# Switch lubricant?



## noela (May 22, 2008)

I have been using graphite "dust" for lubricating my switches, but I have heard that this is something even better. I know that regular grease or teflon impregnated grease doesn't work to well as it tends to gum up.
Are there any suggestions on the best stuff to use, as well as where to get it?
Thank you.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd never use anything "wet" on a switch. 

Where/what were you lubricating on the switch? 

Where did you see a reference to something better? 

I'm interested too. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Hi Greg, 
Hope all is well with you. 
I wish I could remember where I saw the other material for lubricating switches. Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. I do recall that it was similar in composition to graphite, but more slippery, and less prone to being worn out or washed away. 
I lubricate the points, and graphite does work very well, but it doesn't seem to hold up under rain and/or snow to well. 
As an aside, we only need to lay another 120' of track and the layout will be done (the town scene will be next year's project), just a bit shy of 1900 feet. 
Thank you again for all your help in the past. 

Regards, 
Noel


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Powdered molybdenum is normally regarded as superior. There are some other more exotic compounds, usually with boron and beryllium, but they are WAY expensive. 

You can usually find moly mixed with graphite. 

My favorite is the graphite/moly mix from Hob-E-Lube... that's the only dry lube I use. 

But, this stuff can be washed away. The problem with anything that sticks, it can create more friction. If you are using it on the pivot points of the switch though opposite from the points, then you could use some "anti-sieze" (from auto parts store) which is usually graphite or moly or more often nickle in a high temp lithium grease, looks silvery, gets all over stuff and sticks like glue to the surface it's applied to... really helps keep corrosion and rust out. 


Regards, Greg


----------



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Again, thank you Greg.
For the pivot points, can you recommend a particular product? I started looking in auto stores, but was wondering if there might be a better source. Also, is there any problems with any of these attacking the plastic of the switches?

Noel


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I need to investigate anti-seize with plastic. I've never had any problems, but in reality, the pivot points move so little any heavy plastic-compatible grease would be fine. Your friction is not coming from there. 

May I ask why you are considering lubricating at all? Usually just keeping them clean is enough. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Good morning,
I am planning on lubricating because my environment (dust, dew, etc.) and the sheer number of switches (currently 31) put me in a position that I want to spend as little time doing maintenance as I can, and run/operate. I also want them to be as mechanically excellent as possible as I will be installing the Aristo-Craft R/C switch controls when they become available. I have noticed that a couple of the older switches did perform better after I lubed the pivot points, but I used a plastic compatible oil to do that. Like yourself, I constantly seek excellence (not perfection) and ask questions when I need to so I can eliminate the pitfalls that can occur. I really do appreciate all of the feedback I receive. I have already tested out one of the loops and the freight yard for proper mechanics, and with a few exceptions, they are ready to go (some filing here, and guard rail work there will take care of the minor glitches).
Coming up will be installation of the multiple power supplies for the layout (for those that want to run track power). Probably do that on a rainy day as most of the work will be done inside an out building. The town loop will be next year's project, and scenery will be added as we move along. Floating the track now, and will ballast as soon as I feel it is stable. Effectively, I will have 1900' of track on a long, skinny deck. Dressing it up will take time, but hey, I'm retired. Needless to say, if you're ever ion the neighborhood, c'mon down.

Noel


----------



## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

That Hob-E-Lube stuff is great! It's what I use.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Gotcha Noel! 

If I was in your situation and mind set, I think I would remove the pivot screws, squirt some of the Hob-E-Lube Moly grease into the threaded hole and reinstall... the extra grease around the hole should keep things moving and keep moisture out. 

On the areas where the rails slide back and forth on metal tabs (to transmit power), I'm not sure I would add anything except possibly graphite. Almost anything else will collect and add more friction. Now if you use the slow motion Aristo motors, they have a lot more torque, so you could use grease again, but I'm really thinking that this idea has more drawbacks in attracting and retaining dirt and grit, and moisture. 

Similarly, the throwbar pivot screws shoule be treated with removal. I would put a little grease in the threaded end of the switch point, and liberally grease the metal bushing where it pivots in the throwbar, then squirt grease into the inside of it. 

On Aristo switches, I have had instances of corrosion/seizing of the screw into the rail, and also of the bushing seizing in the throwbar. 

Well, at least that's what I do to my switches, but then again, I'm a little crazy. 

Regards, Greg


----------



## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

I've never heard of using lubicrants on outdoor swtiches. I would think that would be a no-no as just about anything you apply would end up collecting dust & dirt. I wish you good luck, but ask that you keep the forum informed of your findings positive or negative. 
Mark


----------



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Hi again Greg,
From the tenor of the stuff I've garnered, it looks as if Hob E Lub is going to be the way I go, now I just need to get some.
Regarding the slow motion motors, I figure that if I have smooth operation with the regular machines, it will make life easier for the remote machines, hence, less maintenance. I have had to replace some of the micro switches on older #6 turnouts due to problems with operation, but the new micro switches are waterproof and should solve that frog problem.
Thanks again for your help.

Noel


----------



## noela (May 22, 2008)

Hi Mark,
I have learned that any form of lubricant that is not a powder is a problem with switches, but the powdered graphite I have been using works well, just doesn't stick for a long period of time, but I haven't noticed any build up on the switches I have used it on. I need trouble free turnouts due to the nature of my layout, although if I just want to run, they are all set up so that they are not problematical. It will be when I have operating sessions that the need to be problem free will be most evident, as the yard, and the various sidings, etc. will need to be accessed smoothly. It looks as if I am going to do as Greg has suggested, and go with a moly lube, powdered and more "slippery" than just graphite. 
I have found Greg to be very helpful, and have used many of his suggestions in the past.

Noel


----------

