# Challenger Kitbash from two Pacifics



## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've been wanting a Challenger for a long time, it comes through here about once or twice a year. With help from Ray and Marty, with their photos of their Big Boys and Challengers and the photos I took of the Challenger here on stops and #3977 that is on display in North Platte I got off to a good start.

[url]http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/JerryBarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/3977ChallengeralowRez.jpg[/b][/url]
[/b]oversized pic (lareger than 640pixels wide) changed to a link Jim Francis, Moderator 



On my computer, I pieced together my pictures and printed off a full size 1/29th plan to match the wheels on the Pacifics(which are just the right size!). I started with the tender, had read someplace that if you don't build it first, you'll never get it done! 









I used some bulkheads of plywood, layered over some 1/16" plastic. Then embossed some copper foil with the rivet patterns, going right over the plan print out.









Then added details. Mike Kidman got me some Big Boy trucks, had made my own side frames, did not know he was sending those also, still need to mount those.

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/JerryBarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTnderSidFrmsLg.JPG[/b]
oversized pic (greater than 640 pixels wide) changed to a link Jim Francis, Moderator 



Once the tender was about done, I tore apart the two old Pacifics I had obtained. One had a black plastic u-joint, the other a brass tube joint with two slots in it. Different runs I guess. Once they were torn down I could see how to join them up. Rear drive is fixed, but I needed a 1/2" rise to have room below the running boards for the pipework, so I used some plywood blocks. The front drive got a drop for clearance with some washers and a bolt, since it will pivot. 









A Graupner u-joint hooks the front motor(which is mounted to the front of the rear fixed drive) to the front drive and allows it to Pivot.










A 1/2" square tubing lays across to bolt the two together.









Runs fine, so now to the details-be awhile before I'm back!








The front smoke box you see here will be removed, pistons will stay where they are. Smokebox has to be lengthened and mounted to the boiler, which does not pivot.



having fun, Jerry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I wondered what happened to this project. 

Keep the pictures coming Jerry. This will be great. 

Regards, Greg


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

wow jerry!!! keep up good work!


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## San Juan (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow!!!!

Nice work so far, should be a show stopper when completed.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a video of the first run.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Great idea--I'll be watching this one closely


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry. 

You..... 










More pics Mr. Insane !


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## Tom Lapointe (Jan 2, 2008)

*Jerry, looks like you're off to a GREAT *







*start on this project. Seems to run very smoothly, even in it's current stripped-down form. *







*Keep us posted on your progress (going to be a BEAST! *







*). *







*Tom*


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, those pix were about a month's worth of work and head scratchin' to figure it all out. I've also thought a guy could use a new Pacific, but only need one set of drivers with a motor and have the front drivers just rolling along, since the newer Pacifcs are pretty strong.


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Jerry, 
Your project looks great and it's going to be a lot of fun to see the progress that you make. Below is an idea you may want to use for the drive wheels. Seemed to work ok for me and looks good from a distance.
Joel

I cut out a pattern for the divers and traced all of the holes onto the backside of some thin plastic.










The holes were cut out, and the insert was painted.








They were then placed over the existing spokes to see which spokes would have to be cut out.









Once the spokes were removed, the insert was dropped into place.








Not bad if you look at it from a distance.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

JOel, 
I had remembered that, already have some drawn out and started cutting. Wish I had recalled who had done it, took a lot of work to come up with a pattern. All 3 are a different pattern, but I had to alter it some to fit in with the Pacific counterweights. You don't feel the removal of some spokes weakened the wheels any? Right now I am using the big Pacific weights, wonder if that is too much?


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Jerry, 
You are right; cutting out the spokes did weaken the wheels a little. If I were to do it again, I think I would fill the areas between the remaining spokes with some kind of epoxy like JB Weld to beef them up a little bit. (Some day I would like to try resin castings in the center with stainless steel turned tires. That would be quite a project!) You also are correct about building the tender first. I’m still working on one for my most resent model and can’t seem to get the motivation to get it done! 
BTW your tender looks great! What technique did you use to make your rivets?


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## CLRRNG (Sep 26, 2008)

Jerry,
Who better then to challenge a Challenger. 

