# MRC 6200??



## erndog (Oct 23, 2012)

how does this unit connect to the track, solder on leads? also bov contained t seperate leads with toggle switches and a small unit with 2 brass progs on it that provisions for wires to go onto it from the transformer i guess i looked at it and connot see how it would attach to my 2 rail g gauge arstocraft track?? if it is to soldered onto the track what gauge wire should i use and how much track length will this unit power and can i run 2 units for a large layout?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

There are starter set power leads available separately for adding power to the track, plus there are rail clamps with power connectors 
LGB 50160 cable or 50161 clamp pair. 

Clamps are made by Hillman and split jaw, and the rail size for Aristocraft, Usa Trains, Train-Li and LGB is code 332. There are other manufacturers and rail sizes (215 and 250)


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By erndog on 27 Oct 2012 02:13 AM 
how does this unit connect to the track, solder on leads? also bov contained t seperate leads with toggle switches and a small unit with 2 brass progs on it that provisions for wires to go onto it from the transformer i guess i looked at it and connot see how  it would attach to my 2 rail g gauge arstocraft track?? if it is to soldered onto the track what gauge wire should i use and how much track length will this unit power and can i run 2 units for a large layout?


Erndo, It is tough reading all your questions - maybe put then on a new line so they are sepa rated? (This isn't a text app!) You can solder the leads to the rail but you need a big iron as brass conducts the heat away quickly. The gizmo with the two prongs may plug in the side of the track so the prongs fit under the rail? Use thick wire - 14 gauge might be good, as the loco may draw 1 or 2 amps . The rail is thick, so the power unit can feed miles of track - your 500ft is fine BUT the joints are the problem. There will be losses, hence the need to feed the rils every so often. As you are ndoors, try just. One feed and if the train slows at the far side, run some more feed wires close to where it has problems. The separate leads with toggles may be for these itches ? Are they spring loaded center off ?


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Pete Thornton on 29 Oct 2012 04:37 PM 
Posted By erndog on 27 Oct 2012 02:13 AM 
how does this unit connect to the track, solder on leads? also bov contained t seperate leads with toggle switches and a small unit with 2 brass progs on it that provisions for wires to go onto it from the transformer i guess i looked at it and connot see how  it would attach to my 2 rail g gauge arstocraft track?? if it is to soldered onto the track what gauge wire should i use and how much track length will this unit power and can i run 2 units for a large layout?


Erndog, It is tough reading all your questions - maybe put then on a new line so they are separated? (This isn't a text app!). OK forget it. This iPad won't let me insert line returns!!! You can solder the leads to the rail but you need a big iron as brass conducts the heat away quickly. The gizmo with the two prongs may plug in the side of the track so the prongs fit under the rail? Use thick wire - 14 gauge might be good, as the loco may draw 1 or 2 amps . Home AC-type wire is good. The rail is thick, so the power unit can feed miles of track - your 500ft is fine BUT the joints are the problem. There will be losses, hence the need to feed the rils every so often. As you are ndoors, try just one feed and if the train slows at the far side, run some more feed wires close to where it has problems. The separate leads with toggles may be for the switches ? Are they spring loaded center off ?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Toggle switches come in several configs, I'm assuming that yours are either SPST or DPST. I think one power pack was used to power two loops of track and turned the power off to one loop while the other ran. The toggles are in line to the tracks. We covered ways to attach the leads in another thread. 1. use the screws under the ties, 2. use the joiner screws (not very likely because the screws are short) 3. Use a rail clamp, regular or desinged for power. 4 Solder if brass. 
16 ga. is probably adequate, go thicker if you want, can't hurt. Depends more on what you will be running and the Amps each power using device requires. 

What you have in that box was one man's solution, not a product that everyone uses. Pictures would help us figure out what you have. 
You speak of 500' of track, is that in a loop or two or linear, switches for sidings, passing tracks? If the passing siding rails are insulated at each end, one of the toggles may have controlled it. 

Happy Rails 

John


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