# Glue for Outside Buildings



## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I'm looking for a recommendation for glue to put some of my buildings together that can withstand the elements really well. I built a few Piko structures a few years ago but some of them have started coming apart. I used a superglue gel by Loctite. I've kept the structures outside the entire time due to lack of storage. 

I'm also interesting in trying my hand at building models out of wood and wonder what glue is recommended for this as well.


I appreciate any suggestions.

 Richard


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

For the last couple of years I've been using E-6000 for my plastic and wood projects. So far, so good.
Mark
*http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com*


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard, 

I've never done a Piko structure but... 

E-6000 is great. I've used it a lot especially where gluing different types of materials together. 

For wood on wood you can't really beat Titebond III. If you are painting or staining you have to watch any excess. I wipe down any drips with a damp paper towel as needed. 

Best, 
TJ


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Super glue and other types of glue meant for plastic are a good start. they will hold all of the parts in their correct alignment and location. However, for Pola and Piko structures to withstand the elements, I and I'm sure many others, use some sort of caulking. Silicone is good, but can be messy and difficult to clean up. Liquid nails or some other types of construction adhesives work OK. But I have found that these adhesives do not stick to plastics all that well. The best thing I have come across is in the ceramic tile isle at Home Depot. It is sanded or unsanded caulking, made to match various grout colors. It adheres extremely well to plastic and cleans up with water. Another excellent product is Loctite tub and shower surround adhesive. It's made to install those plastic tub surrounds. It grabs quickly, cleans up with water and seems to hold like a five hundred pound gorilla. 

I have used one or more of these products over the past twenty years. Once I have the building assembled, I caulk all of the inside joints. Wall corners, roof to wall joints, etc. My structures are out all year long. Some of them are twenty years old. I live in south eastern Pa. so we get all types of weather.


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## Tenwheeler (Mar 5, 2010)

Richard,

For the Pico structures (and dissimiliar material bonding) UV-6800 provides excellent long term performance for outdoor use. UV-6800 is made by the same company as E6000, but with UV stabilizers added. UV-6800 is also suitable for underwater use.

Wood to wood bonding - Titebond III is hard to beat. Just need to remove any excess with a damp towel to maintain stain or paint capability.

Best Regards,
Jerry


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Liquid Nails for Construction, use LOTS of it inside.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

UV-6800 is made by the same company as E6000, but with UV stabilizers added. 

What type of store sells the UV-6800. I found E6000 at Hobby Lobby, but I don't think they carry the UV type. 

JackM


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

What type of store sells the UV-6800. I found E6000 at Hobby Lobby, but I don't think they carry the UV type. 

JackM 
I buy mine on line at *Creative Wholesale *in fact I order the large tubes because I find I use it for more than just the RR


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

If gluing wood-to-wood, I like TiteBond III. If it's anything else E-6000.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By George Schreyer on 08 Aug 2011 01:38 PM 
Liquid Nails for Construction, use LOTS of it inside. 
I second Liquid Nails. Use the heavy duty construction grade for exterior use.

Tite Bond III is excellent on wood. TBIII has a different formula then TBII which makes it completely water proof.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

If you want to glue the PIKO and POLA buildings together permanently, use IPS Weld-On #16. This solvent glue is the consistency of syrup and melts the plastic in the buildings together and has just enough body to fill in any gaps that might be along the seams. I've has great success using this method. IPS Weld-On #16 is available at your local plastics supply house or on line from TAP Plastics, though shipping is quite expensive since it is considered hazardous. TAP also sells UV-6800 along with E-6000 and E-6100.

To bond large areas of wood together, nothing beats Titebond III. I also use a lot of Black E-6000 to bond wood-to-wood and wood-to-plastic. I use this where there might be a chance that I will have to replace the wood at a later date. This has come in very handy on my redwood trestle where the kids have accidentally broken some of the parts. 


Russ Miller


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## rsmproductions (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions...If I were to sum up what has been shared I would have to say there are three preferred "plastic" glues...E-6000, UV-6000 and IPS Weld-On #16. Titebond III is the winner with wood.... 

I appreciate all the suggestions. Not sure if I can find any of the plastic glues locally...so will have to order online. I actually have some Titebond III. 

Russ...thanks for the additional suggestions of Black E-6000...I'm in the planning stages for a large trestle so knowing this is well timed. 

Richard


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

When I first started in the hobby, I used Titebond III for a 20' long structure. Everything fell apart in 6 months; it was a gooey mess. I found out the hard way that I should have stained the cedar AFTER gluing, NOT before.


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