# GP 40 build in 1" scale



## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Can't believe I'm tring this.

I took aristo's GP 40 and started measuring from it and getting basic detail sizes down.
I also down loaded some drawings.
copied a few photos to draw on.
etc.










I used to think, "man, if_ I could only be able to do that"??_ So why not try.
now I wonder how my type did that??

I do have gas to my mig welder, I drilled and worked on steps tonight. But did not have the camera.
Got the fuel tank on also. ( no I did not round the sides) Just angeled them.


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow, this is going to be cool!!!


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Oh boy I think you've officially moved on to the big stuff now! Should be an interesting build. 
Now you have plenty of room to put a gas prime mover, generator, and traction motors in so it can be a real live diesel.... 
Any idea what your going to make the cab and body out of? 
Craig


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Marty, 

""I used to think, "man, if I could only be able to do that"?? 
So why not try. 
now I wonder how my type did that??"" 

So , ...... why not try - 
To bend some 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal into fuel tank sides, and the upper top sides. You could end up carrying fuel in the tank- a scale load... ! 

Man if your gonn'a try - then TRY something new... keep stretching yourself... 

Dirk - DMS Ry


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Is it done yet? 

hahahahaha! 

Are you going to try to power all 4 axles? 

By the way, did you ever find the reason you went into overload on the 15 amp Revo? 

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg
I plan to power all axles.
I really wanted to test the Revo more but this past few weeks the club RR closes for winter and all is packed up. A few take them home to work on them.
Plus an old club memeber just died of cancer.
I've been sharing with them what I am doing but I don't think they are used to that.
Hard for me to be a "wall flower", I told them, winter is as busy as summer in this hobby.
I plan to build a grain elevator for them and a few other structures this winter. Something that will last.

anyway i will let you know when I find out.
They have some locos from St Croix that need rebuilt, I offered to help if they would call me. anything to get my hands dirty.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

You go Marty!!! Glad to see your enthusiasm!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep, good for you. Will be interested to see what you come up for a drive mechanism. 

Sounds like you are no longer going 1-1/2" narrow gauge, but full on standard gauge 1" scale... (you want a manly diesel!!) 

Greg


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

It has to be battery powered that for sure.







. Our F7 is battery and all axles powered. Later RJD


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Battery is the way to go. gas powered sounds like my riding mower.










The only time I have worked with steel is on bridges.
this is very new to me. plus if I weld too late in the evening, even after showering, I smell it all night .
Richard S. is turning my axles down for me. 1/2" in the center to 3/8" to press the wheels on.

I just keep working at it hoping things will work themselves out as i go.
The body will be polystyrene . I plan to access the controls through the lift of center as Aristo has done.
we'll see.

No steam in my future for a long time.

I was working at a customers home today that has been to my house , he is wheel chair bond. We was talking about the different motors etc, some have braking on them. I am looking into that.
Hes a vietnam vet. 
If he gets grumpy i tell him I will take and hide his charger.

Oh those are my air tanks laying on top. and my new 40" steel wheels


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Just by-pass 1" all-together and go for 7 1/2" gage, 1.6"/ft.







Tim Allen train! Home Improvement style. Ugh, ugh!!!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Gary 
I may have said this before, but my goal is to have it in 3 pieces, chassie, battery holder , shell. so I can load and unload by myself. 
Matter of fact I have thought about saling my Hudson (which I have hardly run) to buy more rail for next spring.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

(you want a manly diesel!!) Manly diesel?? _MANLY?!?!?!? _ 
















[/b]


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 21 Nov 2011 08:25 PM 
Gary 
I may have said this before, but my goal is to have it in 3 pieces, chassie, battery holder , shell. so I can load and unload by myself. 
Matter of fact I have thought about saling my Hudson (which I have hardly run) to buy more rail for next spring. 








I hear you Marty! When I first got into the 1 1/2" stuff AND I was a little younger, the "old" guys would say I was getting into the "hernia scale"! I NOW know they were right.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Admittedly I have a relatively small locomotive, but I don't think 1-1/2" scale is all that bad provided you have a wheeled cart and perhaps a lift of some sort (like a motorcycle jack). I roll my cart up to the RAV and roll the loco into it. At GGLS, I back my RAV up to the lift and roll things out. Going home I reverse the process. 

In Marty's case, he may do well to run a spur track right up to the workshop, perhaps with the spur gaining elevation as it goes. Depending on heights, he could either role his loco/rolling stock right into a work track in the shop, or use a motorcycle jack. I'm sure that diesel frame isn't light just as it sits and it isn't even done yet.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty has a new project for the spring time. Engine house, and car shed. By the end of next summer he'll have a loup around the house.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

The club has a lift on site. I have one place I can build a ramp to load my van. I also have lots of metal roofing to build a car barn as Don said. 
I just need to get Don running the loco also. 

