# LGB Christmas Stainz Engine



## MVS (May 25, 2021)

I set up a LGB Christmas Stainz engine with 2 passenger cars on an outdoor track for the Christmas holiday.
Last season, I burned out 2 brand new Christmas Stainz engines because a wheel of the engine came off the track
but not the connectors. This caused the wheels to spin and burn out the 2 engines. Is there something I can do about
this other than not run the train unsupervised? Would think there would be a circuit breaker that would turn off the motor when
it overheats. My Bridgewerks Magnum SR 15 has a circuit breaker that protects the unit. Shouldn't the engine have one too?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm not quite sure I exactly understand you.

You say a wheel of the engine came off the track (I assume this means derailed) but not the connectors. What connectors? Do you mean the loco derailed, but the wheels kept spinning...

Interesting, in that if the wheels were spinning, you would think that the fact they are spinning would mean the motors were ok, and not heavily loaded.... 

Sort of does not make sense the motor would burn out... did the motor itself burn out, or were the gears damaged?

Again, the fact that the wheels were spinning would indicate that the motor load was not at maximum, and thus would not overheat.

Yes, you 15 amp supply has a breaker to protect itself. LGB is usually bulletproof and they don't have breakers, some of the other G scale locos do, but again, it does not seem you have an overload condition (over current, the only thing the breaker can react to).

Can you clarify / answer any of the items above?

Greg


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

I think by connectors he means the sliding pickups so current continued to the motor.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I'm not quite sure I exactly understand you.
> 
> You say a wheel of the engine came off the track (I assume this means derailed) but not the connectors. What connectors? Do you mean the loco derailed, but the wheels kept spinning...
> 
> ...


Hello Greg,

When I say connectors, I mean the sliding pickups as another post clarified. You are correct in that the train derailed but the wheels continued to spin. 
I had 2 brand new LGB Christmas Stainz engines ruined for this same issue. I had one repaired and the parts replaced were as follows:
short shaft motor, wheelset for LGB Stainz, Carbon brushes 14 mm, 4-pack, power pickup shoes, 2-pack and traction tire.

There was a strong burnt smell and the wheels were locked in place when I discovered each engine. My track is an oval track on plywood with the
straight runs 10 feet. With the sliding pickups still drawing power and the wheels spinning, the train was only slightly derailed probably caused by
some slight exterior issue. Am afraid to run the engine unsupervised for fear of ruining another engine.
Any help would be appreciated.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

When a train derails and the 'slider' is picking up power and a short is happening, the springs heat up and melt into the plastic. Not enough power is drawn to trip a breaker on a 15 amp DC supply. What I do not under stand is the engine with a bad motor, wheels, brushes being bad. I have repaired well over 100 engines and have never seen this much damage in one engine. So, does the bridge werks model output 38 volts? I have seen this occur twice. Once from a bad LM317 in the bridgewerks. Other time was the front slider was at max which gives over 33 volts to the track on some models, way to high for large scale trains.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Dan Pierce said:


> When a train derails and the 'slider' is picking up power and a short is happening, the springs heat up and melt into the plastic. Not enough power is drawn to trip a breaker on a 15 amp DC supply. What I do not under stand is the engine with a bad motor, wheels, brushes being bad. I have repaired well over 100 engines and have never seen this much damage in one engine. So, does the bridge werks model output 38 volts? I have seen this occur twice. Once from a bad LM317 in the bridgewerks. Other time was the front slider was at max which gives over 33 volts to the track on some models, way to high for large scale trains.


Hello Dan,
Thanks for your help. I use a Bridgewerks Magnum 15-SR, 15 Amp Transformer, 1 track remote ready. I have attached the specifications supplied by Onlytrains.com where
I purchased this transformer last year. Also attached is the invoice from All About LGB where I had the engine repaired. It lists the parts replaced . Didn't understand the
wheelset being replaced as they were not damaged and they cost more than a new motor but lacked the knowledge or experience to question it. Power pickup shoes were also
not damaged. 
The engine was repaired and works good.


