# Need ideas to cut back on yard work



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I am starting to get pumped about the G RR again, but I need to come up with a way to cut way back on yard work. Look in my history of all the ways I tried. By 3 year its a mess again.

The track and roadbed are fine. Dang wild grasses and weeds. ` 

thanks


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

A "Master Gardener" in my area was asked once how he kept the weeds at bay... his response: "Gallons and gallons of RoundUp."


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## izzy0855 (Sep 30, 2008)

Concrete!


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## Henson (Jan 2, 2008)

Generic Roundup Concentrate from the farm store is what I use.


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## Ted Doskaris (Oct 7, 2008)

Marty,

Since I have been extending my layout outdoors I, too, have to deal with the weeds.

The following has worked for me, but my area is only about 1350 square feet - small compare to your vast land area. A large area can be costly to treat with chemicals.

First I use granular AMAZE Grass & Weed Preventer









Then maybe a couple of weeks later followed by Ortho Ground Clear (Triox) liquid diluted 1 /4 with water and applied with a pump sprayer









-Ted


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

I have a five step yard maintenance strategy...one of which is physical.

1. I use a pre-emergent on the lawn in February...it keeps weed seeds from germinating.
2. I use Scotts.com's lawn fertilizing plan. I've logged in, made an account, entered the data on the lawn I have...and it sends me emails regarding when and what to put down. I do NOT always put down the Scotts fertilizer....but I must say, their slow release stuff really works well. The lawn gets so dense, weeds have trouble growing.
3. I developed a watering plan. I change the duration of the watering cycles monthly. Water costs $5 per 1000 gallons here, so at 0.5 cents a gallon you don't want to waste water, but you want to water enough to get a dense lawn.
4. For weeding...this is the manual part...I use a Hula Hoe . This thing slides across the top of the dirt and cuts the root off leaves. It's easy and all you have to do is rake up the weeds.
5. I use RoundUp in the grey bottle...that's the one with pre-emergent in it. It kills the weeks and leaves stuff in the ground that prevent weed seeds from germinating in the planting beds. If you have annuals...use the regular stuff in the white bottle. I wander around monthly at most with my RoundUp bottle.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By NTCGRR on 16 Dec 2012 07:09 PM 
I am starting to get pumped about the G RR again, but I need to come up with a way to cut way back on yard work. Look in my history of all the ways I tried. By 3 year its a mess again.

The track and roadbed are fine. Dang wild grasses and weeds. ` 

thanks

A lot of the convenient stores around Phoenix have gone to Plastic bushes and plants around the stores to cut down on Maintenance. Why don't you get some Plastic weeds and plastic grass and replace the real stuff 


JJ


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## Rod Fearnley (Jan 2, 2008)

I haven't got as much land as you Marty, But I do get or used to get a lot of weeds. I now have a fine weed barrier material mesh underneath the decomposed granite chippings and dust that I laid. Nothing gets through that.

Other than that, I just use a large pair of Scissors to edge the track where it is encroached bu ground cover purposely laid.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

JJ 

You remind me of my SIL and how she used plastic flowers to decorate her yard back in WV. It was always funny in the winter with snow on the ground and those plastic flowers looking picture perfect. 

As for weed control Marty, forget the RoundUp, it's worthless. 

If you really want to kill off the weeds, use gasoline. When you look at the ingrediants of RoundUp, using gasoline isn't so bad.


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

marty 
i know you don't like flowers but john leforestier found that this works for him and i'm going to try it Plant forgetmenots and let them go crazy.


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## vsmith (Jan 2, 2008)

All methods are effective at reducing the amount of yard work .


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

pic #2 please ,no thank you,i'll take #3 nothing like the smell of napalm in the morning


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Refresh the thead and look again, picture #2 changes.... cute... 

The one at the piano is not singing though? 

Greg


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## Chris_Haon (Dec 28, 2011)

I have put down heavy duty weed fabric and covered that With river rock.


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## bicyclexc (Mar 31, 2010)

Mix the sawdust from pressure treated lumber into the soil in small amounts but be careful, NOTHING will grow in that soil EVER again.


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## Naptowneng (Jun 14, 2010)

A few web resources on weed control over large areas FWIW

http://pats-eduent.net/wintheweedbattle.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_8294844_kil...-area.html


Jerry


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## ddevoto (Jan 22, 2008)

Marty,

Try these two.










http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...-1&keyword=roundup&storeId=10051#.UM9LGnfAF8E


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I use Preen a few times a year, but still have to do some hand weeding. A good thick groundcover helps to smother out weeds also. If you want a big railroad, you will have to devote the time to it, which is why I kept mine small!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I've used Roundup for so many years, and it does not poison the soil... the active ingredient breaks down after 6 months. 

