# Calling all Alky experts!



## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I’m looking for assistance with my burner setup for my C-16 Alky conversion. If you haven’t read through the whole thread, it’s not required reading. I'm just looking for input here. 
How do the wicks on your burner act while it’s:
A) on the fan
B) on the blower
C) running with the throttle open
You would have probably had to have done this while the engine was on rollers unless you are very small and very fast.
Here’s what I’m seeing under my firebox.
While it’s on the fan, blower or engine draught, the wick furthest forward is barely lit; the flame cannot be seen without turning off the lights. The next wick back can be seen to be lit with the lights on, but just barely. The third wick is within ¼ inch of the end of the boiler and the flame can easily be seen coming from the wick and being pulled to the firebox cavity behind the flues. (I believe the third wick is doing the most work.) The fourth wick flames straight up into the aforementioned cavity.
I designed this burner without the help of any actual knowledge or information, so I expect it to be flawed. My design was as follows: “how many .44 magnum shells fit between the frames – 4”, end of design phase.







How much gap should there be between my wick / tube and the boiler? 







Should those front wicks be lit up as much as the rear ones? Maybe my supply line needs to be bigger?
I’m probably going to build a new burner anyway, but if you have input, (based on fact, observation, calculation, opinion or even S.W.A.G.) let’s hear it!


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Run a second supply line from the sump to the front burner tube to feed the set from both ends.


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## JEFF RUNGE (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave, yes all burners should be about the same. What kind of wick material are you using? With the openings in the transfer tube on the top, you may have wick material packed down into the transfer tube blocking the flow.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

I have noticed that as the alcohol level in the tank drops, the wick furtherest away from the supply starts to burn less and can go out. Make sure that all wicks have had time to soak up alcohol before you fire em' up. Also, even though it is a chicken feed type system and the alcohol valve does not do much I will still open it a few more turns later in the run. I have made these observations while running the Aster Mike.


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## Steamboil (May 12, 2009)

Posted By seadawg on 17 Mar 2010 03:15 PM 
I’m looking for assistance with my burner setup for my C-16 Alky conversion. If you haven’t read through the whole thread, it’s not required reading. I'm just looking for input here. 
How do the wicks on your burner act while it’s:
A) on the fan
B) on the blower
C) running with the throttle open
You would have probably had to have done this while the engine was on rollers unless you are very small and very fast.
Here’s what I’m seeing under my firebox.
While it’s on the fan, blower or engine draught, the wick furthest forward is barely lit; the flame cannot be seen without turning off the lights. The next wick back can be seen to be lit with the lights on, but just barely. The third wick is within ¼ inch of the end of the boiler and the flame can easily be seen coming from the wick and being pulled to the firebox cavity behind the flues. (I believe the third wick is doing the most work.) The fourth wick flames straight up into the aforementioned cavity.
I designed this burner without the help of any actual knowledge or information, so I expect it to be flawed. My design was as follows: “how many .44 magnum shells fit between the frames – 4”, end of design phase.







How much gap should there be between my wick / tube and the boiler? 







Should those front wicks be lit up as much as the rear ones? Maybe my supply line needs to be bigger?
I’m probably going to build a new burner anyway, but if you have input, (based on fact, observation, calculation, opinion or even S.W.A.G.) let’s hear it!
I like to try and keep about 1/4 to 1/8 in gap between the top of the wicks and the boiler. The goal is to have enough distance to allow the fuel and air to mix while still keeping the flame on the boiler. Next, make sure the wicks are not packed tight! 

Next, I noticed that on my home made burners, the larger burner tubing seem to help out too ( Most of mine use tubing around .374 OD/9.5mm and .30ID for the main tube line) This may seem to be a huge size for burner tubing to most steamers, but it has worked great for me. The fuel has plenty of room and allows other fuel types to be used also. While I use 1/2 in copper tubing for the wick tubes themselves. Furthermore, I do not use holes in the main tubing, but prefer to cut grooves instead. They seem to not get clogged as much as the holes can.

