# A very affordable 3d printer



## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I just ran across this printer, only $366:

http://www.banggood.com/Geeetech-Al...it-Support-5-Filament-p-998030.html?utmid=205

Heated bed, supports multiple filament types, and has a 7.9 x 7.9 x 7.1 build volume. 

No 2nd print head, but I'd used it for stuff I'd paint (or cast with), so dual colors isn't important. True, it would be neat to use a second water-soluble material for supports.

Anyone see any big pitfalls to this? Or better alternatives? I couldn't, but I'm not as versed as Dave B. and others here on the printer specs. The software looks pretty good, freeware, but seems reputable enough,

http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host/


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliffy - just looked it over and can't see anything that isn't acceptable - It doesn't go into much detail about the software but it is likely to operate from some of the open source programs that generate appropriate code.

I might wait a few weeks and see if anyone goes into detail on the web or YouTube about the software. 

Interesting find!

dave

UPDATE - more info (and a better price?) here: http://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-aluminum-prusa-i3-3d-printer-kit-p-944.html 

Amazon has one, too - no comments yet http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Aluminum-filament-Printer-materials/dp/B014KAL4DW


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for hunting with me Dave. 

Indeed, a better price. But, they're quoting $95 for shipping, whereas Bangood is free. But yes, I'd save about $15, so thanks for that tip!

They also have a dual-extruder, but it's in the acrylic version (vs. aluminum, which I like). Amazing price for their simplest unit, $216!

Geetech also has a support forum (in English), that's nice,

http://www.geeetech.com/forum/

[edit]
They say you can get free filament if you "share" with 3 friends (and submit their email addresses). I have 3 older sisters, hmmm...

http://www.geeetech.com/specialpage/christmas2015/christmas_2015.html


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

This one of theirs may be a better choice.
http://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-prusa-i3-m201-3d-printer-diy-kit-p-965.html


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Not sure I want to assemble one!


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## riderdan (Jan 2, 2014)

My nephew recently bought this printer  from Amazon. I saw a few of the test prints he did and for well under $300 it's pretty impressive. An FDM machine is never going to match the output you get from stereo lithography, but then again, the cheapest SL machine are in the tens of thousands of dollars.

The print area is small and reviews are mixed. But the support appears to be handled in the U.S. and since you're buying from Amazon if you wind up with a DOA returns are simple. It's also pre-assembled, not a kit.

I may use my Christmas bonus (if any) to pick one of these up when they're back in stock.


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

I've been thinking of getting a larger one with a scanner. Unfortunately, the only scanner on the market worth anything is the NextEngine at $2,500+

http://www.nextengine.com/apps/video


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Jerry Barnes said:


> This one of theirs may be a better choice.
> http://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-prusa-i3-m201-3d-printer-diy-kit-p-965.html


Thanks Jerry, hadn't seen that. I like its bigger build volume. But I still like the idea of an all-aluminum machine (I believe that black ones are acrylic panels), and free shipping (this one needs $90 to ship).

About your assembly concerns, to quote from one of their product pages,



. said:


> To maintain the garage-built feel and the handmade charms, Geeetech I3 pro C is also a build-it-yourself kit, which provide you an unforgettable step-by-step learning experience of 3D printer.


I'm not sure I want an unforgettable learning experience... or the printer appearance having "handmade charms." Hopefully something's getting lost in the translation


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Buy one for Christmas!
Certainly it shall be an unforgettable experience!
... Merry Ho Ho!!!!


SD


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I'm sorely tempted, good buddy....

And same back at ya! Happy Hollerdays!


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## Beddhist (Dec 17, 2013)

Buyer beware: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10381/geeetech-products-warning/


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Good catch Beddhist, wow, lots of issues there. However, one of the posts mentioned Folger Tech, so I'm looking into their version of the Prusa I3.

http://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-prusa-i3-clear-frame-full-3d-printer-kit-ramps-gt2

Though that frame is acrylic, here's one based on aluminum channel:

http://folgertech.com/collections/3...ap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit

Seems to me that the quality & QA would be far better. FT is US-based, has been selling since '05, and have a weekday support line to call in on. 

Resolution is .05mm, vs Geeetech .1-.3mm. Similar build volume (8 x 8 x 7). Comes with the heated base. They also sell all the individual bits and pieces, when something breaks.

