# Battling the oxidation



## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

So while I've had my Aristo 0-4-0 starter set on the ground since 2006, I only recently stopped lurking here and had my first post here (with photos!)


http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...umid/23/postid/101364/view/topic/Default.aspx 


What can I say, I'm slow and not particularly handy. Definitely a beginner after three years.


After I immodestly stated I'd had little trouble with my stainless track, a few days later everything got buggy. Stalls, Basic TE not responsive, etc. I had previously ordered some metal wheels for the two carriages and installed them yesterday. Likely related to using the thing more.


Close examination of the track and 0-4-0 wheels revealed serious crud. So this morning I had time to use some medium grit sandpaper on the track, followed by some household oil wiped off with paper towels. (Luckily this is a very small oval.) I also cleaned the locomotive wheels and the once-used metal carriage wheels.


This evening the Headmistress returned with the Sproutling Engineer (age 9 and very cute) with a menagerie of non-scale plastic animals for the layout (that cow is about 10,000 pounds!) 

We ran the train for about two hours, and it was working like new. Obviously one aspect is that with a short oval, the engine is returning to the same spot about every thirty seconds at a medium slow pace. Lots of chances for oxidation.

And that's what I believe happened. I had cleaned the track, the locomotive wheels and the one-day old carriage wheels quite thoroughly this morning. Near dusk, the locomotive started slipping on a slight incline in a curve, so I wiped my finger across the track and it came back black as coal.


Obviously the use of oil could have played a role in the slipping, as suggested by Mr. George Schreyer at his track cleaning tips page.

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips2/track_cleaning_tips.html

Since I have the small layout, I grabbed a Swiffer and stuck a paper towel in it, and removed some black stuff before dark rather easily. Still, I'm rather surprised at how much oxidation occurred, as I've always assumed the plastic wheels were partly to blame. At least tonight I'm convinced most of the black stuff was oxidation. I'm also intrigued by George's theory that dust plays a role. Since my little oval is irrigated it would be trivial to turn the sprinkler on an hour ahead of play time to reduce dust on the rails.


I finished this evening by letting the sprinklers run on the oval, as the plants needed water and it will likely dispense with the small amount of lightweight household oil on the track.

The good news is the train actually ran quite well with the metal wheels, and Sproutling had a grand old time. I'm thinking it might be SOP to just Swiffer the track after running with a paper towel attached, which would at least grab some powdery stuff, and clean the wheels once a week or as warranted.

Best to all.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

As far as I can tell, the need to clean track is heavily dependent on the local environment. I notice really big differences between how much I have to clean in Spring vs summer, for example. I have about half stainless and half brass, and I notice that in the spring, the stainless is no better than the brass. But last fall, the stainless was WAY better. I have no idea why. Could be pollen on the track? Could be trees and plants giving off sap? Could be the humidity? I just notice significant variations based on the seasons.


In my experience it's really really easy to eliminate the problem you're having--just get an aristo track cleaning car. I run the car around a few times and that takes care of it. If I run the trains for an hour or so then I will usually run the track cleaner around a few times again. Just stick it on the end of a train. It's very effective, it's easy, and it's not expensive. Sometimes I wipe the pad on the track cleaning car with laquer thinner, to clean it, but otherwise it's really maintenance free


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

The worst thing you can use on track is sand paper. It scores the track surface and makes it easier for dirt to accumulate. If you use kerosene to clean your track it will also eliminate the oxication worries. It works for any scale.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

It's highly doubtful you have oxidizing stainless. There are a few chemicals that can affect stainless, like chlorine, but it's really rare. 

What I believe is more likely is your 0-4-0... for many years they had a terrible plating that came off quickly and then the metal underneath oxidized very quickly and helped make crud everywhere. There's lot of data on this, and your 0-4-0 from 2006 may be in that group of earlier ones with the "bad" wheels. 

Definitely do not use oil, even kerosene is a bit oily (we used to leave a jar lid of it in grandfather clocks to lubricate them). 

ANY track can get covered with crud, like dust, dirt, pollen, sap... but stainless will not oxidize like brass. I have part of my layout that gets hit with sprinklers every other day. That part is always clean. The rest of the track needs a once around with a piece of scotchbrite to get dust, dirt, bugs off the rails. 

