# Circular Saw recommendation !!!



## richardson121 (Sep 26, 2017)

Looking to replace my old Craftsman. Trying to keep it under or close to $100. It'll be for home/general use, ripping plywood sheets will probably be the most taxing thing I do with it. Corded.

Looking at the:-

i) Hitachi C7SB2 $90 5yr warranty 10lbs case

ii) DEWALT DWE575 $119 3 yr warranty 9lbs

iii) Hitachi C7BMR $129 5yr warranty 10 lbs w/brake

iv) DEWALT DWE575SB $124 3 yr warranty 9lbs w/brake

How about the *SKILSAW SPT77WML-01*? 

If you're a Skil owner, would like to hear your experience with the extendable Skil durability and how they compare to other circular saws you've tried.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations!


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I have has a Skill worm drive, very heavy duty. Much more than you need, but it has held up well for many years. I recently picked up a Bosh battery saw and very happy with it so far.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Since there is a Milwaukee repair center near me and they have a 5 year warranty, it is what I buy. Tools will eventually break and getting them repaired quickly is what I like.


I will say the tools of the 50's are the best ones I own. All metal Porter-cable orbital sander is one. If you see these all metal tools in a yard sale, grab them quick!!


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## steamermeister (Feb 20, 2013)

I have a Mag 77 Skil Saw that was made when Bosch owned Skil (1996 to 2016). It'll cut nearly anything. I've cut 1" steel plate and concrete sidewalk slabs with mine and it's my choice for full depth cuts in wood (say you want to cut a 4x4 or a 6x6). Since 2016, Chervon (HK) Ltd., a power tool manufacturer based in Nanjing, China owns Skil and the reviews of the current Mag 77 (SPT77WML-01) are a bit mixed. Personally, if my Bosch era Mag 77 went missing and I had to buy a new circular saw today, I'd get a Makita Hypoid instead.

That said, you should think about what you'll be using it for as these gear train saws are probably overkill for most people.


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## grsman (Apr 24, 2012)

I have a DeWalt saw. It is a very good saw.
I have had it for several years and it has served me well.

 I would have to look up the model number.
It cost about $160.
 Tom


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## PINE RIDGE (Feb 1, 2014)

*saw*

I know it's a gamble, but have you looked on Craigslist, Facebook, Varagesale, or any of the online resell places? I took a chance on a pile of Dewalt battery powered tools for a $100. 2-batteries, circle saw, recip saw, drill. One battery was bad, but didn't care as I purchased it just for the drill. Everything else is a bonus.

Without breaking the bank on a new saw. Look at Harbor Freight. For occasional use it might do the trick. I have a buffer and sand blaster from HF and love both of them. This coming from a guy with a shop full of Snap On, Powermatic, Dewalt, Porter Cable, Milwaukee,,, 


Let us know what you end up with for a saw. Good Luck!!!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I have a Milwaukee Tiltloc handle with the blade on the left or near side,
What a difference! So much better than leaning over to see the cut.
I thought at first I'd be leery of the blade so close, but it's actually easier therefore safer to use. I prefer corded models as they always have full power.


I think you should look for the blade on the left near side ... then the brand.


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

You're kinda comparing apples and oranges; maybe peaches and nectarines (they're closer species.) 

1-4 are direct drive circular saws. The Skilsaw Mag 77 is a worm drive with the blade on the left looking just like Milwaukee above. A worm drive puts the motor weight behind the blade. By recommendation look around construction sites and probably 75%+ workers have Skilsaw. My experience is a worm drive (I switched to a Skilsaw years ago after a 2-3 circular saws) With blade on the right you're looking over the saw to see the blade cut and leaning cross-over your hand holding and guiding the saw cut. With blade on the left the motor is on the right you're watching the blade cut and nothing is in your line of sight, cutting is easier.

Worm drive is easier to control and gets a better cut. IF you're cutting a sheet of something (4x8 plywood) you can tip the sheet and use the weight of the saw to drive the cut vs pushing a circular saw trying to manage the motor torque. Much faster with not too much practice to get the hang of. Once practiced you can cut 2x6 or 8+ the same way, tip and cut. 

Most important by far, the BLADE. Pay good money for a really good blade that stays sharp. Buy a couple so you can switch them out and get the other sharpened. Makes any job easier and its safety value is unmatched. 

Make sure you keep the saw lubricated (worm drives us a gear lube). Clean off dust/dirt; keep the blade clean (free of pitch) and lube the blade before you start each session/work day.. Blade lube will help keep pitch for gumming up thee blade. Makes cutting a breeze even in hardwoods. Blade or cutting lube usually comes in a spray can and you need just minimal spray to do the job.

Ripping a board puts the most wear on a blade; a crosscut the least. MDF is the absolute worst for a blade. Plywood is both a crosscut and ripping because of the ways the layers are orientated. Too long to explain, lots of resources out there to explain.

Some people swear by circular saws but I go with the tool(s) pro's use. 

NEVER buy a used tool! You have no idea how it's been used or cared for - that's dangerous. "The most expensive tool you will ever buy is a cheap tool." 

My tip of the day, years, etc. Everyone will disagree with me. But I got physics on my side. 
Everyone else will tell you the blade should be showing just a little beyond the board. Much better alternatively, always have the blade at it's maximum depth when cutting; the most blade showing beyond the cut. Why, fewest teeth in contact with the wood while cutting. Teeth are at a closer to vertical chopping action to the wood cutting. Least length of time the teeth are actually cutting or in contact with the wood = least drag on the blade. The just poking through method the teeth are at a shallow angle = longer drag on the blade teeth AND the teeth not cutting (between the in and out of the cut) are causing drag on the blade and the saw and blade have to work harder. Most of all, if the wood tries to pinch the blade, if the blade just pokes through the pinch will grab the teeth and kickback or binding results which is dangerous. If the blade is all the way through the wood then the pinch has the thinner sheer metal to try and grab which is smooth and allows space between the blade and the wood so kickback or binding is dramatically limited, if it happens at all. IF on a table saw the blade would rise as much as possible above the wood. Long to explain but it's the physics of a power saw blade cutting action. Since one never knows what tensions are inside the wood and cutting can release these against the blade safe cutting technique is best.

Long to explain; easier to demonstrate. Hope it made some sense. Like I said, there now will be several comments that I'm wrong. It's still blade cutting physics. Long ago Forest Blades showed me and explained it. Maybe I was just young and impressionable. Apologies if this was just rambling - I do that.


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## jiayeis9 (May 16, 2020)

this is th best option


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Used/yard sale depends on the cost. I found a almost new ryobi type sawzall for only $5.00. I already had 2 batteries and a charge from a gift. Been 4 years and have really got my $$ worth from this unit. PS I do have a corded 35 year old Milwauke sawzall, but the royobi is handy in the back yard.


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