The price is nice: $270, +$10 for LCD/SD reader, +$16 for shipping (in my case). So, $296 for a US-made & backed kit. 

They have other printer kits as well, looking at those too...


[edit] One prob with FT is that they charge $99 for email support (unlimited duration). So I can't even email them to ask a couple questions. Odd.

Here's another Chinese vendor, larger build volume, and good ratings on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWOUTHE/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g328_i1_sh


Cliff


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

If you are looking for a good complete 3d printer that requires no assembly, the XYZ Printing Davinci's are a good place to start. I use it to print parts and entire locomotives and rolling stock. I am currently printing a tender for a 0-8-0 as well as a SW1500 both in 1/29th scale. This intro model is about 500 dollars on amazon and has a very similar build size. I have put in a lot of time on this printer. Their customer service is also very good.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Thanks for the tip WC. I looked into these a year ago, but forgot about them; but will look into them again. Definitely a better appearance as a developed product, vs. a collection of off-the-shelf parts.


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## Nick Jr (Jan 2, 2008)

Don't know if this is useful, but there is an article in the latest Popular mag where plastic bottles are used as the supply for the printer. It will not reduce the cost of the initial outlay, but may help in future projects. LG


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

For what it is worth, before you buy a printer make sure you know a little about 3D modeling and 3D printing materials. Anything in the neighborhood of 500 USD is not going to give you great resolution, but if all you want is a rough part to scale and are willing to put in some time cleaning the finished print up you do not worry about resolution but focus on 
1. Availability of materials 
2. Cost of materials 
3. Strength of materials 
4. Software included with the printer
5. Support
in that order. 
Materials can be costly and depending on the printer hard to find as some printers use a proprietary method of feeding the material into the printer heads while others just use spools. The spools have the advantage that you don't need to pay extra for cartridges or worry about being tied to expensive materials sold by the manufacturer because they only work with a specific cartridge. 
Not all printers come with 3D software that is user friendly and some times you need to pay extra. This is just the software that actually runs the printer and not the software you need to build the models. Some software only accepts files in the stl format. If you don't have a 3D modeling program that exports to stl do not worry there are plenty of free stuff on the internet that will help you convert. 
3D printing is still in it's infancy much like 2D printing was a couple of decades ago. Consider that no matter what you get today, it will be like a dot matrix printer in comparison to what we have now.
I predict that cannon will be the one of the first to get into the game with a multifunction 3D printer offering scanning, printing and network printing within the next 10 years. So if you can hold on for that long, just use Shapeways. Takes longer to get your product, costs more, but they are getting better and better at quality and consistency.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

All great points Richard, and helpful as a good overview of the complex nature of the "art".

Though I don't have a printer yet, and am pretty green on their care and feeding, I've been 3d modeling for many moons, and have used various printing houses (Shapeways in recent years) for a lot of 3d prints. But since Shapeways has hiked up their prices so much, I'm in need of a process to make larger prints, because I can't afford to do otherwise.

For example, a stationary steam engine model of mine that seemed expensive at $75 two years ago is now $160. So for the price of 2 or 3 of those engines, I hope to get a low-end printer that will perform adequately for at least the larger parts. And for the smaller / more detailed bits, I can always use Shapeways.

All your points are well taken though, especially on materials and support. I've been avoiding those that don't accept generic spools (which I think disqualifies the DaVinci printers, hard to tell...). Support is tougher, and that's why Folger Tech caught my eye. 

Thanks,
Cliff


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Did you ever have a steam engine printed from Shapeways?
What was the resolution for this project..... Chosen by you I assume...

If your even doing close to quality parts...and you have to do the fine finish work...you'll spend a great deal of your labor..to clean up a part before it matches that which comes from shapeways. Time.... Yours..is money also... Trying to do fine hand work on such small detailed parts will drive ya KraZy I'd think....you can only get in so close to a corner...by hand!
...

Ideas for discussion buddy...


