# Piko Sonneberg Loco Shed



## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I'm not very good at scratch building stuff, so I decided to buy a kit and try my hand at building this train shed for my two LGB Moguls. While this is a German train shed, I hope it will be close enough to an American design to not look out of place. While I have built hundreds of model cars when I was young, just looking at all the parts has me feeling over whelmed. So, I've taken some photos of the kit as I received it today. It is boxed very well. Weight of 17 pounds was a little surprising to me, but there is a lot of plastic here. Each part is numbered and that number correlates to the part on the instruction sheet. The instruction sheet includes a master parts breakdown with drawings of each part with it's part number. As for detailed instructions, there are none. Illustrations are all you have to go by. They are numbered in the order you should assemble the parts. 
The window frames and doors are all green and I am not fond of green, so, I will be painting all the green parts some other color. My first thought was red, but against the red brick, will the red give enough contrast? Any suggestions?


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Well..there's always brown..fer wood...
Red paint is different than red bricks..
Try your hand at weathering ....
..like Ray does...
Add a wash to fill mortar lines..
Really amercan.iZe it...

If ya feels over whelmed..just glue 2 parts together..
Take a break...
Look back...
Thar won't be so many parts...
Be easier when ya go back to it!! Ha!

I'm working on a h.w. diner..seems the more I work on it...the more parts I have..
I slipped..
Now its cut up...
Guess it might make a 85' diner..dunno tho
..so many parts...

Your good to go Rand!!
And if you accept this asignment...
...poof ..you won't need directions...!!
..POOPH!!!!

Have fun Bud!!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

These are good kits. They go together easily and appear robust.

The key thing to watch for is joining the walls, to make sure the corners are really square.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Red, getting everything straight and square are my biggest concerns with this kit. Each side wall is comprised of three main panels, two joiner strips and two corners. With no base to align the wall sections, it looks like I'll have to assemble the pcs face down on the table, glue them up and then after the side walls and end walls are dry, assemble all the walls standing up.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I dry assembled the three side walls, two joiner strips and two corners. Then with two pcs of track and my C&S LGB Mogul sitting next to the panels, it looks like the shed will be 1/4 inch short of closing the doors. The inside length of the building is 26 1/2 inches. My LGB Mogul with Kadees measures out at 26 3/4 inches. So, I'm going to have to buy the extension.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I just looked through the Google brick buildings and maybe black window frames. Still have to think about the doors.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Frames ..steel ..or..wood...


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

I have an assembled one. The green on the windows and doors is a 'marine' type of green, slightly aqua. I would prefer more of a dark green for a British look. Some real glass may be going in the windows because the clear plastic gets cruddy looking after a while. It is tempting to pick it up by the roof edges but they just break off at the glue join.

Andrew


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

The window frames are metal. The doors are wood.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I decided against painting the window frames and doors. So, I started assembling the side walls which means installing the window frames and glass er clear plastic. While the instructions did state to check to see if you have everything listed on the sheet, I dove in and started assembling. The first thing I found is that the parts although pretty nice overall, do need trimming and fitting. The window frames fit nicely and the glass just sits against the frames. Some of the window frames and glass are warped slightly. No problem if you are using a fast drying cement. If you're using the old tube cement such as what is supplied, you'll need weights or clamps to hold the pieces in place until the glue dries. I'm using Plastruct Plastic Weld and it sets up in less than a minute. In assembling the windows to the walls, there are two walls that have windows that are more narrow. The interesting part of this is that they still use the large pieces of glass and since one large piece of glass is broken, I will cut the extra part and try covering the window frame with the trimmings. Sinning up straight for a couple of hours has gotten my back hurting so I gave it a break and thought I would update my progress. I'll take some pics and post this afternoon.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)




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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Why do our backs hurt now!!?
I've been standing..sorta bent over ..stripping paint off car bodies today..

On break now ...also..

Yours better yet??!

Dirk..what happened to being kids...or even just younger!!


