# coal firing for idiots



## msimpson (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi all,

I hope shortly to be receiving a DJB conversion kit for Edrig. While I have watched some coal firing and read a few articles, I know even less about this than I do most things. Two things presently concern me:

(a) where to get good coal -- I know that most coal is not suitable, but do not know what is presently available. Coles has not (yet) responded to an e-mail. (I have some lovely decorative coal courtesy of a kindly NY magazine publisher, but it is apparently composed of asbestos, won't light with a blow torch.)

(b) source for accessories, esp. blower fan.

And yes, past practice suggests that I won't need these for years, but I might actually fool mysself and get it running, so, any info gratefully accepted.

Best regards, Mike


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By msimpson on 14 Apr 2010 07:51 AM 
Hi all,

I hope shortly to be receiving a DJB conversion kit for Edrig. While I have watched some coal firing and read a few articles, I know even less about this than I do most things. Two things presently concern me:

(a) where to get good coal -- I know that most coal is not suitable, but do not know what is presently available. Coles has not (yet) responded to an e-mail. (I have some lovely decorative coal courtesy of a kindly NY magazine publisher, but it is apparently composed of asbestos, won't light with a blow torch.)

(b) source for accessories, esp. blower fan.

And yes, past practice suggests that I won't need these for years, but I might actually fool mysself and get it running, so, any info gratefully accepted.

Best regards, Mike

Mike
I thought that the DJB projects have accessories...otherwise get an Accucraft or Aster fan, find a good spoon and modify it for a shovel, gun supplies for flue brushes, and some hard charcoal should get you started

Call Coles and place the order for the coal. Having Welsh will certainly help your success with firing.


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## aopagary (Jun 30, 2008)

the Southern Steam Trains site has a great article online regarding coal firing.
you'll find an Aster blower fan there, too.


agree with their recommendation of Welsh coal, but also agree it's not easy to find.

the Riverside Live Steamers (all steam ops) 90 minutes up the road from me is where i'd start.


good luck.
cheers...gary


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## highpressure (Jan 2, 2008)

*Mike*
*GOOD COAL IS THE SECRET to success. First time I fired the Coal Ruby I didn't have Welsh coal. I used some I got from Chama. It put out the stinkeyest, yellow gunk you have ever seen. After three runs I couldn't get steam up any more (NOT ME THE LOCO). The smoke stack was stopped up from all of the unburn't volatiles, so I reamed it out with a drill bit and every thing was good again when the 6 gallons of Welsh coal arrived. (Complimets of Bob McHale) Thanks again Bob.* 
*I also would suggest an axle pump which is almost a requirement for coal firing.*


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

http://www. 





Mike
this a video we did a while back of Bill Courtwright firing his SRRL 24. He has great sucess using Charcoal to start and the Welsh coal. Ives uses only hard charcoal.
I found some charcoal here in the Houston area from Braziel that Jeff said worked fine in my Aster C-62. Hopes this helps. As you can see it does take patience.




.com/v/viM1y5civyg&hl=en_US&fs=1&%22%3E%3C/param%3E%3Cparam name="allowFullScreen" value="true">


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## seadawg (Jan 2, 2008)

I recently got 10lbs of welsh coal from Cole's, Just pick up the phone and dial (409) 547-3400. In the last few weeks I've successfully fired an engine that several people had tried and failed. I followed the instructions I found on Jim Pitt's web site. I followed his instructions to a TEE with the exception of lamp oil. I used the standard grade A-1 kerosene that I use to heat my garage in the wintertime. Here's the tips I tell my self while firing up:

Have a GOOD, DEEP charcol fire going and on the steam blower before adding coal.
Add a few scoops of coal, let it catch fire well.
Add a few more scoops and wait again as in step two.
I try to let all the charcol burn out and have a good deep bed of coal (as deep as possible) before pulling out on the track.
DON"T FORGET to monitor the water level while steaming up on the blower.
 I'm a rank novice as I have ran this engine only twice and I'm still working out the bugs with the loco (wheel gauge, water leaks from the tender pump, new clack valve fittings, etc), but it produced steam for about 45 minutes each time and I only quit because I wanted to shut it down.

