thanks RAY









I used a combination of mortar and liquid nails to place the top blocks on the steps. The steps I used 
mortar on are more level that the step I only used liquid nails to seal to steps. 
Now all that is left is to finish the "faces" of the steps with alluminum foiled mortar to copy the natural 
stone look. I do not have heavey duty foil but can glue a few sheets together? I am a bit nervous about
this next step, any suggestions would be more than appreciated please!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Standard foil sprayed with Pam will work. Just make sure you coat the whole thing. For applying texture to the steps, you don't don't need more than a single layer of foil. I recommend doing it in sections. Anything bigger than about 12" x 16" gets too hard to control when applying it to the surface. 

I used high-strength mortar mix without any additional Portland cement. The only additive was the coloring agents. Only a tiny amount of color is needed to properly tint the mortar to a good stone-like color. Don't mix it too dry. You don't want it runny, like gravy, either. More of a pudding consistency. Smear it onto the Pam'd foil, about 1/4" to 1/2" thick. Wet the steps a little before applying the texture to insure good adhesion. Lift the foil by two corners, and slap it up against the step. Then press the foil down, smooshing the mortar into the surface a bit. 

Remove the foil after the mortar has reached the "green" stage of the cure -- solid, but not fully hardened. You can wait until it's completely hard but it might be a little more difficult to pull the foil out of the creases. I sometimes used a small wire brush to blend the seams between foil-textured sections. 

On my steps, I used the foil method on the front of the steps, and just spread a thin layer of tinted mortar over the top of the steps with my hand. This produces a surface which was rough enough to provide good traction even when wet. However, you could use the foil method on the tops too, it's up to you. 

BTW, Bob Treat's article on using concrete to simulate stone on his layout is what gave me the idea for texturing my steps and tunnel interiors. I've seen his layout in person and the simulated stone mountains look great. I would have used his method on my layout if I couldn't get real stone. One thing I might have done differently than him, is add a small amount of color to the concrete mix. I think this would prevent chipped or worn areas from standing out.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

ok, the weather finally came around this past weekend and I got the first limestone retainer wall started.








Shouldn't I start thinking about some drainage pipes to place between layers? This wall won't get much higher that the highest rock shown.
I want to use that 15" around, black flexable drainage pipe for tunnels but at Lowe's...20ft.=$130!
I am going to price it at Menard's, they are always cheaper on everything!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Was anybody hurt in that heavy equipment accident?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Just ask this guy!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

So, would a little Bible be a Testament?


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

John,
I'm impressed with the work and while you amy seem to need to apologize for the baby step in your posts it shows just how much work something like this can be. For me it shows some of the work I have to look forward to. I'm fortunate (or unfortunate?) that I do not ahve a grade like that to deal with though. Looking good so far!

Chas


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

funny Tom...

Thanks for the support, I would be easier to post a link to a web site or something, but I don't have one yet! hehe


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Had a friend in grade school, Mark Holy. He said once, "I just don't feel right turning in a book report and having to write Holy Mark."


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

HOLY pretty much stands for "Set apart" I am sure he was that. 
You know I had 3 older brothers Matthew, Mark and Luke didn't you? 
And I am the 7th son of my Father...hehe 
The youngest in the pic is Noah Christian Bible, no pressure on him there! lol


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Looks like you're off to a good start on your mountain. 

Cute kid, too.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

1st tunnel has arrived and is being put in place... With running all types of equipment (new and old) What would make a good retaining wall on the left side of this tunnel entrance? I really would like to dig it out a little and put in Cribbing but...?









This is a shot of the whole thing, it will be shortened somewhat and I am going to look for one of those Sprinkler tub cover things I've heard about, later today? To place in the middle for access to the center of the curve.









any suggestions?


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Personally, your tunnel is frightening. Mr. Mallet would be saying, "I am *not* a ferret!"


