# Accucraft 2-6-0 R/C



## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Okay, I know I said I wasn't going to delve into this until the Fall, but blame it on that darned glossy black paint that just _had_ to go. 

Anyway, Tuscarora RR #4 is currently in the shops getting detailed and painted, so I figured while I have her apart, I may as well go and put R/C into the cab. So, I'm looking for ideas from those who have tread before. Anyone have any suggestions on how they fit the servos into the cab? I'm using the mid-sized "micro" servos, as opposed to the "mini" servos, so they're a bit harder to squeeze into tight quarters, but I don't think it's impossible. I've got some ideas, I'd just like to see what others have come up with.


Later,

K


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## nadnerbster (Nov 19, 2009)

G'day,

I've done mine, posted in this thread: http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...spx#188581 Includes photos.


I found that the bracket for the Accucraft Ruby kit at http://www.RC-Steamers.com is ideal for the job. I simply extended the floor of the cab, attached the bracket to it, then attached the included servos to the throttle and reverser.


If you've got one of the models with a gas tank/water pump in the tender, you may find this way won't work as it will block the water/gas hoses - but you may be able to get around it, the servo bracket is reasonably compact.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

Soooooo, 

Kevin you make any progress? I'm curious what you're doing to what used to my first engine. Teri is still running well, had some problems with the throttle linkage which I shortened up a bit.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Kevin - Mind has a servo tucked into the back corner of the cab. standing up with the linkage facing the boiler and using a straight linkage to the Jbar.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

To close up this thread, here are some pics of my R/C servo installation: 

Throttle: 









That's a solid chunk of oak drilled to fit around the throttle. The servo is held in place witha metal clip (not shown). The screw tightens the clamp around the throttle, and the whole thing is very sturdy. The thin end sits just over the gas tank. My first thought was to attach it to that as well, but so far have not had need to. Throttle response seems to be very good with about 120 degrees of travel. I had it pulling 5 cars on my 2% grade the other day, and it was very controllable. 

J-bar: 








Again, a strip of oak is used as a mount. It's attached to the floor of the cab using two mounting screws that originally just held the floor to the frame. The servo is attached to the end with a screw and zip tie threaded through the wood. My only "gripe" with this installation isn't anything to do with the servo, but there's just so much bloomin' slop in the Accucraft reverse lever itself that it's not just a matter of "up for forward, down for reverse" using the ends of travel of the stick. You've got to find the "sweet spot." Ah well, I guess it's just realism. I probably could have made a new lever, too. At least I didn't have to drill through that darned stuff. Been there, done that, have the leftover nubs of drills to prove it. 

I'm updating my blog with photos of the finished locos. When that's done, I'll post a link. 

Later, 

K


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

*The blog* has been updated. Please enjoy. 

Later, 

K


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

Great looking weathered live steamer! 

Always like seeing your handy work Kevin, keep them coming!


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I really enjoyed reading your Blog Kevin. You have a fantastic looking engine there. I was entertained by the use of real coal both in the bunker and all over the engine! really looks like a hard working machine.


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

I was wondering you kept the Bronson Tate cab. I did want to say, the screw holding on the head light bracket were held in with nuts on the reverse side. If you take out the insulation underneath the smoke box you should have no problem putting another screw in there with a nut to secure it. Very very nice. Woodland Critteris running well but I did have one of the pistons unscrew it self from the cross head so I'm in progress of retiming it and the receiver did go bad. Other than that it's running great.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up on the nut. I'll take a look; maybe it just slipped down into the insulation or I can scrounge another one from my parts bin. On the receiver, I just bought that in December (Christmas present), so check with Del (G-Scale Graphics) to see if there's any kind of warranty. Dunno, but it doesn't hurt to ask...'course for $15 for a replacement, it may be cheaper to just replace it. Bummer about the piston rod, but you seem to have that covered. BTW, if ever you're inclined, Roundhouses larger cylinders are a screw-in replacement for those. You'll get a bit more power out of it. 

Later, 

K


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## StevenJ (Apr 24, 2009)

In time I may get the large cylinders but the engine has enough power to make it around my track easily, especially when the timing is 100%. I bought a replacement receiver already. I had a small question, where do you get your headlight reflectors? The one on the little RH popped out and I seem to have lost it. I can always sand down a scrap one until it fits snug. Great job with the engine by the way. I may need to send you, some day, my 4-4-0 for R/C installation and weathering.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Depends. On the 0-4-0 I sent you, the reflector is plumber's epoxy putty stuffed in the headlight and shaped with a marble. On #4 and EBT #12, I used reflectors from Bachmann headlights I had in my scrap box. I've also heard people have good luck with Mag-Lite reflectors of various sizes. Check the hardware store for el-cheapo flashlights, though with the advent of LED flashlights, they're getting harder to find really usable ones. 

Later, 

K


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Do you have any problem with the heat melting or otherwise damaging headlight parts?


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Not yet. The headlights seem insulated enough from the heat of the smokebox to where the plastic reflectors (Bachmann) and the LEDs in them aren't adversely affected. I've got this set-up in my EBT #12, which I've had under steam for 3 hours continuous. I think the Accucraft lenses are plastic as well. The ones with the plumber's epoxy are likewise unaffected. 

Later, 

K


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## Charles M (Jan 2, 2008)

For a heat resistant headlight reflector , cut the bottom end off of a CO2 cartridge . ( Empty of course ) . I used one from a Micronox torch , the oxygen bottle worked perfectly. These ends will fit the Brass box headlight castings from PSC . ( I think thats the manufacturer. ) You can polish them up very nicely on the inside of the curve . 

Charles M SA#74 ( #74 has arrived and it looks great )


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