P.S. I'm using an Aster suction fan to get it to 20psi before moving to the steam blower.

P.P.S. I watched John Shawe fire an engine of his own design and manufacture at Diamondhead this year. It was O GAUGE, talk about a small firebox! It ran perfectly. Check out his article on Jim's web site.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

I failed to mention that I have both the Aster and Accucraft fan and the Accucraft fan is far better and stronger and better on battery life. Not meant to be a commercial.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

The only thing I will add is that the charcoal must be real charcoal, not bricketts. I have found misquet (My spelling isn't good without spell check)works good. At any rate it must be hardwood. I get mine at the local supermarket.

Also, the charcoal must be soaked in somekind of fluid to aid in lighting. I use regular charcoal lighter fluid. 

And here are comments on the comments: 
USE WELCH COAL!!!!!!!! I have always been able to get mine from Coles.
My Aster draft fan works just fine.
See both the Southern Steam Trains and Roundhouse - Engineering articles on coal firing.
You will need both a shovel and a pick. The pick is used mainly to open and close the firebox door.
Be sure to break up both charcoal and welsh coal to the proper size. This is not real critical but too big does not burn well. I use pruning shears to bust up both types of coal.
The axel pump is a must for really enjoyable coal firing.

When I made my first try at coal firing, I used a stationary test stand. I recommend this way to start.








Have fun!!!!!!Q


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

Just a couple comments from another newbie to coal with a Sabre Steam Annette [Lady Anne conversion].

Stick with Coles for your Welxh coal. You get 20 pounds in a USPS flat rate box, normally the next day. In addition, they are good people to work with.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, REGARDLESS OF COAL TYPE, KEEP YOUR GRATE CLEAR OF ASH! No fan will provide a strong draft if the grate is plugged up with ash. 
Good luck!

Will


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

OK, here is the dumb question of the day: Does anyone burn wood in a Ga 1?? How about real charcoal (not briquettes)??

Tks, Bob


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Real Charcoal. No briquettes. As Dave "USE COAL" say ,no way Jose to Briquettes. Good hard charcoal is what Dave and Bill use to start their fires. Ives Guillmond uses only Charcoal , tropical charcoal for his engines.


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## highpressure (Jan 2, 2008)

*Here's a Ruby running on coal. fire box is 1" wide X 1 1/8" long and the coal bed is 3/4" deep.*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNuT-6vFrd8


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

After observing coal fired engines of all sorts being run many, many times at my track I think that the best words of advice can be summed up in..............."Patience my friend".


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

About twenty-five years ago, we burned Welsh coal in our 1/8 scale Mogul. It was hard to get then. Our source was David Rose (the music composer and member of Los Angeles Live Steamers). He had it shipped to his home in Sherman Oaks, CA in bags inside machinery crates he had purchased in England. It was the primo stuff alright! Now we have to use West Virginia Pocohontas coal. You get lots of clinkers with this coal.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

I will cut and paste an email I sent to Britstrains on running her coal fired ruby, I think she had success with this and I hope you also do,


Hey Brittany,

I will explain what I do in a large paragraph, then answer yours questions underneath, but remember, every engine will act different (even the big ones do) and you have to learn your little engines specifics.

Here is what I figured out.

Materials:

1. Coal Fired Engine
2. Blower (aster one works fine, has to be powerful enough to keep the hardwood charcoal fire up)
3. Lamp Oil (paraffin) (people use other things also)
4. Hard wood charcoal, the stuff you find in those fancier supermarkets or home depot(I think) the regular charcoal is pressed sawdust doesn't get hot enough
5. Welsh Coal (Its from poland now I think LOL) http://colespowermodels.com - you have to call him and ask for the USPS flat rate box welsh coal special lol (cheapest in shipping this way)
6. 4 small bins, easly accessible
7. wire fencing with bean size holes in it
8. bucket
9 small sifter (anything that will hole your nice coal on top and let the silt fall through, healthy fires require that the coal be uniformed(ish) and bean size for djb ruby firebox anyway) 
10. water sprayer with goodall adapter to advert disaster (incase your water falls too low - unsafe conditions)

(optional)Dirty bituminous coal


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## msimpson (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi all, 

I would be amazed at the outpouring of helpful advice, except that I've gotten such responses before. Many, many thanks. 