Regards, Greg


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

Could be the old wheels. George Schreyer's tips page describes it here
The old wheels are a chemically blackened casting with a high copper content (probably a bronze). I do not know the composition of the new wheels, but they appear to be anodized instead of blackened. The old wheels, especially the spokes are flat black in color. The new wheels are dark gray brown with a moderate sheen. 


To my eye my 0-4-0 wheels look like the new ones. Maybe I'll snap a photo tonight, after picking up a green Scotch Brite pad.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

White Dear, 
Welcome to the forums. 
I had a similar starter set, first as Greg states they had bad wheels, I replaced mine. 

Not all Stainless track from China is equal, out of say a hundred sections of track, I have 3 sections that slow the trains noticably, one leads into a curve and acts as a natural brake, but the other two aren't as easy to overlook. I have noticed that the bad track is darker in color than the true Stainless. I think our residue is from carbon arcing. Yes a firm finger rub of a rail will show black, I tried the 
'snake' oil (smoke) as suggested, great if you want to see drivers spin, but I'll never repeat that! 

I've posted several times about the 'bad track' yet no one has ever responded to it...... yet we know it does exist! For me it's just another nudge to get off track power and go R/C batteries, which is underway... 

One fix I tried was to glue small pieces of scothbrite to the frame to act as track and wheel wipers, worked great until I ran it over wet track and water wicked up into the motor.....killed it! 

I would suggest using an electrical contact cleaner spray prior to running using a scotchbrite pad as the cleaner alone won't lift the dirt away. The scotchbrite will polish more than sand the railtops. Scratches in the railtops will agrevate arcing...by reducing the contact area. 

Good luck and keep us posted, there is a lot of good knowledge here and most are happy to share. 

John


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Here in GA the first few months of spring are the worst for track. Very heavy amounts of pollen get up in the morning a your car has turned yellow from the stuff. A quick run of my rack cleaning car over my SS track will take care of it. Also spraying of the track with water does it good also to get rid of dust. Friend of mine does it after several weeks of non operating. Works good for him. The plastic wheels you had where also part of the problem. Later RJD


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

I tend to agree that most convenient solution for me will be the Aristo track cleaning car.

But---put down your coffee and carbonated beverages, everyone----

_I'm not spending any more money on this hobby right now. _

Really. I'm just not going to--oooh, look, shiny and new.....okay, next order maybe.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You don't need to sand off any oxidation, just remove the surface crud on SS.

The Aristo car is a big eraser that has no way to "remove" the gunk it encounters other than to build up on the rubber pad.

I prefer scotchbrite, whose open weave does a better job of collecting the gunk and getting it away from the rails:










You might be interested on my page on track cleaning cars:

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/track-cleaning-mainmenu-272 



Regards, Greg


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

Scotch Brite it is, definitely going to pick that up.

Very informative page, Greg, this is what's so great about you folks helping others out. I look forward to checking out more of your web site. 

I see what you mean about smearing. I also see how easy it is to convince myself of something that may not be true. Perhaps it's possible for oxidation to be occurring only on the locomotive wheels rather than the rail, and then it is spread around by running? In the end I guess it doesn't matter, some cleaning of track is required anyhow it seems.


My best guess at this point is that as whatever plastic wheel gunk I missed goes away over time using metal carriage wheels, things will improve with some cleaning of the wheels on both the locomotive and carriages. Because I used household oil as a solvent it could have all just become one black goo. So last night's run time was a cleaning session, with giant animals galloping around. Still fun.


Period cleaning with Scotch-Brite will not be a huge problem for me at this time. As someone said in my first thread, small is beautiful!



Anyway, I know you all have covered this topic a lot and I thank you all for your time and input. Happy running!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

You can get a "Sanding pole" from Home depot, and clip a piece of scotchbrite (I like the maroon colored stuff) to it, and you have an inexpensive cleaner for yourself in a couple of minutes. 

If you have deposits from the plastic wheels, they will "Go away" after time, but it's definitely possible that it has spread around. The 0-4-0 is notorious for having wheels that gunk up. 

Hope this helps, 

Greg


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

We have all brass at the Chicago Botanic. Even then, a scotchbright pad is about all we need. It's more of a problem when the weather is wet as the black powder turns to goop and all sorts of dirt splashes onto the rail. 