As for firing. All the burners should be consistantly lite, and should not be glowing red hot. If they are, then this usually means they are being starved for fuel. I know this may sound funny, but please remember, you want to burn fuel and not the wicks themselves. The flame should be pulling smoothly, but strongly into the flues at every stage of running (fan,no fan- blower, running). There is not set amount, just keep trying till you find a good mix. Furthermore, I like the pot on the tender to keep the fuel level up to about 4 mm from the top of the burners wick tubes. But in the end, all engines are different, and you will want to spend time fine tuning your engine to get the right set-up that works right for your particular engine.

Just my thoughts, and Happy steaming,

Tom S.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave: Your boiler requires the flame to make two tight turns. 90 degrees to the back, then 180 thru the flues. You may need a little more height from the wick to the bottom of the barrel. Maybe 1/2" or so. Looking closer at the first post the feed line look too thin. The front pots are getting starved. A "run-a-round" tube as C.T. mentioned is good to go.


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## Taperpin (Jan 6, 2008)

Steve, 
few things, 
[1] distance above wick tubes to boiler min 1/2" ideally 3/4" 

[2] wick material above tubes 1/4" to 7/16' 

[3] feed tube along wicks 3/16" dia.. 

[4] wick tubes 1/2"dia 

[5] ratio of air grate to top of wick tubes 3 to 1 ie: wicks top area 2square inches area through which air enters [firebox bottom] 6 square inches.. 

These ratios work well with Type "C" boilers [whcih is what you have built..] 

Gordon.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Gordon, 
With regards to your number 5. 
I have always thought based on locos that I have owned or seen that what you say is correct. 
However, with my recent ownership of the Accucraft Royal Hudson, I was surprised how well the burner works when they have a plate on the base of the burner, allowing air to enter around the perimeter with just a slit. 
Next time I have the loco out, I must calculate the actual areas of the two and see what the ratio is, but wouldn't be surprised if it is nearly 1 to 1. 
Would you like to theorise as to why it works so well. 
I should point out that it is NOT a "C" type boiler, but I would not think that that has anything to do with it. 
All the best 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Taperpin (Jan 6, 2008)

David, 
Iim not sure but I fairly certain there is a relation ship between the flue cross sections and the wick/grate ration.. 
type c boilers with 2 or 3 large flues have a very low resistance to gas flow but smaller multiple flues have higher ..I would expect the air speed through that "slit" would make plenty of turbulence as it turned the corners and passed the wicks. 
and it certainly works! I made up a manometer with smokebox fittings and tested a few locos some years ago..the results where that our Type C boilers with low gas friction need a very small depression at the front end..around 2mm maximum..but I have not had the chance to test The CP HUdson. 

Gordon.


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## Pauli (Jan 3, 2008)

I am not among the most experienced of people, but I will still share this, wich was also the experience of another builder of 3 Aster Alky's; It's extremely important not to pack the wicks to tight. In fact, the word "pack" leads in altogether the wrong thougts. Just put enough wick material into the holders, so that the wick material just barely stays into the cups (your casings  if you turn the burner uppside down. I would rather start off with too little wick material, and then add a little to optimize. (Actually, I'm speculating that some of the flame is just based on heated alcohol fume, rather than anything coming from capilary action by wick material. As for wick material, when I built my Aster P8, I thoroughly tested steel wool, glassfiber felt (what you are using) and conventional fabric wicks. I found that conventional wicks gave the best flames, operated best - and gave superior fuel economy! 

Keep us uppdated!


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

All right! I got some great responses and I'm going to try a few of these suggestions tonight and this weekend. Here's a bench test of the burner before I even assembled the firebox. Do I have too much flame? Maybe. If you know the length of a .44 MAG shell you'll know those flames are about 2 - 2.5 inches tall.









Here's a shot with flash. In both pictures the two wicks I'm having issues with are the ones on the right. Maybe I need to trim them back a bit? Is unburned alcohol reflected by the burning sensation in my eyes?


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## Taperpin (Jan 6, 2008)

Steve, 
I would have expected to see all 4 wicks the same hieghtand standing about the same as the second from the right hand end [maybe a little higher..flames look ok.. 

 gordon.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe you already mentioned it earlier, but what are you using for wick material??


