# Two Story Clapboard Building (notsurewhatitis)



## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll try this again, but I'm sorely tempted not to...  

I've had some glued up 1X4 panels hanging around for a bit now, which have gone through the thickness planer, 15 degree, 3/4" dado cutting to mimic clapboard siding, and now I decided it was time to get creative.

Most of the others that got the dadoing treatment also received some mind numbing Dremel saw activity to make them into shingled roofing panels.  However, I digress again.

This one plank (three 1X4s biscuit joined at the edges) has been begging for attention, so I got bizzy with the whirlying silver colored disc, with no clue as to what this thing will turn out to be.  I'm open to suggestions....

The only problem was that at roughly two stories tall, It either was going to need a flat roof, or I was going to be making up more panels that were five 1x4s edge to edge.

I chose option "C".

I cut some lengths (sides and ends), and kept a salvage piece the same width as the two ends.  These were biscuit joined onto the tops of the end pieces after trimming all of the pieces to the same height dimmension, (clearing off the "rough" or uneven edges),

It's gonna be tallish, with two levels (floors) with windows , and an "attic" set of windows in the gable ends.

Then I had to figure out how to join the corners, and keep everyting together.  I don't even want to discuss the "learning experience" that I've received from my first project using the "shingled" look of the 15 degree, 3/4" dado trick.  Can you spell pagoda?  Or double sided ski jump??

Bisquits it is, to which I'll be adding in some corner blocks from top to bottom.  Plus some other internal blocking/bracing to keep all the wood "cross-stressed"  (NO!!  Not "cross-dressed".  Preverts...)

Here's where I am so far.














































Remeber the discussion about thickness planer and dado cutting??  That removes material, and if you don't do a test cut in a "scrap" area, you'll find out that you've blown through your work piece, even if you're set to a "0" sized bicuit...  Just like the above picture.  Glad I wuz thinking today...  As it turned out, a few of the cuts actually *did* come through, but only in little "spots".  I can recover on those, as they are hardly noticeable.  Just got to look out for glue squeezing out...



















You'll have to imagine the peaked roof.  Figure about 45 degree angle (whatever that equates to in pitch for you carpenters out there.  I suppose that's a 12-12??).



















Anyway, I'll add to this as I can, and am open to suggestions for it's purpose.  The dimensions are not quite correct for Reilley's Jewelry and Pawn Shop (or whatever I originally called it), but let's have what you think.  Other than the gallon 'o gas and a match deal, okay??   /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif

Thanks kidz!!


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## Mike Reilley (Jan 2, 2008)

Ahem....I believed we spoke about this earlier.....and there were other store names suggested

Stan's Silver Works
Dwight's Machine Shop
Dawg's Custom Cabinets
Weiners and Dogs -- J. Francis Proprietor
Cederleaf's Sign Shop
JJ's Hat and Snake Skin Shop
P. Ennis Construction
Stan and JJ's School of Locomotive Operations
JJ's Jerky and Leather Tanning Company


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

LOOKS GREAT! I am really proud of you for carrying out this technique. I didn't biscuit the corners. I considered a spline, but decided to glue and shoot with brads. I was dealing with the board and battens. 

Are you going to cut windows after it is assembled? If so how are you going to cut them? 

Cutting the gables after assembly is certainly OK. 

Will this be finished for our visit or will you be looking for some worker bees?


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Mike, 
Thanks for the reminders... 

I'm saving the Silver related aspects to honor my Aunt who lives in Newport Beach, and is a collector of siver antiquities. 
She has expressed surprising interest in the garden rr thingy going on over here, and I thought it would please her to know she was recognized by dedicating a building to her. 
Depending on how it turns out, this one might be hers... 
Thanks again for the kick in the head to get me thinking...   

Dick, 
Thank you. 
The sides/ends are simply in place to validate that I have adequate depth in the cuts for the #0 biscuits to work without modification. 

The window openings and gables will be marked and cut "pre-assembly", as I've got to pay attention to the orientation of the window sill to the bottom/top edges of the siding "planks", plus then back relieve the window openings for proper recess with the router table. 

