# In-ko-pah RR - Dos Manos building #4



## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I still haven't decided how to detail the interior of my last building, so for now I'm starting on the next building. Here's the CGI mockup I created when I designed the third and fourth buildings: . .







. This new building will be the fourth for the town of Dos Manos. Photos of the build (so far) begin here: . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#30 . . As with the previous building, the first story will be quite small, with additional rooms merely suggested by the presence of a door. The second story will be longer and extend past the rear of the first story, to rest on a shelf of rock on the cliff behind the town. . The building will be made of real stone. Walls that will be hidden from view will only not actually have stone, just reinforced mortar. So far I've finished the basic structure of the first story. It's a simple box shape, tapered slightly at the rear to fit into the angled space on the town site. The front has a single, large rectangular opening where doors and windows will be added later to create a typical storefront. As with my other stone buildings, I began by building a box-shaped form out of foam core art board. A large piece of 1/2" thick foam core was used as a plug to create the opening at the front of the structure. . . On my last trip to Nevada, I picked up a lot of thin, flat slabs of sandstone. I broke some of these up and shaped them into rough, tiny blocks using tile nippers, then carefully placed them into the form. I also added a narrow accent tile from the hardware store, to simulate a decorative cast iron beam. . Next I added reinforcements -- brass rods and 1/4" hardware cloth -- and then poured in a mix of high strength mortar and vinyl concrete patcher. This completed the front wall of the structure. After the mortar hardened, I turned the form over so I could work on the next side of the structure, adding hardware cloth and mortar. This was repeated for each of the two remaining sides. When the last side had fully set, I carefully cut and pulled apart the form, revealing the completed structure. Here's how it looks setting next to the existing buildings:







. That's as far as I've gotten. Next I'll start building the form for the second story. 


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

As a true fan of your work I'm happy to follow this next build!


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, you are one industrious fellow. The new building should be great, given your track record. And I have enjoyed reading your figure modeling series in GR. One question though: when do you have time for your "day job?" Or those "honey-dos?"


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I just finished the basic structure of this building's second story. Here's a shot of how the building looks on the town site... . 
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. . . 

Shaping the stones for the window arches was a pain. I started with rectangular marble stones, from a tile sheet I bought at Home Depot. 

The walls were made using sandstone slabs I got in Nevada. 


Photos of the build (so far) begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#39 . . . 

Next I have to make the doors and windows; the sidewalks, balcony and roof; and then the interiors.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Looks great! On your site you write you temporarily set the two sections of the building to see how it looks like. Does that mean you are gonna attach them together once they look fine or do you leave the to be removable from eachother?


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Nice work Ray, I like the arch top windows - they look good. 

Thanks for the photos.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks! I do plan to keep them as two separate pieces, for ease of access to the interior.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Wow Ray you never cease to amaze me, I LOVE your detailed modeling, this building will surely be a real addition to your many other structures. 
Keep up the good work and keeps us posted. 
Dennis


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## dawgnabbit (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work, Ray!

Re: what to put in the windows of your last building, maybe it could be a dry goods store. A friend of mine made miniature "bolts" of fabric by wrapping cloth scraps around a popsicle stick. He stacked them up in the window and hung a sign advertising "Fabric Sale!" It made a very effective display.

Sorry I don't have a picture to post.

Dawg


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I finally got some more work done on the new building. I built the whole "storefront" assembly -- the support structure, door and windows -- out of styrene. It's all painted and weathered. I haven't glazed the windows yet, I'll do that later. Here's a shot of the lower half of the building with the storefront assembly temporarily in place: . . . .







. . . . . . I haven't glued the storefront in place yet -- I'll do that after I get the interior built, which is the next step of the project. . If you want to see how the storefront assembly was made, I have a few photos beginning here: . . 
http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#72 . . 

After I put in the interior walls and ceiling, I'll start building the "wood" sidewalk.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Wow Great Store front. 

At first I thought you had some kind of opaque stuff covering the windows. But then I realized that is the interior of the building.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I built and installed the interior walls for this section of the building. I even gave them authentic 1910 wallpaper! 

New pics begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#80


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Very nice Ray. How difficult do you find it to lay in vinyl sheets that large. I'm worried about bubbles and wrinkles. It is obvious you didn't have any problems that way with your wallpaper.

Robert


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

It wasn't very difficult. Just start at one end and work your way across, pressing it down. I did get a couple of bubbles but I just tapped them with the tip of an x-acto knife to let the air out and pressed them down. 

The trickiest part is making sure to get it on straight at the start, not at a slight angle.