New weeds and plants can grow in the soil. 

Make a little sprayer car and run it around the railroad... actually let it drip slowly. 

But I gather your weed issues are more trouble in the open areas? The roadbed area itself is a piece of cake. 

Greg


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## jimtyp (Jan 2, 2008)

Weed mat and rock is what I did. Most work and highest up front cost, but you only have to do it once.


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## Ted Nordin (Feb 27, 2008)

Picture #3 Does work but having done that for 6 months in SE Asia, I can tell you it is also dangerous.

Ted (aka Zippo6) lucky to return to SE AZ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I used double fabric thickness way back. this time thin concrete i think along right of ways. 
I don't know. Soil id too rich around here. weed seeds from around the fields here hurt me bad. Not like living in the city.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The weed killer with the pre-emergent is the best in my opinion, like Mike said. 

You will always get seeds blowing and trying to start. 

Greg


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Without a doubt, the pre-emergent application before spring (when the weeds begin to germinate from the rains)(I do mine in February) has the MOST positive effect in reducing weed growth. I buy that stuff at an ag store...not a Home Depot...lots cheaper. It gives you time for the spring fertilizing to get the lawn going before the weeds get going. In year 1, it reduced the number of weeds in my lawn by over 90% for three months. In year 2, I had only a handful of weeds in the first three months. In year 3, I just had grass...no weeds. I'm not in a city...but the area is developed...with LOTS of undeveloped, raw land from which weed seeds do blow. I get more weeds in the planting beds now and in the orchard...places where I don't put the pre-emerge...but I handle them with RoundUp...and that's pretty easy. 

The second most positive action is the feeding of the lawn to get a thick, dense lawn....that's what keeps the weed seeds that blow in from growing...they don't get to the soil. I have a hybrid bermuda lawn, which when fed is incredibly dense but in your locale, you'll need to plant a fine bladed grass like fescue to get that dense coverage...then feed it at least every six weeks during the growing season...and use weed and feed fertilizer if you see patches where weeds are breaking through. That stuff works ok IF you water just before you spread the fertilizer and shut off the watering for two days. It's got to sit on the weed to kill it...that's why you need to wet the lawn before application...and keep the dog off. I have found that the liquid weed killers you spray on a lawn to kill weeds to be relatively ineffective.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mike Reilley on 17 Dec 2012 12:34 PM 
I have found that the liquid weed killers you spray on a lawn to kill weeds to be relatively ineffective. 

In Florida, I've found that all the weed killers and weed and grass killers are ineffective.

You spray the weeds and before they're dead, new weeds are growing up right net to the dying ones.

Ortho Ground Clear Concentrate does a decent job if you double the mix rate.

But it kills grass too.

I still think Gasoline works best.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Randy....read Jerry's post above. It explains why week killers don't work where you live...you have different "grasses" and "weeds" down there. They're not seed based is my guess...and are stolen based.


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## Dale W (Jan 5, 2008)

Marty, at your last open house I noted you were moving sand or gravel with a little cart behind a garden/lawn tractor. If you can get to your weed areas with this purchase one of those small 12 volt weed sprayers with a 35-40 gallon tank. Using a hand wand as you drive you can spray a fair size area rather quickly. I use one of these small sprayers mounted on a atv for small areas on my farm. Easy weed control while sitting on my duff. 

Consult with an agronomy specialist at your local agricultural co-op for the best herbicides for your needs. 

Dale


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I got it!!!!! I need a group of you to come everyother month and work half a day and play half a day. that will keep it under control. 
I have a club size RR, but its mainly just me.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

As Horace Greeley would say (well, almost)...go up young man, go up. 

I use PT lumber for my weed control.   but then I hate yard work!


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmm. Your yard workers have grown up and moved on.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 17 Dec 2012 07:21 PM 
I got it!!!!! I need a group of you to come everyother month and work half a day and play half a day. that will keep it under control. 
I have a club size RR, but its mainly just me. 
Dang...every OTHER month....half day???? Wish I could get down to that little amount of work.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd be willing to trade a half day's work for a half day's run time, but I think it would have to occur on different days as either one would wear me out for other half. 

And I got a feeling Marty would want the work half day FIRST and I'd want it the other way round, just in case I got totally wore out after the 1st half day and had to go home.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

My yardman moved out years ago, but he moved back in a couple years ago. 