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Based upon my experience of fishing derailed trains out of a 14ft long straight tunnel, I would recomend that you shorten up your tunnel as much as possible in favor of an open cut because maintainence will be much easier. I'd recomend that you only use large stones in your retaining wall. 

I like seeing the progress you are making. 

Terl


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

He'll just have this guy crawl in and fetch it.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Terl, Why do you make only large rocks suggestion? 

I have trimmed the tunnel down to 12 feet and with the big sprinkler box in the middle, I hope will be okay. I guess I will just have to learn the hard way...? 
NOW, what do I use to create a flat and stable base within the corrugated culvert? Concrete? Lime? Boards?


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## GnTRailroad (Apr 3, 2009)

John,

I have a 8 foot tunnel and the kids have grown it really sucks when the train either stops or derails in the tunnel when you get to be in your 50's. I would never do more that a 4 foot tunnel!


George


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## GnTRailroad (Apr 3, 2009)

my tunnel and is to long now


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## GnTRailroad (Apr 3, 2009)

wrong picture


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

By big rocks I means rocks at least as big as the concrete blocks you use on your lower retaining wall. I have found out that over time when I used anything smaller, that they were just too easily pushed around by soil movement, especially for retaining wall purpose. 

If you went with two boxes instead of one on your tunnel for access, it would probably make track installation and maintainence much easier. If you have the one box already installed, don't worry about it you can probably get by. I would just use dirt or crusher fines to make the floor of the tunnel, because it is cheap and easy to move around. Hope this helps. 

Look forward to seeing your progress. 

Terl


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Just thought of this idea. Out of wood build a subroad bed on top of the tunnel. Make it one piece or two pieces. Attach the track, then shove the whole thing in from the end. Should conform to the tunnel because you built it on top of the tunnel so it's curveature matches. One suggestion would be to cut a bunch of 1/2" plywood strips about 4" x 18". Now screw two layers together on top of the tunnel with the upper layer of plywood spanning the joint of the layer underneath in a bricklike pattern. 

Terl


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

I recently redid the dirt subroad bed in my tunnels and found a good way to help level the dirt inside. I took a 2x6 board about 4 feet long and shoved it side to side and in and out of the tunnel, from both ends. It acted like a miniture road grader and left the dirt pretty smooth and level. Sorry I took so long to reply to your questions. Hope this helps some.

Terl


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Using the top of the tunnel is a great idea and I did not think of that! I thought of using a garden hoe/board to just level some ag lime mixed with mortar. I also have a little portland cement I can mix in the lime and after leveled... Just let it harden naturally. I have not cut and installed the access box yet and now plan on having 2 installed. 
thanks!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Here is a pic of how close to the end I will have 1st access port. I am also considering facing the stone wall with mortar using the aluminum foil technique? OR should I just leave it?


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

I think that the appearance of the rock is just fine without the need of a mortor facade, but that is your asthetic decision. I have found, however, that rock walls mortored together are much more durable than dry walled, but you can stick plants in the cracks with dirt for a more natural appearance. 

Terl


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I have back filled with mortar in the cracks but left plenty for drainage and plants... the wife says it look like Barney Rubble did it!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Wooooo Hoooo finally poured some concrete roadbed!








Afterwards, I thought I should have placed a drainage pipe under the roadbed in the center of the curve. Now I will place 1 on each end of this or just drive a pipe down into the gravel base for drainage. So water does not build up and create a pond on the inside of the loop???

And, I think I got a good deal on a whole lot of Pavestones to use around the pool and for steps? Only $300


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

1st loop of concrete/pvc roadbed is installed and I have asked that this thread be moved to the Track -- Roadbed Forum. I guess that after all this work I no longer feel like a beginner although my results may differ. All your continued support, comments are much appreciated and very motivating! I have a 4th of July pool party planned and the "head mistress" lol wants her right of way cleared of my tunnel excavating project so I have to finish this tunnel #2 contract between the high priority Tiki Bar and stone walkway to the Pool. All having to be mostly botched up and semi completed by this Sat. morning!








