# Beginner airbrush questions



## fendercat (Dec 27, 2007)

Hey all,

So after hitting the ceiling with what I can do creatively with spray cans, I am ready to get my airbrush on. Got a Grex dual action airbrush and am now researching paints. Please forgive the simplicity of my inquiry.

My ultimate goal is to do a nice weathering job on my Accucraft K-36. Not a job for a beginner, I know, so I will be practicing on some rolling stock first. Here are my concerns:

Acrylic vs Enamel? I have read that acrylic is good for beginners. Looks like Floquil is a good product to go with.

If I go with acrylic, should I use water or an actual thinner to thin? It being water-based, I wasn't sure if it matters.

Also, what kind of sealant would be best for my purposes?

Thanks,

Brendan


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

Floquil is excellent paint. You use their thinner for it. Floquil makes products that can be used for over coating (after you apply your decals). Do not use Testors Dullcoat on outside models. It is wonderful stuff indoors but it is not UV tolerant.


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## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Having used both enamel and acrylic for decades my personal very strong preference is for acrylic; both because it is less toxic and because I find it to be a much more versatile paint. If all you plan to do is airbrush, then I think enamel and acrylic are more evenly balanced, but if you want to get into washes and drybrushing, I would definitely go with acrylic. My personal favorite is Pollyscale, originally made by Floquil, now distributed by Testor's. I never use acrylic thinner anymore, just filtered water. 
If you're really unsure, by a bottle of each to test and compare. In the end, it's all about what paint you feel more comfortable with. 
Chris


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## fendercat (Dec 27, 2007)

Posted By cjwalas on 07 May 2011 01:21 PM 
Having used both enamel and acrylic for decades my personal very strong preference is for acrylic; both because it is less toxic and because I find it to be a much more versatile paint. If all you plan to do is airbrush, then I think enamel and acrylic are more evenly balanced, but if you want to get into washes and drybrushing, I would definitely go with acrylic. My personal favorite is Pollyscale, originally made by Floquil, now distributed by Testor's. I never use acrylic thinner anymore, just filtered water. 
If you're really unsure, by a bottle of each to test and compare. In the end, it's all about what paint you feel more comfortable with. 
Chris 

Chris, 

Any reason you don't use acrylic thinner anymore, aside from water just being cheaper?

Brendan


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## cjwalas (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, I tend to mix acrylics from different manufacturers and I've encountered some bad reactions between the thinners and some other paints. Water's just easier. But I use alcohol and water with Tamiya paints. 
Chris


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Enamels ? I never thought about Enamel paint. This turned out to be a good, simple, and informative question. 

JJ


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

If you plan to paint a locomotive, my recommendation would be Scalecoat. I used Scalecoat 1 for my #21 and the stuff is fabulous!! I was painting bare metal (brass) and Scalecoat 1 is designed for that - self-etching and no primer needed. I baked it per instructions (in a toaster oven) and it isn't wearing off despite much handling. 

For weathering an Accucraft pre-existing paint job, my buddy Eric has had good results with Floquil. I'm pretty sure he used their solvent-based paint, not the Polly-Scale acrylic.


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

whichever type paint you get you need a air brush for that type or tips


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

I airbursh quite a bit of stuff with Tamiya acrylics. When I do, I thin it with Isoprobyl Alcohol instead of water. Buy it at your local drug store or Wal-Mart, a big bottle goes a long ways and it is CHEAP. You want as close to 100% isoprobyl as you can get (i use 91%). The reason being is that it dries much faster, and you can re-coat quickly. I spray very light coats and usually can put on the second coat within seconds of the first. I tend to mix it 1:1, although I may cut back a little on the alcohol. 

I have also done some weathering with the cheap craft paint (like Apple Barrel) you can buy at Wal-Mart (again, it is CHEAP). You have to thin it with water, not alcohol. And you have to use quite a bit of water as it is thick stuff. Turn your paint down so you are only putting on very light coats. 

Best advice, before you spray that K-36.....Practice Practice Practice. Use pop (or beer) cans to practice on. They are smooth and if you can properly paint one without running, you are ready. Good Luck 

Chris


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

While I hardly use my airbrush anywhere near often enough to qualify as anything more than a rank amateur, I've had very good luck with Badger's "ModelFlex" (or is it "AccuFlex") line of paints. They come pre-thinned so all you need to do (with a Badger airbrush) is screw the airbrush jar top onto the paint jar and have at it. I dare say that if I were to work more and more with that paint (and a much newer airbrush), I may even begin to like the medium. What I really like about the ModelFlex paints is that while they're thinned for the airbrush, they also brush VERY well. I've used the cheap craft paint, too, and found that you've really got to push the pressure on the airbrush to around 40 PSI because the pigments are larger and tend to clog at lower pressures. 

Later, 

K


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## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Are you painting brass or plastic.? I'll be building soon out of styrene - currently doing the R&D component.


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

"Practice on pop cans." -- Good tip. I've been nervous about picking up a $70 freight car and spraying paint at it


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