# To loop or not??



## sailbode (Jan 2, 2008)

As I stare out at the beginnings of my new outdoor railway (covered with snow), I'm wondering if I should have a complete loop or just reversing loops on each end with a single track running form one end to the other? This will be a battery powered set up so track power polarity issue will not be a problem. Space is not an issue. how much $$ I have to spend on track IS an issue. Lastly, I like the idea of my train running as long a distance as possible....giving the alusion of the train leaving the area and then returning a while later. I've never ran a "reversing loop and my question is, what are the cons? Right off I realize this will limit the length of my train to whatever the length of the loops are. Anything else I'm not considering? Are reversing loops a pain?
Thanks,
Don


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Are you running track power or battery?

If it's DC track power you ca use the massoth module reviewed in this months GR. Or make you om, following Toddallin's design 


If it's DCC track power you can use an autoreverser that detects a short and reverses polarity

If it's battery, you don't have to do much of anything


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## Doug C (Jan 14, 2008)

Don; 

if you're thinking that way go for the largest curves ya can fit for the loops and the longest length btwn. Maybe a long siding now or to be cut in later on. Go big now is my vote ! 



pssst lownote READ his second line of his thread; re battery op'










doug c


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

If Space is not an issue I would go with a loop. At least you wont be limited. Another option is doing a dog bone loop or the folded dogbone. It will give you more feet to run trains.


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## sailbode (Jan 2, 2008)

Shawn, 
I originally planned on a dog bone, but the draw back is it would use a lot more track. Like Doug suggested, "longest length between" seems appealing unless I'm missing some large negative aspect to reversing loops. 
D 
PS: Low note, yup...battery all the way and incidently, I'm also an electric bass player...and a cello player!


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Don, 

The only 2 things I don't like about a return loop are: 

Your train ends up running over the same track twice per round trip, but if you want to simulate a train leaving and then returning, this would be OK. 

The other is you have to have a spring switch on the loop, or throw it (either by power or manually) each time the train runs through it. 

If I were you, I would build a return loop with a spring switch, then if you don't like that you can alway convert to a full loop when cash permits you to buy more track. Either way, it is up to you, after all it IS YOUR RAILROAD. 

Chris


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## sailbode (Jan 2, 2008)

Yea Chris, 
That's where I'm leaning, but I like to bounce these ideas off the forum as there is a lot of experience here to tap into. 
D


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

i think, what chris writes is sound. 
start out with reverse loops. 
to change it later (if desired) is no problem.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Start with loops at each end, complete the dogbone later? 

Regards, Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

I've got reverse loops and battery power. I did that because I couldn't completely close off the back yard with a loop, and I like the "out and back" aspect of the operations. It fits in very well with the particular branch I'm modeling. The only real drawback to the reverse loops is the switch at the close of each loop. Spring switches are a good way to do business, but be careful with locomotives that have front pilots. They've got to have sufficient downward pressure to push the points the opposite direction. I tried for a while just letting those points flop back and forth without a spring at all. It worked for a while because I could tighten the screws on the throw bar so that they held the points in place. After a while, though, the points kept moving towards the center and wouldn't close all the way. So, it was back to a spring. I use a very light pressure on the spring--enough to hold the points against the stock rails, but not much more. I still have to watch out on my steamers with "weak" front pilots. Making them a bit heavier is on my "to do" list, but unless I'm running for an open house, I'm throwing that switch anyway. If I'm running for an open house, I'm running one of three locos that's 99% on those switches. 

Later, 

K


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe you need a snap spring in your switch:










The safety pin is compressed, so it pushes the holes apart. This forces the points all the way to one side or the other. When nudged by the flange, the points will go all the way to the other side.

With this, your train would enter the reverse loop the way it last came out, then switch the points as it leaves, so next time, it goes around the other way.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Thanks for the photo, Tom. That's what I'm using on mine. I like the fact that each time you go through the loops, you go through in the opposite direction. It adds a nice bit of variety if you're just sitting out watching trains run. 

Later, 

K


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## pdk (Jan 2, 2008)

After starting with a single track with reversing loops I eventually went with a full loop. The latter iis good for running more than one train at a time, the former was good for head-on collisions.


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