^^^ In order to proceed I have to mock up my new turnouts to route the mainline out of town and the station siding etc. Then laser level the PVC so I can pour more roadbed. I would also like to pour the streets in/out of town before covering area with Weed Fabric then lime and mulch. I have a few plants that are getting root bound in trays that are paitiently waiting on me.








^^^ here is Tunnel #2 that needs to be rush completed...wish me luck. Looks like I will need to soften the "clay" base with H2O before excavating any further. RRRRRRRRR


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Looks like you're making some real good progress there, John!


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

If you do the Foil technique Please post some pic's as you do it. Also closeups of the results. 

Some of the big rocks I have I had to put mortar at the base and on some of my portals I used Motar. I got this bag at Home Depot in the masonary section It is cone shaped. It looks like the bag Cake Decorators use. I use it to put motar between the rocks. Works rather well. People who build stone fire places use it to put motar between the stones like grout. 

I bought three for differet hole sizes to produce different beads of motar.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Help!










I need to stop the weed problem in town! I am ready to lay down the fabric and cover with lime/mulch but... I need to pour down the streets through town. 
Should I go ahead and cover the area first? Then come back and sweep away lime and mulch when ready to pour the roads? Right on top of the landscape fabric?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Well it's been a while since I posted any progress on the layout so here it goes, please remember that suggestions are very welcome.








Here I have the grass and weeds in town under control and under weed block and lime. You really can't tell but I do have concrete roadbed for a complete loop with a turn around finished and hope to lay some track soon.









Here I did not know what to do since I was so close to the sidewalk and it was starting to kinda erode up under it. I hope this looks ok when finished.....


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

How are you going to get curved track to sit right inside that tube? You won't be able to see if it's level. 

My sole tunnel is only 1/4 of a 10' diam circle, I'd have lost a train inside without an access hole in the middle. It's not a pleasant feeling dragging a derailed loco/ train out of it. 

My track was laid first and then I built my tunnel over it. Even then one edge of a portal was a tad close to the sides of long cars... I moved the tunnel! 

I hope you tested this part of construction before burying that pipe... I hope your ambitions are acheivable.. 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I can reach the middle of this tunnel from both sides and it is greater than 10' diameter curve. I too hope it works...?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I mounted my track to a board in the tunnel. But my tunnel is a straight through. You curved tunnel is going to be a challange


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

UUUGH! in theory , can't I just reach in and screw the ties down to the plastic pipe, ballast and run? It should give me right at 11" above the rail and 4 1/4" on each side of train (if it was straight) I see the potential problem here, especially with my very long LGB Genesis set!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Uh huh... 

It looked like there was a straight section before the curve in the tunnel pic above. I would have tried securing the joiners/clamps as I fed the track in, couldn't see getting the curved parts through the straight parts..... 
Another learned bit 'o knowledge.... my gardens is Rocks, it's much harder to get close to the portals once scenery was spread around. 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

the retaining wall for tunnel #2 is done and I even planted some silvermound in it. Thinking this would be a great lookout spot for a switch tower too.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I turned 40 today.... I spent the day finally laying the first sections of track on my layout. I could not think of a better way to spend my Birthday!









I grabbed some turnouts and tools...









Here I have the 6 turnouts in the village of Biblegrove all in place...









It went pretty smooth. I used an RLD rail bender and it works great!









Here is a birds eye (or Dispatch') Point of view from the deck...It's come a long way in a year.


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Looks great cant wait to see it completed








Nice work


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW!!! Somebody has been a busy boy. Looks GREAT!..


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

My very first run outdoors! Man it was a good day...!


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Cogradulations on running your first train outside. You have done alot of work on your railroad and it looks good. 

Terl


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## rgolding (Jan 2, 2008)

John, 

Great that you have had a "first run"


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Spring has sprung and I now intend to get something accomplished ASAP. IS THIS HOW YOU DO IT?








