# track over a staircase step



## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Hello All
I have a very tough situation that I have built mself into and need some advice. I put in a WYE and the dead end leg will traverse a 4' lift out section, (that is trouble in itself) then immediantly cross a short 2 step wooden staircase. The track will continue on 8 feet after that and be infront of the edge of a deck that is about 20 inches off the ground. 
The trouble is how can I cross the step? When the lift out section is up visitors will need to use these steps to get to the rest of the RR so it needs to be heavy duty.

Idea 1 cut grooves in the step at the proper gauge which would accept 2 rails then tack them down. 

Idea 2 leave the track intact and cut out a wide channel in the step board to accept the ties and rail then attach a piece of wood or plastic to the top of the ties inbetween the rails sort of like the crossing idea in the current issue of Garden Railways . I like this idea since the code 332 track is already pretty tough as it is. Trouble is to totally recess the track I need to cut a channel 5/8 of an inch deep. I had planned on using the 5 quarter deckingthat is already on the step but that only leaves 3/8 under the track which seems like a weak spot even thoug it is supported underneath.
I bumped up my plans to a 2 by which measure 1 1/2 so that will be a bit stronger once the channel is cut out of it. 
Maybe I should build this one crossing step out of different pieces of wood instead of one and screw and glue it all together? Would that be stronger? 

What would you guys do to cross this step? 

Todd


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Since it is through an existing stair, I would go with the channel for the track. This would make the crossing blend in while not having to worry about getting and keeping the correct gauge on the rails. Then I would do one of two things. 

1) Take some lengths of 1X2 the same length as the width as the step and screw them across the step underneath. Thus bracing the step. Cut the ends at 45 degrees and they should just about disappear. 

2) Take a piece the same as the step and screw it underneath for the length of the step. Thus the step would be two pieces deep. Once again you can cut it an inch narrower than the step and at 45 degrees to make it disappear. 

Hope this helps.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

just screw it... 


...upon the stair. then screw the needed wood upon stair and track for an even surface. 
benefits: 
you don't have to mess with the stair itself. 
if someday in the future your trackplan changes, the stair is unharmed. 
it is less work.


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

I like Rich's idea, (Hi Rich, long time no see-new railway under construction 8 mi west of the one you may remember) 
but would add GLUE and screw to get maximum strength from the lamination. 
Depending on tools you have available it might be easiest to just run the track across the existing step and rip some 1x lumber (3/4" thick) to fill the rest of the space. It would require your guests to "watch their step" a bit as that step would be slightly higher but the track would be protected and you wouldn't have to cut the groove in the existing step or be concerned with adapting to the framing underneath. 
Tom (full of ideas-and other stuff too)


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## Tom Bowdler (Jan 3, 2008)

Ah hah, 
Kormsen posted while I was typing. Great minds think alike! 8>) 
Tom


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I would get some 1/2 x 1/8 flat steel. Then take a router and cut a groove for the steel strip to sit in. Of course it would be spaced the proper distance apart like the track.

That way you do not have to worry about the expansion or contractions of the wood due to moisture. Also your are not using up valuable track.


Another approach would be to Take 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron. and some 1/2 x 1/8 flat steel to use as ties and make a sections of track.

Using a router route out a groove to place the track in. Again you will not be using valuable track and it will be stronger and stand up to being stepped on.

You can fill in the space between the rails with some plastic tread of some kind if you wish 

Stan C did this on his drive way in front of the garage door and drove his car over it.

JJ


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

then screw the needed wood upon stair and track for an even surface. 
I'm with Tom and Kormsen. Put the track on top and then laminate some thin wood up to the rails and between the rails. 

Add the same layers of thin wood to the other step and no one will notice the difference.


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## cape cod Todd (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks guys you have really given me some good ideas here that I hadn't thought of. I'm heading back out to have another look and do some more tinkering and planning. 
Todd


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## paintjockey (Jan 3, 2008)

I have a friend who had a similar problem. He did what Kormsen and Tom suggested. The problem he ran into was the weight of people walking on the laminated wood crushed and broke the ties underneath. His solution was to take the ties off and fasten the rail directly to the step then laminate wood over top of the step. After that it has been trouble free for 4 years. 

Terry


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Lots of great ideas. Thanks for posting this question, Todd.

I'm probably going to need to do something similar for a walk-over crossing that I will also need to drive the ol' John Deere over. So I particularly like John's 1st approach; sounds very rubust, and takes the plastic ties out of the equation. 

And in case you have powered rail (like I do), I suppose one could use brass or SS bar stock (vs. carbon steel). Either way, countersunk brass or SS flathead screws would be nice, for a flush surface. 

In my case though, the strips would need to be secured to concrete (but then, the problem would be differential expansion...), or a buried PT 4x4 or 6x6 (but ditto). I wonder if Marty has drive-over crossings? He must have, what with 11 miles or so







of track...

CJ


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## SteveC (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By CliffyJ on 13 Aug 2011 01:21 PM 
{snip...}[/i] In my case though, the strips would need to be secured to concrete (but then, the problem would be differential expansion...), or a buried PT 4x4 or 6x6 (but ditto). I wonder if Marty has drive-over crossings? He must have, what with 11 miles or so







of track...
CJ
Cliff

While the following may not be a direct solution for your problem, but it may provide a jumping off point to develop one.

Stan Cedarleaf's - "Tracks Across The Driveway"[/b]


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks Steve, great article!


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