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## SCSteamer (Jul 24, 2009)

Is your burner at the same level or lower than the outlet of the fuel sump ? (If higher, could lead to fuel starvation) 
Is your fuel feed a chicken feed system ? If yes, is the needle valve getting clogged with contamination in the tank ? Only a small particle can clog the outlet. 
Do the holes in each cup point down instead of up ? Having them down reduces the chance of wick material blocking the hole. 
Are you using refractory wick material ? It doesn't glaze like fiberglass. 

Regards, 
SCSteamer


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are answers to most of the above questions:
I’m using “Oatey Flame Protector”, I’ve been told it’s glass fiber felt. (Anyone know where I can get the wick material like what Aster is supplying?)
I don’t believe it’s clogging the transfer tube or being fuel starved because when I over fill the sump, burning alcohol drips from all wick tubes.
Tom, when you say cut grooves in the fuel tubing what direction are you cutting and where on the tube? (Sorry, that’s a question not an answer.)
I don’t believe the wicks are packed too tightly, if anything maybe too loose.
The burner tubes are a little lower than my temporary sump (seen in the pix below), I can flood all wicks while it’s burning.
No chicken feed yet. 
So here’s what I did Sunday afternoon:
My temporary sump / tender had only been connected by silicone tubing and I was fairly sure it would not pull much of a load, so I broke out my trusty bonsai wire and hooked them together. Nothe the pressure on the gage! (Just a tick under 55 psi.) 









Here’s a shot of the whole test rig. Four skinny bricks on some HLW flats, the alcohol can would not stay put and needed to be removed. I could have dragged even more weight.









The results of the test:
The engine had no issues pulling that load, I’m not sure how the load compares to my rake of AMS rolling stock with ball bearings installed but it’s probably more. The pressure started around 45-50 by the time I got the condensate cleared. The blast pipe seemed to blow a steady exhaust but there may be room for improvement on that end of the loco. The pressure slowly dropped to 25ish, but then was maintained. I stopped, topped up the boiler, brought the pressure back up and launched her off once again. This time the pressure dropped to about 30 (I had closed the throttle a bit, on my C-16 opening the throttle doesn’t make the engine go any faster, just uses more steam.) and stayed about there. I believe I would rather have the pressure stay around 40 but this engine will run just fine with this heavyish load at 20 psi.
I believe I still might have an issue with the burner as I have the two most forward wick barley poking up from the tubes in order not to chase every man and beast away from anywhere near the front of the loco due to the fumes. It really seems like either the front portion of the burner has not enough flame space when the wicks are trimmed higher or not enough air is getting in. I also did some comparison to the S-2 burner and the spacing on mine is quite large compared to the S-2s. I’m planning on building two new burners, one with all the tubes a little shorter, another with only three tubes.
I don’t have a good picture of the completed firebox but here’s a picture of the completed burner in the first prototype burner. The actual firebox has nearly the same dimensions just mage with thicker brass and lined with ceramic cloth.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Some comments...

1. You really NEED to implement a chickenfeed sump. The alcohol will always overflow the burner cups if you get enough to fill them or you will starve them if you don't have enough fuel flowing. Trying to get the feed valve adjusted to allow in the amount of fuel that is being burned is neigh onto impossible. The chickenfeed will make that adjustment for you automatically. The only thing you need to do is make sure the feed vapor-lock tube is at the height of the top of the burner tubes.

2. From the photos I think I see that you have the holes in the cross tube to the burner cups facing "up". The wicks will fall into that hole and clog them. Remake the burner assembly to turn that tube over so the hole is on the bottom in each burner cup.