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

If you have had repeated derailments, I would guess the problem is the track. I would use screw type rail joiners, replace small straight track with 5' sections, if possible, and screw down track to the board. Then file any joints that don't align perfectly.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Exador said:


> If you have had repeated derailments, I would guess the problem is the track. I would use screw type rail joiners, replace small straight track with 5' sections, if possible, and screw down track to the board. Then file any joints that don't align perfectly.


Thanks for your advice.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

MVS said:


> Am afraid to run the engine unsupervised for fear of ruining another engine.


Your concern is justified, but why run them unsupervised? Is there someone watching who isn't competent to stop the train if something goes wrong?

The other option you might explore is a timer. You can get ones that will kill the power after a certain period of time - 10 minutes after you leave the room! Or a 'motion detector' that turns the train on if someone moves.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Pete Thornton said:


> Your concern is justified, but why run them unsupervised? Is there someone watching who isn't competent to stop the train if something goes wrong?
> 
> The other option you might explore is a timer. You can get ones that will kill the power after a certain period of time - 10 minutes after you leave the room! Or a 'motion detector' that turns the train on if someone moves.


Hello Dave,

My train is part of a large outdoor Christmas display. I have many people walk through the display each night from Thanksgiving through New Year's. The train is behind
a roped off area so that it cannot be disturbed by young children or adults that would want to touch it. It therefor is left unattended. Losing 2 brand new LGB Christmas Stainz engines
in a few days probably makes my running the train unsupervised a bad idea. Was hoping for some kind of fix where if the engine became derailed but where the sliding pickups were still making
contact with the track and providing electricity to the motor that was making the wheels spin that the motor would shut down before it was damaged. 
Still puzzled as to why the wheels would just spin and cause the gears or motor to burn up? Would have thought the wheels would continue to spin until the problem was discovered?
With the wheels spinning and the train not moving because it is derailed, does this cause extra heat that would not be present if the train was moving on the track?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I float my track in ballast and nothing is nailed/glued down outdoors (track needs floatin for temperature extremes here in New England). Over 20 years and I still let my trains run when I am not watching them. I did have one derailment when a critter upset an engine, and a wheel melted (LGB Porter). I repaired this engine with a new wheel and it still runs to this day. Most curves are sectional track, big loop is flex track.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Dan Pierce said:


> I float my track in ballast and nothing is nailed/glued down outdoors (track needs floatin for temperature extremes here in New England). Over 20 years and I still let my trains run when I am not watching them. I did have one derailment when a critter upset an engine, and a wheel melted (LGB Porter). I repaired this engine with a new wheel and it still runs to this day. Most curves are sectional track, big loop is flex track.


Dan,

Thanks for your reply. Would you know why the gears or motor would burn up when the engine is derailed but the slider pickups are still engaged to the track drawing electricity and
causing the wheels to spin? Would think the wheels would just spin until the problem was discovered. When the wheels are spinning, does it cause more heat on the motor and gears
than when the engine is actually running on the track? Would think it would be the same and the wheels would just spin on the derailed engine until it was discovered.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

MVS said:


> When the wheels are spinning, does it cause more heat on the motor and gears
> than when the engine is actually running on the track? Would think it would be the same and the wheels would just spin on the derailed engine until it was discovered.


As Greg already pointed out, if the motor is spinning but not pulling a train, then it should be lightly loaded and therefore will not get as hot as if it was pulling a train.

Given the extensive repairs you had to do (assuming it was really necessary to replace all those parts,) I would look for some other explanation. Your big power pack could be feeding 16 Amps through that poor little Stainz if there was a short circuit or similar event (though I can't think of anything that would let the power pack produce 16A without tripping its safety.) 
Is the power pack short circuit protection working?.

My other suggestion would be to protect the Stainz with a 2 or 3A polyfuse. This is a little solid state 'fuse' which cuts the power when it is overloaded. Put one in the power line to the track loop with the Stainz and it won't be able to pull enough power to melt down.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The PolySwitch (the trade name by Raytheon who "invented" and copyrighted it) is self-resetting, so for our uses, much better than a one-shot fuse (where overcurrent melts the metal and requires replacement)

PolySwitches are used by many manufacturers, Aristo Craft made extensive use of them, even in their turnouts.






