# Sagging turnout blades (LGB)



## Andrew_au (Jul 27, 2021)

One of my LGB R1 turnouts has a sagging turnout blade.

The first picture shows the blade in the "correct" position. I have manually raised it into place.










However, left to its own devices it sags and looks like this second picture:









This creates a couple of problems. The first and most obvious is that the train "bumps" as it connects with the fixed inner track. But I am also having connectivity issues - the train sometimes stalls when crossing at low speed, and I think it is because one inner wheel is on the insulated frog and the other is hovering above the track. (Trains usually cross from right to left)

I've investigated and there is a lot of free movement in the slider that moves the blades, and also between the fastener from the near (saggy) blade and the slider.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Is there a way to resolve it other than replacing the turnout? I see a slight tendency to this on one other turnout, but the rest are all working fine.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Your problem is the broken pseudo bolt/plates on the outer side near the EPL drive. I repair these by installing a small stainless screw on the bottom of the defective ties. I got these screws at the Denver show many years ago.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

After many years, mine sag too. It seems the rivets that hold the rails at the throw bar get sloppy and things sag. I usually install a piece of plastic under the throw bar to better keep it in place. But you have to keep it clean or it can add a lot of friction.

As for loss of power, the points get power from the mechanical contacts that touch and slide and corrode over time such that you loose continuity. The best (and eventually only) thing to do is to solder small jumper wires to the point rails from the stock rails, and I have done this on my 21 turnouts.


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## Andrew_au (Jul 27, 2021)

Dan Pierce said:


> Your problem is the broken pseudo bolt/plates on the outer side near the EPL drive. I repair these by installing a small stainless screw on the bottom of the defective ties. I got these screws at the Denver show many years ago.


Yes, looking at the turnout I can see that the last three sleepers are no longer fastened to the curved stock rail (clips are broken on both sides of the rail). Is the best solution glue or some screws? If screws, where is it best to fasten them? I think I would need to create holes in the existing plastic to do so which risks damaging stuff.

Alternatively, I think I can mostly solve the problem by making sure the sleepers are pushing firmly against the rails (and not floating as in the diagram above).


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

In that situation, I've fitted a piece of wood to fit in the void space in the plastic under the ties and use small screws into those. But sometimes the ends of the ties break off.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I drill a small hole through the oplastic and into the brass reai and then install the small stainless screw.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

All great advice.

i too am of the kind that repairs instead of replacing.

but, if you use the turnout,
buy a new one


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