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Back feels better. I think it's pay back for what we did to our bodies when we were young. LOL


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I tried working on the kit yesterday after the wife had got home. I no more than opened the bottle of Plasitc Weld and the wife who has Asthma asked what was that smell. So I capped the bottle and waited until she left for work today.
I now have the outer wall sections assembled. I now am waiting on the extension kit to arrive. Although it was ordered last weekend, it was not instock and had to be ordered from Piko. I was told it would ship to me on Friday the 18th. That depending on Piko getting it to my supplier on time. 
Tomorrow I'll start assembling the windows for the roof. I don't think there is much more I'll be able to do until the extension kit gets here.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I love work - I can watch it for hours.

Plastic Weld and all this stuff about building buildings reminds me of one of my favorite building tips: Cut-Rite Wax Paper. What a great invention. Prevents gluing the walls to the workbench; prevents painting the workbench when you're painting the walls.

JackM


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Good tip I had forgot about. Thanks Jack


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Randy,
When your all done building it might I suggest you get a tube of construction adhesive and run a beed along all the inside wall and roof joints as this will make the model rock solid indoors or out.

Boo Boo


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Second above suggestion and add a piece of 1/4 round wood molding and squish it into the caulk in the corners. I did that for my CO models and they stopped falling apart on my outdoor layout

Jerry


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I finally got notice the shed extension was shipped yesterday. Delivery is scheduled for Friday. So with the wife home, will most likely not be able to work on the shed until Monday.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Construction adhesive? Like Liquid Nails?


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, I opened up the box for the extension building parts and assembled the windows. it looks like the Plastic Weld isn't working with this type plastic very well. One problem I'm sure is that the parts are not fitting flush against each other and I'm sorry but I'm not going to file and sane each piece to get a flush fit. So I'm using the glue that comes with the kits. In getting ready to put the walls together, the poor instruction sheets are really making the build a pain. I have parts I have no idea what they are and their not shown on the instruction sheets as to where they might go. Also, the parts list shows a diagram of the part with a part number, but no description of what each part is. The other thing I don't like about this kit is the absence of anything to square the walls when assembling. Yea, I can assemble the flat walls and get them pretty straight, but then when I stand the walls up and start assembling them to the corners, it may well take two people to hold the walls while gluing and using some type of tool to make sure the walls end up square.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

I've used something like this with great results 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-90-Degree-Corner-Clamp-WS-1/204958409


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

I have used these assembly squares from Rockler. I suspect that Micro-Mark will probably have some jigs to assist in this type of construction.

I also have some similar squares made out of aluminum L-angles but cannot remember where I got them. I like these the best since most of the modeling glues don't adhere to them.

In addition, sometimes I use small 5 lb. type weight-lifting weights to hold and support walls and such in position when doing a glue-up. I, like you, never seem to have enough hands.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Great idea Eric. I have a $25.00 gift card for Lowes, so hopefully they have the same type clamps. I might buy two. Thanks


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Randy-

Looks like Lowe's does 

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Has poor reviews. Check the screw threads out, that's the complaint. Apparently some are bent on the shelf.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Randy, I have one I bought assembled and the builder has glued a 1-1/4" piece of timber along the bottom inside the side walls. It keeps the sides from caving in when picking the building up from the bottom. They have been painted the same red brick color. Considering yours will be longer with extensions I think it would be a good idea.

Andrew


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

You're talking wood? Good idea. I've got to go to lows and get a tube of liquid nails and the corner vise. I have plenty of pcs of wood to use. Thanks for the idea Andrew.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

One could also use plastic too. In my HO building days I would use thicker square pieces of styrene to reinforce buildings. Sometimes would cut thicker Plexiglas into stripes for reinforcing too.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I use cabinetmaker's clamps on these big buildings. They are on the expensive side, but good clamps are worth the money. These come in handy for a lot of projects.

As often as possible, I like to use the components of the kit to ensure things are square, such as putting the roof on to keep everything aligned when gluing the walls.


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Weld on 16 boys, Lets get real boys.

Boo Boo


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## vmilnik (Jan 12, 2011)

So I added a bottom to the shed and a sub floor. It is still a work in progress but it was a big help.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I like what you've done Vic. What thickness and type wood are you using?


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

Done Yet..................
Boo Boo


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## honeybooboo (Jan 10, 2014)

vmilnik said:


> So I added a bottom to the shed and a sub floor. It is still a work in progress but it was a big help.



