# Layout Design



## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Some suggestions please.

So I've been playing around with designing a small layout that will be indoor floor based, until I can get moved into the new house. Right now I'm limited to probably 6' x 10'. I came up with the below, in a way I like it, but then in a way it seems too busy. Right now I'm stuck using R1's, which I don't like. So suggestions?










Thanks,

Steve


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

LGB R2 track could be a little bit better, but no switches match that curve as it is between 4 and 6 foot diameter.
You can bend flex track to a 5.5 foot diameter for the outer loop to fit in the 6 foot area, but this would leave no room for straights.

Remember that the track is center to center measurements, so 6 foot area needs curves to fit in a shorter space!!.

R1 (4 foot diameter curves ) will over hang on a sheet of 4x8 plywood.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

TrainLine make an R2 switch.

Andrew


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## Tom Parkins (Jan 2, 2008)

It's way too busy. Take out those center "loops". leave room for structures and a little scenery. Plus switches aren't cheap. Depending if you are buying new or used, you have about $400-$500 just in switches. Tight switches are not the smoothest things and more switches = more opportunity for derailments. 

Keep it simple. Get the trains running. Discover what aspects bring you pleasure. You can always add more later.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

*thx*



Dan Pierce said:


> LGB R2 track could be a little bit better, but no switches match that curve as it is between 4 and 6 foot diameter.
> You can bend flex track to a 5.5 foot diameter for the outer loop to fit in the 6 foot area, but this would leave no room for straights.
> 
> Remember that the track is center to center measurements, so 6 foot area needs curves to fit in a shorter space!!.
> ...


Thanks for all the info!!! I think I'll trim it down, I don't really like using R1.. But it's what came in the set, and I don't like to waste anything lol

Steve


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

*Thanks!*



Tom Parkins said:


> It's way too busy. Take out those center "loops". leave room for structures and a little scenery. Plus switches aren't cheap. Depending if you are buying new or used, you have about $400-$500 just in switches. Tight switches are not the smoothest things and more switches = more opportunity for derailments.
> 
> Keep it simple. Get the trains running. Discover what aspects bring you pleasure. You can always add more later.


Yeah that's what I thought.. I may look into doing another one on my day off. I've already bought 6 new R1 switches... so too late on that one.

Once I get moved I'll have a large yard to play in, and the possibilities are endless. Only thing is, I'll be starting with square one. I know they talk about raising the layout from ground level, which means I'd have to do something like that. I need to start getting some books. Actually none of it's cheap lol. I coughed a few times when I saw prices of just the buildings and figures. lol

Thanks again,

Steve


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Wish I could help but my photo archive went *poof* last week. I have a neat compact 4'6" x 6'6" layout that might be of help. It could be adapted to R2 curves. Dont be afraid of R1s, my indoor harbor switching layout is entirely R1.

Hope the landlords can recover my pics. we'll see.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

*Aww*



vsmith said:


> Wish I could help but my photo archive went *poof* last week. I have a neat compact 4'6" x 6'6" layout that might be of help. It could be adapted to R2 curves. Dont be afraid of R1s, my indoor harbor switching layout is entirely R1.
> 
> Hope the landlords can recover my pics. we'll see.


Oh man.. I would love to see them!!! Get on them right now.. get them recovered!!!

Steve


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## SophieB (Nov 22, 2015)

Your track design is way too crowded, even by my husband's and my standards. We use R1 curves all the time for show layouts, you can get more track in the same area, but as has been mentioned you need to leave a bit of room for the scenery and buildings. With 4' curves you're not going to be running your larger engines and cars, but we have plenty of variety in 0-4-0 engines and two axle cars.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

2poor4Gscale said:


> Yeah that's what I thought.. I may look into doing another one on my day off. I've already bought 6 new R1 switches... so too late on that one.


You can use the switches for something else. Build a set of sidings, or a switching puzzle and do switching, or use them to park rolling stock. I have a couple places on my outdoor layout where the sidings use R1 switches. After all, those sidings are short (none more than 8 feet long) and the little two-axle locos running down them are going very slow.

I agree that the above layout is a little too busy. You might look here (http://www.thortrains.net/marx/kdlayg1.html) for other layout ideas.


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

well, imho, R1 are fine with a stainz or short loco and 2 axel cars.

R2 is much nicer for a mogul, etc.probably the best small radius , generally speaking.

I like the loop within the loop, provided you have two locos. this makes running 2 at once fun.

I think, however, you may find that a single loop will be what you ultimately enjoy, for simplicity, and, as mentioned, decorative buildings, if any. 

I agree, in any event, lose the inner most loop.

it is helpful to have manual switches close to you for ease of manual operation. that way you make use of them.

if manual, I would suggest making a LH and Rh cross over to the inner loop , in one place, one switch after the other. this will allow you to sit and have ease of reach in controlling things.

passing tracks /sidings are useful if you intend to park another train, a consist or a loco with and on/off switch. 