Looks Great 

Glen


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Joel, 
I used some copper craft foil. Laid the print out of the tender on it and used a pounce wheel for the rivet patterns. It has little points on a wheel, as you push it it makes rivet looking patterns. I used two sizes, one was an old leather or sewing pounce thing. Other was a commercial one from an art/sign shop store. Just type in pounce wheel on the internet and you'll see a pix. I use mine all the time for stuff. I think I'll just leave the spokes behind, make them flat black, paint the insert a shiny black.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

It might be better the other way around, the flat black will probably be easier to see than the gloss under normal lighting conditions.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Wow, great project! Looking forward to seeing more as it progresses.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I had made my own Centipede tender side frames for the Challnger, then had received some USA side frames, but they were $90, so I decided to use the ones I made, which I thought looked fine, after painting.








I did use the USA tender trucks though, they were not as pricey. 









Front angle.








Back view, you can see the taped off front of a Pacific front light that I'm using for the back. I need to put back on the two Pacific

marker lights that I'm using for the back marker lights.








having fun!


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

Posted By vsmith on 01/11/2009 5:36 PM
Jerry. 

You..... 










More pics Mr. Insane ! 


Gee Vic, you caught me in the morning before I had time to run a comb accross my head.
[/b]


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

A great modeling job, Jerry. It will be great to see it pulling the NTCRR coal train in September...


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Impressive! _Most _impressive!! (Obi-Wan has taught you well...) Seriously, that is some nice scratch building and bashing!! I completely agree with Stan that it's going to look _great _at Marty's place in September (of course this means that you now have a definite deadline!)


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Just looking at the tender sitting on a piece of LGB track gives a good since of how large and bulky this locomotive is going to be. The tender centipede trucks look great painted. Now that you have made the centipede trucks, the locomotive trailing truck should be no problem at all for you! 
Keep those photos coming. 
Joel


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

Very impressive. You have a great eye for detail. Looking forward to more pics.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys, never considered myself a detail man though. I go for a 'look' but not much on details I seem to break them off! It is HUGE, sits almost 7" above the rails to the top. 18.5" long. Here's a shot of the top, I was happy how it turned out. Making up a coal load of real coal soon.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

We have aguy here in Houston that buiilt a Challenger from two Pacificss some years ago. Ill see if I can find some pics of his engine, I do know that it ran great and he still brings it to our larger train shows when we have them here. His name is John Winnie. They would smoke like crazy. 
Jerry , you are doing a great job on your project.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
The "arts and craftsman" of large scale. All that modeling, artist skill and love for locomotives has become the "perfect storm" resulting in a great scratch build.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
Here is one pic of John's Three engines that he built. I am gonna try to get more detailed pics for you.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like a heck of a modeler. That a Big BOy he made? More pix!!  

Jerry


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## Engineercub (Oct 18, 2008)

WOW Jerry! What an incredible job so far. Keep up the great work and keep the pics coming. You really are a pro mister ^^ 

-Will


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
Got word tonite that our editor will have more pics for us in the next couple of days. maube some of them will be of help to you.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks gibs(not sure of your name-not on your bio).


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I spent hours taking off the Pacific wheels, wanted to move the crank from the center wheel to the back wheel. Some members here gave me advice on how to heat up the screws to get them off. I found needle nose Vise Grips did better than a phillips screwdriver. I put on my Boxpok 'hubcaps' also to disguise the Pacific wheels some.








I am using about half of the boilers from each pacific, I cut them at the safetys. I will have a 8.25" gap to fill in. I made up some bulkheads that I glued them to

and will attach the plastic to when I curve it over. Maybe I can use my 1/16" but it is sort of hard to curve. Bought some plastic signs at the hardware store that I might use. I sanded off all the cast in lines/details.









This thing is gonna be BIG!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Better get ya a big truck to take to Marty's this year.







Later RJD


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've got one, my F-150!


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## Ron Senek (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry he was talking about a real truck.


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## silverstatespecialties (Jan 2, 2008)

OUTSTANDING Jerry!! Keep up the good work!!


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, 
Nanme is Art Gibson.
Spoke with John Winnie today and he is gonna get us some pics. He did build two of the Challengers and one Big Boy.

Art


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Art, that John is one heck of a worker/modeler!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Using some plastic from a sign I got at the hardware store I filled in the boiler(some thicker plastic under it) and modified the Pacific cab to look like a Challenger's cab. Roberts lines castings on top.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking great Jerry! This thing is going to be a HOSS when it's done.  

