# Best Glue for Repairs?



## KVBarkley (Jan 9, 2009)

What with some high speed derailments and errant soccer balls (and dad setting the car on the barbecue shelf while moving the barbecue...ouch!..can't blame it all on the kids!) things occasionally break off. What is the best glue to repair plastic rolling stock and engines:
Crazy Glue?
Model Airplane glue?
Chewing gum?


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

difficult question, it depends on the material and the geometry of the joint. 

model airplane glue works only on plastics, like styrene, that will dissolve in MEK 

SuperGlue works ok in many situations but doesn't stick to some engineering plastic surfaces like Luran-S. The most important features of a SuperGlue (CA) is that it comes in a small bottle with a good applicator. LocTite brand has a very good applicator, Zap CA is fairly good. 

Epoxy works well on painted surfaces, but the joints often don't look very good. 

See link for more adhesives 

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips5/adhesive_tips.html


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

Like G says, "it depends."


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## KVBarkley (Jan 9, 2009)

I think this is styrene - in any case I will be gluing back where it is broken off so it is the bare plastic. It is an Aristocraft 040 - if that clues anybody in It is the little railing under the cab.


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## George Schreyer (Jan 16, 2009)

Aristo uses mostly ABS which doesn't glue real well with styrene cement. Use CA or epoxy


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

George, my experience has been that the Super Glues that I've used, don't appear to be waterproof. They tend to fail after some time with exposure to the elements. Perhaps on an Aristo engine, that won't matter. Have you had this problem???

Ed


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## jmill24 (Jan 11, 2008)

I believe they make a super glue for outdoor use. I purchased some at WalMart. Look for Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel...............Jim


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## eheading (Jan 5, 2008)

Good info. Thanks, Jim

Ed


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

If it is ABS, use something that contains MEK. MEK melts the ABS so that you have a chemical bond and not just a mechanical bond. One of the best all purpose cements for plastic is *Weld-On #16.*


Russ


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Russ, 

I've got a can of MEK can I use it straight on the ABS? A tight fit with a fine brush? 

I'm bashing a 20' tank (from shorty car) to the frame of the 'sloped back tender, both Aristo. I'm making a water/battery car and wanted 4 wheel trucks under it for my 4-4-0 Jupiter. 

As a side note; Anybody know why the all steel sloped back tender has archbar trucks under it? Seems odd, but in a nice twist of fate as they back date the frame pretty well!


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## aceinspp (Jan 2, 2008)

I have used some PVC glue and tends to work. Later RJD


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## Torby (Jan 2, 2008)

For Aristo's ABS, I like CA. I've proven the Loctite brand quite waterproof, and you won't be soaking your loco in water for weeks. I also use a lot of JB Weld, which is a tough filled epoxy stuff. Locktite CA is NOT smoke-fluid proof, which might be a useful property at times. For CA, you'll want a catalyst as sometimes the locktite can sit for hours waiting for you to let go so the part falls off and instantly glues where you don't want it.


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## Stan Cedarleaf (Jan 2, 2008)

I would side with Russ on *Weldon 16.* That's what I use for most of the repairs on LGB and Bachmann. 
Good old Plumber's Goop works well on larger pieces.


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## bottino (Feb 7, 2008)

I not use SINBAD glue for virtually all my repairs; plastic, wood, glass, ceramics, whatever. I recently used it on our Ice Maker tray in the freezer, and it even holds under freezing temperatures. I usually buy it at ECLSTS, and they were at the national convention in Arizona. I have not found anything better. As for being waterproof, I put six Colorado Model buildings together with it, over a year ago, and nothing has come apart. The buildings have been out in the weather for over a year. It has an accelerator, and if you use that first, as soon as you touch the parts together, they are together. Their web address is www.sinbadglue.net.
Paul


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks guys, but I'm trying to use what I have on hand. 

I have a can of MEK... can I use it straight to weld the shell? 

ca's doesn't have the shear strength I want... I have the acelerator and have used the gel when re-posititioning figures. So I know what it can do. 

Those other glues sound good, but it's a 20 mile drive to get some! see above. 

John 

I've never been to a trainshow...


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, MEK will work on styrene, the method is to use a little as it will soften and melt, so keep that in mind.


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

I've been using straight MEK to solvent weld ABS sheet for about 25 years now. In my opinion, it works better than the glues made for bonding ABS. *TAP Plastics* carries a lot of different glues made for bonding plastic. The *IPS Weld-On #2354* is made spcifically for bonding ABS. But like I said; I think straight MEK works even better.
Russ


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

I would agree that weld on 16 seems to work well. I bought a couple of tubes and have been using it on pola and piko buildings and on rolling stock, seems to work great..


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks Russ, 
That was he answer I was hoping for, on the MEK.

I have one spot where the cut wandered, I think I should be able to 'melt' some plastic with it and make some 'putty' to fill the gap. With a slight overfill for shrinkage.... Anyone forsee problems from that? I'd do the melt on glass and transfer the putty to the gap.

John


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## Russell Miller (Jan 3, 2008)

John,
The "putty" will work, just expect a lot of shrinkage. Usually 3 or 4 applications of the melted ABS is all it takes. Wait for the "putty" to completly cure and shrink before adding another layer. If you try to hurry things you just end up melting and warping too much of the surrounding plastic. The only real problem I've had with this MEK melted ABS technique, besides the melting and warping of the surrounding plastic by trying to rush things







, is that sometinmes you tend to capture small bubbles or voids. If you take your time you can usually avoid these for the most part.
Russ


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks Russ. 
I'll melt some of the removed plastic and take it slow. I have a dental spatula that will allow me to apply smooth layers, fortunately it's only 1/16th", but it's right on top! Murphy's touch... 

I turned down a sleeve from white PVC for the lowered dome, been a while since I've used the Unimat. I bought extra gearheads 10 years ago when I was turning wax for lost wax castings, so I was able to run slow enough that I didn't melt the plastic. Came out great, nice snug fit. Les would have had a good laugh watching me 'machine' that, I had to drape a hand over the headstock and apply slight pressure to keep the spin true! 

John


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Russell Miller on 10 Sep 2009 12:24 PM 
I've been using straight MEK to solvent weld ABS sheet for about 25 years now. In my opinion, it works better than the glues made for bonding ABS. *TAP Plastics* carries a lot of different glues made for bonding plastic. The *IPS Weld-On #2354* is made spcifically for bonding ABS. But like I said; I think straight MEK works even better.
Russ


Interesting, as IPS Weld On 2354 is 90-99% MEK per its MSDS. 

http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/...202354.pdf

Poking around, their #16 is


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