# My New Design Track Cleaner



## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

And there you have it. A one-off track cleaner made from an AristoCraft 3-axle truck, like no other for just a few dollars in a motor, piece of tube, a connector, and some abrasive wheels. And replacement wheels are ~$0.50 each as opposed to the LGB cleaning wheels that go for ~$25-$30/pr.



http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/medium/DSC_0003_2_3.JPG





http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/medium/DSC_0004_2_4.JPG


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## SparkyJoe (Oct 14, 2012)

toddalin said:


> And there you have it. A one-off track cleaner made from an AristoCraft 3-axle truck, like no other for just a few dollars in a motor, piece of tube, a connector, and some abrasive wheels. And replacement wheels are ~$0.50 each as opposed to the LGB cleaning wheels that go for ~$25-$30/pr.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When you get it in operation, shoot a video and post it. Curious to see it in action.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I was trying it out and put too much weight on it on one side (12 volt gel pack), and the CA let go on that axle. I reglued it using a healthier dose of CA and won't put nearly as much weight on it. It only takes a bit of weight and I shimmed the motor a bit closer to the track, so even less now.

I feared this may happen all along, but maybe I can find stronger CA if it fails again. From testing, it only take a moment to make the rail shine.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm surprised you can do it without a floating mount on the motor. I guess you will need to "tune" the springs instead?

Are the abrasive wheels something like Cratex?

Greg


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

It is "tuned" by the amount of weight added and only takes a bit. The 3-axle trucks are sprung on the two outter axles, but not the center. I have some stick-on lead weights that should do it.

Alternatively, I am thinking of putting it under an unused Aristocraft track cleaning caboose and that may be all the weight it needs. I can also change to heavier springs.

Yes, Cratex, 1" diameter x 1/8" hole (gets enlarged) x 3/16" thick, coarse grade.

I got of box of 100 for a bit over $50 on the bay on a "make offer"


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

toddalin, I like your thought process in this project, unique for sure.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

My track cleaner works great except that the hollow axles that are CA'ed to the motor shafts can let go and slip under load.



In your experience, who makes the strongest CA that can hold a 2MM ID stainless steel tube to a 2MM OD motor shaft? The fit is fine with no excess slop when it spins.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I did a pass, hand pushing, back and forth and back and forth and this is the result. I didn't have the truck properly weighted and you can see where the one axle is slipping on the shaft. But look at the original condition of the track and the bad vs the good side.











http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/medium/DSC_000817.JPG


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

How about a 2 part epoxy? JB Quik? Depending on the plastic involved.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> How about a 2 part epoxy? JB Quik? Depending on the plastic involved.


No plastic involved. It is a 2MM OD motor shaft going into a 2MM ID stainless steel tube. Becuase the tolerances are so tight, something thick like JB Weld would just get pushed out as the axle slides onto the motor shaft. The lenght of the shafts are <1/4" so there is not a lot of area to bond too.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

what if you rough up the ID SS tube, doesn't take much to adhere.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I'll first try different adhesives. Loctite makes a stronger adhesive than the one I used.

Thanks


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Been using Loctite for many years, keeps my old Harley from vibrating apart. Red requires heat to undo nuts secured with it.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

deleted, you gave a response for JB Weld

I don't like this new format, can't delete a post


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I tried the Titebond Ultra. I put it on the axle that was slipping. It is thinner than the other Titebond gel I had used so better saturated the pieces. It is also stronger. 

I put the cleaner on some rail that was really caked with corrosion and the axle with the Ultra held, but the other axle (with the original gel) let go this time. I redid it with the Ultra and will let it set up a day.

Again, as the axle pushes on, the CA pushes forward and wants to bind the shaft to the casing. This time I put a bit of grease at the opening to keep any CA from entering the bearing. I still had to grasp both axles and continue to rotate them for a while, and intermittently, to keep the shaft from sticking to the case as the CA set up.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The track cleaner is complete, though I may add a flashing diode at some point in the future to indicate when the cleaning motor is running.

It's a simple matter to hold down the battery pack with a couple rubber bands. This also allows for a quick change. I got two 11.1V, 2,200 maH, Li-ion packs and a charger for just $30 shipped, but had to change out the plugs to what I had.










From the bottom you can see the workings. The six 1/4 oz lead weights along the front edge counterbalance the battery pack that sits behind center. This is also just the amount of weight necessary to make the abrasive wheels contact the railhead.










