# LGB 21232 locomotive



## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

I purchased this unit at a train show. It does not smoke and the front light does not work, the bulb is good. The reverse light does work as does the sound system. Also, it does not go very fast. Can anyone give me some thoughts on how to repairs?
Thank you,
Alan


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Smoke units burn out and they can easily be replaced. There are dealers who handle LGB parts. Raindeer pass garden railroad supply and Train-Li come to mind. A google search should come up with contact information. 

It the bulb works, you must have a broken wire somewhere. You will probably have to disassemble the engine to find it. First check to see if both wires coming into the socket are firmly connected.

As to slow running, what power supply are you using? If you are using a power supply from a smaller scale, HO, N, or Z, you might not be getting enough voltage. Also check to see if the wheels are clean.

Make contact with a local "G" gauge club or group. Someone in that group may be able to help help you disassemble the engine if necessary.

Chuck


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

http://www.champex-linden.de/download_lgb_explosionszeichnungen/21232p-1.pdf

Andrew


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

*21232*

Chuck: Thank you for your reply. I have disassembled the engine and found that the one of the connectors for the bulb was detached so that fixed that problem. I have a pretty good size transformer that shows my voltage to the track is good. Also, the smoke generator works for a minute and then quits. The voltage on the board is not holding steady but there is voltage so it is probably the generator. I think I solved the speed problem. The drive gear is worn. Do you know how to remove it?
Alan


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

If it is like my LGB mogul remove the the entire motor block, drive wheels and all. Then remove the top of the motor block. Now you should be able lift out the motor. There are two idler gears in the block below the motor. They connect the worm gear on the motor to the gear on the axle. You can now lift out the idler gears. Inspect them carefully, the teeth should be flat across the top. If they are concave, you have excessive wear and need to replace them.

Either of the venters I mentioned earlier should have replacements. 

I have several LGB MOGULS and the drive train is a weak link. I have replaced a number of idler gears over the years. Adding weight, which in did, and pulling too many cars, also guilty. Leads to damage of the gear. After removing the extra weight and pulling shorter trains. I haven't had to replace a gear.

Chuck


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

I got all of that but the gears do not lift out. Seems like I have to spread the sides even though they sit in a cradle. The axles protrude through openings in the sides, one not as much as the other.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Can you see if the gear teeth are straight or grooved across the top. Yours is a newer model perhaps there is a different assembly mine just lifted out.
Chuck


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Yes I can. Just thinking about it I wonder if I have to tap out the axel.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Here is a link to a service manual for your locomotive:

http://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/21232p-1.pdf

Even though your engine has only two powered axles, it looks as if your engine has an idler gear arrangement similar to the one in the Mogul.

Here is a picture of my motor block, less the motor looking down from the top.

The idler gears are on the immediate left and right of the black rectangle in the center. The lighter gears are on the driver axle.










Close up of one of the idler gears. Note that you can see the axle holding the gear extending from the gear to the edge of the frame. It is held in place by a slot on the inside of the frame. There is a small lip on each side of the slot to hold the axle in place. I had to grab the axle with a pair of needle nosed pliers to remove it from the slots.










Here is a picture of the removed idler gear and axle. The gear easily slides on and off the axle and up and down so the smaller gear can be set on the driver axle gear.









It is the dark, greasy, gear that engages with the worm gear on the motor. Note that the on either side of the dark gear you can see that the tooth is straight across. If it is concave it needs to be replaced.

Chuck

PS: Who made your power supply, make and model number please? Can you measure the voltage on the track when your power supply is at full voltage? If you don't have a multimeter, I recommend getting one. They are very useful and not very expensive, many hardware stores carry them as well as RadioShack.


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you. By any chance do you have a parts list? Would you know how to get the drive gear out of the body?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

No parts list. If you need a part, you could circle the item on the proper page in the link I posted and send it in with the order. Or when you talk with the vendor, have them look at the PDF while you are talking to them. I do not recommend ordering parts, or anything else from a vendors web site. You need to know if it is in stock. You don't want to wait until he gets it and then sends it off.

By drive gear do you mean the gear on the driver axle? If that is what you are asking about, you can access that axle by removing the bottom plate. To remove it you will have to take off the drive rods. Not recommended as you will then have to quarter the wheels on reassembly. I have never heard of problems with the gear on the driver axle.

Chuck


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Tech 3 Power Command 9500. The information you sent is great but your pictures do not match what I have. By any chance can you tell me where I can get a parts list. The schmatics are great.
Alan


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Sorry, I crossed my own emails. The gear I am talking about ithe one that is rotated directly by the motor. It is mounted on an axle that runs across the housing and sits on two cradles and goes through the holes on either side of the housing. I figure that if the gear is a separate part from the axle I need to tap the axle out the side of the motor housing.
Alan


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry, but I don't have a parts list. The pictures won't exactly match. You have a 2-4-0, my engine is 2-6-0. As far as I can tell from the PDF I posted, the drive mechanism is similar. 

Chuck


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

After staring at the schematic a few more times, the gear is part number 45 and is separate from the axle which is number 44. Leads me to believe that I have to tap it out one side.
Alan


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

That is my guess. Looking at the schematic closer, I think that you may need to access it from the bottom rather than the top. It may be necessary to lift out the drive wheels to get at the gear. I don't see any holes in the motor block that would permit you to tap out the axle. It should come out with a pair of pliers. The gear will then easily slide off (should).

Chuck


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

The rotating gears axles just push out from one side. Find the appropriate sized screwdriver or whatever and just push it on threw. I kinda of recall that one side or the latter is easier to push the axle threw the motor block, (maybe wrong herein). 

The aforementioned gears are readily available. Make sure the axle gears are in good shape too.

Michael


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Michael, that makes sense. They would, should, have designed it so you wouldn't need to remove the drivers. The hole doesn't show on the schematic, so it must be on the opposite side.

Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

To remove the idler gear on the 2-4-0 motor block you need to push out the axle pin as it goes through the block. Moguls and F7's do not go through the block!!
I have done this from the bottom of the block, no need to dissamble the whole engine!!

The F7 and mogul need the top plate removed, the 2-4-0 does not.


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## askfl7 (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you all. Have a nice Thanksgiving.
Alan


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