I just need to take a brake and clean and sale some cars on e-bay for more $$.


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## R Snyder (May 12, 2009)

This is getting completely out of hand! I'm turning 1" scale axles while I'm working on my new HO/HOn3 railroad and I still have to put the finishing touches on my 1:20.3 Bronson-Tate Colorado Central cars. How many directions are there?


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

This could be taking a scary turn. Thinking of selling his 1/29 Hudson for capital to build 1". Slippery slope. What might be next.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Paul Burch on 22 Nov 2011 08:11 AM 
This could be taking a scary turn. Thinking of selling his 1/29 Hudson for capital to build 1". Slippery slope. What might be next.

Paul,

How about a MLS Bridge in 1" scale!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

How about a MLS Bridge in 1" scale!


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 22 Nov 2011 09:40 AM 
How about a MLS Bridge in 1" scale!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

See , the club says you have to remember guest ride on it. ,,sooo, safety first, railings etc. 
I have been missing my long haul unit trains, may have to run G this weekend. Wife has to work most of the time. 
We are framing a 3 car garage right now, but the siding won't be in till next week. Customers has 3 week notice and can't pick a color till the last minute. 
happenes everytime. 
I hope to start my body shell next few cold days.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,

Are building the body out of the same plastic as you make your G scale? Or you going to use some thing thicker?

Don


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Don 
probably and with an aluminum reforced supports. 
I have one sheet of the .125 left, i may double it . good point..

I have to work today, our family thingy will be on Sat.

I just got two o ld scooter chairs, and top speed is 4 mph. gearing box is all good etc. I'm focusing on the trucks and drive train.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Sounds like you are having fun Marty, keep it up.


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## smcgill (Jan 2, 2008)

Hmm A GP 40 wheel chair you'll be the envy in the rest home when you get there.
Some people build there coffin, but you build your wheel chair!!!Way to go marty!
So the GP 40 Paint???? Hustle Mustle ?
Sean


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, 
How you coming on that GP? Did you get started on the body or you still working on the frame?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Don 
got side tracked with a mound of dirt. see livesteam thread. 
The truck frames are cut, but the guys plazma cutter did a rough job. 
the gears should arrive this week 
Richard got he axles done. 
My job is just getting in the way. 
I also have the next switch started for cold nights. 

I guess I need to get busy.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

What, you don't already have enough to do?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

here it is, way back. its been awhile.

OK, got the garage shop cleaned and built a roll around work bench for the engine.










got the motors ready to mount and the coupler heigth is still right.











the other shop work bench is now freed up to start the body.

once I get this baby running, then full speed ahead.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Fabulous, Marty....









Looks like Max approves..


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm not sure if underside access will be required for your GP-40 Marty (most locomotives do), but you may want to consider a different kind of stand before you get too far and it gets too heavy - one with an open bottom that gives free and easy access to the underside.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, 

I can send you a photo of one of my racks for my ten-wheeler. Let me know.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

yea 
I can cut an access if needed , but the batteries will lift out and the shell will be plastic. 
I hope to make it go by the end of the week before any more work is done on the trucks. I'm worried the gear boxes will be too slow. 
I was hoping for 6o plus MPH. 

Gary
I was going to make an open steel rack but I had all the parts for this. almost free to build.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

little more done, about ready to test it before I go any further.











front


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## Tom Thornton (Nov 18, 2008)

Marty you must never sleep and when you do you must get a few things done anyway. Great job.

Tom Thornton


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I wonder to. 
before the kids came over today I wired it up and used a 110 switch for on/off. turned it on , motors ran wires smoked and switched burned out. 
10sec. now back to plan A with the newer motors and gearing. 

the trucks was way off balance front to back anyway.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I know my little F9 rider is short for 1" scale so I went looking to see how short. 

A real F9 is 54' 8" 

So an F9 in 1" scale should be 54.75 inch long? 

Isn't a GP40 longer than a F9? 

I found 59.02 feet 

From the picture, Marty's GP40 doesn't look to be any longer than 54 inches long if that. 

So Marty, is it really close to 59 inches or is my calculating all wet? 

How wide are you making the GP40? 10 inches?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Marty 

Your next tool to add to your steel working tools is a PLASMA CUTTER. 

Then you can cut out your own steel panels 

JJ


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Marty,

Was the 110V light switch; your typical garden variety switch, if so these are simply not designed for this type of use? How much current or amperage are the trucks rated to consume and at what voltage? Wire gauge is a paramount consideration too...

Michael


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

I would suggest a look at automotive wire gauges. An autoparts store or car audio shop usually has heavy gauge cable that's flexible. For ride on stuffing would suggest using cable rated for about 1.5 to 2 X the current rating on the motors. Lower ratings will have significant losses at full power when accelerating, or going uphill. 

For the switch, possibly a double or triple breaker. Or car battery cutoff switch. Put a diode across it in the opposite direction to reduce the arc.


