# Not LS, but LS - my 4 inch scale roller project



## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, I know it's the 'wrong' scale (1:3), but I thought maybe you guys might be interested anyway. I've mentioned this thing from time to time, but hadn't actually accomplished much on it since before the big D. Well, we FINALLY went to get the boiler last month from where it had been stored for about 6 or 7 years, rescued the wheels from my ex's basement, and scrounged the engine and governor parts from out of my van....... So, what I have is all in the same place for the first time EVER! I still don't have a 220v circuit run for the welder, or gas for the torches, but at least it is a start. Anyhoo, rather than have the neighbors upset over a bunch of scattered rusty junque in the yard, Kim and I threw a coat of paint at it this afternoon. It may still be scattered junque, but at least it isn't rusty anymore! Kim and my daughter Sara picked the paint scheme. The rolls and gearing will be a dark blue, the engine and bunkers Case 'LC' Grey. -- of course just as we had almost finished the sky opened up and it POURED for half an hour...

Boiler, smokebox and flywheel all looking rather snazzy.The boiler is 10-3/4" in diameter and 4' long. I'd love a curved spoke flywheel instead, but haven't found the right one yet.










A 1/2" injector, and a 2" bronze hand pump will have to do for my 2 means of adding water. The firebox door is smallish 5" x 6" -- I've thought about firing it on kerosene. The grates seem to have gone missing, so I might have to look more into that.










Rear rolls are a pair of threshing machine pulleys. Not what I really wanted, but they were affordable. I may bolt rubber to them to keep them from jarring and breaking.










Front rolls are from a 3-ton or so gas roller. A little large, but for $25 I couldn't resist! I'll be cutting down the frame so the boiler will sit about 4" above the rolls.










A face only a mother could love?










Half a Mason steam car engine will provide power. It's the 'wrong' half, so either the flywheel will be on the left, or the cylinder will be towards the rear... all depends upon what gearing I scrounge up, It's only 2-1/2" x 4" yet should be more than adequate to do some real work (about 1.5 HP).











This 3/4" Gardner governor is really too large, but it's here. Yes, I need to get new weights, they'll cost me $50










Still needed: gearing, bunkers, lubricator, canopy...... and a money tree. But I hope to at least have the boiler mounted on the wheels before Fall so we can move it around without an engine hoist! What will it look like when it's done? Something like a mirror image of this:


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Mik: Sweet, sweet, sweet. You got all the heavy lifting done. What's the bore and stroke?, How much beared down? That machine is way too cool. Good thing the ex did'nt ditch the wheels. There was an old boy in Georgetown Texas that collected tons of this kind of stuff. I know he'd have a curved spoke flywheel. Of course, that was 20 years agao, he may not be around anymore.

Check Martin Model & Pattern. I can't get to his website now, but I think he has flywheel castings your size. 

www.[b]martinmodel.com[/b]

Please keep this project up to date.

Thnaks, Bob


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

2-1/2" bore x 4" stroke. I'll set the governor at 300rpm and the working pressure will be 100psi - from there you can figure the indicated horsepower
(2PLAN/33,000 ie (2 x psi x stroke in FEET x area of piston in sq/in x rpm)/33,000) = 1.48HP


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Interesting Mik. Did you make the boiler, or what are its origins?


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Boiler was made by me to exceed ASME Section I Part PMB standards (I used to have my weld certs...), but is not stamped. I have all the WPS, calculations, and c. in a notebook. The local state inspector is 'certain it's safe', but still not willing to be "the first person to sign off on it". Until I get that first inspection report and a state #, I can run it in Ohio (because it's under 16" in dia), but not in public in Pa ... go figure.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Kim was having some trouble visualizing how it would look (She has an artist's eye for taking photos and drawing, but I guess she can't quite do it in 3 dimensions...), so I did a temporary mock-up last night. I need to make a minor change to the upper water column valve piping, so the engine can go down another inch and back about two....... 










I'm hoping to find some needed bits at the Ashtabula show (Wayne Center, Oh) this weekend.


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## Spule 4 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Mik. Have you built other boilers? This has always interested me for some reason.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Garrett, I built 3 model boilers before my certs lapsed.

Mini update:
We went to Jamestown, Pa today to get some old manure spreader wheels to use for the rear rolls instead of the fragile pulleys. 









One wheel was stuck fast to the axle, so we decided the expedient thing was to just take axle, pillow blocks and all. Then soak it all down with Kroil at our leisure. It cost us gas for the 80 mile round trip, plus $10 and a couple zucchinis for the parts....









The front axle, and one from a husker shredder, will be rescued as well to make a wagon to mount a couple steam pumps on. The rest of it is pretty rough, so the scrap man will probably get it unless somebody has a parts request.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Some progress to show. Not having much (or more precisely any) 'disposable' income makes mooching a necessary evil sometimes. A couple kind gentlemen let me raid their scrap piles for bits of channel and angle.... so now I have a frame. It isn't my best welding, but considering I hadn't struck an arc in 5 years it came out serviceable. 









A little grinding and paint and it looks almost acceptable. I think it will eventually be black.











The front bolster (from a 2 or 3 ton gas roller) needs cut down to clear under the smokebox... but it's some HARD stuff that simply doesn't want to co-operate... That little nick is all I have to show for 15 minutes of trying to cut it with a 'thick metal' sawzall blade.... it took the points off the blade teeth instead. It LOOKS like cast iron, but cuts (or doesn't) almost like hardened steel.











A mock up with the wheels to get dimensions;









Maybe it will be on the frame by fall???


