# 48' Bethgons



## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Well, I finally got a start on scratch building 3- 48' Bethgon cars which was inspired by Marty's thread a while back. My brother is also building one with more detail. Here are some pictures of my progress so far.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I also spent last weekend wiring in some outlets and installing some lighting along with a work bench and peg board in the furnace room for a work space to work on train stuff during the winter months. If I only had room for my small table saw. I would have to take down my HO-scale train as it comes through the wall and turns around in the furnace room.


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## Guest (Nov 14, 2008)

WOW those are really lookin great, cant wait to see them finished...








Nick


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes indeed fine looking cars. Should make a great addition to the RR. Later RJD


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## Dave F (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow.. Lookin' good Leon.. What road name are you going with?


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Dave 
At the moment I am undecided on the road name. I really like the BNSF with swoosh but am leaning toward the UP since that is what the rest of my coal drag is. Never count out the IC, though I don't believe they had these cars, But it's my railroad so I guess I could letter them IC anyway. 
Leon


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I finished up the main body of the 3rd car and switched to using KD-789's. Now for the ribs and other trim pieces.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice job. Very smooth plastic cuts, did you use a table saw or similar power tool? I have some large 1/8" thick sheets I'll be needing to cut for a building but don't have a table saw and I'm sort of interested in what's good out there for cutting plastic.


I like the new BNSF swoosh on freight cars, especially the newer aluminum coal gondolas. Not so fond of it on the locomotives, but it's growing on me the more I see it. 



I think those would look great painted in BNSF colors, like this car:

BNSF Bethgon


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

What are Bethgon's noted for? Other than being a kewl looking car.

What are they used for?


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Matt. 
I used a fine toothed blade in my table saw for most cuts and finished up using a Dremel tool and utility knife on those cuts that couldn't be done on the table saw. You get some rough plastic on the edges after using a table saw and I just ran a steel square along the edges to knock off the excess. Worked fairly well. Also used a file on the inside corners. This is my first atempt at scratch building with plastic so I am not in the know of anything else out there that can be used to cut plastic. It has been fun so far tho. I also love the BNSF colors. 
Also, Thank you Dave, Nick and RJD for your complements. 
Leon


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi JJ, 
These cars are used to haul coal and I imagine other material but they are locked down in a rotary dump and turned to be emptyed instead of unloading out the bottom.


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## N.S. Rob (Jan 2, 2008)

What are Bethgon's noted for? Other than being a kewl looking car. 

What are they used for? 


The cars were built by Bethlehem Steel and had a unique bottom which added more cubic feet. They were made of aluminum and unloaded via a car dumper.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks guys for the answers.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

I like em, here is my take on it. 











Which ends up like this, yes the bottoms are simplified for forming reasons. 





























Only another 99 to go, oh and a bit more land.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Pretty clever Rod. By using real aluminum you don't have to worry about painting/plating them to get the right shine


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## Sesh1975 (Aug 25, 2008)

Whats the cost like when building that out of aluminum as compared to the styrene?


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Rod, 
Great looking car and workmanship.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

So far it cost me a lot of time making the Cad drawing for the laser cutter and few beers for they guy that did the cutting. The Ally is a pig to cut, the second car has some stainless steel parts mixed in. So far I have 2 prototypes, its stalled at the moment due to the cost of the metal USA intermodal trucks. I think I am going to shelve it at the moment. 

Pity, one could make one as a kit. The whole thing is slotted together "dry" and held together by the 2mm machine screws through the solebars


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## Sesh1975 (Aug 25, 2008)

Posted By Rod Hayward on 11/20/2008 4:03 AM
So far it cost me a lot of time making the Cad drawing for the laser cutter and few beers for they guy that did the cutting. The Ally is a pig to cut, the second car has some stainless steel parts mixed in. So far I have 2 prototypes, its stalled at the moment due to the cost of the metal USA intermodal trucks. I think I am going to shelve it at the moment. 

