# Brand new idiot!



## taaronbennett (Dec 11, 2012)

Hello out there!

I'm very, very new in the modeling world, and know absolutely *nothing* about electronics.

I have a problem with the sets that I have.

I purchased the LGB rudolph starter set and a custom set with a Steiff engine as well as a few small passenger cars.

The problem I'm having is the transformers.

They just won't work

They'll start up fine, run for 20 min, then overheat and shut off.

One of them is the 1 amp grey starter set controller, and the other is a black 1 amp transformer with seperate controller.

Is this normal?

Please help the new idiot...

Thanks!!


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Several questions.


1. Are you running both engines at the same time?

2. Does one or both have a smoke generator?

3. Do the cars have lights?

The engines will draw between 0.75 and 1 amp, without smoke and lights. Smoke and lights add to the power draw on the power supply. The LGB starter power supply usually handles one single motor LGB engine. Most other starter set power supplies usually over heat. My recommendation is to get a power supply with a minimum of 5 amp out put with 20-22 volts DC.

If you are going to run longer trains with larger (two motor engines) most of us would recommend 10 amps.

Chuck

PS: Dont sell yourself short. We all were there once.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Welcome!

I will try to do some basic trouble shooting, but that is hard because I am not familiar with what may be in your purchase. First, the gray starter set power pack is most likely only 1/2 amp. Second, does the second power pack have two parts (a black "brick" connected by wires to another box with a control knob)? If so, it is also a starter power pack, and probably only rated at 1/2 amp. If you have a lot of lighted cars or just mildly tarnished rail heads, the power consumption may be sufficient to cause these relatively lightweight power packs to overheat within the time frame you mentioned.

The gentlest way to clean the rail heads (for now) would be to use some rubbing alcohol (no oil and low water content) and a soft rag, such as an old teeshirt. Try running your locomotives alone to see whether the cars (if lighted) are consuming too much power.

Also, how old are the locomotives? Sometimes the grease gets hard and the oil on wear points, like axles and drive rod joints, has evaporated. LGB locomotives should allow you to turn the wheels gently by hand. See whether there is a lot of resistance to hand-turning. Hardened gear grease will put a strain on the motor. Remember to use a plastic-compatible oil (such as LaBelle) for lubricating.

There are folks here with more expertise, but this will give you a starting point.

Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Synthetic Automotive oils are plastic compatable and a lot cheaper by the quart than the 1/2 oz. I like Mobil1, 'cause I get it at costco. 

I suspect your 'custom set' is overloading your Starter packs. 

John


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## taaronbennett (Dec 11, 2012)

Thanks for the replies!

The starter set I have is the rudolph 94775 set (tiny engine). Purchased it used on Ebay.

The "custom" set is the 24211 Stieff engine (standard Stainz) with four of the small dated christmas cars on it. (All purchased new)

Yes, the other transformer is a black brick with detached red controller.

Both are run seperately on seperate small circles.

One circle is all new brass track, the other used/slightly tarnished.

I've tried all combinations of switching the transformers/engines to the other tracks, and I get the same result.

I just remember as a kid my dad having one under the tree that was a much larger circle with the grey transformer, and it never did this.

Is buying new transformers my only solution? Why do they even make these if they don't even work on the simplist of layouts?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

The only answer is that they do and yes, sadly, you should upgrade your power supply. Chuck


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## taaronbennett (Dec 11, 2012)

Thanks Chuck

I heard alot about Bridgewerks. Should I go with one of those?

Is MRC any good? They seem pretty cheap on ebay, but most are listed under other scales. Will they still work on G scale?


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have three Bridgewerks; 3, 10, 15 amp. I am very happy with them. The two higher ones have a remote (one built in and one an add on unit) for radio control. If you are only going to run one, one motor engine at a time, the 3amp should work. There are others out there, but I don't have them and can't make an informed comment. What ever you get make sure it has the amps and volts you need for LARGE SCALE trains. Power supplies for smaller scales usually lack both the amps and volts. Chuck


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

It really depends on what your plans are. 

Bridgewerks make great power supplies but they're not cheap. 

I use the MRC 10 amp transformer, but even it cost around 200 bucks and will only run one train. 

These can be had in the 40 -50 buck range, but I don't like them myself as they don't live long when larger G gauge trains are powered off of them http://www.ebay.com/itm/MRC-TrainPo...578344?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item20dbccb0a8


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I just had to see this thread. 
The more you know, is the more you KNOW you don't know.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

As an addendum to my earlier post, I have 4 other power supplies. Most just couldn't handle the larger engines and trains. It was a learning process. Go with the most power you can afford. Without adequate power your future expansion plans might bog down too. Chuck


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Do they offer a basic Electricity or Electronic course at the JR Collage near you ? Take it helps a lot.

Take comfort in the fact you wont be a Idiot for ever. Stick with us. 

JJ


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## taaronbennett (Dec 11, 2012)

Thanks everyone! 

Looks like I'll probobly go with the Bridgewerks. 

I found a nifty website that teaches basic electronics http://101science.com/ 

I'll probobly search around there a while to see if I can get an understanding on how this works. 

Thanks again for all your help! 

Tim


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds good. One other thing you need if you are serious about learning about basic electron movement is a multimeter, measures volts resistance and current. Radio Shack has some for under $30, last time I checked. If you are planning to measure current put a fuse in the lead. Mine will handle up to 10 amps, but it doesn't have a fuse. You could blow the unit if you pull more. Chuck


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

There is a 2 piece LGB set that only had a 14 volt 1/2 amp wall plug-in transformer, but the speed control was the 20 volt 1 amp unit that is also sold with the more powerful separate transformer that has 20 volts at 1 amp. And the grey unit did come in a 7va (less than 1/2 amp) and had 4 contacts on the rear whereas the grey 1 amp unit had only 2 rear contacts. 

One can never have too much power when running trains.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Tim, 

Just to add another option to consider, I use track power (24v DCC), and am very happy with the system. The DCC gear is from NCE, the power supply is a very cost effective Meanwell unit (S-320-27): 
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_693581_-1 

Also, I've been helped immensely by Greg Elmassian's site: 
http://www.elmassian.com/dcc/my-implement 

Have fun, 
Cliff


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

How about George' s kickoff pages on power. http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips5/power_tips.html ?


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