While children moving back home is normally not considered a good thing, I don't know what I would have done without my sone living with us over the last two years. 

Jason has helped me move to this house and does all the yard work. 

As for the housework, I hired a house keeper and she starts Thursday. 

So, Marty have you considered a lawn service or maybe a high school kid to do your lawn work?


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## Dean Whipple (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty check with your local farm supply.... 
FWIW for the last 8 or 9 years in my Avocado grove I've use a generic substitute for "Roundup Powermax" called "Glyphosate Plus Surfactant" and it's mixed at about 1 ounce per gallon, I buy it 5 gallons a a time and currently it sells for less than $17.00 a gallon, from XSAg.com


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

This is what the digital age has done to us

One of the greatest week killer was FIXER from developing film 

Talk about scorched earth 

Nothing would grow there for years 

JJ


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## BillBrakeman (Jan 3, 2008)

> I got it!!!!! I need a group of you to come everyother month and work half a day and play half a day. that will keep it under control.
> I have a club size RR, but its mainly just me.
> 
> 
> ...


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I knew that would back fire on me, I am greatfull to all YOU who do help, but its still a big project and you have your own RRs to build also. 
I can't ask for any more help.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

I can't believe you haven't thought of the most obvious way not to do yard work!











You could even name him "Rocky"

Chris


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

This time of year I always get the itch to order lots more fruit and nut trees to plant on my acreage but then realize that I should be taking better care of what I already have. Although with the losses from last year's dry summer . . . Funny how I haven't had any weed problems on my outdoor layout the past couple of months (only tree leaves and now snow). 

The ways to approach weed control are: mechanical vr chemical, and preventive vr after they've already come up. Time vr money are also considerations, and are influenced by layout size. In general, preventative will cost more money but will save time in the long run. Plan for vegetation (what is wanted and what is unwanted) in addition to where the track will run. Things are almost always easier to put in while the railroad is being built. Do what's appropriate for your area, for example JJ doesn't use Kentucky bluegrass. Use local materials (hardscape/rocks, etc. - will look more "natural" as well as cut down on shipping costs) as well as plants that are doing well for your neighbors. Some approaches will work pretty well everywhere, but other approaches won't. Look at what the "real" railroads do in your area and see if their methods can be modified for yours. 

In southeast Nebraska, given our soils and weed pressure, for track right of way, weed mat and rock (or a thin layer of concrete) will greatly help but won't be the final solution. Wind blown dirt will clog the spaces in the rock and eventually give weeds a place to grow. Likewise with mulch that is put down once and not attended to periodically. Still, these types of preventive mechanical barriers will greatly lessen the amount of weeds AS LONG AS weeds aren't allowed to run wild some year and leave tens of thousands of weed seeds right where you don't want them (and some weed seeds can survive in the soil for 50 years or more). For the weeds that do come up, glyphosate (ie brand name Roundup or one of the generics) is supposed to kill everything green that it touches. That's why it can be safely sprayed around trees, as long as it only touches stems or trunks that aren't showing green where it touches. And as has been pointed out, it is a relatively safe product and breaks down in a few months. Straight glyphosate does not have any residual effect and will kill only what it touches on the day that it is sprayed, but you can now buy Roundup mixes that have a pre-emergent included (they're a bit pricey). PREEN is widely used as a pre-emergent, and has some fertilizer mixed in for those who want to use it in gardens. It works by putting down a chemical barrier that interferes with the seed's sprouting so Preen will NOT work if a plant is already growing, and that's why timing is very important. Lawn & garden experts can recommend the time to apply pre-emergents for different parts of the country, usually to prevent crab grass, etc. in lawns. Remember, it is ILLEGAL to use a chemical lawn/garden product "off label" (including strength) even for over the counter such as Roundup or Preen. Several common farm weeds are becoming resistant to Roundup in some states for a variety of reasons, including farmers not using the full LABELED rate. (As a side note, most farmers will use gallons and gallons of crop chemicals every year but the highest use rate per acre is on suburban lawns) (this doesn't apply to me, cause I have a "yard" not a "lawn"). By the way, 2,4-D is cheap and effective for most dicots which includes dandelions and TREES and many garden plants such as TOMATOES and GRAPES and DOESN'T have to touch green vegetation to kill. It can also drift quite easily in very little wind or higher temperatures, and it isn't unusual for a farmer spraying a product containing 2,4-D to "hit" a neighbors garden, grape orchard, or soybean field. 