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Very impressive Marty! 
I don't know where you find the energy for all these projects! 

Alec


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm using Aristo GP40 as my model to measure from.

I know some of the wireing was wrong but I was more releaved becuase of the unballance of the truck with those motors.










with this new motor the truck is almost balanced and she runs nice and quit even with no grease yet.

Now I wait a week for the motor and parts for the other truck.
I want to make the batteries plug in so they can be removed
I just hope the cab nose is high enough after looking at this photo.


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## s-4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice project so far! I worked on a 12 in gauge gp38 a few years back, so I know your concern about the limited front hood space! Converting the front to a High nose GP40....or maybe even a GP40W could be enough to make it work. 

http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?2...HTYPE=SIMPLE&PAGE=1&BOOL=ALL&SEARCHSTRING=378 
http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?2...HTYPE=SIMPLE&PAGE=4&BOOL=ALL&SEARCHSTRING=508


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I just could not wait..

got her wiped down and primered.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

So Marty, does the motor and drive assembly pivot with the truck? 

Looks like you might have clearance issues with the sides of the body with that big gear. 

Greg


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, you better scrap the GP40 idea and put a E8 body on that thing.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OH Greg, your just so encouraging and trusting ......


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

Check out Anderson Power Pole connectors to have plug in batteries. They make a range from 15 amp to 100+ amp 2 pole connectors. I've used 15-45, 60 and 100 amp connectors before. For the larger sizes 60 amp + the handles help in disconnecting.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Jeeze Marty, just ask a question and you take it as a huge negative. 

If you don't allow questions, don't post. 

Greg


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Low voltage and big motors mean high amperage. High amperage means large gauge wire. I would suggest battery cable wire or at least jumper cable size wire. You could also use the power hookup wire for the big car stereo amplifiers. that stuff can handle a lot of amps of power.


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## JPCaputo (Jul 26, 2009)

I've done some robotics that weigh a couple hundred pounds, with probably 30 -40 amp draw easily. I used 4 ga battery / car amp wire, high strand count so it's soft n flexible. I used 60 amp anderson connectors for the battery packs ( 2 small car batteries in a box ) it worked like a charm very easy to swap out packs.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By JPCaputo on 21 Jan 2012 09:35 PM 
I've done some robotics that weigh a couple hundred pounds, with probably 30 -40 amp draw easily. I used 4 ga battery / car amp wire, high strand count so it's soft n flexible. I used 60 amp anderson connectors for the battery packs ( 2 small car batteries in a box ) it worked like a charm very easy to swap out packs. Marty,

My 1.5" Baldwin Electric uses 2-12volt RV deep cycle batteries to power four small motors, in the trucks. the system would go from 12v to 24v, depending on where the controller was "notched". I'm NOT an electrician, so I don't know exactly the size of the wire used to carry the electricity to these trucks, but I believe they might be 4ga, multi-strand. I DO know that when we were hauling a couple of cars with people on board and going up a 2-3% grade at LALS, the engine would pull about 30-35 amps. It would pop the breaker at 40 amps. The loco itself weighs about 300 to 350 lbs.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Good info to know, BTY, I did test clearence right after the motors was mounted before all gears was in place.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Now that did not hurt right? 

Good source for very flexible large copper cable is marine supply, they have super flex wires up to 0000 gauge, the copper strands are much finer. So if the motor does move with the truck, this might be a good idea to keep from possible failure of wires. 

Stiff wires might fracture with the trucks swiveling or put undue pressure on the connections. 

Greg


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Marty, 

Best bet for a flexible cable that will stay flexible over time and carry the current loads you want is to go to a welding shop and get some welding lead. This type of cable has a very durable jacket, but not difficult to work with and is made of MULTIPLE strands of small diameter wire to make for the flexibility. Give that a good look. 

Come to think of it, they might have some short drops for cheap. 


Bob C.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Also, some of the Monster Cable speaker wire is quite flexable with lots of fine wires making up the big cable, it's good stuff, but it might be more expensive than welding cable.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Woow, it has been awhile.
I had many of the sides cut out already, so some is now glued others is taped just to show me how much room and where I can place the controls.
Not much room inside.
Bad weather coming again next week so i plan to work each evening on the shell.










As of right now I am not sure which road name to go with. I keep changing my mind.
I just need it to run first.
LOL.
main shell is .125 (1/8") poly styrene with .040 glued on for doors etc.
the same as I used in 1:29 scale.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Looking good Marty.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

How long is that thing? It looks pretty big!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

about 4.5 ft long

lift out batteries.









plug and play controls, not set yet.










Once the shell is finish I have access from top.










tomorrow will be its test run at the club layout. YEAAAA


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Marty, do you have any way to measure the current draw? 

I gather you are running 24 volts. It will be interesting to see if the Revolution will sustain the current of the motors. 

I think you are running it as I type this. Good luck! 