3. Yes, Sunnyside alcohol is FUMY! and has actually come very close to putting me on the ground when I got a good (BAD!?) whiff of the gasses coming from the stack. I recommend you try S-L-X alcohol as it is (marginally) better... Sunnyside has more odd denaturants than S-L-X. or at least that used to be so; today the EPA and other regulatory agencies seem to be meddling in the brand formulae such that they all require the same "denaturants" and thus the products become more alike and I think S-L-X is being required to add more of whatever is in Sunnyside that makes it so "potent" smelling. Before there was a Home Depot near me all I could get was Sunnyside. Then one day I found 4 cans of S-L-X at a "surplus store" and tried one gallon... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!... I went back and bought all the remaining cans and used that exclusively until they were gone... then I just didn't run my engines for a while... now I can get S-L-X and I can run again... but the last time I steamed up I noticed the smell was worse than it used to be and that has be worried that the formula has changed (and not for the better). Ideally I'd like to try some straight 200 proof "grain" alcohol (ethanol, not Methanol), but the (booze) taxes would definitely prohibit doing that on a regular basis!


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## Steamboil (May 12, 2009)

Posted By seadawg on 23 Mar 2010 08:22 AM 
Here are answers to most of the above questions:
I’m using “Oatey Flame Protector”, I’ve been told it’s glass fiber felt. (Anyone know where I can get the wick material like what Aster is supplying?)
I don’t believe it’s clogging the transfer tube or being fuel starved because when I over fill the sump, burning alcohol drips from all wick tubes.
Tom, when you say cut grooves in the fuel tubing what direction are you cutting and where on the tube? (Sorry, that’s a question not an answer.)
I don’t believe the wicks are packed too tightly, if anything maybe too loose.
The burner tubes are a little lower than my temporary sump (seen in the pix below), I can flood all wicks while it’s burning.
No chicken feed yet. 
So here’s what I did Sunday afternoon:
My temporary sump / tender had only been connected by silicone tubing and I was fairly sure it would not pull much of a load, so I broke out my trusty bonsai wire and hooked them together. Nothe the pressure on the gage! (Just a tick under 55 psi.) 









Here’s a shot of the whole test rig. Four skinny bricks on some HLW flats, the alcohol can would not stay put and needed to be removed. I could have dragged even more weight.









The results of the test:
The engine had no issues pulling that load, I’m not sure how the load compares to my rake of AMS rolling stock with ball bearings installed but it’s probably more. The pressure started around 45-50 by the time I got the condensate cleared. The blast pipe seemed to blow a steady exhaust but there may be room for improvement on that end of the loco. The pressure slowly dropped to 25ish, but then was maintained. I stopped, topped up the boiler, brought the pressure back up and launched her off once again. This time the pressure dropped to about 30 (I had closed the throttle a bit, on my C-16 opening the throttle doesn’t make the engine go any faster, just uses more steam.) and stayed about there. I believe I would rather have the pressure stay around 40 but this engine will run just fine with this heavyish load at 20 psi.
I believe I still might have an issue with the burner as I have the two most forward wick barley poking up from the tubes in order not to chase every man and beast away from anywhere near the front of the loco due to the fumes. It really seems like either the front portion of the burner has not enough flame space when the wicks are trimmed higher or not enough air is getting in. I also did some comparison to the S-2 burner and the spacing on mine is quite large compared to the S-2s. I’m planning on building two new burners, one with all the tubes a little shorter, another with only three tubes.
I don’t have a good picture of the completed firebox but here’s a picture of the completed burner in the first prototype burner. The actual firebox has nearly the same dimensions just mage with thicker brass and lined with ceramic cloth. 












Hi,

Remembered some more things:

The grooves should be cut about half way through the tube. Such as, how a stock Accucraft gas burner is. However, only use one or two grooves, and aline/ (twist) it so the bottom part of the groove is almost at the bottom of the wick tube. I tryied to post a picture, but it does not seem to show. If you want my email, let me know in a personal message, and I can try sending pictures/drawings that way.

As for the sump, I would make it smaller, and have the top end at the bottom of the tender, and aline the main wicks to just above that height, so if you use manual fuel feeding, you will know where to stop filling the sump every time. Personally, I like the manual feeding systems better than chicken feeds, for the wicks can be strarved for fuel if everything is not perfect ( track not perfectly level) with the chicken feed. Also, with the manual feeding, I have more control over the fire, so if I see a wicks starting to strave for fuel, I can add a little more manually. On the other hand, if my safety valves are continuesly poping off, then I can lower the fuel levels too. It takes practice, and you must be very careful not to over fill the sump, but it has many advantages. Furthermore, if you choose to use a manual system, for safety, I would make a double sump, to catch any overfills too. 