I like the way you will have the firebox after the last driver, I think that's one of the things that gives the Allegheny such a good look. Can't wait to see how it progresses from here.


Raymond


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, I agree, it will be a monster! 

Keep it up! 

Greg


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks guys, I'm having fun, but the more I work on this, the more I realize what is to be done. But, the process of building is what I enjoy and I sure don't have to finish it by any certain date.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Having more fun than a human being ought to be allowed to have....heh, heh, heh! She's looking great!!


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry 

Nice work so far. Look forward to more of your progress. 

Terl


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Added some craft foil that I embossed with rivet patterns, to the cab and lower boiler. Top boiler has been getting the metal duct tape that you peel the backing from, but I emboss it before that. The craft foil I used 3M emblem adhesive, sorta nasty stuff. The craft foil holds the embossing better and is thicker, so you get more of an effect. Been too nice the last couple of days to work on it, been running trains instead-wild for January to have 60 degree weather in Neb!


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## RonTeten (Feb 15, 2008)

Fantastic Jerry!!!!!!!! I will have to come out and see it first hand!!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah Ron, have to venture out to the wild country.

Here's some more work I did on the Chall, been nice here so ran trains for awhile, instead of building, now in the teens though.









I used metal duct tape for most of the boiler cladding. Had some copper adhesive backed strips I used for the boiler bands.








Re worked the piece on top in front of the cab. Thanks for all the good pix Ray! Sure helped a LOT!


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Here are 18 pictures of the Challengers in build mode. Hope they are of help tp you. Will have to find way for the other 17 pics.

HTTP://WWW.flickr.com/photos/mergib



http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/gibs035/008.jpg
_image converted to link - exceeds 640 pixel max. width_


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Art, maybe you can email the rest to me at home?


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well it's getting there Jerry. How does it run? Later RJD


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Thoinl I have them there for you now. They are in flickr. There may be some of my S2 there as weel I can only have three locatiosn in Flickr


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, Art
Fascinating builds. Enjoy such posts showing the talents and creativity resutling in a wonderful working model.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

More boring Challenger pix. Ray sent me some good pix of his MTH Chall, made the sand domes yesterday. Used some copper foil that I embossed the patterns onto and pressed them out, mostly using the handle of an x-acto knife.








I tried them on the Chall boiler and was happy with the look.








Been working on the trailing truck today. Used both Pacifics that I put together to make it, still some details left. May put on the l
ittle pipes/wires whatever they are!


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

How are you planning to paint the foil tape, Jerry? I have a lot of that stuff and it's very slick. I'd be a little worried that paint won't stick. I'm also planning to steal your method


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used copper foil tape for years, with no problems, same with the craft metal foil, the metal duct tape is new to me though. Might try a shot of paint on some tomorrow. 
Jerry


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## CLRRNG (Sep 26, 2008)

*Jerry,* 
*You are one fast mover of a model builder. I cannot believe how much you can get done in a short time.* *Let me guess you are retired? Your model is beautiful. Well keep up the good work and I look forward to your inaugural video of your home grown challenger.* 
*Glen*


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Jerry, 
The trailing truck looks terrific and the sand domes are looking good too. Don’t worry about “boring photos”. Sick, hard-core modelers like me love them! 
Your pressed foil technique is very interesting and could lend itself well to a modeling project that I had planned for in the distant future. I would like to make a Lionel tinplate style locomotive and the foil over a wood form with detail parts from Electric Norman may be the way to go. 
Keep up the good work. 
Joel


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Been scratching my poor head trying to figure out the pipework on the C, finally got a start on that. You can see the modified cylinders here on the rear drive segments pistons. I made some flanges, used some Ozark castings and molded/cast some flanges. The Challenger has it's longest rods going to the rear driver, not the center, as on the Pacific. I took the middle wheel and moved it to the back. This meant making the rods longer, I liked that it made it more Challenger 'looking' besides being accurate. I cut the plastic rods in half and sanded them a bit to fit into the brass rectangle shapes. I used an 00-80 bolt and nut(Microfasteners) to hold them in place. Seem to work fine. Note the boxpox 'hubcap' inserts I made to go over the Pacific wheels. I made the tanks out of 3/4" copper with 1/4" stove bolt heads for the ends, sanding off the markings.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Does this make the rear driver in each "unit" blind? 

Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good so fr Jerry. Just wondering if you could have made the long rod entirely out of brass instead of a mix? Later RJD


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Not sure what you mean Greg, on the 'blind' thing. RJ, when you are 80 miles from the closest hobby shop and running low on brass, you use what you have on hand, didn't have much but if I used part of the plastic ones I had enough. Hate ordering stuff and waiting around for it. Besides, once they are painted, what the heck? Remember, I'm a 10' man, sometimes wander into 5' territory though!


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

I like the results you get by using materials on hand. The wheel inserts look great. Will the rear set of drivers pivot around curves or will it be rigid to the boiler like on the prototype. I've seen models do both and there are pluses and minuses to each. I think by a blind driver Greg meant that it is flangless. 

Terl


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Good work on the rods Jerry. That part of the project is usually the most time consuming because geometry can be so unforgiving! I agree with what you said about long distances to the hobby shop, the “ten foot” rule and miracle of paint. All three are fundamental beliefs for those of us in the cult of the kit bash. 
Keep those photos coming. 
Joel


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a pix of the smoke unit mods for the Challenger. I wanted smoke to come out of both stacks. NO room for two smoke units. I found a old Pacific stack in the parts I took off for the Challenger bash. It had two tubes, so I flipped it over and glued it to the newer Aristo smoke unit. Used some J&B weld later to fill the gaps and reinforce it.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I finally got the front drive for the Challenger done. Took a lot of fiddling. The cylinders and the supports for the valve gear all have to be part of the front drive, so you have to make some supports to hold it. There is also one painted brass piece that runs forward from the motor block to support the front cylinders, the front pilot connects to the cylinder unit. The lengthened rods had to be just the right length also, or it would bind up. They had to be longer because I moved the center Pacific wheel to the back, since that is where the CHallenger's is at, that way you get that LONG rod running forwards.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
Next you will be converting the AC Mike....enjoying following the progress


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I put the C parts together, after I did some pipework to see how it was looking. Gonna be big! 









The big pipes are 3/8" copper tubing(some brass on the other side). I got some small 45's and 90's from my air conditioning guy.
Still have a lot of small pipework to do, lights smokebox front/etc.....FUN!


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I did a test run with the C yesterday and it was a disaster, kept derailing. I discovered the wheels had got out of gauge, so I fixed that last night and tried it again today. It ran real well at first with no problems, then started derailing again, the drives seemed to be twisitng, so I may have a bind, plus I am sure I need to move the pivot point on the front drive, but that involves some wiring changes. Always something....
Here's a still pix:








Front view:









You Tube Video:


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

It's looking great Jerry, don't get discouraged. Is it possible you've got wheel slip, and they are getting out of quarter? I'm not even soure how I'd re-gage a Pacific's wheels


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## rangerjoel (Jan 4, 2008)

Good morning Jerry, 
Sorry to hear that the test run did not go as well as expected. One of the problems I had was screws either backing out or tightening up on the drive wheels and side rods. A little red lock tight may solve your problem. Also thanks for posting the You Tube video. I love seeing those side rods in action. 
Joel


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry, I am not an expert, but I did follow some of those very detailed threads about the eccentric angle in relationship to the driver. 

It looks as though your eccentrics are not quite in the right place, and I see a huge amount of travel on your eccentric rod, even though the position of the reversing assembly seems to be close to neutral. (OK guys, I may have some of the terminology wrong). 

But looking at the mechanism, it looks like it's moving "Stroke" is way too long. 

Regards, Greg


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 02/26/2009 3:19 PM
Jerry, I am not an expert, but I did follow some of those very detailed threads about the eccentric angle in relationship to the driver. 

It looks as though your eccentrics are not quite in the right place, and I see a huge amount of travel on your eccentric rod, even though the position of the reversing assembly seems to be close to neutral. (OK guys, I may have some of the terminology wrong). 

But looking at the mechanism, it looks like it's moving "Stroke" is way too long. 

Regards, Greg

Greg has a good point here. Looking at this picture for example...










The eccentric crank is set about 90° in relation to the wheel center, when it should be only slightly ahead-of-center. So instead of pointing to about 12 o'clock as in this picture, it should be more like around 4 o'clock. Not vitally important on a sparkie, of course, but if it's causing excessive motion of the valve gear, that could be a possible source of your binding problem.