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## Robert (Jan 2, 2008)

Easy enough, thanks Ray.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's another brief update... . . . . I wasn't happy with the gaps between the stones, so I filled them with mortar. I mixed a small quantity of mortar, added some "charcoal" pigment to darken it a little, and smeared onto the walls of the building by hand. When I was sure it had been pressed into all the gaps, I carefully rinsed off the excess while lightly rubbing it with my hand. In some areas I also used a soft paintbrush. . . . . . After the mortar had set, I scrubbed the walls with stiff brush under running water, to remove some of the residue. It still needs a little touch up here and there, but I think it looks a lot better now: . . . . . . . .







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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's the latest update... . . . 
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I started working on the furnishings for the storefront interior. I built some cabinets with shelves out of styrene. These were "distressed" to look like they've been around a long time and have never been refinished. The design and "weathering" were inspired by photos from the J. A. Merriam Drug store in Colorado, which I got from a "No Frills" photo CD on ebay. . . 
. . . 
Using regular spray paints, I sprayed them with gray primer, then a mist of red-brown primer, and a little bit of light brown. Then I brushed on a reddish-brown mix of Apple Barrel flat acrylics. I used a dark brown mix for the trim. After this had dried, I brushed on a thin wash of artist's gloss medium, which really gives it a nice varnished look. When that had dried, I chipped and scraped away small bits of the surface paint. Then I went over it with a Scotch-Brite pad. . . . 
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I still have to make the merchandise to fill the shelves. I also have to make some other furnishings, "weather" the interior, add signs and displays, and lights. The false doorway at the rear will have a curtain draped across it. . . 
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Here's a shot of the interior with the cabinets temporarily placed in position: . . 
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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

Mighty fine, Ray!


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Looks great to me, Ray!!

Ed


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I just finished a wood framed, glass display case for the drug store interior: . . . . 
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The frame was made of styrene. The glass is polycarbonate, and was installed after the frame was painted. I used artist's gloss medium to glue the polycarbonate into the frame. The middle shelf was put in last. . . . 
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The cabinet was "distressed" to look old and a bit worn. The weathering looks harsher in the photos than in real life. I may try to tone it down later. 
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I have a couple photos of the cabinet under construction, beginning here: . . . 
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http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#96 . . . 
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I'm still working on the merchandise to stock the shelves. . . .


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray; 

Excellent work! This may sound strange, but the interior furnishings remind me of the "Apothacary Shop" in Colonial Williamsburg, VA. 

Best Wishes, 
David Meashey


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By Dave Meashey on 02 Mar 2010 06:55 AM 
Ray; 

Excellent work! This may sound strange, but the interior furnishings remind me of the "Apothacary Shop" in Colonial Williamsburg, VA. 

Best Wishes, 
David Meashey 



Not strange at all -- I used several old drug stores as reference.


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## ThinkerT (Jan 2, 2008)

Dang, that is some excellent work! 

Time to start thinking about 'Dos Manos buildings' #5 & #6? 

How many buildings are planned for Dos Manos anyhow?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By ThinkerT on 02 Mar 2010 02:17 PM 
Dang, that is some excellent work! 

Time to start thinking about 'Dos Manos buildings' #5 & #6? 

How many buildings are planned for Dos Manos anyhow? 



Thanks! I don't know yet how many more there will be. There's room on the "main drag" for at least 4-5 buildings, including some that will be larger than the first four. I do want to have a hotel, and a small restaurant, and maybe a grocery store. There will probably be a couple of individual buildings near by as well, plus the depot.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Lately I've been busy making merchandise to stock the shelves of the drug store. I've made about 150 bottles so far. These were turned by hand using a power drill as a crude lathe. I use a Dremel with a cutting disk to shape them as they turn, then smooth them with steel wool and finally polish them with a bit of toothpaste on a rag. Some of the bottles are then painted with transparent colors. Then they're labeled using decals I printed out, from scaled down photos of vintage medicine labels. After decalling, the bottles are sprayed with glossy Krylon clear. Here's a few of the bottles. . . . 
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I'm also making small boxes for the shelves. These a cut from various sizes of styrene rod. Most are glued together, then painted. Labels are printed out on self-adhesive vinyl. . . . 
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Here's a test shot of the shelves in place, with some of the bottles and boxes installed. I still have many more to go, plus lots of other little details: . . . 
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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray......... Just 3 words..... Fab u lous.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

Holy Moly Ray! what scale is this?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

John, it's 1/24th scale.


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi Ray, 

Quite magnificent!


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## docwatsonva (Jan 2, 2008)

I don't think anyone is going to be able to top this one Ray. Outstanding!

