# Falling in love again... with my K-27!



## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

My Accucraft K-27 has been the pride and joy of my (admittedly small) steam fleet ever since she arrived off the boat from China 4 years ago. However, although she has always been a looker, and for the most part a good smooth runner, there has always been something missing performance-wise. For starters, she has always been on the slippery side. I've been able to overlook that because I do all my running at steamups and shows, so it has simply been an excuse for me not to bring all of my 1:20.3 rolling stock along. Since the AMS coaches arrived, my travelling consist has simply been a two-car passenger train, sometimes accompanied by an AMS reefer for a bit of variety. Anything more than that and I'd be spinning the drivers trying to get the train started. But then, if I bring my Aristo Mikado and her 1:32 consist along, there isn't room for much more than that in the car anyway! Then there has been the problem of an increasingly finicky burner. No matter which jet was on which side, it was always the same burner, "port" side (the one with the superheater tube) that would go out. Getting her up to working pressure seemed to take forever, and often involved re-lighting the dead burner two or three times while firing up, and several more times to keep the pressure up during a run. It seemed to do better when a certain jet was on a certain side, with the gas hose coiled about 1 1/2 turns, but even then it would take a couple of re-lights to find the right combination. None of these issues are what I would call showstoppers though, and seeing that lovely engine under steam always made up for those minor annoyances, more or less.


This year, I got a little lazy and decided I would only bring one engine and consist (well, one of mine, plus my girlfriend's Mimi and her train) to each show or steamup. Loading and unloading the car is a lot less hassle that way. My Aristo Mikado was sidelined after a couple of burner-trouble-plagued outings early in the year, and the K-27 became my primary workhorse for the summer. Over the course of the year, I made a few minor modifications that have really brought out the best in my K-27, I have re-discovered what a truly great engine she really is.


First of all, I added a Bark Box. I was intrigued by the video clips I had seen (and heard) of these things in action, but was concerned about what it would do to my lovely steam plumes. I had cut off the crimp in the exhaust tube, and tapered the end slightly for a nozzle effect, so the engine would throw a nice high, purposeful-looking steam plume when the weather conditions were right (cool and/or damp, which they often are here in New England), so I figured the Bark Box would be a trade-off betwen plume and chuff. One of the other local guys got one though, and he said he hadn't noticed a difference in the plume, so I decided to go ahead and install one in my engine too. The first run with the Bark Box took place at the Milford, New Hampshire train show in March, where we run indoors. That meant lots of ambient noise and poor plume conditions, perhaps not the ideal place to compare the "before and after" with the Bark Box, but I thought she sounded good. That was also running on level track with a 3-car mixed train, about the maximum capacity of my slippery K. I was soon to discover that the best was yet to come.


The next modification I made was to try to put more weight on the drivers by cutting off one turn of the springs on the pilot and trailing trucks. I discovered that while it made a difference on the pilot truck, it made little or no difference on the trailing truck, so I cut off another turn of the spring. Still no difference. Then it hit me, the truck was bottoming out on the rollers of the lateral motion device. The prototype K-27's had lateral motion on the trailing wheels rather than a true swinging truck, and this is represented on the model, although the truck actually swings. The rollers are attached to the frame and were transferring the weight directly to the rear wheels, so the spring was having no effect whatsoever. When I first got the engine, I had taken out the middle spring over each driver (there were three on each driver) to reduce the stiffness of the springing and put more weight on the center drivers. I decided to put the center springs back over the rear pair of drivers, which lifted the rear of the engine slightly and put some space between the rear truck and the rollers, which put significantly more of the engine's weight onto the drivers. Now she will pull just about everything I can put behind her. After that little modification, the next outing for the K-27 was Dave Barker's steamup in June. With every piece of 1:20.3 rolling stock I own (granted, that's only seven cars) coupled up behind the tender, she marched right up a 1% grade, and sounded incredible. The combination of the extra pulling power and the loud, deep chuffs has really added a new dimension to my enjoyment of the engine. I installed R/C a few years ago, so for me there's really nothing better than to hear her barking her way up a grade with a heavy train coupled up behind, then easing off the throttle as she crests the summit and letting her drift quietly down the other side. Now that's live steam railroading at its best!


