# CNJ boxcab 1000



## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

My latest project. CNJ boxcab using Aristocraft center cab switcher trucks.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

You're a very patient person for all those rivets. Can't wait to see it painted. 

Later, 

K


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## david bunn (Jan 4, 2008)

Now that I like!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

You didn't count them, did you?


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

That's a great looking model. I'm in the process of building the same diesel in 1 1/2" scale. It appears that you have the right number of rivets. Another one of my projects is building a prototype rivet making machine that will emboss rivet heads on thin brass or aluminum strips. The strips are to be 1/4" wide and cemented to the panels of the engine. Rivet heads are to be 1/16" dia x 3/8" center to center. I'm building the power trucks from aluminum stock. Each truck will be powered by two 12v electric motors for a total of 4 motors. The motors are the same as used in cordless drills. Once I have the rivet embossing machine built and if it works like I hope it will, I want to scale it down for use on 1:22.5 scale models


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Rivets 
Adding the rivets was not as bad as it may seem. 
It took awhile on another project for me to work out a method. 
When I approached the boxcab I had a method. Here it is. 

1 make a tool to handle the rivets. I ground a pair of tweezers till the points were very narrow. You want to hold as little of the rivet stem as possible. 

2 tape a business card to your workbench and added a tape loop to it. You don’t want them moving around and you do not want to try and cut the rivets off the sprues against a hard surface, they will shoot off if you do. 

3 Add; good light, a good radio station and a comfortable chair. 

4 push the rivet sprue to the tape loop and cut the rivets off the sprue. I cut off only as many as I felt like dealing with at the time (6 – 20). I use a #18 chisel blade. It will cut about 5 or 6 at one time. The tape loop holds the rivets enough to keep them in place. 

5 brushed liquid cement onto 4 – 6 rivet holes at a time and place the rivets. Once in place a second brush with the cement. Repeat. 

6 after the cement has dried I used the #18 to slice off any of the rivet tails on the inside of the model. I don’t want to poke any back through due to handling. 

7 plan on doing small sections at one time. Take your time. You will be surprised at how fast you will get it done. 

On the boxcab I lost no rivets and used about 30 sprues X 20 rivets or about 600 rivets. Took about 2 hours total. The result was well worth the effort. 

alan


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks really nice. What is your source for the rivets you described. Oh and thanks for the tips on installation.


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Robert 
I use Grant line #156. 

alan


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks for the quick response Alan.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice model of a unique loco! Have you seen the *HO scale portable layout of the CNJ Bronx Terminal*? It's being built by Tim Warris, one of the guys behind Fast Tracks. The Bronx Terminal was where 1000 spent most of her time. Any plans to do similar trackwork in large scale? That would be _really_ different - not to mention very cool!


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## Ted_Roy (Jan 2, 2008)

Very Nice! Love the riveting details. Great model. 

Ted.


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Dwight 
I would love too. I have a set of drawing that I have been looking at and am tempted. 

The big draw back is that I could not show my other engines or passenger cars on it, in that they ran in New Jersey and never came near the terminal. That would be a big layout with only 1 or 2 engines and a lot of boxcars . 

I currently have a P-47 blue comet pacific and a A-28 p5 camelback Atlantic which would not fit in the Bronx terminal. 

The layout I am planning will include the Lakewood station/yard and the Lakehurst shops to winslow juction around 1920-1930 era. Need to be able to run my full Blue Comet consist. This would also allow me to include Reading and PRR equipment. 

Well that’s the plan for now. We will see. 

alan


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

There were many variations of the AGEIR oil electric. The first production diesel-electric was built on order # S1484.The "S" designator indicated the mechanicals were built at ALCO'S Schenectady, New York plant and sent to GE'S Erie, Pa works where the Ingersol-Rand engine was installed. The engine was a 60 ton, 300hp unit assigned the GE builders #9681 while it was used as a demonstrator model. The original #1000 was delivered to the Chicago and North Western and somehow ended up with the C of NJ. These engines in various configurations were used in switching and main-line service with a change in gear ratios. All in all, this was a very interesting engine and a great engine to model. I just hope mine turns out as good as yours looks.