I had stainless in the shop. The only place I had to clean it was were I'd slop water on it filling the stream. 

I used to clean my 0-4-0 wheels with a "polishing" sponge in my dremel. Now I run on batteries and don't care what the wheels or track look like.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used a green scotchbright pad on a drywall sanding pole for years. I prefer the green to the maroon. I think that the maroon is a little coarser and may lightly scratch the track. I once took a piece of clean aluminum and buffed it with both the green and maroon. I thought that the maroon caused more minor scratching. Sandpaper no matter what grit size is a big NO NO. It will scratch the track which will lead to more problems. 

You mention that you have a small loop. If the diameter is small (LGB R1 or R2) the black deposit could be metal and plastic from the wheels that is ground off while going around the curve and then spread along the track. Is there more black gunk on the outside rail than the inside rail? 

Stainless steel is much harder that other metals the we usually deal with in our trains. It could be abrading the wheels. 

Chuck N


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## Great Western (Jan 2, 2008)

Like many others when new to the hobby the question of brass track soiling arose. Replacing plastic wheels for metal ones made a considerable difference to running. However, pollen, snail trails, and the many natural outdoor occurences do cause some arcing and this in turn needs to be dealt with before a running session.

Initially, having seen sanding poles and abraders mentioned on the Fora I tried that route: not good. I also saw references to scotchbrite pads: very good.

I support the green scotchbrite clan in their observations. I have been using this method, on a pole, for nearly three years and I am more than pleased with the polishing - opposed to abrading - that is achieved. A side benefit is the shine that is evident in sunshine and in the locos headlights on the rails (very prototypical







)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Chuck, for brass or aluminum, I would not recommend the maroon scotchbrite. 

But he has stainless, (so do I), and it's much harder, and I will guarantee you the maroon does not scratch it! 

My recommendation was specific to the poster of the thread. 

Regards, Greg


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg 

Thanks for the clarification. I was speaking generally and I really wanted to get my paddle in the water on sandpaper. I see it mentioned too many times. 

Chuck


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

Yeah, I'll be avoiding sandpaper, although I didn't really torque on it or anything. But point taken in regards to scratches filling with crud. So in regards to the 0-4-0 wheels, I don't know if anyone can identify whether these are the old type or the new type from these photos, but here they are. I ran across the owner's manual for the starter set today, and it says the wheels are "specially BLACK-plated to insure good electrical conductivity...." I can't find a copyright date but there is an order form for Aristocraft's 1995 60th Anniversary edition in the manual. Of course, I've notice Artistocraft does not seem to update their printed materials very often so I don't know if that's much of a clue. Maybe I got really old stock in 2006 from a store I ordered from?


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

I haven't noticed if the inside rails have more gunk, my impression is that the curves have more, so you may be on to something there.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)




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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

If you are running inside, like under a Christmas tree, be careful if you have a light carpet. Dust from the wheels leaves a mark of all the ties and rails. Trust me, I know of what I speak. 

The dust goes up down and around. 

To clean wheels on engines, I cut the green scotchbright pads into 1/2 inch strips, and use that to clean the gunk off my wheels. 

Chuck


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

My solution: Sock hangers and an LGB flatcar.

A pad is made from a piece of veneer and craft sticks.









And trimmed to fit over the truss rods.









The wooden pad is optional and I usually run without it.

Sock hangers with their top hooks removed,









Fit neatly over the truss rods. Because they are plastic, there is no possibility of a short circuit.









And hold the Scotchbrite pad in place.









And ready for action.









A load of PVC was later placed on the car. I run this in consists under my waterfall where I get lots of dampness and it is hardly visible.


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

That's just ingenious. It would seem you could adjust the pressure by adding or subtracting material, such as your PVC, boards, whatever.


Hmmm... I wonder if that old battery operated Christmas train in the garage would take my extra set of metal wheels on its flat car. Hmmm.

I love the clever and inexpensive ideas.


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## Al McEvoy (Jan 3, 2008)

A relatively simple fix - is to spray CRC 2-26 (find in electrical section of Home Depot /Lowes, etc.) on the wheels and/or on the problematic sections of track. Don't need a lot. Spray on all metal wheels on all rolling stock. Let it run around the loop at slow-to-moderate speed.  Keep a can or two handy.  Repeat as needed.  Minimizes the creation of the black gunk; aids conductivity.