There is a difference between annual weeds (ones that have to come up from seed every year, like crabgrass) and perennial weeds (ones that stay alive from one year to the next). Pre-emergents like Preen will have absolutely no effect on a perennial plant once it is growing. For best control in our area, generally spray in the fall when the perennial weed is translocating its energy down into its roots. 

IMHO I think you were on the right track with using a weed barrier but then will need routine followup to stay ahead of the weeds. The farm fields adjacent to your place will be a constant source of new weed seeds, but I think that it is more important to prevent weeds from growing on the layout and then guaranteed to be leaving their seeds right where you don't want them. Once weeds get a hold of an area it's almost like trying to remodel a house that has a bad foundation. We battled grass type sandburs for several years after we bought our place and still have a few, but by pulling every single one we saw we were able to get ahead of them spreading NEW seeds. 

And most important of all, do as I say and not as I do.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

2-4-D I buy in bulk and dandilions are easy to kill in the spring. 
Everything you said is right. 
Most of the farmers around here try to keep cost down when using chemicals. 
concrete under rock is next, then they can't take root.


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

The definition for a weed is a plant that is out of place. People pay lots of money to plant oak trees in their lawns, but an oak tree would be a weed when it's growing in the middle of a railroad track. 

2,4-D in the spring on dandelions works well because small weeds are much, much easier to kill than big weeds that have gotten established. Many ag chemical instructions say to use when the weed is 1 to 4 inches tall and actively growing (like in the spring). 2,4-D is cheap compared to most other ag/lawn chemicals and can be a major ingredient in many mixes. So if you're buying something like Tri-mec look to see if it has 2,4-D in it, and if it does it will usually be much cheaper to try 2,4-D by itself first. Once again, the major disadvantage with 2,4-D is that it can drift with only a light breeze, especially if the temperature is 80 degrees or above. Also it has little or no residual action - what it hits that day is what gets killed. For some longer lasting action there is an ag chemical for pastures that mixes 2,4-D and Tordon (that you have to have a state pesticide license to buy), but I would NEVER use it anywhere near trees you want to keep because Tordon is nasty and can spread from the roots of one tree and also kill the one next to it. Believe it or not, I put Tordon RTU on some plum stumps and it killed a 20 foot tall cedar tree that was 20 feet away. Also, putting something with Tordon in it where people or pets go is not a good idea. 

Even with concrete under rock, over the years some dirt will blow into the spaces in the rock and give a place for weed seeds. The concrete should help a lot with weeds with taproots, like dandelions, but not as much for weeds with fibrous roots, like crabgrass.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By HaBi Farm on 25 Dec 2012 08:46 AM 
The definition for a weed is a plant that is out of place. People pay lots of money to plant oak trees in their lawns, but an oak tree would be a weed when it's growing in the middle of a railroad track. 

2,4-D in the spring on dandelions works well because small weeds are much, much easier to kill than big weeds that have gotten established. Many ag chemical instructions say to use when the weed is 1 to 4 inches tall and actively growing (like in the spring). 2,4-D is cheap compared to most other ag/lawn chemicals and can be a major ingredient in many mixes. So if you're buying something like Tri-mec look to see if it has 2,4-D in it, and if it does it will usually be much cheaper to try 2,4-D by itself first. Once again, the major disadvantage with 2,4-D is that it can drift with only a light breeze, especially if the temperature is 80 degrees or above. Also it has little or no residual action - what it hits that day is what gets killed. For some longer lasting action there is an ag chemical for pastures that mixes 2,4-D and Tordon (that you have to have a state pesticide license to buy), but I would NEVER use it anywhere near trees you want to keep because Tordon is nasty and can spread from the roots of one tree and also kill the one next to it. Believe it or not, I put Tordon RTU on some plum stumps and it killed a 20 foot tall cedar tree that was 20 feet away. Also, putting something with Tordon in it where people or pets go is not a good idea. 

Even with concrete under rock, over the years some dirt will blow into the spaces in the rock and give a place for weed seeds. The concrete should help a lot with weeds with taproots, like dandelions, but not as much for weeds with fibrous roots, like crabgrass. 

***** What state do you live in and who is this?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Look up his posts, related to the plant industry... has his own site. 

sounds like he knows quite a bit about plants and weed control. 

greg


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Not to derail the thread too much, but I have a question about roundup. I worry about how close I get to my wanted plants. Anyone know how wide the stuff soaks into the ground?