PolySwitch Resettable PTCs Devices - Littelfuse







www.littelfuse.com





Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> The PolySwitch (the trade name by Raytheon who "invented" and copyrighted it) is self-resetting, so for our uses, much better than a one-shot fuse (where overcurrent melts the metal and requires replacement)
> 
> PolySwitches are used by many manufacturers, Aristo Craft made extensive use of them, even in their turnouts.
> 
> ...


Pete and Greg,

Thanks for your advice. Will go with the Polyswitch and hopefully that will prevent burning the motor out.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You should select ones that trip at twice the current you expect. I would think a 2 amp unit would be right.

But a several people have mentioned, something still does not make sense in your experience, the drivers slipping should not have burned out the motor. But we have asked all the questions we can.... still, this has happened to 2 locos? It almost sounds like you are overloading the locos all the time and you are prematurely wearing out the motor.. but you say you pull 2 passenger cars, and in both cases when derailing the drivers are turning.... just does not add up.... but whatever is killing your locos, you need to change it.

Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> You should select ones that trip at twice the current you expect. I would think a 2 amp unit would be right.
> 
> But a several people have mentioned, something still does not make sense in your experience, the drivers slipping should not have burned out the motor. But we have asked all the questions we can.... still, this has happened to 2 locos? It almost sounds like you are overloading the locos all the time and you are prematurely wearing out the motor.. but you say you pull 2 passenger cars, and in both cases when derailing the drivers are turning.... just does not add up.... but whatever is killing your locos, you need to change it.
> 
> Greg


The 2nd. engine that burned out wasn't pulling any cars. The engine was just running by itself so I am definitely not overloading the engine. The engine derailed but with the sliders still making contact caused the wheels to spin and that is the only issue that could have caused the motor or gears to burn out. Strong burnt smell was present. Can this cause some kind of short?
As you mentioned, I don't think to much power going to the engine is the problem as the circuit breaker on the Bridgewerks transformer would have tripped. With a 15 amp Bridgewerks transformer and only the engine running pulling no cars, how many amps are going to the engine? If you are suggesting a 2 amp polyswitch, could it mean without one that the Bridgewerks transformer is sending to much current to the engine and burining it out?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

MVS said:


> I don't think to much power going to the engine is the problem as the circuit breaker on the Bridgewerks transformer would have tripped.


It is possible the Bridgewerks has a faulty circuit breaker. While you might not want to try a complete short circuit (if it is faulty all sorts of nasty things could happen,) you could test it with something that would pull 20 amps - or maybe it won't trip until 30 amps? A car starter motor is the only thing I can think of that might test it at 30 amps? Tricky.



MVS said:


> With a 15 amp Bridgewerks transformer and only the engine running pulling no cars, how many amps are going to the engine?


One of our concerns is that the engine should only be using around 1 amp, or less with no cars. You can run 15-20 such trains at once with that big power pack.



MVS said:


> If you are suggesting a 2 amp polyswitch, could it mean without one that the Bridgewerks transformer is sending to much current to the engine and burining it out?


The Bridgewerks won't send too much power if everything is as it should be - the amps supplied are controlled by the resistance of the engine, which is (normally) set up to need around 1 amp. 
I think that's the possibility that Greg and I are suspecting. If the loco derails, but the sliders stay on the rails, and then one wheel touches the opposite rail in a short circuit (much lower resistance = much higher current), you could be getting 30 amps through that wheel and the frame, which might melt wheels, etc.

I suggest (a) check the specs whether the Birdgewerks does trip at 15 amps, or if it supports 15 amps continuously and trips at 30 amps, (b) consider using a smaller 1 amp power pack (20VA would be adequate for one Stainz,) (c) test the Bridgewerks to see if it does trip as specified [not easy,] and finally (d) definitely install a 2 or 3 amp Polyswitch in one wire from the power pack to the rails.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Pete Thornton said:


> It is possible the Bridgewerks has a faulty circuit breaker. While you might not want to try a complete short circuit (if it is faulty all sorts of nasty things could happen,) you could test it with something that would pull 20 amps - or maybe it won't trip until 30 amps? A car starter motor is the only thing I can think of that might test it at 30 amps? Tricky.
> 
> 
> One of our concerns is that the engine should only be using around 1 amp, or less with no cars. You can run 15-20 such trains at once with that big power pack.
> ...


