# new to model trains



## Zacch (May 8, 2011)

Hi all Iam new to the sight and new to modleing trains or anything for that matter. I did build boats and cars from kits when I was a kid. I have always been interested in trains. When I was a teenager my neighbor had a garden railroad that ran around his flower beds and into his livingroom. I thought that was so neat. Now I have my own yard and am starting flower beds and such. My question is what scale should I use. I want to use the G scale which after research is an array of sizes. So I thought 1/2" to 1' would be the best but now have read that it is not as popular. My trainis going to be modeled in the time period of the late 1800's to the early 1900's. I want a logging opperation with a town. So what scale lends me more options? I plan to scratch build houses, building, train stock and maybe a loco. I am open to any input.


Thanks
Rick


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

"G Scale" refers to the track. The track commonly sold for outdoor garden railways is 45 mm (1.772 inches) wide. 

Now you can imagine that 45 mm equals standard rail gage of 4 feet 8.5 inches. In that case, your trains should be in 1:32 or maybe in 1:29. which is too big but very common.

Or you could imagine that 45mm is representing narrow gage rail, like you might find in a logging line or a mountain railroad. In that case, depending on what you are imagining, it might be a three foot line, in which case your scale would be 1:20.

1:24 is in between and not as common, but still used. There are lots of structures in 1:24, and lots of figures, and significant amounts of US style rolling stock. 

1:20 stuff is physically bigger, even though in real life, 3 foot rail equipment was smaller than standard gage. 

If what you want is a US style, three foot gage logging line, Bachmann makes a lot of affordable 1:20, and Accucraft makes a good bit of more expensive 1:20. There's lots of figures and structures in 1:20

You could imagine your 45 mm track is a two foot gage line, in which case you would be modeling in 7/8 scale--you'd pretty much have to make it all yourself. 



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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

If you are going with logging in the late 1800 early 1900's then go with 1:20 scale to be true narrow guage where the scale is the correct size for the G scale track. I also have a logging RR for that time period but I chose 1:22-1:24 scale for a few reasons. Price of the rolling stock is a lot cheaper, you can get more figures ect... in the 1:22-1:24 scales plus this scale worked best for my smaller RR. I think if I went 1:20 the structures and trains would have made my RR look a lot smaller. Check out my Blog to give you an idea and some of my past posts. 
http://kittatinnymountain.blogspot.com/


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## SE18 (Feb 21, 2008)

If you are really into scratchbuilding and want some big trains on your gauge 1 track (45mm), then you definitely want 7/8 scale, representing 2' 

visit: http://www.7-8ths.info/index.php?action=forum for inquiries into this scale. 

Dave V


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Rick; 

If you are still interested in pursuing 1:24 for your equipment, the AristoCraft Delton Classics line and the Hartland Locomotive Works (HLW) products are in that scale. HLW equipment is fairly course scale, but their locomotives are strong runners and pullers - and they fit your time frame. The Aristo/Delton C16 2-8-0 is also within the same time frame and performs well too. This limits your choices for equipment, but you can modify existing cars (kitbash) or build your own (scratch build) to get extra stock. 

I built the tool and derrick car shown below in 1:24 a little over 24 years ago. There are lots more parts available now. Kitbashing and scratch building can keep your interest in the hobby going during those months when the weather forces the garden railroad to be dormant.










Best wishes,
David Meashey


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## Jerry Barnes (Jan 2, 2008)

Be sure to get code 250 track, not the oversize rail that Aristo/USA/LGB has. Trains look a LOT better on the smaller rail. SVRR has it, as does Micro Enginering and Llagas Creek. Get samples and compare how your train looks sitting on each size, once you see that, code 250 is pretty much a no brainer pick. They all have switches that are real good also. You can get the slide on plastic ties that are narrow gauge spaing, or mainline. Llagas creek ties are hard to slide on, so best to buy it with the ties already on.


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## East Broad Top (Dec 29, 2007)

What scale you use depends solely on how realistic you want your railroad to be. If you're motivated by making sure everything's 100% accurate in terms of scale, then for a turn-of-the-century logging line, I'd probably go with 1:20.3, since that's the scale the "typical" logging locomotives (Shay, Climax, Heisler) most logging fans gravitate towards are built to. Fortunately, most logging lines didn't run near major towns, so the "slight" lack of 100% accurately scaled buildings won't be too much of a disadvantage. Having said that, not all logging lines ran geared locos, nor were they all (by any stretch) narrow gauge. Just flipping through the pages of a book on logging railroads in central PA, I saw 2-6-0s, 4-6-0s, 2-8-0s, even small 0-4-0s both standard and narrow gauge pushing and pulling loads of logs. So, if you're looking for turn-of-the-century rod locos, then you've broadened your palette a bit. The Aristocraft or Hartland Loco Works locos mentioned above will work nicely, as will some of LGB's offerings (especially their mogul). Those are ostensibly 1:24 or 1:22, and has also been said, opens the door for using some less expensive rolling stock. (Many logging lines just used ordinary flat cars for their trains, and those are available in pretty much every scale.) 