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

LOOK MOM

NO HANDS

Sunday AM I unloaded ties, then tested the GP with a flat car at the club RR. 
The lead truck wanted to walk up the rail on switches and if I tried to top out the speed on straight away.
Photo 1 running about 30 MPH by the station.
It jumped the switches no matter which way I was going.

Photo 2 the engine ran around my loop ,SHOCKINGLY", 5 times w/o derailing. but that dang tank car kept derailing. It flowed over my switches. {the ones built ,"wrong" } both ways. and even pushed the cars into the hole.
Now going backwards I had my usual 3 spots that derail. 
The SE curve must be inlarged. I'd like to get it up to Johns 40'radious min If I can. My other 3 curves are about 40' min.
So all in all, I'm happy. no fires, no smoke, no slipping.
But no brakes down hill,,yet. I'm looking into bike disc brakes on the large gears.
Greg I want to place an AMP meter in line.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 26 Feb 2012 11:34 AM 








LOOK MOM

NO HANDS

Sunday AM I unloaded ties, then tested the GP with a flat car at the club RR. 
The lead truck wanted to walk up the rail on switches and if I tried to top out the speed on straight away.
Photo 1 running about 30 MPH by the station.
It jumped the switches no matter which way I was going.

Photo 2 the engine ran around my loop ,SHOCKINGLY", 5 times w/o derailing. but that dang tank car kept derailing. It flowed over my switches. {the ones built ,"wrong" } both ways. and even pushed the cars into the hole.
Now going backwards I had my usual 3 spots that derail. 
The SE curve must be inlarged. I'd like to get it up to Johns 40'radious min If I can. My other 3 curves are about 40' min.
So all in all, I'm happy. no fires, no smoke, no slipping.
But no brakes down hill,,yet. I'm looking into bike disc brakes on the large gears.
Greg I want to place an AMP meter in line.









Marty,

It's great to see you have a good inaugural run with your engine and cars.

One thing to remember about trucks on large scale ride-on rolling stock.......the trucks should be very loose and "kinda sloppy". They shound "twist" easy, in other woeds you should be able to lift ONE wheel off the rail (at least 1/2" AND have the remaining three wheels still be in contact with the railhead. I'm just guessing on the 1" stuff, but we always try for 3/4" on the 1 1/2" trucks.

As far as brakes for your cars, I have a good friend here in Southern Cal, who makes air actuated disc brakes for engines and cars, including operational "glad hands". If the car becomes uncoupled, it puts the brakes on automatically. Just like the prototype! I'll give you the link to his business.

http://www.railridersupply.com/

BTW, if you click on the website, clicks photos. Scroll down to LALS photos. There is one single photo of one of his speeders hauling quiye a few folks. Chris Walas as engineer, myself keeping an eye on Chris' first time on the railroad, Jon Corradini. Chris' wife and his two daughters as brake-women! 

I know he only shows 7 1/2" gauge trucks, but he can design stuff for 1" trucks. Everything is NC'ed. Give him a call and tell him who sent you. He and my Dad were were pardners for many years and I worked in their die shop for a long time. You might want to e-mail him with your info. Less costly than a phone call to California.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Great looking ride Marty. 

Paint the GP 40 in Rock Island Rocket Freight scheme and it'll be one fast train.


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## Trains (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good Marty! Need to paint it UP or better yet Mopac Blue.


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## Conrail Mark (Feb 18, 2012)

I vote for Conrail Blue (obviously) but am quite enamoured with SP Kodachrome as well at the moment. I can't wait to see it when it's finished whatever livery you give it. Keep up the great work Marty - you are an inspiration to us mere mortals!


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Wonderful, Marty. Glad to see it runs so well...

Gotta be UP yellow and gray... I already have the decals designed....


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## steamlogger (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, looking good. You could paint it CSX It looks like a Road Slug. 
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=902648 
You would have to make a mother to go with it.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Stan you also have the KCS ones from my 1:29th unit. That is what I am leaning toward.


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## Henson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 26 Feb 2012 05:25 PM 
Stan you also have the KCS ones from my 1:29th unit. That is what I am leaning toward. 

Oh good.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good for you Marty! 

One heck of an accomplishment for a guy completely new to the scale. 

I wonder if you could not "lift" a meter from a battery charger? 

Greg


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

With all that space in the carbody have you considered working dynamic brakes?







A couple of big resistors and a contactor would do the trick.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 26 Feb 2012 05:25 PM 
Stan you also have the KCS ones from my 1:29th unit. That is what I am leaning toward. Can do that too....









Gonna look great with either one....


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Is it done yet? Later RJD


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, TOM, now you got me wondering???? I know If I had used the wermgear boxes it would have slowed and acted like brakes. 

talk to me..... 
Keep in mind I'm a carpenter, I need a drawing and part numbers to follow.


