# Cheap RC Bell & Whistle Triggers?



## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

I have a few sound systems that I am happy to run under regular (analog) track power. The only thing I would like to have might be a remote (RC) bell and whistle trigger. This would be nothing more than a momentary on/off switch with two channels (such as some cheap RC toys probably have).

The receiver with the two on/off switch contacts would be in the tender with the sound board and the remote would be by the throttle or remote control (such as the old Train Engineer).

A couple of different units with different RC frequencies would be nice.

Does anyone have or know of such units?

I know there are some such units available with switch (turnout) controls etc. but I'm looking for something simpler and cheaper.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Jerry - Just Google "RC Switch". Here is one ... 2 Channel RC Switch. This along with a cheap 75 MHZ 2 stick radio is all you need. 

But if you are going to go to all that trouble, why not get a complete control system to go with for another couple of bucks.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Del. 
The way I read it, Jerry wants to use an R/C switch that will work with a TE or something similar.


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ram electronics makes exactly this device using a sort of key fob for control . 2 channels, one latches for bell, one momentary. Works ok, I have some around here somewhere. 

Jonathan/EMw


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Del Tapparo on 12 Sep 2010 09:13 PM 
Jerry - Just Google "RC Switch". Here is one ... 2 Channel RC Switch. This along with a cheap 75 MHZ 2 stick radio is all you need. 

But if you are going to go to all that trouble, why not get a complete control system to go with for another couple of bucks. 



Del,

I would not know how to put a kit together out of pieces. I would need something like a key fob with two buttons sort of package.

My idea would be to have something that I could use:

1. with track power using a manual throttle as a substitute for track magnets. If all I want to activate is the bell and whistle the TE is larger and bulkier than necessary.
2. with a regular 5470 Train Engineer (not Revolution) as a smaller and/or less expensive alternative to the 5474.
3. with a Revolution where the Revolution does not work with the bell and whistle such as old PH Hobbies sound units.

Actually one option would be if I could find a way to wire the track like O Gauge Lionel and MTH where I could have a couple of buttons by the power supply and just press the button for the bell or whistle and send the signal through the tracks to the on board switches (but without needing DCC or DCS). 
The truth is that I don't know exactly what I want because I have several different approaches that I can think of that could work. I just don't know what is available, what it can do and how much it would cost.


Ultimately it would be a question of size, price and capability that would determine if it is practical or not.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By K27_463 on 12 Sep 2010 10:35 PM 
Ram electronics makes exactly this device using a sort of key fob for control . 2 channels, one latches for bell, one momentary. Works ok, I have some around here somewhere. 

Jonathan/EMw 

Hi Jonathan,

I looked at Ram Electronics but did not find what you were describing. Can you point me in the right direction?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/

Thanks,

Jerry


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Jerrys RR on 13 Sep 2010 07:00 AM 
Posted By Del Tapparo on 12 Sep 2010 09:13 PM 
Jerry - Just Google "RC Switch". Here is one ... 2 Channel RC Switch. This along with a cheap 75 MHZ 2 stick radio is all you need. 

But if you are going to go to all that trouble, why not get a complete control system to go with for another couple of bucks. 



Del,

I would not know how to put a kit together out of pieces. I would need something like a key fob with two buttons sort of package.

My idea would be to have something that I could use:

1. with track power using a manual throttle as a substitute for track magnets. If all I want to activate is the bell and whistle the TE is larger and bulkier than necessary.
2. with a regular 5470 Train Engineer (not Revolution) as a smaller and/or less expensive alternative to the 5474.
3. with a Revolution where the Revolution does not work with the bell and whistle such as old PH Hobbies sound units.

Actually one option would be if I could find a way to wire the track like O Gauge Lionel and MTH where I could have a couple of buttons by the power supply and just press the button for the bell or whistle and send the signal through the tracks to the on board switches (but without needing DCC or DCS). 
The truth is that I don't know exactly what I want because I have several different approaches that I can think of that could work. I just don't know what is available, what it can do and how much it would cost.


Ultimately it would be a question of size, price and capability that would determine if it is practical or not.

Thanks,

Jerry
Jerry - the RC devices that this company sells on eBay might fit your needs.

eBay Store

Specifically this item is what I would recommend. It is a two channel transmitter with two relays on a board on the receiver.

Two Relay Unit 

Note that the transmitter buttons toggle the relays on and off. 


