# Delton 2-8-0



## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

Hello all,
I have acquired a rather old Delton (Early American Trains) 2-8-0, bad picture attached.
It is new and came with instructions, but not very detailed. It has no sound, it has a weak smoke unit, and ran forward and reverse on a 6' section of track. The instructions don't even tell me about amperage needs or optimum voltage for running.
I am hoping to find someone who has one to learn more about it. A quick check so far tells me it has pickup wheels on the locomotive as well as the tender. I can't find any screws to remove the tender shell, is it just all glued together?
Thank you,
Aflyer


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Aristocraft got the Delton molds for the 2-8-0. here is what Aristo called it for a document


Classic1_24Delton/80100c-16.pdf


Hope you can find it, if not I have a soft copy that can be emailed to you.


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

Dan Pierce said:


> Aristocraft got the Delton molds for the 2-8-0. here is what Aristo called it for a document
> 
> 
> Classic1_24Delton/80100c-16.pdf
> ...


Dan,
Hello and thank you for the response. My first try brought up a manual for a Caterpillar crane. I will keep looking, but if you do not mind emailing it to me that would be great: [email protected]
Thank you,
Aflyer


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> I have acquired a rather old Delton (Early American Trains) 2-8-0,


I have an early Aristo 2-8-0 which must be pretty much the same as yours. I think I bought it as it said "EBT" on the side!
You'll find the manuals here:
https://www.gscale.net/resources/manuals/aristocraft

Years ago I fitted the sound system from an Aristo slope-back tender in the tender, along with the speaker and a couple of 9.6V NiMH battery packs. (So mine is running on 19.2V. Most Aristos are good for 12-24V.) Inside the loco is an Aristo onboard receiver (5490?) with an accessory relay board (5494) to turn on the sound and lights. [It didn't - I had to build a proper relay board to handle the current going to the sound board in the tender. The sound board is a 20+ yr old design, and it is terrible.] I also swapped the trucks for those on the slopeback, and increased the cab height by 1/2" to make it look more like a 1:20 model. (It's actually 1/24.) In this pic the coach is 1:20.











I had it working when I did a seminar at ECLSTS in 2003, so it pre-dates that! Here's the electronics inside the boiler.











To answer your question, the tender has 4 screws at the corners. They are very well hidden above the trucks!


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## choochoowilly (Oct 31, 2016)

1 is use manual the other is parts
http://gscale.net/images/manuals/Aristo_Consolidation_Manual.pdf
http://gscale.net/images/manuals/Aristo_Consolidation_Parts.pdf


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

Pete Thornton said:


> I have an early Aristo 2-8-0 which must be pretty much the same as yours. I think I bought it as it said "EBT" on the side!
> You'll find the manuals here:
> https://www.gscale.net/resources/manuals/aristocraft
> 
> ...


Pete,

Thanks for the Information, that is much more info than I got in the Delton instructions. That upgrade you did is something I have in mind for down the road. 
George


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

choochoowilly said:


> 1 is use manual the other is parts
> http://gscale.net/images/manuals/Aristo_Consolidation_Manual.pdf
> http://gscale.net/images/manuals/Aristo_Consolidation_Parts.pdf


choochooowilly,
Thank you,
Aflyer


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Can't compare it to the AristoCraft as they use different motor block systems.

Deltons drive one set of wheels and the rest through the side rods. This is a real weak point with these old engines.

Follow the link for info on the C-16, primarily AristoCraft, but some Delton in there too.
http://www.trainweb.org/girr/tips/tips5/c-16_tips.html


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

That is correct Todd, the single gear box is the weak link on the original Delton version of this model. For the OP, keep your trains very short and the track as level as you can and she will run for quite awhile. Typicaly most brands other than LGB were set up for 12 volt power. LGB used 24 volts for max power although most run at much lower voltages. A shop I get most of my G scale from in Zionsville, Indiana has a bunch of Delton rolling stock new or nearly new in the boxes. Some Delton stuff is very high end and made of Brass instead of plastic. Mike


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

toddalin, Mike,
Thanks for the information, I did know there were differences.
Here is a link to some early information I found: Someone else might be interested in seeing it.
http://npcrr.com/Articles/PhilJensenStory/ThePhilJensenStory.pdf
Aflyer


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

Pete,
I found the screws and checked out the inside of the Tender lots of room for a sound board in there, LOL.
Next will be lubricating the Locomotive. I read that I need to remove the bottom plate to properly scrape out the old white lithium and add something that doesn't break down and harden up. 
I have used synthetic wheel bearing grease on my S scale loco's.
Thank you,
George


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The original (original) Delton C-16 mounted the motor directly to the plastic frame of the locomotive. This worked fine as long as the motor didn't get hot. If the motor got hot, the plastic melted, and the motor no longer made good contact with the drive gear. 