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

If the area you want to use the roundup or any weed killer on, is up hill from wanted plants or grass, rain water or lawn sprinklers will wash the chemical down to the wanted plants. The more chemical you lay down in one area, the more apt it will be spread by rain or the lawn sprinkler watering.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Its always kinda nice to atless have a first name to chat to.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Reading the directions for Round - Up, Rain free in 30 minutes... 

Never have it "spread around'.. 

I spray and soak well the plants - grass or weed - I do not want... not other plants... 

D


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I agree Marty, so many post and 'forget to sign their Name" that you don't know who your addressing, except some guy who looks like he likes trains!! 

Times they are a chang'n - again... And I wish more would say where they live also............just me? 

Dirk


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Greg - I don't have my own site, not even on facebook. Heck, I don't even carry a cell phone with me. 

Marty - about a year ago I emailed you a question about under layment in an attic. 

Roundup - if you are using so much that it is soaking into the ground, you are using too much. Spray it only on the green foliage of what you want to kill. One trick is to use a mechanical barrier while you are spraying to protect the plant you want to save - such as an upside down 5 gallon bucket or piece of cardboard. As soon as you stop spraying, it should be safe to remove the mechanical barrier.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OH???? You could still share your name ,,Mark.... 
Good to have you on MLS, atless sign Mark after posting. we don't need a last name. 

The reason I ask, Tordon I buy here in town, I don't need a private applicators license. ( I understood) 
But then everyone in town seems to know me.


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Sorry Marty, I'm the other Rodney, from about 75 miles west of you. 

Tordon RTU is legal for anyone over 18 (or 21?) to buy, since it's already been diluted down some (to be Ready To Use). Cost a little under $20 for a quart. Lots of places have it that way to use directly on tree stumps.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Wow, looks like you have an expert neighbor near by Marty! 

Greg


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## lotsasteam (Jan 3, 2008)

This thing can be converted into: add tiller/mower/Dynamite jaws/well drilling/trenching tool/ tree saw/brush cutter/ dog walker/kitty chaser/mole collector usw.. Manfred


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I was looking back through my first class photos and up untill 08 I did so much work on the RR the weeds did not have time to grow. Since then it has slowed down with changes. 
many of the plants were so small you could walk around them..


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jake3404 on 26 Dec 2012 10:23 AM 
Not to derail the thread too much, but I have a question about roundup. I worry about how close I get to my wanted plants. Anyone know how wide the stuff soaks into the ground? If this is a worry, don't spray it but wipe it on the weeds you want gone. Farmers used to "whip" their bean fields to get rid of volunteer corn stalks. They'd drive between the rows holding a long rope thingy that had roundup on it over the rows. This would pass harmlessly over the beans, but wipe roundup on the taller corn plants. Now, they have beans that withstand roundup so they just spray the stuff. You don't need it on the ground, just on the leaves. One thing they like about roundup is it doesn't last. It degrades in a short time so as not to bother whatever they do want to grow there. 

Also, you can use something more specific. To get rid of grasses among broad leaf plants, use Lasso. To get rid of broad leaf weeds in grass, use 2-4-D.



I learned all this when I married a tomboy farm girl.


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Thanks for the advice on Roundup. I will take it to heart come spring. 

Hijack off, thanks for the indulgence Marty.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It will overspray more than you think, give it 12 inches to be safe... I've found it to be 6-8 inches, and it can spread a bit, but it only works on the leaves not the ground. 

Decomposes in about 6 months. 

Wiped on leaves with a paint brushes works good in close quarters.

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Well I no longer care about shade.

Weed seeds, stickes, leaves have to be stopped.









I was planning on taking this covered thing down anyway , Wil thought it would be cool to video it as the tree came down.

Today it was 50 degrees and the guys had time to help me cut trees and pull them down.

Only one tree went the wrong way even with a pickup pulling it. We thought it might.










Last two trees I need someone with a bucket truck to top them so we can drop them.
One bridge was taken out but I was going to rebuild it anyway.
Most places I layed a sheet of OSB over the track so the branches would not damage them.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Go Marty! 

The only trees I like are on other peoples property. 

Property away from mine.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you actually get the video? 

Looks like a smashing success! 

Greg


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Falling trees has more to do with where your tongue is .. 

How you twist your mouth .... 

And whether you say ''tally ho'' or ''timber''... 

Course it helps to cut on the right side of the tree...not the left! 

Dirk


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg 
yes , but I don't know how to get the video over here. 
My son Wil took it ,then posted it on my facebook page.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Are you cutting up the trees to make ties for the 1 inch RR?


I hope you got Thomas out of the covered thing before you dropped the tree on it. 

