# 1:8 Scale locomotive



## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I posted this over on the public forum, but there were no replies. It is re-posted here where there are more 1:8 modelers.
I am new to “my large scale”. I started off on the wrong foot by posting a reply on the 7.5 gauge thread in which I posted photos of my locomotive projects on someone else’s thread. I hope I’ve corrected it. I blame it on my enthusiasm after discovering Rangerjoel is also involved in a similar project. You see, I’ve searched high and low for someone who builds at 1:8 scale in wood. The closest I’ve come was the “Spur 80” project that was featured by David Fletcher. Spur 80 is an operating rail project out of Switzerland. It is built at a 1:11.5 scale and operates on an 80 mm gauge. The locomotives are beautiful works of art that run on electric motors and self contained batteries. To find out more, visit this link.* 4largescale.com*/fletch/d40.htm
I started out building a live steam locomotive in 1:12 scale and quickly found that I couldn’t afford all the materials needed. Just the wheel castings alone were more than my current project cost. My current projects are locomotives at 1:8 scale (same as rangerjoel). I build using mostly wood and some metals and plastics thrown in. I chose this scale because it is a standard live steam scale and my models will operate on 7 ½ gauge track available at most live steam clubs. (I’m not sure they would want a wood loco on their tracks) Anyway, I have 8 acres of land that would be ample for my own track. Although my models will operate using motors and self contained batteries, they will probably end up as display models. I have a complete workshop that includes woodworking and metalworking tools and machines.
My first model was that of a 4-4-0 camelback of the Reading RR. I chose a camelback because it was one of my favorite types, having grown up around the New York and New Jersey area, where a lot of camelbacks were used. 
Building the body, cab and tender were straight forward jobs, using common woodworking techniques and tools. Driving wheels presented a problem. I wanted them to have spokes, but I didn’t want to buy expensive cast iron blanks. I tried various types of hardwoods, but they wouldn’t remain stable after machining them. I hit upon Baltic birch plywood. I could fabricate them with the aid of jigs using a router and a table saw and finishing them on a lathe. They are quite strong and once painted, no one would suspect they were not metal. Thin bands of metal are wrapped around the treads and epoxied in place. The electric motor used came from a child’s sidewalk car. The tender is large enough to carry a car battery, but small lawn tractor batteries work well. The headlight and bell works. The drivers are sprung as are the tender trucks. I fabricated the tender trucks in the arch bar pattern, using ½ x 1/8 steel bar. Steel axles run in delrin bearings set into wood journals. The model is about 90% complete. Since it was my first model, there were things I wanted to do differently (learning curve). http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/...0_0382.jpg

My second model strays away from steam prototypes. It is a model of a Swedish State Railways electric locomotive, class Dg, 1-C-1. It has a bogie on both ends, 6 driving wheels, jackshaft/con rod driven. These locomotives were popular in Sweden due to their high traction. Power was from an overhead catenary at 15000 volts, 16 2/3 Hz. This particular class Dg engine actually had a wood body which helped insulate the engineman from the arctic cold. Later engines would be designated class Da for a steel body. I chose this prototype primarily for the wood body, but also because I grew up around electric traction, the Pennsylvania, NY Central, NYNH and Hartford and the LIRR. This engine would be the closest thing between a prototype and a model. Steam models driven by an electric motor is not very prototype, but an electric engine is.
I was able to use many of the same techniques used to build my first locomotive. Improvements in technique aside, new challenges had to be met. This project has taken me a year off and on. Sometimes, I ignore building for weeks at a time to concentrate on resolving construction details. I have had to design jigs to build many small details like louvers and window casings. Building in wood at this scale is easier than in the smaller scales. I can mill scale lumber more easily at this scale. A 2x4 at 1:8 scale measures 1/4x ½ (actually 3/16x7/16), a size that can be easily and safely cut on a table saw and is also structurally strong. The body is made from a 5mm door skin. The roof is built-up from common pine lumber. The windows have milled casings and a 3/32” Plexiglas pane slides into grooves in the casings. Lights on both ends came from cheap flashlights. The wheels were made from plywood with steel bands on the treads. Interior details include doors, seats, instruments, etc. The wheels are mounted on a ¾” dia. steel shaft that turns on delrin bearings and sprung journals. The jackshaft is chain driven from a 24V motor that came from a scooter. There is plenty of room inside for storage batteries. With 4 grandkids, I have plenty of motors and controls available for other projects. This engine is about 75% complete. It still needs painting and pantographs. The pantographs present a major challenge as I can’t find enough construction information on them. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/...hop001.jpg

One other thing I should mention is, I draw complete plans using Autocad©. My dimensions come from drawings and photos from books. I construct a scale for each photo or sketch. This enables me to accurately scale a photo or sketch. It’s quite easy to do. All you need is the full size dimension of some known object like a driver or wheelbase.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Pretty innovative ideas you have, thinking outside the box for sure! Keep us posted.


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## Dan Rowe (Mar 8, 2009)

Many thanks for the link to Spur 80 that is real eye candy. I am a little confused by your math as 1:12 is a smaller scale than 1:8, perhaps you ment 1' : 12" scale. 
I am not sure why batery powered locos would not be allowed on club tracks it seams like I have seen several batery powered locos in the pages of Live Steam. 
Dan


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

I am a little confused by your math as 1:12 is a smaller scale than 1:8

1:12 means 1"=1'-0" or 1/12 actual size. 1:8 means 1 1/2"=1'-0" or 1/8th actual size. Sorry for the confusion. I too have seen battery powered locomotives on steam tracks; not too many though. I feel that live steamers are purists and may not welcome someone who makes things out of wood. I appreciate what steamers do. It is quite a skill they possess.


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