I have used a number of their devices and they work well.

dave


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## K27_463 (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, that is the wrong company. Do not know them. try this url. 

http://www.ramrcandramtrack.com/ 

Jonathan


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, 

I have a loco that came secondhand with a sound board. I added the Aristo TE 'accessory' controller to the tender and now I can trigger the bell and whistle using the extra buttons on my old TE transmitter. 

I appreciate you don't already have a TE controlling the train, but I think you may be able to get a used original TE transmitter and an accessory controller quite cheaply.


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## jmill24 (Jan 11, 2008)

Jerry, the old TE auxillary reciever is not much cheaper than a REVO reciever. $58 versus $75. If you buy the REVO in the six pack, then they are $62. I use the REVO as a sound trigger in a trailing car and then MU it to the REVO that is being used as a Track Side controller, works great. Only one radio system..................Jim


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By dbodnar on 13 Sep 2010 07:07 AM 
Specifically this item is what I would recommend. It is a two channel transmitter with two relays on a board on the receiver.

Two Relay Unit 

Note that the transmitter buttons toggle the relays on and off. 


I have used a number of their devices and they work well. 


Thanks for posting that link, Dave. I've seen a number of these on Ebay and wondered if they would work for just that purpose. Looks good... 

Here's a couple of links to additional items.. 

Two Channel 5 volt System


2 Channel 12 volt System

4 Channel 12 volt system

6 Channel system

Jim.... You have a very valid point using the REVOLUTION receiver as a trigger device. And it has 6 button control features.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Too bad you aren't running DCC/MTS, then you could buy a 4 function decoder (4 triggers) for about $14 ..... significantly cheaper than the Revolution or any other solution... that would seem commensurate with an inexpensive sound system. 

Greg


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## rreiffer (Jan 14, 2009)

All,


I have purchased the 12 channel versions of these and they work very well. (I use them to turn on the lights of my village one house at a time!). 


Here is a link to one of the providers of them:


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-CH-RF-Wireles...2ea9e482cb
They support latch and momentray contact and work up to about 600'. 

The biggest thing is that you need to feed the board (that runs the relay's) with a constant 12V, DC to make it work. Batteries are best for this, especially if you have rail power. 2 - 9V batteries in series with a zener diode feeding it makes a cheap voltage source. 

If you need more distance than that, I am jealous.


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Thanks for all the various responses. Because there are so many different responses it will take me awhile to work my way through them.

I should explain that I have a variety of potential applications each of which is somewhat different from the others. I should also mention that I do have both regular Aristo-Craft Train Engineers and Mini-Accessory Receivers and Revolutions and MTS/DCC so I may end up picking and choosing a variety of the options offered.

A few examples are:

1. An Accucraft K-4 with Phoenix 2K2 sound (what prompted me to post this topic). I am unwilling to consider taking the loco apart to change it from track power to anything else but my current plan is to put an Aristo 55474 Mini Accessory Receiver in it (once I am satisfied it is compatible with the Phoenix 2K2) which will let me run it with a manual throttle or with a 5470 Train Engineer. For whatever reasons whoever installed the 2K2 did not mount reed switches on it and the layout I will be running the K-4 on most will probably be cleaned with a LGB Track Cleaning Block which hits the top of LGB Track magnets. 
2. 3. USA Hudson and Big Boy may also fit into this category in that they too have 2K2 sound systems and will also be run on track power either with a throttle and or with a regular Train Engineer. If I can get to the sound system in the tender I may do so and put something in them just for remote bell and whistle activation.


4. A USA GP-38 with a Revolution and an old Aristo/PH Hobbies sound system. I cannot use the Revolution to activate the bell and whistle of the PH Hobbies board as I need a system that will work with two wires for the bell and two wires for the horn (no common lead). This may also be true of the 2K2.

5. In some cases I might be tempted to try to power a display loco or even one on a layout with track power but to put a MTS/DCC signal on the rails if that would give me a cheap and easy way to activate a bell and whistle. 
This topic has already produced more options than I had thought of so I will have to tackle it one loco at a time. The first project will be the K-4. If the CRE-55474 will work with the 2K2 that will resolve one loco for me. I went to Radio Shack this morning so at least now I have the jacks to power the CRE-55474's.