For years, I've explained to non-believers that normal people think that guys who play with trains are strange. Sparkies say, "No, we're all right, but have you seen the live steamers?" Live steamers say "No, the real eccentrics are the guys burning coal." BUT I've wanted to be an eccentric for a really long time. 

Thanks, and best regards, Mike


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

1 more thing about tools, I hope your coal fired kit comes with the shovel. I know the shovel has to be a certain size to your firebox hole, so whoever builds your boiler also needs to supply the shovel in most cases. I use the aster (2 C battery version) and bring my coal fired ruby up, just keep in mine most electrical blowers can not keep a coal fire going but can easily keep the charcoal part of the fire going good. to run on coal you need steam driving draft (in most cases, - yes I know you can put your vacuum cleaner on it... lol) 

Just some of my experiences, I too read all the websites and postings on running the coal engine but you have to figure out what methods are best with you and you need to tweak them as you go, every coal engine seems to have a soul and they act a little bit different every time you fire them up. It is what makes it fun! Till this day, most of the time, my ruby wants to run and sometimes it likes to limp around (depends on how much I am paying attention on that particular day), but I know 1 thing for SURE, it LOVES to run on the diamondhead white track circle!!!


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

On the real wood charcoal vs. briquettes discussion...

I went into a Meijer's store here in suburban Detroit, and asked the young man, "Do you have any real wood charcoal--not briquettes?" He looked at me kind of strangely and asked, "Isn't all charcoal briquettes?"

Wrong generation!


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## SalM (Jan 2, 2008)

And yes, past practice suggests that I won't need these for years, but I might actually fool mysself and get it running, so, any info gratefully acceptedAnd yes, past practice suggests that I won't need these for years, but I might actually fool mysself and get it running, so, any info gratefully accepted

Mike...you will fool more than yourself..................but we are rooting for you.............LH&H RR


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By steamtom1 on 15 Apr 2010 08:48 AM 
On the real wood charcoal vs. briquettes discussion...

I went into a Meijer's store here in suburban Detroit, and asked the young man, "Do you have any real wood charcoal--not briquettes?" He looked at me kind of strangely and asked, "Isn't all charcoal briquettes?"

Wrong generation!

There is a real charcoal around here from time to time, I think the brand is "Royal Oak". I recall a guy using it, I think he soaked it in kerosene to get it started.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

One can run on real charcoal. Yves Guillaume only uses "real coal" what he calls "smokey coal" to make a plume and a little smoke smell his main fire is charcoal; however, it is not just plain old charcoal. He has told me where he gets the charcoal and what type it is but I do not remember. It is not a wood I ever heard of before. The engine he takes to Diamondhead was designed by ASTER to run on charcoal. 

In theory wood will work but it would take a lot of firing.


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

I remember going to Diamondhead years back and when you walked into the place the alcohol fumes would just about burn your eyes. Now, you walk in and the coal smoke and aroma is thick as a knife. Who would have thought that coal firing would have become as big a part of the hobby as it has become.


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Dave -- Use Coal on 14 Apr 2010 04:23 PM 
The only thing I will add is that the charcoal must be real charcoal, not bricketts. I have found misquet (My spelling isn't good without spell check)works good. At any rate it must be hardwood. I get mine at the local supermarket.

Also, the charcoal must be soaked in somekind of fluid to aid in lighting. I use regular charcoal lighter fluid. 

And here are comments on the comments: 
USE WELCH COAL!!!!!!!! I have always been able to get mine from Coles.
My Aster draft fan works just fine.
See both the Southern Steam Trains and Roundhouse - Engineering articles on coal firing.
You will need both a shovel and a pick. The pick is used mainly to open and close the firebox door.
Be sure to break up both charcoal and welsh coal to the proper size. This is not real critical but too big does not burn well. I use pruning shears to bust up both types of coal.
The axel pump is a must for really enjoyable coal firing.