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Last summer, I went to our local Maker Faire.
I was surprised by how many local 3D printing groups were around me.
There were 3D clubs, where you pay a monthly fee and get to use their printers and have other people to help you with your projects.
Anyone considering 3D printing might want to check around in case there are similar groups near you that you can learn from before making a purchase of equipment.
Understanding exactly what a printer is capable of doing, and therefor how best to create your 3D files is all important.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

1. Availability of materials 
2. Cost of materials 
3. Strength of materials 
4. Software included with the printer
5. Support
in that order. 

i would think the order should be different.

1. Support
2. Support
3. Support

...and then the other points.
i bought a da Vinci scanner and printer recently. but the "800..." - support phone number does not work from south america.
so i am stuck and trying to find a forum, where somebody has written about my problems.
specially, because 3D printing is a new game in town, help and interaction are the most important points.

who cares about costs, when playing with a new toy?
(specially, when the alternative is as "affordable", as shapeway is?)

to find out, what goes, and what not, is the interesting part now.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Between work and hobby prints, I've spent about $10k with Shapeways (using SLS) over the last couple years. And about $7k with Quickparts (using SLA) before that. 

My questions in this thread are in regard to an affordable 3D printer using the FDM process, and whether there was anything really wrong about that cheap one I first cited. And, as Beddhist showed, yep, there are. So now, I'm probing the alternatives, and thanks guys for all the further comments on those products.

Not buying immediately, but my short list includes Folger Tech and HICTOP. I still don't like it that I have to pay $100 to FT just to email them though.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Which models? I noticed that they both offer a Prusa i3 but one has a much bigger build platforms. 
As long as you are spending that much money on prints. (I'm at about 12 k to shapeways) Have you considered one of the higher priced models? Formlabs has a very accurate printer Form 1 with 25 -200 micron layers thickness (.025 to .2 mm). Only problem is the build platform is very small. 6.5"x just shy 5" X just shy 5" prints.
They are about 3k shipped and the form 2 is about 800 dollars more but has about 6.375"X5.75"x5.75" build. It is more expensive but it's assembled has great support and software and the finish parts are ready to paint. The only drawback is the build size and the costs, but considering what you've spent it seems neglible. Here is a link to their newest model.
http://formlabs.com/products/3d-pri...JFmPXRerEkcj99yJWSC3QfXo30I30aBpXwaAmZR8P8HAQ


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Richard, most of that was for work, but yes, I see your point. 

Thanks for that link, I've not seen that before. Looks beautiful. But I'm afraid my budget needs to stay around $500. 

The one I'm most eyeing now is the HICTOP (who the heck came up with that??), 270 x 200 x 190, $418. Good (not perfect) reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWOUTHE/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g328_i1_sh?tag=viglink12177-20

The build size, in inches, is 10.6 x 7.8. With a hypotenuse of 13.2, that should allow for some pretty long/skinny parts. 

For filament, Folger Tech has 1kg spools for $13 +s/h, seems like a good deal.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's an interesting review of 5 main contenders,

http://bestreviews.com/best-3d-printers

And a recent review by one HIC owner,
http://3dprinterreviewsite.com/hictop-prusa-i3-3d-desktop-printer-review/


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Looking forward to reading what you decide on and how it works for you.


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

Maybe a silly question... but if you only buy one reel of filament to start, what type (PLA, ABS, etc.) and what color would be the best for performing the setup and learning how to use the machine... and if there is any left, then for general use?


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

the one i bought, came with a cartridge of white ABS.
(i have read, that these included cartridges are just half full)
set-up did not cost much filament. the demo-prints (a lion and a lighthouse) look good in white. as i am planning to paint most of the prints, i just bought black and white cartridges.
that ABS plastic is hard. i broke off part of one demo print, trying to get it out of the printer.


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

in the pic one can see/imagine, that the sample is printed with a very thin wall.


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

From my experience with now almost a full year with the da-vinci, the black filament has had the best flow properties when heated as well as printing properties. I had tried white, but the layers were more prone to separation, as well as warping due to heat. I had one 13 hour print, that with the white filament that ended up looking like a taco due to warping. Changed the cartridge to black and it printed like a charm. I cannot say that this is true for all brands, just the xyz cartridges. The software that comes with the davinci system is also pretty good easy to use, although it only accepts stl files, but the stl file is still the most accepted form of file for 3d printing industry wide at this current time.


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

Richard! Drat you!