Many Thanks for all of the responses. It may take me awhile to get around to all of them as I will have to pick and choose one loco at a time.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can use the Revolution smoke boards to power relays, those will give you your 2 wires to your PH Hobbies (could probably be done with optoisloators, but let's keep the KISS principle here) 

Have youused the 55474's before? They have limitations and eccentricities to them... I suggest outputs D & E... I have some information on my site that might be helpful:

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai.../aristo-rc* 


I also have on that page a link to George Schreyer's site which has more nuts and bolts in depth information.

You should be able to use them.. if they are working well... I had to retune a number of the ones I used...

Regards, Greg


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 13 Sep 2010 12:43 PM 
Too bad you aren't running DCC/MTS, then you could buy a 4 function decoder (4 triggers) for about $14 ..... significantly cheaper than the Revolution or any other solution... that would seem commensurate with an inexpensive sound system. 

Greg 



Hi Greg,

This got me thinking (always potentially dangerous)...

I phoned Phoenix about using the Aristo Accessory Receiver with the 2K2 and in the process found that the 2K2 has a decoder built into it.

Now I am wondering if there is any reason why I could not power the Accucraft K-4 via a LGB Central Station to put the MTS/DCC signal onto the rails and then use one MTS Remote set to Loco 0 to run the K-4 forward and reverse and use a 2nd MTS remote set to Loco 3 to activate the bell and whistle of the 2K2 with a net cost of Zero (since I already own the components) and have analog loco control with MTS/DCC bell and whistle control.

Is there any reason this would not work other than potential MTS/DCC buzzing of the K-4 motor?

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Jerrys RR on 13 Sep 2010 02:20 PM 
Now I am wondering if there is any reason why I could not power the Accucraft K-4 via a LGB Central Station to put the MTS/DCC signal onto the rails and then use one MTS Remote set to Loco 0 to run the K-4 forward and reverse and use a 2nd MTS remote set to Loco 3 to activate the bell and whistle of the 2K2 with a net cost of Zero (since I already own the components) and have analog loco control with MTS/DCC bell and whistle control.

Is there any reason this would not work other than potential MTS/DCC buzzing of the K-4 motor?

Thanks,

Jerry


After I posted this it occurred to me that I should be able to program the Phoenix 2K2 to Loco 0 and run the loco via MTS without a decoder and still be able to activate the bell and whistle of the 2K2 board via a MTS signal to the 2K2's decoder. 

That said I may be able to do the same with other analog locos using the $14 decoders Greg mentioned (with other sound systems that do not have decoders).

I have not done this yet but eventually I intend to try it.

For now the first project is to put a Aristo CRE-55474 into the K-4 and then perhaps to put my other CRE-55474 into the USA Hudson (if I can do it without much difficulty).

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The "loco" 0 comes from the Command station, not the decoder... it allows you to run a DC loco on the DCC track, by using address zero, which really is a way to force the DCC system to put something close to DC on the rails. 

You have no DCC command capability. Now, I could be missing something that the MTS system does, since I don't own one. 

You also cannot program address 0 into a DCC decoder, at least not in my experience. 

I would sure look into adding a decoder to that loco, like a $50 one. You could set it up to run on DC and DCC, just like your Phoenix.. 

Anyway, have fun Jerry! 

Greg 

p.s. I guess you will not be running the K-4 and the Hudson at the same time...


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Hi Greg,

I don't know a lot about MTS or DCC so I would not be surprised if I cannot program the 2K2 to Loco 0.

My first thought was to put an Aristo 5474 into the K-4 and into the Hudson but so far I have not been able to get the 5474's to work with the 2K2 in the K-4. My 5474's may have stuck relays (if that is possible) since they sat on a shelf for many years unused.

I can get the bell to ring (with either of my 5474's) via the Train Engineer but not the whistle.

I doubt that I will ever run both the K-4 and the Hudson at the same time but if I did they would be on different mainlines controlled by different throttles or different Train Engineers. Although I may be willing to take a tender apart if need be to install a 5474 I would not be willing to take a loco apart to put a decoder in it and from my perspective I would not gain anything with MTS or DCC since I am unlikely to let anyone else run these expensive toys.

The K-4 and Hudson will remain on track power and not get a Revolution installed for the same reason I would not put a decoder in them - I don't want to risk taking the loco apart - and for me a plain Train Engineer works as well with these locos as a Revolution or decoder would.

Occasionally I will put a single decoder somewhere such as in my LGB coaches (to be able to dim or turn the lights off to stay under the MTS 5 amp limit).

Now that I have the K-4 the Hudson will probably be used much less often - because the K-4 was much less expensive.