My advice, find something you want to see running in the garden and go from there. It doesn't matter how accurate a model is or isn't; if it's not something you enjoy watching run around the yard, you're wasting your money. The reality is that I've seen just as many very well-detailed railroads in the oft described as "inaccurate" 1:24 or 1:22.5 scales (or 1:29 for standard gauge) as I have 1:20 or 1:32. Arguably more, when you get right down to it. It's far more about overall consistency than it is what the track gauge scales out to. 

Later, 

K


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## Totalwrecker (Feb 26, 2009)

Welcome aboard, 
I stumbled into 1:24 and I don't really regret it. It's a good thing I never wanted a huge empire! I'm content with a couple of locos and passenger and freight trains. 
I like the ease of mental computations of this scale. Like you I figure I can build what else I want. 

There are some who love to point out the innaccurarcy of my track gauge, but then I wonder how many of them have On30 roots? I was an On3 snob! 
But now that I'm older and wiser (The older I get the less I know) I've realised that 'G $cale' is full of compromises. Big dreams in small places... yet the main purpose is to have fun! 
I've decided to create the illusion of 'fine scale' with my toy trains. I don't 'count rivets' (rivet counter -slang for a person too willing to criticise based on accuracy), but I do want to see a plausible number where necessary. 
A lot depends on your space, the wider turns you can fit in comfortably the larger equipment looks just as good. Not necessarily 'correct' as our toys run on tighter diameter curves compared to the prototype. A compromise to run in gardens. 
A major consideration is your wallet and how thin you want to make it. Mine wasn't fat for toys to begin with.... pick up a copy of Garden Raiways magazine (can order through http://grw.trains.com/) and look through their advertisements to get an idea of what to expect. 
Then you might want to consider the type of train control you want as this can help you chose an appropriate type of rail. Rather than to try to steer you, I'll suggest you read old forum posts, they are full of opinions.... 

John


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## Dave Meashey (Jan 2, 2008)

Rick;

Forgot to mention that the HLW "Big John" is loosly based on the Dunkirk geared locomotive, so there is one geared locomotive available in 1:24. I love mine, as it can pull anything I care to hang behind it.










Best,
David Meashey


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## tj-lee (Jan 2, 2008)

Rick, 

Welcome, you are certainly in the right place! I'll go along with the 1:20 contingent. I'm a fan of the Bachmann Climax and Shay for logging and mining. I've some pics and a how-to on doing removable loads with Bachmann side-dump ore cars on my site. 

best, 
TJ


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## Zacch (May 8, 2011)

What should come first the buildings or the road beds an track?


thanks Ric


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Zacch on 10 May 2011 06:39 PM 


What should come first the buildings or the road beds an track?


thanks Ric



Do the road beds and track first. If you do buildings first they will get in the way. If you plan on putting a mountain in do that first. When doing roadbed there are many ways to do it and alot depends on where you live. I just used crusher fines as balast. Dig a 4-6 inch trench, fill with crusher fines also called stone dust. Pack down real good. Then lay the track down and finish off with more crusher finesMake sure you level the track as well. 
Some other ways is the ladder method but im sure others will explain that.


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## Zacch (May 8, 2011)

I am going to build a model that is inspired by the Redwall books. What kinds of items would you include?

Thanks


Rick


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## snowshoe (Jan 2, 2008)

Posted By Zacch on 13 May 2011 03:55 AM 
I am going to build a model that is inspired by the Redwall books. What kinds of items would you include? 

Thanks


Rick
Had to look up the redwall books never heard of them but from what I read in wiki it is fiction so you can build whats called a whimsical RR based off the books. As far as what to use depends on what the books are about. Creat year scenes based off of scenes from the book. If there are trains mentioned in the book build it off that. The books are based from scenes in scottland and there is mention of dark forest with moss ect.... Also sounds like the time period is going back to like mid evil times. Look up pictures from scottland to get ideas for a garden. Other then that it is up to you on what to include
and sound like you will have to build structures from scratch or take current buildings and scratch build them. Same goes for the trains.


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## lownote (Jan 3, 2008)

@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...ad.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css); I read all the RedWall books to my son when he was little. Loved them. 

If I were to do that I'd probably make it in 7/8th scale, like a homemade, narrow gage mining line--something like this, the "daisy Beach RR (http://home.cogeco.ca/~daisybeach/ ) 

Alternatively, I'd make the RR in 1:20 scale--because the painted Schleich animal figures you find in toy stores would give you just about every Redwall animal, and they're in 1:20. I'd maybe go with small 1:20 scale british outline locos like the new Bachmann "lyn." 

At the same time, there are a lot of figures available in 1:24, "dollhouse' scale. If you went with 1:24, LGB stuff would work reasonably well. 

So that'd be my suggestion--I'd probably try 1:20, and use schliech figures for the animals. I'd use a loco like the BAchmann Lyn, and I'd probably make a bunch of cars out of the "shortie" kits that Hartland Locomotive Works sells. You'd ned a ruined church, and an abbey, a forest, a volcano...I'd use that great Daisy Beach RR as my example. 

Sounds like a fun idea! 

There was someone here, Dave Meashey, who made a RR based on the Lord of the Rings--do a google search for "mylargescale" and Gondor


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