That looks sweet, nice work. I only wish I had a couple engines Small enough to fit in these type houses.
Come on AML, Lets get those GP-60's done.
Boo Boo


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Slowly still working on mine. Glued the second set of side walls together and the back walls. Need to glue the two door sections together then I will be ready to erect the walls.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Vic, did you find a reason they made the roof supports three pieces with the small piece in the middle? Did you glue the roof supports to the bottom of the glass frames in pieces or did you glue the roof support pieces together by them selves?


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Looking pretty good Randy, I like the floor.


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## vmilnik (Jan 12, 2011)

Randy,
I did glue the three pieces to the bottom it was a little frustrating, but in the end it worked. I added center supports with lighting that I'm still working on. I will put up some more photos as soon as i get them. The floor is made out of 1/4" birch wood from lowes. I have been using it for all the builds it seems to keep the buildings better supported. I added Bass wood cross bracing under the tracks across the building and then a floor on top of that. Also I have found that E6000 glue also helps keep it all together a little better too. The down side to this project was weight. It has added A LOT of weight to the building, but the building is a lot more sturdy. I believe the reasoning behind all the pieces is space and machining. I think they were trying to get a lot in a little box. Also i added 2 ext pieces instead of one so I could park my Hudson inside it just fits. Im going to try to take some additional pics this week. 

Thank you 
Vince


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, the floor pics are Vics.

Vic, thanks for the reply. I like the birch flooring. I'm thinking of trying to portray a pit between the rails. Some dark plexi might work


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, not getting anywhere fast with this build, but after cutting some 1/8 inch plastruct the other day, I finally set them in place across the wall joints. I used liquid nails to secure them in place. Hopefully this will be enough to strengthen the walls. I'm short one pc to put across the joint on the two door sections but I'm really not worried about that joint flexing much being the large door openings. Once they dry I will paint the pieces with some ruddy brown paint I have. I still haven't made it to Lowes to get the corner clamps, but I also need to look for the wood pieces for the flooring. I'll be out of town next week, so there won't be much getting done until I get back.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, so I skipped using the corner clamp and stood two walls up and glued them together. Tomorrow I'll glue the other walls together.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Looks like you have a bunch of kiddie-cars behind your shed ...


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Those are part of my toy Corvette collection.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

While the wife was sleeping, I glued the second wall in place. Still not sure what I'm going to use to strengthen the corner joints.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Use a piece of plastic square tubing from Plastruct


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

That is what I was thinking Chris. Thanks


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

Randy Another great supplier is Colorado Models,
http://www.coloradomodel.com/

has parts

http://www.coloradomodel.com/babmain1.htm

CMS 5704 are corner braces

Jerry


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

up9018 said:


> Use a piece of plastic square tubing from Plastruct


OR Plastruct right angle strips...........offered as large as 3/8" per side and .065" thick. I use this for beefing up corners. Works great!


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## stevedenver (Jan 6, 2008)

5 pages, and over a month, and its still not finished-wow


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Yes, but he's only working while his wife is sleeping!


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## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

stevedenver said:


> 5 pages, and over a month, and its still not finished-wow


over a month? thats nothing..
my projects take years to complete..

Scot


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah yes, this hasn't been a fast build for sure. I was gone a week to the Detroit Woodward Ave, Dream Cruise and just got back Sunday night. I did get the front wall sections with the large green doors attached. I now need to find my plastruct square tubes and see if they are big enough to secure the corners. But, I'm having a surprise 59th birthday party here for the wife on Saturday. So I have to cut a pc of plywood I have in the garage and after moving the building walls from the dining room table to the plywood, I'll move everything to a bedroom. So I don't expect much more to get done on the building until next week.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Priorities Randy....
...gotta work on your "priorities" guy!!

Happy Birthday...to your wife...

;-)


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, the priority is to keep the wife happy. If she's happy, then I can be happy. If she ain't happy, nobody is happy. Took me three wives and a lot of years to figure that out.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

Randy Stone said:


> Yes, the priority is to keep the wife happy. If she's happy, then I can be happy. If she ain't happy, nobody is happy. Took me three wives and a lot of years to figure that out.


