# Points, sidings and power... HELP



## ashleymarkcharles (Feb 5, 2013)

Hi all...

I'm new to large scale and have selected PIKO G track (mainly because I like the look!)

Looks aside, how do I cut the power to my sidings and loops so that I can run two trains without the other moving...

After quite a few hours and phone calls to various shops, I'm even more confused... What are/How do I use insulated rail joiners? Do I need complicated wiring and motors? One guy I asked said I can remove something on the underside of the points and it will operate like a OO gauge point. Has anyone does this? Even better, can anyone direct me to a picture/diagram of how this is done? 

Thank you

AMC


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

DO NOT CUT OR REMOVE ANYTHING ON THE UNDER SIDE OF THE POINTS (SWITCH)!!! There are several things that you can do. First check with a large scale track dealer an see if they have LGB 1015U track sections. These are about 6" long and one side had a gap in the rail. there is a small circuit board in the track. These can be used to bring in wires for power or you can build a small jumper with a switch (power) or plugs. Another option is to use insulated rail joiners. Remove the brass rail joiner and replace it with an insulated one. Split-Jay and Hillman both make them. This option will require power to be applied somewhere to the siding. I use both options.

I do not know if Piko makes track units similar to the 1015U. There may be a new number for the 1015U as most LGB numbers are 5 digits, so it may be something like 10150U, not sure. 

You might be able to find them on EBAY.


Chuck.
.
1015U 

http://www.railclamp.com/index.php



Hillman rail clamps


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Maybe there is a way to do power routing with Piko switches? 

Greg


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## Joe Mascitti (Oct 30, 2008)

Hi Ashley, 

If you are just starting out, you may consider a DCC system like using the QSI decoders which work with just about all locomotives. QSI comes with sound. Then you can have independent control of each train without any fancy track wiring. Better to go that route now, than after you accumulate a dozen or so locomotives and then have to buy all the decoders.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd agree with Joe. If you are doing this outside, now you will need extra wiring to control the power to the sidings, and this is just another area of maintenance. 

Greg


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

You can get insulated rail joiners as others have indicated, or LGB plastic joiners, or just cut one rail through and put a small plastic piece to keep the rails from rubbing themselves. But to run trains on that section, you'll need to provide power, just as in smaller scales. And you'll need a toggle switch to turn the power back on when you need it. You really only need to cut one rail, and the wiring need be no more than a jumper from another spot on the RR, with the toggle out by the track. Not complex. just tackle one thing at a time. If you need more help, drop me a line.


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## iaviksfan (Dec 27, 2007)

There is always Battery R/C you could go with. 
Greg R.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Since he asked about power on the rails, I did not suggest battery power, or steam power, or raising aardvarks, or string theory. 

Why suggest battery if he's asking about power to the rails? 

Greg


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## rpc7271 (Jan 2, 2008)

Skip all that and just convert to all battery power! No wiring EVER!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By rpc7271 on 05 Feb 2013 04:26 PM 
Skip all that and just convert to all battery power! No wiring EVER!


All engines can "self-wire" themselves for batteries? Amazing!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

OK battery guys, you have earned one free idiotic comment on the next battery thread. No charge. Congratulations. 

Greg


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## Jethro J. (Apr 4, 2012)

Posted By rpc7271 on 05 Feb 2013 04:26 PM 
Skip all that and just convert to all battery power! No wiring EVER!

Yea, and look how well that worked out for the 787"s









J.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Insulated joiners are cheap and easy, but block wiring can get complicated. Just to stop a loco on a siding you need to break one rail and have a single pole switch to turn it on. Just about as simple as it gets.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

I would not use the expensive 1015 LGB isolators or even the plastic joiners (LGB fades to white outdoors). 

It is much easier to cut the wire under the switch when first installing said switch, isolation method is hidden. Even for DCC this can be useful for storage of passenger cars, lights can be turned off when siding is off. Otherwise, cutting the tail and inserting plastic works for me (old piece of credit card works here).


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

Posted By Dan Pierce on 06 Feb 2013 04:38 AM 
It is much easier to cut the wire under the switch when first installing said switch, isolation method is hidden. 

i disagree. specially for beginners. if there is a chance, that you might redesign your layout later, you might have to weld a cut of connection under a turnout back again. (i had some nasty results from that) take off one of the original connectors, and put either a bought isolated clamp/connector, or make one yourself.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 05 Feb 2013 07:51 PM 
OK battery guys, you have earned one free idiotic comment on the next battery thread. No charge. Congratulations. 

Greg 
O Thank God somebody is keeping track of that! We look forward for your tit for tat!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Empty threat in reality... I'd be lowering myself.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Aw Shucks!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Korsmen, does not look hidden which I prefer and a lot more work. 
I always power the siding when selected in case I run an engine in it, and I can just splice the wires together when removing the on-off switch.


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## ashleymarkcharles (Feb 5, 2013)

Thanks for your time and all your responses... 

Seems going DCC or battery is the way to go! Though will have to look for someone who can provide this service in the UK as converting my locos and knowing the accessories to purchase are bit out of my experience realm. 

My locos are currently Bachmann Large Thomas, Percy and James... By any chance has anybody converted one of these to RC or DCC?


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Thomas is easy. They are very basic. It would be a good one to start with, two wires in two wires out to the motor.


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

For the 3 bachmann engines listed, I did DCC on all 3. All of the ones I did had a NMRA/G switch and this is where you can separate the track power from the motor power as it is separated by the switch already. 
I drilled holes in the lights and added LED's. I even placed engineer figures in the cabs. 

Hardest part was speaker selection and placement. 

I added LED light strips to the passenger cars too.


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