*When I made my first try at coal firing, I used a stationary test stand. I recommend this way to start.*








Have fun!!!!!!Q








+1
Here is an overview of coal firing while using rollers:
Building the initial fire with a bit of hard charcoal 



















Awaiting for the bed to set with a good charcoal fire as per John Shawe:

All now looks rosy, however the crucial moment is now looming when the paraffin burns away there will be no more flames and it is quite possible the top of the fire will appear black and very unhealthy, most disconcerting for a fireman trained on a meth burner. Confidence is now all important and the trick is to do nothing, shutting the door and allowing the fire to burn through; honest, it hasn't gone out! 










Pressure is up, fan off and blower on. again as per John: If your blower is exceptionally feeble (as mine often is due to the antiquity of my batteries) you may have to continue with charcoal until there is enough pressure to use the steam blower. Continue to build up the fire with coal and by the time working pressure is reached all of the charcoal will have burnt away. 










Feeding the hungry dragon a spoon of Welsh coal- Once pressure has risen to about 20 psi, the electric blower can be removed and the steam blower turned on. Continue to build up the fire with coal and by the time working pressure is reached all of the charcoal will have burnt away. The fire will consist of the, now red hot coal that you've been busily shoveling in since taking the electric blower off. (J Shawe)










Good estalibshed coal bed, pressure and set to go











Fire box and grates glow and no sign of ash buildup 









Open the throttle and let the beast run.....With a good thick bed of hot coal you will find it possible to completely fill the firebox before departure[ for us about the bottom of the door opening], allowing a longer run before more coal is required. (J. Shawe)


Some aspects of failure (yes, have encountered many)
Air flow: ash pan and the flues (especially if you have too big or too small coal that either blocks or get sucked into the flue blocking air flow)
Too much/too little: too much charcoal and too little time getting that deep bed of glowing coal
Size: size does matter (except for the K27 that are very forgiving)
Balance: keeping the pressure up with a good balance of fresh coal and adequate water. Allow the fire box to get to cool with too much "new" nuggets and/or having to pump too much water thus cooling the boiler will be cause for a station stop
Ash: make sure the grates have good air flow, might require a poke and rake once in a while other wise the critical space for air flow and capacity for nuggets to be in the bed of hot flames will be lessen

As with any "hands on" keeping elements in balance is an art with balance and a good routine the glow with make you smile with less messing with requirements than one would think is necessary. 

BTW- cleaning the fiery dragon is not a difficult task nor that time consuming either. About the same as any other steam locomotive.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Very well done Charles. I cannot wait to get my hands on the C-62 that Jeff has in his possesion. I really believe he has become attached to it and the "BIG BOY" hah. As he would say he he.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, a coal fired ruby is a handful, VERY small firebox , but as a lot of you seen me run it at diamondhead, it can be done and done well, 








(picture from john fullers album)


John Shawe with his O-Gauge coal fired engine, bravo!!!. It ran very well!









(picture from southern steam trains)


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

RFC- Ruby fired by Coal...test run. Those that have the DJB conversions have been able to enjoy the pleasure of successful coal firing along with the demands and at times the disappointments of the "black hole!"


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## thumper (Jan 31, 2009)

For those searching for hardwood charcoal, try Lowes. In Michigan, they sell 8.5 pound bags for $6.99. It contains charcoal made from scraps of hardwood molding to pieces of small trees. The pieces of molding are good as they can be broken up by hand. The larger pieces need pliers or something similar. A photo of the bag is below.

I soaked mine in odorless lamp oil simply because I don't want to bring the smell of lighter fluid into the house on clothes etc.

When starting the fire in my new Annette, one of our club members, who shall remain nameless, suggested using a squirt of meths in the charcoal container soas to make it easier to light the charcoal and help the fire along. It did, and in the process, my little shovel carried some of the fire back to my supply of charcoal. It lit instantly, without the use of a suction fan. Putting the lid on my metal container promptly smothered the flame. This could not have been done with a plastic container as it would have melted. So, even if you don't use meths, using a metal container with a metal lid or a glass container with a metal lid is the safest way to go. Also, ALWAYS know where your fire extinguisher is located.