It may not be done by Mayday, but if close enough, I'll set it out for "effect" or "population" of the layout. If not, I may just bring it out of the garage for folks to ctitique. I'll not subject visitors to a Tom Sawyer "escapade"...   /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif

Every step is a learning experience, and every 'finished' building gives me ideas of how to do the next one better.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif


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## Matt Vogt (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks like a great start, whatever the end result, Duncan! I'll be looking forward to updates. This will definitely be filed away in the 'future project ideas' bin.


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## Richard Smith (Jan 2, 2008)

I think I'd just honor all of the listed gentlemen... 

_Stan's Silver Works 
Dwight's Machine Shop 
Dawg's Custom Cabinets 
Weiners and Dogs -- J. Francis Proprietor 
Cederleaf's Sign Shop 
JJ's Hat and Snake Skin Shop 
P. Ennis Construction 
Stan and JJ's School of Locomotive Operations 
JJ's Jerky and Leather Tanning Company_ 

....and make it an *Old Geezer's Home* 
[][][]


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mike Reilley on 02/23/2008 6:54 PM
*P. Ennis* Construction

Lest you don't get overinflated with your own creativity, I've been hearing that one ever since junior high school.


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## carpenter matt (Jan 3, 2008)

Duncan, You could add corner boards by running the building back trough the table saw with dado blades to inset the board a little. On the windows, make a template out of flat sock the size you want the opening for the the window casing and sill then use a plunge router to route that out with a bearing over straight bit(cut to depth need for trim. then make another to fit in that opening so it's locked in( create a rabit on template) then plge all the way trough. Just make sure to keep the templates square and use centerlines on them for easy alignment.


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## Chuck Reynolds (Jan 2, 2008)

How about a boarding house


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

I like it, a board-ing house.


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## joe rusz (Jan 3, 2008)

That is one hefty house! Wish I knew my way around a woodworking shop like you do. Heck, I wish I had a woodworking shop.


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Bits at a time, Joe, bits at a time. 
There is a ton of "how to" on this site, and it has helped me in ways I can't really describe. 
Work your way into it, and grow from there. 
(i refuse to take credit for the inspirations given to me from others before me...)


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## pimanjc (Jan 2, 2008)

Duncan,
I am impressed with your woodworking skills.

See ya on Chat.

JimC.


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

So I've gotten a little bit more done...

Built a template for the rough openings for some of the Grandt Line windows that will be in this, and after some initial testing, started to hack away at the buildings walls.

Old moto:  Measure with a micrometer, mark with a pin scribe, and cut with a chain saw...

Didn't turn out too badly for a first effort (so far).

The sequences are:

1. Template in place
2. Cutting with the roto tool
3. Dang, another hole!!
4. Must trim the hole (easier to make it bigger, rather than smaller)
5. Test fit
6. Two down, twenty more to go...























































After all the window and door openings are made, I'll run the building panels through the router table to back relieve the openings, to make the wall thicknesses seem less than they really are...

I'm finding pleasure in being more precise in my markings, cuts, and trimming.  The template really eliminates the weandering of the roto tool's bit, and the Dremel Tool flex shaft is a definite "must HAVE" for anyone scratch building anything for their layout...  

I knew I could do a "clean" job if I took the time, hence the mad rush is *not* on with this one.  If it's done in time for the convention, great.  If not, I won't be distressed.  Folks can view it as a project underway...

More to come later...


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## blackburn49 (Jan 2, 2008)

Slick! I like the technique--the way it all comes together. In fact, I'm taking mental notes.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Hey Duncan. looking good , and a good way to cut out the opening, If you want some kind of unusual window shape for your building, and you can not find the shape commercially,  I can cut you any shape out of wood or plastic on the laser machine. So keep up the good work, I will be looking forward in seeing future progress.
Dennis


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks great! I didn't route out the back on my lumber mill. You really can't see it. Besides I was concerned that the different thickness could cause the wood to act diiferently. I did dadoe the edge of the roof so that it didn't appear to thick at the edge. The only spot which appears to show any movement (after sitting outside for almost a year now) is at the ridge end of the gable. There was no easy way to fasten that thin end. 

