# usa 44 ton build



## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I thought I would post a log on a usa 44 ton build I am doing 

other then repairs and handrails and such I am install hybrid dcc and sound along with working couplers and maybe better smoke units 


I started by giving it a test run with dc ... it did very poor 

so I took it apart and found all 4 axles where split












so I cut some sections of 3/8 brass tubing took the axles apart and pressed the tubing on the put the axle back together















and put the truck back together with new oil and grease 















then put the trucks back on the frame and jumpered the power back to the truck to test run it again 

this time it rain much better


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

It took me a second to realize why the rubber bands were there. Cool trick! 

Later, 

K


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## benshell (Oct 1, 2008)

Very cool fix. This is a pretty relevant thread. I was just trying to fix an old 44 Ton loco last weekend. One axle is slipping. It didn't look cracked though. I was thinking I might just need to glue the axle into that plastic part with the gear. I'm not sure what type of glue to use though.


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

once I set the back to back I taged them in place with bob smith tire glue


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

the next part I am working on is the couplers 

I am going to use the g-scale lionel electro coupler it is just like the smaller o-scale ones times like 1.5 in size and works well with the g-scale kadee














after a little fussing around I found that the bottom edge on the loco put the coupler at the right hight 

so I filled the spot with some plastic and drilled it out to hold a pin which I made from heavy wall tubing then I taped it to take a screw and glued it in place 














after drilling out the coupler to fit the pin 
I added some centering springs to the coupler and found a shim washer to help hold it in place 














as you can see this makes the coupler stick out a bit from the loco but with the power truck so close there is little else I can do 


so I will make a cover to hide it and make it look like it should be there 















this cover is made from two top halves of a kadee mount with the back cut out and them trimed down to glue together 



































































the wire for the coupler is run thru a hole to keep it out of the way


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

looking good! did you think about filing the arm where it hooks to the 
kd to match it beter you can see the little hook from the top but it is not cut out?


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

not sure what you mean ?


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

sorry I'm talking about the hook of the coupler


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

I understand now 

You dont want a hook on the coupler nor is it needed 

the coupler is electric and when open needs to uncouple from the kadee without problems . having a "hooked" end would make it hang up 

if your worry is in pulling a train with this coupler in its closed postion I have pulled hard on it with a kadee and it did not pop or unhook


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice job Scott! 

Any idea how much current the coupler electromagnet is going to use? Are you going to use any kind of timer or just manual on/off? 

Keith


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## Trains West (Oct 4, 2008)

about a month ago there was a thread in model making on kadee uncoupling where we talked about the coupler 

kadee uncoupling link


the draw at 9volts is like 3/4 of an amp

and at 14 + volts is like 1.25 amps 

but you just need a moment of power to get it to pop 

and I want it to work on f3 with the coupler sound so I'm going to charge a 4700 uf cap and discharge it to the coupler when I hit f3 also I am thinking I will use the direction lighting fuction to control which coupler will pop IE if going in the fwd direction the rear coupler will pop with f3 and in reverse the fwd coupler will pop with f3


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Scott...I missed that other thread. Very interesting!


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