# New to G scale...should I paint track?



## Dave Vollmer (Dec 14, 2013)

Hello,

This is my first post here. I'm brand-new to G scale but have been a scale model railroader most of my life. Currently my main focus is my N scale PRR/Conrail layout (http://thevollmerfamily.com/Pennsy/), but I've been bitten by both the G scale bug and the Colorado narrow gauge bug.

I'm planning a backyard railroad based on the Rio Grande Southern, which has been a closet passion of mine for over 20 years. I recently had the very good fortune of being gifted a huge collection of Aristocraft, LGB, and USA Trains brass track. I only needed to purchase a few extra new pieces of 8' curve to complete a loop. That said, the used track is in varying states of oxidation which I'm cleaning with Scotchbrite pads (at least on the railhead). The ties are, as you'd imagine, a mix of browns and blacks with various discolorations. Here I'm test-fitting the track indoors. It'll eventually go outside.










Coming from the scale model railroad community, I'm used to painting sectional track to make it look more realistic. Moreover, I'm interested in tying in all the different track types into what should look like a continuous right-of-way. I test shot a single 12" section of LGB track with Rust-Oleum primer (which I'm starting to think is too reddish), and compared it to one of the other oxidized pieces:










Now, I noticed very few outdoor G scalers seem to paint their track. Yet my inspiration was a pair of very nicely painted used 3' LGB sections at my local hobby shop. So I know it _can_ be done. My question is, before I potentially ruin a huge collection of track (which currently looks kinda ugly already), _should_ I continue with painting the track? Pros? Cons? Thanks in advance!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Welcome!

I think painting is way too much like work! If you're planning track power, you'll need to mask or scrape off all the ends (or solder feeder leads beforehand.)

Personally, I would put it down and expect natural weathering to dull it and improve the uniformity. A prototype railway would have a mixture of ties, as they degrade and need to be replaced (though admittedly that would be random in a way sectional track isn't.)

Do you have any specific plans for your railway? on ground with ballast, a raised platform ...?


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## Dave Vollmer (Dec 14, 2013)

For now the plan is to float it in gravel... Not sure how long we'll live here so I don't want to go too permanent.

As for the electrical connection, I understand. That's essentially the same challenge we have indoors. As for work, well, there's no such thing as too much work when one's headed for realism. I enjoy weathering everything:




























I live in Colorado at 6,800' so I know UV is a but stronger up here. Part of my motivation is to help protect the track. I want to make sure I'm not missing something that you guys know that I won't coming from N scale.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I think large scale track usually has UV protection in the plastic - though I did see some comments recently that some lots of track (from Aristocraft, if I recall correctly) were defective in this regard.

Do you want to go with brass code 332 sectional track? Now's the time to think about sectional or flex, what material, and the size of rail. There's not right or wrong answers, but some are more conducive to certain objectives.

I'm currently looking to buy my first live steam model, and will probably build a small outdoor railway this summer. I'm going to use code 250 aluminum, which comes in six foot flex lengths. But, this is probably the worst choice for track power.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave,

Welcome to MLS.

Many of us paint our track for various reasons. Most use Rustoleum "Rust" spray paint as you did on your sample. I am modeling in 1:20.3 finescale Fn3 narrow gauge. When I started in the hobby thirty years ago, LGB code 332 (rail is .332" tall) (the track you painted) was about the only track available and I have a lot of it in storage. I am now using aluminum rail code 250 (.250" tall) and looks great with standard or narrow gauge. Aluminum almost HAS to be painted to look good. Something to think about before you go OUTSIDE with your layout. You could probably remove the LGB brass rail from the ties first and then paint. Just wipe the top of the railhead before the paint dries.









This photo was taken last spring at Russ Rutalj's layout (MLS member). He runs BOTH narrow gauge and standard gauge trains. The track is Sunset Valley code 250 with NG ties. The front loco is my 1/20.3 Berlyn Workgoose #6 and the rear engine is Tommy Mejia's RGS Accucraft C-19. Both engines are battery powered, so aluminum is not a factor as far as electrical conductivity. NOTE: these rails have not been painted.










This photo is one of Paul Burch's layout (another MLS member) showing the same Sunset Valley aluminum rail code 250, BUT he has painted the rail. BIG difference. AND look how well the code 250 looks with standard gauge equipment. Paul also uses battery power.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Dave,
Regarding painting the track I would offer the following:
Brass rail will oxidize to a dark grey/black appearance over time, giving I fair representation of rusty rail. The tie strips on the other hand can be problematic. Over time UV will deteriorate almost anything. Recently our club has noticed considerable deterioration of SOME sections of tie strip. Our layout is primarily ArisoCraft track with a smattering of USA flex. All of this track is sold as 'UV Resistant' and warrented by the manufacturer. However this does not do much good after the manufacturer has gone out of business. The current thought process is to paint or otherwise treat the tie strips to add additional protection against UV degradation.
I agree with Big Red that if you are going track power, don't paint the rail. It will make electrical connectivity difficult at best, unless you are going to solder jumpers. The top of the rail will need to stay clean to allow proper conductivity to power locomotives and cabeese lighting.
I will also offer an unsolicited piece of advice. When going outdoors and laying your track - ALLOW FOR THERMAL EXPANSION!!! Look here for a post I did on expansion.
http://forums.mylargescale.com/16-track-trestles-bridges-roadbed/25407-laying-track.html
Bob C.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Dave..you might consider trying a camo brown color for your ties..there are a couple good rattle can colors for rust also...I have even played with "Paprika" & "Cinamon" to add some blended change to the base rust color...I'm working with AL. code 250 also...