One unexpected benefit of the Bark Box was that my troublesome burner started to behave, at least for the next few outings. The effect was only temporary though. After a while the finicky burner syndrome re-emerged, only now it was the "starboard" side burner that didn't want to stay lit. The burners had also become louder over the years. When I first got the engine, I was amazed at how quiet they were compared to some of the first-run K's I had either seen firsthand or read about here, but they had gradually developed a moan that was on its way to becoming a wail. I decided it was time to give the mesh thing a try, and installed a "tent" of #40 niichrome mesh over each of the burners. Now they're nice and quiet, and more importantly, they stay lit. It used to be that I would light the engine, then oil 'round and unpack and set up my train with time to spare while she was warming up. Now the engine is ready before I am!


While none of this is really anything new, I just thought I'd share my experiences here, just to show how a few minor tweaks can make all the difference with an underperforming engine. And to show just why I "fell in love again" with my K-27, here's a video compilation that pretty much says it all...


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice you got it going. Shows how you have to be wiling to tinker with them to make them work. If you are not into that you should stay out of live steam.


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## Steve Stockham (Jan 2, 2008)

Even the 1:1 Mudhens had to have some "tinkering" and some "special" attention in order to make them perform to their best! There was a story about firing one of the K-27's. They were having trouble getting a good draft and they were trying everything. Finally, they just dumped a bunch of coal in the firebox haphazardly and she roared to life! Go figure.


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## mack505 (Jan 2, 2008)

Richard,

Where did you get the nichrome mesh? I can think of one or two of my engines which could use it, and I wonder if it might help with my GS4 burner problems from last week.


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By mack505 on 22 Nov 2009 07:34 PM 
Richard,

Where did you get the nichrome mesh? I can think of one or two of my engines which could use it, and I wonder if it might help with my GS4 burner problems from last week.



I ordered a 6" square piece from McMaster-Carr, along with some #80 stainless steel mesh in case the #40 nichrome wasn't fine enough. I have more than I'm likely to need for the forseeable future (it doesn't take much to cover a burner), so I'd be happy to let you use some of mine.


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By rwjenkins on 22 Nov 2009 07:48 PM 
Posted By mack505 on 22 Nov 2009 07:34 PM 
Richard,

Where did you get the nichrome mesh? I can think of one or two of my engines which could use it, and I wonder if it might help with my GS4 burner problems from last week.



I ordered a 6" square piece from McMaster-Carr, along with some #80 stainless steel mesh in case the #40 nichrome wasn't fine enough. I have more than I'm likely to need for the forseeable future (it doesn't take much to cover a burner), so I'd be happy to let you use some of mine. 
I have a couple of sets of pre-formed mesh that our good friend Gordon Watson [Argyle Locomotive works, OZ] sent me for my Garratt - the burners are the same as the K-27. They too are for free to anybody who cares to ax me for one or two.

But although you seem to imply that the mesh goes outside the burners, on MY AccuCraft NG/G16 loco the mesh goes* i**nside*. The mesh is rolled up around a pencil, tied with light sewing thread, and pushed inside the burners. The thread disappears on the first light-up.

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## mack505 (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By tacfoley on 23 Nov 2009 03:49 AM 
But although you seem to imply that the mesh goes outside the burners, on MY AccuCraft NG/G16 loco the mesh goes* i**nside*. The mesh is rolled up around a pencil, tied with light sewing thread, and pushed inside the burners. The thread disappears on the first light-up.

tac
www.ovgrs.org 







Inside? I like that idea. I assume it works well or you wouldn't mention it.


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## jlinde (Jan 2, 2008)

Great videos, Richard. You've inspired to leave work early and run my F5 in the mist . . .


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## Chris Scott (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By tacfoley on 23 Nov 2009 03:49 AM 

I have a couple of sets of pre-formed mesh that our good friend Gordon Watson [Argyle Locomotive works, OZ] sent me for my Garratt - the burners are the same as the K-27. They too are for free to anybody who cares to ax me for one or two.