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## Dwight Ennis (Jan 2, 2008)

Looks good Mik! I'll be watching your progress with interest.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I wanted to name it 'Not for Hire'.... which allegedly comes out 'nid ar gyfer llogi' in Welsh... but also Kim suggested 'P`og mo Th`oin' ('kiss my ___' in the Irish) instead..... lol
Can anybody translate the first phrase into Irish or Latin?


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

"Non Pro Operario" would be Latin (I think ... it's been awhile!) 

Also possibly: "Non Conducere" or "Ne Haud Auctorare" 

Latin is a bit dodgy for that kind of thing... particularly if you've only had two years of it, and that over twenty five years ago. 

Mathus (VO)


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## SlateCreek (Jan 2, 2008)

I rather like "Aequatus Viae" ... "Leveler of Roads" 

There's also "Orbisculus Viae" "Roller of roads" 

or 

"Bellua Vaporaria" for "Steam Powered Beast" 

"Orbisculus Vaporarius" for "Steam Roller" 

All kind of catchy. 

I think though after all of this exercise is done, my favorite is probably: 

NEMO ME AUCTORAT (lit. "Nobody hires me!" )


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

English -> Latin translation is no simple matter. Differences in grammar, syntax and mental construction of thoughts are extreme... not just subject verb order/relationship, but the matter of what words are verbs, nouns or adjective/adverb modifiers and how those "parts of speech" get combined in words. There is often absolutely no direct translation from a phrase in one language to a phrase in the other.

I have tried your phrase, "Not for hire", in several on-line translators and none of them can handle it.

Some could only translate the "for" and gave up on the other words, leaving them in English. ("Not pro hire" and "Not loco hire" were the two most common amongst the few I tried.)

None of them could include the "Not" in the phrase, yet by itself it was easy to say that "Not" translates to "Non". It cannot be done as part of the phrase because of the way words ("ideas" really) combine to form words where the meaning is modified by prefixes and suffixes or by completely modifying the word to some form that apparently to the Roman citizen made perfect sense, but to us English speakers is utter befuddlement.

I find that "Hire" can be one of 5 words in Latin:

capio : to rent, hire /seize, arrest. (Possible root word for Engish "Capture")
conduco : hire, employ for wages, or to conduct, lead forth. (Root of "Conductor" - one who helps people on and off, or between, cars of a train.)
latro : (-onis) hired servant / mercenary soldier.
loco : to assign, allot, grant, hire.
redimo : to redeem, ransom, buy back /hire, buy, procure. (Root of English "Redeem".)

Well, I'd say you want the meaning of "employ for wages" so "conduco" is close, maybe "Loco" or "Redimo".

"for" - connecting word - "pro" and "loco" are direct translations for the word but lose all meaning in most any English context.

"Not" - negation - "Non" - again a direct translation, but a Roman Centurian fetched via the "way-back machine" would cock his head sideways, frown, then challenge your citizenship, call you a Barbarian and enslave you with his pointy pike aimed at your noggin. "Non loco conduco" to mean, "Not for hire"... may be Latin words, but are not in the Latin language.

The words "for" and/or "Not" are often an implied meaning in single words, so it is possible that you could find just one Latin word for the 3 word phrase.

To properly translate the short and concise "Not for hire" you will have to first expand it to a much longer set of words that explain what each of the words mean, then find words in Latin that represent those expanded definitions and then shorten it to a concise Latin phrase of fewer words. Such as, "Not for hire" implies:

"This machine is not available to be used by someone who is not the owner, even if they pay the owner a sum of money for that priviledge... So don't even ask!"

You also want to use a set of Latin words that the average English speaker will not misinterpret! Will they translate "Conduco loco non" to something like "train doesn't work" or maybe "Conduco pro non" as "Not a professional conductor"?

I spent close to a year trying to come up with some short, concise Latin phrase to express my like of Steam Locomotives. I finally settled on "Semper Vaporo" because "Semper" might be recognized by people as a word that is used by both the Marine Corps and the Coast Guard in their Mottos to mean "Forever". (Semper Fidelis - Forever Faithful and Semper Paratus - Forever Prepared.) Vaporo does mean "Steam" (see the word "Vapor" in there?), but the "o" on the end implies the steam is "transistioning", or "moving". I could have used a couple of other Latin words, but they COULD imply other meanings that I didn't want to conjure up in the minds of those that read my motto. ("Forever Stinky" and "Always in a fog" being two of them.) Unfortunately, some people just see the "Semper" and think I must be a Marine (I have been saluted!) and others see the "o" on "Vaporo" and think I am Spanish (so I get greeted by, "Aaay, Que pasa? Amigo?").

I used a Latin to Engish dictionary "list" to find my motto's words, so I have been perusing it for something that fits your need. The "Hire" part I listed above. For the "Not" and "for" parts I submit the following for your consideration:

haud : no, not at all, by no means. 
inconcessus : forbidden, prohibited, not allowed.
inexpugnabilis : impregnable, unconquerable, not to be taken by force.
insuadibilis : adamant, immovable, not to be persuaded.
minime : in the least degree, very little/not at all, by no means.
nequaquam : by no means, not at all.
nequaquam : in no wise.
nequeo : not to be able, to be impossible.
nequeo : not to be able.
nequequam : by no means, not at all.
nequiquam : fruitlessly, to no purpose.
nolo : nolle : nolui : to be unwilling, wish not to, refuse.
nolo : to not be unwilling.
non : not.

So, pick your best from the sets of words and see what you can make of it.

inconcessus capio

nequaquam redimo 


But I wonder if maybe the order of the words should be reversed?

capio inconcessus

redimo nequaquam


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

'latro insuadibilis'? Now that would be a mouthful... 

