# Need suggestion on laying track on the ground/roadbed



## rhelmod (Oct 8, 2013)

Guys: I am planning on building an outdoor layout using Code 250 Narrow gauge track with plastic ties. It will be for live steam 1:20.3 so no need for electrical connections. The layout will start on a flat area that has grass on the ground and then start going down hill into a pine forrest traversing the hill with Ess curves to ease the grade and come out of the woods down into the yard. I was planning on doing a reversing loop to reversing loop with single mainline and two passing sidings. My question is, what is the best way to lay track on the ground? What roadbed preparations need to be made. I am worried about washouts during heavy rain storms but I plan to provide good drainage for the track. The pine forest would be mostly dry since it has a good canopy of trees. I saw where you can dig a 2 to 3 inch deep trench and level it somewhat then add crushed stone for ballast and lay the track on that with tamping. I plan to use either Llagas creek code 250 with aluminum rail or AML Code 250 with brass rail flex track. I also thought about pinning the track with long galvinized nails into the soil to keep it somewhat stable. What are your suggestions?
Bob


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

The best road bed so far is cement. There are several threads on this forum which talk about cement road bed. Google My Large Scale Cement Road Bed and you should find them.


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## SLemcke (Jun 3, 2008)

I dig about a 6 inch wide by 4 inch deep trench and fill with gravel screenings. I let the track float for the most part or screw it down to partialy buried treated lumber if I need to keep it in place for some reason. I have a raised bed layout about a foot off the normal groung level. No problems with animals or washouts. It does settle over time but I just add more screenings. 
I have a friend who uses concrete roadbed, he is very satisfied with the results. Either one will work great or a combination of both. Just put some track down and test what works in your area. 
Steve


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

I have neglected my layout for over a year. I went out and cleared the weeds and stuff off the tracks. A lot of the ballast had washed away but the track was intact. I have a few sections with sun rotted ties. But basically I did not have to touche the track. I have a canyon that tuns into a river when it rains. Water is about 3 to 5 inches deep. Does not bother that track. 


I have Concrete Road Bed. It is always level side to side like when I put in down years ago. I am in AZ so the sun beads down on my R R .

A little extra work but worth it. 


JJ


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think one important thing to consider, especially if you have a forest around, which implies water... is frost heave. 

JJ does not have any water he's in the desert. Other people have no problems, some do. 

If you have a lot of frost heave, the heavy sections of concrete will be a lot of work or impossible to get back down and level. 

I'd make up a few sections of concrete and see how they fare through the winter. 

gravel roadbed is easy to convert to concrete, and easy to change. Concrete is not easy to change. 

Regards, Greg


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I saw where you can dig a 2 to 3 inch deep trench and level it somewhat then add crushed stone for ballast and lay the track on that with tamping 
My track was as you describe - but with lots of tamping before you lay the track on top and ballast it. The big hardware stores sell a 'trenching' shovel that is 4" wide and perfect for making the trench (Duh!) Crushed rock, #9 fines, or whatever it is called in your area makes a solid base and looks good. 

Don't tie the track down with nails. The ballast will hold it in place but let it move with the climate/seasons. 

Whatever you do, be prepared for an annual maintenance session (in the spring here in the Mid Atlantic) where you go around and add new ballast (where does it go we keep asking?) 

And don't add portland cement to your ballast if you live in a rainy area. The track on the right (below) has lumps of immovable ballast/cement that looked really ugly! The rest of this track is Llagas code 250 painted brown primer with llagas black ties, laid over crushed rock.











The best road bed so far is cement 
I think it depends where you live. Cement is a bit unforgiving and can be subject to frost heaves. Elevated spline roadbed is also a good option.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Bob, 
Welcome to a fun hobby and a great forum, 

I'm on my 2nd layout in 6 years. My first layout was my learner. I used the Free Floating method of track in/on ballast. Looks good and very easy to change the track plan. Just scoop up the rock and winnow it for reuse. 
This second layout is half elevated on cedar planks, I'm just too old to play in that much dirt!. My planks are wide and I let the track float on that. Each track section is tightly secured to the next and no gaps. The whole unit grows and shrinks as a body with curves releasing longitudinal growth, sideways. 

I agree that concrete will make a very stable platform, but I'm also glad I didn't have to bust any up when my mind changed.... I also like free floating and it has worked well for me. 

Do you own the property? Landlords can be fussy. 

Happy Rails 

John


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