Thanks for the info on the decoders.

Jerry


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't know whether or not the P2k2 can be programmed to 0 DCC address or not, but, I do know the P5 and P8 can both be programmed to 0 DCC address. 
That was advised by Phoenix when the Phoenix P5 was creating backfeed problems with the RCS R/C system. Doing so cured the problem. That and disabling all the DCC functions.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Hi Greg,

I don't know a lot about MTS or DCC so I would not be surprised if I cannot program the 2K2 to Loco 0.
>>> There is some real confusion here... there is no such thing as decoder address 0... trying to talk to address 0 invokes "DC" output (but not pure DC) by the COMMAND STATION. Tony has slightly confused the issue... on the Phoenix, setting it's address to 0 turns off all recognition of DCC commands. You were thinking of exactly what I said before, that some COMMAND STATIONS can use "address 0" to put DC on the rails, to be used by a DC loco. Some systems still do this, others have abandoned it. It was popular a while ago, but it really does not work well... 



My first thought was to put an Aristo 5474 into the K-4 and into the Hudson but so far I have not been able to get the 5474's to work with the 2K2 in the K-4. My 5474's may have stuck relays (if that is possible) since they sat on a shelf for many years unused.
>>> you should be able to hear the relays... but there's most likely more to your problem below... 


I can get the bell to ring (with either of my 5474's) via the Train Engineer but not the whistle.
>>> It would help to know which output you are using on the 55474, because they are not all the same... 


I doubt that I will ever run both the K-4 and the Hudson at the same time but if I did they would be on different mainlines controlled by different throttles or different Train Engineers.
>>>> WHOOPS... this is why I gave you the "hint"... the 55474's only work on freq 0, channel 0... sometimes you can get one to work on a different channel or different frequency, but most times not... when you do get them programmed, the range is TERRIBLE on anything excep freq 0 and channel 0... so this is why I said you won't be able to get them to both work at the same time... so the different throttles or different train engineers will not work, because you will need ALL your 55474's on freq 0 and track 0... (I have gotten one other track to work, but I had to do some crazy stuff, and retune the radios a bit) This is also why I told you to read George's site on this hardware.


Although I may be willing to take a tender apart if need be to install a 5474 I would not be willing to take a loco apart to put a decoder in it and from my perspective I would not gain anything with MTS or DCC since I am unlikely to let anyone else run these expensive toys.
>>> I figured you would halt at opening the loco. Unfortunately, the K4 needs to be opened to separate the motor from the track pickups...


The K-4 and Hudson will remain on track power and not get a Revolution installed for the same reason I would not put a decoder in them - I don't want to risk taking the loco apart - and for me a plain Train Engineer works as well with these locos as a Revolution or decoder would.
>>> understand, same logic 


Occasionally I will put a single decoder somewhere such as in my LGB coaches (to be able to dim or turn the lights off to stay under the MTS 5 amp limit).Now that I have the K-4 the Hudson will probably be used much less often - because the K-4 was much less expensive.

Thanks for the info on the decoders.
>> no problem, intended to be helpful... 


Jerry

>>> Greg


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 16 Sep 2010 08:48 PM 
My first thought was to put an Aristo 5474 into the K-4 and into the Hudson but so far I have not been able to get the 5474's to work with the 2K2 in the K-4. My 5474's may have stuck relays (if that is possible) since they sat on a shelf for many years unused.

>>> you should be able to hear the relays... but there's most likely more to your problem below... 


Apparently I was wrong about the relays. The 5474's apparently use electronic switching.

I can get the bell to ring (with either of my 5474's) via the Train Engineer but not the whistle.

>>> It would help to know which output you are using on the 55474, because they are not all the same... 

I have been using the Sound #1 and Sound #2 outputs.


I doubt that I will ever run both the K-4 and the Hudson at the same time but if I did they would be on different mainlines controlled by different throttles or different Train Engineers.

>>>> WHOOPS... this is why I gave you the "hint"... the 55474's only work on freq 1, channel 1... sometimes you can get one to work on a different channel or different frequency, but most times not... when you do get them programmed, the range is TERRIBLE on anything excep freq 1 and channel 1... so this is why I said you won't be able to get them to both work at the same time... so the different throttles or different train engineers will not work, because you will need ALL your 55474's on freq 1 and track 1... (I have gotten one other track to work, but I had to do some crazy stuff, and retune the radios a bit) This is also why I told you to read George's site on this hardware.