I like Accucrafts wick material the best, but my Aster's material works fine too. Accucrafts' can usually be purchased through Cliff at Accucraft service dept, and come in sheets that can be used for lining of the smoke box too. I have not used it on the fire box, for I braze the firebox to the boiler, so the dry firebox heat is not wasted. 

Also, if you having trouble standing close to the engine while its being fired (eyes burning), than your burners are usually becoming to hot, and so, the fuel is vaperizing in the wick tubes.

Happy steaming,

Tom S.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave: Sounds like it is getting there. Good news. As C.T. mentioned, the next step is a bird-feeder drip set-up. They are not hard to do. I've made two according to Keith Butchlitch plans for his "Brazil" loco. They work great.

Here it is:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/xo...Supply.JPG

Here is another alcohol feed system I want to try some day. It is more of a siphon, rather than a traditional brid-feeder drip. It come from the great Henry Greenly:


http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/xo...Burner.jpg


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Bob, 
Not too sure about Mr Greenly's one. 
If you initially overfill the tank = overflow = FIRE 
If the wick material is too efficient = overflow = FIRE 
If the wick material doesn't siphon enough = starvation = no go 
So, I would imagine that it will be a challenge to find just the right way to suck up the fuel at the right speed. 
But very interesting! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Dave, 
I would suggest that if the fumes are that bad you are definitely not getting the right mix of air and fuel. 
I would have more wick poking out the top of the burner tubes (3/8") and make sure that they are not too close to the boiler. 
This will probably mean that you have to cut down on the height of the burner tubes. 
As long as you will eventually control the height of the fuel in the sump this will not be a problem. 
Can you temporarily just mount the burner a little lower to test this theory? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 23 Mar 2010 04:46 PM 
Dave, 
I would suggest that if the fumes are that bad you are definitely not getting the right mix of air and fuel. 
I would have more wick poking out the top of the burner tubes (3/8") and make sure that they are not too close to the boiler. 
This will probably mean that you have to cut down on the height of the burner tubes. 
As long as you will eventually control the height of the fuel in the sump this will not be a problem. 
Can you temporarily just mount the burner a little lower to test this theory? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 


David, I'm suspecting exactly the same thing, improper mixture. I believe it's a "flame space" issue (if that is a real term). When the wicks are down close to the tubes, very little fumes, but not much heat. I was going to create a couple of different style burners last night and broke two 2mm taps used for creating the bushing on the front of the supply tube to keep the burner in place. I was bummed. No more taps. Tonight's mission, try to get the burner situated under the boiler with a little more flame space. I'd rather not mod the only burner I have, which is somewhat functional, unless I'm reasonably sure that hacking the top of the tubes off will cure it.

And yes, the sump will be designed after the burner is functioning well.


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## SCSteamer (Jul 24, 2009)

Dave, 

If you are still looking for strand refractory wick material, send me a message, I can suggest where to get it. 

Steve at PiedmontSteamSupply dot com 

SteveB


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry for the gap, I got a little distracted. Here's a peek but I'll most likely cover more on this in a new thread. It's green, it's British and it burns small black rocks. (REAL small rocks, the firebox door is tiny, but the grate is huge!)


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I started to build the two different burners and rapidly broke two 2mm taps. I currently have the parts soaking in an acid bath so that I may be able to use them in the future. So I needed to figure out how to get the current burner to work. I first tried to trim the wicks down real low in order to allow for more complete combustion. I do realize that what free burning wicks do, compared to what happens when they are fitted into the firebox are two completely different things. Here’s what the trimmed down wicks look like while burning free.









It looked like I would get more complete combustion with the wicks trimmed down, and I did. But there was no real improvement except the ability to not have to stand too far from the operating engine (Burning eyes).