Details are in the eye of the beholder!! YOU!!
How much "work" you do is up to you..what gives one pleasure .may not be pleasureable to another....

And for your elevation ...I might consider a couple over spray coats of UV protection...

Looks like you enjoy Your Narrow Gauge trains!!! Great going...

Dirk ...welcome to MLS..it may become your 2nd home!!


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Gary,

That's a nice photograph of the SP train. Looks very realistic with the ballast up to the top of the ties like that.


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## Dave Vollmer (Dec 14, 2013)

So you've got me on the fence, LOL... Painting the track is very little work. Removing the paint where the electrical connections go...well that _is_ a lot of work.

Hmm...

In terms of letting the track weather on its own, if it looks anything like the green and white speckles that are on the rail now (I think they were in a basement that flooded), it doesn't look as much to me like natural rust as I might like.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Lol...they make some really nice blue stuff called painters tape..
Usually used to cover areas...not to be painted!!

Work...
...naw...

Dirk. ...then do touch up...!


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Dave,
I would agree with you based on what you have in your possession. I won't be at the club until the 19th, but will take pics of what we have that has been in place 5-6 years. I believe that the coloration you have shows another additive chemistry other than natural weather.
IF you install jumper wires to each end of each rail section prior to painting, then the electrical might not be so difficult. But adding four wire attachments to each track segment could be a bit time consuming, depending on how much track and how long the segments are. That said, the smaller wires will be easier to solder and maintain than trying to maintain electrical connectivity through sliding joiners that collect mico dirt particles that inhibit electrical conductivity. Rail clamps are great and maintain conductivity, but inhibit expansion allowance, unless you are going to float the track in ballast.
Decisions, decisions ......
Bob C.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

I guess this brings up another question, which is whether people who paint track do so before or after setting it up?

From what I know of painting, it is necessary to have a clean, prepped surface, which tends to imply painting prior to installation (since installation will expose it to dirt.) That suggests a need to have masked off the ends of the rails and inside surface of the joiners - which is a mountain of work no matter how you look at it! 

Alternatively, if you paint the track in situ, then only the top of the rail (and presumably point mechanisms) need be clear of paint.


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## ewarhol (Mar 3, 2014)

I'm comparing this to N scale and HO scale track laying for Dave and I. Would this work in large scale?

1) Lay the track

2) Wiring

3) Paint track

4) Ballast

5) Run Trains!!!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

BigRedOne said:


> I guess this brings up another question, which is whether people who paint track do so before or after setting it up?


Paint the rail first, rail only. Remove the ties before painting. Paul Burch (NOTE the photo above with the SP diesel on his layout) has a "system" for doing his painting and has passed it on to me. Just stack the rail one on top of another, maybe 6 high, threaded through 3 or 4 nails. This holds the rail stacked vertically. Spray the side of the rail only and then wipe with a rag saturated with thinner. Do this within a few minutes of painting and you get a nice rusty weathered look and a shiny railhead. Just like the prototype. Very easy and very quick.


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## btbrush (Feb 9, 2014)

Not to hijack this thread, but speaking of track, I'm looking for G scale track wth a realistic cross-section to use on some MOWs I'm building. I know about Piko but would like to find something a little more billfold friendly.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Dave,

If you are worried about the electrical connection you can always go to battery.
Then you don't have to worry. No wiring at all !

Don


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## Dave Vollmer (Dec 14, 2013)

After some reflection, I decided for now to do what I can to remove the oxidation and leave the brass bare. I wire grill brush applied carefully in the rail web does wonders. I am careful not to scratch the railhead. The railheads are polished with Scotchbrite pads. So far it looks (and runs) a lot better.

I've also been playing with upgrading a trainset grade Big Hauler by replacing the chassis with a Bachmann Annie chassis. Now she's ready for weathering. Her air tanks have been shortened to clear the steam chests on the replacement chassis, her whistle, bell, and pop valve have been painted brass, and she has a new coal load made of aquarium filter carbon.


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

btbrush said:


> Not to hijack this thread, but speaking of track, I'm looking for G scale track wth a realistic cross-section to use on some MOWs I'm building. I know about Piko but would like to find something a little more billfold friendly.


It sounds like you want either aluminum or plastic. Aluminum rail from Llagas Creek or Sierra Valley. I know some of the toy sets have plastic track, but I'd guess they are molded to the ties, which sounds like a real pain to cut apart.


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## btbrush (Feb 9, 2014)

Thank you, B R O. I will check out those companies. At this point I'm just looking for rails which look realistic, be brass, plastic or whatever. These will be just for a load on my tie and rail car, so cutting off ties would be labor intensive but a means to an end.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Train-Line-USA is a sponsor here. They offer rusty-colored plastic rail for display that should work for your project. Look under their track selection on their site for "display track." It is sold in multiple five foot lengths, but you could use any extra as track for your "shelf queens."

Hope this helps,
David Meashey


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Train-Li plastic rails are separate form the ties (which are concrete version) and the ties are available in several colors.
Also, the rail is available in 18 foot lengths which for display purposes would eliminate rail joiners and gaps.


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