Now where are the Grandkids going to play train ? 


With the removal of all these trees are you going to change the theme of the Rail road from Midwestern to Desert motif?









JJ 




See the tree fall-------------> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4272084999561&set=vb.1209234750&type=2&theater


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

If 2013 happens...... I can see a vast field of Easy-Ups....


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Marty, 

Which bridge did you loose? 

Chris


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## Ron Hill (Sep 25, 2008)

Marty, Spectracide has Weed and Grass Killer product that is really good. Kills in 24 hours. Can be used in dry conditions and right after a rain. I have used it for a number of years after my neighbor introduced me to it. Comes premixed and can be purchased at Walmart, Home Depot or Lowes. You have to be careful around miniature trees when spraying because it will kill them too. I made a spray containment if you will out of a clear plastic small storage container from Walmart by cutting out the bottom and spraying into it. It contains the overspray and I can spray next to my Spruce trees and not damage them. 
Ron


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 18 Jan 2013 07:18 PM 
If 2013 happens...... I can see a vast field of Easy-Ups....






















If 2013 happens I can see us having to bring not only our chairs but umbrella too


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Marty - once again, a weed is a plant out of place. Guess you decided those trees were weeds. Just hope that the folks at Arbor Day Lodge don't send their police after you. Oh well, if you don't tell them, I won't either. Maybe to use up some of the wood you could put in a fire pit for cooking hot dogs? 

(For the rest of you, Nebraska City is the home of the National Arbor Day Foundation - the tree planting people) 

the other Rodney


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## chuckger (Jan 2, 2008)

Hi Marty, 

How about twelve inches of blacktop on each side od the right of way, painted green to match your grass. That should keep the weeds out of your track. 

Chuck


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

AstroTurf either side of the road bed? 

Or Maybe the whole yard that way you wont have to mow it. 


JJ


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm with Chuck excetp I'll go one further. Black top the whole back yard and paint it green. 

Years ago, my late father had the whole front yard black topped and painted green. 

Being we lived on a busy street with an apartment building next door, it was hard to find a parking place so my dad started parking the car in the front yard. 

That led to dead grass and a dirt front yard which led to the black top and green paint.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Chris, heres your answer

OOOPPPSSSS!!!!!!









North end Highline bridge

Some assembly required.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Oh man, I really liked that bridge. Can't wait to see it's replacement. 

Keep it up,glad to see you are fired up in G-Scale again! 

Chris


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

We got the branches off today and most is reusable, keep in mind its GARDEN METAL MODELS built strong, built to last. 
And JJ, there will be more room to have covered tents and easier to walk around. More people friendly.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Caught the Facebook video of the tree demolishing the metal sun shade... Direct hit....


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

People Friendly is good.


I am also glad to see you working on the layout. 

JJ


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Agent Orange.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

wonder if this will work 
turn sound on


or this??
 [url="http://www.facebook.com/home...p://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/...eater[/url]


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

would not work for me marty


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine is showing this.. Then it may be my win 8 crap.













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The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable, the link you clicked on may have expired, or you may not have permission to view this page.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I tried sorry All Elm trees are going encluding across the fence , saving ONLY the tall pine by gazebo.
Tired of all the broken stickes each time the wind blows and millions of seed that start to grow up.
This should cut my weed seed problem from 15 million to around 2 million each spring. ???


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

You can only see that video if you have a FB account...and perhaps be friended to Marty.

I count three trees down. Next time Google does a pass, you're going to be able the north end of the layout. How many more trees are coming out????


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok... got the video on FB. as Mikie said. Guess one way to get to rebuild things. Been there and just had to say that.. lol.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Elm trees are horrible for spitting little sticks even in a light breeze (which is a 20mph wind around here). I have 4 that I would LOVE to cut down. 

Chris


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

The repaired bridge won't have handrails but it will live.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 20 Jan 2013 01:38 PM 
I tried sorry All Elm trees are going encluding across the fence , saving ONLY the tall pine by gazebo.
Tired of all the broken stickes each time the wind blows and millions of seed that start to grow up.
This should cut my weed seed problem from 15 million to around 2 million each spring. ???











If you made those edits on the photos Marty...you be getting way better with your confuser.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Marty - After all the trees you took down, and raked up all the leaves you shook loose, You'll have fewer later to rake again.. 

But I was out doing just that today, only I was thinking about you, and how glad you are you do not have "Mesquite'' trees - with their tiny leaves to rake up. Rakes just don't cut it with those tiny leaves. But I just kept raking...anyways! Lots to get picked up this winter and coming spring! Most are not over the layout - still in the area just the same. 