Doc


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

John, those are little masterpieces! You always seem to suprise us again! 
You wrote how you made the bottles, but what did you use as basic material for them? Clear styrene rods?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

The bottles were made from 1/8" diameter acrylic rods. I also made a few larger bottles out of 1/4" rod.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Ray, as usual WOW![/b]

Regards, Greg


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Ray
We all hope you keep practicing this modeling stuff, maybe someday you might get good







WOW WOW WOW absolutely Fabulous as STAN said. I love







to see your models and what you dream up next for us to appreciate and drewl over








I have not met you, but seen a couple pictures, i know you are not 10 feet tall, but the height you set the level of the bar, can only be obtained from a ladder. GREAT Modeling and keep it coming.
Dennis


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks for all the kind words! I'm just having fun -- most of this stuff will only be barely visible during the day. But it's really cool at night when the lights are on in the buildings.


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## John J (Dec 29, 2007)

Like everyone else I am impressed 

To make the bottles you use Sytreen Rod? 

JJ


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

The bottles are made from acrylic rod.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I wasn't going to show this detail until I had more of the store finished, but I couldn't wait.  Here's a test shot of a window display in the drugstore: . . . 








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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

Ray.....you're making the rest of us look bad. Fabulous work you're doing on your town. I'm really looking forward to seeing how it all develops. Thanks for all the photos and great ideas!


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

So did Greg pay you off to get his name on something? In fact, here's a great idea: naming rights! Ya get each of these MLSers to put up some coin to have their name emblazoned on....?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Finally got into the mood to do some more work on this building. Among other things, I made a wall clock and five ceiling lamps for it. Here's the clock: . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6359/IMG_6359.jpg . . . And here are three of the ceiling lamps: . . . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6351/IMG_6351.jpg . . . http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6355/IMG_6355.jpg . . . The clock was made from a ring-shaped necklace clasp, with the clear plastic dome from a "googly" eye. The lamps were made from a couple of metal necklace beads soldered to a short length of brass tubing. I used Plastruct clear acrylic domes for the "glass" lampshades. The Plastruct domes were very thick, so I hollowed them out more using an oval carving bit in a Dremel tool. The domes were then given a coat of white spray paint on the outside. . . . . I have some pics of the construction of these items on my website, beginning here: . . . 
http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#106 
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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Ray, those masterpieces earned showing, so I took the liberty to make the links work:








www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#106

Thanks for sharing your always inspirating work!
Paul


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks! I couldn't remember what the new method is for posting pics.


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## Terl (Jan 2, 2008)

Excellant work. The best compliment I can say is that it looks like the real thing. 

Terl


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

incredible - as always. 
how did you hold your lamp"glass" for hollowing out?


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

what scale is this Ray, it would be impossible in 1:29! WOW


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By kormsen on 07 Jun 2010 03:42 AM 
incredible - as always. 
how did you hold your lamp"glass" for hollowing out? 


I just held it in my fingers, and worked carefully.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Posted By Biblegrove RR on 07 Jun 2010 08:45 AM 
what scale is this Ray, it would be impossible in 1:29! WOW 
It's 1/24th scale.


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## Biblegrove RR (Jan 4, 2008)

INCREDIBLE


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## White Deer RR (May 15, 2009)

This qualifies as fine art. Astounding and wonderful.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I've made a lot of progress on the upstairs office of the drugstore. The interior is almost finished. I used some 1/24th scale dollhouse furniture for the desk, chairs and bookcase. They're a bit crude but I made a few modifications, and heavily aged/distressed them to fit this old, grungy office space. I also made a small cabinet and a lot of boxes and other details. The desk lamp will have a working bulb. Here are some test shots: 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6427/IMG_6427.jpg 




The walls are "weathered" to look stained and a little grimy, and the floor was painted to look like old, worn linoleum: 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6428/IMG_6428.jpg 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos_files/Media/IMG_6403/IMG_6403.jpg 




I still need to add a few more details, and put in the ceiling and lights. I've built the door and window frames but need to add "glass" and then install them into the openings. I also need to build the roof.


There are a couple more pics on my website, beginning here: 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#115 


Enjoy!


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Beautiful as always Ray! 

I'm afraid that if I would make interiors like these (if I could that is...) with all those well detailed and small stuff and leave the buildings outside the interiors won't survive a year. Bugs and moist will take over soon (Northwest European climate). Now I can see on your website you live in a pretty dry area so moist won't be a problem. But I was wondering if you ever have encounter bugs or critters in your model buildings? Is there no danger those destroy those superb interiors? Is there a way you use to protect the interiors against them (anti-bug spray)?


