# Rail size: thoughts on Code 215, 250 ...



## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Hi everyone. I'm curious what recommendations / experience / opinions people have regarding rail size?

If all goes well I hope to be able to lay an outdoor loop of track next spring. I'm leaning toward a Roundhouse locomotive, and want track which is aesthetically realistic and operationally reliable. I'm sure I'll use aluminum due to the cost advantage.

I expect I will place a loop of track on the ground, though I will have to accommodate a modest slope on my property (between six inches and one foot, I think.) I'm planning ballasted track.

My question is on the merits of Code 215 versus 250 rail, though other comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Matthew


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Looks like you'll be having fun soon! 

Your needs will be balanced by your wants... 

But, depends on track support...wheel flange clearances, who steps on your track work. 
There are many things to consider in choosing what rail to use. 

This will give you more to ponder for now. 

Dirk


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I use code 250 and everything runs okay on it. Seems I recall someone saying the same about code 215. Not sure about finding switches in that size. Code 250 is not problem, several make them.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I bought code 215 and I think it looks better for my 1:32 scale RR, I have seen a few friends rolling stock that has (what I call) oversized flanges on the wheels and the cars bounce over the molded in spikes of the ties. My track was also elevated so I had no worry about someone stepping on the slightly less robust code .215 rail. If I were to have it on the ground, I think the code .250 would be better due to its slightly greater strength.

But, for you, it mostly depends on what scale you are planning on running and how much fidelity to scale you want. Code 250 could be the perfect rail for the scale and type of RR out are planning on. 

Code 250 represents 8.000" in 1:32 scale, 7.375" in 1:29, 6.000" in 1:24, 5.6250" in 1:22.5, 5.0750" in 1:20.3, and 3.4250" in 1:13.7 (also known as 7/8th scale).
Code 215 represents 6.880" in 1:32 scale, 6.235" in 1:29, 5.160" in 1:24, 4.8675" in 1:22.5, 4.3675" in 1:20.3, and 2.9455" in 1:13.7 (also known as 7/8th scale).

If you REALLY care about scale fidelity, figure out what scale is to be your primary modeling scale (you can always run other stuff for fun), and then figure out what track you are primarily modeling (based on the primary era you are modeling and the track usage -- mainline heavy traffic, backwoods, etc.) and then pick your rail (there are other sizes available, too).

If you DO NOT care much about scale fidelity, then pick the heavier track for its strength.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

It does seem like the mechanical strength of 250 outweighs the appearance of 215. In the event I have guests running trains, I'd like the common brands of 45 mm models to run acceptably. I'm planning on keeping radius larger than I need, as well - probably around 12 feet. It will be the narrow gauge look track - probably Llagas Creek. It sounds like I'm less likely to regret 250. 

Although everything I have currently is 1:22.5, I'm leaning toward a Roundhouse steamer, and I think they are already "wrong" on 45 mm track - supposed to be 1:19 on 32 mm. I like the "two foot" scale, but there are too few models available.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I think all the trains look better on code 250. I've had mine for 20 years with no problems.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

My narrow gauge line is laid with Llagas Creek code 250 aluminum, with no problems after six years here in Vermont. In the overall scheme of things and once down and in use, the difference between codes 215 and 250 is not readily apparent; the difference between them and code 332 is very noticeable. 

Regarding support, my track is not directly on the ground. The track is designed for live steam and is mostly elevated on an aluminum pan structure. Even where a slope brings the track to ground level, the pans are used, giving support to the ballasted track. Also, they allow screws to hold the track in place where desired. 

My track is not insulated for electric use. Llagas Creek switches have uninsulated frogs; those made by Sunset Valley have plastic inserts which will allow electric track power. In my opinion, Llagas Creek and Sunset Valley both produce excellent products of equal quality. And, important to me, they are American made at a reasonable price. 

Larry


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Matthew,
Tommy Mejia's NG accucraft #41 running on Russ Rutalj's elevated layout. Russ uses Sunset Valley code 250 aluminum with SV NG ties. Note ballast. Russ uses ALL Sunset Valley products including turnouts. Like Larry said.......their turnouts are up there with the best and American made at good prices.










Tommy's USAT SD40-2 standard gauge looks equally nice on SV aluminum code 250 rail!









Note: All of these locos are battery/RC, so the use of aluminum is NOT an issue with conductivity.







Russ's layout is ALL battery or live steam. No trackpower.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

I use both on my outdoor, on the ground, garden railroad. I am mostly Accucraft D&RG live steam. I use Llagas Creek nickel silver and aluminum flex track. In my humble opinion, you will need some form of roadbed to secure the track to for stability. I use the PVC roadbed sold by Split Jaw. It's expensive, but works great here in the mud of Houston. We have other members that have used PVC strips they bought at Home Depot or Lowes fastened to PVC pipe. That seems to work well also. People that float their track tend to use more rigid fixed radius brass track like Aristo, LGB and such. Good luck.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Those of you securing track, doesn't that pose a problem with rails expanding and contracting as temperature changes? If my math is right, 100 feet of track will grow in length by roughly 1.5 inches over the yearly temperature range. 

