# Fitting out Emma



## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't normally work in 1:13.7; but, the new Accucraft Emma was at ECLSTS this year. It's a nicely built basic model at a very moderate price and I just couldn't resist. I always make a number of mechanical and cosmetic changes to my models and the purpose of this thread is to document what I'm doing to my loco. One observation before going into specifics -- my other three Accucraft locos have all-brass bodies and cabs. Not so with Emma. Her cab and cab roof are mild steel. The water tank has a brass wrapper, but the end panels are also steel. This use of steel is not a problem, just a surprise.

The first thing I do with every piece of rolling stock before I start running it on my layout is to install Kadee couplers set at a height to match the Kadee gauge. This is a matter of personal preference and I make the conversion without exception. Emma comes equipped with link-and-pin clevises which are quite low. I raised the clevises so that their bottom holes aligned with the top mounting holes in the loco end beams. I bonded filler pieces to the tops of the end beams and drilled and tapped them to align with the top holes in the clevises. I used Kadee #904 straight shank couplers. I cut the shanks to length and drilled them to fit the clevis pins that came with the loco. I milled the tops of the shanks to make them fit and put the couplers at the right height.










I always equip my locos with radio control. Despite the ample cab, finding a place for the servo which operates the johnson bar was a challenge. I finally bracketed it to the front of the cab and notched the bottom of the water tank so that the tank will lift off easily.










The throttle servo was easy to install and I used a chain drive.










I used double-sided tape to hitch the R/C receiver to the cab wall on the fireman's side and put the battery clip on the floor on the engineer's side.










I installed both a WeeBee goodall valve and pressure relief valve from Jim Sanders. I like his goodall valve because the water bottle hose end bayonets in place and it's not necessary to hold a hot fitting while pumping water in. The pressure relief valve blows off very positively and does not weep the way many stock valves do. The last mechanical change will be to add a Summerlands chuffer which is now on order. The chuffer makes a pleasing sound, but its most useful characteristic is its ability to keep steam oil from blowing out the stack and messing up the loco and the cars behind it.

Next on the agenda will be cosmetic changes to add detail. More on that later.

Llyn


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## roadranger (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice mods, Llyn! 
Is the throttle chain Delrin? So, it won't melt under heat? Who is your source for the sprockets and chain?
Another useful mod is the lubricator dam, found on another thread, to cut down on steam oil consumption and mess. 
All of my engines have Chuffers on them, but my small deck layout is getting pretty gummed up in between and on the rails.

Also, did you cut the receiver antenna, or do they come that short?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Jim,

I don't know what the chain is made of. I have used it successfully on two other locos without any heat damage problems. I buy all of my servos, sprockets, chain and the like from Servo City. http://www.servocity.com/ 

You are right about the chuffer. The oil doesn't go away -- it just dribbles out of the bottom of the loco. My Accucraft Climax has an adjustable lubricator and it seems to do quite a lot better at not making excessive messes.

I am using a Spektrum DX6i R/C system and the receiver antennas really are that short. Actually, the receiver you see in the rear view has two such antennas. Out of sight further forward in the cab (it's visible in the top view) is a secondary receiver which also has two short antennas. It is a very reliable R/C system.

Llyn


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Llyn--


It looks like a neat installation! I am sure I would want to do that too...my line has some ups and downs!

By the way, It was fun to meet you in York. I hope to see you again running your new toy!

--Eric


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

The throttle servo was easy to install and I used a chain drive 
Lyn, 
I use the same chain and stuff (and as you say it seems to take the heat just fine.) Could you expand a little on the install of the chain? I find that the sprockets never match the servo knurling so I have to make an adaptor. And they never fit the throttle either, so another adaptor is needed there! 

I know ServoCity now sells sprockets designed to fit HiTec servos but only the larger sizes. What size servo is yours - HS-55 or HS-65 ?


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Nice start Llyn, 
I think Emma will draw many folks to 7/8ths or 1/12th scale. Maybe some day Vance Bass will have a 'things to do with Emma" page on his website like for Ruby. At this price point more mods will be done on Emma I feel while locos like the Fairymead will remain as delivered. I know I have some big plans for my Emma to haul a train of Carl Malon's coaches and combine. I wonder what a caboose for such a train would look like, Hmmmm? 
Maybe all are not aware of the 7/8ths lounge where a lot of action in that scale takes place. Those that wish can have a look at 
7-8ths.info where there is lots of great modeling and archives containing great inspiration. 
Have fun, 
Tom


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Pete,

For this installation, I'm using a Hitec HS 5645MG to control the johnson bar and an HS 5245MG for the throttle. 

