# RDC-3 disassembly question



## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok! I got this thing apart for repainting but the front/rear sections are jammed full of hot glue that holds the windows, cct boards and wires in place. Is there a quick way to remove all this goop so it can be taken apart, sprayed and then reassembled? If not, I may just have to mask it all and that's both time consuming and very ineffective. 
Note: They never did fix that undercarriage confusion did they?


HELP!!










Thanks

Dave


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

There is no easy down and dirty way to to get the glue loose. Some folks have put in the freezer and then it will break off easier. I use a flat Axato blade and just keep picking away at it. Just time consuming. Did a GP40 and took a long time to remove the glue. Later RJD


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No offense, but that interior is really cheesy looking! It looks like it made of plastic the same thickness as a Kleenex! 

Do all those wires hang straight down from the roof into the aisleway? 

Thanks, Greg


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## Bill Swindell (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg, it is plastic. sis you expect sleet & vinyl seats? From Aristo? Just kidding. Some paint might make it look better. 

Here's my RDC-1 interior and I guarantee it's plastic..

Floor & Seats


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 06 Aug 2010 09:13 AM 
No offense, but that interior is really cheesy looking! It looks like it made of plastic the same thickness as a Kleenex! 

Do all those wires hang straight down from the roof into the aisleway? 

Thanks, Greg 

Yes. The interior is very poorly done. Something to be ashamed of producing in 2010.

See what can be done in HO an N scale. Correct colours on every detail as well.....

http://www.rapidotrains.com/sclbp.html

Anyway, don't want to start an argument about that. Enough already about the outside issues. The car isn't mine and I want to do a good job with what Aristo gave me. I'll add new realistic horns and detail the roof 'blister' a bit. My big concern is cleaning up the front and rear so I can paint it nicely.

Interesting that all the major sections unplug from the next except the battery connection. That has two black lines that solder directly to the main board. Front and rear. No biggy, but you'd think they'd install a plug connection there as well.

Below BC-33 but I'm doing 31.


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Those seats don't look real bad from a distance but in reality they are very bad for what is reported to be a modern offering. 
And all the wires (there are a lot of them) are nicely tied back and taped in place. One thing though. When you try to remove the main body shell you should remove the front and rear bulkheads first so you can untie the knot in the motor wires. Failure to do so could cause problems with wiring if you pull too hard.


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## dana (Jan 7, 2008)

Why not just keep it CanadianNAtional scheme as a restored and Leased railcar to WV RR? less work


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By dana on 06 Aug 2010 08:17 PM 
Why not just keep it CanadianNAtional scheme as a restored and Leased railcar to WV RR? less work 

My friend wants BCRail so BCRail it is. He bought the CNR scheme because it has one of the easiest to cover. I never liked the early CNR green/yellow scheme at all but I'm in a minority.


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Dave, 

what did you use to remove the paint, and how well did it work. 

Ray


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Wish I knew what to use. I started with a Scalecoat because they produce the recognized CN and BCR paint but that's the stuff I had trouble with . Never did before but now - BIG trouble. As soon as I put it on it stared to flake off. It really came off big time when I masked the beast for the second colour. It came off so easy that I used the Tamiya masking tape to remove the rest of the paint. How's that?

Then I used a Floquil white paint as an 'undercoat' because I've done that before but that didn't stick either. Ten I sprayed the whole thing with a Tamiya base coat as recommended by my LHS and that worked quite a bit better. Only a few loose spots. Finally I asked about something that would actually eat into the chrome and people suggested 'sand blasting' with baking soda. So I bought a new air brush for this test. I haven't tried it yet. I'm tied up with our local hobby show right now.

Soon find out though ;-) 
Dave


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I thought it was polished and coated aluminum, not chrome? 

I swear I saw a factory picture of people polishing the body extrusion. 


Greg


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes. 

Chrome was the wrong word but it describes what it looks like. Very, very smooth and highly polished mirror finish. Like chrome. Definatly aluminium though.

Dave


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It may be as simple as using a very strong solvent. I think that they are clear coated after polishing, since I've never seen one "tarnish", so this cannot be bare aluminum. 

It might be that you want to swab the area with MEK or Lacquer thinner, and get down into the grooves. 

Regards, Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't think there is any coating on the aluminum. I used straight laquer thinner to remove the lettering on my GN unit. The lettering came right off and the aluminum wiped clean as if the lettering hadn't been there. I think if there was a coating the laquer thinner would have affected that coating. And yes,the interior seats are really cheaply done. Mine is now running with Airwire,battery and Phoenix P8 sound. The incandesant headlights have been replaced with 5mm leds. I think I have put in more hours rewiring on this unit than any diesel I have done,but then again I want things the way I like it. Just waiting for some passengers to show up in the mail and then some decals from Stan Cedarleaf. Maybe a little weathering on the undercarriage.


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## bcer960 (Dec 27, 2007)

Paul, 

So you used the laquer thinner on the aluminium and plastic ends, or just on the aluminium?? 

Ray


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## dawinter (Jan 2, 2008)

The worst issue was with the plastic ends actually but the ends but the body was an issue as well. I tried to paint that green panel on the side of the front end (see picture) in order to apply the Dogwood logo but the green paint wouldn't stay on. The PineSol thing that's popular in smaller scales didn't help. I will 'blast' the thing with an air brush and baking soda as soon as I can. Take that!!


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## N1CW (Jan 3, 2008)

Guys[/b]

Take care if you run the RDC-3's with RDC-1's.[/b] 

Aristo changed the motor blocks so the -3's are 10>20% faster than before.[/b]
The -3 is a Race Horse and will leave the -1 in the dust.[/b]

Think about removing the motors in the -1'[/b]*s.*


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ahh. I just ordered my RDC-3 from Robby, but will speed match them... DCC.. almost as easy as MTH... (MTH is still easiest) 


Greg


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray,
Laquer thiinner on the aluminum only. I used some Scalecoat paint remover on the plastic with q-tips It removed the G.N. hearald and the number boards without hurting the paint underneath. Just dabbed it on and rubbed a little with the q-tips and wiped it off. Don't just let it set or it probably will start working on the paint.


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