# New LGB Starter Set... Stops



## bazzerbees (Dec 9, 2016)

I'm new to model trains and got an LGB starter set (72400) with Stainz locomotive for under the Christmas tree. It's a new set, clean, flat, clipped tightly, standard R1 circle.

I want to run the train at slow speeds around the tree and just leave it running for long periods of time. However, if I try this I'm finding that train will eventually come to a stop. It usually takes about 5-10 minutes to happen. I have to keep the train moving at a pretty fast clip to prevent this stopping from happening (running it faster and louder than I'd like, with the controller about halfway to max and 5-6V on the track).

I have a multimeter and don't see any evidence of voltage drops from bad track connections. The train seems to run fine at normal/high speeds. It draws about 1/2 an amp most of the time. The controller gets pretty hot during operation.

My questions:

Is this normal? I'm familiar with the physics of static friction/torque/DC motors, so I don't expect to be able to run at insanely low speeds. I did expect to be able to run a "calm" pace around the tree.

Will these stalls damage the locomotive if I'm not around to give the train a push right away? From what I've read, the current goes up when the motor isn't turning.

Might this be fixed by upgrading the power supply / controller? The starter set comes with something that feels pretty cheap. It doesn't have very fine voltage control, and I'm assuming it drifts with temperature. I was hoping not to spend hundreds on a fancy supply just to make a train go slowly on a tiny track 

Thanks for any feedback in advance! I'm happy to troubleshoot anything I might have overlooked here.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

You have voltage on the rail when the train stops?


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## bazzerbees (Dec 9, 2016)

Yes, still voltage when the train stops, but it's reduced to maybe 2V. If I kick the train back into motion the voltage rises back to the original 4 or 5 volts.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

Clean your track rail with a green scotchbright pad. 
Make sure the slider contacts are free to move up and down along the rail. Sometimes they get stuck.
Better with a 1 amp (20VA) starter controller rather than a 0.5 amp (7VA) starter controller.
Try running only 3 cars or less. 

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

This sounds like either a bad motor, or the side rod alignment is off causing the motor to draw too much current. In my opinion it can not be dirty track as the poster said he got the proper reading of track voltage after he got the engine moving.
Small power packs by LGB had a thermal cutout but the poster said there was 2 volts ob the track when the engine stopped which makes me think it is an engine problem.
And speeding up the engine can make the alignment issue go away as there is more power to push past the lock up of the wheels/gears from the misalignment/bad quartering.


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## bazzerbees (Dec 9, 2016)

Thanks for the replies. I know it's tough to diagnose stuff over the web and appreciate your inputs. I'm happy to report that I found a fix today. Posting what I found in case it helps others who have the same issue:

I did a little more sleuthing with the multimeter and found that if I stalled the loco by hand, it was drawing ~ 3/4 Amps. The DC transformer that came with this set is 14V 850mA. That seemed suspiciously close, so I dug around the house and found a wall wart from a bluetooth speaker that does 12V 2A. Lo and behold, the train has been crawling around the tree for the last hour without interruption!

What was happening? I suspect when the locomotive was slowed for any tiny reason (causing the motor's back EMF to go down, current to go up) it was thirsty for more current than the starter set transformer could provide to keep turning over. The issue doesn't show up at higher speeds because the motor stays at higher voltages and lower current.

I'm a little surprised that LGB would cheap out on the transformer like this. It probably saves them, what, 2 cents on a $300 set versus using a 1A or 2A plug? Cutting corners on starter sets does not seem like a great idea, as it might turn new eager customers away from your brand, or even the hobby altogether.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

It's a curious finding, for sure. I have two LGB starter sets, and I've pulled considerably more cars than come in the set, up to the point the ability to pull is limited by traction of the locomotive to the rail, and not encountered such a problem.

I'll need to check my part number over the weekend, but my sets are recent Stainz passenger sets with smoke and sound. I recall the power supply being 1 amp - these are the new European standard that separates the transformer from the throttle.

It did strike me initially that 5-6 volts was far too low to operate.


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## Garratt (Sep 15, 2012)

LGB have used various starter set controllers over the years in both 110v and 220v. Some are dedicated locomotive controllers and others have a second output for accessories (4 terminals instead of 2). Usually the ones without the accessory output offer more amps to run the loco. 50081 / 50080 are a dedicated 1 amp (20 VA) starter controllers in the respective AC supply voltages. Around 750 ma is the typical stall current of single small locomotive motors so it is all right on the edge of failure with some of the smaller controllers. 

Andrew


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I still think it is the motor in the engine as I test all my single and dual motor LGB engines on the old 7va power pack. Model 5003/110.


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I'd really suspect dirty wheels/sliders. If the track is clean and you get a constant voltage around the loop, your problem is not the track or the joints. But small specks of grime on the wheels and sliders might be enough to lift the wheels away from the track. At low speed that's about all you need do to stop the train. I too have run four and five car trains with the LBG starter packs. I use one to operate my Christmas tree train at relatively high speeds, though. At low speeds the engine does seem to want to stall out.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Also a touch of graphite on the track will help, it will allow the wheels to slide on the circle easier.


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