# transformer/power supply



## jj026 (Sep 19, 2015)

I am finally getting everything set up on my g scale layout. I am using app. 100 feet of track, and going with a simple starter set train. What would be a nice transformer/power supply to use? (with out breaking the bank) Thanks.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

really depends on the locomotive, the smallest LGB can run ok from a 1 amp supply and larger trains from other manufacturers will draw 3 amps with no grades, with grades or longer trains the needs go up. 

So what loco are you getting, what grades will you have, how many cars would you like to pull without buying a new transformer.

Greg


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Just wish I could find a replacement TE transmitter so I could use my 2 10-Amp Ultima Power Packs and the two wireless receivers. Mine went belly up about a month ago{electronics gone bad}, it's the ART-5473 Black case TE with rubber ducky antenna. 

I don't need an entire setup just the TE transmitter, but I have been completely unsuccessful to locate one anywhere and I've looked and searched. Nor could I even find the power pack with the fan that attaches to the Ultima, lost one in a move  and the other went bad, so I have no way to use these 10-amp power packs. 

Currently what I'm using is a CMI {Chicago Model International} power system, blue series, 40 M called " The Sounder" power pack, it works great for my LGB 0-4-0, just not so great when I start adding lighted cars, sound cars, a second loco, or a USAT GP38 with Sound. Just doesn't seem to have enough power to run everything. This power pack came in a USAT Christmas Passenger Set.

Looked at the new Crest system which would work, but that is way too far out of my price range at the moment.

And Aristo isn't repairing or selling replacements for the old TE set up I have and I don't really want new items, just an old, used Art-5473 TE that maybe someone isn't using any longer and would either give away or sell cheap. Anyone got one lying around collecting dust?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Cataptrra said:


> Just wish I could find a replacement TE transmitter so I could use my 2 10-Amp Ultima Power Packs and the two wireless receivers. Mine went belly up about a month ago{electronics gone bad}, it's the ART-5473 Black case TE with rubber ducky antenna.
> 
> I don't need an entire setup just the TE transmitter, but I have been completely unsuccessful to locate one anywhere and I've looked and searched.
> 
> And Aristo isn't repairing or selling replacements for the old TE set up I have and I don't really want new items, just an old, used Art-5473 TE that maybe someone isn't using any longer and would either give away or sell cheap. Anyone got one lying around collecting dust?


You didn't ask me. 

I have a later style transmitter (A-F) that seems to work, but the membrane is missing a chunk near the center . The membrane switches still work.

I also have an Ultima power supply I would let go.

PM me if interested.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

like to hear from the op and his locos and needs.

Orville you might want to start a wanted thread, rather than jump on a newbie's thread about what transformer he needs.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For just 2 receivers, you only need the 2 channel made in china transmitter or the 10 channel/10 frequency model.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I really like my Model Rectifier Corp. 10 AMP Power Supply. It easily powers 4 USAT F3s.

While you may be starting with a small starter set, you will very likely end up wanting something bigger. If you can afford the extra cost now you'll save money later. New ones are $225.00. You can find good used ones on Ebay around 125-150.00

http://www.reindeerpass.com/model-rectifier-corp-10-amp-power-supply.aspx


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I do too, and I own one, but he said "without breaking the bank" and it would seem expensive to someone starting the hobby.

It does not seem expensive to me after all the underpowered, crappy units I tried to use and they failed in one way or another.

Recommended, definitely

Greg


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## Mark_s (Jun 24, 2013)

I don't know how big it has to be to break the bank but there is a Bridgewerks Mag-15 on E-bay now:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridgewerks...148038?hash=item36054cb886:g:V~IAAOSw-4BXYkcS

Should be more than enough to power you through several expansions of your RR.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That is a power supply only, no throttle/speed control or reversing switch.

That is even more money when paired with a throttle.