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## bnsfconductor (Jan 3, 2008)

Marty, 
Dynamic brakes work by using the traction motors to generate electricity and then routing it to a huge electric heater. Okay way simplified, but you get the idea. 
So for you to have a working dynamic brake you would have to figure out a way to 'regenerate' electricity from your motor when slowing down or going down a grade. Then once you've figured that out, it becomes a simple manner of 'exhausting' the excess energy. It could either be used to recharge the batteries, or 'dumped' by creating heat through a electric heater (like the prototype), or by using dynamic brake resistor. This is the same technology that is used on hybrid/electric cars to charge the batteries. So I would assume you could 'easily' convert something to work. 

Here's a couple of links for you to help 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_braking 
http://www.ab.com/support/abdrives/documentation/techpapers/RegenOverview01.pdf 
That one includes a couple of diagrams. 

Craig


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

Marty, 

I hope Craig's Allen Bradley link didn't scare you too badly! If your motors are DC permanent magnet type it is much easier than what is shown in that article. Do you have the specs for the motor? The most useful would be the full load amps (FLA) and the armature resistance. For a DC motor you will only need a contactor or large relay to switch the motor from the throttle to the braking resistor. 

If you want to regulate the amount of braking force multiple resistors could be used with a relay to switch them in and out. 

The resistors will get HOT, a fan may be needed to cool them when doing a lot of braking. Just like the prototype. 

Also just like the prototype dynamics will 'fade out' as you drop below a certain speed, you will still need a mechanical brake to bring it to a final stop. However this brake can be much smaller than one required to take up all of the energy if there were no dynamics. 

It is just a matter of how you convert the momentum of the train into heat, dissipate it in the resistors or grab a brake disk with pads and heat it up! 

I'll try to post a sketch this evening.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Just came in. Going to be a noisy stormy night.

Tom, I will follow up later. I'm dead tired now. sorry

Its killing me now to move slow and try,,TRY to do a good job on Boring detail work.










I told Max, I hate this, I wish I could let someone else finish up so I cans tart the next engine.
finding the right stuff. Sand 6 times to make it fit. GOD I hate this part.


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

That is why I have so many unfinished projects. The first 90% is a blast, the last 10% a drag. Tonight I was working on mods to a Sparky I bought at least 5 years ago... 

I guess that is why I like my real job, I get to design it, rough it out and someone else finishes it for me! 

Hang in there, the body looks great.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

OK TOM
I read it through 3 times and I understand, but, I am using the Revo RC for control. Thus I don't think I can use relays, etc. If I had a cord to control like the club has, then it is possible.
they want to get away from cords.
I told them for running of guest I think they need to keep what they have. BUT running along or moving trains would be funner to do RC and be the switchman on the crew.

Today I also had time to grind down some steel and move a center bolt about 3/8" to make the trucks more ballanced and better side to side motion.
This Sat I hope to test it out again.

My sound unit came and I installed it tonight.
Just waiting for my fans and grill work to show up from the USPO.


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## pinewoods (Jan 20, 2009)

Does the Revo RC have any on/off outputs to control things like lights, horns, bells etc?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Tom 
they are VERY thin wires that hook to the phonex board already installed to run bells etc.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Last couple of evenings I got some painting done.
Also got the grills installed with two cooling fans










need to mount the AMP meter yet
sound is all ready.










Hoping to test her out tomorrow.
dumby number boards, head lights not sure on size yet.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Looks like an interesting paint scheme! Those fan shrouds look pretty good!


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

complete drive syteme










lots to do and I found some mistakes, this time.










windows and railings to install.
I need more $$$$ in order to buy enough trucks and couplers that I can pull my whole ,,7 cars.










need to make the truck front (outter) wheels spring /flex better/.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

The engine looks awesome! Great looking train!









You have taken to laegescale ride-on like a duck to water.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

I knew that engine was going to look good!


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## Ron Senek (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty 
What are you using for glue on the plastic. 
Ron


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Ron 
first Plasteruct in orange bottle, then really thick panel adhesive, ( the stuff you glue shower walls up with.) 

this time I did not primer the plastic with plastic primer, I just wiped down with laquar thinner rag. Much happer. and the tape did not wreak any paint. 
Very thin light coats. I warm the body up in front of a heater. 
And yes turn the heater off before painting. 

And, I plan to use small vacum hose for cars around the windows. cut open and glue on. then glue palstic to the inside.

BTY, The REVO has not had any problems nor got more than warm to the touch. It did over load and turn off when the engine jumped a switch and bound up.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

That's good to hear Marty, we all wish you the best success on this loco... I will have to say i am flatly amazed at your progress... you should race dragsters, since you have proven you can go from 0-200 mph pretty darn quick! 

greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Oh and THANKS TO Greg and Mike K for helping me on the AMP meter problem. You both said the same thing right.
BUT

FYI A ride on train club memeber e-mailed me and said those wonderful words,,"this is what I have been using" A 60 amp auto ,center 0 meter. I ordered one today.$16


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## Truthman (Dec 13, 2008)

Marty, great work, very cool. This may have been asked before but is this 1/12 scale? What gauge track does this run on?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

4 and 3/4" track, 5/8" tall


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, it's ain't Rock Island Rocket, but it sure looks great!