Now I won't be happy until I buy that $3500 printer... wow, the finish is great! Everything I have seen on the lower cost printers would take so much finish work as to not be worth it in my time.

Now all I need to do is find someone in San Diego that wants to share the printer, cost and ownership... 

Greg


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## Beddhist (Dec 17, 2013)

I think I have posted this link before: https://www.3dhubs.com/ where people "share" their 3d printers. I haven't used it myself yet, but I think I will give it a try soon, as I need some parts that I can't buy.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Good luck Greg, My sister laughed at me....
John


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

WCRR152 ,
what do you run your PC with?
XP, Win7, Win8? or a mac?


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Greg,
I have heard of collectives in a lot of bigger cities,,, I live in the sticks,,, that co-op printers and even provide services. You might want to look at joining one of the those, but I think the caveat is you have to attend and pay for their training courses on the machines and I heard the price varies.


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

kormsen,

I am currently running two computers for the printer, both with windows 10 installed, I had previously used windows 8 on both machines and both had worked well. 

WCRR152


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

WCRR, does your davinci have a heated bed? That might have something to do with the warping. Also, what were your materials? PLA and ABS come in black and white...

Beddhist, good point on 3DHubs. From my limited experience, it seems anyone can get a cheap 3d printer and be a 3dh provider, so it's the luck of the draw. I went through one long episode with 3DH with a local guy who had good ratings. It took a couple weeks of file back-and-forth. And the part I got back had so much support material, it couldn't be separated. It wasn't salvageable, by any means. 

However, if you know the printer hardware, I suppose you can identify someone on 3DH having, say, the Formlabs printer, and go for that (vs., say, the guy with a simple Prusa).

Kormsen, looks like they supplied you with a bad demo model that violated the min thickness rules for your machine... BTW, what kind of machine did you get?

Richard, thanks, and will do. DO you already have a PLA machine? Just curious. 

Semper, I have the same question, so I'll get a spool of PLA & ABS. In white, because I'll always paint the part (tried colored parts from Shapeways, what a fiasco; and the colored filaments seem too neon...). 

Greg, as for resolution, yeah, it would be nice to have the best. And maybe you'll find a local partner; I agree, 3DHubs is a great place to look. 

But, there are two things I'm looking forward to messing with, for post-print finishing. One is the smoothing product put out by (who else) Smooth-On: XTC-3D. I picked up a kit at a trade show, but haven't tried it out yet. 

The second thing is "wood" filament. Sounds a lot easier to sand! But has anyone here used it? And can it be sealed adequately?

Cliff


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## Semper Vaporo (Jan 2, 2008)

I'll go halvesies with anybody here... but I don't want to split the cost and usage each 50-50... I want to split it horizontally... 100-100... you buy it and I'll use it.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Cliff

PS, I've got a bad case of twitchy finger... that triple-tap on Add to Cart, Proceed to Checkout, Place Order...


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## kormsen (Oct 27, 2009)

WCRR - thanks!

Cliffy,
i just did not use a scraper, for prying it loose, but pulled on the head of the tower...
mumble: "learningcurve..."
the next one came off very fine - using a scraper.
i have the all in one from Da Vinci. and i'm still trying to find out, how to do more, than calibrate and print demo pieces.
the software insists every time i try to send a file for printing, that i configurate what printer i use.
at the moment i have installed and configurated everything for the fourth time.
next step: get an english windows, instead of a spanish one. (sometimes programs behave funny, when one has different languages working).

Semper,
with anybody?
i would pay 75%, and the electricity. you come over here, for printing.


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Cliffy buddy....better give your burning holes in your pockets to your wife for awhile....seems best approach...till yea gits your bearings buddy.....geez. Christmas was last week.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Dirk, my mom always used that flaming pocket line....


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Just got off the phone with the receptionist at Folger Tech, seems everyone else had gone for the day. Anyway, she gave me the secret email address of: [email protected] to vioce my questions. Apparently it was an oversight on their contacts page? She's new, and wasn't sure, but agreed that it was odd their wasn't any sales email address. So thar ya go. 

However, for your emails to be forwarded to the actual technical people, it DOES cost another $99. So add that cost to their (very inexpensive) printers. Smaller build volume than the HICTEC I linked on earlier a couple times. But, she confirmed that the kits are all put together in the US, and that it's a US-based company. They sell the individual parts online, which is a plus. 