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## Del Tapparo (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By Al McEvoy on 05/30/2009 7:01 PM
A relatively simple fix - is to spray CRC 2-26 (find in electrical section of Home Depot /Lowes, etc.) on the wheels and/or on the problematic sections of track. Don't need a lot. Spray on all metal wheels on all rolling stock. Let it run around the loop at slow-to-moderate speed. Keep a can or two handy. Repeat as needed. Minimizes the creation of the black gunk; aids conductivity.

When I ran track power, I also found CRC to be a good solution. I still use it for my Bachmann Annie drive wheels that squeak on tight curves. Just need to go easy on it if you have grades.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Interesting Al, have you tried this on both brass and stainless? Would like to hear more. 

Regards, Greg


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## ohioriverrailway (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's my current solution. The tank carries nailpolish remover. 















Underneath is a set of the spring loaded cleaning pads that LGB makes/made. Dry wall abrasive screen is glued at the lead edge of the pad. Wipers (the cotton thingies that the dentist stuffs in your mouth.) wick the polish remover from the tank and rub along the rail/rear wheels and pick up the spluge that's left behind. Everything came from the parts box. Cheap, effective and I don't have to follow no stinkin' prototype.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

If the gunk is black, it is probably organic in nature, not oxidation. This could be a result of oils or track cleaning fluids or residue from plastic wheels, although my experience has led me to believe that plastic residue is a hard layer pounded into the rails. 

Oxides of the rail or wheel material are usually brown/gray. SS should have virtually no natural oxide but metal power pickup wheels could be oxidizing in the micro-arcs created that can also lead to wheel pitting. 

I have been using straight abrasive cleaning with drywall pads for years. This has been most effective for me, it leaves a polish behind, not scratches, because the grit is very fine. I need to clean the oxides off the track at least once a month, more often if there has been salt fog (I live near the coast) but at worst, once a week. 

The WORST offender is, however, dust and grit. This will impact any rail material equally and it needs to be swept or washed off somehow. 

Problems with electric power on the track are VERY location and condition dependent, sometimes not a big deal, sometimes a deal killer. You can always to go to battery power to get around most of the contamination but you will still have to deal with the larger stuff and you will have to deal with batteries. 

You will be doing either track maintenance or battery maintenance, you get to name your own poison.


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## Al McEvoy (Jan 3, 2008)

_Posted By Greg Elmassian on 05/30/2009 11:01 PM
Interesting Al, have you tried this on both brass and stainless? Would like to hear more. 

_ _Regards, Greg_  




Greg - I have only tried this on brass track. I have no experience with stainless or other track materials. The first time I saw this, it was on Steve Gugen's layout that has a long (~50 ft) 3% grade and the CRC 2-26 did affect traction for a short while only. He ran a 33-car train with 4 mu Aristo dismals on the front end.  Also ran my unmodified Bachmann 2-8-0 Connie pulling about 8 cars with only slight loss of traction; and my LGB Krok pulling 4 passenger cars without much problem.  On my temporary backyard layout, I had a long ~4 to 5% grade with LGB R5 curves but the CRC (after it worked in and spread out) did not cause excessive slippage with any of my equipment.


Al


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

give everything a good thick coat of cosmoline... no more corrosion (or traction, or electrical contact)!


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

The CRC 2-26 sounds like an interesting product, may have to check it out next time I'm at a big box retailer that sells it.


Since I started this thread, we've run the trains several more nights on the small oval, and I cleaned all the wheels (now all metal) a few times in the mornings. The problem does seem to be improving with time and the use of metal wheels, although I still think there is some kind of electrical-related residue forming. One time I did notice individual black spots of the stuff on the locomotive wheels, which would tend to support the theory that it's a little bit of arcing on the wheels. I've also given the track a quick blast with the sprinklers in the late afternoons, which should reduce some dust.


Frankly with such a small layout if I see a spot I just bend over and wipe it off with a piece of paper towel, if I feel like it at the time. Forgot to buy the Scotch bright pad while shopping (doh!). Ah well, it's not like the kids won't burn through the orange juice in one or two afternoons again.