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I haven't had much trouble with bugs getting into the buildings so far, mainly because they're sealed up and I'm not using real wood. On some of my buildings that are not sealed, such as the abandoned stone cabin or the hoist house of the mine, I have given them a little blast of bug spray to keep the spiders from building webs inside.


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## Randy Stone (Jan 2, 2008)

Magnificent work Ray. 

Your layout and all the little details you have made your self are just so far over the top. 

Thank you for sharing your work with us. 

Randy


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Here's another brief update on my progress...


I've installed the "glass" in the drugstore's windows and door, and glued the whole assembly into place on the front of the building. The ceiling lamps are installed and the bulbs wired up in such a way that it will be simple to replace any bulb that burns out. The ceiling assembly connects to the power via a tiny two-pin plug, so the whole assembly can be removed as needed. The upstairs portion of the building will connect via a second plug.


The sidewalk is finished and installed, along with two pillars made from brass tube, and the lower part of the upstairs balcony. 


New pics begin here: 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#117


Enjoy!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

As usual, fantastic work Ray. I won't miss the next meeting at your house! 

Maybe I can take a look at your power supply that tried to electrocute you! 

Regards, Greg


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

This afternoon I decided that the balcony really needed to sag a little bit, between the two support pillars. So I placed the building on a slope, shielded the storefront, and put a lead weight on the bottom section of the balcony. Then I poured boiling water over it. This softened the styrene enough to let it sag just a little, and when cool it held that shape. 

The rest of the balcony structure will be given a matching sag.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

I saw the pictures on your site. A very realistic subtile sag. Nice work!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

A really good idea turned out to be a really bad idea... 

The balcony of this drugstore is in two sections. There's a thin, simple piece attached to the ground floor of the building, which acts as a "ceiling" over the sidewalk and provides a way to mate the upstairs portion to the downstairs portion. As seen in my previous posts, I have already installed the groundfloor piece, and used boiling water to induce an appropriate sag. 

So I've been building the rest of the balcony, which will attach to the upstairs part of the building. It's a more complex structure, with decorative trim. Rather than trying to bend each piece of styrene to the correct curve to replicate the sag, I had what seemed like a good idea at the time. I built the structure, complete with decking, and even added the simulated wood grain texturing. Then I placed the whole thing on blocks to support the rear and sides, so that only the front end would sag -- and put it in the oven on low heat (about 225 degrees). 

In just a couple minutes it was becoming soft enough to sag when I placed a lead weight on it. Unfortunately the heat was having other effects as well. The deck planks became severely warped and distorted. The "liquid weld" glue joints softened more than the styrene, and all the joints shifted. The individual components failed to bend as one unit. 

End result: A lot of time and effort wasted. 

It looks like I can salvage the frame, after stripping off the deck planks. The deck will need to be replaced. The frame had to be almost completely disassembled. I bent the front section of the frame separately, by hand, after pouring hot water on it.


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

That's bad news indeed Ray...









When such things happen to me I always try not to see it as waisted time and effort but as a lesson learned (although in a hard way). Learning by doing; trail and error.I hope the new method give better results. I'm looking forward to it!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Yep, lessons learned. 

The frame went back together reasonably well, and I'm almost finished texturing the new planking.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I successfully repaired and rebuilt the balcony frame and replaced the deck. In these photos you can see the way it sags a little in the middle. You can also see how this part of the balcony will be attached to the upstairs part of the building, and how it slips over the lower portion which is attached to the ground floor. I still have to add the railings, posts and roof, and then paint the whole thing. 

I wanted the balcony railings to look like slightly ornate wrought iron or cast iron. It took me a while to come up with a suitable way to do this, without excessive amounts of labor. I found some cheap wooden boxes at Michael's. These boxes have a somewhat elaborate metal grill in the top. I cut this grill into sections and soldered the sections to 1/16" square brass tubes: 

New pics begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#124


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Looks good, no noticeable damage on the building as far as I can see. Good solution for the railings.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I didn't get much time to work on the model today but still managed to get the frame built for the roof of the drugstore's balcony. New pics begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#128 

When I first worked out the rough plan for this building in my 3D program, I made the store's false front taller. Then when I started putting together the foam-core form to make that part of the structure, it looked way too tall. So I cut a little over an inch off of it. Now I wish I hadn't done that! As it is now, I will only barely have room for a sign on the front of the building.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm making good progress on this building, and getting close to completion! First off, I decided to replace the original desk lamp with something a little slimmer. Instead of running the bulb leads through a brass tube, I twisted the leads together, coated them with glue, and then painted them gold. The result isn't perfect but it is an improvement. 