As you can tell in this pic, I have quite the steep hill to traverse. I simply thrown down some rocks and began to backfill to make a cut against the bank. Filled with Limestone and Lime topped with dirt.








Should drain well eh? Or else it will make it's own drainage


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I need some encouragement, feeling depressed after comparing current pic to last years. Not allot of progress in the past year. I have spent most of that time and $$$ building a Bar & Grille. And the fall weather will bring more favorable working conditions. I guess I just need to create a plan of attack and make some goals for myself (including posts of progress on this thread).


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

John, that railroad looks enormous... I can understand why you builded the bar first. If I had such a job ahead I needed a drink to! 
Can you cut the project in little ones, so you can oversee the whole thing and make it more handleable?


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks GREAT John.. I can't wait to join you for a BTS burger and cocktails at the bar..


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow that is a major tressle. Looks like the route up the hill is well designed also. Keep up the good work. 

Terl


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Sooooooooooooooooooooo! What's on tap?????? Regal


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

lol, have not purchased the Kegerator quite yet. Wanting a small fridge 1st for juices etc. DO have a Blender with spout on it! I always wanted one of those 2 stroke weed eater blenders with MX handlebars on it, but don't have that yet either.... maybe Xmas? lol


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Well if ya need some bar mirrors I have several! Regal


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 26 Jul 2010 08:50 AM 

















I like your foot rail. Did you buy that from a bar supply house or just make it out of plumbing parts? Either way, it looks great, nice job.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I had about 15 ft of the pipe from never putting in a meter at my old house/shop. Had to buy 4 more feet and all the fittings, mounting plates etc. mixed water pipe with electrical 1 1/2" o.d. but made it work. I thank GOD my father in law has a pipe threader/cutter etc. that was a big help. STILL cost $100 in parts to piece it together! The top was one piece of So. IL. Cedar tree 2" thick, gave $150 for 2 16' slabs of the biggest cedar tree I have ever seen! Still need to sand and coat it with envirotex (another $200) all lights are on dimmers (5) and plenty of outlets on 2 breakers. Hot/cold water in stainless sink, back bar etc. Installed a metal roof for dryness and all wires are hidden. Notice the BibleGrove box lit sign? all and all just under 2k for this thing, much more than anticipated! Started out just being a cheap bamboo tiki bar...1 year later....More for grillin than chillin' when weather is nice I can even "work" my job out there from laptop, phone line etc. 
thanks!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I had a break in the heat so I tried finishing up on the trestle, only concrete to be poured now. And I built another box girder bridge for the last 8' to Lake Paradise (pool). This way you can duck under when walking around perimeter or the pool, eh...Lake.








This bridge will most definitely need a center support so I am going to construct a round concrete pier using PVC as a mold. To be poured upside down so the modified end will fit up inside the bridge for support. I cut the PVC in half for easy removal and using hose clamps. I siliconed the cracks at the bottom too.
Question: Should I shove in some kinda screened filler? Do not want to use rebar because it oxidizes and cracks etc. I do have some plastic chicken fence, would this even help?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

A picture is worth a thoushand words?

You built a bar so you could have need for barstools so you could build ladder roadway on the barstools?









Thats logical. It works.









Plastic chicken wire? For Plastic Chickens?









I see you have a thatch roof on your bar. There is a nussery here in phoenix that is building thached roofs for your back yard.


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

The bigger question is John, do we need to be worried about salmonella in the eggs laid by plastic chickens??


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

John, 

The voice of experience speaks "stagger the side to side joints between the ladder sections". By staggering the side joints you will reduce both vertical and horizontal kinks in the ladder sub roadbed. My best suggestion is to overlap by at least 1 foot (more if you can). 

Bob Cope


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

This is NOT a ladder roadbed. I use lime and concrete! It is my best attempt at a box girder bridge....


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Actually the box girder bridge looks very good. It has more detail than mine.

I just learned how to make the detail from Livesteam.

