# Installing QSI DCC Decoder in a USA NW-2 Switcher



## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

I am getting ready to start installing a QSI Quantum Magnum Universal DCC Sound Decoder in my USA NW-2 Switcher. This will be my first DCC installation.

I was wondering if there are some suggestions and guidance from anyone in installing this unit. I have heard that it may be a little tricky but this is my first DCC wiring experience and I need to make sure I am doing this correctly.

I will be using track power with DCC over the rails. I have purchased the NCE Power Pro 10 amp system (PH 10-R) with a Meanwell S-320-24 power supply. I have to wire all of this equipment up as well to test the switcher. I will be setting up a test track to play with the entire set up over the winter. (Preparation for the Spring outdoor layout build...)

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Is there a step by step instruction for doing this installation? Does anyone have photos of an installed QSI decoder?

Thanks, Dan


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## Boston Maine Mike (Sep 20, 2010)

That is on my "to do" list also! I have done the PNP's on RS-3's but have held off, hoping for advice on my first USA install...

Why not help us new guys out!

Thanks 
Mike


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

There's a couple ways, I would start with what I call the "quick and dirty"... 

Get some of the matching connectors from allelectronics.com... 

The wires go from the trucks to the circuit board, and the motors and track pickups are already separated. 

The first connectors on this page should be what you want. 

*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai...connectors* 


Have you taken the shell off yet?

If so you should see 2 sets of these connectors coming from each truck.

Let's go from here.

Greg


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## Allen B (Sep 22, 2010)

The All-Electronics part number is CON-240. I ordered ten of them (pairs) and they definitely worth it. This way, if you decide to put it back to the original wiring, there is no muss, no fuss. I took out the smoke circuit as I don't use smoke and this left me room for a bigger speaker facing up. Speaker was too big to put in tank facing down I think you will enjoy having the many controls and available sounds. Do you have the QSI programmer? Depending on how many loco's you are going to convert, it may be a worthwhile investment. If not, see if someone in your area has one. When you start programming the QSI, Greg E. is the acknowledged expert on them and will give you all the help you need. 

Allen B


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks Allen! Well, don't know about expert, learning something new every day! 

The "quick and dirty" approach takes the track pickups and feeds them to the QSI, and then you take the QSI motor output and feed the original USAT board. 

The advantage is that this is really easy and quick. The disadvantage is that you will not get constant lighting. 

Unfortunately, the USAT locos often have leds that change color on direction, that is tough in DCC, but doable. 

A full installation will require some mods to the lighting boards, but not too tough. 

First step is getting it going, right? I like to do these step by step for people new to installations. 

Regards, Greg


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Greg - Thanks for the step by step walk-thru. 

I took the cover off and traced the wires you were talking about.

I have ordered the JST connectors so I guess I will wait until they arrive. I would hope they are here by the weekend. We will see....

I also need to order a speaker since there was not one inside the engine. Any suggestions on speakers?

Is there anything else that I need to be ordering to make the conversion? Is there anything that I can be doing while waiting for the connectors to arrive? 

In the mean time, I will be wiring up the NCE Power Pro 10-R with the power supply.

I really appreciate your assistance.

Dan


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm guessing you also have the QSI quantum board so you can do the wiring as mentioned. I have done several of the installs like this and I do not mind the lights not coming on instantly but they will light as you increase the voltage. Later RJD


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Concerning the lights... I read in my doco from QSI that you can use the AUX LIGHTS connectors on the board for constant 5v lighting. Has anyone wired using this connection? Just wondering... Dan


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I don't remember where that connection is... I do not remember seeing it on documentation... maybe new docs? I'll go look... 

Hang in there wiring until you get the connectors. On the speaker, get the largest you can fit, and look at the speakers from Electric Steam modelworks http://www.rctrains.com/ 

Jonathan is a great help. 

Greg


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Greg - Well the wires and speaker arrived for the installation. Let me know where I am to begin. Let me know if you would rather have me emial you directly or to use the forum. I think others may learn from my inexperience so it may be good if we share... 

I do agree - I want to get the loco working before I take on the lighting mod. I don't have an issue with making the mods as long as you can guide me through this. 