My technique on the window openings was to pay my son to cut them on his scroll saw. 

I am planning on driving a couple thousand miles just to see this.


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Dennis, 
I'll get in touch about cutting/lasing some styrene. Another member has offered some CNC work, but I've been slow getting back to him, and need to figure out what I need... 
If you're local to Gilbert, a "look-see" might ease the translation... 

Dick, 
Roger on the scroll saw concept, but I was having mental trouble in how to ensure that I maintained appropriate alignment with the edges (horizontal) of the siding. The best way I could figure out a way around the issue was a template. If you look closely a the template, I have notches at the top and bottom to see where the upper and lower edges of the cast windows line up with the horizontal edges of the clap boards... Helps visually "index" the placement of the cuts, and still maintain proper alignment... 
As far as relieving the back side of the openings, I had planned on using a 1/4" rabbet cutting bit, which will minimize the amount of material removed aroune the openings, yet grant the illusion of a very "thin" wall. 
Coupled with interior stiffening ribs, I think I'll be okay, but I'll sit down and analyze the potential for irrational "shift"... 
We'll know more later. 

And to not seem disinterested or ungrateful, your comment of the multi K drive is taken as a very high compliment. Thank you... 

Hope the product you see is not a disappointment (here, have some food instead). This building has a secondary (and more significant) meaning for me, and I want to do it "right"...


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Had a litle more phun today.
Punchin' holes...










The clamping grid on the portable work table came in handy for cutting out the windows...










A quicky stand up to give an idea of what things will be moving towards as a finished project.  There will be a double door with transom in between the two lower eight lite windows...










With all these windows, there should be plenty of light shining out...

Next up will be trimming the holes up so that the windows will fit, then the back relieving of the window openings, and before I assemble the sides together, internal reinforcement (blocking and such).

Should this thing be going into the builders blogs???


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you say a "double hung" door? I think you really meant a double door. Windows are double hung. 
Pure harrasment. Looks great!! I didn't mean to apply pressure to have it done by convention.


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Yeah, double door (fixed the above post), with a transom above.
Musta been braggin' about the hung part...  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif

No pressure exerted, nor sensed.  I'm finally having some "phun" out in the shop, watching this thing emerge from a mental picture into something tangible...

Now I just gotta wave the magic card around and get the balance of the exterior features (windows and door) in hand to keep moving forward.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Duncan
On the custom window or door, Just a rough sketch with measurments is all I need, I'll cut it out and send to you.
Gillbert is just a skip and a hop away after a 1700 mile drive








Catcha latter Dennis, in The show me state


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Okay, the window openings have been ground out to size, and now I'm at a stage where I'll ask for comments or advice.

My intent was to back relieve the openings to reduce the wall thickness, but I'm having second thoughts as to the wisdom of that...

Reason being, with one-by (1X) stock, rabbeting (i think that's what i'm doing) still leaves a ridge/thick wall visible at some angles, and reduces the mass of the structure itself (from a structural perspective).

A work around will be to lightly sand the inside suface of the glazing, giving them a translucent effect.  In short, you won't be able to see in, yet the interior lighting will shine through.



















I still will be installing some vertical ribs between the windows (base to peak) whose purpose wil be to maintain straightness of the panels themselves, which seem to be prone to "warping"  when exposed to moisture, in addition to the corner joint reinforcements.

I'm starting to lean towards the translucent window glazing.

Comments???


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Dennis,
Thanks for the offer.  (didn't realize you were all the way over by the middle of the country...)
Lemme get squared away on some stuff, and see what it is that I really need.
Maybe we could sit down and sketch when you come out???


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## Richard Weatherby (Jan 3, 2008)

Here is my window with ripple glass to disguise the interior.

Your bevelled edge or chamfer looks just fine.