Pete,

Thanks for you advice. Will check these items out.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A basic understanding of electronics is needed before making some of the statements you have both made.

First: faulty circuit breaker: that Bridgewerks will deliver 15 amps all day. If you have a SITUATION where you are drawing 15 amps, it will go on FOREVER and the circuit breaker will not trip, and well it should not.

If you manage to put the loco in a SITUATION where it DRAWS 15 amps, you will indeed destroy something.

The lack of understanding here is how to make the SITUATION where you can DRAW 15 amps. Clearly with the wheels turning, it was not drawing 15 amps, 15 amps going through that motor would destroy stuff. So there is NOTHING wrong with the circuit breaker.

Current is drawn in proportion to the voltage and resistance in the circuit. Please read about Ohms Law.

So, in the NORMAL SITUATION, the motor's resistance is such that it will only DRAW about 1 ampere... so no damage will occur. (you could have a 1 million ampere supply and this would still be the same)

Now, if the VOLTAGE from the Bridgewerks suddenly went almost triple, that would triple the current, i.e. the locomotive would DRAW more amps, and this could damage it.

locking or impeding the drive train will reduce the resistance of the motor and then it will DRAW more amperage, and that is a common mode of damage, BUT you say the wheels were turning... (this part of the story does not compute)

a SHORT CIRCUIT, i.e. bypassing the motor (the circuit becomes shorter) would DRAW a lot of current, and normally exceed the 15 amp rating and then the circuit breaker would trip, BUT you say the wheels were turning, so there was NO short circuit.

Again, the story still does not "jive" with what happened... it the loco was mechanically stalled or "binding" the story would make sense, or a short circuit somewhere... BUT if the loco derailed and the wheels were turning it cannot be..
*
Is there any chance that the wheels were turning, but really slowly and binding? This is about the only guess I can make where you could draw a lot more current to cause the motor / brushes to be damaged.*

Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> A basic understanding of electronics is needed before making some of the statements you have both made.
> 
> First: faulty circuit breaker: that Bridgewerks will deliver 15 amps all day. If you have a SITUATION where you are drawing 15 amps, it will go on FOREVER and the circuit breaker will not trip, and well it should not.
> 
> ...


Greg,

Really appreciate your explanation and with you explaining Ohms Law, it makes sense that the engine would only draw current in proportion to the voltage and resistance in the circuit.
The question then becomes, what caused the engine to pull up to 15 amps because if it pulled more, the circuit breaker on the Bridgewerks would have tripped but since it was not tripped
the amps did not exceed 15 but that would destroy stuff like the motor and gears. Engine had a strong burnt smell.
The wheels were turning but slowly so I think you have pinpointed the problem. The drive train was impeded during the derailment reducing the resistance of the motor which caused it to draw
more amperage which could have gone up to 15 amps with my Bridgewerks which would have caused the motor and gears to burn out. 
With the problem probably identified in that it was not a short circuit and that it doesn't matter how big a transformer I have because of Ohms Law, it sounds like Pete had a great suggestion when
he suggested I put a 3 amp polyswitch in one leg of the connectors between the transformer and track. This would pop at 3 amps and save the motor from burning out because of the extra amps the engine is calling for because of the binding of the wheels or impending the drive train. 
Does that make sense?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes, the wheels turning slowly could be a heavy load, hard to gauge, but the rest of the symptoms sure look like overloading the motor.

The trick will be to choose a polyswitch that will tolerate "normal running" but trip above that.

This may be a bit of work for you, since there is indeed a "fast blow" version of the polyswitch, but few people other than electrical engineers know about that model.

It will probably require you to go to Mouser or Digi-Key to get... 

