# Aristo 8 foot brass sections ART-11005



## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

I'm in the actual figuring out track and have my curves all figured out and now down to the straights. I have a box of 3 footers, but have a couple 9-10' runs and a 15-16' run. I'm gonna have to get some track and was thinking about doing the 8' flex track to save joints and possible power problems in the future plus I can end up cutting it to the exact length as apposed to 'making' it fit. I am running DC for now and may/may not go battery in future and am using Split-Jaw clamps. However, I don't seem to find the flex anywhere. Do they not make it any more? I know I will have to buy the ties and put them on which will be a pain, but it seems to me the fewer joints and clamps, the better in the long run. I have found 5' boxes, which will be the backup plan but would rather do the 8 footers. Suggestions and experience with the flex rails would be appreciated.


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## Hiawatha Gent (May 6, 2011)

I am laying stainless steel. I use the 8' rail for curves. I use the belly method (not original) to get the right curve. You will need to cut the ties because they come straight. I have found that the SS has a natural propensity to curve in one direction. I suspect that it is a result of the extrusion of the rail. I flip the rail from one side to the other to see which way it wants to bend. Going with the bend bias makes the job a lot easier. I like the end result and have had no problems. You will need a cutting tool to keep the ends even.

Dennis McLain


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Can't answer for the eight-foot Aristo flex, but AML makes code 332 brass flex track in six-foot lengths. This is lovely stuff, and considerably cheaper than anything else I could find. I got mine through RLD hobbies (all the usual disclaimers: no affiliation, just satisfied customer, etc.).


One thing: If your long runs are really straight, you may prefer straight track to flex track. It's picky work to lay a dead straight run with flex track. My opinion, only. 


Steve Seitel


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Posted By dawgnabbit on 07 Aug 2011 07:29 PM 
Can't answer for the eight-foot Aristo flex, but AML makes code 332 brass flex track in six-foot lengths.  This is lovely stuff, and considerably cheaper than anything else I could find.  I got mine through RLD hobbies (all the usual disclaimers: no affiliation, just satisfied customer, etc.).

 
One thing:  If your long runs are really straight, you may prefer straight track to flex track.  It's picky work to lay a dead straight run with flex track.  My opinion, only. 

 
Steve Seitel 



I've never really seen 'flex' track, but I assumed it was just rails that are straight but 'could' be bent. Seemed to me that just put on the ties and be done with an 8 foot section. Am I missing something? I did not see it at train world but when I did a search it did come up so now just a matter if in stock.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

I have ART 11005 on my site, and it is in stock.


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## mickey (Jan 28, 2009)

Is it predrilled on the bottom for the screws to hold the ties? Why is it hard to keep straight if you put the ties on? Am I getting into something I don't understand? Advice is welcomed.


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## Hiawatha Gent (May 6, 2011)

It is not pre drilled. You run the 1' sections of ties onto each rail. Sometimes getting the rail through the plastic holders on the ties is frustrating. I don't think you would have a problem keeping it straight. You want to keep the ties and rail flat as you put it on. If the rail twists out of the ties it creates problems. The advantage of the 5' section is the fact that the ties are screwed to the rail.


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## Polaris1 (Jan 22, 2010)

I just laid 340 ft of Aristo 8 ft 332 SS flex track on top of a BearBoard (plastic jugs + powered rock) elevated curved ladder setup. .. The SS rail comes in a 8.2 ft long aluminum pipe. 
The rail has no bottom flange tie screw holes. Set up a 4x8 plywood sheet on horses to slip on track.... Practice makes it easier !! For curves & before you slip the ties on, 
cut every 2nd tie on OUTSIDE rail bend area with a pruning shears... Some layout ruff pre measuring is REQD...... There is 48 ft of Track (minus ties) in a pipe (12 rails) 

On long straights (8 ft+) & with no cut ties, It is is tricky to keep the track 100% straight.... A perfectly straioght 2x4 guide mite help. 

Buying the $30 Train-LI Keep Parallel clamp allows only one of the 4 curved rail tails to be cut via 90 Deg 4" grinder. Since I have 11.5 ft min curves (for Bigger engines), 80% of my 
layout is curved... 20% straight. I ran a used MTH 1/32 Big Boy Saturday with a few cars in both the fore & aft directions nicely on the hilly 215 ft folded dogbone. 

Click on my Photo at left to view 2 photos of 340 ft layout minus all track.... Photos are 1 year old.... 

Dennis M from GBay, WI


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I figure in shipping cost which adds to the per foot cost. 4'6" sectional has always been most cost effective.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Mickey, the big difference between "straight" track and "flex" track is in the plastic tie strips. For straight track, every tie is connected to the next tie on both sides; it can't be curved. For flex track, adjacent ties are connected on only one side, the connection alternating between left and right; that lets the tie strip bend. I hope that's clear. 

Other differences: Most straight track rails are bolted to the tie strips from below. Flex track rails are not bolted, because the rails have to slide through the tie strips when you curve the track. 

One last point: you can make "straight" track into "flex" track by unbolting the rails and clipping out half the tie-to-tie connections between on the tie strips. 

If you do decide to try to lay a straight run with flex track, the suggestion of a straight 2 x 4 is a good one. Or you can run a taut line (mason's line) and set the ties to that. 

Steve Seitel


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

I forgot to mention that the AML flex track comes with the tie strips already on the rails, an advantage if you want to lay straights. It may or may not save work if you pre-curve your rails (recommended). With a dual-rail bender, you're all set. With a single-rail bender (or a belly bender!) you have to pull the tie strips off the rails, bend the rails one at a time and thread the tie strips back on.

Steve Seitel


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