# LGB rail joiners... Best method of removal and replacement



## gregg k (Dec 27, 2007)

Hi all,
Finally going outdoors, my LGB track is a variety of ages and some are oxidized. Cleaning/polishing the rails is self explanatory and manageable, what I'm wondering is what about the actual joiner attached to the track rail? I'm concerned about the "inside" of the joiners and how to clean that area, and I guess I would need to clean the side of the rails where the joiners would slide against. Would it be better to replace all the joiners? I was planning on using the SplitJaw over rail... as I write this I'm now thinking maybe remove all the joiners and use standard on rail joiners not over joiner would be best?

Additionally, what is the best method to remove and or replace the LGB joiners? They have that tab bent downwards and the tie tab preventing it from coming out?

Thanks


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There are several approaches that I use. If you don't want to reuse them, take needle nosed pliers and hold one side of the joiner and bend it out. You can usually then twist it out and off. If you want to save the joiner for future use, hold a wide bladed screwdriver up against the rail at the top of the joiner and tap the end of the handle with a hammer. The rail will slide backwards and you can then lift out the joiner. You will have to secure the ties to keep them from moving. I usually stand on the other rail.

Chuck


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

I've used a salt and vinegar solution in a bucket and put the end of the track in it for 30-45 min and the joiner and end of track are clean.


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

I dip rail ends and joiners/rail clamps into a small container of muriatic acid and then rinse with water. Makes them look and behave brand new. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and protective eyewear.

Doc


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Using a drift punch and hammer, drive the rails back out of the joiner. They are centre punched into a depression in the bottom of the rail. 
Lay the joiner on a vise, hit the remaining divot with the drift from the inside to fully flatten it. Clean and re-form. Put it all back together, set witha centre punch.


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## bf2468 (Jun 24, 2013)

I dip the end of the rail in CLR. Makes them look like new in a few hours.


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## Curmudgeon (Jan 11, 2008)

Posted By bf2468 on 31 Aug 2013 09:23 PM 
I dip the end of the rail in CLR. Makes them look like new in a few hours. Does it tighten the loose joiners back to the fixed rail?
Must be some potent stuff.

Usually when the need arises....corrosion has moved the joiners out a bit, the connecting and disconnecting, bending...they need to be tightened. I just did two boxes of them.


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## gregg k (Dec 27, 2007)

Thanks all,
So would you recommend using the joiners and SplitJaw OVER joiners or remove the joiners and use the SplitJaws rite on the rails? Yes its going to be outdoors


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I drill out the divit on the bottom, then I use a strong pair of pliers and just pull the joiners straight off esp on switches where you do not want to disturb the rails or stand on them. Switches need to be clamped in order to be removed for repair. Some of my switches have never been removed and have been in place since spring 2002. I never reworked these switches in any way, and of course they are LGB 16000's. 

I do give the pliers a slight twist when pulling.


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## Joe Johnson (Jan 2, 2008)

Gregg

Sooner or later track needs maintenance or changes are needed. One really nice thing about joiners like SplitJaws is that one can easily pull one section of track without any fuss like cutting a joiner apart. Never ran across a situation where I would use an over the joiner.


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## FlagstaffLGB (Jul 15, 2012)

Which ever method that you use to remove the joiner or substitute them with split jaw connectors, you really want a good method to keep them clean. When I was in Turkey (1994 and prior), lots of the military folks bought copper and brass items and then brought them back home. Since they didn't have a lacquer finish, they would tarnish. One trip I learned from a military buddy of mine was to use Wahl Clipper oil. Just keep it off the top of the rail (since you don't want to gum up the wheels or let them slip). Works for several years.


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## gregg k (Dec 27, 2007)

I do a lot of RC Float flying and use Corrosion X on everything! Has anyone tried brushing or soaking the SplitJaws in that stuff?


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

I just removed dozens of LGB type joiners from track to make my new loop. I replaced them with Aristo flat plate screw joiners. A bit of a pain, as they have a bent tab that prevents them from pulling out, and if I opened them up with plyers and pulled, sometimes that would break off the track clip. So I operated on the bent tab, bending it flat with a screw driver and hammer. Still opened the joiner with plyers, but didnt break off any more of the plastic clips. I used a brass wire wheel on my Dremel tool to buff the brass track prior to attaching the screw type joiners. I did not use the "conductive" grease this time as I have in the past. We shall see.....

Good luck 

Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry: How come no grease? 

Gregg: That Corrision X stuff looks pretty cool, I have been using marine grade stuff for a while... have you tried the "aircraft" version of it? 

Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, the conducting grease serves two purposes. First and foremost it helps keep air and moisture out. Both of those add resistance through oxidation of the metal surfaces. Second, the conductors help move the electrons through the rail joints. Chuck


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