# New wooden trestle



## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

My brother and I have recently finished building a trestle. This loosely represents the Meadow Creek Trestle on the RIo Grande Southern. I will include a few pictures of the build and install.

First, for the construction; The entire bridge was built from redwood 2 x 6 and 2 x 4 boards cut to size on a table saw. We started from the top down, building the deck of ties and guard timbers. I printed a full scale section of the ties and glued a few pieces of scrap wood to hold the parts in place. Then I assembled the 15 sections of ties using Titebond III and some brass screws, and they were allowed to dry. 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51249&d=1524457329

I also printed a full scale template of the stringers that run under the ties. Using some 3M spray glue, we temporarily affixed the stringers to the template. More wood glue and some 23 gauge pin nails hold the ties to the stringers. Stringers were placed in a staggered pattern, so when the deck was complete, it was one solid piece.

http://forums.mylargescale.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51257&d=1524457329

The bents (legs) of the trestle were all cut, machined to length, and assembled separately. After a couple days of dry time, they were installed on the trestle with more nails and glue. Girts run between the bents to help hold them square, and wall braces add extra support. 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51265&d=1524457329

For the installation, custom concrete footers were cast for each individual bent. Wire screen was added inside the molds before pouring, and 12 inch rebar was set in the wet concrete for support in the ground. The trestle was temporarily set in place and steaks were buried to mark for the footers. The trestle was then removed and the footers buried to height. The bridge was then replaced on the footers, and some fine tune work was done to get the trestle set right. Then everything was watered down to help settle the ground. A few days later, some readjusting for the ground shift, and she is ready for some trains.

http://forums.mylargescale.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51241&d=1524457329
http://forums.mylargescale.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51273&d=1524457329

There are somewhere near 500 boards on this trestle, as well as about 1,300 spikes 1,000 pin nails, and around 200 screws. It is 10 feet in length and about 30 inches high. My land has a natural slope, so this bridge was a requirement for natural drainage through the lifted ROW.


----------



## Scottychaos (Jan 2, 2008)

Casey,
wow, that is beautiful! nicely done.








I will need to build a similar curved trestle for my railroad, probably next year, so your post will definately be helpful with that..
thanks!
Scot


----------



## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Very nice!


----------



## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking trestle! Those footings should hold it in place for a long time. Keep posting as you continue building you layout. I think I need to invest in a pin nailer to repair my bridges and trestle.


----------



## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Casey, Great looking Trestle, you have done a very beautiful job.
I love redwood, really weathers great.

Redwood can be ordered via Home Depot, delivered to your home via UPS, 4 - 2x6 x 8ft , the better grade for around 100 bucks delivered. 
Pinners, look for the battery powered 23 gauge pinners, great buy, no need of compressor or hoses. 
convenient, and works great.


----------



## Mike Flea (Apr 8, 2014)

That's beautiful Casey, very well done


----------



## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

Thanks everyone for the good words! 

Denray; Thanks for the tip on wood and battery pin nailers. Any specific brands on the nail guns? I think the Ryobi set has one and I considered getting one.

When I get a little more time, I will start a thread on how we build our tracks and road bed. Our first rails were laid about 6 years ago, and have had very little work and maintenance. The biggest problems we have are my 60lb Husky (Mikado) and 100lb German Shepard (Coal)!! They love to "inspect" the track, and it seems every time they do, I have a kink to fix...

Casey


----------



## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Dennis, Thank for the tip on battery powered pinners. I'll have to look for them. I didn't notice if you were using them at your clinic in Tulsa.


----------



## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

I use air pinners, I have 8 of them, so I can teach clinics mostly for our Club members,
I have a friend that bought a ryobi he really likes it.
Dennis


----------



## Casey Akin (Apr 4, 2018)

*Update from today*

We pulled the bridge a week ago for an important reason. On an earlier thread in this forum, another member built a very nice trestle. Some of the comments suggested that wood on concrete was a recipe for disaster. Concrete can retain water, and cause the bottoms of the bents to rot quickly. 

We added polystyrene spacers on the bottoms of all bents using a newly found (from this forum) Lexel caulk. after a day or so of drying time, we reinstalled the bridge today. I am sorry but I don't have any pics of this process, but it is fairly straight forward and I am sure you can imagine it. 

The spacers should prevent a majority of the moisture from continuously penetrating the bents. After a month or two of weathering, we will go back and seal the trestle to prevent further weathering and rot. 

On a side note, I am a new member, but have been lurking for a long time. Like most groups, I see a variety of experience and skill. I hope to be a member that not only learns from others experience, but brings solutions to our problems....

Casey


----------



## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Casey
You have mostly used all heart wood, it will not rot, Redwood setting on concrete, and dirt does not hold moisture to the wood for extended periods of time, it will not rot. Wood setting into wet cement and then cement dries, that has created a little pond for the wood to set in, promoting Rot.If setting fence post or even trestle bents in concrete, set the bottom 1-4" of the wood be in the dirt, then pour cement into the hole. 
When pouring wet cement around wood, it will dry away from the wood, leaving a small opening between wood and the cement. Set the post in the hole and pour dry sackrete in the hole and cover the top with dirt. Let the cement draw moisture from the dirt, it will start setting up on the outside and work its way to the post. inside setting up from hours to days later, it will not shrink away from the wood because the outside has already set preventing the cement from moving out. This is the way pole buildings have been built for 40 plus years, and wooden fence post have been set like this for that many years and still stands today.
When sealing or painting wood try not to cover the bottom of the horizontal boards very much, Cracks that do happen in lumber mostly on south and west sides, splits happen from the sun shining on them. Moisture enters the splits and gravity pulls moisture down, and if the bottom is sealed or painted it can prevent the moisture from leaving causing massive rot. Sealer is not as bad as paint, Stain will not cause this problem either. 
Dennis


----------

