# Question on Buildings Repair



## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

We took all of our building off the layout to put away for the winter and found most need repainting and some just need re-gluing again. I can't remember what glue I use on them or something else that is better to use on them.. I think they are Pola buildings. 

..I know this question somewhere has been asked before, but can't seem to find it.


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## digger (Jan 2, 2008)

You can use tube cement like Testors, but as you've undoubtedly discovered, it can fail after a few seasons in the sun. I prefer silicone for interior joints like roof panels, roof-to-wall joints, and inside corners. I've also been known to use EB-6000, sparingly, to affix exterior details.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

Noel, 

If these are the atypical Pola/Piko buildings comprised of some sort of super-duper plastic matrix, I've read several times (this week) to use a silicone adhesive, goop or something similar. Super glues and such don't fare well with the constant heat cycling the buildings are subject too. I suspect the glues fracture with expansion and contraction. I built several Piko buildings this week; subsequent to building them I looked around for ideas on modifying/kit bashing them and such and found the aforementioned info recommending using a silicone adhesive, figures as I assembled them with the supplied “UHU plast” glue, Tap Plastics Weld On 16 (not sure this was the best glue for this application but it seemed to bond well) and I used some 3M automotive trim adhesive which seemed similar in appearance and viscosity to the Weld On 16 from Tap Plastics. I did note online that Tap has multiple products for various plastics, styrene, acrylics, ABS, PVC and polycarbonates. With all the offerings from Tap I guess I’ll have to experiment in the future, as I’m still looking for the best glue for bashing USA/Bachman/Aristocraft and such rolling stock all of which are comprised of different plastic matrixes (so far I haven’t found anything that worked as well as I’d hoped) Tap also has “E6000” which via their description should work great and is a flexible adhesive as was recommended previously. 

FWIW: it may be useful to allow the buildings to breathe or realize some sort of ventilation. Gable venting or something similar to allow air movement should be a good thing in our climate. 

Michael


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## bvdrr (Jan 3, 2008)

I use Testors liquid cement for plastic models,black diamond shaped container with metal needle. I have used this cement on all my plastic buildings for over 10 yrs without ever having a failure. These builings were out continualy for 10 yrs.


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## DennisB (Jan 2, 2008)

You can use a PVC adhesive or The "Household" type of Amazing Goop. I have both Piko and Pola buildings and find that Amazing Goop works best overall. Regards, Dennis.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Michael Glavin on 29 Dec 2011 03:25 PM 
Noel, 

If these are the atypical Pola/Piko buildings comprised of some sort of super-duper plastic matrix, I've read several times (this week) to use a silicone adhesive, goop or something similar. Super glues and such don't fare well with the constant heat cycling the buildings are subject too. I suspect the glues fracture with expansion and contraction. I built several Piko buildings this week; subsequent to building them I looked around for ideas on modifying/kit bashing them and such and found the aforementioned info recommending using a silicone adhesive, figures as I assembled them with the supplied “UHU plast” glue, Tap Plastics Weld On 16 (not sure this was the best glue for this application but it seemed to bond well) and I used some 3M automotive trim adhesive which seemed similar in appearance and viscosity to the Weld On 16 from Tap Plastics. I did note online that Tap has multiple products for various plastics, styrene, acrylics, ABS, PVC and polycarbonates. With all the offerings from Tap I guess I’ll have to experiment in the future, as I’m still looking for the best glue for bashing USA/Bachman/Aristocraft and such rolling stock all of which are comprised of different plastic matrixes (so far I haven’t found anything that worked as well as I’d hoped) Tap also has “E6000” which via their description should work great and is a flexible adhesive as was recommended previously. 

FWIW: it may be useful to allow the buildings to breathe or realize some sort of ventilation. Gable venting or something similar to allow air movement should be a good thing in our climate. 

Michael
..........................................................................................................

Hi Guys..
Well I took the roof from the Eng. house to taps and we tried a few sample. E6000 pulled apart and some other stuff they had. The guy said the pieces I has, had to much oil in it or something that reject anything to penetrate it.. I tried PVC stuff, Tester plastic and they don't touch it either. Liq.steel held for a few months. Silicon peels back off in time.. Walters goo held for some time, but ya came off after it dried out. 
I haven't tried ABS weld yet.. 
Wonder what Pola used.. I built some of there kits and can't remember what type of glue it was, but you can see it didn't hold up either after 5 or more yr's.