Is that the friday night poker table under the box girder bridge?









PS Plastic chicken egges have a longer shelf life than regualr egges


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

The only problem I had in doing this type of construction was my L shapes tended to fall off so I have to find a new type of adhesive to make it work for me. Later RJD


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

SOOOOO....? what can I use in the pillar form like wire etc? certain type of high strength concrete maybe?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 21 Aug 2010 09:05 PM 
SOOOOO....? what can I use in the pillar form like wire etc? certain type of high strength concrete maybe? 

What Piller form?

Am I missing something?

There is rebar in these puppies.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

4" x 6' high = 2 foot in the ground - listed just above... do not know how to re-post a quote, sorry


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Considering the thickness of your collumn ( about 4" , right?) I'd stay away from steel rebar. If you get mousture in the collun and the rebar starts to rust & expand, it'll destroy your collunm from the inside out.. There was a good article in Garden Railways a few years back on this. 

I'd look into glass fiber. I have used glass fiber reinforced concrete for other small projects in the past. The omnidirectional nature of the loose fiber in the concrete makes for an incredibly strong mix. Some people have had "issues" with the finished project looking "fuzzy". If you have excess glass fiber poking through the surface, just burnish the surfaces with a propane torch to burn off the excess and it's fine. 
Glass fiber reinforced concrete may be worth looking into.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

That is becoming an impressive bridge! 
It looks as long as my entire railroad... ;-(


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## tom h (Jan 2, 2008)

John, did you consider instead of concrete column, making one out of metal, PVC or aluminum, and make it like a girder type? I dont have any pics, but I am sure someone has a couple, just have a base, then build something on the base. Kind of like you see bridges over rivers, concerete base, them girder system. I hope you are getting what I am trying to describe









Tom H


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Great railroad you got there John.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Some where I saw a comment about rebar rusting eventually and then the cement started to deteriorate. Later RJD


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks for comments! Yes I stated I am not going to use rebar. I have thought of the fiberglass mat theory, thanks Dave. I have a pile of various broken bags of cement I purchase when I find it for $1 bag. I think there is some "fast drying" stuff, motar and portland cement... whatever I do, it's not final and would be easy enough to change. Just like to do it "right" the 1st time. MLS has saved me from many trial and error mistakes! In which has saved tons of time and effort for sure. i was going to use standard concrete mix but do not want the rock agrigate to show on the outside, would not be to scale ya know???? A friend that does concrete for a living said to use what he calls "grout" ??? Surely not the same as tile grout eh? I would think that would be too brittle.... is Grout another professional slang word for a certain type of concrete?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

P.S. I am at a friends in Chicago right now and BOY, these people are sure proud of their little manicured 3x5 lawns! I cannot stop imagining every one of them having a loop of G guage around it!


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

John, 

Grout comes in many forms. Google 'Sika 212 grout' for some info.. 

I can't help on local US products, there's bound to be something similar in your neck of the woods if you want to go down this path. Another $$ outlay though.. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

*Started the Trestle to Paradise Lake back in March and ALMOST finished! *










*Cannot wait! * I am ready to start laying more roadbed so I can show SOME progress this year!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

70' of concrete roadbed poured this weekend! Looking forward to a track laying party this fall.....








Poured 10' section with mortar and it is NOT holding up - BIG nono and will surely regret it later. To fix or not? Sure would hate to move back a step but 3 steps forward may be worth it?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Only $10 for enough vinyl cut to do 2 bridges! http://www.attitudedesigns.com/ they are awesome, did all my shirts and stuff too!

















I think it's cool that the bottom picture will be visitors 1st view of the layout as they come up the driveway.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Not around the water feature, go accross it.









That is a great looking trestle.

JJ


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Stopped at Lowe's in C'dale today to price some pavers (MENARDS ALWAYS CHEAPER) , don't know what I was thinkin.... upside-
Found out ALL plants and trees were 50% Off! Picked up my 1st dozen (beautiful) dwarf Alberta Spruces! $3.50 each.... 