'nequeo redimo' might be more pronounceable, but sounds like a cheap aftershave 

'latro nequeo'? 'nequeo latro'? The second almost sounds like a name for a beer..... might have to break down and pay a real translator yet.


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

My personal preference would be: "Nolo Conduco"

One English->Irish translation generated "Ní ar cíos" which when retranslated from irish to english was translated as "Not Rented"... the funny part is that I did a copy/paste of the irish from what that same translator gave me.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By jgallaway81 on 14 Aug 2010 07:32 PM 
My personal preference would be: "Nolo Conduco"

One English->Irish translation generated "Ní ar cíos" which when retranslated from irish to english was translated as "Not Rented"... the funny part is that I did a copy/paste of the irish from what that same translator gave me.



Language translation is funny business...

When he first computer translation programs were available -- back in the 1960's I believe -- they had an English Russian translator working. They fed in the old adage: "The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak." and had it translated to Russian and then translated the resultant Russian back to English. The result was something along the lines of "The vodka is good, but the meat is rotten." 

When Soviet Premeire Nikita Khrushchev met with American President Kennedy, neither spoke the other's language, so translators were present at all meetings to handle the conversations. The talks were not going well and JFK noticed that often when the translation was being done from English to Russian that Khrushchev would get red in the face and agitated. He asked the translators what they had said and they repeated exactly what he had said. He stopped them and had them RE-translate the Russian of what he had said back into English. It seems the everytime he used the phrase "you are taking an incalculatable risk", the Russian translation was "You are so stupid you cannot count." No wonder lil' Nikki was upset! The translators were not paying any attention to what was being said or why, they were just applying textbook translations.


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## steamboatmodel (Jan 2, 2008)

The ""Bellua Vaporaria" for "Steam Powered Beast" " 
Does have a ring to it, I may use that for a steam boat. 
Regards, 
Gerald.


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## rusty1219 (Jan 17, 2009)

"Bellua Vaporaria" i thought was great

i may have to borrow it for a 7 1/4 loco

looking good Mik with a fire box like that you wont be running out of steam
anytime soon


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By rusty1219 on 15 Aug 2010 05:26 PM 

looking good Mik with a fire box like that you wont be running out of steam
anytime soon





Unless those dinky little 3/4" tubes plug up with soot or sap. I probably SHOULD have used 1" or 1-1/4", but I had a 3/4 roller..... Might have to fire on lump charcoal.... or it might be cheaper in the long run to just pull those tubes, re-drill the tubesheet, and buy a used 1" roller


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

My apologies, to anyone attempting to view the pictures. 

Photobucket has decided to hold my photos for ran$om until the 22nd or until I $end them money. They claim I have exceeded my allotted monthly bandwidth, and expect me to pay to upgrade because of thi$. A$ u$ual, they have offered no proof to $upport their claim$. $ince I'm $ubjected to their paid adverti$ement$ every time I upload a picture, I feel I owe them nothing, but they $till de$ire more.... 

I'll simply post new pics to Kim's account. The others will be back in 5 days


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## Nicholas Savatgy (Dec 17, 2008)

Maybe if you stuck a crow bar in the wallet and paid the bill we could see the pictures??????????????????????????







Of course i kid cause i really do care.................


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Nicholas Savatgy on 17 Aug 2010 06:54 PM 
Maybe if you stuck a crow bar in the wallet and paid the bill we could see the pictures??????????????????????????

Maybe if I stuck a crowbar in my wallet, then at least there would be SOMETHING in it???? We have a quarter tank of gas and 47c to see us through until the 3rd of September. Not complaining, just stating the facts.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Yesterday, a friend if a friend cut the yoke piece off for me. It took about 20 minutes with a power hacksaw.... 

Since I no longer had an excuse to not make progress. I spent the evening mounting the front pedestal bearing brackets and some other bits that absolutely needed to be welded to the frame. 


















Today I finished up welding on the frame and got some help to heave the boiler into place. 


















After looking at it, I need to lower the pivot point on the front end a little over an inch - easy enough; Jack the frame up, pull the front rolls, cut the ears off the top of the roll bracket and drill a new pair of holes through the hollow bracket itself... then reinstall. If everything co-operates (yeah right!) it should take less than an hour


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Yesterday, a friend if a friend cut the yoke piece off for me. It took about 20 minutes with a power hacksaw.... 

Since I no longer had an excuse to not make progress. I spent the evening mounting the front pedestal bearing brackets and some other bits that absolutely needed to be welded to the frame. 


















Today I finished up welding on the frame and got some help to heave the boiler into place. 


















After looking at it, I need to lower the pivot point on the front end a little over an inch - easy enough; Jack the frame up, pull the front rolls, cut the ears off the top of the roll bracket and drill a new pair of holes through the hollow bracket itself... then reinstall. If everything co-operates (yeah right!) it should take less than an hour


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## scottemcdonald (Jan 11, 2008)

Photobucket has decided to hold my photos for ran$om until the 22nd or until I $end them money. 

Switch to Flickr - that's what I did. 

Scott


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

A trip to the local farm and fleet place after grade-5 bolts got a bit spendier than anticipated. They had cast iron fireplace grates. The smaller sized set fit almost perfectly (after I trimmed a single bar off and unbolted the feet). Not as nice as the stolen set, but for $17, if they last more than 5 years it's good.

Trying to decide if making a scarifier will be worth the trouble. It would look cool, but might cause problems with loading. I have to decide yes/no before I cut the rear axle.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Been a busy couple weeks, the weather has been pretty good, so things got done.... until I ran out of cash again! 

