# Bachmann Loco Issue



## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Greetings one and all! Of course I'm a n00b and this is my first post. I tried to use the search engine to see if there was a thread related to my question but didn't find anything. I have a Bachmann G scale Night Before Christmas set I bought during the holidays around 6 years ago. I am using a Crest power supply and the Crest Engineer 2 piece set.

I sent the Engineer back to Crest and they sent it back saying it was fine.

The power supply seems fine.

Here's the issue. For two Christmases now, I put the set under the tree, using Aristocraft brass track with brass couplers (all quality stuff, good connections and power even around the small 6 ft layout). After the train goes about 10 laps it just dies....stops dead in its tracks (no pun intended, well, maybe a little!)

Since I can replicate the issue time and time again I assumed it was a computer/digital thing so I sent the Engineer back, with Crest telling me it's fine.

Is it possible this lower end Bachmann engine has some kind of fault that after it heats up or reaches a certain point just dies? After I turn the power supply and the Engineer on and off, I can get the engine to run again but after about 10 laps, same thing. I've ordered a new loco and it should arrive in about a week so I will test it, and maybe I'll have an answer if the new loco does the same thing. Otherwise, is this a known issue with these Bachmann locos? Hoping to get an answer so I can get whatever is wrong with it repaired so I have everything running, with a new backup loco, in time for Xmas!

Thanks and looking forward to learning more and more since I plan on moving my stuff to the backyard!!!

Ken ;-)


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Well, the easiest thing is to try another loco... but an alternative is that when the loco just dies, put a voltmeter on the tracks. 

No voltage: Crest is broke 
Voltage but train not running: Train is broke 

Greg


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks Greg for the fast reply! I think I did put a volt meter on the tracks and because the train was running slow there wasn't any measurable voltage and of course I pressed stop on the remote. I think sometimes the voltage was there and other times it wasn't. When I told Crest that and sent it back they sent it back to me and said it was fine. Is it possible if the loco has some sort of issue it would cause some kinda feedback to basically put the Engineer in stop or standby, hence no voltage on the meter during a stop? I guess I should do it right and put the meter on while the train is running and just watch and wait to see what it does when the train stops. But I was just wondering, since I don't know much about how these locos actually work (other than a DC motor!) if the loco itself can do things to the controller unit (like the Engineer) that cause it to stop, maybe like a safety circuit thing to prevent any kind of weird discharge, say, a train partially derailed and different contact points made with the track, with the train running full out (max DC power).

K ;-)


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

Which Crest? Is the transmitter orange, black, or silver? 
A picture of all the electronics can help us know which mode you have.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Otherwise, is this a known issue with these Bachmann locos? 
There are plenty of issues with those locos, but I've not heard of your particular problem. Check out George Schreyers Tech Tips for info and identification of which version you have. http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

I tried to use the search engine to see if there was a thread 
The trick is to use a google site-specific search. Try "site:mylargescale.com ten wheeler issues"


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the heads up..I will do more research and post my results once I get the new loco..It's a Rogers 2-4-2 with free caboose!!! K ;-)


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Posted By Dan Pierce on 15 Nov 2012 04:16 AM 
Which Crest? Is the transmitter orange, black, or silver? 
A picture of all the electronics can help us know which mode you have. 

Both the base unit and remote are black like the one pictured here.. 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/crx/crx55470.htm

K ;-)


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

Ken:

What kind of power supply are you feeding into the Train Engineer? Your symptoms sound as if your transformer/power supply is cutting out because of thermal overload. If you are using a power supply from a starter set that may be your problem. They barely have enough power to operate an engine, let alone an engine pulling cars. The Train Engineer has electronics that will add to the load on the power supply.

Also with the TE it is very important that be wired to the power supply correctly, other wise you will blow the fuse in the TE unit.

Chuck


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## Don Gage (Jan 4, 2008)

Ken, 

I'll try the simple approach. Did you clean the track and the locomotive wheels? Do the cars have metal or plastic wheels? Plastic wheels can deposit residue on the tracks. It could be just an issue of conductivity. 
Don


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Chuck and Don: 

I am using the CRE-55460 ULTIMA 10 AMP POWER SUPPLY. Although I have noticed, ever since it was new out of the box, the power needle stays buried to the LEFT and never indicates what amps are going out. I have never noticed it running too hot or cutting out but I guess I better check it as well. The hum and such from it stays consistent so I don't notice it "hiccupping" or sputtering or anything. Can't remember if I ran my meter onto the power supply when the train stops to see if the Engineer is still getting power. 