Play with the configuration a bit with an adult beverage or three and some pleasant music while you configure and see what you like. IMHO it depends if you're a sit back and watch guy, like me (most of the time) , or, if you really want hands on operation.

If the former, in the long run, the loop will please you. If the latter, some sidings etc.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Success, reloaded some images to a new hosting site.

Here is my indoor harbor layout Gotham Transfer, based on NYC freight terminal lines, where everything comes in and out on barge, which acts as my transfer cassette.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

A couple studies for other self contained layouts using all R1 curves also based on a real NYC freight terminal


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

This was the small 4 x 6 layout my first large scale layout ever. 










and this is a more recent idea for a portable layout, with both layouts most of whats important is the buildings and scenery in between the tracks.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

*awesome*



vsmith said:


> Success, reloaded some images to a new hosting site.
> 
> Here is my indoor harbor layout Gotham Transfer, based on NYC freight terminal lines, where everything comes in and out on barge, which acts as my transfer cassette.


Do you have pictures of this.. this looks awesome!!

Thanks for the ideas!

Steve


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Some pics, but they got vaporized in the above mentioned event. It never got beyond the track stage when I had to embargo detail work on the layout until I can clear out the garage again.

I dont know if I have any pics of the layout in the same file I had these plans in, I'll double check


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Cool designs Vic.

Echoing what Dan said, you might be able to design a loop around one of the "timesaver" or other switching-puzzle kinds of layouts, just to give you some fun with operations.

http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/shunting-puzzles.html

Off topic, but this is a fun site for basic practice, with each level getting a little more difficult.

http://armorgames.com/play/7324/railroad-shunting-puzzle


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## Zoemacrossan (Apr 17, 2017)

I am waiting to see the final design.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Zoemacrossan said:


> I am waiting to see the final design.


It'll be a while, still waiting to move, plus not sure if it's going indoor or outdoor. As of now, I have 4 loco's and working on a 5th, tons of cars both freight and passenger cars, plus a few buildings. So... I will most likely use a larger radius curve though.

Steve


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## Tomahawk & Western RR (Sep 22, 2015)

2poor4Gscale said:


> It'll be a while, still waiting to move, plus not sure if it's going indoor or outdoor. As of now, I have 4 loco's and working on a 5th, tons of cars both freight and passenger cars, plus a few buildings. So... I will most likely use a larger radius curve though.
> 
> Steve


steve, when you getting that accucraft 4-4-0 

i


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Here is my take on small layouts. Designed for small 4 coupled live steam and battery powered engines. Pictured is my Roundhouse Super Sammie, steaming around the layout for the first time. Still lots to do with a mountain to create a scenery break and then back filling with top soil for live plants. Mike


Here is the final track plan, I am short a few R1 curves and 1 LH turnout for the moment.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

If the link works...

http://s1254.photobucket.com/user/Thinker102/library/?sort=3&page=1

A plan for a 12x12 space I came up with a few years ago. ('spare bedroom size.') Intended for newcomers to 'G' who had a couple starter sets and a few extra pieces of track to play with. It allows for36 feet of mainline track plus room for some scenery in a confined space. Room size depending, stub sidings or small freight yards could be wedged along the walls, possibly even an outer 'around the room' loop.

The 'inner loop' of my current layout (under construction) is a variant of this, using R2 curves and 90 degree crossovers instead of 30 degree crossovers - I get some straight stretches in that way.


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

Mike Toney said:


> Here is my take on small layouts. Designed for small 4 coupled live steam and battery powered engines. Pictured is my Roundhouse Super Sammie, steaming around the layout for the first time. Still lots to do with a mountain to create a scenery break and then back filling with top soil for live plants. Mike
> 
> 
> Here is the final track plan, I am short a few R1 curves and 1 LH turnout for the moment.


Now that's something different.. Never seen a layout like that one! Interesting!


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## 2poor4Gscale (Oct 29, 2016)

ThinkerT said:


> If the link works...
> 
> http://s1254.photobucket.com/user/Thinker102/library/?sort=3&page=1
> 
> ...


Now this is interesting.. I know when I go to do mine, I will not be using R1.. Maybe R3 or R5.. I like the double 8... lol


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

The current version, with 90 degree crossovers and 5 foot diameter curves, occupies a table 17 feet long that ranges from 6 - 9 feet wide, with 2 foot wide aisles on three sides (the last side is against a wall.) Most of the outer loop is on narrow tables or shelves ranging from 1 - 3 feet in width. (Total space is 15.5 x 27 feet). 

A version of the current plan with 8 foot diameter track would require a table ranging from 9 - 13 feet wide by a minimum of 17 feet long (I was able to elongate mine). It would also cause 'reach' issues in a few places (I barely dodged that.) Tack in a 1 foot wide outer loop on shelves around the room with 2 foot walkways, and the minimum space become 19 x 23 - small garage or basement size.


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