Dirk - DMS Ry. Member of an ..all battery power Group of MLS!! A SIG group!!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like a war zone.
Our son Wil took some time and dug up the sod for me where the new car shed will be.










It will be 6ft wide and 36ft long.


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

WOW....that sure looks different.... Definitely gonna cut you yard work...


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Did the Tree you cut down get the yard lamp? Looks like it has been whacked out of shape. 


JJ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

What a day, I had help cutting the last two Elm trees in the RR.
But the 2nd one the rope broke.
We had to quickly round up some chains, thankfully to my sons. and pulled the tree down before it fell back onto the car barn.

one branch did hit concrete and steel.










Wayne was coming down from the club to help anyway. Little did he know what he was in for.









Thats it Wayne, nice and tall for burning.

And I had planned to rebuild the CM building.
the bridges are still there.










the weight of the back treeheaded alittle to much easterly. Its was to fall about where Max is laying. ( he was locked up in the shop during cutting)

To answer JJ below, this is next winters fire wood.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Hey Marty 

Looks clean. No more leaves and twigs stuck in the Track and switches. 

What did you do with all the wood?

You do have a wood burning stove?

JJ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Wayne and I talked about 8 different spots that are level for putting up picnic table covers for shade for folks who visit. 
He also told me how he really thought they lost me to 1" scale. I did not mean to come across like that but I do have to get focused in order to get things done. 
Thats the only reason I am still in busness, staying focused on our customers when they need me. (our services) 
I have been known for running my GRR like a busness to get things done.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty... Question. did you cover any of the tracks with boards? I'm not sure what to do with my track to protect them. To hard to move the tracks and have a few steel 5 foot bridges right under where we are going to trim in the next few days.. Been trying to swing them over the layout, but can't cut off enough off to the ends to get the wt. down before lowing them. Some of the Pine tree limbs still around 200 lbs or more. 
Once we get the ends off then no problem lowering short logs down by ropes. Just a little hard up over the layout 30 to 40 ft in the air. 
We like you... wanted shade and now we are paying for it.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I used 4 X 8 1/2 " OSB board to spread the weight out and so the limbs would not catch the track. But your way is best.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

With all that shade gone, plants you had there may not be able to take all the sun and you will get rampant weed growth as they get more sun. So, you've solved your twig problem, but have a new big problem to contend with. So, lots of new planting to go on. Better get Kidman's to bring down a trailer of ground covers, but you'd have to water that and you don't water the railroad, as I recall. So, maybe rocks/desert type look?


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Ohhhh, the humanity!!!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Well thanks Jerry, you make me feel like I should go over to ,,Live steam and stay with that loop.


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## R Snyder (May 12, 2009)

Did Marty say he's going over to "live steam"?


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By R Snyder on 20 Feb 2013 06:25 PM 
Did Marty say he's going over to "live steam"? 

He just may have "seen the light". 
Come to the Light, Marty. You will not regret it!


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Best way to cut back on Yard work......Concrete in large quantities. AstroTurf.... Green paint 


JJ


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,
Can't believe how different it looks. It will pay off though. I have been using Preen applied with a hand lawn fertilizer spreader to stop seed germination. I spray existing weeds with a lawn weed killer or Roundup,depending on where it is used. Main thing with weeds is never never let them mature and drop seeds. You have to break the seed cycle. I don't think you have moss where you are located. We have plenty here in the northwest. Once a year I spray the track right of way with a walkway type moss killer. Prototypically browns the moss like a work train equipped with a sprayer had passed through. Looks just like dead low vegetation in photos.
As I post this it looks like you are getting some nasty weather.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

As of tonight main 1 is fully repaired. 
It was finally warm enough to work w/o gloves.
Main 2 will be going BUT for the new canyon bridge, need to wait till warmer weather to pour concrete footings. 
Sat sounds like in the 50s maybe I can get the auto racks out and video them??


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

need more pics. please 
dick


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

Marty seems like you are looking for a cure all for upkeep on the RR....almost like a fat person looking for that "magic pill", that lets them eat ALL they want and STILL loose weight...it ain't happening!

I think Jerry is correct..you will get weeds, unless you seed heavily with PREEN, early spring, mid summer and early fall....I do this and have no weed problem, I don't and I get those UGLY small octipus looking weeds that run rampant, without Preen.....for me a big container of Preen lasts all season, for you it is going to be expensive, because if you go cheap you will get those ugly little plants...that just for some of the weeds, the just as UGLY crab grass will take something else......