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## Truthman (Dec 13, 2008)

Where do you get the rail?


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## trainman707 (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Henson on 26 Feb 2012 05:43 PM 
Posted By NTCGRR on 26 Feb 2012 05:25 PM 
Stan you also have the KCS ones from my 1:29th unit. That is what I am leaning toward. 

Oh good. 



I've been a lurker long enough. This is terriffic! Always impressed with your work. Of course, I'm with Henson on the road name....well of course DRG would be okay as well!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Good deal on the meter Marty, the center off will work with either polarity, solves the issue of how to hook it up, right inline with either motor lead.... 16 bucks is a great deal also. 

I'll be interested to see the current draw.... 

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Greg????? So I should buy a volt meter also??? I thought you wanted AMP reading?? 

LOL 

OH, what the hay, I'll buy both ,then we'll all know. 
I keep wondering how long the batteries will last? I have not kept track of time. 
Once its running ,VERY well. then it will go in circles with a load for hours. 
My circle has a grade, the clubs does not, well maybe just tiny here and there. 

OH Nate
rails is dropped shipped through an Accu. dealer Kidmans is west of MISS river ,RLD is east . I think??

OH #2 
I did recut the rear windows in the cab and filled in the lower spot to make it look right. It was just bugging me.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I think the amp meter is more important than anything, because it will tell you the real load on the motors and battery. 

Also, by noting the "normal" amperage, if it suddenly gets a lot higher, then you know something is wrong. 

The voltmeter won't tell you much, because the batteries will maintain 24 volts until really close to dead. 

I believe you are definitely "on the right track" ! 

Greg


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Got alittle bit done outside today, but I spent most of the afternoon growing the future RR crew.

This is Bella, I have no idea how old she is, maybe 4 mths?? I got to milk her.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Beauty and the Beast?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks RANDY,,,Ya old fart.

well got the head lights in and amp meter pops up if i need it dueing running.
Place the engine in its shed last night.










did not have the cab setting center, Now I just need it to dry up so I can do track work. rained the first 3 days of the week.
But its good for the grass seed.
Sound box is good, not too loud.

funny how after you post a photo ,then you see your mistakes, the red paint line on the nose is not level.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 24 Mar 2012 10:56 AM 
Thanks RANDY,,,Ya old fart.

well got the head lights in and amp meter pops up if i need it dueing running.
Place the engine in its shed last night.










did not have the cab setting center, Now I just need it to dry up so I can do track work. rained the first 3 days of the week.
But its good for the grass seed.
Sound box is good, not too loud.

funny how after you post a photo ,then you see your mistakes, the red paint line on the nose is not level.
Dang that's nice looking! I DO NOT KNOW how you find the time, in a 24-hour day, to get all these projects finished!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

She looks great Marty! Very nice!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Engine shed? What engine shed? I too am impressed by your Speed Modeling and Quality. 
Congrats on Bella. 

John


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

come on Marty, out here in the east we milk the cows and feed the babes 
o and the gp looks great


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## Tom Thornton (Nov 18, 2008)

I don't think Marty sleeps. He get more done than I can even think about. And runs a buisness too.

Tom Thornton


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 24 Mar 2012 03:20 PM 
She looks great Marty! Very nice! WHAT? Dwight actually said a Dismal looks great?


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## rdamurphy (Jan 3, 2008)

Marty, I'm DEFINITELY going to have to plan a trip up to Nebraska to see ya! Looks great! 

Robert


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Posted By rlvette on 26 Mar 2012 11:13 AM 
Posted By Dwight Ennis on 24 Mar 2012 03:20 PM 
She looks great Marty! Very nice! WHAT? Dwight actually said a Dismal looks great?


Somebody had to have hacked into his log in?


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Well now that Marty has a larger scale it will be a lot easier for me to make my track inspection on his RR this year.







Later RJD


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

WHAT? Dwight actually said a Dismal looks great?Shhhhhhhhhhhh......


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## Bryan Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Where the Ditch lights marty?


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Today, Sunday I loaded 4 engine sheds that I built for the club layout, hauled them in my sons truck, was able to put the geep in the back seat w/o the shell. I walked the engine around the layout pulling one of the clubs ride-on cars. 
after the first lap and no derailments I opened her up, maybe about 60 scale mph. not a problem, I was so happy and after i touched the motors and Revo and lightly warm is all. The AMP meter reads in 30 amp 60 ,etc. so its hard to tell. looked like it was 10 amp draw, who knows. 
sorry, no ditch lights yet. 