I would recommend if you're up to it getting some shim brass (.010" or thereabouts) and making a heat sink of sorts. Cut a rectangle, maybe 1.5" long (whatever fits in the frame) by the width of the frame. You'll have to drill holes for the shaft and mounting screws. place it on the top of the frame between it and the motor. Get some small #0 lag screws (Micro-Fasteners) to attach this heat sink to the frame. This way if the motor gets hot, it will spread the heat out over a greater area, and the stiffness of the brass will keep the plastic from deforming.

Later versions of the original Delton C-16, made by Caledonia Loco Works used a machined aluminum block to mount the motor to the drive axle. This was definitely superior to the original plastic frame, but the gear material Caledonia used was not very strong, so the gear on the axle would strip after a while. 

Aristo bought the molds and produced the loco again. The 3rd-generation drive was a definite improvement, but in order to make it fit, they raised the boiler and cylinders up off the frame around 3/16" if I recall. A bugger to lower and get looking "right." 

Aristo ran a 4th generation about 10 years ago with their "prime mover" gearboxes powering each axle with a horizontally-mounted motor driving the main drive shaft via a toothed belt. This is by far the most reliable version of this loco on the market. You can--with a little cutting and filing--marry an old Delton boiler and cab to the new chassis. 

Later,

K


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

East Broad Top said:


> The original (original) Delton C-16 mounted the motor directly to the plastic frame of the locomotive. This worked fine as long as the motor didn't get hot. If the motor got hot, the plastic melted, and the motor no longer made good contact with the drive gear.
> 
> I would recommend if you're up to it getting some shim brass (.010" or thereabouts) and making a heat sink of sorts. Cut a rectangle, maybe 1.5" long (whatever fits in the frame) by the width of the frame. You'll have to drill holes for the shaft and mounting screws. place it on the top of the frame between it and the motor. Get some small #0 lag screws (Micro-Fasteners) to attach this heat sink to the frame. This way if the motor gets hot, it will spread the heat out over a greater area, and the stiffness of the brass will keep the plastic from deforming.
> 
> ...


K,
Thanks for your input. Mine is the version with the aluminum motor mount block, but it is for sure a low tech plastic geared drive. Fortunately my layout is small and pretty level, we will see how long we can keep it running.
I am shopping for a more heavy duty, more powerful steamer to add to the roster.
Aflyer


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I would make sure to keep ample grease on the gears to prevent unnecessary wear. If you have occasion to remove the motor, I'd be tempted to take a diamond file to the edges of the teeth on the worm on the motor so they're not as sharp. This will lessen their tendency to want to cut the drive gear. For lubrication, I use a product called "Super Lube." It's a synthetic grease that was recommended to me by Barry Olsen, who was a guru on locomotive drives and made some of the most bulletproof drives you will find in this hobby. (Sadly, he passed away a few years ago.) 

Good luck, and enjoy the C-16.

Later,

K


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

East Broad Top said:


> I would make sure to keep ample grease on the gears to prevent unnecessary wear. If you have occasion to remove the motor, I'd be tempted to take a diamond file to the edges of the teeth on the worm on the motor so they're not as sharp. This will lessen their tendency to want to cut the drive gear. For lubrication, I use a product called "Super Lube." It's a synthetic grease that was recommended to me by Barry Olsen, who was a guru on locomotive drives and made some of the most bulletproof drives you will find in this hobby. (Sadly, he passed away a few years ago.)
> 
> Good luck, and enjoy the C-16.
> 
> ...


K,
I was just re-reading your post and wondering if anyone has just changed out the plastic gear on the drive axle?
Just curious about a part or two I might be able to add to the toolbox for future needs.
Thank you,
George


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

At one time, Northwest Short Line offered a replacement axle gear for the Delton C16 2-8-0. But they havent in years as most folks upgraded to the newer drives when they were available. But with the advent of 3d printing and such, I bet someone, even NWSL or Boston Gear might have a replacement if you can measure it correctly. If it runs well, keep the loads light and run her till she drops.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> wondering if anyone has just changed out the plastic gear on the drive axle?


Jerry Yeramian (he's often posting on Facebook) makes Delrin replacement gears for common locos. I don't know if he ever did a Delton C-16, but if you send him dimensions and teeth he can take a look at his inventory.


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## Aflyer (Jun 17, 2020)

Pete,
Thank you,
George


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