Also 3 amps will be too much, you may have to experiment, you want the lowest current model that allows normal operation of the loco, so you may have to buy several different values to get the one that meets your need, this is a fine line. 3 amps will be too much on the LGB motors, since they cannot handle gobs of current like the Aristo Craft locos that have 3 amp ones, they have fan cooled, high current motors as compared to your LGB

I would try ones from 1.5 amps to 2 amps at first, and the fast blow variety. The correct experiment is to find the lowest rated one that works in normal operation, so that means keep going down in value until it trips prematurely, and then go up one "step" in current rating. Again, your goal will be harder since the LGB motors are already low current and do not have a high tolerance for high current.

If one of my engineers was doing this, they would measure the current drawn under normal circumstances, and then pick one with the appropriate "hold current" (you will see this in the link).



https://www.mouser.com/Littelfuse/Circuit-Protection/Resettable-Fuses-PPTC/_/N-bm931?P=1z0zlhtZ1z0z7l5Z1z0x5vn



Good luck. I would wonder if you could not do something else to avoid derailments also, but I'm sure you are full up with advice now!

Regards, Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

MVS said:


> Greg,
> 
> Really appreciate your explanation and with you explaining Ohms Law, it makes sense that the engine would only draw current in proportion to the voltage and resistance in the circuit.
> The question then becomes, what caused the engine to pull up to 15 amps because if it pulled more, the circuit breaker on the Bridgewerks would have tripped but since it was not tripped
> ...





Greg Elmassian said:


> Yes, the wheels turning slowly could be a heavy load, hard to gauge, but the rest of the symptoms sure look like overloading the motor.
> 
> The trick will be to choose a polyswitch that will tolerate "normal running" but trip above that.
> 
> ...


Greg,

Thank you for your time and comments. Based on your expertise, I'm sure what you have described is causing the LGB to overload and burn up. Thanks for the link.
Will go with the 1.5 amps and 2 amps with the fast blow variety and see which one works.
As far as the derailment issue, I have tried to solve that problem. Problem is the engine could run for 6 hours a day for days at a time and be fine. Then it would derail. I live in Michigan
so this could be from snow on the track or some ice or maybe a bit of wind. Derailment always occurs at the turns and will just happen once in a while but if the sliders are still in contact
with the track, the motor will overload and burn out. Really appreciate you analyzing and coming up with the source of the problem which included that it was not the size of the transformer. Makes perfect sense. The solution is even better as it should solve my problem. Thanks again.
take care of the problem.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Another possible issue is the SR 15 can output over 30 volts if the Black plate limiting the voltage is moved to the very top. I have seen this type of supply short the LM317 regulator and place 38 volts on the track as well as the throttle when the black plate is positioned at the top. The electronics in the LGB products will not tolerate this voltage and many things can 'burn' out/up. Note, I have no experience with the remote throttle unit.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Dan Pierce said:


> Another possible issue is the SR 15 can output over 30 volts if the Black plate limiting the voltage is moved to the very top. I have seen this type of supply short the LM317 regulator and place 38 volts on the track as well as the throttle when the black plate is positioned at the top. The electronics in the LGB products will not tolerate this voltage and many things can 'burn' out/up. Note, I have no experience with the remote throttle unit.


Thanks again for your comments.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The older, original Bridgewerks were often guilty of high voltages in lightly loaded conditions.

But the new owner has corrected the problem and added circuitry to help control this. There is a way to spot this, and if you have an old style one, the new circuitry can be retrofitted.

Please scroll down to the Bridgewerks section: (with the new circuitry, I can recommend this product)






DC "power packs"


Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers




elmassian.com





Greg


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

I still can't picture a situation where the Loco derails because but the sliders stay on the track. Guess I would need to see a picture.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I could see one slider... and I guess you could put the wheels on the ground so to speak and have sliders contact maybe at a switch, but I agree, pretty hard to figure out.

Maybe one slider, and the other wheels? 

Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> The older, original Bridgewerks were often guilty of high voltages in lightly loaded conditions.
> 
> But the new owner has corrected the problem and added circuitry to help control this. There is a way to spot this, and if you have an old style one, the new circuitry can be retrofitted.
> 
> ...