This is probably the last of this thread. just need to finish out the engine. 
Pulling and run time test will be later. 

my track has gone crazy with this heat today, what a mess. need to make exspanion joints . too small of loop


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 01 Apr 2012 01:00 PM 
Today, Sunday I loaded 4 engine sheds that I built for the club layout, hauled them in my sons truck, was able to put the geep in the back seat w/o the shell. I walked the engine around the layout pulling one of the clubs ride-on cars. 
after the first lap and no derailments I opened her up, maybe about 60 scale mph. not a problem, I was so happy and after i touched the motors and Revo and lightly warm is all. The AMP meter reads in 30 amp 60 ,etc. so its hard to tell. looked like it was 10 amp draw, who knows. 
sorry, no ditch lights yet. 

This is probably the last of this thread. just need to finish out the engine. 
Pulling and run time test will be later. 

my track has gone crazy with this heat today, what a mess. need to make exspanion joints . too small of loop 
Marty,

The 10 amps you are getting is comparable to what I got with my 1.5" Baldwin electric. Also note that as your batteries go down, the amps will increase. Just "tooling around", 10 amps is good. Put a couple of people on and some cars, don't be TOO concerned about 30 amps. You do have a big breaker on this, right? I have a 40 amp fuse on my electric.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm SOOOO tired of the roadbed turning to mush after each rain for a week.

I should have done this in the first place.










CONCRETE ROADBED.


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## livesteam53 (Jan 4, 2008)

WHAT? Dwight actually said a Dismal looks great? 

Dwight have you been drinking to much....LOL


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Just about done with concrete roadbed. smooooth grade and gental curve.









This will be soooo worth it.

I wonder if 30ft rad is too tight to run a ,,,steam engine on it???


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By NTCGRR on 26 Apr 2012 07:39 PM 
Just about done with concrete roadbed. smooooth grade and gental curve.









This will be soooo worth it.

I wonder if 30ft rad is too tight to run a ,,,steam engine on it???


Marty,

L.A. Live Steamers 7.5" gauge mainline is around 65 to 75 foot radius. If you have a 30 foot radius on 1" scale, then yours would be equivalent to about a 45 foot radius in 1.5" scale or 7.25/7.5 gauge. Good enough for most average wheelbase locomotives. Might be a little tight for a 1" Big Boy!


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Railroad Supply specs the minimum radius for my 1.5" scale 4-4-0 as 25'. However, it doesn't look like you have any plans to dual gauge in the near future.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Unless he goes with 1 inch scale 3 foot gauge. 3 inch gauge and 4-3/4 inch gauge.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Wouldn't do me much good either way Amber. hehehe


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I finished installing the last few joiners, no ballast yet. but I let two cars roll from the high side and much slower and they even stopped before the curve was over, so the grade is much better. those same cars used to fly half way up the other side, then roll back. 
Next week ballast and hope ,wearther permiting, I can finish the last 1/3 curve. 

this is it folks, no more adding to this circle. 
Gabby tested the peddle car out now that I shorted the peddle distince. and it worked great for her short legs. no derailments.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By NTCGRR on 29 Apr 2012 04:36 PM 
I finished installing the last few joiners, no ballast yet. but I let two cars roll from the high side and much slower and they even stopped before the curve was over, so the grade is much better. those same cars used to fly half way up the other side, then roll back. 
Next week ballast and hope ,wearther permiting, I can finish the last 1/3 curve. 

this is it folks, no more adding to this circle. 
Gabby tested the peddle car out now that I shorted the peddle distince. and it worked great for her short legs. no derailments. 
No more adding to this circle?









How many times did yo say that when you were building the G scale layout ?









JJ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm giving up on the peddle car and rebuilding it into a small 35" diesel switcher. single motor to pull kids around. 
My Geep runs great on the club's RR, but for pulling power.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

Are you going to make the controls so the kids can run it?


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By Amber on 13 May 2012 11:29 AM 
Are you going to make the controls so the kids can run it?  
Kids.......... 55 and older


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By John J on 18 May 2012 02:44 PM 
Posted By Amber on 13 May 2012 11:29 AM 
Are you going to make the controls so the kids can run it?  
Kids..........  55 and older 









Hey I resemble that remark.


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Just think of all the great damage JJ can do when he crashes one of *THESE!!!*


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm parking my car on the other side of martys house


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## up9018 (Jan 4, 2008)

Holy Cow Dwight, you just gave a hundred people nightmares!!!! I guess it will be the Live Steam guys problem. 

Chris


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dwight Ennis on 18 May 2012 04:16 PM 
Just think of all the great damage JJ can do when he crashes one of *THESE!!!*








Just the thought...... Oy Vey.....











Oh my.... I just remembered that I'll be there tooooooo... {sigh}


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

You all better take out extra insurance.







