# New Ruby needs some upgrades



## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

Hello everyone, and happy holidays!

My wife bought me an Accucraft Ruby kit for Christmas, I have since assembled it and after reading many threads, including the ones about adjusting the valve gear, reversing the eccentrics, and then cleaning a tiny piece of debris from the jet, it is running very well and smoothly. It still needs the tiniest little bit of valve adjustment, but it is very, very close to perfect. 

I would like to add a pressure gauge and a water level gauge to it. I realize that neither of these is specifically necessary for the Ruby, but I would like to have them for more information as to how things are running. 
I have been looking at the various gauges available, and reading many, many posts about this, but I haven't found specifics about what I need. 
What pressure does a stock Ruby run?
What is the thread size and pitch on the steam trunk (is that the right term?). 
I would like to make the siphon tube myself, as it will be a very simple first silver-soldering project. 
Where can I get the fittings for that?
Are there threads already about people doing this? I tried to find them but was unsuccessful. 

Matt, happily steaming in Olympia


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

Accucraft offers a pressure gauge and connector for the Ruby. On the site they are separate, when I bought mine they came as a kit. This is one option.

Accucraft pressure gauge: *AP-21151
Pressure gauge connector (syphon): **AP-21153

When mine was mounted is was a simple process of removing a bolt from the banjo (I think that is what it is called), putting some sealer on the ends of the connector and screwing it all together.

Hope this helps.
*


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

I have gauges I stock. I have them made in the UK in. 0-100psi I range. I also have a regner syphon you can use or just solder a pipe to the cap nut and to the ferrule that comes with my gauge. The stock Accucraft gause is the gauge only no nut or ferrule. I cal also give you a small length of tubing for making the syphon. 

As to pressure I run at 60. You can upgrade the stock safety and alao add a goodall valve. No easy water gauge options. All require soldering in two new bushings. And the flue is right at the bottom.


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

Thank you for the quick replies! I will be ordering up that pressure gauge and Goodall valve soon. 

At one point in my searching I found a picture where the lower boiler mount had been drilled through for the lower sight glass fitting. That is probably beyond my skill level right now, however I would like to do something like that eventually. 

My Ruby developed a new trick last night. Steam is leaking out from behind the front cylinder head(?) it's the round plate with four bolts on the forward end of the cylinder. I removed the front beam and gently snugged the bolts down with no improvement. 
It appears that some sort of gasket or sealant will be needed. 
What can I use to reseal this joint?


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## Larry Green (Jan 2, 2008)

Matt
After you are satisfied with the engine's performance, you may want to add/change cosmetic details to make it your own. Check out tracksidedetails.com for lost-wax brass details. Where adhesive is called for, J B Weld will work fine with the heat and oil. On my modified Roundhouse 2-6-2 (shown at below left) miniature rivets and bolts were used where possible, but many of the details are installed with J B Weld. None have come off after 10 years. (PS-use the original grey JBW rated for above 400 degrees. A clear 5-min. version has no stated temp. rating, so I'm not sure it is suitable for steamers.)

Larry



Larry


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

Thanks Larry,
Eventually my little Ruby will become a logging engine. I just need to build a set of logging disconnects for it. 

Cheers,
Matt


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## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

Matt hi, operating pressure of Ruby is 30-40psi so a stock accucraft 0-80 psi will work fine.
I highly recommend to change piston o rings with new silicone, for much better slow performance and don't forget to add a summerlands chuffer. As for the leak from cylinder head is pretty common on Rubys i quess, maybe a different type of homemade gaskets will work. Visit my page to see what i done to my Ruby with lot of help from this page.
www.thomasworkbench.com

Thomas


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

Thank you Thomas. 

Where can I find silicone piston rings? And a Summerlands chuffer is on my short list of upgrades. 

I pulled the side rods off to check for binding now that everything has run in several times. The engineer's side valve was binding slightly, so I tweaked the valve rod slightly until it operated freely. 
Hopefully that will help things at really low speed as well. It certainly explains the bind that wouldn't change with adjustments. 
I'm going to try making new cylinder gaskets out of a portrait of George Washington I found laying around. 

Is there an advantage to running a higher boiler pressure? In my understanding it seems like it would waste fuel heating the boiler to a higher temperature if I don't need the extra horsepower (gerbil power). Or is there more to it?


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

I had a chance to spend some time with the Ruby yesterday. After installing new cylinder gaskets there was still a large steam leak from the right side cylinder. It turned out that I had not sufficiently tightened the valve block mounting screws, as I was concerned about stripping the Phillips head fasteners. 
It turns out I was to conservative in my torque. A bit more elbow grease sealed up the offending gasket. Now the low speed performance is even better. I have it down to about one revolution per one and a half seconds on air. Not quite as good under steam, but I understand that's to be expected. 
I think the next step will be to upgrade the throttle and fuel valves. 

I can see why live steam is so addictive!


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## gordini (Jan 12, 2012)

I think Jason kovac send me those "green" silicon o rings but I am not sure, so please ask him.
There is no need of increasing boiler pressure, at top stream ruby is quite powerful and fast.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

dmcchaser said:


> I had a chance to spend some time with the Ruby yesterday. After installing new cylinder gaskets there was still a large steam leak from the right side cylinder. It turned out that I had not sufficiently tightened the valve block mounting screws, as I was concerned about stripping the Phillips head fasteners.
> It turns out I was to conservative in my torque. A bit more elbow grease sealed up the offending gasket. Now the low speed performance is even better. I have it down to about one revolution per one and a half seconds on air. Not quite as good under steam, but I understand that's to be expected.
> I think the next step will be to upgrade the throttle and fuel valves.
> 
> I can see why live steam is so addictive!


Actually it should run better on steam then air. Check to make sure that you valves are aligning up with the scribe line on the valve it will just touch the valve chest when at the correct full depth. Reversing valve is adjusted the same. It should be forward being you reversed the eccentrics.

As to the orings, I have silicone orings available for the pistons as they improve the resistance to the bore. A little softer and they last a lot longer than the stock ones there which are Buna I believe.

Replacing the safety with a 60psi valve is all that's needed. though if you keep the gas level to run at about 40-50psi its perfect, you never waste steam as the safety never lifts.


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

I'm well on my way to modifying my Ruby. 
I have a pressure gauge and a siphon tube, now I just need to figure out what thread pitch the steam outlet on the Ruby has and collect a fitting for that end of the tube. 
Are the fittings on the Ruby standard or metric?

Also, what sort of torch do folks use to solder this small tube. I have an oxy acetylene rig with a 000 tip that works, it just feels a bit like using a sledgehammer to swat mosquitos.


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## Kovacjr (Jan 2, 2008)

Post a photo of the turret. I thought there was a cap on a male stub on all kits. That may have changed since my old kit. If its a plug then I have a M5 double ended male stub fitting for ya. I'm on my way to Diamondhead so cant mail it till I get back. Also a small butane or propane torch is all you need. Dont overheat it.


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## dmcchaser (Dec 31, 2015)

I'm away from the house right now. This picture I found online is identical to the steam turret on my Ruby. 
It appears to be two female ports (one blocked by the main steam line) with male threaded plugs in them.


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## HMeinhold (Jan 2, 2008)

Jason,
I have to partially disagree with your comment:
"Actually it should run better on steam then air".
At least for low speed air is much better than steam, as it does not condense. The surface to volume ratio gets worse with smaller cylinders, causing condensation and loss of torque at low speed. 
Regards


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