# Project Cheap Geep. 1/32 New-Ray gp35 mod log



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok so this will be a very slowly progressing mod log of converting the 1/32 New-Ray Lights and Sounds Diesel into a somewhat acceptable 1 gauge model gp35
Yes this is technically "Polishing a Turd" but in all fairness they do make jewelry out of fossilized Dino poo.

Day one: Receiving the toy and taking some before shots.




































Ok that's it for today. More to come.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wonder who in the world decided to put spoked wheels on a diesel? that is crazy.


----------



## Colin Stewart (Jan 28, 2008)

I had one of those a few years with thoughts of the same plan to make a 1/32 gp35. Whilst it looks the part once you compare it with a drawing you'll find its been selectively compressed. For mine I felt it was too much work to achieve the end result I wanted, so sold it on. 



Collin Stewart


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Colin Stewart said:


> I had one of those a few years with thoughts of the same plan to make a 1/32 gp35. Whilst it looks the part once you compare it with a drawing you'll find its been selectively compressed. For mine I felt it was too much work to achieve the end result I wanted, so sold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> Collin Stewart


Yep. Thats something i felt was too much for me to try and correct as well. so im going try and ignore a lot of the incorrect areas


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Wonder who in the world decided to put spoked wheels on a diesel? that is crazy.


 I know LOL i guess its just a transplant from another toy in their product line.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes interesting, at 1:32, what do those wheels scale out to? Anywhere near the prototype?


Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Yes interesting, at 1:32, what do those wheels scale out to? Anywhere near the prototype?
> 
> 
> Greg


Well the bogies seem to be a modified recasting of the Lionel Large scale diesel so scale wheels would be about 1.20" - 1.24"
A aristocraft NW2 motorblock will line up with bogies but the wheels would be a tad too large . Holes can be cut in the frame for the Lionel motorblocks.
Still exploring options in this area.

Interestingly the box that holds the wheel sets is roughly the same size as the Lionel motor block.
Some of the similarities between this engine and Lionel engines is too strong to be a coincidence.

After dwelling on it.... i think the spoke wheels are intended for children so that they can enjoy the wheel movement when playing with it.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, I mean measure the wheels and multiply by 32 and see how they match the prototype which is 40".


In 1:32 this would be exactly 1-1/8" in diameter.... (oops 1-1/4")



So what do they measure?


Greg


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Should be a good project and is a good way to build your skills with scratchbuilding, adding details and kitbashing to be closer to real. Many years ago I started off with a Life-Like HO GP38-2 and modified it until I was happy.


----------



## bmwr71 (Jan 30, 2010)

The ebay listing always says they can be motorized. Must be true if it is on fleabay.

Doug


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Decided that the molded in horns are Unacceptable and will have to go.









So i fabricated a new horn set from some brass screws and scrap


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Frustrating .. I had hopes of using these aristocraft RS-3 blocks ... but they are even longer than i thought, nearly an inch too long.








I can do one of four things.
1. Modify , with some great effort, and shorten these blocks.
2. Find some Alco bogies (yuck)
3. Find someone willing to trade for NW2 or lionel blocks.
4. Leave this as a unpowered unit... which sort of defeats my goal.


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

With the sideframes and power:
1. Easy way - buy the USA Trains GP38 trucks, swap in with few modifications. If they fit.
2. Alternatively, disassemble the power blocks and trucks, see if you can put the RS3 ones into the Geep ones. Check clearances / wiring / suitability / dry fit / test run under power to sort out binding and smooth operation / modify sideframes to match the GP38(-2/3), doesn't work make your own power unit and fit the sideframes to the power block. Test fit / test run / paint, detail and fix in place - Bob's your Uncle.

I have trodden that same path - I'm making a steam loco atm and re-purposed the Bachman 4-6-0 Annie power unit to fit a SA Railways F Class Loco. which has been designed from the rails up. Plus working on a NR diesel drive unit. There are no commercial parts for them in largescale.

