# LGB Track Expansion and Contraction



## Morgar (Mar 1, 2010)

Hi,

I am about to start a new layout around my swimming pool. Being new to LGB track and garden railroading, I am researching expansion and contraction. I live in Winterville, NC and was wondering what other people have done with LGB track and how they have taken into account the expansion and contraction. I do plan to use rail clamps from Split Jaw.


Any suggestions/comments are appreciated!! 



Best regards,
Michael O’Brien


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## Cougar Rock Rail (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Michael, 

I have found that having lots of nice large diameter sweeping curves and not too many long straights gives the track somewhere to move. Better to have many areas that can move than lock it down and force all expansion in one area. I most recently used 3m long LGB flex track, and Hillman clamps and it works extremely well. My track floats in ballast, and therefore needs occasional attention just like real ones do, which I enjoy doing. On days with extreme temperature swings you can see where the track will push out maybe a 1/2" or so on a big curve, and for this reason I think it best to just let the track float and not try to lock it down. Good drainage is also very important, and build up a good roadbase with clean (ie


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have not used LGB track but ...If there are Screws in the bottom of the rail holding the Ties to the rail like Aristo Craft I would removed the screws. That allows the rail to slide if there is any expantion and contractions. I am in the Arizoana desert. I have 20 ft curves. I have not noticed any expantion contraction problems. I have about a 70ft straight section and have not noticed a problem. I bought the Hillman Expantion joints but never installed them. I do think that my track is expanding and contracting but it has not caused ME any problems.


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

Here's an idea of how much your brass track may expand or contract. For this example, I've assumed that the lowest temperature you might experience is -10 degrees F, and the highest temperature is 100 degrees F. And, I've assumed 200 feet of track. You'll see that the total movement is just under 3 inches.

Let me know if these assumptions don't match your layout and environment, and I'll run another case for you.


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

Splitjaw makes a Expanding Rail Bed it easy to install and works great. 

http://www.railclamp.com/displayCategory.jsp?categoryId=36&vId=157420


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## Morgar (Mar 1, 2010)

Hi Stan, 

My track plan consists of a 8ft x 30ft oval with switches leading to the inside. 

Best regards, 
Michael O'Brien


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

Michael, assuming brass track and a lowest-to-highest temperature range of 110 degrees, the 76 feet of track in your oval would expand/contract a little over an inch.

Shouldn't be hard to handle.


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## Morgar (Mar 1, 2010)

Thank you Stan! 

How would you handle this? 

I plan to use rail clamps from Split Jaw, would you leave a tiny gap in the clamps? Or would you purchase the Expanding Rail Bed from Split Jaw? 

Or is there another way?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Hi Michael, 
I use a different brand and metal, but most face expansion as the weather changes. My range is from 20 - 118 degrees. All my track is fastened rail to rail mechanically (aristo SS screws through the joiner) and none is fastened to the roadbed. It floats in gravel. My tri-oval grows and shrinks about 1/2 -3/4" per side. One corner is on a trestle and I can watch it change. 
Mostly add allowances to your clearances and don't worry about it. The only scenario I forsee would be a long straight away between two areas of multiple tracks which might increase resistence to growth. Thus causing a kink, you can always refit one in should the need arise... But hey it's a learning curve.









I didn't bother to remove the screws JJ mentioned, because I don't secure the ties like he does on concrete. The plastic webs follow the rails just fine. 


John


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## stanman (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Morgar on 29 Aug 2010 10:45 AM 

How would you handle this? 



I would follow John's answer above.


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## Jerrys RR (Jun 28, 2010)

The one thing that is different with LGB track is that the joiners secure the rail to the ties on LGB track while other brands tend to use different methods such as screwing the ties to the rails. The result is that LGB track remains locked to the ties as there are no screws to remove or loosen. Longer sections have joiners locked to the ties every foot which makes loosening the rail inside the tie almost impossible short of removing all the joiners (not just the ones replaced with clamps).

Floating the track is a good option and may be the best. In my case my track is laid on outdoor carpeting over composite decking where it can slide if not retained in one way or another. Because of this I use some screws (stainless steel) at random places to keep the track from shifting. The key thing is not to use screws where the track will be locked and unable to expand as it will break the ties. Instead of anchoring the beginning of a curve or the end of a long straight section I anchor (screw) part way into the curves and straights so the track can expand slightly without putting excessive pressure on the ties.

In some cases I don't use clamps and use LGB conductive paste so the track can slide in and out of the joiners slightly but the majority probably use clamps. Also my track is not "in the dirt" so it is not subjected to ground contaminants getting into the joints.

Jerry


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

The expansion and contraction issue is discussed often on this and other large scale sites. When in college, many years ago, one of the structural engineering professors brought up the topic of the Pennsylvania Railroad's study of their new welded rail. If I remember correctly, the designers simply calculated that the entire assembly would move as one, and any expansion would occur on curves. Now, that was forty three years ago. And my memory for things in the distant past is fairly good. Now, what were we talking about?


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