# LGB mogul analogue soundboard to Bachmann Annie



## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Hello!

I am in the process of trying to add the fully working analogue soundboard from a very old LGB mogul 2019s to a Bachmann anniversary model. I appreciate I should probably just ditch them, but they work and in the interest of experimentation, and with (hopefully!) some guidance, I would like to give a go at installation over the festive break! I have seen elsewhere on here people using similar boards, but as mine look different, I thought I should start a further thread. Hope that is ok.

Shown on the photo are the pins that used to go directly to the track for power. My plan is use r/c battery for the loco and the idea would be to run wires from the pins and splice them to the wires going to the motor. I assume that although that voltage would be variable as speed is increased (as it was under track power) it would be ok, with the 9v battery taking care of the lower end? I also assume that it doesn't matter about polarity - which would switch in reverse? 

The pins marked chuff are what used to go to the sensor in the LGB mogul. I have seen some great tips elsewhere on using hall sensors and magnets on tender wheels, and I am going to have a try at that. May I ask for suggestions on what hall sensor and magnets best, where you would suggesting purchasing (I'm in the UK), and which pins would go to which part of the sensor? I did think about getting one of these for ease but again, I wouldn't know which pins would go to which wire ? Massoth 8242030 - Clock Set Standart Axle New 4251102686869 | eBay

I think I have figured out the whistle/bell activation.

Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt.
Please bear in mind those old LGB Mogul sound systems used to waste the first 5-6 volts of the applied track voltage so the sound and lights came on before the LGB loco started to move.
I am not sure what the effect will be if track voltage is applied as normal to the Bachmann loco.


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

TonyWalsham said:


> Matt.
> Please bear in mind those old LGB Mogul sound systems used to waste the first 5-6 volts of the applied track voltage so the sound and lights came on before the LGB loco started to move.
> I am not sure what the effect will be if track voltage is applied as normal to the Bachmann loco.


Hello Tony
Thank you for your reply. Sorry if its a daft question, may I ask what could be the result of the comment above?
Could you offer any suggestions with regards hall sensors etc?
I should mention that I am using one of your "In Train - 2000B momentum throttle" as the controller coupled to a 14.4v battery if that helps!
Thanks
Matthew


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## trainmanfw&sw (Nov 4, 2020)

Watch this guys video, there are systems on the market today that are very reasonable priced and can do a lot for what you pay. Most today take out the electronics and replace with a new system, mixing up old systems can be a electronics nighmire and if your not a electronics guy, good luck. 




trainman


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm sure Tony will respond, and in more detail, but he is warning you that the sound may come on after the loco starts moving... especially on analog DC.... try it and see if you have issues, there are solutions.

Greg


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Ah - that makes sense Greg. Thank you. May I ask if you have any suggestions on the queries I raised?


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Again, the first thing I would do is get it working, install, power it up, and find a hall effect sensor and fit a magnet.

Then if you have issues with one thing starting before another, a simple "voltage dropper" is usually all you need.

I would do this step by step:

install
power and test
get chuff working
fine tune
Don't try to get it all "done" and then power it up and nothing works, it makes the debugging of the problem harder, even for very experienced people.

Greg


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Thanks Greg, i will give it a go!


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## TonyWalsham (Jan 2, 2008)

Hello Matt.
Sorry but I could not respond.
I have no idea what would happen. My comment was mainly a precautionary note.
Greg has expanded on it nicely. His suggestion is a sensible course of action..


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Further to the kind suggestions above, I have bought some hall sensors and magnets and tested them with a simple LED set up which turns on when you bring the magnet near and off when you take it away! I bought these sensors 10pcs A3144E 3144 OH3144E Hall SIP Three-Pin Effect Sensor: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Whilst it is an old board (from an LGB 2019s) it does work, and it will happily let off steam, blow its whistle and ring its bell, but I cannot get the chuff to chuff. I do know which pins to be used, but I guess its down to me not knowing the order with which pins should go to which leg on the sensor. From my research (which could be wrong!) whilst looking at the text on the sensor, the left leg is +, mid leg is - and the right leg is the sender. Can any one offer any suggestions?

I am really reluctant to give up now, but am struggling with what to do next!

Can anyone make any suggestions of things to try? 

Thanks - and Merry Christmas!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

did you get the datasheet on the sensor? I think you must have since you got it to work in your test setup, but maybe not, not clear from your post. A3144E Datasheet, PDF - Alldatasheet

So you need the definition of the pins on the sound board.

So do a search for a schematic or pinout of your sound board.

Greg


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Thanks for coming back to me Greg. Yes, I managed to sort the hall sensor schematic, but am really struggling with the schematic for the card. I imagine it's due to the age of it!

I know which pins are to be used, it's just what they all do?

Any further guidance would be most welcome!

Merry Christmas!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

On the old Mogul 2 stacked board setup, the middle of the 3 pins is the sense line, the other 2 are power and ground. On the other set of 3 pins, middle is common, 2 end pins are bell and whistle. You can use a reed sensor on a tender axle and use resistors to the power pins to similate chuff input. plus to 1k, minus to 2k and middle of resistors to the middle pin on the board. ANd you may want 2 magnets on the same axle for 4 chuffs.


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Dan, thanks very much for the input. I'll give it a try after Christmas lunch! Thank you!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

As usual, Dan is the man!


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Hello, so I've spent all afternoon on this now and am still struggling to get it to chuff. Using your kind suggestion Dan, I wired it to the board, but nothing happened. I then tried every combination of wiring and nothing happened. I then set up the simple circuit shown and probed with my multimeter on the brown and white cable. Bringing the magnet near the hall sensor made the circuit! So, I know the set up works, but not when fitted to the board may I ask if anyone things I am missing something obvious, or perhaps I am using an incorrectly rated hall sensor?

Thanks for the continued support.


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## brownmat (Dec 22, 2020)

Just a note to say thanks to you all for your assistance with this, but I have decided to upgrade the card to a newer version. Hopefully I'll have better luck with it!


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## Dan Pierce (Jan 2, 2008)

A newer card should give much better sound.


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