Later RJD


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## Enginear (Jul 29, 2008)

I do a search for auto carriers to see if anything new has been posted. It brings me here?? So I have to see what Marty's up to now days.
Oh god, I've too many gauges going now! Love the big stuff. Seeing this engine is so cool. I've got to stop somewhere. I'm drawing a line here. Marty, The engine looks great, but.....
I can't go this way. I can't go this way. I can't go this way. I can't go this way....... not another gauge..... I can't go this way.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Posted By rlvette on 18 May 2012 04:18 PM 
I'm parking my car on the other side of martys house 



That won't save you.... My Tel a pathetic powers are getting stronger by the day. Pretty soon I won't have to be in the same county to cause trouble.

JJ


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

After many changes and adjustments to the trucks , its running very well. I even had Eric O. running it today at the club RR. will try to get photos. This winter I want to redesign the shell so the hand rails will come off with it .


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Well took a day off today and hauled some more cars out to the CNWRR club and everything ran very well










Missing my coil car yet.









I just need to make the shell stronger and finish it out this fall.
I think I finally have it figured out.


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Marty.


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,

Nice looking train! You look like you have been doing this ride-on stuff for tears.


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

Boy is Marty getting serious about CNW or what. Now repaint the GP 40 to the Colors







Later RJD


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

She's looking great Marty.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

You know RJ,,, I am going to do what we used to do with Athearn engines, change out the shells to a different road name. I have the colors for C&NW in stock. 
The problem also is that the clubs car barn is running out of room very fast. so who knows how many more I can make for out there.
I was truely happy with the way the engine and RC preformed.
I back 16 cars into the car barn across 3 switches. the other guys are slowly coming to like the RC and me being the engineer and the switchman and not tied to the back of the engine.

Another lady who just bought a used switcher was having problems with their RC airplane controler and the reciever switching off. it did have a Dellee sound unit. which sounded good out there. I think the reciever is too low of amps. could not see who made it. never seen it before.


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## Enginear (Jul 29, 2008)

Love the engine and the cars! Great stuff.


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

My biggest problem is ; How do you talk to the older club members and explain to them that fixing track everytime we go out in order to run is a pain? There has got to be a better way to lay track. I don't care what other clubs do or the 1:1 does. 
From my GRR I know there are ways to cut maintance of roadbed way down. 
In the photos I pick the best spots in the track to make it look good. 
there is other spots that is in full sun all day has is terriable. 
I want to help but some take affence to it. 
I should take photos of the bad track, I mean as in you get off and walk along the train waiting for derailments. let along bring riders over.


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## armorsmith (Jun 1, 2008)

Marty, 

The 7 1/2" at the club I belong to uses 1 1/2" square PVC with a dado milled the width of the base of the rail. The rail is then attached with self tapping screws. I have been a member of the 'G' scale side for 4 years and there has been no track work to speak of since I am a member. 

One option. 

Bob C.


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## Paul Burch (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,
Take a look at this video,kind of long, paying close attention to the track. It was shot at Train Mountain last month. They mass produce their track in the shop in sections and transport it out to where it is needed. Composite ties. I think they have about fifteen real miles of track. I realize you are dealing with a smaller scale but the method might work. There are lots of videos and photos of Train Mountain on the web. Fantastic place,located in southern Oregon. You will like the U.P. streamliner.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBEO...e=youtu.be


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Marty, I hear what you are saying about the "politics" of telling people there is a problem and you want to fix it. 

So, if I read what you wrote correctly, basically you have to do track maintenance every time before a run. 

If you are getting resistance to trying to make it better, maybe the people giving you the resistance are NOT the people who have to repair the track, i.e. the people who are fixing the track each time MUST be tired of this, and those are the people who need to get together to change things for the better. 

Many times there are the "workers" and the "runners" and the "runners" don't feel the pain because they don't help fix stuff. 

Greg


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty,

At Los Angeles Live Steamers, we have "special" work crews for the building and maintenance of ALL trackwork (7 1/2, 4 3/4 and 3 1/2 inch). All track is steel with composite ties and built in 10 foot panels on fixtures. The roadbed is consistent and very trouble free. We have done this for over thirty years this way. Seems to work for us.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice looking train, Marty..... Hope you can get the kinks worked out of the track situation...


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## NTCGRR (Jan 2, 2008)

Did not know where to put this but its the final of this thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Bxg...detailpage

Hope it works.
I almost did not get it spliced together and loaded up. Been a number of years since I did this type of video.

There is sound, but; Thank God there is no country or bandjo music in it.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey, that ain't know Fred on the last car of that train!


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks for posting, kinda neat watching the curve snaking through the train watching from the caboose. 

John


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## placitassteam (Jan 2, 2008)

Marty, That is very cool! I'm jellous but it is a good thing that I don't have enough level ground for a ride-on of any size. Like others have said I can't believe how fast you get things done. Thanks for posting.


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

thank you marty for posting


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