The drive sprocket was an exact fit and did not require any adapter. All of the sprockets which Servo City sells for use on Hitec servos are designed to fit a size C1 (24 tooth) spline. The Servo City listings always state the shaft size for each Hitec servo they offer. I've always chosen servos with C1 shafts and all has gone well.

For the driven sprocket, I always buy one with a smooth bore and attaching it to the throttle shaft can be a bit of an adventure. In this case, I had bought one of Jason Kovac's replacement throttle shafts which allows finer throttle control. His shaft proved to be 1/4" diameter and the driven gear was a light press fit. Once I was sure I had it positioned right, I cross-drilled through the gear hub and tapped for 2-56 and put in a screw. About as simple as it can get.

Hope this helped,
Llyn


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, Tom.

I have been following SE Lounge lately and expect to start posting there.

I've discovered that _Model Railroader_ published plans for a Bedford & Billerica open excursion car and I'm thinking of tackling making one. I've noticed that a SE Lounge contributor has been building a similar car.

Another possible project might be to build a caboose like the SR&RL numbers 556 through 568. Do you [or does anyone reading this post] know of a source of plans for this prototype?

Looks as if these 7/8n2 critters may be habit-forming. I'm contemplating signing up for a black Fairymead.

Llyn


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

servos with C1 shafts 
Thanks Llyn. All my servos are smaller and have the B1 shaft - those HS5645 look like serious machinery. I had noted that the sprockets come with a C1. I also found that some Accu throttles are 1/4" which makes the sprockets a push fit - all you have to do is fix them in place.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By llynrice on 07 Apr 2013 12:09 PM 
_{snip...}_ I've discovered that _Model Railroader_ published plans for a Bedford & Billerica open excursion car and I'm thinking of tackling making one. I've noticed that a SE Lounge contributor has been building a similar car. _{snip...}_
Llyn

Maybe you'll find the following of interest.









Billerica & Bedford R.R. c.1879/Reprint c. 1950 (PDF 5.56MB)[/b]


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, Steve! That's great. I look forward to reading it in detail.

Llyn


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Pete,

I first starting using larger servos like the HS 5645MG in my K28 because the Johnson bar took some muscle to work. Then, the throttle shaft on my GS5 proved to turn stiffly. So, in went another big servo. Worse yet, the chain I'd been using was not strong enough and I changed up to chain with a .25" pitch. It's massive in a 1:32 cab, but the throttle shaft turns when I command it to…

Llyn


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Now that I have the initial mechanical work [such as installing R/C] out of the way, It's time to get going with adding details. So far, I've made changes to the tank; added bell, electrical generator, grab irons, handle for water fill hatch and foot steps at the front of the tank.










For the steam pipe going to the generator, I found good way to approximate elbow fittings. I bent the pipe up from brass wire and then slid on lengths of electrical shrink tubing at each bend. Once they were shrunk to fit, I trimmed their lengths until they looked right. Then, I put on short pieces of shrink tube over those at each end and, when shrunk, trimmed those over-pieces to match the initial pieces. I was quite happy with the resulting appearance.

Next up will be an electric headlight and some cab interior detail. The Emma makes a good starting point for kit bashing.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Looks nice, Lyn. I've been using that shrink-tube-on-wire trick too, for pipe elbows.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Ray,

Glad to hear that you also figured out this trick. It's simple and easy and surprisingly convincing.

Llyn


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn; 

Emma is really looking good. We have a 7/8 ths enthusiast named Steve King, just over in Rocky Mount, VA. I can't help but imagine how good Emma would look running of Steve's garden layout. 

Best wishes, 
David Meashey


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn, I am converting my Billy to SE with a Simply 7/8ths Dennis kit and will be fitting it out with additional brass details. I have some questions for you about what you did to your Emma. Please email me. My emails to you are bouncing, so I assume you have changed service.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Llyn-- 

what did you use for the generator? Finding a proper 7/8th scale generator is tricky but yours looks good.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Eric,

I used Trackside Details generator #TD-170. The bell is a TD-41 and the handrail stanchions are TDHRL from Jason Kovac. I realize that you only asked about the generator; but, I had looked the others up for Carl Weaver and thought you might find these data useful. The bell looks OK, but I'd like something a bit larger. Are you aware of any other resources?

Llyn


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

Llyn-- 
Nope I do not know of any other sources either except our workshops. The generator on WW&F #9 looks huge on the little forney. I guess I will have to make a proper 7/8th scale generator at some point. 
--Eric


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

I just made my own bell- the only commercial source I know of is Talisman, but good luck. I'll be posting pics soon with some description..


