# 1015U track isolation and switches



## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

I unpacked my old signals, they have track isolators with them. Is anyone still doing fancy wired track isolation schemes to control trains, or has everyone put those digital remote control things in? My goal would be to park one train and take the other out, then exchange again, without having to remove trains from the track. I have a station track set and a siding track set.


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

I, for one, have resisted the MTS way of railway life. Partly due to cost, and partly due to lack of interest. So I am one of those still doing things the old fashioned way. You can also accomplish what it is you want to do without the LGB insulated track sections, by using the plastic insulators made by LGB. Your best bet, if you don't already own one, is to get a copy of "The World of LGB" book. To me it has been a world of explanation and help.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

There are still plenty of us who still use the old tried and trued ways to run our trains. If it ain't broke, why fix it?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

To 'park' a train on a siding, I add the 12070 to the LGB EPL drive. On the bottom of the switch I remove the power to one rail near the frog, and then I make this connection only work when the siding is selected. 

Now 'parking' an engine or whole train is easy and painless and no isolator is used. Works for me.


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

FWIW Aristo also has plastic connectors for track. They might be easier to get and less expensive than the LGB ones. I'm sure either would work just fine.

Ed


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i too am in the oldfashioned group too. 

at the moment i am experimenting with homemade insulation gaps. 
(just cutting the rail(s), where needed, and filling the gap with silicone sealer)


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

The home signal has a 12070, so I've got that covered. You're talking about using the frog in a switch track also as an insolator? Are there wires or something to cut on the back of the track to break the normal electrical pass through?

Thanks guys! Im glad to hear I'm not the only one fascinated with the EPL stuff rather than the DSS.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

No, he doesn't mean the frogs. there are some little yellow plastic blocks to reemplace the original railconnectors.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

What I did was cut the spot welded brass jumper on the bottom of the switch and then solder wires to these and connect them to the EPL add-on unit (12070) and now my siding only has track power when the siding is selected. Now I can still use good strong rail clamps instead of the orange plastic joiners by LGB or the black aristo ones. 

I like clamps as they keep the rails aligned and in guage over time much better than the brass joiners.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

You can also use split jaw insulated joints they work very well and helps keep track aligned and together during temp changes. Later RJD


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## Axel Tillmann (Jan 10, 2008)

AS matter of fact the ProClamps are my top choice, becasue of the strong rail support they are providing.


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## Chata86 (Dec 5, 2010)

Actually maybe he does mean the frogs. The frog is the plastic triangle that doesn't move right? I looked at the back of my switch track today. Underneath the track, there are plates that conduct across the plastic sections on top. If you unscrewed that metal jumper plate, all the sudden you'd have a section isolator! Makes perfect sense if you've got the EPL switches there to disconnect that siding track line!

Have a look: 

http://fifengr.com/temp/DSC_1988.jpg
http://fifengr.com/temp/DSC_1987.jpg


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