# Split Jaw Rail Joiners question



## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Good Morning,

I have LGB track and was considering changing out the LGB rail joiners for the Split Jaw Rail Joiners. Are the Split Jaw Joiners worth the money and, what benefits, if any, are there in using them over the standard LGB Joiner?

Thanks.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have found that over the years the brass rail joiners occasionally fail. I think that there is enough movement over the years through thermal expansion and contraction of the rails to loosen the joiners. There are three methods that I have used. One is split-jaw clamps and the other two involve using screws through the joiner and the rail.

One method involves using 0-80 stainless steel nuts and bolts. A hole is drilled through the joiner and rail.




















The other screw solution is to drill two holes down through the joiner and the foot of the rail and use # 4 self tapping stainless steel screws. You will note that the screws can be seen under the joiner at the joint at the top of the picture.










Rail clamps are a probably easiest, but they are more expensive.

Chuck


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Chuck,

Thanks for your input. To be honest, I am not all that comfortable drilling holes in my track so I might take the "easy route" and get the split jaw clamps.

Also interesting to see the gap you have between your rails, something else I should probably take into account as well.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The gaps just happen. I probably didn't push the rails together all the way. Nothing deliberate!

I wouldn't worry about drilling Code332 (LGB) rail, but I wouldn't do it on 250 or smaller rail. Drilling is easy on brass rail, but I think that it would be difficult if you were using stainless steel.

Chuck

Aristo and USAT track already has holes drilled through the joiner and the rail. I don't like their screws, too small, so I drill through their hole and out the back side of the rail joiner and use my 0-80 screw and nut. With their system the rail joiner is only drilled through one side.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

All my joints have split-jaw joiners (except a few here and there with standard joiners to allow for expansion). I've been pretty happy with them--they keep the track together and ensure conductivity. Though I do have feeders about every 10 feet... It's nice not to have to worry about rails coming unjoined or conductivity issues. I really only have to check the eight or so sets of standard joiners periodically.

As Chuck said, gaps are bound to occur. As long as the two pieces are held firmly they're not a big deal. And they make for a nice "clickity clack" when the metal wheels cross them


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Thanks guys,

Think I am convinced to go with the Split Jaw Joiners, especially if they help conductivity. Now all I have to figure out is how to get the LGB standard joiners off 

As for the "gaps", I don't mind them infact I ensure that I have gaps at least with my HO layout anyway. Needless to say, my G Gauge does have gaps, primarily on the curves and only on one side, which makes sense I suppose. I just didn't want them opening up too much, hence my considering the Split Jaw Joiners.


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

There are two different types of rail clamps. Over the joiner (easy/lazy) and direct on the rail (more difficult/ better joint?). I have a mix of both types. LGB joiners are hard to get off, so they get an over-the joiner clamp on my railroad. Joints that I have custom cut get a direct-on-the-rail clamp. 

There are a few different manufacturers of code 332 clamps....shop around a bit. Split Jaw is just fine, but I'm looking forward to trying the low-profile Piko clamps next.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

wombat457 said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> Think I am convinced to go with the Split Jaw Joiners, especially if they help conductivity. Now all I have to figure out is how to get the LGB standard joiners off


If they're like the Piko joiners, they have a "dimple" in the bottom that you can drill out. Then it's just a matter of sliding the rails back out of the ties and pulling them off. Some people just use pliers to open them up and then brute-force them out, but it's easy to damage the ties if you do that


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

There are three ways to remove the LGB joiners.

1). Get a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend the sides back so they are aren't curling around the rail. Tip the joiner down about 45 degrees and slide the tab out of the tie. This destroys the joiner.

2) drill out the dimple on the bottom of the joiner. This will let you slide the rail back and easily remove the joiner for future use. You may have to drill out any dimples along the rail that holds the tie strips together, to be able to slide the rail.

3). Similar to #2, secure the track to a hard surface and then put a large flat bladed screw driver on top of the joiner and against the end of the rail. Give the handle of the screw driver a sharp tap with a hammer. This will usually drive the rail back enough to lift out the joiner. This will not work if there are joiners holding tie strips together on the longer track sections, such as 1060s.

I am not a fan of the over the joiner clamps.

I favor #1 as I don't have much use for rail joiners.

Chuck


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

s-4 said:


> There are two different types of rail clamps. Over the joiner (easy/lazy) and direct on the rail (more difficult/ better joint?). I have a mix of both types. LGB joiners are hard to get off, so they get an over-the joiner clamp on my railroad. Joints that I have custom cut get a direct-on-the-rail clamp.
> 
> There are a few different manufacturers of code 332 clamps....shop around a bit. Split Jaw is just fine, but I'm looking forward to trying the low-profile Piko clamps next.