Cliff


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

Hahaha hahaha. LOL. Mom's know best...

....just saying buddy...take a breath here....

I mean...

I get it.... I just bought 3 more locos... Hi...my name is Dirk...I'm a Train addict...Hi Dirk...


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## SD90WLMT (Feb 16, 2010)

I like the $3,500.00 Laser unit...

Who's in?????...but...it has to be at my place...I need to smell the burnt n melted plastic..!


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## Greg Elmassian (Jan 3, 2008)

it does not melt, that is a uv cured resin printer.


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

SD90WLMT said:


> I like the $3,500.00 Laser unit...
> 
> Who's in?????...but...it has to be at my place...I need to smell the burnt n melted plastic..!



Hmmm I've got some California Water Bonds somewhere.... it's finding glassine window envelopes that is the tricky part! and where did I put them?


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

There is a cheaper laser sla machine from Da Vinci also, I think it is around a thousand, havent heard many reviews on it. So far I will stick with my ABS Printer for 500 with the heated bed. If I keep in 3D printing for a couple more years my next printer will be either sla or sls, but at this point the level of detail is just not worth the upgrade in cost at this point.


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## Michael Glavin (Jan 2, 2009)

The Form-2 3D printer Dirk alludes uses a focused UV projector with mirrors commonly referred to as a spatial coherent laser and or ultraviolet laser. 3D Systems pioneered stereo lithography and UV resin cured technology many years ago. The dental lab market used the early machines with great fervor. 

FWIW: there is GRAND difference in resolution as compared to FDM printers. As compared to FDM machines with multiple moving axis, only the work platform or Z axis moves up or down when printing. X and Y axis is executed by the projected/focused UV curing light. A layer of polymer (resin) is drawn over the work platform and screeded off, the UV light projects a pattern onto the "layer' of polymer and cures same rapidly one layer at a time. 

I own a 3D System 3D Printer together with an ancillary post system curing oven. Its about nine years old now, I bought it used and the results are exemplary compared to every FDM print I have seen to date.

Michael


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Here's another desktop SLA printer, from the company that makes the daVinci printers, for about $1,300:

http://www.amazon.com/XYZprinting-N...F8&qid=1451567758&sr=1-33&keywords=3d+printer

Build volume is on the small side, but it would be great for small detail parts.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

After quite a bit of comparisons, I decided to get the HIC printer, via Amazon. I ordered on Saturday, and I just received it (on Monday).

Here's a couple of pics of what's in the box.



















Some parts are 3d printed, but none were broken, and seemed pretty sturdy. There are cast rails & fittings, stamped sheet metal brackets, machined bits, laser-cut bits, and lots of off-the-shelf bits. And a big bag of fasteners.

Haven't seen instructions yet, but I haven't pulled everything out. I'd heard that it takes a couple days at least to figure out how the thing goes together. I'm hoping to get some further on line documentation, or maybe you-tube help. 

I need to complete a model project before diving further into this, but I'll post more when I do.

Cliff


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## dbodnar (Jan 2, 2008)

Cliff - you have quite an adventure ahead of you --- Enjoy and keep us posted.
dave


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## toddalin (Jan 4, 2008)

Well if you can't get it to work, you can make one he-- of a string trimmer to take care of your weeds. Maybe a few.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RID=9AHHX33MYQ1B87950V63&ref_=pd_lutyp_im_1_8
Found this on amazon. The specs are comparable to the Form 1 but the cost is half.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

I saw that Richard, pretty cool. Maybe next year!
Thanks Dave and, um, yeah thanks Todd!


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## fyrekop (Sep 20, 2011)

Has anyone used a 3D printer to make replacements parts for an engine? Lead truck on my A/C C-19 broke right where the connecting shaft meets the wheel support. Just wondering


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

I am currently finishing up two completely printed G scale locos. I would see no reason that you couldn't print a lead truck, I have completely printed two frames for two tenders as well as a frame for a diesel loco also. As long as you include enough supports in the fill of the material when you print, it would be fine. The only thing I have noticed while printing is that is that the material is not as strong in thinner thickness as cast or injection molded plastic, if you have thin parts in the original you may have to redesign that section to have a thicker cross section. 