I moved the pivot lower on the front roll, and made an engine frame. Then mounted the rear axle. 









The engine mounted - I need to make a front brace yet. 









Mocking up the steering gear. 









The steering wheel was a large valve handwheel that cost $5 at a flea market, I'm probably going to cover the lettering on the rim with epoxy ans file it smooth. 









Good old chain and bolster steering. I need to make/find a lower bracket for the worm shaft. There will be a bunch of side loading so a plain bearing is superior to modern style ones for this. 









hehehe


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## PapaPerk (Nov 7, 2009)

That's looking very cool! Good work! Will be intresting to see it up and running!!!


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Mik: It's looking great, really cool. I can't wait to see this sweetheart flattening out pot holes the city ain't getting to.

Thanks for sharing this. Bob


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## jgallaway81 (Jan 5, 2009)

I'd like to see if it DOES look good 

Can't wait for the bandwidth cap to reset Mik.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Mik: You could save yourself lots of photobucket bandwidth if you take the image out of your Sig file. Every time a PC loads a page you have posted to it will have to access your photobucket account to get that image and over time that can very quickly subtract from your allotment until it is gone.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Time to bring this thread up to speed..... 
Completed bottom steering shaft mounting 









Steering knob from an L Case - not scale but it fits Kim's malformed hand to make it easier for her 









Factory Mason automobile Stephenson's reverse gear 









'New' $15 flywheel.... from a McCormick thresher - looks real good as long as nobody gets the bright idea of hanging a too heavy belt on it. 









$5ea Bull sprockets installed. Pinion sprockets haven't come yet... about 10 feet of #80 chain will have to wait for another payday or two. 









Left side after minor frame adjustment - no more weird geometry. 









It was starting to sleet, so I quit for today.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

No this isn't a "zombie thread", and I have pix to prove it! 

Other projects and generally negative cash flow meant I really didn't get much done on this thing at all last summer. (I scrounged some more parts, but that was about it....) Since our new landlord was being a pain in the butt about it anyway, we had a friend haul the wee beastie to the Portersville Pa steam show grounds a few weeks ago. It will be on display in the steam building there during the summer show in August for those who are interested in examining it. Nothing like an "open house" to motivate you to get busy doing stuff that you've been procrastinating about! Anyway, to the pix! 

A minor project, but it needed doing. I made a bracket to hold up the inside end of the lift for the Stephenson's link reverse. It's just a bit of bar with a bushing welded to it - on the original Mason twin, this part was cast in on top of the other engine frame. It took me a while to figure how to do the offset without it looking totally cobbled. There will be a diagonal brace bolted to the hole to further help hide the joint. 









This photo shows the end result of about 10 hours work just to get things back looking almost exactly how they did before I started.... I never liked the way that the front end sat higher than the rear (I mis-measured the offset needed on the frame when I built it, and didn't notice until the boiler was already mounted. Lesson learned!) Since I couldn't lower the front without a LOT of reworking because of all the stuff that would need removed, I decided it would be "easier" to relocate the rear axle. All I had to do was cut about 1-1/2" reliefs into the channel frame on each side, make sure everything was square, and weld it all back together. The boiler sits within about 1/4" of level now..... Oh, the things we do just for aesthetics. LOL 









While I had the welder out, I (hopefully) permanently mounted the steering gear. Since the recycled 3/4" shafting was a little sprung, I decided a center guide might be a good idea. If it LOOKS like a 3/4" bushing welded to a 3/8" bolt... it probably is. Sometimes the simplest solution is also the most elegantly functional. - especially when you don't have a lathe. 









I'm not sure what this old casting came off of, but I just had to use it for the upper steering bracket. And rather than peen the wheel in place, I welded a washer to the shaft. Just in case I ever need to disassemble it. (Yes, I considered cutting the seat deeper then threading the end of the shaft, but the wheel has very little dish. 









I have most of the parts for the driveline (differential, pinion clutch, etc), and the drawings made for the water tanks, but those things will have to wait for another post.... Hopefully it won't be another 2 years until then.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

So, when will it be running?  
That's quite the project there! A couple of years ago, I went to an annual steam and tractor show up here in my neck of the woods, and 2 people were there with their 1/2 or 1/3rd scale steam tractors that they had running on the grounds. They were about the same size as your project, verry cool engines! 
Which brings up a question, would a hot water tank be usable for the boiler shell of a small boiler? The gas hot water tank is basically a monotube boiler anyway, but would it hold up to a reasonable steam pressure? Of course, it would have to be welded by someone who actually knows what they're doing, but would it be usable for that?


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Amber on 24 Jun 2012 09:14 AM 
So, when will it be running?  
That's quite the project there! A couple of years ago, I went to an annual steam and tractor show up here in my neck of the woods, and 2 people were there with their 1/2 or 1/3rd scale steam tractors that they had running on the grounds. They were about the same size as your project, verry cool engines! 
Which brings up a question, would a hot water tank be usable for the boiler shell of a small boiler? The gas hot water tank is basically a monotube boiler anyway, but would it hold up to a reasonable steam pressure? Of course, it would have to be welded by someone who actually knows what they're doing, but would it be usable for that? 
It'll be running when it's running.... 2012-1997= 15 years and counting on it already. What's another couple years............right?

CAN you build a boiler from an old hot water tank? If you're not too concerned about the safety of yourself or others. You can (and folks have!) build a "boiler" by piping engines up to a pressure cooker, too. but please give me notice when you plan to fire it so I can arrange to be elsewhere.

