# Reflectors for scratch-built headlights?



## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All

Can somebody suggest a way to make (or scrounge up) reflectors for some scratch-built headlights? I need to make a number of headlights, so cheap is good.


I need something ~1/2" to 5/8" in diameter, The mini-maglite reflectors are too large, and the micro-maglights only come as part of a complete head assembly.


How do you experts handle this? Are there other good choices? If so, please point me in the right direction. 


Thanks for any help you can offer.

Dawg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

I'd make my own. 
I have a steel Dapping set, but you can make yours from wood. In the end grain carve out the shape, Half of a ball. On a dowel shape the end to fit the hole in your block, another half ball shape. Cut a circle of metal to fit the widest part of depression , place dowel in position and whack with a mallet. You don't need a full half dome a fraction of it will sufice.... May want to whack more than once, turn dowel between strikes. 
Polish and install. 
Or you can buy inexpensive dapping sets from discount jewelry supply houses, depends on you. Google for that. 

John


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks, John. So that's[/i] how it's done; I didn't know.


I'll give that a try. Should be fun.

Dawg


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You're welcome, be sure to use end grain for your depression, it will give a smoother form and will avoid wrinkles from softer wood grain. 

John


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## pdk (Jan 2, 2008)

Little decorative "brass" Christmas bells.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

SOme guys have found a source of small flashlight reflectors. Others have used shiny measuring spoons.


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Steve

Here's another option that you might consider. Check out the video in the second reply. Also check out the plating process that Richard (rkapuaala) suggests in the last reply.

Headlight Reflectors (Metal Spinning)[/b]


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## maculsay (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's what I've done a few times. At your handy housewares aisle/store find a cheap set of steel measuring spoons. The 1TSP and 1 TBL sizes works pretty well with only a little filing, IIRC.


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## Old Iron (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like you can order individual reflectors for the micro size here: http://www.flashlightking.com/ 

Geoff


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

Dawg, 

For more info check out my* Headlight reflector page* .....


















head light turned on to show brightness and head light turned off to show the reflector from Brinkmann Lighting Products, mini-flashlight, it is made of polycarbonate that will allow it to stand higher temperature bulbs.


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All

Many ingenious ideas for fabricating reflectors here. I knew you guys would have lots of suggestions.

Goeff - I wasn't aware there was a two AAA micro-maglite, thanks for the tip! The reflector is just right.


Dean - I've emailed Tim Duff at Brinkman about 2 AAA reflectors. We'll see what he says. 


Again, thanks to all for the help.

Dawg


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi, All

Just to close the loop on this one...

Dean - FYI, I tried the the email address for Tim Duff posted on your website, but it's a dead end now. Maybe he's left the company. Thanks anyway.


Geoff - I place an order with Flashlight King. I appreciate the link.


Mission accomplished, I guess. Thank you all for the help. 


Dawg


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## altterrain (Jan 2, 2008)

Cut small circles out of thin aluminum (soda cans will work) and make a little cone out of it. A dab of metal epoxy holds it together. 
Make for good smoke stack tops too - 










-Brian


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## RimfireJim (Mar 25, 2009)

Posted By Old Iron on 28 Jan 2010 02:51 PM 
Looks like you can order individual reflectors for the micro size here: http://www.flashlightking.com/ 

Geoff 
Man, for only a buck a pop from them, it's not worth trying to make your own unless you are a total die-hard DIYer. (Shipping is $3.95 for small orders - not bad.) I see that the matching lens is $.50 - that probably works well for a headlight, too, no?


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## hcampbell (Jan 2, 2008)

I used a stainless steel measuring spoon from the dollar store. 

Harvey C.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Ooops, just reread your original post... I ain't no expert... 

I'm glad you found your solution. 
In the older loco headlamps the reflectors were sometimes just domed plates behind the flame, not bulb holders. 

John


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

BTW, I just saw that Harbor Freight has a doming set (essentially large round punch and die set for making hemispheres out of metal) on sale for around $30. Sizes range from 4.5mm to 38mm. Suitable for scales from O (possibly S and even some large HO headlights) to 1" scale! 

Later, 

K


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

I was thinking of changing my LGB 5050 street lights from incandescent lamps to LEDs. I first thought of placing a tiny mirror inside the top to reflect the light back down. Now I am wondering if those large sequins would work.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Steve......

Here's another solution.... LED Reflector 

Go to the bottom of the page...


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Thank you for the link, Stan. I've bookmarked the site.

Dawg


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## euhero987 (Nov 8, 2011)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); hello guys. I'm sorry for bumping a really old thread but I have to clear some question in my mind and making a new thread with this simple question would just take some more database on the forum.
I am new to this and quite a noob. I just want to ask that is LED light reliable on replacing my headlights?