Fascinating and useful knowledge base here! Good to know as I contemplate about someday expanding the layout, and how to make it closer to bulletproof. Well, better anyhow. I can certainly see why most folks who have longer layouts would use all sorts of interesting methods and devices, very cool.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I just tried it and it caused serious wheel slippage on my layout--to the point where my bachmann "annie" could not make it up the grade. Hope it doesn't last too long


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Lownote: 

The first time used "Rail Zip", a conducting liquid, I followed the directions. Something like a couple of drops every couple of feet around the layout. Nothing ran, I had nothing but wheels spinning. I had to put a cloth on my drywall sander and clean the track. I still use "Rail Zip", but much more carefully. Occasionally I will put a bead about 1/2 inch long on the rails at one place. This seems to help keep everything running smoothly. When I have a rail joiner that doesn't conduct as well as it should, I put a couple of drops in and along the joiner. That seems to help. With any grades, use any lubricant very sparingly, otherwise you will have a lot off engines staying in place. 

Maybe our paths will cross this weekend. 

Chuck N


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## GG (Jan 1, 2009)

Brasso on a drywall pole and cloth? 

gg


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

No, brasso is a polish and leaves a residue until wiped off. 

In other scales, people often use some kind of solvent/cleaner that keeps the air off the track surface, thus reducing oxidation, but you still have something on the track that can collect grit, dust, etc. 

Something that works inside a building does not necessarily work outside. Affecting traction is another issue. 

I have found liquids on ALREADY clean track can help, but there does not seem to be a safe liquid that eats oxidation but does not have other bad side effects. 

Regards, Greg


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## GG (Jan 1, 2009)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 06/01/2009 8:58 PM
No, brasso is a polish and leaves a residue until wiped off. 

In other scales, people often use some kind of solvent/cleaner that keeps the air off the track surface, thus reducing oxidation, but you still have something on the track that can collect grit, dust, etc. 

Something that works inside a building does not necessarily work outside. Affecting traction is another issue. 

I have found liquids on ALREADY clean track can help, but there does not seem to be a safe liquid that eats oxidation but does not have other bad side effects. 

Regards, Greg






So be it. apply the kiss theory... a good pole drywall sander per George should do the trick. My brass track has been outside approx 2 weeks now and I see a bit of DCS "skipping" here and there and from what I've learned, the same concept applies to DCC over the track business. 

A light pole drywall work in advance will solve the problem... keep it simple for the linear feet involved here in my case. 


Thanks for the feed back on this.. 

gg


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

After about 45 minutes of continuous running last night the lights on the Aristo 0-4-0 started flickering, and about the time I thought "It's going to just come to a complete stop" it came to a sudden complete stop.

After rather haphazardly wiping off some black stuff from the track, I decided to try a little experiment with WD-40. I sprayed a small amount on a paper towel, and wiped it on the rails in three places around the small oval. I tried to use a very small amount.


After a few trips around the Aristo 0-4-0 was buzzing along with absolutely no flickering or hesitation, and the Basic TE remote was responding better. Obviously I'm only pulling the two Sierra passenger cars with metal wheels, and my inclines are not very steep, so your mileage may vary.


Also, since I have only about 30 linear feet of track total, any mistake can be quickly rectified, so I was just curious to see what effect WD-40 would have. At least in my case, a very small amount seemed to be beneficial. The train ran well until I finally went inside after another 30 minutes or so.


But yeah, pole sander with Scotch Brite seems eminently practical for small layouts. Maybe I'll hit the big box store this weekend...


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

The WD-40 will gum up before other chemicals, one thing that works very well as an anti-oxidant is Wahl clipper "oil", but it's more of a solvent than anything. The CRC stuff mentioned above is apparently one of the better chemicals. Also, AristoCraft smoke fluid works well. 

The problem with all of these chemicals is they have to eventually be removed and re-applied. 

A much closer shot of your wheels would be good, but from what I see, it looks like the characteristic "bronze" type material of the early wheels. Replacing the wheels would probably be your best bet. Do you have other locos, and do they have the same problem? 