Nice work on the horns btw. Are they brass bugle headed screws used for fixing plasterboard / Gyprock? (Drywall)


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Scott said:


> With the sideframes and power:
> 1. Easy way - buy the USA Trains GP38 trucks, swap in with few modifications. If they fit.
> 2. Alternatively, disassemble the power blocks and trucks, see if you can put the RS3 ones into the Geep ones. Check clearances / wiring / suitability / dry fit / test run under power to sort out binding and smooth operation / modify sideframes to match the GP38(-2/3), doesn't work make your own power unit and fit the sideframes to the power block. Test fit / test run / paint, detail and fix in place - Bob's your Uncle.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip.
I went on the EB and found some shorter ones i think they are for the USA 44 ton switcher. the measurement is perfect.
With regard the horns, The screws are just brass wood screws that i turned down with a drill and a dremel


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think you will find the USAT 44 tonner or the NW-2 blocks to be shorter wheelbase.


Don't know if you can find them cheap, you can definitely buy them new, but the title of this topic is "Project Cheep Jeep" so I am not recommending you buy new.


Also realize you have a 1:32 loco, so the any of the Aristo blocks will be too big.


Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I think you will find the USAT 44 tonner or the NW-2 blocks to be shorter wheelbase.
> 
> 
> Don't know if you can find them cheap, you can definitely buy them new, but the title of this topic is "Project Cheep Jeep" so I am not recommending you buy new.
> ...


Thanks Greg
I was able to find some non-lionel blocks that have perfect wheel spacing but i could not find any information on them aside from the identification as "100-x2" which i suspect is a USA trains 44ton motorblock. 
i put my aristocraft blocks up for sale and someone snatched those up immediately so i just reinvested the money into the NW2 blocks.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok so i was running low on Isopropyl but i did have a gallon if cheep Chinese ethyl hand sanitizer shoved away in the shelf because it stank so bad i could not use it. So i thought..
"what the heck i'll give it a try"
As you can see it sorta did work, after an 2 hours it softened most of the gray paint and some of the red but left the stamped paint intact for the most part.. I should of been more patient I'm wondering what would of happened if i had left it over night. 








Honestly though, this ethyl hand sanitizer is nasty i can't believe they approved it for skin contact the smell is pure toxicity


----------



## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

> this ethyl hand sanitizer is nasty i can't believe they approved it for skin contact


I doubt anyone did approve it. There's a lot of stuff the FDA doesn't bother to test. Caveat Emptor.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If the block you found is the one pictured in post #14, that is definitely a USAT block.


The 44 tonner blocks have a projection at one end for mounting the coupler (one of the few that are not body mounted), so I am pretty sure it is an NW-2.


Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> If the block you found is the one pictured in post #14, that is definitely a USAT block.
> 
> 
> The 44 tonner blocks have a projection at one end for mounting the coupler (one of the few that are not body mounted), so I am pretty sure it is an NW-2.
> ...


Ah ok. this is welcome news


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

progressing slowly. model is not quite scale


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Very clever horns. Nice work.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Quick update.. If considering doing this.... DO NOT use Krylon Plastic Fusion on this model. the paint is way too hot for this plastic.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Decided to do a Burlington Northern color scheme but BN green is a really difficult color to match locally in a rattle can. i went with this weird smelling Martha Stewart green color from Michael's craft store. It looks like john deer green in this picture but its not


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Kind of a incomplete manufacturing process on the rear windows 









Attempting to correct somewhat.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

A little progress today , putting the visors on the headlamps and some painting. will work on the side windows next.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Not scale, not accurate, not even clean... but better than just a gaping hole.


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Coming along nicely, good to see the Burlington colour scheme again.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

The more i do the more i find something that needs doing.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Finishing up some detail on the Cab. I have decided not to detail the inside. ( have way to many bent pens holding stuff in place )








I do not know what i am going to do for decals.
Was quoted a price of 40 dollars for setup and 40 for each additional sheet. Thats too much for me.
Might have to try and make some tape stencils.
The strobe is temporary until i can find a proper size amber globe facsimile.