Pity, one could make one as a kit. The whole thing is slotted together "dry" and held together by the 2mm machine screws through the solebars





Such a shame to shelve such a neat piece. I would love to be able to build something like that.


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

If you decide to produce it, how much would a kit be without trucks Rod GBP ?








Rod F


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Not sure Rod, I'd have to talk to the guy. Might be a minimum run factor involved. Currently the prototypes were produced when time permitted. I have nt seen a train of them any where less than about 100 cars. I have 3 Kato SD70MACs with an SD60M (very similar, just a tad shorter) for my N setup with 40 cars and that does nt look too bad. 40 1.29 jobs could be a bit long....


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod, 
I'd be more concerned with the shipping over the pond than anything else. 

That is as I believe I said before a pretty awesome car! 

Chas


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Chas I would nt go there. Rod is in the UK, nice bloke too, If I can halp him I will.


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## MikeK (Jan 3, 2008)

Dear Rod,

If there is a possibility of having a run of these done in aluminium, I'd be interested in several to absorb a portion of any minimum run requirement.


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

MikeK you have mail.
Rod


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Any progress has came to a stop as I came down with the flue Friday morning. SUCKS!! 
















Leon


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OH, And like you can't lay in bed and work?????? Big sisssssy


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## Allegheny (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod,

Have you considered switching to 1/16" thick acrylic? Would be fairly close in thickness to 1.5 mm aluminum so the tweaking to your CAD files to allow for cutting on a CO2 laser engraver shouldn't be too bad. While considerably lighter in weight, the bottoms would have a lot of room for ballast!


Brian


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## Guest (Nov 23, 2008)

Posted By MikeK on 11/21/2008 5:53 PM
Dear Rod,

If there is a possibility of having a run of these done in aluminium, I'd be interested in several to absorb a portion of any minimum run requirement.



I would be in for 10 myself......









Nick


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Much as I would love to help you chaps out with doing a run of these cars the logistical nightmares of past experiences have put me off sending dribs and drabs to all points of the globe for good. 

A way around it might be to send my drawings to some one with a little more time and faith. 

I have a few minor corrections to make first.


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## Allegheny (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Rod,

I have large bed CO2 laser engraver and would be willing to try creating a version of these cars in nominal 1/16" acrylic. Cutting aluminum usually requires a much more expensive YAG laser, water jet, or plasma cutter - none of which are particularly home friendly to begin with. I can easily cut parts for 1:22.5 scale or smaller cars.


I tried to send you a PM earlier this morning and your spam filter bounced the message. Please send me a PM if you want to discuss this further 


Brian
Massachusetts, USA


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

If someone this side of the pond is cutting I'd be interested for sure! no offense menat as I appreciate the time it takes to "engineer" something like this. (Darn AutoCAD & Solidworks) 

Chas


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah, but not all of it is 1.5 ally you see, some of it is 3mm and some stainless. 

pm sent


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm still in for some. 

Chas


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I got a little more done today.


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Pete. Did you say what Road you were going to paint it?
Rod


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Rod. 
I'm going with the Union Pacific logo.


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## Sesh1975 (Aug 25, 2008)

Looks great!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice clean lines.... I think you have this down pat...


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Marty, 
I found some 1/16" brass rod at Hobby Lobby to make some grab irons out of. Got a few put on the corner. Lot more to go. Bottom of the top picture you can see my simple jig I'm using to make the grab irons. Basically it is just a guide to show me where to bend the brass rod.
















