# Accucraft 4-4-0 modifications



## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

The very first thing that annoyed me about my 4-4-0 is the throttled. The hand throttle is just a rubber coated knob that you have to reach under the roof to get to.
Because it is just a little know it is also very hard to turn with your fingers cramped under the roof. So I came up with the above solution. I used the radio control 
throttle attachment and machined a brass extension and bolted it on to it. The tip of the throttle has some silicon tubing on so I don't have to keep burning my 
sensitive little fingers. Now, its easier to reach and I don't need to go under the roof to get to it.
The next annoying thing is the oil drain valve. The original is an awkward piece of work to say the least. I replaced it with:








I fabricated a little adapter to switch from metric and attached this coles power models valve to the end of a copper tube fitting.
Now I just screw in a little hose, open the valve then open the throttle and my oil drains neatly into a bottle for recycling 








I bought my 4-4-0 off ebay at a remarkable price for a new live steam model. Unfortunately to get the great price I had to settle on the general boone version.

Lanakila was previously owned my the Sanoma Valley RailRoad, and was quite different from the Boone. So I bought a diamond stack from the Accucraft Store.
I etched a new star name plate and soldered on the pin. (1700 F silver solder) I insulated the inside of the smoke door. I painted out the name General Boone, some of the filigree and the numbers and tried, but haven't succeeded in removing the compressor.
If anyone knows how to get the compressor off I'd appreciate a little guidance.
My next step is to put oil cups on her, paint the name Lanakila where General Boone used to appear, extent the lamp platform so I can move the lamp forward and then that should do it for the engine. I'm not going for an exact replica, just a convincing one.








I took the tender off the frame and repainted her a solid black, which is how the tender for Lanakila appears in the couple of photos I have of her before the turn of the century.
I've never liked the cheap stamped metal doors on the tool boxes so I TORE them off. I'm making a couple out of wood with brass hinges. I am also making a new frame for the tender out of oak. The prototypes frame was also made of oak, but thats not why I'm doing it; the accucraft frame is really cheesy bent brass and feels too frail. The only other modification I've made is to remove the air tank on the back. As far as I can see from the data sheet there were just two tool boxes on the tender and thats it.
I am purposely ignoring the fact that Lanakila had fenders around the drivers and the pilot wheels and the paint scheme was olive not blue like the Boone. I may change those things in the future, but I can live with it for now, just as I have one operational engine while I complete the work on Kauila.


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## parkdesigner (Jan 5, 2008)

Looking good!!!

I love the oil drain solution... very nice.


(So are the tender frame and air tank available to be acquired?!? I might know a railroad that could use them!







)


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

The air tank I'm keeping. The trucks I will use on the new frame, but the frame itself is free for the asking.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich, you started me thinking. I have made numerous cosmetic changes to my 4-4-0, and now I guess the toolbox tops should be changed to real wood. Should also electrify the headlight--insert a chimney from the bottom to simulate an oil lamp. A Miniatronics 12v bulb powered by a 9v rechargeable battery gives a nice yellow glow. 

Larry


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## parkdesigner (Jan 5, 2008)

Shucks Rich, I was eyeing those trucks and tank!







Very kind offer on the frame itself, but I think I'll pass... thanks though!


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## R Snyder (May 12, 2009)

Larry, 
Where would you put the wires and the battery?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Like the working lamp idea Larry. I'm thinking more in terms of an alcohol lamp. Saw a thread on someone doing that months back.


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## Jim Overland (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice job. 

the 4-4-0 is a nice piece with the slide values. It was worth waiting for 
jim


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Re: electrifying the headlight. On my 2-6-2 rebuild, the solid boiler handrails were replaced with 1/16" brass tubing which allows wires to go into the cab. Northwest Shortline makes a good stranded wire for this, meant for HO motor hookups. The cab of my 4-4-0 is now cluttered with additional piping and a whistle, so the battery will probably go in the tender. 
A friend of mine at NJLS, Mort Schoenberg, has put a button battery into the body of a headlight, so no external wires. I'll have to check back to see how he included an on/off switch. 
Rich--alcohol, nah! How about carbide instead? 

Larry


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Doesn't carbide burn quicker? 
BTW, anyone know how to get that compressor off the accucraft 4-4-0?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Rich, see that unused boiler fitting on the upper part of the backhead? A Regner whistle valve threads directly into it, and the whistle fits crosswise above the boiler between the steam turret and front cab wall. Installation took less than an hour. Bought my kit from Ken at traindept.com 
If you still haven't found the way to remove the air pump, check with Cliff at Accucraft. The 4-4-0 pump is listed in their parts section; looking at one should reveal a clue. 

Larry


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## Bill4373 (Jan 3, 2008)

headlamp wire Radio Shack 278-503 Insulated Wrapping Wire


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

open the valve then open the throttle and my oil drains neatly into a bottle for recycling 
Richard, 

Neat looking adaptor. 

Isn't the drain for removing the water after each run? Not sure why you'd recycle it, or why you want to drain all the oil out of the lubricator.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, it is for removing the water from the oiler, yes, but some oil comes out whether I want it to or not.


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## Bill4373 (Jan 3, 2008)

two items: operating headlight http://gandolfi.info/ruby_lights.htm 


Rich, you said in another thread that if you did something, your wife might kill you. Give her instructions on getting onto MLS so she can sell your engines to us.......


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Bill, 
HA! I'll never part with my engines


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

but some oil comes out whether I want it to or not 
Well, if you open the throttle at the same time, I'm not surprised! Try opening just the drain and waiting a few minutes. The water will drip out and the oil will start thinking about whether it wants to slip down that tiny hole...


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for the tip Pete. I'll try letting it drain without pressure behind it.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Pete, 
That worked like a charm. I tried that once with the original bleeder valve and it seem to take for ever, but not with this one. One drop of oil came out and then a little steam of water. Thanks for the tip.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Rick, 
I have plans to add equalizers and modify the leading truck for a true 3 point suspension, so the loco can run on a "real" layout. The Accucraft 4-4-0 is a beautiful engine, though a little bit too rigid for my (on purpose) less-than perfect track. 
Regards


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Henner, 
Anyway you can email me a set of those plans? I'd stop by but I've been real busy lately.


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