My suggestion, especially if you're going to go through the expense of having it welded for you, is use your head and spring for all new materials. Seamless steel pipe and plate isn't really all that expensive if you aren't worried about the ASME paperwork. You want dead soft mild steel, not some fancy alloy, so the stuff is widely available. A-53 pipe, A-516 plate and A-106 stay material. --- An "SA" prefix denotes code materials, so if you're going to go through the extra expense for that, make darn sure you get copies of the test reports, and a receipt that shows you purchased that. Without this paper trail, you're on your own if anybody questions it.

The ASME says the minimum shell thickness should be .250". It's a pretty good rule of thumb for most small boilers, too. (at least until you get under about 6" in diameter, then you start running out of water space!) Standard (schedule 40) pipe over 5" in diameter is this thick or thicker.

ALL welds need to be full penetration. multi-pass with plenty of time to cool between passes is preferred to keep the heat affected zone as small as possible. Radiused flanges are generally superior to square butt joints, etc.(sharp corners are stress risers)

The ASME's stress calculations are scattered through 4 different sections, and depending which one you use, you may get different results. (hence the "Always, Sometimes, Maybe.... Except!" moniker, lol!) Ohio has helpfully posted this pdf which has simplified calcs. (they're intended to for use on existing antique boilers, they're also mighty helpful with design questions on model ones) http://www.oaboa.org/images/oaboa_proposal_12_22_08.pdf scroll down. 
Rule of thumb, it's always better to have a stress calculation come out higher than you intend to run. The shell on mine is .365" (3/8") minimum. The "weakest" part of my boiler works out to being good to 400psi - even with the generous margin of safety already built into the equations. On other parts the math comes out to 1000psi or even higher. Even though to stay under ASME section I part PMB, I'll be limited to 100psi max operating pressure.


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## Amber (Jul 29, 2011)

So basically, you're saying don't use a hot water tank, OK. You say that schedule 40 pipe is generally thick enough for a boiler? I have a piece of 10 inch schedule 40 pipe that was 5 feet long before I cut it in half to use half for a different project, so I have a piece that's about 30 or so inches long. I was thinking of a vertical boiler possibly. Probably easier to build than a horizontal boiler, especially if the firebox is "dry". I'm not looking for lots of pressure, 60-80 PSI would be fine. 
I got the 10 inch schedule 40 pipe from a well drilling place, but I don't know what the type of steel is. I do know that it's galvanized on the outside.


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## xo18thfa (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice work Mik. That will be a blast to drive.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't it figure, I made some good progress today despite the heat, but forgot the camera..... 

The big project was a new crankshaft. I got to use the big lathe in the 1890s Hoffman Machine Shop at the Portersville Steam Showgrounds to do it, too! --- 
(the big lathe with one of my final drive sprockets, and a guy named Ed - small by locomotive standards, but big enough) 










The Mason engine has a 3/4" shaft. The McCormick thresher pulley I'm using for a flywheel, and dog clutch a friend gave me are 1-1/4". I thought about making a sleeve, but it would have needed to be about 7" long, and I was worried about the possibility of bending the crank if somebody hung a belt on it, anyway. Sooooooooo, since I had a 2 foot piece of 1-1/4" shafting "seasoning" in the shed, I decided to polish it up, then turn it down on one end to 3/4" for about 8" and be done with it. It looks kind of funny (the governor pulley is at the transition, so the shaft is skinny on one side and fat on the other), but it's totally functional. I'll probably use two pillow blocks on the flywheel end since I have them to keep as much stress off the small part as i can (overkill? nah....hehehehe) 

The other project was boring out a #40 sprocket to fit the nice riding mower differential I have (Jacobson? it's orange anyway)... it's only 40 tooth, but the one that was on it was 32 tooth, so it's at least a bit larger. I did the math, @ 250 rpm it should go about 3MPH... A little faster than I'd prefer, but I don't have a 50 tooth sprocket. 

There was no fan in the shop. I probably lost 10 pounds in sweat, so I quit after I got those done. Maybe I need to lose a little "insulation"?


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

It was just too miserable hot by 9AM to even consider going over to work today. So I assembled the differential sitting on the livingroom floor. I was careful not to make a mess but Kim still wasn't amused. What is it with women and that old bearing grease smell? Men don't (usually) complain about their stinky flowers..... 

At least I'm still allowed to sleep indoors, and I even got a couple pics to share! 
This is the twin brother of the #40-40T plate sprocket I cut yesterday as a "before" pic: 









And how my amateurish machining job turned out: 









This is business part of the pinion clutch I was given. I "milled" mating dogs on the inside end of the flywheel hub with an angle grinder, then dressed everything up with a file to reduce the stress risers. The hub casting is about 7/16" thick, and the roller is only intended to pull itself, so I'm hoping to get away with it. If it breaks I still have the mating part from the clutch in the shed. I'll be turning down the taper part to mount a 15 or 16 tooth ring sprocket. which will give me a about 2.5:1 reduction to the differential countershaft. I'd prefer at least 3:1, but simply can't afford the asking price for a new 50 tooth sprocket! 









More pix coming when I get them....


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Allen,

I have to admit that's the first time I've ever seen a lathe-hand put his Kennedy toolbox on the ways of a lathe.









BTW, that's a great looking project.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Gary, in Ed's defense, I think if there was ANYwhere else reasonably convenient TO put it, he would. When they built the building it was considered adequately large. Then somebody donated a flatbed scraper, and then another mill, and then somebody else decided it was a great place to store all the stray belting and shafting that was clutting up other buildings, and some half a dozen spare floodlights they never got around to installing. and.......... 

