# Using bullhead rail for US narrow gauge



## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Hi, I have recently discovered code 250 stainless steel rail that is made in the UK. The thing is that it is bullhead, so there is a narrow base. I am planning on hand-spiking it to wooden ties, would spiking be made more difficult and how good would it look? I still plan on using SVRR code 250 aluminium for turnouts. I costs me £2 for aluminum and £1.70 for the Cliff Barker bullhead stainless steel per yard.

As any-one had experience with this kind of rail?

Many Thanks, Alec.


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Alec; 

I don't know of any bullhead rail being used in North America for narrow gauge track, but there could be an obscure example. Bullhead rail was favored for some time in England and continental Europe because when the top railhead wore too much, it could be flipped over to use the unworn bottom railhead. This type of rail was not spiked to the ties, but was set into a special "chair," which was then fastened to the ties (sleepers). My guess is that you will find out very quickly that this type of rail does not stay fastened to the ties very well with spikes alone. You will most likely need the special chairs to mount the bottom railhead to the ties. 

Hope this helps, 
David Meashey


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By alecescolme on 22 Apr 2011 12:46 PM 
Hi, I have recently discovered code 250 stainless steel rail that is made in the UK. The thing is that it is bullhead, so there is a narrow base. I am planning on hand-spiking it to wooden ties, would spiking be made more difficult and how good would it look? I still plan on using SVRR code 250 aluminium for turnouts. I costs me £2 for aluminum and £1.70 for the Cliff Barker bullhead stainless steel per yard.

As any-one had experience with this kind of rail?

Many Thanks, Alec.


Alec,

I agree with everything Dave said. I abandoned my bullhead chairs when I started modelling US narrow gauge. i think you'll find it very difficult to spike it so it stays in place.

On the other hand - what's wrong with chairs and keys, if you are in the UK anyway? My garden layout had code 215 on 1/32nd scale track bases at one side of the garden, so the 1/29th - 1/32nd scale standard gauge trains looked good, and big black 1/24th ties with code 250 rail on the other side. I made my switches/points to match the 1/24th scale. You can't stand on both sides at once, so the illusion works.

[As an aside, many ng modellers use code 215 rail on F scale ties - I have some myself, representing 60 lb rail. But EBT used mainline standard rail as they had big heavy trains - 80 lbs - so code 250 would be fine. There are charts of rail sizes, etc., on Ricks "da trains" website: http://www.urbaneagle.com/datrains/]


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks for the comments and advice, Dave and Pete. 

The reason that I do not want to use the chairs is because I think that they do not resemble US spike plates and the chair goes high up to the top of the rail. I will be running exclusively US trains, even though I am in the UK! I feel that the Tenmille code 215 flat-bottom chairs are a compromise in appearance, but are incompatible with 250 bullhead. 

Is there a way to cut down the bullhead chairs to make them look like spike plates? If not I will just use SVRR code 250 alumium with spikes or Tenmille chairs.

Thanks, Alec.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Is there a way to cut down the bullhead chairs to make them look like spike plates? 
Alec, 
Seems doubtful, as there is nothing to take the spikes or hold the rail. 

I'd be more concerned about the rail rotating / twisting from the vertical. The key in the bullhead chair keeps everything upright, but if you use spikes there doesn't seem to be anything that will hold it up. 

There have been reports of rail being glued down. I would experiment with some O-scale spike plates, which should have closer spike holes, and put some glue on the foot of the rail as you spike it. 

Many vendors will send you a 'trial kit' of about 3" rail and some ties/sleepers or chairs/tie plates. I have a whole box, including some Tenmille brass bullhead and various kinds of chairs. You could try to get some 'trial kits' so you could experiment


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like it might not be worth the trouble and issues. I will ask my UK supplier if he can get all of the code 250 aluminium rail I need, if not I will look into getting it imported from the US. 

Alec.


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## Andre Anderson (Jan 3, 2008)

Alec,

Just for you information most if not all narrow gauge railroads were built with out tie plates, the rail got spiked directly to the tie (sleeper). The reason being that these were low dollar operations, logging railroads usually did last long enough to need tie plates, the typical Colorado line did not have the money.


Andre


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Alec, 

Isn't there any O-scale flat-bottom UK rail that is about 1/4" tall (code 250?) I would have thought UK mainline concrete sleeper track was pretty robust (tall) so it may be usable.


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## alecescolme (Dec 20, 2010)

Andre, I have not used plates on my turnouts, but I might use them on my hand-laid regular track- to save time. I can make a jig to drill holes and just press the plates into the ties. Time vs. Prototypical appearance. 

Pete, The biggest rail that I have found (apart from SVRR, Accucraft, Peco and Cliff Barker) is the code 215 Tenmille (flat-bottomed). The O gauge rail that I have found is code 124 to 215. Code 215 is good and cheap, but I would rather have 250. I have some code 332 flex track and handmade turnouts in one area and I want the change to be as unnoticeable as possible. 

Thanks for the suggestions- given me lots to think about! 
Alec.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

As rail profiles grew... 

Typically branch lines got the used smaller rails as they were replaced, spurs got the replaced branch line rails... so having 3 profiles is/was common. 

John


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