Greg,

My 15 amp Bridgewerks is only a year old so it would have the new circuitry but as you pointed out, what was causing the motor to burn out was when the engine derailed and the sliders were still on the track, the wheels were binding and as the motor called for more voltage, the motor burnt out.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I could see one slider... and I guess you could put the wheels on the ground so to speak and have sliders contact maybe at a switch, but I agree, pretty hard to figure out.
> 
> Maybe one slider, and the other wheels?
> 
> Greg


What happened on the 2 engines I lost due to this situation was that on a turn on my oval track, which has runs of 10 ft., meaning the turns are not that sharp, the front wheels were spinning and binding when the engine derailed. The engine was cocked just enough where the left and right front wheels were spinning and binding with one wheel just outside the rail and the other just inside the other rail. Since the sliders sit in back of the front wheels, they were still making contact with the rails and drawing the voltage. As you pointed out Greg, this caused the motor to seek more voltage because of the binding and when the amps exceeded the 1 amp that the engine usually draws, the motor burnt out. Am going to use your suggestion and link you provided to use the 1.5 amp or 2 amp fuse between the transformer and track which would prevent the motor from burning out when this happens again.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think you are on the right path, it may take a bit of experimentation, but it's the best I can come up with for ideas.

The only other thing would require more work, like some kind of thermal cutout on the motor itself. It would have to be adjustable, etc.

Fingers crossed for your success!

Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> I think you are on the right path, it may take a bit of experimentation, but it's the best I can come up with for ideas.
> 
> The only other thing would require more work, like some kind of thermal cutout on the motor itself. It would have to be adjustable, etc.
> 
> ...





Greg Elmassian said:


> I think you are on the right path, it may take a bit of experimentation, but it's the best I can come up with for ideas.
> 
> The only other thing would require more work, like some kind of thermal cutout on the motor itself. It would have to be adjustable, etc.
> 
> ...


Greg,

I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to help me. Was really nice of you. I won't be setting up the train until after Thanksgiving but I will be ready.
Will splice the 2 lines going to the track from the transformer and put in the fuse. Will experiment with the lowest rated trip rating until the engine runs smooth without the fuse 
tripping. Thanks again.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

If you get stuck when you go forwards, you can email me privately too. Getting parts from Mouser can be fun, and I can help with that.

Greg


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Greg Elmassian said:


> If you get stuck when you go forwards, you can email me privately too. Getting parts from Mouser can be fun, and I can help with that.
> 
> Greg


Thanks for everything Greg.


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

Greg, I think these newer MLGB Stainz do not quite have the motor durablity of the older versions prior to Marklin taking over. I have seen more issues with newer version of this engine than the older Lehman built version that were known for being down right bulletproof, even with being submerged into ponds. I do agree he needs to also look into the spot it derails and take care of any track issues at hand. Along with the fast acting fuse to protect the engine should a derailment happen in the future. Make sure to post up some pics of this years holiday layout. I know I would love to see some pics or even video of your display. Good luck


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

Mike,

Thanks for your response. Am in the process of purchasing resettable fuses with a 1.55A run rate and and a 2.67 trip rate. As Greg has walked me through this, hopefully with a derailment in which the pickup sliders are still on the track drawing electricity to the motor but a wheel isn't causing the wheels to bind and burn the engine out, the resettable fuse will trip and save the motor.
I have an oval track with 10 foot runs. The derailment occurs at one of the four turns. I'm in Michigan and around Christmas it gets cold and icy with the wind blowing. I think what happens is
a gust of wind or ice will cause just enough disturbance to knock a wheel off the track but not the sliders causing the motor to burn up because it is being run unattended. 
A few years back, Valero Oil Company did a TV commercial on my Christmas display. Doesn't show the train and track but shows you the display. Attached is the link.





Thanks,
Mark


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## Mike Toney (Feb 25, 2009)

I would gamble that the wind blows something onto the track, chunk of ice, a small stick ect. That would derail the Stainz.


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## MVS (May 25, 2021)

I agree with you. That is why I hope the resettable fuse will solve the problem. With the wind blowing obstacles on the track causing derailing, I wouldn't be able to completely solve this
problem with the train running unsupervised.


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