10 pounds of mud in a 5# sack about covers it


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## Gary Armitstead (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Mik on 29 Jun 2012 03:44 PM 
Gary, in Ed's defense, I think if there was ANYwhere else reasonably convenient TO put it, he would. When they built the building it was considered adequately large. Then somebody donated a flatbed scraper, and then another mill, and then somebody else decided it was a great place to store all the stray belting and shafting that was clutting up other buildings, and some half a dozen spare floodlights they never got around to installing. and.......... 

10 pounds of mud in a 5# sack about covers it No problem. I've worked in a few shops like this with space "limitations". Ed looks like he has been around the block a few times. He probably has a ton of tips for things you haven't even thought of yet!







I love seeing places like this. A by-gone era before all the computers and "clean rooms".


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Some new progress (Hope I ain't boring you!), even with the miserable heat of late 

This is what the new crankshaft looks like. I need to ream the bearing bushing to fit better - as my "interference fit" completely interferes with it even thinking about going together at all. 









I almost talked myself out of these stainless hotdog cart coolers 3 times. Mostly because the guy wanted $50 firm for the pair.... Kim finally had enough of my dithering and bought them for me. She says they look perfect. I tend to think she might have a point, even if they do only hold about 4 gallons each. 









We also got a real good deal on 20 feet of 6" wide canvas belting to put on the rear wheels until finances allow us to get 1/4" x 7" flat bar rolled.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Sooner or later I might get the hang of using the smaller lathe. For now it's about all I can do to get the bloody belts to stay on! (I think they need tightened, but it isn't my call) 
I needed to enlarge the bore on the crankshaft bushing. I'm sure I probably did it all "wrong", but this accomplished the job with very little trouble 









The next project on the agenda was to turn the dog clutch to accept a ring sprocket. I got lucky there were no hard spots in the old iron casting. The sprocket is a 17 tooth #40 - the smallest that would fit without needing reboring. 

















A quick mock up to double check everything shows I must not be quite as dumb as I look... It's actually gonna work!


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

One of the really nice things about "freescale" model building is you can change your mind, tear things out, even start over in a different direction, and it's still "right".... 

When I built the frame two years ago, I knew I was running the beads on the rear crossmember a little cold - unfortunately, with an AC box that also meant minimal penetration. So when a short weld broke (in it's and my defense I WAS doing some "precision adjustments" with an 8# hammer), I took it as permission to rethink the entire platform/bunker area. 

When I first envisioned this thing it was to be a true 1/3 scale traction engine. That meant rear wheels in the 25-28" range. The wheels I ended up using are 36" - making this pretty much a small boilered half scale. 

It also meant the platform was well above knee level. With not much room for 1:1 scale feet, either. 

The re-design will be a two level platform. The rear part will be about 5" lower than the front. Possibly allowing a lower canopy..... and more importantly it will also be nearly 3" wider. (or enough to turn around without twisting an ankle for most folks!) 

I started cutting stuff out on Sunday, and re-welded enough yesterday to ensure I'll remember what I had in mind..... Unfortunately, with Portersville's 50th show coming up in just 2 weeks, I doubt I'll have much in the way of time in the near future to finish anything up on it! 

I also had a large "durrrrrrr!" moment concerning the smokebox. I had been trying to decide for days whether it would be better to use a hole saw and hand drill or acetylene torch to cut the 3/4" hole in the side for the exhaust line. It suddenly dawned on me last night that it's just BOLTED to the boiler.... as in "simply UNbolt it and stick the thing in the big drill press".... 

On the plus side, even unfinished, the little roller WILL be on public display in the steam building August 2-5 for those who want a closer look.Those who've already seen it have proclaimed it "cute as a button"... How cute ARE buttons supposed to be?


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I was supposed to be helping the electrician over at the showgrounds today... He was late, and it was raining anyway, so I had some time to kill. 

I found that the spacer collars from the manure spreader axle fit inside the wheel centers. They'll hold the wheels on just fine and also give it a nice, finished look. 









I'm not a fan of welding during a thunderstorm, so I did other things. This is 5/4"x 6" deck stuff. I haven't decided whether to clear coat it or paint it grey. 

















Drilling the 7/8" hole for the exhaust line took a while... but then the smokebox is the same schedule 40 as the boiler (almost 3/8" thick) 









The piece needed for the exhaust pipe is an odd length. No choice but to custom cut and thread it. Luckily the club has a nice Ridgid pipe vice and threader. 

















All that for this. The electrician finally showed about 3 hours late, so I didn't get the elbow and nozzle inside the smokebox installed. But I got the nipple that runs through the side screwed on, so at least it shouldn't snap the pipe off if someone leans on it.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Finally, another mini-update - Today I built the front roll scraper. It may not look like a major project, but it took me almost 4 hours! This is one of those parts that has to be slightly oversized for durability's sake. 

The first step was to make the 2 actual scraper bars. Some 1/8" x 2" strap welded to a piece of 1-1/4" pipe. Getting the amperage right so the 6010 rods would neither stick, nor burn through was a bit tricky with the ancient Forney AC box I was using! 









Then the 2" channel side brackets were welded to one of the scraper bars. 









Set in place and welded to the roll bracket 









And finally the front scraper bar was welded in place and the sides were cut to length.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Today was a day to make what looked like a lot of headway just because the pieces were huge. I was looking for 3/16 sheet to make these two platform sides, but I found some 1/4" plate at a really good price. I decided to use solid pieces instead of open bracework for one very good reason - I didn't want kids getting tangled up in the driveline. Since I had good sturdy plate, I decided that the best way to mount the countershaft would be to drill the upper front corner and mount flange bearings. It took me about 2 hours to lay out and drill all the holes. One of them had to be 1-1/2" in diameter to clear the differential (so the chains line up). It was probably a good thing I had access to the machine shop at the showgrounds! 