Leon


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I ended up finding a small vise grip so I could bend the wire over on both sides so they are the same everytime. 
I'm wonder how you'll do the steps? thats where I fell short on. May try and cast them from AC ones.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Jason [BULL], 
Sorry it took me so long to post the measurements and styrene sizes you asked for. I drew up a sketch with everything on it. These are what I used, you may want to change some. Your choice. The main body parts are cut from sheet styrene 1/8" [.125"] thick. I used a 16 1/2 degree cut on pieces that need to be cut at a bevel on the ends or end. I believe there should be 3 reenforcement beams spaced across the middel of the car also. These are not shown. About 1' scale down from the top. I'm using 1/16" brass rod to make the grab irons also. This car may not be exactly to scale but it's close enough for me.
Leon


http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/leonpete/Bethgon.jpg 
(Image exceeds both 640 pixel width & file size, changed to link SteveC mod.)[/i]


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Sorry, Can some one make this a little smaller. 
Leon


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## bull (Jan 28, 2008)

Thanks Leon that will work you did a great job building your cars hope mine turn out as nice. Trying to get my winter projects all lined up if I can ever finish this gp-40 high hood been working on. Want to have a dozen or so bethgons going also looking into building 2 mp-15dc switchers Thanks again Bull


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Leon 
I was wrong when I told you 3/32" wire. I use 3/64" brass wire for grab irons.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Added lower grab iron with styrene.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Hard getting all those grab holes drilled just right, isn't it??? Man I got frustrated on that.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Marty, 
Yea, that is fun with a hand held drill, seems like you never hit the pencil mark the same. I'm also kinda stumped on how to make the steps. May leave them off, probable break off anyway. Think I'll start on another car for now. 
I was planing on painting these with KRYLON, METALLIC BRILLIANT SILVER and just noticed it says "indoor'. I wounder if it would still be OK to use this paint and seal it with KRYLON, crystal clear, satin after the decals are on. 
I still have to look into getting some Decals. Probably from Stan.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Have you thought about using AC steps as they are a separate part added to there cars. Just a thought. Later RJD


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Leon 
be sure to let it dry well between coats and before decals. 
RJ has a good idea if you can get that many steps, I was looking into angel brass cuting one side and folding it into a U shape. It never got past thought. 
I the old days when I stoped runing stock cars , I cut them up for parts and left the shells track side.


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## Burl (Jan 2, 2008)

For stirrup steps, I use 1/16" copper tubing, which I flatten with hammer. After I bend it, I crimp the ends to make them square. That way they fit in a 1/16" hole. Works pretty good for me. You can see one in a link to this photo


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

I should imagin it would nt be very hard to find some staples about that size ?


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Hey Burl, That looks pretty good. What do you use to hold them in place? Gel super glue? 
Thanks 
Leon


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## Burl (Jan 2, 2008)

I put a dab of thick CA on the end, then shove them in the hole... but you've got to be quick!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Be quick,,,well that leaves Leon out. 

Fun isn't it Leon. 
I'm waiting for my first box of casting material to show up. I have been studing Master Burl 's words...to cast by....


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I use to be quick when I was younger. Now I'm just steadily sloooowwweeerrrrr.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I finished up the grab irons and added a brake wheel. Wheel is what I had. Have to put in the braces between the side walls and will be ready for paint.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OH, you got the old type brake wheels from USAT.. 
Hang in there , I'm going to try and cast some more modern ones .once I learn how.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Yes, My ol'buddy Fred Loveridge sent me a box of grab irons and brake wheels. Know they are not right but may have to work. I didn't know what brand they were either. Haven't glued them in yet and will hold off on glueing them in.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

This could work for steps. Wiper blade stainless steel strips. 
Will these accept the paint tho. Or could apply after painting and leave unpainted.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I got the braces installed between the side walls.


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## bull (Jan 28, 2008)

Good job Leon car came out looing real nice. Hopefully start building my own soon.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I gave the inside and outside of car a coat of Krylon primer last nite and coated the bottom this morning. How long should I wait to paint it the finish color?


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Krylon tends to dry really quickly so I'd say a day or so. For other paints like Scalecoat, Floquil, etc... I've had to wait up to 2 weeks before it fully dried.

Someone told me the smell test is a good one to use. If you can smell the paint it's not dry yet. 