My next test was to figure a way to have the burner lowered in the firebox before physically altering my only semi-operational burner. I improvised a way to clamp / balance the burner about ½ inch lower than it’s normal position. And low and behold good flame, in the firebox was bright and blue and the fumes were not burning my eyes and making me choke. With this test satisfactory and backing up some theory mentioned earlier (Thanks David!), I proceeded to hack a bit off of the wick tubes. I decided to remove only ¼ of an inch and test it, then if needed I could remove more, to equal the distance of the improvised test. 











Here you can see the results of the free burning test with the wicks trimmed high after the shell casings were trimmed by ¼ inch. There is a fair amount less combustion going on that my original test a page or two back. Successful bench testing called for another test run on the track. (We used to call it a shakedown cruise in the Navy what did / do railroaders call a trial run after overhaul?) 











A couple days later, it’s off to Wayne’s track to do some serious testing. This time I brought *SIX* bricks along. I trimmed the wicks a lot lower than what is shown in the above picture, more in line to Gordon’s suggestion. After lighting off, the pressure came up well. I let the safety lift, cleared the condensate from the cylinders, let the safety lift again and let her go.







It walked away with all six bricks and would probably drag more. The pressure dropped to about 40 and stayed! I can close the throttle and the engine will slow it’s pace and the pressure begins to rise! Only if I bring the throttle down and have the loco crawl around the track does the pressure climb enough to lift the safety. All without needing any blower at all. 










I believe this has been a successful test run and I am very satisfied with the current setup. Now it’s time to reassemble the detail parts on the loco and restart the process of converting the real tender to chicken feed. 
Many thanks to everyone for tips, tricks and information![/i]


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## livesteam5629 (Jan 2, 2008)

We used to call it a shakedown cruise in the Navy what did / do railroaders call a trial run after overhaul?) 
A shake down run....what else. 
Glad to see you have success. 
Noel


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## Slipped Eccentric (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By seadawg on 31 Mar 2010 09:00 AM 
Sorry for the gap, I got a little distracted. Here's a peek but I'll most likely cover more on this in a new thread. It's green, it's British and it burns small black rocks. (REAL small rocks, the firebox door is tiny, but the grate is huge!)









Ohhh, do tell. Can't wait to see what it is. Some parts look familiar...


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I would suggest that someone has a Gresley V2 Atlantic that is coal fired. 
Perhaps from the Martin Evans drawings? 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Sorry, I didn't mean Atlantic!!!!! 
It is of course a Prairie - 2-6-2! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 31 Mar 2010 08:16 PM 
Sorry, I didn't mean Atlantic!!!!! 
It is of course a Prairie - 2-6-2! 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 


HOW DID YOU DO THAT??? 








(Is my 1970's Aster coal fired engine ready for delivery?)


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Dave, 
I think that the first coal fired gauge 1 loco that I saw running was a V2, probably in the late 70's, at a G1MRA event. 
I recall that the owner would check the fire and put a few more bits of coal in, and it would run for something like another 20 minutes before he had to do the same again. 
It was a wonderful runner. Such a nice size of loco. 
Enjoy. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
p.s. No sorry, they've all gone now!!!


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By David Leech on 01 Apr 2010 12:07 PM 
Dave, 
I think that the first coal fired gauge 1 loco that I saw running was a V2, probably in the late 70's, at a G1MRA event. 
I recall that the owner would check the fire and put a few more bits of coal in, and it would run for something like another 20 minutes before he had to do the same again. 
It was a wonderful runner. Such a nice size of loco. 
Enjoy. 
All the best, 
David Leech, Delta, Canada 
p.s. No sorry, they've all gone now!!! 

The one you saw in the '70s may have been this one! This one was steaming well and running well until it came to turning. It did not wnat to turn left or right. It seems as if the frame mounted rear truck did not have enough swing and the track is capable of hosting large Aster engines. Second and more problematic issue, (I seem to be hijacking my own thread.) after stopping for more coal and allowing the steam to rise to pop-off, I opened the throttle and heard a strange sound I've heard before and the engine started to not run very much at all. The sound was exactly like the time I did not have an Accucraft Goodall valve fully seated and the oring popped and made a strange squeal / hiss sound. I got some work to do....


P.S. I thought I had got on the list rather early!


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