The left side also got the 1-1/2" bore hand pump mounted before getting welded in place. 









Clamped in place and ready to weld. 









The actual top side welding took about 20 minutes. I'll need to pull the rear wheels to do the lower welds. After that I'll mount the countershaft


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Yesterday I spent a whole day working on this. Well, more like work a bit, sit and think, spend a goodly while digging around trying to find where you just set down the part you need, sit and rest, err, daydream, err, think again, then work a bit more. Part of the reason I'm on disability is I gotta "think" so much.... I'm like a young old geezer. 

A quick mock up of the hotdog cooler bunkers to get an idea of how to proceed.. 









A start on the support framework - I used up what angle stock I had along... Good thing there's a bit more in the shed. 









With the coolers temporarily set back in place it's starting to look real good 









This bit of leftover manure spreader steering axle bracket will perform a very important function... helping to keep the front roll from trying to fold on rough ground 









Since it started to thunder I decided the wisest course was to disconnect the welder. So I spent a bit painting the front roll bracket black... Unfortunately, the can of Rustoleum had frozen at some point, so it was kind of like painting with pudding. 









After the rain stopped I added this brace made from a leftover short bit from the scraper bracket. I doubted the bearing mounted in the plate is gonna move, but the engine bracket was a different story. 









And yes, I also assembled and installed the differential (often referred to as a "compensating gear in the old literature) - good thing I was planning on relocating that injector anyway... 









I ran out of light and it was starting to rain again, so that's as far as I got.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Today was sort of a half day. And I got a lot less done than I wanted to. I probably spent 3 hours plus trying to re-route the injector lines. Mixing and matching various length pipe nipples to get things to line up. Two are done, leaving just the suction line to figure out... and all the hand pump lines. 

















I made a bracket for an outboard bearing on the countershaft since I wasn't sure about 3" sticking out unsupported. 









Well, the coolers still aren't fastened down, but they are nearly ready to. I need to cut a few bits yet, but all the teeth wore off the sawzall blade I was using.I threw a quick base coat of paint on the rear end even though it isn't finished because I needed to use up the end of the grey. 









Once again I ran out of light. It'll probably be at least Friday before I get back to it again.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Biggish update! I got a lot of weird little things done, some I have pix of, some didn't come out. 
One that the pic didn't come out was the exhaust piping inside the smokebox. It was pretty much a 3 handed job with room for none. Things got really interesting when the stupid channel locks slipped, hit the trouble light and sprayed broken glass and sparks in my face... there's a REASON I always get polycarb lenses! 

If you remember the test fire from 2010, then you'll recall this boiler doesn't draw worth a hoot (it was originally designed for an undermounted, with the typical short chimney) So in order to help the boiler draft better I decided I needed to lengthen the stack.... Just how tall was the question. The piece I had to splice on was just a LITTLE BIT too long 









I cut it off the same height as the top of the governor. But it still wasn't right. (A spark arrestor will be made from this wing fryer basket I found at a flea market for 50c, more on that in a day or three) 









So I tried once again, this time I think it looks acceptable. If you've ever used little Ridgid pipe cutters to do household plumbing, here's one on steroids... It will cut up to 6" 









On to something interesting. I got this lever off the same manure spreader the wheels came from. It will make a dandy Johnson bar. 









And hooked up. The notches for forward and reverse are only about an inch apart. 









Some very light used 3" channel made a good looking countershaft shield 









Then I worked on the feedwater piping some more, but didn't take a pic 

I thought long and hard about how to do the depressed section of the platform. I really wanted to use 5/4 wolmanized like the upper platform, but also needed to make the whole thing strong enough to be used as a tie down point when the roller gets trailered. Well, I had this bit of diamond plate seasoning in the shed, so I decided to go the lazy route and just use it to make the depressed section. I may bolt wood to it later. 









The bunker supports are done. They hold my weight without moving. I need to get a couple bulkhead connectors yet, before I mount the hotdog coolers, but I'm actually pleased with how it looks so far. 









I had to quit early because I had a meeting, so that's all for this update. thanks for looking!


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

I promised to get back to the spark arrestor, so that is today's update. Guys who run the live steam in the grand scales are quite welcome to borrow my design.... 

This thing is a real high dollar deal. 50c for the wing basket, plus $3 for a weather flange. The stainless basket will probably outlast 3 or 4 flanges, but that's OK. Both will be easily replaceable. 









The axles just snapped off (some baskets don't even have them), then I cut a hole the size of the chimney internal diameter in one end and removed the internal paddles 









Speaking of those paddles, they'll make dandy G scale man gates. 









Six screw holes drilled in the weather flange will allow it to be attached firmly to the basket, yet still easily separated. 









I also bent the excess flange up around the edges of the basket to make it look a bit more 'professional" 









approximately 20 minutes work, and it was done. When I go over next I'll mount it on the stack.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I just love "repurposed" stuff! Nice!


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Weekend Update (And no, I'm still not Chevy Chase): 
The weather flange was a bit oversized, so I 'cold forged' an adaptor ring out of flat bar 









I also bent the handle for the hand pump to go through the 'window' in the side plate while I was in the blacksmith shop. 









Aaand, spark arrestor installed. I'll drill it for a couple retaining screws when I mount the bunkers. 









The final drive chains took an hour or so to get them both right. Mostly because there's no provision for a tightener. We had to run to the store for half (offset) links. I'll mount wick lubricators later to keep the chains from wearing too much. Oil is always a LOT cheaper than hard parts. 