I think you meant to say Frequency 1, Channel 1 which I happened to be using because that was what the TE transmitter came set to (I believe this particular TE is the newest model). 
The 5474;s are older ART-5474's but unlike George's site they have separate antennas which may be a problem for them to receive a signal if I put them inside the metal tenders. Still, when I press "E" or "F" the lights on the 5474 flicker but only the "E" button seems to work. If I move the bell or the whistle to the bottom two contacts (5th pair) the "E" button will activate whatever is connected but nothing works with the "E" button (which by default would have to be the 4th pair of contacts). What is strange is the I would expect "E" to operate the 4th set of contacts and "F" to operate the 5th set of contacts. I did try reversing the wires to the switch contacts (reversing polarity) but nothing gets the "F" contact to work. It may be that both 5474's are defective but I am not yet convinced that is the case.


The fact that "E" operates the 4th set of contacts makes me wonder if the 5474 may actually be defective. 


Thanks,

Jerry

>>> Greg


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 13 Sep 2010 02:18 PM 
You should be able to use them.. if they are working well... I had to retune a number of the ones I used...

Regards, Greg 



I had missed this post earlier (I was thinking in terms of decoders). It may be that my 5474's will need to be sent to Aristo to get them fixed.

That still leaves the issue of whether it is practical to use the 5474's inside a metal tender where the range may be almost nothing. I may try using the one where the whistle is working and see what sort of range I get with it. 
My NW-2's just got back from Aristo so they are two more things I need to think about.


Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The units I have seen, and I have had 8 of them at my house at one time, all had separate antennas, a long wire. You should be able to snake the wire out somewhere, but in a metal loco you want to get it outside. May be tough. Their range is not as good as the main train engineer receiver. 

Again, George's site is the definitive reference. Sorry I spazzed, it's track 1 and channel 1... and maybe I got it wrong again, so I know it's the first "track" and the first "frequency"... 

D and E are the opto "outputs" which sink to ground. you might need a small pullup resistor to positive, like 10,000 ohms to make sure the system works... the outputs are either high impedence, or they pull to ground, but they might not "rise" to a high enough voltage for the sound system to notice the difference when they are pulled to ground. 

The high and ground are with respect to the sound board, not the voltage you power the 55474 with. These only will "sink" 10 milliamperes, so be careful with the wiring... 

Hope this gives you more of a start... *http://www.girr.org/girr...trong>**

Greg*


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Hi Greg,

I had looked at George's site after I reread your post. That is where I found the reference The antenna for the 5474 is internally connected to one of the power leads. If you want to convert the 5474 to an external antenna then you need to cut a trace on the printed wiring board and install a 3' or so piece of wire to the hole marked "ANT." 
When you said D and E are the opto "outputs" which sink to ground. you might need a small pullup resistor to positive, like 10,000 ohms to make sure the system works... the outputs are either high impedence, or they pull to ground, but they might not "rise" to a high enough voltage for the sound system to notice the difference when they are pulled to ground. I was lost. My electronic skills are outdated and long forgotten. When it comes to stuff like this and I am working with an expensive loco combined with an expensive sound system my options are limited to: 

1. confirm that what I am trying to do is acceptable to both manufacturers (have been done by others with no harm done)
2. works without my tampering with anything that could result in damage to the loco or to the sound system

In this case I need to determine if the 5474's are functioning according to Aristo standards and if so I will have to forget about trying to use them with the Phoenix 2K2 since neither Aristo nor Phoenix offer a suggested way to make them work together. I would rather do without a remote bell and whistle than to risk damaging anything.

Regards,

Jerry.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I see that... hmm... all the ones I have laid my hands on have the external antenna already... Are yours very old? Mine were all pretty recent (from Nick). 

1 and 2 are fine... and you can bet that if anyone knows what and how they should work it's George, since he was in on the design and early testing of that product, besides the fact that he probably knows more about that particular hardware than anyone else stateside. 

If you want to verify that they are working, then try the 10k resistor pullup. 

for example on output D: 

connect a 10k resistor to a 12v supply. connect the other end to terminal C 

Connect the minus lead of the 12v supply to E. 

the 10k resistor allows just a little current to flow, since the "output" can only handle 10 milliamperes. 

Now put your voltmeter across terminals C and E. 