Having three young kids my movie humor comes from kid movies. But for those that have seen Rio 2 the male birds in that movie say "A happy wife is a happy life." My wife since reminds of that movie line


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I founds some time to break off a lot of the small parts and clean them up yesterday. I then cut some 3/8" square Plastruct tubing and glued in the 4 corners with liquid nails to help strengthen the structure. Then today, I installed the small sections of wall columns and corner pieces. I then glued the roof sides into place. Also, I've found that the Plastruct Plastic Weld does not do very well on this type plastic or at least not when the two surfaces are not machine fit. So I'm back to using the glue that came with the kit.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, I trimmed some roof parts today and glued the rood stringers and roof panels together. Tomorrow I'll try installing the stringers and roof window panels. I don't like the fact the roof stringers are made up of three pieces, but it is what it is. The instructions show the roof panels them selves do not get glued to the walls and roof window panels. So, there will be no strength added by the roof panels.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well after another snafu caused by the poor instructions, I have the roof purling channels and the roof windows in place. The instructions show the channels facing upwards when in fact they have to be install facing down. So after cutting notches in the window frames so they would fit down into the channels, I figured out the channels were upside down. Anyway, the roof stringers and windows are glued in place. The rood sections do not get glued into place but just sit on the roof stringers and side walls. At this point I don't know whether I'm going to glue the two roof sections together to make one piece or leave them as two pieces. This way you can get inside to work on stuff as needed. Right now I have the building sitting on a 3/4 inch thick piece of shelving board that has laminate on both sides. It's too wide to fit on my layout but I'd like to keep the building on this board permanently. So I'm going to have to measure the board, slide the building off the board, cut the board and then slide the building back on. Then I will need to find some wood to floor the inside of the building like Vic has done to his building. I also have to paint the gray wall bracing that I added.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I glue all of my two-piece roofs. I use the cabinet maker's clamps, thus the metal bars of the clamps are a flat work surface, and I weight the roofs down with books. The clamps make it easy to get good pressure and ensure the entire joint is glued.

On both of my Piko buildings I did not glue the roofs to the structure, but I am indoors.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

My layout is indoors also. In the garage that is.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

While I have started dismantling my garage layout, I brought some track and two LGB Moguls inside to store inside the train shed. Yea the white board the shed is sitting on doesn't look the part, but who knows when I will get around to installing a wood floor.
Now a question, what is the normal or most often way locos are put in train sheds? Are they pulled in or backed in? I need to install the chimney stacks and not sure if they should be at the back of the shed or up by the big doors. I'm thinking the locos are typically pulled in, but it sure looks better with the locos facing out. At least it does to me.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

The train shed at Strasuburg PA has stacks on both front and back
I am putting two sets on my train shed in progress. That said, I have seen the engine house at Chama and always seems to back in steam locos so they are near the front. So that is my vote

Jerry


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

The Durango Silverton also seems to back theirs in most of the time. Sometimes if they are working on them they put them in forward but they are not fired at that time.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Jerry and Winn. I like the looks of the front of the loco looking out the open doors so the stacks will go on the door ends.


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## Michael W (Oct 10, 2012)

http://www.geo.de/reisen/community/bild/298801/Bochum-Deutschland-Dampflok-Parade-vor-Lokschuppen
The above link shows an restored trainshed near my hometown in Germany....
Hope that helps


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Well this is my final post unless there are questions.

The parts are pretty well made. Everything fit pretty good. Overall I'm satisfied with the end result. 

BUT, the instructions just plain suck. Parts while numbered are not labeled as to what they are.

Make sure you have a smooth level location to build your building. I started out on the dining room table and later moved it to a pc of laminated board.

There are no notes as to how things should be put together. The roof support purlings shown on the instruction sheets have the channels pointing up when in fact the roof panels and window panels only fit right with the channels pointing down. Then there are the extra parts you get that are not listed and who knows what they are for. The main kit came with two small tubes of glue. The extra section kit came with another tube of glue. I may have used more glue than needed, but I pretty much used all three tubes. As heavy as this building is when completed, I'd hate to think how easy it would be to break apart if I had not stiffened up the walls and corners. I used 1/8 inch thick Pastruct cut to size along the side and end walls. Then I used 3/8 inch Plastruct square tube in the corners. I used liquid nails to glue the Plastruct to the building walls.

