# Bending sheet metal (gimme a brake!)



## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Since I'm not much of a scratchbuilder, I look for things that I can adapt, modify and kitbash. I've been looking at another bird feeder at Lowe's that looks like I can turn into a residental unit for someone who lives on the far side of the tracks. For $35 it seems like a good project:










Item #: 335572 


The house is 14x14x11, not counting the hanger. It's some kind of sheet metal with a copper (or copper-looking) roof. The walls are screwed together, so reassembly should be easy. You can't tell by this graphic that I stole from the Lowe's site, but there is a bar across the front that is the big selling point for this brand (Garden Treasures). If a squirrel jumps on, the bar drops and he falls right off, thereby saving the birdseed for the....clever, huh? However, two of the three reviews on the Lowe's site say birds stay away from this feeder, squirrels or not. Not my problem, I'm looking for housing for G-scale people. (The windows, seen here as being black, are actually clear plastic.

Here's my question. Since I'll be lowering the house a couple inches, I need to fold the lower part of each side to a 90 degree angle inward. The only tool I have for that job is the edge of my workbench. Hammering it down doesn't seem like it'll give me a nice crisp fold. I have a 5" vise but I know that'll give me an uneven bend because I'm simply not very good at straight lines and such.

I remember the brake we had in seventh grade shop class. Bigger than I was, about four feet wide. You could put your bicycle in it and get a perfect "L" or "U". Harbor Freight has smaller brakes for $250-350, but I can't see spending that much. Does anyone have any ideas where I could find a smaller "brake" for say, fifty bucks? If not, any hints how I can make sure I get a clean, straight bend with hammer and ???? 

JackM

And why is it called a brake, anyway?


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## BigRedOne (Dec 13, 2012)

Do you have any lumber you can clamp the workpiece between? With that whole sandwich (two pieces of lumber plus the workpiece) clamped to the workbench, tap it down with your hammer unto you have a 90 degree bend.


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## K.A.Simpson (Mar 6, 2008)

Tin plate girl website http://tinplategirl.com/category/projects/ has vise extender plans & photos as well as other projects. Also has 1:20 scale ore cars to make from sheet metal. 
Worth a look anyway. 

Cheers from Andrew 
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Jack, take the lumber clamped in a vice idea above and add an additional small - say piece of 1 x 4 pine, or oak - same size - using it as a striking tool with a hammer of reasonable size. 

Now the key is to think slow motion, not trying to bend it all in one bend, but making small movements in the direction of your needed bend.. The hammer gives the heft and force needed. The striking block spreads the hammer blows - the load - across a larger area so as not to make any large deformations in the house sides, but just gently ''re-forming'' the sides into a new position, as you do this work! 

Try to keep your bends consistent across the wall width, and the metal should not stretch out of shape to much. Go at it slowly until you see how it happens, 

...But by all means go for it!! Try one and get back here if need be, don't need to get in a rush!! It's just metal and 30 - 40 bucks.... not to worry... 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Wish I had time for a pic here....... 

one trick is to place the forming block - 1 x 4 - next to the clamped edge of the support clamped blocks, I'm saying not to hit the metal edge at the very end or bottom of the wall, but set it close to where the bend area will take place...right where the bend will 'brake over' the support boards. It is also the stiffest in the beginning, but.. gets easier as the surface bends over ... 

Hope this comes across ...? 

Dirk


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Unless your lumber is a good hardwood (oak, maple, etc.) you may not get a good sharp bend. Hammering will produce dents and a rippled surface (hammer on the unseen surface if you have to hammer).

Better yet:

Get a couple of small iron angle pieces (one 3-ft piece and a hacksaw will make a nice 18 inch bending form).

Use a couple of "C" clamps to grip the metal to be bent between the two angle irons at the bend line, with the edge opposite the angle bend of the angle pieces toward the larger part of the metal sheet to be folded (that may seem counterintuitive, but it enables you to make the bend slightly over 90 degrees so the metal can flex back to 90 when you are done). Put the sheet on the bench with the bottom piece of angle against the edge of the bench and then while holding the metal to the bench top, bend the clamped together angels up to fold the sheet over the edge of the angle piece on the top.

Something like this:


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Jack,

Take a gander at this brake from Micromark.

http://www.micromark.com/18-inch-be...,8227.html


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## iaviksfan (Dec 27, 2007)

Harbor Freight has a 18" brake for $40. I use mine quite a bit and works well. 
Greg R


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

I got a 16 guage 10 foot brake if anyone wants to use feel free to contact me....