The loco wheels are metal, as I said, it's the Bachmann Night B4 Xmas set with the green loco. I have thoroughly cleaned the wheels and the track. It's just tough to figure out anything since I am not 100% sure how these devices work, ie: my feedback loop question or other known anomalies with these pieces of equipment or the dreaded multi issue (two or more peices of the equation not working). 

K ;-)


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Ok...talked to Crest Electronics tech support. He suggested all the things you all have, and also to get a staionary roller and time the event to see exactly where it's happening. He also said the power supply is very sensitive and it takes quite a load to move my amp meter needle on the front. He said that it is possible the loco could have some sort of overheat or short and it has enough to send a feedback thru the Train Engineer to shut it or the power supply off. I have never noticed the power supply actually go off, or the Engineer module, but, something must be going on! 

Just thought I'd report here before I go home tonight and start troubleshooting with my trusty multimeter. K ;-)


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

Just finished repairing a Bachmann 2-4-2; one of many over the years. Came away with one thought, fragile. These have never been "good" runners, no pulling power and just spotty performance. 

These were superceded by the 2-6-0 industrial, the one with the metal frame is a good replacement and a nice bit of machinery, much different reaction. 

The 2-4-2 also shares it's drive with the Porters of the same period. 

Two very vulnerable areas are the wheels getting dirty and the pickups failing (if not wires coming loose). 

Try testing the loco on a block of wood with the wheels running free, touch the pilot trucks wheels and the drivers, everything has a pickup, see what works and what doesn't. 

Barry


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## Kenster (Nov 14, 2012)

Posted By BarrysBigTrains on 15 Nov 2012 04:38 PM 
Just finished repairing a Bachmann 2-4-2; one of many over the years. Came away with one thought, fragile. These have never been "good" runners, no pulling power and just spotty performance. 

These were superceded by the 2-6-0 industrial, the one with the metal frame is a good replacement and a nice bit of machinery, much different reaction. 

The 2-4-2 also shares it's drive with the Porters of the same period. 

Two very vulnerable areas are the wheels getting dirty and the pickups failing (if not wires coming loose). 

Try testing the loco on a block of wood with the wheels running free, touch the pilot trucks wheels and the drivers, everything has a pickup, see what works and what doesn't. 

Barry 
Will do Barry. I ordered an Aristo-Craft Rogers 2-4-2. The Bachmann I have is a 4-6-0 I believe. I'm sure the Aristo-Craft will run better than the Bachmann.


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## chuck n (Jan 2, 2008)

One last suggestion. Do you know anyone in your area who has a "G" layout? Either borrow an engine and run it on your layout (no cars, just the engine), or take your engine over to theirs and run on their layout. That should locate the problem. Where do you live? I am sure that someone here on MLS is near you. Chuck


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

A $5 meter from radio shack and measuring the rails is the simplest, easiest, and cheapest way (gas cost money if you want to drive to another layout) 

Since you can reproduce the problem yourself, determine if it's the loco or the power supply. 

Greg


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

My layout has a light bulb installed several feet away from the power feed to the rails in order for me to instantly determine when an engine does not run to find out if it is the engine, or power to the rails. Same for my programming/test station at my work bench. Quicker than getting a meter out.


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

Kenster, 

The 4-6-0 is a whole new ball of wax (or something). Not nearly as fragile as the 2-4-2 from Bachmann and your next experience with Aristo's 2-4-2, although many have had good luck with them, I get the ones that didn't do well. 

Best for the 4-6-0 is George Schreyer's site and go through his steps. The 4-6-0 can be a world beater. I have to look up George's website for you, new reply next. 

Barry


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## BarrysBigTrains (Sep 4, 2008)

Kenster: 

George Schreyer's website is www.girr.org 

Follow it down to 4-6-0, even has reviews and instructions on some of my drives. 

Barry


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