Looks good in primer


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Matt, 
Thanks for the information. This is the first model I have done so all tips are welcome! 
The wife went to Omaha, Neb. this weekend, so had her pick me up another set of Aristo - 29100 trucks from "The House of Trains" hobby shop. I was one set short for my 3 cars. 
Also considering purchasing a new UP GP40 or a Dash-9 to pull my coal drag with. I can get a GP40 for $190 from Wholesale Trains. Looks like a Dash-9 is about $300. The 9 may be a little big for my layout which has LGB R3 turnouts on the cross overs from outside loop to inside loop just butted up to each other. Does anyone know if the Dash-9 will run OK on these crosovers. I know it would have to run slow thru them. I slow down everything when running thru them anyway. 
Leon


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

24 hours min.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I shot a coat of Krylon Brilliant Silver on tonite.


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Further on the Laser cut version, Today 20 ppl got laid off at the works where my friend does the job at. Its real slow there at the moment, so dont hold you breath. 

BTW that does look good Pete.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Rod, 
the local company that does our Laser cutting is really slow too. They are already down from 2 1/2 shifts to one and looking at further cut backs. We've been ordering january and i think we are now ordering February stock from them. Seems like a bad idea to me but I'm not privy to all the "negotiations" on this. they may be willing to cut stuff like this now that they are slow though? You're folks as well as the ones I know. LOL! 

Chas


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

what setting is your camera on, lighting???


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Does anyone know what the FLOQUIL paint color is for the brown on the end of the BNSF Bethgon car. Yes, I've changed my mind and going with this. 



















Since my wife bought me a Dash-9 BNSF Heritage I for X-Mas. These Dash-9's are really hard to find right now. Wanted the Heritage II but couldn't find one and St. Aubins in Las Vegas had a heritage I for $306 including shipping. THANK YOU HONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I give up on the pictures of the BNSF bethgon and the Dash-9. They show up on the preview but not in the post.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By leonpete on 12/15/2008 8:20 PM








Does anyone know what the FLOQUIL paint color is for the brown on the end of the BNSF Bethgon car. Yes, I've changed my mind and going with this. 



















Since my wife bought me a Dash-9 BNSF Heritage I for X-Mas. These Dash-9's are really hard to find right now. Wanted the Heritage II but couldn't find one and St. Aubins in Las Vegas had a heritage I for $306 including shipping. THANK YOU HONEY!!!!!!!!!!!! 











Leon, stop using special characters in the file names or learn to encode them so they'll work and you won't encounter the problem.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thank you Steve.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

woow Leon those cars above look great ,good job. rivets and all


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Not my cars, to detailed, just a sample picture. Looks like Floquil - Tuscan may be a close match for the end of the car. 
I tried printing decals of the BNSF with swoosh on Walthers Decal paper. They are more on the red side than orange. First one started out pretty orange but half way through turned more red color. I may still use them. Installed new ink cartiages before printing also. I used setting for glossy surface, I may try setting for transparency. They were nice and orange on plain paper.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Cool, going with BNSF









Like you say the brown may be closest to Floquil Tuscan. Either that or Boxcar Red or maybe even Southern Brown which is hard to tell from Tuscan. Best bet, if possible, is to go to a hobby shop that sells Floquil and see which looks the best to you as they tend to look a lot different in person then the online color swatches.


Here's a prototype image that shows the brown pretty well in the sun.

And for a neat added effect, don't forget the blue bearing caps. Every new logo BNSF Bethgon I've seen in person has them.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I got my new Dash-9 today, AWSOME!!! I had to take a peek at it before the wife got home from work. Now to decide on which FREE freight car to get from Aristo-craft on there SPECIAL Nov.-Dec. deal. Buy a locomotive and get a free freight car. Pay for shipping.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

This is just a test of decal size using plain paper printed lettering.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks good on the BNSF swoosh part. May want to go a little larger on the numbers/BNSF lettering.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Matt 
Yes the black letters need to be a little bigger. Stan is doing my decals and he has made them larger for me. Still working on the orange letters and black swoosh. 
Leon


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Good choice going with Stan. He made some caboose decals for me. Very nice, easy to apply, and I didn't spoil any


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Now that the holidays are over I can get back to work on my Bethgons. Did get the end painted today.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

I got one side of the decals put on tonite. My Mother has been sick and have spent most of my free time with her the last couple weeks. She is now home and recovering. She turns 90 the 23 of FEB.