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Greg touched on this in his first post, but for practical purposes--given what you've written you're looking at doing (one loco, 100' or so of track) you don't need a brutish power supply. "Back in the old days," (i.e, before we had 5 and 10+ amp power supplies for large scale) we got away with using HO power supplies. These weren't "starter set" power supplies, but on the order of 20VA ("volt-amps") or so. (A 20VA pack would deliver 1 amp at 20 volts, and 2 amps at 10 volts, so goes the theory.) We used an MRC "Tech2" power supply for 7 or 8 years before we completely changed over to batteries. At the time, our railroad consisted of 250' of track with 4% grades. For 1 and 2-motor LGB locos, it proved adequate. 

Having said that, I would say that's an option only if "not breaking the bank" is a financial necessity. Quite honestly, if you're going to do track power, a quality power supply is an investment, money well spent, and--in the grand scheme of things--not that out of line with the other expenses you will encounter. Consider the MRC 10-amp pack recommended in the posts above. That will set you back between $150 - $225 depending on where you get it. That's cheaper than many locomotives, and at the cost of track today, about the same as 20' - 40' of track depending on which type of track you use. And it gives you reliable, filtered DC power with enough capacity for a locomotive or three, passenger car lights, and accessories. 

If that's not an option, then start small and save for the larger pack down the road. A power supply for the workbench is always a good thing to have, so your first pack will not be money wasted.

Later,

K


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

My bench DC power is the LGB 5003/110. It is a smallwapower source and if engines run on ths then I know they are drawing low current ad I do not need to meter then current.
I can run dual motor engines with lights and operate pantographs when changing direction with this supply. Rating is a mere 7va!!!!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK, this is where the OP (original poster for you JJ) steps in and helps further "bound" the desired solution.

What is the budget? What locos?

Help us help you.

Greg


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## Cataptrra (Mar 16, 2015)

Greg Elmassian said:


> like to hear from the op and his locos and needs.
> 
> Orville you might want to start a wanted thread, rather than jump on a newbie's thread about what transformer he needs.


That's why I also sated what power pack I was using for my current layout. Hence this section I had put in my post: 

"*Currently what I'm using is a CMI {Chicago Model International} power system, blue series, 40 M called " The Sounder" power pack, it works great for my LGB 0-4-0, just not so great when I start adding lighted cars, sound cars, a second loco, or a USAT GP38 with Sound. Just doesn't seem to have enough power to run everything. This power pack came in a USAT Christmas Passenger Set.*"

Although I don't know if this power pack is available today, but the reason I like it has a Dial-A-Gage knob, so it can run anything from N to G Scale trains, it also has a switch that lets you choose momentum {which is my favorite aspect of this power pack} or standard straight power, reversing switch and a braking switch {another nice feature of this power pack}. It just doesn't have enough oomph though to run more than an LGB 0-4-0 Stainz with fan driven smoke unit, an AristoCraft Ball Bearing motor block with older PSS '97 sound card and will run illuminated cars if they are L.E.D., but have 2 or more cars with incandescent bulbs or try to run a USAT GP38-2 w/PSS '97 Sound installed and you're over taxing the power pack and usually shuts it down after a very short amount of time.

Other than those issues, it's actually a nice power pack. I'd just rather be able to use my 10 Amp power packs since I like to run larger loco's and multiple incandescent lit passenger cars with the GP38-2. But 3 of them and that loco, instant shut down. That's the only reason I had added the other info about needing a ART-7453 TE transmitter in the post, just in case someone may have had one available and someone does. Wasn't trying to hijack the thread, sorry if it seemed that way, was not my intention.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

You can use the LGB 5009 which takes a controlled supply output like your present power source and add a second 2 amp DC power source to the 5009 and get up to 4 amps (2 amps max per input). Of course you would need a 2 amp dc supply to feed the 5009. Lots of hardware but it would give you more power and use the original power pack features.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, almost 2 weeks later and JJ026 has not responded, so I guess we answered his question.

Greg


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