I think you mentioned the quick and dirty was to connect the track pickups to the board and then the board to the motors. 

Questions... First - there are 4 wires from each motor. Red, Black, Green Yellow. It looks like the Red and Black are the power. Is this correct? Which is positive/negative? and what are the G/Y wires? I am a little confused. 

Where do I start? I can send you a photo if needed. I can't seem to post a photo. 

Thanks again for your help.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

When I'm off work tonight, I'll open mine up and take some pix and confirm. I believe red and black are track pickups and the other 2 are motor. 

The best thing to do is break out the ohmmeter and disconnect the connectors and check for sure which leads are track pickups by touching the connector pin and then to each wheel. 

The first thing to do is get all the right hand track pickups together, and and all the left hand ones. 

You can start that and then we can verify. 

Although doing this on the site will take longer, it surely will be helpful to others, so I'm game if you are! 

send me a photo by email and I'll use your photos and install to "beef up" my NW pages on my site, how's that? 

Greg


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Greg - thanks for taking the time to walk me through this. I sent a few photos of the wiring to your email. I repeat my findings that I listed in the email here for everyone to see. 

This is what I have found... 

I used the Ohm meter by touching the wire harness (con-240) and touching the wheels/pickups with the tester leads. 

Facing forward on the engine 
Right Back-Black ~00.0, Red ~41.2 
Right Front-Red ~00.1, Black ~41.1 
Left Back-Red ~00.1, Black ~41.3 
Left Front-Black ~00.1, Red ~41.1 

It looks like the right-back-black and the right-front-red are a pair. The opposite on the left. Am I reading this correctly? 

I also noticed that there are 2nd sets of red/black pairs that go to the motors. These are the wires that are connected in the con-240 harness that I disconnected and tested. A set of wires on the front and and a set on the back go directly to a circuit boards. The jumpers out of the circuit boards connect to the con-240s. I separated these sets of con-240's to do the test. I tested the wires that were coming directly from the trucks. 

I tested the the green and the yellow leads from the trucks. They do not cross with the red/black. I am assuming the yellow/green are the actual motor leads with the red/black are the pickup leads. How do we tell which is positive or negative? - or does it matter?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I sent an email, have a read and see if you want to follow it and then post it or part of it if you want. 

I added the directions and some pictures to my site 


*http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mai...ainmenu-37* 


Regards, Greg


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Just wanted to let everyone know that I was able to get the NW-2 up wired for DCC and ran the loco for the first time this evening. It is awesome. The sound and control from a wireless hand-held are unbelievable. I now need to play with it so that I can learn how to program it effectively. I know that I am limited because of setting up with Greg's quick and easy method but it does work for me to start the DCC learning. I already want to purchase the next decoder and wire up the next loco. 

I learned that the quick and easy method was to intercept the incoming power from the trucks, isolate the power sides (left/right), wire the decoder input from the intercepted power and then feed the normal loco wiring(board) through the motor output on the decoder the installation became easy. The downside is that there is not DCC light control but the lights do operate the same directional control as before the installation. 

Thanks Greg for your assistance. Your knowledge and website were invaluable. I will be sending the photos of the completed wiring to you to share on your website. 

Dan


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The good news is that we can do the lights later as you "learn" in phase II ! (The trickiest things are bicolor leds, headlight and other lights are not too tough!) 

Play with it a while and get used to the QSI, it is fun! 

Regards, Greg


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## dperrott (Aug 12, 2010)

Now that I have had a little time to play, I would like to know how I should go about changing over to constant lighting in the NW2. The quick and easy method works great but now I would like to attach the lighting to the board. Does anyone have the instructions as to how I can change it over? 

I am assuming that I would have to disconnect the current lighting from the boards and then attach them to the QSI board. Can I just attach them directly? Can that lighting take the voltage from the board? 

Dan


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, I need to look and see if they are LEDs or bulbs. If they are not LEDs, my advice is to change them, it's a bit more complicated trying to drop voltage for incandescent bulbs. 

First step is to identify the lights that will always be on, and set them up. Won't have a chance to look inside mine until the weekend. 

How about some closeups of the lights? 

Greg


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