The heat is going to be almost umbarrablely hot in the direct sun...lifes a trade off buddy........there is no cyre all for keeping the RR looking good....

I most times wish I had your huge layout...untill it comes to keeping it clean....

Bubba


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Bubba, if your not busy Sat , lets run trains..


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I would, I need to......but like always I am on call!

Bubba


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Marty - you seem to be finding the light in the tunnel - that is the end of the tunnel !! ha.. 

do you fore see running trains in Sept. yet?!! ........ just curious!!! 

Got a Wife that wants a road trip and a vacation then!! 

THX - Dirk


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Dirk 
yes to Sept, more simple two day open house.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

So nice to have a few evenings to work on trains again. 

The Highline Bridge will go back in as it was, BUT I am looking for a USED 35" GMM guider section. 
My damaged 12" can be replaced by cutting it from the damaged 35" section. 
Heres the bridge 


















Not the photo I was looking for but!!!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

On going battle of sticks and leaves is done.

I ran across this photo in my MLS Gold room files.
Before there was a track layed.










That is the current train shop building before it was cleaned out.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Things have sure changed, Marty...


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I was able to save 25" of one 35" unit and cut off bad handrails which saved enough inches of catwalk w/o railings to cover it. 
All is not lost, just changed alittle. 
the above 25" will be used in a future project. 
Thanks also,
I have a 36" unit coming and I think? just enough catwalks from what I had stocked up on to do the full length. 
I will paint the railings white tonight so they will be dry in a week when the guider comes.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow Marty, has been some big changes on the place!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Well JJ is going to town so I better get moving to. 
I have the Highline Bridge gurders back in and up. 
Got the snow and tunnels cleared. 
Batteries on chargers and hoping to run a train after work tomorrow. 
Sticks all picked up on that line.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

See Marty, Ya just needed a little heat - out doors!! Like the rest of US!! 

...Time for work parties now guys!!! 

Dirk


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I got home early and headed right out to install catwalks and i came up 12" short of ones with railings from finishing. 
. I will have to do more looking around i guess.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Well started off alittle sad. My lead unit would not link. Then the 2nd unit kicked out because of too heavy of train. 
So this is whats left.

I was very disoppointed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0mkYS0uj1Q&feature=player_detailpage


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh,[email protected]! And you lost your caboose TOO!!









Better luck on the next run, 
David Meashey








P.S. I'd better admit to being a garden railroad Luddite before somebody else points it out!


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Sure great to see you running trains Marty.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Caboose??? Thats what I was missing!!! 
I picked up about 137 sticks off the main 1, track was in good shape. I have two switch machines that got stepped on sometime. They need fixed. 
Even ran the 1" around twice. it just cruches the sticks. 
I installed two super recievers and hope to test it this weekend for better pulling power. 
I have been sooo looking forward to a long train.. tomorrow night I may try the MRLs and see how they do. 
The ground is mushy tho.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, were you running the 15 amp Trackside receiver?


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty 

Get that coal drag out. I want to see all those coal cars.


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## HaBi Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Jerry made a really good comment a few posts back, that taking the trees out will change what types of plants will do best on your layout. Especially since it faces west for the hot afternoon sun, along with all of the rocks and cement retaining walls that will soak up the heat, there will be higher temperatures and lower humidity. May be a little windier, too. All of that adds up to less of mountain/pines and more of lower growing/more desert like. May need to water some for any grass to survive. Zoysa grass would do well if you regularly keep it in check with Roundup. The disadvantage with zoysa here is that it doesn't green up until May and browns up by September/October. Also that it can "escape" into other parts of your yard and then you can't get rid of it. But it's tough, can take a lot of traffic, and is so thick it smothers out everything else. 

On the good side, with the trees gone the snow will melt a lot quicker and it will dry out quicker after a rain. 

the other Rodney


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## jake3404 (Dec 3, 2010)

Having never been to Marty's, I couldn't help noticing no clickty-clack. Did you put down ribbon rail?


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

I put down some Preen yesterday, cleaned the pond filter today.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Highline bridge is all back together and the last 12" is coming.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 28 Mar 2013 02:29 PM 
Highline bridge is all back together and the last 12" is coming.









Everyone wants to know........did you get the last 12 inches of catwalk from Charles Ro?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Gary,,NO 
lets just say from the great ,creator...


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 28 Mar 2013 06:07 PM 
Gary,,NO 
lets just say from the great ,creator... 

JJ?


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Paul


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