Now I have to decide the perfect place to put them- This is the hardest part!


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

John, 

Railroad is looking great, keep up the good work and don't get yourself fired from that job...... 

Chris


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Hey John Did you get Re Hired after the crash or are you still under supention? 

Those will make great trees.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

still FIRED!


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Give the boss a cookie, he will probably let you back on then.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By up9018 on 05 Oct 2010 07:31 PM 
Give the boss a cookie, he will probably let you back on then. 

I think he is going to need more than just one cookie. That was a bigger Disaster then I have ever done









Heck,that was worse then what ever Stan and I did together.

Maybe he should have the handle of TRAIN WRECK JOHN B.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks to ALL who subscribe and reply to this thread!
My dirt guy showed up today and after 1 hour and $50 - My yard is a wreck once more!
















*Burn pit hole dug and a little spot to the left of the lower road bed for a siding.....*









*Wider spot up top line for a passing siding and a township etc.* 
*May NOT look like much for $50 but it WAS 2 dump truck loads full and saved my back ALLOT of grief!*


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Excellent progress John, You're putting me to shame. 

Whats the grade on the LH track in photo 2? 

Cheers 
Neil


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I just saw this
you need 
2 bags concrete mix, some call it gravel mix
1 mortar

3/8" rebar in middle


Posted By Biblegrove RR on 06 Sep 2010 08:09 PM 

70' of concrete roadbed poured this weekend! Looking forward to a track laying party this fall.....








Poured 10' section with mortar and it is NOT holding up - BIG nono and will surely regret it later. To fix or not? Sure would hate to move back a step but 3 steps forward may be worth it?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Neil.... it's as low a grade as I could get! lol ? 

Thanks Marty, I am leaving PVC in place to screw track to and not rebar.... hope it holds up.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

John, that is one very ambitious project. Lookin' great. 

Good meeting you and Noah at Marty's. Noah had a wonderful time running trains with the guys.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

John, it looks pretty close to level, right? 

A little hard to tell from the pictures. 

Yes, an impressive sight coming up the driveway! 


Congrats, Greg


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow John, you are getting after it....looking GREAT! 

Chris


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

*The new township and siding took about 16 hours to establish to this point! A week+ of scheduling*


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job John. Looking GREAT!


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Do you think the downspout will lead to any issues? Could be an opportunity for a "river" with a bridge... Just thinkin'....


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Looking good! 
I'd suggest filling it with water to see where you'll need drainage. Better to drill through the crete now before you add track.... 

John


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

I have watched this in a downpour flood condition and the roof under the deck does not really drain that much water. All ground is at a slope and only the roadbed would hold it back. If it does i will simply cut and install drainage, easy nuf...thanks for the heads up though! It is a mild concern in the back of my mind


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

*WOW! I'm baaacK.*
*I hope I rememebr how to post some pics, Finally back outside and frantically trying to prep for the hosting of my 1st club meeting next week! * 
_*Noah (6) had a great idea to take some pics while he run his Sante Fe for the 1st time this year, I hand him the camera and said go for it!*_










*I took this one this afternoon.... 1st track laid in over a year outside and we're finally North of the steps to Paradise Lake....*

















If you go back to the beginning of this HUGE book of a post, you should see it from the beginning = "10 year plan" in 4
I hope


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking good so far John, glad to see trains running on it. Are you and Noah coming back to Marty's this year? 

Chris


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Not sure we are going to make it Chris..... we want to


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Its great re reading from the beginning John - I remember watching this thread as you posted and always looked forward to the next update. 

Have you got any overall shots? 

Cheers 
Neil


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

*
-Noah's #24 (Master Engineer) has stopped at our very 1st structure on the BibleGrove for a conductor change (that's me, yeah I got fired again!) lol*










*Here are a couple more pics of the extended main line to the Interchange....*

















*HERE IS A FAVORITE.... not many spots to take pics without full scale Human exsistance in the background (house, telephone wires, pool etc.)*


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Nice John, good to see things running. You layout is looking really great and coming along nicely. Sorry to hear about your latest firing, run another one off the tracks? 