Good luck, 

Will


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## Britstrains (Feb 24, 2008)

Hi All,
I just recently started my adventure into coal firing. I was lucky enough to find a DJB kit to convert my accucraft ruby/mimi. I am still a beginner at it but with each time I steam it I feel I am making progress. My kit came with the suction fan and shovel and poker. The ruby itself was converted by TRS. I also use the cowboy brand charcoal seen in the photo above that Will posted. Only been at it on my own for three days now, but yes I AM addicted. And also I have to thank Andrew for the information he gave me, It was very helpful. 
Thanks,
Brittany


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

as it is representative of the many brands of *hardwood* lump *...*www.nakedwhiz.com/burntime*test*/lumpcompare.htm - 

This sire did a pretty good comparison test on hardwood charcoal to determine heat length of heat and ash content. Found it interesting and the Brazilain charcoal did very well. Hard to find but it is available and according to Jeff it worked well in the C-62


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gibs035 on 15 Apr 2010 02:27 PM 
as it is representative of the many brands of *hardwood* lump *...*www.nakedwhiz.com/burntime*test*/lumpcompare.htm - 

This sire did a pretty good comparison test on hardwood charcoal to determine heat length of heat and ash content. Found it interesting and the Brazilain charcoal did very well. Hard to find but it is available and according to Jeff it worked well in the C-62

The one I got was the Wicked Good Charcoal from South America


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## Steve S. (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gibs035 on 15 Apr 2010 11:49 AM 
Very well done Charles. I cannot wait to get my hands on the C-62 that Jeff has in his possesion. I really believe he has become attached to it and the "BIG BOY" hah. As he would say he he.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------






Hey Art, you gonna run that "*BIG BOY *" on coal ??????


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gibs035 on 15 Apr 2010 02:29 PM 
Posted By gibs035 on 15 Apr 2010 02:27 PM 
as it is representative of the many brands of *hardwood* lump *...*www.nakedwhiz.com/burntime*test*/lumpcompare.htm - 

This sire did a pretty good comparison test on hardwood charcoal to determine heat length of heat and ash content. Found it interesting and the Brazilain charcoal did very well. Hard to find but it is available and according to Jeff it worked well in the C-62

The one I got was the Wicked Good Charcoal from South America

Art
Having read the comparison and based on my recall....(which like my logic is questionable) I would go with the Cowboy (as I would think most Texans would) due to low ash and a quicker burn rate not lasting as long thereby quicker to complete it's purpose, so that one can get onto heating the coal nuggets sooner via less space being occupied by the charcoal. Beyond that theory all but the Kingsford will work equally well given the small amount needed to get the job done.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

_ donot plan on using much coal anyway. Ives only uses enough coal to create some smoke from what the guys who go to DH each year. Thye say in the C-62 he uses only the Tropical Hardwood Charcoal for fueling the engine and adds aliitle of the bituminus coal for smoke and smell effect. I bought a large supply of the charcoal that i mentioned and will have to do with that for a while. Since it burned longer and very little more ash residue.
And Steve I donot plan on running"BIG BOY" on coal. Ives also told me that he had suggested to Caleb to stay away from coal in the Big Boy. I can imagine trung to keep the flues in Her clean after burning coal._


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## Charles (Jan 2, 2008)

Art
Maybe at DH but at home.....could it be the difference in relax environment along with the refreshments that keeps one hydrated while working hard during a coal firing session?


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe Charles
You see I have to go by what these people here in Houston tell me. I try to be honest and above board but ,boy







these guys here really lead me down the garden path. 
I also have a good supply of the Welsh coa; that I got from East Texas supplier that I may try after i really get the feel for the engine. The Charcoal I got was only available in one location here in Texas.
I guess we will see sometime late Spring when Jeff delivers the C-62, S-2, Train cases, the Big Boy and whatever.