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray, I thought Talisman was taken over by IP-Engineering. I see brass parts, but no bell or parts for locomotives. So, I'd like to see your solution. For my tram, I found a nifty brass bell in 1:12 scale from a model boat company, but my source has since been lost.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

As part of an Email exchange with Jason Kovac today, he attached a CAD drawing of a SR&RL bell he is contemplating producing. If enough of us show interest, perhaps he'll feel that moving ahead with the project will be financially viable.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Posted By weaverc on 22 Apr 2013 03:49 PM 
Ray, I thought Talisman was taken over by IP-Engineering. I see brass parts, but no bell or parts for locomotives. So, I'd like to see your solution. For my tram, I found a nifty brass bell in 1:12 scale from a model boat company, but my source has since been lost.

Didn't know about IP taking them over- if so, that's great. Good to hear Jason may be thinking about supplying one too- there's certainly a need for that highly visible part. 

I ended up making my own as there was seemingly no other available. It's pretty straight-forward; the bell was turned up on the lathe from brass stock, the yoke and cradle were fabbed from bits of copper sheet, tube and even electrical wire. Those bits were carefully brazed together. If I have time this weekend, I plan to get some photos together to post.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Simon Harris of Modelearth in the UK is selling the Talisman parts. Steve King in VA recently told me that he will have them available too. Steve also mentioned on the SE Lounge (7-8th.info) that if the new govt proposal to require all businesses to collect sales tax for internet/mail transactions goes through he will shut down. 
Sorry I don't have contact info for the above handy but a visit to "the lounge" will give lots of info and links to them. 
Have fun, 
Tom


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a pdf of the catalog of Talisman castings and other 7/8 scale items Si Harris sells as Modelearth Design. 
If you'd like to see it send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can forward it to you. 
Have fun, 
Tom


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Since my last progress posting, I've installed a Summerlands chuffer which, as always, sounds great and really limits oil blowing out the stack. I have also installed a Regner #40405 Lubricator.



















I prefer to have an adjustable lubricator and Carl Weaver's modifications to his C25 prompted me to try the Regner which I bought from Jason at the Train Department. He also sold me a tee and compression fittings which saved the bother of soldering. So far, I've just used it on a 15 minute test run and it seemed to work well.

I'm also scratch building a headlight which I'll post when it's finished.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Because the Vermont Scenic Railway is a modern day tourist/museum line, I want the motive power to have the appropriate [more-or-less] modern safety appliances. The next thing to add, therefore, is an electric headlamp which [in 7/8n2 scale] is a scratch-build project. I discovered that a 3/4 inch copper plumbing cap would make about the right size housing. A short piece of 3/4 inch copper pipe would serve to be the carrier for the reflector. I turned a piece of wood dowel on my lathe to the shape of a parabolic reflector, sanded it, varnished it and coated it with grease. I coated the wood mandrel with JB Weld epoxy and put an ample amount of JB Weld in the copper pipe segment and plunged the mandrel in. I wiped away the excess and let it harden overnight. The next day, I chucked the ring in my lathe and grabbed the mandrel with pump pliers and a gentle twist popped it free leaving a reflector ready to use.











I milled a 1/2" wide flat on one side of the cap until the mill just broke through. To this, I fitted a base plate made of 1/2" wide K&S brass. I drilled each corner of the plate and epoxied in 00-90 hex head bolts to represent the mounting bolts. I drilled the reflector to accept a 6V Miniatronics 5.5mm dia. bulb. And drilled trough the base plate, the flat in the cap and the reflector and tapped 2-56 for a screw to hold all the pieces together. I painted the reflector white and the rest of the assembly engine black. The lens is a 22mm watch crystal glued to the reflector assembly. 










I bent up a mounting bracket, drilled it and the smoke box front and tapped for 2-56 hex head bolts.










I grounded the negative side of the servo battery pack in the cab and one of the headlight leads to a mounting bolt. The positive lead is a length of K&S brass wire 0.0625" diameter with shrink sleeve over it. The light turns on when I power up the servo.


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

Llyn, you and I must be channeling each other! I put tank steps on mine, and made a headlight (not for Emma, but for my #3) out of a copper pipe cap too! 

Q- what's the deal again with posting pics here, you have to be a first-class member? I can't remember...


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Ray,

It's a lot simpler if you are a first class member; but, you don't have to be. The primary issue is that you must have the pictures you want to post on a web site and each picture must have its own URL.


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Are foot boards and hand rails next?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Bruce,

As nearly as I can make out, tank engines do not typically have running boards along the tanks. Probably would make the loco too wide. I added steps to the front of the tank on each side and a rail on top of the tank so that the fireman can get at the water filling hatch. My next project is to add a number to the blank plate on the smoke box door.