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

One piece of good information after another! 

- Using lumber to bend it smoothly 
- The angle iron idea is something I never would've thought of. 
- How many times have I said I gotta get a Micro-mark catalog? 
- That $40 HF brake isn't in the current (monthly) catalog, so I'll stop in on my way to work tomorrow. 

This is terrific. Thanks to all of you. 

JackM


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

unfortunately - in practice using angle iron as a support as depicted is problematic at best... 

The act of clamping a to be bent piece between - in this case your wall - will cause the angle to separate in the middle sections of the wall , providing less than ideal support and usually creating a rolled edge - not the desired sharp break looked for here. This happens due to the open space where the clamps are located, equal to the sheet wall thickness, the clamps will not be tight unless the angle is tight together and compressed, leaving the angle to bend in gradual arcs... open in the middle... 

While in the above pic it looks great, in practice there are too many loose ends to handle and control all at once, using our human hands. 

the whole affair needs to stay against the bench top to get a clean bend. 
the hands are trying to both hold the mess on the bench top - downward pressure. 
while bending and rolling the clamped angles to create the bend desired, is actually lifting everything off the bench.. 

This is too much to control and still get a sharp bend in the end... 

So, how thick are the metal walls? 

Dirk


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Why not stabilize the front 'porch' build steps up to it and paint the parts to be bent to look like brick foundation. Not every doorway opens at ground level. 
I see no easy way to bend 4 sides of a box. A lot of disassembly may be required.... 

John


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Dirk - Points taken - unlikely that would've ocurred to me. 

I don't know the wall thickness yet because I didn't buy one from the local Lowe's. They have a "bird problem" there. They have three in stock, sitting on a deep shelf at about eye level. Picking up the front one by the hanger, and trying not to be too grossed out, I found the roof was seriously covered in bird droppings. The other two were too far back to be reached so I found a helpful employee who used a short hoe from the garden tools section to pull the next one out. Not quite as bad, but roof corners were bent. Ditto the third one. I ended up calling their Customer Service who checked with their store near where I work. They have a few that are "clean and unbent". I'll pick it up tomorrow. 

John - Disassembly should be very easy. Each wall held with three sheet metal screws. Interesting idea about the foundation. Some Plastruct brick sheet would be easy to glue on and a porch wouldn't be too tough. Hmmmmm... 

JackM


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Jack, 
If you do bend, each one will be at a different length to allow for thickness or your corners won't lay flat. 

I'd coat the 'foundation' with tar where it would be covered with dirt, stuck in into a sloping yard. You only have to dress up the front and parts of the sides. I've seen row houses like that. A front porch rocker and all the neighbors along the street sharing the last hours of daylight.... fireflies....crickets... the laughter and tears of children diverted to bedtime prayers and a story... 
yeah I can just see it! 
Turn out the front porch light when you come in. 

John


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

OK guys - corners can be cut at a 45 -50 degree for clearance and matched bend set-ups! 

I really could get into My buddy John's ' Story' 'bout a house on a hill side, My grandparents home was on a hill side - tho the home was on flat ground.... 

Jack, glad you got my point - it came the hard way!! LOL,.. in the 'Don't ask how I know' - sub group"... 

I have done body work and have been a fabricator/welder & mechanic most of My life, starting as a teenager...I have tried most every conceivable approach to bending metal items, from very tiny brass stuff to huge and heavy items for farms and mines. I have bent heavy flat stock using a 50 ton press, and a torch to heat with during the bending process, worked 5 years building armored trucks, and enjoyed being allowed the use and learning to write the program info for a CNC controlled 12 foot break. I have covered it all, so it is enjoyable for me to share with others, and hopefully keep them out of the pits I have visited in My learning thru out life. 

Had a thought while eating dinner tonight.... Wouldn't it be wonderful IF - WE as a MLS group could form and have a Community Club, where we could pool all our combined talents and work and share together, then run trains together!!!!! 

I think,.. I will nominate John - "Totalwrecker" - to be OUR first years President. !!!! Yah!! 

Dirk - DMS Ry. 

Don't forget the porch light too guys!! good night!! ha


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SD90WLMT on 21 Jan 2013 06:26 AM 
unfortunately - in practice using angle iron as a support as depicted is problematic at best... 