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Turned out looking great


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Matt! 
I got most of the car done outside of some steps that I may add later. Even painted the end journals blue. Here are a few pictures on the layout and in a sunny spot on the sidewalk. 
















































Leon


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Thats a lovely job Leon. Whith out wishing to be wet blanket, check out the position of your trucks compared to this pic. You can see they are little further out in the picture. The bolster centre is about in line with the last upright stay. Still pretty impressive nonetheless. 

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=156589 

I'll get my coat and hat now.......


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Great Leon. 
BTY 
I still have not been able to mold brake wheels from the 100 ton hoppers yet.


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## mrh044 (Oct 11, 2008)

Great job!! 
What did you use for the reflective striping?


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Beautiful, Leon. Fantastic job. We sure does have some might fine modelers... We does. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

*I agree, great job Leon............







*


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Rod, Marty & Michael. 
Michael, I work at Tyson Foods Processing Plant and they use this yellow tape to make signs for several different things and stick it on walls, machinery, ect. This tape will hold up to high pressure hose washings, chemicals, and scrubbing for over 5 years. Comes in different widths. I cut it to the size I needed with a exacto knife. I asked for a small peice and they gave it to me. 
Leon


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks Stan & Nicholas. 
The decals look great Stan. 
I fell in love with these cars when Marty made the original post on building them. It looked like a good first time scratch build project for me to get some experience. It has been fun building these cars and a good winter project. Second car is ready for the paint shop. Just a note, I used Krylon brilliant silver for the first finish coat. It is not a good choice. It is a metallic paint so I repainted over it with "Touch'ntone" brand Aluminum all-purpose household spray paint. I used spray can Floquil / Tuscan for the end. I painted the rotating journal ends with a brush and used Krylon Satin / Oxford Blue spray paint for this. 
Leon


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Leon.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking car now that's painted and lettered. later RJD


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Took a few photos on the layout today of the BNSF Dash 9 and Bethgons.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Those really look nice How many do you plan on making ?


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job Leon, and for those who mailed me about releasing my CAD drawings, I have nt forgotten. I have not yet had time to change a couple of minor errors and I wont let them go until I am sure that the kit will slot together without hacking away at the slots.


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

I need to dig out my old Bachman cars and see about doing what Conrail did with their "coalporters". They simply rebuilt older cars with a bath tub style bottom instead of the chutes and made some other changes but why not do the same thing in large scale? As I recall at some point seeing someplace where somebody "updated" the old Bachman hoppers? No idea where I saw that now but as I recall they did a large bunch of them? 

Chas 

http://crcyc.railfan.net/crrs/gon/goncoal.html


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## wchasr (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Rod Hayward on 03/03/2009 1:01 AM
Nice job Leon, and for those who mailed me about releasing my CAD drawings, I have nt forgotten. I have not yet had time to change a couple of minor errors and I wont let them go until I am sure that the kit will slot together without hacking away at the slots. 





Awesome Rod!
I just was talking with the Laser "guy" here that deals with our vendor and it is very likely they will do some cutting for at a reasonable cost. 

Chas


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## Rod Hayward (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are the titchy versions 50 kato N cars pulled by 3 AC4400s and 3 70MACs going up the grade to the coal dump. The 3rd from the back is the fabulous barf-bonnet. 2 SD40-2s with an ethanol 30'000gal car consist wait for the 5mph train to clear. Gotta love those Katos for slow running.


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## leonpete (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks JJ and Rod. I want to make about 13 of these. I will have 4 when I get the one my brother made. He put rivets and alot more detail on his car. He wants to enter it in a model contest at a train show coming up. I will post a picture when he is done with it. The rest of the cars I want will be made in my spare time and next winter. This was a great winter project which I could work on in the basement. I will try to cut out all the main body parts this summer and get the main bodies assembled. Then finish what I can next winter.


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