Howard Maculsay came up with one idea, was to peg them or screw them together to help hold the gluing. 
I wanted to do like Michael Glvian wants, maybe do some kit bash on some older buildings. But until we find something that can take the weather and sunny boy, guess we are still looking. 

You can see the building loosing it colors.. The Farm house has two pink side, one white and org. light brown side.. So the sun is taking it toll. Kind of hard to believe due to the building are only in the sun for a half a day and afternoons are shaded.
Anyway keep the idea coming and will keep trying all until I find something other that melting them together with a soldering gun. 
Tk's for all of the comebacks..


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## Daniel Peck (Mar 31, 2009)

Silcone 2 from GE works really good. glue it up 1st with testors then go over the joints with this stuff and it holds!!!! Used it in the Sign Industry 1st, Now on my buildings, Been out for over 5 years and never came apart.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By DennisB on 29 Dec 2011 04:57 PM 
You can use a PVC adhesive or The "Household" type of Amazing Goop. I have both Piko and Pola buildings and find that Amazing Goop works best overall. Regards, Dennis. Tk's Dennis, Well try that.. See if can find some PVC Household type at the Hardware store here in Rio Linda. Darn Testers won't do anything. but peel off the plastic? I use Testers on my Ho building, but tha is a difference type of plastic i guess.. 
The Aristo farm house didn't hold up with testers so i used IPS weldon #16 from TAP's and it helld for a few yr's as you can see. Thats a Acrylic glue and works well on my plastic guards on the Ho layout when i get a crack.

Still looking for something for the LGB Eng. house and some other LGB buildings yet.. " Just found LGB on the under side of the roof. Boy.. I didn't know there were so many types of plastic stuff around.. "


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## Dick413 (Jan 7, 2008)

has anyone tryed Sinbad glue? sold at train shows they claim that is better than lgb,piko.


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## Madstang (Jan 4, 2008)

I've used 3M Emblem Glue sold at NAPA stores..but it also fails after about 2-3 years out in the weather all year long..It turns brown and brittle. I haven't found a sutable glue that works permentantly..yet.

Bubba


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

Somewhere I've got a tube of Pola glue. It must work on Pola buildings. Since I've got some of their building falling down, I'll try it (when I find it) and report back.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Well ... Still looking, but really haven't had a chance on repairing the LGB, Pola, Aristo and a few other buildings yet.. It's been kind of bad weather and still have about 30 to 40 buildings setting on our Get to-gether long BBQ table out back under the dining canopy . 
Any one yet come up with a glue that will work???.. Still haven't tried the ABS glue...


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## dieseldude (Apr 21, 2009)

Noel- I've been using MEK on all of my plastic buildings. Instead of 'gluing' the plastic, it actually welds (melts) the parts together. They pretty much become 1part. Forever. Many glues used for plastic have MEK in them.  I've heard that it's hard to find MEK in certain parts of the country. I buy it at Home D and Lowes. Its used as a paint thinner, so it's also available at paint stores, like Sherwin Williams, etc. A single can will last forever. A couple thoughts about MEK: 

1. It's real watery. So, I stand the pieces up, clamp them together and let capillary action seal the joint. 

2. You will need clean surfaces on both pieces for MEK to bond. You'll have to scrape off old glue, paint, etc. 

3. It's strong smelling stuff!!!! You definitely want to use in a well ventilated space. 

Hope this helps. 


-Kevin.


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## noelw (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By dieseldude on 31 Jan 2012 08:47 AM 
Noel- I've been using MEK on all of my plastic buildings. Instead of 'gluing' the plastic, it actually welds (melts) the parts together. They pretty much become 1part. Forever. Many glues used for plastic have MEK in them. I've heard that it's hard to find MEK in certain parts of the country. I buy it at Home D and Lowes. Its used as a paint thinner, so it's also available at paint stores, like Sherwin Williams, etc. A single can will last forever. A couple thoughts about MEK: 

1. It's real watery. So, I stand the pieces up, clamp them together and let capillary action seal the joint. 

2. You will need clean surfaces on both pieces for MEK to bond. You'll have to scrape off old glue, paint, etc. 

3. It's strong smelling stuff!!!! You definitely want to use in a well ventilated space. 

Hope this helps. 


-Kevin. 

Tks Kevin.. Darn I was just at Home-D. yesterday.. I'll try it and see what happens when the darn weather gets a little better..


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