I finished the balcony railings. Thin, vertical brass rods were soldered on at each end. The square horizontal pieces fit into styrene "boards" that will be glued to the balcony posts. 

The roof of the balcony was created using individual styrene "planks". Each plank was textured with simulated wood grain. I used an X-acto knife to carve large cracks into some of the boards, and cut away small broken sections. 

Finally, the balcony was painted to look like aged, weathered wood. The railings were then painted and glued into place. I had to touch up the paint on the posts afterwards, as the solvent made the paint come off at the slightest touch. 

Next I will partially cover the balcony roof with some sort of worn out roofing material -- I haven't yet decided whether it will be rusty metal, shingles, or something else. In any case, parts of the material will be missing, leaving some of those nicely weathered planks exposed. 

I'm still debating whether or not I should add a little bit of worn, peeled paint to the balcony's wood. 

Once the balcony is finished, I'll installed the arched doors into the doorways, and paint a sign on the front wall. Then I'll glue the balcony to the building. 

New pics begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#131


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Time for another progress report...


I painted the sign on the front of the store over the weekend. First I made a stencil by printing the word "drugs" on a sheet of printable, self-adhesive vinyl. I cut out the lettering, stuck the stencil to the building, masked off the surrounding area, then sprayed it with flat black paint. Turned out pretty well.


I also finished both the main roof, and the balcony roof. On the balcony, I used .001" brass sheet to create individual strips of "standing-seam" metal roofing. I wanted it to look rusty, with sections torn and missing to expose some of the weathered wood. 


The metal strips were first spray painted flat black. Then I stippled on several layers of color using Apple Barrel acrylic paints -- mainly Chocolate Brown (more of a red-brown than chocolate), Espresso, Nutmeg Brown, and a mix of Black and Dutch Blue. This was topped with a coat of Krylon UV Matte finish.


(I had considered painting them red to match the trim, but changed my mind after seeing how it looked. It seemed too garish and distracting.) 


The main roof was .060" styrene sheet, braced underneath with heavier square strips. Then I used .020" x .250" styrene strips on the sides, creating an overlap on the sides of the building. The standing seams were simulated with strips of .020" x .060" styrene. Painting was handled the same at described above.


This morning we had some visitors come to see the railroad, so I put the building out on the townsite. While it was there I shot a few pics to see how it looks.


I still have to add a few small details, and finish wiring the lights. 


New pics begin here: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#136


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## peter bunce (Dec 29, 2007)

Hi, Nice work Ray your building(s0 are looking veery good. 

Interesting mix you have listed above - Lght Blue & Black - I will have to try that, how much blue, because the black will swiftly kill it, as a color! 

What did your vistors think of the buildings? 

Thanks for the continuing photos.


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Thanks Peter! I mixed the Dutch Blue about 50/50 with the black. Made kind of a charcoal gray but with a slight bluish tinge. 

Our visitors loved the new building, and the rest of the layout. They'd never even seen photos before so their jaws were really dropping!


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## Paulus (May 31, 2008)

Dropping jars are really understandable!!!! 
Great work Ray (as usual)!


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

Yet another progress report...


I added the sign over the door of the drugstore, and also installed and wired all the lights. Here are a few test photos I shot this evening, beginning here: 


http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Dos_Manos.html#144


I've also begun work on detailing the interior of my previous building. It's the white building with the "Cora's Closet" sign. I originally planned to make it a dress shop but now I'm going to make it a bakery, called "Cora's Cakes". So far I've built a glass display and several shelves, and I'm in the middle of sculpting lots of cakes, pies, breads and pastries out of polyclay. Sorry, no pics of this stuff yet.


I have to set my modeling aside for a bit now... I'm leaving on the 28th for my annual Mojave/Nevada camping trip. I'll be exploring old mines and ghost towns, and also doing some rocket aerial photography. That was my main hobby before I started building the layout. So for the next few days I have to go through all my camping and rocketry stuff and make sure everything's in order, fresh batteries in cameras and altimeters, etc.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks really marvelous. I love the night shots. Can you take one backed away, at dusk? It'd be nice to see the whole group situated on the layout.

Really beautiful work--my hat's off


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## Ray Dunakin (Jan 6, 2008)

I shot a few pics this afternoon showing how the town fits into the layout, as well as a couple overall views of the layout. New pics being here... 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Miscellaneous.html#5 


And here are a couple shots of a train passing through Dos Manos: 

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Photos.html#0


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## craftsmaster (Jun 3, 2010)

Definitely a vegan taste. That's going to be the next stop! 
_________________
Each individual has compelling reasons to love model railroading. But beneath these varied reasons are common threads that make it an awesome hobby everyone.

The Australian Model Train Guide


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