A close-up of the switching arrangement. The center-off, DPDT switch selects the battery pack or wheel pick-ups. Note the bridge rectifier connected to the track pick-ups. This ensures that the motor spins the same way as it does on the battery regardless of track polarity. The SPDT switch selects whether the motor spins when the unit is being push or pulled. For example, like the LGB track cleaner, it can be set to spin the cleaning motor when it is being pushed, but the motor will stop when it is towed the other direction. This also allows for the unit to also be towed so that it runs when pulled behind a battery-powered engine, but stops when pushed in reverse.



In theory, the switch/motor direction/combination create an "auto-off" feature. The motor spins so as to pull the car away from the engine regardless of if it is pushed or towed. If the push/tow engine should stop, and the cleaner motor continues to run (as it will with batteries or under track power if the push/pull engine gets stuck), this opens the coupler switch shutting off the motor.










The old springs had lots of wear and not a lot of tension so bottomed out. Luckily, I have plenty of spares from the various AristoCraft engines and coaches. These work fine and all moving and rubbing areas received a coat of LaBelles grease.












And, because it is imperative that the motor be easily removable to change the wheels, I wanted the deck to be quickly/easily removable with a way for the wire to come through, but I didn't want it to show. A pair of magnets are CA'ed to the bottom of the deck to secure the deck to the two screws that hold the motor in place. The extended battery wires allow the deck plenty of freedom when removing the motor or working on the chassis. The wires are secured in the channels with wedges of foam so that they don't interfere with the placement of the deck.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I have no idea what is wrong with this web site. I post, but it doesn't show up under new posts unless I search for it. That's just ridiculous and makes it so I figure why even bother to post?


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

toddling, I found with my rail brush I needed to add some weight, and you may also. Fortunately I used a gel cel battery which not only gave all the amps I needed but the weight I needed also. 
Posting: I'm no big computer guy but just took my time to figure out how to do what I wanted, don't give up I like following some postings.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Nick Jr said:


> toddling, I found with my rail brush I needed to add some weight, and you may also. Fortunately I used a gel cel battery which not only gave all the amps I needed but the weight I needed also.
> Posting: I'm no big computer guy but just took my time to figure out how to do what I wanted, don't give up I like following some postings.



Thanks Nick,

Unlike the brush, too much weight can stall the motor, dig holes in the track, or have the unit take off running on it's own if the coupler should fail for any reason.

My cleaner spins at ~8,000 RPM!!! (unloaded on 11.1 volts) and up to 16,200 @ 16 volts and works like a Dremel where speed is substituted for torque. The weight balance is extremely important, and I will need to play with it once I get a battery-powered pusher engine powered up. I have an FA that had 15 sub-C Nicads I can replace with a lithium pack for longer run times with less weight.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the brush's rotation so it is pushing back on the engine that is pushing it, fun to see the debris flying off in front of it. While I like the concept, are you sure you want to subject the track to that much abrasion? I have always read not to use anything that will actually scratch the surface causing fine particles to collect and arching. What metal is your track?


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The LGB also "pushes back" and I had considered it, but found it unnecessary and actually detrimental to the working mode. If it "pulls" as I have it, it will continue to run forward even if the pusher engine stops. When it pulls forward, it switches itself off when it pulls the slack out of the coupler and opens the switch. And again, this spins at ~8,000 RPM unloaded (!) so is not quite the same thing.

I use brass. I've used a dry wall sander on it since 1997 and am not concerned about scratches so much as wearing holes/dips in the rail. But then, I've seen "stuck" engines do this where their wheels keep turning against the rails.

The pads are offered in four different grits and I got the "medium" grit abrasive not knowing how much it would take to do the brass. I can go to "fine" or "extra fine" to just polish the track.

These are what I am using (1" x 3/16" with flat edge). Note that a box of 100 is $127 retail. I got the box of 100 for $51 on ebay (make offer). The LGB pads are $25-$30 a pair. When I had an LGB track cleaner engine, I could go through a set of wheels (or more) getting ready for an open house. So if you do the math...

Cratex Small Wheels - BORIDE Engineered Abrasives


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Everything you said makes sence. Running forward the debris is ejected to the rear of the unit. Now it is run over by the rear wheels and the pushing locomotive. How about a small diverter behind the abrasive pad to direct the 'mung' away from the rails, like a baby flanger? Anxious to see a video of it in action.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

The pusher engine has a drywall pad that it drags and this will take up the debris.

Here you see one fitted on the FB unit. The FA that will push this is the same.



















I also have a "pipe load" that is an articulated drywall sander that can be pulled behind, a U-boat that has an articulated drywall sander between the trucks, and even a flat car that drags a scotchbrite pad and these can all follow it up removing the mung.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

toddling, all that makes me appreciate my SS track. It was on the ground for several years before my knees insisted I elevate in 07, The only time I even wiped the rail if I was going to run right after a rain or when I stained the decking. Thank you for reminding me how easy I have it.


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