# Ruby to Forney



## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

I'm just starting to convert a recently aquired Ruby to a Forney. Once a bit of repair and tweeking was done the Ruby seeems to run well so on to the conversion.

The conversion is loosely based on the Hinkley built Billerica & Bedford Ariel/Puck forneys that were meant to run as a 4-4-0T as Forney intended Forney locos to run. I plan on a wood cab but the coal bunker/tank and other parts will be metal. I'll probably leave the domes "as is" though it would be more correct to substitute a bell for the sand dome and use an older style steam dome.

So far I have the foot plate which was a tough one in terms of finding a suitable piece of metal. I had planned on and prefer brass but couldn't get the correct size locally so ended up with 16ga steel from home depot. The task of squaring up and drilling the holes on my cnc mini-mill wasn't fun due to the limited travel on the Y axis. I ended up milling and drilling manually. I spent a bit of time doing the layout and machining this part since it will be the foundation for the rest of the loco.

The next parts to make will be the foot boards to replace the tanks followed by the pilot wheels and truck assembly. I'll probably cast wheel blanks or use brass. Since they will be mostly hidden under the footplate they'll be simple disc wheels.

Here is the progress thus far.










The bunker will be interesting since the flare of the top edge is curved rather than the usual straight flare. This presents a problem in bending the flair and the corners end up being compound curves. I plan on trying to produce the curved flare but may have to resort to straight flare. 
Jack


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, 
looking promising. How do you solve the problem of going around tight curves? BTW about your flares: There was an article in Model Engineer. He author turned corner filling pieces, cut quarters out of these blanks and soft soldered everything together. 
Regards


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Henner, 

Tight curves don't concern me too much since I plan on 8' radius or larger. The pilot truck will have some side to side movement. In full scale these had the first set of drivers blind but I don't think that will fly in G1. it will be interesting to see how tight a curve I can get it to negociate. 

ME is a wealth of info and I wish I could afford the overseas rates. I had considered turning the flare corners but am concerned about fitting/soldering them in place. I am thinking about roughly shaped blocks of brass silver soldered in place being carved to shape with a die grinder and files. I'm still in the mulling it over state. Maybe turning somewhat thicker than necessary and soldering in place with hand finishing with the die grinder and files. I want to silversolder in order to allow a bead to be soldered in place as well at the top of the tank, etc. 

Regards, 

Jack


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, 
do you want me to dig up the ME article and send it to you? 
Regards


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Henner, 

Thanks very much for the offer. If I can't work it out myself I'll ask you. 

jack


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

McMaster Carr has all the brass in any thickness you ever need and probally just a few days away.


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Jason, 

Thanks for the suggestion. I purchase from McMaster-Carr routinely but their brass prices are pretty steep unless you order a large piece. Just couldn't justify $30+ when all I needed was a 4"X6" piece. 

Jack


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## insanerocketkid (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack - try Metal Supermarket by the Brooks Ave yard near the Airport. They have a rack of cut-offs in which you can pick something you might like and get it for a cheaper price. Lots of steel, but they also have brass and copper. Worth a drive into town and checking it out. I get my steel through them for my 1" Scale locomotive. 

Mike


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Mike, 

Who is this insanerocketkid? 

I forgot about the supermarket. I have bought there with mixed results but worth a try in the future. 

Jack


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

When building my cab forward, I got all my brass from OnlineMetals.com - quick service and available in short lengths. Sheet, hex, round, square - they have it, and other metals besides brass too.


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Today while waiting for an RTV mold to set up I spent some time, about 15 minutes, making an adaptor to allow me to use the cheap Asian grocery butane in this Ruby. It was an experiment and works fine thought I don't know how long the plastic tubing gasket will last. The adaptor is made from 3/8"dia brass round stock. It involved drilling with three drills being a letter C, #60, and 1/16". One end of the brass is drilled letter C .230" deep, then drilled #60 thru. The adaptor is reversed and a 1/16" drill opens out the #60 hole about .030" deep. The nose end was turned just a bit smaller but that isn't necessary. A short bit of R/C plastic fuel tubing was slipped over the can nozzle and the large hole is forced over the tubing. The adaptor worked fine first time. Since the adaptor doesn't have a guide to stabilize it it is just a tad wobbly but a steady hand allows it to fill the tank easily. I may make a guide to stabilize the adaptor but if it works as is why bother.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack, I hate to mention this, but Royce (Quisenberry Station) sells a very inexpensive adaptor which clips on the flange and includes a valve with a knob. 

Yours looks like a good solution, though!


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

Hi Pete, 

Yes, I'm aware of a couple of adaptors but this one requiring less than fifty cents in material and 15 minutes of effort beat out the $30 adaptor! I also wanted it now rather than weeks. I thought of making a guide that fits on the flange but this one works fine so far. 

Jack


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## Jack - Freshwater Models (Feb 17, 2008)

I made the chimney for the Forney in some spare time. The chimney was sketched up based on Ariel's chimney from Railroad Gazette drawing. The origional Ruby chimney was turned down at the bottom end to just fit in some 9/16" tubing and about 1/2" of it was parted off. The parted off section was soldered in the tube. The top of the chimney was turned from an off cut with a bore to just fit over the tubing. The chimney was soldered and you see the results. Now to paint it. 

Next task is to fit the two walks with studs to suit the brackets and make a link and pin coupler on the drag beam. Then to the pilot.

Jack


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