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

Llyn,
Nice job, you've made some really nice mods and the loco looks authentic. I too have used a 3/4 cap for a headlight before, but for a reflector, I used a replacement AA Mini Maglite plastic reflector (Mag Instrument P/N 403-000-001 Reflector MMAA). It fits in the cap perfectly with no trimming. It also accepts a 3mm yellow glow LED. 

I have also used this reflector in my K-28 and C-25, neither of which had one. In those two cases, I had to cut down the diameter to fit the headlight housing.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Carl,

I had thought of using a flashlight reflector, but my friend Larry Green had done that and the plastic melted. So, I decided to go with the JB Weld which is heat resistant. I'm glad the flashlight reflector worked for you. Maybe you ended up with a better grade of plastic...


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## weaverc (Jan 2, 2008)

I've used the AA Maglite reflector 3 times and have never had a melting issue. Could it be that he had a fire in the smoke box?


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

Dragon breath when lighting up is hardly unknown in our hobby. I wasn't there and don't have all of the details. If you're reading this, Larry, perhaps you might weigh in.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Carl, it might have something to do with the smokebox being at least somewhat insulated. I've got a Bachmann reflector in the headlight of my EBT mike, and it holds up very well. But the outside of the smokebox never gets all that terribly hot because of the insulation that's inside. If I were to try that on a Ruby where the smokebox is uninsulated, I'd expect there to be more potential for damage. I don't have working headlights on either of my two Ruby bashes, so I can't say with any certainty. Of course, a thin layer of wood or other insulation between the headlight bracket and the smokebox would likewise mitigate heat transfer to the headlight in those cases as well. 

Later, 

K


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## Ray Cadd (Dec 30, 2008)

I was afraid of having a heat issue too, so I ended up making my reflector out of aluminum stock profiled on the lathe, then spun and polished at high speed. The whole thing plugs in and held be a single screw in back, center-drilled. Just another way to do it..


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## Shay Gear Head (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 02 May 2013 04:42 AM 
Are foot boards and hand rails next?

Llyn,

Notice I said foot boards NOT running boards. You know the things you ride on and hold on to when switching.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

I also did the machined aluminum reflector, several times now...I looked at mag lites and was tempted but again afraid of melting the thing.


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

My melted reflector was on my 3-cylinder Shay after prolonged running on rollers at a show. No cool breeze whipping past the headlight as the engine sped down the track during regular running! The plastic reflector was not a Maglite, just a no-name cheapy, which I'm sure was a factor in it's demise. Using a 1/2" ball end mill in the lathe toolholder, I now machine reflectors from brass, polishing them with 600 grit silicon carbide paper. With an incandecent bulb, this gives the "golden glow" of a steam-era headlight. 

Larry


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## Malcolm (Aug 3, 2011)

Llyn,

Have enjoyed seeing and reading about your modifications to EMMA. Great job. It has me thinking about adding some additional details to my EMMA. 

All,

Here is a link to a new video with Emma pulling seven scratch/parts built cars (last third of video). The cars have added weight, but have not weighed them. I estimate the total weight at about 15 lbs. Not a lot, but Emma sounds and looks good pulling them (at least to me anyway). 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0aEnSsPukv4

As I mentioned in a thread I started about the burner in Emma, I have added a Summerlands Chuffer and new throttle and gas valves from The Train Department.

Best Regards to All,
Malcolm S.


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## llynrice (Jan 2, 2008)

I have finally finished fitting out my Emma. Since my last post, I added a coal bin in the cab. Unfortunately, not enough room to stuff an engineer in.










I added a number to the plate on the smokebox front and a spark arrestor for the stack. I used MS Word's WordArt utility to print the numeral as a thin outline. I pasted the printout to a piece of 0.032" brass and cut the numeral out. If the outline began to get narrow as I cut, I knew it was time to quit cutting in that spot. I bonded it in place with JB Weld. The arrestor is scratch built from materials on hand. While the Summerlands chuffer does quite well at reducing droplets of steam oil going up the stack, the spark arrestor finishes the job. I've had good luck with spark arrestors on my K28 and Climax.



















At the same time I bought my Emma, I also bought three Bachman ore cars, fitted them out with Kadee #789 couplers, painted them and weathered them with Bragdon weathering chalks.


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## Phippsburg Eric (Jan 10, 2008)

She looks great Llyn! The number plate did call out for some decorating didn't it? you did a very tidy job of it too. the addition of the bell, headlight and generator go a long way to bringing the engine to life!


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