The act of clamping a to be bent piece between - in this case your wall - will cause the angle to separate in the middle sections of the wall , providing less than ideal support and usually creating a rolled edge - not the desired sharp break looked for here. This happens due to the open space where the clamps are located, equal to the sheet wall thickness, the clamps will not be tight unless the angle is tight together and compressed, leaving the angle to bend in gradual arcs... open in the middle... 

While in the above pic it looks great, in practice there are too many loose ends to handle and control all at once, using our human hands. 

the whole affair needs to stay against the bench top to get a clean bend. 
the hands are trying to both hold the mess on the bench top - downward pressure. 
while bending and rolling the clamped angles to create the bend desired, is actually lifting everything off the bench.. 

This is too much to control and still get a sharp bend in the end... 

So, how thick are the metal walls? 

Dirk 



I guess I am glad I made the air deflector for my furnace duct outlet from aluminium using the C-clamps and angle irons before I posted my method and found out it was a problem.









I only put the C-clamp on the end because at the time I only had one clamp that could reach over the angle on the top and not interfere with the bend by hitting the work surface before it reached a 90 degree bend. Otherwise it probably would be better to have the clamps gripping all three pieces at once and not subject the angle iron to bowing around something clamped between the angle ironss with the clamps outside of that.











I didn't want the heat or cold air from the duct to blow directly on my new china hutch. (BTW. the duct openings are near the ceiling in my house.)

I now have more and bigger clamps, but since I also now have an 18 inch brake, I doubt if I will do it with the angle irons again.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Yes and corners can be bent in/up, but I didn't think Jack had the tools to do that...and for the buried side/end the off sets wouldn't be that noticable. Better to see 'em coming. 
I was a metal smith for 26 years, tho' on a smaller scale than my Buddy Dirk, my boss kept me locked in the back room. 

My dinner was far less fancifull, Groucho Marx is my campain manager and we won't join any club that would have us as elected officials! I'm a Grand Poobah, not a mere President! But we've got all that with MLS except the elbow rubbin'.... 

Happy Rails 

John


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

certainly glad you got away from your locker room Boss John, n'therwise ya'ud never get to play with your trains!! 

how'd ya break away from him anyway!!?? 

Dinners come ...... 

............... an go!! 

Trying to induce some friction is all, increasing the elbow rubbing quee - woo - scent!! 

odds are better that way of ex-citing some mole-clues!! 

D - good am gents!!


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

SV, guess I have not been here long enough, wish You came with a .. name???! 

based on the heater duct standard size, I would think your aluminum was not very thick, and clearly not of a higher or harder T value.. making it a fairly easy bending project. 

Glad you moved on to a small home break to use also!! 

Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By SD90WLMT on 22 Jan 2013 05:23 AM 
SV, guess I have not been here long enough, wish You came with a .. name???! 

based on the heater duct standard size, I would think your aluminum was not very thick, and clearly not of a higher or harder T value.. making it a fairly easy bending project. 

Glad you moved on to a small home break to use also!! 

Dirk - DMS Ry. 

Yes, I came here with a name, ---- "Semper Vaporo" being it. As far as I can tell, I am the only person in the whole wide world that uses that name on the internet. 
I do like the name my parents gave me, but the older I get the more I reserve its use to family, "close" friends in face-to-face relationships and legal proceedings.

I hesitate to use it on the internet because it is also the name of a philanthropist Doctor in an area around Kentucky and Tennesee and I do not want to sully his good name with my goofy doings on the internet.
It is also the name of a man wanted for murder in South Carolina and I don't want to be associated with such as he (even if the warrant was issued in 1886).
The name was also the name of a drunk driver that caused the police to come to my parents home seeking ME when I was but 6 years old.
I know of several other humans with the same name and I have evidence of a chimpanzee that was in a now defunct circus that was given the same name as I.

I am now using the name "Semper" when I go to eaterys that ask for the name of the person placing the order, because the last two times I used my real name, someone else walked off with the food I paid for.

All in all, I guess I prefer being a totally unique individual, just like everybody else.









You are free to address me as "SemperVaporo", "Semper", "Semp", "SV", "hey you", or "that nut that won't use his real name on the internet", but you are more apt to recieve a more pleasant reply if you refrain from using the latter two, if you get any reply at all, since I might think you are refering to someone else.