Thanks for the information. The Split Jaw Clamps were the only ones I had heard of until now - cheers.



riderdan said:


> If they're like the Piko joiners, they have a "dimple" in the bottom that you can drill out. Then it's just a matter of sliding the rails back out of the ties and pulling them off. Some people just use pliers to open them up and then brute-force them out, but it's easy to damage the ties if you do that





chuck n said:


> There are three ways to remove the LGB joiners.
> 
> 1). Get a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend the sides back so they are aren't curling around the rail. Tip the joiner down about 45 degrees and slide the tab out of the tie. This destroys the joiner.
> 
> ...


I have actually just been playing around with one of the short 450mm (?) sections of LGB track. With that, the rails slid backwards easily for the joiner to come out. Prior to that, I tried the "brute force and pliers" option and that merely caused frustration so think I will go the "drill the dimple" route then slide the rails backwards.

LGB is the same as Piko from the sounds of it, as they both have that little dimple to contend with.

Thanks again guys and sorry for the "newbie questions" - you guys must get tired of hearing them.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't worry about the questions, that is what we are here for. I just wish that there was something like this 35 years ago when I started out. If it was, I wouldn't of had to make all the mistakes that could be made. I could have saved some for others!

Now, in order to make a previously unknown mistake you would have to be REALLY GOOD.

Chuck


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

I have played with HO for I don't know how many years and still make "mistakes" with that. I thought making the move to G Gauge would be a simple thing - apply the same principles to G as were applied to HO and all would be good - it quickly become evident that wasn't the case, so this is yet another learning curve.

I also am thankful that sites like this are around, and more thankful that there are people prepared to help us newbies make a start and, hopefully, not make too many mistakes in the process.

Rather than start another thread, can I ask about cleaning the track - brass LGB. I've seen a lot of track cleaning cars and read a lot of thoughts on keeping the track clean but the one thing I have not yet seen is someone using *Brasso* 

Is there any reason that people don't use Brasso? Seems to me that it would be the perfect thing seeing as it is made, specifically, for cleaning brass.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

One answer might be hands and knees. Unless I'm mistaken it is a cotton wadding in a can, that needs to be rubbed by hand.

I use a green Scotch brite pad on a dry wall sanding pole. I can walk along the track and push the pad along in front of me. It takes about a minute to clean my 90' mainline.

I have an LGB track cleaning engine, but I rarely need it. 

Some use a swifter pad on a pole. There are other options out there. 

The important thing is to never use sandpaper, no matter how fine the grit. It is too abrasive and will scratch the rails. Scratches attract dirt and lead to worse problems down the line.

Chuck


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Chuck,

Thanks mate ... I'm on my hands and knees now with paper towel and alcohol so that side of it doesn't bother me. I like the idea of the Scotch Brite Pad on a drywall sanding pole though - that sounds quick, easy and a heck of a lot more comfortable!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

All SJ SS joiners, I remove the LGB joiners using #1 Chuck method.

Very happy years later.

Greg


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

Eight years ago when I built my new layout I replaced all remaining rail joiners with SJ clamps and have had no continuity problems since. I use a pole sander with Scotch-Brite pad like Chuck's for occasional cleaning. I also have an engine with an under-mounted pad for routine cleaning.

Doc


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Greg and Doc,

Thanks gents, split jaw clamps it is. Thankfully, I only have about 140' of track with only about 50 sections to do.

Doc,

May I ask what type of under mounted pad you have please and whether or not it can be mounted to any make of engine/rolling stock?

More questions, sorry guys.


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Not sure if this is the right place for this, so apologize if it isn't, but here is a schematic of my layout:


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

This is my U25B with the Scotch-Brite pad (block) mounted between the engine's trucks. The block is made from a block of oak with some lead weights glued on top. The block is free to move up and down on the pins at each end. Also, because the cleaning block is mounted between the trucks, the block can swing out on curves to make sure both rails are cleaned. I've been using this track cleaning engine for over 10 years.











If you want to see more details let me know.

Doc


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

Doc, thank you - I'll take a look at this U25B cleaner unless anyone.


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Quick comment about Brasso. Based on using it in the Marines and Army I know that if you don't buff out every little seam or crack a white residue will build up. I used the Brasso in the can not the one with soaked cotton swabs. But if you LIKE to hand polish the rails on a frequent basis it does make them shine.


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## wombat457 (Jul 15, 2015)

fyrekop said:


> Quick comment about Brasso. Based on using it in the Marines and Army I know that if you don't buff out every little seam or crack a white residue will build up. I used the Brasso in the can not the one with soaked cotton swabs. But if you LIKE to hand polish the rails on a frequent basis it does make them shine.


My military experience is where I got the idea to use Brasso, and you are 100% right - it will leave a white film of not properly polished.

Since my original post I have bought a Drywall Sanding Pole and a million Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Pads. Got to say, only took me 10 or so minutes of using this set up to get my track clean as a whistle, Quick, easy and cheap 

It works so well, and so quickly, I run it over the track before each session but also squirt a little alcohol on it as well.


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