Dimensions:

Overall width at roof: 19 3/4 inch
Overall width at the base: 18 3/4 inch
Overall length at base: 27 7/8 inch for base kit with three sections
Overall length at base: 36 3/4 inch including extension kit to make the building four sections long
Base to top of roof: 13 inch not including the exhaust stacks.
Locomotive door openings: 6 5/8 inch side to side and 7 inch top of rail to top of the door in the center of the opening.

My LGB Moguls would fit inside the base building except for the couplers. The extension allows the loco to fit inside and have room on both ends with the doors closed.


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## gtg905s (Aug 1, 2011)

Sorry, I know this is an old post, but I have loved the aspect of PIKO kit bashing building. I started up two years ago, but work and life got in the way now I am determined to finish my buildings for this years layout.
Did you add lighting to your loco shed? 
Did you use off the shelf PIKO lighting for it?

Is anyone else still enjoying kit bashing PIKO buildings on this forum?

I am almost done with a build that was inspired by a random German LGB video:
https://goo.gl/photos/k53s7SzWMqyZJkiEA
I have extended it by one to comfortably fit RhB locos (size test done with the Crocodile), because I still wish to build out some interior very similarly to another thread post. I switched out the lights for Jeff's lights at BridgeMasters. Using the PIKO lights on the refinery build.

Thank you,


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I built this train shed 5 years ago and did add my own lighting inside and out using some Wathers tube lights and also some small outdoor type shaded lamps over the doors. It's been out in the elements so it's about time to renew. Later RJD


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

GTG, I haven't done anything more with my shed yet. I would like to do lighting and a wood floor but want to wait until I have a more permanent location for the shed. Right now it's on my back patio under roof.


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## gtg905s (Aug 1, 2011)

Great to hear guys, Thanks!
I have put a high priority on my builds to complete this year layout. I live in a townhome so it is an indoor layout that I wish to wire up all my lights and build my builds with hinge pins so that I can disassemble them after the holidays. Building hinge pins: I have not found a satisfying solution compared to POLA sawmill or rounds house pinned setup.

Though a big disappointment that you had Randy was the strength of the walls. My best guesses are the glue or the fact I didn't sand down the joints. I used UHU allplast and I was disappointed. Each wall face I planned on "welding" them together but allow for it to be disassembled at its 90s for easier storage. I could not pick up the wall laying flat without it feeling it would break its glue.

The last layout I had issues with trying to create modular connections with the approximate 22 AWG wire associated with the LGB street and station lights. I wanted to use the Marklin 73008 connectors in all various colors, but even with small movements caused the wire to break. Those connectors allow for up to 4 way connections to happen and allow me to disassemble, which is why I bought a few 100 up. Will getting solder under the insulation of the wires help? or soldering and sleeving the small wires help?
My layout will only be up for a month'ish, any help will be greatly appreciated!
Any small gauge wire terminal blocking advance would help too.

Kits that are in my closet to finish:

PIKO kit bash loco shed: https://goo.gl/photos/k53s7SzWMqyZJkiEA plus one.
PIKO Sonneberg freight depot
Full PIKO refinery: 62037, 62038, 62039, 62046, 62047, 62048, 62049
PIKO side kits and lights galore to match the builds
Model Power ESSO lights x8 to kit bash into the refinery

I can break out these discussions as it is proper will all my questions.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

gtg905s said:


> Though a big disappointment that you had Randy was the strength of the walls. My best guesses are the glue or the fact I didn't sand down the joints. I used UHU allplast and I was disappointed. Each wall face I planned on "welding" them together but allow for it to be disassembled at its 90s for easier storage. I could not pick up the wall laying flat without it feeling it would break its glue.


I built the Piko brewery and side buildings (which I converted to a factory) which is very similar to the loco shed. At least, it uses the same wall panels and the side building has the same roof. I agree that they felt a little wobbly when first glued together... but once the roof was glued on that mostly went away. Butt joints are always the weakest, and having the panels joined on multiple sides helped. I did add strips of styrene overlapped on each panel to the inside of the joints to provide additional strength. I don't know if that would work for you, but it's an idea. 

Also, I prefer MEK as an adhesive--if you can get a tight fit it wicks into the joints and seems to "melt" the plastic better together than the provided UHU. But don't over apply 

As far as "pinning" them together for disassembly later, what about small metal angle brackets screwed to (but not through) the panels at the corners where they're thicker? I bought a couple of used Piko structures that had various things screwed to them with small sheet metal screws--I assume the holes were pre-drilled--and they seem to have help up fine.