Regards, Greg


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

I just tried the CRC 2-26 again, on a long level part. I put a little on the track and ran a train back and forth. It's _extremely _effective at loosening oxidation, but then you have to get it of the rails. I'm counting on one of the violent late afternoon thunderstorms we typically get around here


I use the sanding pole now and then--I had one from some drywall work we were doing. It's still much easier, in my mind, to just run a track cleaning car around. Easier and you are actually running trains while you clean. 



You might find that you have less trouble as the seasons change. Two weeks ago I had to run the track cleaner a lot. Now I barely need it.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

A note on the drywall sander. 

I use the screens for many months or even years until they literally tear off. A new screen is stiff and abrasive. It can scratch the track, use it lightly. After a few uses, it becomes softer and less abrasive, but still works. Old screens don't scratch, they polish.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I also do as George does and works quite well. Later RJD


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

Yeah, I'll see if I can take a close-up of the wheels at some point. What's good for now is Scotch-Brite pad works awesome, and once I get some kind of pole to put it on, I won't even have to get down on the ground.

It makes sense that any substance applied to the track, especially any kind of oil, will eventually leave a residue. I'm willing to live with that for the time being. If and when I get serious about expansion, it will be time to figure out what's up with the wheels.


I just have three cars--the 0-4-0 and the two Sierra passenger cars, now converted to metal wheels. Track has gone up a lot since 2006!



At any rate, the assistant engineer and her friend had a great time last night moving the animals on and off the train, and grazing them in the weeds. So it's all good right now! 


Best to all.


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## jfrank (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Greg Elmassian on 06/02/2009 11:42 AM
The WD-40 will gum up before other chemicals, one thing that works very well as an anti-oxidant is Wahl clipper "oil", but it's more of a solvent than anything. The CRC stuff mentioned above is apparently one of the better chemicals. Also, AristoCraft smoke fluid works well. 

The problem with all of these chemicals is they have to eventually be removed and re-applied. 

A much closer shot of your wheels would be good, but from what I see, it looks like the characteristic "bronze" type material of the early wheels. Replacing the wheels would probably be your best bet. Do you have other locos, and do they have the same problem? 


Regards, Greg


I keep telling you guys........kerosene, kerosene, kerosene. It's cheap, you can buy it at any hardware store and it does the job. But, hey, what do I know. Keep trying all these exotic products.


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## GG (Jan 1, 2009)

Got my George special.....looking forward to trying this pole sander out. 

On first inspect and based on the theory it will work well. No chemicals or otherwise as this track is/will be laid in with the "forest".


gg


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Kerosene is not bad, but it still leaves some deposits, and it's not highly purified (the stuff you can buy at the hardware store), since it is either a general purpose cleaner or fuel. I've used it for various reasons, including lubrication and cooling of stone cutting saws. 

I've used it a lot of times for many different things. I don't like the residue it leaves. You can keep applying liquids over and over to avoid residues, I don't like (as stated before) getting "hooked" on applying chemicals to track. 

Regards, Greg


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## steam5 (Jun 22, 2008)

Wahl oil is great. As I haven’t got any track outside yet I can say how good it works outdoors, but indoors on the HO it’s magic. 

I visited an outdoor layout a month ago and they were having pick up troubles, I whipped down to the local hobby shop and they had Wahl oil in stock. I went back and few drops on the track solved most of their issues. I suggested they still wipe down the track (LGB brass) and only use the Wahl oil as a quick fix. 

They had been spraying WD-40 all through the locos making a horrible mess, I wanted them to take it easy on the Wahl oil or they would go through a bottle in no time, when it should almost last a life time (in HO). 

Unfortunately this track has many more issues then just pick up but that’s another story. 

I agree with Greg, don’t get too carried away with chemicals, when you find something that works for you, you’re a winner! There is no 1 answer, eg I know someone who is dead against Wahl oil.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

We can use Wahl oil on Z scale, which is very sensitive to buildup. It's apparently a refined solvent with just a hint of oil... the solvent cleans, the oil keeps oxidation away. Used on hair clippers where lubrication is needed, but too much would have the hair clogging the cutters, and the action of metal on metal leaves the surfaces susceptible to rust. 