Keep us posted. 

Chris


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

Great pictures John.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Are ya done ,,YET???? 
good job bud


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good.. Like the long run by the road.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That last picture is a keeper! 

Greg


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

We made the Sunday edition of the Southern Illinoisan paper last week![/b]

http://thesouthern.com/lifestyles/leisure/large-scale-model-train-hobbyists-are-on-the-same-track/article_9b7f3d26-4a3b-11e1-ac7c-0019bb2963f4.html?mode=story


watch for a full magazine spread coming up this summer in Southern Illinois Magazine.


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Congrats John, nice article! 

Best, 
TJ


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Great Article John!!!! Glad to see the locomotive ON the trestle. How is your Railroad coming along? 

Chris


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

well Chris.... if you look carefully, no track on it yet! lol They are going to do a full magazine spread on just my railroad this spring, OH MY I have allot to do!


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Nothing like a deadline to motivate someone! Good Luck john and nice to see your layout again! 

Chas


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Heh, I know how you feel John. I volunteered to do a class on garden railroading as part of our community education program in June. That means I gotta get a lot done to be ready for my class!!!


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Congrats John on a nice article, great read. I only wish I had read it earlier as I drove down to Carlyle from the Indianapolis area last weekend to attend your Gateway Winter Meet (my first but not my last). You guys put on a good show. Assume you were there. 

I have enjoyed this thread on your progress. Continue to keep us posted. Just wish I had your ambition. 

Dale


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

FOR SALE! Yes I regret to inform you that my home and Railroad is up FOR SALE. Going to downsize after divorce and may or may not take trains with me. And it is just about finished too! BUMMER!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow! Sorry to hear that, after all the time and effort and the great results you achieved! 

Please don't stop posting! 

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Been there, done that. 

Sorry to hear you've joined the club. 

Take the trains. 

You won't regret it.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Take the trains John, they will help you keep sane thru the whole thing. Plus you have nice stuff! 

Chris


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By up9018 on 09 Jun 2012 08:28 PM 
Take the trains John, they will help you keep sane thru the whole thing. Plus you have nice stuff! 

Chris 
I agree with Chris.....Take the trains with you......Start over.....You will find they will be a help later on. 

JJ


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry to hear. Being divorced myself, I can understand why the Bible says, "God hates divorce." So do I.


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## wigginsn (Jan 9, 2008)

Good to hear from you again John. Sorry to hear what has happened. 

I say keep what you can as well, enough for a kick start some time in the future anyways. Replacing stuff later is harder than keeping it.. 

Cheers 
Neil


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry to here that John. I enjoyed watching you build the RR and obsticales you had to over come. So as with a divorce you shall over come. Yes try to keep the trains. I did and glade that I did. Help me keep my sanity. Stay in touch. Later RJD


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

WHAT??????? 
wives own 59% of anything it seems. 
Divorce??? thats a nasty word. 
I don't even want to hear it. 
sorry bud. 
MAN!!!!!!!!!!


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Railroad for lease. Needing some motivation here


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 01 Aug 2012 09:19 PM 
Railroad for lease. Needing some motivation here 

Get yourself a "Thomas" and his "friends" and lease it out for birthday parties! You can get a "Special Events Program Application" from your insurance company and get "rider" for the day if liability is a concern.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Take some time. It'll take you a while to deal with your loss. There will always be trains.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

John, I too am starting down this road..she moved out July 14th...sigh. Waiting for her to file so we can start to truly hash out the details...The stuff is all accounted for except the house and her car. Custody will be the issue for me and the trains are what will hit the auction block to finance me getting custody. I will not be getting rid of them all though. Good luck John. As has been said this too shall pass and better things are on the horizon. 

Chas


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