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

The return cranks and radius rods do appear to be in the wrong positions. However, since they are non functional, how much can they affect the drive system? To set them correctly have the return crank directly below the centerline of the driver. The other end of the crank, with the radius rod attached, should be forward of the driver, and the bolt connecting the return crank to the radius rod should be exactly inline with the centerline of driver axles. (this takes many more words to describe than to do) 
An example is at the 0:29 mark of the video, the conecting (side) rods appear to be at the bottom of their travel. If so, when the crank is directly under the axle center, the radius rod should be in front of the driver, and parallel with the centerline of the axles. 

Does this incorrect positioning create a bind? I cant tell. My guess would be it does not, since all the parts are decorative. 

John


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

And another thing... 

the connecting rods coupling the drivers together appear out of sync in that picture. The 1st and 2nd driver appear ahead (ie rotated clockwise) of the main (3rd) driver. It shows up as the connecting rod not being exactly straight between the drivers....


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By John Allman on 02/26/2009 3:46 PM
the connecting rods coupling the drivers together appear out of sync in that picture. The 1st and 2nd driver appear ahead (ie rotated clockwise) of the main (3rd) driver. It shows up as the connecting rod not being exactly straight between the drivers....

I think that's due to the sprung center driver sitting lower than the others, since there are no rails supporting the drivers in that picture.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By John Allman on 02/26/2009 3:42 PM
Does this incorrect positioning create a bind? I cant tell. My guess would be it does not, since all the parts are decorative. 


The parts may be decorative (if this was a live steamer it wouldn't run at all in this configuration), but they are all interconnected, and if they're reaching the limit of their range of motion, they could still cause a bind. Watching the video, especially on the rear engine, it looks like the angle between the eccentric rod and the expansion link is practically a straight line at one point in the wheel rotation, which means those parts are being stretched about as far as they can go.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I took out the spring in the center driver of the front drive unit. Will that affect anything? I also moved the front pivot point forward. Not sure exactly what you guys are talking about on the eccentric's location or where it should be. Appreciate the help!


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
This graphic will give some insight as to the timing relative to eccentric


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## John Allman (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry - in the picture reposted above by RWJENKINS you can see the whole front engine assembly. What needs to change is the crank on the main (rearmost) driver is vertical in the picture. It should rotated clockwise until the small end (connected to the rod between the crank and the expansion link (funky thing that rocks back and forth and looks abit like a paper clip) is directly above the center of the rearmost driver axle. (that means move it 30-45 degrees clockwise) 

If you have it correct, then when the crank is as far forward as it can be the end of the crank with the radius rod will be pointing backward, and directly above the axle of the driver. 

Taking out the spring on the center driver may well be the whole problem. If in removing it, you can now move the center driver without the other drivers, you have change the geometry of the whole thing. Is there some specific reason you wanted to remove that spring?


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay, I got it!  Looked at my new Pacific and re-did the eccentric, that took out that extreme motion. Thanks! I just thought maybe the spring was causing some problems, the rear drive unit does not have a sprung center driver, nor does my new Pacific, so figured to make both drive units the same. With all the linkage hooked up, it turns nice and easy by hand, so MAYBE this was the problem. Will get it back together tomorrow sometime, nasty weather though and won't be able to test it out for a few days.
Sure appreciate the help! Jerry


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry don't be so cheap buy some some rollers to do your testing on.







You can really view what is going on. Sure saves a lot of times also. later RJD


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I've got em RJ! Plan to put each drive on tomorrow, only have enough for 4 axles though. Bought them for the LS Mikado.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

My u-joint idea for the pivot point did not work out. I contacted John Winnie down in Texas , he's made two of them and a Big Boy. He used Plastrut gears and mounted the motor on top of the axle block. I finally got my gears-were on back order and got them on. Works GREAT! Runs nice and pivots well, so back to work on the C. Thanks John!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Very interesting Jerry. What kind of speed with this gear arrangement do you get? Later RJD


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Both gears are the same size, so the speed matches the rear drive unit which still has the stock u-joint.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I got some paint on the Challenger, Krylon Satin Black. Still need to do the lights and a few other details. Having fun, but will miss working on it. Still trying to figure out how to move it around and where to keep it, big thing!








I also need the #'s and lettering on the tender.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

looks great Jerry! The foil constructio gives it the look of a working loco. That long smokebox looks great too. How is it running?