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

WOW!!! Amazing job. My grandfather worked for GE in Schnectady and told me all about these locomotives. Can't wait to see it painted.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Love it! Looking forward to any progress pictures.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes nice job. This is an interesting loco and I had them In HO scale. As mentioned above the 1000 originally was a C&NW unit. The unit had a tractive effort of 54000 lbs. C&NW also had a 600 hp version numbered 1200 and also an Ingersoll-Rand loco it was repainted to the green and yellow paint scheme of the C&NW. It had a slightly different cab style. Later RJD


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Getting there. 

added the 3rd radiator to the roof. air brushed the roof flat and the body semi gloss black. 

Pardon the error. Put the roof on backwards when I took the pic. 

Couple of more details to add such as a lift bar , polling pockets and flag sockets.

Am now searching for the lettering and that guy in the window. prefer dry transfers. 

alan


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

For those who might be interested and not know, this engine is preserved at the B&O Museum in Baltimore. Somewhere in my photos, I have pictures that I took of it spread out on the floor of the CNJ Elizabethport shops during it's last overhaul around 1956. Wouldn't be surprised if old #1000 would just fire right up after a bit of preparation. 

Larry


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks great! even to a steamaholic. 

Harvey C.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Defiantlylooks better with a coat of paint. Now I just got to get one. Later RJD


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## Mr Ron (Sep 23, 2009)

Great looking job! Don't forget the steps under the doors. On the model I'm building, I'm using coil springs instead of leaf springs. Somewnere along the line, my boxcab got fitted with Baldwin-Westinghouse trucks instead of the more protypical GE/ALCO trucks. Somehow, electric box cabs are more convincing as models than are electric powered steam locomotives.


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## Chris France (Jan 3, 2008)

Larry, 
I work at the B&O in rail operations and we've always wondered what it would take to get her going again. The prime mover would probably not pose any trouble at all (until we needed to find parts), but when we moved it after the roof collapse it didn't roll too freely. We think there may be traction motor issues. Either way, nothing is impossible.


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## Dennis Paulson (Jan 2, 2008)

Great modeling , really nice , its just a shame that Hartland or Aristo hasn't made this little locomotive that could be used on anybodys layouts curves .


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## bdp3wsy (Mar 14, 2008)

The CNJ did some strange things that other roads would not try. Heres 1001 on a car-float on its way to the Bronx Terminal to join 1001. Jake


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

onto 4 – 6 rivet holes at a time and place the rivets
Alan, 

I'm still intrigued. How did you make all the rivet holes in such a straight line ?


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Hi guys 

Mr Ron â€" I did not forget about the steps they are going to be brass. Been very busy lately will get to them this weekend I hope. 

Pete the boxcab was cut on a laser from a cad drawing that I did. Without the laser I would not have attempted to add that many rivets. 

Alan


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## Dennis Paulson (Jan 2, 2008)

A beautiful small diesel you have made .................of course being a electric operation here , the electric boxcabs came to mind seeing the body .....................

maybe 











or


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

the boxcab was cut on a laser from a cad drawing that I did. Without the laser I would not have attempted to add that many rivets 
Alan, 

We're in the same boat with EBT's M-1 Railcar. It has lots and lots of rivets: 
*http://www.railfanusa.com/pics/mine/ebt2/081012_2.jpg*


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Virgal, That is a _marvelous_ model! I am especially impressed with your radiator assemblies. Can you tell us a little more about how you made them?

I have a freelance narrow-gauge boxcab in construction. My radiators (below) are much cruder than yours. How'd you do it?










I'll watch this thread with great interest. Keep up the good stuff. 


Dawg


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Gee Dawg I don't know your radiators look awfully nice also. How did you construct the mounts (legs)? 

Robert


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## virgal (Sep 25, 2009)

Gee dawg i do know your work is top notch. yes tell us about the mounts. 

alan


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Alan, 

My laser guy wants to know how big to make the holes for the Grandt Line rivets. (I was unable to find any specs on the 'net.) What size holes did you make?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Pete, have you checked out Scale Hardware for really good small rivets and stuff? 

Larry


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

This is Virgal's thread.*http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dawgnabbit/boxcab/brackets.pdf*

I don't want to hijack it so I put some pix of how I made the feet *here*.


Dawg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

have you checked out Scale Hardware for really good small rivets and stuff? 
Larry, 

Yes, I'm aware of them - I wasn't aware that the Grandt Line O scale rivets were 1.27" in 1:20.3 scale, or that they are $2.55 per 100 ! 

The shank of the rivets is 0.024" for the Scale Hardware metal ones, and 0.033" for the Grandt Line. Either will be a problem - we're experimenting with laser-cut hole sizes!


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