About twelve years ago I found these military surplus cable controls at a flea market. I think I gave $10 for them. They are handsome, but useless to me as-is 









So the first order of business was to tear it apart. The frames are aluminum and won't be used, but the levers themselves are good cast with brass hardware. 









One was stripped to use as a throttle 









Installation started. This was the best solution I could think of that didn't require attaching them directly to the boiler. 









The cable plate from the levers just happened to be drilled with the proper spacing to use it on the cylinder drains. I'll probably grind it dogbone shaped just for looks before we're done. 









Meanwhile, I gave the coolers a base coat while I had grey out to paint the supports under them. Next time I'll fasten them down with sheetmetal screws. 









Next weekend is Portersville's Fall show, so whatever I get done Monday will be whatever it looks like for a while. We'll have steam cooked apple butter and steam pressed cider for sale during the show, too.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

What tricks, if any, to make sure the paint sticks to the stainless? 

greg


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

A real good scrubbing with white vinegar. The paint is an alkyd enamel designed for patios and floors... we'll see if it worked in a day or two


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, today was probably the last uninterrupted day to work on this thing until after the fall show (Tomorrow starts apple peeling for apple butter). So I got some stuff done that I had been putting off. 
The first order of business was to change out the throttle valve. Why? Because somebody "made me an offer I couldn't resist" for the butterfly valve... and it simplified the throttle reach rod geometry in the process, anyway. 

Old layout with butterfly throttle valve: throttle reach rod and pressure gauge would have tried to occupy the same space. 

















Butterfly valve (right), and the steam rated ball valve which will replace it. 









To get the handle to point in the right direction, a little cut and weld was in order. 









Now the handle, when fully closed, is just beyond parallel with the pipe rather than perpendicular to it. 









The reach rod now runs alongside the gauge with just a bit of room to spare. 









I also timed the engine (I simply hadn't reset it after I made the new crankshaft) and installed the governor belt. Every step towards completion reminds me of 3 more things I still have to do. 

One thing I'm having a bit of trouble locating is bulkhead fittings for bottom of the coolers.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

A couple weeks ago Ben brazed the sprocket to the dog clutch for me (I'm out of gas, and too broke to buy more) 









Cleaned up and ready to install 









One of those many little parts that needed made, the front roll brace is 5/8"x 1" solid bar. 









Kim had a director's meeting this evening so I went over to finish up a few things before they got misplaced. Today may well have been the last day to work on this until spring. It was 39*F in the boilerhouse according to the thermometer hanging on the wall. My fingers got so numb I didn't realize how hot a piece of metal was until I'd already burnt them. So I spent the remainder of the evening trying to work wearing welding gloves... 

First I fitted the #40 primary drive chain. I thought I did good with cold fingers, I only dropped it 3 times 









Then I ground a custom key for the crankshaft (and burnt my fingers with it... Who needs fingerprints anyway?). I still need to change the bolt in the flywheel hub for a shorter one or a setscrew. 









And finally, I started to assemble the clutch throwout before I forgot how I wanted to do it. The brackets and linkages will be built in place because of all the stuff they have to clear. 









Maybe we'll have a couple nice days in a row in December to work... Unfortunately, even if we get them, it will probably take 2 or 3 days to pull the chill out of the metal. (I don't have a torpedo heater, and little ceramic cubes don't put out enough heat)


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi Mik,

Have you been to this web site? It is for the home machinist and specializes proper use of power tools (lathes, mills, etc.) and "ride on" live steam projects. I was turned on to the site by the Hot Rod Forum.

The Home Machinist


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## DKRickman (Mar 25, 2008)

I have to say, I'm thoroughly enjoying watching this project as it progresses. not only is it interesting in its own right, to know that it's being built on a shoestring budget is even more impressive. Thanks!


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Thanks Kenneth, "shoestring" is a relative term. The costs have been stretched out over 15 years, with much of the really spendy stuff bought early on - before I ended up on disability. (If you factor in the cost of 18 months of welding school.....then it's really ouch!) 

Toddalin, I never joined that board, I don't remember why. Have you tried these? 
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php 
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/forum.php


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks. I'll check them out. My machine is due to be delivered to my home in the next 12-16 hours.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Well, winter was longer and colder than expected, and I spent much of my spare time and $$ helping a friend who was having health & marital problems, anyway. But I found a few small needed pieces in some scrap and swarf that was headed to be recycled this week. So I finally made a little progress. Starting with the mounting bracket. 








A bit further along. One man's useless junk is another's "just what I've been looking for" 








Still needs a quadrant and handle (and oiler), but is already fully functional. 








Next up? Finish the hand pump and see about side tanks.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

Did a bit more yesterday before the rains set in. Fabricated a couple braces and the handle & quadrant for the clutch. I also built the detent, but didn't get it installed. 









And a couple apron bars from a manure spreader became rear canopy supports.


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## Mik (Jan 2, 2008)

This past Tuesday, Kim had to go to a Director's meeting at the showgrounds. So while she got frustrated with a bunch of stubborn old men, I got to take my frustrations out. Some wit pointed out a couple weeks ago that "Steam rollers don't have strakes on the rear wheels..." Well, no sh-t, Sherlock! I just hadn't gotten around to removing them.

So grind the head off 80+ yo rivets, drive a screwdriver underneath and 'pop!' lots of heavy beating to drive the rivets out tho.











I also finished (except for a spring) the detent latch on the clutch, using the one from the lever I used for the throttle.










My buddy Ben brought over a pair of these to see if they could be cut down for side water tanks... I think they're a little fat, and thin so they'll rust out in a few years - but they may have to do if I don't find 12" diameter ones.


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