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking really nice. Thanks for the on going progress reports.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Got the grab bars in on the high side and put some eyelets on the top access panels


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Some have asked about the grab bars and ladder runs
Basically they are just K&S brass wire (can be found at most ACE hardware stores) but any apporpreate sized hard wire will do.
Under the wire is a shaped head pin from the bead making aisle in walmart. 
Small holes are drilled in the plastic and the wire is glued, inserted and folded over on the backside. 
Harbor freight has needle drill bits. they are very fragile so pick up a extra pack. 
(conversely you can clip the sharp end off of a needle and use it as a bit, it actually works pretty good.)
If you use them with a power drill make sure the drill can go down to "0" bit size.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

The New-Ray railing and stanchions are a bit fat and toyish looking. I am thinking about making my own, and while i have the materials on hand it would mean a lot of work and time.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

While not perfect.. i think the new railing and stanchions look more scale than the plastic ones. Lots left to do in this area.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Picked up these cheap LED Christmas lights at the local Wal-Mart while i was getting my prescription. They will work fine for the main lights I guess.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Major error here. Can you spot it?









if you said access door is incorrect... You'd be right









Ugly fix. ive decided to not try and move the louvers because it would be just too difficult.


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob said:


> Picked up these cheap LED Christmas lights at the local Wal-Mart while i was getting my prescription. They will work fine for the main lights I guess.


Those lights are a great find. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

This is wrong... But


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok a bit more accurate now for that side


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Greg Elmassian said:


> No, I mean measure the wheels and multiply by 32 and see how they match the prototype which is 40".
> In 1:32 this would be exactly 1-1/8" in diameter....
> So what do they measure?
> Greg


Greg,
On my calculator 40 divided by 32 is 1.25.
1 ¼".
Another perfect calculation?
Cheers,
David


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Oldnoob,
You are doing a fantastic job.
Do you ever wish that you had just started from scratch?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

David Leech said:


> Oldnoob,
> You are doing a fantastic job.
> Do you ever wish that you had just started from scratch?
> Cheers,
> David Leech, Delta, Canada


Thank You.
I actually wish i had a milling machine and the knowledge to build brass engines. I can solder knickknacks and pollywacks but thats about as far as my ability goes.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Progressing slowly. May take a break for a while. i seemed to have picked up a horrible flubug can't do anything without sweat just poring off me.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)




----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Simple strobe circuit to be added later.


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

That's a great effect. Can you share the circuit diagram by any chance?


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Robert said:


> That's a great effect. Can you share the circuit diagram by any chance?


Robert, this was the tutorial video i used to make the strobe circuit. However i found that i had to screw around with different capacitors and resistors other than the ones used in the video. i used a 1000uf capacitor and 460 ohm resistor every thing else is the same. I am thinking of upping the capacitor to 1200uf for a slower strobe.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Bit frustrating. 
I didn't have a long enough brass wire for the side handrails so i tried some steel wire i had,
and of course i can't get a solder flow to it. 
( i live in a remote small town and good hobby supplies are no where to be found )
It's frustrating because i had planned for the railing to provide structural support and alignment for the stanchions. 
So i guess i will have to make sure the stanchions are secure where they attach to the body of the locomotive.


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

OldNoob said:


> Robert, this was the tutorial video i used to make the strobe circuit. However i found that i had to screw around with different capacitors and resistors other than the ones used in the video. i used a 1000uf capacitor and 460 ohm resistor every thing else is the same. I am thinking of upping the capacitor to 1200uf for a slower strobe.


thank you for the linked video. Nice little weekend project.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Progressing. Not perfect but i think better than the original.


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

OldNoob said:


> Progressing. Not perfect but i think better than the original.