But although you seem to imply that the mesh goes outside the burners, on MY AccuCraft NG/G16 loco the mesh goes_ i__nside_. The mesh is rolled up around a pencil, tied with light sewing thread, and pushed inside the burners. The thread disappears on the first light-up.

tac
www.ovgrs.org 




Gordon's theory is put it inside, other great minds say outside. Like a lot of other things in life... Put it where where it feels good and makes you happy.


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## D&RGW 461 (Jun 4, 2009)

Richard, glad to hear you worked out your burner and slipping problems, It sounds like the same problems I had with my K-27 when it was new. Once I corrected those problems she pulled like a champ. My green D&RGW #461 Was an early production model, According to the tag under the hatch it was #6 of 100. But I heard they made more than that ??? By the way, I am glad to hear that you like your BARK BOX. I have the prototype in my K-27 and I absoulutely LOVE IT !!! Thanks for the good word. Chris Sortina


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Mine was #148 out of 150 (that's how I picked my "Steamaholics Anonymous" number!)


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## tacfoley (Jan 3, 2008)

Posted By Chris Scott on 25 Nov 2009 11:04 AM 
Posted By tacfoley on 23 Nov 2009 03:49 AM 

I have a couple of sets of pre-formed mesh that our good friend Gordon Watson [Argyle Locomotive works, OZ] sent me for my Garratt - the burners are the same as the K-27. They too are for free to anybody who cares to ax me for one or two.

But although you seem to imply that the mesh goes outside the burners, on MY AccuCraft NG/G16 loco the mesh goes_ i__nside_. The mesh is rolled up around a pencil, tied with light sewing thread, and pushed inside the burners. The thread disappears on the first light-up.

tac
www.ovgrs.org 




Gordon's theory is put it inside, other great minds say outside. Like a lot of other things in life... Put it where where it feels good and makes you happy.










Putting the mesh inside means that you don't have to devise a way of holding it around the burner and accidentally removing it whenever you take the burners out. Seems to work for me and all the other similarly-converted AccuCraft burners I know.

Tell us what you did with yours?

tac
www.ovgrs.org


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

On mine the mesh is outside the burner, spaced slightly off the burner body over the slots at the bottom. It's tied on with strands of nichrome wire pulled from the mesh, which are passed through the mesh at the sides so that they're inside the mesh at the bottom, outside at the top, and are wrapped tightly around the burner body. This helps to maintain the spacing of the mesh over the burner slots. It also helps to bend the mesh to shape before putting it on the burner, rather than simply wrapping a flat piece around the burner and trying to tie it down.


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## Treeman (Jan 6, 2008)

Your layout looks very realistic, good job.


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## D&RGW 461 (Jun 4, 2009)

Richard, Will you be going to DIAMONDHEAD ??? Maybe we can arrange a K-27 lash-up and pull the snack bar wall down to make room for another steam track !!!


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## rwjenkins (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Treeman on 26 Nov 2009 08:39 AM 
Your layout looks very realistic, good job. 
I can't claim credit for any of the layouts shown in the video clip, those scenes were shot at three different steamups around New England this year. Actually, I haven't even built a layout of my own yet! Posted By D&RGW 461 on 26 Nov 2009 05:21 PM 
Richard, Will you be going to DIAMONDHEAD ??? Maybe we can arrange a K-27 lash-up and pull the snack bar wall down to make room for another steam track !!!









Not sure yet, I keep telling myself I'm going to get down there one of these years, guess I should start looking into flights and figure out if 2010 is going to be the year!


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## dwhbrewster (Mar 30, 2009)

I enjoyed your article and I really enjoyed watching your K-27. I Hope you can make it to the Cape Cod April 24th for my Steam-Up. I should have my green K-36 by then. 

Doug


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## trainmax (Feb 16, 2008)

Now there you go I would love to hear two K27 with Bark Boxs in them.

You may not want to run at night mite wake up some folks.


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## D&RGW 461 (Jun 4, 2009)

Richard, Anything less would be uncivilized. Just ask Welytek about it !!!







Besides, sleep and DIAMONDHEAD does not mix. Hail to the night shift. Chris Sortina


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