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Not for a lamp lens, but to light up interiors in some engines I used reflective tape in the ceilings. Tape is not seen esp for those of us that run on the ground. Works with leds and regular bulbs. 

Also, in some small cars I used the strip mirrors I found in an old computer document scanner.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I just high dispersion angle LEDs, with 120 degree angle... then I don't need any reflection when using in a cab or passenger car. The small square surface mount ones are best. 


This:









VS the stock bulbs:










In headlights, of course you use the "traditional" "bulb type" LEDs.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The "trick" with using LEDs to replace incandescent bulbs is to scuff up the outside of the LED so it refracts the light within the LED to be more omnidirectional. I use a light sandpaper (200 grit or so). Just know that you're also going to need an appropriate resistor in series with the LED in terms of being a "direct" replacement. (Typically, a 1000 or 2000 ohm resistor works well for the voltages we run.) I'm just finishing up a series in _Garden Railways_ about LED lighting that covers some of this. It's in the the "Garden Railways Basics" column. 

Later, 

K


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've tried that, sanding the outside... it helps a bit... better is flatten the end of the led.... better is put a small depression in the end of the LED. 

In fact if you check, most of the new "Christmas LEDs" have this done. 

But all of those are a far cry from an LED designed from the "get go" for 120 degree dispersion. 

Investigate yourself, you will be convinced. 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The wide-disbursement surface-mount LEDs definitely work well for passenger car roofs and other general illumination scenarios like building interiors, etc. where you want to light the interior but not necessarily see the light source that's illuminating it. Where they fall short is when you want to use them in an application where you physically see the bulb, and need the LED to look the part of a light bulb. Locomotive headlights would be a prime example, or marker lamps where you need the light to shine specifically out of the side of the LED. That's where scuffing the outside of a "traditional" LED has distinct advantages. You get very "bulblike" light disbursement, the prototypical look of a lightbulb, and all the benefits of an LED. 

Greg, is there a particular brand or style of LED christmas lights you're seeing that are using flat or concave-ended LEDs? The ones I've encountered use a "traditional" shaped LED, and then use a separate plastic cap over that to shape the light. I'd love to play with other styles if they're available. They'd be shoe-ins for signals, class, and marker lamps. 

Now's certainly the time to investigate the various LED Christmas lights. Keep your eyes open for the packs of replacement LED bulbs, too. The cost per LED is typically still a bit more than buying a complete strand, but you don't get all that wasted wire. Also look for stores that offer rebates for trading in the old incandescent strands of lights. 

Later, 

K


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## Madman (Jan 5, 2008)

One other option would be to use sequins from A C Moore or Michaels. They are available in different sizes. Some are quite large.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No particular brand, just open them up and look at the LED... Nick sent me a few last year that are like this... 

Greg


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

Cool. I'll keep my eyes open for them. 

Later, 

K


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I just got a card with some plastic Christmas bells on it, silver ones should work fine for reflectors.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

What about foil for the inside reflector...it can be shaped. And is thick enough to hold its shape and is way cheaper! EVERY kitchen has it!

Bubba


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The problem is that with the beam coming out of the end of the LED, there's nothing to reflect back forward. 

An incandescent bulb emits in all directions, but unless you get the type of LEDs I have been talking about, a reflector basically does nothing. 

Try it yourself with a "standard" LED, you will convince yourself of what I am telling you. It's an easy experiment. 

Regards, Greg


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## blueregal (Jan 3, 2008)

Just buy the square topped led's with the dimple in the middle!! Menard's sells em out here. box of 35 for either $4.00 or $6 i'ts one or the other. Regal


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## Bob Pero (Jan 13, 2008)

http://www.homestead.com/Largescaletrainshops/ 
For reflectors I used Hubble Flashlight modules # 2202-2A-LM which are available 
at Home Depot for around $3.98 each.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

The problem is that with the beam coming out of the end of the LED, there's nothing to reflect back forward. 
That's where the scuffing comes into play. Take a look at my column I think two issues back in GR, where I show a photo comparing the light patterns of an "untouched" LED, one that's been scuffed, and an incandescent bulb. The latter two are very similar, and the effect when put in a headlight or class lamp is very realistic. 










All three lights are LEDs that have been scuffed. When I put an un-modified LED in the class lamps, the light was barely noticeable since it went mostly out the top. Once I scuffed them, I actually had to tone them down a bit with a brown Sharpie marker to cut the light down a touch so not to be as bright as the headlight. 

Later, 

K


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