WCRR152


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Good info, WCRR. What materials did you use, and how did you smooth them out? Do you already have a thread on your build(s)?


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Well.... Have you printed out your new and improved printer yet?
John


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Everything on this engine is printed including the engineer. That means drivers, cab, everything even the decals.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

John, it's gonna be awhile, I need to get through another project (a flanger build) first. But at least the printer decision is in the bag, and the kit is paid for.

Richard, that pic didn't come thru from what I see. Can you re-post that?


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

No I don't have a thread, yet I should get one going. All of my material is currently printed in ABS, I only use a file/ and or dremel for smoothing, also some of the paints I have used have worked well to hide some of the layering. I know that there are some chemicals that would be effective, but have not ventured into that aspect mainly due to the fact that how these projects were the details are so small I was afraid the chemicals would erase the details as well as the ridges.


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Understood WC. I'm glad you're getting the finish you need by filing and dremeling.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Not sure why that didn't work before.


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## WCRR152 (Dec 26, 2015)

That's really nice, what are you using as a drive train? 

WCRR152


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## CliffyJ (Apr 29, 2009)

Gorgeous Richard, and looks like she's almost done!


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

The Library where I 3D print has three Makrbot 2's and a Makrbot 5. They are too expensive for me to buy one ($2100 or so for the M2, about $2800 for the M5). They print pretty nicely with their proprietary OS. I've done replacement train and building parts, some industrial lampshades for LEDs, replacement signs, arches retaining walls, and two railroad buildings: a small station and a trainman's shanty. Knew nothing last April. Learned Tinkercad. Now a volunteer at the Library 3D lab.


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

Dick, those types of coops are opening up all over California. Nice to see you belong to one. Are there any dues required or service fees on the machines. 
WCRR152, I'm going to put a motor in either the tender or one of the passenger cars so that I can keep all the detail prototypical on this 3D model. So it will look like it is pushing or pulling some cars, but it will just be along for the ride.


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## David293 (Feb 19, 2021)

I am really interested in 3d-printing but I don't know which to buy - this one seems to be cheap. What do you think about this model https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086YWKRDJ/?tag=craftyhg-20?


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## Rickv100_de (Jan 11, 2021)

David293 said:


> I am really interested in 3d-printing but I don't know which to buy - this one seems to be cheap. What do you think about this model https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086YWKRDJ/?tag=craftyhg-20?


David, 

What are you looking to print? I am looking to get a filament printer and one thing I nearly missed was comparing the build volume to the type of item you want to print. While there are workarounds in gluing up prints for strength I would prefer to print one piece parts. 

Right now I am leaning towards an Creality Ender 3 Max.

Rick


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

David293 said:


> I am really interested in 3d-printing but I don't know which to buy - this one seems to be cheap. What do you think about this model https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086YWKRDJ/?tag=craftyhg-20?


That thread was last used 5 years ago. However, you are probably in luck as Cliffy still posts (mostly on Largescalecentral.com)


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

I also wonder if David293 is a real person, as only one post and the link doesn't seem to take me to a specific 3D printer!
Correct me if I am wrong David293.
Cheers,
David


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## David293 (Feb 19, 2021)

David Leech said:


> I also wonder if David293 is a real person, as only one post and the link doesn't seem to take me to a specific 3D printer!
> Correct me if I am wrong David293.
> Cheers,
> David


I just haven't managed to find the right thread to ask it. I am more than real


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Oh, good.
Welcome to MLS then David293.
Sorry if I doubted your existence!
The problem, if it is one, with 3D printing these days is that the methods, systems, and choice of printers is ever changing.
As Rick said, decide how you want to use the printer to determine its size, and then what type of printing technology you like to look of and do lots of research.
I started with, and still stay with, filament printing because that's what I can understand and has allowed me to modify my printer to print the size that I need.
Good luck in your quest.
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Ironton (Jan 2, 2008)

The link took me straight to this printer:

*SainSmart Kumitsu KL9 Resin 3D Printer UV LCD Printer, 8.9-inch 2K LCD, 3.5-inch HD Color Touch Screen, 120mm x 192mm x 250mm Large Build Volume *

Just for information.