As for the thickness of the metal, yes the thinner stuff is easier to bend, but I have bent tinplate stuff in a similar manner (how I know that hammering produces dents and to use a hardwood as opposed to a pine or fir). I am sure my method would not work on armor plate or glass, but it "possibly" could work on a metal bird feeder if'n it ain' "TOO" thick nor hardened.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Semp,..S.V., 

That was an interesting read Semp.. Ok I'll try it!! Thanks for sharing. 

WE have more than trains in common I see!! I have a fairly uncommon name which I do use, being My middle name that I go by, My first name being very common and both My Father's and Grandfather's name also, hence My family made some changes to reduce the confusion already in the family!! In my life I have only met a very few others with "MY' name.... ha... 

I can better appreciate your choices and reasoning !!! 
.............................................................................................................. 

Just to re-touch on one point I made earlier, have you tried using a wood block - between the metal being formed and the hammer, hitting the hammer against the block such that the blocks blows are transferred to the metal - to move it? The block spreads the blow from the hammer, and does little or no damage to the surface!! It certainly does not give a big dent as compared to using a hammer directly... 

Have a great evening - go play trains!!! Thanks - Dirk - DMS Ry.


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

I picked up the 18" brake at HF yesterday for $39.99 minus a 20% off coupon AND I had a coupon for another free LED flashlight, but they were out of them. Maybe next time. I haven't opened the box yet, but I see it mounts with 1/4" bolts so I think I'll drill the holes and use wing nuts so it doesn't take up needed space when I'm not using it which will be most of the time. Should be usefull once in a while.

I also picked up the birdfeeder at the other Lowe's location. It is, indeed, clean and unbent. Unfortunately, I didn't give it a really good inspection when I picked up the gross one at the first Lowe's. Turns out there are only two screws - they attach the squirrel trick thing. The rest of the feeder is riveted together. That'll make disassembly a bit more work. I think I should be able to use an angle grinder (or Dremel tool with cut-off wheel) to remove the rivets from the inside so I won't harm the lovely outside surface.

But it doesn't look like I'll be proceeding with this project right away because UPS delivered my order of Bachman steel wheels and more Kadees from RLD. Not like I'll be able to run any trains on the snow-covered track for a couple months (I escaped the big snow that was forecast last night - I only got about four inches), but that's the job I've been looking forward to for a few years, so I'll probably get going on the rollingstock upgrade before I start work on the birdfeeder.

I'll keep you posted.

JackM


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

You'll probably come to your senses by then and will use that cut off wheel to remove what offends you. Glue it to a new base. 
Congrats on the new Brake, it will come in handy someday! 
John


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## JackM (Jul 29, 2008)

Today is "store return" day. First is the transformer that arrived yesterday for a halogen ceiling fixture that hasn't worked for a few months. While waiting for it to get here (Lowe's dopesn't sell halogen transformers - they don't even know they exist!) I started to realize that the manufacturer of the lighting fixture made the mistake of using a screw-type connector to connect the transformer output wires to the halogen wiring. When I took it apart a few days ago, the wires did seem loose. The transformer wires have soldered ends. Nice and neat that way. But I recall someone on this very website saying that you don't put soldered wires into a clamp-type connector because they won't stay clamped. So I put everything back the way it was originally, and it works! I guess that means I can expect it to stop working every eight years or so. The things you learn on this website! 

I also decided to return the $40 brake to HF. I decided it's not worth drilling mounting holes into my workbench. For as little as I'll ever use it, I think I go with the rudimentary "hammer it in a vise" technique. Not very often that I need to bend anything, anyway. 

The reason for getting my $32 dollars back (I had a 20% coupon) is that I decided to take John T. Wrecker's advise. Not worth the effort to lower the entire birdhouse. I'll get some Plastruct brick sheet and wrap it around the base of the house and go with the style I always see in Chicago, as Amtrak gets close to Union Station. All those houses are built up kinda high; five or six steps to get up to the front door. I guess they're built with the basements not as deep as we have them in the northeast. They look strange to me, but who am I to tell the future residents of Birdville how deep their basement should be? 

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. 

JackM


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## Jonnychuffchuff (Dec 24, 2010)

(March 7 2013) Gary just wrote an article on a DIY bench brake here; it's brilliant, simple and CHEAP: 
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/24/aft/127564/afv/topic/Default.aspx


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