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

Ill have to see if I can find that tropical charcoal, I know the hardwood "whole foods" 365 charcoal will last about 50 feet of running before using all the charcoal up in the firebox, it will burn out that fast. Starting the ruby though on it though, it works good. Maybe conventional wisdom is thrown out when you talking about a small firebox hehe. 

Andrewt


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

As I said ear;ier, I am going by what Ives said in an email and what John Frank, Dave Young, Caleb Roberts and Bill Courtwright have told me that Ives did at DH> It may mean that you have to stop every 10 minutes to shake down ash and add Charcoal ,but i guess thats what the real guys had to do every few minutes was to add more coal to the fire box. Boy this hobby is soon turning in to work. But man do we ever love it.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By afinegan on 16 Apr 2010 11:25 AM 
Ill have to see if I can find that tropical charcoal, I know the hardwood "whole foods" 365 charcoal will last about 50 fee of running lol the whole charcoal fire in the firebox will burn out that fast. Starting the ruby though on it though, it works good. Maybe conventional wisdom is thrown out when you talking about a small firebox hehe. 

Andrewt 

Andy I can see how the firing would be tedious with a fire bax the size of the Ruby , but I watched you on the video from DH while you were working and you have the patience to get it done. 

If you look at the site that has the Charcoal comparison you will be able to lacate the source of the Brazilian charcoal there. LOL.


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## artgibson (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By gibs035 on 16 Apr 2010 01:07 PM 
Posted By afinegan on 16 Apr 2010 11:25 AM 
Ill have to see if I can find that tropical charcoal, I know the hardwood "whole foods" 365 charcoal will last about 50 fee of running lol the whole charcoal fire in the firebox will burn out that fast. Starting the ruby though on it though, it works good. Maybe conventional wisdom is thrown out when you talking about a small firebox hehe. 

Andrewt 

Andy I can see how the firing would be tedious with a fire bax the size of the Ruby , but I watched you on the video from DH while you were working and you have the patience to get it done. 

If you look at the site that has the Charcoal comparison you will be able to lacate the source of the Brazilian charcoal there. LOL.


www.[b]wickedgoodcharcoal[/b].com/ - Cached - Similar Where to Buy
This link will take you to where you can find the Charcoal. Several places in Florida. GL


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## afinegan (Jan 2, 2008)

TY! 


Ahh, there all 250+ miles away from me lol, maybe the local pinch-a-penny's have them and just aren't listed, maybe my next visit to my fathers house (in deland) Ill have to pickup some from the orlando location. 


Andrew


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## steamtom1 (Jan 2, 2008)

I found this bag of "*Horticultural Charcoal*[/i]" at a local landscape store. It cost about six bucks for a 680 gram bag, but it does have a "*100 % Money Back Guarantee*[/i]". I guess it means that if it doesn't work in my Roundhouse/Shawe Jack I can get my money back. 

I don't think I paid much more than that for my 4000 gram bag of Cowboy Charcoal.


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## Dave -- Use Coal (Feb 19, 2008)

Tom,

I hope you have better luck with the *Horticultural Charcoal *than I did. I once bought some and found it in pieces way to small to use in a coal fired engine. It did not go to waist. It is now in my wife's flower garden.


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## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

2 pounds, 2 bucks - pre-coated in paraffin; picked up at local Lowes. Note: take charcoal out of bag before lighting.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By xo18thfa on 14 Apr 2010 07:09 PM 
OK, here is the dumb question of the day: Does anyone burn wood in a Ga 1?? How about real charcoal (not briquettes)??

Tks, Bob 



AFAIR from my steam learning days as a child, even best willow/mesquite charcoal has less than one-fifth the calorific value of Welsh steam coal. No harm in trying though......a pound of coal or five pounds of best charcoal.

In the same firebox?

Hmmmmmmmmmm

tac
www.ovgrs.org
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By tacfoley on 05 Aug 2010 05:59 AM 
Posted By xo18thfa on 14 Apr 2010 07:09 PM 
OK, here is the dumb question of the day: Does anyone burn wood in a Ga 1?? How about real charcoal (not briquettes)??

Tks, Bob 



AFAIR from my steam learning days as a child, even best willow/mesquite charcoal has less than one-fifth the calorific value of Welsh steam coal. No harm in trying though......a pound of coal or five pounds of best charcoal.