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Wow Jerry loooking Great! Someday we going have a UP family Train parking at marty layout Sept thingy? The UP E-8,Challenger, Big Boy, The Gas- Turbine, Dash-9, even alot UP diesel parking on the marty main line train. for taking a photos shoot?????


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds good Bryan. Runs fine, nasty weather here for awhile, will get it out and shoot a video when I can.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I got the Challenger all wired for lights, including inspection lights under the running board. All are led's, I put a thin wash of orange paint on them to warm them up a bit. When the weather is better, I'll do a night run. My wife cut the large lettering for me from vinyl, she used to run a sign biz out of the house. The smaller lettering I did on ink jet vinyl, then cut them out and peeled off the backing and stuck them on. I did the front herald that way also. I made it be #3988, just for something a bit different.









Full side view with tender.








The drama shot.









Now it's back to the shop for a bit of weathering and some adjustments.


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Jerry,

WOW, very nice, looks good with the lettering. You'r wife did a great job with the lettering on it.

Chuck


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Epic!! That's on grand looking model! Nice work. It really captures the modern steam look of the Challenger. How long is it overall? It looks huge


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

32" for the loco, 18" for the tender.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

The end is good, Jerry. Super job. It looks fantastic. It'll pull Marty's coal train right nicely. Well done....


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great all painted up. 

Terl


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, what weight you put your the challenger? I wonder prototype 1:1 scale into 1:29 scale should be about 35lbs weight. I sure you be fine to pulling marty coal train if the challenger have more weight.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Not sure of the weight Bryan, but it is heavy. I did use the weights that were in the Pacifics that I bashed. Had to cut up the one so the motor on top of the pivot truck would clear. It's gear noise from that you hear as it goes by. Will crank up the sound. Once the gears break in it should quiten down some. I finished up the cow catcher(Pilot?) last night. Had mulled over awhile how to do it. I used the Pacific's added some triangles the size of the bottom angle, including one at the top of the attachment bars, so it is taller than the Pacifics, going clear to the top of the front. I then added in plastic strips and filled in between with channel that I had filed a curve into. So, it's sorta close, I did leave out the segments across the middle.








Hope this isn't too big, I reduced it to 600 pixels wide.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Wow Jerry, that really turned out great!! Very cool project, nicely done!


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

Please allow me to add to the growing praise for this model. That's one gorgeous locomotive, and a true inspiration to kitbashers. I never would have thought of a Challenger, looking at an Aristo pacific.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Jerry. How is it running? Later RJD


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry are you plan to add front coupleron your cowcatcher? if you need a helper loco?


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## DarkTalon (Nov 8, 2008)

Posted By Bryan Smith on 04/13/2009 6:58 PM
Jerry are you plan to add front coupleron your cowcatcher? if you need a helper loco? 




As big as that thing is, I don't think it'd really need a helper anytime in the near future


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, That is one very impressive locomotive! What a super job of modeling. I'm glad you got everything running right, that had to have taken some tinkering. Thanks for posting all your construction photos.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Still tinkering with it some.


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## Ted_Roy (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry, 

Let me add to the list of those praising your work. What a beautiful engine! Great work! 

Ted.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Jerry, 
That is a master piece of modeling. I can't lavish enough praise on your work.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry,
I finally got some old video of John Winnies Challenger and Big Boy. Thought you might like to see them. Otto Halek made these videos back in 2000 and 2002 I believe.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry,
I finally got some old video of John Winnies Challenger and Big Boy. Thought you might like to see them. Otto Halek made these videos back in 2000 and 2002 I believe.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, great videos, amazing smoke!


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Jerry
Life is too short....now that you have mastered "plastic/sparky" got to give "full metal/steam" modeling a try! Congratulations on your Challenger.


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## Rayman4449 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey Jerry, sorry I haven't replied before now. Excellent job on the new Challenger! To create a model that actually functions and operates has to require a lot of creativity and engineering, kudos. 

Nice videos too of the Challenger and Big Boy, he did a nice job on those as well. Looks like they smoke pretty good too. Jerry you are now in a very exclusive club to have one of the very few 1:29 scale Challengers in existance.










Raymond


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

*Jerry... You out did your self... Fantastic work.. That looks so real and the detail is great.. Love it and you only made one???? Where's the one for Calif. lol.. *


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