That has to be there understatement of the year!
A wonderful transformation.
Love those stanchions.
How exactly did you fold them?
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Wiring harness on the shell side is complete


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Looking good mate, keep up the good work.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Getting close to finishing the details on the shell.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Ok.. the detailing of the shell has come to a conclusion. I could do more but there is a point where it becomes more like work and more frustration then i draw the line.









Now i have to decide if i will give my attention to the motive power or the decals.

Decals.
I could print my own. i have the wet slide paper however being white i would still have to cut out the decals precisely, which could be annoying.
OR
I could order some online. however i have not found any under $40 which is too rich for me and for this project.

I may put the decals on hold and direct my attention to the frame and motive power.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

David Leech said:


> That has to be there understatement of the year!
> A wonderful transformation.
> Love those stanchions.
> How exactly did you fold them?
> ...


Thank You. 
The Stanchions are made of 1/16 K&S brass square tubing that i had in stock. I took a dremel with cutoff blade and just basically ground out one side which made it into a U-channel ( i could not find 1/16 u-channel anywhere so i have to make my own ) then i flattened one end and rolled it.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Originally i had planned to use the stock frame just reinforce it a bit,, but i found it sets the engine up about 3/8" too high.
So i made my own frame out of some 3" flatbar


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

The NW2 motor block sets the engine up way to high. Not sure what to do now, gonna have to think on it. 
Wish i had went with the Lionel blocks now.
I could mod the original newray bogie blocks ,, but sadly i destroyed one in an attempt to make something else.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Modify the chassis not the trucks... you can recess the bearing surface, cut out the chassis and move that area up.

The problem is you used a flat piece of steel... go back to the stock chassis, cut out the plastic area and recess it further into the chassis.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

This is the solution i went with,, its not the nicest but it was the cheapest.









This will have to do.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So are those the NW2 trucks, modified, or what?

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> So are those the NW2 trucks, modified, or what?
> 
> Greg


They are MW2 blocks and NOT modified ,,yet.
Currently they are unmodified and can handle a R3 curve like they are, but bind and derail on a R2 , So may have to round the top corners of the blocks a bit to navigate R2 curves as there is no more room up in the body for the blocks to swivel any more.
R1 is completely out of the picture with this setup.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What happened between this:









and this:









Is it the same and just cannot see through with the darker background?

Greg


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I would suggest that the body is sitting a lot lower.
The wheel might clear the body side, but not the block.
Regards,
David leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> What happened between this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


the new frame design, lowers the engine by 3/8 " by allowing the blocks to go up and recess inside of the shell.
The difference between the two images is with the new design, the body now sits 3/8" lower which looks closer to reality. However this design limits the degrees that the blocks can swivel .


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That's sort of what I was trying to say in post #60, you needed to get the bearing surface up "higher" into the chassis, well done.

How close to prototype height did it come out? Looks much better to me.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Motive power test. Bran New motor blocks sounding a bit grindy 

__
https://flic.kr/p/2kbXxgz


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The higher pitched whine is normal, the lower frequency "grind" is metal wheels on track and no sound deadener, and your shelf board "amplifying" the vibrations.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

The frames' final form is complete and the ballast is in place.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well the prototype weighed 260,000 pounds, converted to 1:32 that is 7.93 pounds... looks like you will be spot on.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

After looking at other photos , i realized that i have set it too low so i raised it back up a hair. 
And i will remake the plow so that it looks more accurate and is closer to the track.
But first, i need to figure out a way to stretch those bogie sides by about 1/4 inch.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Stretching of the bogies has begun


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Is there room?

By the way, I don't remember offhand, but some of the USAT motor blocks have the axles riding right in the motor block plastic, as opposed to the metal bushings. Keep those axles well lubed, I use the heavy gear oil by Hob-E-Lube, it seems to stick in place better than grease.

Looking good!