In the same firebox?

Hmmmmmmmmmm

tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund 


Hi Terry: The concern is finding Welsh coal. Seems to harder to find every day. Another question is the firebox. Which is better: long narrow deep or short shallow wide?


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## Jim Schulz (Aug 10, 2009)

For Welsh coal, what Dave Orwig said on April 14 took the words right out of my mouth: "I recently got 10lbs of welsh coal from Cole's, Just pick up the phone and dial (409) 547-3400." I paid $1 per pound.


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## Steve Shyvers (Jan 2, 2008)

I followed this thread with interest and noted the comments about charcoal and Andrew's info about the firebox dimensions on his coal-fired Ruby. This past weekend I experimented with firing my Billy conversion on The Original Charcoal Company's "Rancher" brand hardwood briquettes from Argentina. I bought these a few months back at a local hardware store because the bag said "hardwood" and the store said "50% off". 

With this charcoal it was possible to raise steam to 60 psi blowoff, and the loco would chug happily down the track. Unhappily I'm still having trouble with a leaking clack valve on the boiler and replenishing the boiler water required frequent stops and intervention. Therefore I really didn't find out whether charcoal alone would sustain a decent enough fire to let the Billy run on its own for more than a few times around the track (approx 65 ft each circuit). 

The Billy's firebox is 1.75" long, 1.625" wide, and 1.5" deep from below the firedoor to the top of the grate, so it's possible to build a big bed of coals with either charcoal or coal. My firing method is first to put in 6 small shovelfulls of dry charcoal and then 3 small shovelfulls of charcoal that's been soaked in kerosene for 24 hours or more. Top that off with 2 shovelfulls that have been soaked in alcohol, and then light it. When the charcoal has formed a bed of coals on the top then add more charcoal, or start putting in coal. This method hasn't failed me yet, but the secret of success is probably the oversize firebox. I do use an electric chimney fan, of course. 

By the way a "small shovelfull" of coal or charcoal is probably 3 to 5 pieces that each will pass through a 1/2" sieve but won't pass through a 1/4" sieve. I made a set of sieves from some scraps of "hardware cloth" screening and old tin cans (roughly quart size). 

Steve Shyvers


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Steve Shyvers on 11 Aug 2010 03:11 PM 
I followed this thread with interest and noted the comments about charcoal and Andrew's info about the firebox dimensions on his coal-fired Ruby. This past weekend I experimented with firing my Billy conversion on The Original Charcoal Company's "Rancher" brand hardwood briquettes from Argentina. I bought these a few months back at a local hardware store because the bag said "hardwood" and the store said "50% off". 

With this charcoal it was possible to raise steam to 60 psi blowoff, and the loco would chug happily down the track. Unhappily I'm still having trouble with a leaking clack valve on the boiler and replenishing the boiler water required frequent stops and intervention. Therefore I really didn't find out whether charcoal alone would sustain a decent enough fire to let the Billy run on its own for more than a few times around the track (approx 65 ft each circuit). 

The Billy's firebox is 1.75" long, 1.625" wide, and 1.5" deep from below the firedoor to the top of the grate, so it's possible to build a big bed of coals with either charcoal or coal. My firing method is first to put in 6 small shovelfulls of dry charcoal and then 3 small shovelfulls of charcoal that's been soaked in kerosene for 24 hours or more. Top that off with 2 shovelfulls that have been soaked in alcohol, and then light it. When the charcoal has formed a bed of coals on the top then add more charcoal, or start putting in coal. This method hasn't failed me yet, but the secret of success is probably the oversize firebox. I do use an electric chimney fan, of course. 

By the way a "small shovelfull" of coal or charcoal is probably 3 to 5 pieces that each will pass through a 1/2" sieve but won't pass through a 1/4" sieve. I made a set of sieves from some scraps of "hardware cloth" screening and old tin cans (roughly quart size). 

Steve Shyvers 





Steve: Thanks for this example. I think charcoal may be worth a try. It seems to me your deeper firebox is better.

Bob


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