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

Ironton said:


> The link took me straight to this printer:
> 
> *SainSmart Kumitsu KL9 Resin 3D Printer UV LCD Printer, 8.9-inch 2K LCD, 3.5-inch HD Color Touch Screen, 120mm x 192mm x 250mm Large Build Volume *
> 
> Just for information.


With a resin printer you also need a washout/hardening unit so add that to the price. Personally I'm waiting through the next couple of generations for this style. Right now the filament printers seem to be maturing faster. The modular style makes for easier incremental upgrades. I'm hoping the interface software improves to being able to change/upgrade the source code without using a Raspberry Pi.


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## Pete Thornton (Jan 2, 2008)

Dick Friedman said:


> The Library where I 3D print has three Makrbot 2's and a Makrbot 5. They are too expensive for me to buy


As Dick says, your local Library may have a machine or two. Why not go and see them, ask around, and you will probably get some more opinions. There are also 'clubs', if that's the right word, that provide printing for you.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

Ironton said:


> The link took me straight to this printer:
> 
> *SainSmart Kumitsu KL9 Resin 3D Printer UV LCD Printer, 8.9-inch 2K LCD, 3.5-inch HD Color Touch Screen, 120mm x 192mm x 250mm Large Build Volume *
> 
> Just for information.


For me the link goes to Amazon Canada, and shows pages of 3D resin and stuff, but no such printer.
Maybe not available in Canada.
It's sometimes very confusing with Amazon US and CA being the same, BUT different.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## David293 (Feb 19, 2021)

Are these websites reliable sources for the choice? The Best 3D Printers for 2021 , Best 3D printers for 2021 , 8 Best 3D Printers Under 2000 – Reviewed and Rated (Feb. 2021)


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## Exador (Jan 24, 2020)

I can recommend the printer I use. It’s an Ender 3 pro. It prints 220mm x 220mm x 250mm. Prints PLA right out of the box. For ABS I got a glass bed from my local glass company. I also built an enclosure. Simple PVC pipe. I did upgrade the main board to a quiet one. Better drivers also. I routinely do 40hr prints. It’s modular and can take most replacement parts. So $199 for the printer and $35 for the board. 2 glass beds were $15. You can actually use a cardboard box for the enclosure. It’s just to keep the heat in and drafts out. I make my own bed adhesive by dissolving 200mm of ASB in 3oz of acetone. Paint on 2 coats while the glass is heated. It’s been a real workhorse for me.


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## David Leech (Dec 9, 2008)

David293 said:


> Are these websites reliable sources for the choice? The Best 3D Printers for 2021 , Best 3D printers for 2021 , 8 Best 3D Printers Under 2000 – Reviewed and Rated (Feb. 2021)


You never know for sure!
Just do a lot of cross checking between sites, and the youtube people who test the printers.
Also, WHAT is available where you live.
Are there any 3D shops where you can see a printer in action to get a good idea if it is for you.
Or maybe there is a 3D group close by that you can join.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada


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## Dick Friedman (Aug 19, 2008)

I also have an XYZ Jr. I've had it for about four years and it has been very reliable. I have put it away because now I can't find a replacement extruder. I bought a Flashforge to replace it. The Flashforge Adventure 3 is also self-contained and ready to use out of the box. DO NOT upgrade to the latest firmware. In a word, it is worthless. Only drawback I've found is that the documentation is poor, and if your designs are .stl files, it won't print them. Their firmware slices in gcode, which the printer does understand. This instant I'm printing a crate about 40mm on a side. It seems to be working OK. Time will tell!


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## rkapuaala (Jan 3, 2008)

I've had my Dup 6 knock off FLA printer for a few years now. Last year I bought a resin printer specifically because I wanted to print models at the same level of detail as Shapeways. It rand great for a while, but now it is on my work bench waiting for parts.








Usually the lcd screens or projectors go out before the motherboard. In this case it was the motherboard. Rather than just replace the motherboard, then eventually the LCD screen and the UV lamp, I decided to upgrade to the Photon Mono using a kit from Chitusystems. It wasn't that much more expensive than a new motherboard and I figure if I'm tearing something down to fix it, I may as well improve it. The Photon Mono prints twice as fast as the Photon. It will be nice to see the stuff that was taking me 13 hours to print, only take 6 or 7 hours to print.


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