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## gtg905s (Aug 1, 2011)

Thank you riderdan,

I saw Randy did reenforce the joins in a similar manner. My first idea was to use the smallest extruded aluminum L angles (3/4 by 1/2) from home depot and screwing them in. I bought a fe to use, but reconsidering using even smaller styrene L angles to glue and screw them in.

Due to the fumes and fast set time of MEK, I am not considering that solvent for the walls. I will try and look around a bit more. I probably will stick with UHU Plast, haha

I am going to pick up some "heavy duty" RC plane pinned hinges to test with:









Wish I could find some replicas of the POLA pins (I may consider MEK to weld them to the walls).
I may try and fabricate some with the large sections of the left over trees:









That image is from a POLA 11 stall roundhouse from eBay. I wish I had the space for beautiful building!
eBay POLA 11 stall roundhouse


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

gtg905s said:


> Thank you riderdan,
> 
> I saw Randy did reenforce the joins in a similar manner. My first idea was to use the smallest extruded aluminum L angles (3/4 by 1/2) from home depot and screwing them in. I bought a fe to use, but reconsidering using even smaller styrene L angles to glue and screw them in.
> 
> ...


I also saw the engine shed. Very cool if you have a three-acre layout 

Your mention of aluminum angle reminded me of something else... you might want to glue and/or screw some pieces of angle to the bottom of the roof panels. As I mentioned I've bought some used buildings of this same type of construction (some 10 or more years old) and inevitably the part that is the most work to fix is the roof panel. They tend to sag in the centers quite badly, probably because they are thinner than the walls and the most exposed to the sun. On several I've just replaced the whole thing. You mentioned that you're indoors, but I suspect that eventually they will bow down in the middle, wherever they are.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Center column between the doors is 2 inches

Locomotive door openings: 6 5/8 inch side to side. This measurement includes the room the doors take up when open as they pivot from the inside and swing out. Figure 7 1/8 inches overall width of the door opening with doors not in place.


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## Homo Habilis (Jul 29, 2011)

Randy:

Based upon your excellent build log and supplying the needed measurements I have purchased the shed and am in the process of assembling it. All is going well and I really appreciate having your experiences to draw on, so a big THANK YOU!

However I must respectfully disagree regarding your experience for


> The roof support purlings shown on the instruction sheets have the channels pointing up when in fact the roof panels and window panels only fit right with the channels pointing down.


The best that I can tell is that these are supposed to represent rain gutters and the holes on the ends are for an interior drain/downspout. Everything fits fine with them facing up as indicated in the plans though it was a bit of a chore to align the windows with them and to hold them in place during glue-up. I ended up make some falsework to hold them. I did find that they were about 1/64" too long and needed to trim them so the tops of the walls did not bow out.

My kit, just the shed, came with 3 tubes of the glue, lucky me. I used a combination of them and Beacon Adhesives Quick Grip contact cement. My structure will be indoors and mounted on a base so I did not need extra bracing on the walls. I did need to raise the building up by 1-5/8" to clear my 1:20.3 engines. All that is left is to figure out how to lengthen the bay doors. 

Also, I glued the roof panels together and used some of the gray sprue material for extra bracing along the seams as I wish to be able to remove the panels. Also, without this extra bracing the panels seem to want to sag in the middle and do not sit correctly on the gutters.

I too have extra parts but that appears to be intentional. This building shares some of its parts with others by Piko. It looks like they just include sprues that may have too many parts for this kit but the correct number for others. On the parts page they indicate this with the number supplied with an "X" over it followed by the number that will actually be used, i.e. 12x8x62015-0213.50 for the gutters, the 12 is x'ed over.

Once again thank you for this log and as I said it was of great help and inspiration.

Mark


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I would like a photo of how the roof looks with the channels facing up please. As for the doors, how about a piece of rubber attached to the bottom of the doors. Either cut out for the rail or left straight if there will be flooring between the rails.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

The gutters on my shed have the top flush with the brickwork.
Is this what you were after Randy?










Andrew


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes Garratt that's it. Looks good. I thought at the time the window frame needed to sit down in the gutter. But you have it sitting up on the edge of the channel and the walls. Thanks


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