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## denray (Jan 5, 2008)

Duncan
Your wall is looking great, personally I think you are your biggest critic, the wall being thick will probably never be noticed, unless you locate it at a height off the ground that a person could see by bending over just a little. If you place it at foot level and you have a critic that is critsizing your work "KICK" their butt when they are down that low. 
Another thought for supporting your walls to help prevent warpage, is to build a room in the corner, two boards fastened together and fastened to the wall. This will also provide at night the look of a room closed off and light off, or a light on in that room only, or set it up for a room on both floors with there light off. 
I would be more than glad to talk about custom windows or doors, at the convention. 
Dennis


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## chaingun (Jan 4, 2008)

Duncan, 
I said it before and I will again - you da man!. I love this project and your attention to detail is outstanding. I hope to post next week my newest addition to the GYT&S - Captain Ted’s Crab Shack. Our add slogan is .. We got da crabs! 
Best, Ted


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## H-man (Jan 4, 2008)

Duncan, 
Glad to see your efforts displayed on the little screen with your usual entertaining wit. 

Keep it coming 

Howard


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, after being stalled for a number of weeks, waiting for Grandt Line products from Oak Ridge Hobbies (that's unuther story...), the last component that I needed to verify the measurement of arrived. 

That would have been the double (hung or otherwise) door. 

I did an initial layout of the opening, based upon the dimensions on the Grandt Line website, and rather than commit to making a hole before I had the parts to install on hand, I waited. 

And waited. 

But then one day, a box did arrive (having been forwarned by a Quantum View alert). The door set (doubly unhung) was in there, as were most of the windows I needed to finish the building, and a chimbbly, for visual efect only... 

The balance of the window may arrive this next month(s) or so... 

Anyway, the door set (incredibly unhung, given all the parts that were in that single bag) measured out precisely to the dimensions that had been described on the Grandt Line site, so I could have gotten away with cutting the hole, parts unseen or fondled. 

My luck, they would have sent a pair of single doors (hung or not, I don't care at this point), which would have been a real bummer. Sorta like substituting two dwarfs for one Shaquile O'Neal. No gain. 

So parts in hand, measurements verified, and electricity still on to the house, I cut the remaining opening in the buildings wall, and finally got the walls braced, bisquited, glued, bradded and clamped tonight. 

Oh, also dimensionally cut the roof panels, bevel cut to make a 30 degree pitch, and carved out a ridge beam (out of 2X4) for the roof panels to be supported by from underneath. The roof is gonna weight a ton, but it shouldn't blow off.. 

Here we are, all clamped up and sitting for the next 24 hours (or so)... 



















Next up will be rabbet cutting the eaves on the roof panels, once I have the clearances measuered and marked. 

(we don't want to get into why I am sooooo glad that I had extra roof panels done. let's just say that I'll be making shake shingled roofs for an out house or two...)


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2008)

i adore two things on these photos. 
the precisionbuilt house and the well equipped workshop. 
and? do you allready know, what you built? 
courthouse? 
school? 
hospital? 
social club? 
(to name the most basics) 

two storeys, no false front, solid apearance... to me it looks like a courthouse.


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## Duncan (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By kormsen on 04/15/2008 2:26 AM
i adore two things on these photos. 
the precisionbuilt house and the well equipped workshop. 
and? do you allready know, what you built? 
courthouse? 
school? 
hospital? 
social club? 
(to name the most basics) 
two storeys, no false front, solid apearance... to me it looks like a courthouse.




Thanks for the compliments... 

Still working on my clamp "inventory expansion"... 

If this building turns out the way I have envisioned (appearance/quality/etc.) it will be the "G.M. Thomson Silversmith & Assay Office", in honor of my elderly aunt who is an ardent antique silver collector. Spoons, goblets, calling card trays, and other assorted things from a time gone by... 

She has expressed an interest in the railroad, wants to know what changes have been made since we last talked, and thinks that it is absolutely wonderful that a grown man plays in the dirt with his trains... She's always been a free spirit. And a psychologist... 

If it doesn't come out the way I want, then it might become a bank or grange office... 

As far a social clubs, we already have the Donner Pass Gentlemen's Club (since renamed, but i'm in negotiations to restore it's original status...) /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2008)

i hope for you and your aunt, that it will be 100%. 
(because a clapboarded bank would not get my savings) 

and if you want to use even more clamps, you should build "L" or "U" shaped buildings. ;-)


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