John, 

Can you expand on what you mean by "stability?" 

Llagas Creek vs. SVRR seemed like very similar products, but I'm on the east cost, so it's one day shipping and half the price of a west cost product. 

Something I neglected to mention earlier, is I want to be able to modify the railway as easily as is practical given the other objectives. I already decided I'd leave sufficient clearance for a parallel track to be added later. I also have insecure employment, and having to move when I change jobs is the norm, so I'd like to be able to remove the railway and restore the land rapidly.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

100 feet of track will grow in length by roughly 1.5 inches 
I don't recall seeing that much growth, but I did make allowances for thermal expansion/contraction by using nickel-silver rail joiners instead of screwed jaws/connectors. Letting the track float in the ballast took care of the wiggles. [There's a photo around here of someone's long straight tracks all deformed by sunshine.] 

I agree with everything said above. If you plan to walk around the track, and there is any chance someone will step on it, then aluminum will be a problem. You'll have to remove the piece and flatten it. If it is slightly raised above the walking area, and you have no track power, then alum is fine.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

you will need some form of roadbed to secure the track to for stability 
John - I assume you mean stable = unlikely to move off the flat surface. I would have thought Houston had enough of a temperature range to give you problems if you screw it down? 

A crushed rock roadbed, like the prototype, will handle anything but requires maintenance (i.e. can become unstable over time when the squirrels dig underneath or the tree roots start to show.) 

Another consideration in the same vein. Roger had a long hill, and at the bottom of the slope was a raised pipe (spline) roadbed curve. I always cringed when a really heavy loco, like the Accucraft 2-8-2s, came down the hill and hit the curve, pushing it outwards. However, Roger had the rails clamped together and the ends of the ties on the outside were prevented from moving off the spline by a low ridge. It worked.


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## Burke (Oct 31, 2020)

jfrank said:


> I use both on my outdoor, on the ground, garden railroad. I am mostly Accucraft D&RG live steam. I use Llagas Creek nickel silver and aluminum flex track. In my humble opinion, you will need some form of roadbed to secure the track to for stability. I use the PVC roadbed sold by Split Jaw. It's expensive, but works great here in the mud of Houston. We have other members that have used PVC strips they bought at Home Depot or Lowes fastened to PVC pipe. That seems to work well also. People that float their track tend to use more rigid fixed radius brass track like Aristo, LGB and such. Good luck.


How do you handle joining the 215 and 250?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Burke said:


> How do you handle joining the 215 and 250?


(You did notice that the thread was from 2013?) However, your question is just as valid. Llagas sells joiners that adapt code 215 to code 250 called a Rail Blender:









On my railroad, I used to cut the code 250 horizontally along the web between top and bottom, then squeeze the bottom to fill the gap. It produced the same effect.


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## Burke (Oct 31, 2020)

Pete Thornton said:


> (You did notice that the thread was from 2013?) However, your question is just as valid. Llagas sells joiners that adapt code 215 to code 250 called a Rail Blender:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


(Yes!) And thank you so much.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Matthew,
When you said Roundhouse steamer did you mean live steam? Sunset Valley turnouts were designed for the rigors of live steam locos. My preference now for track is Sunset Valley rail code 250 in Accucraft tie strip with Sunset Valley turnouts. If you need track power, go with nickel silver or stainless rail. I use aluminum because I'm all battery operation. I spray paint the 6' rail sections before assembly to the tie strip. Easy to do. Get something like a 1x6 just over 6'. Put four equally spaced16 penny nails in the board in a straight line. Then just stack the rail by weaving it between the nails. I usually do about eight at a time. Then using a smooth cloth (not a fluffy towel) with some paint thinner or similar to clean off any over spray on the top of the rail pieces. There should not be much except for the top piece.
I just noticed how old this thread is. Waste of time for me to respond.


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## MGates (Mar 16, 2016)

Pete Thornton said:


> (You did notice that the thread was from 2013?) However, your question is just as valid. Llagas sells joiners that adapt code 215 to code 250 called a Rail Blender:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I understand this is a month late, but I did want to mention that we do not have code 215 to 250 blenders, just code 250 to code 332 blenders available. I believe at one point code 215 to 250 blenders were available but were pulled due to lack of sales sometime before I jumped on board as the turnout builder/manager in 2018. I like the idea of modifying the code 250 rail by cutting the web and crimping it so the two rails can be joined with a code 215 joiner. Also, soldering a small piece of code 215 and code 250 nickel silver rail together with the rail heads on the same plane would work as a homemade rail blender essentially.


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