# LGB Train under tree slows down (copper like dust on track after 1 hour)



## rmillerjr10 (1 mo ago)

LGB 72545 Christmas Train (Blue)

Hello,
I just bought this semi-used (like new) train. I am at my wits end trying to figure out the problem. I run the train in a circle and on my LGB 5003 between 1&2 (25-50%). I have cleaned the tracks over and over. No matter what I do, after about 1 hour, the train slows down because the track is so dirty. If I wipe my finger on the track, there is a copper/black colored, metallic looking dust. I've cleaned the wheels extensively. I tried some NO-OX and that seemed to help at first, but after about 2 hours, then train began to slow down again. What I did notice is that when I cleaned the engine, I connected the transformer to the bottom of the train and ran the wheels to clean them with q-tips. The wheels came clean but the inside, where the brushes meet the inside of the wheels, always blacked the qtips. Is this copperlike-dust coming from the brushes and ending up on the track? Also, after I do clean everything... it runs fine again. I've even cleaned while running the train and the areas of track that I do clean, the train runs normal again, until the dust build up happens again. I had a similar set growing up as a kid, and never had this problem. Ugh, I am pulling out my hair trying to figure out the problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bobby


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## rmillerjr10 (1 mo ago)

Also, I've upgraded the 2 passenger cars to ball-bearing wheels. They are perfect and spin fine. I replaced them thinking it was the plastic wheels at first.


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## Jim Agnew (Jan 2, 2008)

On single axle cars, the last axle will not straighten out after exiting a curved section. This causes the wheels to scrape the rail. What your seeing is fine particles of brass. You can minimize this by adding a few drops of transmission fluid on the railhead. The black gunk is due to electrical arcing and cannot be eliminated.
if you’re track is on carpeting, you need to protect it from the gunk with a sacrificial cloth. it’s impossible to remove from the carpeting.


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## rmillerjr10 (1 mo ago)

I understand that arcing will happen a bit, but should this happen this much after 1 hour? It's a lot. Also wouldn't this happen more on one rail... rather than both? It's a complete circle. Also, I had a very similar train growing up, never had this problem. After one hour of use, if I take my hand and place it on the track, I have very dark lines on my hand without a wiping action.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Exactly, oxidized brass (from arcing) is black believe it or not , I agree ATF would probably help with the acting/ black dust You need "conductalube" for the brushes the cars may want the swiveling axles locked, might Investigate that. You have not mentioned curve diameter or if any pollutants in air


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Check the wheel gauge. Maybe it's a bit wide causing undue friction. You may also want to check the track gauge which could be a bit narrow..


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

As I recall, LGB gauge their wheelsets by having the wheels moulded in one piece with the extension to the wheel's centre. this means that whatever the LGB gauge setting actually is, it cannot vary. The steel axle passes through the middle, of course, and retains the spacing in an immovable fashion.

Similarly, if you are using LGB track, remember that it was* designed *to be run indoors as well as outdoors, notwithstanding the mess it can make of your carpets.


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## rmillerjr10 (1 mo ago)

So from what I am being told here, it seems the arcing would be occurring from the wheels itself. Couple of questions... 1- would installing a capacitor inside the engine help remove electrical arcing? or 2 - what if I removed the 4 brushes from the wheel pickups and just ran on the shoe pickups? Has anyone tried either to help solve the arcing/oxidation?


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## piercedandan (9 mo ago)

Best way to reduce arcing would be to add power pickups to the first car behind the engine. I do this and get much better running of engines. LGB Moguls have engine and tender power pickups. Exception is the oil tender Same one on the 2-4-0) which does not have pickups but one can be added to the rear truck.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Actually a good way is to put a power resistor in series with the motor, which reduces the inrush current. A common technique documented way back by George Schreyer. If you have not read his website, it is really fundamental knowledge.


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