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Greg Elmassian said:


> Is there room?
> 
> By the way, I don't remember offhand, but some of the USAT motor blocks have the axles riding right in the motor block plastic, as opposed to the metal bushings. Keep those axles well lubed, I use the heavy gear oil by Hob-E-Lube, it seems to stick in place better than grease.
> 
> ...


Great Tip Thank You. I'll check that out! That's is what i need.

Ive been having trouble finding plastic safe greases that actually stick to gears.
NAPA Sil-Glyde is useless as it separates so badly.
Toyota makes a lithium soap based glycol grease which is really good but hard to find.
I did find, locally, a brake caliper paste grease that is safe for plastics and rubber that is very sticky but it is red. i would rather have white.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There is a gear gel that works and does not throw off. Believe it or not sold by bachmann #190 and Aero Gel (great stuff) ACT-11 NG Jel. It's purple.

here's a page on what I have learned with lubricants:





Lubrication


Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers




elmassian.com





Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

stretching of the bogies is complete off to sand and paint.









In retrospect... had i made my own motor blocks i would not of had to take this step.


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yeah, and making your own motor blocks is *way* more work... I think you took the right path.

Greg


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Adding the strobe circuit


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Bogies are complete


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Cheep Geep is ready for decals


----------



## Alan in Adirondacks (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow! That's a beautiful model! I've been following this build and am impressed with you inventiveness and modeling skills.
Best regards,
Alan Redeker


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Alan in Adirondacks said:


> Wow! That's a beautiful model! I've been following this build and am impressed with you inventiveness and modeling skills.
> Best regards,
> Alan Redeker


Thank You!


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Well,, i just complicated my wiring 100 fold.. but it was necessary to run with some other engines.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

She's rolling


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Mate, she looks great. You've really upped the bar on this model.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Scott said:


> Mate, she looks great. You've really upped the bar on this model.


Thank You!.
I tried to put some reflective tape on the side before i attempt to print the decals


----------



## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice attention to the finest detail.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Robert said:


> Nice attention to the finest detail.


Thank You.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Disappointed with "Koala" brand white waterslide decal paper. The pigment separates from the applied clear coats and roles up when applying and positioning the decal.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I'm kinda disappointed with the way the decals are turning out. i may just clean them off and get some professionally printed ones. Although, i and kinda running into the end of the string with this engine


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

The closeup looks like a white paintpen, it will look crisper with a better set of decals on there. Just needs some era appropriate rolling stock behind it now.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

I'm done.. the shoe string has run out








I'll try to take some better photos next week.
I might maybe upgrade the couplers to the smaller Kadee as i have two here


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Great looking end result mate.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Scott said:


> Great looking end result mate.


Thank You Scott.
its small ,, but its running smoothly





A final note:
To anyone thinking of doing this , i have three recommendations.
#1 Get the frame and running gear sorted before you do any paint or body work.
#2 Do the final attaching of the detail parts like grab bars AFTER you have done the decals on the front.
#3 Put the glass in last! because it is a pain to have to keep covering up the glass for clear coats and touch ups.


----------



## NorthwestGarrattGuy (Oct 18, 2021)

OldNoob said:


> Thank You Scott.
> its small ,, but its running smoothly
> 
> 
> ...


hmmmm i was planning on doing this and making a locomotive for my garden shortline (currently in the planning stage)


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Attempted to take some glamour shots today


----------



## DetailsDetails (Jul 28, 2021)

Beautiful work


----------



## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Yes, but that's a 'real' one isn't it!
Well at least for the first two photos.
Great job and taking something that is 'so so' and making it into fantastic - well done.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


----------



## NorthwestGarrattGuy (Oct 18, 2021)

OldNoob said:


> Attempted to take some glamour shots today


Good more refrence images for my Kramston & Nannarbsville Joint Railroad GP35


----------



## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, agree, great job!


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Love it, you've done a great job.


----------



## OldNoob (Apr 30, 2016)

Just screwing around a bit.


----------



## Scott (Jan 29, 2008)

Very realistic.


----------

