# What type of glue to use?



## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

I purchased an MRC "Joe's Power Plus" gas station kit at the local hobby shop. It appears to be a styrene kit, however, as I'm gluing pieces together with Testor's model cement, (from the tube ), it doesn't appear to be adhering very well. Over the years, I've always used the Testor's for styrene plastic model kits from Revell, Monogram, Lindberg, and AMT, and never had issues before. This gas station will be used on my outdoor layout. I also noticed that it appears to be a thicker plastic than the other 4 brands.

Can anyone recommend a different glue?

Should I be using an AC glue?, and if so, What brand name?


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

MEK is always my favorite. Much cheaper and stronger than model glue. It basically welds (melts) the parts together. It's very watery, so I use a syringe type bottle from the hobby store to apply it. Strong stuff- you might want to use it in a well ventilated area.


-Kevin.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Thanks Kevin, I'll look into it, and I see I made a typo, it should be "CA"


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Hmm, that looks like some potent glue. I don't have a heated workspace, except for the kitchen table.


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

I like MEK best, too. 

I bought some Plastruct "plastic weld" glue which turned out to be a high-priced, tiny glass bottle of MEK. I mention this because I kept the bottle and now use the applicator (a brush connected to the lid smaller than but similar to that in a bottle of rubber cement) 

One of the tricky things with MEK is that it melts some plastic containers. But if you can find a brush that will stand up to it, it works great as an applicator for wicking the glue into joints without getting everywhere.

It does have a strong smell in confined spaces, especially if you use a lot of it. But my workbench is in my garage and I've never had a problem with the fumes.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

I found, while researching different model adhesives, some information on Cybermodeler Online. In there, the author talks about glue from Tamiya, both thick and thin glues, that don't have the odor, but are still good for use on plastic models. The other being CA glues.
I've used Testor's model cement on a Pola station, and a Piko Leather and Boot shop, and have not had a problem with the glue not holding, even when leaving them outside in the elements. The composition of the styrene on the gas station must be different.


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## Pete Chimney (Jan 12, 2008)

Just remember these are organic solvents; organic solvents and you genetic material (i.e. DNA) do not play well together. Prolonged exposure to the fumes is not a good thing. Also it is preferable to prevent the liquid solvents/glues from touching your bare skin.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

*Use Weld-On #16 Solvent Cement*

You will have the best luck using the thickened type acrylic solvent cement *Weld-On #16.* now manufactured by SCI Grip. It is mostly Methylene Chloride and dissolved acrylic (MMA) to thicken it but it also contains the important MEK. If you want to use straight MEK, make sure you get pure MEK as the blends being sold at most hardware stores does not work as well as a solvent cement. *TAP Plastics* has the pure MEK available.

MEK is considered a Narcotic by OSHA. Read the MSDS here.

Russ Miller
NGRC 2016 Chairman
2015 BAGRS President
TAP Plastics Manager and 35 year employee...


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Thanks for the info, Russ. I'm real leery about using the MEK, like I mentioned above, my winter workshop for construction is the kitchen table. I'm thinking that the construction of this gas station, will be put on hold until the springtime, when I can get back outside to the garage.


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## mgilger (Feb 22, 2008)

*E6000 Adhesive*

Take a look at E-6000. Holds up very nice outdoors. Tester's won't hold up very well outdoors. It comes in clear, white and black. 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Amazing-E-6000-Craft-Glue-2-oz/17808713

http://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-...TF8&qid=1453410653&sr=8-1&keywords=e6000+glue


Mark
*http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/*


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Ya know, a month ago I picked up a tube of the A6000 to use with my RC bodies, but if I recall, it too said use in a well ventilated area, so I've been hesitant to use it inside the house. I guess I should pull it out, and check the potency. Thanks Mark.


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

I agree with mark I use p-6000 with no problem. My work space in the basement is pretty small with no ventilation. Pete


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry should rear e=6000. Pete


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## pete (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok third time E-6000. Pete too early in the morning.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

LOL, no worries, I called it A6000, but I knew what you were talking about, thanks Pete


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

whatever glue you use if you can place a good caulking bead of clear 100% silicone in all the inside corners and any joint you can get to, will really provide added holding power that is flexible. 
I use Lexel Glue, I buy it at our local true value hardware, I buy both caulking gun and squeeze tube.
1/2" square wooden piece in the corners with lexel glue and using either screws or small nails will provide a permanent adhesive corners, that the weather will not destroy. I use a grex headless pinner to nail to the wooden block, so it can be glued and nailed without clamping and done in a few minutes, sets for 24 hours, holds for years.
Dennis


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

denray said:


> whatever glue you use if you can place a good caulking bead of clear 100% silicone in all the inside corners and any joint you can get to, will really provide added holding power that is flexible.
> I use Lexel Glue, I buy it at our local true value hardware, I buy both caulking gun and squeeze tube.
> 1/2" square wooden piece in the corners with lexel glue and using either screws or small nails will provide a permanent adhesive corners, that the weather will not destroy. I use a grex headless pinner to nail to the wooden block, so it can be glued and nailed without clamping and done in a few minutes, sets for 24 hours, holds for years.
> Dennis


 I've seen this method done on a few builds here, and I've started doing this to a few of my structures, thanks for the tip Dennis


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Klean-Strip 100% Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Bought it at Walmart. It doesn't work on broken plastic eye glass lens.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Ok, I'll bite, what happens when you use it on a broken plastic eye glass lens?


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## bmwr71 (Jan 30, 2010)

I have been using some ultra control thick CA glue that is supposedly good for outdoors. Clear coat everything with matte finish so that adds protection to the glue. And a while back i bought some supposed waterproof CA glue from some site in Jolly Ol England.

Regarding solvent welding, brings back memories of the old days using toluene, solvent weld and get a buzz at the same time.

Doug


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike Flea said:


> Ok, I'll bite, what happens when you use it on a broken plastic eye glass lens?


Nothing. Didn't work at all. The MEK evaporated and the lens showed no sign of the MEK ever being on it. These were frameless lens and it broke apart where the pins go through the plastic for the nose piece. Thus the wife has been wearing her contacts. Eye doctor appointment not until Feb 8th.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Found a bottle of Faller plastic cement at the local hobby shop, with a pinpoint applicator. Stuff works great, low odor, acts like a medium setting superglue. Gives you enough time to move parts around before setting, but once you clamp it, it's done.


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## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

Found another glue from the local Hobbytown. It's from Bob Smith Industries, called Foam-Cure. works on all foams and will bond a porous surface to a non-porous surface. It dries clear, and is recommended for canopies and windows. Also, low odor.


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