With the output "off" you should read 12 volts (because the switch is "off" and the 10k resistor connects you to positive) 

With the output "on" you should read zero volts or very close (because the switch is "on" and connects to ground, so both your meter leads are at ground) 

Very simple and safe way to test. 

Regards, Greg 

p.s. the reason I am going to all this effort to help you is because often Aristo has no "test" for electronics beyond the lights light or the motor runs.


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Hi Greg,

I appreciate the information about how to test the Aristo 5474's. Eventually I will try it but at the moment I don't have any 10K resistors. Also the urgency has somewhat diminished. 

The 5474's I have are somewhat old. They are marked ART-5474 rather than CRE-55474. I don't recall just how old but both of them probably came with a special offer from Aristo for a free 5474 with the purchase of a Train Engineer System. I am pretty sure that I did not buy either of them separately because if I had I would have used it for whatever purpose I would have bought it for and neither 5474 have ever been used.

My granddaughter Abbie is spending the weekend with us and we were running the K-4 yesterday but the K-4 sound system was acting up. The 5474 was working with the whistle but the chuff stopped working. I thought it was the 5474 interfering with the chuff sound but I suspect I had not plugged in the tender completely.

Having the antenna running out and around the tender ruined (for me) the whole visual quality of the K-4 so rather than to continue to work with getting the 5474 to work with the K-4 I decided I would rather settle for the voltage activated bell and whistle than to have a remote that required an external (visible) antenna.










The other realization was that while Abbie likes the K-4 what she really wanted to run was... 









The LGB Circus Train. 












The reality of the K-4 cannot compete with the LGB Circus Train with the LGB Circus Sound Car and the LGB Bubble Car.


Eventually I will get back to sorting out the 5474's but for now my main focus is going to be to keep the K-4 chuff working.

Thanks,

Jerry


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Note about the Aristocraft/Crest 5474 and 5475. 

These must be programmed with frequency 0 (ZERO) only, but any track will work. 

Some will work on freq 1, but may not link after several years, so always use frequency 0 for reliability.


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

Posted By Dan Pierce on 27 Sep 2010 08:23 AM 
Note about the Aristocraft/Crest 5474 and 5475. 

These must be programmed with frequency 0 (ZERO) only, but any track will work. 

Some will work on freq 1, but may not link after several years, so always use frequency 0 for reliability. 



Hi Dan,

Greg had also recommended frequency (zero) and I thought he had made a mistake.

My Train engineer lists frequency 1 - 10 and channel 1 - 10. It does not show a frequency 0.





































My older Train Engineer also has frequency 1 - 10 but not the 10 channels and my oldest Train Engineer has a 1-2 track switch along with 1-2-3 code dip switches.

My three receivers are probably the same generations as the three Train Engineer Transmitters but it has been a long time since I bought some of them.

Perhaps I am mistaken (it would not be the first time) but I am unaware of a frequency 0 (zero) unless Aristo is referring to the 0 (zero) after #9 but logically that should be frequency #10. 

I don't know where Aristo is getting their reference to frequency 0 (zero) but their instructions seem to favor using frequency 1.

I am guessing that I have the 1994, 1996 (or 2000) and 2005 versions of the Train Engineer.

To clarify things I am only going by what I have read and I am not suggesting that I have discovered a better way. I just don't know where to find the (0) zero frequency that Aristo is referring to.

Regards,

Jerry


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

The idea of having an antenna wire from a 5474 dangling around has pretty much turned me off using a 5474 in a metal loco but I may want to use them in plastic locos especially since I bought a few additional Sierra sound systems at Marty's.

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't have all the docs in front of me, but it's the first freq and the first "track" that is reliable. I have not had any consistent success on anything else. I have gotten different "tracks" to work but the range was severely limited, like only a few feet. 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

The numbering sequence shows a 0 at the right, not a 10. Aristo left off the 1 in the number 10, hence the freq 0 statements. 

So, on the 27 and 75 mhz units, 0 and 10 are the same!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'll go back to make myself clear... the FIRST freq and the FIRST track are where I have had success. The indication of FIRST is the LEFTMOST LED on the screen. Zero or 10 is the rightmost. 

I see the confusion on people calling it zero. but it's really "higher" than nine, not "lower" than one. 

Of course I could be wrong, but some guy named Dan Pierce sent me a chart of frequencies once upon a time, and frequency 1 is 27.045 MHz and channel 10(0) is 27.255 MHz... 

(I have Dan's 27 and 75 MHz frequency chart on my site!) 

Regards, Greg


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