Regards, Greg


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

I find certain engines have more problems on the track. Before I run a take a scotch brite pad (green) and run it once around the layout using a swifter broom. Just lay the pad on the track and then the swifter head on top. Works great. My HLW Big John and LGB Porter will run all day with no problems. My HLW Mack will start having problems after a while as well as my HLW woodey. When I had my Big Hauler that also had problems after a while. As soon as I run the pad across the tracks they are fiine again for a while. I am still working on this problem and have not come up with a solution yet.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Sounds like you live where oxidation occurs rapidly. I live in such a place and brass needed cleaning every day (oxidation). Try the bridge masters car with the scotchbrite, about $65, cheap, effective, easy to use. 

Regards, Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I have the same car as Greg and this thing will do a great job of cleaning track. Works so much better than the AC car. Later RJD


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

*Now you tell me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







*


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## Al McEvoy (Jan 3, 2008)

Lownote - I am not surprised that you had some traction problems on grades with the CRC 2-26; that is consistent with what I observed also. But as the compund is worn in / spread around, the traction improves. Yes the product does a very effective job with surface contaminants, but my primary reason for using it as opposed to kerosene or other plain solvents is because of its electrical properties - which are excellent. We want to improve conductivity in our electrical pickups on locos, tenders, passengers cars etc., and from my experience, this compound helps maintain that very well when lightly applied to those pickup wheels and contacts. I can't speak to how well other solvents perform in that regard because I have not tried them.


Al


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

So as we had a bit of a thunderstorm last night, I listened to some Triple A baseball and cleaned the 0-4-0 and two Sierra cars' wheels in the garage. When the rain went away, wiped my 30 feet of track off real quick with the Scotch Brite, so the track was pretty darn clean. 

Ran only the locomotive for about ten passes, then examined the track closely. Definitely new black stuff, almost in a pattern. So logically it could be pollution, the 0-4-0 wheels, dust from my crushed stone ballast, or some combination of things. I should have run enough times around with metal wheels on the passenger cars by now that whatever plastic residue might have remained would be gone. 

Cleaning the track with a swiffer pole and Scotch Brite pad is trivial for me at this point. Would definitely get a cleaning car for substantial lengths of track. 

Since it's so easy to convince myself of what I wish to believe, I wish to believe that WD-40 helps by loosening and thinning out the black stuff. Certainly a stop-gap solution, and I have nothing against kerosene.  Just don't have any kerosene, although I can see why that would likely achieve the same result. 

All good to know in case I ever actually do expand! Decisions decisions...happy running everyone.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Gee Whizz White Deer. 

Keep that up for long enough and you will be a convert to the Battery Mafia before too long.!!!


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By White Deer RR on 06/05/2009 7:02 PM
So as we had a bit of a thunderstorm last night, I listened to some Triple A baseball and cleaned the 0-4-0 and two Sierra cars' wheels in the garage. When the rain went away, wiped my 30 feet of track off real quick with the Scotch Brite, so the track was pretty darn clean. 

Ran only the locomotive for about ten passes, then examined the track closely. Definitely new black stuff, almost in a pattern. So logically it could be pollution, the 0-4-0 wheels, dust from my crushed stone ballast, or some combination of things. I should have run enough times around with metal wheels on the passenger cars by now that whatever plastic residue might have remained would be gone. 

Cleaning the track with a swiffer pole and Scotch Brite pad is trivial for me at this point. Would definitely get a cleaning car for substantial lengths of track. 

Since it's so easy to convince myself of what I wish to believe, I wish to believe that WD-40 helps by loosening and thinning out the black stuff. Certainly a stop-gap solution, and I have nothing against kerosene.  Just don't have any kerosene, although I can see why that would likely achieve the same result. 

All good to know in case I ever actually do expand! Decisions decisions...happy running everyone. 






I use a mixture of WD-40 and Simple Green placed with a scotchbrite pad. The Simple Green emulsifies the WD-40 removing the oilyness. Also, ants don't like Simple Green and will stay off the track for the session.


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## Allan W. Miller (Jan 2, 2008)

I would definitely agree about NOT using sandpaper! That will only add to track problems over time. I don't know about kerosene--never used it on track and don't plan to.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

An interesting point about simple green, do not use on aluminum. Hydrogen embrittlement.

http://www.chinook-helicopter.com/maintenance/issues/cleaners/cleaners.html

Regards, Greg


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